ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS

Issue No. 23, April 2018

With release of the Asian Alpine E-News Issue No. 23 begins publishing
chapters of the new edition of the Guidebook "Mountaineering areas of
Kyrgyzstan”
The guide provides an overview and brief description (characteristics of
areas, location, seasons, climate, climbing history, camps and bases,
entrances and approaches, climbing opportunities) as well as well-developed
mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan, and rarely visited and promising areas.
There are described opportunities and recommendations on the organization,
logistics of mountaineering expeditions, rescue operations, communications
and formalities.
The guide will be useful for those who are going to climb to Kyrgyzstan
or choose new areas of the world for climbing.
Author Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guide, President
of the Kyrgyz Mountain guides Association and the Kyrgyz Alpine Club,
engaged in Mountaineering for more than 50 years. He has repeatedly
visited all the areas described by him. In this issue the following three
articles are delivered. The other articles will follow in succession.

CONTENTS

Kuiluu Range of Tien-Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan Page 2～11

Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area

(Ala-Archа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan) Page12~38

Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Short Description and photo exposition of the route and tactics of
ascending the Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya summit Page39~66
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 Vladimir Komissarov, Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams

Kuiluu Range of Tien-Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan.

Pic. 1. Orographic map of Kuiluu Range.

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 The Range (Pic. 1) is located in Issyk-Kul region from the Southern side of Terskey Alatoo
Range between the rivers: Kuiluu River – from the North, Uchkul River – from the South, Sarujaz
River from the East and Irtash River – from the West. Range stretches for almost 50 km north-
east.

The history of the region exploration.

The region exploration has proceeded in two stages. First stage is the Soviet period (term
until 1991) when all ascents had been done to the highest summit of Constitucia Peak and
nearest summits. The region exploring started in 1936 by expedition of A. Letavet when
location of the highest peak of the range has been defined. The first ascent to the highest point
of the range was done by the group of climbers led by I. Cherepov in the frame of A. Letavet
second expedition in 1937. The summit was called Stalinskaya Constitucia Peak. This peak
was renamed to Sovetskaya Constitucia Peak in 70s-80s. It calls Constitucia Peak nowadays.
Ascent to the neighboring summit named Karpinski Peak (5025) was done at that time.
One more climbing expedition led by B. Gavrilov was arranged in 1956. They extended rotes to
six summits of the area, including Obruchev Peak (5203). Two more expeditions were
arranged in 1971 and 1977. Motor road from Saryjaz village to the northern part of Kuiluu
Range and further to the east and south-east operated in Soviet time. The region exploring
has proceeded from these directions.
The second stage started in postsoviet time. Climbing expeditions were arranged to the
unclimbed mountain areas which were easy for approach. It is Northern part of Kuiluu Range
(find below). Extensive geological monitoring activities took place in 80s of last century on the
upper Kuiluu River. The road was built up to highest points of this gorge.
Mountaineering expedition of International School of Mountaineering (ISM) under the
leadership of Pat Littlejohn initiated new stage of the region exploration in Karator Gorge in
2000 y. There were about 10 international expeditions from this time in Kuiluu Range
(Karator and Bardytor Gorges)
The highest altitude of Kuiluu Range is Constitucia Peak, 5281m, relief is more various
than the relief of neighboring Ak-Shirak Range and exceed of heights here is up to 1100
meters. There are a lot of rock walls and high steps of icefall among numerous of glacier
circuses. The most summits are still virgin here and there are a lot of opportunities for first
ascents and new routes. Routes are as easy as well medium and high difficulty level. Rocks are
mainly formed by metamorphic and ejecta materials. Destroyed and solid rocks are here.
There are three parts of Kuiluu Range which are different for approach and in
exploration: North, South-East and South-West regions. North, South-East regions are
available by cross-country vehicle from Karakol town via Chon-Ashu Pass (3622m) along the
mountain road.

Northern Region is the north slopes of Kuiluu Range located along Kuiluu River. The
west part of the area is available by road goes along the left bank of the river. Left bank turn-
off is located at the 6th km of the road from the confluence of the river Ottuk to Saryjaz River,
downstream. The road goes up to Karator Gorge which is available by vehicle through Kuiluu
River in summer time. It is easy to find good place to set up base camp here. It is necessary to
cross two rivers on the way: Molo River (10 km far from the start point of the road) and
Sarychat River (18 km). It is possible wade the river only early in the morning in summer
time when the water level in the river is still low and only by the cross country vehicle,
truckbus. All-the-year-round nomad’s camp is located in Ashutor Gorge, 500 meters up from
the end of the road. It is possible to hire horses, buy fresh dairy products and meat there. The
most comfortable places to set up base camp are located in a mouth of Karator and Bardytor
Rivers. More than 10 climbing expeditions visited Kuiluu upper from 2000 year. Despite
numerous of expeditions there are still a lot of unclimbed peaks in the region. Some unclimbed

2
peaks of Bardytor Glacier you can find on the pictures. Approach way from base camps to
upper of Karator, Bardytor and Ashutor Gorges takes 5-7 hours. Ascents in this region have
been done to the easy approach summits only, routes to the summits are also easy.
The road to the eastern part of northern slopes of Kuiluu Range goes along the right side
of Kuilu River. The road starts from the border post located at the right bank of Kuilu River in
the point of its confluence to Saryjaz River.
Northern region is the easiest for approach and the most often visited region of Kuuilu
Range.

