4-square

Coffee Table
The versatility of this modular design makes it a valuable addition to the living
room whether you use the tables individually or in a group.
I’ve been wanting to build a coffee table you plenty of space with storage below. And while the legs look massive, each
for a long time, but I just couldn’t come To reclaim the floor space, all you need to one is simply a hollow, hardwood post.
up with a design that was right for the do is rearrange the four smaller tables as A pair of plywood brackets on the inside
room. The problem was, I wanted a large end tables, or move them out of the way. ties the legs to the frames.
table for the living room. But a conven- The top photo on the facing page shows The combination is strong and easy to
tional design would take up the space we how the individual, smaller units can be build. Well, it’s easy once you’ve tuned
often need when entertaining guests. pulled out of the group and used to suit up your table saw to cut spot-on miters,
A modular coffee table was the perfect your needs. You can use them as singles that is. There are a lot of them in this proj-
answer. The configuration in the photo or in pairs as required. ect. So taking the time to double-check
above shows what I mean. Having four The construction of the tables is pretty the angles on some scrap before you start
individual tables that can come together interesting, as well. Each table has two will pay big dividends down the road as
to form an attractive, larger table gives legs that support the cantilevered top. you tackle the different miters.

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 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
Decorative chamfer 40" W x 15#/4" H x 40" D
softens the edges Solid hardwood
of the frames frames, aprons, and
legs look great with
the addition
of contrasting
veneered panels

Tongue on the edges

of the plywood top
fits into a groove
Miters in frames in the frame
and legs employ splines
to help maintain alignment
during assembly

Paper-backed
veneer is
attractive
and easy
to apply

Support
Bottom panels fit brackets
into a rabbet in connect the
the base frame aprons to
the legs

One. Each table is an independent unit

that can be pulled away from the group
and used on its own as needed.

Foot pads hold furniture

glides that make the
tables easier to move

Plywood support
brackets attached
to the inside of the
leg posts add strength
to the table

Or Many. One option for putting the four tables together

puts the legs all on the outside edges. This gives you a large,
unobstructed space underneath the table for handy storage.

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 NOTE: For accurate spacing, place NOTE: Drill
a spacer block between the top SUPPORT countersunk a.
edge of the legs and the lower BRACKETS screw holes for NOTE: Support bracket
edge of the support brackets C #8 x 1"Fh assembly must be fully
(Figure 6, page 47) woodscrews seated against the inside
face of the leg post
to ensure that it's square
C

C
FIRST: Assemble TOP VIEW
the leg faces C !/2
to form posts A A
using splines C
in the corners A A
8&/8 A
A A B
LEG
FACE SPLINE
A B

GO
GO
2
C
b.
Online
nline 6
2!/2 1
Extras
C #/4
C C 1!/2
3
To find out how
to make the NOTE: Leg faces are
wedge tapering !!/16
SECOND: Install the corner made from #/4"-thick
sled, go to:
brackets in the posts with glue, hardwood. Support
WoodsmithSpecials.com using wedges to provide inside brackets are !/2" A
clamping pressure (Refer to plywood. Splines are SIDE VIEW
Online Extra for details) !/8"-thick hardwood

building the Leg Posts & Brackets

The four smaller tables that fit together that attach the legs to the top and bot- making the cuts. Figure 1 on the oppo-
to form the coffee table are all identical. tom table aprons. site page provides the details.
So you might want to make them all at LEG FACES. The method for making the A few years ago, I learned a great trick
one time. If you do this, make sure to legs is illustrated on the facing page. for getting perfect miters and bevels on
mark the pieces clearly to void confu- Take some time to choose blanks that the table saw. You start by cutting the
sion. It’s also a good idea to cut a couple match well in color and grain. Then cut bevels on each piece, leaving them still
extra pieces to use for saw setups. them to rough length. Be sure to leave just a bit wide. Then, nudge the fence in
The first step in building the coffee the leg blanks wide so you can bevel the just a hair and make a second pass, tak-
table is to make all of the legs. They edges. This operation simply requires ing just a skim cut on both edges. The
hold the L-shaped support brackets tilting the table saw blade to 45° and result is a perfect miter.

How-To: Cut Splines & Brackets 3

1 2
C
Cleat
C Rip
Spacer fence
board Blade
at 90°
Splitter

6"x 6"
a. END plywood a. END VIEW a. END VIEW
VIEW blank
!/8 1!/2

Plane stock to 45°

!/2" thick (the
width of
the splines)

Making Splines. To cut multiple 1⁄8"-thick Bevel the Brackets. With the bracket Final Shape. Raise the saw blade to full
splines, place a spacer board against the rip blank still square, bevel one edge of height and cut close to the inside line.
fence, 1⁄8" from the blade. each blank by setting the blade to 45°. Complete the cut with a hand saw.

