John Rebitoch D.

cl
2015 s. Peaul
Denoeu 10, Col.
Grossman's
Guide

T o Wines, Spirits, and Beers

BY

H A R O L D J. GROSSMAN

MAPS AND DRAWINGS BY

C O N R A D O W . MASSAGUER

REVISED EDITION

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

NEW YORK LONDON
 COPYRIGHT, 1940, 1943, 1955 by
HAROLD J. GROSSMAN
Printed in the United States of America.
E-6.58[MH]
All rights reserved. No part of this hook
may be reproduced in anyformwithout
the permission of Charles Scribner's Sons.
 To
FLORENCE L. GROSSMAN

My Wife and Collaborator

 CONTENTS
PREFACE vii

FOREWORD X

1 Introduction 1
2 Definitions 4
3 Fermentation 10
4 Wine in General 13
5 T h e Wines of France 21
6 T h e Wines of Italy 71
7 T h e Wines of Germany 86
8 T h e Wines of Hungary 98
9 T h e Wines of Spain 105
10 T h e Wines of Portugal 118
11 T h e Wines of Madeira 126
12 Aromatized Wines 132
13 T h e Wines of the United States 136
14 American Wines 139
15 California Wines 149
16 Other Wines 170
Wines of Other Lands. Wines from Fruit Other T h a n
the Grape. Sacramental Wines
17 Distilled Spirits in General 190
18 Brandies 197
19 Whiskies 209
20 Gins 225
21 Rums 230
V
vi CONTENTS
22 Other Spirits 237
23 Liqueurs or Cordials 244
24 Beers and Ales 253
25 Cocktails and Other Mixed Drinks 265
26 Culinary Uses of W i n e 280
27 Menu and W i n e List Making 285
28 Bar Operation 296
29 Beverage Service 304
30 Purchasing 313
31 Merchandising 321
32 Storage and Cellar Treatment 334
33 Beverage Control 338
34 Regulatory Bodies and Laws 352
35 A Glimpse into the Future 355
36 Summary 359
APPENDICES 361
A Quick Guide to Wines and Spirits 361
B Exceptional Vintages of the Last Twenty Years 369
C Cost and Profit Charts 370
D Technical Explanation of Vinous Fermentation. The
Chemical Composition of Must and Light Beverage
Wine 371
E Aphorisms of Brillat-Savarin 379
F Great Clarets and Sauternes of Bordeaux. Principal Vine­
yards of Burgundy. Leading German Vineyards 380
G W i n e and Spirit Cask Standards, with Litre Equivalents.
American Equivalents of Foreign Standards. Bottle Sizes 385
H American Producers. Foreign Shippers and Their Ameri­
can Agents 386
I Glossary of Terms. Trade Abbreviations 398
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 410
INDEX 413
 Preface for the Third Edition
SINCE I last revised the contents of this Guide, during the war years, a
number of changes have occurred which should be noted, as they affect
the trade and the drinking habits of the people.
The basic information in the book does not change and I believe it
will continue to be just as useful to the reader in the future as it has
been since its original publication.
Since the development and wide-spread use of television in the home,
some notable changes have come about in the sale and distribution of
alcoholic beverages. Home entertaining has increased materially and
whereas previously 65% of the sale of wines, spirits and beers was
through hotels, restaurants and bars, now it is just the other way around
. . . 65% of consumption is in the home. This is going to mean an
over-all increase in per capita consumption and, by the same token,
more temperate drinking habits in our people and a greater appreciation
for the taste and quality of the various beverages, which will be reflected
in increased consumption in public eating places. So, on the whole, this
is all for the good.
However, some hotel, restaurant and bar managers have done their
part in sending their customers away by poor business practices—these
are high prices for small drinks, substitution of brands ordered by guests,
lack of knowledge on the part of waiters and bartenders of the better
known brands and mixed drink recipes. Perhaps some customers will be
satisfied with three-quarters of an ounce of whiskey poured into a glass
already filled with soda instead of the recognized standard portion of
11/2ounces, but most find this somewhat weak, and what is more, will
feel defrauded. Furthermore, there is no business in which the public is
so brand conscious as this.
When a patron orders a specific brand he should be served that brand
and no other. If it is not stocked he should be told and allowed to select
from those that are available, but he should never be fooled by trying
to palm off another on the assumption that he will not know the dif­
ference anyway.
Yet another odd practice is to charge $1.00 to $1.50 for a pony of
Cognac, or 33 1/3% to 100% more than for a highball, when the Cognac
will usually cost less than the whiskey. Just how smart is that sort of
merchandising?
It is poor management not to train the waiters and bartenders in the
first essentials of the selling job they must perform, namely to know the
products that are carried in stock, and how to prepare the mixed drinks
most often or commonly ordered in a public restaurant or bar.

vii
viii PREFACE
A person who has had an unfortunate experience may be frightened
away from patronizing other restaurants or bars where fair and generous
treatment is given to the public (there are many) and the whole busi­
ness suffers. I do believe that correcting these practices will do much
toward winning back a good part of the patronage.
It is regrettable that it has been deemed necessary to continually in­
crease the excise taxes upon alcoholic beverages to the point of diminish­
ing returns. This factor has, as was to be expected, served as an induce­
ment to the unlawful element—the bootleggers. The increase in illegal
distilleries has been frightening and will, in my opinion, not show any
marked decrease until our excise taxes are reduced again to at least the
rates which were established in 1942.
A fundamental change in drinking habits is the increasing "dryness"
of the Martini cocktail. It is, more properly, chilled gin. While I do not
pretend to tell anyone what he should drink, I do believe that when
we change the preparation of the recipe of a cocktail to the point where
one of the ingredients is practically eliminated, then it is time also to
change its name and call it something else.
The trend towards dryness in spirits is further evidenced by the great
popularity of Vodka and Vodka drinks. Up to the war years, Vodka was
just another one of the many interesting specialties offered to the public,
but since the war it has sold in ever-increasing volume . . . into the
millions of gallons class.
The most disappointing development in the first twenty years of Re­
peal is that the satisfying pleasure of drinking light beverage wines at
mealtimes has not caught on more. I think this is due to excessively high
prices in restaurants—the normal place for trying wine by the uninitiated—
and also to the fact that the wine producers have not realized that the
American public's palate wants something with a slightly sweet taste. The
average light wines are too dry to appeal to the American who has never
tasted wine. This may account for the enormous increase in the sale of
the kosher wines to over four million cases a year. They are not too
distinguished, but they are sweet and pleasant in taste.
Per capita consumption of wine in the United States has increased
notably from some three-tenths of a gallon, during the first years after
Repeal, to nine-tenths of a gallon twenty years later, but it is disappoint­
ing, to me at least, that only 30 to 35% of this is wine of less than 14%
of alcohol. On the other hand I have been able to observe in Argentina
and Chile, where the per capita consumption is fifteen gallons, that 95
to 98% of the wine consumed is light beverage wines whose alcoholic
content is between 111/2 and 12 1/2% Naturally in those countries light
 PREFACE ix

red or white wines form part of the people's diet. Were we to reach a
comparable rate of wine consumption we would require 2,225,000,000
gallons a year instead of the 140/145,000,000 that we have reached.
I firmly believe that the wine producers of the United States (Cali­
fornia representing 90% of production included) would show wisdom
and economic statesmanship if they were to join the foreign producers
and shippers serving the American market in a joint effort to bring about
such a development, instead of following the quixotic policy of fighting
the windmills of the fears that imported wines are going to destroy the
local industry. Imported wines represent less than 4% of the total wine
consumption, and even though they were to enter the market entirely
free of duty, there is hardly any likelihood that they would ever be able
to increase their volume much beyond this relationship for simple
economic reasons.
What this would accomplish would be to vastly increase the vineyard
plantings and the number of people required to grow the grapes, to turn
them into wine and to handle them in every step on their way to the
consumer's table.
In preparing the revisions for this new Third Edition of the Guide I
have endeavored to incorporate such changes and clarifications as experi­
ence has shown through the years were needed to make the book serve
a more useful purpose.
The chapters on our own wines have been completely rewritten. In­
formation has been added referring to wines and spirits whose sale has
become more important in our market. The vintage information has all
been brought up to date, and finally, Appendix H giving the lists of
American Producers, Foreign Shippers and their American Agents in the
light of today's changes, has been completely revised.
HAROLD J. GROSSMAN
New York, January 1, 1954.
 Foreword

WITH THE REPEAL of the Eighteenth Amendment in 1933, the liquor

industry in the United States began to do business after many years of
inactivity. As a natural result, the vast majority of those who entered the
trade were new to it. They were untrained and unfamiliar with the prod­
ucts they handled and with the traditions of the trade. Information and
educational training were acutely needed and were difficult to obtain
because both producing and importing companies—the logical source of
such information—were too occupied with the more immediate problems
of production and distribution to provide it.
Many of the new companies were unable to afford sales promotion and
educational budgets, and, in any case, there was a sad dearth of men
equipped with the necessary, specialized knowledge. There were a few
who did yeoman service, writing on the subject in magazines and papers.
After the first confusion was over, the trade journals also pitched in and
have done a splendid educational job, but there is still much to be done.
Many excellent books have been written on wines, but very few on
spirits or beers. There are also available many useful pamphlets and
books published by various producers and importers, containing ac­
curate and worthwhile information on individual types of products. T o
the best of my knowledge, however, there is no book which is a compre­
hensive guide to all phases of this vast and important industry.
In my own experience, the need for such a source of information has
been of many years standing. Just after the first World War, as a young
lad fresh from school, I had to take over the management of the family
enterprises in Cuba. It was my good fortune to find that my father had
left the only actual wine cellar—and well-stocked, too—in the West Indies
(at least, I never heard of another). Although the main business was the
operation of a hotel famed for its cuisine and its wine list, it was the wine
cellar and its contents which intrigued me.
The business was sufficiently important to require regular importa­
tions, bottling operations, and considerable attention. As I had no one to
teach me about the wines, I was forced to learn by trial and error.
x
 FOREWORD xi
One of my early mistakes came about when I found five unmarked
barrels in the cellar. I had one opened and discovered it to be gin, some­
what discolored with age. Not being able to use it, I sold it to a bar, run
by an American Negro, in a seacoast town. After a time, he ordered an­
other barrel, which was shipped to him. A few days later I received a
strongly worded complaint about the poor quality of the gin I had
shipped him.
Having business in the seaport, I went to his establishment and exam­
ined the "gin." Without further ado, I had it shipped back to my cellars.
This Negro from the South, unlikely as it seems, had failed to recognize
one of the most marvelous Bourbon whiskies I have ever tasted, many
bottles of which I later sold for $ 1 2 and $15 a bottle. I then hopefully
examined the other barrels and found to my utter disappointment that
there was only one more of Bourbon among them.
Of course, I spoiled a cask or two of wine by trying to bottle it before
it was rested, and by leaving part of a cask from one day to another after
it had been broached, but little by little the knowledge came. By dint of
systematic tasting and from books I ordered from England, I gleaned
additional information. Fortunately, Andre L. Simon had published some
of his books in the early twenties. The more I learned about the subject,
the more I realized how much there was to learn.
I have addressed many audiences since Repeal, both in person and in
writing, on this fascinating subject. This book is based on this experience
and on the many questions that have been asked of me in regard to the
many phases of the industry. Its purpose is to provide a practical Guide
that will help those in the trade to sell their products with greater con­
fidence and ease, and that will help the consuming public to enjoy those
products more fully.
The scope of the book is very broad as it has been my desire to cover
not one but all phases of the industry, from the historical background,
through production, distribution, and use, down to a speculative preview
of possible future developments.
Six years of work, the reading of literally hundreds of books and arti­
cles, old and new, and a vast amount of original research, drawing not
only on personal experience but on that of scores of men in the trade,
went into the original preparation of this Guide. The extensive list of ac­
knowledgements which follows is evidence of the help which has so
generously been contributed by authorities who have aided me in making
this a comprehensive compilation of the latest and most accurate informa­
tion available today.
My thanks go to:
Richard L. Blum, Irwin Wile, and Julian E. Blum of Julius Wile Sons
xii FOREWORD
& Co., Inc., for the confidence they have always shown in me, and for
permission to use any and all material which I have written for the firm.
T o Harry L. Lourie, Executive Vice-President of the National Associa­
tion of Alcoholic Beverage Importers, whose sincere friendship I value,
upon whom I can always count to patiently let me impose on him, and
whose sound, wise advice, assistance and encouragement I cannot repay.
T o André L. Simon of London, founder and President of the Wine
and Food Society, to whom I must pay a special tribute. He is not only
the World's premier authority on wine and food, but the high priest of
the art of good living. Long before I knew him personally, I had become
one of his disciples. His unselfish generosity in giving of his encyclopedic
fund of knowledge of wining and dining are worthy of emulation. I am
grateful for the permission granted to quote from his published works.
T o E. Laurence Sozzi of New York for his assistance in the prepara­
tion of the chapter on Italian wines.
T o Alfred Fromm for his assistance in checking the chapter on Ger­
man wines.
T o Paul A. Schack for his aid on the glossary of terms, the list of
shippers and producers, and to both him and Harold Goldberg of Macy's
for the practical suggestions they have made for the improvement of
the book.
T o Dimmie Feinberg for her assistance in preparing the list of shippers.
T o the Marquis Bertrand de Lur Saluces for valuable information on
Sauternes.
T o the late George Roullet of Denis-Mounie & Co. for the general
information he gave me on the wine trade and Cognac in particular.
T o Julius Wile of Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York, one of the
outstanding men of the new generation in the Wine Trade, ably follow­
ing in the footsteps of his forebears, for the over-all assistance and
criticism he has given me; and for the many photographs taken by him
which he has permitted me to use, as well as his reports on Alsatian
wine and Cognac.
T o Richard L. Blum, Jr., for permission to use his report on the pro­
duction of French Vermouth and Aperitif wines.
T o Oscar J. Wile, Chairman of the Board and Alwin E. Wile, of
Browne Vintners Co. Inc. for their aid and encouragement, and for in­
formation they have made available to me.
T o Peter Young and Paul Clare of Young's Market Co., Los Angeles,
California, for their aid in clarifying the information on Tequila.
T o Mr. R. P. Kunett, President of Ste. Pierre Smirnoff Fls. Inc., for his
information and assistance regarding vodka and kvass.
T o Don Alejandro Dussaillant L. and his son Don Armando Dussail-
 FOREWORD xiii

lant G. of Lontué, Chile, for the wealth of information about Chile and
her wines that they have furnished me.
T o Hector R. Mercado, General Manager of Bodegas y Viñedos Arizu,
S.A., of Buenos Aires, Argentina, for the fund of experience and informa-
tion on Argentine wines he has made available to me.
T o Harry A. Caddow, General Manager, Leon Adams, Secretary, Frank
Whiteley and the other personnel of Wine Institute, San Francisco, Cali-
fornia, for the wealth of material placed at my disposal, and for the
generous personal time they gave me in relation to the preparation of
Chapter 15 on California Wines.
T o the late J. O. Dahl, Editorial Director of Ahrens Publications, for
permission to use material which I have written for Hotel Management,
Restaurant Management and Hotel World-Review; and for illustrations
which he made available to me.
T o R. T. Huntington for permission to quite from his book, "Bar
Management and Beverage Profits."
T o William Margolis, Publisher, and Louis Schwartz, Editor of Amer-
ican Wine and Liquor Journal, and American Wine and Liquor Re-
tailer, for furnishing illustrations from their files, and aiding in preparing
lists of foreign shippers.
T o Frank Haring, Editor of Liquor Store and Dispenser, for furnishing
illustrations from his files.
T o Arthur Krows, one-time Editor of The Spur, for permission to use
material that I wrote for the magazine.
T o Walton Hall Smith and Dr. F. C. Helwig, authors, and Little,
Brown & Co., publishers, for permission to quote from "Liquor the
Servant of Man."
T o the late Otto Baumgarten of the Crillon Restaurant, a true restau-
rateur who knew and loved wine, for his advice on wines, particularly
those of Austria.
T o Gordon M. VanderBeek, Beverage Manager of the Hotel Astor,
New York, for furnishing the material used in preparing the chapter
dealing with Hotel Beverage Control; and to the Hotel Astor, for per-
mission to use the forms which illustrate this chapter.
T o Roger B. Kaufman, C.P.A., for his help on Accounting for Retail
Liquor Stores.
T o Albert Reinitz for his helpful suggestions on merchandising.
T o Jeanne Owen for her assistance and advice on culinary matters and
her recipes.
T o Anna Wetherill Reed for her advice on early American dishes and
permission to use many recipes.
xiv FOREWORD

T o Sydney Haas of M. Lehmann, Inc., for his assistance on Retail Store

Accounting practises.
T o Dr. Frank M. Shipman, Director of Laboratories, Brown-Forman
Distillery Co., Inc., for his information on the history of distilling in the
United States.
T o International Geneva Association for permitting me to conduct its
Beverage Merchandising and Service Course in accordance with my own
method of instruction. This book is largely the outgrowth of the original
research and organization of material which were required for the course.
T o W. I. Hamilton of the WaldorfAstoria Hotel, who directs the Inter­
national Geneva Association Hotel Training Courses, for being the first
to encourage me to undertake this work.
T o Hugh Harley, Secretary of United Brewer's Industrial Foundation
for furnishing material used in preparing the chapter on Beers and Ales.
T o James R. Nicholson, General Manager of Ruppert's Brewery, for his
assistance in checking the chapter on Beers and Ales.
T o A. O. Smith Co. for permission to reproduce their excellent chart
on draft beer troubles and their remedies.
T o Elliott A. Johnson for permission to reproduce his "Know Your
Liquor Costs" chart.
T o William Lenz and William Raymond of the Café Lounge Bar of
the Savoy-Plaza for their assistance in preparing the chapter on Cocktails.
T o Dr. David I. Macht for permission to quote from his published
papers.
T o Leo Star for his information on fruit and sacramental wines.
T o the Dean of Cathedral College, New York, for information on the
use of wine in the church.
T o Rabbi Hyman for information on the use of wine in the synagogue.
Last, but certainly far from least, I wish to acknowledge the patient,
untiring collaboration of my wife. The chapter on Culinary Uses was
written by her. Her sage questioning and criticism of the manuscript have
done much to make it readable and to clarify many points which might
have been obscure. In truth, the book is as much hers as it is mine.

HAROLD J. GROSSMAN
New York, January 1, 1954
 I

Introduction

T H E BEGINNINGS of the liquor industry are lost in the mazes of the past,
almost as old as man himself, and our knowledge of it is made up of
widely scattered information from the dawn of time in every language
written or spoken. The entire subject lacks finality. It is continually
developing and consequently is always intriguing. Like living things, it
is subject to growth and fluctuations, and in that fact lies, perhaps, its
chief fascination.
The development and improvement of the quality of alcoholic bever­
ages have been a natural result of the advance of science and civilization.
The role of science has been limited to assuring uniformity of quality
and sound products year in and year out, for mysterious Mother Nature
still insists she will have something to say in the matter, even when it
comes to distilled spirits.
The vine, the brewing kettle, and the still have accompanied the
spread of Christianity, establishing certain honorable traditions which the
trade proudly upholds today. It is also interesting to note the esteem in
which the wine trade is held abroad. It was the first "trade" considered
sufficiently honorable and dignified for a member of the aristocracy to
engage in, and many of the leading European firms are directed by men
of noble families.
In England a wine merchant is consulted in matters pertaining to
wines, spirits, or beers just as a lawyer is in legal matters. The confidence
thus placed in him gives the merchant a keen consciousness of his respon­
sibility. Also, as he knows that the business he builds will be continued by
his sons and grandsons, family pride leads him to pass on an impeccable
reputation. It is not unusual to find firms that have been doing business
under the same name in the same place for hundreds of years—in some
cases more than 400 years. This is the European custom and I hope it
will become ours as well.
One of the leading Champagne shippers illustrated this point when
he told me: "When I ship my wine, my name appears on the label. It is
I who guarantee the quality. My reputation is more important to me
1
2 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

than any pecuniary profit I may derive from the sale. It took my fore­
bears 200 years to establish this reputation for shipping wines of quality,
and rest assured that I am going to pass on as good a name to my suc­
cessors as I received." It is men of this type who have placed the wine
and spirit trade on the high plane which has become traditional.
Based on these traditions, certain firms have established their brands
so well that the public asks for their product by the name of the shipper.
This has been particularly true in the case of Cognac and whiskies, but
since Prohibition made our public "age conscious," many people have
been buying "numbers" rather than brands in whose name we have con­
fidence. This has happened in the case of wines, as well. It is true that
certain wines do improve with age—up to a point—but there are other
wines which are more pleasant if drunk when young, as is the case with
light white wines, whose charm lies in their freshness.
The industry as a whole is today a most important part of our business
life, employing, directly or through allied enterprises, millions of men.
It is one of the three most important sources of tax revenue for the
Federal treasury and the several State treasuries.
Just as Prohibition is bad, so is excess, and in no case is this more true
than in the use of alcoholic beverages. There is no better word of advice
on this point than that which Lord Chesterfield gave to his son, in the
letter dated London, March 27, 1747:
"Were I to begin the world again with the experience I now have of
it, I would lead a life of real, not imaginary pleasures. I would enjoy the
pleasures of the table, and of wine; but stop short of the pains inseparably
annexed to an excess of either."
The leaders of the industry are unanimous in preferring that more
people drink and enjoy beverages, rather than that the individual drink
more.
It is gratifying to note the moderation exercised by the public in the
use of alcoholic beverages since Repeal. A per capita consumption of one
gallon of spirits per year indicates an average of one-third of an ounce
per day. Wine consumption is only about one-fifth of an ounce, while
the beer average is about 4 ounces. A people whose alcoholic beverage
consumption is so low may, without fear of contradiction, be called
temperate.

The Guide has been divided into five main sections: wines; spirits;
beers and ales; uses, merchandising, control, and so forth; and finally,
the appendices which contain useful, quick reference data. All of the
material has been carefully cross-indexed so as to simplify the book's use
for reference purposes.
 INTRODUCTION 3
Condensed information on the entire industry is given, including the
description of a product, its method of production, selling, care, and
uses in public and private places. Naturally the practices described are
those generally used in the United States, unless otherwise specified.
It is the author's hope that libraries will find the Guide a comprehen­
sive source of information on all phases of the subject; that producers,
vintners, distillers and brewers will find it valuable as a general reference
and in equipping their sales representatives with information about the
other phases of the industry, which will enable them to win the con­
fidence of their customers; that the wholesale distributor will find it
invaluable as a training manual for his staff, and as a reference book.
The various appendices have been compiled with a view to practical
use, particularly the list of foreign shippers and their American agents,
and American producers.
Particular care has been taken in providing information on every
phase of the industry for the use of retail establishments, whether off-
premise (stores), or on-premise (hotels, restaurants or clubs).
After reading the book through, it may be useful to review certain
chapters at the time when one is featuring the promotion of particular
products. For example, during the Christmas season, there is an oppor­
tunity to sell liqueurs in their fancy bottles. It is good business to be
posted on these, and to refer to the Guide if one is asked for a liqueur
whose style or character may have been forgotten.
It is also advisable for the hotel, restaurant or club manager to keep his
service personnel well-informed. After all, they are his sales staff and they
cannot be expected to increase the sale of beverages if they are not
familiar with them. This applies equally to the wholesaler or distributor.
The sales staff which is trained and can give information will become
salesmen instead of order takers.
While the Guide has been designed primarily to be of use to the trade,
it is the author's earnest hope that it will be read by the most important
person to the entire industry—the consumer. It is to please and serve him
that the industry constantly strives. A greater familiarity with the bever­
ages which are discussed in detail in this book would, we believe, not
only aid him in purchasing with assurance, but would, perhaps, point out
to him many intriguing qualities which he may have overlooked, and
therefore increase his enjoyment.
T o provide the reader with practical information, to increase his knowl­
edge and enjoyment, and above all, to impart something of the fascina­
tion of the subject is the purpose of this Guide.
 2

Definitions

IT IS IMPORTANT to explain what we mean by the various terms we use,

so that there may be no misconceptions. The definitions and axioms
which follow are important because they are the basic elements on which
the book is built. Unless we understand the same things by the same
words, there may be some confusion in reading the book. These, then,
are the tools with which we are to work:

WHAT IS ALCOHOL?

Alcohol is a volatile, colorless liquid with an ethereal odor, obtained

through the fermentation of a sugar-containing liquid. There are many
members of the alcohol family, but, as Al Smith is the best-known Smith,
so ethyl is the best-known alcohol and the one which concerns us most,
as it is the principal alcohol to be found in all alcoholic beverages. Chem­
ically, alcohols are hydroxids of organic radicals. There is nothing in
alcohol which, in itself, is poisonous or injurious to man's health.

WHAT IS AN ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE?

Literally, any potable liquid containing from 1/2 of 1 Per cent up to

75 1/2 per cent of ethyl alcohol by volume is an alcoholic beverage. How­
ever, social and economic factors enter the picture, and we find that, for
the purposes of taxation, the Federal and several State Governments have
set certain definite standards as to what constitutes an alcoholic beverage.
Whereas beers containing as little as 2 per cent of alcohol by volume are
taxable, certain bitters and medicinal compounds, which often contain
upwards of 40 per cent, are not taxed because they are not considered
alcoholic beverages in the tax sense. In 1919 the Congress of the United
States established by law that an alcoholic beverage containing more than
1/2 of 1 per cent of alcohol by volume was intoxicating, yet in later years,
liqueurs containing 12 per cent of alcohol by volume were permitted to
be sold as "non-alcoholic" cordials. One might draw the conclusion that,
by 1930, 12 per cent of alcohol in a liqueur was not as intoxicating as 1
per cent was in beer.
4
 DEFINITIONS 5

NATURAL
SPARKLING
NINES FORTIFIED
AROMATIZED
OTHER CIDER
FERMENTED FRUITS PERRY
NOT BEER
DISTILLED ALE
GRAIN STOUT
PORTER
SAKE
PULQUE
MISCELLANEOUS
KAVA
SPIRIT BLENDS
DOMESTIC WHISKEY BL.ENDS
RYE AND STRAIGHT WHISKEY
BOURBON BOTTLED IN BOND
WHISKIES SCOTCH
GRAIN IMPORTED IRISH
CANADIAN
VODKA
CUBA
BEVERAGES

PUERTO RICO
LIGHT
STO. DOMINGO
BODIED
HAITI
PHILIPPINES
JAMAICA
SUGAR DEMERARA
FULL
CANE RUMS BARBADOS
BODIED
MOLASSES MARTINIQUE
DISTILLED NEW ENGLAND
ALCOHOLIC

AROMATIC BATAVIA ARAK

AGAVE TEQUILA
COGNAC
ARMAGNAC
SPANISH BRANDY
GRAPE CALIFORNIA BRANDY
PISCO PUNCH
GREEK BRANDY
CALVADOS
APPLE APPLE JACK
FRUIT BRANDIES
KIRSCH
CHERRY
CHERRY BRANDY
SLIVOVITZ
PLUM MIRABELLE
OUETSCH
LONDON DRY
ENGLISH
OLD TOM
GINS HOLLAND
AMERICAN
FRUIT GINS
NATURAL COLOR FRUIT LIQUEURS
COMPOUNDED LIQUEURS (Infusion)
(Flavored COLORLESS PLANT LIQUEURS
Spirits) (Distilled)
ABSINTHE
AKVAVIT
AROMATIC
BITTERS
FRUIT
6 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

WHAT IS WINE?

Wine is the naturally fermented juice of freshly gathered ripe grapes,

which have been pressed at or near the place where gathered. The Fed­
eral Alcohol Administration's regulations, however, give a broader use
to the term and say that it may be applied to the fermented juice of other
fruits, or even herbs, such as blackberry, elderberry, peach, and dandelion
wines. Wine is more than just water and alcohol. The Bible calls it the
blood of the grape. Wine is a living thing in a constant state of change.

WHAT IS A SPIRIT?

A spirit is a potable alcoholic beverage obtained from the distillation

of an alcohol-containing liquid. It makes very little difference whether
the original liquid contained a small or a large amount of alcohol. Once
the principles of distillation are applied, nearly all of the alcohol may be
separated from the liquid. In this process, however, it is inevitable that
certain other matters will also be separated and it is these congenerics,
which we may call impurities, that give the several spirits their distinct
character after the spirit has been matured in wood and the congeners, or
impurities, have fully developed.

WHAT IS BEER?

Beer is a liquor fermented from cereals and malt, flavored with hops.

AXIOMS

There are only two colors in wine—red and white.

Any wine containing the slightest tinge of red is a red wine.
White wines range from the very palest straw-color to deep, dark brown.
There is no wine that is absolutely colorless.
Red wines are generally dry. (Exceptions are Port and Port-type wines,
some Italian and one or two Hungarian table wines.)
White wines vary in sweetness, from the extreme dryness of a Man­
zanilla to the rich sweet lusciousness of a Tokay Eszencia.
The word "dry" is used in the wine trade to describe the opposite of
sweet. Literally, it means lacking in sugar.

FOUR MAIN CLASSIFICATIONS OF WINES

Light Beverage (Natural still wines). Red and white Bordeaux, Bur­
gundy, Italian, Rhine, Moselle, Alsatian, Tokay, Hungarian table wines,
American, California, etc. Alcoholic content 14 per cent or less.
Sparkling. Champagne, sparkling Burgundy, Asti Spumante, sparkling
Moselle, etc. Alcoholic content 14 per cent or less.
 DEFINITIONS 7

BOTTLE SKETCHES

Typical or standard shapes of bottles generally used in the wine, spirit, and beer
trades for packaging their products are shown o n this and following pages. Bottles of
distinctive design and style are not included. (Sketches by Conrado W . Massaguer)

(From left to right) Champagne and sparkling wines: Bordeaux wines; Burgundy still
wines; Alsatian, Rhine, Moselle and Hungarian white table wines; Chianti; Tokay.

Fortified. Sherry, Port, Madeira, Marsala, Malaga, etc. Alcoholic con­

tent 16 to 23 per cent.
Aromatized. Vermouth, both Italian and French, quinined wines, etc.
Alcoholic content151/2to 20 per cent.
Wines with less than 14 per cent alcohol will improve after bottling.
Fortified and aromatized wines will improve very little or not at all,
with the exception of Vintage Ports.

(From left to right) Bocksbeutel for Steinwein; Sherry; Port; Madeira; Italian sweet
Vermouth, French dry Vermouth.
8 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

(From left to right) Cognac brandy; Apple Jack; Scotch and Irish Whiskies; Rye and
Bourbon Whiskey quarts; Rye and Bourbon Whiskey pint and half pint flask; Gin.

CLASSIFICATION OF SPIRITS

Brandies. Cognac, Armagnac, Spanish, Greek, American, Kirsch (cherry

brandy), Calvados (Apple Jack), Slivovitz, etc.
Whiskies. Scotch, Irish, Canadian, American Rye and Bourbon, etc.
Rums. Jamaica, Demerara, Cuban, Puerto Rican, Martinique, Haitian,
Batavia Arak, etc.
Gins. English London dry and Old Tom, American gins similar to
these two, Hollands, etc.
Other Spirits. Akvavit, Vodka, Tequila, etc.
Liqueurs. French, Dutch, American, etc., including such specialties as
Benedictine, Chartreuse, Strega, Crême Yvette, Forbidden Fruit, etc.
Spirits mature—improve—as long as they are stored in porous contain-
ers, usually wood, though sometimes, notably in Holland, in earthenware

( F r o m left t o r i g h t ) H o l l a n d s G i n ( s t o n e c r o c k ) ; H o l l a n d s G i n ( s q u a r e - f a c e glass
bottle); C u b a n and Puerto R i c o R u m ; Jamaica R u m (flask style); J a m a i c a a n d
West Indies R u m .
 DEFINITIONS 9

(From left to right) Anisette; Crème de Cacao, Triple Sec; Crème de Mentile;
Maraschino; Saké.

crocks, where the action of the air mellows the spirit through oxidation.
Spirits do not improve in glass. Once bottled they remain unchanged.

CLASSIFICATION OF MALT BEVERAGES

Beers are the light-colored brews commonly called lager. Alcoholic

strength about 4 per cent by volume.
Ales are darker, and more bitter brews. Alcoholic strength about 6 per
cent by volume.
Porter and stout are very heavy-bodied, rich malt brews. Alcoholic
strength about 6 per cent by volume.
Sake is a specially treated and refermented brew made in Japan.
Alcoholic strength of 15 to 16 per cent by volume.
Beer is a product more delicate than milk. It is extremely sensitive to
light and heat, and should be kept in a dark, cold storeroom.

(From left to right) Ale and beer bottles; steinie; imported ale and stout bottle;
imported English ale and beer stone bottles; flat top beer and ale can; cap top beer
and ale can.
 3

Fermentation

T H E WAY TO TELL A STORY, someone wisely said, is to begin at the begin­

ning, go straight on to the end, and then stop. The story of alcoholic
beverages must begin with an understanding of the process whereby
alcohol is obtained. Alcohol can be produced only from sugar or a prod­
uct which can be changed into a sugar. "First catch your rabbit," advised
the old cookbook. First have your sugar, and it is an easy matter to trans­
form it into alcohol by the natural process of fermentation.
Fermentation is the result of chemical changes by which the molecule
of sugar is split into two molecules of ethyl alcohol and two molecules of
carbon dioxide gas. The gas escapes into the air and the alcohol remains.
The metamorphosis that takes place is like that which changes milk into
cheese or the lowly caterpillar into the lovely butterfly. Nature provides
its own chemical agents to see that the job is accomplished efficiently in
each case. The agent in fermentation is a yeast. Yeast, being a living plant
organism, capable of self-reproduction, has as many individual strains as
there are people on earth, a number of which have been identified and
given long scientific names. But the yeast in grape juice, whose job it is
to change the juice into wine, is called saccharomycetes (also spelled sac-
char omyces).
It might be said that the transforming of grape juice into wine by the
process of fermentation could be left entirely to nature without any
interference from man, except in the case of sparkling, fortified, or other
such wines. And this is true—up to a point. Grass grows quite naturally
in the fields in a wild state, but it takes constant care to make an attrac­
tive lawn. Wine left too long to ferment upon its husks will draw color
from the skins, if they are those of black grapes, and it will also draw
from the pips, stalks, or the small pedoncules, more acidity and tannin,
and more of the unsuitable acids, which would prove objectionable later.
It is man's job, therefore, to control the process of fermentation, leaving
most of the work to the saccharomycetes.
The saccharomycetes appear when the grapes begin to ripen. They
settle on the outside of the skins to await the time when the grapes are
10
 FERMENTATION 11
gathered and the juice expressed. The saccharomycetes then can perform
their mission in life of causing the grape juice to ferment and become
wine. The grapes themselves are not affected by their presence, since their
action does not commence until the juice is expressed and there is oxygen
present. In other words, eliminate the air, and the grape juice will not
ferment, even though it is chuck full of saccharomycetes. However, under
o
favorable temperature conditions (15° to 20° C , not over 85 F.) they
perform their function. They cause a terrific commotion and change to
take place, yet remain unaffected themselves. They work violently at first,
when there is an abundance of grape sugar to work upon, and more
quietly as it is changed into alcohol and carbon dioxide, until all the
sugar has been used up or the wine attains an alcoholic strength of
around 14 per cent, when their action will cease and the fermentation
process is completed.
The saccharomycetes, or catalytic agent, in other words, produced a
new product, ethyl alcohol, and what was originally must (unfermented
grape juice) has now become wine. But the importance of this agent
does not end with its chemical action. It has a definite influence on the
character of the wine itself. It is a living plant organism and is influenced
by climate, soil, and geographical conditions existing in each wine-
producing region, much as human beings are influenced by their en­
vironment.
A good case in point is to be found in the white wines of Burgundy
and Champagne. In both instances, the Pinot grape is used, yet two more
distinct and different white wines are hard to find. Admittedly, the soil
difference is a contributing factor, but the character of the saccharomy­
cetes has much to do with explaining this phenomenon.
Still another example appears in the Sherry district at Jerez, Spain,
where another yeast, the mycoderma vini, known as the "flower" of wine,
is found to be entirely different from that in the Manzanilla warehouses
of San Lucar de Barrameda on the seacoast. It has been proven repeatedly
that a butt (cask) of Manzanilla wine brought to Jerez will be invaded
by the Jerez "flower" and will, in a short time, acquire the characteristics
of a Jerez wine, losing its Manzanilla character.
T o sum up, the process known as fermentation is one which consists
mainly in the splitting up of each molecule of grape sugar present in
grape juice into two molecules of alcohol and two molecules of carbon
dioxide. But it must be remembered (1) that there are other fermentable
substances in grape juice besides grape sugar; (2) that there are other
catalysts which render possible subsidiary fermentations which take place
at the same time or later, and are responsible for the presence, in wine, of
compounds which did not exist in the grape juice.
12 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Grape juice, indeed, is a very complex aqueous solution. It contains,

besides water and grape sugar, acids and other substances, most of them
in very small quantities, either of a vegetable or of a mineral origin.
1. Substances, other than water, which are the same in must and wine:
grape sugar, saccharomycetes, acids, cellulose, essential oils, mucilage, etc.
2. Substances other than ethyl alcohol, present in wine, but not in
must: glycerine, various acids, alcohols other than ethyl, esters, alde­
hydes, etc.
We have been discussing fermentation in wine, in which sugar is
naturally present in the form of grape sugar in the grape juice. It is also
present in other fruits, most particularly in sugar cane, whose juice,
properly treated, gives us the sugar we use in our coffee and, as a by­
product, molasses which, when fermented, produces the alcohol which we
distill off and eventually call rum.
However, alcoholic beverages are often obtained from basic ingredients
which contain no natural sugar but which are rich in starch, such as
grains, cereals, potatoes, etc. This is possible because, under the proper
conditions, the starches can be converted into sugar (maltose and dextrin)
by the action of the diastase which is the principal enzyme contained in
malt (usually barley malt). Once the sugar is there, yeast will gladly finish
the job of fermentation.
 4

Wine in General

T H E VINTNER'S LIFE, like the policeman's, is not a happy one, even when
Mother Nature is most co-operative. Making wine is not merely a matter
of gathering grapes, pressing them, and leaving them to ferment. It is not
the simplest and most profitable of agricultural pursuits, when one con­
siders that every vine must be carefully watched, pruned down so that all
its strength will not go into stalk but into producing grapes of rich qual­
ity, sprayed against the many diseases always waiting to attack at a mo­
ment's notice. The vintner must take care that birds, who love the grapes,
do not eat up the entire crop; he must gather the grapes when they are
just ripe, press them, and see that conditions favorable to a perfect fer­
mentation are present. He must watch carefully over the casks of new
wine to make sure that the mycodermae aceti (vinegar yeasts) which are
in the air, do not get in and steal the show; and after the wine gets in
the bottle, he hopes that eventually it will reach an appreciative buyer.
Add to this his eternal worry over too much rain or too little sunshine,
and it is a wonder that men have the courage to carry on such an arduous
task, particularly when you consider that two out of every three vintages
are apt to be below normal.
Man has made wine almost as long as he has husbanded the earth.
Paleontologists have found evidence of masses of grape pips, skins, and
stems, which apparently had been crushed by prehistoric man. No one
knows when wine was first made. It is possible that a cliff dweller who
had gathered wild grapes to use their sweet juice as a thirst-quencher
returned from a hunting trip, picked up the vessel which he had left, and
discovered, to his amazement and delight, that the grape juice had be­
come a different drink, one that made him happy—the grape juice had
fermented and become wine.
The Egyptians credit Osiris, and the Greeks Dionysus, with the gift of
wine, while the Hebrews say Noah first introduced it. At all events, the
numerous references in the Bible indicate that not only wine but stronger
beverages were made, as indicated by the following words:
13
 14 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Yayin—the Hebrew word most often used to describe wine.

Homer—fresh, young, unmixed wine.
Tiros—strong wine.
Sekhor—strong drink.
Meseg—mixed wines.

Phoenician traders introduced the vine into Europe at the Mediter­

ranean coastal trading posts they established, and later the Roman
legions carried it into Gaul, Germany, and across the Channel into
England. Although England is one of wine's best markets, it has never
been able to produce wine successfully in commercial quantities.
The greatest single influence upon wine has been the Church. Indeed,
the development of the vine has accompanied the spread of Christianity.
Wine was needed for sacramental functions, and the good fathers recog­
nized its food value. Since they made the wine for their own use and not
for commercial purposes, they were more interested in quality than in
quantity and their every effort was directed toward improving the vines
and perfecting the quality of the wines they made. As a result, the vint­
ners outside the Church began to follow their example and the general
standard of wine-making was raised to a higher level.
Evidences of their work still exist in France today. The vineyards of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape near Avignon were started by Pope Clement V in
the early fourteenth century, and they still produce wines which we en­
joy at the present time. Dom Perignon, the Bénédictine monk of the
Abbey of Hautvillers, probably did more for Champagne than any other
man, and as we lift the sparkling wine we still hear echoed in our ears
his rapturous cry as he first sipped Champagne, "Oh, come quicklyl I'm
drinking stars!"
It was men of the Church, too, Who first made elixirs from wine and
brandy, combined with herbs and plants, which were originally used for
medicinal purposes. The two most notable examples, with their secret
formulas still in use today after hundreds of years, are the famed Bene­
dictine and Chartreuse liqueurs.
Even in the United States, the vinicultural history of California begins
with the efforts of Fray Junipero, a Dominican missionary, who planted
around the missions vines he had brought from Spain.
But while the development of viniculture was greatly stimulated by
the Church, the making of wine antedates it by thousands of years.
Archaeologists have translated the Laws of Hammurabi, the lawgiver-
king of Babylonia, handed down some 4100 years ago. Among them are
regulations governing innkeepers and the manner in which their hos-
telries could be conducted. The penalties called for the loss of a limb
 WINE IN G E N E R A L 15
for permitting riotous drinking on the premises, and in extreme cases-
death. They seem to have been rather trying for the unfortunate violators
but they indicate, as did our more recent "noble experiment," that man
will not be made temperate by force or by stringent prohibitory laws. It
is apparent that the majority of people, from the beginning, have en­
joyed alcoholic beverages temperately, and that there have always been
a small minority who abuse the privilege to their own and their fellows'
detriment. Attempts to protect this minority have led to periodic restric­
tions over the rest for more than four thousand years.
The vine has played an important part in our own land, as well as
throughout the world. In the year 1000, a small band of intrepid Vikings
discovered America which they dubbed "Vineland the Good" because of
the wild profusion of grape vines they found growing on our shores, and
for 600 years thereafter the country was referred to, in Icelandic litera­
ture, as Vineland. One of the first concerns of the early European settlers
on our Eastern seaboard was the cultivation of the vine, both native and
imported. These efforts, unfortunately, were doomed to failure for
reasons which are discussed in the chapter on American wines. However,
it is interesting to note that some twenty, or more than half of the known
grape species of the world, are indigenous to North America.
The American influence, oddly enough, has been felt in every viticul-
tural region in Europe, not because of our taste for wine or our lack of
it, but because of a certain grape pest (phylloxera vastatrix) which
reached Europe with a shipment of American vine plants imported for
experimental purposes. In every part of viticultural Europe havoc was
caused by the insatiable appetite of the phylloxera before an effective
remedy was found. Chemicals, sprays, turning over the land, were of no
avail. After twenty-odd years of suffering and experimentation, it was
found that the phylloxera did not attack the American plants, which
have much hardier roots. Thereupon, the European varieties (Vitis Vini-
fera) were grafted on American roots (Vitis Aestivalis, Vitis Riparia, or
Vitis Labrusca). For this reason, there are people who say that our wines
must be just as good as the European, because "their grapes grow from
American vines." It is important to understand that the grape continues
to have the identical character which it had prior to the grafting on the
American roots.
Although man had been making wine and beer since time immemorial,
it was not until the early 1860's that anyone actually knew how the
miracle was performed. It was the great scientist, Louis Pasteur, who, by
his revolutionary researches in the field of vinous and malt fermentation,
proved conclusively that fermentation was caused by the presence of
minute organisms called "ferments." He further demonstrated that if
16 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

grape juice or brewers' wort is exposed to air from which these minute
organisms have been removed, no change takes place, but if ordinary air
is present, the miracle of fermentation takes place. Based on Pasteur's
studies, the business of wine making and brewing began a new era. Exact
scientific knowledge replaced guesswork. Certain things no longer "just
happened"; the vintners understood at last how they happened and why;
and they knew at last what to do about it.
Wine, like a human being, is born, passes through adolescence, ma­
tures, grows old, and, if not drunk in time, becomes senile and finally
dies. Its life span, like that of man, is unpredictable at the time of birth.
It suffers from maladies to which some succumb while others recover.
Some wines are aristocrats, some plebeians, but the mass of wines are just
sturdy, honest, good fellows. Yet all are interesting, more so as one gets
to know them better, because no two vintages of the same wine, or any
two wines, are ever identical. Each has its own individuality. There will
be family resemblances and characteristics which can be recognized quite
readily, but the more one studies the subject and notes these intriguing
differences, the greater will be the enjoyment from wines.
Three factors govern the appreciation of wine—color, aroma, and taste.
Wine offers a three-fold sensory appeal. That is why those who love wine
first hold the glass to the light, then smell it, and finally taste it. The
pleasure of anticipation is half the fun, and in drinking wine, each step
in the process adds to the enjoyment.
A wine must be clear and brilliant, have a clean, pleasant bouquet,
and should have a clean, sound, pleasant taste on the palate. There is
beauty in its brilliant color, whether it be the amber of a white wine,
reminding us of golden sunshine, or the warm ruby depth of a red wine.
The color also gives the first indication of the wine's body; the deeper
the color, the fuller it will be. Naturally, this applies to wines of the
same type. T w o totally dissimilar wines cannot be compared.
After the appeal to the eye, the sense of smell is pleased by the subtle,
pleasant perfume which a wine gives off in the form of esters. As a matter
of fact, more than three-fourths of our sense of taste is actually our ability
to smell. The bouquet, aroma, perfume—call it what you will—of a wine
tells much of what the taste will be. In subsequent chapters, in describing
the taste of wines, I shall be forced to use what may seem to be strange
comparisons. I shall refer to some wines as having a strawberry, violet,
or flowery bouquet. In other words, I shall try to give a taste picture in
terms of familiar experiences.
Finally, after the aroma of the wine has promised a certain taste, the
palate should confirm it, and add the after taste which is experienced
after the wine has been swallowed.
 WINE IN GENERAL 17
If wine is being "tasted" critically, with a view to purchasing or
salability, it should be compared with a similar wine of the same price to
establish the fact of its quality. Is the taste more pleasing? Is the quality
better than the wine with which it is being compared? Tasting is a busi­
ness and should be carried out very carefully and seriously. But in
drinking wine for pleasure, enjoyment should not be encumbered by any
critical analysis of its delicate nuances. The important thing, in this in­
stance, is the pleasure which the wine gives. Do not be hypercritical.

THE THERAPEUTIC VALUE OF WINE

"Wine," said Pasteur, "is the most healthful and hygienic of beverages."
From the earliest days it has been looked upon as a natural remedy for
man's ills. In ancient times it must have been invaluable to physicians
whose medical knowledge was limited, and European doctors today use it
extensively in their practice. In Europe, indeed, where oenotherapy has
long been practiced with success, doctors regularly prescribe various
wines in cases of anemia, arteriosclerosis, constipation, diarrhea, malaria,
pneumonia, illness of the liver, kidneys, gall bladder, and so forth.
However, it is as an aid to recovery during the convalescent period that
wine can give its best service. Many of the tonics prescribed by physicians,
to say nothing of the many patent medicines, could not be made without
such wines as Sherry, Madeira, Port, or Tokay. All of these wines, rich
in minerals, easily assimilated by the system, are used daily to help those
who are run down, anemic or fatigued. Champagne is the first food per­
mitted after an abdominal operation. It is almost the only nourishment
the stomach will receive and hold after the operative shock. The medic­
inal value of Champagne and other sparkling wines in cases of sea sick­
ness is well known. Sherry, rich in iron, is mentioned in the pharma­
copoeia.
It is a significant fact that in the Medoc district (Bordeaux wine region)
of France, there are nearly twice as many octogenarians per 100,000
population as there are in the whole of France outside that district.
Claret forms part of the daily diet of these old people. Incidentally, they
also boast more golden wedding anniversary celebrations than any other
section of France. Wine, in France, is called "the milk of the aged."
More important, however, than its medicinal properties is the fact that
throughout the ages man has looked upon wine as a food. The Bible
refers to it in this sense time and again, for example, in Isaiah: "Until I
come and take you away to a land like your own land, a land of corn and
wine, a land of bread and vineyards." And later, "Thus saith the, Lord,
As the new wine is found in the cluster, and one saith Destroy it not; for
a blessing is in it."
18 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

There is a blessing in it. Wine is a food and an aid to health. A quart

of wine containing 10 per cent of alcohol, furnishes 850 calories, or the
alimentary equivalent of a pound of meat, or 20 ounces of milk, or a
pound of bread.
The California Wine Institute informs me that in a study entitled
"Food Value of Portions Commonly Used" by Anna de F. Bowes, Nutri­
tion Education Director of Philadelphia Child Society, and Charles F.
Church, formerly Associate Director of Research, Rockefeller Nutrition
Fund, Children's Hospital of Philadelphia, the caloric values of several
California wines are given as follows:

Type of Wine Calories per ounce Average Portion Content

Red Table Wine 23 3.2 oz.—74 calories
White Table Wine 28 3.2 oz.—91 calories
Champagne 28 3.2 oz.—91 calories
Sherry 42 2 oz.—84 calories
Port 49 2 oz.—98 calories
Muscatel 49 2 oz.—98 calories
Tokay 36 2 oz.—72 calories

All light wines contain vitamins, particularly B and C, which are im­
portant to the digestive tract as they help activate the secretions of the
ductless glands whose proper functioning is so necessary to our general
well-being. As can be seen from the chemical composition of wine (see
Appendix D) it contains valuable alcohols, acids, and minerals in minute
quantities.
Intemperance is almost unknown in wine-drinking nations such as
France, Italy, and Spain. There are two reasons for this: first, the wine
is used as food and consumed at meal times; second, while everyone
drinks, drunkenness is looked upon by these practical people as a waste­
ful use of a good thing and consequently it is frowned upon.
Unhappily, these beneficent qualities cannot be claimed for wine-
drinking in the United States, as long as wine is classified as a liquor
whose sole mission is to intoxicate. It will not form a part of our regular
diet until the authorities classify it as a food, where it belongs, and not as
a liquor.

IMPORTANCE OF WINE IN THE ECONOMY OF THE NATION

The world's greatest wine-producing and consuming nation is France.

The per capita consumption is somewhere around 32 gallons. T o satisfy
this demand, seven per cent of the arable land, or some four million
acres, is planted in vineyards. These vineyards are owned by 1,500,000
 WINE IN GENERAL 19
individuals who give employment to many more. Figures of the other
important wine-producing and consuming nations of Europe—Italy,
Spain, and Germany—are comparable.
In contrast, the American consumption figures are absurd. People with
a far lower standard of living, recognizing the food value of wine, use
twenty, thirty, even sixty-five times as much as our one-half gallon per
capita.
If we could increase our consumption of light wines in this country to
one-quarter of the French rate, or eight gallons per capita, i.e., about four
glasses of wine per week, we would require, on the basis of the French
figures, some three and a half million acres of land, involving some two
million farmers, and the employment of perhaps two or three times as
many persons. And this would be only the beginning. Distribution and
sale, the allied industries such as bottle makers, label printers, and so on,
would add to the employables, because of this increase in wine consump­
tion. This appears even more desirable when you consider that the op­
portunities offered to the small farmers would help to create more inde­
pendent, self-reliant men, such as the country wants as the backbone of
the nation.
As a means of encouraging this, the several State Governments and the
Federal administration should recognize that for actual revenue-through-
taxation, wine is a woefully poor contributor. The present tax rates
average:

Federal State
Light wines under 14 per cent $.17 per gal. $.10 per gal.
Fortified wines up to 21 per cent .67 " " .20 " "
The State tax rates shown are those levied in New York. Each State levies its own
taxes, and there is some variation, while in most of the so-called Monopoly States there
is no specific tax as such, since the State sells to its citizens at a profit.

In 1939, when the Federal excise taxes were $.05 and $.10 per gallon
respectively, the Federal Government and the several States collected
through wine excise and fortifying taxes some $15,000,000. In 1952, when
total volume had almost doubled and the Federal taxes had been in­
creased by more than 200%, as shown above, tax collections increased to
a little over $100,000,000.
At all events, the tax from wine is rarely as much as 2 per cent of the
total tax revenue from alcoholic beverages. Generally speaking, these
taxes are low and quite reasonable when compared to those levied on
beers and spirits. However, it is the high license fees, both for produc­
tion and sale, which are the greatest hindrances to a more rapid expan-
20 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

sion of winemaking, and which tend to increase the cost of the wine to
the consuming public.
So long as wine is looked upon as an alcoholic beverage and not as a
food, its wide use will be curtailed. When the day arrives on which wine
can be made and sold freely with a minimum of special tax and license
burden, when it can be distributed through outlets that sell other foods,
much as coffee and tea are sold today, then and then only is our country
likely to become a wine-drinking nation. Then the Federal and State
treasuries will derive an increased revenue from wine through the larger
income tax payments of the farmers, who will turn to wine-making when
they find it profitable.
The picture is not too discouraging. Wine consumption has reached
over 140,000,000 gallons,—nearly twice as much as in 1939,—according to
Wine Institute figures. This means many more acres planted to vineyards,
greater employment in the vineyards and at the wineries and in every
phase of the industry. It is to be hoped that it will continue to prosper.
 5

The Wines of France

IN ANY DISCUSSION OF WINES, it is natural that France should be upper­

most in our minds. "The French," said the old history book, "are a gay
people, fond of dancing and light wines." The former statement is open
to question, but there is no doubt about the wines. In fact, although the
largest wine-producing nation in the world, France cannot produce
enough to supply the needs of her people, and imports ten times as
much wine as she exports. About 175,000,000 gallons of cheap, ordinary
wine is imported, as contrasted with the export of some 18,000,000.
There are some who would have us believe that much wine is shipped
from the United States to France which returns here later as French
wine with high-sounding names. To the best of my knowledge, there is
no foundation of fact in this statement. In the first place, our wines are
too expensive for French needs, and in the second place, France has a glut
of fine wines but a shortage of cheap, ordinary wine.
It is her fine wine which France exports, and let it be observed here
that it is this policy of exporting only such goods as will enhance her
reputation, whether wine or chefs or clothes, which has made the French
the most astute merchandisers in the world, and given her a position
from which she sets the fashion in the art of good living. Poor wine,
badly made dresses, and downright bad cooking there are in France, but
they stay there.
It is not, however, because of the quantity of wine she produces or
drinks, but because of the quality and variety of wines that she offers
to the world, that France comes at the head of our list. In every Depart­
ment but two, the vine is cultivated.
France is politically subdivided into Departments (states), which are
further subdivided into Communes or Parishes (counties). The three
most important Departments, as far as wines are concerned, are the
Gironde (Bordeaux—Clarets and white wines), C6te d'Or (Burgundy—red
and white), and Marne (Champagne). After these leaders come the De­
partments of Bas Bourgogne (Chablis), Bas Rhin (Alsace), Maine et Loire
(Anjou), Indre et Loire (Vouvray), and the various Departments along
21
22 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the Rhone River, which produce the famous C6tes-du-Rhone wines.

The wines from each section are so markedly different and have such
individual characteristics, that they have been accepted as basic types.
Their names are used and the wines imitated in almost all wine-produc­
ing countries, so that, in order to study the wines of the country properly,
we must take each geographical division separately. Each will be consid­
ered in the order of its importance to the wine trade in general.
Although the vine has been cultivated commercially in Gaul since the
Roman occupation, and with greater care and intelligence than in other
countries, it is only within recent years that regulatory laws have been
passed, guaranteeing the authenticity of origin of place names commonly
found on wine labels.
The first delimitary laws were passed after the 1911 "Champagne wars."
This came about when the vignerons who were making their wine ex-
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 23
clusively from grapes grown within the province of La Champagne rose
up in arms against certain merchants who imported grapes at low prices
from outside the traditional Champagne region and sold their Cham­
pagne at cut prices. The riots resulted in delimitary laws which fixed the
boundaries within which the grapes must be grown to produce wine
legally entitled to the name Champagne.
Since then, further delimitary laws have fixed the limits of all the
major wine districts, the Cognac and Armagnac districts, and recently a
series of laws has been passed in France regulating the maximum quan­
tity of quality wine which the world-famous vineyards (Grands Crus) may
produce of a given vintage. The object in setting a maximum production
is that, in order to give quality wine, the vines must be well-pruned. This
naturally cuts down the quantity of wine the vine will produce but as­
sures the quality. If the vines were allowed to grow freely, they would
give a larger quantity of grapes, but the quality would suffer proportion­
ately. This tends to insure continued high quality for the wines of the
few famous vineyards capable of producing great wines because of their
favorable exposure and exceptional quality of soil. Under the new laws,
all the "classified" wines which come under their provisions will eventu­
ally bear on the label a special legend, "Appelation Controlé," which
means that the authenticity of origin and, to a certain extent, the quality
as well are definitely guaranteed by the French Government.

