Dewdrops Finishing Garments
Dewdrops Finishing Garments
Dewdrops Finishing Garments
Problems and Prospects of Finishing sector of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: A Case Study on Dew Drops Wash Works
Md.Mamunur Rashid ID#0621061
1.0. Introduction
The Textile Sector in Bangladesh moving fast. It starts in the late seventies as a minor non-traditional sector. It contributes about 75% of the total exports of the country. In 2007-08 this sector contributed to 13.5% of total Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and earned US$ 14.2 billion in which the contribution of RMG alone was US$ 10.4 billion. The sector creates lots of employment opportunity. About 1.6 million people woke there where 80% is women worker. In this sector create employment and help to solve unemployment problem in the country.
.Garments finishing sector includes dyeing and washing plant. Most clothing items that people wear have been finished. This idea of finishing means that it has gone under some process to alter or enhance it. It has been assumed that, there are about 4000 washing plants in Bangladesh among which 3000 is situated in Dhaka. However there were few number of washing plants before 90s.This situation changed in of 90s. Most of the washing plant situated Dhaka&Chittagong.
1.3 Objective:
Describe overall picture of finishing sector of textile industry. To get an overall idea on how to operate a washing plant. To observe and an idea of various finishing (washing) process. To chalk out the prospects and challenges that the washing plants are enduring
1.4 Scope:
The first part of this report contains garments washing process. The second part contains overview dew drops wash work, and washing procedure, management and company. In the conclusion the repot tries to indicate some suggestion which can help to increase productivity.
1.6.1. Methodology:
Methodology comprises of all the activities that is required to conduct the study and generate it
into a report. The methodology of this study has been described on the context of the following aspects- Problem identification, research design, sampling and data collection
From the view point of objective it is an Applied Research and from the view point of function
it is Descriptive Research that is concerned with an unvaried question. Again from the view point of research place it is both Field and Desk Research and last but not the least from the view point of Nature of Data it is also both Primary and Secondary research.
The RMG sector has a venerable history of about 25 years. RMG-led export growth is thought to have transformed the country from a predominantly aid-dependent country to a largely trade-dependent nation. Being a labor intensive sector coupled with provider of employment mostly to women, the RMG sector has had a strong influence on poverty alleviation and human development in Bangladesh.
Started contribution 1.1% in1982-1983 of the countries total export, and earning more than $10 billion in the fiscal year 2007-2008. In 1983-84, the total apparel exports of Bangladesh were only $31.57 million, 3.9% of total exports. During this period there were only 134 factories, which employed around 400,000 workers. The breakthrough occurred during 1985-86, when the number of factories increased to 594 and volume of export grew to $131.5 million. 5
Cumulative average growth rate(CAGR) grew at 40% during 1985-90.This sector total export $1018 billion. Export increased 64% and earning $2.2 billion in FY95.1995 cumulative average growth rate grew 29%. Export increased by 76% and earns $4.35 billion next five years. Several internal and external factors contributed to the phenomenal growth of the RMG sector. The key factor behind the growth was the quota regime under the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA). The General System of Preferences (GSP) facilities and RoO (Rules of Origin) offered by the developed nations also helped Bangladesh to accelerate its export. Bangladesh possessed a number of comparative advantages, growing share of local inputs (particularly in knit fabrics) and competence in mass-produced basic garments (such as knit cotton and woven cotton products), low labor costs compared to other Asian economies. The apparel industry also received support from the government, which is beyond warehouse facilities, tax holidays, zero tariffs on machinery input; export development fund, duty drawback facilities etc.The number of factories in our country increased by 4000 to 4.740 in FY04 to FY08, and also increased employment by 2 million to 2.5 million. The apparel faced many problems such as political instability, gas and power supply, hartals etc. Previous years the RMG sectors mostly depend upon imports. But the labor cost in here is low and it attracts the foreign investor to invest here. So such investment flourished backward and forward industry in Bangladesh. At present Knitwear required 85% meet by the backward industries. The knit sub-sector grew at a faster rate than the rest of the sub-sectors. During the period under review, the share of knit sub-sector grew from 15.14% of the total RMG export to 29.16%, whereas that of the woven sub-sector fell from 84.86% to 70.84%.(See Exhibit 1.3) The predominant reason for the faster growth of the Knit sub-sector is the extent of backward linkage that this sub-sector could achieve. A large number of composite knit garment manufacturers have emerged during this period that produce their own fabric, have their own dye houses and thus can compete very effectively in price and delivery lead time.
