Rieter Special Print Recycling 3379 v1n en 02 PDF

Textile Technology
Harald Schwippl
Rieter Machine Works Ltd.
Winterthur, Switzerland December 2020
The Increasing Importance of Recycling

in the Staple-Fiber Spinning Process
Part 1
Rieter . The Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Staple-Fiber Spinning Process
Contents
1. Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Textile Sector 4
2. Standards and Guidelines on the Market 5
3. Fiber Quality of Recycled Raw Material That Has Been Broken Down Mechanically 6
3.1. Degree of Fabric Opening 6
3.2. Efficiency of Fiber Opening from the Tearing Process 7
3.3. Fiber Length Characteristics 9
3.4. Requirements for Raw-Material Selection and Fiber Opening 12
4. Market Potential 13
5. Staple Fiber Spinning Process 14
6. Fiber Preparation 20
7. Yarn Quality for Ring Yarn 23
7.1. Unevenness 23
7.2. Neps 24
7.3. Tenacity and Elongation 25
7.4. Hairiness/Abrasion 27
7.5 Q-Package for Ring Spinning 28
8. Yarn Quality for Spin-Twist Yarn 29
9. Yarn Quality for Rotor Yarn Compared to Ring Yarn 31
9.1. Unevenness 31
9.2. Neps 33
9.3. Tenacity and Elongation 33
9.4. Hairiness and Abrasion 35
2
10. Fabrics 36
10.1. Pilling Performance 36
10.2. Optical Effect in the Fabric 37
10.3. Application 38
11. Process Recommendation 39
12. Economic Viability 41
13. Conclusion 43
3
1. Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Textile Sector
In recent years, better use of raw materi- focuses on the raw material that occurs A wide range of design ideas and grow-
als has become very important in the tex- after the spinning process. Recycled ma- ing consumer willingness to buy prod-
tile sector due to growing environmental terial is collected either from pre-consum- ucts made of recycled raw materials are
awareness, legal requirements for more er steps or after a consumer has worn the increasing the demand. To meet this de-
sustainability, and the cost of raw mate- clothes, so called post-consumer material. mand, the machine technology requires
rials. Today, options for recycling do not adjustment. In addition, intensive coop-
just involve breaking down textiles me- Typical areas for the use of recycled raw eration and coordination between the in-
chanically, they also include chemical material are the production of classic dividual industrial sectors in the whole
opening and using recycled textiles to pro- nonwoven and coarser rotor staple fiber value chain is required. In order to shed
duce new fibers. yarns (Ne 5 – 10). Now the use of recy- some light on the ideal recycling process,
cled raw material in downstream process- Rieter has conducted a study on how to
Raw material that can be reused may be ing is being extended to the production spin recycled post-consumer materi-
generated during the spinning process of finer ring yarns with higher quality al blended with virgin cotton in various
– this is called waste. This publication requirements. blends.
Definition of Textile Recycling – Example Cotton

Focus
Virgin cotton Waste cotton Recycling
Blowroom Pre-consumer Post-consumer
Garments
Card Yarn waste weaving/knitting
(used)
Noil Selvedge
Fabrics
weaving/knitting
Garments
weaving/knitting
(not worn)
Fig. 1: Definition of Textile Recycling
Source: Technology & Process Analytics
4
2. Standards and Guidelines on the Market
There are already institutions that regu- There are a number of other institutions
late fabric labeling to protect the end con- that also deal with standards and labeling
sumer when the product is marketed and for consumers and trade. These include:
commercially available. One important
aim of these institutions is to promote the • Content Claim Standard (CSS)
use of more recycled raw materials. This • Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)
is possible if the quality requirements can • Certification Body (CB)
also be satisfied technically, depending on • Scope Certificate (SC)
the end product. The raw-material quali- • Transaction Certificate (TC)
ty, yarn count, and using an appropriate • ISO/IEC: Rules for the structure and
end spinning process determine whether drafting of International Standards
the requirements are satisfied in the end • ISEAL: Code of Good Practice for setting
product. social and environmental standards
For this reason, it is important that ad-

mixing virgin raw material does not cre-
ate barriers to trade or uncertainty for the
end consumer.
The Global Recycling Standard (GRS) ap-

plies to products containing at least 20%
recycled material. The GRS is intended to
meet the needs of companies looking to
verify the recycled content of their (fin-
ished and intermediate) products and en-
sure that their production processes fulfill
social, environmental, and chemical reg-
ulations. The GRS applies to companies
involved in the ginning, spinning, weav-
ing, knitting, dyeing, printing, and sewing
processes.
5
3. Fiber Quality of Recycled Raw Material That Has Been Broken

Down Mechanically
Preparing the raw material is crucial for The degree of opening of the respective
the staple-fiber spinning process. This is a tearing process has therefore been de-
particular challenge and therefore import- fined as follows:
ant for post-consumer material. The de-
gree of opening of the fabric contents and fabric input – fabric output
the efficiency determine how many fibers Degree fabric opening DFO [%]= �100
fabric input
are already optimally prepared for the
spinning process. To measure this, two
key figures have been defined to describe If the percentage of remaining fab-
the quality of the opening work. ric pieces is 7.7%, the degree of fabric
opening (DFO) would be 92.3%. Even
such a low percentage of remaining fab-
3.1. Degree of Fabric Opening
ric pieces can pose a risk to the subse-
In the current trial, the number of “non- quent carding process if the pieces of
open” fabric pieces remaining in the raw fabric in the staple-fiber spinning pro-
material after the tearing process was cess cannot be opened or removed be-
7 to 8% of the total mass. fore the actual carding process (between
cylinder and flats).
Determination of Fiber Quality

Bale 100% Fabric pieces with knitted structure
in the bale (7.65%) in enlargement
Fig. 2: The degree of fabric opening is decisive for an optimal processing in staple-fiber spinning.
Source: TIS 28967/Technology & Process Analytics
6
3.2. Efficiency of Fiber Opening

from the Tearing Process
In addition to the criterion concerning To this effect, the fibers that have already To calculate the key figure, a test meth-
the number of fabric pieces remaining been opened successfully are defined od has been determined that selects
after the fiber preparation process, the in relation to the fibers that are still to the fibers that have not been opened or
quantity of fibers that are opened after be opened and the fiber fragments, as damaged. The data calculated using the
the tearing process is a further import- follows. test method must be as close as possi-
ant criterion. In this case, fiber frag- ble to manual selection. The proportions
ments that do not benefit the staple-fiber are then determined using gravimetric
spinning process, or that will definitely analysis. After comparing the various
be removed during the staple-fiber spin- measuring methods on the market, the
ning process, are also taken into account. Shirley test device proved ideal for the
selection process.
raw material — non-opened fibers — fiber fragments

Efficency of fiber opening EFO [%]= �100
raw material
Evaluation of Efficiency of Fiber Opening with Shirley
ted here
Stripper knife rac
t
Dust ex
Feed roller
Feed table Cage
pe
r
Dam
Air Taker-in
stream Good fiber and dust
carried on air stream
to cage
Streamer
Delivery box for
plate
cleaned cotton
Fan
Impurities falling
Hinged
from air stream
door
Air control
valve
Trash tray
Dust
exhausted
Fig. 3: The Shirley test device ideally measures the efficiency of fiber opening of the tearing process.
7
The determination quality of the Shirley

device was confirmed by selection re-
sults that closely approximated those of
manual selection.
Efficiency of Fiber Opening Evaluation by Shirley

Bale 100% Open fibers 46% Non-Open Fibers 52.2%
Fig. 4: The fiber opening done by Shirley Source: TIS 28967/Technology & Process Analytics
Efficiency of Fiber Opening Evaluation by Hand

Bale 100% Open fibers 51.1% Non-Open Fibers 48.9%
Fig. 5: The fiber opening done by hand Source: TIS 28967/Technology & Process Analytics
Therefore using the Shirley test device tearing processes, or in the downstream With regard to fiber opening, the fol-
for the selection process results in an ef- staple-fiber spinning process. As with lowing specific values can currently be
ficiency of fiber opening (EFO) of 46%. cotton cleaning, it is recommended that summarized and estimated for the fu-
This must then be increased significant- recycled fibers should ideally be opened ture processing of post-consumer raw
ly, either during fiber opening within the at the start of the process chain. materials.
Rieter Trial [%] Requirements for the Future [%]

