MACRAMÉ FOR BEGINNERS

The Complete Macramé Guide with Step-By-

Step Knots Instructions to Make Your DIY
Projects and Patterns for Home Decor, Wall
Hangings, Plant Hangers, Jewelry, and
Bracelets

Veronica Wilson
© Copyright 2021 by Veronica Wilson. All rights reserved.
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 TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER 1. MACRAMÉ TOOLBOX
MACRAMÉ SUPPLIES
CORD MEASUREMENT
MEASURING WIDTH
CORD PREPARATION
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A STRING, A ROPE AND A CORD
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR MACRAMÉ
CHAPTER 2. MACRAMÉ BASIC KNOTS
LARK’S HEAD KNOT
REVERSE LARK’S HEAD KNOT
CAPUCHIN KNOT
CROWN KNOT
DIAGONAL DOUBLE HALF-KNOT
FRIVOLITE KNOT
HORIZONTAL DOUBLE HALF-KNOT
JOSEPHINE KNOT
CHAPTER 3. MORE MACRAMÉ BASIC KNOTS
CHINESE CROWN KNOT
HALF KNOTS AND SQUARE KNOTS
SPIRAL STITCH
CLOVE HITCH
OVERHAND KNOT
GATHERING KNOT
CHAPTER 4. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: PLANT HANGERS
MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (BEGINNER)
MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (INTERMEDIATE)
MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (ADVANCED)
CHAPTER 5. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: HANGING OBJECTS
CIRCLE WALL HANGING
HANGING TABLE
BOTTLE HOLDER
HANGING BASKET
CHAPTER 6. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: JEWELRY
DIY MACRAMÉ BRACELET
DIY MACRAMÉ RHINESTONE BRACELET
DIY SLIDING KNOT BRACELET
DIY GOLD TUBE BRACELET
DIY BRAIDED BEAD BRACELET
CHAPTER 7. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: INDOOR ITEMS
MACRAMÉ WALL AND DOOR HANGINGS
DREAM CATCHER
MACRAMÉ TABLE RUNNER
CHAPTER 8. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: MORE INDOOR ITEMS
MACRAMÉ PILLOW
MIRROR WALL HANGING
AMAZING MACRAMÉ CURTAIN
CHAPTER 9. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: OUTDOOR ITEMS
MACRAMÉ LAWN CHAIRS
MACRAMÉ OUTDOOR PLANTER
MACRAMÉ FRINGE UMBRELLA
MACRAMÉ PLACEMAT
MACRAMÉ HANGING LANTERN JARS
CHAPTER 10. MORE MACRAMÉ PROJECTS
LANTERN
LAMP WIRE
SUNSCREEN MACRAMÉ HOLDER
YARN GARLAND
BUNTING
MINI MACRAMÉ SUCCULENT EGG DECORATIONS
 BOHO CHRISTMAS TREE
TASSELS
CHAPTER 11. POINTS TO REMEMBER AND FAQS
PRACTICE THE SKILL
INVEST IN THE FIBER OF HIGH-QUALITY
MAINTAIN SUFFICIENT TENSION
SELECT EASY PATTERNS
USING THE RIGHT ROPE AMOUNT
FAQS
CHAPTER 12. MACRAMÉ BASIC TERMINOLOGIES
CONCLUSION
ERROR 1: WHEN TYING A KNOT, DOING IT IN A SLOPPY WAY
ERROR 2: NOT MAKING THE CORD LONGER WHEN MAKING A KNOT
ERROR 3: NOT USING ENOUGH TENSION WHILE TYING KNOTS AND CORDS TOGETHER
ERROR 4: NOT USING THE RIGHT TYPE OF KNOT FOR A CERTAIN MACRAMÉ PROJECT
HOW CAN YOU PREVENT MAKING MACRAMÉ MISTAKES?
 INTRODUCTION

Macramé is an intricate weaving technique with roots in South America and

Africa. It looks difficult, but it requires little more than a couple of basic
knots to get started.
This book will teach you how to create various macramé projects. With these
simple techniques under your belt, you’ll be able to whip up something for
yourself or your friends in no time at all.
If you are not familiar with the name macramé, the term is derived from the
French word “macarrier,” which means to tie together. This is how it got its
name—tying together different strings of material was how the craft started
centuries ago, just as weaving was an ancient method of making fabrics.
Macramé works well for a beginner because it requires only rope and knots.
There’s no needlework involved, no sewing on buttons or gathering
tulle/netting/ribbon/fringe/etc. It’s all done by tying your knot—creating a
loop in one end of your rope or cord and then wrapping and weaving that
cord around something else using knots as anchors.
Macramé materials are fairly easy to find, but they are not the easiest things
in the world to work with—they are slippery and hard to hold on to. A
knotted cord is thick enough to fray over time, so if you use it, you will
probably have to replace it every 2−3 years. The knotting process itself can
sometimes be frustrating, especially if it’s your first time working with that
type of material/knotting. You may end up untangling the cord from itself or
getting knots out of the way so you can continue weaving your project.
(Don’t worry—I’ve got solutions for all these problems).
This book will also provide the basic techniques for working with macramé
cord, step-by-step instructions for doing the projects, and tips to help you get
through all these difficulties.
You can make macramé in several ways—the two most common are knotting
and weaving. The knots use one kind of cord, while weaving uses braided or
knotted material. Both methods of working involve knots, but bindings from
tying off one piece of material to another as well as simple looping
techniques are also used in both.
Anchoring the pieces of material together is very important in macramé. You
can’t just weave a cord around the pieces and expect a nice finish.
When making macramé, there are two types of knots you will encounter:
Plain knots (butterfly knot, square knot, and arbor knot): these are the
most basic knots. They are beautiful and create fairly durable knots. If you
are going to knot something by hand rather than using a cord/string/Marcella
rope with no natural fiber content (resistant to fraying), these should be your
knot type of choice. They are also good to use when making a series of knots
in one string.
Plaited knots: these knots look like braids and are particularly useful for
heavy materials, such as leather or thicker rope. Plaited knots also hold up
better to wear-and-tear (e.g., rubbing against clothes or furniture) because
more strands of material are secured in the knot rather than two end pieces
that can fray and break off over time with wear and tear.
Learn more as you progress through the stages of learning this craft, and you
will find that your experience with macramé rapidly improves, resulting in
beautiful pieces you can be proud of.
 CHAPTER 1. MACRAMÉ TOOLBOX

MACRAMÉ SUPPLIES
Macramé stylists make use of different types of materials. Materials can be
classified into two major categories: natural materials and synthetic materials.

Natural Materials
The qualities of natural materials differ from synthetic materials, and
knowing these qualities would help you to make better use of them. Natural
cord materials existing today include jute, hemp, leather, cotton, silk, and
flax. There are also yarns made from natural fibers. Natural material fibers
are made from plants and animals.

Synthetic Materials
As natural materials, synthetic materials are also used in macramé projects.
The fibers of synthetic materials are made through chemical processes. The
major ones are nylon beading cord, olefin, satin cord, and parachute cord.
CORD MEASUREMENT
Before embarking on a macramé project, it is essential that you determine
how much rope you will need. This includes knowing the length of the
required cord and the total number of materials you have to purchase.
Equipment: To measure, you will need paper for writing, a pencil, a tape
rule, and a calculator. You would also need some basic knowledge of unit
conversion as shared below:
1 inch = 25.4 millimeters = 2.54 centimeters
1 foot =12 inches
1 yard = 3 feet = 36 inches
1 yard = 0.9 meters

Note: The circumference of a ring = 3.14 * diameter measured across the

ring.
MEASURING WIDTH
The first thing to do is to determine the finished width of the widest area of
your project. Once you have this width, pencil it down.
Next, determine the actual size of the materials by measuring their width
from edge to edge.
You can then proceed to determine the type of knot pattern you wish to use
with the knowledge of the knot pattern. You must know the width and
spacing (if required) of each knot. You should also determine if you want to
add more cords to widen an area or if you would need extra cords for damps.
With the formula given above, calculate and determine the circumference of
the ring of your designs.
Determine the mounting technique to be used. The cord can be mounted to a
dowel, ring, or other cord. Bent cords affect both the length and width of the
cord measurement.
CORD PREPARATION
Although it is not often emphasized, the preparation of cords and their
preparation for use in macramé projects is one of the fundamental pillars of
the art of macramé. At times, specialized processes such as conditioning and
stiffening of cords need to be carried out before macramé projects can be
begun. In general, however, cord preparation in macramé is mainly
concerned with dealing with cut ends and preventing these ends from
unraveling during the project. During a project, constant handling of
materials can distort the ends, which can end up having disastrous
consequences on your project. Before starting your project, if you do not
appropriately prepare special kinds of cords, like ones that were made by the
twisting of individual strands, that cord is likely to come apart, effectively
destroying your project completely.
Therefore, cord preparation is extremely and incomparably important to the
success of any macramé project; the preparation of each cord is meant to be
done during the first step of making any knot, which is the step where you cut
out your desired length of cord from the larger piece.
For cord conditioning, experts recommend rubbing beeswax along the length
of the cord. To condition your cord, simply get a bit of beeswax, let it warm
up a bit in your hands, and rub it along the cord’s length. This will help
prevent unwanted tight curls on your cord. Note that beeswax may be applied
to both natural and synthetic materials. However, in the case of synthetic
materials, only satin and fine nylon cords require mandatory conditioning.
After conditioning, inspect your cords for any imperfections and discard
useless pieces to ensure the perfection of your project. After conditioning
then comes the actual process of cord preparation. Cords can be prepared
(i.e., the ends can be prevented from fraying) through the use of a flame, a
knot, tape, and glue.
To prevent unraveling of your cord using a flame, first test a small piece of
the material with the flame from a small lighter. The material needs to melt,
not burn. If it burns, then such a cord is not suitable for flame preparation. To
prepare using a flame, simply hold the cord to the tip of the flame for 2 to 5
seconds, make sure the cord does not ignite but melts. Flame preparation is
suitable for cords made from olefin, polyester, and nylon, and the process is
compulsory for the preparation of parachute cords.
Tying knots at the end of the cord is another effective method to prevent
fraying. The overhand knot is an all-time favorite, but some knots are best
suited to flexible cords, can be used if you think the knot might have to be
undone at some point in your project. The Stevedore knot can be used to
prevent fraying when using slippery materials.
Glue is another priceless alternative that can be used to prevent fraying at the
ends of cords efficiently. However, not all kinds of glue may be used in cord
preparation. Only certain brands, such as the Alien’s Stop Fray™, may be
used in cord preparation. Household glue might also be used, but only when
diluted with water. To prepare your cord, simply rub the glue on the ends of
the material and leave it to dry. If you intend to pass beads over the glued
end, roll the cord’s end between your fingers to make it narrower as it dries.
Nail polish may also be used as an alternative to glue.
Simply wrap the tape around the end of the cord where you want to prevent
the fraying of your material. Make sure the end of the cord remains narrow
by squeezing it between your fingers. It is advisable to use masking tape or
cellophane tape for your preparations.
A special class of macramé cords, known as a parachute cord, requires a
special form of preparation. To prepare a parachute cord, pull out the core
yarns from the sleeve, and expose the yarns by about half an inch. Now cut
the core yarns back so that they become even with the outer sleeve, and then
push the sleeve forward till the yarns become invisible. To complete the
preparation, apply flame to the outer sleeve till it melts, and then press the
handle of your lighter onto the sleeve while it’s still warm to flatten the area
and keep it closed up. The melted area will look darker and more plastic than
the rest of the material.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
Finishing techniques refer to the methods by which the ends of cords after
knots have been created may be taken care of to give a neat and tidy project.
Finishing is often referred to as tying off. Several finishing knots are
available and are extremely effective methods for executing finishing
processes. Reliable finishing knots include the overhand knot and the barrel
knot.
Folding techniques are also reliable finishing techniques. For flexible
materials like cotton, all you need to do is fold the ends flat against the back
surface and add glue to the ends to hold them in place. For less flexible
materials, fold the cords to the back, then pass them under a loop from one or
more knots, and then apply glue, allow it to dry, and cut off excess material.
Finally, you can do your finishing with the aid of fringes. You may choose
between a brushed fringe and a beaded fringe.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A STRING, A ROPE AND A
CORD
Macramé string is the smooth single twist string that Niroma Studio started
working with as it is known today.
String stretches faster than string or thread because it unwinds quickly such
that the total width will range from 1 to 1.5 mm from when firmly wounded
along the conduit to when splitting and breathable. Other retailers can mark
something special, so keep that in mind.
“What’s the right macramé string for beginners?” I always get questioned,
and I always choose the 5 mm natural cotton string. It is the right size to hang
a nice medium-sized wall, and it fits better than the 3 mm; plus, it has a very
compact medium twist on it, and it can be gently unknotted and reknitted a
couple of times before losing its credibility as long as you are conscious. And
being gentle on the hands, of course, always tends to keep you moving!
Macramé rope is typically a 3-strand rope where the fibers are wrapped
around each other (sometimes called a 3-ply). I saw it in four strands, but
traditional rope appears to be three strands. Macramé rope is usually stronger
than macramé string, and it gives you a nice, wavy fringe when you untwist
it, so it’s perfect for adding dimension to your job.
Since it is heavier, I like to use it for parts of items that would have to carry
considerable weight. Macramé rope often stretches when it has been cut, so
depending on where you stay, how much humidity you have, etc., it will also
stretch up to 1 cm. Macramé rope is typically a 6-strand (or more) braided
thread, or what I believe was more widely used for macramé in the 1970s, so
early 1980s when the cotton string wasn’t exactly ‘the thing’ to use. The
tightly woven cotton macramé rope is sometimes called “sash rope.” Sash
rope is a little rigid to use and quite hard to remove, yet it’s incredibly solid,
so it’s perfect for weight-bearing parts and if you’re trying to add plenty of
strength to your job. In my experience, Macramé rope is the worst on hands,
but when you want a certain look or versatility, there’s no discomfort, no
cost!
Then there is polypropylene (or polyolefin) macramé rope; some of you may
recognize one labeled variant as Bonnie Design String, which is perfect for
outdoor usage because it does not shape because easily as cotton. The edge
can be “frizzy,” and that’s only something to hold in mind.

