Martín

Fruit Puree Lippo:

Recipes
by Martin
a taste for theLippo
unknown
 MartinLippo
Director of Vakuum, Barcelona & Les vergers Boiron Consultant.

Martin Lippo is the head of Vakuum in Barcelona,

a cutting-edge laboratory for experimental cuisine and teaching.
 Mandarin, chilli Production

and ginger soda

Growing up in Argentina, we were allowed to
buy only one liter of soda on week-ends, and
this had to be shared between three siblings. Put the Mandarin puree in
With this memory in my mind, I wanted to a blender jug.
revive the traditional soda siphon, since it is Add ginger, syrup and chilli.
quite uncommon nowadays. By using this, you
can introduce carbon dioxide bubbles into
a sweet and fresh beverage. In other words,
you can make your own range of sodas. This
is a simple and versatile technique with a
great potential for hotel terraces for instance.
Additionally, this solution is healthiest than
manufactured sugar-sweetened beverages.

This technique does not work with all kinds of Another option consists in using an espuma Blend.
ingredients. In my opinion, it shouldn’t be used siphon instead of the usual soda siphon. Just
Fine strain.
with dairy products, chocolate or coffee. In pour the beverage in the siphon, charge with a
such cases, the bubbly sensation makes it feel CO2 cartridge, shake well and set aside in the
like the product is fermented and damaged. fridge. Next, with the head upwards, press the
On the contrary, fruit pulps accepts carbon trigger to release the extra gas. Then, you can
dioxide really well. We made some sodas such charge with another gas cartridge. Repeat, shake
as apricot tea, menthol-flavor water, white wine and release the extra gas. Lastly, remove the
with spices or mead. In this recipe, we opted for siphon head and pour the carbonated beverage
a citric-ginger mixture with a spicy note. The end into a glass. This method is often used in modern
Fill a soda siphon.
result is an exotic carbonated beverage that will mixology.
Insert CO2 cartridge.
be popular in Asia as well as in the Caribbean or
in Africa. Shake well.
Let it rest in the fridge at 4°C for 2h.
It is best to carbonate cold beverages since the
CO2 will dissolve easily into the liquid. Ideally,
the beverage should be only 2-3ºC above the
freezing point.

Ingredients
Serve with ice and garnish
with fresh chilli
Les vergers Boiron
100% Mandarin puree ............................................ 800 g Seedless chopped chilli ............................................................. 1
TPT syrup ....................................................................................... 50 g Gas cartridge for soda ................................................................. 1
Peeled, chopped ginger ..................................................... 15 g

1 2
 Kalamansi and Mango Production

emulsified sauce
This is another suggestion to divert purées from
the daily use. In this case, we will prepare a
fruity sauce with an Asian touch while showing
the perks of xanthan gum and lecithin when Put the mango puree in
stabilizing and emulsifying without using egg. a measuring jug.
Over the last years, this texturizer have grown
more popular; however we still need to show
how to use them and what results they may
achieve.

Add kalamansi puree.

Add ginger, chili pepper, Jang
sauce, garlic and coriander.

Xanthan gum is produced from the fermentation In this case, we also use lecithin because it helps
of cornstarch by the bacteria Xanthomonas emulsifying the fat with the liquid. We end up Mix using a hand blender.
campestris. Thus it is suited for vegans. with a very stable emulsion that stays good for a
Fine strain.
week in the fridge.
Among the many advantages of the xanthan
gum, it enables a great stability over a wide pH
range. Moreover, it dissolves into hot and cold
liquids, which allows us to work with fruit without
applying heat. This is interesting as it does not
alter the taste.

Add Xanthan gum and lecithin.

Mix using a hand blender.

Ingredients

FOR THE EMULSIFIED SAUCE

Les vergers Boiron Add sesame and sunflower oils
100% Mango puree.................................................... 100 g Garlic ..................................................................................................... 4 g in a thin stream while emulsifying
Ground coriander seeds ....................................................0,3 g with a hand blender.
Les vergers Boiron
100% Kalamansi puree.............................................. 40 g Xanthan gum .............................................................................0,5 g Store in small plastic bottles.
Ginger .................................................................................................. 4 g Lecithin ............................................................................................... 2 g Serve with pork bao buns.
Seedless red chili pepper ......................................................... 1 Sunflower oil ........................................................................... 150 g
Jang sauce ................................................................................... 20 g Roasted sesame oil.................................................................. 15 g

13 14
 Raspberry tartlet Production

A bakery or kitchen’s reality defines the most

appropriate elaboration process, taking into
account time and staff. As a matter of fact,
my experience has taught me the importance
Mix egg and cornstarch.
of time and speed when cooking. According
to pastry orthodoxy, the traditional method Pour the raspberry puree, the
butter, sugar and citric acid
for making lemon curd requires not heating
in a saucepan.
excessively butter and eggs. Keeping in mind
the kitchen’s reality, I wanted to teach an
equally effective method but far quicker and
easier, which is heating the mixture while
blending. I was also interested in showing the
curds’ versatility by using different fruit purées,
including non-citrus flavors. For this tartlet, for
instance, we chose a raspberry curd.
Bring to a boil.
Add eggs while mixing with a
hand blender.