South-East Region is located in the basins of Big Taldysu and Small Taldysu Rivers and
Terekty River. The region could be reachable by walking along Big and Small Taldysu Rivers
from the place of its confluence to Saryjaz River, up to Saryjaz village. Approach takes 5-6
hours from the mouth to the upper of the rivers.
The area of Taldysuu Rivers is rear visited by climbers. Terekty River basin is also a
part of South-East sub region. The road leaded directly there was built by geologists in 70s-
80s of last century and was destroyed by the end of 80s. The highest point of the range,
Constitucia Peak is located exactly here. There are several routes to the summit.

South-West Region takes place at the south-western and western slopes of Kuiluu Range,
along Uchkul and Irtash Rivers. Land transfer to this region is impossible at present time.
Path goes from the north-western side through Barscoon Gorge to upper of Arabel River and
further along Kumtor, Sarychat Rivers and from the left side of Irtash River to Western
Kuiluu River. Vehicle may deliver only to the upper of Sarychat River and further two days of
walking approach to the climbing area is required. Walking path starts from the south-
western side, Barscoon Gorge through Suek pass to Karasay village and further to
Uchkoshkon village walking approach takes two days including hard crossing of Uchkul River.
The road from south-eastern side along Uchkol River existed in 70s of last century. It was
fully destroyed and washed up at present. South-West region is one of the most difficult to
access climbing area of Kyrgyzstan and the single way to reach this region is helicopter
delivery.
Soth-West region is almost fully included in the area of Sarychat-Ertashski Reserve,
visit permit is required. Permit can be obtained in Reserve directorate located in Barscoon
village (South side of Issyk-Kul Lake).

Kuilu Range List of climbed summits and routes, Kyrgyzstan / Таблица пройденных вершин
и маршрутов хребта Куйлю Кыргызстан
Route # Peak name, First climbing team lieder, route Grade Year of
№ мар- altitude by meters Лидер группы совершившей первое /Кат. ascent /Год
шрута / Название прохождение, маршрут трудн. восхождени
/ вершины, высота я/
в метрах
6.1 4161 Viktor Saunders 2000
4201 Viktor Saunders 2000
4275 Viktor Saunders 2000
4290 (N) Vladimir Komissarov 2A 2000
4290 (S) Vladimir Komissarov 2A 2000
4375 Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams 2009
4390 Viktor Saunders 2000
4551 Pat Littlejohn 2000
4602
4655 Гаврилов Б. 1956
4686 Гаврилов Б. 1956
4710, Vladimir Komissarov 3A 2009
Krenintor, 4732 Pat Littlejohn 2000
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 4775 Suchorukov Michail 1B 2006
Karpinskogo, 4781 Гаврилов Б. 1956
4787 ? ?
Humani, 4800 Viktor Saunders AD 2000
Pietro Segantini, Vladimir Komissarov, from N 2A 2000
4825 Vladimir Komissarov, from NE 2B 2008
Altyntoo, 4872 Pat Littlejohn AD 2000
Tsarevitch, 4920 Pat Littlejohn PD 2000
Parkhomenko, Гаврилов Б. 1956
5056
Matershinnitsa,50 Pat Littlejohn, Viktor Saunders along S PD 2000
91 Ridge
Mensy, 5101 Гаврилов Б. 1956
Obrutcheva Гаврилов Б. 1956
(Karator), 5203 Viktor Saunders PD 2000
Konstitutsii, 5281 Черепов И. 1937
Boshman Verner 5B 1971
? 1977

Right peak is 5053m. Unclimbed peaks of Bardytor canyon of Kuilu Range

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Kuilu Range. 4920m Peak left and Pietro Segantini Peak 4825m both are climbed.

Peaks: right peak is 5051m (unclimbed), left is 5053m (unclimbed) of Bardytor Glacier.
Central is 5077m (unclimbed) of Terekty George of Kuilu Range

5
Unclimbed peak of upper richer Bardytor Glacier of Kuilu Range.

Base camp near Confluence Rivers Kuilu and Batdytor.

6
Molo River crossing. Kuilu river basin.

Upper richer of Kuilu River.

7
Bardytor River crossing.

Base camp Karator.

8
Lower reach of Kuilu River.

Author – Vladimir Komissarov

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Authors – Pat Littlejohn, Vladimir Komissarov, Adrian Nelhams

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 Киргизский Республиканский Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Альпинистский Клуб
Маршруты бассейна ледника Ак-Сай, Ала- Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area (Ala-
Арчинское ущелье, Кыргызский хребет, Archа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan)
Тянь-Шань
Составитель Владимир КОМИССАРОВ By Vadimir KOMISSAROV
по состоянию на 10 июля 2017 года. Status at July 10, 2017.
Количество маршрутов по категориям трудности: Routes count according grades (Russian grades):
1Б - 8, 2А – 13, 2Б – 4, 3А – 14, 3Б -11, 4А – 10, 4Б – 18, 1B - 8, 2А – 13, 2B – 4, 3А – 14, 3B -11, 4А – 10, 4B –
5А – 33, 5Б – 40, 6А – 11, ∑- 162. Из них на пик 18, 5А – 33, 5B – 40, 6А – 11, ∑- 162 ( from its Korona
Корона 38 маршрутов, на пик Свободная Корея 25 Peak 38 routes, Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak
маршрутов. 25 routes).
Учитывались как классифицированные, так и Accounted as classified routes, as non classified routes
неклассифицированные маршруты (в таблице (marked by *). Estimation of non classified routes was
отмечены *). Категория неклассифицированных done according of first ascent team estimation. First
маршрутов указывалась по оценке группы, ascent in the area was done on 1938 by V.Ozarovskii
совершившей первопрохождение. Первое on Uchitel Peak.
восхождение в районе совершено Озаровским В. на
пик Учитель в 1938 году.

