Lycra Breakage Cause and Preventive Measure:

Somor Sen Das

Somor Sen Das
Production,Quality Assurance & Technical Service Specialist
Published May 9, 2017
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Lycra fiber is one of the most important raw materials for the modern development of stretch
fabric. Also Lycra contained fabric takes massive place to all kinds of customer for it’s hi
comfortable properties with high stretch ability, nice fitting and extra freedom to movement, at
the same time customer also more concern about durability of product and quality standard. In
this connection it is most important to take more concern in every stage of manufacturing
process for accomplishes the customer satisfaction with standard quality. But it is not so easy to
handle these kinds of sensitive fabric without tacking any extra special care. According to my
knowledge and experience, in maximum time we have face in stretch fabric huge amount of
Lycra braking in washed garments, and heard from others about same problem, who are using
stretch fabrics in their product line. Whatever of problem we are facing in washed garments,
entire of those problems occurring not only through wash. There is a chance in every stage of
manufacturing process cutting to finishing it can be happen. There is a lot of factor are involve
behind of Lycra braking. For ensuring customer satisfaction expect all of standard level, we have
to take initiative at every manufacturing process, from where we can get those kinds of unwanted
issues. For the prevent those unwanted issues we have to have make a constructive policy and
every manufacturing process have to run according to constructive process and procedure.By the
following preventive measure in every step of our manufacturing process we can get
improvement all over the standard level and will be able to overcome those kinds of unwanted
issues.
Wrong size of needle use: wrong size, wrong diameter and defective
needle can occurred Lycra braking of garments. So needle size and quality is
the most important component to control Lycra braking of garments in sewing stage. For Lycra
fabric needs to use special type of needle and needle has to choose according to fabric thickness,
process design and demand. Needle must be used with lower number of size including with ball
point and thin diameter.

Needle not changing timely basis: Needle have limit of time to work like others
equipment or metal .Sharpness and bent needle can be high cause of huge amount of Lycra
braking. So need to change needle timely basis for every process twice a day to avoid Lycra
braking which are occurring from sharp less and bent needle.

Improper mechanism setting for sewing purpose. Setting of Improper

mechanism also can be cause of Lycra braking.Needle, presser feet, feet dog, and needle bar,
needle plate everything need to adjust according to fabric and process demand. Wrong
mechanism can be occurring injury of fabric as a result Lycra braking will come. So every stage
of sewing process has to attentive to use inaccurate mechanism to avoid Lycra Braking.   

Poor handling by operator:  Poor operating system by the operator can be cause of

Lycra braking and fullness of garments. If operator pulling and pushing process during operation
and given nu-even sewing allowance, one part loose and another part pulling during process then
also can occurring Lycra braking and fullness. So need to well aware to operator about proper
operating system of stretch fabric.

Get-together sewing and tack on process: If engaging get –together sewing ,stitch

and tack in the same line of process, In that case there is chance to braking yarn in tacking area
due to get- together passing of needle in the same area. As a result Lycra braking will come in
that particular area.

Uneven sewing allowance setting on process: During sewing if operator setting

uneven sewing allowance in between two layers of part then seams area fabric will be unbalance.
So after wash in unbalancing area can be occurring fullness and Lycra braking. So its matter of
high concern to give exact sews allowance in seams area.      

Pulling the parts during sewing: If during sewing parts to parts create up down and
operator trying to adjust up down parts by pulling short part or assumed loose at long parts, in
that case on pulling parts can occurring Lycra breakage and looseness parts can occurring
fullness. So during operation need to put more concern and make sure that, there is no more up-
down in between two layers of parts at seams area.

High density of bar tack stitch: If use high density of SPI in bar tack. In that cause of
bar tacking area can occurring yarn cut and yarn pulling due to additional needle stamping in a
same area. So it also high cause of Lycra braking. In this case we have to use low density of SPI
for bar taking and following this way it possible to avoid Lycra braking and looseness in bar
tacking area. Also if necessary we can attach bar tack in after wash garments for avoid fullness
and Lycra braking at bar tacking area.

High pressure of machine: Due to excessive pressure and run of machine , in process

getting pulling out during operation and surface get injure which are can cause of Lycra braking.
So at this point impotency is to adjust machine with suitable pressure. 

Sharpness of machine bed and others goods holding equipment: Sharpness

of machine bed, Conveyor belt, Goods holding box, inspection table and others equipment can
be cause of pulling the yarn of goods ,after pulling yarn Lycra braking will be occur. So it is
important to make sure all equipment surfaces and edged are fully secure and there is no more
sharpness.