In June 2000 as indicated in Table 1.1, the sector consists of about 3000 RMG units producing 150 million dozen garments, 141 spinning mills (units) with a production capacity of 335 million kg of yarn, 117 weaving and composite mills with a capacity of 420 million meters of fabric, 282 dyeing, printing and finishing units capable of processing 677 million meters of woven fabric and 155 knitting, dyeing and finishing composite units capable of producing 225 million kg of knit fabric. Investment in the sector is gaining momentum. As many as ten spinning units and a number of composite knit fabric mills have been added to the sector in the year 2001 alone.
Product Yarn Yarn Grey PG Grey PG Yarn Grey PG Finished PG Grey Finished
Capacity 334,622,00 222,613,000 676,764,000 13,485,000 80,050,000 117,450,000 104,751,000 121,837,000 429,046,000 150,000,000 Kg Mtr Mtr Kg Mtr mtr Kg kg Mtr dz
155 &
2,048
1029
21,985
Grey PG RMG
Name Of Directors
Mr. Taybur Rahman (Chairman) Mr. Helal Uddin(Managing Director) Mr. Ahsanul Hoque. (Director). Mr. Chandan Dev. (Director). Mr. Ahsanul Hoque. (Director). Twill cotton pant, Denim Jeans Grinding, Sand Blasting, Hydro, Industrial Laundry, Tumbler dryer
WASHES
Acid wash, Normal wash, Enzyme stone wash, Enzyme Acid wash, Enzyme Silicon Wash, Bleach enzyme wash, Stone wash, Sand blasting
The company believes adding value by clean and fresh looking their garment product and makes it soft, comfortable to use.
2.3 Client:
Jarqs Reliance denim Ltd (Salim and Brothers Ltd) Aero Fashion Ltd Neox Denim Ltd Also work for Levis, Wal-mart, Marks and Spencer
2.5 Objectives:
Short term: Increase productivity 20% by year 2010 Increase profit volume 20% by year 2010 Long term: Market leader in the sector of washing plant by 2015.
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Stone wash Acid wash Sand Blasting Hand PP Grinding 2.7 Ownership: Ownership control among Taybur Rahman, Chandan Das, Ahsanul Hoque, Helal Uddin.Among them Taybur Rahman have own 70% and all rest of the member own 10% each.
Ownership
Chandan Dev , 10% Ahsanul Hoque, 10%
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2.9.2 Marketing Manager: Collect new order by convincing new clients. Collect sample from clients. Maintain long term customer relationship. 2.9.3 Operation Manager: Find out machine fault Ensure machine limitations are not exceeded 2.9.4 Accounts Manager: Preparing bill for client Preparing delivery receipt for client Calculate daily expenses and also prepare income statement 2.9.5 Chemicals use by Dew Drops: Enzyme: 1. Acid enzyme 2. Neutral Enzyme Acid: 1. Acetic acid 2. Oxalic acid Desizer: 1. Antiback 2. LP-30 Silicon softner Hydrogen Peroxide Sodium Hypochlorite Brightener :Red/Blue/white Dyeing color:Yellow,Black,Brown,Indigo,Orange Caustic Soda
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Then the garments are sent for wash. If the inspection fails the garments are put on hold while the client is advised. If no confirmation is received the garments are return to client. Then the garments are sent to the washing machines to wash. Different types of washes such as bleach washes, stone washes etc are under go there. After washing the garments are sent to the dryers for drying after the water is extracted from them. Processes like grinding, curing, hand-sanding, spraying, tying, painting also known as the special finishes are done in a separate area. The manual work done here is what most clients require and it is what adds value to the garment. Majority of the work force is involved in these manual processes. Grinding is the process where garments such as jeans are made to look old and worn by shredding the ends. Dew Drops has multi-skill program where employees acquire more than one skill, which helps the company to retain people. The final stop for a garment that had been through Dew Drops Finishing is the final dispatch area, where it will arrive after the washing, dyeing, finishing and inspection. When the garments are ready for dispatch, the client, on collection is required to count simultaneously with a Dew Drops Finishing representative, so as to avoid any conflict in the numbers. To run the full process large amount of water is required. There is a waste water treatment plant at Dew Drops Finishing which treats the water that is contaminated in the washing, dyeing and finishing of garments
Exhibit 2.2: Flow chart of Operating procedure of Dew Drops Wash works Ltd.