1. BORDEAUX

History. Fifty years before the birth of Christ, Burdigalia (Bordeaux)

was the chief town and commercial center of Biturigis Vivisi. Later, in
the fourth century, it was made the capital of Aquitania Secunda. Its
fame, then as now, was irrevocably linked with the excellence of its
wines, which were praised by Columella, renowned Roman writer of the
first century.
Through his marriage with Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, Henry of
Anjou acquired the Senechaussée of Bordeaux (Gascony) and the vast
Duchy of Guienne. T w o years later he became King Henry II of England,
and for 300 years Gascony belonged to the English crown. Its wines en­
joyed wide popularity in the islands, a taste which exists to this day.
The history of the famous wines of Bordeaux began more than 2000
years ago. W e do not know who first produced a wine of the Claret type,
but the poet Ausonius sang of its charms and virtues during the Roman
occupation. The famous Château Ausone is supposed to be his vineyard.
What is Claret? The term is applied to the red wines produced in the
Department of the Gironde. Bordeaux is the main city and seaport of
24 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the district. Therefore, while Claret is a type of wine, it also has a very
definite geographical origin in Bordeaux. All Bordeaux red wines are
Clarets, and only Bordeaux red wines are Clarets. Only wines produced
from grapes grown within the borders of the Department of the Gironde
are entitled to be called Bordeaux.
Types of Wines. If France is first as a wine-producing country, the
Bordeaux district (Gironde) may be regarded as the heart of the French
wine trade. The district produces three distinct varieties of wine, equally
distinguished: magisterial Clarets of great breeding; clean, dry, white
Graves; and luscious, golden Sauternes.
Geography. The Bordelais viticultural region is divided into five main
and three lesser districts, namely:

Medoc Côtes
Graves Entre-Deux-Mers
Sauternes Palus
St. Emilion
Pomerol

There is a further subdivision, the "Commune" or "Parish." The Parish

is a geographical, political, and formerly religious subdivision, as a Parish
priest and church were required to administer the spiritual needs of a
community. The Church worked out such a perfect geographical sub­
division that the State saw no reason to change it, and took it over in
toto.
Soil. One would think that rich soil would be required to produce fine
wine. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, the soil of the
Bordeaux wine region is mainly gravel, limestone, sand with a clay sub­
soil. More unfriendly soil for agriculture would be difficult to find, and
yet the vine flourishes best in just this type of soil. Where no other crop
can be grown successfully, the vine gives the best quality of wine grape.
This is equally true in the other famous viticultural regions of Europe.
The Grape. The principal or informing vine used in the production
of the great Clarets is the Cabernet Sauvignon. Growing in small, close-
set bunches, its violet-scented grapes are small and sweet. Few, if any
vineyards, however, are planted with only one variety of vine, and Gros-
Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec, Carmenere, and Petit Verdot are also planted.
T h e best white wines are made from the Semillon, the Sauvignon Blanc,
and the Muscadelle.
The vine in Bordeaux is not allowed to grow wild; in fact, it is cut
down close to the ground after the vintage, so that the winter appearance
of a vineyard is that of a bare field, dotted with an orderly series of
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 25

Wine

Region of
Bordeaux
DESIGNED BYH.J.GROSSMAN • EXECUTEDBYC.W. MASSAGUER.
26 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

stumps. The vines are not allowed to grow more than two and a half to
three and a half feet high, so that what strength they derive from the
soil will go into producing grapes of quality rather than trailing vine.
Medoc. The most important subdivision is the Medoc, which forms a
triangular peninsula, stretching north some fifty miles from Bordeaux
to Soulac, varying in width from six to ten miles. It lies between the
Garonne and Gironde Rivers on the east, and the sea on the west. Only
Clarets are produced in the 53 Parishes which make up the Medoc, of
which the four most important, so far as we are concerned are Pauillac,
St. Julien, Margaux, and St. Estephe.
Graves. The second district in importance is Graves which takes its
name from the gravelly or pebbly quality of the soil. The Graves stretches
for some 25 miles to the southwest of Bordeaux, for the most part level
plain, which becomes more hilly to the south. Here are produced both
red and white wines. The red wines are generally known by the name
of the estate from which they come, while the white wines are generally
called "Graves." The most important Parishes of the Graves are Pessac,
Léognan, and Martillac.
St. Emilion and Pomerol. Third in importance are the St. Emilion and
Pomerol districts. There are five Parishes in the former; the Parish of
Pomerol is important enough to be considered a separate district. They
are all situated on somewhat hilly ground north of the Dordogne River,
in the immediate vicinity of the town of Libourne. The wines from
these vineyards, because of their depth of color and fullness of body, are
considered the Burgundy wines, of the Bordeaux district.
Sauternes. Where the Graves terminates, we come to a district smaller
than the Island of Manhattan, but viticulturally favored as are few
regions in the world. Entirely distinct from all the other wines of Bor­
deaux, and having an excellence all their own, are the rich, luscious,
highly perfumed wines of the Sauternes. The Sauternais or Pays du
Sauternes (Sauternes Country) lies to the southeast of Graves and on the
left bank of the Garonne River. Five Parishes comprise the Sauternes
country: Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac, and Barsac. The wines
from any of these Parishes are known by the generic name of Sauternes.
Barsac, for example, is a Sauternes.
Palus, Cotes, and Entre-Deux-Mers. In this district are produced the
smaller but useful wines, both red and white, which are generally shipped
simply as Bordeaux Blanc or Bordeaux Rouge, or under the shipper's
brand name.
The Making of the Wine. The vintage in Bordeaux usually begins
sometime during the last two weeks of September. The vendangeurs
(vintagers)—men, women, and children—are organized in groups under
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 27
a foreman, who supervises the work to see that only ripe, sound grapes
are picked, and that the work is thoroughly and conscientiously done.
The bunches of grapes are cut off the vine with special pruning shears
and are placed in small baskets which, when full, are emptied into large
wooden, hodlike receptacles known as hottes. The porte-hotte (hod-
carrier) takes his full hotte to a two-wheeled wagon which has two tubs
called douils, into which he dumps the grapes. The vintager in charge
of the cart pushes the grapes down firmly until the douil is filled. A
solidly packed douil will produce a barrique (cask) of 225 litres of wine.
When both douils are filled, the cart, drawn either by horses or oxen,
proceeds to the pressoir or cuvier (pressing house) where, amidst a great
deal of bustle and activity, pressing operations are going on.
Here the grapes are dumped into a large trough, usually about 10
feet square and 2 feet deep. The grapes are trodden to mix them thor­
oughly and break the skins so that the juice will run out. The grapes,
without further pressing, together with such juice as has run out of them
during the treading, are then placed in a large fermenting vat. The skins
go in, too, but not the stems or stalks.* In the making of the great Clarets,
the stalks and stems are rarely allowed to ferment with the wines as the
grapes are rich enough in tannic and other acids themselves. However,
in poor years and in the smaller wines, they are sometimes used to make
up for this deficiency.
The juice is now known as must. The grape skins and pips remain in
the must during fermentation, to give the wine color and body.
The juice of the usual wine grapes is quite colorless. T h e color in red
wine is obtained from the inside of the grape skin. Grape juice will not
dissolve the pigment, but alcohol will, and it is the alcohol formed dur­
ing fermentation that extracts or dissolves the color in the skins. It is
for this reason that a white wine may be made from black skinned
grapes by the simple process of separating the juice from the skins before
fermentation begins. The most notable example of this is Champagne.
However, in the making of the white wines of Bordeaux and of most
of the other wine regions, white grapes are used almost exclusively and
after the égrappage or destemming, the grapes are pressed by means of
mechanical presses and the juice expressed is run off into casks.
The saccharomycetes which are present on the skins of the grapes
begin to multiply with amazing rapidity in the favorable element of
grape juice and plenty of air, and fermentation begins almost at once.
At first it is violent and quite boisterous. In fact, the verb "to ferment"
comes from the Latin fervere, "to boil," and if one looks into a vat of
* The stems are removed in a special apparatus called the egrappoir. The destem­
ming operation is known as the egrappage.
28 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

fermenting must, it looks like boiling liquid. The escaping gas causes
the surface to boil, burble, and hiss angrily. However, it gradually sim­
mers down as less and less sugar remains, until there is hardly any left.
During the period of violent fermentation, the skins, pips, and all the
other residue in the must float to the top, forming a cap three or four
feet thick. If the cap forms too quickly, it will be broken up with wooden
appliances to insure plenty of air for the saccharomycetes. The grape
juice, or must, which is slowly becoming wine, remains at the bottom.
This first, or violent fermentation may take from a week to a month,
depending on temperature and climatic conditions. The average time
is two weeks.
As soon as the first fermentation is completed, the new wine is "racked"
(drawn off) into clean, sulphured barriques of 225 litres, which are
placed in the chai (warehouse) or cellar, if the vineyard boasts such a
luxury. Fermentation continues slowly until the little sugar remaining
has been used up. This continued period of fermentation causes a cer­
tain amount of boiling over, so the cask is not closed tightly. A water
seal is used in the bung, which permits the gas to escape but does not
allow any air to enter.
During the first few months, because of boiling over and evaporation,
there will be a certain loss of wine, which will leave an air space into
which the bad ferments are prone to penetrate, ready to undo all the
good work of the saccharomycetes, making the wine sick or even turning
it to vinegar. The preventative is to keep the cask filled up to the bung
with sound wine. The casks are refilled twice a week during the first
two months and every two weeks thereafter until the wine falls bright
(clear) five or six months later.
During this period of continued activity, the wine throws off certain
impurities and superfluous solid matter which are deposited at the bottom
of the cask and are known as the lees, consisting principally of cream of
tartar, tartrate of lime, yeast cells, coloring, and albuminous material.
It is not good for the new wine to remain too long in contact with the
lees, so the new wine is racked into fresh casks three times during the
first year: in the early spring, March or April; in June, when the vine
flowers; and in October. The operation of racking must be performed
on a clear dry day to insure a bright, clear wine. Wine racked or bottled
on a muggy or stormy day will be dull in appearance.
With the third racking, the bung is driven home and the cask stored
so that the bung is on the side, entirely covered with wine. This assures
complete closure and prevents the entrance of any air. Of course, while
the wine is in the wood, it will be in contact with the air it breathes
through the porous wood, and its development continues.
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 29

The smaller, lighter wines are ready for bottling within two years,
but the bigger, fuller bodied Clarets of reputation require from three
to four years, depending on the quality of the vintage.
Before bottling, the wine is subjected to one last operation, which is
fining, i.e., clarifying. The heavier solids have precipitated of their own
weight to form the lees, but a few lighter particles may remain in suspen­
sion, floating in the wine. In order to insure only perfectly clear, bright
wine being bottled, it must be fined. This, too, is done on clear, dry
days somewhat as follows: A small amount of albuminous material,
which may be either isinglass, gelatine, ox-blood, or white of egg, is
mixed with a little wine and poured into the cask. This protein matter
combines with part of the tannin in the wine, forming an insoluble
tannate film, which slowly precipitates, acting as a filter, carrying with
it all such extraneous matter as is the cause of wine's turbidity, leaving
the wine in a brilliant condition for bottling. The fining process takes
one or two weeks.
A clear, dry day must be selected for bottling, and once a cask is
broached, the entire contents must be bottled and the bottles corked.
Much as a human being accustomed to an active outdoor occupation
dislikes the confinement of an office job, so the wine resents the change
from the cask to the confinement of the bottle. It usually takes six or
eight months for it to accustom itself to the change. During this period
the wine is not drinkable because it is suffering from a disease known in
the wine trade as bottle-sickness. After the bottle-sickness period, it takes
up its development in the bottle, which will continue until it reaches
its prime. If it is not drunk, it will become senile and die. Red wines
which have suffered man's ingratitude in this manner can easily be
recognized. They have lost color, have no bouquet, flavor, or body.
They are dead and lifeless. It has been my misfortune to examine dur­
ing the last six years several famous pre-war cellars amply stocked with
very old vintages of great repute. The sixty- or seventy-year-old Clarets
and Burgundies were all in this condition.
It is difficult to say how long a Claret will live. No two vintages are
alike, just as no two people are alike. While the less successful vintages
reach their peak in ten to fifteen years, better vintages will continue to
improve for thirty, forty or even fifty years. Naturally, the older the wine
becomes, the greater the amount of deposit there will be in the bottle,
and the more delicate it will be. Consequently it is difficult to ship it
around. This is a natural phenomenon and is to be expected of all wines,
particularly red wines. In the course of time, the wine throws off some of
its bitartrates, and in the case of red wines, a certain amount of tannin,
also, which make up the deposit that settles on the side or bottom of the
30 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

bottle, depending upon how it is stored. The sediment, however, in no

way affects the quality of the wine; it is simply one proof of age.
An extremely old Claret, fit to drink, is almost an impossibility in
America today, as it could not withstand the rigors of an ocean voyage.
However, there is no reason why a young wine laid down in this country
should not mature just as well as in Bordeaux, and be just as enjoyable.
Bordeaux Wine Trade. There are more than 4,000 vineyards in the
Bordeaux wine region, each of which is called chateau, meaning castle.
In many cases the property boasts a medieval castle, but when the term
is used as generally as it is in Bordeaux, the majority of these "castles"
are simply farmhouses used only for pressing grapes and storing wine.
Obviously, if each of the 4 , 0 0 0 odd vineyard owners were to attempt
to sell his wines direct to the buyers from all over the world, there would
be no end of confusion. Because of this, the trade decided many genera­
tions ago to create a clearing house in the form of the Bordeaux Wine
Merchants, brokers who buy the wine from the different vineyard owners,
sometimes bottled, but more often, and in larger quantities, in the wood.
The broker ships the wine as he receives it, or blends it with wine from
other vineyards and bottles it, not under the chateau or vineyard name,
but under his own proprietary brand. With few exceptions, the vineyard
owner never markets his own wines, but depends on the wine merchant
who acts as a clearing house for his merchandise.
Labeling. The Bordeaux wine trade has developed four types of labels
to help promote the sale of their wines. These are:

(A) Chateau bottled

(B) Chateau wine bottled by the wine merchant
(C) Monopole or trade-mark brand
(D) District or Parish label

There are two distinct types of labels used on chateau wines. The first,
"château bottled," indicates that the wine has been produced, cared for,
and bottled at the vineyard property where the grapes were grown. It
has on the label or capsule the phrase, Mise en bouteilles au chateau,
which means "placed in the bottle at the chateau." The vineyard owner
delivers this wine to the wine merchant or shipper, bottled, labeled, and
cased. The cork will always be branded with the chateau name and
vintage year. Examples: Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour,
Chateau Olivier, Château Yquem.
T h e second type of label, "Chateau wine, bottled by the wine mer­
chant," indicates that the wine has been produced at the chateau named
on the label, but has been purchased in the cask and bottled by the ship
per in his Bordeaux cellars. In this case, the phrase, Mise en bouteilles
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 31
au chateau, will not appear, but the shipper's name will appear on the
label. Examples: Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour, Château
Yquem. This will differ from the "chateau bottled" in that each shipper
designs his own label.

(A) Château bottled. Note the phrase "Mis en bouteilles au château" at the base of
the label. (B) Château wine, bottled by the shipper. Note different style of label and
the phrase "bottled and shipped by". (C) Monopole or trade-mark brand. Note the
word "déposé" in lower right hand corner, meaning registered brand. (D) District or
Parish label. Note it simply bears the regional name of district. ("Mis en bouteilles
par" on this label means, "Bottled b y " the shipper.)
32 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

There are some châteaux that do not practice chateau bottling at all;
they have found it more profitable to sell their wines in wood to the
different wine merchants who bottle them. So you will often find Chateau
Pontet Canet, Chateau Léoville Barton, Chateau Langoa Barton, and
Château Kirwan being sold under different labels.
Whereas château bottling guarantees authenticity of origin and should
guarantee quality, this does not necessarily hold, as many chateaux bottle
their wines only during good years, while others bottle their wine every
year. Consequently, because of changing vintage conditions, chateau
bottlings vary greatly in quality from year to year. This has a direct
influence on the price governing each vintage and explains why a younger
vintage will sometimes fetch a much higher price than an older one of
the same wine. A good example is the 1928 Chateau Yquem which costs
about 50 per cent more than the 1925.
In order to take care of his customer's needs in every part of the
world, the Bordeaux shipper must always have a wide assortment of
château wines. Although there is no "Wine Stock Market" in Bordeaux,
château bottlings are traded in somewhat the same manner as stocks
and bonds on our exchange. Through the centuries the trade has evolved
a system that is eminently fair and satisfactory, both to the vineyard
owner and to the shipper.
Suppose, for instance, that the 1929 vintage of Chateau Latour totaled
100,000 bottles, all chateau bottled. Eight wine merchants agree to buy
up the entire vintage and split it among them. Each of them would
then have the same wine to offer to the trade, identical in every respect
as to labeling, capsules, cases, etc., and their price would be more or less
the same. Along comes a ninth merchant who needs this wine for one of
his customers. As the eight merchants have cornered the market on this
wine, he must buy from one of the original purchasers and pay him a
profit, making a profit for himself on the sale. Therefore, when buying
chateau bottled Bordeaux wines, shop for the lowest price, as it is all
the same wine.
The third type of label is the Monopole or private brand. Each shipper
has his own private brand label on which he stakes his reputation for
honesty, and his knowledge and ability as a wine merchant. This is al­
most invariably a blend of various wines from different parts of the
Bordeaux region, which the shipper maintains year in and year out at
the same standard of quality; e.g.: Prince Noir, Rosechatel, Merin d'Or.
The fourth is the Parish or District label. A bottle so labeled contains
wine produced in the Parish or District named, i.e., Medoc (wine in
this bottle was produced in the Medoc District). This wine does not
necessarily come from one vineyard but may be from several in the
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 33
Parish or District named. It will be a blended wine, bottled by the ship­
per at his Bordeaux cellars. For this reason, it is possible fo obtain wines
bearing identical names and vintages from different shippers of widely
varying quality and price. The explanation is that one shipper may have
used better quality wine in his blend, while another feels that price is
more important than quality. After all, the Bordeaux shipper, like any
other business man, tries to satisfy his customers' needs. Beware of bar­
gains. Compare prices. You get what you pay for in wine or shoe laces.
The Vintage. There seems to be some confusion as to the exact mean­
ing of the word "vintage," in reference to wines, whether they are im­
ported or produced in the United States. The word has several meanings
which it would be well to explain.
1. Vintage means the gathering of the grapes and pressing them and
making wine therefrom. There is a vintage every year.
2. The date on a bottle of wine signifies the year in which the wine
was produced, the vintage year.
3. Some vineyards bottle and date every year's production; others
date only the better years.
4. Certain regions, notably Champagne and Port, date only the wines
of exceptional years. Since this is not done every year, the dated wines
are known as "vintage" wines.
A vintage chart, judiciously used, can be of great help, but it is im­
portant to remember that not all the wines made in a great year are
great, and not all the wines made in a poor year are poor. Sweeping
generalities of this kind cannot be applied, when one considers the thou­
sands of vineyards involved. However, the chances are better for good
wines being made when conditions are generally favorable, and with
these reservations in mind, a vintage chart will be useful to you.

NOTES ON BORDEAUX VINTAGES

1928The '28 and '29 vintages are linked together. As occasionally
happens, two very good vintages will succeed each other. Both
were excellent but the '29 being more elegant and precocious,
overshadowed the '28. The '29 clarets were more costly, but not
necessarily a better value. The white wines were very fine in
both years.
1933 The '33 and '34 vintages were a repetition of the '28-29 situa­
tion.
1934 The '34 developed more rapidly and produced the bigger wines.
However, both were excellent.
1937 A very fine vintage. Big wines, rich in character and body. White
wines exceptionally fine.
34 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

1938 A fairly good vintage.

1939 Average quality only. White wines abundant, but uneven.
1940 Good quality clarets. White wines, average.
1941 Poor.
1942 Good quality both in clarets and white wines.
1943 Very good clarets—good for white wines too.
1944 A good average vintage.
1945 Although the yield was small, the quality was very good.
1946 An average vintage, generally speaking.
1947 A great vintage, big, fine wines which we will be talking about
for a long time.
1948 A good vintage, overshadowed by the '47s.
1949 Very fine wines; another important year.
1950 Fine wines, developing well.
1951 Average to better than average.
1952 Very good but overpriced and consequently overrated.
1953 Promises to be a grande année. Conditions were optimum. Better
values than the 1952s.

CLASSIFIED GROWTHS

In 1855 a number of Bordeaux wines were to be exhibited at the Ex­

position in Paris. There was some question about the order in which
the wines should be shown as, inevitably, there was rivalry among the
4,000-odd vineyard owners as to who produced the finest wine. In order
to settle the matter once and for all, a jury was selected to taste and
classify the outstanding Clarets and Sauternes in order of merit. Although
this was done nearly a century ago, these classifications still hold, for
the most part, and are accepted the world over. Sixty-one Clarets were
chosen and classified in five classes or groups, while twenty-one Sauternes
were grouped in two main classes and one special class. (See Appendix.)

NOTES ON THE CLASSIFIED CLARET GROWTHS

T o differentiate between a classified Claret and cru bourgeois is easy.

T o tell the difference between a second and a third growth is more diffi­
cult. Most of these sixty-one vineyards produce excellent wines whose
main differences lie in nuances of nose (bouquet), body, and delicacy,
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 35
easily apparent to the connoisseur, but not to the layman. However,
certain basic, distinguishing marks are apparent in wines from different
Parishes or sections. For example, the wines of the Pauillac (Lafite,
Latour, Mouton, etc.) have more body than those of Margaux (Chateau
Margaux), which have finesse and delicacy; while the Clarets of the
Graves (Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Pape Clement, etc.) are
fuller than the Medoc wines mentioned. Even fuller and sturdier are
the Pomerol (Petrus, Certan) and St. Emilion (Ausone, Cheval Blanc,
Belair, etc.).
Chateau Lafite-Rothschild. Lafite is spelled with one "f" and one "t"
and should not be confused with similar names: Laffite, Laffitte, etc.
Through the centuries many legends, wearing the aura of antiquity,
have come to us. According to a document dated 1355, Château Lafite
belonged to a certain Jean de Lafite. In 1868 Baron James de Roths­
child acquired it at private auction for the reputed sum of one hundred
sixty-five thousand pounds, and it is still held by his heirs. In a good
year Chateau Lafite-Rothschild has a magnificent deep color, softness
and delicacy of flavor, and a violet bouquet.
Chateau Latour, also a first growth, takes its name from an ancient
tower. This, according to legend, is the only remaining vestige of the
original castle of St. Lambert, supposedly destroyed by Du Guesclin
when the English were driven out of Gascony. The retiring English,
say the ancient tales, left a vast fortune buried in or near the tower.
But the fortune, as we well know, was buried not below but above the
ground, for the great wines of Chateau Latour have more body and a
more pronounced flavor than either Lafite or Margaux.
Chateau Margaux, in true medieval splendor, once boasted a stout

Vineyard scenes at Château Lafite-Rothschild. (Lett) Sorting freshly picked grapes.

(Right) Loading the douils. (Photos—Julius Wile)
36 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
fortress surrounded by moats a hundred feet wide, which were connected
to the Gironde by canals so that boats could sail up to its very gates.
In 1447, it was the property of Baron François de Montferrand. After
him, it passed through many hands until, in 1879, it came to Count
Pillet-Will who held it until after the war. Today it is owned by a cor­
poration. T h e wines of Château Margaux are generous without being
too full-bodied, refreshing, and with a delightfully fragrant bouquet.
Château Haut-Brion, in the Parish of Pessac in the Graves, is the
fourth and last of the first growths, and the only wine of the sixty to be
chosen from outside the Medoc. It is, in fact, almost in the suburbs of
Bordeaux. Haut-Brion, pronounced O-Bree-on, is, according to some
chroniclers, the French spelling of O'Brien, and this is possible, as there
must have been some Irishmen in Gascony during the English period.
As far back as the fourteenth century, at the Court of Pope Clement V,
these wines were highly regarded. From 1801 to 1804 the lord and master
of the Château was Napoleon's nemesis, my lord Talleyrand. Though
they lack the softness and lightness of their fellow first growths, these
wines are renowned for their full, generous body and beautiful color.
First and foremost among the second growths is Château Mouton
Rothschild. The owners of Mouton did not accept tamely having their
wine ranked below the first four, and as a result adopted the challeng­
ing motto:

Premier ne puis First I cannot be

Second ne daigne Second I do not deign to be
Mouton suis. Mouton I am.

Judging by the prices Mouton usually fetches, they are more than justi­
fied. On the average, Château Mouton-Rothschild is a more costly wine
than any of the four first growths. The 1929 vintage, which was superb, is
commercially exhausted. By this I mean that you cannot get a bottle
in the Bordeaux trade. The last few cases were sold at fabulous prices
(for Bordeaux), something over |6.oo a bottle.
Other well-known second growths in this market are the wines of
Châteaux Léoville-Las Casses, Léoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose-Sarget,
Brane-Cantenac, Cos d'Estournel, and Montrose.
Among the third growths, Châteaux Kirwan, Palmer, and Calon-Ségur
are fairly well-known in America, while among the fourth growths, the
wines of Châteaux Branaire-Duluc-Ducru, Talbot, and Beychevelle are
often seen here.
Of the fifth growths, Château Pontet-Canet, which is never château
bottled, is the best-known. In fact, Pontet-Canet is probably more gen-
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 37

(Left) Destemming and mixing the grapes. (Right) Racking new wine off its lees in a
Bordeaux wine cellar. (Photos—Julius Wile)

erally known than any other classified growth, including the firsts. It is
the property of the famous Bordeaux shippers, Messrs. Cruse et Fils
Frères. When I asked M. Jean Cruse why they had never château bottled
their wine, he explained that by doing so they would be in competition
with every other château bottled wine, with the burden of being a fifth
growth, whereas each shipper who sells Pontet-Canet (and they all do)
feels he is selling his own name and label, and consequently has a more
personal interest in selling the wine. This merchandising policy has
proven extraordinarily successful.
Graves Clarets. Although the Clarets of the Graves and the St. Emilion
were not included in the official classification of 1855, some exceptionally
fine wines are produced in these districts. From the Graves come such
outstanding wines as Châteaux La Mission-Haut-Brion, Pape-Clement,
Haut Bailly and Smith-Haut-Lafitte. Fuller bodied and not quite as
delicate as the wines of the Medoc, Graves Clarets make up in richness
and bigness what they lack in finesse.
St. Emilion and Pomerol. Politics or jealousy must have had some-
thing to do with the 1855 classification, that the wines of Châteaux Ausone
and Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion, and Petrus, L'Evangile, and Vieux-
Château-Certan in Pomerol were not included. These wines, because of
their deep color, rich bouquet and fullness of body are called the "Bur-
gundies" of Bordeaux. Ausone, whose average yield is quite small, pro-
duces magnificent wines which usually command the highest prices paid
for any Claret. The other wines mentioned fetch prices on a par with
the first and second growths of the Medoc.
Still other wines of great repute are Châteaux Belair, Pavie, Canon,
38 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Magdelaine, and Fourtet in St. Emilion, and La Conseillante, Certan,

Petit Village, Nenin, and Trotanoy in Pomerol. In spite of their excel­
lence, these wines are not well-known in America, and therefore few of
them are to be found in our market.

WHITE WINES OF BORDEAUX

GRAVES

Although more red wine is made in the Graves (rhymes with zouave),
the appellation is used exclusively for white wines—clean, dry, fresh wine
with a pleasant fruity bouquet of its own.
Most of the Graves wines are shipped by the Bordeaux houses under
private brand labels as standard blends; each house having several brands
varying in quality and dryness, in order to please the tastes of their
several world markets. The paler the color, the drier the wine will be.
There are several outstanding château bottled white Graves: Chateaux
Olivier, Carbonnieux, and Haut-Brion Blanc. Of these the best known
in this country is Chateau Olivier, an estate whose castle and vineyards
were renowned in the twelfth century. Here the Prince of Wales, known
as Edward the Black Prince, had a hunting lodge during the time when
Aquitaine was an English domain and he was "Governor General of
Gascony."
The ancient legends of these old châteaux have the perfume and en­
chantment of the wines themselves. It is related of Chateau Carbonnieux
that, in order to convince a certain Sultan of Turkey of the merits of
French wine (wine being prohibited to the Faithful by the Koran),
Chateau Carbonnieux was shipped to him labeled, "Mineral Water of
Carbonnieux." So impressed was the Commander of the Faithful upon
drinking the wine, that he exclaimed: "When they have water that is so
pure and so agreeable, how can the French drink wine?"
These wines are extremely dry, with a clean, invigorating quality that
has made them favorites of connoisseurs in all English-speaking lands.
The grape varieties in the Graves are the Semillon, the Sauvignon
Blanc, and the Muscadelle, principal among them being the Semillon
which gives the wines their luscious, golden finesse, velvetiness, and
aroma. Although the same grape varieties are used in the Graves as in
the Sauternes, a dry wine is produced because the grapes are gathered
when they are ripe, and not left to hang on the vine until over-ripe,
as is done in the Sauternais.
The Sauvignon Blanc produces a wine that is full in body, rich in
bouquet; the Muscadelle produces a highly perfumed wine, but its prin­
cipal use is to act as the preacher to marry the others. In other words, it
is used to knit the wines made from the Semillon and Sauvignon into a
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 39
uniform blend, and also to give a slight Muscat undertone to the w i n e -
very delicate in these wines, but much stronger in the Sauternes.

SAUTERNES

There are five Parishes in the Sauternais: Sauternes, which gives the
generic name to the entire section, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac, and
Barsac. Wine produced from grapes grown in any of these five Parishes
is legally permitted to be called Sauternes.
There is a pronounced difference in the way Sauternes are made as
compared to the Graves. In fact, originally the wine resembled the
Graves. But many years ago, it seems, the owner of a château in this
district was away on a hunting trip. He was delayed and therefore did
not return in time to order the gathering of the grapes when they were
ripe. As his men had no authority to start this work, they waited for the
master to appear, some four weeks later. T h e grapes were over-ripe,
shrivelled and had a mold covering them, but the owner decided to
gather them, none the less, and see what could be done. T o his own
surprise as well as that of everyone else, the wine which developed from
these over-ripe grapes was unlike anything they had seen before, but it
was delicious—very rich, luscious, and highly perfumed.
Today we understand what happened. When the grapes reach a cer­
tain stage of maturity beyond the full stage of ripeness, a new yeast, or
mold, settles upon them, known technically as the Botrytis Cinerea. It is
another of the yeasts floating in the air which settles on the grapes when
they are over-ripe, and gives a very special aroma to the wine.
In the other districts they start gathering grapes before sun-up, but in
the Sauternais they do not begin until the sun is high, about half-past
eight in the morning, and they stop before the sun goes down, because
the dew would wash off some of the Botrytis Cinerea. T h e French call
this condition of over-ripeness "pourriture noble," meaning noble rotten­
ness. They are not, of course, rotten, as rotten grapes are removed lest
they spoil the wine; they are merely over-ripe. Only bunches which are
in a perfect condition of over-ripeness are picked, and therefore a vine­
yard may be gone over as many as eight times before all the grapes are
gathered, a procedure which naturally adds to the cost of production.
Leaving the grapes on the vine until they attain la pourriture noble
has the following results: the water in the grapes is evaporated by the
sun and the sugar concentrated. This gives a smaller yield of juice or
must per acre, but it insures an abundance of richness. Sauternes, conse­
quently, are always rich, sweet wines, when compared to Graves or white
Burgundies. In this sense there is no such thing as a "dry" Sauternes.
There are some who maintain that Château Yquem's greatest vintage
40 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
was produced in 1874, but measured by sugar content, it does not com­
pare to the 1921, which is undoubtedly the greatest Sauternes ever pro­
duced. In that year the must fermented out at an unheard-of fifteen per
cent alcohol, and the sugar content of seven per cent in proportion to
the volume of the wine compared to two and a half to three and a half
per cent of sugar in a normal year.
The wines of the five Sauternes Parishes are all very similar in char­
acter. The important point to remember is that they are all sweet. Sweet­
ness and dryness, of course, are relative qualities. Some Sauternes are
sweeter and richer than others, but compared with white wines from the
Graves or any other section of the Bordeaux wine region, they are so
much softer, sweeter, and fuller bodied, that there is no need to quibble
over the statement that Sauternes is sweet.

THE QUESTION OF BARSAC

Of the five Parishes entitled to the use of the generic term Sauternes,
Barsac is the most enterprising. While the vintners in the Parishes of
Bommes, Fargues and Preignac are content to market their wines simply
as Sauternes, those of Barsac insist that their wines be known by the
name of their Parish. T o say that the wines of Barsac are identical to
those of the Parish of Sauternes is as wrong as to say that Barsac wines
are dry—as many people believe. The wine of Barsac lacks the softness
and finesse of the Sauternes, but taste it and you know that you have a
wine you can figuratively put your teeth into. So far as sweetness is con­
cerned, there is little difference; that is, when chateau bottled wines are
compared.
However, comparing Sauternes and Barsac shipped under the label
of a Bordeaux wine merchant is another story. These are blended wines,
and when the shipper blends, he can do anything he pleases. He can
blend for sweetness, relative dryness, perfume, or body. He knows per­
fectly well that if his Sauternes and Barsac are identical, there is no
purpose in buying both wines. So he blends one wine more for sweetness
than the other, thereby establishing two different wines. There is no
consistency among shippers as to which of the two wines will be the
sweeter.

HAUT SAUTERNES AND HAUT BARSAC

Haut in French means high, so Haut Sauternes literally means High

Sauternes, and indicates that a wine so labeled is of a "higher" or better
quality than one simply labeled Sauternes. Haut Sauternes or Haut
Barsac, being blends of better grades of wine, invariably cost more than
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 41
the simple Sauternes or Barsac of the same vintage and the same shipper,
and are generally sweeter.

SULPHUR

Because these wines are rich in sugar, it is difficult to keep them from
refermenting during unseasonably warm weather. The only preventive
is to sulphur the casks well before they are filled. The sulphur fumes
sterilize the cask, destroying any yeasts which might be present, and
when the wine is poured in, act as a deterrent on the yeasts remaining
in the wine, as they are always ready to continue their fermentation job
under the least provocation.
In the classification of 1855, as explained on page 33, the wines of
the great Sauternes vineyards were classed in order of merit in the same
manner as the Clarets. This embraced 21 growths, which, due to the
split-up of several vineyards is today 23. (See Appendix.)

NOTES ON THE CLASSIFIED SAUTERNES GROWTHS

Chateau Yquem. In the thirteenth century when Edward II was King

of England, his wine merchant and buyer in Bordeaux was Pierre
Ayquem (also spelled Eyquem). It was he or one of his descendants who
gave the family patronym to the vineyard whose storied wines have
evoked more and greater hyperbole than almost any other wine since
the centurian Falernians of Roman times. A few of these are:

"The extravagance of perfection"

"A ray of sunshine concentrated in a glass"
"A ray more brilliant than the sun's"
In fact, in 1859 the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia paid the fabu­
lous sum of 20,000 gold francs for a tun (1200 bottles) of the 1847 vin­
tage. This was about $3.50 per bottle, an unheard-of price in those days.
Until the year 1785 the vineyard with its fine renaissance chateau and
park belonged to the house of Sauvage-Yquem, when it passed through
marriage to the Marquis de Lur Saluces. The present incumbent, the
Marquis Bertrand de Lur Saluces, very kindly cleared up a great many
points about Sauternes for me when he visited America for the opening
of the New York World's Fair in 1939.
There is no question about Yquem's wines being in a class by them­
selves, meriting the apparent exaggerations of poets intoxicated by such
perfection. The finer vintages of Chateau Yquem combine a richness of
perfume, a depth of vinosity and fullness of body all in perfect balance.
There are differences between vintages and some are sweeter than others.
Yquems will vary from a sweet to a deep luscious richness.
42 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Chateau La Tour Blanche. According to ancient documents, this fine

vineyard was at one time the property of Messire Jean Saint-Marc de La
Tour Blanche, Treasurer General of the King. Some time after the
French Revolution, its ownership passed to M. Osiris, who bequeathed
the entire property to the State for a viticultural school.
Chateau La Tour Blanche is generally ranked as the first Sauternes
after Yquem. Its wines are always elegant, full, and rich.
Please note the spelling of "La Tour" as two words. Many people
confuse Château La Tour Blanche, the Sauternes, with Château Latour,
the Claret.
Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau. Property for generations of the Vicomtes
de Pontac, Vigneau has had a glorious history. Its most notable exploit
consisted of defeating the best German wine in a blind tasting at the
World's Fair of 1867 and being selected as the finest white wine of that
age. The two wines in question were a Chateau Vigneau 1861 and a
Rhine wine of the same vintage.
Chateau Suduiraut. Bordering Chateau Yquem, it was formerly con­
trolled by the crown and today its label bears the legend "ancien cru du
Roy" (former property of the King). It is vigorous with a rich aroma.
Chateau Guiraud (formerly Bayle). A beautiful property which in­
cludes a fine vineyard—about 150 acres in extent—a park of 350 acres
and a lovely old chateau. The wine of Chateau Guiraud is famed for its
delicacy, perfume and body. I possessed some Guiraud 1884 which had
acquired a deep golden color, without becoming maderisé.
Chateaux Coutet and Climens. These two first growths, situated in the
Parish of Barsac, possess the typical firmness and elegant bouquet of
Barsac Sauternes. They are Sauternes and just as rich as the other
growths of Bommes, Fargues, Preignac, or Sauternes.
Chateaux Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Rieussec, Rabaud-
Promis, and Sigalas-Rabaud, the other first growths, are all excellent wines
which are available on this market.
Among the second growths, the best known in our market are Chateau
Filhot in the Parish of Sauternes, which is the property of the Marquis
Bertrand de Lur Saluces (Yquem) and Chateau Myrat, in the Parish of
Barsac. Although classed as second growths, they are none the less very
excellent wines possessing a fine rich bouquet and body.

2. BURGUNDY

"None other will I have," (Aultre n'Aray) said Duke Philip the Good,
of Burgundy, when he set his heart on marrying the beautiful Princess
Isabelle. This thoroughly typical phrase was adopted as the ducal motto
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 43
of the House of Burgundy. It represents the attitude of Burgundians then
and now, proud of their race, their lineage, and their wines. It was their
wont to style themselves "Dukes of Burgundy and Lords of the finest
wines in Christendom." Positive, virile, forthright are words which may
be applied alike to the men and wine of Burgundy.
The history of wine in Burgundy dates back to Caesar's conquest of
Gaul and is almost as turbulent as the political story of the region. The
Roman legions planted vines from Italy, and when the wine began com-
peting with that of the mother country, the Emperor Domitian ordered
the vines uprooted and the fields planted in corn. This was in 96 A.D.
Fortunately, the edict was enforced only half-heartedly.
Long before the wine of the region was known by the generic term
Burgundy, the Church—which here, as elsewhere, had a strong influence
in the development of quality wines—had made famous among medieval
gourmets the names of such vineyards as Clos de Bèze, Corton Charle-
magne, Romanée, Clos de Vougeot, Meursault, and Montrachet.
First known as wine of Auxerre, since the wine went to Paris and the
outside world by boat down the river Yonne from the "port" of Auxerre;
and later as wine of Beaune; it was not until the sixteenth century that
it acquired the name Burgundy. When Petrarch advised Pope Urban V
to remove from Avignon to Rome, according to legend, his Holiness
demurred because his entourage complained: "There is no Beaune wine
in Italy, and without Beaune wine how unhappy we would be." This
difficulty seemingly was overcome during the Pontificate of Gregory XII.
Geography. From time immemorial, wine has been Burgundy's chief
source of fame, but, unlike other wine regions, Burgundy wines do not
all come from one concentrated geographical locale. Due to the acquisi-
tiveness of her Dukes, who reached out on all sides for more and more
land, wine produced in every part of the Duchy became known simply
as Burgundy. This wine-producing region includes four separate districts.
First in importance is the "True Burgundy," known today as the
Côte d'Or, or Golden Slopes, which is divided into the Côte de Nuits and
Côte de Beaune. This is a string of low-lying hills, extending some 38
miles from Dijon on the north to Santenay in the south, the width of the
vineyards being from 550 to 600 yards. Second, further south lies the
Mâçonnais and Beaujolais. Third, about halfway between Dijon and
Paris, in the Department of the Yonne, there are a few thousand acres
of vineyards around the town of Chablis, which produce the famous white
wine of the same name. And finally, between the Côte d'Or and the
Mâçonnais lies the Côte Chalonnais.
The soil of the Côte d'Or, rich in iron, is chalky, argillaceous, and
rocky. T h e slopes take their name from the burnished gold appearance
44 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

they present in the late fall when the leaves have fallen off the vine and
the ground is exposed.
Grape Varieties. The fine red wines come from the Pinot Noir, while
the white wines of repute are produced from the Pinot Blanc or Char-
donnay. The Pinot is a noble plant which produces quality but not quan­
tity, and here, as nowhere else, is the vigneron tempted to increase his
output at the sacrifice of quality.
The other variety of grape much used in Burgundy is the Gamay, a
much more productive variety, but lacking the qualities of greatness
found in the Pinot.
The most famous vineyards are found on the slopes with a southern
exposure. They neither extend to the summit of the hills nor reach the
lower plains. The fine vineyards form something like a wide continuous
ribbon laid along the gentle slopes, rarely dropping below the 800 foot
elevation or rising above the 1000 foot level. The plain is some 700 feet
above sea level, and the higher hills are 1500 feet.
It is on these slopes that the Pinot seems to do best and the Gamay is
rarely to be found. On the plains and summits, however, the Gamay is
most in evidence. Wines resulting from an admixture of the two varieties
are known as Passe-tous-grains.
In Burgundy, as in other viticultural regions, the phylloxera did its
devastating work, and today most of the vineyards have been replanted
with American phylloxera-resisting roots on which the native Pinot and
Gamay have been grafted. In a few rare exceptions native stocks still
remain, such as at Romanee-Conti, Les Richebourg, and Les Grands
Echdzeaux. Wines made from these vines at the vineyards mentioned are
bottled separately and are so labeled. Little is produced, and consequently
it commands a much higher price.
The laws controlling the origin and labeling of wines limit the pro­
duction of the vineyards which are capable of producing fine wines in
order to insure the highest quality possible, thus forcing the vigneron to
prune his vines properly. As the quantity is strictly limited, he does every­
thing in his power to aid the vine in giving quality.
The system of vineyard ownership in Burgundy is different from that
of any other viticultural region of France, and duplicated to any extent
only in Germany. T o begin with, the vineyards are all very small. The
largest, Clos de Vougeot, is only some 127 acres, and La Romance is just
about 2 acres, the average being under 25 acres. Not only are the vine­
yards extremely small, but, with rare exceptions, they are held by any­
where from three to as many as forty-odd owners, each proprietor having
title to a small parcel of the vineyard. This is in direct contrast to the
Bordeaux system, where each vineyard is owned by one person or cor-
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 45

Wine LA CÔTE D'OR

DIJON

Regions
of
Burgundy
. FIXEY

CÔTE DE NUITS GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

CLOSDEBÈZE
• CHAMBERTlN
•MOREY
CLOS DE TART
LES MUSIGNY BONNES MARES
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
VOUGEOT
CLOS VOUGEOTO
LESÉCHEZEAUXFLAGEY-ÉCHEZEAUX
ROMANEE CONTI. VOSNE-ROMANÉE
RICHEBOURG.
LES CAILLES-NUITS-ST.GEORGES
LES ST. GEORGES
PREMEAUX
. COMBLACHIEN
CÔTE DE BEAUNE

PERNAND. GORGLOIN
LE CORTON
CLOS DU ROL
LES FÉVES.
ALOXE
LES CORTON
GRËVES
BEAUNE
POMMARD
LES RUGIENS
CAILLERET VOLNAY
LES SANTENOTS

MEURSAULT
CHARMES
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
LE MONTRACHET
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
BATARD-MONTRACHET
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET
SANTENAY
CHAGNY AULTRE N'ARAY
DESIGNED BY M.J. GROSSMAN-EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER
 46 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

poration, and the entire product is controlled by one management.

At Clos de Vougeot, for example, there are 38 owners who cultivate
their individual parcels of the vineyard, gather the grapes from their own
vines, press them, and vinify the resultant must. As the human element
enters into production, it is understandable that, although the same
Pinot variety is planted in the entire vineyard, and all the operations of
making the wine take place at the same time, there may be 38 different
wines produced, all legally entitled to the appellation of Clos de Vougeot.
It is apparent that under this system there can be no château bottling,
as is practiced in Bordeaux. Another system, known as "estate bottling,"
has received great impetus since Repeal in the United States. American
connoisseurs began to demand château bottled Burgundies, and "estate
bottling" was the answer. It was good merchandising on their part, and
benefits us because the Burgundians strive to give America better wines.
Not all of the growers ship their own wines, and if the shippers were
to keep each grower's wines separate their lists would not only be inter­
minable but also very confusing. For this reason, it has been only natural
for shippers to buy, say, Clos de Vougeot from several growers, blend
these wines together, and offer them as their own (the shippers') quality
of Clos de Vougeot. This also tends to equalize the price.
Labeling. A Burgundy wine will bear the best-known or most famous
name to which it is legally entitled. If the name of the vineyard whence
it originates is world famous, rest assured that is the name under which
the wine will travel. If the Parish, however, is more renowned than the
vineyard, then the wine will travel under the Parish name. If neither is
well-known, it will go forth as Côte de Nuits, or Cote de Beaune, or
simply as red or white Burgundy.
For example, wine from the Chambertin vineyard will invariably be
shipped as Chambertin, while wine from the Les Epenottes vineyard in
the Parish of Pommard will reach our table labeled Pommard, because it
is a better known name than Les Epenottes, even though Les Epenottes
is considered one of the finer growths or vineyards of the Parish.
Wine from any vineyard in the Parishes of Comblanchien, Corgoiloin,
or Ladoix will be labeled Côte de Nuits or simply Bourgogne rouge,
because neither the vineyards nor the Parishes are well-known outside
the district. Most of the red wines of the Parishes of Meursault, Puligny-
Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet suffer the same fate and get out
to the world as Côte de Beaune, because these Parishes, while world-
famous for their white wines, are not too well-known for their reds.
The famous vineyards of the Cote d'Or have not been officially classi­
fied, as were those of Bordeaux, but the studied judgment of wine lovers,
who have drunk these wines and matched one against another for over
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 47
a millennium, have established a hierarchy of Burgundy wines which is
generally accepted. At least the prices these great wines fetch indicate
that present-day Burgundy devotees are in agreement with the order of
classification. (See Table of Great Burgundy Vineyards in Appendix.)
The most costly red wine of Burgundy is that of Romanee-Conti, a
rather small vineyard in the Parish of Vosne-Romanée. Like all things,
its price is governed by supply and demand. The area planted in vines is
only a little more than four and a half acres. Its two big rivals, Chamber-
tin and Clos de Vougeot, both much larger vineyards, produce great wines,
honorably challenging Romanée-Conti's place in the Burgundy sun.
Unquestionably the first vineyard among the white wines is Le Mont-
rachet (pronounced Moan'-rah-shay).

NOTES ON THE WINES OF THE COTE D'OR

The wines of the Cote de Nuits are generous, full bodied, having a
deep fruity, vinous bouquet. They develop less rapidly than those of the
Cote de Beaune and should be kept longer, so that their early roughness
will develop that full roundness characteristic of the great Burgundies.
The wines of the C6te de Beaune, on the other hand, having less
body, develop more rapidly and are ready for drinking sooner. They
show a pleasant, fruity bouquet, a softness and finesse, and are tenderly
supple, which makes them most agreeable wines at all times.
Romanee-Conti. The accepted king of Burgundy whose wines (natu-
rally we mean the successful vintages) have all the qualities of a great
wine: body, vinosity, bouquet, and character; they are always rich and
long-lived.
Chambertin. Napoleon, so the story goes, would drink no other wine,
and planned all his great military and civil victories when warmed by the
generous fire of Chambertin. But, the sad tale continues, when he was
before Moscow, his supply became exhausted, with the resulting disas-
trous retreat from Russia. Knowing his penchant for Chambertin, the
allies generously permitted that he be supplied with it at St. Helena.
No one knows the origin of the vineyard of Chambertin. It is lost in
obscurity. But like all ancient vineyards, it is rich in legends. The story
connected with it throws some light on the entire Burgundy viticultural
development. In the year 630, according to the records, the Duc de Amal-
gaire gave a parcel of vineyard, with an area of some 35 acres, to the
Abbey of Beze. Henceforth the vineyard was known as Clos de Beze,
and in time its wines acquired much renown. Sometime later, and before
1219, when we have our next parchment record, a peasant named Bertin
owned the field bordering Clos de Bèze. In his simple way he reasoned
that if he planted the same grape varieties as grew in the famous Clos
48 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

de Beze vineyards, his wines should be good, too. The French word for
field is champ, and the vineyard then must have been known as Champ
de Benin. This was finally contracted to the present Chambertin, and
since 1219 the wines from the two vineyards have been confused and
looked upon as one and the same. Today, therefore, the Chambertin
vineyard includes the Clos de Beze. The total area of both is 671/2 acres,
and the wines go out to the world under the name of Chambertin, al­
though occasionally we will find Clos de Beze in parentheses under the
word Chambertin on a label.
The wines of Chambertin are big, heady wines which acquire a firm
roundness with age. They have the qualities which make great wines-
color, bouquet, body, and finesse.
Clos de Vougeot. These are fruity wines, having flavor, color, body,
bouquet, and an infinite grace and character. The elegance of its wines
has merited Clos de Vougeot an honor which is today traditional. During
the Napoleonic wars, one Colonel Bisson, marching past the gates of the
Clos de Vougeot at the head of his column, ordered that a roll be beat and
that his men present arms before a vineyard whose wines were so mag­
nificent. This tradition is observed today by all French military units
which have occasion to pass Clos de Vougeot.
The Little Corporal, it is said, conqueror on the fields of Austerlitz
and Marengo, and now become all-powerful Emperor, heard of the ex­
cellent wines made at Vougeot. He sent word to one Dom Gobelet, the
last clerical cellar-master prior to the French Revolution, saying that it
would please him to taste these superlative wines. "If he is that curious,"
replied the venerable Cistercian haughtily, "let him come to my house."
Les Musigny and Les Bonnes Mares. These two great rival vineyards
lie in the Parish of Chambolle-Musigny. Both these wines are known for
their finesse, suppleness and elegance, but, although they are similar in
character, Les Musigny is the bigger of the two. In 1882, the leaders of
the Parish decided that the sale of all its wines would be increased if
the Parish were to adopt the name of its most famous vineyard, and
therefore Chambolle became Chambolle-Musigny. This system has been
adopted by the Parishes of Gevrey-Chambertin, Flagey-Echézeaux, Vosne-
Romanee, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, Puligny-Montrachet, and
Chassagne-Montrachet.
Romanee, Romanee-St. Vivant, Richebourg, La Tâche. The Parish
richest in great vineyards is Vosne-Romanée. These vineyards vary in
size from the bare two acres of La Romanee, 3 1/2 acres for La Tâche,
121/2 acres of Les Richebourg, to the almost 24 acres of Romanée-Saint-
Vivant. The wines of these four great growths differ, but it would take
one long accustomed to drinking them to identify these differences. Suf-
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 49
fice it to say that they all have beautiful color, a deep bouquet and flavor,
and that they have body, elegance and, above all, breed.
Les Grands Echézeaux. These 23 acres of vineyard lie across the road
from Clos de Vougeot, and there is a close resemblance between the wines.
There was a time, long past, when the vineyard belonged to the Abbey
of Saint-Vivant and was considered a part of Vosne, and to this day it is
thought of in the same breath with the wines of Vosne-Romanée. Its
wines are big and colorful, having much character and breed.
Clos de Tart, Clos Des Lambray, Les Saint-Georges. The first two
vineyards, with an acreage of 171/2and 221/2 respectively, lie in the Parish
of Morey-St. Denis. The 20 acres of the Saint-Georges are in the Parish
of Nuits-Saint-Georges. These three great vineyards of the Côte de Nuits
have rich wines, with color, body, and character, though not to the
same extent as Chambertin, for example, or Clos de Vougeot.

CÔTE DE BEAUNE

Le Corton, Clos du Roi. In the Parish of Aloxe-Corton lie the famous

vineyards of Le Corton, with an area of 281/4 acres, and Clos du Roi,
with 261/4 acres. Corton's wines are solid and robust. When young they
are somewhat hard, but after acquiring bottle-ripeness, they expand and
possess a wealth of bouquet, roundness, breed, and body which can be
compared only with the great Côte de Nuits wines. Clos du Roi, while
also a big wine, leans more to the character of the Côte de Beaune wines.
The wines have a beautiful color, bouquet, and finesse.
Vergelesses. Ile des Vergelesses and Les Basses-Vergelesses, with an area
of 231/3 and 44 2/3 acres respectively, in the Parish of Pernand, are
renowned for their finesse and distinction.
Les Fèves, Les Grèves. These are the two outstanding examples of
Côte de Beaune wines. Les Fèves, with 10 2/3 acres, and Les Grèves, with
791/2acres, produce wines noted for their fine, rich softness and elegance.
Les Rugiens-Bas. The Parish name, Pommard, is more widely known
than that of its finest vineyard, Rugiens, and for this reason much of its
produce comes to our table labeled simply Pommard. Should you come
upon an authentic and properly matured example of Pommard-Rugiens,
you will find it a delicate, well-rounded wine of character.

MAÇONNAIS AND BEAUJOLAIS

On the rolling low hills immediately south of the Côte d'Or lie the
districts of Mâcon and Beaujolais. It is hard to tell where one begins and
the other leaves off, but as the wines they produce are so similar in char-
acter, we can consider them as one region.
 50 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

In the Côte d'Or, the Gamay grape variety is used for quantity rather
than quality, but in the Beaujolais it produces the fine wines and is used
extensively. Most of the wine goes to market under the generic name of
Mâcon or Beaujolais, and occasionally under the names of the few better
known places of the region, such as Moulin-à-Vent, Morgon, Romanèche-
Thorins, Juliénas, and Fleurie.
The wines of the region have a clear brilliant color and a fairly light
body, when compared with those of the Côte d'Or. Their primary char-
acteristic is fresh fruitiness. They are most pleasant while in the fresh
vigor of youth, and for this reason should not be kept for many years.
In France, most of these wines are drunk before they are four years old,
in fact from the wood, without benefit of bottling.

WHITE WINES OF BURGUNDY

All of the main sub-divisions of the Burgundy wine region produce

white wines, each of which is of an individual character and has its
following. The Mâconnais gives us Pouilly; the Department of the Yonne,
or Lower Burgundy, Chablis; and the Côte d'Or, or rather the Côte de
Beaune, produces, in the Parishes of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and
Chassagne-Montrachet, the great white wines.
For the making of white wines the plant noble is the Chardonnay
(Chardonet) or white Pinot. Other varieties of grape are used, but to a very
minor degree, excepting the Aligoté which is found in most vineyards.
The wine which the world knows as Chablis is unique and possesses a
character all its own. The distinguishing characteristic, which is not to
be found in every vintage, is an austere flinty quality, much prized by
those who have had the good fortune to encounter it. Chablis is, perhaps,
the driest and palest of table wines. Its color should be a pale straw-gold.
We have seen Chablis which was brownish in color, but it tasted as it
looked and not as Chablis should—dry and crisp.
The much prized "flinty" quality is known as pierre-à-fusil (gunmetal.)
This flinty taste is like the sharp, metallic tang most of us have experi-
enced when, as children, we were dared to taste metal on a frosty morn-
ing. Chablis has the same effect. Added to this is its delicate, fruity bou-
quet and herein lies its cooling, refreshing quality. Although in good
years, Chablis is a long-lived wine, I prefer it young and fresh. There is
no wine that can match Chablis with oysters. They were made for each
other, and you will agree with me if you try this combination.
There are a few outstanding vineyards in the Chablis region, which
are listed below, but "estate bottling" is rare, and most of the wine reaches
us labeled simply Chablis or Chablis Supérieures. These are blended
wines, the blend being made of wines from several vineyards. "Supé-
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 51

Mâconnais

&

Beaujolais

Chablis

Finest growths 1
First growths 2
Secondgrowths 3
Third growths 4
DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C. W MASSAGUER
 52 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

rieures" indicates that the wines are of superior quality. The reputation
of the shipper is your best guarantee of quality.
The famous Chablis vineyards include: Les Clos, Vaudésir, Valmur,
Grenouille, Blanchot, Preuse, Bougros, Vaulorents, and Monts de Milieu.
There is apt to be some argument over the question of the greatest
white wine. There can be no hesitation, however, in regard to Le Mont-
rachet. It is one of the world's great white wines, full-bodied and robust,
yet possessing an elegance, perfume, and dignity hard to match. Coming
from a rather small vineyard, only 183/4 acres in extent—half of which
lies in the Parish of Puligny and half in that of Chassagne—the wines are
in such demand that they usually fetch prices equal to those of the great
red growths of the Cote de Nuits.
Besides Le Montrachet, which H. Warner Allen has called the Château
Yquem of Burgundy, there are two other vineyards of great repute to be
found in the two Parishes. Le Batard-Montrachet lies in both Parishes,
while the Chevalier-Montrachet growth is in the Parish of Puligny-
Montrachet. The wines of these two growths are very much like those of
Le Montrachet, and while very fine do not quite reach its heights of
quality. All of these wines are quite pale in color, have a wealth of
bouquet and finesse, and are never cheap. Of recent years, there have
been more estate-bottlings of these wines on the market.
The Parish of Meursault boasts four vineyards of repute, which, in the
order of their importance, are: Les Perrières, Les Genevrières, Les
Charmes-Dessus and La Goutte-d'Or. The wines of these vineyards are
not as big as those of Montrachet but they are full-bodied, dry, have
finesse and elegance. The Meursault-Charmes has a brisk, vivacious fra-
grance that is delightful, as 1 can vouch for from tasting a 1926 vintage of

B u r g u n d y . ( L e f t ) D o u b l e w a l l e d c o p p e r cart for h e a t i n g g r a p e s b e f o r e f e r m e n t a t i o n .
( R i g h t ) N o v e l seesaw a p p a r a t u s f o r d e c a n t i n g o l d w i n e off its s e d i m e n t . (Photos—
Julius Wile)
 THE W I N E S OF FRANCE 53
this growth at a recent dinner of the Wine and Food Society in New York.
Meursault-La Goutte-d'Or obtains its name from its golden color. It
does not possess the finesse of the others.
In the Parish of Aloxe-Corton, some white wine is made at the famous
Le Corton vineyard, and much more in the Charlemagne vineyard, which,
at one time, is said to have belonged to the great Emperor. Some, but very
little, white wine is also produced at Clos de Vougeot. These wines are ex­
cellent and must be included in any list of white Burgundies, but these
Parishes are still more famed for their great red wines.