46 ALL-TIME FAVORITE PROJECTS

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 SLOTS. Next up, you’ll cut the slot on
each mitered edge for the spline. The
How-To: Build Leg Posts Assemblies
splines provide extra strength to the joint,
but they’re not really necessary for this
long-grain to long-grain assembly. I used
1 Push
block 2 A
A Rip
the splines simply to keep the four faces Rip fence
aligned while I added the clamps. fence
Tilt blade
Once again, a test cut or two to get the 45°
END
blade height and fence position right are a.
a. END VIEW VIEW
!/8
in order (Figure 2). The placement of the 3
slot isn’t critical. It just needs to be consis- !/4
tent between all the mating pieces. Figure !/4
2a shows the ideal placement.
After cutting the first few, dry assemble
one of the legs to check for square and Cut Bevels. After making some test cuts to Slot for Spline. The position of the slot
for gaps in the corners. You’ll need eight verify that your blade is at 45°, bevel both must be the same for each leg, so don’t
pieces for a single table, and 32 if you edges of the four leg faces. move the fence between cuts.
build the whole coffee table, so it’s worth
3 4
Aux.
double-checking each step to minimize miter
the chances for gaps in the assemblies. fence
SPLINE. At this point, I cut all the splines
I needed for the entire project. You can
cut the spline pieces by just planing some
Splines 8&/8
stock to 1⁄2" thick and then ripping the
spline strips from the edge. You can see Stop block
what I mean in Figure 1 at the bottom of
the opposite page.
NOTE: Cut both leg
LEG ASSEMBLY. Now you can glue up the post assemblies with
same stop block setup
four faces of each leg post, as shown
in Figure 3 at right. The splines prove Assembly. The splines make assembly a Final Length. After the glue dries, trim
their worth here by making this a pretty breeze. You don’t need to worry about the one end of each post, then use a stop
straightforward task. After the glue dries, pieces shifting in the clamps. block to cut them to final length.
use a miter gauge on the table saw to
square up the ends and cut the legs to
final length (Figure 4).
5 Tapering
sled
6
Wedge blank Bracket
SUPPORT BRACKETS. Next up are the ply- is 14" long
wood brackets. Start by cutting some 1⁄2"
Leg
plywood into 6" x 6" squares and bevel
one edge of each (Figure 2 on the oppo- a. END VIEW !!/16"-thick
site page). The bracket pieces are mirror !/2 Wedge spacers

images of each other, so you’ll need one 1 Wedge

right and one left piece. Figure 3 on the Wedge
opposite page shows how I cut the brack- NOTE: Refer to
online extra, for 1 NOTE: Opposing
ets to final shape at the table saw. information wedges hold brackets
After that, drill countersunk screw about making tight while glue dries
tapering sled
holes in the locations shown in detail ‘b’
on the facing page. I assembled the brack- Wedges. Cutting the wedges to use as Glueup of Brackets. Using the wedges
ets by using painter’s tape to hold the clamps isn’t hard. You just need a tapering to clamp the brackets to the inside of
two pieces together at the bevel. Then just sled with a V-groove. the posts works great.
add glue and use an assembly square to
clamp them together at 90°.
WEDGES. Since clamps won’t reach inside for making wedges. See the Online Extra piece to space the bracket assem-
the legs, I needed a way to put pres- for the details. You’ll need to cut a pair of bly accurately and clamps to pull the
sure on the brackets while gluing them wedges to glue up each assembly. wedges together. I waxed the wedges
in place. I used the oldest trick in the Figure 6 shows the glueup process thoroughly to make sure they didn’t
book — wedges. Figure 5 shows a sled I used. As you can see, I used a scrap end up glued to the legs.