Degree of Fabric Opening 92.3 98
Efficiency of Fiber Opening 46 70
8
3.3. Fiber Length Characteristics

The fiber lengths are important key fig- These fiber length characteristics depend
ures after the tearing process and are on whether the material is more difficult
used to determine the downstream spin- to open (usually referred to as “post-con-
ning process to be used (ring or rotor), sumer”) or easy to open (usually referred
the quality (evenness), and the maxi- to as “pre-consumer”). Another criterion
mum spinning count (yarn counts). is whether the fabric within the post-con-
sumer raw material is knitted or woven,
Studies conducted in recent years have i.e. the fabric construction.
shown that three fiber length characteris-
tics are of great importance for the classi- In recent years, the most important fiber
fication of quality: characteristic values have been recorded
for the different raw material categories.
• Short-fiber content [%]
• Mean fiber length [mm]
• 5% fiber length [mm]
Short-Fiber Content at All Positions

Different recycling fibers
100
90
80 75.1 75.7
SFC(n) <12.7 mm (AFIS) [%]
71.3 68.5
70 61.7
58.7 56.5 58.0
60 55.2
46.7 46.1 46.1
50 41.8
40
30 Virgin cotton
24
20
10 0.3 1.5
0
100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 100% CO 65% CO/ 45% CO/ 55% CO/ 100% PES 100% PES
yarn opened opened T-shirt trousers polo-shirt, knitting- opened bleached tear fibers 35% PES 55% PES 45% PES (recycling yarn waste
waste ecru melange white "heavy" shirts remnants denim recycling, bleached work Mixed Mixed PES in wrapping
wrapping carded indigo sorted white white different fabric coats workwear workwear fibers) selvedges
selvedges yarn carded sorted sorted colors white mainly colored provence
yarn sorted white TEIJIN
100% Cotton (CO) Blends 100% Polyester (PES) Virgin cotton
Pre consumer Post consumer
Fig. 6: The short-fiber content of post-consumer material is higher because it is more difficult to open. Source: TIS 28487, 28178, 28572, 28669, 29074 / Technology & Process Analytics
9
Mean Fiber Length at All Positions

50
45
40
34.2
35
L(n) (AFIS) [mm]
28.9
30
25
Virgin cotton
21
20 15.6
14.3 14.6 12.6 13.2 14.5 12.6
15 12.1 11.7
9.8 9.3 10.5
9.1
10
5
0
Fig. 7: Post-consumer material shows a shorter mean fiber length. Source: TIS 28487, 28178, 28572, 28669, 29074 / Technology & Process Analytics
Long Fiber Content at All Positions

60
50
5% Fiber length (AFIS) [mm]
41.0
40 30.9 Virgin cotton 35.6
34.5 29.9 30.2 29.3 29.1
30 28.6 26.1 25.8 27.6
24.0
22.5 21.4 21.3
20
10
0
Fig. 8: Also long fiber content is less with post-consumer material. Source: TIS 28487, 28178, 28572, 28669, 29074 / Technology & Process Analytics
10
Using this information, the following a blend containing up to a maximum of coordination between the industrial sec-
classification has been determined. The 87.5% recycled fibers can be achieved. tors involved improves.
classes have so far allowed for very good The maximum recycled fiber percentage
estimates in terms of processability and that will stabilize in the market depends Due to the fiber damage and/or fiber
yarn quality. on how the requirements for quality, pro- shortening resulting from the unavoid-
Up to recycling class “medium”, fibers ductivity, and efficiency are met. Today, able fiber stress during the mechanical
with a blend containing a maximum of the target for admixing recycled fibers is opening of the fibers, the downstream
75% recycled fibers can be processed between 25% and a maximum of 50%, staple-fiber spinning process must never
using ring spinning technology. For better and this is often achieved. This percent- cause any further stress or shortening.
recycling classes and materials that use age will increase on the market if the co-
man-made fibers as a virgin component, ordination of technical resources and
Rieter Recycling Classification

Fiber key parameters for recycling, developed from AFIS System
Classification Short-Fiber Content Mean Fiber Length 5% Fiber Length
Very good 45% 17 mm 31 mm
Good 55% 14 mm 29 mm
Medium 60% 13 mm 28 mm
Poor 78% 10 mm 22 mm
Cotton as a reference 24% 21 mm 34 mm
Fiber stress/length and fiber neps can influence each other.

The nep content should not exceed 400 – 600 neps per gram raw fiber material
Fig. 9: The Rieter Recycling Classification allows a very good estimation of processability and yarn quality of the used
material.
11
3.4. Requirements for Raw-Material Sorting by The further expansion of the existing re-
Selection and Fiber Opening • Type of raw material cycling industry will, however, require
• Type of fabric construction (woven/knit- adaptation and optimizations throughout
New and more stringent requirements
ting) the entire textile recycling value chain.
for selecting raw materials and the fiber
• Fabric color
opening process will be introduced in
The recycling market will continue to
the future to ensure the staple-fiber
Opening Machinery Design and Setting grow intensively, and the faster the in-
spinning process is efficient and pro-
• Wires or pins of opening points dividual industrial sectors become more
duces high-quality products when using
• Number of opening points coordinated, the better. These include:
recycled fibers. This will also help ensure
• Specific settings depending on fabric • Raw-material procurement/sorting
wider use of recycled raw materials.
construction • Fiber opening
• Staple-fiber spinning process
Automated sorting by the most important
Opening Equipment • Further processing of the yarn
technological criteria, such as raw mate-
• Reduction of “fiber metal stress” by us- • Equipment
rial, fabric construction, and color will in-
ing auxiliary materials such as liquids • Retailers
evitably be used. It will take a long-term,
cross-border approach to identify tech-
The requirement for increased use of re- This will help to drive system develop-
nologies for this purpose that already
cycled raw materials in the textile sector ment for the preparation and processing
exist or can be developed in the future.
will continue to increase in the future. of recycled fibers.
Reasons include limited raw material re-
From the technological process analy-
sources (particularly cotton), increasing
ses that have been conducted to date,
consumer awareness in terms of the en-
a number of key areas for optimization
vironment, and existing legal recycling
and priorities for raw-material extraction
requirements in specific countries.
have been identified in relation to fiber
opening:
Closing the Loop in the Textile Industry
Production Consumer Usage Sorting
Second hand
Recycling Lower-value
Rieter technology know-how applications
Closed-loop
recycling
Fig. 10: One of the goals within the textile industry is to “close the loop,” which refers to the process of recycling and reusing products without material loss.
Source: TIS 28572 / Technology & Process Analytics
12
4. Market Potential
Currently, the global market potential for should only show which raw material For cellulose-based man-made fibers,
further processing raw materials for me- potential is available in Europe alone. such as viscose, modal, and lyocell, the
chanical and chemical recycling can only Therefore it is obvious to do more re- percentage is approximately 10%, since
be estimated up to 2030 on the basis of search and development to recycle the the input fibers are also often used for hy-
fiber production and technical and logis- large amount of raw material resources giene products and are therefore not re-
tical factors. of the textile value chain. cyclable. For other man-made fibers, the
figure is also around 10%, as the recycla-
In 2019, the estimate of collected textile Related to the cotton raw material, a re- ble raw material is already used primar-
waste in Europe is 2.8 million tons per cycling percentage of around 25% can be ily for PET bottles. These figures mean
year (Source: Euratex). The estimation assumed by 2030 on the basis of grow- that for the staple fiber industry, the re-
for Germany are 1.3 million tons of raw ing demand, legislative changes for bet- alistic market potential for recycled raw
material currently reclaimed from tex- ter use of raw materials and the technical materials amounts to around 7.6 million
tiles every year. In Switzerland, the figure possibilities. However, this is only an es- tons annually.
quoted by Texaid is 86 000 tons per year. timate. Estimates from countries such as
Of course, only a small portion of the col- Finland and Sweden, which are very ac-
lected raw materials is returned to the re- tive in the field of raw-material recovery,
cycling process today. The consideration are much higher, at up to 35%.
Market Potential for Recycled Materials
Fiber Production Estimated Potential for Raw Estimated Potential for Net
Basic staple fiber production in 2018 Material Availability Material Availability
(million tons) (million tons) (million tons)
Cotton (26) 25%

