Dart Manipulation
Dart Manipulation
Dart Manipulation
The standard waist dart is a vertical dart from the waistline up to the
bust point.
It is one of the key darts used for manipulating fabric around the
bodice.
The standard waist dart can be divided into two or three darts and
sewn as darts, external pleats or tucks, for some style variations
– we’ll cover that in a later tutorial!
French Dart Position
The French dart is a diagonal dart from the side seam up to the bust
point.
It is created by transferring the excess in the waist dart into a dart at
the lower side seam – usually 2-3 inches up from the waistline.
The French dart is often found on silk tops for a more ‘finished’ look.
Armhole Dart Position
The armhole dart is a diagonal dart from the mid armhole down
towards the bust point.
This is quite a popular dart, used to shape tops and blouses around the
bust that then fall straight down or into a flared hem.
Mid-Shoulder Dart Position
The mid-shoulder runs from the middle of your shoulder, down to the
bust point.
Centre Front Bust Dart Position
The centre front bust dart is a horizontal dart from the centre front
towards the bust point.
If the pattern is cut on the fold, this dart becomes a fish-eye dart,
running horizontally.
It can also be used to create a bib or yoke effect on tops and dresses.
Centre Front Neck Dart Position
The centre front neck dart is a diagonal dart from the centre front
down to the bust point.
It is often used as part of a style-line to suppress the fabric in an
interesting way.
Straight Side Seam Dart Position
A straight side seam is a horizontal dart from the side seam towards
the bust point – the least used dart by me when I’m working on dart
manipulation!
I also see it very rarely in current fashion, so might be one to steer
clear of!
Shoulder Tip Dart Position
The shoulder tip dart is a more dramatic diagonal dart from the
shoulder tip, running in and down, to the bust point.
Using a dart int his position is tricky, because you do end up with a
very thin section of the bodice pattern next to the shoulder.
that said, if you were planning a bodice with the sleeve factored in – a
kimono top or batwing top! – then the shoulder tip dart will work very
well!
Mid-Neck Dart Position
A mid-neck dart – from the middle of the neck down to the bust point
– is often used to open up the neckline and add fullness in the form of
gathers around the neckline.
It can also be used to create front yokes and bibs on blouses or shirts.
Centre Front Waist Dart Position
The centre front waist dart is manipulated from the centre waist to run
diagonally from the waistline at centre front, up to the bust point.
You can see from the various overview images above that in the
examples, the dart is drawn as a straight line on the bodice outline.