Рис. 1. Орографическая схема района ледника Корона Западная, 10 – пик Корона, 11 – пик
Ак-Сай, Ала-Арчинское ущелье, Киргизский Изыскатель, 12 – пик Двурогая, 13 – пик
хребет. Номера вершин на схеме: 1 – пик Космонавтов, 14 – пик Байлян-Баши, 15 – пик
Пионер, 2 - пик Комсомолец, 3 - пик Павлика Симагина, 16 – пик Свободная Корея, 17 - пик
Морозова, 4 – пик Олега Кошевого, 5 – пик Ак-Тоо, 18 – пик Трезубец, 19 – пик Теке-Тор,
Учитель, 6 – пик Байчичикей, 7 – пик Скрябина, 20 – пик Рацека, 21 – пик Бокс, 22 – пик Перо.
8 – пик Семенова Тянь-Шанского. 9 – пик Номера строений на схеме: I – природный парк
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Ала-Арча, II– хижина Ак-Сай на стоянке Рацека, Peak, 10 – Korona Peak, 11 – Izyskatel Peak, 12 –
III – хижина Наука, IV - хижина Корона. Dvurogaia Peak, 13 – Kosmonavtov Peak, 14 –
Fig. 1. Orographik Scheme of Ak-Say Glacier area, Bailian-Bashi Peak, 15 – Skriabina Peak, 16 –
Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyz Range. Peak numbers Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak, 17 – Ak-Too
on the Scheme: 1 – Pioneer Peak, 2 - Peak, 18 – Trezubets Peak, 19 – Teke-Tor Peak, 20
Komsomolets Peak, 3 - Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4 – Ratseka Peak, 21 – Boks Peak, 22 – Pero Peak.
– Olega Koshevogo Peak, 5 – Uchitel (Ticher) Peak, Buildings in the area: I -Natural Park Ala-Archa, II
6 – Baichichikey Peak, 7 – Skriabina Peak, 8 – – Ak-Say hut on Ratsek Stop, Nauka hut, Korona
Semionova Tien-Shanskogo Peak, 9 – Korona west hut.

Таблица вершин и маршрутов/List of summits and routes

Номер вершины на карте, название , высота в метрах, номера фотографий /
Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos
№ мар- Лидер группы совершившей первое прохождение, маршрут / Кат. Год /
шрута First climbing team leader, route труд Year
на н./Gr
фото ade
/Route
# on a
photo

1, Пик Пионер, 4050, фото №1/ 1, Pioneer Peak, 4050, #1, photo#1
1.1 Маречек Б. (с С)/ Marechek B. (from N) 2А 1950
1.2 с пер. Кашка-Су/ from Kashka-Su Pass 1Б
1,3 по З гр./ along W Ridge 1Б

2, Пик Комсомолец, 4134, / 2, Komsomolets Peak, 4134, #2

2.1 С пер. Фиолетовый/ from Fioletovyi (Violet) Pass 1Б
2.2 с пер. Кашка-Суу/ from Kashka-Su Pass 1Б

3, Пик Павлика Морозова, 4200, фото №2/ 3, Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200, photo #2
3.1 Ч-з Красную Горку с пер Фиолетовый/ from Fioletovyi Pass over red m-t 2А 1949
3.2 по З гр./ along W Ridge 1Б

4, Пик Олега Кошевого, 4300,/ 4, Olega Koshevogo Peak, 4300, #4

4,1 с С на Ю/ from N to S 3А
4.2 с Ю на С/ from S to N 3А

5. Пик Учитель, 4527м, фото №3, 7/ 5. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527, Photos #3 and 7
5.1 Озаровский В./ Ozaroskii V. 1Б 1938
5.2 Шлунегер А. по З кул. и Ю гр./Schlunegger A. W cul. and S range 2A* 2011

6. Пик Байчичикей, 4515м, фото№4, 5, 6, 7/ 6. Baichichikey (Snowdrop) Peak, 4515, photos #4,5,6,7
6.1 Тустукбаев А. л. кулуару З ст./ left culuar of W wall 2А* 1969
6.2 Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S. 3Б 2012
6.3 Илюшенко А./ Ilushenko A. 4Б 1989
6.4 Кузьменко Б./ Kuzmenko B. 5А 1977
6.5 Дашкевич С./ Dashkevich S. 5А 2007
6.6 Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D. 5А* 2010
6.7 Поляк В./ Poliak V. 5А 1983
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6.8 Калашников А./ Kalashnikov A. 5А* 1986
6.9 Шваб А./ Shvab A. 5А 1980
6.10 Михайлов М./ Mikhailov M. 5А* 1999
6.11 Чечулин А., Корнеев А./Chechulin A., Korneev A. 4A* 2008
6.12 Москалев А. с В/ Moskaliov A. From E 1Б 1948