Recycled Recycled
post-consumer (7.3)
15% post-consumer (6.2)
Man Made Cellulose (6) 10%
Recycled Recycled
pre-consumer (1.5)
6% pre-consumer (1.4)
Synthetic Polyester (20) 10%
The recycling potential is estimated to be around 15%
Fig. 11: The realistic market potential for recycled raw materials amounts to around 7.6 million tons annually
13
5. Staple Fiber Spinning Process
The application with the highest demand with virgin cotton. The possibility of ex- was then blended with a virgin cotton
for recycled materials is blending recy- panding the recycling market and the of 1 1/8 inch commercial staple. A tuft
cled cotton with virgin cotton. This appli- possible applications for both rotor blending process was used, as blend-
cation was used to determine the optimal yarn and primarily ring yarn was also ing carrier fibers at the beginning of the
spinning process by calculating both the evaluated. staple-fiber spinning process results in
requirements for raw-material prepara- higher operational reliability and quality
tion and the optimal machine configura- To evaluate the quality, performance, during each process step.
tion for spinning staple fibers. and optimum process sequence, a
bleached “post-consumer raw material”
The first stage of this study focused on categorized as “good” was selected ac-
recycled post-consumer fibers opened cording to the previously defined fiber
mechanically (tear fibers), and its blends length characteristics. This raw material
Characteristics of the used raw materials Measuring device Tear fibers Virgin cotton
Raw material Cotton bleached Virgin cotton
Provenience Tear fibers from knitted fabrics Chad
Commercial staple UQL (w) [mm] AFIS 23.4 30.0
Short-fiber content < 12.7 mm (n) [%] AFIS 56.5 22.4
Mean fiber length L (n) [mm] AFIS 12.6 20.2 Fiber length
Mean fiber length CV% L(n) [%] AFIS 63.8 47.0
5% fiber length (n) [mm] AFIS 27.6 33.9
Fiber fineness [dtex] Vibrojet 4.14 [Mic]

2.31 [dtex] Fineness
Fiber fineness [Mic] HVI (1.63 dtex calculated)
Tenacity [cN/tex] Vibrojet 22.4 20.9

Tenacity/
Elongation
Elongation [%] Vibrojet 6.7 8.9
14
100% CO, Tear fibers, bleached
Raw material Non-opened fibers Quality check of tear fiber length
Fig. 12: Raw material Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
The study showed that the maximum The spinning plan covers admixing re-
blend percentage of recycled fibers in the cycled fibers up to the respective max-
respective raw-material composition is imum of 75% with 25% virgin cotton.
75%, as this ensures that the end fiber For comparability and to determine the
construction can be processed using a optimal process sequence for the vari-
spinning process. ous raw-material blends, the production
outputs were kept constant and based
on the highest achievable recycled blend
ratio. This allowed the optimal process
sequence within the spinning process to
be determined depending on the blend
ratio.
15
Different Spinning Processes
To determine the optimal process sequence, the following spinning processes for ring and rotor were used for the various raw-ma-
terial blends.
Direct Process Rotor Spinning
VARIOline Card Rotor Spinning Machine

with RSB module
VARIOline
VARIOline Card Card
Rotor Winder
Direct Process Ring Spinning
CardROBOspin
with
CardRSB-Module
with RSB-Module Draw Draw
frameframe
without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler
Ring, Compact Ring, Compact with Air-jet Roving
Roving
frameframe SER
autoleveler
autoleveler Draw Draw
frameframe
Bale Mgmt VARIOline

Bale Mgmt Card Roving Frame Ring Spinning Machine Palletizer
with RSB module
VARIOline
Card VARIOline Card Card
Shortened Process Rotor Spinning
Card with RSB-Module Draw
Cardframe
with without Draw Draw
with RSB-ModuleAutoleveler
CardRSB-Module frameframe
without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler
SERVOlap Combing preparation Comber SERVOtrail Roving frame Ring, Compact
SERVOlap
Roving
Roving Combing
frameframe Ring, SER
pr
Compact
autoleveler Draw frameautoleveler
frameframe
Bale Mgmt VARIOline

Bale Mgmt Card Autoleveler Rotor Spinning Machine
Draw Frame
VARIOline
VARIOline Card Card
Rotor Winder
Shortened Process RingDraw
Spinning
frame without Autoleveler Draw Draw
frameframe
without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler Combing preparation
Card with RSB-Module
Ring, Compact Card with
CardRSB-Module
with RSB-Module
Roving frame Air-jet SERVOlap Roving
Roving
frameframe Comber
SER
Ring, Compact with
autoleveler ROBOspin
Draw frame autoleveler
frameframe
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt Palletizer
VARIOline Card Autoleveler Roving Frame Ring Spinning Machine
Draw Frame
VARIOline
Twin Yarn Process Compact

DrawSpinning
frame without DrawAutoleveler
frame without Draw Draw
Autoleveler frameframe
without
without Autoleveler
SERVOlap Card with RSB-Module
Combing preparation Card
Comber with
CardRSB-Module
with RSB-Module
Roving frameSERVOtrail RovingSERVOlap
frame Ring, Compact
SERVOlap
Roving
Roving Comber
Combing
pr
Compact
autoleveler Draw frame
frameframe
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt
VARIOline Card Autoleveler Roving Frame Compact Spinning Machine
Draw Frame Com4®compact-twin
VARIOline
Card with Classical

SERVOlap RSB-ModuleProcess
CardRing
withSpinning
Draw
Combing
frame without
RSB-Module
preparation
Draw
Comber
Autoleveler
Cardframe
with without
CardRSB-Module
with RSB-Module Draw Draw
Autoleveler frameframe
without
without
Roving frameSERVOtrail RovingSERVOlap
frame
Autoleveler
Ring, Compact
SERVOlap
Roving
Roving Comber
Combing
pr
Compact
frameframe
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt
VARIOline Card Draw Frame Autoleveler Roving Frame Ring Spinning Machine
Draw Frame
Card
VARIOline
CardVARIOline Card Card
Source: Technology & Process Analytics
Card with RSB-Module Card Draw
withwith
Card frame without
RSB-Module
RSB-Module DrawAutoleveler
Cardframe
Draw without
frame
with
Card without
RSB-Module
with RSB-Module Autoleveler
Draw Draw
frameframe
Autoleveler without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler
SERVOlap Combing preparation Comber Roving frameSERVOtrail Roving SERVOlap
frame
Roving frame SERVOlap
Combing
Ring, CompactSERVOlap
Roving preparation
Roving Combing
Comber
frameframe Ring, pre
SER
Combing
Compact
autoleveler autoleveler
Draw frame
Draw autoleveler
frame autoleveler Draw Draw
frameframe
16
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt
Spinning Plan for Processing a Blend of 75% Tear Fibers and 25% Virgin Cotton
Feed Doubling Draft Output Twist

Machine Delivery
[tex] [fold] [fold] [tex] [ae]/[T/m]
Blowroom Virgin Cotton: A 12 – B 12 – B 34 – A 81 – A 79
Tear Fibers: ------------------ B 34 – A 81 – A 79
Card (with 32 flats in operation) 16 000 80 kg/h
with Module 16 000 1 2.3 7 000

Direct process
Rotor Spinning Machine 7 000 1 237 30 4.7/828 130 000 rpm Rotor 33-XT-BD
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 2.27/80 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
Ring Spinning Machine 738 1 20 37 4.7/740 15 000 rpm
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm
Draw Frame 7 000 6 6 7 000 500 m/min

Shortened process
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 2.27/80 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm

Twin yarn process
Draw Frame 7 000 6 8 5 250 500 m/min
Roving Frame 5 250 1 14.2 369 1 000 rpm
Ring ⌀
Compact Spinning Machine 2 x 369 2 25 30 4.7 / 828 16 000 rpm
42 mm
17