TOOLS REQUIRED FOR MACRAMÉ

Macramé Project Board
A project mounting board is a principal device required for macramé. The
board is the working area where it secures the work. At art shops, you can
find boards with grid-inch markings and fitting directions written on the
fronts. A project board may, therefore, be rendered by gluing together or
using cork foam sheets. The board may be suitable for a macramé project, so
long as it is thick enough to prevent the nails from sticking out the back.

T-Nails

T-Nails are used to secure onto the mounting board the macramé yarn or
rope. T-nails come out in various sizes. Smaller nails are ideal for smaller,
more delicate designs. Nails appear to break follow prolonged wing use.
Those built of steel are more durable and can maintain for longer use.

Pattern

Many things can be created with macramé—from purses to infant mobiles. A

handy tool is a macramé template. Macramé patterns provide step-by-step
guidance on the knots to be used, directions for calculating, and guidelines
for final assembly. Buy patterns, or you will search them online.

Scissors

A decent pair of sharp scissors could be used to cut threads correctly on a

macramé layout. There are different sizes and comfort grips. Consider
purchasing the sort to cover the blades with a sheath protector.
Tweezers

Another device used for the decoration function is tweezers. You can use a
pair of tweezers to help good knot threads between the beadwork.
Needles

Needles are used for macramé. Needles are used for the alignment of the
completed product and perforation. Depending on the inclination are used
blunt-end or tapestry needles and Chenille or pointed needles. Specific
measurements are used to fit yarn styles like silk or nylon and for different
formed beads.

CHAPTER 2. MACRAMÉ BASIC KNOTS

LARK’S HEAD KNOT

This is a boundless foundation knot for any venture and can be used as the
foundation of the project. Use a lightweight cord for this; it can be purchased
at craft stores or online wherever you get your macramé supplies.
Watch the photos very carefully as you move along with this project, and
take your time to ensure you are with the correct string at the correct point of
the project.

Use the base string as the core part of the knot, working around the end of the
string with the cord. Make sure all is even as you loop the string around the
base of the cord.
Create a slipknot around the base of the string and keep both ends even as
you pull the cord through the center of the piece.

For the finished project, make sure that you have all your knots secure and
firm throughout, and ensure it is all even. It is going to take practice before
you can get it perfectly each time, but remember that practice does make
perfect, and with time, you are going to get it without too much trouble.
Make sure all is even and secure and tie off. Snip off all the loose ends, and
you are ready to go!
REVERSE LARK’S HEAD KNOT

This is a great beginning knot and can be used as the foundation of the
project. Use a lightweight cord for this; this again can be purchased at craft
stores or online wherever you get your macramé supplies.

Do not rush and ensure you have even tension throughout. Practice makes
perfect, but with the illustrations to help you, you will find it is not hard at all
to create.
Use two hands to make sure that you have everything even and tight as you
work. You can use tweezers if it helps to make it tight against the base of the
string.
Utilize both hands to pull the string evenly down against the base string to
create the knot.

Once more, keep the base even as you pull the center, creating the firm knot
against your guide cord.
CAPUCHIN KNOT

This knot for any project and can be used as the foundation of the project.
Use a lightweight cord for this.
Watch the photos very carefully as you move along with this project, and
take your time to ensure you are using the correct string at the right point of
the project.

Start at the base cord, tying the knot in it, and work your way down the
length of the project.

Twist the cord around itself two times, pulling the string through the center to
form the knot.

Make sure all is even and secure and tie off. Snip off all the loose ends, and
you are ready to go!

CROWN KNOT
This is a great beginning knot and can be used as the foundation of the
project. Use a lightweight cord for this.

Never rush, then make sure you have even tension throughout. Practice
makes perfect, but with the illustrations to help you, you will find it is not
hard at all to create.
Use a pin to help keep everything in place as you are working.

Weave the strings in and out of each other, as you can see in the photos. It
helps to practice with different colors, to help you see what is going on.
Pull the knot tight, then repeat for the next row on the outside.

Stay to do this as often as you like to create the knot. You can make it as
thick as you like, depending on the project. You can also create more than
one length on the same cord.

DIAGONAL DOUBLE HALF-KNOT

This is the seamless knot to use for decorations, basket hangings, or any
projects that are going to require you to put weight on the project. Use a
heavier weight cord for this, which you can find at craft stores or online.

Do not rush, also make sure you have even tension throughout. Practice
makes perfect, but with the illustrations to help you, you will find it is not
hard at all to create.
Twitch at the uppermost of the project then work your way toward the
bottom. Keep it even as you work your way throughout the piece. Tie the
knots at 4-inch intervals, working your way down the entire thing.
Weave in and out throughout, watching the photo as you can see for the right
placement of the knots. Again, it helps to practice with different colors, so
you can see what you need to do throughout the piece.

FRIVOLITE KNOT
This can be used as the foundation for the base of the project. Use a
lightweight cord for this too. It can be bought at craft stores or online.

No need to rush, and make sure you have even tension throughout. With the
illustrations to help you, you may find it is not hard at all to create.
Use the base string as the guide to hold it in place, then tie the knot onto this.
This is a very straightforward knot; look at the photo and follow the
directions you see.
Pull the end of the cord up and through the center.

When done, make sure that you have all your knots secure and firm
throughout, and ensure it is all even. Make sure all is even and secure and tie
off. Snip off all the loose ends.
HORIZONTAL DOUBLE HALF-KNOT
It can be used as the foundation for the base of the project. Use a lightweight
cord for this by purchasing from wherever you get your macramé supplies.

Follow the photos very carefully and take your time to make sure you are
using the correct string at each point of the project.
Make sure you have even tension throughout. Practice makes perfect, but
with the illustrations to help you, you will find it is not hard at all to create.
Twitch at the uppermost of the project, then work your way toward the
bottom. Keep it even as you work your way throughout the piece. Tie the
knots at 4-inch intervals, working your way down the entire item.

Once finished, make sure that you have all your knots secure and firm
throughout, and do your best to make sure it is all even. Make sure all is even
and secure, and tie and snip off all the loose ends.
JOSEPHINE KNOT

This is the ideal knot to use for decorations, basket hangings, or any projects
that are going to require you to put weight on the project. Use a heavier
weight cord for this, which you can find at craft stores or online.
Follow the photos very carefully as you move along with this project. Take
your time to correctly move the cords. Do not rush, and make sure the cords
have even tension throughout.

Use the pins along with the knots that you have tied, and work with larger
areas simultaneously. This is going to help you keep the project in place as
you continue to work throughout the piece.
Pull the ends of the knots through the loops and form the ring at the center of
the strings.

If you are done, make sure that your knots are secure and firm, making sure
they are all even. It is going to take practice before you can get it perfectly.

Make sure all is even and secure and tie off. Snip off all the loose ends.
CHAPTER 3. MORE MACRAMÉ BASIC KNOTS

CHINESE CROWN KNOT

This can be used as the foundation for the base of the project. Use lightweight
cord for this—it can be purchased at craft stores or online wherever you get
your macramé supplies. Do not rush, and make sure you have even tension
throughout. Practice makes perfect, but with the illustrations to help you, you
will find it is not hard at all to create. Use a pin to help keep everything in
place while you are working. Weave the strings in and out of each other, as
you can see in the photos. It helps to practice with different colors to help you
see what is going on. Pull the knot tight, then repeat for the row on the
outside.
Continue to do this as often as you like to create the knot. You can make it as
thick as you like, depending on the project. You can also create more than
one length on the same cord.

HALF KNOTS AND SQUARE KNOTS

One of the most commonly used macramé knots is a square knot, and it can
also be generated as a left or a right-facing knot. The half-knot is actually half
a knot in a rectangle. This may be left or right facing; it entirely depends on
which side you work from.
Square knots require at least four cords (two active cords and two filler
strings) but may provide more. The operating strings are the first and the last
ones. We will name them to string one and string four in operation. The
cables in the center are filler cables, so we’re going to list those two and
three. Such cords swap locations but still maintain their initial numbering.
A square knot (left facing) on the left side of the completed knot has a
vertical hump. Take your first cord (operational cord one) and pass it over the
middle cords (filler cords two and three) to the right and under your final
cord (operational cord 4). Take operational cord four and shift it under all
filler cords and over operational cord one to the west. Push all operating
cords to close, leaving cords parallel to the filler. It is a half-square knot faced
to the west. Functional cords currently swapped places on the right with
functional cord one and operating cord four on the left. Taking running cord
one and pass it over the two filler cords to the left and under operating cord
four. Take functioning cord four and shift it under all filler strings and
overworking cord one to the right. Pull and tie all active strings. Hold cables
straight on the material. It completes the square knot to the left side.
A half-knot and square knot facing the right side of the completed knot has a
vertical hump. Remove the last cord (cord four) and transfer it over the filler
cords (strings two and three) and under the first cord (cord one) to the west.
Take working cord one and push it under the filler cords and overworking
cord four to the center. Pull and lock all strings, making it clear. That is a
half-square knot facing right. Functional cords now have positions swapped,
and working cord one is on the right and working cord four on the left. Take
work cord four over to the side, over the cords of the filler, and underworking
cord one. Take job cord one and shift it to the west, beneath the filler cords
and above working cord four. Pull and tie all active strings. It is a knot in a
square facing right.
SPIRAL STITCH
The Spiral Stitch, also known as a Half Knot Spiral or a Half Knot Sinnet, is
a set of half knots for spiral stitch formation. It is a decorative stitch that will
be of great importance to your group. The spiral stitch requires at least four
strings, two functioning strings, and two filler cords, although it may have
more. Such strings are internally labeled 1−4 and shift from left to right.
Strings one and four are the active strings, and the filler cords are cords two
and three. Such instructions explain how to create a spiral stitch on the left
side, but you could also begin on the right-hand side and use half knots on the
correct side. Take job cord one and push it over your filler cords to the right
just under operating cord four.
Push working cord four to the west, move under the cords of the filler but
over your working cord one. Remove all operating cords and stretch the cords
around the filler. Hold the same direction as before, allowing further half ties.
The cords will continue spiraling as you operate.

