Seams Notes

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 2

Seams

A seam is the joining of two or more pieces of fabric together


Categories of Seam
● Enclosed Seams- raw edges are hidden in the seam allowance
● Exposed Seams- the edges of the seam are visible.
Types of Seams
● Plain Seam​- a flat seam made by a single machine stitch that is invisible on the right side
of the garment.
● French Seam​- a strong but bulk seam. The edges are hidden in the seam allowance and
two stitches are used to make the seam but only one is visible (this is on the wrong side).
● Double-Stitched Seam​- this is a flat seam used on light and medium weight fabrics. The
raw edges are enclosed and both stitches are visible on the right side.

Seam Finishes

Reasons for using Seam Finishes


● It prevents raw edges from fraying
● It strengthens the seam
● It gives a neat, professional look to the garment
Seam Techniques
● Trimming​- is cutting away some of the seam allowance. This is done when the full width
of the seam allowance would interfere with the fit of the garment.
● Grading​- is the cutting of seam allowance to different widths. The widest part of the
seam allowance should be nearest to the garment. This technique is used to reduce bulk
and allows the seam to lie flat. Another name for grading is layering.
● Clipping​- is used on curved seams to allow them to lie smooth. Clips are slits cut into the
seam allowance of outward curves which allows the edges to spread.
● Notching-​ is cutting wedges from seam allowance of inward curved seams. This
technique also allows the seam to lie smoothly.
● Under-stitching​- keeps a facing and its seam-line from rolling to the right side of the
garment. This is done by placing the right side of the seam up and stitching through the
facing and seam allowance while staying close to the seam-line.
Seam Terms
Seam Allowance​- is the extra fabric beyond the stitching line before treatment.
Seam Width​- is the extra fabric beyond the stitching line after treatment.
Required Seam Widths
Open 1/2”
Curves ¼”
French ¼”
Closed ¼”

Types of Seam Finishes

● Pinked-​ cut along the edge of the seam allowance with pinking shear.

● Stitched & Pinked​- using a short stitch, place a line of stitching ¼” from edge of seam
allowance then pink edge.

● Overcast​- using single thread, make overcast stitches at the edge of each seam allowance
slightly more than 1/8” in depth and spaced ¼” apart.

● Zig Zag​- trim seam allowance to ½”, set sewing machine on a medium width and short
length zig zag. Stitch on the edge of seam allowance.

● Turn and Stitch​-turn under edge of seam allowance 1/8”, press and stitch along the edge
of the fold.

● Bias Bound-​ trim seam edges; wrap bias tape around raw edges, and then stitch close to
the edge of top fold catching underneath fold in stitching.

Factors that Determine the Choice of Seams


● The texture of the fabric- fine and loosely woven fabrics that fray badly should be
enclosed to prevent unraveling of the fabric
● The type of garment- clothes that are hard wearing need seams that can withstand strain
in wear and laundry eg. Double-stitched seam
● The shape if the seam- it is difficult to sew corners and curved areas with certain types of
seams (French seam). A plain seam would more suitable
● The position of the seam- straight edges, like the side seams of shirts and blouses, are
more suited to French seams than the curved armhole of the same garment.

You might also like