Machine Delivery
Virgin Cotton: A 12 – B 12 – B 34 – A 81 – A 79
Blowroom
Tear Fibers: ------------------ B 34 – A 81 – A 79
with Module 16 000 1 2.3 7 000

Direct process
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 1.99/70 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm
Draw Frame 7 000 6 6 7 000 500 m/min

Shortened process
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 1.99/70 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm

Twin yarn process
Draw Frame 7 000 6 8 5 250 500 m/min
Roving Frame 5 250 1 14.2 369 1 000 rpm
Ring ⌀
42 mm
18

Machine Delivery
Virgin Cotton: A 12 – B 12 – B 34 – A 81 – A 79
Blowroom
Tear Fibers: ------------------ B 34 – A 81 – A 79
with Module 16 000 1 2.3 7 000

Direct process
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 1.71/60 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm
Draw Frame 7 000 6 6 7 000 500 m/min

Shortened process
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 1.71/60 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm

Twin yarn process
Draw Frame 7 000 6 8 5 250 500 m/min
Roving Frame 5 250 1 14.2 369 1.19 / 59 1 000 rpm
Ring ⌀
42 mm
Draw Frame first passage 7 000 6 6 7 000 500 m/min

Classical process
Draw Frame second passage 7 000 6 6 7 000 500 m/min
Roving Frame 7 000 1 9.3 738 1.71/60 1 000 rpm
15 49 4.7/641 14 000 rpm

Ring ⌀
42 mm
25 30 4.7/828 16 000 rpm
19
6. Fiber Preparation
Fiber preparation before the card must Short-Fiber Content during Process Stages
be configured differently when prepar- Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO
ing recycled fibers in comparison to a 60
cotton line. Blending with cotton virgin 55

Short-Fiber content (AFIS) (n) [%]
fibers must also ensure the appropri- 50
ate dosing of the individual components 45
and the long-term homogeneity of the re- 40
cycled fibers. There are various options 35
that can be used in the process sequence, 30

25
depending on quality requirements. This
20
study focused on dosing two raw-materi-
15
al components, and not on the long-term
10
homogeneity of the recycled compo-
NI fibe )
s
le
12
B ner B 12
81
79
75
ut
ss
ss
1)
)
en rs)
r U ar CO
.2
.1
nents. This is due to the fact that the re-
er
ba
tp
ce
ce
s.
fib
de Te 4 (
cA
ss
ss
Ou
as
n
t–
Op lean
re
Pa
Pa
pr
r
en 4 ( B 3
to
ar
(P
cycled raw material came from the same
to
–
fl
s(
s(
t
te
ct
d
NI
Co
bl
ss
Is
75
ne
ale NIc
re
es
es
of
UN
rU
ce
rd
rte
Di
oc
oc
C
U
le
production batch and only a small, but
ro
Ca
3
ne
rd
pr
Pr
Ba
er
p
Sh
e
Ca
n
al
al
in
op
ea
sic
sic
Tw
constant, feed lot. Depending on the ho-
Cl
gB
le
Bl
as
as
e-
Ba
xin
Cl
Cl
Pr
mogeneity requirements, a mixing cham-

Mi
0% Tear fibers CO 25% Tear fibers CO 50% Tear fibers CO

ber can therefore be used at the start of
the process for the recycled raw mate- 75% Tear fibers CO 100% Tear fibers CO
rial, or after the dosing unit for the two
raw material components for long-term Fig. 13: The short-fiber content from bale to draw frame sliver Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
homogeneity.
The fiber length characteristic values are Mean Fiber Length during Process Stages
an essential criterion so that there can be Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO
no further fiber damage in the staple-fi- 30
ber spinning process. There must be no
Mean Fiber Length (AFIS) (n) [mm]
increase in short fibers and no decrease 25
in medium and long fibers (5% fiber 20

length). This is achieved by using the cor-
rect process setup, settings, and technol- 15
ogy components.
10
0
en rs)
NI fib )
s
ale
12
Bl B 34 er B 12
81
79
75
ut
ss
1)
2)
)
r U ar CO
.1
er
es
tp
ce
e
s.
s.
b
fib
oc
de (Te 4 (
A
ss
Ou
ro
as
as
n
–
an
c
re
Pa
pr
3
tto
ar
flo
P
at
to
–
e
s(
s(
s(
te
ct
d
NI
Co
bl
m
Is
75
ne
Ic
re
es
es
es
of
UN
rU
g B r UN
rd
en
te
Di
oc
oc
oc
C
le
Ca
or
e
Op
rd
pr
pr
Pr
Ba
xin ane
Sh
e
Ca
al
al
in
op
ale
en
sic
sic
e
Tw
Cl
le
as
as
e-
Ba
Cl
Cl
Pr
Mi
75% Tear fibers CO 100% Tear fibers CO
Fig. 14: The mean fiber length from bale to draw frame sliver Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
20
In terms of the card, using the optimal 5% Fiber Length during Process Stages
card type (for example the C 75), correct Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO
card clothing, and settings are crucial 37
factors. The card type here represents the 36

5% Fiber Length (AFIS) (n) [mm]
correct carding length between the cyl- 35
inder and the card flat rods. The correct 34
card clothing and settings enables the 33
best-possible fiber transfer from the cyl- 32
inder to the doffer and from the doffer to 31
the concentration of web. This achieves 30
a card production rate of 80 kg/h and re- 29
duces the number of neps, which is also 28
the case for virgin cotton. 27

NI fibe )
s
ale
12
B ner B 12
81
79
75
ut
ss
1)
2)
)
en rs)
r U ar CO
.1
er
es
tp
ce
s.
s.
b
fib
oc
de Te 4 (
A
ss
Ou
ro
as
as
n
–
an
c
re
Pa
pr
en 4 ( B 3
tto
ar
flo
P
at
to
–
e
s(
s(
s(
te
ct
d
NI
Co
bl
m
Is
75
ne
Ic
re
es
es
es
of
UN
rU
g B r UN
rd
te
Di
oc
oc
oc
C
le
Ca
or
e
3
Op
rd
pr
pr
Pr
Ba
xin ane
Sh
e
Ca
al
al
in
op
ale
sic
sic
e
Tw
Cl
le
Bl
as
as
e-
Ba
Cl
Cl
Pr
Mi
Fig. 15: The long fibers from bale to draw frame sliver Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
Neps during Process Stages

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO
1250
1050
Neps (AFIS) [Cnt/g]
850
650
450
250
50
en rs)
NI fib )
)
s
le
12
Bl B 34er B 12
81
79
75
ut
2)
)
r U ar CO
.1
.1
er
es
es
ba
tp
s.
fib
s
oc
oc
de (Te 4 (
cA
ss
Ou
as
s
n
–
Op lean
re
Pa
pr
pr
3
o
ar
(P
o
P
at
to
t
–
Ifl
s(
s(
t
te
ct
d
Co
bl
ss
Is
75
ne
ale NIc
UN
re
es
es
of
ce
UN
rd
en
te
Di
oc
oc
C
U
le
ro
er
Ca
or
rd
pr
Pr
Ba
er
en
p
Sh
Ca
n
al
al
in
op
ea
en
sic
sic
Tw
Cl
gB
le
as
as
e-
Ba
xin
Cl
Cl
Pr
Mi
Fig. 16: The neps from bale to draw frame sliver Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
21
The effective clamping line distances Roving Adhesive Strength and Variation
in the main field are crucial settings for Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Ne 0.8
the downstream draw frame passage. 3 500 30
In some cases, insufficient clamping
line distances can be optimized slight- 3 000 25
Variation adhesive strength CV [%]

ly thanks to the draft division between
Adhesive strength [cN]
2 500 20
the break draft and the main draft. This
is achieved by increasing the break
2 000 15
draft height and lowering the main draft
height. Optimal distances adapted to the 1 500 10
fiber length are preferred.
1 000 5
Due to the shorter fiber length in compar-
ison to virgin cotton, at the roving frame 500 0
it is important to approach the limits of 1.05 1.10 1.15 1.20 1.25 1.30
Draft [fold]
the maximum roving adhesive strength
of 2900 cN, if possible. Otherwise, it 0% Tear fibers | 55 T/m 25% Tear fibers | 60 T/m
is not possible to achieve even draft-
50% Tear fibers | 70 T/m 75% Tear fibers | 80 T/m
ing at the ring spinning machine due to
the fiber mass distribution in the roving. Fig. 17: The adhesive strength indicates the break draft height on the ring spinning machine.
The “roving adhesive strength variation”
measured at the different drafts on the Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
Rothschild meter indicates that the break Twist Factor with Increasing Share of Tear Fibers
draft height on the ring spinning machine Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Ne 0.8
should never be set to higher than 1.25 75
fold. Otherwise, the break draft on the
ring spinning machine has a negative in- 70
fluence on drafting and therefore on yarn