WoodsmithSpecials.com 47

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 #8 x 1" Fh
woodscrews a. Support
Leg
Support bracket
brackets TOP SECTION
VIEW
B
!/2 D D
Support bracket

D B SPLINE
D
D

#8 x 1" Fh woodscrews B

D TOP APRON
D
b. D

20 Support bracket
2&/8

D
D

Aprons set tight to

leg face assembly

NOTE: Splines are SECTION VIEW

made from !/2"-thick
NOTE: Aprons are D hardwood, ripped
made from #/4"-thick BOTTOM APRON to !/8" thick
hardwood glue up the aprons using the splines for

add the Aprons & Frames

alignment. After the glue dries, attach
each apron assembly to the bracket arms
with glue and screws. The photo below
With the leg post and support bracket to width, you can set up the table saw shows what each corner should look like
assemblies complete, you’re ready to for cutting more miters. The box below when you’re done.
move on to adding the hardwood aprons shows the steps for cutting them. After BASE FRAMES. I need to point out that there
and frames. The mitered aprons attach mitering one end, install a stop block are two slightly different frames on the
to the support brackets at the top and and miter the other end (Figure 1). The base of the table — an upper and a lower.
bottom with glue and screws. They also result should be dead-on accurate. Then The upper base frame has a shallow rab-
have splines in the miters to help add use the miter gauge to cut the slots for bet that holds the panel you’ll add later.
strength to the end grain joint. splines, as shown in Figure 2. And both frames are rabbeted on the out-
TOP & BOTTOM APRONS. The aprons are the Dry assemble the aprons and test the side edge to fit inside the bottom apron. I
most visible part of the tables other than fit over the arms of the brackets. Taking started with the lower base frame.
the top, of course. So taking a minute or the time to test the fit with a band clamp LOWER BASE FRAME. Begin by ripping the
two to select some attractive stock for is an important step in achieving gap-free frame pieces to final width, leaving them a
them is a good idea. After ripping it all miters. Once you’re satisfied with the fit, bit long so you can cut the miters. Then set

How-To: Make the Aprons

1 Stop
Aux. miter
fence 2 Aux. miter
fence
block
Rip D
fence
FIRST: Miter
one end of each
oversized blank D a. END VIEW

Tilt blade to 45° !/8

!/4 !/4

SECOND: Install stop block

and cut miter on opposite
end of blanks

Miters. With an auxiliary fence on the Spline Slots. With a similar setup to the Final Results. The apron assemblies
miter gauge, miter one end of the aprons, one you used on the leg posts, cut the 45° are attached to the upper and lower
then miter them to final length. slots for splines in the apron pieces. support brackets with glue and screws.

48 ALL-TIME FAVORITE PROJECTS

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 NOTE: Base frames and foot pads
are made from #/4"-thick hardwood
up the table saw to cut rabbets. The draw- G
Rabbet is
ing at right shows how the rabbets form mitered at
recesses for the veneered panels. square
ends of
Figure 1 in the box below illustrates an upper
E
easy way to cut consistent rabbets. All you G frames
need to do is install a dado blade set to
full width and then attach an auxiliary rip
fence on your saw. With the fence installed,
raise the blade and cut into the auxiliary
fence. This way, you can adjust the fence 17
and accurately set the width of a rabbet. G UPPER BASE FRAME
Figure 2 shows how I mitered the
pieces. As before, use a stop block to cut E
F
them to length. Test each piece for a good 1"-dia. 20 FOOT PAD
fit as you cut them. After that, glue up the furniture E 2
glide is centered
frame, chamfer the edges, and install it in on foot pad LOWER BASE FRAME
place inside the apron.
FOOT PADS. To raise the frames off the a. 3#/8
SECTION b. Leg INSIDE
#/8 #/4 VIEW CORNER
floor, I added foot pads in each corner of Mitered VIEW
!&/32 G rabbet
the base. After the glue dries on the frame %/8
G
assembly, you’re ready to cut four foot Foot pad is Bottom
flush with inside apron G
pads and drill centered counterbores for of bottom frame
the furniture glides. You can install the 3
pads as shown in detail ‘a’ at right, but E %/8 E
don’t install the glides yet. Wait until after E
1"-dia. F F
the table is finished. counterbore,
!/4"-deep !/8" chamfers Support bracket
UPPER BASE FRAME. The upper base frame
also starts with cutting the rabbets. But for
these pieces, you’re going to need a rab- This is done so the frame will fit around square ends to fit. But before you do that,
bet on the outside edges and a narrower the legs, and it requires a bit of finesse. you’ll need to miter the inside corner of
one on the inside edges. When they’re You’ll need to sneak up on the final length the rabbeted edge as shown in Figure 3
installed, the frame will fit over the apron to avoid gaps in any of the joints. below. Detail ‘b’ above shows the fit.
on the outside and create a space for the After cutting the rabbets, I cut the Now cut the square ends of the pieces
panel on the inside. mitered end of each piece, leaving the and test the fit. Check for seamless miters
The upper frame pieces are mitered pieces a hair long. This way, it’s easy to on one end and a tight fit against the leg
on one end and left square on the other. sneak up on a perfect fit by cutting the on the other as you glue them up.