7. Пик Скрябина, 4753, фото №7 и 8/ Skriabina Peak, 4753, photo #7 and 8

7.1 З гр./ along W Ridge 3А
7.2 Евсюков Г./ Evsukov G. 3А 1972

8. Пик Семенова-Тяньшанского, 4895, фото №8, 9/ Semionova T-Sh Peak, 4895, photos #8 and 9
8.1 Плакущев И./ Plakuschev I. 3А 1987
8.2 Скотников Д.,Маркевич К. 5Аз 2015
8.3 Федоров А./Fedorov A. 5А 2013
8.4 Наговицина Е./ Nagovitsyna E. 5А 1999
8.5 Захаров Н./ Zakharov N. 5А 1988
8.6 Дашкевич А./ Dashkevich A. 5Аз 2011
8.7 Никифоренко О./ Nikifirenko O. 5А 1988
8.8 Плотников И.пр.часть З стены/ Plotnikov I. Right part of W wall 5A 1996
8.9 Еропунов А.Н./ Eropunov A. 3А 1952
8.10 Шубин А./ Shubin A. 3Б 1950
8.11 Губаев А./ Ghubaev A. 3Б 1987
8.12 Потоцкий А. Марк Айткен\ 4А* 2015

Корона Западная, 4300м, фото #10/ Korona West Peak, 4300, photo #10
9.1 Федоров А./Fedorov A. 4Aз
9.2 Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S. 5Аз 2013
9.3 Дашкевич С./ Dashkevich S. 4Бз 2010
9.4 Новосельцев Е./ Novoseltsev E. 4Б 2002
9.5 СеливерстовС. (соло)/ Seliverstov S/ (solo) 5Аз 2013
9.6 Brown W. М6+ 4Б 2012
9.7 Акимов В./ Akimov V. 3Б 1994
9.8 Сыщиков А. с ЮЗ/ Syschikov A. From SW 3Б 2014

Корона, 1 башня, 4840, № 10, фото № 10, 11 /, Korona Peak, 1st buttress, 4840, #10, photo #10 and 11
10.1 Гаврилов Б./ Gavrilov B. 4А 1956
10.2 ? 4А 1989
10.3 Павленко Д. (соло)/ Pavlenko D. (solo) 5Б 2009
10.4 Королев В./ Koroliev V. 5Б 1980
10.5 Попов Ф./ Popov F. 5Б 1976
10.6 Плотников И./ Plotnikov I. 5Б 1995
10.7 Смирнов Ю./ Smirnov U. 5Б 1962
10.8 Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A. 5А 2000
10.9 Селиверстов С., Акбуюков Д./Seliverstov S., Akbuiukov D. 5Аз 2014
10.10 Калюгин К./ Kavughin K. 5Б 1982
10.11 Ручкин А.(соло)/ Ruchkin A.(solo) 5Б 2000
10.12 Плотников И./ Plotnikov i. 4А 1995
10.13 Белобаченко Е./ Belobachenko E. 3А 1976
10.14 Башманов Ю.,Королев В.по кам. с З/ Bashmnov Iu.,along chimney from W 3А 1980

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Корона 1, 2, 3 башни, №10, фото 11/ 1, 2, 3 buttress of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.15 2 башня с ЮЗ 2А ?
10.16 2 башня с СЗ 2А ?

Корона 4 башня, 4850м, №10, фото 12/ 4 buttress of Korona Peak, #10< photo 13
10.17 Темерев И./ Temerev I. 5А 2014

Корона 5 башня, 4850м, №10, фото 12/ 5 buttress of Korona Peak, 4850, #10, photo 12
10.18 Егоров В./ Egorov V. 5А ?
10.19 Садовский В./ Sadovskii V. 5Б 1968
10.20 Михайлов М./ Mihailov M. 5Б
10.21 Балезин В./ Balezin V. 6А 1994
10.22 Ружевский В./ Ruzhevskii V. 5Б 1976
10.23 Маркевич К./ Markevich K. 6А 2013

Корона 6 башня, 4840м, №10, фото12/ 6 b buttress atris of Korona Peak, 4840, #10, photo 12
10.24 Сыщиков А, Ткач Н./ Syschikopv A.? Tkach N. 5Бз 2015
10.25 Глуховцев А./ Gluhovtsev A. 5Б 1963
10.26 Логинов И./ Loghiniv I. 5Б 2013
10.27 Андреев Р. с перемычки между Двурогой и 6 башней/ Andreev R. 4Б 1959

Траверсы Короны, 4860, №10, фото 11/ Traverses of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.28 2-3 башни 3А ?
10.29 3-2 бащни 3А ?
10.30 1-6 башни, Гаврилов В./ Gavrilov V. 5А 1956
10.31 6-1 башни 5А ?

Изыскатель, 4400, №11, фото 13, 15, 16/ Izyskatel Peak, 4400, #11, photo 13, 15, 16
11.1 Боголюбов В./ Bogolubov V. 2А 1982
11.2 Родиков А./Rodikov A. 3Б 1988
11.3 Глухов В./Glukhov V. 3Б 1967
11.4 Селиверстов С., Филинов В./Seliverstov S., Filinov V. 4Б 2014
11.5 Иранский м-т В часть С стены/Iranian rout, E part of N face 3A* 2016

Двурогая, 4380м, №12, фото 12/ Dvurogaia Peak,4380, #12, photo 12

12.1 Кулемин М./Kulemin M. 4Б 1960
12.2 Нескородов А./ Neskorodov A. 5Аз 2012

Космонавтов, 4368, №13, фото 14, 15, 16/ Kosmonavtov Peak, 4368, #13, photo 14, 15, 16
13.1 Саратовкин В. по ЮЗ кулуару и Ю гр./ Seratovkin V. 3Б 1962
13.2 Кузменко Б. по СЗ кулуару и С гр./ Kuzmenko B. 4Б* 1981