NOTES ON BURGUNDY VINTAGES

1928 Very fine, beautiful wines—'29 the better of the two.
1929
1933 Like the '28 and '29—big, fine wines.
1934
1937 A great year quality-wise, quantity small.
1938 On the whole these vintages were irregular, but some good and
1941 fine wines were produced.
1942 Average to better than average year.
1943 Very good. Best war vintage.
1944 Medium quality only.
1945 The first of the great post-war vintages.
1946 A very satisfactory vintage.
1947 Probably the best vintage of the 20th Century.
1948 A very good vintage.
1949 Even better. Excellent!
1950 Good, better than average year.
1951 Fair.
1952 A fine, very promising vintage.
1953 On the whole, promises to become a great vintage. Hardly any
Chablis was produced, due to hail.

SPARKLING BURGUNDY

The discovery of sparkling wine in Champagne set off the spark which
became a conflagration in all the wine-producing regions of Europe, and
even to this day sparkling wine continues to be made with more or less
success wherever wine grapes grow. Burgundy's sparkling wine has en­
joyed the greatest amount of public acceptance after Champagne, through­
out the world. This has been primarily because of fashion and because
its wines were best for the making of this type of wine, the most pleasant,
and the prettiest to look at.
54 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Sparkling wines are made in Burgundy from white, rose or pink, and
red wines. They are made in the approved sparkling Champagne method,
which is explained in the section on Champagne. In most instances, good
sound wines are used, but never the great wines. Obviously, the great
wines will fetch much higher prices as still wines.
Pink sparkling Burgundy is usually labeled Oeil de Perdrix (partridge
eye).
As a general rule, sparkling Burgundies are sweeter than Champagne.
This is due to the fact that at the time the sediment is removed, the loss
of wine is replaced with a substantial dosage of syrup made from the
finest rock-sugar candy.
Sparkling Burgundy is always a much heavier wine than Champagne
because the wines of Burgundy are heavier bodied by nature.
There was a recent controversy on the subject of whether or not spar­
kling Burgundy is sold in France. Sparkling wine of Burgundy is sold in
substantial volume in France under the name of Vin Mousseux de la
Bourgogne, which means "sparkling wine of Burgundy," and it is drunk
by the Burgundians themselves.

3. CHAMPAGNE

The word Champagne is synonymous with happiness, gaiety, laughter,

for it is the joyous wine of festive occasions. "Champagne," said Andre L.
Simon, "has always been, still is, and will ever be an extravagant wine,
and the most charming and fascinating of wines."
There is a difference between La Champagne and Le Champagne. The
former is the name of the ancient French Province, part of which is today
the Department of La Marne; the latter is the wine produced in this long-
famous wine region.
Wine has been made in Champagne since the early Roman times, since
Caesar came and saw and conquered Gaul. That early wine, however,
was a still wine, and even today a still Champagne is made. However,
Champagne has become known throughout the world as a sparkling
white wine, whose sparkle is due to a secondary fermentation that takes
place within the tightly corked bottle.
T h e history of the province and of its wine is intertwined, part of the
same fabric. The most important city, Reims, was named for Saint Remi,
one of its first archbishops, who, in the year 496 A.D. converted the first
Frankish King, Clovis, to Christianity, and at the baptism presented
Clovis with a cask of Champagne from his own vineyard.
Henri IV of France prided himself on the fact that he was a vineyard
owner and vintner. His vineyard properties were near Ay, and he had a
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 55

Region of
Champagne
DESIGNED BYH.J.GROSSMANEXECUTEDBYC.W.MASSAGUER

pressing house and cellars in the town. They still stand and may be seen
today by anyone visiting this charming little town, which is the center of
the region producing the finest "black" grapes of La Champagne. Henri
was fond of styling himself Roi de France et de Navarre et Sire d'Ay
(King of France and Navarre and Lord of Ay).
It was not until the seventeenth century that the sparkling wine we
associate with the name of Champagne came into use. Some say that Dom
Perignon, a pious Benedictine monk who was treasurer; and head cellarer
of the Abbey of Hautvillers near Epernay, is; the man who put the bub­
bles in Champagne. Like the Parson Weems' story of George Washington
and the cherry tree, this legend cannot stand too close examination. How­
ever, Dom Pérignon did more for Champagne than any man who pre­
ceded him. For nearly half a century (1668-1715) he was in charge of
wine-making, and, more important, he received the wines which came to
the Abbey in the form of tithes from the peasant vineyard owners of the
Parish. Being an excellent taster, he soon observed that the wines of one
vineyard were consistently dry, those of another richer and fuller bodied,
while those of a third possessed more finesse. He decided to try blending
these wines to produce a more balanced and uniform wine, and the result
was that he made better wines than any which had been produced before,
and to this day the system is followed.
56 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

It was Dom Pérignon, too, who was first to use the bark of the cork tree
as a stopper for Champagne bottles. Although cork bark had been used
in other wine regions, Dom Pérignon introduced it in the Champagne
region to replace the bits of tow soaked in oil as a stopper, making it pos­
sible to retain the sparkle in the wine for a much longer period of time.
The vineyard farmers revere his name, have erected statues to his mem­
ory, and in 1939, celebrated the tercentenary of his birth.
Geography. The region which produces Champagne is the most north­
erly wine-producing section of France. It lies chiefly in the Department of
the Marne, with parts of the Departments of the Haut Marne and the
Aube included. As you will note from the map, to the east is Alsace, and
to the south, Burgundy. The Marne River forms an important line of
division. North of the Marne are grown only black grapes, around the
towns of Ay and Hautvillers, and in the Montagne (mountain) de Reims
section at Mailly, Verzy, Verzenay, Bouzy, and Ambonnay. South of the
river lies the Cote des Blancs, where white grapes are grown—around the
towns of Cramant, Avize, Oger, Le Mesnil, and at Vertus. The soil of the
country is quite chalky, a quality which does much to give grapes, grown
from the same vine as that used in Burgundy to the south, such a
different character.
Grape Varieties. The informing grape varieties are Pinot Noir, and
Chardonnay (spelled Chardonnet in Burgundy) or white Pinot, the same
varieties grown in the Burgundy region.

THE CHAMPAGNE VINTAGE

Since the wine is a blend of wines made from grapes grown in a num­
ber of different vineyards, no vineyard name appears on the label, and
consequently the name of the "blender" or shipper, which is always there,
takes on importance. Each important shipper owns vineyards in the vari­
ous districts named above, but as a rule his own vineyards do not produce
enough grapes for his needs, so he has to buy additional quantities from
the smaller vineyard owners, who are not shippers.
The actual vintaging operations begin at the end of September or the
early part of October, depending on weather conditions. Their success
requires the discipline and organization of an army. The pickers, ranging
in age from seven to seventy, are split into groups under the direction of
a sergeant; a group of more experienced workers acts as sorters, and the
work of the entire vineyard is under the direction of a head vintager,
whose responsibility it is that the work is done rapidly and efficiently. In
charge of all the vineyards is the chief of the vintage, who goes from vine­
yard to vineyard supervising the gathering and seeing to it that the grapes
keep moving to the press. The chief cellarer is in charge at the pressing
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 57
house, and in command of the entire operation is the regisseur, or gen-
eral production manager of the house.
The ripe grapes are gathered in baskets, called paniers. As soon as a
basket is full, it is taken to the side of the road where experienced sorters
examine the grapes to see that only sound ones go to the press. Green or
over-ripe grapes are carefully culled out. After being sorted, the grapes
are placed in large baskets called clayettes, and set to one side.
Although some of the very large firms have several pressing houses, it is
usual for the grapes to be pressed at the cellars in the town where the
firm is located. Large hydraulic presses are used which will hold from
8,800 to 11,500 pounds. Each basket is weighed and marked to insure the
exact quantity being placed in the press. The amount of grapes which
make one loading of a press is called a marc. From each marc, four press-
ings or qualities of juice are obtained. They are known as cuvée, première
taille, deuxième taille, rebèche.
Pressure is applied twice for the cuvée, and after each pressure the
grapes are worked towards the center of the press with wooden shovels.
For the première and deuxième tailles, pressure is applied only once. For
the rebèche, the marc is removed to a smaller press. The houses which
pride themselves on the quality of their wines use only the cuvée and
première taille pressings, selling the wine resulting from the deuxième
taille and rebèche in cask to those who will buy it.
As the juice is expressed from the grapes, it gushes out from the bottom
of the press through a channel and is gathered in a cistern below the
presses, whence it is transferred at once into casks where the must fer-
ments into wine. Each cask is carefully marked with the name of the vine-
yard where the grapes were grown.

C h a m p a g n e cellar scenes. (Left) L o a d i n g the presses at v i n t a g e t i m e . (Right) P e r f o r m -

i n g t h e remuage o r s h a k i n g o p e r a t i o n . (Photos—J. B o l l i n g e r )
58 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
The casks are not completely filled, and the bung is left open so that
the carbonic acid gases created and the overflow of impurities may escape.
When the first violent fermentation subsides and the wine becomes quiet,
the bung is driven home and the wine rests through the winter months.
Some of the natural sugar will remain unfermented, because the cold
weather arrests the action of the saccharomycetes, which are hibernating
creatures. In the spring, when the sap begins to rise in the vines, the wine
will begin to work again, and the interrupted work of fermentation will
commence anew where it left off. Before this happens, however, the régis­
seur and the maitre de chai (head cellarer) carefully taste the wines and
decide what proportions of wines of different vineyards are to go into the
cuvée (the blend). The decision having been made, the new wines are
pumped, in the agreed proportions, into large blending vats, where they
are thoroughly married. At this point a small amount of the finest cane
rock sugar candy, dissolved in old wine, is added to the blend, to assure
uniform secondary fermentation. This process is called the dosage de
tirage (bottling dosage). The quantity of sugar varies from year to year,
depending on the natural sugar the new wine contains. The wine is then
immediately bottled and corked. The corks are held in place by metal
clips known as agrafes.
The bottles are stacked on their sides in the cellars which are hewn out
of the solid chalk subsoil of the region.
The saccharomycetes discover the additional sugar, realize that they
haven't finished their job, and go back to work with a vim, creating addi­
tional alcohol and carbonic acid gas. As the gas cannot escape it finally
becomes a component part of the wine.
During the first couple of years, the stacks of bottles are examined for
breakage. This is an inevitable expense as there are bound to be a few
imperfect bottles which cannot stand the strain of the 70 to 80 pounds
pressure developed by the newly created gas. In the early days the per­
centage of breakage was terrific (sometimes as much as every other bottle),
but today, with improved bottle manufacture and the scientific use of the
saccharometer to measure the exact sugar content of the wine, breakage
has been reduced to less than one per cent.
Then the bottles are restacked, this time head down. They remain in
this position until they are to be prepared for shipment. The time varies,
some wine being shipped when it has been in the bottle four years, but
the usual time is five or six or more years after the vintage.
Remuage. The action of fermentation is like a fire. Where there is fire,
there are ashes. As a result of the secondary fermentation which has taken
place in the bottle, "ashes" have been left in the form of a sediment which
must be removed, as one of the shipper's aims is to offer a clear and bril-
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 59
liant wine. Removal of the sediment is not an easy job as it may adhere
to the bottle or may float in the wine. This long, hard, tedious job is ac­
complished as follows: the bottles are placed in specially built racks,
called pupitres. At first the bottles are at an angle of some 45 degrees, the
angle being gradually increased until the bottles are standing perpendic­
ularly, head down. Every day or so an expert workman will grasp each bot­
tle, give it a shake (remuage), and let it fall back into its slot on the rack
with a small jolt. The object of this daily remuage is to shake the sedi­
ment down on to the cork. This operation takes from three to four
months. When the wine is perfectly clear, the bottles are stood head down
in baskets, in which they are transferred to an upper chamber of the cel­
lars to have the sediment removed.
Degorgement. Sometimes the sediment has hardened as a crust on the
inner surface of the cork, but to make sure that it won't slip back into the
wine when the bottle is turned, the neck of the bottle is dipped in a brine
solution which freezes a little wine on the cork with the sediment.
A skilled workman, wearing a leather apron and often a wire-covered
mask to protect his face from a bursting bottle, grasps the bottle. Stand­
ing opposite a barrel surmounted with a shield, he releases the agrafes
(clips holding the cork) with a pair of pliers. The cork flies out, taking
the frozen bit of sediment with it. He gives the neck of the bottle two
sharp raps to loosen any bit of sediment which may have adhered to the
neck of the bottle. A small amount of the wine will foam out. He exam­
ines this foam to be sure that the wine has a perfectly clean bouquet, and
then hands the bottle to another workman sitting nearby who will add
the liqueur d'expedition (shipping dosage).
Liqueur d'Expedition. The wine which has been lost during the dis­
gorging of the sediment must be replaced. This is done by adding wine
from previously disgorged bottles. Some markets, however, like sweeter
wines than others and for these markets a small amount of a sweetening
liqueur is added. This liqueur d'expedition is made up of the finest cane
rock sugar candy, dissolved in old wine.
Corking and Labeling. The shipping cork is now driven in by machine
and tightly wired down. The bottle now goes back to the cellars for a fur­
ther rest of eight to twelve months before the labels and the metal or tin­
foil capsule dressing are put on. When this is accomplished, it is ready to
start its journey to our table, to help us celebrate our most joyous and
triumphant moments.
Labeling. Because tastes vary, and some people prefer a dry and others
a sweet Champagne, the shippers have adopted a simple system of mark­
ing their labels, so that you will know just how sweet the wine in the
bottle is. The following list should serve as a general guide to denote the
6o GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

varying qualities of sweetness. All shippers use these descriptive terms.

There is, however, a certain degree of variation. Thus, while a Brut is al­
ways drier than an Extra Sec, one shipper's Brut may be slightly drier
than another's.

Brut or Nature very, very dry 5 to 1.5 per cent

sweetening
Extra Sec or Extra Dry somewhat sweeter but 1.5 to 3 per cent
fairly dry sweetening
Sec or Dry medium sweet 3 to 5 Per cent
sweetening
Demi Sec quite sweet 5 to 7 per cent
sweetening
Doux very sweet 7percentormore
sweetening

As in other wine-producing regions, the quality of the grapes and the

resultant wine vary greatly according to the summer weather conditions.
Three qualities of vintage are possible: 1. Disastrously bad, when the
wine is thin and has little character. No reputable house will bottle it.
2. Fairly good wines, lacking some quality which can be made up by
blending with wines of a previous vintage. 3. Fine, well-balanced wines
which need no assistance and can stand on their own feet. This last will
happen two, three, or possibly four times in a decade. Bottles of wine in
the third category will be dated with the year in which the grapes which
produced them were grown. These are known as Vintage wines. Wines of
the second category, blends of several vintages, are not dated and are
known in the trade as Non-vintage wines.
Vintage Wines. Knowledge of Champagne vintages is important. For
use in America, we recommend younger wines, because fine old vintage
Champagne is one of the most delicate of all wines. A fine vintage will
develop and mature nobly with the years if it is properly stored and un­
disturbed, but it does not travel properly when old and has a tendency
to become heavy. On the other hand, young wines have a light fruity
freshness which is their most charming characteristic. Most of the great
houses shipped the following vintages:

C H A M P A G N E VINTAGES

1928 T w o of the finest vintages in Champagne. The wines were deli-

1929 cate, with fine bouquet and body. However, it is difficult to find
the leading shippers' brands of these vintages any longer.
 THE WINES OF FRANCE 6l

1933 Both were excellent vintages and were shipped by practically

1934 all the houses. The 1933 did not quite match the 1934.
1937 A fine year, shipped by all houses.
1943 A great year. Fine wines.
1945 A great vintage, shipped by most houses.
1947 Exceptionally fine wines.
1949 Very good quality; big wines. Shipped by all houses.
195a Big, fine crop. Great quality wine.
1953 Promises to be better than the 1952. Although it is too early to
know for sure, it is quite probable that both the 1952 and the
1953 will be shipped.

Non-vintage. Wine is produced every year, regardless of quality. In the

years when the quality is not up to "vintage" standards, it is helped by
blending with wines kept in reserve from successful previous crops and
shipped as a wine without a vintage date on the label. These are the
Champagne houses' standard wines. Non-vintage Champagne is always
less expensive than vintage, but this does not mean that the quality is
necessarily less. Many non-vintage wines of the great houses are very fine.
English Market. The first Champagne salesman was the Marquis de
Sillery, of the seventeenth century. He was one of the richest vineyard
owners of the region, and in great favor at Court. He introduced spark­
ling Champagne at Court and was the first to ship it to England.
What the Marquis de Sillery did for sparkling Champagne in France,
St. Evremond did in London. Soldier, writer, philosopher, and courtier,
he was last but not least a gourmet and a connoisseur. Having incurred
the displeasure of his king, he left France and settled in London where
he became one of the brightest lights of London society. He made it the
fashion to drink Champagne, and the English ever since have been recog­
nized as the most discriminating connoisseurs of fine Champagne and are
the region's best customers outside of France.
Wines of every degree of sweetness are shipped to London, although
the driest, or Brut wines predominate. The fine wines are sent to Lon­
don. Indeed, because of this, some Americans prefer to buy their Cham­
pagne through English wine merchants, paying the added English profit,
in order to be sure they are getting the best wine—the wine selected for
62 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the English market. The leading French brands, however, are shipped to
America in the identical quality that they are to England.
Bottle sizes. Once a bottle of Champagne is broached, it must be con­
sumed in its entirety because the gas escapes and it is impractical to re-
cork it. For this reason the shippers bottle the wine in various sized con­
tainers to meet as many situations as possible. Each bottle has a name:

Split, baby or nip 61/2 oz.

Pint 13
Bottle or quart 26
Magnum (2 quarts) 52 "
Jeroboam or double-magnum 104 "
Rehoboam (6 quarts) 156
Rarely Ever Shipped
Methuselah (8 quarts) 208 oz. (1.65 gals.)
Salmanazar (12 quarts) 312 " (2.44 " )
Balthazar (16 quarts) 416 " (3-3 " )
Nebuchadnezzar (20 quarts) 520 " (4.07 " )

Champagne develops better and more quickly in a large container than

in a small one, but it is a good point to know that the shippers do not
mature their wines in any other sizes than the pint, quart, and magnum.
All other sizes are filled by decanting from quarts. Therefore, the best
size to use is the magnum if there are enough people in the party, and
the next best is the quart.
Uses of Champagne. Champagne is one of the most delicate and de­
lightful of all wines, but because it takes so long and is so costly to pro­
duce, it can never be a cheap wine. This puts it in a class by itself as the
"glamour" wine. It is indispensable at weddings, receptions, and formal
banquets but its uses do not stop there. Champagne is just as much at
home with oysters as it is with ham or dessert. I do not enjoy an ex­
tremely dry Brut with a strawberry mousse, but a Sec is very pleasant.
A cold glass of Champagne makes a delightful aperitif or, if it is pre­
ferred, it can be made into the ever popular Champagne cocktail by add­
ing a cube of sugar on which a dash of bitters has been allowed to soak,
and a twist of lemon peel. Champagne also finds its use in the kitchen.
Still Champagne. Any wine made from grapes grown in the ancient
province of Champagne is entitled to be called Champagne, whether it
be sparkling or still wine.
Some still wine is produced in the region and is consumed locally, but
little of it is shipped. This wine may be labeled "Champagne Nature" or
"Vin de Table de la Champagne." It is an extremely dry white wine with
the characteristic bouquet we find in sparkling Champagne. It is not
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 63

great but always a very pleasant, fresh, light-bodied luncheon wine. It

should be served well chilled.

4. ALSACE - FRENCH RHINE WINES

Alsace is the bone over which the Frank and Teuton dogs of war have
been scrapping for hundreds of years, the buffer province on the left bank
of the Rhine which extends from Strasbourg south to Switzerland, and
lies between the Rhine and the Vosges Mountains.
Alsace has been an important wine producing region since the Roman
conquerors occupied the Valley of the Rhine. Undoubtedly they planted
the vine in Alsace before they did in Germany. The vines they brought
from Italy were not the same as those which flourish there today, but the
records do not show when the change occurred.
During the half-century of German suzerainty, the Alsatian identity of
these fine wines was submerged, and while much wine was made, it was
all consumed in Germany or used for blending purposes. Quantity rather
than quality was the order.
The Alsatian vintner's life has never been an easy one. There is a rec­
ord that in 1473 the vintage was so abundant that 35 gallons of wine were
exchanged for a basket of turnips.
" . . . a fertile country," -wrote Julius Wile recently, "fields and valleys
waving with grain, hillsides covered with symmetric rows of vines march­
ing up and up until they merge with the orchards, bearers of the fruits
from which are distilled the famous eaux-de-vie d'Alsace, Quetsch, Mira-

Wine
Region
of Alsace

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN-EXECUTED BY CONRADO W. MASSAGUER

64 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

belle (plum brandies) and Kirsch (cherry brandy); and the orchards finally
give way to the mighty forests which top the hills and cover the Vosges
Mountains—forests filled with game—deer, wild boar, fox, hare, and all
varieties of birds. . . .
"There is an atmosphere in Alsace—one of close alliance between man
and soil, an aura of maturity combined with a freshness of spirit, of physi­
cal youngness that one finds even in the aged, of a people that has known
the past, lives in the present, and does not fear the future; of a life that
includes the good things of old and yet leaves space for the changes of
today.
"It is something of all this that one finds in their wines. Wines that are
firm and winy, and at the same time fresh, flowery and delicate—white
wines of distinctive characteristics, not the finest wines of France, but
worthy of their own separate place in the sun."
Geography. Beginning in the north and continuing southward, the
towns whose surrounding vineyards are famous are:
Obernai. Its best-known vineyard is that of Clos Sainte-Odile.
Barr. Whose wine from the famous "Clos Gaensbroennel" hill vineyard
was popular on the French Line luxury liners.
Colmar. The center of the Alsatian wine trade.
Ribeauville and Riquewihr. In the center of the region. They have
long enjoyed the reputation of producing the best Alsatian wines.
Guebwiller and Thann. Almost in the shadows of Switzerland, the
southernmost towns of the region. There is a hill at Guebwiller called
"Kitterle" or "leg-cutter." These leg-cutter wines are said to have been
one of Napoleon's favorites.
Grapes and Labeling. In Alsace the name of the wine is generally
determined by the grape variety from which it is made, instead of
from the name of the place or the vineyard. There are exceptions, such
as Clos Gaensbroennel and Clos Sainte-Odile, and often the name of the
nearest town or village is used in conjunction with the grape name, as in
Traminer of Ribeauville.
The grape varieties listed below are the correct, or generic names, but
often they appear on the labels under their local or Alsatian names. In
order to avoid confusion the labeling term is set in bold type. We are
indebted to Julius Wile for a clear description of quality. In ascending
order they are:
Knipperlé. Good or ordinary wines.
Chasselas. About the same quality but used mostly as a table grape.
Sylvaner. A better wine of more finesse.
Riesling. Excellent, dry, fruity wines closely approximating the dry
light Moselle wines.
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 65
Pinot Rouge. Called locally Klevner, producing a fine fruity wine.
Pinot Blanc. Not very common.
Pinot Gris. Locally known as Tokay, but rarely exported. Good wine
of body and fruit.
Traminer. Also known as the Gentil, similar to the Riesling.
Gewuerz-Traminer. The finest of all wines with a rich fruitiness, pro­
nounced flowery bouquet, tang, and body; however, as it is not so dry,
there are those who prefer a good Riesling.
In addition to these there are two other classifications which may be
found on Alsatian labels and which are not grape names. They are:
Zwicker. Denotes a blend of ordinary wines.
Edelzwicker. A blend of finer wines.
Alsatian wines are bottled in the long, slim, flute bottle generally called
the Rhine wine bottle. The color of the glass is green.
The Vintage. The growing of the vine and the vintage do not differ
radically from other white wine regions. The several grape varieties do
not ripen at the same time, and as a vineyard will be planted with three,
four, or more varieties, it must be gone over several times. In the case of
the Gewuerz-Traminer, only very ripe (preferably pourriture noble)
grapes are picked, to insure richness of body and perfume.
Alsatian wines are generally bottled very young, in the spring or sum­
mer following the vintage. They are at their best when relatively young,
as freshness is one of their most pleasant characteristics, a quality which
turns to a heavy after taste when the wine becomes old.
French Rhine Wines. On the whole, these wines are quite similar in
character to those produced on the German side of the Rhine. I do not
like to compare Alsatian and German wines, as I believe they are dis­
tinctive and should stand on their own merits. The moment we try to
establish a comparison, the wines of Alsace suffer. They are not as fine as
the great German wines, but as a whole they are far better in quality, and
much better value than much of the ordinary Laubenheimer or Trabener
which sells for about the same price. The comparisons given here are of
a general nature:
Sylvaner is light, flowery, and soft like a Reinhessen wine.
Riesling is excellent, dry, fruity, giving a wine closely approximating
the dry Rhine and Moselle growths most popular in America and which
experience proves hold a great appeal for us.
Gentil and Klevner fall into the same category as Riesling.
Gewuerz-Traminer—full flavored, with a pronounced Traminer bou­
quet and softness, and not so dry as the others. They can be compared to
the soft Reinhessen wines or Liebfraumilch, or even the Pfalz wines.
 66 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

ALSATIAN VINTAGES
1933 Like the German wines, very fine, if any are to be had.
1934
1937 Exceptionally good, full-bodied wines.
1943 Very good vintage.
1945 Exceptionally fine wines.
1947 A great vintage.
1949 An extraordinary vintage.
1950 Fair wines.
1951 Somewhat better than the 1950s. A good vintage.
1952 A very good vintage.
1953 Promises to be one of the great vintages of the Century.

WHEN TO DRINK ALSATIAN WINES

As they are delicate, light, flowery wines, they may be served with al­
most all foods and they are particularly attractive as luncheon wines.
They are all white wines and should be served well chilled. They are, of
course, ideal summer wines and are quite delightful in cups, punches, or
for Rhine wine and seltzer.

5. RHÔNE WINES

Traveling southward, the turbulent Rh6ne River cuts its swath to the
Mediterranean. Along its route there are three widely separated sections
which produce red, pink, and white wines of repute.
The principal grape varieties of the Cotes du Rhone are the Syrrah
(sometimes called Sirrac, Sirah, Petite Sirah or Serrine, which is also used
extensively in California), Grenache, and Vionnier—a white grape. How­
ever at Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the wine is the result of judicious blend­
ing of as many as ten grape varieties. Baron P. Le Roy Boiseaumarieé,
President of the Syndicate of Vineyard Owners of Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
stated in 1932 that the choice of grapes to produce a perfect Chateauneuf-
du-Pape, are:

1st group For warmth, Grenache and Cinsant 20 per cent

richness, and
roundness
2nd group For solidity, Tinto-Mourvedre and 40 "
keeping power, Syrrah
color, and the
right flavor
 THE WINES OF F R A N C E 67
3rd group For vinosity, Counoise and Picpoul 30 per cent
agreeableness,
freshness, and
bouquet
4th group For finesse, fire, Clairette and Bourbou- 10 "
and brilliance tenque
South of Lyons, near the ancient Roman city of Vienne and across the
river from Condrieu, lie the vineyards which produce Côte Rôtie (Roasted
Slope). The wines of this district were highly praised by Pliny the younger,
Plutarch, and Columella.
The wines of Côte Rôtie are very deep in color, have a rich headiness,
and roughness which it takes them some years to throw off. As they grow
older, they lose some of their color, throw a rather heavy deposit, and rid
themselves of their youthful harshness. Twelve to fifteen years is the
youngest at which Côte Rôtie should be drunk.
Some white wine is produced at Condrieu, but only that of storied
Château Grillet has any reputation. The property is very small and it is
rare to find its wines in commerce. If you are fortunate enough to come
across any Château Grillet, you will find it to be pale in color, medium
bodied but with a wealth of character and a magnificent bouquet. It will
be expensive.
Some thirty miles south, on the left bank of the Rhône near Tain, the
renowned hill of Hermitage rises up majestically. A crusader, returning
from the Holy Land, decided to settle on these heights and live the con­
templative life of a hermit. From the East he had brought with him a
vine-cutting which he planted. According to legend, it was the first Syr-
rah * brought to the Rhône. He tended his vine patiently and eventually
it bore fruit from which he made a fine wine which soon had people
beating a track to his retreat.
The vineyards of Hermitage are less than 400 acres in extent and pro­
duce both red and white wines. The red wines, which Prof. Saintsbury
called the "manliest of wines," are big, full-bodied, strong, deep-colored,
and have marvelous keeping qualities. The white wines are full, medium
dry, and have a deep bouquet. When old they have an amber gold color
and lovely mellowness.
For seventy years, 1305-1377, the Papacy was occupied by Frenchmen,
who, fearful of the perils of Rome, maintained the Holy See at Avignon.
This period is sometimes called the "Babylonian Captivity" of the Popes.
The first of the Avignon Popes was Clement V, who, as a native of Bor-
* This vine is thought to have come from Shiraz, Persia. It was brought by the
Knight Sir Gaspard de Sterimberg on his return from the Albigensian Crusade in 1124
when he became a hermit at the Chapel of St. Christophe at Hermitage.
68 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

deaux and Archbishop of Bordeaux, was familiar with viticulture, and

left us the legacy of that grand Graves Claret—Château Pape Clement,
which he is said to have owned.
When Clement V decided to settle the Holy See at Avignon, he built a
fortress-palace just outside the town. This edifice with its lands was dubbed
the new château of the Pope, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As wine is impor­
tant to a man from Bordeaux, Clement had vines planted, which still
produce today the wine that is known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
These are the best known wines of the Côtes du Rhône, although they
are not quite equal in quality to Côte Rôtie or Hermitage. They do not
have as much color or body, but they do have finesse and they are pleas­
ant to drink.
Across the river from Avignon is the town of Tavel, which gives its
name to the most delightful of all the pink (Vin Rosé) wines. Tavel com­
bines the dryness of a red wine with the fresh lightness of a white. It is a
delightful rose color, clean, fresh, dry, and usually has a lovely, fruity
bouquet and flavor. Tavel is best when young, about five years old. It
should be served chilled, like a white wine.
Côtes du Rhône wines are bottled in the same type of bottle used in
Burgundy. They are more like Burgundy in character than any other
wines. For these reasons many people have been confused, and on many
a wine card Châteauneuf-du-Pape is erroneously listed as a Burgundy.

PLACE ON THE MENU OF BORDEAUX, BURGUNDY, AND RHÔNE WINES

The place on the menu of any wine is a matter of personal taste and
opinion. Fortunately, most wines lend themselves to many foods, and
personal preference is the final deciding factor.
Speaking of Clarets in general, I would say that they go well with al­
most all foods except those we get from the sea. Experience has shown
that a perfectly dry wine, one completely lacking in sugar, will taste bet­
ter with foods that are not sweet. Of course, you can drink a Claret with
fish and it will do you no physical harm, but you will enjoy the wine
much more if it accompanies a meat dish. This is especially true if the
Claret is a fine old château bottling.
The white, crisp, dry Graves, on the other hand, is more catholic in its
tastes and may be served with all foods. It shines its brightest in the com­
pany of fish, and does nobly with fowl and white meats.
Sauternes, the perennial favorite of our American table, is a wine that
a vast number of people enjoy with all manner of food, so here again
personal taste is the deciding factor. As the wine is sweet and has a rich
perfume it does not seem to me appealing with dry-tasting foods, though
I find it agreeable with a dessert, particularly honey dew melon.
 THE W I N E S OF F R A N C E 69
WHEN TO SERVE BURGUNDY

Red Burgundies, being perfectly dry, are like Clarets in being some­
what unsatisfactory with fish. As they have much more body, however,
they are pleasant with fuller-bodied and richer (though not sweet) foods.
Game or ripe cheese shows them off to the best advantage. Having greater
fullness of body, they are headier wines to drink than Clarets, and there­
fore are more appealing in the winter than in the summer.
White wines are at home with all foods, but a good crisp Chablis or a
fresh Pouilly with freshly opened oysters is food for the gods. In ordering
wine, it is a good rule to match the dish that will show it off best, and it
is my experience that fish accentuates the qualities of white Burgundies.

WHEN TO SERVE RHONE WINES

The red wines of the Cotes du Rhônes, being full-bodied and quite
similar to Burgundy in character, may be served with the same type of
food: roasts, game, or cheese.
The white wines are at home with most foods, but are best with fish,
white meats, or fowl.
A cold bottle of Tavel is a delightful luncheon wine with most dishes
and it will be found to be a happy choice on a summer evening when
yhe weather indicates a wine that is refreshing.

6. O T H E R WINES OF FRANCE
THE LOIRE VALLEY

The chateau country of the tourist folder—issued by the Commission

National du Tourisme—is not, as you might suppose, the Bordeaux wine
region, but that section of which Dumas wrote in his enchanting and
exciting novels. Almost every farm boasts a majestic, centuries-old cha­
teau in a state of more or less repair. However, this is not a travelogue
and viniculturally the region is more interesting than important to us
because of two districts—Touraine and Anjou. Much delightful wine is
produced here but it does not improve by journeying to our land.
While both red and white wines are produced, I have seen no red in
this market for six years, and will consider only the white.
The principal grape is the Chemin Blanc or Pineau de la Loire,
although the Semillon and Sauvignon are also to be found, from which
are made the still, petillant, and sparkling white wines of Vouvray in
Touraine, and Saumur and Anjou in Anjou. Any reader of the Three
Musketeers will remember that Porthos and D'Artagnan put away some
very substantial quantities of Anjou wines.
70 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The wines are usually petillant, that is, crackling or creamy, and have
a rich lusciousness and perfume not unlike a Sauternes.
The sparkling wines have been made so by the approved Champagne
method. These are popular wines in France and if you go there, don't
fail to have either Vouvray or Anjou. You will be enchanted by the
wine. Only a small amount is sold in this country.

ROUSSILLON

In the Department of Pyrénées-Orientales are grown many of the same

grape varieties which we have grown successfully in California. They
include the Grenache, Mataro, Carignane and Picpoul.

BÉARNE

Also in the Pyrénées, in the Basque country, and a former part of the
Royaume de Navarre are the famous vineyards of Jurançon which pro­
duce a rich, mellow wine of breed and character from the Mausenc grape.

JURA

This region near Switzerland was famous in the past for its wines, but
today only the wines of Château Chalons retain any of this fame. These
are legendary, and while we may not see any in America for a while,
they are interesting in a special way. The Savagnin grapes are vintaged
as late as possible, sometimes in December, and fermentation takes place
in vats which have been cut out of the rock. Because of the late vintage,
fermentation is rather slow. The wines are then racked into very old casks
which have held many previous vintages, and they remain in wood seven
to eight years—the normal length of time for white wine being two and
a half to three years—before they are ready for bottling.
During this period a new yeast, or ferment—the mycoderma vini—visits
the wine, and flowers out to form a film on the surface of the wine in the
cask and perform its miraculous work. To the best of my knowledge,
this is the only wine, except for Sherry, in which this flowering phenom­
enon occurs. As a result of this, Château Chalons develops an alcoholic
content, usually about 15 per cent, which gives extraordinary keeping
qualities. It is said to live seventy years and more, and to have an austere
dryness coupled with an intense vinosity, such as one encounters in a
very old, dry Sherry.
 6

The Wines of Italy

T H E LENGTH OF the Via Latina was once dotted with statues of Bacchus
which were destroyed as pagan idols with the march of Christianity. The
cult of Dionysus, during the Golden Age of Greece, taught man the
contemplation of his own divinity, and wine was an important part of
the cult's ritual. All Hellas honored the vine and spread the cult to
Rome and Asia Minor. Plato records that Socrates drank unbelievable
quantities of wine but he was never drunk.
It is unquestionable that we owe to the Romans the spread of the
vinification of the grape; however, we are inclined to wonder at Martial
who speaks of "immortale Falernum" with a reverence that bears on
idolatry, when we consider that this wine was generally diluted. It is
also difficult to believe the ancient historians when they speak of the
merits of 150 to 200 year old wine or to understand how wine could have
been preserved so long and still be good.
The Romans were good agriculturists and good vintners but they must
have been limited to naturally fermented wines. These, however, were of
great strength, concentrated to the consistency of jelly, and served only
after dilution with water; spiced and flavored with such substances as
aloes, myrrh, resin, pitch, sea water, marble dust, perfumes, spices, and
herbs.
The Romans had capable wine makers, familiar with the use of cork
and glass. From the Greeks they took the method of lining their
amphorae and dolias with pitch or resin, for these earthenware contain­
ers were porous. Apparently they also used oak barrels, but these were
never in such general use as the earthenware vessels.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Church took up the work of
cultivating the vine, and the barons, under the sway of the Church, co­
operated, for "mighty was the thirst of the Templar."
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, which brought the Renais­
sance not only of the arts but of the spirit, it became fashionable to live
well, even if one had to live dangerously. The literature of the Renais­
sance is full of references to wines and vines. The banquets of the Medicis
71
72 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

and the Barberinis were supreme exhibitions of esthetic magnificence,

with wines served in golden goblets and toasts sung in immortal rhymes.
Of Italy's beauty, poetry, sky, and climate the world's literature is full.
The vine grows everywhere, profusely, almost wantonly, as though flaunt­
ing the bounty of nature through the fertility of her soil.
From birth the Italian absorbs with no conscious effort the love of the
vine. Wine is the common drink, inexpensive, natural, and sound. Be­
cause no germs harmful to man can live in wine, it is a safer drink than
water which is often polluted with typhoid, and as a result the per capita
consumption is high, 34 gallons, as compared with little more than half
a gallon in the United States. The quantity seems prodigious, and yet
drunkenness is practically unknown and is considered shameful when it
occurs. According to D'Annunzio, wine should be permitted to intelligent
men and prohibited to the stupid.
Because the vine grows so luxuriantly and bears so abundantly through­
out Italy, it is often said that the Italian vintner is more concerned with
quantity than with quality. This is not altogether true. Of course, most
of the wine made year after year by the vintners of the world is just plain,
wholesome wine. If it is the product of the fermentation of sound, ripe
grapes, it will be an honest wine, a drink within the reach of the masses.
The great wine, in any country, is the exception. It is never cheap and
there are never great quantities of it. Does Italy produce great wines?
The answer is yes: Barolo, Asti, Chianti, Marsala, Corvo, Orvieto, Capri,
Soave, Moscato di Salento, and others. In Italy, however, there is no pre­
arranged classification of crvs as there is in France.
The chief assurance of the quality of the wine is the reputation of the
vintner, of course, but the product should be judged by its intrinsic
value as well. If the wine is brilliant, of clean bouquet, free from ex­
traneous odors of mold or artificial flavoring, if it is pleasant to the taste
and there is no taint of sourness, then you have a good wine.
Italy has often been called "The Vineyard of the World." Where
nature is so bountiful, man is prone to leave things in the lap of the
gods. Vines were permitted to luxuriate over fertile plains, to climb at
will over fence and tree, and grow in festoons. Pruning was carelessly
done, and many varieties were grown without selection as to suitability,
in all parts of the country. Then, too, the wine was made, in many cases,
without much care, with the result that wines of the same name varied
widely in character. As the wines were largely consumed at home during
the vintage year, there was no real incentive to improve them.
All this is in strong contrast with the conditions in other countries,
 THE WINES OF ITALY 73

Wine Regions

of Italy
DESIGNED BY H. J.GROSSMAN
EXECUTEDBYC.WMASSAGUER
74 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

where nature has been less lavish, and man has had to substitute infinite
patience and hard labor for ideal soil conditions.
Conditions in Italy, however, are rapidly changing. As far back as
1906 the Italian Government passed strict laws governing the manufac­
ture and sale of wines and spirits. In 1924 these laws were made more
stringent, and in 1927 the Vintners' Guild was organized. Since its insti­
tution, no country has made greater progress with the wine-growing
industry than Italy.
By law, every vintner must meet the requirements of membership be­
fore he is permitted to manufacture or sell. Here as elsewhere some dis­
honest vintners have taken refuge in the Guild, but as the organization
tightens its control of areas, of wine types, minimum standards of quality,
crop and vintage control, and disease control, they will slowly be driven
out of the industry.
For the protection of the American buyer, the Vintners' Guild has
adopted a seal which is applied under its supervision on every bottle ex­
ported to the United States, and is the guarantee that the wine contained
therein has met the minimum standards of the Italian regulations.

GEOGRAPHY

The map of Italy shows the most casual reader that it lies in the same
latitude as Canada and New England. Naples, generally thought of as a
semi-tropical city, is in the same latitude as New York.
The entire Italian peninsula is covered with mountains. In the west
and north lie the majestic, snow-capped Alps, toward the east the
Venetian Alps—the picturesque needles of the Dolomites. Winters are
long and bitter, but the valleys are fertile and the natives frugal and
hard-working; so in spite of the handicaps of weather, snow, ice, erosion,
and avalanche, the vine thrives, and some of the finest vines are grown
on forbidding ledges, carefully terraced and tended.
The peninsula is split by the Apennine chain from the Po to the very
tip of Calabria. While the Apennines are not as forbidding as the Alps,
they are rocky and bleak, and submit only to the constant struggle of
industrious peasants whose forebears have fought the elements for 2,000
years.
The northern part of Italy is cold; the eternal snows and glaciers cool
the sirocco from the south. The south is semi-tropical with a climate much
like that of Florida. Sicily is the island of eternal sunshine. The vine
grows profusely in all of Italy, yet so varied are the climatic conditions,
the soil, the methods of cultivation, and the varieties of vines used, that
Italy can satisfy the nicest requirement of any connoisseur.
 THE W I N E S OF ITALY 75

GRAPE VARIETIES

From the River Po down to the Vesuvius territory, with its hot, sandy,
volcanic soil, Italy runs the entire gamut of varieties of grapes. There are
so many types of vines that it is next to impossible to make a complete
estimate.
T o add to the general confusion, the same grape variety is often grown
in several districts, and in each case gives its name to the wine. In other
cases, the wine takes its name from the town or village around which the
grapes were grown. It is possible, for instance, to get two Vernaccias, one
from Verona in the northern part of Venetia, the other grown in Sicily.
Now it stands to reason that grapes grown in the mountainous region of
the north where the soil is watered by glacier-fed rivers lacking in min­
eral salts, will have a flat taste compared to wine produced from the same
grape but grown in volcanic soil containing a great many minerals. And
yet they both have the same name.
The principal vines and the regions in which they are cultivated are:

PRINCIPAL GRAPE VARIETIES OF ITALY

Vine Where Grown Characteristics

Aleatico Tuscany, Piedmont, Produces a sweet and aro-
Nero Emilia, Marche, La- matic wine. Seldom fer-
tium and Apulia mented alone; usually with
(red wines) Trebbiano and Sangiovese,
while in Piedmont it is mixed
with Bracchetto.
Barbera Piedmont The most common vine in
(red wines) Piedmont. Prefers clay soils,
good drainage, and well-ex­
posed hillsides.
Bracchetto Piedmont, near Acqui Produces a pleasant light
and Alessandria wine of delicate flavor and
(red wines) brilliant red color.
Cortese Piedmont and Liguria Gives fine, light, dry wine
Bianco (white wines) with a delicate aroma. Grows
best in porous clay.
Grignolino Piedmont Said to be identical with
(red wines) Kadarka of Hungary.
Malvasia Piedmont, Tuscany, Used for rich liquorous wines
Bianco Marche, Abruzzi and and table grapes. A small
Sicily amount used in Tuscany for
(white dessert wines) Chianti.
 76 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Vine Where Grown Characteristics

Moscato- Bianco (Subdivided into three varieties)
1. Moscato- Piedmont Grows in poor soils, sandy,
Semplice di (white dessert wines) high altitudes, sunny slopes.
Canelli Used for sparkling wines be­
cause it has property of sec­
ondary fermentation.
2. Moscato- Sicily (really on the Originally brought to Sicily
Zibibbo Island of Pantelleria) in the Middle Ages by Arabs
(white dessert wines) from the town of Zibib, Ara­
bia. This vine is also found
in the Malaga district of
Spain. Produces an individ­
ual rich wine, also fine
raisins.
3. Moscato- Sicily and Calabria Wines with an aroma of
Fior d'Aran- (white dessert wines) orange blossoms.Fior d'Aran-
cio cio means flower of orange.
Nebbiolo Piedmont, Lombardy The most aristocratic vine of
(red wines, both still the north. Difficult of culti-
and sparkling) vation, it is slow-growing,
ripens late, suffers from damp
seasons and grows best on
high elevations, on slopes
well-exposed to the south.
Passeretta Piedmont, Apulia and Came originally from Smyr-
Sicily na. Used to add flavor to
(white dessert wines) Moscato. Passeretta means
shrivelled or withered.
Pinot-Nero Piedmont, Lombardy The Burgundian Pinot Noir,
(red wines) it needs dry poor soils and
high elevations to produce
its best.
Pinot-Bianco Piedmont, Lombardy The Burgundian Chardon-
and Sicily net, grown by specialists in
(white wines) the Pinerolo, Piedmontese
and at Casteldaccia, Sicily.
Riesling-Italiano Austrian Venetia, Grows best in dry fertile
Triestino, also on soils, giving a light, dry white
hillsides surrounding wine with the typical Ries-
Lake Como ling character,
(white wines)
 THE WINES OF ITALY 77
Vine Where Grown Characteristics
Sangiovese Tuscany, Romagna, The genius or base of Chianti
and Abruzzi of which it forms 70 per cent,
(red wines) the other 30 per cent being
made up of Trebbiano, Ca-
naiolo Nero, and Malvasia.
Trebbiano Piedmont, Romagna One of the easiest grapes to
and Tuscany grow, as it prospers in almost
(white wines) any exposure in clay soils.
Vernaccia Lombardy, Tuscany, Formerly grown in all parts
Venetia, Sicily, and of Italy, today principally in
Sardinia Sardinia and Sicily where it
(white wines) produces a highly alcoholic
• white wine.

PIEDMONT

Piedmont, the section of Italy which produces the best-known wines,

is the most austere region in the country. The wines are hardy, mascu­
line, travel well, and improve with age. From the glaciers of the Alpine
banks the land descends in a series of charming valleys and fertile plains
to the River Po, from which it again rises gradually to the hills of
Monferrato where the vine is cultivated with religious fervor. Piedmont
is entirely surrounded by hills, forming a cup at the bottom of which it
gets very hot. This is where the famous wines, Barbera and Asti Spu-
mante, are grown.
The region is ruled by Torino, the home of Vermouth, and the center
of industry. It is the richest market for wines in the region. The Pied-
montese are tenacious, industrious, and faithful to their land. Their
vineyards are neat and symmetrical.
Barolo is a little village, crowning a hill of tufa which undoubtedly is
an extinct volcano. On this hill the Nebbiolo grapes grow best, and they
give the finest and most justly celebrated red wine Italy has. In good
years, Barolo can be classed as one of the kings of wine.
Opera Pia Barolo stands for the "good works of Barolo." A family
named Falletti, the Marchesi of Barolo, were vineyard owners who did
much to popularize the wines of Barolo. The last Marchesa, a charitable
woman, devoted both time and money to the poor, and her activities were
known as OPB (Opera Pia Barolo) when they were passed on to the hands
of a committee at the time of her death in 1864. T h e company which
owns and operates the vineyards in Barolo today is a direct successor to
this committee.
Barolo in a good year is a big, full-bodied wine, with a ruby-red color
 78 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

which takes on a brownish shade as it ages. It is generous yet austere,

rich in alcohol but always a soft, velvety wine with an unmistakable
violet bouquet. It should be on all well-balanced wine lists.
The hills surrounding the town of Barolo are dotted with picturesque
villages. The Nebbiolo grape is also grown here but because of differences
of soil, the flavor is not as fine as that of the Barolo, and the wine pro­
duced is called Barbaresco.
It is interesting to note that in Julius Caesar's Commentaries there is
a reference to these wines which he greatly appreciated and wanted to
introduce to Rome. The particular wine he referred to came from the
little village of Morra (Murra). "From Murra," he wrote, "we brought
the best wine to our city of Rome."
Other red wines of the Piedmont region are Gattinara, made from the
Nebbiolo grape grown near Vercelli, a wine with a dry, pleasant flavor
and a slightly bitter undertone; and Grignolino, made from the grape of
the same name. This is a light, rather rough wine.
Barbera is the half-brother of Barolo; dry, rough, and coarse, a wine
that will pucker your lips, but if you are a native, you will like it.
Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Freisa are red wines which can be dry as well as
sweet—when sweet they are generally creaming or "crackling" (slightly
sparkling). The Freisa is so named for its raspberry bouquet. These wines
are often made sparkling, and are sold as sparkling red wine.
From the Cortese Bianco is produced Cortese, a light-bodied, straw-
colored wine with a greenish cast. It has a delicate, pleasant, and fresh
aroma.
Asti, the center of the Muscat grape-growing district and the home of
the famous Asti Spumante, is a sleepy little village with a great historical
background. It was here that Barbarossa was defeated. The hills of Asti
are now honey-combed with cellars excavated for the purpose of storing
the fermented juice of the Moscato, which is sold throughout the world
as Asti Spumante. Bismarck showed such predilection for this wine that
he exclaimed: "I want one good bottle for each of my officers. It will
serve to keep their heavy heads awake."
Asti Spumante is the standard Italian sparkling wine, produced by the
accepted Champagne method. It has a pleasant, decidedly sweet Muscat
flavor which gives the wine a fresh fruitiness.

LOMBARDY

The Swiss Alps frame with breathtaking beauty the lake region of
Lombardy, and the surrounding hills have a corrugated appearance as
row upon row of carefully tended vineyards extend as far as the eye can
see. The River Adda splits the valley of Valtellina, and Milano lies to the
 THE WINES OF I T A L Y 79
south, wearing the filigree crown of the Duomo (Milan's famous Cathe­
dral).
The best wines of Lombardy come from the Sondrio region, formerly
Swiss. They were known as Veltlines wines and today are called Valtel-
lina. Both red and white wines are made. Sassella, the finest Valtellina
wine, has a bright ruby color, a delicate fruity bouquet, and fine body.
Inferno is a lighter bodied red wine, which has a nutty flavor. When
labeled simply Valtellina, it is a light-bodied, straw-colored, fresh-tasting
wine with a fine aroma.
VENETIA

The morning sun rising above the Adriatic gilds the guglie of the
Dolomites in the north, long before it touches the golden cupolas of San
Marco. The land drops precipitously from rugged mountain to dismal
swamp. In the intervening space runs the River Adige. Here is the
Palazzo Scagliere where Can Grande toasted his guests with Vernaccia.
Here, too, is Lake Garda on whose slopes grows the Valpolicella, the
wine into which Hilclebrandt hoped his nose would forever be dipped.
Valpolicella is a good wine, ruby in color, of delicate bouquet, softness,
and a slightly bitter tang.
Bardolino is a harsher red wine, produced near Verona.
Soave is most appropriately named, being really suave, a light, dry
white wine with a pleasant, subtle bouquet and soft velvety texture,
while Prosecco is a light, pleasant, sparkling wine, made at Conegliano.

EMILIA

W e now come down to the richest and most fertile region of the Po
Valley. On the hills around Bologna, home of the sausage, the subsoil is
chalky like that of the Champagne region of France. Along the valley of
the Trebbia is grown the fine Trebbiano grape, which is greatly in de­
mand for making sparkling wine. However, it is curious to note that the
unfermented must obtained from these grapes is nearly all exported to
northern countries for the making of sparkling wines. The reason for
this is that the perennial floods of the Po make it difficult to preserve dry
cellars and the wines cannot be stored. However, a delightful sparkling
red wine, Lambrusco enjoys a merited reputation.
Here, too, is the tiny Republic of San Marino, famous for its Sangio-
vese wine. This is a dry, robust, well-rounded ruby red wine, somewhat
harsh and peppery.
TUSCANY

T o the poets, this region is Arcady—the home of Dante, Boccaccio, the

Borgias, St. Francis of Assisi, St. Catherine of Siena. It bears the marks
80 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

of the orgies and extravaganzas of its sinners and the pious virtues of its
saints.
T o most people it is the home of Italian wines, for the mention of
Chianti immediately brings forth the picture of the typical straw-covered
flask with the red, white, and green stripes. Of all containers for wine, it
is the most picturesque and the most unsatisfactory: delicate, difficult to
pack, to fill, and to cork.
The district of Chianti is rather well-defined. Only here is Chianti
Classico produced. Five Communes lie in it: Greve, Castelnuovo, Berar-
denga, Castellina, and Radda. T o insure their product, the producers in
these Communes have founded an association which controls their out­
put, labels and numbers each flask with a seal in black and gold with a
cockerel. A careful record of each seal is kept by the association.
Here the vine grows profusely arid produces enormous quantities of
fruit. As you go farther south, the appearance of the vineyards is very
different from the orderly, well-tended ones of the north. Where nature
is lavish, the vines are left more and more to their own devices. They
are allowed to grow wild, their only support being from weeping willows
and poplars which are set up as props, the vines being festooned from
one tree to another.
There are exceptions to this manner of doing things, of course, the
principal one being the vast vineyard of the Barone Ricasoli, the largest
grower in Tuscany, whose Brolio Chianti has world distribution. T o the
present Baron's father must go the credit for having brought Piedmontese
viticultural methods into Tuscany. The Brolio vineyards are today an
example of scientific cultivation, the cellars are perfection, and the work
of improvement in vinification has set an example which other vineyard
owners have followed.
Chianti is made from several different grape varieties. The informing
grape is the Sangiovese, which makes up about 70 per cent of the marc,
the other 30 per cent being Trebbiano, Canaiolo Nero, and Malvasia. In
the finer vineyards, some Cabernet and Malbec grapes will be included.
Vinification is much the same as in other red wine, and the wine fer­
ments out at between 101/2 and 13 per cent of alcohol, depending on
vintage conditions.
Chianti contains a substantial amount of bitartrates, which makes for
a rough, harsh, but full-bodied wine. All red wines must acquire bottle
ripeness, during which time they throw off their youthful roughness.
Chianti, which is an unusually rough and harsh wine, is not given this
opportunity because, when the straw-covered fiasco is used, the shipper
must pack and ship promptly. If he does not, he runs the risk of the
straw deteriorating, with consequent loss through bottle breakage.
 THE WINES OF ITALY 8l
Old Chianti is obtainable, if you have the curiosity to look for it, and
a splendid, soft, rounded, and mellow wine it is—but don't expect to
come upon it in the usual, straw-bound, fat-bellied flask. It will be bottled
in the regular Claret bottle.
Originally the Chianti flask was made for home consumption, not for
export. It was not corked, and the wine was protected against the air by
a film of olive oil.
For all its roughness, Chianti is an ideal wine to drink with rich, well-
seasoned, oily foods, because its tartness is just the thing to help digest
this rich food.
Siena, the center of the wine region, sends us another wine on the style
of Chianti from Montepulciano, which is often called Vin Nobile. T w o
white Tuscan wines of some note also come from this district, the Vernac-
cia di San Gimignano, a light, dry, pleasant wine with a slight bitter
after-taste, and Vin Santo, a generous, sweet dessert Muscat wine.

