The Bagrielle Snuggy

Crochet pattern

by les.terribles
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The Bagrielle Snuggy

Thank you so much for your interest in my work. The Bagrielle Snuggy was named after my middle sister, I

promise it is filled with love and calmness.

Please, note that this pattern is for personal use only. You may sell the finished product, but this pattern, or

any parts of it, are not to be shared, translated, sold, published, reproduced as any form of tutorial

(including video), or claimed as your own.

Use the hashtag #Bagriellesnuggy to share your progress with me on instagram!

Merci beaucoup,

Alex la Terreur

Material
Abbreviations
wrong side

Size 6 yarn, I suggest bernat blanket or parfait chunky!

7.00 mm hook for ribbing ;
8.00 mm hook for the body ;
Sewing needle ;
Stitch markers.

right side
This pattern uses US terms.

Ch: Chain Yardage

Sts: Stitch
Slst: Slip stitch
I added an extra 100m. If you plan on making the snuggy
Blo: Back loop only longer, I highly suggest getting a little more to be sure!
Sc: Single crochet
Mo: Moss XSmall-Small: 1100m
Inc: Increase (put 2mo into the same space) Medium-Large: 1200m
Dec: Decrease (mo 2 stitches together) Xlarge-2XLarge: 1400m
Fsc: Foundation single crochet 3XLarge- 4XLarge: 1500m
5XLarge: 1600m
WS/RS: Wrong side/Right side
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Sizes and stuff

Gauge
The gauge is a quick swatch to make sure that you have the same tension as me with the hook and yarn you're using. If it's off,

the measurement won't be the same as the pattern suggest (this means it's useless to test it! So the gauge for this pattern is

5mo (sc, ch1 and skip the next stitch working in the ch1 space from the row below) per 7 rows. You should get a 10x10cm square.
The pattern is pretty simple. As the following
I understand that the foundation double crochet (fsc) might graph shows, just repeat row 2 to 5:
be hard if you have never done it before. Please consider this
excellent tutorial by TL Yarn Craft (click here). Make sure that
you check your tension often!

Row 1: Fsc10, do 5mo across.

Ch1 (This ch is called the turning chain) and turn.
***Alternative for fdc: Ch11. Start in 2nd ch from hook and do 10 sc.
Ch1 and turn.
Row 2: Skip the first sts. Do 5mo. Ch1 and turn.
The last mo should be in the turning ch.
Row 3-7: repeat row 2. Ch1 and turn at every row.

sizing
The following measurements might differ depending on your tension. I

used to never check my gauge (whoopsie), but if you haven't done it, DO

IT. Otherwise, these measurements are completely useless for you. Either

way, consider that the size might be +/- 5cm. The snuggy is meant to be

really loose with baggier sleeves.

It is extremely important that you try the snuggy as you are making it,

often. Especially when you get around the arm holes. You can easily adjust

if it's too big or too tight. There's no measurements for the length as it is up

to you (mine was 65cm long for reference).

If you have any troubles or are confused for some reason, send me a dm

on instagram or go to lesterribles.ca and send an owl my way (or an email,

if you're old fashion).

XS-S M-L XL-2XL 3XL- 4XL 5XL

Bust size 90cm 112cm 132cm 152cm 172cm

circumference

Arm hole 42cm 44cm 46cm 48cm 50cm

circumference

Sleeve
Length of sleeve
42cm 42cm 44cm 44cm 46cm
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the body
disclaimer Panel split
The body is made by working two (2) panels that we are

going to join later on. There's no bottom ribbing so tension

Back panel Front panel
is key here. Measure the length AND width of the panels

(often) to make sure that you're not crocheting

tighter/looser as you go. Do not hesitate to check your

gauge by measuring a 10x10cm square as you're are

making the snuggy. The moss stitch is not the tightest of

all, but changing your tension will have a considerable

impact on the finish look!