65
evenness, depending on the tear-fiber
Twist factor [αm]
content in the blend. 60
The higher the tear-fiber content, the 55
greater the twist coefficient or number of 50

twists on the roving.
45
40
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 18: The higher the proportion of recycled material, the higher the torsion and the lower the productivity at the roving
frame.
22
7. Yarn Quality for Ring Yarn
7.1. Unevenness Unevenness at Different Draw Frame Passages

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Ring yarn, αe 4.7
Unevenness increases as the content of
25
tear fibers increases. Up to a tear fiber 24
share of 50%, unevenness is 4% higher 23
22
in absolute terms in comparison to a vir-
Mass variation CVm [%]
21
gin raw material. It is only at a recycled 20
19
content of 75% that unevenness values 18
greatly exceed those achieved using a 17 Uster Statistics 95% Line
16
virgin raw material. In practice, compar- 15
ing the quality to a virgin raw material is 14
less relevant than considering for which 13
12
product a yarn with greater unevenness 11
can be used. In terms of processability 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
and quality, however, 75% was estab- Tear fibers CO [%]
lished as the limit for the recycled fiber Direct process Ne 12 Direct process Ne 16 Direct process Ne 20
content.
Shortened process Ne 12 Shortened process Ne 16 Shortened process Ne 20
The greater the tear-fiber content, the Classical process Ne 12 Classical process Ne 16 Classical process Ne 20
smaller the difference between yarn
counts. One important finding is that Fig. 19: Up to a tear fiber count of 50%, unevenness is 4% higher in absolute terms in comparison to a virgin raw material.
use of one draw frame passage is the
optimal choice for processing recycled
fibers in blends. Neither the direct pro-
cess using an RSB-Module nor the classic
process using two draw frame passages the long-wave cutting length range. For
are suitable for this process. One argu- this reason, the draft at the draw frame
ment against the direct process is that, passage and the doubling must never be
in addition to short fibers, both the recy- set to more than 6 fold. If finer slivers are
cled fibers and those admixed with vir- to be produced as a result of fine roving,
gin cotton have sufficient carrier fibers doubling should be reduced to 4 fold. In
for an optimal draft process. Even at a the classic process, the total drafts would
tear-fiber content of 75%, the short-fiber therefore already be too high to achieve
content is only approximately 42% and an even draft on the sliver.
therefore not yet within the range where
a direct process is recommended.
Nevertheless, due to the smaller total

draft, the direct process results in a larger
sliver adhesion length overall, which usu-
ally involves fewer drafting errors, thus
resulting in slightly better unevenness in
23
7.2. Neps Neps at Different Draw Frame Passages

Fiber nep formation is influenced far 2 200
more by the fiber tearing process than 2 000
by fiber preparation as part of the sta- 1 800
ple-fiber spinning process. This is why
Neps +200% [/1 000m]
1 600
the number of neps in the yarn is already 1 400
much higher in a blend containing a re- 1 200

1 000
cycled fiber content of 50% in compar-
800
ison to 100% virgin raw material. Both 600
the unevenness and the neps indicate 400
Uster Statistics
that a blend containing 50% recycled 200 95% Line
fiber already results in an unique yarn 0
structure. The applications for further 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Tear fibers CO [%]
processing the yarn must therefore be
selected in line with quality and design Direct process Ne 12 Direct process Ne 16 Direct process Ne 20
requirements.
Classical process Ne 12 Classical process Ne 16 Classical process Ne 20
Fig. 20: A blend with 50% recycled fibers shows higher neps compared to 100% virgin cotton and result in a unique
yarn structure.
24
7.3. Tenacity and Elongation Breaking Tenacity at Different Draw Frame Passages
Tenacity reduces as the recycled and
21
short-fiber content increases. The short-
20
ened drafting process produces a yarn
tenacity that is, in absolute terms, 19
Tenacity Average [cN/tex]
0.5 cN/tex higher than the direct process. 18

Uster Statistics
17
95% Line
If an average minimum tenacity of 16
12 cN/tex, a yarn count range of between
15
Ne 12 and Ne 20, a weakness of 8 cN/tex
and an average elongation of 2% are as- 14
sumed for air-jet weaving machines, 13
yarns with a recycled content of 75% 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Tear fibers CO [%]
would still be usable for weft weaving in
weaving mills. Direct process Ne 12 Direct process Ne 16 Direct process Ne 20
Fig. 21: With a tenacity of above 12 cN/tex all yarns in the graph can be used for weft weaving in weaving mills.
Breaking Tenacity at Different Draw Frame Passages

17
16
15
Tenacity P0.1 (5) [cN/tex]
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Direct process Ne 12 Direct process Ne 16 Direct process Ne 20
Fig. 22: The tenacity of the weak points in the yarn are around 4 cN/tex lower than the tenacity average.
25
Breaking Elongation at Different Draw Frame Passages

7.0
6.5
Elongation Average [%]
6.0
5.5
5.0 Uster Statistics

95% Line
4.5
4.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 23: With an elongation of above 2% all yarns in the graph can be used for weft weaving in weaving mills.
Breaking Elongation at Different Draw Frame Passages

5.0
4.5
Elongation P0.1 (5) [%]
4.0
3.5
3.0
2.5
2.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 24: The elongation of the weak points in the yarn are around 2% lower than the elongation average.
26
7.4. Hairiness/Abrasion Hairiness at Different Draw Frame Passages

Hairiness is directly related to short-fiber
10.0
content and therefore negatively influ- 9.5
ences abrasion. This means from a re- 9.0
8.5 Uster Statistics
cycled content of 50%, there would be a 8.0 95% Line
deterioration in value-in-use characteris- 7.5
Hairiness [H]
7.0
tics such as pilling, especially in knitted 6.5
fabrics. There would be less of an impact 6.0
5.5
in woven fabric as a result of yarn inte- 5.0
gration. However, the finished product 4.5
4.0
would still be expected to have a short- 3.5
er lifespan compared to a virgin raw ma- 3.0
terial. The benefit of more sustainable 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Tear fibers CO [%]
raw-material utilization is thus mitigated
by slightly shorter lifespan for the final Direct process Ne 12 Direct process Ne 16 Direct process Ne 20
product. Since fashionable items often
have a shorter lifespan in any case, this
does not necessarily bring disadvantages Classical process Ne 12 Classical process Ne 16 Classical process Ne 20
for the end user.
Fig. 25: Hairiness is directly related to short-fiber content and therefore negatively influences abrasion and influences the
value-in-use characteristics such as pilling, especially in knitted fabrics.
With otherwise predominant and clear
advantages for the shortened process
compared to the direct process, there is
slightly higher abrasion with a blend con-
taining more than 30% recycled fibers
as a result of higher fiber parallelism.
From a recycled content of 50%, abra-
sion values from the shortened process
are greater than those from the direct
process. However, the advantages and
disadvantages must be considered and
weighted as a whole.
27
Abrasion at Different Draw Frame Passages