CLOVE HITCH
In your ventures, the Clove Hitch, sometimes known as a Double Half Hitch,
generates row. Sometimes we can use verticality, horizontality, or
diagonality.
A Horizontal Clove Hitch is a series of knots that run through your macramé
project. The first chord in the knot is your filler rope, and the remainder of
your cords are functioning cables. Take the left cord and place your filler
cable horizontally over the other strands. To create a counter-clockwise
circle, take your next cord (the first functioning cord) and carry it forward
and then up and across the filler cord towards your left. Take your same cord
and take it up, though and across the circle, to the right of your first knot.
Two ties will now lie next to each other. That is a hook tie parallel to the
clove. Undo the knots of the clove hook using your next operating rope along
the same filler string. Continue to build the ties before you have the knot or
pattern that you seek.

For your project, a Diagonal Clove Hitch produces a set of diagonal ties.
Take the chord at the left and place the filler chord diagonally between the
other strings. Follow measures two through four of the horizontal clove
hitches, going diagonally rather than straight through. Repeat before you
have your perfect feel.
OVERHAND KNOT
An Overhand Knot is a simple knot that ties together multiple cords.
Different cables may be used or even one cable. Stretch the string around a
circle. Move the ends of your strings to close around the coil.
GATHERING KNOT
Also known as a Wrapping Knot, the gathering knot is a closure knot that
binds cords together. You can also find these at the end of the plant hangers
for macramé. This knot comprises two functioning strings; the remaining
strings are going to work as filler cords. You need to take a different cord
length (it is going to be your working cord) and build a lengthy loop (u-
shaped) above the filler cord ring, with the loop facing downwards.

Beginning below the functioning cord’s top-end—which points upwards—

wrap it across your filler cords and your string. Make sure you keep the loop
exposed for a while. Move the wrapping string end into the loop on the
bottom of your wrappings. Pick up one end of your cord—that’s stuck out
upwards—that will put the rope under your wraps. Draw through the wraps
before the coil is enclosed. The knot inset is complete. To get a smooth
finish, cut both ends of your working cord if you wish.
 CHAPTER 4. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: PLANT
HANGERS

MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (BEGINNER)

Description: Plant hanger of 2 feet and 5.5 inches (75 cm)

Knots: Square knot, alternating square knot, a half knot, and gathering knot.
Supplies:
Cord: 10 strands of a cord of 18 feet and 0.5 inches (5,5 meter), 2
strands of 3 feet and 3.3 inches (1 meter)
Ring: 1 round ring (wood) of 1.6 inches (4 cm) diameter
Container: 7 inches (18 cm) diameter

Directions (step-by-step):
1. Fold the 10 long strands of cord in half through the wooden ring.
2. Tie all (now 20) strands together with 1 shorter strand with a
gathering knot. Hide the cut cord ends after tying the gathering knot.
3. Make a square knot using all cords: use from each side 4 strands to
make the square knot; the other 12 strands stay in the middle.
4. Divide the strands into 2 sets of 10 strands each. Tie a square knot in
each set using 3 strands on each side (4 strands stay in the middle of
each group).
5. Divide the strands into 3 sets of 6 strands for the outer groups and 8
strands for the group in the middle. Tie a square knot in each set
using 2 strands on each side.
6. Divide the strands into 5 sets of 4 strands each and make a square
knot with each set.
7. Continue with the 5 sets. In the 2 outer sets, you tie 4 square knots,
and in the 3 inner sets, you tie 9 half knots.

8. Using all sets tie 7 alternating square knots by connecting two strands
in each set with the right two strands of the set to it. In the first, third,
fifth, and seventh row, you are not using the 2 outer strands on each
side.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. In repeating step 8 you tie 5 alternating square
knots instead of 7 alternating square knots.
10. To help you with the steps, number the strands from left to
right, numbering them no.1 to no. 20.

11. With the 4 middle strands (no. 9 to 12) you make 14 square
knots.

12. Make a square knot with the set of 4 strands no. 3 to 6 and the
set of 4 strands no. 15 to 18.
 13. Divide the strands into 4 sets of 4 strands (ignore the set with
the 14 square knots in the middle) and tie 12 square knots in each set.

14. Dropdown 2 inches (5 cm).

15. Make 5 sets in the following way and tie in each set a square
knot:
a. Set 1 consists of strands no. 5, 6, 1 and 2
b. Set 2 consists of strands no. 3, 4, 9 and 10
 c. Set 3 consists of strands no. 7, 8, 13 and 14
d. Set 4 consists of strands no. 11, 12, 17 and 18
e. Set 5 consists of strands no. 19, 20, 16 and 15
16. Drop down another 2 inches (5 cm), no knots. This is the
moment to place your chosen container/bowl into the hanger to make
sure it will fit. If you need to leave more space without knots to fit
your container, you can do so.

17. Gather all strands together and then tie a gathering knot with
the left-over shorter strand. Trim all strands at different lengths to
finish your project.
MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (INTERMEDIATE)

Description: Plant hanger of 4 feet and 3

inches (1,30 meter)
Knots: Square knot, alternating square knot, a half knot, alternating half
hitch, gathering knot.
Supplies:
Cord: 8 strands of cords of each 26 feet and 3 inches (8 meters), 1
short strand of cord
Wooden Ring: 1 round ring (wood) of 1,6 inches (4 cm) diameter
Container/Flowerpot: 7 inches (18 cm) diameter

Directions (step-by-step):
1. Fold 8 strands of cord, the long ones, in half over and through the
ring. Now you have 16 strands of cord in total. Group them in sets of
four strands.
2. Tie 4 square knots on each set of four strands.

3. Dropdown 3.15 inches (8 cm).

4. Tie 4 strands in each set with the right two of the set to it. Repeat on
each of the 4 sets.
5. Dropdown 4.3 inches (11 cm).
6. Repeat step 4, starting with the 2 right strands this time.

7. Take 2 strands of 1 set and make 10 alternating half hitch knots.

Repeat for the 2 left strands of that set. Repeat for all sets.
8. Dropdown 3.9 inches (10 cm) and tie a row of 48 half knots on each
set of four strands.
9. Take the 2 middle strands of each set and make 8 alternating half
hitch knots. You leave the 2 strands on the side of the set as they are
(without knots).

10. Tie a row of 30 half knots on each set of four strands.

11. Use a new short strand of cord to make a gathering knot around all
strands.
12. Cut off and fray the ends as desired.
MACRAMÉ PLANT HANGER (ADVANCED)

Description: Plant hanger of 2 feet and 5.5 inches (75 cm)

Knots: Square knot, alternating square knot, crown knot, gathering knot, and
overhand knot.
Supplies:
Cord: 4 strands of the cord of 13 feet and 1.5 inches (4 meters), 4
strands of 16 feet and 4.8 inches (5 meters), 2 strands of 3 feet and
3.4 inches (1 meter)
Ring: 1 round ring (wood) of 1.5 inches (4 cm) diameter
Beads: wooden beads
Cristal Bowl/Container: 7 inches (18 cm) diameter

Directions (step-by-step):
1. Fold the 8 long strands of cord (4 strands of 13 feet and 1.5 inches
and 4 strands of 16 feet and 4.8 inches) in half through the wooden
ring.
2. Tie all (now 16) strands together with 1 shorter strand with a
gathering knot. Hide the cut cord ends after tying the gathering knot.

3. Divide the strands into 4 sets of 4 strands each. Each set has 2 long
strands and 2 shorter strands. Tie 5 Chinese crown knots in each set.
Pull each strand tight and smooth.
4. Tie 8 square knots on each set of four strands. In each set, the 2
shorter strands are in the middle and you are tying with the 2 outers,
longer strands.

5. Tie 15 half square knots with each set.

6. Dropdown 5.5 inches (14 cm), no knots, and tie an alternating square
knot to connect the left two cords in each set to it.

7. Dropdown 3.15 inches (8 cm) and tie an alternating square knot with
4 strands again.
8. Dropdown 1.5 inches (4 cm). Place your chosen container/bowl into
the hanger to make sure it will fit, gather all strands together and then
tie a gathering knot with the left-over shorter strand. Add a bead to
each strand end (optional). Tie an overhand knot in each strand and
trim all strands just below the overhand knots.
 CHAPTER 5. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS:
HANGING OBJECTS

CIRCLE WALL HANGING

This multifunctional, large-scale wall hanging can also be used as a small
rug. Just a few basic knots are used to create the distinctive form of the piece,
and you can change the color of the rope to suit your decor. If you intend to
use the piece as a rug, jute makes a practical alternative to cotton rope.
Materials:
158.4m (527ft) length of 8mm (5/16in) rope
Metal rings: one 6cm (23/8in); one 29cm (113/8in); one 55cm
(22in); one 65cm (251/2in)

Knots and Techniques:

Reverse Lark’s Head Knot
Square Knot
Double Half Hitch
Half Knot Spiral
Fraying

Preparation:
1. Cut forty-eight 3m (10ft) lengths of 8mm (5/16in) rope
2. Cut twenty-four 60cm (231/2in) lengths of 8mm (5/16in) rope
Method:
1. Mount sixteen 3m (10ft) lengths of rope onto the 6cm (23/8in) metal
ring using reverse lark’s head knots so that the mounted rope covers the
ring. Place the ring on a flat surface so that the cords radiate out from
the ring.
2. Directly beneath the ring, tie eight square knots around the diameter of
the ring.
3. Alternate cords, drop down 4cm (11/2in), and tie a row of eight square
knots, keeping the ring flat on the work surface and the cords radiating
out from the ring.
4. Tie another eight square knots directly beneath.
5. Place the 29cm (113/8in) metal ring on top of the cords, ensuring it is
evenly spaced from the first ring all the way around. This is now to be
used as the holding cord.
6. Tie the cords onto the ring with double half hitches, ensuring that each
of the cord groups is evenly spaced around the ring.
7. To cover the ring in between the cord groups, mount four 3m (10ft)
lengths of rope with reverse lark’s head knots in each of the eight
spaces, using all the thirty-two remaining 3m (10ft) lengths.
8. Directly beneath the ring, tie twenty-four square knots around the
diameter of the ring.
9. Take four adjacent cords beneath one of the square knots tied in step 8
and work six more square knots to create a sinnet of seven square knots
with no spaces in between.
10. Take the next four cords and create a half-knot spiral net made
with twelve half knots.
11. Repeat steps 9 and 10 to continue this pattern around the ring,
alternating square knot, and half knot spiral sinnets.
12. Place the 55cm (22in) metal ring on top of the cords, ensuring
it is evenly spaced from the second ring all the way around. This is now
to be used as the holding cord. Tie the cords onto the ring with double
half hitches and ensure the sinnets are evenly spaced around the ring.
13. Mount the twenty-four 60cm (231/2in) lengths of rope onto the
ring, one in each of the spaces between the sinnets, using reverse lark’s
head knots.
14. Directly beneath the ring, tie thirty-six square knots around the
diameter of the ring.
15. Tie another thirty-six square knots directly beneath the
previous row.
16. Place the 65cm (251/2in) metal ring on top of the cords,
ensuring it is evenly spaced from the third ring all the way around. This
is now to be used as the holding cord. Tie the cords onto the ring with
double half hitches.
17. Trim the cords to 6cm (23/8in) and fray.
HANGING TABLE
Give your living area a unique focal point with this truly amazing hanging
table. While it can be used to display lighter ornaments, all eyes will be on
the macramé itself. The hanging ‘chain’ is created from Chinese crown knots,
and a beautiful square knot picot design has been used for the hanging straps.
Please note: to hang the table, a hook must be inserted into a ceiling beam
with a minimum weight-bearing capacity of 10kg (22lb).
Materials:
147m (482ft) length of 5mm (1/4in) rope
Metal rings: one 6cm (23/8in); one 9cm (31/2in)
30cm (1ft) length of 2.5mm (1/8in) cotton twine
40–60cm (155/8–231/2in) circular tray of your choice