There's basically no extensions for this pattern, but it requires

a little adjustment on the front panel. With the 8mm hook:

Right side panel
body baby R1: With the 8mm hook and the right side facing out, keep

going with the moss stitch for half of the panel. You should
The great thing with this pattern is that you can customize it.
do 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22).
You like a mid-length? An underboob? A please-hide-my-
Repeat row 1 another 9 times for a total of 10 rows. Fasten off.
butt snuggy? Just keep going with the rows! Please consider

that the longer you go, the more yarn you need. Anyhoo,

there's no ribbing, so let's get started. With the 8mm hook:

Left side of
front panel
Back panel
R1: Ch/fsc 46 (56, 66, 76, 86). Ch 1 & turn.
R2: 23mo (28, 33, 38, 43). Ch 1 & turn.

Repeat R2 until you are satisfied with the length. I did 50 rows.

Front panel
The front panel is the same than the back, but you need to

stop 10 rows before the end. For example, if you did 50 rows
Left side panel
for the back panel, you should stop at the 40th row (we need
With the RS facing you
to make a panel split). With the 8mm hook: R1 : Attach the yarn into the middle of the panel with a slst. Sc

into the same space. Ch1. This counts as the first mo. Do

R1: Ch 46 (56, 66, 76, 86). Ch 1 & turn. another 11mo (13, 16, 18, 21) for a total of 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22). Ch1

R2: 23mo (28, 33, 38, 43). Ch 1 & turn. and turn.
R2 : 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22). Ch1 and turn.
Repeat row 2 until you have 10 rows left. Don't fasten off. Repeat row 2 another 8 times for a total of 10 rows. Fasten off.

With the WS facing OUT, and the 8mm hook, sc into both the

attaching shoulders ch1 space and the sc for 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11). You should have

12sc (14, 18, 20, 22) on both sides.

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sleeves and cuffs

sleeves

The sleeves are worked in round because if there's something more annoying than ribbing, it's sewing lol. Lay your work flat

with the RS facing OUT. Put a sts marker into the sc were the panels were joined. From there to your right, count 22 rows (28,

32, 38, 42). Put a sts marker. Do the same thing on the other side (you should have 3 sts marker, one in the middle and one on

each side). With your bigger hook (8mm), insert your hook in the first sts marker to your right. Remove the sts marker.
R1: Do 1mo were the sts marker was, and put the sts marker into the new mo. Keep going for another 10mo (13, 15, 18, 20).

Remove the sts marker in the middle and put a mo (discard the sts marker). Keep going with another 10mo (13, 15, 18, 20).

Remove the last sts marker and put a mo (discard the sts marker). Slst into the first mo (remove the sts marker and discard

it) to attach panels together. Ch1 and turn.

R2 to 24: 23 mo around (29, 33, 39, 43).
***Feel free to make the sleeves longer or shorter by adding or subtracting rows.
R25: Dec, 19 (25, 29, 35, 39), dec. You should have 21 mo (27, 31, 37, 41).
R26: Dec, 17 (23, 27, 33, 37), dec. You should have 19 mo (25, 29, 35, 39).
R27: Dec, 15 (21, 25, 31, 35), dec. You should have 17 mo (23, 27, 33, 37).
R28: Dec, 13 (19, 23, 29, 33), dec. You should have 15 mo (21, 25, 31, 35). The next row will prepare the wrist for the cuff.
Row 29: Alternate between sc and dec by working into the sc and ch1. Fasten off.

Making the cuffs Join the panels

Using the smaller hook (7mm) and the RS facing OUT: Use the 7mm hook to join the panels

Step 1: Attach the yarn to the wrist with a slst. Ch6 and start in 2nd ch. by sc them together. If you want a

Step 2: Sc in the BLO of next 5 sts for a total of 5 sts. better looking bottom edge, you can.