How-To: Cut & Install Frame Sides 3 Aux. miter

fence set
to 45°

1 E
2 G

Aux.
Aux. miter
rip fence
fence
a. END VIEW a.
#/4
E
Miter
TOP cut to
!#/16" %/8 Set miter VIEW
gauge fence base of
dado rabbet
blade to 45°

Rabbets. With a 3⁄4"dado blade buried Miters. With the rabbets cut, miter the ends Miter the Rabbets. Miter the inside
in an auxiliary fence, cut the rabbets on of the lower frames. Miter only one end of the edges of the rabbets on the upper
the frame blanks. upper frames and leave the other square. frames so they fit when assembled.

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 Veneer
TOP PANEL
I a. TOP VIEW

14!/2
14!/2
TOP FRAMES
E

E
E

A shallow rabbet
on top edge of panel
creates a !/16"
20 gap around
Veneer perimeter of
top frame
!/8" chamfer
added after
Veneer
BASE panel is b. Veneer SECTION VIEW
PANEL assembled %/16 !/8 #/4
!/16
13&/8 H
I !/4
E %/8

!/4
13&/8 3

c. SECTION VIEW
!/16" gap on all
Veneer sides of panel

NOTE: Top frames H

Upper base frame
are made from NOTE: Top and bottom
#/4"-thick hardwood panels are !/2" plywood

completing the Coffee Table

With the aprons and base frames base frame you made earlier. The panel contrast with the cherry frames. Note also
installed, the table is nearly done. All for the top fits inside the top frame with the orientation of the veneer. I kept each
that remains is to install the veneered a tongue and groove joint. You’ll need to piece running diagonally in the frame. It
base panel, then make the top frame and wait until you’ve built the top frame for produces a nice effect if you make all four
panel assembly. After that, you can apply that one, but you can make and install tables and slide them together.
the finish and install the glides. the base panel now. PAPER-BACKED VENEER. I used a paper-backed
BASE PANEL. Veneered plywood panels The plywood panels are decorated veneer for the tables. It’s a lot easier to
fit in both the top and base frames. The with an eye-popping figured veneer. I work with than raw veneer because you
lower panel just drops into the upper chose an exotic, curly anigre veneer to don’t have to worry about it splitting or
cracking while you’re working with it.

How-To: Apply Veneer

Another big advantage is that you can use
contact cement to glue it to the substrate.
Measure the opening in the base to
find the exact size for the panel. You’re
1 NOTE: Rough cut veneer
to within !/4" before
2 looking for a 1⁄16" gap all around. Then
you can cut your veneer, leaving it about
applying Rout in a 1
counterclockwise ⁄4" over final size (with the grain running
direction Down-cut diagonally). After cutting the plywood
spiral bit
panel, you’re ready to add the veneer.
a. END VIEW CONTACT CEMENT. Next, spray the plywood
Veneer substrate and the paper side of the
veneer with contact cement. Let them
Panel
NOTE: both dry and then position the veneer on
Work from
center to edges Veneer grain the plywood. Figure 1 at left shows how
runs diagonally
to use a J-roller to force out air bubbles.
Veneer. Apply a slightly oversized piece of Flush Trimming. With a flush-trim bit Make sure to start your stroke in the
veneer to the panel, then roll out the air in your hand-held router, you’ll get a center of the panel. Slowly roll the entire
bubbles, starting at the center. nice, smooth edge on the panel. surface until any air bubbles trapped
under the veneer are gone.

50 ALL-TIME FAVORITE PROJECTS

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 The beauty of contact cement is that
you don’t need to wait for glue to dry. As
How-To: Cut Grooves, Rabbets & Chamfer
shown in Figure 2 on the opposite page,
you can break out your hand-held router
and install a spiral down-cut flush-trim
1 E
2 Dado
blade I