Байлян-Баши, 4737, №14, фото 14, 15, 16/ Bailian-Bashi Peak, 4737, #13, photo 14, 15, 16
14.1 Еропунов А(тр.1-5б)/ Eropunov A. 4А 1952
14.2 Денисов В./ Denisov V. 5А 1970
14.3 Некрасов А./Nekrasov A. 5А 1984
14.4 Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D. 5А* 2010

4
14.5 Кузьменко Б./ Kuzmenko B. 6А ?
14.6 Дашкевич А./ Dashkevich A. 5Б 2010
14.7 Мансуров Б./ Mansurov B. 5Б 1961

Симагина, 4400, №15, фото 16/ Simaghin Peak, 4400, #15, photo 16
15.1 Бaлинский A./ Balinskii A. 5Б 1969
15.2 Полевой И./ Polevoi I. 5Б 1969
15.3 Родиков А./ Rodikov A. 4Б 1990

Свободная Корея, 4740, №16, фото 17/ Svobodnaia Korea Peak, 4740, #15, photo 17
16.1 Агафонов А./ Agafonov A. 5Б 1991
16.2 Балезин В./ Balezin V. 5Б 1991
16.3 Сыщиков А., Черемных А./ Syschikov A., Cheremnyh A. 5Б 2015
16.4 Шваб А./Shvab A. 5Б 1982
16.5 Балезин В./ Balezin V. 5Б 2000
16.6 Иванов Н./ Ivanov N. 6А 2004
16.7 Студенин Б./ Studenin B. 6А 1966
16.8 Кустовский А./ Kustovskii A. 6А 1969
16.9 Михайлов М./ Mihailov M. 6А 1999
16.10 Семилеткин./ Semiletkin 6А 1988
16.11 Попенко Ю./ Popenko U. 6А 1975
16.12 Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A. 6А 2001
16.13 Беззубкин В./ Bezzubkin V. 5Б 1969
16.14 Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A. 6А 1997
16.15 Мышляев Л./ Myshliaev L. 5Б 1961
16.16 (Самарский)/ Samarskii 5Б 1991
16.17 Багаев Б./ Bagaev B. 5Б 1974
16.18 Барбер Г,/Barber G. 5Б 1976
16.19 Amin Moein, Hamed Havaleh – Persian Gulf 5А 2014
16.20 Гутник А., Акимов В./ Gutnik A Akimov V. 5Б 2003
16.21 Балезин В./ Balezin V. 5Б 1994
16.22 Павленко Д. (соло)/ Pavlenko (solo) 5А 2009
16.23 Андреев Г./ Andreev G. 5А 1959
16.24 Лоу Д./ Low D. 5А 1976
16.25 Агафонов А./ Agafonov. A. 5А 1991

Ак-Тоо, 4640, №17, фото 18, 19, 21/ Ak-Too Peak, 4640, #17, photo 18,19, 21
17.1 Гаврилов А./ Gavrilov A. 4Б 1957
17.2 Усманов А./ Usmanov A/ 4Б 2013
17.3 Глазунов Е./ Glazunov E. 4Б 2013
17.4 Тарасов В./ Tarasov V. 4Б 1989

Трезубец, 4380, №18, фото 19, 20, 21/ Trezubets Peak, 4380, #18, photo 19, 20, 21
18.1 Прокофьев Д./ Prokofiev D. 4Б 2013

Теке-Тор, 4424, №19, фото 21, 22, 28/ Teke-Tor Peak, #19, photo 21,22, 28
19.1 (Чешский)/ Chekhien 4А ?
19.2 Розин Ю./ Rozin U. 3Б ?
19.3 СВ ребро 3Б ?

5
19.4 Мухамедова Е./ Mukhamediva E. 3А 1957
19.5 Японский вариант 19.4/Japaneese variant of 19.5 3A* 2017

Рацека, 3980, №20, фото 23, 24/ Ratsek Peak, 3980, #20, photo 23, 24
20.1 Балыкин В./ Balykin V. 2Б 1987
20.2 Темерев И./ Temerev I. 2А 2006
20.3 Акимов В. (с Ю)/ Akimov V. from S 2А 2012
20.4 Акимов В. (с З)/ Akimov V. from W 3А 2013
20.5 Акимов В. (с В)/ Akimov V. from E 2Б 2013
20.6 Потоцкий А. По СВ стене /Pototskii A. NE wall 4А* 2017

Бокс, 4200, №21, фото 25, 26, 28/ Boks Peak, 4200, #21, photo 25, 26, 28
21.1 Калитина А./ Kalitina A. 2А 1959
21.2 ЮВ кулуару/ SE kuluar 1Б ?
21.3 Кф В ст/ contrfors of E wall 3Б ?
21.4 Пугачев И. Кф В ст/ Pugachev I 4Б ?
21.5 Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D. 5Б ?
21.6 (Югославский)/ Ugoslavien 5А 1987
21.7 Михайлов М./ Mihailov M/ 5Б 1997
21.8 Корейский по Ц С стены/ Korean 5Б 2014
21.9 Селиверстов С./ Seloverstov S. 5Б 2013
21.10 Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S. 5Б 2013
21.11 Дашкевич А/ Dashkevich A. 5Аз 2013
21.12 Селиверстов С./ Selivirstov S. 4Б 2012
21.13 Айтбаев А./ Aitbaev A. 4А 1956
21.14 Табачиков _./ Tabachikov 4Б 1990

Перо, 4049, №22, фото 27/ Pero Peak, 4049, #22, Photo 27
22.1 Акимов В./ Akimov V. 5Б 2014