Knots and Techniques:

Wrapped Knot
Chinese Crown Knot
Double Half Hitch
Square Knot
Alternating Square Knot Pattern
Square Knot Picot Design
Overhand Knot
Fraying

Preparation:
1. Cut sixteen 9m (291/2ft) lengths of 5mm (1/4in) rope
2. Cut two 1.5m (5ft) lengths of 5mm (1/4in) rope
Method:
1. Mount the sixteen 9m (291/2ft) lengths of rope onto the 6cm (23/8in)
metal ring by folding them in half over the inside of the ring.
2. Using a 1.5m (5ft) length of rope, secure the cords together with a 5cm
(2in) wrapped knot.
3. Separate the cords into four groups of eight cords and tie six Chinese
crown knots.
4. Directly beneath the Chinese crown knots, place all the cords inside the
9cm (31/2in) metal ring. The metal ring sitting horizontally is now to
be used as the holding cord. Keeping the ring level at all times, tie
double half hitches with all cords onto the ring.
5. Secure the ring in place by tying a row of eight square knots directly
beneath the ring.
6. Separate the cords into four groups of eight cords. Each group now
becomes a sinnet. Repeat steps 7–14 for each sinnet.
7. Tie eight rows of alternating square knots.
8. Dropdown 5cm (2in) and tie a square knot using four filler cords and
two working cords on either side. This is an 8-cord square knot.
9. Dropdown 3cm (11/8in) and tie another 8-cord square knot.
10. Slide the square knots up the filler cords to create a square knot
picot design.
11. Dropdown 5cm (2in) and tie three rows of alternating square
knots.
12. Repeat steps 8–11.
13. Dropdown 27cm (105/8in) and tie nine rows of alternating
square knots.
14. Alternate cords by taking four cords from each adjacent sinnet
and bringing them together. Dropdown 22cm (85/8in) and tie an 8-cord
square knot (so that each sinnet is joined to the one next to it with an 8-
cord square knot).
15. Dropdown 7cm (23/4in), gather all cords together and use the
30cm (1ft) length of cotton twine to tie a double overhand knot.
16. Cover the overhand knot with a 5cm (2in) wrapped knot using
the remaining 1.5m (5ft) length of rope.
17. Trim the cords to the desired length and fray.
18. Insert the circular tray to create the tabletop.
BOTTLE HOLDER
Perfect for storage of a bottle of wine, this beautiful holder could also be used
to showcase your favorite glass vase, and it could even double up as a plant
hanger. It has rustic, plaited hanging straps and a sturdily wrapped handle.
Made with jute, this piece perfectly complements any interior design scheme
inspired by natural, earthy colors.
Materials:
44.3m (1461/4ft) length of 2mm (3/32in) jute
Glass jar measuring 26cm (101/4in) high with an 8cm (31/8in)
diameter base

Knots and Techniques:

Chinese Crown Knot
Square Knot
Overhand Knot
Wrapped Knot
Plaiting

Preparation:
1. Cut sixteen 2.5m (81/4ft) lengths of 2mm (3/32in) jute
2. Cut one 4m (131/4ft) length of 2mm (3/32in) jute
3. Cut one 30cm (1ft) length of 2mm (3/32in) jute
Method:
1. Divide the sixteen 2.5m (81/4ft) lengths of jute into two groups of eight
cords and lay each group down on a flat surface so that they cross over
at the center.
2. Tie a Chinese crown knot to secure the two groups of cord together.
You now have four bundles of cord radiating out from the Chinese
crown knot center—this is the start of the base of the bottle holder.
3. Bring four cords from one bundle together with four cords from its
adjacent bundle, so you have a group of eight cords. Dropdown 3cm
(11/8in) from the middle of the Chinese crown knot and tie an 8-cord
square knot using four filler cords and two working cords on either
side.
4. Repeat step 3 until you have a total of four 8-cord square knots around
the center point.
5. Alternate cords as in step 3, leave a gap of 3cm (11/8in) and tie another
row of four 8-cord square knots.
6. Continuing to alternate cords and leaving 3cm (11/8in) gaps in between
each row, create six more rows of 8-cord square knots. (Once a cup-
like shape begins to form, which should happen by about the third row,
you can turn your glass jar upside down, place your cords over it and
continue tying.)
7. Bring eight cords from one 8-cord square knot together with eight cords
from the one adjacent to it. Dropdown 3cm (11/8in) and tie a 16-cord
square knot using eight filler cords and four working cords on either
side.
8. Repeat step 7 on the remaining two 8-cord square knots.
9. You now have two 16-cord square knots, one on either side of the
design, and these are the starting points for making the hanging straps.
Working on one of the 16-cord square knots, separate the sixteen cords
into groups of five and six cords, and work a tight plait 30cm (1ft) long.
Plait the cords from the second 16-cord square knot in the same way.
10. To start to make the handle, overlap the ends of the plaited
straps by 5cm (2in), making sure that one sits flat on top of the other.
Gather together all cords and use the 30cm (1ft) length of jute to firmly
tie a double overhand knot at the center of the overlapping straps.
11. Using the remaining 4m (131/4ft) length of jute, tie a wrapped
knot 14cm (51/2in) long to cover the double overhand knot, which
 should be at the center of the wrapped knot. Trim off all excess cords.
HANGING BASKET
Alternating square knots create a beautiful net-like pattern for the basket
enclosure.
Materials:
167m (553ft) length of 2.5mm (1/8in) rope
6cm (23/8in) metal ring
Two 20cm (77/8in) cane rings

Knots and Techniques:

Wrapped Knot
Square Knot
Triple Half Hitch
Alternating Square Knot Pattern
Overhand Knot
Wrapping a Ring
Mounting Techniques

Preparation:
1. Cut forty 4m (131/4ft) lengths of 2.5mm (1/8in) rope
2. Cut three 2m (61/2ft) lengths of 2.5mm (1/8in) rope
3. Cut one 1m (31/4ft) length of 2.5mm (1/8in) rope
Method:
1. Wrap the 6cm (23/8in) metal ring with a 2m (61/2ft) length of rope.
2. Mount the forty 4m (131/8ft) lengths of rope onto the ring by folding
them in half over the inside of the ring.
3. Using one of the 2m (61/2ft) lengths of rope, secure all cords together
directly under the ring using a 3.5cm (13/8in) wrapped knot.
4. Directly under the wrapped knot, separate the cords into eight groups of
ten cords. Each group will now become a sinnet. Repeat steps 5–8 for
each sinnet.
5. Tie four 10-cord square knots using four filler cords and three working
cords on each side.
6. Dropdown 17cm (63/4in) and use the middle six cords to tie one 6-cord
square knot using four filler cords and one working cord on each side.
7. Directly beneath, alternate cords and tie two 5-cord square knots using
three filler cords and one working cord on each side.
8. Directly beneath, use the middle six cords to tie another 6-cord square
knot, using four filler cords and one working cord on each side.
9. Dropdown 17cm (63/4in) and place all of the cords inside the first of
your cane rings. The cane ring sitting horizontally is now to be used as
the holding cord. Tie triple half hitches with each cord onto the cane
ring.
10. Secure the first cane ring by tying a row of twenty square knots
directly beneath the ring.
11. Dropdown 1.5cm (5/8in), alternate cords, and tie another row
of twenty square knots.
12. Continue an alternating square knot pattern for another eight
rows.
13. Place all cords inside the second cane ring. The cane ring
sitting horizontally is now to be used as the holding cord. Tie triple half
hitches with each cord onto the cane ring.
14. Gather the rope firmly and bring it upwards until it is centered
and level with the cane ring. This will create a base for the hanging
basket. Secure with a double overhand knot using the 1m (31/4ft)
length of rope.
15. Using the remaining 2m (61/2ft) length of rope, tie a 3.5cm
(13/8in) wrapped knot over the top of the double overhand knot.
16. Trim the cords to the desired length.
 CHAPTER 6. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS:
JEWELRY

DIY MACRAMÉ BRACELET

Things you’ll need:

4 yards of Chinese 0.5 mm Knotting Cord
A charm or charm or connector
an embroidery needles
Pair of scissors
Flat pliers (optional) for the nose
(Optional) A lighter

Steps:
1. Start by cutting two 30-inch, two 20-inch, and one 10-inch length of the
knotting cord. Pull the string through the ring, place it over the ring, and
pull the remainder of the string via the loop. Fold the 20-inch section in
half. Repeat the step on the other side of the ring. It will anchor these
strands and remain attached.
2. The 30-inch cord is positioned under the two middle strands. Over the
center strands and below the left string, fold the right string. Under the
right and center strands and through the loop on the right side, pull the left
cord.
3. Slide the knot up to the top and yank rigidly.
4. By bending the left cord over the center strands and under the correct
cord, finish the 2nd half of the square knot. Under the left and middle
threads and through the loop on the left side, squeeze the right cord.
5. Pull and repeat the phases firmly-left, right, left, right. Until the desired
length is reached, commence knotting. Keep in mind that about half an
inch will be taken up by the clasp.
6. Thread one of the cords on a needle to complete the knots and sew the
middle of the 3-4 knots along the rear side. Through the dense knots,
pliers will help pull the needle.
7. On the other cord, follow the same move.
8. Trim away the excess until all knotting cords have been sewn together. To
seal it for extra hold, save the offcuts and melt the tips with a lighter. In
the second half of the bracelet, repeat the same specific step.
9. Shape the bracelet into a loop and cross the center strands to create a
moving closure. Using scraps to bind the cords at either end together
temporarily.
10. Take the 10-inch cord under the strands and concentrate it. Start tying
square knots pretty much the same way you completed the bracelet.
11. At about half an inch, halt and sew the knotting cords through the
closure’s backside. Remove the interim ties.
12. The two sets of middle strands are the bracelet’s flexible ties now.
Alter and link each end into knots to fit the wrist. Trim the excess away.
13. Your knotted customizable bracelets are done.
DIY MACRAMÉ RHINESTONE BRACELET

Things you’ll need:

0.8 mm Chinese Knotting Thread 3 Yards
1 large button made of rhinestone
1 tiny rhinestone button
1 needle used for embroidery
Tape
Scissors
Lighter

Steps:
1. Split one 20” string and one 60” string into the knotting cord.
2. Fold in half the short cord and tape the pleat to a working surface. The
long cord must be centered beneath the two middle strings. Consider
folding the right-side cord over the center strings and beneath the left-
side cord.
3. Tug the left cord below the right and center strands and into the knot on
the right thread. Pull firmly and pull the lump up and form a trivial
circle/loop. The loop/circle must be able to wiggle over the tiny
 rhinestone button.
4. Proceed the square knot by bending the left string over the center
strands and under the right string. Squeeze the right string underneath
the left and center strings thru the thread on the left-hand side.
5. Jam firmly and repeat the steps from left to right and again left to right.
At the halfway point, stop knotting.
6. Onto the 2 center strands, connect the large rhinestone button. Continue
knotting. To verify the fit, evaluate the bracelet around the wrist. From
the first to the last knot, the fit must be very close.
7. To complete the bracelet, weave each of the side clamps against a
needle and knit up the center through 2-3 knots across the backside.
Through the tight knots, pliers may help wrench the needle.
8. Then onto the middle strands, attach the small rhinestone button.
Connect the central strands into the same loops around the backside.
9. Snip all 4 strings, leaving about 5 millimeters relaxed. Ignite the edges
and push the melted ends onto the rear side of the bracelet with the end
of the lighter to enclose it.
10. And your bracelet is ready.
11. If the bracelet is a little too fit, you can continuously give it a
quick yank—it will extend out a bit.
DIY SLIDING KNOT BRACELET