During dry process getting stress out: During dry process if dummy are over loaded
with compressor air. So dummy wearing garments also become bulky and after dry process
bulky shapes not get back exact before shape. In that’s case in after wash garments will come
looseness and Lycra braking in that particular cause. In this situation need to follow during dry
process dummy not over loaded by the air.

Use inappropriate size of silicon carbide paper for hand scraping: During

dry process if use inappropriate silicon carbide paper for scraping and pushing excess pressure
by silicon carbide paper during rubbing on garments for blasting process, in that case fabric
surface get injure. As a result looseness and Lycra braking will occur. So it is important to
selects silicon carbide paper according to fabric thickness and properties.

Use improper ratio of chemical: Proper ratio of the chemical one of the most
important elements of stretch for wash. Essential to maintain chemical ratio exactly batch to
batch, wrong ratio of chemical also can be cause of huge amount Lycra braking. So during wash
exactly follow of ratio, water and chemical and others elements. Any of discrepancy of chemical
ratio can be occur of Lycra braking.

Temperature and wash time not control exactly: Every fabric has properties to
absorb limited amount of temperature. If engage high amount of temperature, time during wash
in this case Lycra braking and fullness will come on goods. So we have more concern about
setting temperature and wash time during wash the goods.

Use gas dryer instead of steam dryer: In gas dryer not possible to control
temperature exactly also temperature comes up and down. When temperature comes to up then
require temperature in that case will occur Lycra braking. But in stem dryer temperature is
constant, no ups and down is there as well as no more Lycra braking occurs during wash the
garments. 

Not hang out goods eventually during curing: If have crinkle on garments. And
crinkle need to fixed through woven curing machine. If during curing garments placed in side of
woven hanging with loop nu-evenly or nu-balancing mode, in that case hanging loop`s area can
come Lycra braking. In this situation goods need to hang out with clipping at waist band and
placed in woven curing with eventual mode. Otherwise fullness and Lycra braking not possible
to moderate on garments.

If tie goods tightly before and after wash: Maximum factory make quantity wise
bundle after swing the goods and tied bundle through the string. In that case tied area come
crinkle. From crinkle after wash accruing Lycra breakage and looseness effect. It’s accruing after
wash garments also from the same
reason.                                                                                                                                      was
h goods keep in bumpily mode: If after sewing factory keeping many goods with
bumpily mode.in that case permanent crease arise in garments then after wash come looseness in
that particular area.

  Notusing weight gain chemical for increase Lycra braking strength of

fabric: Some case in average garments found Lycra braking after wash due to poor strength
properties of yarn., In that particular case need to use weight gain chemical to increase Lycra
braking strength during scouring  the goods ,as well as during 1st wash also can use if needed.

Excessive moveable sewing allowance: Excess s sewing allowance also cause of

Lycra braking. If sewing process have excess allowance in the particular process and its moves
left to right and up to down and excess allowance rubbing on garments continuously, then
rubbing area occurring Lycra breakage. So in this case we have to more concern of sewing
allowance. As well as have to concern about using any binding, tape allowance, and thickness
and sharpness.

Getting excessive force in during wash on process, like pocket bag:  If
pocket bag and related opening process not closed with the false tack then during wash water and
others force come in to pocket bag and not come out with the same force. In this situation water
force going to hit at the pocket bag joining area, as a result Lycra braking occurring in that area.
So need to use tack to close the opening area, then water not goes to inside of pocket bag and
extra force will not create that particular area. As a result there will not occurring any Lycra
breakage.

Wash without closing zipper opening Area: If zipper keeps open during wash then
coming extra amount of force on zipper attaching especially fly opening area during wash and
drying. As a result due to extra amount of force going to opening area / zipper joining area
and occurring Lycra breakage. So during wash need keep zipper close, also if possible need to
close zipper opening the tack then Lycra breakage will minimize.

Special Instruction for end user: End user has to know how to take care
on stretch garments. Because of sensitive fabric, user has to respect
following instruction during home laundry for avoid Lycra braking for
period of use.

1.      Never twist garments during home laundry.

2.      Never hangout garments in too hot day light.

3.      After wash never hangout garments in unbalancing mode.

4.      Need to strictly follow about machine temperature during wash the
garments.

5.      Never lay the garments on metal cable for dry purpose.

 Any single cause of above can be create fall down of product standard, damaged your
organizational image, buyer satisfaction, as well as you can lose your business. So if we want to
well protect our product line, our personal image, our organizational image as well as our
business. so there is no alternative without follow and tacking above prevention measure
including with others measure.