MARCHE AND UMBRIA

The region of Marche is very hilly, exposed to the north wind. Not
many great wines are grown in this region, but two demand attention:
a fine white, light wine—the Verdicchio di Jesi; and a full red wine from
around Piceno—the Piceno Rosso.
Marche's principal city is Ravenna, where Martial complained of the
dishonesty of a wine seller who indeed "hath given me pure wine." In
those days it was customary to improve the natural flavor of wine with
resin and other extraneous flavorings.
Umbria, where the beautiful cities of Assisi, Perugia, and Orvieto are
located, is a land of pastoral beauty, of temperate climate, rolling hills,
and well-drained soil, particularly suitable to the growing of fine, white
wines.
The white wines of Orvieto are of two varieties: the secco (dry) and the
abboccato (sweet). Both are light straw colored, have a fruity freshness,
and are shipped in a straw covered fiasco similar to the Chianti flask.

LATIUM

Latium was the home of Horace, and his poetry tells of Tusculum,
now called Frascati; of the wines that he grew and the trees that he
loved so well.
The proud Romans left the shores of the Tiber for the pleasures of
the countryside, and on the hills adjacent to Rome they built their villas.
Hence the wines produced on the estates of these nobles are called "Vini
dei Castelli Romani."
 82 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Chiefly white wines are made, as the conditions of soil and climate are
not particularly favorable for red wines.
It was in this region that the German Bishop Fugger sent his valet
ahead to taste the wines of various inns. Where it was good he was to
write est in chalk upon the door. If unusually good, he was to write
est est. When he reached Montefiascone the enthusiastic valet had written
est! est!! est!!! The Bishop, finding the valet's judgment good, proceeded
to drink such vast quantities of the precious liquid that he paid for his
appreciation with his life.
Est Est Est of Montefiascone, in the Lake Bolsena region, is a golden-
hued Moscatello, with a pleasant and elegant bouquet. Both dry and
sweet varieties are produced, but the sweet is more popular in America,
and is the more pleasant wine of the two.
Another delightful wine of the region is Frascati, a fresh fruity wine
which is superb on the spot, but which unfortunately does not travel
well. It loses some of its grace but is still a fine wine.
From Castelli Romani come two other wines: Marino, a fairly generous
wine; and Colli Albani, a light golden wine produced around Albano,
Ariccia, and Castelgandolfo—the summer palace of the Popes.

CAMPANIA

This region, dominated by Vesuvius, is one of the most beautiful spots

on earth. "See Naples and die," people say of it. The dust of the volcano
spreads imperceptibly over the land and fertilizes, it. Hot springs and
fissures evidence the volcanic nature of the soil. The climate is ideal, and
vegetation is luxuriant—three crops a year are rotated on farms. The vine
is intensely cultivated, for the area is limited and the demand world-wide.
Falernum, prized by the Romans, has fallen from popularity, and in its
stead rules Lacryma Christi, which is bought up by northern vintners
who subject it to a secondary fermentation in the bottles. This sparkling
wine is always rather sweet.
The still Lacryma Christi, made in the shadow of Vesuvius, is a golden
wine, not too dry, with a softness, delicacy, and somewhat aromatic bou­
quet which it gets from the hot volcanic soil. Some red Lacryma Christi
is also made.
Today you can get both red and white Falerno, but this modern wine
does not evoke the poetic rhapsodies of its ancient namesake, Falernum,
of which Juvenil IX tells that Sufeja was able to drink some 35 gallons
at a sitting without getting drunk, simply by tickling his throat with a
peacock's feather. Gragnano, a dark red, rich, fruity wine, comes closer
to the storied ancient.
In this magical setting, surrounded by blue waters, lies Capri. Little
 THE WINES OF ITALY 83

original Capri wine is available, and most of it is used by the islanders

themselves. It is a light, fresh, delightful wine, usually white, but occa­
sionally red. Prince Patrizi exports small quantities, and those who can
purchase real Capri are lucky indeed. More often than not, what we get
is wine from the neighboring island of Ischia.
On the island there are innumerable dispensaries where the product
is consumed on the premises. The most famous dispenser is a Swede
named Moll, patronized by the late Count Zeppelin. Because he sells his
wine on credit, he has been for many years a favorite of impecunious
college boys, who sing:
O Moll, O Moll, O Moll, O Moll, O Moll, O Moll,
Beve quanto si vuol Drink as much as you can
Pagare quando si puol! Pay whenever you canl

APULIA

One of the most interesting wine-growing regions of Italy is Apulia,

which produces heavy wines, abundant in esters, high in alcoholic con­
tent, and in great demand for blending. The liquorous, warm, nectar­
like Moscato di Salento is typical of the region.
In the neighborhood of Foggia, the fine white wines of San Severo and
Torre Giulia are grown. This wine is as attractive as it is generous; full-
flavored yet dry, with a delightful aroma.

CALABRIA

Here, in a wild country of bare high mountains and fertile valleys, a

country of contrasts, of chilly winds and tropical shores, the vine is culti­
vated extensively. It produces only good local wines of rather light alco­
holic content. Much vin ordinaire comes from this section.
Savuto and C i r ódi Calabria are red table wines, while Greco di Gerace
is a dessert wine, made from the Moscato-Fior d'Arancio, which gives the
wine a bouquet reminiscent of orange blossoms.

SICILY

Homer speaks of Sicily as the land where "spontaneous wine from

weighty clusters flow." The Sicilians, said Plato, "build as if they were
always to live, and sup as if they never were to sup again."
The soil of Sicily is incomparable for growing the grape, and so varied
that every variety of vine finds suitable space.
The first to appreciate the enchanting beauty of the island were the
English, who practically monopolized the output of Marsala, Lord Nel­
son's favorite wine.
84 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The volcanic regions of the occasionally active Etna produce a wine of

great strength and aggressive bouquet which is much in demand for
blending with weaker wines in northern countries.
The western part of the island is planted with the French Pinot and
the Arabian Zibibbo vine, the latter producing wines that are liquorous
and aromatic. The Pinot is an importation of Duke Salaparuta, whose
desire to improve viticulture in Sicily and to raise the standard of living
of the natives has been crowned with success at Casteldaccia. The wine
of Salapurata is called Corvo, one of the great wines of Italy. The vine­
yards are kept with the same care and severity as the French employ in
pruning and growing for quality instead of quantity.
Corvo is a fine, dry, rather austere wine of much character, with the
hot fieriness of Sicily racing through it. Although both red and white
are produced, the white has a greater appeal to us. These are the only
light wines of note shipped from Sicily, which is better known for her
sweet dessert wines.
Four of these wines which are shipped to America, and can be ob­
tained from most Italian wine importers are: Moscato di Noto, from
Syracuse; Moscato Zucco, from near Palermo; Moscato di Pantelleria, a
small island between Sicily and Tunis, where the Zibibbo Muscat grape
produces an excellent, dark-hued, full, rich and mellow wine; and the
Malvasia di Lipari which has a typical Malmsey richness and flavor.
Sicily to most of us means Marsala, an excellent wine some Italians
will tell you is Italy's "cream Sherry," a mistake to make as it labels the
wine as an imitation, which it is not.
Marsala is a fortified wine obtained from the Insolia and Calaretto
grapes. It is sweet, dark walnut brown in color, and has a rather acid
undertone, due to the volcanic nature of the soil in which the grapes
grow. In this respect, it comes closer to Madeira than it does to Sherry,
but it does not resemble either. No, Marsala is an individual wine with
its own character. It is a blended wine, and each house maintains a
Solera system on the order of the Jerez houses. While it is a good sound
wine which pleases many people, I would not call it one of Italy's greater
contributions to vinicultural enjoyment.
Marsala also finds many uses in the kitchen, where it is indispensable
for the making of zabaglione, scaloppine alia Marsala, and numerous
sauces and desserts.

SARDINIA

The cork, the olive, and the vine grow well in the island of Sardinia.
The wines are mostly heady, liquorous, and strong. "Drink this wine,"
said an unknown poet, "thou needest no garlands." Like nearby Sicily,
 THE WINES OF ITALY 85
Sardinia is better known for dessert wines than for table wines, but her
well-known Vernaccia del Campidano is an exception. It is an amber-
colored wine, dry and tonic, with a delicate almond-blossom bouquet and
a pleasingly bitter tang.
Moscato del Tempio and Malvasia of Sardinia are two white dessert
wines with the characteristic flavor of the grape varieties from which
they are made, while the Giro di Sardegna is a red dessert wine on the
order of Port.

OF ITALIAN WINES IN GENERAL

The wines of Italy run the gamut of the wines of the world. The
method of naming most wines after the grape makes the selecting of
wines by type somewhat difficult. As a general rule, a northern wine will
be better than a southern wine.
Many fine Italian wines do not travel well and never reach our shores,
so I have discussed those wines which are obtainable in this country.
Italian wines have a rough, downright earthiness. They are strong,
masculine wines, with a positiveness that is disarming.
The lighter beverage wines may be used in the same manner as any
light white or red wine, though the rougher, sturdier wines will be found
to give greatest enjoyment when served with rich, well-seasoned foods.
The dessert wines may be enjoyed after dinner, or in the afternoon or
evening with a biscuit.
 7

The Wines of Germany

SAILING DOWN THE RHINE, between its vine-clad hills of Nibelung

legend, the orderly beauty makes a profound impression. But it is rare
for one to recall that this is due to centuries of unremitting toil. Con­
sidering the perfect weather conditions that are required to produce a
good wine even in such temperate regions as Bordeaux or Burgundy, one
must marvel at the courage and tenacity of the vineyard owners of the
Rhine and Moselle valleys, the most northerly wine region in Europe.
No vintner has ever had a more discouraging or difficult task than
these Rhenish farmers, but they have triumphed magnificently over the
tremendous odds nature has stacked against them. Poor soil, lack of
sunshine, a short summer, precipitous hillsides to be terraced, to which
the vines cling precariously, and natural diseases of the vine—these handi­
caps merely spur these undaunted men on to greater efforts. Their cour­

Wine

Regions
DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN. EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

86 of germany
 THE WINES OF GERMANY 87
age deserves our admiration, and their success our gratitude, for their
patience and their toil have given us some of the world's great wines.
Their success may be estimated by the fabulous prices occasionally
fetched by some of their wines. A cask of a great Trockenbeeren Auslese
may bring as much as $50 to $75 a bottle at auction, while it is still in
cask. Of course, this sort of wine is possible only on rare occasions and
then only at the large estates, where never more than one quarter cask,
or some 400 bottles, of this quality can be made. Naturally, little of this
wine reaches the channels of commerce. It is generally purchased by
private connoisseurs.
In Germany, as in France, the traditions of wine are entwined with
the very roots of its history. As far back as the time of Charlemagne
(800 A . D . ) the vineyards of the Rhine, probably planted by the Romans
of Caesar's time, enjoyed great fame.
During the eighteenth century, most of the Rhine wine shipped to
England was labeled "Hochheimer." The English, ever atrocious lin­
guists, found difficulty in pronouncing this word and promptly shortened
it to "Hock." Today, in all English-speaking countries, the term Hock,
or Hocks, means Rhine wine. This, however, does not include the wines
of the Moselle or the Steinweins.
Here, too, the monastic orders of the church did much to develop
viticulture. Johannisberg (Hill of St. John) takes its name from the
Chapel of St. John, erected in 853 A.D. by the Benedictine monks of St.
Alban's at Mainz. On this storied hill is the castle (schloss) whose vine­
yards produce what are recognized to be the finest Rhine wines.

GEOGRAPHY

German viticulture is found in three main geographical districts: the

Rhine Valley, and its tributaries, the Nahe and the Main; the Moselle
Valley and its tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer; and Lower Franconia,
a small district on the Main around Würzburg, with its famous Stein-
mantel.
The Rhine Valley, like all Gaul, is divided into three parts: the
Rheingau, which embraces the right bank of the river, from above
Coblenz to and including Hochheim on the Main; the Rheinhesse, which
includes the land on the left bank of the river from Worms to Bingen,
and that lying between the Nahe and the Rhine; and finally, the Rhein-
pfalz, or Palatinate, which forms a triangle between the Rhine, the
Haardt Mountains, and the French border.
Rising in the Vosges Mountains, the Moselle River wanders through
Lorraine, becomes part of the Franco-German border, continues north­
ward to form the border between Luxemburg and Germany, enters Ger-
88 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

many proper where it is joined by the Saar, and a little further along by
the Ruwer, from which point it winds and twists through its sinuous
and picturesque course until it reaches the Rhine at Coblenz.
Viticulturally, the valley is divided into three parts: the Upper
Moselle, from Wasserbillig (in Luxemburg) to Trier with its famous
Cathedral of Treves; the Middle Moselle, from Treves to Traben-
Trarbach, twin cities on opposite sides of the river; and the Lower
Moselle, from there to Coblenz.
The Middle Moselle section is the most important from the stand­
point of the number of famous vineyards; the Saar has a few excellent
wines; while the Lower Moselle produces none of importance.
Although the wines produced along the Main, between Homburg and
Schweinfurt, are bottled in the standard bocksbeutel and sold as Stein-
wein, true Steinwein comes only from the Steinmantel which forms the
south and southwest slopes of the hills around Würzburg (of Würz­
burger beer fame) in Unterfranken (Lower Franconia).

SOIL

As in other fine wine regions, the soil is most forbidding, being suited
to no other crop. It is extremely rocky. The vineyards are planted along
the steep, terraced slopes of the hills. The terraces are very narrow and
must be constantly maintained, a task which must be carried on by hand.
The slopes are so steep that carts cannot be used. In the Moselle Valley
there is a predominance of slate to which is attributed the "slatey" dry­
ness of the wines.

GRAPE VARIETIES

The informing grape, the plant noble of the Rhine and Moselle vine­
yards, is the Riesling. It is a small grape which does not produce abun­
dantly and ripens very late but one which, when nature smiles, gives a
glorious wine, full of character, perfume and body.
The Östreicher or Sylvaner is grown in the Rheinhesse, the Rhein­
pfalz, and Lower Franconia.
The Traminer is grown in Lower Franconia, where it is known as the
Clevener. This grape variety is planted less and less and in time will
disappear altogether. Each of the two varieties has a distinctive character
and perfume, easily identified once one is familiar with them.
The Burgunder is the Pinot Noir of Burgundy and Champagne fame,
which is used to produce the few red Hocks of the Rheingau, Ahr Valley,
and Rheinhesse. It is not her red wines, however, which on the whole
are rather thin and commonplace, on which Germany's vinicultural fame
rests, but the magnificence of her white wines.
 THE WINES OF G E R M A N Y 89

(Left) Vintage scene at the Enkircher Steffensberg Kreuzpfad vineyard on the Moselle.
(Right) Cellar scene. New wine maturing in cask cellar. Note hoist for raising and
lowering casks from cellar to cellar. (Photos—Adolph Huesgen)

VINTAGE

For the most part the vintage is similar to that of the other white wine
regions. When the summer has been sunny, and the rain has been con­
siderate enough to fall at the right time, and there is a late fall, the
grapes are allowed to remain on the vine until pourriture noble, here
called edelfaule, accomplishes its work.
Under these conditions, the vineyards are gone over many times to
select only bunches which are in perfect condition. These wines are
called, Auslese (Aus—selected, lese—picking) or Spdtlese (Spat—late, lese—
picking). When it is possible, wine is made from individually selected,
over-ripe (edelfaule) grapes. Such a wine is rare and always costly. It is
called Beerenauslese or Trockenbeeren Auslese (selected over-ripe grapes).
The pickers carry a small basket as well as the regular basket. As they
gather the perfectly ripe bunches, they cull out the individual grapes
which are covered with the mold of edelfaule and are almost transparent
(edelreif). These are put into the small basket, and when the pickers
have gathered enough to make a cask or two of wine, they are pressed,
apart from the other grapes. Such a wine will be very rich, and as sweet
as a great Sauternes.
The principal difference in the vintage process occurs at bottling
time. In the first place, the wines are bottled very young, from twelve to
eighteen months after the vintage, except the very sweet Beerenauslese,
which are kept in cask three, four, and even six years, depending on the
sweetness and character of the wine. Secondly, unlike the French wine
regions where the product of a famous vineyard is equalized by blending
the wine of many casks before bottling, the wine from each cask is bot­
tled separately and the price is determined by the quality of each cask,
called a fass in the Rhine district, and fuder in the Moselle.
90 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

LABELING
While German wine laws are, in many respects, the best in the world,
they are not perfect. The law is very strict about the sort of wine and the
labeling of it when it purports to come from a famed vineyard, but it is
more lax when bottling a regional or trade-marked brand, and permits
blending of wines of other vintages and other districts, and even adding
sugar to the must in poor years, if the grapes are deficient in this respect
and do not produce sufficient alcohol for keeping.
There are four types of labels which correspond to the Bordeaux sys­
tem, with the difference that the word "estate" takes the place of the
word "chateau." The various types are:
1. Estate bottling
2. Estate wine bottled by the shipper
3. District or Township (instead of Parish)
4. Trade-mark brand of the shipper
The law states that the label must give clear information which will
enable the purchaser to know what he is buying. The following informa­
tion must be given on all wines:
1. The vintage date
2. The township or district where the grapes were grown (or at least
50 per cent of the wine was produced)
3. The name of the shipper
The following information can be used on a label only when the wine
comes from a famous vineyard and is a perfectly natural wine:
Naturrein, Naturwein or Ungezuckerter Wein. These terms all mean
natural wine which has not been sugared. They are wines whose alco­
holic strength varies from 8 to 12 per cent.
Auslese (Selected picking). Wine made from fully ripened, selected
bunches of grapes. Wine will be medium dry to medium sweet.
Spatlese (Late picked). Grapes picked late in the fall when the sugar
concentration is higher. These wines can be made only in good years,
and may be sweeter than an Auslese wine, but generally are not.
Beerenauslese (Selected grapes). As previously explained, each individ­
ual over-ripe grape is selected. Wines so labeled are generally very rich.
Trockenbeeren Auslese (Selected semi-dried or shriveled grapes).
Pressed from grapes that have been shriveled by the late autumn sun.
Only a small quantity of such wine is possible even in extraordinary
years. It is very expensive and rare. It is one of the best and sweetest
natural white wines.
Feine, Feinste, Hochfeine (Fine or finest). This term is often found
preceding one of the three designations mentioned above.
 THE WINES OF GERMANY 91
Wachstum, Gewächs, or Kreszenz (meaning "growth of"). One of these
terms, followed by the name of a person or corporation, denotes owner­
ship of the vineyard whence the wine originates.
Original Abfüllung, Original Abzug. Original bottling by the owner
of the vineyard.
Kellerabfüllung, Kellerabzug. Cellar bottling.
Schlossabzug. Castle bottling. (All these bottling terms can be grouped
together to mean the same as "château bottling" in Bordeaux.) Very often
these terms are abbreviated, for example: Orig. Abf. (or Orig. Abz.)
Eigengewächs. Own growth.
Fass Nr. or Fuder Nr. As the wines are bottled off from each individual
cask, the cask number often appears on the label. Often, too, these words
will be preceded by the word bestes meaning "best cask."
Kabinett Wein (Cabinet Wine or Special Reserve.) Very few estates
make a practice of selecting special wines to label in this manner. The
most notable example is Schloss Johannisberg, where the complication
of labeling is carried to the nth degree. In a particular good year both
Cabinet and non-Cabinet wines are bottled, and each quality is further
designated by a different colored wax capsule running the gamut of
colors: pink, red, blue, green, orange, lilac, silver, white—and gold for
Trockenbeeren Auslese.
Korkbrand (Branded cork). Wines that are "estate bottled" have the
owner's seal and the vineyard name branded on the cork. Of course,
much good wine is shipped without branded corks.
With the foregoing information, it should be easy to translate the
meaning even of the most complicated German wine label.
For example: 1934er Rüdesheimer Hinterhaus Riesling Auslese Wachs­
tum und Orig. Abf. Graf von Francken-Sierstorpf.
This means: Wine of the 1934 vintage, from the Hinterhaus vineyard,
in the township of Rüdesheim, made from specially selected Riesling
grapes. The wine was an original, or estate bottling by the owner of the
vineyard, the Count von Franken-Sierstorpf.

OUTSTANDING VINEYARDS

Because of the uniform wine-labeling laws, and the widespread prac­

tice of estate bottling, many great vineyards in the various districts have
become known. There is no system of classed growths as there is in Bor­
deaux, and no hierarchy of growths such as is accepted in Burgundy.
Each township has one or more vineyards of reputation. The system of
vineyard ownership is similar to that in Burgundy where several, some­
times many, individuals own parcels of a given vineyard.
92 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

In listing German wines, the name of the township within which the
vineyard lies usually precedes the vineyard name.

RHEINGAU WINES

Rüdesheimer Schlossberg Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen

Rüdesheimer Hinterhaus Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg
Rüdesheimer Burgweg Steinberger
Rüdesheimer Klosterkiesel Hallgartner Schönhell
Rüdesheimer Häuserweg Schloss Reinhardshausen
Schloss Johannisberg Marcobrunn
Johannisberger Hölle Rauenthaler Rothenberg
Johannisberger Erntebringer Hochheimer Domdechaney
Schloss Vollrads Hochheimer Kirchenstück

Of these, the best-known in America are Rüdesheimer Schlossberg,

Rüdesheimer Häuserweg, Schloss Vollrads (which for many generations
has been the property of the Counts Matuschka-Greiffenklau), Schloss
Reinhardshausen (property of Prince Friederich Heinrich of Prussia),
Marcobrunn (or Spring of St. Marcus), Steinberger (property of the
Prussian State—always labeled in white with the black Prussian eagle for
its emblem, and bearing the abbreviated description of ownership:
Preuss. Domäne, which stands for "Staatliche preussiche Domänenwein-
bauverwaltung." If this mouthful of ownership appeared on the label
there would be no room for the important word Steinberg); and finally,
the first of all German wines, Schloss Johannisberg.
Charlemagne is supposed to have selected the site for this vineyard,
though it is more than likely that wines from the Johannisberg hill
vineyards already existed in his time. During the French Revolution, the
vineyard and castle on the crest of the hill came into the possession of
William, Prince of Orange, who lost it to Napoleon by the simple process
of confiscation, after the battle of Jena. The prize was presented by
Napoleon to Marshal Kellermann, Duke of Valmy, whose name, appro­
priately enough, means cellarman.
After the battle of Waterloo, the vineyard again changed hands, pass­
ing to the Austrian Emperor Francis who, in gratitude for "services ren­
dered," presented the castle and vineyards in perpetuity to his great
Chancellor Prince von Metternich-Winneburg, whose descendants still
own this most famous of all German vineyards.
The wines of all these vineyards, and particularly Schloss Johannis­
berg, combine, in a good year, every attribute of greatness. They have
bouquet, body, flavor, character, and breed. Generally speaking, the
Rheingau wines have an austere hardness in which lies their character.
 THE WINES OF GERMANY 93

RHEINHESSE WINES

The wines of the Rheinhesse are generally softer and richer than those
of the Rheingau, which is one reason why they have always been very
popular in America. Around Oppenheim, Nierstein and Nackenheim
there are a few vineyards of note:

Binger Scharlachberg Niersteiner Domthal

Oppenheimer Sacktrager Niersteiner Rehbach
Oppenheimer Schlossberg Niersteiner Hipping
Oppenheimer Goldberg Niersteiner Heiligenbaum
Oppenheimer Herrenberg Nackenheimer Rothenberg

Wines from the above-mentioned vineyards have been imported since

Repeal and they have all been very lovely.
At the southern border of the Rheinhesse is the rather dull, smoky,
gray town of Worms. Not dull or gray are the legends about Worms, for
it is the locale of the ancient Nibelung story of Siegfried's marriage to
Brunhild and his death by treachery.
Within the city limits of Worms stands the Liebfrauenkirche (Church
of Our Beloved Lady), surrounded by its vineyards, the Liebfrauen Stifts-
wein and the Kirchenstuck. It is from this source that Liebfraumilch
originated. As the German authorities ruled years ago that Liebfraumilch
was a generic name which could be applied to any better wine from the
Rheinhesse, you must consider the reputation of the shipper and im­
porter for guarantees of quality, as the Liebfraumilchs may be very good
or quite ordinary. They are generally rather soft, and on the sweet side,
and are generally blends of Hessian wines.
When wine from the actual Liebfrauenkirche vineyards is bottled and
shipped, the word Liebfraumilch will not appear on the label. Instead,
they will use one of the subdivisions mentioned above.

RHEINPFALZ WINES

A good deal of wine is made in the Palatinate, but most of this Pfalz
wine is merely used as tischwein or table wine, and only the fine wines
are distinguished. The vineyards are protected by the Haardt Mountains,
and due to their exposure get more sunshine and enjoy the benefits of
very hot summers. As a result the grapes develop more fully and are
sweeter than in the other districts. For this reason the Pfalz produces
more Spätlese and Trockenbeeren vintages, and as a rule their wines are
soft and luscious. A fine sweet Trockenbeeren Pfalz wine is magnificent
as a dessert wine, though it is too rich to drink in any quantity.
The most famous vineyards of the district are:
94 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Forster Jesuitengarten Deidesheimer Kieselberg

Forster Kirchenstück Ruppertsberger Hoheburg
Deidesheimer Leinhòhle

MOSELLE WINES

Moselle wines have a charming lightness, fragrance and dryness that is

most pleasing. But their most appealing quality is their spritz, or tingling
sharpness, as though they were trying to be sparkling wines, and almost
succeeding. This quality disappears after a few years, as the buoyancy
of youth does from man, and for this reason Moselles are best when
young, because they are livelier and racier.
The soil of the Moselle Valley is, if possible, more forbidding than in
any other region, and vintaging is proportionately more difficult. The
vineyard owners must cut away the leaves so that every possible ray of
sunshine will benefit the grapes. Each year they carry up the steep slopes
pieces of slate which have been washed down the hillsides by the spring
freshets, and as they go through the vineyard they laboriously arrange
and rearrange the bits of slate so that they will reflect the sun's rays on
bunches of grapes. It is to this back-breaking toil and infinite patience
that we owe an exquisite glass of wine!
These are the lightest fine wines made, for only in rare years does the
natural wine exceed 10 per cent of alcohol, as a rule having between
8 and 9 per cent.
There are two ways of recognizing the difference between Rhine and
Moselle wines, without opening the tallflute-shapedbottle or tasting the
wine. One is the color of the bottle, for Rhine wines always come in
brown-colored bottles, and the Moselle bottles are always dark green.
The other is by the township names. The towns along the Rhine as a
rule end in "heim," while those of the Moselle do not. There are, how-
ever, exceptions to this rule.
It is simple to detect the marked differences in character between the
wines of the Rheingau, Rheinhesse, and Pfalz, but I've never found any-
one who can make a similar claim about the wines of the Moselle, Saar,
and Ruwer. They are all equally pleasant and intriguing, so it isn't a
matter of great importance.
The most famous vineyard in the Moselle is the Doktor at Bernkastel.
In the fourteenth century, according to legend, a bishop of Bernkastel
lay ill of a fever. The doctors of the region were baffled and muttered
in their beards without doing anything for the patient. But an old vet-
eran of the wars, whom the good Bishop had helped, hearing of his
friend's plight, recalled that he had cured himself of a similar ailment.
He filled a small keg with his finest Bernkastel wine and went to the
 THE WINES OF GERMANY 95

Bishop's house where, ignoring protests, he slipped into the sickroom.

"Drink this," he told the Bishop, "and it will cure you."
The Bishop regarded the keg dubiously, but in his condition he had
nothing to lose, and it was as pleasant a way to die as any. So he obeyed.
The old soldier poured him a brimming beaker, and a second, and the
Bishop fell into a sound sleep. The next day he awoke to find the fever
had gone. "This wine," he shouted, "this splendid doctor cured me!"
And from that day, this particular growth has been known as the Doktor
vineyard, and not because it was the property of Dr. H. Thanisch. Half
of the vineyard is still owned by his children, and the other half by
Deinhard and Co. of Coblenz. The labels of their "estate bottled" wines
bear the name of "Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch" (widow of Dr. H. Thanisch).
The Bernkasteler Doktor wines are generally full-bodied and richer
than most Moselles. Because of the fame of the vineyard, the demand
always exceeds the supply and, like Chateau Yquem, fetches considerably
higher prices than its neighbors. While it is the outstanding wine, it is
not twice as fine as its nearest rival, which is often the difference in price,
as people have a tendency to buy name rather than quality.
Other well-known, excellent wines are: Trittenheimer Laurentiusberg,
Dhroner Hofberg, Piesporter Goldtröpfschen, Piesporter Lay, Graacher
Himmelreich, Josefshofer (the property of Reichsgraf von Kesselstaat),
Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Schlossberg, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr,
Erdener Treppchen, Enkircher Steffensberg, and Brauneberger Juffer in
the Middle Moselle.
The outstanding village on the Saar is Wiltingen with its famous
Wiltinger Scharzhofberg and Wiltinger Scharzberg vineyards which, in
a good season, produce the best wine of the Moselle, and Wiltinger
Schlangengraben (the 1935 Best Cask Feine Auslese is magnificent).
Of the Ruwer wines, the splendid 1920 Grunhauser-Maximin-Grun-
hauser Herrenberg, orig. abf. excell. Freiherr von Schubert, stands out
in my memory as one of the finest I ever tasted.
Moselblumchen (little flower of the Moselle) like Liebfraumilch, is
not a vineyard but a generic type wine. It is usually a pleasant little
wine, but when sugared it has a heavy aftertaste which is always present
in wines fermented from sugared musts.

STEINWEIN IN BOCKSBEUTEL

Finally we come to Würzburg and its squat flasklike bocksbeutel. These

wines, made from Sylvaner and Riesling grapes, have the characteristics
of these grapes and possess more body, hardness, and keeping qualities
than the Rhine or Moselle wines. They also take longer to develop. The
96 G R O S S M A N 'S GUIDE

outstanding vineyards are the Würzburger Stein and Würzburger Leiste,

which are parceled out among a number of proprietors, including two
public institutions, the Juliusspital and Bürgerspital, and also the Ba­
varian Staatliche Kellerei (the organization controlling the Bavarian
State-owned vineyards).

GERMAN VINTAGES

The wide variation in vintage conditions causes considerable differ­

ence in delicate wines, but the practice of bottling the wine from each
cask separately sometimes makes the estimates of a given vintage un­
reliable. As old vintages are difficult to buy, there is no purpose in dis­
cussing the legendary 1921 which was considered the greatest ever.

1937 A very great vintage.

1942 Fine vintage.
1943 A great vintage.
1945 Also a great year.
1946 The '47 and '49 were exceptionally fine yintages and the '46,
1947
1948 '48 and '50 were excellent, but rank just below.
1949
1950
1951 '51 fair, '52 fairly good and '53 promises to be very great.
1952
1953

TO SUM UP

It is not true that a wine must bear a famous name to be good. Much
excellent, clean, pleasant wine comes to us simply labeled with the town­
ship name, such as Bernkastler, Piesporter, Brauneberger, Rüdesheimer,
Hochheimer, Niersteiner, Moselblümchen, or Liebfraumilch. Inevitably,
in describing the wines of a region, one talks more about the great names
than about the smaller. But what I have said about the fine wines of a
locality, applies generally, in a lesser degree, to the other wines of the
same place.
All German wines are at their best when the fresh bloom of youth is
on them. This is particularly true of the smaller wines. In fact, I recom­
mend that they be drunk under ten years old, except for the very fine
Auslese and Trockenbeeren Auslese wines. Since the war there have been
a series of good to great vintages, any one of them from 1945 through
 THE WINES OF GERMANY 97

1953 will be enjoyable. These are not, however, wines to keep for years.
I have had several opportunities to verify this on examining old cellars.
Old Champagnes were usually in good condition, while the German
wines of the same vintages were undrinkable, having been so maderisé
(woody in taste) they reminded me of Vermouth.

THE PLACE OF GERMAN WINES ON THE MENU

White wines, light wines, fresh wines, go well with almost all foods,
particularly those which, like Aphrodite, come forth from the sea to
grace our table. They are dry and sharp, without being acid, and when
they are sweet they are not cloying. A well-chilled bottle of Moselle wine
is the summer luncheon or dinner wine par excellence.
Another pleasant way to drink Rhine wines is with seltzer, mixing
them half and half. Having a pleasing, flowery perfume, they lend them­
selves admirably to bowles, cups, and punches.

SPARKLING WINE

Sparkling Hock and sparkling Moselle are sold in Germany in vast

quantities, something like 18,000,000 bottles each year, under the name
of Sekt or Schaumwein, the large sale being possible because the wine is
very cheap. Not much is shipped, however, because, while it must pay
the same duties and taxes as Champagne, its quality is not comparable.
Consequently it has never made much headway outside of Germany.
Generally sweetish, it has a heavy aftertaste.
 8

The Wines of Hungary

WHEN THE GREAT LOVERS of wine gather around in that Valhalla where
all good men go who appreciate the finer things, the heated arguments
will never be concluded as to which is the greatest natural white wine.
There will be backers for Yquem, for Montrachet, for Schloss Johannis­
berg and for Tokay Aszu, the sweetest of all natural wines. When we
think of Hungary and wine, we think first of Tokay.

Happy is the country which grows them

Happy is the queen who sends them
And happier still am I who drink them

wrote Pope Benedict XIV to the Empress Maria Theresa in grateful

acknowledgement of a gift of Tokay wines.

TOKAY

For generations only kings and princes could obtain the all too few
bottles of Tokay produced each year, and so it came to be known as a
Royal wine. The finest vineyards in the heart of the district belonged to
the Royal household, and the Emperor Franz Joseph made the princely
gesture of sending Queen Victoria a gift of Tokay every year on her
birthday, a dozen bottles for each year of her age. Year by year, as the
perennial queen grew older, the present augmented in size, until on her
81 st birthday, in 1900, the Emperor sent 972 bottles of the rarest of all
wines, Tokay Aszu, which Professor Saintsbury called "No more a wine
but a prince of liqueurs."
The virtues of Tokay are many, as may be gathered from the statement
of one Robert Druitt, as quoted by P. Morton Shand. Delivering "A
Treatise on Intemperance" before the Ladies Sanitary Association, he
remarked: "Nor need I mince matters and refrain from saying that when
childless families despair, when January is wedded to May, and when
old men wish to be young, then Tokay is in request."
Tokay wine derives its name from the small village of Tokaj in the
Hegyalja country (northeastern Hungary) at the foot of the Carpathian
98
 THE WINES OF HUNGARY 99
Mountains. The area which can produce Tokay was delimited in 1908
by a very stringent law, and a closed district was established into which
no wine made outside might be brought.
Like a cupped hand, the delimited Tokay district is a small plateau,
less than half the size of New York City, around which rise the Car­
pathians. Though this district is 1500 feet above sea level, the protecting
mountains produce a special condition which makes possible extremes
of weather highly beneficial to the growing of the grape. These climatic
changes vary from cool dry weather in the spring to very hot summer
weather. The rains of early fall give way to a fine, dry "Old Wives Sum­
mer" or Indian summer, important for the hanging grapes, as it is during
this season that they shrivel and become trockenbeeren. The bitterly
cold winters are accompanied by howling winds. The soil is rich in iron
and has some lime. It is of volcanic origin and the dominant rock of
the region is the volcanic trachyte,
Tokay is the product of one informing vine, Io Furmint. The grapes
are quite thick-skinned, but as they ripen the skin becomes thinner and
more transparent. The sun penetrates it, evaporating most of the water
in the juice, with a consequent concentration of the natural sugar. Some­
times the grapes that ripen earliest are so full of juice that the skin
bursts and some of the juice runs out; oddly enough, a new skin forms
over the crack and the grapes do not rot, as normally happens. The
grapes are allowed to hang on the vine until they are in the state of
pourriture noble. They are called trockenbeeren.

Wine
Regions
of Hungary
DESIGNED BY HJ.GROSSMAN-EXECUTED BY С.W MASSAGUER
100 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The combination of the Furmint, the soil, climatic conditions, and the
special manner in which it is treated are unique to the Hungarian
Tokaj-Hegyalja. For this reason, no other wine-producing region has
been able to imitate in any degree Tokay, although wines made from
so-called Tokay grapes * are produced in other countries. These wines
do not resemble in taste or characteristics their famed namesake.
The grapes are gathered in wooden vessels known as puttonyos, hold­
ing about 25 quarts. The universal measure in the Hegyalja is the gyöncz
or gönz cask, which holds 136 litres (about 35 gallons). It is the number
of puttonyos of over-ripe Furmint grapes per gyöncz cask that determines
the quality and richness of the Tokay.
At harvest time, from late October through November, the pickers
carry two puttonyos, one of regular size, the other smaller. In the latter
are placed the trockenbeeren grapes which are culled from each bunch
picked, and in the larger go the ripe but not shriveled berries.

MAKING THE WINES

There are three main types of Tokay—Eszencia, Aszu, and Szamorodni.

Others, such as Aztali, Máslás, and Forditás, are made from the marc
or lees of Aszu- pressings, but they are rarely shipped out of the country.
Szamorodni. This is made much the same as any other white wine, in
the lower sections of the plateau where the grapes do not shrivel and in
those years when weather conditions have not been favorable for the
trockenbeeren. Szamorodni is an excellent dry wine, with a "fresh bread-
crust" flavor. It is, however, a fiery, full-blown wine, with an alcoholic
strength of some 14 per cent. In years when there are not enough trocken­
beeren to make a commercial quantity of Aszu, they are pressed with the
other grapes and a sweet Szamorodni results, like the dry in character. It
does not, of course, begin to approach the richness of the Aszu.
Aszu. When one considers that the average yield of all the vines in
the Tokaj-Hegyalja is only some 100,000 hectolitres, or about 2,650,000
gallons, of which Aszu wine represents less than one per cent, it is appar­
ent that this wine is extremely rare. Little wonder it is spoken of as a
Royal or Princely wine.
In making Aszu or Ausbruch (very rich Tokay) the trockenbeeren are
first kneaded into a pulp in a trough. Then the proper proportion of
must, expressed from ordinarily ripened grapes, is poured over it and
stirred up at intervals. It is left to stand from twelve to forty-eight hours,
depending on climatic conditions. When fermentation begins, the whole
mixture is placed in canvas bags and thoroughly trodden out, the result-
* Tokay grapes are not the produce of Io Furmint but are really eating grapes said
to have originated in Algeria.
 101
THE WINES. OF HUNGARY
ing juice being put into casks. From this point on, the must is handled
like any other white wine.
It is the number of puttonyos of over-ripe Furmint that determines
the quality of the wine. A label reading "1 puttony" contains about 10
per cent; "3 puttonyos" about 30 per cent; and "5 puttonyos" about 50
per cent trockenbeeren, the richest and finest quality. Aszu wines are not
made every year. They can be made only in years when the vintage is
moderately successful.
P. Morton Shand says: "Druitt considered that Tokay has aflavorof
green tea, but an amalgam of the scents of meadow-sweet acacia-blossom,
and the lime-tree in flower, rendered perceptible to the palate . . . is pos­
sibly somewhere nearer the mark. No wine possesses such a tremendous
force and volume of flavor."
It is the natural sweetness and natural alcoholic richness (it is never
fortified) that raises Aszu Tokay wine so high in the estimation of wine
lovers.

ESSENZ—ESZENCIA—ESSENCE
In exceptionally successful and plentiful years, the trockenbeeren, be­
fore they are kneaded, are put in a cask which has a bung with a goose-
quill in the bottom. The juice which drips out through the quill, with­
out any pressure other than the weight of the trockenbeeren is allowed
to ferment apart and is called Essence. This is a fabulous wine that takes
years to develop and will live for centuries. There are Eszencias, notably
in Poland, over 200 years old. At the Polish Pavilion of the New York
World's Fair, I saw on display bottles of Tokaji-Eszencia of vintages go­
ing back to the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries.
Eszencias are kept in open bottles and never have more than seven or
eight per cent of alcohol. Very little is ever made. It is rare and almost
unprocurable, as what little is produced is used mostly for improving
the Aszus of poorer years.

HOW AND WHEN TO SERVE TOKAY

Dry Szamorodni should be served well chilled. With its full-bodied
dryness, it makes an excellent aperitif or all around table wine.
Sweet Szamorodni may be served at room temperature or cooled. It
can be used as any sweet white wine, but is more properly a dessert wine.
Aszus have a ripe, luscious quality and should not be chilled. They
are dessert wines of the very first order. A small glass is often one of the
most tonic and wholesome restoratives one can take.
Tokay wines, as they come to us, are generally blends of various
vintages, but the wines are kept in cask some three or four years before
 102 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
bottling. Tokay wines take a long time to ripen and are rarely shipped
much under ten years. There are some vintage wines available. Those I
have seen on the market in this country include: 1895, 1904, 1906, 1910,
1915, 1924. The 1930 is the youngest I have seen. They are not cheap.
Their prices range from $2.50 on up for a 1/2 litre (17 oz.) long-necked
bottle, the standard size and shape used for generations.

OTHER HUNGARIAN TABLE WINES

Wine-making is an important part of Hungarian agriculture, as wine

is produced in fifty of her sixty-three Megye (counties). Most of this wine
is drunk locally, but Hungary also produces some very fine red and white
table wines, whose quality is known and appreciated wherever Magyars
have lived. The wine-producing regions are scattered. Aside from the
Tokaj-Hegyalja, in the northeastern corner, of which we have already
spoken, there is Eger nearby, whence comes the famous Egri Bikaver; in
the central western part of the country is Somly6; below that, on the
northern shores of Lake Balaton (the Plattensee) is Badacsony, center of
the vineland producing the best quality of white table wines; and finally,
on the southwestern border, is Villány-Pécs, where both white and red
table wines are produced.
Hungary contains rough hilly and mountainous country as well as
plains. The quality wines are not produced in the plains, but in the hilly
country where the top soil appears to be, in many cases, of volcanic
origin. Perhaps this explains the fiery character most of the white wines
display.

GRAPE VARIETIES

The Rizling (Riesling) is generally found in the fine vineyards, as

well as the Furmint. For white wines, the Szilvany (Sylvaner), Keknyelu,
Leanyka, Harslevelu (which means "like the leaves of the ash"), and
Muskotaly (Muscatel) are used; while the principal variety employed
for red wines is the Kadarka.

LABELING

The nomenclature employed is generic, both grape and place-names

being used separately and in combination. In one particular instance, a
fine, medium sweet wine is made, around Badacsony, which is called
Szurke-Barat or Auvergnac Gris (the French translation means "Wine of
the Gray Friar.")
The descriptive terms used on Hungarian labels mean the following:
Edes (A'-desh) Sweet
Szaraz (Shah'-rahsh) Dry
 THE WINES OF HUNGARY 103
Zold (Zuld) Green
Szemelt (Sem'-melt) Selected like Auslese
Bor (Bore) Wine (plural—Borok)
Pecsenyebor (Pake'-shenny-bore) Dessert wine
Féherbor (Fay'-ehr-bore) White wine
Vörösbor (Vo'-rosh-bore) Red wine

While the table wines are made in the same manner as in the wine
regions of France and Germany, a wide variety is obtained by the use
of different grape species and because of the different soil conditions
in the several districts. Only one characteristic is common to all Hun­
garian table wines, and that is a certain heady, fiery quality.
Typical Hungarian wine names, and descriptions of their taste, follow:
Rizling-Szemelt (Riesling Sem'-melt). A light dry wine with Riesling
character.
Csopaki Furmint (Cho'-pa-key Foor'-mint). A full-bodied dry wine re­
sembling Tokay, as it is produced from the Furmint grape. In Hungarian,
the letter "i" affixed to a name denotes "from." In this case it means
Furmint wine from the town of Csopak, which is on Lake Balaton.
Somloi Furmint (Shom'-loy-ee Foor'-mint). A fragrant dry wine, re­
sembling the Csopaki Furmint. Somly6 is also on Lake Balaton.
Badacsonyi Rizling (Bahd'-ah-chony Riesling). Usually a pale dry full-
bodied wine.
Badacsonyi Szurke-Barat (Bahd'-ah-chony Soor'-key Bah'-raht). From
the Badacsony district comes this lovely, medium-sweet wine, whose deli­
cate bouquet reminds one of new-mown hay.
Badacsonyi Auvergnac Gris (Bahd'-ah-chony Oh'-ver-niak Gree). This
is the French spelling for Szurke-Barat.
Debroi Harslevelu (Deh'-broy Harsh'-level-you). A medium sweet wine
with a pleasing perfume, produced in the Eger district from the Harslevelu
grape.
Leanyka Szaraz and Leanyka Edes (Lay'-on-kah Shah'-rahsh and
A'-desh). Dry and sweet Leanyka. These are light table wines with a
delicate flavor. The dry is quite dry, but the sweet is only moderately
sweet. A great deal of Leanyka comes from Eger.
Muskotaly (Moosh'-ko-tah-lee). One of the lightest and most highly
perfumed wines of Hungary. It has a pronounced Muscatflavor.Made in
various districts, it is always a pleasant wine, though not one of the finest.
Szilvanyi Zold (Sil'-vahn-ee Zuld). Literally this means "Green Syl-
vaner" which it derives from the hint of green in its pale color. It is on
the sweeter side of dryness, with a delicate bouquet and flavor.
Egri Bikaver (Egg'-ree Bee'-kah-verr). Because of its deep, very dark
 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

red color, it is called Bikaver (Bull's Blood). It has a splendid bouquet

and is a big, full-bodied dry wine with a character all its own.
From Villány-Pécs (Vill'-ah-nyee Peh'-ch) in the Komitat or County of
Pécs come some good red and white wines. The white wines are generally
shipped in long fluted Rhine wine bottles, while the red travel in the
standard Claret bottles of Bordeaux.
The white wines are served like Alsatian or German wines. In fact,
many people who find German wines expensive or hard to get have taken
up these wines enthusiastically, pleasantly surprised by their fine quality.
The red wines, served at room temperature, can be used, like any other
red wine, with almost all foods.

SPARKLING WINE

Hungary, like all wine-producing countries, has her sparkling wine.

Some of it is sold in America and can be found primarily in restaurants
or stores catering to a Magyar clientele. It is one of the better sparkling
wines, having a pleasant bouquet and a lot of body. Both the very dry
and medium dry are shipped. The very dry seems to be the better quality
for our taste.
 9

The Wines of Spain

CULTURE AND CIVILIZATION, like the sun, rise in the East. Thefirstrecords
of Iberia tell of intrepid Phoenician sailors and merchants establishing
trading posts. Before long the vine was planted, for nothing else would
grow on the hard, sandy, clay soil.
During the period of Rome's greatness, the peninsula did a thriving
business with the Romans, as is indicated by the wine jars of Spanish
make found among the ruins of Pompeii.
Even during the suzerainty of the Moors, the vineflourishedand pros­
pered under the patronage of the Alhambra Caliphs.
But the history of Sherry wine begins some four centuries back, when
an enterprising wine merchant decided to take some of his wine to Eng­
land, his vessels laden with casks branded:

VINO DE JEREZ
SECO
Arriving on the Thames, he discovered that the English not only could
neither read nor speak Spanish but that they refused to try. If they must
use foreign words, and they did not take kindly to the idea, at least they
would see that the words sounded as English as possible. The word Jerez
(Heh-rehz) they promptly Anglicized to Jerries, Sherries, and finally to
its present form, Sherry. Seco, after passing through several transmuta­
tions, became "Sack." * Sherry is, therefore, simply the English spelling
of the Spanish Jerez.
Jerez de la Frontera is the city around which the Sherry vineyards lie
and the Sherry trade revolves. The principal shippers have their bodegas
(warehouses) there, and the vast reserves of wine which make possible
Sherry as we know it, are kept in Jerez.
Jerez de la Frontera is in the province of Andalucia, the southernmost
part of Spain, and to understand the wine of the region, one must know
something about the Spaniard, particularly the Andaluz.
Spain is a confederation of the thirteen ancient petty kingdoms and
peoples who have always inhabited the Iberian Peninsula. It has never
* T h e word "Sack" as a term meaning Sherry is archaic. Its rightful use today is
limited to the registered trade mark "Dry Sack", property of the Sherry shippers,
Williams & Humbert.
105
1o6 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
been and perhaps will never be one people. Even today, the Catalan
from Barcelona speaks a different language from the Castillian of Ma­
drid; he has different customs and, though he carries a Spanish passport,
he will always, and with pride, call himself a Catalan—not a Spaniard.
Most Spaniards, then, are regionally rather than nationally minded.
In Andalucia there is brilliant sunshine and the people are gay; they
dress in flaming colors and worship objects of beauty, whether they be
women, gardens, Arabian stallions, or the magnificent Sherry wine. T h e
Andaluz is the Spaniard of romantic song and story.
Para los gustos, Dios hizo los colores ( T o please our tastes, God created
colors) say the Andalucians, a proverb which applies most aptly to the
wines of Jerez. For in Sherry, as in a rainbow, almost any shade of color
and taste may be found.
Pasquil's Palinodia (1619) contains one of the countless encomiums to
Sherry:
Give me Sacke, old Sacke, Boys!
T o make the muses merry
T h e life of mirth and the joy of the earth
Is a cup of good old Sherry.

T h e greatest and best salesman Sherry ever had was not, strictly speak­
ing, in the "trade", but he liked Sherry so much that he was always writ­
ing about it. H i s name was William Shakespeare.

Wine
Region
of Spain
DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN EXCUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER
 THE WINES OF SPAIN 107
Sherry and Sack crop up often in his plays, but most of all in Henry
IV, in the words of Falstaff. "A good Sherris-sack," said the immortal
rogue, "hath a two-fold operation in it It ascends me into the brain;
dries me there all the foolish and dull and crudy vapours which environ
it; makes it apprehensive, quick, forgetive, full of nimble, fiery, and
delectable shapes; which delivered o'er to the voice,—the tongue,—which
is the birth, becomes excellent wit."
And Samuel Pepys, most famous of all diarists, refers often to "Sack,"
indicating that he must have been very partial to it.

GEOGRAPHY

Andalucia, the most southern province of Spain, extends from the

Portuguese frontier on the west to the Mediterranean on the east.
The Sherry district lies between the Guadalquivir and the Guadalete
Rivers, with the Atlantic seaboard on the west, and a line paralleling the
coast a few miles north of Jerez. Nature has endowed this little piece of
land with qualities which are unique. The wine produced from it can­
not be duplicated in any part of the world, although a "Sherry" is made
wherever grapes are grown. In this region all types of Sherries are pro­
duced, from the very driest to the sweetest.

SOIL

Three predominating types of soil divide the region into three sec­
tions. Around and a little to the north of Jerez itself is found the alba-
riza—a soil composed primarily of chalk, magnesium, clay, and lime-
where the finest Sherries are produced.
South of Jerez is the barros (clay). This reddish clay contains a great
deal of iron. Both barros and albariza will produce from 2 1 / 2 to 3 butts
of wine per acre.
The arenas (sandy) soil is found toward the seashore and near the
river. The arenas produce as much as five butts to the acre, but as quan­
tity increases, quality decreases.
Jerez is the only place where there has been an increase of about 2 0
per cent in production since the grafting of the old vines upon American
roots, after the phylloxera attacked the vines.

GRAPE VARIETIES

The principal grape varieties are the Palomino (the best grape for
making Sherry wine); the Mantuo Castellano, and the Mantuo de Pila,
which are of secondary importance; and finally, the Pedro Ximenez,
which is used for making very sweet wines and for "blending Sherries,"
which are important to our distillers in blending young whiskies.
 108 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Jerez, S p a i n . ( L e f t ) S u n n i n g the freshly g a t h e r e d g r a p e s p r i o r to t r e a d i n g a n d p r e s s i n g .

( P h o t o — P e d r o D o m e c q ) . ( R i g h t ) B o o t s for treacling. N o t e e c c e n t r i c p a t t e r n o f nails t o
prevent pips from being crushed. (Photo—Williams & H u m b e r t )

VINTAGE

The vintage usually begins about the first week in September, when
the grapes are gathered and brought to the pressing house. They are
spread out on straw mats to dry in the sun for a few hours, to evaporate
the dew on the grapes and to absorb some of the natural water. Then
they are placed in the pressing trough or lagar. This rectangular wooden
trough holds about 60 baskets of grapes. A layer of grapes is spread on
the bottom of the lagar, and a few spadefuls of yeso is sprinkled over
them. Yeso is the powdered albariza soil in which the grapes grow. This
gives the wine an increased acidity and helps create a certain amount of
cream of tartar which aids the development of the wine. Another layer
of grapes, another sprinkling of yeso—this continues until the lagar is
half full.
Men wearing shoes with properly spaced nails protruding from the
bottom start treading the grapes. The work starts in the cool dark of
early morning, about three o'clock, and continues until nightfall, but it
is not a scene of grim labor. Instead there is an air of festivity over the
occasion. The work is done to the accompaniment of gay music and
singing, to the chanting of gypsy songs, and enlivened by glasses of
Sherry passed around to everyone—especially to the men treading the
grapes—to refresh their energies.
As the juice is expressed, it runs off into butts which hold about 165
gallons. After the grapes have been thoroughly trodden out, a great deal
of juice still remains in them, and this is extracted by an old-fashioned
mechanical press and added to the other grape juice or mosto (must).
Fermentation begins almost at once and continues in all its violence
 THE WINES OF SPAIN 109
until most of the sugar has been converted into alcohol. Then it simmers
down to a slower tempo for a few months after which time fermentation
is complete and the wine "falls bright." This means that the insolubles
have precipitated to form the lees, and the wine has clarified itself. It
will be racked off into fresh butts which are filled only to seven-eighths
of their capacity. The new wine is carefully examined and classified.
Sherry is the most unpredictable of all wines. When the vintner presses
his grapes, he hasn't the slightest idea of the type of Sherry wine which
will result. No man knows what causes this variation. Perhaps some day
another Pasteur wili come along and give us the answer.
For example, the pressing of one lagar may give 1 0 butts of wine.
When the wine falls bright and is classified, the vintner may find two or
three butts which are very pale and delicate; four or five butts will con­
tain wine which has developed a deeper color and less delicacy; and the
rest will be sound wines, but not so fine in quality.
A simple system of chalk marks has been evolved through the centuries
to identify these various qualities: the butts of the palest andfinestwines
will be marked with one stroke (/) (raya), the second quality will receive
two strokes (//) (dos rayas), and the last or poorest quality will be marked
(///) (tres rayas).
Yet, these ten butts of wine came from the same grapes and the same
pressing. It was when the juice fermented and became wine that the vari­
ous qualities developed.
When the wines are classified, they are lightly fortified with brandy
distilled from wines of the region. The finer wines are less strongly forti­
fied than the others—the one rayas getting about two gallons of brandy
per butt, while the two rayas receive four—and the alcoholic content is
brought up to about 15 to 16 per cent. The brandy used is distilled from
tres rayas wines.
The new wines are now transferred from the vineyard to the bodega
of the Sherry shipper in Jerez.

FLOWERING

When the new wine, still known as mosto, reaches the bodega, it is
placed out in the courtyard. The butts are open—that is, the bungs are
not driven home—and the wine is exposed to the air. In the ordinary
sense of wine-making, the grape juice has become wine, but it has not
become Sherry. For this to occur, a secondary fermentation must take
place, known as La Flor, or the "flowering."
The flowering is peculiar to Sherry. I know of no other region, except
in the Jura Mountains of France at Chateau Chalons, where the flower­
ing has occurred. This is the chief reason why vintners in no other wine
110 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

region of the world have succeeded in duplicating the unique character

of the wines of Jerez.
A thin film of yeast, known scientifically as mycoderma vini, develops
upon the surface of the new wine, causing a second fermentation which
converts the wine into Sherry. Before the flowering, the wine is quite
similar, though not identical, but by the time the flowering is completed,
strange changes take place in each butt, so that, when it is examined
some twelve to eighteen months later, some of the wine will be the light,
delicate Fino type, some will be medium in color and taste, some will be
golden rich and will be classed as Oloroso, and some of the butts may
have proven to be a failure, so that the wine can only be used for vinegar.

NEW WINES CLASSIFIED

The master of the bodega now re-examines the wines for further classi-
fication. He uses an instrument called the venencia, employed only in
Jerez—a tall, narrow, silver cup attached to the end of a long, springy,
whalebone handle. It is a tricky gadget, the use of which requires con-
siderable skill. The cup is dipped deep into the butt through the bung,
in order to get a sample of clear wine, then it is withdrawn and the wine
poured into a glass with one motion. This looks simple until the unini-
tiated tries it, when he will discover that he is more likely to pour the
wine down his sleeve than into the glass.
Aside from the dos rayas wines, which the shipper has set aside for
Olorosos, he has no idea how his rayas will turn out. The finer, paler
wines were originally classified as one raya. During this second classifica-
tion, there is a further division into three groups. The driest, palest, and
most delicate of the wine will be marked with a Y to represent a palm
tree, and will be called Palmas. These wines will become the Finos.
Those wines which are not quite so delicate, and have more body will
be marked with a slanting cross called Palo Cortado (cut stick). These
wines will become the Amorosos.
The richest and fullest bodied of these retain the original raya mark-
ing, and will become the golden Olorosos. At this point the Sherry ship-
per calls the wine vino de Añada (vintage wine) instead of mosto.
The wines are now transferred to the bodega proper, and are set aside
to mature. They are carefully watched and examined from time to time,
being kept from two to ten years or more, depending upon the style or
type of Sherry with which they are to be blended.