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2.9.11Wash Type: Enzyme Acid Wash Garments: Twill Cotton Phase: 1 First, the garments are put in the washing machine. Desizer LP-30(400gm) is used for removal of starch from the fabric or garments. Chemical 808(200gm) is then applied in the garments. The machine runs for 20 minutes. After that the used water are let out and new water is added to the system automatically. The garments are rinsed in fresh water for about 5 minutes. Phase: 2 Enzyme (300gm) is then added to the garments. The higher Ph value of the water hinders the effectiveness of the Enzyme .To reduce the ph level of water into tolerable level of 4.5-5 Acetic acid (400ml) is used.LP 30(200gm) is then added again followed with Chemical 808(200gm).The machine runs for 50 minutes. After that the used water are let out and new water is added to the system automatically. The garments are rinsed in fresh water for about 5 minutes. Phase: 3 Silicon softener (1500gm) is then applied to the garments. This softener makes garments supple and comfortable to wear .Machine runs for another 15 minutes. Phase: 4 The wet garments are squeezed and inserted into Hydro Extractor machine. This machine extracts 70-75% water from the freshly washed garments in about 10%. Phase: 5 The final step is to sent the garments into Tumbler Dryer. The dryer machine runs for an hour and the garments are ready for delivery
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surface, resulting in a decoration with a softer feel than it had prior to washing. The sandwashing process also removes a small amount of color from the fabric. The abrasion of the fabric causes fibrillation--fibers standing out or breaking loose from the printed ink film--which adds to the worn appearance of the finished garment. Hand sanding is done with a fine grain sand paper by hand. This allows you to be very precise on what gets sanded. Machine sanding is done by using a machine similar to one that you would use to sand down wood furniture in your home. 3.1.1.2 Stone Wash: Stone washing is done to give denim a worn out look. Today, stone wash remains a highly popular finish for jeans. All jean companies were offering some sort of vintage style denim, including stone wash. In order to stone wash jeans, the original way, they are washed with pumice stones (jeansinfo.org) Since the pumice stones have a rough surface they will scrap off a layer on the denim so that some of the white threads from the cloth will become more visible
Exhibit 3.2: Stone washed jeans Exhibit 3.1: Sand wash
appear naturally worn. However, this method for stone washing jeans is very hard on the denim fabric. Using the pumice stones shortens the life span of the jeans and has negative effects on the environment (novozymes.com). Also, it is hard to control the amount of wear and tear the fabric will undergo during this process. However, more importantly, there is a problem with disposing of environmental waste and grit caused by this process (ezinearticles.com). There is also an issue concerning the amount of water that must be used to achieve the desired stone wash finish. In order for the manufacturers to achieve this finish, the jeans must be thrown in the washer several times (novozymes.com). This is why manufacturers have come up with an alternative method to achieve the stone wash finish.
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Manufacturers to day use enzymes instead of stone, because enzyme method conserves water and strong the fabric. When the stones were being used, manufacturers would have to do a number of rinse cycles to achieve the desired stonewash finish. However, by using the enzymes, the same look can be achieved without the same negative effects on the environment. 3.1.2 Chemical Wash: 3.1.2.1 Acid Wash: The process of acid washing is more similar to that of stone washing. The process was named 'acid wash' as a marketing tool. Basically, acid wash technology uses chlorine to remove indigo dyes, which gives denim a lighter, more worn look. The process also reduces the stiffness of denim. Acid wash treatment creates significant contrasts in the color of the denim material. To create a random, irregular, patched and shaded, acid wash look, the dry denim cloth is first bleached. The material is then put into a rotating drum in close proximity with granulated pumice soaked with the prepared hypochlorites. This process fades the cloth both chemically, through bleaching, as well as
Exhibit 3.3: Acid washed jeans
mechanically, as the rough granules scrapes the fiber. After tumbling together for some time, the granules are removed and the cloth is washed and dried in order to neutralize any left over hypochlorites. 3.1.2.2 Enzyme Wash: An enzyme is a biological chemical compound that reduces complex organic compounds to simpler compounds. Enzyme wash is organic and non-harmful to the environment. Enzyme washing products are also much more potent than other laundry products, requiring people to use far less, in terms of volume. The main purpose of the enzyme wash is to make the denim appear worn, rugged, broken in and used. The enzymes are used in denim finishing as an alternative to stonewashing, meaning that stonewashes and enzyme washes are very similar, but the enzyme wash still has its advantages. Jeans tend to be softer with the enzyme wash as a result of the organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric from the cellulose