60
55
50
Abrasion [mg/1 000m]
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 26: From a recycled content of 50%, abrasion values from the shortened process are greater than those from the
direct process.
7.5 Q-Package for Ring Spinning Q-Package for Ring Spinning Machine
In order to process recycled fibers on a

ring spinning machine, special fiber feed-
ing is required in drafting system. The
Q-Package for use on ring and compact
spinning machines for cotton has prov-
en a reduced IPI over the entire spinning
process. Without any influence on the
yarn tenacity, the Q-Package reduces im-
perfections and Classimat faults.
Fig. 27: Depending on fiber requirements different drafting system elements for the ring spinning machine are available.
28
8. Yarn Quality for Spin-Twist Yarn
Producing spin-twist yarns (Com4com- Breaking Tenacity Ring Yarn vs. Compact-Twin Yarn
pact-twin yarn) on a compact-spinning Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Shortened process, Ne 20, αe 4.7
machine can improve unevenness by a 21
further 1% in absolute terms for a low re- 20

cycled content of 25%. This equates to a
relative improvement of 7%. 19
18
Producing spin-twist yarns also has a
17
hugely positive influence on tenaci-
ty, hairiness, and abrasion. In absolute 16
terms, the average tenacity can be in- 15

creased by 2 cN/tex. Hairiness can be
decreased in absolute terms by approx- 14
imately one point, while abrasion is re- 13

duced by at least 50% in relative terms. 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Ring yarn Ring compact-twin yarn Ring compact-twin yarn with Q-Package
Fig. 28: With a compact-twin yarn the tenacity can be increased by 2 cN/tex compared to a single yarn.
Hairiness Ring Yarn vs. Compact-Twin Yarn

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Shortened process, Ne 20, αe 4.7
10.0
9.5
9.0
8.5
8.0
7.5
Hairiness [H]
7.0
6.5
6.0
5.5
5.0
4.5
4.0
3.5
3.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 29: With a compact-twin yarn the hairiness can be decreased by absolutely one point.
29
Abrasion Ring Yarn vs. Compact-Twin Yarn

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic./Tear fibers CO, Shortened process, Ne 20, αe 4.7
60
55
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 30: With a compact-twin yarn abrasion is reduced by at least 50% in relative terms.
Source: 28178/Technology & Process Analytics
30
9. Yarn Quality for Rotor Yarn Compared to Ring Yarn
9.1. Unevenness Unevenness on Ring and Rotor Yarn

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, Ne 20, αe 4.7, Rotor 33-XT-BD
In essence, the rotor spinning machine is 25
better suited to processing fibers with a 24
high short-fiber content (> 30%), which 23
22
is reflected in better evenness. This is
Mass variation CVm [%]
21
due to better fiber feeding of the opened 20
19
fibers in the closed fiber feed channel 18
and the downstream doubling of the in- 17
dividual fibers in the rotor. The tear fibers 16
15 Uster Statistics
used contained 56% short fibers and re- 14 95% Line (Rotor)
sulted in a short-fiber content of between 13
12
30% and 45%, depending on the type of 11
blend with virgin cotton. In terms of yarn 0 10 20 30 40 50 60
70 80
evenness, the qualitative strengths of Tear fibers CO [%]
the rotor spinning process are therefore Ring yarn classical process Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
clearly evident.
Rotor yarn shortened process Rotor yarn direct process
In addition, the rotor spinning process of- Fig. 31: The rotor spinning machine is better suited to processing fibers with a high short-fiber content which is reflected
fers two options in the process sequence. in better evenness.
The higher sliver adhesion length asso- Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
ciated with the direct process can have
a marginally beneficial impact on long- Unevenness on Ring and Rotor Yarn
wave unevenness in a cutting length Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, Ne 20, αe 4.7, Rotor 33-XT-BD
range of 1 to 3 meters. However, coun- 8.0
tering this is the lack of sliver doubling, 7.5
which negatively impacts long-term ho- 7.0
mogeneity of the recycled raw material. 6.5
In the rotor spinning process, two pro- 6.0
CVm 1m [%]
cess sequences are possible: the direct 5.5
process and the shortened process. 5.0

4.5
4.0
3.5
3.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Ring yarn classical process Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
Fig. 32: Both rotor spinning processes show acceptable values also with high tear fiber content.
31
Unevenness on Ring and Rotor Yarn

5.0
4.5
4.0
CVm 3m [%]
3.5
3.0
2.5
2.0
0 10 30 40 50 60 70 80
20
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 33: The direct rotor spinning process with higher sliver adhesion length has a beneficial impact on the long-wave
unevenness.
Unevenness on Ring and Rotor Yarn

3.0
2.5
CVm 10m [%]
2.0
1.5
1.0
0 10 30 40 50 60 70 80
20
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 34: The direct rotor spinning process reaches the best values here, too.
32
9.2. Neps Neps on Ring and Rotor Yarn

In addition to the advantages of the rotor
600
spinning process over the ring spinning
process in respect of fiber feeding, rotor 500
spinning also offers the advantage of
Neps +280% [/1 000m]
being able to extract fine fiber knots and 400
trash particles with fibers from virgin 300

cotton thanks to the opening roller and
the extraction unit. This results in signifi- 200
Uster Statistics
cantly lower nep values with the rotor 95% Line (Rotor)
100
spinning process compared to ring spin-
ning as the recycled content percentage 0
increases. The disadvantages of the ring 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
spinning process increase disproportion- Tear fibers CO [%]
ately as the recycled content percentage Ring yarn classical process Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
increases and, in extreme cases, can be
up to five times higher than with the rotor Rotor yarn shortened process Rotor yarn direct process
spinning process.
Fig. 35: Significantly lower neps in rotor spinning compared to ring spinning, especially when the recycled content increases.
9.3. Tenacity and Elongation Breaking Tenacity on Ring and Rotor Yarn
Due to the yarn structure and creation 21
of fiber-fiber friction, spinning systems 20
have a greater impact on yarn tenacity 19
than the recycled content of the blend
18
or fiber length characteristics. The ring 17
spinning process therefore achieves sig- 16
nificantly higher tenacities than rotor 15
spinning. In both rotor spinning and 14
ring spinning, yarn tenacity decreases 13
in a linear relationship with the recycled 12
Uster Statistics
95% Line (Rotor)
content. 11
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 36: Yarn structure and fiber-fiber-friction of the ring yarn significantly contribute to the high tenacity.
33
The tenacity requirements for the further Breaking Tenacity on Ring and Rotor Yarn
processing of rotor yarns in the weaving Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, Ne 20, αe 4.7, Rotor 33-XT-BD
mill are no longer met above a recycled 16
content of 75%. To expand recycling ap- 14

plications in the future, it will therefore
Tenacity P0.05 (2) [cN/tex]
12
be essential to ensure that recycled raw
10
materials can also be processed optimal-
ly using the ring spinning process in ad- 8
dition to non-woven fabric production 6

and rotor spinning in the coarse yarn 4
count range.
2
An additional advantage of the ring spin- 0

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
ning process is much greater elongation.
Tear fibers CO [%]
This significantly improves the working
capacity of the yarns, thus opening up Ring yarn classical process Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
weaving mill applications. Rotor yarn shortened process Rotor yarn direct process
Fig. 37: The tenacity of the weak points in the yarn are between 8 and 14 cN/tex.
Breaking Elongation on Ring and Rotor Yarn

7.0
6.5
Elongation Average [%]
6.0
5.5
Uster Statistics
5.0 95% Line (Rotor)
4.5
4.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 38: With the ring spinning process a much greater elongation was reached.
34
9.4. Hairiness and Abrasion Hairiness on Ring and Rotor Yarn

Hairiness is influenced primarily by the
10.0
yarn structure in the end-spinning pro- 9.5
cess. Rotor yarns generally exhibit less 9.0
8.5
hairiness than ring yarns, bringing ad- 8.0
vantages for further processing and in 7.5
Uster Statistics
Hairiness [H]
7.0
the final product (e.g. in terms of the pill- 6.5
95% Line (Rotor)
ing characteristics.) Hairiness and abra- 6.0

sion are also influenced by the recycled 5.5
5.0
fiber content in the blend. As the blend 4.5
ratio and therefore short-fiber content 4.0
3.5
increases, so do hairiness and abrasion. 3.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Fig. 39: Due to its yarn structure, rotor yarns generally exhibit a lower hairiness than ring yarns, what is also valid here.
Abrasion on Ring and Rotor Yarn