THE SOLERA SYSTEM

The heart and soul of the system by which Sherry is produced is the
Solera, which comes from the Spanish word suelo, meaning "soil" or
 111
THE WINES OF SPAIN
"basis." In the Solera system the wines are first placed in the criadera
(nursery reserve stocks) where they remain anywhere from three to four
years. The Solera is replenished from the criadera.
A number of butts of a definite type of wine of an exceptionally fine
vintage are laid down. A few years later an equal number of butts of the
same type of wine are placed immediately on top of the first tier, and a
few years later, still another tier of new wine of the same type is placed
above the second.
The Sherry shipper is now ready to draw wine from the Solera for
bottling. The amount of wine required is drawn off from the lowest, or
oldest tier. The butts in this tier are then refilled from the tier immedi­
ately above, and that in turn from the uppermost tier, containing the
youngest wine. When all the wine is drawn off from the butts in the
uppermost tier, new butts of fresh wine, taken from the Criadera reserves,

Flowline Chart of a Solera System

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

112 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

replace the empty casks. In this way, a constant process of blending goes
on year after year, and thus a definite standard of quality can be main­
tained for generations.
Consequently, there is no such thing as a Vintage Sherry. Sherry is
always a blended wine. Occasionally a Solera is dated, such as "Solera
1870." This indicates the year when the Solera was started, but it does
not mean that the wine in the bottle is of the 1870 vintage. When you
see a bottle labeled "Vintage of 1900" you are being misled. Vintage
Sherry is not sold commercially; it is too precious and is used, in minute
quantities, to give vinosity and character to the fine blends.
The Sherry shipper, indeed, can supply the finest shades of difference
in color and taste by judicious and intelligent blending. Basically, all
Sherries are dry. The various degrees of sweetness are the result of the
careful use of a special color wine (vino de color).
Vino de color is made by boiling the must before fermentation begins.
The result is a very dark, heavy, syrupy concentration of grape sugar. If,
in this process, the must is reduced to one-third of its original content it
is called sancocho; if down to one-fifth, arrop'e. To this are added some
eight or ten parts of regular Sherry wine of the same vintage, and the
whole is known as vino de color. The color wines are of great impor­
tance to the shipper, who maintains Soleras of them, blends them and
ages them for many years. As he uses small amounts in each blend of
Sherry, the quality must be on a par with the wine it is to color or
sweeten.
The final blending of the wine to be bottled will include the proper
proportion of color wine, and possibly a small amount of an old, austere,
vintage wine. It will also be fortified up to shipping strength.
It is interesting to note that, due to evaporation, the strength of the
wine increases slightly, so that wine which started out with 16 per cent
of alcohol, will have 18 per cent or even more after a few years. This
varies with the type of wine and with the shipper. Some shippers send
their pale dry wines out with an alcoholic content of 18 to 19 per cent,
while others fortify all of their wines up to201/2per cent.
The final step, before bottling or shipping the wine, is to fine it, in
order to insure clarity and brilliance. The best fining material for Sherry
is the whites of egg mixed with a small amount of wine.
Spain's best Sherry customers are England and the United States. Eng­
land has always bought most of her Sherry in the cask, while we have
bought almost all of our drinking Sherry in bottles. Now, since the war
and the difficulty of shipping, together with higher freight and insurance
rates, the practice of botding in this country has increased greatly. Some
importers, indeed, are bottling all their Sherries here.
 THE WINES OF SPAIN 113

Typical scenes f r o m a S h e r r y s h i p p e r ' s b o d e g a , Jerez, S p a i n : (left) r o w o n r o w o f

butts, three tiers h i g h , w h i c h f o r m t h e soleras; ( r i g h t ) taster d r a w i n g a S h e r r y s a m p l e
w i t h t h e venencia. ( P h o t o s — P e d r o D o m e c q )

Bottling a sturdy, fortified wine, such as Sherry, presents few prob­

lems, although it is not as simple as merely broaching a butt and run­
ning the wine into bottles. Bottling must take place on a bright, clear
day, the wines must have rested quietly for at least a month, and occasion­
ally it is necessary to fine them. Naturally all this requires experience,
and when buying an American-bottled Sherry, therefore, my suggestion
is that you buy from an importer whom you know to be experienced.

SHERRY TYPES

The same general types of Sherry are produced by all shippers. Each
shipper, however, offers various qualities of each type, and in order to
differentiate not only the various qualities but his own brand from that
of his competitors, the shipper has developed the custom of giving his
Solera a trade name.
The generic types of Sherry shipped by the Jerez houses, with a descrip­
tion of each, are listed:

Type Description
Very dry Manzanilla Pale, light bodied, extremely dry
Very dry Fino Very pale, extremely dry
Dry Vino de Pasto Pale, dry
Dry Amontillado Pale, dry, nutty
Medium Amoroso * Pale, golden, medium dry
Rich Oloroso* Deep golden, sweet
Rich Brown Dark brown, very rich, very sweet
* In the United States, at least, these terms have been replaced by the word "Cream".
A Cream type Sherry will vary from a pale to a deep golden color and from a medium
dry to a sweet taste.
 114 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

MONTILLA

Another wine has been shipped for generations from Jerez, though it
is produced near Cordoba, over a hundred miles away from the Sherry
region. This wine is named Montilla, because it is made in the Montilla
Mountains. It is made much the same as the wine in Jerez, except that it
is matured in enormous earthenware jars, called tinajas, instead of in oak
butts. As a general rule, the wine is shipped without additional fortifi­
cation.
Montilla wines develop a dry, nutty character, and it is from this basic
type that the word and type of Sherry wine called Amontillado is ob­
tained. Amontillado means "on the style of Montilla."
Because the Jerez houses shipped the wines of Montilla for many, many
years, we came to accept them as a Sherry wine. Today the Spanish wine
laws delimit the Montilla region, and henceforth they can no longer be
classified as Sherry. Montilla wines average from 151/2 to 16 per cent
alcohol.
PEDRO XIMENEZ

P.X. is made from the Pedro Ximenez grape which, according to legend,
was brought to Jerez from Germany by a man named Peter Siemens,
whose name was Hispanicized into Pedro Ximenez.
Wine made from this grape is treated differently from regular Sherry.
The grapes are lusciously sweet and very low in acid. Before pressing,
they are spread on straw mats and left in the sun to dry for ten days to
two weeks. After the sunning, the grapes become almost raisin-like. The
must that is obtained is not allowed to ferment, because it is so syrupy
that fermentation would be slow and arduous. Instead, the must is run
into butts containing brandy so that all the natural sugar remains in the
wine. P.X. wines go through their own Soleras.
Obviously, this is an expensive wine to produce. In Spain and in the
Latin American countries Pedro Ximenez wine is popular with the ladies,
but its main use is to lend richness and softness to the blends of rich
Oloroso and brown Sherries. In our own country, this is the blending
Sherry used to soften young whiskies.
Although the Pedro Ximenez grape is grown in a great many vine­
yards, the center of the region where most P.X.'s are grown is around the
town of Pajarete near Arcos. Wines produced in this region are often
shipped under the name of Pajarete.
SHIPPERS

Sherry shipping firms do not spring up, like mushrooms, over night.
It takes years to form the Soleras and, unless a firm could purchase a
 THE WINES OF SPAIN 115
complete bodega, it would take many years to become established. That
is why most of the well-known firms have been in existence for over a
hundred years. As a firm does not stay in business for any length of time
unless it gives quality and deals fairly with its customers, the people man­
aging these old firms obviously handle fine wines and have solid reputa­
tions. In most cases, the directors of these firms are direct descendants of
the founders, and well aware of the responsibility with which they are
charged in maintaining the reputation of thefirmon the same high plane
as that of their forebears.
For this reason, and because Sherry is always a blended wine, the ship­
per's name is of paramount importance in selecting a Sherry. Every bottle
bearing his label carries his assurance of honesty, ability, skill, and repu­
tation for shipping wines of consistently high quality.
Every shipper, of course, handles both fine wines and inexpensive
wines. Do not compare one shipper's fine wine with another's cheap
wine, in trying to establish their merits as shippers.
Each shipper prepares what he thinks is the ideal blend for each qual­
ity of wine. You may prefer one and dislike another. This does not mean
that the second is a poor wine; it merely means that it does not appeal
to your particular taste.
A list of the leading shippers will be found in the Appendix.

HOW AND WHEN TO SERVE SHERRIES

Pale dry Sherries, such as Manzanilla, Fino, Vino de Pasto, Amontil­

lado, and Montilla, are ideal appetizers. They lose nothing by chilling
and I recommend that they be served cold. Serve at any time as an aperi­
tif, before meals, or with hors d'oeuvre or soup.
The medium-dry Amoroso may be served, like the drier wines, slightly
chilled or at room temperature. It is a matter of personal taste preference.
The richer Oloroso or brown wines are too full-bodied to be chilled,
and should be served at room temperature. They make delightful after­
noon drinks to serve at the bridge table or after dinner.
Sherry has many virtues. It can be used in mixed drinks, such as a
cooler, cobbler or flip, and it is indispensable in the kitchen where dishes
of character are prepared.
It is a wine whoseflavoris in no way impaired by smoking. It is sturdy,
does not suffer from travel and therefore is an ideal wine to take travel­
ing or on a picnic. Furthermore, it is an economical wine as a bottle
once opened does not deteriorate and will keep almost indefinitely either
in the bottle or in a decanter.
Note: Sherry often deposits a fairly substantial sediment. This is cream
of tartar, which is natural to the wine. Stand the bottle up for an hour
116 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

and it will fall to the bottom so that clear wine may be poured. This
deposit will vary from one shipment to another of the same wine and
there is no explaining this variation.

OTHER WINES OF SPAIN

Spain's average annual production of wine is about five hundred mil-

lion gallons. The bulk of this is not Sherry, but light, "fresh," beverage
wine, most of which is consumed locally during the year of the vintage.
However, in times past, and even today, other regions of Spain export
quality wines.
An important wine region is the Province of Malaga on the Southern
Mediterranean coast. Before Prohibition, Malaga wines were extremely
popular in the United States, but since Repeal they have not regained
their popularity.
Several types of Malaga wine are made, all very sweet. Some come from
the Pedro Ximenez, to whose juice has been added not only brandy but
also vino de color to make a sweet but full-bodied and dark wine.
Much wine is made from the Muscat grape. This is usually a lighter
colored and lighter bodied wine, but it too is very sweet, as the grapes
are sunned until they are almost raisins before being pressed. This wine
has the characteristic Muscat flavor and is called Moscatel de Malaga.
It is used chiefly as dessert wine in Spain and Latin America.
Along the Levantine coast of Spain, in Valencia, much beverage and
fortified wine is produced, but it is consumed, for the most part, in Spain
itself.
Finally we come to the most individual Province of Spain, Cataluña,
with its beautiful capital, Barcelona, so rudely treated during the recent
fratricidal civil war. There are only three wines of the Province which
concern us: the fortified wines of Tarragona and Sitges, and the beverage
wines of Alella.
Prior to Prohibition, the United States imported vast quantities of
"Tarragona Port." According to our present regulations, however, this
wine can no longer be labeled "Port," and its sale has not been very
important since Repeal. This is a red wine made in a manner similar to
that employed in Portugal. The wine, however, is not as fine, and tends
to be rather rough and coarse. In Spain it is called Priorato.
Tarragona also produces white fortified wines from the Malvasia,
Muscat, and Macabeo grapes, which are famous as Altar or Sacramental
wines. The famous old firm of Augusto de Muller was the accredited
purveyor of Altar wines to the Vatican and the various Cardinals of
Spain.
Further north, but still south of Barcelona, around the seaport of
 THE WINES OF SPAIN 117
Sitges are produced the most famous Moscatel wines of Spain. These are
prepared in the same manner as the Pedro Ximenez wines. They are light
golden in color, have a pronounced Muscatflavor,and are very rich and
soft. As a rule, they have an alcoholic strength of 16 to 18 per cent. These
wines are popular in Spain and in Latin America, though they are un-
known to the American market.
Finally, around the village of Alella, is produced a pleasant, light, dry,
beverage wine of the same name, which ostensibly is supposed to be a
"Rhine wine," as it is bottled in the typical, long, flute-shaped Rhine
wine bottle. It does not taste like a Hock or Moselle, but it is, none the
less, a clean, good wine.
Although the vine is cultivated in nearly every part of Spain and much
good, sound table wine is produced, most of it is consumed at home. In
the northern province of Logroño, in Navarre, lies the triangular basin
of the Rio Oja, whence rises the Ebro River, and where lie the vineyards
which produce the most famous and useful of Spanish table wines, Riojas.
Both white and red wines are obtained from such grape varieties as are
familiar to French wine regions, the Cabernet of Bordeaux, and so forth.
Riojas, either red or white, are full-flavored, have a clean, fresh bouquet,
and a great deal of body. They are somewhat rough, but just the wine
for an outdoor picnic or to drink with rich, well-seasoned food. They are
also pleasant for wine cups or Claret lemonades. Although sometimes
called "Spanish Claret," they do not pretend to be anything but Rioja,
and they give a good account of themselves as such.
 10

The Wines of Portugal

"CLARET IS FOR BOYS, Port for men," declared Dr. Samuel Johnson, affirm­
ing not only his own but England's preference for the wine of Portugal.
Indeed, we generally think of it as an English wine, for it was the Eng­
lish who changed it from a natural wine to the rich fortified wine it is
today, the English who created the markets for it, and the English who
control the trade in Portugal today. The Portuguese themselves, in fact,
prefer the light beverage wines of their country, as Port is a hit rich for
their climate.
In Roman times, Portus Cale, the port at the mouth of the Douro
River, was the most important center of life and trade of ancient Lusi-
tania. It eventually gave its name to the country (modernized to Portu­
gal) and retained for itself the simple title of O Porto, the Port. In ancient
days it was customary to close the Port each night to prevent pirates from
coming in. They were able to do this in ports that had a narrow mouth
by swinging heavy chains across from one bank to the other, which they
called a "bar."
The history of the Port wine trade, like that of Burgundy, is wrapped
up in politics and wars. Although Port has been sold in England since
the fourteenth century, it was not until the Methuen treaty, signed in
1703, that the wine trade began to develop. English merchants had first
settled in Lisbon and Oporto in the sixteenth century, after the discovery
of Brazil led to increased trading possibilities; and when the crews of
English boats began stopping there, as the years went on, England grad­
ually became acquainted with the Portuguese wines.
In 1703 Queen Anne's forces were at war with France; and as a blow
to the French wine trade had the English ambassador, John Methuen,
draw up a commercial treaty with Don Pedro II whereby, in exchange
for free entry of English woolens, Port wine was given an advantageous
preferential duty over all other wines coming into England.
At first, however, the wine, in spite of its low price, was not popular,
being both harsh and sharp. After long experimentation, however, the
enterprising English wine merchants in Oporto discovered that by add-
118
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL 110

Wine Regions

of

Portugal

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN

EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER
120 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
ing brandy to the wine before all the sugar had been fermented out, they
had a wine suited to the English taste and climate. It won ready accept­
ance at home, and the Port trade was established on a firm foundation.
Like so many of our great wines, Port takes its name from the place
whence it was first shipped. It is defined by the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty
of 1916 as "A fortified wine produced in the delimited Douro region
and exported through the Bar of Oporto." Any wine not answering this
description cannot be sold in England as Port, even though it should
bear a qualifying name, such as "Tarragona Port." The same holds true
in this country, according to the regulations of the Federal Alcohol Ad­
ministration, except in the case of a qualifying term such as "California
Port."
The Douro region, one of the most beautiful wine countries in the
world, is a rough, mountainous district, with a river winding, twisting,
and turning between steep schistous slopes The vineyards, known as
quintas, are planted in terraces so that the vines will not be washed down
into the river.

GRAPE VARIETIES
There are many varieties of grapes grown in the Douro Valley but
only two types are essential in the making of Port. The first, including
such plants nobles (best vines) as the Turiga, Mourisco, and Bastardo,
produces a juice lacking in color, fairly light-bodied, but giving the wine
character andfinesse;the other, including the Cao, Tinta Francisca, and
Souzao, bears grapes that are colored red straight through to the pips

View of the vineyards planted on the steep slopes which rise from the gorge o f the
Douro River, along its upper reaches. (Photo—Instituto d o Vinho do Porto—Alvao)
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL 121
and are called tinturiers, which contribute the depth of color to the
common must.
It is usual for a quinta to be planted with anywhere from ten to fif­
teen grape varieties, which are all gathered and pressed together, each
one contributing its individual characteristic to help produce a balanced
wine.
The principal grape varieties employed in the making of white Port
are the Rabigato, Moscatel Branco, Malvasia Fina, and Verdelho.

VINTAGE

The vintage begins at the end of September or the beginning of Octo­

ber, depending on the weather. Men and women gather the grapes, car­
rying huge baskets balanced on their heads, or piling them in squeaking,
two-wheeled, oxen-drawn carts, and it is amazing to watch these lumber­
ing beasts cart the grapes down the steep, narrow roads to the pressing
house without accident.
As in Spain, vintage time has a festival spirit, and the lively music of
the machete (guitar) accompanies the work. The grapes, skins, and pips
are placed in an oblong stone lagar (pressing trough) until it is half full,
and men and women tread them until almost all the juice is expressed.

FERMENTATION

Fermentation begins almost at once and is allowed to continue from

two to three days. The difference between Port and other wines lies in
this process, and therefore the fermentation is carefully watched. The
sugar content of the must is measured periodically with a mustimeter,
and when just the requisite amount of sugar remains unfermented, the
must is run off into pipes (casks) which contain sufficient brandy, distilled
from wines of the district, to raise the alcoholic content to around 20
per cent. This checks fermentation, and the unfermented grape sugar
remains in the wine as sweetening. The amount of sweetness varies with
the choice of each vineyard owner; if a lot of sugar is left in, more brandy
must be added. Because of this, Port is invariably a sweet wine.
After the must has been run into pipes, there will still be a great deal
of juice left in the skins, pips, and stems. Pressure is applied by means of
a one thousand pound stone to express the last drop of juice. The wine
made from this final pressing sometimes becomes Port, but usually brandy
is distilled from it to be used in fortifying Port wines.
The new wines are kept at the quintas until the following spring,
when they are racked off into fresh pipes and sent down the Douro
aboard picturesque sailboats to the shippers' wine lodges in Oporto or
Vila Nova de Gaia, twin cities on opposite banks at the mouth of the
122 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Port vineyard scenes. (Left) Lusitanian vine dresser pruning a vine stock. (Right)
Typical two-wheeled, ox-cart used for transporting brandy and wine. Both views taken
at Quinta da Vista Alegre, Chanceleiros, Portugal. (Photos—Instituto d o Vinho d o
Porto—Alvao)

river. Here the wine is carefully stored until it is decided whether it will
be shipped as a Vintage, Crusted, Ruby or Tawny Port.

VINTAGE PORT
Beverage wines such as Bucellas and Collares, made in Portugal in the
same manner as those of France, will ripen, mature and be at their best
in eight to ten years, but the richly fortified Vintage Ports require up­
wards of twenty years before they reach their prime.
Vintage Port is wine of any exceptional year, bottled two to three
years after the vintage. Weather, rain, sun, and soil co-operate to pro­
duce a big wine, with character, bouquet, and balanced flavor. On the
average, the shippers are able to ship about three vintages in every dec­
ade. Bottling rarely takes place in Portugal. The wine is sold to the wine
merchants in the cask, and each buyer does his own bottling, although
the shipper will do so on request.
Vintage Port usually bears two dates on the label, the vintage date and
the bottling date. The wine must rest for a considerable period of time,
varying with different vintages, but at least eight to ten years are required
for it to mature, and it will continue developing for many more years.
A generous full wine such as Vintage Port throws a heavy deposit as
it matures, consisting of argol, tartrate of lime, and coloring matter,
which settles as a fairly solid crust on the side of the bottle. Once this
begins, shipping of the wine becomes difficult, for unless it has the most
careful handling the crust may break up, clouding the wine. Once broken,
the crust will not re-form. That is why very little Vintage Port has been
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL 123
shipped to America. What little has come over has been decanted off its
crust into new bottles.
The ideal way to bring over Vintage Port is in cask, bottling it here,
or to ship it as soon as it is bottled and before the crust has a chance to
form.
In his Romance of Wine, H. Warner Allen tells a story about his great­
grandfather's uncle, who was greatly addicted to Port. ". . . and when
gout and old age at last drove him to bed, his old servant explained to
his nephew how he was nursing his master; 'I keeps a-turning of his
Worship, 'cause you see, Sir, he's got that much Port in his inside, he'd
be bound to get crusted, if I let 'un stop too long on one side.'"
Vintage Port has the deepest ruby color, the fruitiest bouquet, and the
most body of all styles of Port. Until fully matured it will be quite rough.
Thus it has been customary for the English to lay down a considerable
quantity of an approved Vintage Port, which they buy cheaply, permit­
ting it to mature and treble in value in some twenty odd years. It is no
uncommon practice to purchase Vintage Port at the birth of a son, so
that he may enjoy it when they both reach maturity.

CRUSTED PORT

Crusted Port is a close relative to Vintage Port in that it is usually

wine of a single year. Sometimes, however, it is a blend of vintage wines
from several vintages. It may be bottled early or late but, because it does
not quite come up to "vintage standard" in quality, it is sold without
any date. It is always less expensive, although it resembles Vintage Port
in character, and deposits a crust in the same manner as a vintage wine.
It has a deep, dark ruby color and a fine, fruity bouquet.

RUBY AND TAWNY PORTS

These are blended wines which are matured in wood. They are also
called "Wooded Ports." The blending, or "vatting," employed in the
Port lodges resembles the Sherry Solera system vaguely, in that a definite
standard of style and quality is constantly maintained for each brand a
shipper offers. The object in blending is to balance the qualities that are
lacking in one wine but are present in the other—the wine which has
finesse and delicacy but is light-bodied will be blended with wine that
has a great deal of body but less finesse, and the two will complement
each other, giving a more balanced wine. The shipper sometimes uses as
many as thirty or more wines in his blend.
While the wine is maturing in the pipe, it throws a deposit (crust) just
as it does in the bottle. Some of the deposit is not heavy enough to pre­
cipitate and remains in suspension, causing the wine to have a dull or
124 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

"blind" appearance. This is overcome by fining. Experience has proven

that wines will develop best if kept in a good, brilliant condition. They
are therefore fined on an average of twice a year. The material used may
be a patented fining, but for better wines the shippers generally use
white of eggs.
As the film formed by the fining process settles, it carries down with it
not only the sediment or fliers which were floating in the wine, but also
a certain amount of the coloring matter. As a result, the longer a wine
is kept in the wood, the greater will be the number of times it is fined,
and the less color it will retain. An old wooded Port, consequently, is
paler in color than a young wine. This quality of paleness is called
"tawniness" because as the wine loses redness, a tawny golden glint
appears, which increases with each fining. As it increases in tawniness,
a Port becomes drier, so that an old Tawny will be drier than a young
Tawny, though the word dry is used, in this case, in a relative sense.
Ruby Port is a bright, ruby-colored blend of young wooded Ports. It
is generally fruitier and rougher than a Tawny. There are not many
true Ruby wines on the market, although there are a number of wines
labeled "Ruby" which are, in reality, "Tawny."
A Tawny Port is a blend of well-matured, wooded Ports; it is softer
than Vintage, Crusted, or Ruby wines. It does not possess the fruitiness
of the others, but an old Tawny is a soft, delicate, and elegant wine.
There are a few Vintage and Crusted Ports on the market, but the
wines generally shipped are the Tawny and Ruby Ports.

WHITE PORT
This is the fifth type of wine produced in the Douro Region. Except
for the fact that white grapes are used exclusively, it is made in the same
manner as the red Port. It is matured in wood and is generally quite
soft and pleasant. It is very popular in France, where it is consumed as
an aperitif. Only a small amount is imported into the United States.
PORT VINTAGES
Though not many Port vintages are on the market in this country, we
are likely to import more of them as time goes on and our wine mer­
chants become more conscious of their function and their duty to their
clientele.
Since the turn of the century, the better Port vintages have been: 1900,
1904, 1908, 1912, 1917, 1920, 1924, 1934, 1935, 1942, 1945, 1947, 1948
and 1950.

OTHER WINES OF PORTUGAL

It is illegal to call a wine Port unless it has been produced in the
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL 125
delimited Upper Douro region, yet wines of the same type are made in
other parts of Portugal, primarily on the Tagus and in the Estremadura
region. These wines, shipped from Lisbon, are known as "Lisbon Wine."
The Portuguese themselves prefer wines that are less alcoholic, the
best of which are a white and a red beverage wine—Bucellas and Collares
respectively.
Bucellas is a town near Lisbon where the wine is made primarily from
the Arinto grape. It is a golden, mellow wine with a pleasant character.
Collares is a small town near Cintra in the neighborhood of the cork
woods. The vineyards of the region are planted with Ramisco, which
produces a clean, full-bodied red beverage wine, which is quite popular,
even in England. So far as I know, no Bucellas or Collares have come to
the American market.
However, one of the most pleasant and simple wines of Portugal is
the Vinho Verde, produced in the Northern province of Entre Douro o
Minho. The literal translation of vinho verde is "green wine", but the
term really means "young wine". It is not green, but either white or red.
It is always a light, somewhat acid, refreshing and fragrant wine with an
alcoholic content of 9 to 101/2%. Being light and pleasant and thirst
quenching, it is a wine that is generally drunk in large draughts. It is
not sipped.
I recall particularly a delightful luncheon at a waterfront bistro in Rio
de Janeiro, where the main dish was huge platters of roasted (crunchy)
shrimp washed down with goblets of white Vinho Verde. When the host
ordered a bottle per person, I thought it was too much, but we found it
was insufficient and more wine had to be served, and the ladies present
enjoyed drinking their quota of a bottle plus right along with the men.
Some 25/30,000,000 gallons are produced annually and while I have
not encountered any Vinho Verde in the United States, I do believe it is
a wine that would appeal to the American wine-consuming public.

USES OF PORT
Port wine is served at the end of the meal with cheese; several cheeses,
in fact, are prepared with Port: such as Stilton, Cheddar, and so forth.
It makes excellent cobblers and flips.
It has many uses in the kitchen: in sauces, in the making of Port wine
jellies, and as an addition to fruit cups.
 II

The Wines of Madeira

WHEN VENICE DOMINATED the commerce of the Mediterranean, it had a

great trade with England in the wines of Candia, which were known as
Candy or Malvasia Candiae. The Candia of the thirteenth century is the
Crete of today, whose wines have given way to those of Madeira, and, as
so often happens, the reasons are political. So long as the wine could be
obtained only in Candia, the English submitted to the tyranny of Venice,
but as soon as they could obtain similar wines of equal quality from
Madeira, no time was lost in giving their trade to the Portuguese island,
which is 535 miles south by southwest of Lisbon and some 360 miles off
the North African coast in the Atlantic.
There is- some question as to whether it was Prince Henry or one of
his captains, Joao Goncalves, surnamed Zarco, who discovered the island,
in 1418 or 1420. At all events, Zarco was named Captain of Madeira, and
founded a settlement there on the Bay of Funchal. The island, which
was covered with dense forest from mountain top to seashore, was called
Madeira, or "wooded island." When Zarco arrived with his family and
a group of colonists he found the island uninhabited and untillable
because of the heavy forest. Being a man of action and short of hands,

Madeira DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN

EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

126
 THE WINES OF MADEIRA 127
he did not attempt to cut the timber, but fired it instead. It is said to
have burned for seven years, but when, at length, the fire went out, there
was added to the volcanic quality of the soil, and the accumulation of
centuries of leaf mold, the potash ash of the burned forest, which made
Madeira one of the most fertile of all islands.
Before long, sugar cane and grape vines were planted, and Portugal
had a rich colony. The grape vines were brought primarily from Candia
and were of the Malvasia variety which is still grown on the island.
By the end of the fifteenth century, Madeira was exporting wines to
Europe where they found favor both in France and England. Shake­
speare mentions Madeira in several of his plays, but notably in Henry
IV where Poins greets Falstaff:
"Jack! how agrees the devil and thee about thy soul, that thou soldest
him on Good Friday last for a cup of Madeira and a cold capon's leg?"
And there is the unforgettable story of that early Duke of Clarence
who so loved his Madeira that he drowned in a pipe of it.
The sailing vessels of the American colonies, and English ships sailing
to America made it a practice to stop at Madeira for water and provi­
sions. Here they invariably loaded a few pipes of Madeira wine, and it
became the fashionable wine of the American colonies, a fashion which
remained until the turn of the century.
During the early decades of the nineteenth century, Madeira wines
were often known by the names of the great shipping families of the
Atlantic seaboard whose ship captains brought pipes of wine to their
owners. There were famous Madeiras from Boston, New York, Philadel­
phia, New Orleans, Charleston, and Savannah, while Baltimore was con­
sidered the Madeira capital of the United States.
Some of the ship owners gave the wines the name of the ship which
brought them to America. Andre L. Simon credits the name of Rain­
water to a Madeira enthusiast, Mr. Habisham of Savannah, who em­
ployed a secret fining process which made the wine paler in color without
imparing its bouquet or character. Today, "Rainwater" is a trade-marked
brand owned by Welch Brothers, the Madeira shippers.
Unfortunately Madeira, after being the fashionable wine for many
years, receives little attention in the United States today, a condition
which can only be explained on the ground that the public is not being
informed, by advertising, of the attractiveness of Madeira wines.

GRAPE VARIETIES
The principal grape varieties grown on the island are the Verdelho,
which makes up two-thirds of the planted vines; the Sercial (said to be
the Riesling of the Rhine transplanted to Madeira); the Boual or Boal;
128 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the Malvasia from which is made the famous Malmsey Madeira. The
original Malmsey was produced in Greece in Monemvasia, and in the
Middle Ages red and white Malmsey were shipped all over the world.
Later this type of wine was produced not only in Madeira, but in Italy,
Spain, and the Canary Islands. The name Monemvasia becomes Malvasia
in Italy, Malvoisie in France, and Malmsey in England. The Malvasia
grape requires a very dry soil and intense heat, and is not gathered until
it is shriveled and raisin-like.
Minor grape varieties grown in Madeira are the Tinta or black grape,
the Bastardo, the Terentrez, the Listrao, and the Maroto.
Madeira vineyards are generally small, and are planted with several
varieties of vines. The cultivator does not bother to separate the differ­
ent species before pressing them in the lagar. As a result, there is a rich
and somewhat deep-colored wine from the admixture of black grapes,
some of which are found in every vineyard.
In the larger vineyards, the various kinds of grapes are pressed sepa­
rately and the must from each kept apart, especially that from the Ser-
cial, Boal, and Malvasia varieties.
The system of viticulture in Madeira differs in some ways from that
of other wine regions.
Most of the land is cultivated under the old feudal system of small
tenant farmers, known as caseiros. The caseiro pays half of his grape
crop as rent. The cultivation of the small farm is generally managed on
holidays and during the evenings, so as not to interfere with the daily
work of the tenants, and the business of tending the vineyard is in the
nature of an avocation.
Every inch of ground on the island of Madeira is utilized. The hillside
is so steep that one can hardly find foothold, and yet it is made up into
tiny terraces, each complete with its water channels for irrigation.
Madeira has not sufficient rainfall for its needs, and the land depends
on irrigation for its moisture. The water is brought down from- the hills
in shallow channels which usually run by the roadside. The network of
these channels covers the entire island and the water is managed by com­
mittees appointed by the caseiros. A farmer may be entitled to so many
hours of water every fifteen days and at a given hour—whether it be
three o'clock in the morning or three o'clock in the afternoon, he is
advised: "It is your turn to get water." The stream will be turned into
his farm, and at the end of his time it will be shunted on to the next
farm. This organization is extraordinarily efficient.
The Madeira farmer knows little of modern implements or scientific
methods and does all his cultivating with the primitive enchada, a tool
which is a cross between a pick and a hoe. The hillsides are so steep that
 THE WINES OF MADEIRA 129
not even wheelbarrows can be used, and everything is carted in baskets
carried on the head or shoulders.
The vines are not carefully pruned as is done on the continent as it
has been found more practical, due to the luxurious growth, to grow
them on trellises four or six feet high, with vines fifteen to twenty feet
long.
It is the custom on the island for merchants and shippers to buy the
produce of the vineyard while the grapes are still on the vine. Their
agents watch to see that grape picking is not begun until the proper
time, and supervise the work up to the time of the delivery of the must
into the shippers' cellars.
As only the ripest grapes are picked, it is often necessary to go over
the vineyard four times. The grapes are emptied into a large wooden
lagar, where they are trodden out by six men who stand, three on each
side of a large central beam, jumping up and down to the tune of a
machete.
After the grapes have been thoroughly trodden out, they are piled up
in the center and a large stone, weighing well over a ton, is brought to
bear on them by means of a wooden screw, until there is practically no
juice left in the grapes. This system is ancient, but its results are better
than those of the modern press. The contact of the naked feet on the
grapes brings out the soft jelly found on the inside of the skin, in which
lies the principal flavor.
The must is then placed in goatskins and carried down from the hills
by men called borracheiros, and is emptied from the goatskins, which
hold about 12 gallons and weigh 150 pounds, into casks in the shipper's
lodges. Here the must remains until fermentation is completed, usually
from two to four weeks, when about 3 per cent of brandy is added. The
wine is now known as Vinho Claro.
The brandy is made from Madeira wine. Whenever a wine is fortified
with brandy, by the way, the brandy is always distilled from wine of the
region.
Madeiras are treated in a manner peculiar to the island. They are
matured in estufas or hot houses. These vary in temperature from 130
to 170 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the length of time the wine is to
be baked. If it is to be kept for six months in the estufa, the temperature
will be 130°, but if it is going to be kept only three months then a higher
temperature will be used.
This method of maturing the wine is costly as there is quite a loss
through evaporation, but a well-matured wine is safe against after-
fermentation. All of the work is carried out under government super­
vision. When the wine comes from the estufa it is known as Vinho Estu-
 130 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

fado. It is then allowed to rest for a period of time and racked into fresh
casks, becoming Vinho Trasfugado.
The heating process originated many years ago, when it was discovered
that Madeira wine was greatly improved by a long voyage in the hold of
a ship. At one time, indeed, it was a regular practice to send wines in the
hold of sailing vessels bound for India, and thence back to Europe or
America, where it was known as East India Madeira. Whether it was the
intense heat of the tropical seas through which the wine sailed, or the
motion of the ship, which matured the wine, no one knew. In any case,
Madeira merchants have learned that the estufas produce the same result.
It used to be customary in America for famous shipping families to
keep a cask of Madeira slung in a rocking cradle which was placed in
the entrance hall of the shipping office. It was the duty of every person
who passed through the hall to give the cradle a shove. In this way the
wine was kept in motion from morning until night. Of all wines, Ma­
deira is the only one which enjoys motion, and there is none which is a
better sailor.
The Vinho Trasfugado is additionally fortified to bring it up to an
alcoholic strength of around- 20 per cent, and it then becomes known as
Vinho Generoso. After this, it is blended with other wines of similar
character and matured for a number of years. Wines made from a mix­
ture of grapes are shipped under trade names, while those made entirely
from one grape variety are shipped under the grape name. There are
three of these: Sercial, the driest natural Madeira, very delicate and with
a flavor of its own; the Boal, a rich, generous wine with a lovely bou­
quet, as close to perfection as a wine can be; and Malmsey, with an
almost liqueur-like sweetness.
Generally speaking, Madeira wines are sweet, although the Sercial is
the least so; and there is that extraordinary, bone-dry Gloria Mundi, of
Leacock & Company, which Andre L. Simon describes as "A Madeira
wine so soft and refined that it has no body, no sugar, no color left, and
yet it has bouquet and power; the sort of wine that Rabelais, had he
known it, would have called A Soul with a Nose.'"
Madeira is one of the most long-lived of all wines, and even 100 year-
old wines are magnificent and continue improving as do no other choice
wines. In the past it was customary to keep the vintages separate, and the
wines were sold as vintage wines. Since the phylloxera devastated the
vineyards, seventy years ago, the old vintage wines have been used to
improve the new, and as a result, vintage Madeiras are almost impos­
sible to obtain today. Since Repeal I have seen only one vintage wine, an
1870 Sercial, shipped by-both Leacock and Blandy. The wine is costly
but magnificent. It has such a wealth of bouquet and depth of vinosity
 THE WINES OF MADEIRA 131
that the taste remains in the mouth for several hours after drinking it.
One basic characteristic which all Madeiras have in common is a sub­
tle acid undertone or tang, which is found in all wines produced from
grapes grown in soils of volcanic origin.

USES OF MADEIRA

It may be drunk as an aperitif, served with the soup course in formal

dinners, and as a dessert wine. It finds its greatest usefulness, however,
as a wine to serve in the afternoon or evening, accompanied by a biscuit,
or as a tonic wine. It is rich in phosphates, iron, and minerals.
Madeira is one of the most useful of all wines in the kitchen. It may
be used in soups, sauces, or desserts and can be used in place of Sherry
in most recipes.
 12

Aromatized Wines

"MAN FIRST LEARNED TO MAKE his wine aromatic," said Andre L. Simon,
"when he discovered that by adding honey or sage or some herb to his
sour wine, it became more palatable." Since that day, however, great
strides have been made in the science of producing aromatized wines.
The ancient Greeks preferred pitched or resinated to natural wine, as
do the Greeks of the present day. And the effete Romans liked to flavor
their wines with such interesting materials as pepper, spikewood, cypress,
wormwood, myrrh, poppy, tar, pitch, bitumen, aloes, chalk, mastic gums,
boiled sea water, and asafoetida. Is it strange that one ancient Roman
writer said of wine: "It biteth like a serpent"?
Aromatized wine is fourth in the classification of wines, the others, of
course, being still, sparkling, and fortified. It is a fortified wine in which
herbs, roots, flowers, barks, and other flavoring ingredients have been
steeped in order to change the natural flavor of the wine.
Aromatized wines include both French and Italian Vermouths, and
the quinined or aperitif wines of the various countries, such as Dubonnet,
Byrrh, St. Raphael, and so forth.

FRENCH VERMOUTH

The French type is the "dry" Vermouth. According to French law, a

Vermouth must consist of at least 80 per cent wine, which must have an
alcoholic strength of at least 10 per cent. Later alcohol may be added in
order to raise the strength of the wine up to 19 per cent. Sugar, too, may
be added in order to get the degree of mildness desired.
The wines used for the making of French Vermouth are produced in
the Midi in the Department of the Herault, which produces more wine
than any other province of France. They are light, thin, and rather char­
acterless, known as Picpouls and Clairettes. In addition, a small propor­
tion of Algerian Grenache wine is used.
The process of maturing the wines plays a very important part in the
making of French Vermouth. The dryness of the Vermouth is a perfectly
natural development, as the Clairettes and Picpouls become very dry as
132
 AROMATIZED WINES 133
they mature. In fact, to prevent too much dryness, they are mixed with
the less dry Grenache, grown in Algeria, in a proportion of three to one.
These wines, which are selected from the finest Herault vineyards, will
contain 12 to 14 per cent of alcohol. They are stored from two to three
years in thick oak vats called demi-muids.
In order to give the Vermouth its mildness the better houses use a
mistelle or vin de liqueur in place of sugar. The mistelles are made by
adding to unfermented must the amount of alcohol the must would have
produced, had it been allowed to ferment out. In this manner a mistelle
contains both natural grape sugar and alcohol (in the form of brandy)
at the same time. In making Vermouth, mistelles of Grenache and of
Muscat are used. They are aged separately and for the same time as the
other wines.
In at least one case, a further aging process is used. When the wines
have matured two years, they are placed in casks of 100 gallons, which
are stored in the courtyard of the establishment where they can receive
the benefits of the sun's rays during the day and the coolness of the night.
This daily variation in temperature ages the wines more rapidly. This
treatment can be applied only to better quality wines.
After the wines are thus conditioned, they are blended 80 per cent
Herault wine and 20 per cent mistelle. This is known as "basic wine."
The basic wine is then embodied with the infusion obtained by steeping
the special flavoring agents in the wine, according to a duly tested for­
mula. This brings out the characteristic Vermouth bouquet, in which a
manifold aroma is blended in the most attractive manner.
There are some forty different herbs, plants, roots, leaves, peels, seeds,
and flowers used in the process of making French Vermouth. Some of
these are nutmeg, coriander seeds, cloves, cinnamon, rose leaves from
Bengal, Peruvian quinine bark, hyssop, marjoram, angelica root, worm­
wood, bitter orange peel, camomile, linden tea, centaury, gentian, and
flowers of elder.
All the plants are put in a large tank. The basic wine is then poured
in and left in contact with the plants for one month; then this wine,
which has taken on flavor from the plants, is drawn off and new basic
wine is added in its place. This is done four times before the flavor of
the plants is exhausted, and the basic wine which has acquired the flavor­
ing is now known as the infusion.
The infusion is mixed in a proportion of one to five with other basic
wine, and alcohol is added to raise the strength of the wine to 19 per cent.
This mixture must be allowed to blend thoroughly, and it is put into
glass-lined vats where the wines are brought down to a temperature of
nearly freezing, constantly stirred by giant paddles to insure a perfect
 134 GROSSMAN S GUIDE
blending. This refrigeration has a purpose. Vermouth, like all wine, con­
tains some tartaric acid, which is a natural element in the composition
of wine. It is invisible, but in time it crystallizes and forms a deposit
known as cream of tartar. The formation of this deposit can be forced by
abruptly lowering the temperature of the wine.
Vermouth becomes darker in color as it ages, but variations in color
have nothing to do with the quality of the Vermouth. The trade, how­
ever, insists that it be the same color year in and year out. To insure this,
caramel is added if the color is too light; or, if it is too dark, it is mixed
with a lighter Vermouth.
It takes three and a half to four years properly to mature, age and pre­
pare a true French Vermouth. This means that enormous reserve supplies
must always be kept on hand and large sums of money are invested in
these stocks for a great many years. For this reason, only well-established,
financially sound houses can afford to finance the aging process which
alone insures that the wines will acquire the properties of perfect ma­
turity which would not be possible in any other way.
The French Vermouth business must be conducted on a mass-produc­
tion scale, for otherwise it would not be economical.

ITALIAN VERMOUTH
The Italian Vermouth is the "sweet" type, made from white wines.
This "sweetness" is due to the fact that the basic wine used for the mak­
ing of the Vermouth is sweeter and fuller than the thin white Herault
wine of the Midi. The law in Italy is specific about Vermouth being
made from wines which are at least one year old. Between infusing and
final filtering, another year is employed, so that it takes approximately
two years to produce an Italian Vermouth.
The inexpensive wines of Pulia are used for the making of Italian
Vermouth. These rather bland wines are infused with various herbs,
roots, seeds, and a little quinine. They are allowed to mature, and as
soon as they have absorbed a sufficient amount of flavor they are drawn
off, fortified, filtered, and some sugar and coloring matter are added. The
brown color is obtained by the addition of caramel.
There is a reason for the use of quinine. When the European countries
started colonizing the Tropics they found that there was a lot of malaria
fever, and the best medicine for this was quinine—and thus quinine was
added to the wine.
There are two distinct types of Italian Vermouth: the sweet aperitif
type, and the drier cocktail type; the cocktail type is most popular in the
United States.
 AROMATIZED WINES 135

OTHER VERMOUTHS

Vermouths are made in other parts of the world, as well as in France

and Italy. There are Spanish, Portuguese, American, Australian and
South African Vermouths. In fact, wherever wine is produced, some Ver-
mouth is made. These, however, are for the most part consumed locally.

OTHER AROMATIZED WINES

The aperitif wines are made in almost all European wine-producing

countries in the same manner as French Vermouth, except that the pro-
portion of mistelle, made from Algerian wines, is generally greater—the
wines being sweeter.
When the aperitif is white, the basic wine used is white; when red, the
basic wine is red. The variation in taste, i.e., sweetness, bitterness, or.
aromatic flavor, results from the use of different formulae, which are
trade secrets of each producing house.
The principal aperitif wines sold in this market are Dubonnet, Byrrh,
(red), and St. Raphael (white). Serve them neat, well-chilled, or use as
cocktail ingredients as you would Vermouth.

USES OF VERMOUTH AND APERITIF WINES

In America we think of Vermouths as wines to be used in the prepara-

tion of our favorite cocktails—Martini (French Vermouth) and Manhat-
tan (Italian Vermouth), and that is the principal use made of them and
the aperitif wines as well.
In other parts of the world, however, Vermouths are widely used as
aperitif wines by themselves. They are always served well-chilled. In
Cuba they drink a great deal of French Vermouth. Also French Ver-
mouth achampañado, which is made in this way: twist a small piece of
lime into a 5 ounce glass, add cracked ice, 1/2 teaspoonful of sugar, 2
ounces of Vermouth, and then fill with seltzer and stir a little.
Another drink made with French Vermouth is Vermouth Cassis. Take
a 5 ounce glass, put in a couple of bits of cracked ice,3/4ounce of Crême
de Cassis, ounces French Vermouth, add seltzer water.
 13

The Wines of the United States

AMERICA IS ONE of the richest countries in the world in viticultural nat­

ural resources, as more than half of the known varieties of grape vines
(vitis) are indigenous to our continent. Logically, it would seem that
wine should be a standard daily beverage here.
Five hundred years before Columbus "discovered" America, about the
year 1000, Leif the Lucky and his band of Norse Vikings reached the
eastern shores of America—supposed to be a part of Rhode Island or
Massachusetts. They were so impressed by the abundance and luxuriance
of the wild grapes that they named the country "Vineland the Good",
and so it was known in Icelandic literature for centuries.
The Indians used grapes as a staple fruit, and in the first narrations of
early voyages, the grape is found in the list of the resources and treasures
of the new-found continent, which indeed proved to be a natural vine­
yard.
Our earliest settlers on the eastern seaboard planted the vine and made
wine from the grapes which it produced. However their efforts were
doomed to failure because in the East the English sent over European
grape vines, in their attempt to produce wine identical to that of Europe,
instead of developing the indigenous vines. In California the missionaries
did much the same thing, but there they had greater success, since the
climate and soil are better suited to the European varieties.
The reason for the miserable failure of this attempt was due to the
fact that the vine growers refused to recognize an important fact; our
land, rich though it was in hardy, native grapes, was hostile to the sweet,
soft roots of the European varieties. Not only were the soil and climate
unsuited for the foreign plants, but the scourge of the grape vine, phyl­
loxera vastatrix, attacked the gentle foreigners on American soil, just as
it was later to attack them on their own soil, with the same ruinous
results.
The phylloxera vastatrix is, to the best of our knowledge, a native
American. It is a plant pest of the louse family which lives on the roots
of the grape vine. Sometime between 1858 and 1863 Europe imported
136
 THE WINES OF T H E UNITED STATES 137
many American vines for experimental purposes. It is practically certain
that the deadly phylloxera was brought in on these American root stocks.
Within a few years it had become a true scourge and from 1865 to 1890
the phylloxera devastated the vineyards of Europe from France to Greece,
from Spain to Germany, even appearing in Russia; the pest then crossed
the oceans and appeared in Australia. In our own country it seriously
damaged some of the vineyards of California in 1890, where it had been
previously unknown.
It is impossible even today to estimate the actual pecuniary loss, but in
1888 M. Lalande, President of the Chamber of Commerce of Bordeaux,
calculated that the loss to France alone amounted to two billion dollars,
or twice the indemnity paid to Germany in 1871 after the Franco-Prussian
War.
The phylloxera has a sharp proboscis with which it pierces the bark of
the root. It subsists on the sap of the vine. One solitary louse would do
very little damage but each lays many eggs which hatch out in six to ten
days. After a few days the young attach themselves to a convenient spot
on the root and within three weeks are adults laying more eggs. It has
been estimated that a single female which lays a batch of eggs in March
and dies, would have 25,000,000 descendants by October.
Every known method of combating diseases of the vine was employed
but with little success. It was not until the European viticulturists dis­
covered that the American root stocks were hardier, and immune to the
phylloxera, that they found that the solution to their problem was to
graft the European vines on American root stocks.
It is clear that the United States has very radically and vitally influ­
enced European and world viticulture and wine. However, it must be
pointed out and borne in mind that even though American root stocks
are in fairly general use in Europe, the basic character of the various
grape varieties which have been grafted on them, and which form the
vine itself, has not changed and the wines made from these grapes are
the same as before grafting.
Even in California, where European varieties of grapes are grown al­
most exclusively, it is necessary to use native American root stocks as a
defense against the ever-present, patiently waiting phylloxera, so truly
surnamed "vastatrix" (devastating.)
Near the end of the nineteenth century the wine industry was produc­
ing wines fine enough to win some medals and gain recognition in ex­
positions in France. That our wines had established themselves abroad
through their own excellence, is evidenced by the fact that, when in
Bremen in 1924, in the famous Hillman's Hotel I found included on the
wine list "California Burgundy." In fact, there are many strong indica-
138 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

tions that American wines were well on their way toward becoming firmly
established when another and more fatal blight was visited upon the
vineyards—National Prohibition.
There was consternation among the vintners in 1919. What were they
going to do with the grapes which were good only for the making of
wine? Smaller and less sweet than table or raisin grapes, they were poor
travelers because of their thin, easily bruised skins. The inevitable hap­
pened—many vineyards were uprooted and replanted with more salable
types of grapes, and in some cases with other fruits. The thousands of
acres of grapes which remained under cultivation during the entire
Prohibition period were used in the production of sacramental, medici­
nal, and cooking wines. Naturally, this business had its limitations and
was not large enough to encourage new plantings.
With Repeal, the whole process had to be reversed. While fine wine
grapes were growing in the California vineyards, they could not produce
enough for the newly established market. There have been quality wines
produced in California before, during, and since Prohibition, but it is
only now that we are beginning to produce quality wines in commercial
quantities.
The wines of the United States fall into two distinct classes: American
or native wines, made from grapes grown in the East and Middle West,
which are unlike any other wines in the world; and California wines,
made from European grapes, grown on the West Coast, and resembling
European wines.
 14

American Wines

T H E WINES PRODUCED in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains—

particularly in the regions of New York, Ohio, New Jersey, Virginia,
Missouri and Michigan—are called "American wines," because they are
distinctly native to America. The grape varieties that grow here refuse to
be cross-bred with those of the European types. It took the early settlers
several hundred years to realize this fact and until they did, they could
not produce wines with any measure of success.
Early settlers left records of the wealth of wild grapes found in many
sections along the eastern seaboard. In 1565, Captain John Hawkins
spoke of the grapes he found in the Spanish Settlements in Florida, and
mentioned that the Spaniards had made ao hogsheads of wine from the
wild grapes—probably vitis rotundijolia, best represented by the Scup-
pernong, found along the Atlantic seaboard from Maryland to Florida.
Still later, Thomas Hariot, writing of the advisability of establishing
colonies in America, mentioned grapes which were of two kinds, one
small and sour, the size of the European grape; while the other was
larger, more sweet and luscious.
In 1601, that doughty colonizer, Captain John Smith, wrote in greater
detail. "Of vines," he said, "great abundance in many parts, that climbe
the toppes of highest trees in some places, but these beare but few grapes
except by the rivers and savage habitations, where they are overshadowed
from the sunne; they are covered with fruit though never prunned nor
manured. Of these hedge grapes we made neere twentie gallons of wine,
which was like our British wine, but certainly they would prove good
were they well manured. There is another sort of grape neere as great as
cherry, this they (Indians) call messamins; they be fatte and the juyce
thicke, neither doth the taste so well please when these be made in
wine."
It was Lord Delaware, Governor of Virginia, who first suggested that a
wine industry be established in America, when he wrote to the London
Company in 1616. The idea was enthusiastically approved, and expert
French vine dressers and a wide assortment of the finest European vine
139
140 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

cuttings were shipped to this country. There the first mistake was made.
It is understandable that the newly arrived colonists should find the
wine, made from native grapes with their strange, wild taste, a shock to
their palates. Instead of recognizing the merits of the new wine, they
insisted that it be like the old, with which they were familiar. This may
seem unreasonable, though it is just what occurs when Americans, travel­
ing abroad, insist that the coffee be like that which they are accustomed
to at home.
If these early settlers had attempted to adapt themselves to native
wines, it is possible that rising generations would have accepted them
and we would have become a wine-drinking nation, instead of having to
overcome an inferiority complex about the quality of our native wines.
Numerous attempts were made, vine dressers changed, vines varied,
but all to no avail. For two centuries after Lord Delaware's first efforts,
wine-makers stubbornly continued their efforts to grow the foreign vine,
and it was not until the nineteenth century, when they understood the
devastation wrought by the phylloxera on foreign vines, that they were
able to succeed. Then and only then was a serious effort made to permit
our native grape east of the Rockies to stand on its own feet.
The vine can and does prosper in every State in the Union, but not
every grape variety makes good wine, and there are certain regions in
the United States, as in other countries, where wine grapes grow more
successfully than others. In the order of their importance these regions
are :
New York. In the Finger Lake region in the northern part of the State,
and along the Hudson River, around Highland in Sullivan County.
Ohio. From Sandusky to Cleveland along Lake Erie.
New Jersey. Around Egg Harbor, near Atlantic City.
Southeastern Seaboard. This region includes the coastal plain from
Virginia to Florida.
Missouri. Near Herman in the Missouri River Valley and in the foot­
hills of the Ozark Mountains in the southern part of the State.
Michigan. Around Benton Harbor.

GRAPE VARIETIES
Two types of grapes are grown: native wild, undomesticated Musca­
dines (vitis rotundifolia), and the hybrids which have been obtained by
cross-breeding and careful selection with vitis labrusca vines almost ex­
clusively as the starting point.

MUSCADINES
There are three principal varieties of Muscadines: the Scuppernong,
 AMERICAN WINES 141

American
Wine Regions

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

142 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

James and Misch. The Scuppernong is a white grape and the other two
are black. The most famous of these is the Scuppernong, which grows
profusely and naturally south of the Mason and Dixon line, particularly
in Virginia, the Carolinas, Tennessee, Georgia, and Florida. It gives a
rather sweet, rich white wine with an individual taste all its own. For
best results, the vines cannot be pruned, but must grow freely.
The late Paul Garrett, dean of American vintners, and, to the best of
my knowledge, the only producer of a commercial Scuppernong wine,
Virginia Dare, had a Scuppernong vine in Tyrrell County, North Caro­
lina, near Roanoke Island, discovered in 1585, over 350 years ago. Many
vineyards have been planted from cuttings from this majestic vine.
The principal cultivated and crossbred varieties—it is impossible to list
all varieties within the confines of this book—are:

RED GRAPES
Delaware—originated by A. Thompson, supposedly at Delaware, Ohio,
in 1848. These are small, light red, very sweet grapes, and one of the
best fine-wine grapes produced in the East. The Delaware is used for both
white and red beverage wines, although more often white wine, and it is
indispensable for the making of sparkling wine.
Catawba—known since 1823 when it was found growing along the banks
of the Catawba River in North Carolina and introduced to the Wine
Trade by John Adams. It is a fairly large red grape on a par with the
Delaware, with which it is often used. From the Catawba, which when
thoroughly ripe has a high sugar content, are produced some of the best
sweet white beverage and sparkling wines in America.
Diana—originated by Mrs. Diana Crehore in Massachusetts in 1844,
is a seedling of the Catawba. It is a juicy red grape extensively used for
white wines.
Iona—originated by C. W. Grant in New York in 1855 is another red
grape formerly prized for white production, not grown so abundantly
today.
Vergennes—is a highly prized red variety of limited availability, for
which reason the small quantities of wines obtained from this grape
usually find their way into the private stocks and cellars of the vineyard-
ists for their personal use.

WHITE GRAPES
Dutchess—originated by A. J. Caywood, according to Valear—"from a
white Concord seedling fertilized by Delaware." It is a light green (white)
thick-skinned grape, best suited for late picking.
Elvira—originated by Jacob Rommel of Missouri in 1863. It, too, is a
white grape, which is late picked and in some cases allowed to remain
 AMERICAN WINES 143

on the vine until it develops edelfaule or "noble mold" similar to that

which is found in the German wine regions. Wines produced from such
grapes will*have a rich bouquet and flavor, as well as taste.
Niagara—originated by Hoagland Clarke of New York in 1872. It is a
white grape presumed to have been obtained from a Concord crossed
with another labrusca.
Moore's Diamond—originated by Jacob Moore by crossing a Concord
with Iona, whose popularity is increasing.
Riesling—is, to the best of my knowledge, the only vinifera variety that
is grown at all in the Eastern wine regions. The quantity available is
limited, but the wines that are obtained are excellent.
Noah—originated by Otto Wasserzieher in Illinois, 1873.
Ontario and Portland—originated by the New York Experimental Sta­
tion in 1908 and 1912 respectively.

BLACK GRAPES
The dark or black grape varieties are not used so widely as the red
and white, but should be noted as some are to be found under cultiva­
tion in most regions. They are: Clinton—a New York grape known since
1835; Eumelan; Fredonia—which was developed by the Geneva Experi­
mental Station; Isabella—originated in 1816 by William Prince of New
York; Ives—originated by H. Ives of Ohio, in 1840; Lenoir—oi unknown
origin; and Norton—originated by Dr. Norton of Virginia in 1830.

