The Guardian View On Fast Fashion - It Can't Cost The Earth - Editorial - The Guardian

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10/28/22, 7:28 PM The Guardian view on fast fashion: it can’t cost the earth | Editorial | The Guardian

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The Guardian view on fast fashion: it can’t cost


the earth
Editorial

We need to rethink the idea that the hunger for new clothes
ought to be sated immediately
Fri 13 Mar 2020 17.31 GMT

F
ashion operates on desire. How we dress feeds off cravings to be different
as well as part of a tribe; to be en vogue but ahead of the pack. The
message from the high street is that such wishes can be fulfilled, and fast
fashion plays on the idea that hunger can be sated immediately. But to
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10/28/22, 7:28 PM The Guardian view on fast fashion: it can’t cost the earth | Editorial | The Guardian

overcome such urges we need to reflect on the fragility of our planet. This means
accepting that there is a better way to keep the pleasures of fashion open to all parts
of society than promoting disposable clothes as desirable. This is not just about the
high cost of the £4 dress; luxury retailers such as Louis Vuitton have offered small
collections every two weeks.

The fashion industry has benefited from globalisation to mass-produce goods by


externalising the costs of production in the form of human and environmental
damage. Every year, 100bn new garments are produced by one out of six people
worldwide. Yet only 2% of them earn a living wage. In this country it is an open
secret that some garment factories are not paying the minimum wage.

Fashion shouldn’t cost the earth. But the industry has for too long promoted
overconsumption as a good thing. About a fifth of mass-produced clothing does not
even sell and ends up being buried, shredded or burned. Garments now account for
8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Synthetic fibres are being found in Arctic
sea ice and in fish.

Britain has too readily embraced throwaway society. Shoppers in the UK buy more
clothes per person than any other country in Europe. It was a mistake last year for
ministers not to take up MPs’ suggestion to reward via taxation companies that
design products with lower climate footprints and penalise those that do not.
Messages from public figures, such as the environmentalist Greta Thunberg, about
not buying clothes has helped to persuade people to turn their backs on fast
fashion. New research shows that 51% of Britons are opting to purchase expensive
but longer-lasting clothes rather than cheaper throwaway items, up from 33% a year
ago.

The market is belatedly responding to the mood. Big brands such as H&M and Zara
have made new commitments to sustainability. John Lewis has this week
introduced labelling to encourage a culture of handing down children’s clothes.

Nudie Jeans has become a success, with organic products and stores that promote
repair services and resale.

At no other time in human history has fashion been so accessible to so many people.
Technology will help to make fashion greener. Better regulation of supply chains
will help too. There is a discernible shift from discarding clothes to repairing,
reusing or even renting them. However, it is hard to see how this will be enough to
make fashion truly sustainable if the industry still produces more and more clothes.
Once normal service is resumed, we need to think again about the wisdom of
fostering competitive consumption, which upholds the persistent demand for
expansion, in our society.
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