60
50
40
30
20
10
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
Fig. 40: Lower hairiness means lower abrasion, a positive aspect for rotor yarns.
35
10. Fabrics
10.1. Pilling Performance Pilling Values on Ring and Rotor Yarn

Pilling performance of the recycled raw
5.0
material is equivalent to that of the vir-
gin raw material. This can be attribut-
ed to the fact that the shorter staple of 4.0
Grade [/5 000 cycles]
the recycled fiber gives it a higher stiff-

ness, making it less prone to pilling than 3.0
a longer fiber. Thus, the slenderness of
the fiber has a greater influence on the
pilling characteristics than the short-fi- 2.0
ber content. This means that the pilling

characteristics of recycling fibers were 1.0
no worse than the virgin cotton used, 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
despite a higher short-fiber content and Tear fibers CO [%]
therefore increased hairiness. Ring yarn classical process

Card setting cotton (CO)
Yarn structure clearly has a greater influ- Ring yarn classical process Ring yarn shortened process Ring yarn direct process
ence. It is apparent that, as usual, rotor Card setting recycled cotton (RCO)
yarn achieves better pilling values than a Ring yarn classical process Twin yarn shortened
ring yarn. Only the production of a twin process
yarn produces equivalent pilling charac-
Fig. 41: The pilling performance of yarns with recycling fibers is equivalent to yarns from virgin cotton.
teristics to rotor yarn.
36
10.2. Optical Effect in the Fabric

As the proportion of recycled fibers in- The opening roller unit on the rotor spin- via the blowroom, are efficiently separat-
creases, the result is a lighter-colored ning machine has an additional positive ed out on the rotor spinning machine by
woven or knitted fabric since the tear fi- effect. The fabrics produced from the the opening roller.
bers are bleached. The better yarn un- rotor yarn contain significantly fewer
evenness on the rotor yarn compared to fine trash particles. These trash particles,
the ring yarn is clearly reflected in the which are produced by the addition of
fabrics. virgin cotton or were not separated out
Ring yarn (woven fabric)
Virgin cotton 25% tear fibers 75% tear fibers

Rotor yarn (woven fabric)
25% tear fibers 75% tear fibers

Ring yarn (knitted fabric)
Virgin cotton 25% tear fibers 75% tear fibers

Rotor yarn (knitted fabric)
25% tear fibers 75% tear fibers
Fig. 42: The better yarn unevenness on the rotor yarn compared to the ring yarn is clearly reflected fabrics. Source: TIS 28178/Technology & Process Analytics
37
10.3. Application
Due to good pilling values and positive
optical characteristics in the fabric, the
following applications are realistic:
Fig. 43: Denim and Workwear Source: Kipas TR 100% recycled cotton
Fig. 44: T-Shirts Source: ECOALF 60% virgin cotton 40% recycled cotton
38
11. Process Recommendation
We can derive the process steps, from This results in several options for fiber
fiber preparation through to the ring and preparation within the blowroom line
rotor yarn, from the results obtained with VARIOline. The downstream process se-
the intermediate product, the yarn, and quence can either produce ring yarn or
the fabric. rotor yarn, depending on the final prod-
The fiber opening process must include uct requirements, with two different pro-
• Bale opening cess sequence options for the rotor yarn:
• Fiber opening and removal of fabric the direct process and the shortened
pieces process.
• Dosing for the blend components
• One or two “long-term blends”, de-
pending on customer requirements, to
achieve sufficient homogeneity in the re-
cycled component
Process Recommendation for Fiber Preparation
RECYCLED LINE
UNIfloc UNImix
CARDS
COTTON LINE UNIblend UNImix
UNIfloc UNIclean UNImix UNIstore
Fig. 45: For fiber preparation this is one possible set-up.
39
Process Recommendation for Spinning Recycled Raw Material
Ring spinning – Recycling cotton in blends with virgin cotton or polyester
VARIOline Card Autoleveler Roving Frame Ring Spinning Machine

Draw Frame
Card VARIOline
VARIOline Card Card
Rotorwith
spinning
Card – Recycling
RSB-Module cottonwithout
Draw frame in blends
Draw framewith virgin
without
Card cotton
Autoleveler
with or polyester
Autoleveler
CardRSB-Module
with RSB-Module Draw frame
Draw frame
without
without Autoleveler
SERVOlap Autoleveler
Combing preparation
Combing preparation Comber SERVOtrail
autoleveler autoleveler Draw frame Draw frame
Roving frameRoving frame Ring, Compact
SERVOlap Roving Combing
Roving
frame
Ring, with Comber
preparation
frame
Compact SER
ROBOspin
autoleveler
Draw frame
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt
VARIOline Card Autoleveler Rotor Spinning Machine
Draw Frame
VARIOline
VARIOline Card Card
Rotor Winder
Card with RSB-Module Draw frame without Autoleveler Draw frame
Draw frame
without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler
Ring, Compact Ring, Compact with ROBOspin Card
autoleveler
with
CardRSB-Module
Draw frame
with RSB-Module Air-jet
Roving frame
autoleveler
SERVOlap
Combing
Draw frame
preparation
RovingRoving
frame frame Comber SER
VARIOline Card Rotor Spinning Machine

with RSB module
BaleVARIOline
BaleVARIOline
Mgmt Mgmt Card Card
Rotor Palletizer
Winder
Fig. 46: To spin tear fibers in blends with virgin cotton one process for ring spinning and two processes for rotor spinning are recommended. Source: Technology & Process Analytics
Ring, Compact Ring, Compact with ROBOspin Card with with RSB-Module Air-jetDraw frame
CardRSB-Module Draw frame
without
without Autoleveler
Autoleveler
RovingRoving
frame frame SER
autoleveler
Draw frame
Bale Mgmt
Bale Mgmt Palletizer
40
12. Economic Viability
In the application case using a yarn count Comparison of Costs in Turkey

between Ne 12 and 20, the yarn conver- Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, αe 4.7
sion costs are calculated for ring yarns 1.1
and rotor yarns in Turkey. 1.0

0.9
If only the yarn conversion costs are 0.8
taken into account, waste is higher in 0.7

Costs [CHF/kg]
the processing of post-consumer materi- 0.6
al than virgin cotton raw material owing 0.5
to the number of non-open pieces of fab- 0.4
ric. Waste in the staple-fiber spinning 0.3
process increases with a higher recycled 0.2
content. Naturally, the yarn conversion 0.1
costs are valid only if the pieces of fab- 0.0

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
ric are not broken down during tearing or
Tear fibers CO [%]
the staple-fiber spinning process. In the
pre-consumer material application case, Ring yarn shortened process Ne 12 Ring yarn shortened process Ne 20
for example, this consideration does not Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 20
Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 12
apply because the waste is equal to or
lower than with the use of virgin cotton Fig. 47: As expected, yarn conversion costs for ring yarns are up to 0.3 cent/kg higher than for rotor yarn.
raw material. The extraction of pieces of
fabric or trash does not apply here. Source: TIS 28178 / Technology & Process Analytics
As expected, yarn conversion costs for

ring yarns are up to 0.3 cent/kg higher
than for rotor yarn (Fig. 47).
Alongside yarn conversion costs, anoth- higher price for only a negligible reduc- case would be a return on investment
er important factor in the economic anal- tion in yarn or fabric quality to achieve that rises again in years for the staple
ysis is return on investment, which also better global use of raw material resourc- fiber yarn producer.
takes the price of the raw material and es and better sustainability.
the yarn sale price into account (Fig. 48). There will be greater or lesser scope for
Blending and processing recycled raw It should therefore be considered realis- the economic viability of the staple-fi-
materials offers interesting and very tic for a blend containing 25 – 50% re- ber yarn production process depending
good opportunities for the economic suc- cycled raw material to increase the yarn on whether it is a case of yarn trading or
cess of the staple-fiber spinning process. sale price by at least 0.1 – 0.2 cent/kg, a fully integrated process. In any case,
depending on the end-spinning process the economic analysis shows interesting
The economic analysis is based on the and yarn count (Fig. 49). possibilities and opportunities for pro-
assumption of a slightly cheaper recy- cessing recycled cotton raw materials
cled raw material price compared to a A blend containing 75% recycled mate- using staple-fiber yarn production.
medium-quality virgin cotton and a com- rial results in a disproportionate reduc-
mercial staple of 1 1/8 inches with a tion in yarn quality, meaning that a yarn
short-fiber content of < 26%. The calcu- sale price that is lower than or equiva-
lation is also based on the realistic view lent to virgin cotton raw material is to be
that trade will be prepared to accept a expected accordingly. The result in this
41
Return on Investment in Turkey