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3.2 Drawbacks of garments wash: There are some effects of garment washes. Enzyme wash, stone wash, acid wash are mainly create bad effects, because various types of chemical are use to wash the garments. Surface Abrasion: The physical process of garment washing can cause "pilling" on the surface of some knit fabrics. This is a normal result. If pilling is unacceptable by the client washer has to use a cellulose enzyme treatment. When properly applied, this enzyme can reduce or eliminate pilling caused by the garment dye process. Shrinkage: Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Make sure that after wash dimensions correspond with your requirements. The most frequently encountered are torque, identified by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing process. It is a condition that is considered "normal and accepted" in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate torque and, therefore, Style Source nor any other fabric manufacturer that we know of warrants against it in totality
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4.0 Findings:
SWOT analysis of Dew Drops Wash Works: 4.1.1 Strength: Permanent buyer: Permanent buyers are like angle to any business. Permanent buyers are less price sensitive and loyal. Dew Drops has been able to retain hood number of client who sent their garments regularly. Cheap supply of chemical: Mr. Taybur Rahman the director of Dew Drops has family business of chemicals. He brings chemicals to Dew Drops at minimum cost from his family business. Chemicals are very important of any wash plane. Dew Drops has been able to reduce cost of chemicals. Management skill: Good management is asset to any organization. Dew Drops has good managers who are hard working, motivated experienced, and honest. This management ability help the organization to get success. Sand blasting unit: Recently Dew Drops introduced a sand blasting unit. This machine is an excellent tool for making customizable shades on Denim. Sand blasting is very costly unit. Not to many factory have this machine. Dew Drops had to sub contract another wash plant for the sand blasting finishing .Now they are doing it themselves which is increasing their profit volume by eliminating subcontract cost.
Exhibit 4.1: Sand blasting plant
Goodwill: Dew Drops has a good reputation for small size plant. From the beginning the factory able to attract powerful buyers. Dew Drops qualitys high, from quality there is no compromise.
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4.1.2 Weakness: Child labor: Among the labors there is 30% are child labor whose age is 8 to 13 years. The reason for using child labor is very clear .They demand less payment, they are more obedient. Child labors are paid 1600 Tk monthly. Unfair labor practice: Eight hours of working per shift is standard. But Dew Drops do not maintain the standard. Dew Drops working shift is 12 hours a day. Workers do not get extra compensation for overworked. Health problem: Washing plants use lots of chemicals. Some of the chemicals are harmful to health. The workers of Dew Drops not followed proper safety measure. Boots and gloves are necessary to use in washing plants. These are absent in Dew Drops. So the worker suffers painful ulceration in hands and legs. No generator: Load shedding is common problem in Bangladesh. Generator is very important machine like washing plant. But short of capital Dew Drops is unable to get a generator in the factory. So when load shedding occurs the washing process is stop. While the factory has capacity to wash near about 20,000 units per day, they are only able to wash 7000-8000 per day on an average. Factory infrastructure: Factory infrastructure is very important factor in order to increase productivity. But Dew Drops Facility is not good. The temperature of the floor is always elevated to an intolerable degree (65c-70c) because of the heat emission of the dryer machine. There is no cooling system or fan here. Lighting of production floor is not good as required Worker shortage: The factory depends less on labors because the machines they use are semi to full automatic. Production manager says that they require only 10 men per shift including a supervisor. In the observation there were only 6 people on average available in the floor .This the reason of low wage rate. Male labor gets 2300 taka as monthly and female gets at best 2000 taka per month which is very low because the work hard. Labor
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turnover rate is very high because wages are not paying in time. So management always facing challenge to run the operation. Depend on outside buyer: Whole operation of washing plants depends on the Garments factories .If washing plant is fails to catch order from garments they are in deep trouble to meet the fixed cost that incur in a period
4.2 Opportunity:
Future growth opportunity: Garments sector in Bangladesh is booming within a global recession; Dew Drops is getting the full advantage of it. So one can only hope in first quarter of January 2010 when the recession is supposed to wear off the RMG sector would swell and Dew Drops would get hefty share of this windfall.