CONCORD GRAPES
This most important of all American grapes was introduced about 1849
by S. W. Bull. It has since served as a base for cross-breeding, but what
is more, it is the more widely used grape we have. From the Concord is
produced all the commercial grape juice that is consumed in the United
States, practically all the grape jelly and preserves is made from Con­
cords, as is an important part of the kosher wine made both commer­
cially and privately.

INDIGENOUS VARIETIES
Of the many grape vines native to our country only a few are of impor­
tance to wine production. Besides those referred to above as direct pro­
ducers, i.e., vitis rotundifolia and vitis labrusca, there are others that are
important and which are used throughout the world as root-stocks upon
which viniferas are grafted. They are so used because they have been
found to be the only successful defense against the ravages of phylloxera
and several other diseases of the vine. The principal varieties are: vitis
riparia, vitis rupestris, vitis aestivalis and vitis berlandieri.
144 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The wines made from our native American grapes have a distinctive
flavor unlike those of any other part of the world. As the grapes grew
wild, the early settlers attributed the strong, strange taste to the fact that
the grapes were not cultivated or domesticated, and called the taste "wild"
or "foxy." This taste, which is more or less pronounced in all wines made
from native grapes, is similar to the strong grape taste of the Concord
grape.
The native grapes are high in acid and low in sugar, characteristics
diametrically unlike those of the grapes of other countries.
The most important wine-producing section of the East is the Finger
Lakes region of upper New York, about 50 miles from Rochester, where
the soil, drainage, and climate bear a striking resemblance to that of the
French Champagne region. It is a beautiful countryside of rolling hills,
dotted with lovely lakes. The region is devoted almost entirely to viti­
culture. All types of wine are made, but sparkling wine predominates, as
this is the Champagne section of America.
The center of the region is Lake Keuka, with Hammondsport at one
end and Penn Yan at the other, with Naples and its vineyards nearby.
By 1867 the Pleasant Valley Wine Company at Hammondsport, which
made both sparkling and still wine, produced American Champagne of
such excellent quality that it won a gold medal at the Paris Exposition.
The Catawba is one of the mainstays of the blends of grapes used for
making Champagne in the East. Because of the color in the skin of this
grape, it is necessary to remove the juice from the grape pulp as soon as
it is pressed, in order to produce a light-colored wine.
The Catawba attained its greatest fame prior to Prohibition, due no
doubt to the energy of Nicholas Longworth, whose grandson was the late
Speaker of the House. As a hobby, Mr. Longworth made a Sparkling
Catawba which was so good and so popular that it won gold medals in
foreign competitions and made him a fortune. He used to sell upwards
of 100,000 bottles a year, produced at his vineyards near Cincinnati, Ohio.
Among his papers is a letter which Mr. Longworth wrote to the Mem­
bers of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, dated September 10, 1845,
which is particularly interesting because it indicated the progress wines
had made and the bright future which lay before them. It reads in part:

"The vintage is not only early but the grapes ripen well, and the
yield of wine is greater than I have ever known it and of unusual
richness. Three of the vine dressers assure me that they have made
from 13 to 14 gallons of wine from aflour-barrelof grapes—which I
rate at21/2bushels. . . . I have never heard of the grapes of Europe
equalling this.
 AMERICAN WINES 145

"The day is not distant when the Ohio River will rival the Rhine
in the quantity and quality of this wine. I give the Catawba the pref­
erence over all other grapes, for a general crop for wine. Sugar was
formerly added. The Germans have taught us better. Where the
fruit is well-ripened, sugar will injure it where intended for long
keeping; where the grapes do not ripen well, I should still add from
6 to 10 oz. of sugar to the gallon of must. It rivals the best Hock and
makes a superior Champagne.
"The Mission grape makes a fine wine, resembling Madeira, but
is less productive than the Catawba. I have heretofore considered
this a French Pineau grape, as it is a delicate grower with us; I sent
some of the plants to my sister in New Jersey where the soil is bare,
stoney and still. It grows perfectly hardy; and I now deem it a
native."
Mr. Longworth went on to describe various other grape varieties which
are still in use, such as the Herbemont, the Lenoir, the Ohio, and the
Norton. Then he added:
"If we intend cultivating the grape for wine, we must rely on our
native grapes and new varieties raised from their seed.
"If I could get my lease of life renewed for 20 or 30 years, I would
devote my attention to the subject, and I would cross our best native
varieties with the best table and wine grapes of Europe. We live in
a great age. Discoveries are daily made that confound us, and we
know not where we shall stop."
Still widely used in the making both of sparkling and still wines, the
Catawba is used in conjunction with other varieties, primarily the Dela­
ware, which today has replaced it as the best fine-wine grape. The wine
has a pleasant though slightly wild aroma and flavor, distinctly different
from any European wine.
One of the best sweet white wines I have tasted was a Sweet Catawba
produced at Highland on the Hudson. It is now bottled as "Sauterne." *
AMERICAN WINE TYPES AND THEIR PRODUCTION
All classes and types of wines are produced by the Eastern wineries,
generally bearing the generic type names such as Claret, Burgundy,
Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling, Port, Sherry, etc. Some are also marketed
under varietal labels as Delaware, Catawba, etc. The Eastern producers
are better known for their white wines. While those that are generically
labeled may not resemble the original prototype entirely, they are wines
with character and a pleasant flavor, and they are most enjoyable to
drink.
* The original, produced in the Bordeaux wine region of France, is always spelled
Sauternes.
146 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The care exercised in the vineyards while the grapes are maturing and
at vintage time is very much the same as in the European wine regions
When the grapes are gathered they are handled with the utmost care so
that no damage be suffered before pressing at the winery.
Winery operations, at least in the New York State Finger Lakes area,
include the best of the old-fashioned methods to which the most modern
advances have been adapted. For example, while fermentation takes
place in large ancient oak vats, all racking and movement of wine from
one vat or cask to another is through pyrex-glass tubing; pure culture
yeast strains are employed to assure continuing uniformity of character
to the wines of each succeeding vintage. Andfinally,some of the leading
wineries today maintain air-conditioned cellars, which insures dry, clean,
mold-free cellars, precise and continuous temperature and humidity con­
trol. To be perfectly sure of shipping brilliant and stable wines chilling
and pasteurization are practiced.
The table wines are aged in small oak cooperage for several years
before bottling, after which they are given several more years of bottle
aging before being marketed.
The New York State vintners have developed their own unique method
of producing Sherry. Year-old wines of Sherry quality and character, con­
taining 19/21% of alcohol, are barreled in regulation uncharred 50-gallon
whiskey style barrels. These are then stored in the open, very often upon
the roofs of the winery establishment, where they are left exposed to the
sun and elements for at least three years. They are then brought back to
the cellars where the wines by then will have developed the desired nutti-
ness and mellowness. They are blended, filtered and treated to insure
brilliance, bottled and sent to market.

CHAMPAGNE
However, it is in the making of sparkling wines that our Eastern
vintners excel and have made a name for themselves. The two main
grape varieties employed are the Delaware and Catawba. They are uni­
versally used for the production of American Champagne, which on the
whole is of excellent quality. Champagne is made in the Finger Lakes
region of New York, in the area about Sandusky, Ohio, on Lake Erie,
and in Missouri.
The American Champagnes which enjoy the greatest repute, and prob­
ably the greatest sales also, are all produced in the same manner as the
wines of Champagne, France, by means of the secondary fermentation
in the bottle. These wines are clean, have a delicate flavor, and are most
satisfactory examples of quality viniculture.
 AMERICAN WINES 147
Another important American Champagne-producing region is found
about St. Louis, Missouri, where the wine is produced from a blend of
California wine and wines produced from Delaware and Catawba grapes,
by the approved bottle fermentation method, also called the Methode
Champanoise. It should be remembered that it takes the American Cham­
pagne producer just as long—at least five years, from the gathering of
the grapes through the numbers of processes and hundreds of times each
bottle is handled,—until the wine is ready for marketing, as it does his
French colleague.
Sparkling wines are also made by fermenting the wine in large tanks
and bottling under pressure. This method is known as the Charmat
process or "bulk fermentation" method. Wines made in this manner can­
not be labeled "Champagne" but must, under our regulatory laws, be
labeled "Champagne style", "Champagne type" or "American Cham­
pagne—bulk process".
Bulk-process fermentation has the advantage of saving several years in
making the wine available for the market, and consequently is much less
costly to produce. But by the same token, certain quality factors are
sacrificed. The gas does not really become a component part of the wine
and tends to escape more rapidly, once the bottle is opened.
There is still another type of sparkling wine made that is artificially
carbonated—by adding the carbonic acid gas in much the same way in
which soda pop is made. It cannot be called or labeled "Champagne".
It must be labeled "Carbonated Wine".

POST REPEAL DEVELOPMENT

Two of the most interesting developments in wine marketing observed
in the United States since the end of World War II have been the wide
distribution and acceptance for quality of certain New York State wine
brands, and the almost overnight development of the so-called kosher
wines.
During a post-war survey trip I made, visiting the principal marketing
areas, I found that the Wine Trade in general set its standards of com­
parison both quality and price-wise against the New York State wines
which the public has come to accept as THE premium quality wine for
which it will pay top prices and still buy in volume. This can only mean
that the public finds these wines satisfy their taste and that the quality
is worth the price it is asked to pay. Of course one cannot discount the
intelligent, aggressive merchandising and advertising of the New York
State Wine Producers, which have had much to do with the results
obtained.
148 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The big sale developed in recent years for commercially produced

kosher wines is due primarily to the intensive advertising and merchan­
dising effort made by the two or three principal firms specializing in the
production of these wines. But at the same time it must be recognized
that the product must have a wide appeal to the consuming public, else
all the advertising and salesmanship in the world would not produce
a continuing popularity of these wines.
Quality-wise they are not too distinguished. They are not inexpensive,
but in my opinion their ready acceptance and wide sale comes from the
fact that they are sweet to the taste. The average consumer who has never
tasted wine will naturally find the sweetness of these wines more appeal­
ing to his palate than the very dry red or white table wines of California
and Europe. Sampling these wines he finds a beverage with a pleasant,
fruity bouquet andflavorand at the same time a rich sweetness in taste.
"The proof of the pudding is . . ." that the sale of these wines is reputed
to be well over four million cases a year.
The logical conclusion to be drawn from this is that the producers of
California and the other wine regions of the United States would be able
to win and influence more new friends for wine if they would offer the
public a red and a white wine typical of their regions, but with a
sweetened taste. This, in my opinion, would attract more people to the
custom of drinking wine at table as part of the regular diet, rather than
only occasionally and, more often than not, only between meals.

American Champagne cellar scenes. (Left) Hoisting bottles from one cellar to another
by "basket-elevator". (Right) A skilled American workman performing the remuage
operation in the approved French style. (Photos—American Wine Co., Inc.)
 15

California Wines

T H E RECORDS show that in the year 1518 Cortez, the Spanish conqueror
and overlord of Mexico, ordered the establishment of a wine industry
in the New World, obliging holders of land grants to plant one thousand
vines per year for five years, for every hundred Indians living on the
land. This agricultural program proved so successful that the mother
country, fearing harm to her own wine industry, ordered wine growing
stopped and decreed that wine not imported from Spain should be con­
sidered contraband. Like all prohibitions, it failed in its purpose. The
vines once planted continued to bear their fruit and wine was made
surreptitiously.
Eventually the Spanish colonizers pushed west and then north, into
what is today California. This movement was led by the missionaries,
whose primary object was the propagation of the Faith.
It was only natural that when the Church established its missions with
their surrounding settlements, that vines should be planted. The Fran­
ciscan padres, led by Fray Junipero Serra, planted grapes in California
as early as 1769 at the San Diego Mission . . . and for the first time
found soil in North America where the vine would prosper and produce
good wine. The arid lands of northern Mexico and Lower California did
not, and still do not lend themself graciously to viticulture.
The Franciscan missionaries built twenty-one missions, reaching as far
north as Sonoma, the northern terminus of the Camino Real, i.e., the
"King's Highway". Descendants of the vines planted at these missions
are still growing. Their largest winery was at the Mission of San Gabriel,
near present-day Los Angeles, and the original adobe winery building,
where the Indians trod the grapes, still exists with its three wine presses.
There too, the famous Trinity vine, planted by the Franciscans, flour­
ished and bore grapes for over 170 years.
Until 1824 the Franciscans were the only wine producers in California.
They did not attempt commercial production, confining their efforts to
their own sacramental and table needs. At that time one Joseph Chap­
man, an American, settled near Los Angeles and planted 4000 vines. He
149
150 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

California vineyards. (Left) Livermore Valley south of San Francisco. (Right) Part of
the 21,000 acres of fertile vineyard land of Sonoma County, north of San Francisco.
(Photos—Wine Institute—Moulin)

was followed in 1831 by a Bordeaux Frenchman, Jean Louis Vignes, who

was shortly producing very excellent wine and brandy. He was so suc­
cessful that by 1840 he was chartering vessels to ship his wine and brandy
to the ports of Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco. However,
the trade was still small. Then came the Gold Rush of 1849 and with it
a boom in all activities. The widening of the market made it financially
possible for still another and most important change to be brought about
in California wines.
The vines the missionaries planted came from those varieties originally
brought to Mexico from Spain during the preceding three centuries.
While they were true viniferas, their value for wine growing was limited.
As a matter of fact, through the years these vines have lost their original
European varietal identity, and they are today known and classified as
the Mission.
Because the soil and climate of California were so hospitable to the
European vitis vinifera family of vines, no serious attempt has been made
to cultivate the wine growing of our own native American varieties in
California, and virtually all grapes grown there, whether for wine, table
or raisin use are from viniferas.
Vignes brought over choice vinifera cuttings from France which pros­
pered in his vineyard, and others then did likewise, but it was not until
after the arrival of that amazing gentleman, Count Agoston Haraszthy,
in 1849—a sort of "Johnny Appleseed" to the California grape vine—
that a real wine industry was developed.
The tireless and far-sighted Haraszthy convinced John G. Downey, the
 CALIFORNIA WINES 151
Governor of California, of the important part the wine industry could
play in the development of the economy of the new state. As a result, he
was sent to Europe in 1861 to select and bring back the widest possible
selection of European (vinifera) grape varieties. He returned with over
100,000 cuttings of some 1400 varieties, and in the space of a few short
years he had a vineyard in the Sonoma Valley with 85,000 vines developed
from imported stocks, and a nursery of 460,000 vines. With this effort he
set the course for commercial wine growing from which those who have
followed him have not deviated.
Haraszthy experimented at his Sonoma Valley vineyard and nursery,
selecting those vines which showed greatest promise. These were then
sold or distributed in all sections of the state. Although at first the wines
obtained were rather indifferent, it was not long before the vintners
learned to improve their product and were obtaining good, sound, drink­
able wine which improved in quality each year. By 1875 California was
producing four million gallons of wine a year.
California wine began to acquire a character of its own, and the cus­
tom of estate-bottling was practiced at some of the best vineyards. In 1895
some 15,000,000 gallons of wine were being made, and most of it was
being shipped to other parts of the United States, Mexico, Central Amer­
ica and the Far East.
Gaining confidence in their early success, the vintners began to com­
pete with the European producers and by 1900 they had won gold, silver
and bronze medals, a few blue ribbons and even grand prizes at the inter­
national expositions. Many of the great names associated with the devel-

California winery cellar scenes. (Lett) Wine maturing in small oak cooperage, in cellar
hewn by hand from limestone. (Right) Fancy quality wine maturing in bottle.
(Photos—Wine Institute)
 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
152
opment of California and the Pacific Coast were actively engaged in the
wine industry as vineyard owners. They were men like Leland Stanford,
George Hearst, James G. Fair, Elias "Lucky" Baldwin, John Sutter and
James Marshall, to mention only a few of the men who made both
history and wine in California.

SET-BACKS
But, as I have pointed out at the beginning of Chapter 4 on "Wine in
General", the vintner's life is not an easy one. It is a continual struggle
against the ravages of the elements, disease and countless other enemies.
The vineyards of California were and are no more immune to these mis­
fortunes than those of other wine regions of the world. So it happened
that one day in 1874 a vineyard in Sonoma County was found to be
withering from an unknown ailment. Soon other vineyards became sim­
ilarly affected, and in less than five years the vineyards of Sonoma, Napa,
Yolo, El Dorado and Placer counties were being ravaged by the same
blight. The villain turned out to be our own American (phylloxera)
grape louse, to which I have referred on page 15. We had quite inno­
cently exported it to Europe on American root stocks and then re-
imported it into California on the European cuttings.
Still another plague showed up at Anaheim, south of Los Angeles,
where a group of vintners of German background had founded a vine­
yard colony. In 1884 when the mysterious disease struck, the colony had
extensive vineyards and eight wineries which were producing over a
million gallons of fine quality wine annually. This ailment which has
since become known as the Anaheim disease destroyed every vine in the
short space of three years, and the vineyards of Anaheim have never
been replanted.
In order to learn the cause and find the remedy for these blights, the
California State Board of Viticultural Commissioners was set up in 1880.
This agency not only helped to conquer the plant diseases but also did
much to improve wine quality and production practices. It also spon­
sored an experimental station for grape growing and wine production
under the auspices of the College of Agriculture of the University of
California. This station, located today at Davis, California, has continued
its research work and the teaching of viticulture and viniculture. It is
considered one of the leading research establishments in its field and is
visited by students and scientists from all the wine regions in the world.
These were plagues visited upon the vineyards by Mother Nature but
they were as nothing compared to the man-made blight which befell
the vines as a result of the 19th or Prohibition Amendment to the U. S.
Constitution which came into force on January 1, 1919.
 CALIFORNIA WINES 153
Thousands upon thousands of acres of vineyards that had been labor­
iously planted to fine wine producing varieties, unsuited for any other
uses, had to be uprooted and replanted with other crops. This period
lasted fifteen years. In 1934, after Repeal, the whole process had to be
reversed and the vineyards replanted anew with wine producing varieties.
Since it takes time for new vines to come into production, and the
immediate post-repeal demand far exceeded supply, many of the wines
produced and shipped from California were of necessity of indifferent
quality. However, all this has long since changed. In ever increasing
number and quantity fine wines of outstanding quality are being pro­
duced, and it is generally accepted that present day wines are on the
whole superior to those California produced prior to 1919 . . . and that
some of her premium wines are finer than anything available in the "old
days". This is due in great part to the efforts made by the wine producers
themselves, to the severe regulations governing standards of quality that
have been adopted, and finally to the discriminating taste of the con­
suming public, which, in the last analysis, is the only effective arbiter in
questions of quality.

GEOGRAPHY
In California, the climate, soil and general condition of almost every
viticultural region in the world can be duplicated, for the seven hundred
miles of vineyard extend over mountain slopes, irrigated deserts, lush
inland valley floors, and the moist plains of the coast. Naturally, the
vintner has no difficulty in obtaining a Claret from the Cabernet grape,
when he grows it in one of the northern coastal counties.
Every important European grape variety, indeed, can be grown suc­
cessfully in California by grafting it on the hardy, phylloxera-resisting
native root stocks, and every European type has its California prototype.
Viticulturally, California is composed of three great regions: First, the
North and Central Coastal counties grouped around the San Francisco
Bay area; secondly, the Great Central Valley, and finally the Southern
California area.
In the equable climate of the northern and central coastal counties are
produced the best table wines. Lying between Napa and Sonoma counties
is one of the most beautiful valleys in California—the Valley of the Moon.
Jack London was a great lover of this locality and many of his stories
are centered around it.
The grape and the plum are the two biggest crops, but the valley is
rich in everything that California sunshine can grow. It is not artificially
irrigated and the best natural wines come from this section.
The Napa Valley vineyard district produces wines which are well-
154 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

balanced, not too heavy. The reds resemble Bordeaux rather than Bur­
gundy, the whites are finer than the Sonoma wines. The grapes grow on
the valley bottom and on the lower slopes of the hills, averaging a yield
of one and one-half to three tons of grapes per acre.
The Sonoma Valley, forty to seventy miles north of San Francisco,
produces full-bodied and sturdy red wines, and somewhat corse white
wines.
The Livermore Valley, east of San Francisco, in the arid hills, has a
gravelly soil like that of the Graves district in France. Its red wines are
soft and mature early, while the white wines are much superior, being
full and very fine. Here, the older growers follow French methods of
cultivation. Fermentation of the finer growths is carefully watched, sepa­
ration of the vintages is practiced, and the wine is allowed to develop
and mature in accordance with its natural intrinsic worth rather than
according to a fixed commercial standard.
In the foothills and on the lower slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains,
thirty to seventy miles south of San Francisco, grapes are grown from
which a fine quality wine is made, as well as in the hills overlooking
Santa Clara Valley.
The counties of the great central valley—Sacramento, San Joaquin,
Merced, Fresno, Madera, Tulare, Kings and Kern—are hot, must be
irrigated, and are more suited for producing the vast quantities of sweet
dessert wines the market requires.
Los Angeles, San Bernardino and Riverside counties form a region
known as the Cucamonga district, which, together with the southern
coastal county of San Diego—the Escondido district—make up the third
section. The latter two districts, in which the soils, climate and altitudes
at which the vineyards are located differ from those of the central valley,
produce some unusual table wines in addition to the larger quantities of
dessert wines for which they are best known. Here they require very
little, if any, irrigation.
California may be farther sub-divided into the following ten districts:
Sonoma—Mendocina—Directly north of San Francisco. It grows all
types, but here are obtained primarily red and white table wines and
champagnes.
Napa Valley—Solano County—North of San Francisco. Best known for
its fine red and white table wines, although dessert wines are produced.
Livermore—Contra Costa—Just east of San Francisco. Livermore Valley
is famous for its white table wines, especially Sauterne, but good red
table wines are produced, as well as dessert wines.
Santa Clara—San Benito—Santa Cruz—Just south of San Francisco.
White and red table wines and dessert wines.
 CALIFORNIA WINES 155

Wine

Regions

Of
California

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

156 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Lodi—Sacramento—The northern section of the great central valley.

Best known for its dessert wines, but also grows table wines.
Escalon—Modesto—Central portion of the central valley. Primarily a
producer of dessert wines, but table wines as well.
Fresno—San Joaquin Valley—The southern part of the great valley.
Here are produced most of California's dessert wines. Some table wine
and champagne is also produced.
Southern California embraces three distinct districts, namely, Cuca-
monga—Ontario, east of Los Angeles County, the second district, and the
San Diego—Escondido district. All are primarily dessert wine producers,
but table wines and champagne are also made in the region.
California is producing an ever increasing number of fine premium
wines which are bottled and marketed as vintage wines. But, as is to be
expected, the quantity is not large in relation to the total amount of
wine sold.
Whereas in most other wine producing countries, discussed in the
foregoing chapters, each region or district is devoted to the production
of only one wine type, or at most two, in California not only are most
wine types produced in each district but often the wines produced in
one district are blended with those of one or several other districts. As a
result, great continuity and uniformity of quality can be obtained, even
though in attaining this objective the individuality of vintage variations
is sacrificed. This is the answer to why California wines do not bear
vintage dates, as a general rule. A vintage date has no reason to be of
interest unless one vintage is very much different from another. Of course,
there is also the factor of more uniform weather conditions in all of
California than is the case, for example, in any given wine region in
Europe.

GRAPE VARIETIES

The principal grape varieties employed to produce the various types of

wine in California are the following:

To Produce Red Wines

Aleatico Gamay Petite Sirah
Alicante Bouschet Grenache Refosco
Aramon Grignolino St. Macaire
Barbera Gros Manzenc Sangioveto
Beclan Malvoisie Tannat
Cabernet Sauvignon Mataro Valdepenas
Carignane Mondeuse Verdot
Charbono Mourestel Zinfandel
Duriff Pinot noir
 CALIFORNIA WINES 157
To Produce White Wines
Burger Kleinberger Pinot blanc
Chasselas doré Marsanne Pinot Chardonnay
(golden Chasselas) Malvasia bianca Rieslings—
Clairette blanche Moscato Canelli Franken Riesling
Folle blanche Muscadelle du Bordalais Grey Riesling
Green Hungarian Muscat Frontignan Johannesberger
Gutedel Palomino Riesling

Sauvignon blanc
Sauvignon vert
Semillon
Sylvaner
Traminer
Ugni blanc (Trebbiano)
Vernaccia Sarda
Pedro Ximenez

To Produce Dessert Wines

Aleatico Grenache Muscat of St. Laurent
Alicante Bouschet Grillo Orange Muscat
Alicante Ganzin Inzolia bianca Pagadebito
Black Prince Malaga Palomino
Boal di Madeira Malmsey Petite Bouschet
Burger Malvasia bianca Petite Sirah
Cinsaut Mission Salvador
Carignane Mourisco preto Sauvignon vert
Erbalus di Caluso Muscadelle Thompson
Feher Szagos Muscat of Alexandria Tinta Madeira
Flame Tokay " " Canelli Trousseau
Grand noir "......" Hamburg Valdepenas
Green Hungarian " " Frontignan Verdelho
Zinfandel

MAKING OF THE WINE

The method of making wine in California depends to some extent upon

the size of the vineyard. The smaller vineyards follow the old world
method from gathering of the grapes to the bottling of the wine. In the
tiny vineyards of Europe only one type of wine is produced, not only in
a single vineyard, but in an entire region. There the vintner is a small
farmer, making, in some instances, only a few hogsheads of wine.
However, in California, where individual vineyards run to thousands
of acres, and in many cases produce several types and classes of wines,
158 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

wine making is on a mass-production basis. Where the vineyards are ex­

tensive and enormous quantities of grapes ripen at the same time, it
becomes humanly impossible to follow the rather simple old world
methods. The grapes are brought to the winery after being examined
and weighed, and are dumped into conveyor belts which carry them to a
power-driven crusher. This squeezes out the juice without breaking the
seeds, and then separates and throws out the stems.
In the making of red wines, the grapes and juice are conveyed directly
to the fermenting vats; while in the making of white wine, as in Europe,
the juice is separated from the skins before fermentation.
T o assure a normal fermentation, as some of the saccharomycetes may
have brushed off in transit, the natural yeasts are-assisted by the addition
of pure culture yeasts—saccharomycetes ellipsoideus. Temperature is con­
trolled and the fermenting must is never permitted to go over 85° F., in
order to obtain a healthy fermentation. Also, higher temperatures, aside
from causing imperfect fermentation, contribute to loss of bouquet and
facilitate the action and development of the mycodermae asceti, the
vinegar producing bacteria.
The first, or violent fermentation takes about a week, after which the
still fermenting must is run off into closed oak or California redwood
vats to complete fermentation. In some California wineries, cement or
concrete fermenting tanks are employed. This final fermentation period
takes from three to six weeks for both red and white wines.
However, in the production of dessert wines such as Sherry, Port, Mus­
catel, Angelica, etc., fermentation is arrested before all of the natural
sugar of the must has been converted. The alcoholic content is brought
up to 19.5 to 20% by the addition of California brandy, that in many
cases is distilled by the brandy distillery associated with the winery itself.
The wines are aged in large vats or casks and are treated in the same
manner as are similar wines all over the world. They are racked period­
ically so that the wine will not remain on its lees, and then fined and
filtered as necessary.
California Sherry is obtained by a special treatment or method which
was developed in California. When fermentation is arrested in the new
wine, it is not cellared in the same manner as other dessert wines. In order
to impart the characteristic Sherry flavor it is stored at a high temperature,
i.e., it is "baked". This is done by racking the wine into large oak or red­
wood casks or vats, which sometimes hold 20,000 to 30,000 gallons each,
located in cellars where carefully controlled temperatures are maintained.
The wine is kept in these baking cellars anywhere from three months to a
year, at temperatures that will vary from 100° to 140° Fahrenheit, de­
pending upon the length of time the wine is baked. Naturally, wine kept
 CALIFORNIA WINES 159
for only three months will be held at a higher temperature and vice
versa. Each producer has his own formula for the method that gives the
best results. The vats are heated, in some cases by hot water coils in the
vat itself, while in other cases the entire cellar room is heated to the
desired controlled temperature. In some instances producers obtain like
results by the use of smaller cooperage and letting the sun do the baking,
through leaving the casks in the open.
The baking process caramelizes the residual sugars, causes the color to
deepen somewhat, gives the wine the desired slightly bitter tang and
develops the typical "nutty" flavor of California Sherries.
Upon completion of the baking process the wine is allowed to cool
slowly to cellar temperature. It is then stored for ageing and treated like
other dessert wines to acquire mellowness and to be blended with older
wines, and eventually be bottled and marketed.
The essential difference in the method of producing this type of wine
between California and the Jerez region of Spain lies in the secondary
"flowering" fermentation described on page 109, which occurs in Jerez.
It is interesting to note that some California producers have wineries that
have had considerable success with "flowering," using film yeast that has
given them some unusually fine rancio or nutty flavored Sherries. How­
ever, it is apparent that the American public still prefers the traditional
"California" type, although with time it could very well be that it will
learn to like film yeast Sherries.
Vermouth and the other "aromatized" appetizer wines of California
are produced according to the traditional methods described in Chap­
ter 12.
Champagne and the other sparkling wines are produced in California
along the lines explained in the previous chapter on American Wines.
Generally speaking, it should be noted that at the large mass produc­
tion wineries, the most modern and improved methods of treatment of
the standard wines are in use, such as pasteurization and refrigeration,
to insure a perfectly bright natural wine . . . a healthy wine, free from
heavy sediment.
It must be remembered that wine, table wine in particular, is never
standing still. It is constantly developing; minute changes are taking
place. This is due to the action of the yeasts that remain in the wine,
to the acids, the solids and the other components of the wine acting and
reacting, some with, and others against each other. The result is a state
of continual change. One of the natural phenomena of the development
of a wine is the crystalization of the bitartrates, which settle in the form
of sediment. In the cask, this sediment forms the lees, while in the bottle
it forms either a loose sediment or a firm crust. This can be hastened if
160 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the wine is held at a low temperature for a short period of time. It is

accomplished through refrigeration and insures a wine that after filtering
will be less likely to throw any further sediment or deposit, and therefore
less subject to damage from sharp changes of temperature after bottling.
Pasteurization not only fulfills the foregoing objective but also assures
no further action from the yeast, as the high temperature, which is part
of the pasteurization process, renders any remaining yeast in the wine
inert.
These procedures definitely assure wines that can be shipped safely,
that will remain brilliant and will not become "unsaleable" because of
sedimentation. These protective measures are employed in the production
of the standard wines. As a general rule they are not used in the making
of the premium or fancy qualities.
But since the consuming public has become accustomed to seeing so
much brilliant, sediment-free wine offered, it has come to believe that a
wine that has a very natural sediment or deposit is a wine that is not in
good condition for serving, and by the same token, too many retail mer­
chants, rather than explain the facts to their customers, take the easier
path and claim against the supplier for refund or replacement of the
"unsaleable" wine.

CLASSES AND TYPES OF WINES *

California is so rich in variety of natural soils and climates that any

European wine regionfindsits counterpart there, and almost every known
species of European grape (vitis vinifera) may be found; consequently
every European wine has its California prototype. The classes and types
of California wines have been established by the Wine Institute and the
Wine Advisory Board, (both of California), as follows:
* Explanatory Note. Lest the reader be confused by what appears to be a direct
contradiction to the classification of wines., which appears o n page 6 in Chapter 2 on
Definitions, I wish to point out that the classifications given above are those adopted
and advocated by the W i n e Institute. T h e y are included here because they rightfully
form part of the California story.
I should also explain at this point that the term "fortified", which has long been
and is still used throughout the English-speaking world to describe wines that have
brandy added to them for the purpose of arresting fermentation, or simply to increase
the alcoholic content above that at which wines will normally ferment out, cannot
legally be used in the United States, a rule in effect since 1939, when Regulations N o .
4 relating to Labeling and Advertising of W i n e (U.S. Treasury Department, Bureau of
Internal Revenue, Alcohol and Tobacco T a x Division) were adopted, and which in­
clude the statement that no advertisment for wine, label, wrapper, container, etc., can
contain: "Any statement, design, device, or representation which relates to alcoholic
content, or which tends to create the impression that the wine has been 'fortified'".
T h e reasons for this were several. It was found, in the first years after Repeal, that
a fringe element of the trade, dealers who through ignorance or lack of ethics were
promoting or rather exploiting the sale of these wines on the basis of their alcoholic
content rather than the basic quality of the wine itself. Also, to Americans during the
Prohibition era the word had the connotation of "spiked", and, as a matter of fact, the
"spiked beer" of that period was labeled "Fortified".
 CALIFORNIA WINES l6l

California wines are divided into five main classes. Appetizer Wines,
White Table Wines, Red Table Wines, Sweet Dessert Wines and Spark­
ling Wines. Under these classifications here are listed the types of wines
most frequently offered for sale by the various producers:

Appetizer Wine
SHERRY VERMOUTH Madeira Marsala

Red Table Wines

CLARET Cabernet Duriff Petite Sirah
BURGUNDY Carignane Gamay Pinot noir
Barbera Charbono Grignolino Rose
Barberone Chianti Mourestel Zinfandel
Aleatico

White Table Wines

RHINE WINE Folle blanche Pinot blanc
SAUTERNE Golden Chasselas Riesling
Dry Sauterne Gutedel Sauvignon blanc
Sweet Sauterne Hock Semillon
Haut Sauterne Light Muscat Sylvaner
Chateau Sauterne Malvasia bianca Traminer
Chablis Moscato Canelli Ugni blanc
Chardonnay Moselle White Chianti

Sweet Dessert Wines

PORT Angelica Muscat Frontignan
MUSCATEL Aleatico Red Muscatel
TOKAY Malaga Sweet Sherry
WHITE PORT Malvasia Sweet Vermouth

Sparkling Wines
CHAMPAGNE Sparkling Sauterne Moscato Spumante
SPARKLING Sparking Moselle Sparkling
BURGUNDY Sparkling Muscat Moscato Canelli
Pink Champagne
(The 12 most popular distinct types are in capital letters)

Of the wine types listed, some have generic names and others have
varietal names, that is, they take their name from the grape variety from
which the wine was produced. For example, Burgundy, Claret, Rhine
162 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Modern tractor cultivation near Orosi, California. (Photo—Wine Institute)

wine, Sauterne, Sherry, etc., take their names from the names of those
wines from Europe which they resemble, whereas Barbera, Cabernet,
Riesling, Zinfandel, etc., take their names from the informing grape.
Under California regulations a wine bearing a varietal name on the label
must be produced from at least 5 1 % of the named variety and in many
cases it will be made from 1 0 0 % of the type of grape used.

CLASSES OF CALIFORNIA WINES

Formerly, California wines were classified as dry, sweet or sparkling.
"Dry" wines were table wines containing less than 1 4 % of alcohol;
"sweet" wines were the wines containing up to 2 0 / 2 1 % of alcohol, irre­
spective of whether the wine itself had a dry or a sweet taste. Since this
led to considerable confusion in the minds of the retail trade and the
public, it was found desirable and practical to adopt a uniform classifica­
tion that would be easily understood by everybody and especially by the
consumer of wines.
A committee of the producers under the auspices of Wine Institute pro­
posed the five classes, prevously mentioned,—Appetizer Wines, White
Table Wines, Red Table Wines, Sweet Dessert Wines and Sparkling
Wines.
Appetizer Wines are those which, as the class name implies, are pop­
ularly used before meals as appetite sharpeners, such as Sherry (more
often the drier types), Vermouth or apéritif wines.
California Sherry is a wine that varies in color from rather pale, in the
case of very dry wines produced by the "film-yeast" method, progressing
through pale amber, to a very dark amber in the rich sweet wines. It is
characterized by its nutty flavor.
California Madeira and Marsala are wines that resemble the sweeter
sherries. They are produced in a like manner and bear these labels for
commercial reasons. California Marsala is generally the sweeter of the two.
 CALIFORNIA WINES 163

California Vermouth is not marketed just as California Vermouth, but

rather as the distinctive product of the brand owner who produces it.
This is due to the fact that the aromatizing formula used by each pro­
ducer is his very distinctive secret upon which he capitalizes. Both the
dry straw-colored (French type) and sweet dark amber (Italian type) are
produced and successfully marketed in ever increasing volume.
White Table Wines as the class name implies, are the light white
beverage wines whose alcoholic content can be as low as 10%, does not
exceed 14%, but will average about 1214%. It is well to remember that
while described as "white", there is no wine that is colorless. White wines
vary from a very pale straw to a very dark brown. In taste they vary from
the extreme bone dryness of Chablis and Rhine wine types, to the rich
lusciousness of the Château-type Sauterne.
California Sauterne (please note spelling without final "s"), is usually
a light, golden full-bodied wine with a pleasantly dry taste. It is often
labelled "Dry Sauterne".
California Sweet Sauterne, Haut Sauterne or Chateau Sauterne is a
fuller, quite sweet wine. Both the "dry" and "sweet" Sauterne of Cali­
fornia are often produced from the traditional Sauvignon blanc, Semillon
and Muscadelle grape varieties, but at many vineyards a wide assortment
of the other white grape varieties listed on page 157 are used as well.
Where the foregoing varieties are employed, the resulting wine is rich in
fragrant bouquet.
California Sauvignon blanc, Semillon are Sauterne type wines, varietally
named because at least 51% of the grapes used in production are of the
variety stipulated. Such wines possess the distinctive character which
these grape varieties contribute to the perfume and flavor of the wine.
California Riesling is generally a thoroughly dry, tart wine, with a
pale straw color and the delicate fragrance of one of the riesling grape
varieties.
California Rhine Wine, Hock or Moselle is a light, dry, pale colored
wine resembling the Riesling, but obtained from other varieties whose
characteristics are similar.
California Chablis is a delicate straw-colored wine, slightly less tart
and with more body than the Rhine wine type. It is generally made from
the French grape varieties, principally the Pinot blanc and the Chardon-
nay, but Buerger, Golden Chasselas, Green Hungarian and several other
varieties are also used to produce Chablis.
California White Chianti is a somewhat dry, medium-bodied, fruity
wine usually made from the Trebbiano and one of the muscat-flavored
grapes. It is bottled in the traditional straw-covered Chianti bottle.
California Folle blanche, Pinot blanc, Chardonnay, Ugni blanc are
164 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

wines of the Chablis type that are varietally named for the grapes from
which they are made and possess their distinct characteristics. The Ugni
blanc is also known as the Trebbiano.
California Light Muscat, as the name implies, is a wine made from
one of the various muscat varieties. They vary from very dry to very
sweet, but all have the pronounced unmistakable muscat aroma. They
are sometimes labelled with the exact varietal name of the grape from
which they are produced, such as Moscato Canelli, Muscat Frontignan,
etc.
Red Table Wines, like the white, are those whose alcoholic content
does not exceed 1 4 % but which generally have about 12-121/2%. It is
well to remember also at this point that any wine which contains any red
coloring whatsoever, which is obtained from the grape skins that are
allowed to remain in contact with the must during fermentation, is
classified as a red wine. There are only two colors in wine—white and
red—and red wines vary in color from the very pale pink-hued roses to
the very deep, inky reds of some Barberas.
California Claret and California Burgundy are the two best-known red
wines and enjoy great popularity in the market. They are bottled in the
traditional Bordeaux and Burgundy bottle, illustrated among the Bottle
Sketches on page 7 . Claret is a dry, rich red, medium-bodied wine while
Burgundy has a deeper, more ruby color, more body and flavor.
California Chianti is a dry medium-bodied deep red and well-flavored
wine of Italian character. On the whole I have found these wines to be
softer, rounder and less corse than the Italian originals. This wine is
usually marketed in the typical straw-covered Chianti bottle.
California Cabernet is a Claret type wine produced primarily from the
Cabernet grape and having its distinctive taste and aroma.
California Zinfandel is a distinctly California wine of the Claret type.
It is made from and possesses the distinctive fruity flavor and aroma of
the Zinfandel grape.
California Barbera and Barberone are rather full bodied wines, very
deeply colored and having the distinct taste and aroma of the Barbera
grape. Barberone, meaning literally "small Barbera" is a wine made with
a lesser proportion of Barbera grapes.
California Carignane, Grignolino, Mourestel are Claret-type wines that
have been made from and have the distinct taste and aroma of these
grapes.
California Charbono, Duriff, Gamay, Pinot noir, Petite Sirah are Bur­
gundy-type wines made from and having the characteristic flavor and
bouquet of the grapes named. The Charbono is a very full-bodied wine
like a Barbera.
 CALIFORNIA WINES 165

California Aleatico is a medium-sweet table wine having the fruity

muscat perfume and flavor of the Aleatico grape.
California Rose is a rather dry, light-bodied wine, lightly colored pink
to pale reddish, made pink by removing the skins from the fermenting
must before they can impart all their coloring matter to the wine, usually
24 to 48 hours after the first fermentation begins, depending upon the
amount of coloring desired in the wine. The Gamay, Grenache and Gri-
gnolino are the grape varieties usually preferred for making Roses. These
wines have become very popular. They are always served chilled and are
delightful, refreshing luncheon and summer wines.
California Dessert Wines include all the rich, sweet full-bodied wines,
which were formerly known in the trade as "sweet" wines. Their alcoholic
content is usually 20%, although for certain markets these wines are
sometimes made with a lower alcoholic content. They range in taste from
medium to very sweet, and include both white and red wines.
California Sherry is rich and sweet in taste, and very properly belongs
among the Dessert Wines.
California Port is rightfully one of the more popular Dessert Wines.
Its color will vary from deep red to tawny, and some White Port is also
made. The Red Ports are made from a number of grape varieties well
known for their high pigmentation, such as the Carignane, Trousseau,
Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, to name a few, while the Tawny Ports are pro­
duced from grapes that are not so rich in color. White Port is generally
obtained from the same grape varieties but the must is fermented with­
out the grape skins. All California Port is very sweet in taste, having
anywhere from 10 to 15% of unfermented natural grape sugar in it.
California Muscatel is a rich, sweet white wine possessing the tangy
highly perfumed aroma and flavor of any one of the seven or eight muscat
varieties cultivated in California. Most Muscatel is a golden color and is
obtained primarily from the Muscat of Alexandria variety. Muscat Canelli
or Moscato Canelli, Muscat Frontignan are Muscatel obtained from the
grape varieties named. Red Muscatel and Black Muscatel are obtained
from the Muscat St. Laurent and Muscat Hamburg grapes respectively,
and Aleatico is a red Muscatel also.
California Tokay is an amber colored blend of sweet wines, with a
slight "nutty" flavor obtained from the Sherry included in the blend.
California Tokay should not be confused with the Tokay of Hungary.
The only connection is in the name, as it does not resemble it in any
way. Nor does the wine get its name from the Flame Tokay grape, which
may or may not be used in the production of California Tokay. Insofar
as taste is concerned, it is sweeter than most Sherry but never as sweet
as Port or Muscatel.
166 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

California Angelica is, like the Tokay, a blend of several California

dessert wines, but always on the very sweet side, having from 10 to 15%
unfermented sugar. It is a light-colored wine, ranging from a straw to
medium amber. This wine was originated in California.
California Malaga is a deep or very dark amber colored cordial-like
wine, obtained in the same manner as Angelica.
California Sparkling Wines include Champagne, Pink Champagne,
Sparkling Burgundy, Sparkling Moscato, Sparkling Moselle, etc. They
are produced by the traditional French bottle-fermentation method and
by the modern Charmat process, i.e., bulk fermentation method.
California Champagne is a pale straw to light gold color. In order to
satisfy all tastes, the wines are marketed in varying degrees of sweetness,
following French champagne labelling practices, namely,—brut, extra
dry, dry and sweet. Often the French equivalents are used on the label.
California Champagne is made from a number of grape varieties such as
the Pinot noir, Pinot blanc, Chardonnay, Folle blanche, Saint Emilion,
Sauvignon vert, Burger, etc.
California Pink Champagne is a light pink in color. It is produced in
the same manner as California Champagne except that it is made with
pink or rose wine.
California Sparkling Burgundy is a sparkling wine produced in the
same way as California Champagne with red wine instead of white wine.
It is usually semi-sweet or sweet in taste.
California Sparkling Moselle, Sauterne, Muscat, etc., as the names
imply, are sparkling wines made from the white table wines indicated.
Carbonated Wines are sparkling wines that are made effervescent by
artificial carbonation, and are somewhat less expensive than naturally
sparkling wines. Both white and red wines are used, and dry and sweet
wines are offered.

BRANDY
In every country of the world where wine is produced, brandy is dis­
tilled and California is no exception. Further, as is to be expected,
brandies have been distilled from a wide variety of wines and by various
methods. In other words, in the few years since Repeal, and they are
very few in relation to brandy, no definitive criteria has yet been estab­
lished as to the grape variety or wines best suited for the production of
brandy, nor the ideal distillation method, either. However, progress has
been made and it will not be very long before these questions will be
answered to the satisfaction of the consumer.
In the meantime, the American public is buying more and more Cali-
 CALIFORNIA WINES 167

fornia Brandy which can only mean that it is finding the product more
appealing and satisfying to its taste.
California produces three basic types of brandy marketed as such be­
sides the brandies that are distilled for, and are used to produce dessert
wines, vermouths, etc. These are:
California Brandy. A brandy produced and treated in somewhat the
same manner as is described in Chapter 18 on Brandies, where I speak of
the traditional methods followed in France.
The brandies are distilled out at between 140° and 170° Proof; reduced
0
to about 100 Proof, for barreling; and aged for some years before bot­
tling and being offered for sale. They are matured in oak barrels.
Generally speaking, the beverage Brandy of California has a very clean
bouquet and taste. It has a character of its own and some unusual brandy
of excellent quality is available in limited quantities.
California Muscat Brandy is brandy distilled from muscat wines, which
has the marked bouquet and flavor of the muscat. California is one of the
world's largest producers of quality Muscat Brandy.
California Grappa or Pomace Brandy is brandy distilled from the grape
pomace, remaining after the juice is expressed for making wine. Follow­
ing the Italian custom, Grappa is not aged very long, if at all, and
normally has very little color, usually being marketed as a white or color­
less product.

THE POST REPEAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE WINE INDUSTRY

IN THE UNITED STATES
Prior to 1919 the California and American Wine Industry was making
slow but steady progress. Whereas in 1900 the record shows 30,100,000
gallons of wine were consumed in the United States, by 1919 consump­
tion reached 55,000,000 gallons (12% of which was imported wine),
according to Report No. 134, Second Series, of the United States Tariff
Commission. Based on a population of slightly over 100,000,000, this was
a per capita consumption of .54 gallons.
Since Repeal in 1933, wine has made steady healthy progress, showing
a continually increasing per capita consumption figure which, when
multiplied by the ever larger population, is translated into very respect­
able gallonage reports.
All of this is due to several factors. One is that the public is taking
a greater interest in wine, possibly in answer to the wealth of advertising
which has appeared in the press, radio and television. Another is the
opportunity which so many of our citizens in the armed forces had during
their foreign service to sample wine, and more important perhaps, to
observe peoples in other lands who use wine as a regular part of their
168 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

California winery views. (Left) Unloading grapes at winery to be weighed and pressed.
(Right) Fermenting vats of must. (Photos'—Wine Institute—Moulin)

diet. Following the example of the French, Italian and other wine drink­
ing peoples, they too learned to enjoy a glass of wine with their meals,
and continued to follow this custom after they returned to their homes.
Still another reason, of a similar nature, is the great increase in travel
abroad during the post-war years. The Administrator of one of the
Monopoly State operations told me that he can tell when summer tourists
have returned, by the number of "special orders" that flood his office for
some particular wine or spirit that the citizens of his State have tasted
and liked while on their trip.
Wine Institute, like so many other trade associations formed during
the N.R.A. days, has developed into a very efficient instrument of the
industry. Under the able leadership of its management, distribution and
merchandising have been organized on an intelligent and effective basis.
Practically all California producers are united within Wine Institute as
members, and, as a result, subscribe to the self-regulation that has pro­
duced such excellent results. Wine Institute has also succeeded in obtain­
ing much of the favorable wine legislation which has been passed in the
several States.

(Left) Specially trained vintner-chemists (oenologists) constantly check the wine to see
that nature does her work properly. (Photo—Wine Institute). (Right) Loading the
special glass-lined tank cars in which wines are shipped to various parts of the country
for local bottling. Both compartment and cylinder tank cars are used. (Photo—Wine
Institute—Piggott)
 CALIFORNIA WINES 169

Under the Federal Agricultural Adjustment Act of 1933 various States

were permitted to pass legislation setting up organizations for the orderly
marketing of agricultural products. In 1937 the California legislature
enacted the California Marketing Act which permitted the establishment
of the Wine Advisory Board, for the purpose of advertising and promot­
ing the marketing of wine. Under this Act the funds for the maintainance
of the Wine Advisory Board and its programs are obtained by a special
fixed gallonage tax on all wine produced in California. Through this tax
substantial sums have been made available to the Wine Advisory Board
through the years, with which it conducts an aggressive advertising
campaign in favor of California wine, maintains field offices and staffs
throughout the country and conducts an educational program to train
all those actively engaged in the marketing of wine to the trade and the
public. A free correspondence Wine Study Course was started several
years ago to which over 160,000 students have enrolled and more than
35,000 Certificates of Merit have gone out to students who have completed
the course satisfactorily. In addition, they have prepared for free distribu­
tion to the trade and public a series of hand-books on the uses of wine.
All of this type of work, with time, will produce beneficial results for
the entire Wine Trade. There are still many obstacles to overcome, not
the least of which is the high taxes levied at almost every step wine
makes, from the vineyard to the consumer's table.
We shall not think of light wine as a food until we can buy it in a
food store. The only way that naturally fermented wines should be used
is with food. It is possible to buy it in food stores in several of the States
but not in the most populous—New York and Pennsylvania—to name
two. As it is now, wine must either be retailed by specially franchised
outlets, which by law cannot engage in any other business, or, as in
Pennsylvania, by the State itself. This tends to make wine-drinking a
luxury.
If and when wine is classified as food and relieved of its present tax
burden so that it can be sold at much lower prices than is possible today,
I predict that we shall become a wine-drinking nation, with a yearly per
capita consumption many times the .90 gallon figure of the present time.
 16

Other Wines
WINES OF OTHER LANDS
LUXEMBURG

T H E PRINCIPALITY OF LUXEMBURG—999 square miles—is surrounded by

Belgium on the west and north, Germany on the east, and France on the
south, separated from the two last by the bed of the Moselle River.
The Upper Moselle portion of the German Moselle wine regions be­
gins at Wasserbillig, Luxemburg, so wines produced on the opposite bank
must be considered Moselle wines just as the German wines are.
Before the World War, Luxemburg wines were, for the most part, con­
sumed within the Duchy while young, and without benefit of bottling.
During the last two decades, however, an effort has been made to pro­
mote their sales outside the country.
Vinicultural methods are identical with those practiced on the German
side of the river. The informing grape is the Riesling, and the wines re­
semble those of the Upper Moselle in character, with the same light flow­
ery bouquet and prickly tang. They are bottled in the classical green glass
fluted bottle of the Moselle. Those I have tasted here are delightful and
to be recommended. They are Wormeldinger Riesling 1935 and Wasser­
billig 1935. They are available only in small quantities.

SWITZERLAND

The Rhine and Rhone rivers, which begin in Switzerland their long
journeys to the sea, form a sort of division in Swiss wine regions. While
we generally think of Rhine wines as white and Rhone wines as red, the
situation is reversed in Switzerland, as though the soil along the rivers
changed character beyond the Swiss border. For in Switzerland the wines
of the Rhine section are almost all red, while those of the Rhone are pre­
dominantly white, with one notable exception—Cortaillod.
In twenty of its twenty-two Cantons Switzerland produces wine, but it
is not enough for its own needs, and it is therefore necessary to import
large quantities of wine from Hungary, Italy, and France. The Swiss wine
does not travel well, but some is shipped to Helvetians abroad.
170
 OTHER WINES 171
The best of the Swiss wines are the white wines of Vaud, Vallais, and
Neuchâtel. Those made in the first two Cantons are from the Fendant
(Fendant de Sion, Fendant du Vallais, Fendant Vert, and Fendant Rouge
—the several varieties of this informing vine), while the white wines of
Neuchátel are made from the Chasselas. These wines are generally quite
pale in color and have the spritz or prickling sharpness of all semi-
petillant wines.
Cortaillod, the best red wine, also comes from Neuchátel. It is made
from the Petit Pinot and Pinot Gris of Burgundy, a pleasant, excellent
wine on the order of a Beaujolais, with body and fire.
Swiss wines are best when young and fresh and the ones mentioned
above are obtainable in the United States.

AUSTRIA
There have always been enough fresh, charming wines produced in
Austria to make life enjoyable for the gay Viennese, and to inspire Strauss
waltzes. However, the quantities have been limited and lack of knowledge
about the wines by those outside of Austria has caused many to overlook
some delightful wines.
Both red and white wines are made in Austria, generally from the Ries­
ling, Traminer, Chardonnet, and Veltliner grape varieties, the predomi­
nant characteristic of these wines being their fragrant freshness.
Although much wine is made in Austria, only the finer wines are ex­
ported. A few of these have been available on our market.
Among the white wines, the best known are the Anninger Perle, Gum-
poldskirchner, Pfaffstätter, Kremser, Hohenwarther, and the famous Klös-
terneuberger which comes from an old monastery vineyard on the Dan­
ube—while three of the most famous are Grinzing, Sievering and Nussdorf,
which are grown within the city limits of Vienna itself.
The best red wines are those which come from Vöslau and Baden.

CZECHOSLOVAKIA

As its status may be subject to change from time to time, it is simpler

to consider the viticulture of Czechoslovakia as it was before 1939.
The most important wine region is around Pressburg, Bratislava. Press-
burg, meaning "place or town of the wine press" in German, was known
for its wines as early as the thirteenth century. The wines, white for the
most part, are light and pleasant. They are obtained from the Dreiman-
ner, or Traminer, and the Oesterreicher or Sylvaner, and are consumed
in the country or in Austria.
172 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
Very little wine is produced in Bohemia today, though it was, in the
past, an important wine region. Both red and white wine is made. The
red wine is produced from Burgunder, Blaufrankisch, and Portugieser
grapes, and the white from the Pinot, Traminer, and Sylvaner.
At the eastern end of the country around Uzhorod (Ungvar), in what
was formerly Hungary and is now in the U.S.S.R., there are two komitats
or parishes, which border the Tokaj-Hegyalja. I was enchanted with the
beauty of this country when I saw it, surrounded by the Carpathian foot­
hills, with Hungary on one side, Soviet Russia a few miles to the east,
and Poland to the north.
A light but spirited white wine, which is delightful, is made in this
district, mostly from Riesling grapes.

RUSSIA
At one time Russia was an important wine-producing country and may
Still be, though information on the subject is not obtainable.
Prior to the first World War, Russia used to produce some 5 5 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0
gallons of wine annually. We know that this quantity has been consider­
ably reduced, but we do not know the exact extent.
The principal wine regions are in the Crimea and Caucasus, although
some wine is produced in Georgia, around the Black Sea at Baku, Batum,
Transcaucasia, Turkestan, Bokara, and Samarkand.
The light red and white Crimean and Caucasian table wines obtained
from the Pinot and Riesling grape were shipped here shortly after Re­
peal, as was the sweetish "Caucasian Champagne," but I have not seen
any for several years.

THE BALKANS
Although wine in abundance is produced in all the Balkan countries
little, if any, of it is exported, either because it is not of competitive qual­
ity or because it is all consumed at home. The Balkans include Albania,
Bulgaria, Yugoslavia, and Rumania. Greece, while also a Balkan nation,
will be discussed separately.
Except for the Bosnia-Herzegovina section of Yugoslavia, where a few
wines are made from the Riesling, Sauvignon, Semillon Sylvania, Caber­
net, and Pinot, most of the wines produced in the first three countries
named above, are rough, coarse wines made from indigenous grapes.
Rumania is the most important wine-producing country of this group,
particularly since World War I, when she acquired Bessarabia from
Russia and Transylvania at the expense of Hungary. Considerable quan-
 OTHER WINES 173
tities of wine are made, the best being produced in the regions of Erdely
and Menes-Magyarad, in Transylvania, which accounts for the Hungarian
names. Most of the wine is white and obtained from the Riesling, Leanyka,
and Furmint, which is known by its Rumanian name of Som. Some red
wine is made from the Kadarka vine, the most famous being Menesi
Rozsa (Rose of Menes), a deep-colored wine with a full, fruity bouquet
and body. Like the Hungarian red wines, it is a little rough when young,
but mellows with age.
Much sweetish sparkling wine of a sort is made, but to the best of my
knowledge it is appreciated only in Rumania. I tasted some several years
ago, when an effort was made to distribute this wine in the United States,
and found it to be passable, if too sweet, but far too expensive to compete
with better-quality wines.