Траверсы Ак-Сайской подковы, фото / Traverses of Ak-Say summites

23.1 Игнатьев Н. Учитель-Байчичикей/ Ignatiev N. Uchitel – Baichichikey 2Б 1956
23.2 Байчичикей-Учитель/ Baichichikey - Uchitel 2Б ?
23.3 Шубин А. Скрябина-Семенова Т-Ш/ Shubin A. Skriabina – Semiomova TS 4Б 1955
23.4 Семенова- Скрябина/Semionova TS – Skriabina 4А 1956
23.4 Байлян-Баши – Теке-Тор/ Bailin-Bashi – Teke-Tor 5Б ?
23.5 Андреев Р. Теке-Тор – Байлян-Баши/ Andreev R. Teke-Tor -Bailian-Bashi 5Б ?
23.5 Андреев Р. Двурогая- Скрябина/ Andreev R. Dvurogaia - Skriabina 5Б 1961
23.6 Скрябина-Двурогая/ Skriabina - Dvurogaia 5Б ?
23.7 Шкодин В. Св.Кореи- Космонавтов/ Shkodin V. Sv.Korea - Kosmonavtov 5Б 1964
23.8 Житенев Ф Скрябина – Лермонтова/ Zhitenev F. Skriabina - Lermontova 5Б 1967
23.9 Комсомолец-Пионер/ Komsomolets - Pioner 2А
23.10 Пионер – Комсомолец / Pioner - Komsomolets 2A
23.11 Комсомолец – Павлика Морозова/ Komsomolets = Pavlika Morozova 2А
23.12 Павлика Морозова – Комсомолец/ Pavlika Morozova - Komsomolets 2А

Фотографии Комиссарова В.А./Photos by Komissarov V/

6
Фото 1. Пик Пионер, 4050 м. Фото с юга/Photo 1. Pioneer Peak, 4050 m. Photo from S.

Фото 2. Пик Павлика Морозова, 4200 м./ Photo 2. Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200 m.

7
Фото 3. Пик Учитель, 4527 м./ Photo 3. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527 m.

Фото 4. Пики Учитель, Байчичикей, Скрябина./ Photo 4. Uchitel, Baichichikey, Skriabina Peaks.
8
Фото 5. Пик Байчичикей, 4515 м./ Photo 5. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.

Фото 6. Пик Байчичикей, 4515 м./ Photo 6. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.

9
Фото 7. Пики Скрябина и Семенова-Тянь-Шанского./ Photo 7. Skriabina and Semenova T-Sh Peaks.

Фото 8. Пик Семенова -Тянь-Шанского, 4895 м./ Photo 8. Semenova T-Sh Peak, 4895 m.

10
Фото 9. Пики Корона и Корона Западная/ Photo 9. Korona and Korona West Peaks.

Фото 10. Пики Корона и Изыскатель./ Photo 10. Korona and Izyskatel Peaks.
11
 Фото 11. Пики Корона (4, 5 и 6 башни) и Двурогая./ Photo 11. Korona (4, 5 and 6 buttress) and
Dvurogaia Peaks.

12
Фото 12. Пик Изыскатель, 4400 м./ Photo 12. Izyskatel, 4400 m.

Фото 13. Пики Космонавтов и Байлян-Баши (1 башня)/ Photo 13. Kosmonavtov and Bailian-
Bashi(1buttres)Peaks.

13
Фото 14. Пики Космонавтов и Байлян-Баши, на переднем плане ЮЗ гребень пика Изыскатель./
Photo 14. Kosmonavtov and Bailian-Bashi Peaks, on the foreground SW ridge of Izyskatel Peak.

Фото 15. Пики Изыскатель, Космонавтов, Байлян-Баши, Симагина./

Photo 15. Izyskatel, Kosmonavtov, Bailian-Bashi, Simaghin Peaks.

14
Фото 16. Пики Симагина и Свободная Корея./ Photo 16. Simaghin and Svobodnaia Korea Peaks

Фото 17. Пик Ак-Тоо, 4640 м./ Photo 17. Ak-Too, 4640 m.

15
Фото 18. Пики Ак-Тоо и Трезубец./ Photo 18. Ak-Too and Trezubets Peaks.

Фото 19. Пик Трезубец, 4380 м./ Photo 19. Trezubets Peak, 4380 m.

16
Фото 20. Пики Ак-Тоо, Трезубец, Теке-Тор./ Photo 20. Ak-Too, Trezubets, Teke-Tor Peaks.

Фото 21. Пик Теке-Тор, 4424 м./ Photo 21. Teke-Tor, 4424 m.

17
Фото 22. Пик Рацека, 3980 м./ Photo 22. Ratsek Peak, 3980 m.
18
Фото 23. Пик Рацека с СВ./ Photo 23. Ratsek Peak from northeast.

Фото 24. Пик Бокс с В./ Photo 24. Boks Peak from East.

19
Фото 25. Пик Бокс с С./ Photo 25. Boks Peak from North.

Фото 26. Пики Теке-Тор и Бокс./ Photo 26. Teke-Tor and Boks Peaks.