Things you’ll need:

Evil eye or charm of Hamsa
Chinese Knotting Thread, 12 inches
Scissor
Lighter

Steps:
1. Connect 4 inches of the cord into one of the charms’ ends. To build a
zig-zag, turn 2 inches of cord back into itself and then again.
2. Over the parallel strings, fold an inch of the tip backward. Coil the
string into the loop three times.
3. Connect the tip into the left loop’s opening.
4. To the right, pull the coil and draw the tip until the knot is firm. By
slipping it toward the center of the charm, check the customizable knot.
It will trim the excess cord later.
5. Thread the cord’s other end into the charm’s opposite side to build the
same zig-zag.
6. Coil the edge three times through all the cords and loop the tip around
the loop.
7. To the right, shift the coil and draw the tip until the knot is secure. Trim
both sides, leaving 2-3 mm or thereabouts.
8. For a lighter, melt the edges.
9. Your bracelet is finished. And you’re safe from the evil eye now.
DIY GOLD TUBE BRACELET

For single gold tube bracelets that are customizable, you’ll need:
A curved 2 mm x 38 mm noodle tube bead
0.5 mm Chinese knotting cord 2 feet
A needle for embroidery
2 beads of spacer

Steps:
1. Begin by cutting two 12-inch pieces of the knotting cord. Thread into
one of the strands with a gold noodle tube bead and bind the ends.
2. And now, the slipping closure is all that's left! Slide the 2nd string over
the overlapping ends, like the macramé bracelet, and start binding
square knots. Fold over the lowest cord with the top cord.
3. And pull the top cord through the loop into a knot under both the
bottom and center alternating strands.
4. Repeat on the right side of the same step.
5. Continue to create knots about 5−6 more.
6. Thread one of the cords on a needle to complete the knots and sew the
middle of the 2−3 knots around the backside. Through the tight knots,
pliers will help relieve the needle.
7. Trim the extra cord away.
8. Into each loop, thread two gold spacer beads and bind the tips into a
knot. Uh, Trim.
 9. You’re done with your customizable and colorful bracelets.
For a gold tube bracelet with a leather wrap, you’ll need:
7-8 curved noodle tube beads 3 mm x 50 mm
1 yard of 1.5 mm cord in leather
2 crimps on the ends of the cord
1 tiny clasp of a spring or lobster
A pair of pliers with a chain nose

Steps:
1. At the end of the cord, put one end of the leather string into the crimp.
To tie the leather cord, grab a pair of chain-nose pliers and pinch the
middle section of the end cap.
2. Thread on beads of 7−8 gold noodle tubes.
3. To gauge the correct size, loop the bracelet across the wrist. On the
second end cap, trim it and crimp it.
4. Open the jump ring attached to the clasp using the pliers and link it to
one of the end caps.
5. Wrap it, close it, and your bracelet is done.
6. Layer and enjoy.
DIY BRAIDED BEAD BRACELET

Things you’ll need:

1.5 yards of a cord of waxed linen
Size 50−70 8 / o Seed Beads
A two-hole 10−13 mm button
Scissor

Steps:
1. The waxed linen cord may be sliced into 26” and 19” sections.
2. Half-fold the longer strand. Place one side of the shorter strand with the
longer strand on both ends. Fold the spare over the top of the folded
component to create two parallel loops.
3. Tie a knot down from the loops for around half an inch. Snip off the
fourth additional strand, leaving 3 equivalent strands similar in length.
4. Begin to braid the threads. Braid in the beads after only an inch or so.
Into the outer left strand, tie a bead.
5. Place the bead against the braid’s base, and cross over the center of the
left strand. Thread the bead onto the right outer string now. Drive it
onto the braid and crossover base.
6. At the base of the braid, keep a finger, keeping the beads in their place,
and keep the braid close. On beads, begin threading until each string is
crossed over.
7. Complete the bracelet by adjusting it against the wrist with another inch
of plaited thread. Connect the knot.
8. Thread on a button of two holes-two strands via one hole and one string
 through the other. With another knot, protect it.
9. Only trim the end.
10. Your bracelets are finished! Try using waxed linen and beads
in varying colors.
CHAPTER 7. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: INDOOR
ITEMS

The perfect way to add Boho flair to your space is through DIY macramé
projects. It often helps you pay less, and best of all, they will make perfect
gifts for your loved ones. No matter what you’re looking for, whether it’s a
personalized gift idea for your mom on Mother’s Day or for your partner on
Valentine’s Day or anniversary, these Macramé projects are always
exceptional for the indoors.
MACRAMÉ WALL AND DOOR HANGINGS
A hung macramé wall is a simple DIY project that will bring a personalized
touch to every space within your house. This tutorial can allow you to build a
wall hanging with several fun designs, including spirals and triangles. Do not
worry about changing it up to make it your own.
Notwithstanding how it sounds, this straightforward project only requires one
or two hours to finish. It always comes together easily, and you will notice
many ways to introduce your theme. The knots that you are going to use for
hanging this macramé wall contain Lark’s Head Knot, Spiral Knot, and
Square Knot. By reading the instructions mentioned here on how to macramé,
you can learn how to tie all those knots.
Requirements
Cotton Macramé Cord (61 m or 200 feet)
Wood Dowel (3/4 “diameter, 24” long)
Scissors

How to Create
The wooden dowel should not be in such exact proportions, so choose any
scale you want in place of the wooden dowel as long as you can
accommodate all the ropes over it. If you choose to give it a more natural
look, a tree branch around the same size may be used.
1. Make your wooden dowel a hanger.
2. A macramé string attached to a wooden dowel with scissors next to it.
3. Cut a three-foot (one meter) length of macramé thread. Add each end of
the cord to the wooden dowel on both sides.
4. Macramé thread sliced into pieces, utilizing a pair of scissors.
5. Split the macramé string into 12 rope pieces, which are 15 feet wide
(4.5 meters).
6. It may seem like a ton of rope, but knots take up more string than you
thought. There is no way to make the rope thicker if you need to, but
taking further is easier than utilizing.
7. Fold one of the macramé cords in two and then tie it to the wooden
dowel utilizing the Lark’s Head Knot. Likewise, add such strings.
8. Take the first four cords and create a spiral stitch to the left (also called
a half-knot sinnet) by making 13 half knots.
9. Utilizing the next package of four ropes to perform another 13, half
knots spiral stitch. Keep operating in 4-cord parties. You should have
six spiral stitches when you finish.
10. Measure about two inches Bottom in spiral stitch from the last
knot. It is where the next knot, the square knot, would be placed.
11. Create a right-facing square tie, utilizing the first four strings.
Go across this row, rendering the correct square knots faced. Do
everything possible so that both are placed horizontally together. You
are going to wind up with six square knots in the band.
12. Then it is time to start decreasing the square knots, and we can
get a “V” knots form.
13. Leave the two cords first, and the two cords last secure. Create
square ties facing each set of four to the right. You will also have a
second row of unknotted two first and two last strings and five square
knots.
14. It does not matter if you spread these out; just hold them for
each row and each other.
15. You must cut out the first four cords for the third section and
the remaining four cords. You are going to have four knots in the
square.
16. Take out six cords at the start for the fourth section and six
cords at the top. You are going to get three knots in the line.
17. In the fifth section, at the top, you can cut out eight cords and,
in the end, eight cords more. Now you should have two knots in the
line.
18. You will cut out ten cords at the start for the sixth and final
section and ten cords at the top. This will leave you with four cords to
make a final knot in the square.
19. Time to bring on some square ties. We will be growing them
this time to shape a triangle, like an upside-Bottom "V."
20. Take out the first eight and last eight cords to the first row of
this segment. You are going to create two knots in the line.
21. Leave out six cords at the beginning and end in the third
section. Within this row, you should have three knots within the line.
22. Take out four cords at the beginning of the fourth section and
four at the top. You are going to have four knots in the square.
23. Take out at the start two cords in the fifth section and the last
 two cords. Now in this row, you should have five knots in the line.
24. Use all the cords to make knots in the last row. With this row,
you should have six knots in the line.
25. Time to put a good trim on your macramé board. Leave some
room beneath the final row (six to eight inches or so). Utilizing the
scissors to the right through the strings.
26. You may keep it as if it is, connect any pins, fray the ends, or
make basic knots overhand as above.
DREAM CATCHER
This surrealistic macramé creation is perfect to create as a treat for somebody
dear to you.
Requirements
Feathers
A 4” brass ring
6 yards of any specific cording kind, 2 mm in size
15 Pony beads

How to Create
1. Attach the brass ring to one edge of the cording.
2. Loop the cording around the chain, ensuring sure to pull firmly after
each loop. To begin the next web row, simply loop the cord around the
first cord and drop. Start looping until the target size is the gap in the
middle.
3. You can attach the beads anywhere in the pattern when creating the
dream catcher. Loop the cord just before inserting the bead and then
move the cord into the bead. The bead is then placed within the
 design’s site.
4. When the site design is growing, you can use the cording to cover the
frame—utilizing a Double Knot to lock one end of the chain. Cover the
ring length with the cording and then connect the ends to be stable.
5. Split a 6-8-inch-long piece of cording. Attach the beads anywhere you
want, and make sure you attach a Double Knot after the last bead.
Move a feather via the beads before snugly placed. Utilizing a Double
Knot to tie the rope to the loop.
6. Utilize an outer sheath of 6-inch cording, attached to the base of the
dream catcher, to mount the finished product.
MACRAMÉ TABLE RUNNER
All you need to learn is three easy knots, and you have a charm layer that
works every season. When you are acquainted with the knots shared here,
you can tailor your table runner to suit your specific table duration or alter it
entirely and build a hanging macramé wall.
Supplies:
12” Holden Multiple
22 strands of 16” cotton rope loops measuring 3 mm
Hooks over the entrance
2m of cotton dowel hanger twine
Scissors

