Dart Manipulation

Download as docx, pdf, or txt
Download as docx, pdf, or txt
You are on page 1of 4
At a glance
Powered by AI
The passage discusses the 10 different styles of darts that can be used on a basic front bodice including the standard waist dart and French dart.

The 10 styles of dart are: 1) Standard waist dart 2) French dart 3) Armhole dart 4) Mid shoulder dart 5) Centre front bust dart 6) Centre front neck dart 7) Straight side seam dart 8) Shoulder tip dart 9) Mid neck dart 10) Centre front waist dart.

The standard waist dart is a vertical dart from the waistline up to the bust point. It is one of the key darts used for manipulating fabric around the bodice.

There are 10 styles of dart on the basic front bodice.

These are fixed


locations that we would transfer a dart from and to:
1. Standard waist dart
2. French dart
3. Armhole dart
4. Mid shoulder dart
5. Centre front bust dart
6. Centre front neck dart
7. Straight side seam dart
8. Shoulder tip dart
9. Mid neck dart
10. Centre front waist dart
Standard Waist Dart Position

The standard waist dart is a vertical dart from the waistline up to the
bust point.

It is one of the key darts used for manipulating fabric around the
bodice.

The standard waist dart can be divided into two or three darts and
sewn as darts, external pleats or tucks, for some style variations
– we’ll cover that in a later tutorial!
French Dart Position

The French dart is a diagonal dart from the side seam up to the bust
point.
It is created by transferring the excess in the waist dart into a dart at
the lower side seam – usually 2-3 inches up from the waistline.
The French dart is often found on silk tops for a more ‘finished’ look.
Armhole Dart Position

The armhole dart is a diagonal dart from the mid armhole down
towards the bust point.
This is quite a popular dart, used to shape tops and blouses around the
bust that then fall straight down or into a flared hem.
Mid-Shoulder Dart Position

The mid-shoulder runs from the middle of your shoulder, down to the
bust point.
Centre Front Bust Dart Position

The centre front bust dart is a horizontal dart from the centre front
towards the bust point.
If the pattern is cut on the fold, this dart becomes a fish-eye dart,
running horizontally.

This dart is often manipulated to create a little gathering on the centre


front rather than an actual dart.

It can also be used to create a bib or yoke effect on tops and dresses.
Centre Front Neck Dart Position
The centre front neck dart is a diagonal dart from the centre front
down to the bust point.
It is often used as part of a style-line to suppress the fabric in an
interesting way.
Straight Side Seam Dart Position

A straight side seam is a horizontal dart from the side seam towards
the bust point – the least used dart by me when I’m working on dart
manipulation!
I also see it very rarely in current fashion, so might be one to steer
clear of!
Shoulder Tip Dart Position

The shoulder tip dart is a more dramatic diagonal dart from the
shoulder tip, running in and down, to the bust point.

Using a dart int his position is tricky, because you do end up with a
very thin section of the bodice pattern next to the shoulder.

that said, if you were planning a bodice with the sleeve factored in – a
kimono top or batwing top! – then the shoulder tip dart will work very
well!
Mid-Neck Dart Position

A mid-neck dart – from the middle of the neck down to the bust point
– is often used to open up the neckline and add fullness in the form of
gathers around the neckline.
It can also be used to create front yokes and bibs on blouses or shirts.
Centre Front Waist Dart Position

The centre front waist dart is manipulated from the centre waist to run
diagonally from the waistline at centre front, up to the bust point.

You can see from the various overview images above that in the
examples, the dart is drawn as a straight line on the bodice outline.

You might also like