Your Simple Guide To French Polishing
Your Simple Guide To French Polishing
Your Simple Guide To French Polishing
French polishing
Manufacturer of
quality finishes
With over 100 years experience of treating wood Liberon’s
heritage lies in the manufacture and development of
traditional finishes for furniture makers and cabinet makers.
Over the years the products have changed, however the
quality of the Liberon brand remains the same.
Designed to help beginners to French polishing understand
the technique and develop the necessary skills, this leaflet
explains the processes taken to achieve beautifully rich and
stunning results. Follow our easy steps and you’ll soon
become proficient in the art of French polishing.
Types of French polish Practice makes perfect
French polishes are made up from flake French polishing requires patience and
shellac dissolved in methylated spirit. practice and should first be tried out
The type of shellac used can vary in on a spare piece of flat wood, with
colour from a light clear colour to a the polishing area in a warm, dust free
dark brown colour: environment. There are many methods
• Special Pale French Polish is a de-waxed of French polishing and every French
shellac and is suitable for use on both polisher has his or her own method
light and dark woods. It will enhance which is developed over time. The
the natural colours of the timber. method described in this leaflet will
give you the basic skills to further
• Button Polish is light brown in colour
advance in your own time.
and is ideal for use on light woods
such as elm and light mahogany.
• Garnet Polish is deep brown in colour
and is mainly for use on darker timbers
such as walnut and dark mahogany.
• White Polish has a milky appearance
and can be used on light timbers such
as ash and natural light oak.
• Black Polish is a jet black polish and
is used in the ebonising process.
Once you have mastered the art of French Types of shellac flakes
polishing you may wish to make up your own
• Blonde De-waxed Shellac Flakes
French polish. This will allow you to adjust
Produce a light transparent
the strength according to your own personal
coloured French polish. Used for
preference and produce your own unique
antique restoration and on light
finishes. To do this you will need shellac
coloured woods.
flakes of the colour of your choice,
methylated spirit and a glass jar. • Lemon Shellac Flakes
Produce a pale gold colour
How to make your own and can be used for furniture
restoration and light to medium
French polish
coloured woods.
Tip the shellac flakes into a jar and cover
• Button Shellac Flakes
with methylated spirit. Replace the lid and
Will produce a golden brown
shake the mixture then leave it for 24 hours,
polish that is suitable for
shaking occasionally until the flakes have
restoration work and darker
fully dissolved.
timbers.
A typical recipe for French polish is mixed • Garnet Flakes
at a ratio of 250 g shellac flakes to 1 L Produce a dark brown French
methylated spirit. If a thicker polish is polish ideal for dark woods
required this can be increased to 500 g and restoration work.
shellac flakes to 1 L methylated spirit.
Preparation Materials
Preparation of the surface to be polished is extremely French Polishes
important and to achieve the best results it is necessary Cotton Waste and Cotton Rag
to remove any slight imperfections which may not be
noticeable under a varnish or wax finish. This may involve French Polishing Mops
stripping off an old varnish with Liberon Fine Wood
Stripper or removing a wax or oil with Liberon Wax and
Polish Remover. Once stripped you will then need to rub
the surface down with fine abrasive paper to obtain a
smooth finish.
Bring the corners together and twist as before squeezing The correct quantity
the polish to the face of the rubber. Any excess should
be squeezed out before you commence polishing. If there
is too much polish on the rubber this will cause ridges on
the work. These ridges will then have to be rubbed down
when the polish has dried and the process restarted from
the smooth surface.
1. Fading up 2. Bodying in
1. Fading up 2. Bodying in
The first applications Further applications are made by using the rubber in a
of polish are made by circular and figure of eight motion. The final pass in the
passing the rubber up and sequence goes with the grain, passing fairly quickly and
down, working along the lightly over the surface. Always finish the sequence along
grain of the wood and the grain.
slightly overlapping the
previous pass. These first The rubber should always be slid onto the work from one
few coats will act as a seal side and off the other during the polishing stroke. Placing
ready for further coats and the rubber on the work and then starting the stroke will
are known as fading up. create a mark, which will be very difficult to remove.
Likewise the same problem will arise if the rubber is
If the rubber feels as if it is stationary on the surface, this is because the alcohol will
dragging squeeze the sides immediately start to reactivate the previous coating.
very gently to push more
polish onto the face, or After several applications the
ease up on the pressure rubber may not slide so freely
being applied to the over the surface. To rectify this
rubber. add a drop of Linseed Oil to the
base of the rubber, ideally by
dabbing it on with the tip of your
finger. This will allow the rubber
to move freely once more. Take
care not to apply too much oil as
this will leave a smearing effect
on the surface and will have to
be removed at the end.
Notes
For areas where a rubber cannot be
used, i.e. carvings, a French polishing
mop is recommended.
If you start experiencing any problems as you are working then the best advice is to
stop. Allow the polish to harden, rub back the error and restart from that point.
Below are some common problems which may occur. Follow the instructions and you
can continue on your way to a beautiful finish.
Polish appears to Caused by too much pressure. Allow the polish to harden
have been removed then cut back and restart.
(rubber burn)
Finger marks If these appear then the polish has not had time to
harden before being handled. Allow the polish to harden,
cut back with Ultra Fine Steel Wool (0000) and then either
re-apply a coat of French polish or burnish with
Burnishing Cream.
Polish will not dry The most common cause for this is that the French
polish is too old. Discard the polish and start with a
fresh batch.
L I B E R O N H A S D E V E LO P E D M A R K E T- L E A D I N G , I N N O VAT I V E W O O D
A N D S T O N E T R E AT M E N T P R O D U C T S F O R O V E R A C E N T U R Y.
ALL OUR PRODUCTS ARE GUARANTEED TO PROVIDE EFFECTIVE,
LO N G - L A S T I N G R E S U LT S W H E N A P P L I E D C O R R E C T LY.
I F YO U H AV E A N Y Q U E S T I O N S A B O U T T H E S E L E C T I O N O R U S E O F
L I B E R O N F R E N C H P O L I S H E S S I M P LY C O N TA C T L I B E R O N T E C H N I C A L
SERVICES ON 01797 361136 FOR EXPERT ADVICE.
Liberon Limited, Learoyd Road, Mountfield Industrial Estate, New Romney, Kent TN28 8XU
Tel: 01797 367555 Fax: 01797 367575 Technical advice: 01797 361136 www.liberon.co.uk
A V33 Group company.