20
Фото 26. Пик Перо с СВ (со стоянки Рацека)./ Photo 26. Pero Peaks from northeast(from Ratsek Stop).
21
Обзорные фотографии района ледников Ак-Сай, Учитель, Наука/
Review photo region of glaciers: Ak-Sai, Uchitel, Nauka

Фото 27. Пики Байчичикей, Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, Корона. Вид со стоянки Рацека на З./ Photo
27. Baichichikey, Semenova T-Sh, Korona. View from the Ratsek Stop

Фото 28. Вид на ледник Ак-Сай с С (с З плеча пика Учитель) и пики Ак-Тоо, Трезубец, Теке-Тор и
Бокс./ Photo 28. Ak-Sai Glacier view from N (From the western shoulder Uchitel Peak) and Ak-Too,
Trezubets, Teke-Tor, Boks Peaks.
22
Фото 29. Пик Бокс с пика Комсомолец./ Photo 29. Boks and Komsomolets Peaks.

Фото 30. Вид с ССЗ на ледник Ак-Сай./ Photo 30. Ak-Sai Glacier view from NNW

23
Фото 31 и 32. Хижина Ак-Сай на стоянке Рацека./ Photo 31 and 32. Ak-Sai Hut on the Ratsek stop.

Фото 32/Photo 32.

24
Фото 33. Ледники Учитель и Наука. Пики Семенова- Тянь-Щанского и Корона./ Photo 33. Uchitel
and Nauka Glaciers. Semenova T-Sh and Korona Peaks.

Фото 34. Ледник Ак-Сай вид с СЗ./ Photo 34. Ak-Sai Glasier view from NW.
25
Фото 35. Ледники Ак-Сай и Корона. Пики Скрябина, Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, Корона,
Изыскатель./ Photo 35. Ak-Sai and Korona Glaciers. Skriabina, Semenova T-Sh, Korona, Izyskatel Peaks.

Фото 36. Пик Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, справа пик Корона. На переднем плане гребень между
пиками Учитель и Байчичикей./ Photo 36. Semenova T-Sh Peak,right Korona Peak. Foreground ridge
between Uchitel and Baichichikey Peaks.
26
Фото 37. Ледник Наука. Пики Ак-тоо и Теке-тор, на переднем плане пик Рацека. Вид с ССВ./ Photo
37. Nauka Glacier. Ak-Too and Teke-Tor Peaks, on the foreground Ratsek Peak. View from NNW.

Фото 38. Пики Бокс и Перо. Вид с С./ Photo 38. Boks and Pero Peaks. View from N.

27
 Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan
Short Description and photo exposition of the route and tactics of
ascending the Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya summit

By Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guide

Lenin Peak (7,134m) is one of easiest of the World peaks over 7000m. It’s situated in
Zaalaisky Range of Pamir mountains on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.
There is in biggest City of the region Osh International Airport. There is a 290 km road from
Osh City to the Base Camp (BC) in Achiktash region. It goes via Osh – Gulcha village –
Taldyk pass – Sary–Tash village – Kashka-Suu village – Achiktash district. 255 km of 290 are
paved highway and 35 km is gravel road. Travel time by car is about 5-7 hours.
At 2018 is Anniversary jubilee of 90 years first ascent. At 2018 July will be held by
Kyrgyz Alpine Club Mountaineering Festival consecrate of the event .

Route description. (Fig.1 and 2)

BC. 3600m – ABCamp, 4300m.

It is possible to get from BC to Lukovaya polyana (onion glade) by foot or by car (6 km).
From Lukovaya Glade the trail goes southwest along the rocky ridge up to the
Puteshestvennikov pass (Travellers’ pass). The ascent takes about 1 – 1.5h. Further the trail
goes downhill for 15-20 min and then for about 30-60 min it goes along the same ridge with a
slight climb up to the crossing point. The crossing of the river is usually not a problem in the
morning when the water level is not high and it is possible to cross by jumping over the
stones. However, in the hot afternoon the water level is increasing and river crossing can
become very difficult and dangerous. After the river the trail follows for 1.5 – 2 h on the
moraines till ABCamp. In total it takes about 3-5 hours to get from BC till ABC.

Fic. 1. Route schema on Lenin Peak from N through Razdelnaia Peak (6148m).

1
 Fig 2. Orographical map of Lenin Glacier area.

АВС, 4300m – Camp 1 (С1), 5200m.

The trail to Camp 1 first goes in direction to the centre of the northern slope of Lenin
peak then up to Lenin glacier and follows up to the beginning of ascent. This part of the
glacier and moraines is rather flat. There are some scours and cracks which can be easily
avoided. It takes about 45-60 min from ABC to the beginning of the ascent.

The ascent follows icy northern slopes covered with ice with the angle of 15º -30º which
at some parts become 40º. There are some deep wide crevasses which can be traversed.
Narrow cracks can be jumped over or crossed by the snow bridges. After this part of the trail
the path goes along the slope into syncline (5000m) and further along the slope in southwest
and west direction into C1. Starting from the ascent and up to C1 it is necessary to proceed
in rope team. The ascent time is 5-9 hours.

2
 C1 (5200m) – C2, Razdelnaia (6148m)

From C1 the ascent goes to the left of rocks up to the shoulder of the range to
Razdelnaia. The steepness of the slope is 15º-30º. C2 is situated on the left side in 100
meters from the Razdelnaya summit. The ascent takes up to 4-7 hours.

С2 (Razdelnaia). 6148m – the Lenin peak, 7134 m – С2.

Taking the climbers have good acclimatization it usually takes 1 day to hike from C1 up
to the summit and back. First there is a short descent to the saddle between Razdelnaya and
C3 of Lenin peak range. The ascent goes from the ridge up the snowy slope with occasional
access to the rocks and narrow flat ridge up to the summit. To guarantee the successful
ascent usually C3 is set up here at the altitude of 6400m. Further the trail takes up the ridge
to the narrow 100m long ascent with 20º-30º steepness called “the knife”.