HELLENIC WINES
The vine has been cultivated by the Greeks since time immemorial and
their efforts have been praised in prose and poetry by all the ancient
poets. "The Greeks had a word for it," and the word was "aromatics."
Apparently the natural flavor of the grape itself was too bland for their
sophisticated palate, so the wines were stored in amphorae (large jars)
pitched with tar.
This imparted a resinous flavor to the wine, and, as if this were not
enough, bags containing spices, such as peppers, cloves, and aromatic
gums, were suspended in the wine to insure its "preservation" and im­
proved flavor. Present-day Greeks still prefer a resinated to a natural
wine, a taste which must be acquired, as the harsh, pungent turpentine
bouquet and flavor shocks the unaccustomed palate. These wines are
available in the United States. They are labeled Retsina.
Of course, all Greek wine is not resinated. There are some dry light
red and white wines, particularly Morea and Demestica, and one par­
ticular sweet red wine from Patras, called Mavrodaphne, shipped to this
market.
The Greek islands of Chios, Crete, Corfu, Cyclades (Santorin), Samos,
Thasos, Cos, Mitylene (Lesbos), and Cyprus (held by England but still a
Greek island, viticulturally speaking), all produce wine today, though
their product does not enjoy the majestic reputation it had when the
Hellenese were masters of the known world.
Everyone in Greece drinks wine, and most of the cultivated area is de­
voted to vineyards, although the climate is not suitable for the produc­
tion of the best grapes for wine making. Most of the Greek islands are
volcanic in origin and the wines have a characteristic fiery hotness. The
ancient Greeks—as those of today—preferred rich, sweet wines.
174 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The grape varieties cultivated are those which have grown there for
ages. The most famous of these is the Malvasia, which originated in the
region of Monemvasia, a small town in the Peloponnesian peninsula, and
is grown today in almost every wine region of the world, but most notably
in Crete and Madeira—where it produces Malmsey.
The Muscat is grown generally, and most successfully on the island of
Samos. Muscat of Samos, a favorite of Lord Byron, may be obtained in
the United States. The origin of the Muscat is attributed to Samos, but I
cannot vouch for this. It is a pleasant, sweet, fortified wine.
The Sultana grape is another native of Greece which produces sweet
liqueur wines.
The most popular and widely distributed Greek wine today is the Mav-
rodaphne, which is obtained from the grape of the same name. This
grape was discovered about a century ago by a viticulturist named Gus-
tave Clauss. Because the berry reminded him of the laurel berry, he
named it "black laurel"—Mavrodaphne. The wine is sweet, red, and port­
like in character. It has an alcoholic content varying from151/2to 20 per
cent, depending on the quality of the must and the amount of brandy
used for fortifying.
Among the table wines, Marco, made about 20 miles from Athens, is a
good plain wine, and Tegea, a pink wine from Arcadia, has a pleasant,
clean flavor.

ISRAEL

The Bible informs us that the vine was cultivated in Judea in ancient
times and that natural, strong and mixed wines were in use, but it does
not tell us either the grape varieties or the names of these wines. With
the dispersion of the Jews and the conquest of the country by the Mo­
hammedans, viniculture all but disappeared. Except for a small amount
of wine made for religious purposes, none was made commercially in the
Holy Land for over 1500 years.
In the last fifty years, however, and particularly since the war, Palestine
has witnessed a vinicultural Renaissance. Due chiefly to Baron Edmond
de Rothschild, one of the owners of Chateaux Mouton-Rothschild and
Mouton d'Armailacq, a beginning was made toward the end of the last
century, and today there are many flourishing vineyards in the land
which, the Bible tells us, was a land of corn, oil, and wine.
The centers of viticulture are Zichron-Jacob, Nes-Ziona, Gedera, and,
most important of all, Rishon-le-Zion (meaning "First in Zion.")
As in Australia, South Africa, and our own California, grape varieties
from every famous European wine region are cultivated, all in the same
vineyard, each having its Palestinian prototype, which is more or less
 OTHER WINES 175
faithful to the original. So we have Palestinian Sauterne, Palestinian
Hock, Palestinian Port, ad infinitum. Let us hope that the day is not dis­
tant when the courageous pioneers who are rebuilding Israel into a
healthy modern State after its centuries of abandonment, will appreciate
the historic value of its ancient places, and give their names to its wines.
So far as I know, the only Palestinian wines in this country at present
are those from Rishon-le-Zion. They include Sauterne, Riesling, Claret,
Burgundy, Tokay, Sherry, and Port.

ASIA
Although wine has been produced in Turkey on the Dardanelles and on
Mount Lebanon for many centuries, it has always been a minor business.
In China, wine is supposed to have been "discovered" by I-Ty several
hundred years before the Christian era, and its use was subsequently pro­
hibited by a Chinese emperor who had the vines uprooted.
Iran (modern Persia), fountain of culture and civilization, is, according
to the Persians, the place where wine-making really originated. Persia has
given us much in philosophy, art, poetry, and one vine which has been
planted and has prospered in many wine regions of the world—the Shiraz
(Sirrah, Petite Sirah of California).
Shiraz and its wine must have been in the mind of Omar Khayyam,
when he wrote:

"I sometimes wonder what the vintner buys

One half so precious as the stuff he sells?"

In A Book of Other Wines, P. Morton Shand recounts the Persian ver­

sion of the discovery of wine. The Shah Djemsheed always had a dish of
grapes by his bedside, and one day, observing that some of the over-ripe
berries were fermented, ordered them to be thrown away, thinking them
to be poisonous. A discarded favorite from his harem seized the grapes
and drank the juice to put an end to her sorrows. This she did, but not
in the way she had expected. When the surprised Shah found her, mildly
intoxicated but far from melancholy, she revealed the delightful secret
of the grapes, thus not only starting the wine industry but restoring the
devotion of the Shah.
According to Shand, the principal native Persian vines are the peerless
Kishmish white grape of Ispahan, the red Damas, the Kishbaba (seedless),
the small and sweet Askeri, the Shahoni (royal grape) of Cashbin, the
Imperial of Tauris, and the luscious Samarkand.
The vintage of the Shiraz is in August, when the fresh must is placed in
large, glazed earthenware vases of 25 to 40 gallons capacity, which are
176 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
buried in the ground in cool cellars. When mature, it isfilteredand bot­
tled in long-necked flasks, covered with straw, called Carabas, holding
about21/2quarts. Both red and white Shiraz are made. It has a pungent,
spicy perfumed flavor.
Other wine regions of Persia are Ispahan, Tabriz, Yezd, and Teheran.

NORTH AFRICA
The Koran is specific about its prohibition of alcoholic beverages to
the Faithful, but the followers of Mohammed have always tended the
vine wherever it would grow because they like to eat grapes. Prior to the
French, Spanish, and Italian penetrations of North Africa, such wine as
was made was produced solely by the Jews for religious purposes. Today
in Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia, enormous vineyards produce vast
quantities of wine, most of which is used in France to supply the demand
for cheap wine for beverage purposes, and for the making of French
Vermouth and aperitif wines.
Of the three, Algeria is the most important, but North Africa may be
compared to California in the sense of tremendous vineyards and wineries
where mass production and the latest improvements of scientific vinicul­
ture are in vogue.
The chief vines cultivated are the varieties of the Midi—Carignane,
Clairette, Picpoul, Mour-vedre; while in the better soils and exposure
the best vines of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Jerez, and the Douro are also
grown.
The wines of North Africa are generally heady andfiery,with a tend­
ency to heaviness. They are sound, drinkable wines but not great, and
when used in France for beverage purposes, are generally blended with
the thin light wines of the Midi to which they give body and life.

SOUTH AFRICA
Only eight miles from Cape Town is Wijnberg (wine town), the first
vineyard planted under government supervision. Culture of the vine on
the Cape was undertaken by the Dutch as far back as 1653.
During thefirsthalf of the nineteenth century, Cape wines were popu­
lar in England, but their sale fell off almost to the vanishing point in
1914. After the war, however, Empire Wine, as it was known, grew more
popular, and today it forms a notable part of English wine imports.
The principal wine regions of the Union of South Africa are the fa­
mous Constantia, where a sweet red liqueur wine is made from the Mus­
cat de Frontignan; the Stellenbosch region on the eastern side of Table
Mountain; the Paarl district, the Tulbagh, the Worcester, Montagu, and
Robertson regions.
 OTHER WINES 177
Almost any grape variety will grow in South Africa and produce twice
as many grapes as in its home soil, but, by the same token, only half as
fine. The main grapes grown are the Riesling, Folle Blanche, Sirrah, Fur­
mint, Sauvignon, Pinot, Cabernet, and Pedro Ximenez.
The South African vintners make the same type wines produced in
Europe and ship them to England where they are sold as Empire Claret,
Empire Burgundy, and so forth, marking them as poor imitations of
better originals. This short-sighted policy, too generally adopted by non-
European wine growers as a line of least resistance, builds nothing solid
for the future.
The South African wines are generally sold young and have no chance
to mature; consequently those I have tasted were rough. Possibly if they
had been older they would have been improved. They are wines with
character and full body.

AUSTRALIA

The vine has been cultivated and wine made in Australia for over a
century, but the Down-unders have not been too careful in the selection
of their vine stocks, nor have they succeeded in establishing a quality
wine standard with Australian names. Australian wines made on a mass
production basis are sound enough, but those I have tasted had little
character. Those with which I am familiar are Australian Claret, Bur­
gundy, Hock, Sauternes, and Port.

LATIN AMERICA
South of the Rio Grande, wines are produced in a number of the
American Republics, but of these only Argentina, Chile, Peru and Brazil
are of interest to us as exporters of wine; and Uruguay, because of the
similarity of their wines to our own American wine types.
The wine regions of Argentina, Chile and Peru lie almost entirely in
the Andean foothills where the character of the soil, as might be ex­
pected, is rough, rocky, and in some cases ferruginous.
Peru. On the Pacific slope and somewhat north of the normal wine
belt a fair amount of wine of medium quality is produced in Peru in
the regions of Ica, Locumba, Lima and the Sicamba River Valley. The
grapes employed are the European varieties, and the wines are all con­
sumed locally. However, the distinguished Pisco muscat brandy, of which
I speak in Chapter 18 on Brandies, is outstanding. It is distilled from
wines grown in the lea region and derives its name from the Port of
Pisco, whence it has always been shipped.
Brazil. On the Atlantic side of the continent and far from the Andean
divide some wine is produced from vinifera grapes. The wines are all
178 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

consumed locally, not being of exportable quality, except for some very
satisfactory champagne which has been exported on occasion to the
United States. Brazil imports most of the wine it consumes.
Uruguay. Lying on the eastern shore of the Rio de la Plata, Uruguay
produces small quantities of wines almost entirely from slip-skin varieties,
closely resembling our own New York and Ohio wines. None of these
wines is exported, being consumed by the local market. I have found the
wines, on my visits to Uruguay, to be pleasant enough, but not very
distinguished.

ARGENTINA
Argentina is the most important wine producing nation of the Western
Hemisphere, and ranks fifth among the world's wine producers, being
outranked only by France, Italy, Spain and Algeria.
The three principal wine regions of Argentina are in the Provinces of
Mendoza and San Juan, and the Territory of Rio Negro. Mendoza lies
in the west, on the Chilean border, and is the "California" of Argentina.
It is only in the last hundred years that the province has been developed.
Mendoza was a vast arid, sandy desert, showing green patches only along
the banks of the several rivers that cut through in draining off the melt­
ing Andean snows. The Italian immigrants who started coming to the
country during the latter part of the 19th century pitched in, worked
hard, used the waters from the rivers to irrigate the land, and in exactly
the same way as their relatives did who went to California— (I have yet
to meet a person of Italian origin either in the United States or Argentina
who does not have a relative in the other country)—they converted the
province into a beautiful garden, producing magnificent crops, mostly of
all types and classes of fruits. Finding that the grape had been cultivated
with success since the establishment of the missions by the Spanish ex­
plorers, it was only natural that the first attention was devoted to the
expansion of the vineyards and the production of wine. Today Mendoza
accounts for 90% of Argentina's annual table wine production.
The Province of San Juan lies immediately north of Mendoza and has
similar soil conditions, irrigation being always necessary. Climatic condi­
tions being on the whole somewhat hotter, the San Juan vineyards are
the source for dessert wines, wines for vermouth production and almost
all the table or eating grapes, as well as the magnificent raisins that are
available in such profusion in Argentina's public markets. San Juan
also produces some very pleasant table wines that enjoy wide popularity.
In the Territory of Rio Negro and in vineyards along the Rio Negro
River, somewhat further south from Mendoza, at a latitude comparable
to that at which the Champagne region and the German wine regions
 OTHER WINES 179
lie in Europe, are produced some of Argentina's best white wines and
champagne. By comparison with Mendoza's figures the quantities pro­
duced are not large. Very little, if any, irrigation is required and the soil
is less sandy, being more argillaceous and containing sections that are
quite chalky in character.
While some wine is produced in practically every province of Argen­
tina, all that is obtained outside of Mendoza and San Juan will not
amount to more than 2% of the country's total annual production. How­
ever, in the mountainous Cordoba Province there is a small region around
Villa Dolores where the most interesting wine is produced. The quantity
is small but I have found both the red and the white to be quite uni­
formly good, bottle after bottle, fruity, full-bodied and well balanced.
They are wines of character, the red wine being what I most often order
in Argentina, and I have seldom found a bottle that disappointed me.
The vinifera varieties are cultivated exclusively for commercial wine
production, and the leading European varieties are to be found, such as
the Cabernet, Malbec, Pinot noir, Gamay, Barbera, Sangiovese, Sauvi-
gnon vert, Semillon, Muscadelle, Chardonnay, Riesling, all the principal
muscats, Palomino, etc. There still remains considerable acreage planted
to the criolla (native) grape variety. This variety corresponds roughly to
the California Mission, being the descendant of the original varieties
brought in and planted by mission padres four hundred odd years ago.
Argentina's vineyards, like those of other wine regions, have suffered
and been subjected to attack from various diseases such as mildew, oidium
and the worst of all plagues,—the phylloxera, which has caused and con­
tinues to cause vast ravages of the vineyards, particularly in Mendoza
and San Juan.
On the whole, in Mendoza and San Juan the wines are made on a mass
production basis, there being similar conditions to those which occur in
California, in addition to which it must be borne in mind that the
greater part of the annual production is made by the half dozen "giants"
of the Argentine wine industry. Some of the largest wineries and wine
cellars in the world are to be found in Mendoza.
The viticultural and vinicultural experiment station, which forms part
of the University of Cuyo at Mendoza, has made real contributions to
the advances and modernization of wine growing in Argentina. It is an
outstanding establishment.
All classes and types of wines are produced in Argentina, almost all of
which are absorbed by the local market. Ninety-five percent or more of
the wines produced and consumed are light beverage wines, not contain­
ing more than 121/2 of alcohol, and those appetizer, dessert wines and
vermouths as are offered do not reach 16% in alcohol.
180 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

In the public interest, to say nothing of protecting the tax revenue,

Argentina's Bureau of Internal Revenue maintains a most careful super-
vision of the Wine Industry. Labels must be approved and must describe
the product precisely, including the net contents, so that the public will
at all times be informed. Controls are maintained to insure that wines
bearing vintages are truly wines of the vintage stated on the label.
Most table wines are marketed by brand names simply as "Red" or
"White Wine". Most are bottled in full litre bottles (33.8 ozs.) but the
premium qualities are marketed in 2 3 / 2 5 ounce bottles of the traditional
shapes, i.e., Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhine, etc.
Premium wines are also often labelled with the brand name Red Wine
or White Wine, but labels reading Clarete, Borgoña, Barbera, Chianti,
Sauternes, Chablis, Rhin, etc. are offered, as well as labels reading Viejo
and Extra Viejo, meaning "old" and "extra old", respectively.
A number of the leading wine houses also produce sparkling wines by
all the methods known in the Wine Trade. In other words, Argentine
Champagne is produced by the traditional bottle-fermented method, the
Charmat or bulk fermentation process, and by the artificial carbonation
method. Sparkling Burgundy is also produced, generally by the Charmat
method. Champagnes are usually labelled Brut, Extra Sec, Sec and Dulce
to denote the relative dryness or sweetness of the wine.
I have had occasion to taste a number of Argentine Champagnes and I
can say that on the whole they are clean, pleasant wines. In fact, I have
found some of the bottle-fermented Argentine Champagnes to be the best
sparkling wines labeled Champagne, produced outside of France. These
wines are delicate, fruity and well-balanced. On a few occasions I have
tasted exceptional Brut wines, but in general, I find the Extra Sec wines
are the most uniform. It seems that the slightly sweetened wines show
up best.
Sherry and Port wines of very satisfactory quality are offered, but the
Muscatels of San Juan are of superior quality, comparable, in fact, to
the Muscatel wines of the Mediterranean Islands. These wines do not
contain more than 16% alcohol.
Argentine wines in general are good, sound wines that are very preco-
cious, and should be drunk young. They travel satisfactorily to the nearby
countries, but not when shipped on long journeys, particularly if they
must cross the equator.
On the whole, during a ten year residence in Argentina, I have drunk
and tasted a great many of her wines and have never found a bad wine
among them. They are all very drinkable. However, among the commer-
cial wines, I have not found any with qualities of greatness, although on
 OTHER WINES l8l
several occasions I had the opportunity of drinking wines from private
cellars that were truly magnificent.
I should like to make a comparison at this point between Argentine
and American wine drinking habits.

Argentina United States

Estimated Population 18,000,000 160,000,000
Total Wine Consumption 250,000,000 gal. 140,000,000 gal.
Beverage Wine of total 95 /96% 35%
Per Capita Beverage
wine consumption 123/4 gal. 1/3 gal.

Yes, in Argentina it is quite apparent that a great deal of wine is con­

sumed. The fact of the matter is that wine—red and white table wine-
is part of the people's diet. In every restaurant, whether it be the finest
luxury establishment—and there are some really good ones—or a simple
workingman's eating place, you will see wine on every table; while in the
home, it will always be found on the host's table as well as the servants'.
It is served as a matter of course, just as coffee is served in the United
States.
Yet another interesting figure is the amount of vermouth consumed in
Argentina. I know of one brand alone that markets 1,800,000 cases a
year of the three million consumed. According to the figures available to
me, U.S. vermouth sales appear to be about 1,800,000 a year. Vermouth in
Argentina is consumed almost entirely as a aperitif, served "on the rocks",
or with a dash of soda and a dash or two of Italian style bitters.
But what is most important of all is that in all the time I have lived
in Argentina I have never seen an intoxicated Argentine, in spite of all
the wine, vermouth, beer and spirits that are used by the people.
The unquestioned moral of this evidence isfirst—thata wine-consuming
people will be a temperate people, and secondly—that until we, in the
United States achieve a wine-consuming picture that approaches that of
the Argentine's, we will not have a sound or secure Wine Industry.

CHILE
By comparison with her sister nation, across the Andes, Chile is a
small country both in area and in population, having about 6,000,000
inhabitants. From a wine point of view she is far more important, as she
produces the best wines in South America. They are wines of quality and
character and have found the greatest acceptance in our market as well
as those of Europe.
Chile has been most generously blessed by Mother Nature. She is en-
182 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

dowed with a delightfully sunny climate, ideal soil conditions, and above
all, practically disease-free vineyards. No serious plague such as mildew or
phylloxera has ever touched the Chilean vines.
The vine has been cultivated in Chile since the beginning of Spanish
colonization in the XVI Century, when the early missionaries, as they
did elsewhere, planted the vine for the production of wine for the sacra­
ment. Due to propitious soil, it was not long before these vineyards
were producing wines for more mundane purposes. It is presumed that
the first vines planted in Chile were cuttings brought down from Cuzco,
the ancient capital of the Inca. This must have been before 1551 because
in letters of that date, Don Pedro de Valdivia, one of Chile's early leaders,
mentions eating locally grown grapes; and several years later, he com­
ments upon the wine produced near the city of Santiago.
Chile is a rather long and narrow strip of land which begins at the
southern border of Peru and extends 2800 miles south to icy Tierra del
Fuego and the Straits of Magellan. At its back lies the ever present and
imposing massif of the snow-covered Andes range, including the 23,003
ft. high Mount Aconcagua, the tallest peak in the Western Hemisphere;
and washing its long shoreline is the equally impressive Pacific Ocean
and its cold Humbolt Current. It is this combination of fresh breezes
striking against the high wall of the mountain back-drop that produces
the ideal climatic conditions that have such a marked effect upon all the
fruits of Chile's soil so that whether it be grapes, or peaches, or rasp­
berries, or pears, or melons or lentils, onions or garlic, they are rich in
perfume, flavor and character. Her wines are no exception. They are on
the whole better than good, and occasionally capable of greatness.
From Coquimbo, about 30 degrees latitude, south to Temuco, 40 de­
grees, the vine is generally under cultivation and wine is made. The
principal regions are Huasco and Elqui in the north, the central sector
which includes the regions of Aconcague, Maipo, Cachapoal and Lontue,
and to the south are Itata and Cauquenes.
Although in Chile itself the region of the Llano del Maipo, near San­
tiago, enjoys the reputation for producing the wines of best quality, it is
my humble opinion, after continued and repeated tastings, that the wines
produced at or near Lontue are the equal if not in some cases superior.
I came to this conclusion when I first visited Chile and blind-tasted the
wines of all the regions, and I have found no reason to change my
opinion since then.
The soil of the Chilean wine regions is volcanic in nature, and as I
said before, it is one of the most favored wine regions of the world. Such
diseases as it suffers are not serious; probably the worst worry the vine-
 OTHER WINES l83
yard owner has is that of late spring or early summer hail storms, which
are, on occasion, quite devastating.
The principal vinifera varieties are cultivated for wine production, as
well as table grapes and raisins. Most of the original cuttings have been
brought from the various European wine regions, but in recent years
cuttings have also been imported from California. For white wines the
varieties most used are the Sauvignon vert, Semillon, Muscadelle, Pinot
blanc or Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Riesling, Traminer and the Chilean
local variety known as the Loca Blanca, etc., while for red wines, the
wine producers use primarily the Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Verdot,
Pinot noir, etc. The table and raisin varieties tend mostly to the various
muscats such as the Muscat of Alexandria, of Canelli, Malvasia, Malaga
and seedless varieties such as the Corinth and Thompson, of which thou­
sands of boxes are exported annually to the American market. Probably
some of the finest grapes and raisins I recall eating are those that come
from Elqui. They possess a rich luscious perfume and flavor.
Cultivation of the vine and production of wine were rather carelessly
pursued in Chile for some four centuries. Perhaps haphazardly would be
a better term. Then in 1851 Don Silvestre Ochagavia contracted the
services of M. Bertrand, a French viticulturer who brought with him the
first cuttings of Cabernets, Pinots, etc. and with his arrival began the
modernization and vast expansion of wine production, consumption and
appreciation for quality which Chile was capable of producing. During
the century that has followed, M. Bertrand has been succeeded by a long
series of eminent French viticulturists and oenologists, such as Gaston
Canu, Georges Guyot de Granmaison, Leopold Gamerre, O. Brard and
Paul Pacottet. I have had the privilege of meeting Paul Pacottet. He is a
distinguished scientist, having founded the experimental laboratories at
the National Institute of Agriculture in Paris, and the School of Agri­
culture at Grignon, France. He continues to exert his influence on Chil­
ean viti-viniculture where his advice is sought and valued by the entire
Wine Trade. As is evident, Chilean viniculture has been developed
wholly along French lines.
Wine production follows European methods in all respects. Fermenta­
tion takes place in vats and the new wine is racked into small or medium-
sized cooperage for its development. The wines are generally bottled quite
young, one to one and a half years for white wines, and two and a half
years for the red wines, i.e., after the vintage.
All classes and types of wines can be and are produced in Chile, but
consumption of wines other than red and white table wines is negligible
by comparison. Good, but rather sweetish Champagne is produced and
184 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

some sherry and port type wines, as well as all the vermouth consumed
in Chile.
The largest volume of wine sold in Chile is purchased by the consum-
ing public as simply—Tinto or Blanco (red or white), which Mr. Con-
sumer takes home generally from the grocery store, in a typically Chilean
type wicker-covered demijohn of 5 to 10 litres, called a chuico. He buys
his wine, leaving a deposit for the container, which is discounted when
he returns it and takes away another filled chuico.
In clubs, restaurants, hotels and fine groceries, premium wines, of
which there is an abundance, are offered in the traditional European
bottles. These wines bearing vintage dates sometimes, and resembling
quite closely their namesakes are labeled—Cabernet, Borgoña (Burgundy),
Pommard, Pinot, Riesling, Rhin, Chablis, Sauvignon, Semillon, Sauternes,
etc. In addition, the labels will bear the name of the vineyard and one
of the following phrases, in order of quality (the first being the best):
Gran Vino para Banquetes (Great wine for banquets), Gran Vino, or
Reservado.
With few exceptions, the Riesling and Rhin are bottled, for sale in
Chile, in the boxbeutel of Steinwein fame.
Grape and wine growing in Chile is a very important agricultural
endeavor, and one that is of great concern to the people as a whole and
to the Government too, particularly the Internal Revenue Department
which is charged with controlling every step of the wine's progress from
the planting of the grape until its final disposition on the consumer's
table. Strict supervision of labeling, quality standards, etc. are main-
tained.
Chile is the only country I have ever visited, or heard of, where I have
seen people actually become completely intoxicated on table wine. Travel-
ling once by car to visit a large vineyard we very nearly ran over a man
dead-drunk, sleeping it off in the middle of the road. My Chilean friends
explained that "cured" individuals, like the one in the road, are not
uncommon. As a temperance measure the Chilean legislature passed a
law limiting the amount of wine that can be sold within the country to
60 litres (15.85 gallons) per capita. It is interesting to note that there has
been a marked decline in absenteeism due to alcoholism. The most re-
cent statistics show that absenteeism due to excessive drinking dropped
to only 16%.
In supervising strict compliance of this law, the Internal Revenue
Department establishes quotas, governing new plantings, wine produc-
tion and marketing. This does not mean that production is limited to the
60 litre per capita internal consumption figure. Any wine produced in
excess of the statutory limit must be either exported, distilled into brandy
 OTHER WINES 185
or alcohol for fuel purposes or dumped. Since under the law only some
8 5 / 9 0 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 gallons can be marketed internally, and Chile produces
upwards of 150,000,000 gallons annually, the industry has to find a con­
tinually expanding export market if it wishes to prosper and progress.
As a result, the leaders have been able to develop excellent markets for
premium wines, exported in bottles to this country and the other Amer­
ican Republics, and for standard quality wines shipped in bulk to a num­
ber of European markets, notably Belgium, Holland, the Scandinavian
countries, Switzerland, Germany and France. Naturally, a much greater
volume of exports is made to the European countries than to the Amer­
ican nations.
Chilean wines have justifiably found a very ready acceptance wherever
they have been offered. In the United States, where they are very mod­
erately priced, they represent some of the best wine values available to
the consuming public.
Chile ships the following wines to this market:
Riesling and Rhine Wine—Generally light, delicate, pleasant, rather
dry wine. When shipped by a producer possessing Riesling vines, they
will be quite distinguished and will have the delightful fresh fragrance
that only the Riesling grape imparts. These are the most popular wines
from Chile.
Chablis—A dry, cool, well rounded white wine.
Sauternes, Haut Sauternes—Sweet to luscious, fragrant full-bodied wine.
T o the best of my knowledge, the only wine made outside of the Sau-
ternais district of the Bordeaux region, in the identical manner, i.e.,
employing the identical grape varieties, the Sauvignon, Semillon and
Muscadelle, which are allowed to remain upon the vine until pourriture
noble develops. In other words, the rich sweetness is natural. It is in my
opinion the best "Sauternes" produced outside of France.
Semillon—Similar in character to the Sauternes.
Burgundy—Generally, a well-rounded, soft, full-flavored red wine ob­
tained primarily from the Pinot noir. Some of the Chilean Burgundy I
have tasted, I have considered great wine.
Cabernet—Usually a well-balanced fine red wine, somewhat lighter in
body than the Burgundy.
Vin Rose—A pleasantly dry light-bodied rose colored wine.
Sparkling Burgundy—That which has been shipped to this country has
proved to be of very satisfactory quality, being of pleasant fragrance and
medium sweet in taste.
186 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

WINES FROM FRUITS OTHER THAN T H E GRAPE

In a broad sense, the properly fermented, freshly expressed juice of any
fruit may be called wine, though we think of wine in its narrower mean­
ing—the product of the juice of the grape.
Commercially, at any rate, wine obtained from other fruits is a minor
business. The chief exceptions are cider, obtained from apples; and in a
lesser degree, perry, from pears; and blackberry wine.
CIDER AND PERRY
Cider, or Sidra, in Spanish, comes from the Hebrew word Shekhar,
meaning strong drink. Cider and perry are obtained by the vinous fer­
mentation of the freshly expressed juice of the fruits. Their alcoholic
content varies from 2 to 8 per cent and is sometimes slightly higher. This,
of course, is the cider which we in America call "hard cider," as opposed
to the non-alcoholic sweet cider.
In Spain and England, a secondary fermentation occasionally takes
place in the bottle, producing a wine called "Champagne Cider." All
Spanish cider, indeed, is treated in this manner.
Just as good eating grapes are poor wine varieties, so apples and pears
which are good to eat, are poor for making cider or perry.
Both cider and perry are rather sweet beverages which are wholesome
and have the pronounced flavor of the fruit. Champagne cider—I am most
familiar with the fine Spanish variety—is somewhat sweet and has a pleas­
ant appleflavor.This is made by a secondary fermentation taking place
in the bottle, as Champagne is made. The fermentation is produced by
adding a small amount of pure cane suga syrup, the carbonic acid thus
created being retained in the bottle. In Latin America vast quantities of
it are sold as the poor man's Champagne, because it is always about half
as expensive as Champagne. It is also useful in making punches and cups.
DANISH CHERRY AND BLACK CURRANT WINES
The most interesting non-grape wine that has found a considerable
market in America is the cherry wine of Denmark. Made from the small,
black langeskov cherries, native to Denmark, the wine possesses not only
the lovely cherryflavorbut the subtle accent of the cherry stones, which
remain present during its production.
Some black currant wine from the same origin has also received accep­
tance.
Both wines are fortified, being shipped with an alcoholic content of
approximately 171/2% and 1 9 1 4 % , respectively. They are rich in fruitiness
and quite sweet,—a good reason for their popularity. They are most pleas­
ant if served well chilled, or in mixed drinks, and the cherry wine is
finding wide use in the kitchen to give the delightful dash of cherry flavor
to fruits and desserts.
 OTHER WINES 187

BLACKBERRY, PEACH, APRICOT, CHERRY, AND APPLE WINES

Many fruits are used in making wine, but the only ones, aside from
those discussed above, made commercially since Repeal are blackberry,
peach, apricot, cherry, and apple wines. The examples of these wines
which I have tasted were well-made, clean wines, produced mostly in
Georgia. Some are made in New York also.
These wines often are made from dried fruit to which pure cane sugar
and water are added. It is necessary to ameliorate the fruit must with
sugar because their high acid content must be balanced.
The acid content of blackberry must is about 1 per cent and this is
principally isocitric acid, an acid not to be found in other wines. It is the
quantity of isocitric acid which gives the wine its distinctive character.
All of these fruit wines are fortified and sweet to the taste. In each case
they have the pronounced flavor of the fruit from which they are made.
In the fabrication of home-made wines, however, the list is quite ex­
tensive, including such fruits as gooseberry, elderberry, raspberry, black­
berry, strawberry, currant, and cranberry. These ferment and produce
good wholesome wine.
Pulpy fruits such as peach, apricot, plum, and cherry are also used oc­
casionally, but they are not, as a rule, as successful in making wine as are
berries.
However, all of these fruits require the addition of a substantial pro­
portion of sugar as their acids overbalance their natural sugar content.
A dry or sweet wine of distinctive character is often made from the
common dandelion.

SACRAMENTAL WINES
From the beginning, as we have already pointed out, there has been a
close alliance between wine and religion. Even during the era of Prohibi­
tion in the United States, wine for religious purposes was permitted. It is,
therefore, within the scope of this work to comment on the sacramental
use of wine. Almost all of the western religions use wine in their ritual,
the two most important, as regards frequency of use, being the Roman
Catholic and Hebrew faiths.

USE OF WINE IN THE MASS

Through the kindness of the Dean of Cathedral College, New York, the
reference works of the Sacred Congregation of the Holy Office were made
available, providing the following information:
To be valid, the wine used in the Eucharistic Sacrifice must be pure
grape juice which has passed through the natural period of fermentation.
188 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Without the process of fermentation, the juice of the grape does not con­
stitute true wine and consequently cannot be used in the Mass. The Con­
gregation of Sacraments, on July 31, 1890, said: "Provided that the alco­
hol has been extracted from the fruit of the grape, and the quantity
added, together with that which the wine to be treated naturally pos­
sesses, does not exceed the proportion of 12 per cent, there is no obstacle
in the way of using such wine in the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass." This
means that the alcohol contained in the juice from the grape itself, plus
that added from an outside source, must not exceed 12 per cent, and the
addition must be made soon after the juice is pressed from the grape.
Sour wine is also invalid for use in the Mass, and no chemical process
may be resorted to in order to correct the natural tartness of the wine,
such as the use of tartrate or potassium. In addition, it was declared by
the Sacred Congregation of the Holy Office that sugar should not be
added to the wine. To preserve the extra sweet wines, however, the Holy
Office, on August 5, 1896, allowed the addition which should not exceed
the proportion of 17 or 18 per cent, provided such addition be made
when the fermentation had commenced to subside.
As to its color, the wine may be either red or white.*
USE OF WINE IN THE SYNAGOGUE
Rabbi A. Hyman kindly furnished the information as to the use of
wine in the Synagogue and in the homes of pious Jews.
In order to be used for ritual purposes, the wine must be made accord­
ing to the Rabbinical law and must be a pure, natural wine, unmixed,
sweet and sound. It may be either red or white. If it becomes sour, or has
impurities from the lees, it cannot be used. There is no such thing as a
"sanctified wine" in the sense that a special wine is used in the Syna­
gogue. The same wine may be used in the Temple as is used in the home.
Wine is used in the Synagogue in the Friday evening services to an­
nounce the incoming of the Sabbath, and also on the eve of the Festivals.
It is used at the home service, Friday nights and on Holy Days, its most
widespread use being on the two Seder nights of Passover, when it is ob­
ligatory for each one to drink four glasses of wine. As a general rule,
sweet red wine is used, but white wine is permissible also.
Both at the incoming prayer of the Sabbath, Friday evening, and the
outgoing prayer at the end of the Sabbath, Saturday evening, wine is

* References:
De Sacramentis in Geneve, Tanguerey, page 80.
Matters Liturgical—Wuest Mullaney—page 5 6 .
Catechism of the Council of Т г е н г - M c H u g h and Collan p p . 2 2 1 - 2 2 3 .
 OTHER WINES 189
used. In the Synagogue and at home, the amount of wine served at these
two services, according to ancient ritual, should equal an egg and a half
full—about21/2ounces—and more than half of it must be drunk.
At wedding ceremonies, a glass of wine must be used by the bride and
bridegroom.
PASSOVER WINES *
In America, the home-made Passover wine is being replaced to a large
extent by strictly supervised modern wineries, which meet all the require­
ments of the religious laws.
This wine is made primarily from the Concord grape, grown in the
central and eastern States, which seems to fit in with the need for a mel­
low, rich wine.
The Concord wine is rich, sweet, and of a deep purplish color. After
the wine has fermented out naturally, pure cane sugar is added as sweet­
ening in order to counteract the natural acidity of the grape, and balance
the pronounced flavor.
TRADE
The trade in these wines is a steady business which may be obtained by
seeking out those in the community who use wines for religious purposes.
In communities where there are people of the Hebrew faith, a substantial
trade is available at the time of the Passover festival in the spring, when
even the less religious observe the ritual of the Passover or Seder feast,
and everyone drinks wine.
* Based on information furnished by Leo Star of Monarch Wine Company.
 17

Distilled Spirits in General

T H E ORIGIN of the art and science of distillation is shrouded in the dim

past. It is poetical to call its secret a gift of the gods, but it is more reason­
able to suppose that it was discovered by some long-forgotten alchemist.
The essence of the principle of distillation is this: alcohol vaporizes,
i.e., becomes a gas, at a lower temperature than water. The boiling point
of water is 212° F., when it becomes steam or vapor; while that of alcohol
0
is 176 F. Therefore, if heat is applied to an alcohol-containing liquid,
and the temperature is kept below 212°, all of the alcohol may be sepa­
rated from the original liquid. If, at the same time, an apparatus is used
whereby the alcoholic vapors are gathered and not allowed to escape into
the air, it is possible to recondense them into liquid form. The result will
be an alcohol of high purity. This sounds simple and so it is, if one
wishes to produce alcohol, but if one is trying to produce a potable alco­
holic beverage, the problem is more difficult, and, if the product is to be
a fine one, more delicate.
Apparently the science of distillation was known to the ancient Egyp­
tians and Chaldeans. Long before the Christian era the Chinese obtained
a spirit from rice wine; and Arak has been distilled from sugar cane and
rice in the East Indies since 800B.C.Later we find Aristotle (384-322 B.C),
the great Greek philosopher, stating in his Meteorology that "sea water
can be made potable by distillation; wine and other liquids can be sub­
mitted to the same process." There are many such references to distilled
spirits in ancient writings. Even Captain Cook, on his voyage of discovery
to the South Pacific, found the natives of the islands familiar with the
distillation process.
For our practical purposes, however, the modern history of distillation
may be said to date from the Arabs or Saracens. They gave us the words
"alcohol" and "alembic"—the word for still, used in all but English-
speaking countries. The first mention of distillation is attributed to an
Arabian alchemist of the tenth century, one Albukassen; later in the
thirteenth century a Majorcan chemist and philosopher, Ramon Lull,
described the process. Even before his time, the Celts of Eire and Scotia,
190
 DISTILLED SPIRITS IN GENERAL 191
unaware of the efforts of the Arabs, were producing a potable spirit which
they called uisgebeatha or uisgebaugh—"water of life."
Curiously enough, every ancient treatise referred to spirits as acquae
vite or aqua vitae—the eau de vie of France today. It is strange that the
product men have designated from the beginning as the "water of life,"
should have been regarded by many in this country as dangerous to life.
Although modern science has progressed amazingly, and methods have
grown more and more efficient, the apparatus used for distilling most
spirits is still much the same, save for a few refinements, as the one used
by the original distillers, many centuries ago. Reduced to its two essen­
tial parts, it consists of a still and a worm condenser. The still is a copper
pot, with a broad, rounded bottom, and a long taper-neck. The worm
condenser is a copper spiral tube which is connected to the still by a cop­
per pipe. The worm passes through a jacket containing cold water to
assist in a more rapid condensation of the vapors. Such an apparatus is
known in the trade as a pot still. Pot stills are used exclusively in the dis­
tillation of brandies, Scotch and most Irish whiskies, most liqueurs, Arak,
and some rums.
In 1826, Robert Stein, of the famous Scotch whisky distilling family,
invented the patent still. This was later perfected by Aeneas Coffey, whose
patent replaced Stein's and whose name has come down to us in connec­
tion with this type of still, which is known as a Coffey or patent still.
So far in this book we have discussed wines, which are the result of the
natural processes of fermentation of the sugar contained in the grape
juice. Now we are about to take up those alcoholic beverages which are
obtained by distilling out the essence of an alcohol-containing liquid.
There are many of these, and while we shall consider each type in sepa­
rate chapters, it is important to classify and define them now.
Brandy is a potable spirit, suitably aged in wood, obtained by distilling
wine or a fermented mash of fruit. Examples are: Cognac, Armagnac,
Spanish brandy, Greek brandy, American brandy, Kirsch or Kirschwasser
(cherry brandy), Calvados or Apple Jack (apple brandy), Slivovitz (plum
brandy), and other fruit brandies.
Whiskey is a spirit, suitably aged in wood, usually oak, obtained from
the distillation of a fermented mash of grain. Examples are: Scotch
whisky, Irish whiskey, Canadian whiskey, Rye whiskey, Bourbon whiskey.
Rum is a potable spirit, suitably aged in wood, obtained from the dis­
tillation of a fermented mash of sugar-cane juice or molasses. Examples
are: Jamaica rum, Demerara rum, Barbadoes rum, Martinique rhum,
Cuban ron, Puerto Rican ron, Haitian rhum, Philippine ron, New Eng­
land rum, Batavia Arak, and others.
Gin is a compounded beverage, obtained by rectifying a high-proof
192 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

spirit in the presence of a flavoring agent. Examples are: English London

dry and Old Tom gins, Geneva, Scheidam or Hollands gin, American
gins similar to these, and fruit-flavored gins.
Cordials or Liqueurs are compounded beverages, whose flavor is ob­
tained either by infusion or distillation of theflavoringagent, to which is
then added simple syrup for sweetening. They may or may not be arti­
ficially colored. All liqueurs or cordials are sweet. For tariff and taxation
purposes, the regulations specify that a cordial or liqueur must have in
excess of21/2per cent of sugar by volume. Examples are: apricot liqueur,
Benedictine, blackberry liqueur, Cointreau, Creme de Cassis, Creme de
Cacao, Creme de Menthe, Chartreuse, Grand Marnier, Prunelle, straw­
berry liqueur, Triple Sec, and many others.
Miscellaneous Spirits are obtained by distilling from various starchy or
sugar-containing products. They include: Akvavit or Acquavit, Pisco,
Tequila, Vodka, Zubrovka.
In other words, I have merely said that a potable spirit, obtained from
a given basic material, has an accepted trade name. But it should be ex­
plained that the factors which make them differ from one another are the
matters, aside from alcohol, which are necessarily distilled out with the
alcohol: the impurities, the small amounts of alcohols other than ethyl;
the solids and minerals, which differ in fruits, grains, and sugar cane.
While distillation is in progress, it can be carried to the point where
all the alcohol is separated. The resultant spirit would be pure, or abso­
lute alcohol of 200° proof. Such a spirit would be the same, whether ob­
tained from fruit, grain, or molasses, and would have no character what­
soever. We are not concerned here with such a pure spirit—in fact, for all
practical purposes a spirit of 190° proof is sufficiently neutral for blend­
ing, and such spirits are used by the trade daily. The trade term for them
is neutral spirits or cologne spirits.
Newly distilled spirits, whether obtained from fruit, grain, or molasses,
are colorless, have little character, and are quite similar. They have a
sharp, biting aroma and taste. When they have been matured for a certain
length of time in wood, however, the "impurities" or congenerics develop,
creating products entirely different in aroma, taste, and character.
The various congeners in spirits consist of fusel oils, extracts of mineral
salts and solids in minute quantities, acids, esters, aldehydes, and fur­
fural.
Fusel oils are other, or higher alcohols, such as propyl, butyl, amyl,
hexyl, heptyl, and the dialcohols and trialcohols.
Acids found in spirits vary with different liquors, but include propi­
onic, butyric, tartaric, lactic, succinic, and so forth.
Esters are produced by the combination of the acids and the alcohols,
 DISTILLED SPIRITS IN GENERAL 193
and form the volatile substance that gives the aroma to the spirit.
Aldehydes are produced by the combination of the alcohols and air,
and are a contributing factor in giving a distinctive character to the spirit.
Furfural is an aldehyde. It is mostly obtained during distillation and
partly extracted from the oak casks in which spirits are matured.
When the freshly distilled spirit flows from the still it is colorless, has a
sharp pungent alcoholic aroma and sharp taste. If distilled out at 1 8 0 °
proof, it would be difficult for any but experienced distillers to differen­
tiate among distillates of grain, fruit (grape), or cane. When the spirit
is distilled out at a lower proof, 160° or less, it contains more congeners,
and naturally has more character. Such a spirit, upon maturing in wood,
undergoes certain changes in its composition, which develop its flavor
and character.
Once it is placed in glass, and sealed against air, no further change will
take place. But as long as it is in wood, there is constant change, brought
about by the oxidizing effect of the air or oxygen on the alcohol. The
oxidation, or burning, causes the esters and acids to increase materially,
the aldehydes slowly, the fusel oils to remain practically the same, and a
certain amount of loss of alcohol to take place in proportion to volume.
Furthermore, the spirit will absorb some tannin and other coloring mate­
rial from the wood container, and become less harsh, and in a sense,
sweeter than it was originally.
Before the making of distilled spirits became a science, the primitive
distillers had a very simple method for determining the potable strength
of the distillate. An equal quantity of spirit and gunpowder were mixed
and a flame applied. If the gunpowder failed to burn, the spirit was too
weak; if it burned too brightly, it was too strong. But if the mixture
burned evenly, with a blueflame,it was said to have been "proved."
Today we know that this potable mean was approximately 5 0 per cent
of alcohol by volume, and we have adopted the term "proof" to describe
the strength of alcoholic beverages. In the United States proof spirit is a
spirit containing 5 0 per cent of alcohol by volume at a temperature of
6 0 ° F. This is an arbitrary measurement. Each degree of proof is equal to
0
one-half of one per cent of alcohol. Therefore, a spirit of 9 0 proof con­
0
tains 4 5 per cent of alcohol, and a spirit of 1 5 0 proof contains 7 5 per
cent of alcohol. The trade term for a spirit of more than 100° proof is
"over-proof" spirit.

RECTIFIED SPIRITS

What is rectifying? Theoretically, to purify or improve, but practically

it means anything which changes the character of a spirit, with certain
exceptions as provided by law.
 194 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Rectified spirits must pay a "rectifying tax" of thirty cents per gallon.
Rectifying must be performed in an establishment which holds a "Rec­
tifier's License."
Only tax paid spirits may be used for rectifying.
What constitutes rectifying?
1. Blending two different spirits.
2. Blending two different whiskies, i.e., whiskies distilled in two differ­
ent distilleries or in two different seasons of the year.
3. Blending whiskey with neutral spirits.
4. Redistillation of a whiskey which has been stored in a barrel.
5. Adding coloring, flavoring or anything except water.
6. Redistillation of neutral spirits for potable purposes.
7. The distillation of neutral spirits over aflavoringagent.
8. Compounding of neutral spirits with essential oils for gin or liqueurs,
and/or simple syrup for sweetening.
The following do N O T constitute rectifying and consequently are not
subject to the thirty cents per gallon rectification tax:
1. The blending of whiskies which are four years old or more, when
such blending takes place under U. S. Government supervision.
2. The distillation of gin, where the spirit is produced from grain and
the entire process is continuous within closed pipe lines in one plant.
3. The mere reduction in proof with water only.

THERAPEUTIC VALUE OF SPIRITS

The whole question of drinking, unhappily, has been invested with so
much mumbo-jumbo, loudly proclaimed by badly-informed zealots of re­
form, that the quieter, more restrained voices of the scientific investi­
gators have been drowned out. There is room in all this discussion for a
balanced judgment which can recognize the beneficial qualities of alco­
holic beverages to man, and at the same time be aware of their faults.
The biggest bugaboo of all is the fact that these beverages contain al­
cohol. Alcohol is a compound of several elements: carbon, hydrogen, and
oxygen, and in itself it not only is not harmful to man but is a necessary
constituent of his blood stream. The normal alcoholic content of the
average man's blood is .003 per cent, the alcohol being produced by the
action of the gastric juices on the sugars and starches consumed.
Alcohol is the only food taken into the system which is unaffected by
the digestive system. The stomach and intestines pass it into the blood
stream, unchanged, and it is diffused so rapidly, that within a few min­
utes after swallowing, it has reached every part of the body. It is carried
to the liver, then to the right ventricle of the heart, to the lungs, back to
the left ventricle of the heart, then through the aorta into the arteries,
 DISTILLED SPIRITS IN GENERAL 195
and throughout the body, finally coming to the brain and the higher
nerve centers. Here is where it has its most pronounced effect.
The popular idea is that alcohol is a stimulant. Pathologically, that is
not true. There is a false stimulation due to the loss of control of the in­
hibitory nerve centers which control heart beat, thus increasing the heart
beat and causing a sensation of warmth. Actually, the effect is relaxing
rather than stimulating.
Again, in regard to this sensation of warmth, there is another general
misconception. It is actually only the surface of the body, the skin, which
is warmed; and in reality more heat is given off by the body than is sup­
plied by the alcohol. As a matter of fact, alcohol is an excellent way of
reducing body heat rapidly. This is why so much rum is drunk in the
tropics. It is more cooling than ice water.
All investigations made on the toxic effects of alcohol have been based
on doses of pure alcohol. These effects are materially reduced as dilution
is increased, and when alcohol is part of other substances, such as the
solids of wine or beer, its intoxicating quality is reduced further.
A book which has done much to correct the countless misconceptions
about the properties of alcohol is Smith and Helwig's Liquor, the Servant
of Man, which proves conclusively the following points:
"Alcohol is actually manufactured in the human body, but is less toxic
than most of the other natural secretions, such as thyroid, pituitary, ad­
renal, pancreas and bile."
"Alcohol, if taken in anything remotely approaching customary
amounts, is harmless to the body and in many cases beneficial."
"Alcohol is one of the most valuable medicines in the world, both as a
sedative and as a food, is useful for these and other reasons in many dis­
ease conditions, and is almost always indicated in old age."
"Alcohol, to indulge in an understatement, has had a conspicuous posi­
tion in the history of the race. It fathered religion and science and agri­
culture, provided more human confidence, and promoted good will to­
ward men. It is the most efficient and practical relaxer of the driving force
in the brain; it offers an immediate method of personal enjoyment; it is
the greatest medium known for the purpose of permitting man to forget,
at least for a little while, the shortness of life and the ludicrously help­
less and infinitesimal part he plays in the functions of the universe."

POINTS TO REMEMBER ABOUT ALCOHOL

Alcohol is absorbed, in its original state, from the stomach direct into
the blood stream.
Alcohol does not physically damage any of the healthy important or-
196 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

gans of the body, such as the heart, liver, kidneys, stomach, brain, or nerv­
ous system.
The normal alcoholic strength of human blood (teetotalers included)
is .003 per cent. In the average adult, the lethal limit is around .7 per
cent.
Alcohol produces energy without making the body work, because it is
taken into the blood stream in its original state. Alcohol itself does not
produce fat. Other foods, which would normally produce the energy
needed by the body, are stored, as an energy reserve, in the form of fat
by those who drink regularly in substantial amounts.
The part of the body most quickly and directly affected by alcohol is
the brain. Its effect, both on the brain and the nervous system, is relax­
ing, not stimulating.
Excess of alcohol once absorbed cannot be "worked off" except by oxi­
dation and excretion. The normal rate of elimination is about 10 c.c. per
hour and this remains constant, whether you lie in bed, walk around in
the open, or sit in a Turkish bath.
The best insulation against the effects of over-indulgence is food to line
the walls of the stomach. The best food is the fat of milk. In the order of
their protection value, these are the foods you can take: cream, whole
milk, butter, meat fats, olive oil, and meat.
The heart of a hang-over is fatigue poison, lactic acid, physiologically
induced by the alcohol. The only cure is rest and time.
There is no evidence that alcohol in itself causes any disease.
The principal danger of too much alcohol is social. One who is drunk
—whether from imbibing one or ten drinks—has a narcotized brain—one
which is not awake. In a moment of crisis, when a quick decision is neces­
sary, the part of the brain which reasons may be awake, while the part
which commands the muscles may be asleep, or vice versa. The result in
either case is trouble.
Alcohol is prescribed in many ailments, but is proscribed in some for
which the layman believes it most valuable. These are shock, snake bite,
fatigue and colds. In the first two the blood pressure is lowered. That's
what alcohol does to you. Fatigue means that you have too much lactic
acid in the system and alcohol adds to it.
The conclusion one reaches from the assembled evidence is that alco­
holic beverages in themselves, even when consumed in large quantities,
are not damaging nor harmful to man, physically. When taken temper­
ately, they are beneficial.
We do not advocate that anyone drink for the "kick." Drinking should
be done for pleasure, relaxation, and the release to which the beverage
contributes; it should be made a part of the good life.
 18

Brandies

BRANDY IS A POTABLE SPIRIT obtained from the distillation of wine or a

fermented mash of fruit, which usually has been suitably aged in wood.
An alcoholic beverage answering this description may be produced in any
part of the world, except Little America. However, when we say brandy,
we usually mean the delightful "soul" of wine. In this sense, brandy is
distilled wherever wine grapes grow and are pressed. There is one brandy
which the world has accepted and recognized as superior to all others.
This is Cognac brandy.
It is important to understand that all Cognac is brandy, but all bran­
dies are not Cognac. Cognac is a brandy distilled from wines made of
grapes grown within the legal limits of the Charente and Charente In­
férieure Departments of France. Brandies distilled from wines other than
these are not legally entitled to the name Cognac, even though they be
shipped from the city of Cognac, by a recognized and reputable Cognac
shipper.
The art of distillation, although known to the ancients, was not ap­
plied to wine commercially until the sixteenth century, when the brandy
trade began. According to legend, a brisk trade in wine existed between
the port of La Rochelle, on the Charente river, and Holland. All of this
trade was carried on by sea, and the perils of war, which were great then
as they are now, placed a premium on shipping.
Casks of wine take up quite a lot of space, particularly if you are using
small sailing vessels. So the story is told of one very bright Dutch ship­
master who hit upon the idea of concentrating the wine—eliminating the
water—transporting the spirit, or the "soul," of the wine to Holland,
where the water could be put back. In his thrifty mind hefiguredthat he
could save an enormous amount on the freight charges.
When this enterprising man arrived in Holland, however, with his
"concentrated wine," his Dutch friends tasted it and liked it as it was. It
would be a waste of water, they decided, to try to make it wine again.
And thus the brandy trade had its inception. The Dutch called the new
product brantywein (burnt wine), presumably becausefire,or heat, is used
197
 198
GROSSMANS
' GUIDE
in the process of distillation. In time this term was Anglicized to the
present-day word—brandy.