4.3 Threat:
Pollution: It is well known that Washing plant of finishing sector pollute the environment. Dew Drops also pollute the environment tremendously. Waste from this factory is supposed to be treated with in the Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) of the plant. However in practice, the ETP plant is offline and the sludge goes through the sewerage system untreated, that directly leads to the chaktai canal. In fact, the Karnaphuli river have become a dumping ground of all kinds of solid, liquid and chemical waste of bank-side population. Competition: Washing plant is a profitable sector so competition is becoming increases. There is about 4000 washing plant in our country. So it is easily understandable that competition is increasing. These competitors are detrimental to Dew Drops in several ways. First of all, they are driving away Dew Drops potential patrons. Furthermore they are reducing the profit margin of Dew Drops by charging lower than Dew Drops and thus lowering the total profitability of the sector.
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5.0 Recommendations:
5.1 For Micro Level (Dew Drops):
The overall working condition of Dew Drops Wash work is way below the standard of Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and International Labor Organization (ILO). For future growth of the factory the below mentioned steps should be adopted as soon as possible. Management-labor relations should be enhanced: Labors should treat fairly without any physical and psychological harassment. They should be given proper training, and wages in due time. ETP Plant: ETP plant should be operational for not only environmental cause but also for the sake of business itself. It is evident that within 3-4 years all textiles and other major water consuming industries would need to recycle their wastewater for primary use, since they won't get water from the bore well. That is why a cost effective, small, technically sophisticated ETP, with a provision for future recycling options, should be the only solution for the textile and other water polluting industries like Dew Drops. Abolition of child labor: Child labor should not be an option in the labor force. It is very unfair to work with child. Infrastructure should be improved: Good infrastructure can help any organization to increase productivity. Dew Drops should make investment to improve their infrastructure that can boost the overall productivity. The wash plant should install additional two exhaust fan. To improve the working condition at least four ceiling fan should be installed to keep the temperature level of the plant within tolerable limit
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universities have also initiated fashion designing courses. However, we are yet to see the results. Government and private sector authorities should develop this new sector to support product development as per consumer demand, promote our products in world markets Identifying new destinations: The apparel sector is vulnerable to any possible downturn in major export destinations. So new destination is very important to grow this sector. With in Asia Bangladesh exported$10 million to china, $15 million to Singapore and $20 million to Hong Kong, These are all new markets for Bangladesh. And also enhance our trade. It is important to remember that reaching new destinations is also closely linked with capacity. Hence, capacity development and proper utilization is also very important. Enhancing labor productivity: Enhancing labor productivity and efficiency is one of the greatest challenge. One of the prime causes behind low labor productivity is the prevailing labor shortage in the apparel sector. It is essential to up skill the labor force to derive optimum level of productivity and capacity utilization. Furthermore, major shifts in production technologies are factors that may seriously affect the competitiveness of manufacturers in Bangladesh. RMG entrepreneurs of Bangladesh. Addressing safety and security issues: It is important to ensure the safety and security in this sector. The productivity of the workers in our country's apparel sector is low compared to neighboring countries. So, productivity will not increase if we do not take any aggressive measures to address the safety and security issues. Minimum wage policy: In Bangladesh, as per the minimum wage policy, a new worker draws only $24 per month. After working for three months, the worker gets to draw $29 to $36 a month, whereas a skilled worker gets paid around $45 a month. Hence, the garment company owners need to offer a competitive, encouraging and engaging pay package to retain the workers and.
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5.3 Conclusion: Textiles and garments manufacturing, which emerged and flourished in England for decades, eventually became uncompetitive and migrated to Japan and Korea; eventually migrating there to lower wage countries like Bangladesh. This sector is not only helping the country's economy by earning significant amount of foreign exchange, but has also brought about a major shift in developing support industries, employment generation, and women empowerment. The government should come forward with policy agenda by offering competitive exchange rates, streamlining customs procedures, providing further incentives in bonded warehouse facility, developing infrastructure, improving port efficiencies and ensuring uninterrupted flow. Small washing plants like Dew Drops are now in the global war of skill and capability; it is the war of price and value maximization. And in this war the winner wins all the trust and confidence of the buyers. So it is imperative that, the Dew Drops with aid from government should shake off all of its incompetences and become a global standard washing plant.
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