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, αe 4.7
8
5
ROI [year]
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Ring yarn shortened process Ne 12 Ring yarn shortened process Ne 20
Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 12 Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 20
Fig. 48: The economic analysis shows interesting opportunities for processing recycled cotton raw materials.
Source: 28178/Technology & Process Analytics
Yarn Price in Turkey

Virgin CO 29.7mm, 4.1 Mic/Tear fibers CO, αe 4.7
3.0
2.8
2.6
Yarn price [CHF/kg yarn]
2.4
2.2
2.0
1.8
1.6
1.4
1.2
1.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Tear fibers CO [%]
Ring yarn shortened process Ne 12 Ring yarn shortened process Ne 20
Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 12 Rotor yarn shortened process Ne 20
Fig. 49: It should be realistic to increase the yarn sale price by at least 0.1 – 0.2 cent/kg for a blend containing 25 – 50%
recycled raw material.
42
13. Conclusion
In recent years, better use of raw materi- For acceptable yarn quality and opera- production of twin yarns on the com-
als has become very important in the tex- tional reliability, a blend containing up to pact-spinning machine allows yarn te-
tile sector due to growing environmental 75% recycled content is possible in this nacity to be increased in blends with a
awareness, legal requirements for more raw material configuration. tear fiber content of up to 50% and also
sustainability, and the cost of raw ma- allows unevenness to be improved.
terials. As a result, more research and Rotor yarn has the best unevenness due
development is being carried out in the to the closed fiber transport within the Pilling performance of the recycled raw
various areas of raw-material recycling. fiber feed channel and fiber doubling in material is equivalent to that of the vir-
the rotor with a high short-fiber content gin raw material. This is attributed to the
Requirements and key figures for the me- (> 30%). There are two options for the higher fiber stiffness and low slender-
chanical opening of post-consumer mate- fiber preparation process, depending on ness. The fibers either do not knot or, at
rial must be defined for each industrial the yarn quality requirements: the direct most, only fall out of the yarn formation,
sector. The “Degree of Fabric Opening,” process and the shortened process. but do not result in increased pilling as
“Efficiency of Fiber Opening,” and “Fiber would have been expected on account of
Length Characteristics” are examples Ring yarn, by contrast, has the highest the higher hairiness. Even under these
that have been defined and classified in yarn tenacity on account of more inten- conditions, rotor yarn still demonstrates
this study. sive fiber integration. This opens up a better pilling characteristics than ring
Coordination and cooperation between wider range of applications, namely the yarn. Only a multi-component ring yarn
the different industrial sectors, from the increased use of these yarns in weav- like the twin yarn achieves the same
procurement of raw materials through to ing mills. In the case of ring yarns, the good pilling values as a rotor yarn.
the new final product, will also be vital.
Only then will it be possible to expand
The spinning plan parameters achieved can be summarized as follows.
and optimize the entire recycling process
to help it grow into a larger market. In the
Blends with Tear Fibers and Virgin Cotton
next few years, quantities are expected
to amount to at least 7.5 million tons per Tear fibers (75%) with virgin cotton 1 1/8 inch (25%)
year if the current trend continues.
Card production [kg/h] 80
The object of this study are recycled Twist factor roving [ae] 2.3
post-consumer final products (tear fi- Spin limitation for ring yarn and rotor yarn [Ne] 20
bers) blended with an average 1 1/8 inch
Twist factor for ring yarn and rotor yarn [ae] 4.7
African cotton in various blends. The
study successfully demonstrated that the
staple-fiber spinning process does not
Today, a blend with up to 75% recycled content (rotor) and 60% recycled content
cause any further fiber shortening with
(ring) is economically viable.
optimal processing. However, process
sequence adjustments, machine modifi-
cations, and setting adjustments are re-
quired for almost all process steps.
43
Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Rieter India Private Ltd. Rieter (China) Textile www.rieter.com
Klosterstrasse 20 Gat No. 768/2, Village Wing Instruments Co., Ltd.
CH-8406 Winterthur Shindewadi-Bhor Road 390 West Hehai Road The data and illustrations in this brochure
and on the corresponding data carrier refer
T +41 52 208 7171 Taluka Khandala, District Satara Changzhou 213022, Jiangsu
to the date of printing. Rieter reserves the
F +41 52 208 8320 IN-Maharashtra 412 801 P.R. China
right to make any necessary changes at any
[email protected] T +91 2169 664 141 T +86 519 8511 0675 time and without special notice. Rieter sys-
[email protected] F +91 2169 664 226 F +86 519 8511 0673 tems and Rieter innovations are protected
by patents.
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Textile Technology

The Increasing Importance of Recycling

1. Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Textile Sector 4

2. Standards and Guidelines on the Market 5

3.1. Degree of Fabric Opening 6

3.2. Efficiency of Fiber Opening from the Tearing Process 7

3.3. Fiber Length Characteristics 9

3.4. Requirements for Raw-Material Selection and Fiber Opening 12

5. Staple Fiber Spinning Process 14

7. Yarn Quality for Ring Yarn 23

7.3. Tenacity and Elongation 25

7.5 Q-Package for Ring Spinning 28

8. Yarn Quality for Spin-Twist Yarn 29

9. Yarn Quality for Rotor Yarn Compared to Ring Yarn  31

9.3. Tenacity and Elongation 33

9.4. Hairiness and Abrasion 35

10.1. Pilling Performance 36

10.2. Optical Effect in the Fabric 37

11. Process Recommendation 39

12. Economic Viability 41

1. Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Textile Sector

Definition of Textile Recycling – Example Cotton

Virgin cotton Waste cotton Recycling

Blowroom Pre-consumer Post-consumer

Fig. 1: Definition of Textile Recycling

Source: Technology & Process Analytics

2. Standards and Guidelines on the Market

For this reason, it is important that ad-

The Global Recycling Standard (GRS) ap-

3. Fiber Quality of Recycled Raw Material That Has Been Broken

Determination of Fiber Quality

Source: TIS 28967/Technology & Process Analytics

3.2. Efficiency of Fiber Opening

raw material — non-opened fibers — fiber fragments

Evaluation of Efficiency of Fiber Opening with Shirley

Source: TIS 28967/Technology & Process Analytics

The determination quality of the Shirley

Efficiency of Fiber Opening Evaluation by Shirley

Efficiency of Fiber Opening Evaluation by Hand

Rieter Trial [%] Requirements for the Future [%]

3.3. Fiber Length Characteristics

Short-Fiber Content at All Positions

100% Cotton (CO) Blends 100% Polyester (PES) Virgin cotton

Pre consumer Post consumer

Mean Fiber Length at All Positions

100% Cotton (CO) Blends 100% Polyester (PES) Virgin cotton

Pre consumer Post consumer

Long Fiber Content at All Positions

100% Cotton (CO) Blends 100% Polyester (PES) Virgin cotton

Pre consumer Post consumer

Rieter Recycling Classification

Classification Short-Fiber Content Mean Fiber Length 5% Fiber Length

Very good 45% 17 mm 31 mm

Cotton as a reference 24% 21 mm 34 mm

Fiber stress/length and fiber neps can influence each other.

Closing the Loop in the Textile Industry

Production Consumer Usage Sorting

Source: TIS 28572 / Technology & Process Analytics

Market Potential for Recycled Materials

1. Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Textile Sector 4

2. Standards and Guidelines on the Market 5

5. Staple Fiber Spinning Process 14

7. Yarn Quality for Ring Yarn 23

8. Yarn Quality for Spin-Twist Yarn 29

9. Yarn Quality for Rotor Yarn Compared to Ring Yarn 31

11. Process Recommendation 39

12. Economic Viability 41