Step 3: Instead of joining where you started step 1, slst the next 2 sts
Lay your work flat with the RS facing

together (decrease). Finally, do a slst. Turn. OUT, the neck facing down and the

Step 4: Do NOT ch 1. Skip the dec and the slst you just did. Sc in BLO
back of the pullover on top. Use the

of the next 5 sts. Ch1 and turn. bigger hook (8mm) and attach the

Repeat step 2 to 4 until you went around the whole wrist. Close the
yarn with a sc in the middle of the

ribbing with the method you prefer. back. Sc around and close with an

invisible finish.
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hoo(w)d(y)

Forming the hood

So the hood might be a little unnecessary. If you don't want one, you can just sc around once or twice and add a couple of

boutons to look cute! If you want more inspirations, I suggest going to one of my tester's instagram, @kadcrochets, that's

what she did! It looks absolutely amazing and just as comfy.

#3 #4
#1

#2

Okay so the hood is a messy spot. I frogged this thing 100 times before remembering what I did lol. Follow the instructions

and pictures closely or you might get lost. With the RS of the snuggy facing OUT, have the neck facing up and the bottom

facing down (basically lay it down lol). Using the bigger hook (8mm), row 1 is made in two steps:
R1 step 1: Attach the yarn in the center (see #1) with a sc. Ch1 and sc into the next ch1 space (see #2). This forms the first mo.

Do 5 (6, 8, 9, 10) more mo for a total of 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11).

R1 step 2: Mo were the panels were joined (see #3). Next, alternate between mo and inc until you reach the other side (see

#4). Finish by doing 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11). You should have a total of 28mo (35, 40, 47, 53). Ch1 and turn.
R2 to 20: Mo around. Ch1 and turn at every end of row.
****You can add extra rows if you want a longer hood. Try the hood here.
R21: 12mo (15, 18, 21, 24), 2dec, 12mo (16, 18, 22, 25). (26, 33, 38, 45, 51). Ch1 and turn.
R22: Mo around. (26, 33, 38, 45, 51). Ch1 and turn.
R23: 10mo (12, 16, 19, 22), 3dec, 10mo (14, 16, 20, 23). (23, 29, 35, 42, 49). Ch1 and turn
R24: 6mo (10, 13, 16, 20) (dec, 1mo) x3, dec, 6mo (10, 13, 17, 20). (19, 25, 31, 38, 45).
Ch1 and turn.
R25-27: Mo around. (19, 25, 31, 38, 45). Ch1 and turn at every end of row.
With the WS facing OUT, fold the hood in half. Join with a slst or with a sewing
needle. Depending on the yarn you are using, slst might be too bulky so don't
hesitate to switch to the needle.

#1
To make the hood cute, use the smaller hook to do a row of sc around the edge
with the colour of your choice. I used the same colour for my wrist ribbing.
Start in the center (see #1).
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Pocket or not
pocket (not polly)
The testers and I all agreed that a pocket would make this thing a

LOT better. With the bigger hook (8mm):

R1: Do a fdc of 26 (36, 46, 56, 66).
R2 to 6: 13 mo (18, 23, 28, 33).
***If you did a longer body, make sure you increase the
number of rows here.
R7: Dec, 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29), dec. Ch1 and turn (11, 16, 21, 26, 31).
R8: 11mo (16, 21, 26, 31). Ch1 and turn (11, 16, 21, 26, 31).
R9: Dec, 7mo (12, 17, 22, 27), dec. Ch1 and turn (9, 14, 19, 24, 29).
R10: 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29). Ch1 and turn.
R11: 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29). Ch1 and turn.

Finishing round: You should now have the RS facing you. Sc

across the top and the first side. When you get to the fdc, dec

acrosss. You should have 13dec (18, 23, 28, 33). Sc across the

other side and join with a slst or an invisible finish.

Use stitch markers to hold the pocket onto the front of the snuggy. Sew the top and bottom of the pocket where you feel
comfortable. I sewed the bottom of my pocket on the 7th row from the bottom.

it's over, you can chill now

Yayyy! Congrats on finishing your bagrielle snuggy. If you encounter any issues or have trouble understanding any

parts of the pullover, don't hesitate to send me a dm on instagram at @les.terribles! Share your progress with me

using the hashtag #Bagriellesnuggy.

@kadcrochets @NativeCreativeCrafts @snitchesgetstitchescrochet @Emma_loops_crochet