It is compulsory to use harness at this stage. Follow the ridge up to the pre-summit
plateau (6900-7000m) and continue up to the summit along the flat snowy slopes and scree.
Tour in the shape of Lenin bust is located a little bit lower of the summit, which is 100 m to
southeast. The descent follows the acsent trail. It is strongly recommended for ascent to start
off from C2 as early as possible, not later than 5 am. The time of ascent and descent is 10-14
hours.

Ascent tactics

Technically the route is not difficult, but summiting depends on the choice of tactics.
Among the main difficulties and hazards are the altitude, crevasses, avalanches and bad
weather. Proper acclimatization becomes of the main significance. Climbing experience of
the Lenin peak proves that the most appropriate acclimatization is 2 goes with 1-2 nights in
C1 and C2 and descend to the BC for good rest.

The ascent during acclimatization should be consecutive to the increasing altitude

(Fig.3). Acclimatization hikes should start very early – before 5 am. Start from C2 to summit
is recommended don’t later 3 AM.

Acclimatization is often combined with transporting and setting up of intermediate

camps. If mountaineers lack climbing experience at the altitude it is strongly recommended to
go on acclimatization climbs with experienced mountain guides or instructors. Also if climbers
do not feel confident in their strength and experience it is advised to set up additional camp at
the altitude of 6400m.

3
 Below are principal versions of ascent diagrams. Its, of coarse, could be corrected, but
in any case is recommended to keep acclimatisation with two climbing. Also, is
recommended to foresee 1-3 days for bad weather.

Fig 3. Versions of ascent diagrams.

Safety

Among the technical skills ensuring safety there are command of the language and
skills on eliminating and minimizing different hazardous factors of the ascent. These are the
following: 1) ice crevasses from ABC to C1 which require skills of climbing in rope team on
the glaciers, crossing snow bridges over the crevasses, conducting search and rescue with
disposed equipment and skills on self-rescue from crevasses; 2) skills of identifying
avalanche hazard, crossing of the avalanche-prone slopes, search in avalanche, skills on
operating avalanche trackers; 3) transportation of the injured person using disposed
equipment; 4) first aid skills.

For ensuring the effective search and rescue operation it is necessary to register with
the relevant rescue company (www.rescue.centralasia.kg) at least 1 month before the
climbing and also possess the proper insurance policy (up to EUR30000) covering possible
rescue works.

4
 Photo exposition

Photo 1. Lenin Peak. View from Base Camp Achiktash.

Photo 2. Lenin Peak in the evening.

5
Photo 3. Base Camp (3600м)

Photo 4. Mess room in BC.

6
Photo 5. Lenin Peak. View from Puteshestvennikov Pass

Photo 6. Here is started track to Lenin Peak.

7
Photo 7. Тrack to Puteshestvennikov Pass.

Photo 8. Climbing track on Puteshestvennikov Pass.

8
Photo 9 . Тrack on South side of Puteshestvennikov Pass.

Photo 10 . Тrack on South side of Puteshestvennikov Pass.

9
 Photo 11. After river crossing track up on moraine Lenin Glacier. Morning time it is
possible to cross rive by stones, but afternoon, when water is came up crossing
possible through ford or by horses.

Photo 12. Track to ABC along Lenin Glacier morane.

10
Photo 13. Track to ABC along Lenin Glacier moraine.

Photo 14. Pack transport from BC to ABC.

11
Photo 15. ABC camp (4200m).

Photo 16. Mess rooms (yourts) (left and right), kitchen and store tent (in centre) in АВС.

12
Photo 17 . Kitchen in ABC

Photo 18. View of Lenin Peak from ABC.

13
Photo 19. Upper reaches of Lenin Glacier in front, behind track to C1.

Photo 20. Beginning of rout.

14
Photo 21. Track to “friypan”.

Photo 22. Way round of crevasses by avalanche.

15
Photo 23. Track to “frypan”.

Photo 24. Track at beginning of “frypan”.

16
Photo 25. Crevasses crossing on the way to C1.

Photo 26. Track to “frypan”.

17
Photo 27. “Frypan”

Photo 28. View from C1 to “frypan” and Lenin Peak North slopes. There are avalanche
coming to “frypan”.

18
Photo 29. “Frypan”, behind C1 and shoulder of Razdelnauya Peak.

19
Photo 30. C1.

Photo 31. Coming up to Pazdelnaya shoulder. Behind is C1.

20
Photo 32. Coming up to Pazdelnaya shoulder.

Photo 33. Track to Razdelnaia.

21
Photo 34. Razdelnaia shoulder.

Photo 35. Track to Razdelnaia (right). Saddle between Razdelnaya and Lenin Peak ridge.

22
Photo 36. Track before Razdelnaia.

Photo 37. View to Lenin Peak from C2.

23
Photo 38, C2

Photo 39. C2. View from Lenin Peak ridge.

24
Photo 40. Night start to Lenin Peak summit from C2.

Photo 41. Lenin Peak ridge.

25
Photo 42. Lenin Peak ridge before summit.

Photo 43. Ridge before the summit.

26
Photo 44. Last meters before the summit.

Photo 45. The summit of Lenin Peak.

27
Photo 46. View to Kommunizm (7495) and Korgenevskaya (7105) Peaks from Lenin Peak
summit.

Photo 47 Author on a descent from Lenin Peak.

28