Introduction To Fiber

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Chapter 1

Introduction to Textile Fibers


By
Towfik Aziz
Assistant Manager (QC)
Multazim Group
1.1 Introduction:
The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and
availability of clothing and textiles over human history. Clothing and textiles
reflect the materials and technologies available in different civilizations at different
times. The variety and distribution of clothing and textiles within a society
reveal social customs and culture.
The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of
most human societies. Men and women began wearing clothes after the last Ice
Age. Anthropologists believe that animal skins and vegetation were adapted into
coverings as protection from cold, heat and rain, especially as humans migrated to
new climates.
Textiles can be felt or spun fibers (Cotton, Jute, Flax, Hemp, Sisal, Viscose,
polyester)  made into yarn and subsequently netted, looped, knit or woven to make
fabrics, which appeared in the Middle East during the late Stone Age.[1] From the
ancient times to the present day, methods of textile production have continually
evolved, and the choices of textiles available have influenced how people carried
their possessions, clothed themselves, and decorated their surroundings.[2]
Sources available for the study of clothing and textiles include material remains
discovered via archaeology; representation of textiles and their manufacture in art;
and documents concerning the manufacture, acquisition, use, and trade of fabrics,
tools, and finished garments. Scholarship of textile history, especially its earlier
stages, is part of material culture studies.
1.2 Definition of Textile:
A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or
artificial fibers (yarn or thread). Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibers
of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, or other materials to produce long strands. Textiles are
formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting , tatting, felting, or braiding.

1.3 Fiber & Textile Fiber:


Fiber:
It is defined as one of the delicate, hair portions of the tissues of a plant or animal
or other substances that are very small in diameter in relation to there length. A
fiber is a material which is several hundred times as long as its thick.

Textile Fiber:
Textile fiber has some characteristics which differ between fiber to Textile fiber.
Textile fiber can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods
including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting.
The essential requirements for textile fibers are:
 Length of at least 8 millimeters
 Flexibility
 Cohesiveness and sufficient strength.
 Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity,
durability, and luster. It also poses higher strength in bundle than individual
one.

1.4 World Production and Consumption of Textile Fibers:


 It covers world man-made and natural fiber production and includes nonwovens as
well as unspun data. It reveals latest developments, trade data for main markets and
contains several contributions from industry experts ranging from biopolymers,
cotton, viscose and wool to textile machinery shipments.
The worsening economic climate has taken its toll on fiber production that has
experienced the slowest growth in 3 years at 1 % to about 106 million tons .
Natural fibers (share 31 %) softened 1.8 % as result of lower cotton cultivation
while the man-made fiber business continued its 10-year expansion. Growth 2.2 %
at synthetic fibers (share 63 %) was once again outpaced by cellulosic fibers (share
6 %) lifting output by 2.7 %. Cellulosic fibers steadily grew between 2010 and
2018 with a CAGR of +6.1 %.

1.5 Classification of Textile Fibers:

1.6 Characteristics of Fiber Forming Polymer:


A fiber forming polymer should poses some feature. Some of them are
 Optimum mole mass and its distribution
 Linear polymer chain
 Inter bonding of molecular chain.
 Shear, tensile, compression force and elongation.
 Visco-elastic nature
 Functional group.

1.7 Surface Topology of Different Textile Fiber:


The outer surface of natural fibers are variable. Cotton is convoluted, jute and flax
are bonded, Wool has scale and silk is smooth at outer surface. Here the topology
of different fibers are given.

Fig: Longitudinal and X-section View of cotton fiber.


Fig: Longitudinal and X-section View of jute fiber.

Fig: Longitudinal and X-section View of Flax fiber.


Fig: Longitudinal and X-section View of wool fiber.

Fig: Longitudinal and X-section View of Silk fiber.

1.8 Morphology of Textile Fibers:


Fiber Morphology is the study of individual fibers within a particular material, and
this gives an indication of its possible performance in a number of situations. The
shape of individual fibers is a key element of this, as it demonstrates the way that
the material will hold its shape when under a certain amount of pressure. The
individual fiber dimensions can also be analyzed, and this can show how the
product can be broken down after use. The same scientific principles can be
applied to paper and cardboard, giving manufacturers the best possible solution
when creating packaging for a wide variety of items. Some other physical
properties are strength, flexibility, moisture, dye behavior.
 Crystalline and Amorphous:
1. Crystallinity refers to the degree of structural order in a solid. In a crystal,
the atoms or molecules are arranged in a regular, periodic manner. The
degree of crystallinity has a big influence on hardness, density,
transparency and diffusion.