1. Attach cotton twine to either end of your dowel or hang it from your
hooks above the entrance. Fold in half the first 16’ rope loop and build
the head knot of a lark over the dowel.
2. Keep applying the Lark’s Head Knot to each 16’ string of rope until
you have 22 overalls. That will send you 44 functioning strands.
3. Move the outer right rope over the top of all the other ropes (to the left)
and drape the end to the hook at your entrance. This will be the basis
for the next row of knots called a half hitch, which creates a horizontal
row—Utilizing the second rope to attach a single knot across the cord
that you’ve already stretched over so that it’s around 6” below the
dowel.
4. Form a second knot over the base strand utilizing the same thread. It is
considered a semi-hitch knot.
5. Make sure they are clear and correct.
6. Continue from outside for the second, third, and fourth rope and make
another half-hitch knot, so it’s tight, and so on. You are going to start
looking at trends. It is a half-hitch lateral.
7. Keep linking successive knots all the way around in one knot. You do
not want this to be so close that the space at the edges is drawn back.
8. Utilizing the outer four strands from the right again, and build a square
knot around 1.5” below the horizontal knots rows.
9. Avoid the next four strands (five through eight) and Utilizing strands
nine through 12 to form another square knot. Continue to skip four; join
four before you get through all the way.
10. Beginning right again, utilizing the four strands you have
missed (five through eight) and tie a square knot below the dowel
around 3”.
11. Keep binding four-strand missed sets in square knots until you
complete the sequence.
12. Take the two outer strands out to the hand at the top. In phase
seven, utilizing strands three to six to build another square knot about
11” below the horizontal row of knots. Besides, use the next four
strands to construct another square knot over the last square knot,
around 1.5”.
13. Go all the way around, as shown. With the last two lines, you
will not achieve something.
14. Follow measures three through seven to build another series of
horizontal half-hitch knots beginning from the right side again.
15. Utilizing the same base strand of rope beginning from the left
side and build another horizontal half-hitch row of knots around 2.5”
below the previous. In this one, you are going to be operating from left
to right.
16. Beginning on the left hand, build a row of square knots without
missing any strands below the horizontal line of knots, around 1” away.
Instead, construct a second row of square knots by missing the first two
threads on the left before joining a complete row of square knots
together. It is regarded as an alternating square knot. You do not want a
lot of room between those rows, and you can draw them together
 closely as each square knot is applied.
17. Repeat until you have a minimum of about 13 rows of
alternating square knots. This portion is the core of your table runner,
and anything else from this stage should echo what you have already
woven above.
18. Attach another half-hitch horizontal row of knots beginning
from the outer left side and making your way to the center.
19. Utilizing the same base rope to travel bottom around 2.5” to
create another horizontal half-hitch series of knots that travel from right
to left.
20. Skip the outer two rope strands to the right for this segment
and then make a square knot, utilizing strands three to six. Skip strands
from seven to ten, and use strands from 11 to 14 to tie another square
knot. Repeat so for every four strands you missed. Across the left-hand
side, you should find six lines.
21. Skip one and two sections on the left side and bind three to six
strands into a square knot approximately 1.5” below the last set of
square knots. Then miss the next four strands and finish the template
for the square knots second section. It would put you on the correct
side, with six additional threads.
22. Measure 11” from the last row of horizontal ties and create a
square knot utilizing the right side of the outer four lines. Then bind the
next four into a square knot over the last knot, around 1.5”.
23. Repeat straight.
 CHAPTER 8. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS: MORE
INDOOR ITEMS

MACRAMÉ PILLOW

Materials:
Macramé Cord
Scissors
Sewing Machine/Thread (optional)
Pillow cover
Attach dowel or stick tape

Measure to this pillow; you can either start with a pillow cover that you
already have or make a simple pillow cover. But don’t just make it yet—see
first step 5.
Steps:
1. Cut the cords in! To make this pattern, you’ll need 16−12-foot cords.
2. Use reverse-lark head knots to tie all 16 of your cords to your dowel.
3. The pattern for this cover is just 1 alternating square knot in the line.
Leave a little gap between each knot-around half an inch as a reference
point. What’s more, having a bit of space makes the project go much
faster.
4. Create two horizontal rows of (left-to-right, then right-to-left) or double
half-hitch knots until you touch down.
5. Now that we’re done with the pattern cut off the excess from the bottom
but keep a little fringe
6. Now you’re either going to remove your dowel or simply cut it off at
step 5: How can you add this to your pillow cover?
7. Here’s how to attach your macramé pattern to your pillow. Before you
sew it up, if you’re making a cover yourself—you’re essentially going
to line up the pattern to the front of your cover, leaving the cut ends a
little over the top hang.
8. Lay down the pattern over the front and put the back piece on top!
9. Place the back piece over your cover and macramé template-right sides
facing each other—essentially, you make a sandwich here, and the
macramé is called the “meat."
10. Now just patch your pillow cover’s top seam-go over the ropes
too! It takes some degree of finesse, but you can.
11. Shove the macramé pattern within your pillow to stitch the rest
of your cover and stitch the remaining seams as usual.
12. Flip it straight out. Now you should have your macramé
pattern added to the top of your pillow (coming out from inside
between the seams).
13. Take and loop a cord through your pattern.
14. Take the other hand through your pillow on the bottom... do
this many times (crisscross) and knot it!
15. And it is! It’s left your fringe dangling from the edges.
16. Even if the pillow cover is ready-made?
MIRROR WALL HANGING

Materials:
Macramé Cording: 4 mm
Mirrored octagon
2 inches wood ring
Wood beads: 25 mm w/10 mm hole size
Strong scissors.

Steps:
1. Cut 4 pieces of cording macramé into sections of 108 inches (or 3yds).
Cut the strips in half and tie all four of them with a Lark’s Head knot
on the wood loop. Tightly and closely pull the knots. Separate two head
knots from the Lark’s Head knot and begin to tie them into a square
knot. Start tying into the second two Lark’s Head knots, two square
knots. As you start the second knot of the square, loop it through one of
the sides of the other two knots into a wide knot of the square. Fasten 7
square knots on both sides. Break the ends after the knots have been
tied. Two strings per side and four in the center. To secure the frayed
ends, apply tape to the ends of the thread. This will make inserting the
beads simpler. Congratulations. That’s been the toughest part! The
others are easy ties to tie and even get the sides.
2. In each of the 2 side cording lines, apply one bead. Tie a knot on both
 sides under the bead to keep them even. Connect the four cords in the
middle to a simple or (overhand knot) about 1/14 inch below the beads.
Take a cord from the center and add it to the sides of the two cords. Tie
the three on both sides in a knot. Apply the mirror to the end of the
knot. Add one of the three sides to the mirror’s back to hold it steady.
Place clear knots in all 3 side cables at the bottom left and right side of
the mirror. Trim the cords again on all three sides. Return one to the
back of the mirror on either side and add 2 to the front of it on each
side.
3. Flip the mirror over and tie together all the cords. Flip over the mirror
and loosen the knot at the front. Inside the knot, slip the back cords and
straighten the knot. Cutting the cord ends up to around 14 inches. Take
the ends or loose the cord and let them break. Combine the ends of the
cording to fluff ends with a comb. Hang up and have fun!
AMAZING MACRAMÉ CURTAIN

Macramé curtains give your house the feel of that beach house look. You
don’t even have to add any trinkets or shells—but you can, if you want to.
Anyway, here’s a great Macramé Curtain that you can make!
What you need:
Laundry rope (or any kind of rope/cord you want)
Curtain rod
Scissors
Pins
Lighter
Tape

Instructions:
1. Tie four strands together and secure the top knots with pins so they
could hold the structure down.
2. Take the strand on the outer right part and let it cross over to the left
side, employing passing it through the middle. Tightly pull the strings
together and reverse.

3. Repeat crossing the thread over four more times for the thread you now
have in front of you. Take the strand on the outer left and let it pass
through the middle and then take the right and let it cross over the left
side. Repeat as needed and then divide the group of strands to the left
and also to the right. Repeat until you reach the number of rows you
want.
4. You can now apply this to the ropes. Gather the number of ropes you
want—10 to 14 is okay, or whatever fits the rod, with good spacing.
Start knotting at the top of the curtain until you reach your desired
length. You can burn or tape the ends to prevent them from unraveling.
5. Braid the ropes together to give them that dreamy, beachside effect, just
like what you see below.

6. That’s it; you can now use your new curtain!

 CHAPTER 9. MACRAMÉ PROJECTS:
OUTDOOR ITEMS

MACRAMÉ LAWN CHAIRS

Tools and Supplies

Lighter
Scissors
Crochet Hooks
Paracord or Macramé Cord
Metal Lawn Chair

Method
1. Use a pair of scissors to remove your chair’s webbing. You may
require a screwdriver as well if the webbing on your chair has been
secured using screws.
2. Create a double knot on the base of your chair.
3. Bring your cord up, under the bar in the middle, then up over your
frame at the top.
4. Wrap your cord, then loop it from the front part of your chair back
 and forth, pull it up to the top of your chair’s back. Rework the steps
to wrap your cord again from the bottom to the top.
5. To create a pattern on your chair, rework the same steps as you did
when facing vertically; however, as opposed to last time, weave your
macramé cord (or paracord) horizontally.
6. Form a knot at the tip once you are done weaving. Using a lighter,
burn off the strand that is left hanging.
MACRAMÉ OUTDOOR PLANTER

Tools and Supplies

Herb Plants
Planter Pot
Level
Painter’s Tape
Screws
Drill
Scissors
Hose Clamps
Copper pipe
Masonry Line
Curtain Rod Brackets (2)

Method
1. Install the pipe made of copper. Get a copper pipe cut to your
preferred length from your local hardware. Form a straight line
against your wall using painter’s tape and a level. For a field that is
level hanging, use hanging brackets.
2. Use a masonry line that has been cut. Any heavy strand will get the
job done; however, the masonry line is available in a variety of
colors. Copper looks great with a touch of neon pink or yellow. Cut
out six-string strands, ensuring that every piece is thrice your pots’
length.
3. Recalibrate your hose clamp. Make the hose clamp tight around your
pot’s top using a screwdriver. You need to make sure that the fit is
snug. Remove it from the pot when it is the correct size, then place it
on a flat surface.
4. Begin to create the knots. Take one of your strands and fold it into
equal parts. At your mid-point, create a loop below your hose clamp,
then pull both tails through. Repeat this step with the remaining
strings. Evenly space 6 strands around your clamp. Get two strands
that are on opposite sides, then wrap them into a knot approximately
1½” below. Redo with each of your strands. Use the right and left
strings to keep creating 1 ½” knots until you achieve your required
length for the pot. You may slide the pot inside to check how many
extra knot rows you have to make. When you hold up your hose
clamp, it should resemble a basketball hoop.
5. Plant your herbs. Pour potting soil into your pot around the herb roots
ensuring that you do not overfill. Try faux plants or succulents if you
normally have a lot on your plate. Position your hose clamp around
your pot, then form a knot at the base. Clip off the strands at the
bottom as necessary; make it as short or as long as you want.
6. Hang the planter. Cut out 3 masonry line strands, then create knots in
that length to add a little detail. You will need 2 of these. Loop the
strand that is knotted below the hose clamp, then knot it on the pipe
made of copper. Redo on the other side. You may find that your
planter is somewhat tipsy, in which case simply adjust it so that the
strands are equal on the right and left side and ensure that at least the
length is exact.
MACRAMÉ FRINGE UMBRELLA

Supplies
Sewing thread – in the or same or similar color as your umbrella
Sewing needle
Scissors
Macramé cotton cord
Outdoor umbrella

Method
Note: These steps are for making fringe for one section of the outdoor
umbrella. Depending on the number of umbrella poles/sections, you will need
to redo everything as many times as necessary.
1. Cut out the cord pieces: Cut out a strand of the cord to be a bit longer
than a section of the umbrella. Secure the line to the two ends of your
umbrella ribs
2. Cut out eighteen strands of macramé cord: Measure, then cut eighteen
strands that are four feet in length, then connect them to the strand
that is already attached to the umbrella.
3. Create square knots: Use square knots to link the strands of the
macramé cord. Rework this step for 3 rows.
4. Clip off the extra pieces: Remove the curls from the fringes that are
twisted. If your cord is not twisted, you are done.
MACRAMÉ PLACEMAT
Tools and Supplies
One pair of sharp scissors
One comb
Metal clothes hanger
3-4mm of 20 x 3m thick cotton string

Method
1. Use a lark’s head knot to mount twenty strings that are 3m in length
onto a metal hanger. Leave out a space of two to three mm between
your knots.

2. Leaving out a distance of five centimeters under your knots, grab four
strands, then use them to create a square knot beginning from the left
side. Use the four strands that follow to create another SK. Proceed
until you achieve one row of ten SKs.
3. Create a row of 9 square knots. Beginning from your left side, grab
strands three and four from the initial knot, then strands 2 and 1 from
the one adjacent to it to create a new square knot. Proceed through the
length of your row. Repeat steps two and three until you get a total of
5 square knot rows (the final row is going to have ten).
4. Leaving out a space of two to three centimeters, create a fresh row of
9 SKs. Do another row of ten square knots after leaving out a two-to-
three-centimeter space.