Rip Aux.
bit to rout away the excess veneer from rip
fence
the edges. When you’re done, you can !/4" dado fence Veneered
blade surface down
install the panel in the base with glue in
the rabbeted edge of the base top frame. a. Thickness
Zero- a. END VIEW
of plywood
You want the panel to be centered in and veneer clearance
insert !/4
the frame with an even gap all the way !/4 END !/4
around. Playing cards make excellent VIEW
!/4
spacers for the panel. Two or three cards
on each of the four sides will help center
the panel in the frame. Just be sure to add Groove the Frame. Set the rip fence to Rabbet the Upper Panel. Start with the
an equal number in each side. cut a groove in the frame pieces at the bit a little low, then raise it to sneak up on a
TOP FRAME & PANEL. For the top, you’ll need position shown. snug fit in the groove.
to start by making another frame. This
frame is like the ones you made earlier,
but there are a few key differences.
3 4
Aux. I Chamfer
Like the lower base frame, this one has a rip bit
rabbet around the outside to fit inside the fence
apron. However, in this frame you’ll also a. END VIEW a. END VIEW Top frame
!/8 and panel
need a groove on the inside edge to hold
!/16 assembly
a tongue on the top panel. In Figures 1 Dado
blade !/8
and 1a at right, you can see the details of
the groove and how I cut it at the table saw
with a dado blade. Set the four frame pieces
aside for now while you make the panel. Shallow Rabbet. Lower the dado Chamfer Top Frame. Set the router table
With the exception of being a slightly blade to barely cut into the veneer to fence flush with the bearing and raise the
different size, this veneer job is just like create a shadow line in the panel. bit just a hair to rout the small chamfer.
before. Cut the panel to final size and then
spray it with adhesive. Then do the same
to the veneer piece. After trimming the
veneer, head over to the table saw. MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM
TONGUE. Install an auxiliary rip fence and A Leg Faces (8) 3 ⁄ x 3 - 87 ⁄
4 8 H Base Panel (1) 1⁄
2 ply. - 137⁄8 x 137⁄8
cut a rabbet on all four sides, as shown in B Spline 1 1
⁄8 x ⁄2 - 170 rgh. I Top Panel (1) 1⁄
2 ply. - 141⁄2 x 141⁄2
Figure 2. The rabbet forms a tongue on the C Support Brackets (8) 1⁄2 ply. - 6 x 6
panel to fit into the groove on the frame. D Top/Bottom Aprons (8) 3 ⁄4 x 27⁄8 - 20 • (16) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
With the veneered side down, sneak up E Top/Lower Base Frames (8) 3 ⁄4 x 3 - 20 • (1) 24" x 48" Flexible Veneer Sheet
F 3⁄ x 2 - 2
on a snug-fitting tongue by testing it in Foot Pads (4) 4 • (4) 1"-dia. Furniture Glides
the grooves in the frame. Raise the dado G Upper Base Frame (4) 3 ⁄4 x 33 ⁄8 - 17
blade until you’re happy with the fit. #/4" x 6!/2"- 84" Cherry (3.8 Bd. Ft.)
I made a second cut in the veneer side D D D D
of the panel to form a shadow line around D D D D
the perimeter. Figure 3 shows how you
can lower the blade to cut the rabbet. #/4" x 6!/2"- 84" Cherry (3.8 Bd. Ft.)
E E E E
CHAMFER. Once I finished assembling
E E E E
the frame, I routed a small chamfer on
the edge (Figure 4). After that, install the
#/4" x 6!/2"- 84" Cherry (3.8 Bd. Ft.)
frame in the top apron with glue. G G G G F F F F
Once you’ve added a finish, you can A A A A A A A A B
install the furniture glides in the feet.
Then clear a spot for your table. With the
ALSO NEEDED: NOTE: Part B planed to !/2"
many possible combinations, you’re sure One - 24" x 48" sheet !/2" Baltic Birch Plywood thick, then ripped to width
to find one suitable for you.

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 Stop

wedge-making Sled
3#/4 (!/4" hdbd.)

5° wedge waste
cut off after cutting
'V' groove
The legs of the coffee table are made up of
four mitered pieces. Inside each leg rests Sled base
a pair of sturdy plywood brackets that a.
XXXX XX

reinforce the table frame. 45°

#/8
The only challenge with this assembly 8
XXXXXXEXTRAS

was figuring out how to clamp the brackets 4!/2

to the inside faces of the legs. To solve that NOTE: Sled base is
#/4" plywood END VIEW
problem, I used tapered wedges that fit in
the leg openings and exert clamping pres-
sure on the brackets. 1 Aux.
2
SIMPLE SLED. To cut the wedges, I used Sled base Set aux. miter
rip fence to 5°
ONLINE

the sled shown at right. It has a V-groove fence

near one edge to hold the wedge blank a. (/16 END
Sled base VIEW
at 45° (Figure 1). A slight taper on the Tilt blade a. END VIEW
45°
other edge will ride against the rip fence
NOTE: Make first cut,
of your table saw (Figure 2). After mak- rotate base end-for-end #/8
ing the sled, you can cut out and use the then reset fence to
complete 'V' notch
wedges as shown in the article.

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