2. Lacking definite form; having no specific shape; formless:


the amorphous clouds. of no particular kind or character; indeterminate;
having no pattern or structure; unorganized: an amorphous style;
an amorphous personality.

Fig: crystalline and amorphous zone.

1.9 Sources of Textile fiber.


1.9.1 Natural Fibers:
Natural, plant-based textile fibers come from seed hair, such as cotton; from
foliage, such as sisal; from the stem, such as linen; and some fibers come
from shells, such as coconut.

 Cotton
Cotton grows in balls around the plant seeds and it is pure cellulose. Cotton
is the natural textile fiber most widely used around the world and it is
certainly the main protagonist in the global textile industry. There are two
exceptional varieties of the highest quality: Egyptian cotton and Peruvian
Pima.
 Flax
Linen is one of the strongest plant-based fibers in nature; therefore it was
one of the first to be grown, woven and knitted to
manufacture clothing and accessories. There are different types of linen
based on their species. The main types are: common flax and perennial flax.
 Jute
Jute is extracted from the stem of a plant with the same name and it is
very easy to grow and harvest. Jute is one of the cheapest fibers to
produce. This fiber is also known as “golden fiber” because of its glow.
Jute is one of the strongest, plant-based natural fibers, and it is second to
cotton in terms of production volume.
 Wool
A limited supply and its exceptional qualities have made wool the most
widely used animal-based textile fiber in the fashion and textile industry.
Wool is a fiber with curly appearance, elastic, soft to the touch, which easily
absorbs moisture and has an extremely low rate of heat release. These last
few characteristics make woolen garments comfortable and warm.
 Silk
In many people’s eyes, silk is still “the queen of fabrics”. Silk is a protein
filament produced by the silk worm. Feeding on mulberry leaves, the worm
produces liquid silk that once solidified forms the filaments to build its
cocoon. Then, once the larva is dead, heat is used to soften the hardened
filaments and to unroll them. These individual filaments are later intertwined
into one single filament to form the silk yarn.
1.9.2 Man-Made Fiber:
All the man made fiber are regenerated from natural source of synthesis
from polymer.

1.10 Difference Between Textile Fiber and Other Material.


Fiber Other Material
They are formed by polymerization Not so formed
process.
Composed of molecular chain Not so composed
Have large molecular weight Relatively small molecular weight
Insoluble in water Can be soluble or not
Interaction or bonding between Covalent bond, ionic bond.
molecular chain( H-bond, van-der-
wales-bond)

1.11 Primary Properties of fiber:


A fiber have to exhibits some essential physical and chemical property. Some
of them are listed below.
 Fiber length.
 Length to width ratio
 Tensile property
 Elasticity
 Flexibility
 Elastic recovery
 Cohesiveness
 Chemical composition
 Wet ability
 Dye ability
 Density
 Handle
Secondary or auxiliary property:
 Resiliency
 Toughness
 Work of rupture
 Uniformity
 Crimp
 Fineness
 Color
 Maturity
 Fiber friction
 Moisture recovery
 Drape
 Abrasion resistance
 Chemical resistance
 Electrostatic property.
1.12 Equation for determination of fiber properties:
1) Tenacity = Load required to break the specimen / Linear density of the
specimen Unit: gm/denier, gm/Tex, N/Tex, CN/Tex etc.
2) Breaking extension;
The elongation necessary to break a textile material is a useful quantity. It
may be expressed by the actual percentage increase in length and is termed
as breaking extension.
Mathematically, Breaking extension (%) = (Elongation at break / Initial
length) × 100%
3) Stress = Fa ( Force applied)/ Af ( X-section area of fiber).
4) Breaking Stress = Fa ( Force applied upto break)/ Af ( X-section area of
fiber).
5) Modulus= Stress / Strain
6) Resiliency= Comprehensive stress / Comprehensive Strain
7) Work of Rupture:
Work of rupture is defined as the energy required to break a material or total
work done to break that material. Unit: Joule (J).
Work of Rupture = Breaking force* Breaking Extension.
8) Slenderness Ration = Fiber length / Fiber diameter
9) Moisture Content = ( Mn-Mov) / Mn
Moisture Regain= ( Mn-Mov) / Mov
Where Mn= Normal weight
Mov = Oven Dry weight

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