5. Repeat step four until you get a total of twelve rows, completing with
one that has ten knots.
6. Create a row of ten, nine, ten, nine, and ten square knots minus any
spaces in between your rows to complete the design. Remove the
placemat from your hanger by clipping the lark’s head knot.
7. Fold the placemat into two over the hanger, then clip the strands on
either end to your preferred length, ensuring that they are all even. To
finish, make a soft feathery fringe by combing the ends.
MACRAMÉ HANGING LANTERN JARS
Tools and Supplies
Scissors
Sticky tape
Candles – for safety purposes, LED is best
Jar
String or twine

Method
1. Cut out a piece of twine that is approximately eight times the
intended length. Cut out eight more twine pieces with a similar
length.
2. Separate your twine pieces into two sets of 4 lengths, then spread
them out, crossing each other at the middle.

3. Thread the top of the lengths that are vertical below the horizontal
ones.
4. Cross the end on the right side of the horizontal below the vertical
lengths. Cross it beyond their top to make the shape of ‘S’.
5. Grab the horizontal pieces of the lengths to the left, then pass them
through the loop to your right. Pull all the ends of the strands one set
at a go until you form a knot.
6. Turn to the upright side, then separate your twine strands into pairs.
Knot each pair at approximately the distance from the edge to the
middle of the jar.

7. Turn your jar over once more upside down, then secure your lanyard
knot to the middle of the base of your jar using tape. Tie the length of
your right side from one of the pairs with the length on your left side
from the pair adjacent to it, then repeat all around. Repeat down the
length of your jar at intervals that are even until you get to the top.
8. Insert your candle then, create a knot from all your strands, ensuring
that you leave out enough space for your jar to hang.
 CHAPTER 10. MORE MACRAMÉ PROJECTS

LANTERN

What You Need

Twenty-two (22) cords with a length of six feet per cord
Scissors
Bulb cage

Instructions
Entwine the cords to the top of the cage using the lark’s head knotting
method. Take four nearest cords and make a square knot with them. Take the
next and do the same until you are done with the first row. For the second,
take two cords, each from two different sides, and make a square knot with
them. Continue with this method until you have the whole body of the cage
covered with the square knots. The knots should not be so close; they should
be spaced out while they are being worked on. Knot the last cords to the base
of the cage and adjust your work. Take the pair of scissors and cut out the
extra strands, leaving none with the work. This is how to make a macramé
pendant lantern.
LAMP WIRE

To make a macramé lamp wire, you need to measure the length of the cord
you want to work on to determine the length of cord you will use. Cut out
your cord and fold it into two. Place it around the cord just before the lamp
holder. Take the left side of the cord over to the right and take the right under
the cord. Pull the two cords to come out through the loops. To make it easier
for you, fold the left cord over your four fingers to have a big fold. Do the
same with the other cord. Take the left one over and the right one under, and
pull each side. Do this again, and you will notice that the pattern will be
twisting. Carry on with the pattern until you get to the end of the cable. For
the last knot, make a double half hitch knot and cut off the remaining cords
with your pair of scissors.
SUNSCREEN MACRAMÉ HOLDER
What You Need
Cord.
Forklift.
Sunscreen.
Thin, empty flask.
Bookmark.
Clippers.
Flash candle.

Instructions
1. Cut five-string bits, about 20” long.
2. Fold in half and tie the center of one big sweater. Tape down the knot to
 stay in place.
3. Divide the string into five pairs and knot each couple down to around
1”. Take another 1” down, take one line, and knot it from the pair next
to it with a loop.

4. Continue to cover the length of the bottle for about four rows of knots.
Slide your bottle in to test the fit and the appropriate number of knots.
For ease of use, I put the bottle in the cap side downwards.
5. If the fit is right, tie the first knot to keep the bottle in place with all the
threads.
6. Place each string over a candle overheat to melt the ends and avoid
fraying
7. Add a carabiner (or key ring) to the top knot to finish off and connect to
your pocket.
8. The travel size bottle last year was enough for us all summer, but you
can replenish it as desired. You don't need to dig in your pocket now
anytime you need a drop of sunscreen.
YARN GARLAND

What You Need

Yarns of different colors
Adhesive tape
Scissors
Macramé board

Instructions
To get started, cut out a long yarn, cut out six (6) yarns from each one of the
colored yarn bundles, and arrange them according to their colors on your
board. Do make sure the yarns you cut are of the same length. Place the long
yarn horizontally on your board and entwine the yarns to the long one using
the lark’s head knotting method. From the rear at the left-hand side, leave the
first yarn, take the second and third yarns and make a square knot with them.
Make the same pattern of knotting with the fourth and fifth; repeat this until
you get to the end of the yarn to complete the first stage. For the second row,
take the first yarn you left earlier and square knot it with the second. Repeat
this pattern until you get the second row completed. For the third, leave the
first yarn and entwine the second and third; do the same as you did in the first
row. Complete the third row, and your work is ready to decorate your home.
Now, cut out a few inches of the adhesive tape and stick the macramé yarn
garland to the designated part of the wall for it.
BUNTING

What You Need

Long rope
Six cords of about ten inches for each bunting
Scissors
Adhesive tape
Macramé board

Instructions
Depending on the number of buntings you want to make, cut out that number
by six. Arrange your cords on your board and get to work. Entwine the eight
cords to the long rope using the lark’s head knotting method. Take the first
four cords from the rear at the left-hand side and entwine them using the
square knotting method. Make the same knot with the rest of the cords to get
a total of three square knots on that row.
For the second row, leave the first two cords from the left and entwine the
nearest four using the same knotting pattern. Entwine the other two nearest
cords, too, leaving the last two cords undone.
For the third and last row, leave the first four cords from both sides and
entwine the four in the middle like the others. Now, divide the cords into two
parts to have six cords on each side. Take the first two cords from the left,
make a double half hitch knot with them, and go with diagonal double half
hitch knots until you are done with that half.
Do the same on the other side (right-hand side). From each half, take two
cords in the middle and make a square knot with them. With your pair of
scissors, carefully and neatly trim the strands so they will be shaped to have a
pointed end. Using this same pattern, make other buntings and hang them.
This is a detailed step-by-step method of making a simple macramé bunting.
MINI MACRAMÉ SUCCULENT EGG DECORATIONS

What You Need

Ten (10) long cords
Ring
 Tape measure
Scissors
A vase containing the succulent plant itself

Instructions
Out of the ten cords, pass eight cords through the ring and make sure they are
of equal sizes before you begin with the actual work. When the cords pass
through the ring, you now have sixteen (16) cords. Take another cord and tie
the cords with it carefully and neatly. This is to hold the cords in place and
also to give the work an aesthetic look. When this is done, divide the cords
into four to have four cords on each side. Take the four cords and make two
right half square knots (spiral knots). The length of the spiral knots you just
made should be about six (6) inches. Make other sets to get to this level and
then let the cords go free without any pattern on it for another length of six
inches. Make an ocean plait knot here and let the cords go free again for
another six inches.
This time, make the spiral knots go through the left (two left half square
knots) and then measure the just concluded knots to make it be six inches
long. Do this same thing with the other cords so you will get them to this
level. Take two cords from one knot and another two cords from another
knot, make a square knot with them and repeat the same with the other cords.
The distance from the spiral knots to the first square knot should be six
inches. For the second row, take two cords from one knot, take another two
cords from another knot and make a square knot with the cords. On the
opposite side of it, take two cords from one knot, take another two cords from
another knot and make a square knot. The distance between the first knot and
the second should be four inches. At this point, carefully arrange the cords
underneath the vase; take another cord (the tenth one), and tie the cords with
it carefully and neatly. Measure out six inches from the cords and cut off the
extra strands.
BOHO CHRISTMAS TREE

Supplies
A few branches or twigs from the garden
Wire of jewelry or other ornamental parts
A brush
Fishing line hanging

Instructions
Break the yarn into 7−8 inches sections. Take two threads, and fold half of
them as a loop. Place a loop under a twig.
Take the looped end of the other beam and move the ends of the beam under
the twig into the loop. Connect the thread under the twig at the ends of the
rope.
Once enough knotted strands are inserted, separate the threads with a brush or
comb. The “almost finished” tree is a little week, so you have to stabilize it
with some starch.
Cut them into a triangle and adorn them with small baubles or beads when
the boho trees are high. I just made a little flower star joystick.
It takes about 10 minutes for a whole bunch to produce. I think they would
make perfect presents or on your Christmas tree, you could hang them.
TASSELS
Materials needed:
Small wood rings—if you have that lying around, you can also
bend some wire into a circle
Macramé cord—I was looking for chunkier tassels, so I picked a 5
mm cord. Use a thinner cord if you want something smoother and
tinier
Scissors
Wire brush for fringe

Macramé tassel hanging from cabinet knob

1. A spiral knot is just like a square knot, but if that makes sense, you just
work one side or a half square knot. You don’t complete a whole knot
in the square. Only repeat a sequence of these half-square knots, and
you’ll start spiraling your cording.
2. The measures are broken down here. Cut two pieces of cords in length,
each 48.
3. Using Lark’s Head Knots to fasten your cords to the wood frame.
4. You will have four cords in there. Make your spiral knots and go down
until you’ve got a little cord left. That’s what’s forming our fringe.
5. Unravel the cords and brush them to form a fringe. Use your scissors to
put the fringe on even.
6. Take a piece of twine from bakers and thread a loop around a ring of
wood.
7. You’re done! These tassels do not take long to make, so this year I’ve
made a bunch to put on our tree. My finished tassels each measure
about 6 inches.
8. Showing a series of macramé spiral knots with fringe, you can still buy
colored cording if you want different colors. You can also interweave
some beads for a nice effect in there. I tried to do this, but the wood
beads ran out!
 CHAPTER 11. POINTS TO REMEMBER AND
FAQS

