RBR - DLL Official Guide: by Davide "Ventu" Venturelli
RBR - DLL Official Guide: by Davide "Ventu" Venturelli
dll
Official Guide
By Davide “Ventu” Venturelli
Introduction:
Many times I was asked to create a tutorial about the use of the misterious rbr.dll: what is this thing?
RBR.dll is a tiny plugin, created by the finnish Keijo "Kegetys" Ruotsalainen
(http://www.kegetys.fi/rbr/?p=rbrdll ), which adds some interesting functionality to Richard Burns
Rally.
In this tutorial I'll analize the various function, usable in the utility www.rbr-world.com: rbr.dll has
other functions, but some of them are not usable on RBR-World (RBRW): moreover, rbr.dll can be
only used in the replay mode with RBRW.
Since I started writing a tutorial I will do it at 100%: I wish to create a “base” for who wants to take
part to the ancient art of the virtual photo and video maker.
In the second part of the tutorial I'll teach you some of the tricks I learned in those years of screens
and videos on RBRW.
Have a nice read.
At this point, you just have to select the car and the stage of which we have saved the replay,
starting the utility for making the game loading the right combo, closing the game and starting the
replay mode from the utility (Utility->Replays).
During the loading of the Rally HeadQuarter you'll notice a little word on the left bottom corner of
the screen: this will indicate us the activation of rbr.dll
“Press App+H for Help”: pressing simultaniously App (or right click from keyboard) and H we will
reach an Help page.
Function
Let's see what function rbr.dll offers us.
(firstly you have the combo of keys you have to press, then the effect.)
Time Controls:
those functions are activated by the 6 keys in the box.
those effects may influence the fluidity in game, so if you don't have a good pc video recording
can be a little bit difficult.
Recording: honestly I would not recommend to use rbr.dll for the recording: Fraps is a lot better
since rbr.dll will record really heavy files and the game will slow down a lot.
Other: We are almost at the end, and we can find some interesting command:
-App+M: activates the HUD during the replay.
-App+H: help screen.
-App+F: FPS meter
-App+N: Pacenotes editor. This function is disabled in RBR-World for preventing cheat, since the
file that contains the pacenote has inside also the position of split lines and start/finish lines.
-Backspace: It allows to stick the camera to the ground, so it does not follow the car anymore. This
function, combined with CamHack, allows you to create screenshots and videos diffent for the
original cameras.
Part TWO: Screenshots and
Videos
I'll referr only to videos: obviously what I say about video can be used for screenshots.
What do you need? For sure an “artistic” eye is usefull. Knowing what a good shot is can be
fondamental in the real photos, so it is also important for us, since we drive on a good amount of
pixels.... :)
My advice is to do your best for recreating the real world: Absolutely forbidden the
compenetration of the car and the camera, cameras that penetrate walls, trees, ground etc..
Another advice is to push the limit of your graphic card: AA and AF must be enabled and at the
maximum setting so you get more smooth shots.
You will need also some editing programs (Vegas, Premiere for the videos and Photoshop, Gimp for
the screenshots) and a little bit of fantasy.
Fraps: Set “Full Resolution” and a “video capture setting” similar to the fps we have during
recording in game.. If during a record we have 30fps we should set this in fraps
Remember: to start camhack on Windows Vista or 7 you will need dx8vb.dll: on youtube you'll find
some videos teaching you how to download and register it.
The dll (and camhack) is the same of GTA: San Andreas so the tutorial for the dll will be the same.
Camhack settings are kinda personal, let say that with the numberpad I feel ok.
Here's my config.ini.
[Keys]
K0=76
K1=253
K2=78
K3=74
K4=75
K5=77
K6=72
K7=80
K8=82
K9=76
K10=79
K11=81
K12=7
K13=0
K14=46
K15=83
K16=45
K17=27
K18=26
K19=40
K20=39
K21=25
[Main]
MouseSensitivity=0.5
KeySensitivity=0.326
Rate=10
JoyIndex=1
InvertM=0
InvertX=0
FOVX=2
FOVY=1
Version=200
HCAM=8
According to the kind of shot I have to do, I'll modify the “Camera Speed”, which is the speed of
the camera moving.
I'll set it to 0,1 if I have to be precise, maybe moving inside the car for GoPro style shots.
I'll set it to 0,4 if I have to move on the stage, maybe hundred of meters (as we will see in a while)
Here's my tipical working path (I repeat, you can also use it for screenshots).
Open Fraps, Open CamHack, Open Replay Mode in the RBR-W utility...
App+P and I set Post-processing to my like.
Choose the saved replay and load.
At this point we have multiple options: let say I want to record a good slide at about half of the
stage from an internal camera.
I speed up the reproduction (fast forward) so I get closer to the point I want to record, and I press
(and hold) “End” to pause the reproduction.
I change camera to the 3rd person view: I activate camhack (on my settings is 5 on the numeric pad)
and with . (dot of the numeric pad) the camera will move to the center of gravity of the car (usually
near the gearbox). At this point with the number pad I can move inside and outside the car, so I
can place the camera on the windshield, on the roof, on the side, on the wing etc..
(all those steps can be done with the replay paused, so you don't miss the part you want to record.)
With the mouse you can turn around the camera: for activating it I use 0.
At this point i'll teach you a little trick I learned a few years ago.
Since my PC is not so powerfull to record at a decent amount of fps (let say 30) I use rbr.dll to slow
down the video to 0.5X.. Imagine you record a video with fraps at 0.5X 20fps.. if you import it in a
video editor and speed up to 1X (normal speed) the fps will be 20x2=40, which is ok!
Obviuosly recording at 0.125X and doubling the speed in the video editor you'll get a super
slowmotion at 0.25X and so on.
This trick is useful but has its limits: it does not make sense recording at 0.125x if you already have
60fps.
If you bring the speed in the video editor to 1X you'll have 480fps, which is useless since the
human eye can't see difference after 100fps.
Another little tip I want to give you is the one which allows to do static shots (since I haven't
figured out how to move the camera during the shot)
This methos was really usefull in the Loch Ard video: it allows to do super zoomed shots, or for
example high FOV shots (like inside a hairpin) that are not the usual shots on the TV camera of the
stages.
In the first case, once the replay is loaded etc, we will modify one of the original camera of the
replay.
For example, we find a original camera that goes zooming in near the car: well, we pause the game
and with the number pad we move on the stage, going with the camera maybe 4-5 corner later.
Once we find the good spot (while olding the replay paused) we press Backspace: this “drops” the
camera and sticks it to the ground.
The camera won't follow anymore the car while it pass by, but if it is well placed (let's think of a
high zoomed camera 50m after a big jump) it allows awesome shots, maybe showing the
suspension work over the crest.
In the second case, we start from a high FOV camera (like an original camera that shots at about
2meter from the car.) and then we move maybe inside an hairpin, just above the road level:
backspace again and the camera sticks to the ground.
We just have to wait (listen to the sound, it will tell you when the car is close enough to make the
record with fraps start) and record!
Note: I repeat, the camera won't follow the car as it pass by. If you press again backspace the
camera will un-stick from the ground and will get back to the original camera of the stage.
At the end of the day, everything needs practice: those are just guide lines for starting video
recording, but immagination, practice and a good will-to-learn is needed.