It’s possible to work with curds flavored with An interesting way for using a different texture
mango, strawberry or raspberry. You just need to that may be frozen or at room temperature.
add this acid touch to the recipe. We add citric
acid then. Continue mixing until cooked.

The tartlet is topped with crushed nitro raspberry,

which results from freezing raspberries in liquid
nitrogen and crushing them with rolling pin.

Cover with cling film.

Cool at 4°C.
Serve on sweet tartlet shell, cover
with crushed raspberry, finish with
small mint leaves.

Ingredients

Les vergers Boiron

Raspberry puree ........................................................ 180 g Citric acid .......................................................................................... 4 g
Butter ............................................................................................. 150 g Eggs ................................................................................................ 180 g
Sugar ................................................................................................150 g Cornstarch...................................................................................... 10 g

25 26
 Kalamansi bearnaise Production

sauce
In too many occasions, an ingredient finishes
framed within the sweet or salty world
and its potential is hardly investigated
independently of that border. After touching Prepare a bain marie at 95°C.
both worlds, I have focused on many
occasions to demonstrate the versatility of the
ingredients, as in this case the fruit purees.
Usually associated with pastry, they can open
interesting paths to the world of cooking.
To prove it, we have prepared this unique
«béarnaise», a classic sauce that for years was
very present in the professional kitchen, but
that lately had gone out of style. Place egg yolks in a metal bowl.
Place in the bain marie.
Whisk egg yolks.

The béarnaise is a French sauce with almost grown in Southeast Asia. It is characterized by its
two centuries of history. It mainly combines egg, acid and fragrant notes, very interesting in the
Add butter in a thin stream at 50°C.
shallot, vinegar, butter and tarragon. To vary its savoury world.
Keep emulsifying.
flavour while remaining faithful to its technical
In this preparation, you can use other aromatic
essence, we concentrated on replacing the acid
fruits such as yuzu, bergamot or passion fruits.
part with kalamansi and the aromatic part with
chilli and coriander.

Purees offer a wide range of flavours to customize

sauces. Kalamansi is a citrus fruit that is widely

Add the juice while whisking.

Add salt, chili and cilantro to taste.

Ingredients Serve with steamed lobster,

topped with cocoa nibs and pine
Les vergers Boiron sprouts.
100% Kalamansi puree ............................................. 80 g Salt .......................................................................................................... 1 g
Egg yolks ..................................................................................... 180 g Red chili ............................................................................................. 7 g
Clarified butter ........................................................................ 200 g Cilantro ............................................................................................ 10 g

33 34
 Morello Cherry espuma Production

We offer different training courses about

espumas and there is still a large demand for
knowledge from professionals. For this reason,
coming from where I do, classic espuma,
which originated in the haute cuisine in 1994, Place the puree, sugar, water and
could not be absent from the suggestions of xanthan gum in a measuring jug.
this book to illustrate how versatile and easy Mix with hand blender.
it is. Although we could have used gelatin or
xanthan gum only, we made a mix of both.
Stabilizing with gelatin only will create a denser
shaving cream-like texture while just using
xanthan gum will bring a smoother result suited
for cocktails.

Melt the gelatin mass

in microwave..
Mix all ingredients with a hand
blender.

Instead of hydrating gelatin every time they As a thickener, one of the perks of xanthan gum is
need it, pastry chefs make their own gelatin that it can be used hot and cold, thus preserving Fine strain.
mass, ready for use. I recommend this method the fruit flavor. Fill a 0.5L siphon and insert
to chefs in order to shorten preparation time gas cartridge.
Espuma must be plated just before serving. It will
while still getting the same results since there Keep at 4°C for 2h before use.
start losing its texture after 10 minutes.
is an accurate measurement for rehydrating
gelatin (usually 1:5 – 1:6 depending on the type of
gelatin).

In a glass, place some fresh

strawberries, blueberries
and raspberries.
Add wild strawberry sorbet,
chantilly cream, hard meringue
and top with morello cherry
espuma.
Serve immediately.

Ingredients

Les vergers Boiron

Morello cherry puree ............................................. 350 g Xanthan gum ............................................................................. 0,5 g
Sugar ................................................................................................ 60 g Gelatin mass .............................................................................. 18 g
Mineral water .............................................................................. 25 g Gas cartridge ...................................................................................... 1

35 36
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