Macramé’s retro craftsmanship project has many surprising components and

stunning modifications. You ought to adopt the proper strategies and
procedures to practice this art or hone your talents.
For an outdoor and indoor product or item, there are several ways to start a
project. Here are some great ideas that will help you bring out the best in
your art. Whatever you want to do.
PRACTICE THE SKILL
Practice your abilities to prevent needless failures down the path before you
begin to make anything. Remember, having the project going will cost you
several bucks. It contains the costs you may need for equipment and
accessories.
So, you can begin with a smaller practice project to improve your abilities for
a bigger one instead of spending these efforts on failed attempts. It can
familiarize you with numerous knots as well as designs.
INVEST IN THE FIBER OF HIGH-QUALITY
The fiber’s choice is by far the most important phase in the process before
beginning your project. Choose the proper fiber form that may contain cords,
strings, yarn, or ropes. In this range, the fiber material means the most.
Cotton, cotton, jute, hemp, nylon, etc., are the options used.
For beginner-level designs, experts often consider utilizing cotton cords with
just a diameter of 3 mm. To help the project, it is not only versatile and
adjustable but also gentle and durable. Cotton ropes are also available in two
varieties, braided and plaited ropes. For your project, select the thread that
fits.
MAINTAIN SUFFICIENT TENSION
You will become a specialist in the handling of a macramé project with the
necessary experience. Here, the force used to strengthen the knots will mainly
impact the final performance. It may even spoil other elements’ consistency.
So, for consistent knotting, it makes much more sense to perform the proper
amount of stress you like. If the knots in areas seem shoddy, you can need to
find the appropriate combination between tightening them and loosening
them.
SELECT EASY PATTERNS
Start with a basic pattern to build your masterpiece, whether working on a
starter or middle-level design. It may be a plain square knot or a square knot
that alternates.
There are simple, easy ways to make patterns. In these models, you will learn
to maintain uniformity. It would be best if you also used the independent
boards or anchoring strategies to hold the work-in-progress stable in place.
USING THE RIGHT ROPE AMOUNT
The number of ropes you require is 5−6 times the completed item’s total
length. Still hold the tip of an additional cord length at the bottom of the thing
to create fringes and other decorative accents. You do not want a short rope,
as it will thoroughly spoil your project.
Even attaching ropes, later on, is tough. Around the same moment, though,
there's still no reason to waste the remaining strings. You may do smaller
projects for the shorter cords, such as jewelry, bookmarks, or key chains.
FAQS
Can macramé be washed?
YES. Macramé is very stable and does not readily fall apart. In a tiny garment
bag, it can be a machine, washed at 86ºF. Only hang to dry.
Can you use yarn to macramé?
YES. It’s possible to use yarn. You can realize that only the scale of
macramé knots would be as wide as the thread or substance you are using.
The smaller your choice of string, yarn, or cord, the smaller the knots would
be. The loops would not be very clear if the thread is too thin. Instead of a
bigger project like the wall hanging, yarn may be perfectly adjusted to the
micro-macramé project to be used in jewelry making, for example.
Can you macramé with jute?
YES. Macramé artists used jute and hemp popularly, but the lack of
consumer demand led to nylon and the satin rayon macramé cords and other
human-made fibers. Nylon cords or cotton are preferred for beginners
because, in the event of an error, they are simple to unravel.
How to choose what sort of macramé cord to utilized for our
project?
When choosing your content, there are several things to consider. There’s
always something apparent to consider availability and cost. But with your
idea, you will also want to understand the strength of the content. For
example, if you want to hang a vine, you want to use a stronger rope, such as
those made of jute, ribbon, leather, nylon, or cotton.
Furthermore, you should consider a cord’s stiffness. You would want to use
shorter, more lightweight cords for jewelry, such as a cotton embroidery cord
that is very smooth and flexible. When creating an outdoor project, you may
want to use a sturdy and long-lasting polypropylene chain, either the outdoor
plant keeper or an outdoor hammock.
What size cord should we use?
You would want to select the thickness of 4.0 mm or more for the larger
decorations like the wall hangings or the plant holders, depending on the
project. You can use a cord shorter than 2.0 mm in diameter for the smaller
micro- macramé designs, such as bracelets and necklaces.
How much cord do we need for macramé?
The cords you will use for knotting would need to be between 5 to 6 times
the length of the completed one. The cords that are your “core” cords used for
the form but that are not necessarily knotted may just need to be around twice
the final length. For having a fringe or the other decorative attachments at the
ends, note to leave additional cord length. And rather than too little, it’s better
to have much rope. At the top, you can still trim lengthy bits.
How do we keep our knots looking uniform?
The easiest way to ensure that the knots are uniform, to make certain that the
friction on your cords is kept equally and that every knot lines up straight,
vertically, horizontally, and diagonally on both sides. You would want to
check and knot, particularly when you are only learning, confirm that its lines
with the proceeding knot edges are strong and that the loops are even. The
only way to make sure that the project is successful is to protect the project.
You'll like to hang them from the clothes rack or a safe hook for larger
ventures. Ideally, you can hang from two points on the project so that the
project does not rock back and forth. You'll like to make a macramé board for
smaller projects like jewelry.
What is the macramé board?
The macramé board is a location where you protect your knitting project.
This can be created from several different materials, but you essentially want
to make a firm surface where you can insert pins. A corkboard, a sheet of
polyurethane, or the two pieces of the cardboard bound together may be used.
Without poking out the other side, the board should be around 12 inches
square and thick to put a T pin or the corsage pin in.
Why is macramé getting back?
Macramé was popular with the hippie movement back in the 1970s, but as a
part of the latest tribal and the Boho (Bohemian) style trends in the home
decor, it has moved back into fashion.
Where did macramé originate?
Macramé is believed to derive from the Arabic term migramah, meaning
fringe, which corresponds to the custom of the 13th century used by Arab
weavers for creating decorating the fringes on the camels and the horses to
keep animals safe from the flies.
It can also come from a Turkish word for napkin or towel, meaning
"makrama." Macramé was used as a means to protect the loomed fabrics'
lower edges. Macramé’s first known uses occurred in Babylonians and
Assyrians' decorative carvings.
Macramé was most common in the Victorian period, where most homes were
decorated with this art in products such as bedspreads, tablecloths, and
curtains. Queen Mary also taught her ladies-in-waiting macramé in the 17th
century. In the 19th century, macramé was also a favorite pastime of
the British and the American sailors who made tiny crafts that they either
sold or exchanged in port.
 CHAPTER 12. MACRAMÉ BASIC
TERMINOLOGIES
Alternating: This is where you tie a knot using one cord then
swap to a different cord to form the exact knot.
Alternating cord: Forming a new set of cords by taking half of
the cords from the adjacent knots that were previously tied and
then tying a new knot, laying below and between where the cords
originated.
ASK: This is an abbreviation for the alternating square knot.
Band: This is a length of macramé that is wide and flat.
Bar: A bar is a series of knot which form a raised area in a design.
Bars can be created with half hitch knots and run horizontally,
vertically, or diagonally across a piece of macramé artwork.
BH: This is an abbreviated form of a buttonhole. It is created by
using vertical larks to produce loops used to fasten and join pieces.
Bight: A bight is a narrow section of a cord that is folded. It is
mostly pushed through other parts of a knot.
Body: This is the main section of the project or design you are
working on.
Braid: This can also be called a plait. It is created by crossing 3–4
cords such that they weave themselves around each other.
Braided cord: A type of cord consisting of several thinner pieces
of cord woven together. Twisted cords tend to be more durable
than twisted cords.
Bundles: A series of cords that have been stored.
Button knot: A button knot is a knot that is round and tight
Chinese macramé: These are knotted designs that originated in
China and other Asian countries.
Crown knot: This is a decorative knot, also known as Shamrock
Knot or the Chinese flower since it looks like a flower when
finished.
Combination knot: This is achieved through the combination of
two knots that form a new knot or design.
Cord: A cord is any material or fiber used to create macramé
projects.
Cord knotting: The cord used in a design to tie the knots.
Core: Any cord which runs through the center of the project while
still knotted around it is called a core. They can also be fillers or
central cords.
Crook: The curved section of a loop of cord.
Diagonal: This refers to a row of knots that run from the upper left
to the lower right or in a reversed manner. Diagonal knots are
mostly used with half hitch knots in macramé designs.
Diameter: This refers to the width of a cord measured in
millimeters.
DDH: Double half hitch. This term is used to signify two half-
hitch knots created side by side.
Fillers: These cords usually stay at the center of a design or piece
of macramé construction. They are knotted around the center of
the design. They could be also be called core cords.
Findings: These are more of a fastening than actual cords. Their
function in the design is to create closures, attachments, and other
elements that can serve as decorations. Examples of items used as
findings are ear wires and clasps.
Finishing knot: This knot is tied to secure ends of a cord to
prevent them from being unraveled.
Fringe: These are the length of cord ends that are knitted but left
hanging.
Fusion knots: This is another term used to denote combination
knots.
Gusset: This is used when designing 3D projects such as bags and
hangers.
Hitch: A hitch is a knot used to attach cords to other items.
Horizontal design: This is used to connote a design made from
one side to another
Interlace: An interlace is a pattern where cords are mixed to
create links between various areas of the design.
Inverted: Upside down.
Knot button: A tight, round decorative knot.
Knotting/working cord: Refers to the cord that you are using at
the moment for tying your knots.
Knotting cord: These are cords used to tie together knots used in
a design.
LH: Knot of the head of larks.
Loop: This is a circular or oval-shaped space formed when two
parts of a cord are passed over each other.
Micro-Macramé: Any macramé project or design made with
small diameter materials can be called a micro macramé. The
materials used mostly fall within the range of two diameters.
Mount: These are materials in the form of rings or frames which
are used as part of the macramé design. You may also decide to
use wooden handles to hang your cords when you begin designing.
The wooden handles serve as your mount.
Natural: This is used to refer to cords and materials made from
plants, wood, or any form of natural source, which can include
hemp and cotton.
Netting: Any pattern of knots that at the end will have open spaces
in between is a net. This pattern can be used to create bags and
hangers.
OH: This is an abbreviation, which means Overhand Knot.
Picot: These are loops that form in the design viewpoints. You
will see them more when the design is still in its early phases.
Plait: Cords are plated in an alternating pattern by crossing three
or more, also referred to as a braid.
Scallops: These are loops of knots created at the edges of
macramé designs.
Segment: A segment can be a specific area of a cord, knot, or
design.
Sennit: This term refers to identical knots tied in a chain-like
manner from one to another; some call it sinnets.
Seniti: This term, also known as a sonnet, is a single chain of
identical knots.
Standing end: This is the end of a cord that has been secured by a
macramé board or any other surface which isn't used in the
construction of the knot.
SK (Square Knot): This knot is very common and is created by
tying 2 cords over other cords. These cords can either be single or
multiple.
Stitch: This is used at the early crafting stages of a knot to replace
it until it has been fully knotted
Synthetic: These are fibers made from chemical processes, which
include polypropylene and nylon.
Vertical: From top to bottom to top.
Vintage: A pattern, knot, or technique popular in or earlier in the
early 1900s. Some vintage knots and patterns are still being used
unchanged in macramé today, although others have evolved or
disappeared.
Weaving: Weaving cords means placing them under each other or
over each other.
Working cord: Another term used to knot cord. The cord with
which you are currently working.
 CONCLUSION

As we end this book, I would like to share the most common mistakes in
doing macramé projects and how to fix them. They are as follows:
ERROR 1: WHEN TYING A KNOT, DOING IT IN A
SLOPPY WAY
How to Fix:
1. Hold the cord under the 6-inch mark (junction) with your left hand and
the cord end facing upward on top of your right hand.
2. Bend both hands inward, making sure the cords are at the same level
and are under pressure before tying the knot, as shown in the picture.
3. Pull on both ends of the cord to tighten the knot before cutting off the
excess part of both cords.
ERROR 2: NOT MAKING THE CORD LONGER WHEN
MAKING A KNOT
How to Fix:
1. Keep tension on the knot, 1−2 inches higher than the knot itself.
2. Pull on both ends of the cord to pull it in; this will reduce any stress
caused by the knot, resulting in more durability for your cord and
fastening knots well.
ERROR 3: NOT USING ENOUGH TENSION WHILE
TYING KNOTS AND CORDS TOGETHER
How to Fix:
1. When tying a new cord to an existing rope, tighten it under pressure,
don’t let it flop around loosely.
2. When adding another loop of cord to an existing rope, make sure that
you pull fairly hard on all ends of both cords before joining them
together.
3. When adding one or more cords to an existing cord, regulate the
pressure so that both cords are under equal tension at all times.
ERROR 4: NOT USING THE RIGHT TYPE OF KNOT FOR
A CERTAIN MACRAMÉ PROJECT
How to Fix:
1. Using a Granny knot for decorative purposes only and not for fastening
rope together.
2. Using a Lark’s Head knot for an 8-in-1 or 6-in-1 when you should have
used an Overhand knot.
3. Using an Overhand knot when you should have used an Overhand Loop
Knot.
4. And many others too...
HOW CAN YOU PREVENT MAKING MACRAMÉ
MISTAKES?
Read and understand the instructions carefully before starting a
project.
IMPORTANT: Do all the knots slowly and carefully, don’t be in a
hurry or just “wing it.”
Be enduring with yourself; this is not some kind of race, so take
your time to do things properly and neatly.
Similarly, it helps if you have somebody who is experienced in
macramé nearby to assist whenever you get stuck in doing a
certain knot or technique.
Lastly, is to keep a positive attitude in doing projects. Any time
you find yourself getting frustrated with how a project is going,
stop, walk away and take a break from it. You can at all times
come back to it later and start again when you’re calm again.
Remember, this is not something that you finish overnight, nor
should you pressure yourself into finishing it as fast as possible
since the result will be more satisfying when done properly and
neatly.

Thank you for reading this book, and I hope you enjoy doing macramé!
Good Luck with Your Macramé Projects!