COGNAC *

The ancient city of Cognac, on the Charente river, is in the heart of

the district which produces the brandies that have carried its fame through-
out the world. In fact, they have done the job so well that Cognac is
probably the best-known French word in the world. In far-off China, or
deep in darkest Africa, the word Cognac will evoke smiles of recognition
when any other French word would produce a blank stare.
The story is told of a certain Cardinal who was dining one day in
Rome with several other Cardinals, all come to pay their respects to the
Holy Father. One of the princes of the Church, turning to the newcomer,
asked: "Where is your See?"
"I am Bishop of Angoulême," he replied, and then, amused by their
blank expressions, he added, with a twinkle in his eye: "I am also Bishop
of Cognac!"
Smiles lit up the faces of his brother Cardinals. "Ah, the magnificent
bishopric!" they exclaimed.
The Cognac district, the Charentais, has seven subdivisions, which, in
the order of quality, are:

a. Grande Champagne e. Bons Bois

b. Petite Champagne f. Bois Ordinaires
c. Borderies g. Bois communs dits
d. Fins Bois a Terroir

The qualities which make Cognac superior to all other brandies are
not only the special process of distillation used in this district for centu-
ries, but also the combination of ideal soil, climate, and other conditions.
While it might be possible for another section to reproduce one or two
of these essentials, the combination of all the factors cannot be achieved
elsewhere.
The Cognac region was delimited by law in 1909. The Grande Cham-
pagne is a small district which is the kernel of the region. In it lies the
town of Cognac about which everything centers, the territory, the com-
merce, and the fame of the product. Almost completely surrounding it is
the Petite Champagne. To the north, and situated about at the point
where the encirclement of the Grande Champagne is incomplete, are the
Borderies, the smallest district.
Completely surrounding these first three districts are the Fins Bois.
* I am indebted to Julius W i l e for permission to use his fine report on Cognac for
much of the information in this section.
 BRANDIES 199

Region
Grand champagne
Petite Champagne of Cognac
Borderies
Fins Bois
Bons Bois
Bois Ordinaires
DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

Bois communs dits à terroir

200 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Around all these are the Bons Bois. And advancing from the Bons Bois to
the Atlantic Ocean in the west, one passes through the Bois Ordinaires
and the Bois à Terroir.
If the Bordeaux system of classifying growths were to be followed, one
might say that the two Champagnes plus the Borderies would make up
the great crus; the Fins Bois, the bourgeois crus; and the last three, the
ordinary crus.
The nature of the soil is limy, and the more lime, the finer the wines
produced for distillation.
The grape varieties which produce the wine are predominantly the
Folle Blanche, with St. Emilion making up 30 to 40 per cent of the total,
and an even smaller quantity of Colombar, all white grapes. They pro-
duce a white wine which is fruity, thin, and slightly acid, harsh and
unpleasant to drink, with an average alcoholic content of 8 to 10 per
cent.
In Cognac, the little farmer often has his own still. Big shippers very
often own a vineyard or two but they cannot possibly own the amount
of vineyard land they need to take care of the demand for wine to pro-
duce brandy to supply the world. It is the custom in Cognac, therefore,
for all the shippers to buy the brandy from the farmer. Each farmer has
his little vineyard, gathers his grapes, makes his wine, and distils it as
soon as it falls bright or has it distilled for him by one of the regional
distillers. Distillation of brandy in France and in Cognac, is supervised
by Government inspectors. They have padlocks and seals on every one
of these stills. At vintage time the inspectors visit each farm, measure the
wine, and tell the farmer how much he can distil from such an amount.
The grapes are picked, pressed, and allowed to ferment, then dumped
into the stills or alembics—skins, pips, and all. These impurities are nec-
essary to give the full character to the brandy. The stills are the old-
fashioned pot stills; there are no modern patent stills in Cognac. Natu-
rally, when you have so many different men carrying out this process of
distillation, you will have a variety, so each shipper examines and tastes
the young, new brandy. Sometimes the farmers will decide to keep a
puncheon or so of brandy, but usually they sell it as soon as it has been
distilled. At that time, as with other spirits, it is colorless and has a sharp,
but fruity, coppery bouquet and taste. This coppery character, "goût de
cuivre," passes after the brandy has been in wood for a year.
At the distillery, the wine is received in large wooden casks, demi-
muids of about 157 gallons capacity. As the wine producers make wine
both for consumption and distillation, there is always the temptation to
mix the lees and other deposits from the drinkable wine with the wine
to be distilled. The new wine, therefore, passing from the receiving room
 201
BRANDIES
to the stills, goes through settling basins where gravity draws out the
excess impurities. The wine now enters the still.
The distilling apparatus consists of a simple boiler, heated directly by
a coal or wood fire. On top of the boiler is a metal hood to collect the
vapors before they pass through to the condenser. This condenser is sim­
ply a pipe coiled inside of a large container which is continually supplied
with cold water to provide the difference in temperature necessary to
condense the vapors which then trickle out into a receiving can. All the
metal used in a still of this type is pure copper.
The conversion of the wine into eau-de-vie de Charente is accomplished
in two operations: the premiere chauffe and the bonne chauffe. The first
gives a distillation of about 30 per cent alcoholic strength, which is then
redistilled to give the eau-de-vie. The liquid coming from the condenser
commences at a very high alcoholic content which eventually goes down
to zero when the distillation is finished.
The most important thing in the distillation of Cognac is regularity:
regularity of procedure, regularity of heating, and regularity of quan­
tity. The alembics work continuously, twenty-four hours a day, seven
days a week, during the distilling season, which lasts from three to eight
months, depending on the quantity of the vintage.
As it comes from the alembic, the brandy is colorless, has about 7 0 per
cent of alcohol, and a fruity, coppery taste and smell which come more
from the newly formed ethers than from the copper in the still.
Cognac is aged in casks made of "limousin oak", obtained from the
forest of Limoges. The cooperage must be very good to stand up for 40
to 50 years. The casks are laid away in deep light-tight cellars.
In the cask the Cognac changes by action of the wood and by contact
with the oxygen in the air which enters through the pores of the wood,
between the staves, and by the bung. In the same way that the air enters,
the brandy evaporates, so there is a continual, inevitable loss in volume.
As the alcohol evaporates more rapidly than the water and other con­
stituents of the brandy, there is also a diminution of strength, rapid dur­
ing the first few years, becoming more gradual after that, the average
being about 1 per cent per year. During this time the brandy gradually
changes from a colorless state, taking on a beautiful amber tone, and the
taste and perfume are changed, so that which finally results is a finished
Cognac, a delicate mellow liqueur with a natural bouquet of grape
blossoms.
Today the demand is for qualities which remain the same, year in and
year out, and therefore there are few vintage Cognacs in existence. This
requires large stocks being held by the brandy merchant, and judicious
and exact blending.
202 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

This coupage, or blending, is done many months before bottling. The

various brandies are put into tremendous oaken vats, brought down to
shipping strength—from 42 to 44 per cent alcohol as required—by the
addition of distilled water. Coloring matter (caramel) is added if neces­
sary. Inside these vats, wooden, propeller-like paddles rotate from time
to time, thoroughly mixing the brandies. In several months' time, the
blend, thoroughly "married," is put in bottles, cased, and is ready for
market.
The French Government has passed laws to protect the public as to
what is and is not Cognac. It supplies every purchaser with a certificate,
called an Acquit Regional Jaune d'Or. This has nothing to do with age;
it merely guarantees that the product comes from Cognac.
The various qualities of Cognacs are generally indicated by stars: one,
two, or three, in ascending quality. All wine people are superstitious. One
of their firmest beliefs is that comet years produce fine wines. The legend
goes that in the comet year of 1811, when a superb brandy was produced,
one of the shippers decided to designate the brandy of that year with a
star. An equally excellent brandy was produced in the following year and
this he designated by two stars. By this time he had acquired the habit,
but fortunately he stopped when he reached five stars. The firm of Hen-
nessy claims to have originated the system. The stars on the label have no
age significance. Each house blends its brandies for uniformity of quality,
which is maintained year in and year out. The standards represented by
the stars vary with the different houses. For instance, all "3 star" brands
will not be alike, for with one house it might be a 10 year brandy, with
another a 6 year brandy, and with still another a 20 year brandy.
Aside from the matter of stars on the label, all brandy houses han­
dling better quality brandies use letters to indicate quality. And the
letters, oddly enough, represent not French words—but English. They
represent the following qualities:

E means Especial S means Superior

F means Fine P means Pale
V means Very X means Extra
O means Old C means Cognac

For instance, when you see on the neck label of a bottle of Cognac the
letters V.S., they mean Very Superior; S.F.C., means Superior Fine
Cognac, and so forth.
There is a good deal of misunderstanding about the question of age
in Cognac. It improves in the wood for roughly fifty to fifty-five years.
The cost of aging the brandy for this length of time is very high, as the
 BRANDIES 203
losses through evaporation and the risk of aging too long are considerable,
and make the ultimate selling prices so excessive that even millionaires
would refuse to pay them. Once the Cognac is bottled, it neither varies
nor improves. A Cognac bottled in 1900 will taste exactly the same today
as it did the day it was placed in the glass.
The romantic nonsense about the 80 and 104 year old so-called
Napoleon Brandies is nothing but a come-on for the gullible amateur.
The question naturally arises: "What is the best age for Cognac?" To
quote M. Georges Roullet of Cognac, France: "Cognac is like a woman.
She is at her best between the ages of 25 and 40." He obviously knows
Cognac as well as he knows the ladies.
From the consumer's point of view, there are several questions which
are frequently asked.
"What is 'Fine Champagne'?" This means that the brandies have
been made from grapes grown either in the Grande or Petite Cham­
pagne; consequently a Fine Champagne Cognac should be very good.
"What is Fine de la Maison?" In France every restaurant includes
among its list of brandies a Fine de la Maison. This is its "bar" brandy,
and can be anything the worthy boniface wishes to buy. More than likely
it will be "everything but" Cognac, and will usually be a sound enough
French brandy. It does not mean that it is "Fine Champagne Cognac."
When you order a "Fine" (pronounced feen) all you can expect is brandy
of some sort.
As for the "snifters," they are not best for the appreciation of Cognac.
The large body and relatively small opening are good, but the size re­
quires too much to be put into each glass. The glass should never be
larger than one capable of being held and warmed in one hand.
The question of bottles is also important. An old bottle means noth­
ing. Alcoholic liquors do not change in corked bottles. Much better is
an old brandy from the wood in a gleaming, newly labeled container.
Large magnum bottles are bad. It is true that a bottle of Cognac need
not be consumed at one sitting like a bottle of wine. However, it stands
to reason that the larger the bottle, the longer it remains partly full, and
the combination of evaporation and oxidation in contact with air in
time results in a flat and lifeless drink.
A good test of a fine Cognac is to empty a glass after it has been thor­
oughly wetted on the inside by the brandy. The glass will retain its deli­
cious aroma for hours, and even days.

ARMAGNAC

Second only to Cognac is the Armagnac brandy produced in the De­

partment of Gers, southeast of Bordeaux. The center of the trade is
204 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Condom. The principal vine, as in Cognac, is the Folle Blanche, here

called the Piqué-poul, plus the Colombard, Jurançon and Meslier.
The only essential difference in the system of distilling Armagnac and
-
Cognac is that in the former the original and redistillation operations
are continuous whereas in the latter they comprise two separate opera­
tions. Another difference lies in the fact that the Armagnac aging casks
are made of black oak of Gascony.
There are some who prefer Armagnac to Cognac, because it is often
shipped as vintage brandy, and has a drier, harder taste than the care­
fully vatted Cognacs. This is a matter of taste.

MARC
Brandies distilled from the grape pomace of the wine press are called
Eau de Vie de Marc (pronounced mar), and are obtained in various parts
of France, but notably in Burgundy. They have a straw, woody taste and
character much appreciated by some connoisseurs.
Grappa brandy, produced in Italy and California, is also obtained
from the grape pomace. In California, Grappa is generally stored in
paraffined barrels, which prevents its taking color from the wood. Grappa
is usually quite colorless, and sharp in taste.

SPANISH BRANDY
As the Sherry vintner needed brandy to fortify his wine, it was in­
evitable, that in time some mature brandy would accumulate and be
tasted. It was found to be pleasant and eventually a market was devel­
oped for it. Spanish brandy is distilled from Sherry wines, and has a dis­
tinctiveflavorwhich is much different from Cognac or Armagnac. It is a
sweeter brandy.
The various qualities are distinguished by brand names. The outstand­
ing houses shipping brandies are: Pedro Domecq, Gonzales Byass, and
Manuel Fernandez. Spanish brandies have become quite popular here
since Repeal, though they were practically unknown formerly. Spanish
brandy is one of the best foreign brandies produced outside of France.

PORTUGUESE BRANDY
Brandy has been distilled in Portugal in commercial quantities ever
since Port wine, as we know it today, was developed. Therefore brandy
distilling know-how was always there, but very little effort was ever made
to develop an export market. It was only when World War II shut off the
source of supply for Cognac and French brandies, that American im­
porters turned to Portugal. During the war years, vast quantities were
imported into the United States, and today, although the quantities
 BRANDIES 205
brought in are more modest, it is interesting to note that many consumers
found the taste of Portuguese brandy to their liking. As a result a steady
satisfactory volume is imported annually, which has exceeded the quantity
of Spanish brandy imports practically every year since the trade was
started in the early 1940s.
Similar to Spanish brandy, with its distinctive flavor from the Sherry
wines, Portugese brandy, being distilled from the same wines of the Douro
(Port) region, has its own bouquet and flavor strongly reminiscent of
Port wine.
AMERICAN BRANDY

Almost all of the beverage brandy distilled in the United States is

obtained in California from wines of that State, where, since Repeal,
production has averaged about three million gallons annually. In addi­
tion to this, there is an average annual production of approximately
thirteen million gallons of "high proof" brandy which is used in the
processing of fortified wines and as a base for cordials.
Beverage brandy is produced from selected lots of wine which possess
characteristics especially suitable for brandy. The pot still, such as pre­
dominates in Cognac, is to be found in some brandy distilleries, but the
"patent" or continuous still is preferred in California because it yields an
extremely clean distillate and at the same time retains the highly desired
congenerics of the wine when distillation is performed at appropriate
proof strength. It is also more efficient and produces a more uniform
product.
White oak barrels of 50 gallons capacity are used for the storage and
aging, during which time the wood imparts the characteristic oak flavor
and a light golden color to the brandy.
Ample stocks of sound, mature American brandy (260,000 barrels) have
now been accumulated, despite the fact that the industry was compelled
to start from scratch in 1933. However, official government records show
that consumption of California beverage brandy has more than doubled
between 1934 and 1939.
California brandy, like Armagnac or Spanish brandy, is different from
Cognac brandy and must stand on its own merits. Time is the only
maturer of spirits and each year there will be larger stocks of older and
older brandies available for the market.

BRANDIES OF OTHER LANDS

As I have said before, wherever wine is made, brandy is distilled, but

outside of South Africa, where a good quality brandy is produced, and
the Pisco of Peru, the other wine regions' distillates are not sold with
much success outside of their home markets.
206 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

PERU. Pisco takes its name from the port in southern Peru, whence
it is shipped. This brandy is distilled from muscat wines produced in the
Ica Valley, near Pisco. Pisco is matured in porous clay jars. It is con­
sumed in Peru quite young.
Pisco Punch, which is really a "sour" is the most popular cocktail in
Peru, and Chile also. It is a delightfully pleasant drink, but I assure you—
most insidious.
Muscat brandies produced both in Chile and Argentina, labelled Pisco,
are sold locally, but not exported as such.

GREEK BRANDY

A great deal of brandy is distilled in Greece, but here, as with their

wines, they do not like their brandy au naturel, and flavor it with some­
thing or other. A sweet, dark, resinous brandy, which is quite popular
and sells in fair quantities, is Metaxa.
Another, flavored with anise, is Ouzo, the popular aperitif of Greece,
usually drunk mixed with water as a tall beverage. When the water and
ice are added, the concoction turns a milky, opalescent hue. It is pleasant
in taste because of the anise flavor.
Yet another drink of the Eastern Levant Coast is Raki, which is ob­
tained from many things, but usually from wine and figs, dates, and
other fruits. The resultant spirit, generally drunk when young, is harsh
and fiery.

APPLE BRANDY

The two principal sources of apple brandy are the United States and
France. Here it is commonly called Apple Jack, while in France it is
called Calvados, from the Department of Calvados in Normandy, center
of apple and cider production in France. The chief difference between
Calvados and Apple Jack is in the aging. Calvados is generally sold after
it has aged in wood for ten years, whereas ours is sold after it is two to
five years in wood. Our brandies, too, are often bottled at 100° proof,
while theirs are under 90° proof.
The method of production is simple. The cider is made only from
perfect, sound, ripe cider apples. After fermentation is complete, and no
sugar remains unfermented, it is distilled. In France pot stills are used,
and the first, or low, wines must be redistilled to obtain the high wines or
0
brandy. They are distilled out at around 140 proof. Here we use patent
stills and distil out at between 140° and 160° proof. Apple brandy is aged
in oak barrels and acquires its color from the wood. It has a pleasant, but
very definite apple flavor.
 BRANDIES 207
OTHER FRUIT BRANDIES

When a mash of a given fruit is allowed to ferment and the alcohol

distilled therefrom, the result is known as brandy. The principal fruits
so used are the small, black, wild cherry of Central Western Europe, and
the plum.
From the cherry we obtain a brandy which is known throughout the
world as Kirsch or Kirschwasser (water of cherries), while the brandy
obtained from plums is known by several names, depending on the coun­
try of origin: Slivovitz, if Hungary or Rumania; Quetsch or Mirabelle
when it comes from Alsace in France.
These brandies are made in the following manner. The fully ripened
fruit is gathered and thoroughly mixed or mashed with wooden paddles
in a wooden tub, where it is allowed to ferment—stones and all. When
fermentation is complete, the entire contents of the tub is placed in a
pot still. It is distilled twice. In the mixing or' mashing some of the
stones will have been broken or crushed, and from the stones a small
amount of oil will be distilled over with the spirit. This oil imparts the
characteristic bitter almond flavor usually found in good Kirsch or
Slivovitz.
After distillation is complete, Kirsch is stored either in paraffin lined
casks or earthenware containers to mature. If aged in plain oak, it would
take on color, which is not desirable. Slivovitz, on the other hand, is
preferred with color, so it is matured in wood.
The Schwartzwalder or Black Forest Kirsch of Germany is recognized
as the standard of quality, but its price has always been much too high
in relation to the price usually fetched by the Kirsch of Alsace or Switzer­
land, which I feel are its equals.
A little true blackberry and apricot brandy is distilled in Hungary. The
former is shipped under the simple appellation of blackberry brandy,
and it is a truly magnificent product. It has the flavor of the blackberry,
and the dark color which is imparted by adding some of the darkly-
colored natural juice to the matured spirit.
Apricot brandy, labeled Barat Palinka, is shipped in a typically Hun­
garian odd-shaped bottle. It has a short squat body and a long, fairly
wide neck. The brandy is excellent, has the apricot flavor and color,
with an undertone of stone (almond), and is ratherfiery,but not unpleas­
antly so.

USES OF BRANDY

Aside from their medicinal uses, which are well-established, all brandies
and, of course, those obtained from wine in particular, find their primary
208 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

use as after-dinner drinks, when they are most attractive neat, although
brandy and soda is a pleasant drink, after dinner or at any time when
a long, refreshing and relaxing drink is desired. Brandies are also excel­
lent in coffee.
There are many uses in the kitchen, particularly in the case of Kirsch,
which is a delightful addition to any fresh fruit cup, and as one of the
flavorings in those delicious French pancakes, called Crepes au Kirsch.
All brandies may be used in making mixed drinks of all kinds.
 19
Whiskies

AFTER, THE PROCESS of distillation was discovered, it was inevitable that

man should use the product closest at hand, easiest to obtain, and least
expensive. As a result, where the grape grows abundantly, brandy is
produced; where sugar cane is grown, rum is made; and where there is
an abundance of grain, whiskey is distilled.
The origin of the word "whiskey" is a never-ending source of argument
between the Irish and the Scotch. According to old records in Ireland,
the product was first called uisgebeatha; accordingly to equally old
records in Scotland, it is written uisgebaugh. Both words mean the same
thing, "water of life," and they have been Anglicized to our present-day
"whiskey." Incidentally, "whiskey" is always spelled with an "e", except
in the case of Scotch, when it is "whisky."

SCOTCH WHISKY

In the beginning, every Highland laird had his own still, and the
spirits obtained were rough, harsh, with a smoky pungency appreciated
only by the Caledonians. The whiskies were distilled freely and paid no
taxes. In 1814, distillation from all stills of less than 500 gallons capacity
was prohibited in Scotland, and the law almost caused a revolution. How­
ever, the government finally convinced the irate Highlanders that they
would be wiser to sell their whisky legally, and within a few years illicit
distilling became a rare thing in Scotland. A similar situation prevailed
in Ireland at the same time.
Four regions of Scotland produce whisky: the Highlands, the Lowlands,
Campbeltown, and Islay (pronounced I-lay). Each produces a whisky
with an individual character.

THE MAKING OF SCOTCH WHISKY

Scotch whisky is obtained primarily from barley, which is grown in

Scotland preferably, but of late years barley from California, Canada,
India, Africa, and other countries has been imported for distilling pur­
poses.
209
210 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Scotland
DESIGNED BY HAROLD J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER
 WHISKIES 211

There are five main processes in the making of Scotch: first, malting;
second, mashing; third, fermenting; fourth, distilling; andfifth,maturing
and blending.
On arrival at the distillery, the barley goes into the barley-receiving
room where it is dressed; that is, sieved, or passed over screens so
that small and inferior grain will be eliminated, after which the best
grain is stored. When required for use, it is placed in tanks, called
"steeps," where it is soaked in water until thoroughly softened. It is then
spread out on the floor of the malting house, and sprinkled with warm
water for about three weeks, during which time the grain begins to
germinate, that is, to sprout.
When the sprouts are about three-quarters of an inch long, the water
is turned off and the grain is known as "green malt." Please note that
it is already malt, for malt is germinated grain. During this germination
process, a chemical change has occurred in the grain which is important
in its future function of producing whisky. Some of the starches have
been changed into diastase, which has the property of converting the
balance of the starch into sugars—maltose and dextrin—which are fer­
mentable, whereas the starch in its original state is not.
The green malt is transferred to a kiln, where it rests on a screen di­
rectly above a peat * fire. Like green wood, peat gives off a much more
acrid and oily smoke than soft coal. This swirls around the grain, which
becomes so impregnated with the aroma of the smoke that it is carried
over into the spirit later distilled from it.
The kilning, or drying, process is very important, as it is here that the
malt acquires a good part of its character, and a variation occurs here
in the various regions; that is, the malt in the Lowlands is kilned less
than in the Highlands; whereas the Campbeltown and Islay grains are
more heavily roasted.
The kilned malt is now screened to remove the culm or dried sprouts,
after which it goes to the mill room where it is ground into meal.
The next step is mashing. The ground malt is thoroughly mixed with
warm water in a mash-tub where it soaks until the water has liquefied all
of the starches, and the diastase has converted them into sugars. When
the water has absorbed all of the goodness from the grain, it is drawn off,
cooled, and is known as wort.
The wort now passes into the fermenting vats where a small quantity
of carefully cultivated pure yeast is added and fermentation takes place.
The yeast acts upon the sugars in the wort in the same manner as the
* Peat is coal in its primary stage, and consists of partially carbonized vegetable
material, usually found in bogs. Pressed and dried peat is generally used for fuel in
both Scotland and Ireland.
 212 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

natural yeasts act upon the sugars in grape juice, producing alcohol and
carbonic acid gas. When fermentation is completed, the liquid is known
as beer, or wash. Up to this point the process is identical with that of the
brewing of ales and beers, except for the omission of hops.
The beer now goes into a pot still which is known as the wash still.
The result of the first distillation is a distillate of low alcoholic strength,
which is known as low wines. The low wines pass into the spirit still
where they are redistilled. The first and last part of the distillation (the
heads and tails—called the feints) are gathered separately from the middle
portion, which is the useful part of the distillation. At the beginning and
at the end of the distillation operation, too high a percentage of impuri­
ties are carried over with the spirit, which, if used, would impair the
flavor of the spirit when matured. The feints, however, contain a sub­
stantial quantity of useful alcohol and are returned to the spirit still
with the next charge of low wines, and the alcohol is distilled out. The
impurities are disposed of with the residual slop from the spirit still
operation, that is, the waste material which is thrown out.
The useful spirit, distilled off at between 140° and 142°, is now known
as whisky, and flows into a spirit vat from where it is put in casks. These
casks, generally made of American white oak, vary in size from 33 to 144
American gallons in capacity. The different sizes are used for convenience.
They may be new or old, and very often are casks in which Sherry has
been shipped. More often than not, the casks have been previously used
for maturing whisky.
At the time of barreling the whisky is reduced in proof to 124° to
0
126.8 by the addition of water. According to Dr. P. Schidrowitz, whose
notes are quoted by Peter Valaer in his excellent paper on Scotch
Whisky, "it is held that the best water is that which has its origin as a

Scotch whisky distillery views. (Left) Mashman working over a vat of mash in fer­
mentation. (Right) Large pot stills generally used in the modem Highland distillery.
Both views taken at Towiemore Distillery, Glenlivet, Speyside, Aberdeenshire. (Photos-
Peter Dawson)
 WHISKIES 213
spring served with water which has passed through a red granite forma­
tion, and which, after rising from its source, passes through peaty coun­
try. Such waters are generally very soft, and possess certain qualities
which are apparently due to the peaty soil or heather-clad moor through
or over which the water passes on its way to the distillery." The waters
of Loch Katrine are reputed to be of the finest for Scotch whisky.
The whisky remains in cask, under government supervision, from the
time it is distilled until it is sold.
Until 1853, Scotch whiskies were always "straight" whiskies, but about
that time a few distillers began the practice of blending whiskies from
various sources and widely separated distilleries, all in Scotland, of course.
The firm of Andrew Usher 8c Company is credited with beginning this
practice. Before this time, the taste for Scotch was confined to Scotland,
but after blending became a general practice, Scotch Whisky became
popular in England and throughout the world, as the blend of unmalted
grain whisky with malts produced a drink generally liked.
As already pointed out, the four geographical divisions from which
whiskies made entirely from malted barley are obtained are the High­
lands, Lowlands, Campbeltown and Islay. To these malted whiskies, we
must now add unmalted whisky, known to the trade as grain whisky.
Grain whisky in Scotland is whisky and not neutral spirits, as some peo­
ple believe. The Scotch grain whiskies are distilled out at slightly over
180° proof. They are reduced to 124° proof when barreled in Sherry
casks for aging.
The blending is done when the whiskies are from three to four years
old. A master blender examines them and indicates the exact propor­
tion of Highland, Lowland, Campbeltown, and Islay malts and of grain
whisky which are to be married. This is accomplished by placing the
whiskies in a large vat where they are thoroughly mixed both by rotating
paddles and by compressed air blown up from the bottom. The whisky
is then returned to Sherry casks for a further period of maturing.
The Immature Spirits Act of Great Britain specifically states, that no
whisky may be sold for consumption in the British Isles under three
years old. By the reciprocal trade agreement between Great Britain and
the United States, Scotch and Irish whiskies imported into this country
must be at least four years old to enjoy the fifty per cent reduction in
duty in effect at the present time.
The usual Scotch blend is composed of from 30 to 50 per cent of malt
whisky, the balance being grain whisky. The original object of using
grain whiskies, which are always distilled in patent stills, was to reduce
the cost, but in doing so a lighter whisky was produced, which appealed
 214 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
much more to the other peoples of the world than had the heavier,
smokier Scotch whiskies previously made.
The essential difference between blends consists in the proportions
used of the four types of malts. Of these, of course, the Highland malts
are considered the finest, and are always the most costly. They are fairly
light in body and flavor, and do not have too much smoke. The finest
Highland section is Banffshire, and within it the Glenlivet and Speyside
regions are considered the best. Next in importance is Moray. Lowland
malts are also light in body, but not as smoky in flavor. Incidentally,
almost all of the grain whisky distilleries are in the Lowlands. Camp­
beltown malts are very heavy in body and quite smoky. The Islay malts
are also very heavy, smoky, and pungent.
The secret of fine Scotch whisky lies in the art of the blender. On this
art depends the polish, smoothness, and uniformity of the whisky. There
are some 130 distilleries in Scotland and Ireland producing over 4,000
brands or blends.

LIQUEUR SCOTCH

A Liqueur Scotch Whisky is one which, through proper aging and

blending, has acquired a mellow softness. Unfortunately the term is
rather loosely employed and amounts to little more than a phrase on the
label. It does apply, however, in the case of the finer, older whiskies, par­
ticularly the twelve year olds.

AGE IN WHISKY

We seem to have a national "age-phobia" which frequently leads us

astray. A Scotch whisky with a 10 year old age statement on the label is
not necessarily a better whisky than one with no age statement at all.
Naturally, aging is important in making a Scotch or any other whisky mel­
low and more palatable, but the quality of the whisky and the skill of
the blenders' hand must be there first. A poor whisky, or one that has
been poorly blended, will continue to be a poor whisky, regardless of its
age.

IRISH WHISKEY

There is a common belief that Irish whiskey is a potato whiskey. This

is not true. In Eire (Irish Free State) the whiskey is obtained from malt,
unmalted barley, and other grains, principally wheat, rye, and oats. Be­
cause of this, it differs somewhat from the whiskey of Northern Ireland,
which is obtained entirely from barley malt.
The malt used, both in Eire and Northern Ireland, is dried in a kiln
which has a solid floor, so that the smoke from the fuel used has no op-
 WHISKIES 215
portunity to come in contact with the grain. The malt is not "smoke-
cured", as is the case in Scotland.
Irish whiskies are nearly always all pot still distillations, and while
often shipped as a blend of whiskies of the same distillery, they are also
shipped as unblended straight whiskies. Northern Ireland malt whiskies
are sometimes blended with grain whiskies.
Most Irish whiskies are seven years old or more before they are shipped.
Irish is a particularly smooth whiskey, but with a great deal of body and
a clean, malty flavor.
It is used in the same manner as Scotch whisky.

THE DISTILLING OF WHISKEY IN AMERICA

Early American settlers brought spiritous liquors with them, as they

were considered essential in withstanding the hardships of an ocean voy­
age, and a medicine in cases of illness in the new, savage land. For a long
time, spirits had to be imported from Europe.
There is a record of experimental distilling in 1660, but it was not until
the early eighteenth century that the distilling of whiskey began to de­
velop. The grains used along the Eastern seaboard were rye and barley.
As the settlements began extending westward, however, it became ap­
parent that the transportation of newly grown grain back to the populous
seaboard cities was difficult for the settlers, particularly those in western
Pennsylvania. They found it was simpler to distil their grain, both rye
and corn, into whiskey. It not only kept longer, but was easier to trans­
port to the cities. Whiskey and furs, indeed, became the best means of
exchange, particularly during the Revolutionary War period when Con­
tinental currency was worth less than five cents on the dollar.
Whiskey played a prominent part in our early history, in determining
our right and ability to be a self-governed nation. It happened in this
way. Whiskey had always been distilled in small, family-owned distilleries,
without legal interference from any government. In 1791, not long after
George Washington became President, money being a crying need for
the new nation, an excise tax was levied on whiskey.
The independent Pennsylvania distillers resented the taxing of their
product and said so in no uncertain terms. The tax collectors in some
cases were even tarred and feathered. There were rioting and stormy
scenes in these "western" communities, and President Washington, in
great haste, sent a force of militia to quell the "insurrection." It was done
without bloodshed and accomplished its object. While in itself the "in­
surrection" was of minor importance, it was of tremendous significance to
the future of the Federal government, and is still known as the "Whiskey
Rebellion."
 2l6 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Many of the disgruntled Dutch, Scotch, and Irish farmer-distillers de­

cided to move out of reach of the tax collector, which meant going
farther west into Indian territory. They found the proper water for
distilling in Southern Indiana and Kentucky.
The first whiskey distilled in Kentucky was obtained from corn at the
mill of one Elijah Craig in Georgetown, Bourbon County. They called
it Bourbon County whiskey, and the name Bourbon has remained as
the designation of whiskies made from corn (maize).
The three important whiskey-distilling areas in the United States are
not located where they are from pure chance but because of the most
important factor in the making of whiskey—the quality of the water. It
comes from springs that pass up through layer on layer of limestone rock.
The limestone mantel runs along Western Pennsylvania, cuts across
Southern Indiana and over into Kentucky. There is another isolated
limestone region in Maryland around Baltimore.

MAKING OF AMERICAN WHISKIES

The early distillers used very crude and primitive equipment. Fer­
mentation was carried on in open mash tubs, the yeast being the wild
varieties which the air afforded. Since that day tremendous changes have
taken place.
The making of American whiskies is basically the same as the making
of grain whiskies in Scotland. The grains, of course, are different, and
the whiskey is distilled out at a lower proof.
Briefly the steps are as follows:
1. The grain upon arrival at the distillery is carefully inspected and
cleaned of all dust.
2. It is ground in the grist mill to a meal.
3. The meal, together with a small amount of malt, is cooked to con­
vert the starches.
4. The cooled "wort" is yeasted with pure culture yeast, and goes to
the fermenting vats to become "beer."
-
5 . The beer goes into a patent or double column still. The result is
whiskey, which is distilled out at below 160° proof. It is now reduced in
proof to 100° to 103° by the addition of pure well water.
6. The new whiskey is placed in a new charred white oak barrel to
mature in a bonded warehouse, where it must remain until the Internal
Revenue tax has been paid.

ORIGIN OF CHARRING BARRELS

No one knows exactly how the advantage of charring barrels was

learned. One legend is that as a result of a fire in a warehouse in
 WHISKIES 217

Flowline Chart of a
modern distillery,
showing the var
ious steps of the
grain from the
rail
road car to the
finished whiskey
being filled into

the charred oak

barrel the gin
still is often found
in the larger
plants.

NOTE: THIS DRAWING IS MOERLE AFTER A SECTIONAL

VIEW OF THE HIRA WAKER DISTILLERY AR*T PERIA ILLINOIS
DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN - EXECUTED BY C.W. MASSAGUER

Jamaica some barrels of rum were heavily charred. After some time, it
was learned that the rum in the charred barrels had acquired both color
and quality which it had lacked before.
Another explanation is that in order to bend the barrel staves into
the proper shape for the barrel, the early Kentuckians heated them be­
fore an open fire, and often they became charred. Discovering that the
more charred the staves the more palatable the whiskey, charring became
an accepted practice. It is unlikely that both of these stories are true, it is
possible that neither of them is true. But it is probable that the virtues of
charring the barrels in which whiskey was to be stored were stumbled
upon quite by accident, as have been many valuable discoveries.

SWEET AND SOUR MASH

There are two yeasting processes used in America,—the "sweet-mash"
or yeast-mash process, and the "sour-mash" or yeasting-back process. The
sour-mash process is used primarily in making Bourbon whiskey.
A sweet-mash is produced by adding all or almost all freshly developed
yeast to the mash, i.e., little or no spent beer from a previous fermenta­
tion is mixed with the fresh mash. It is allowed to ferment from 36 to 50
hours and the fermenter can be, and usually is, refilled almost imme­
diately upon being emptied.
A sour-mash is produced by adding at least one-third the volume of the
fermenter of spent beer (working yeast), from a previous fermentation,
 218 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

to the fresh mash and fresh yeast. The mash is allowed to ferment from
72 to 96 hours. Fermentation generally takes place in open fermenting
vats at low temperatures. Upon being emptied the fermenters are steril­
ized, aereated and allowed to "sweeten" for 24 hours before being used
again.
The use of the term "sour" is misleading because "sour-mash" whiskey
has nothing sour about it. On the contrary, I find "sour-mash" Bourbon
to be sweeter in taste than "sweet-mash" whiskies.

PROOF CHANGES THROUGH AGING

A spirit is made up of alcohol, water, and minute quantities of other

substances, the bulk of the liquid being water and alcohol.
Spirits are generally matured in porous containers so that the air can
seep in to oxidize and mellow the alcohol. The most common container
is made of wood (generally oak). Although it cannot be seen with the
naked eye, wood is a porous substance and when liquid is stored in a
wooden barrel, even though it be tightly closed, some of it will seep
through, that is, evaporate or escape through the pores of the wood.
To the best of my knowledge, all aged spirits such as brandy, rum,
Scotch whisky, and so forth, are barreled for aging at proofs varying
from 124° up to 150° and more. These spirits lose in alcoholic strength
as they mature.
American whiskies on the other hand, are barreled at 100° to 102°
proof (50 to 51% of alcohol) and as they mature their alcoholic strength
increases.
To illustrate this point, let us take a 50 gallon barrel of new whiskey
at 100 proof, i.e. 25 gallons of alcohol and 25 gallons of water. After four
years of aging, it is found to have lost 10 gallons of liquid, but on measur-

Modern whiskey distillery. (Left) Beer still and rectifying column which rise through
several floors of the still-house. (Right) Control and instrument board showing tail-
boxes for the beer still, aldehyde column, and fusel oil column, in order from left to
right. (Photos—Schenley Distilling Corp.—Whitney-Rullman)
 WHISKIES 219

(Left) Tasting new whiskey in the laboratory. (Right) Whiskey ageing in new charred
oak barrels, stored in the government bonded warehouse, under ideal controlled tem­
perature and atmospheric conditions. (Photos—Hiram Walker & Sons Inc.—Venard
Film Corp.)

ing the alcoholic strength, it is found to be 110° proof. This means that
55% of the 40 gallons remaining is alcohol (22 gallons), and the remain­
ing 18 gallons is water.

STANDARDS OF IDENTITY FOR WHISKIES

Under the Federal Alcohol Administration Act the Secretary of the

Treasury has issued Regulations No. 5, as amended, establishing the
standards of identity for whiskies as follows:
CLASS 1. Neutral spirits or alcohol.—"Neutral spirits" or "alcohol" are
0
distilled spirits distilled from any material at or above 190 proof,
whether or not such proof is subsequently reduced. During the period of
the unlimited national emergency proclaimed by the President on May
27, 1941, the term "neutral spirits" shall also include any spirits distilled
at less than 190° proof, which are so distilled, or so treated in the process
of distillation, or so refined by other processes after distillation, as to lack
the taste, aroma, and other characteristics of whisky, brandy, rum, or
other potable beverage spirits, but the containers of such product shall
not be labeled as "alcohol."
CLASS 2. Whisky.—"Whisky" is an alcoholic distillate from a fermented
0
mash of grain distilled at less than 190 proof in such manner that the
distillate possesses the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed
to whisky, and withdrawn from the cistern room of the distillery at not
more than 110° and not less than 80° proof, whether or not such proof
is further reduced prior to bottling to not less than 80° proof; and also
includes mixtures of the foregoing distillates for which no specific stand­
ards of identity are prescribed herein. Those types of whiskey specified in
subsections (a) through (j) below shall be deemed "American type"
whiskies.
 220 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

(a) "Rye whisky," "bourbon whisky," "wheat whisky," "malt whisky,"

or "rye malt whisky" is whisky which has been distilled at not exceeding
160° proof from a fermented mash of not less than 51 percent rye grain,
corn grain, wheat grain, malted barley grain, or malted rye grain, re­
spectively, and, if produced on or after March 1, 1938, stored in charred
new oak containers; and also includes mixtures of such whiskies where
the mixture consists exclusively of whiskies of the same type. "Corn
0
whisky" is whisky which has been distilled at not exceeding 160 proof
from a fermented mash of not less than 80 percent corn grain, stored in
uncharred oak containers or reused charred oak containers, and not sub­
jected, in the process of distillation or otherwise, to treatment with
charred wood; and also includes mixtures of such whisky.
(b) "Straight whisky" is an alcoholic distillate from a fermented mash
0
of grain distilled at not exceeding 160 proof and withdrawn from the
cistern room of the distillery at not more than 110° and not less than 80°
proof, whether or not such proof is further reduced prior to bottling to
less than 80° proof, and is aged for not less than 24 calendar months.
The term "straight whisky" also includes mixtures of straight whisky
which, by reason of being homogeneous, are not subject to the rectifica­
tion tax under the internal revenue laws.
(c) "Straight rye whisky" is straight whisky distilled from a fermented
mash of grain of which not less than 51 percent is rye grain.
(d) (1) "Straight bourbon whisky" is straight whisky distilled from a
fermented mash of grain of which not less than 51 percent is corn grain.
(2) "Straight corn whisky" is straight whisky distilled from a fer­
mented mash of grain of which not less than 80 percent is corn grain, aged
for the required period in uncharred oak containers, and not subjected,
in the process of distillation or otherwise, to treatment with charred wood.
(e) "Straight wheat whisky" is straight whisky distilled from a fer­
mented mash of grain of which not less than 51 percent is wheat grain.
(/) "Straight malt whisky" and "straight rye malt whisky" are straight
whiskies distilled from a fermented mash of grain of which not less than
51 percent of the grain is malted barley or malted rye, respectively.
(g) "Blended whisky" (whisky—a blend) is a mixture which contains
at least 20 percent by volume of 100° proof straight whisky and, sep­
arately or in combination, whisky or neutral spirits, if such mixture at
the time of bottling is not less than 80° proof.
(h) "Blended rye whisky" (rye whisky—a blend), "blended bourbon
whisky" (bourbon whisky—a blend), "blended corn whisky" (corn
whisky—a blend), "blended wheat whisky" (wheat whisky—a blend),
"blended malt whisky" (malt whisky—a blend), or "blended rye malt
whisky" (rye malt whisky—a blend) is blended whisky which contains
 WHISKIES 221

not less than 51 percent by volume of straight rye whisky, straight bour­
bon whisky, straight corn whisky, straight wheat whisky, straight malt
whisky, or straight rye malt whisky, respectively.
(i) "A blend of straight whiskies" (blended straight whiskies), "a
blend of straight rye whiskies" (blended straight rye whiskies), "a blend
of straight bourbon whiskies" (blended straight bourbon whiskies), "a
blend of straight corn whiskies" (blended straight corn whiskies), "a blend
of straight wheat whiskies" (blended straight wheat whiskies), "a blend of
straight malt whiskies" (blended straight malt whiskies), and "a blend
of straight rye malt whiskies" (blended straight rye malt whiskies) are
mixtures of only straight whiskies, straight rye whiskies, straight bourbon
whiskies, straight corn whiskies, straight wheat whiskies, straight malt
whiskies, or straight rye malt whiskies, respectively.
(j) "Spirit whisky" is a mixture (1) of neutral spirits and not less than
5 percent by volume of whisky, or (2) of neutral spirits and less than 20
percent by volume of straight whisky, but not less than 5 percent by
volume of straight whisky, or of straight whisky and whisky, if the result­
ing product at the time of bottling be not less than 80° proof.
(k) "Scotch whisky" is a distinctive product of Scotland, manufactured
in Scotland in compliance with the laws of Great Britain regulating the
manufacture of Scotch whisky for consumption in Great Britain, and
containing no distilled spirits less than 3 years old: Provided, That if in
fact such product as so manufactured is a mixture of distilled spirits,
such mixture is "blended Scotch whisky" (Scotch whisky—a blend).
"Scotch whisky" shall not be designated as "straight."
(l) "Irish whisky" is a distinctive product of Ireland, manufactured
either in the Irish Free State or in Northern Ireland, in compliance with
the laws of those respective territories, and containing no distilled spirits
less than 3 years old: Provided, That if in fact such product as so manu­
factured is a mixture of distilled spirits, such whisky is "blended Irish
whisky" (Irish whisky—a blend). "Irish whisky" shall not be designated as
"straight."
(m) "Canadian whisky" is a distinctive product of Canada, manufac­
tured in Canada in compliance with the laws of the Dominion of Canada
regulating the manufacture of whisky for consumption in Canada, and
containing no distilled spirits less than 2 years old: Provided, That if in
fact such product as so manufactured is a mixture of distilled spirits, such
whisky is "blended Canadian whisky" (Canadian whisky—a blend). "Ca­
nadian whisky" shall not be designated as "straight."
(n) "Blended Scotch type whisky" (Scotch type whisky—a blend) is a
mixture made outside Great Britain and composed of-
(1) Not less than 20 percent by volume of 100° proof malt
222 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
0
whisky or whiskies distilled in pot stills at not more than 160 proof,
from a fermented mash of malted barley dried over peat fire,
whether or not such proof is subsequently reduced prior to bottling
to not less than 80° proof, and
(2) Not more than 80 percent by volume of neutral spirits, or
0
whisky distilled at more than 180 proof, whether or not such
0
proof is subsequently reduced prior to bottling to not less than 8 0
proof.
(o) "Blended Irish type whisky" (Irish type whisky—a blend) is a
product made outside Great Britain or the Irish Free State and com­
posed of—
( 1 ) A mixture of distilled spirits distilled in pot stills at not more
than 171° proof, from a fermented mash of small cereal grains of which
not less than 50 percent is dried malted barley, and unmalted barley,
wheat, oats, or rye grains, whether or not such proof is subsequently re­
duced prior to bottling to not less than 80° proof; or
(2) A mixture consisting of not less than 20 percent by volume
of 100° proof malt whisky or whiskies distilled in pot stills at approx­
imately 171° proof, from a fermented mash of dried malted barley,
whether or not such proof is subsequently reduced prior to bottling to
not less than 80° proof; and
(3) Not more than 80 percent by volume of neutral spirits, or
whisky distilled at more than 180° proof, whether or not such proof is
subsequently reduced prior to bottling to not less than 8o° proof.
BOTTLED IN BOND

The term "Bottled in Bond" is generally misunderstood, not only by

the layman but too often by people in the retail liquor trade itself. The
term is not a guarantee of quality; it has reference only to the Internal
Revenue Tax. Only straight whiskies are bottled in bond.
The Bottled in Bond Act of 1894 permitted the distiller to bottle his
whiskey without paying the excise taxes, provided the whiskey was at
least four years old, was bottled at 100° proof, and under the supervision
of the United States Government Alcohol Tax Unit of the Treasury
Department. After being bottled, however, the whiskey was to remain in
the bonded warehouse until the distiller was ready to sell it, at which
time the tax had to be paid, before withdrawing the whiskey from bond.
If the distiller wishes to bottle his whiskey before it is four years old,
he must pay the taxes and withdraw the whiskey to his free warehouse.
"The bottled-in-bond stamp," reads the Treasury Department's De­
cision No. 1299, "is no guarantee as to purity or quality of the spirits,
and the government assumes no responsibility with respect to claims by
dealers in this connection in advertising bottled-in-bond spirits."
 WHISKIES 223
BLENDED WHISKIES

There are two main types of whiskey blends: blends of straight whis­
kies and spirit blends. If whiskies are blended when they are less than
four years old they will lack sufficient color, as whiskey obtains all its
natural color from the wood and char of the barrels in which it is stored.
This color deficiency is made up with caramel. It is also permissible to
add—particularly in the case of spirit blends—up to21/2per cent by vol­
ume, such helpful aromatic flavoring and coloring ingredients as Sherry
wine (a special, heavy blending Sherry made from Pedro Ximenez grapes),
prune or peach juice, and so forth.
During the past six years I have heard much discussion as to the merits
and demerits of drinking a spirit blend whiskey. A well-made spirit blend
is, in my opinion, a sound, palatable drink—not as fine as a well-made,
well-matured whiskey, nor does it have as much character, but it would
be absurd to say that the neutral spirits used in the blend are harmful.

CANADIAN WHISKIES

Canadian whiskies are obtained primarily from rye, although some

"Bourbon" is made as well. The methods of production are similar but
the procedure of maturing differs somewhat from United States stand­
ards and practices. For example, any loss from evaporation may be made
up by adding new whiskey to replace the amount lost. They may bottle
in bond when the whiskey is two years old, and they may bottle at 90°
proof. Due to the fact that Canadian whiskies are generally distilled out
at between 150° and 160° proof, whereas American distillers distil out
at 140° or lower, and to their making up for evaporation loss by neutral
spirits, Canadian whiskies are always much lighter bodied than our own
Ryes and Bourbons.

TASTE OF WHISKIES

The principal taste distinction of Scotch whisky is its smoky peat

flavor, whereas Irish whiskey has a similar barley-malt whisky character
without the smoky flavor. Both are somewhat lighter in body than
American whiskies because high proof, very light-bodied grain whiskies
are used for blending, and they are generally shipped at a lower proof,
86° to 88°. Also, because these whiskies are matured in old, previously
used cooperage they require a longer aging period. This is usually seven
to eight years, and up to twelve for the finer qualities.
Rye and Bourbon whiskies have the distinctive taste and character of
the rye and corn grains used. Because of the different methods of mash­
ing and the lower proofs at which they are distilled out, which give them
224 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
a higher congeneric content, they are both sweeter and fuller bodied
than Scotch or Irish. Furthermore, aging in new charred oak cooperage
makes it possible for the American whiskies to reach maturity at from
three to four years.

USE OF WHISKIES

Aside from their most common use as a straight drink, whiskies may
be used in numberless cocktails, punches, and other mixed drinks. They
are also very popular in long drinks, such as highballs, and so forth.
 20

Gins

GIN IS THE FIRST LIQUOR in whose production man plays a more important
part than nature. In the wines and spirits studied up to now, we have
seen that natural forces aged and developed the liquor. But here man
has manufactured the whole article. A good gin is nothing more than
an extremely pure grade of alcohol which has beenflavored.The flavor
can be imparted by one of two methods: either by the distillation of
herbs or by the addition of essential oils. In the first case, you will have
a distilled gin. In the second case, according to law, you have a com-
pounded gin—in other words, the bath-tub type gin.
Necessity is said to be the mother of invention, and gin came about as
the result of a demand for distilled spirits which were palatable to drink
and cheap to produce. Seventeenth century distilled spirits had an un-
pleasantflavorand something had to be done about it. The demand was
insistent in spite of the disastrous effect of the crude spirits on the
populace.
In the days of good Queen Anne, the poor people wanted good strong
liquor and the only way the distillers knew to satisfy this demand was
to take the lees of wine and distil out the alcohol. This, to say the least,
was a very unpalatable spirit. They experimented with various methods
of improving the taste, and finally hit upon the idea of trying different
flavorings. After several experiments they used the juniper berry as the
chief flavoring agent, because its taste pleased the greatest number of
people.
Gin was first made in Holland where it was known originally by the
French name for the juniper berry, Genièvre, which the English even-
tually Anglicized into gin. Three names were used by the Netherlands
for their gin: Hollands, Geneva (from Genièvre), and Schiedam (a place
near Rotterdam). Other gins are made in Holland but they do not come
to this country.
A taste for gin was brought back to England by soldiers returning
from the wars, and a market for it appeared when Queen Anne raised
the duties and taxes on French wines and brandies and lowered the ex-
225
226 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

cise on home-made spirits. Naturally the manufacture of this new, in­

expensive liquor flourished. In fact, gin was so cheap for a time in
England, that one innkeeper put up a sign which read:
"Drunk for a penny,
Dead drunk for two pence,
Clean straw for nothing!"
This will give you a mild idea of the kind of gin they made, though
it is unlikely that it was much worse than the kind many people drank
in America during the bath-tub gin era of the Twenties.
During the course of the years, considerable improvement has been
made in the methods of making gin; most of the manufacturers have
their own secret formulas, but in general there are only two main types:
English, or London dry gin
Hollands, Geneva, or Schiedam gin
LONDON DRY GIN

Three varieties of gin are made in England: a dry gin, Old Tom gin,
and sloe gin. Sloe gin really should not be included in a discussion of gin
as it is a liqueur, and will be discussed in Chapter 23.
In England, gin is made by taking 75 per cent corn, 15 per cent malt,
and 10 per cent of other grains. A mash is made and fermented much the
same as the mash used for the production of whiskey. After fermentation
is completed, the wort, or beer, is distilled and rectified until they get a
0 0
rather pure spirit of from 180 to 190 proof. This is reduced to about
0
120 proof by the addition of distilled water. This reduced spirit is
placed in a pot still and re-distilled in the presence of the flavoring
agent, which is primarily juniper berry. However, other ingredients are
used in very small quantities to flavor the gin; among those generally
used are: coriander seed, cardamom seed, angelica root, anise seed, bitter
almonds, caraway seed, calamus, cassia bark, fennel, orris root, licorice,
sweet and bitter orange peel.
0
The new spirit that comes out is of a much higher proof than the 120
proof at which it was placed in the still, and it must be reduced again by
distilled water. The gin is not placed in a wooden vessel—it is placed in
a glass-lined vat. Gin is never aged.

OLD TOM GIN

The second variety of gin made in England is called Old Tom, named
for a man who was reputed to have lived in Plymouth 150 years ago.
Old Tom gin differs from dry gin in that it is sweetened: a dose of simple
syrup has been added to it. It is the logical gin for a Tom Collins.
 GINS 227

HOLLANDS GIN
Hollands gin is made in an entirely different manner. Originally, the
Dutch fermented the juniper fruit, made it into a wine, and then dis­
tilled this to make a brandy. They found it had a very beneficial effect
on the kidneys, which made it an advantageous drink in their cold, damp
weather.
They now use barley malt exclusively and grind up their flavoring
agent right with the malt when they make their mash.
An important point which is little known is that the Dutch distil off
0 0
their gin at an extremely low proof, 94 to 9 8 . This produces a spirit
which is very high in congeneric content and heavy in body.
Hollands gin is a very dry, clean spirit, but it has such a pronounced
taste of its own that it cannot be mixed with other ingredients to make
cocktails because its own taste will predominate, while the object in
mixing drinks is to see that the ingredients blend so that no one ingredi­
ent predominates.

AMERICAN GIN

The difference between gins made in the United States and those in
England, is chiefly that the English gins seem to have a little more char­
acter. The reason for it is not only the fact that different water will give
a slightly different character, but that all spirits, no matter how pure,
will differ slightly. In England, too, they distil out at a lower proof than
0 0
we do in America—between 180 and 190 proof.
Here in America, also, we use a neutral spirit, a spirit that we have
distilled out at a proof of 190°. We have got it almost to the point of
absolute purity. I have heard discussions, incidentally, on the merits or
lack of merits of neutral spirits obtained from molasses as opposed to
those from grains. This is highly illogical, as the word "neutral" indi­
cates that the character of the spirit has been distilled out. I can see
no advantages of one over the other, if care is exercised in distilling.

STEPS IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING GIN IN THE UNITED STATES

1. Beer or wash goes into a patent still (never pot still).

0
2. It is distilled and rectified out at 190 proof neutral spirit.
3. Neutral spirit reduced to 120° proof, goes into gin still. (60 per cent
alcohol and 40 per cent water.)
4. Now comes the first step in the actual production of gin. The neu­
tral spirit is heated and the alcohol vaporized.
5. The alcoholic vapors rise and pass through the "gin head," which
228 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

contains the flavoring agents: juniper berries, coriander seed, angelica

root, orange peel, and so forth.
6. The highly volatile essential oils of the flavoring agents attach
themselves to and blend with the alcoholic vapors which pass on to the
condenser.
7. The vapors are condensed back into a liquid which is gathered in
the gin receiver. This is a spirit which now contains the aroma,flavorand
taste of the aromatic berries, seeds, roots and peels subtly blended in it.
It is now distilled gin, which when reduced to 8o° to 95° proof (potable
strength) is ready to make Martinis, Tom Collins or gin and bitters.

FRUIT FLAVORED GINS

In the gin-producing countries—primarily America, England, and Hol­
land—there are people who demand a gin with a special flavor: orange,
lemon, raspberry, pineapple, and so forth, fruit-flavored gins are com­
pounds which are the product of rectification, and pay the thirty cents
per gallon rectification tax.

ON AGING GIN
There is a general misconception about Hollands gin being aged. In
the Netherlands, aging is not recognized by law. This does not mean that

Flowline Chart

of a modern
Gin Wistillery

DESIGNED BY H.J. GROSSMAN

EXECUTED BY C . W . M A S S A C U E R
 GINS 229

it is illegal to do so, but that there is no purpose in aging. Geneva, Hol­

lands and Schiedam are never aged. As they come from the still they are
stored until needed for bottling, either in large glazed earthenware vats
or more often in glass-lined underground tanks. Any slight yellowish
color to be found in Hollands is the product of a slight amount of cara­
mel coloring added. Incidentally there is no purpose in aging our own
gins, as the flavoring is used to make the new spirit palatable, and this
quality is not improved by aging in wood.

USES OF GIN
Hollands gin should be drunk straight; in the East Indies, however,
they drink it with bitters: Take a regular whiskey glass, 2 dashes of bit­
ters—roll the glass around until the inside of the glass is covered with the
bitters, then throw out the rest; then fill with Hollands gin. It is a quick
drink and a good appetizer.
For dry gin, the best cocktail is the Martini. It is also used for long
drinks: Tom Collins; gin and ginger ale; gin and tonic, or quinine water.
 21

Rums

R U M , * THE NAME of that most versatile of all alcoholic beverages, con­

jures up pictures of swashbuckling Sir Henry Morgan, the African slave
trade, the Spanish explorers in the New World, and the smugglers or
"rum-runners" of our recent Prohibition era. Its career has been roman­
tic and colorful, and replete with legends, some of which are doubtless
apocryphal.
First mentioned in association with Asia, it is possible that the first
rum was made there, but it accompanied the westward trek of civiliza­
tion. Today it is made wherever sugar cane grows.
Rum is any alcoholic distillate from the fermented juice of sugar cane,
sugar cane syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other sugar cane byproducts dis­
0
tilled at less than 190 proof (whether or not such proof is further re­
0
duced prior to bottling to not less than 80 proof), in such manner that
the distillate possesses the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally at­
tributed to rum; and includes mixtures solely of such distillates.
The early Spanish settlers experimented with the juice of sugar cane
in order to produce an alcoholic beverage, and made the product known
as rum. Back to the old world traveled the freebooters taking with them
the West Indies rum. How it got its name we don't know. There are
two legends, either of which may be true. One is that the swashbuckling
lads who first described this new beverage called it "rumbustion" and
"rumbullion," a name which in time was shortened to rum.
The other story credits the name to the English navy in 1745, when
Admiral Vernon discovered that his men were dying of scurvy. Not know­
ing quite what to do about it, he cut the daily ration of small beer from
their diet and replaced it with a strange new West Indian beverage which
conquered the scurvy problem and won him the lasting regard of his
men, who referred to him affectionately as "Old Rummy" and in his honor
called the new drink rum.
Columbus first brought sugar cane to the West Indies and Cuba, and
Puerto Rico produced sugar cane early in the sixteenth century. For 300
• R o n (Spanish); rhum (French).
230
 RUMS 231
years rum has been made in the West Indies. While rum is closely asso­
ciated with the West Indies, it is also produced in other sugar-cane grow­
ing sections of the world as well as in New England, which imports
molasses from the West Indies for this purpose. Many of the famous New
England shipping families engaged in an interesting cycle of trade, due
to the production of New England rum.
Rum, distilled in New England, was carried to Africa, perhaps with
stops at Madeira, the Azores or the Canaries where some of it was sold.
The remainder was exchanged for Blackamoors who were brought back
to the West Indies to become slaves, in exchange for molasses which was
brought back to New England to be distilled into rum so that the cycle
could be made all over again.
There are three main classifications of rums, namely: the very dry
light-bodied, brandy-like rums, of which Cuban rums are the outstand­
ing examples; the rich, full-bodied rums, the best example of which is
Jamaica rum; and the aromatic or Batavia Arak rums.
The rums of the various islands of the West Indies as well as those
elsewhere all have their own individual character. So we have Cuban
rum, Jamaica rum, Puerto Rican rum, and so forth. The Federal Alco­
hol Administration declares that the word "type" cannot be used in
identifying a rum, as is done in the case of-many wines, but that it must
carry the name of the locality from which it comes. So we cannot have a
"Cuban type" rum made in some other place.
The "light-bodied" rums are those of Puerto Rico, Cuba, Haiti, and
Santo Domingo. The "heavy-bodied" rums come from Jamaica, Trinidad,
Martinique, Demerara, Barbados, New England, and the Virgin Islands.
This does not mean, of course, that all Virgin Islands rums are heavy-
bodied, or that all Puerto Rican rums are light-bodied. There are various
types produced, but the localities are chiefly known for specific type
rums.
CUBAN RUM

The production of rum begins with the gathering of the cane. The
freshly cut sugar cane is brought to the sugar mills where the juice is
expressed, boiled, and clarified. After most of the water has been evap­
orated, the result is a thick, heavy syrup. This is run into high speed
centrifugal machines, whirling at 2200 to 2400 revolutions per minute,
where the sugar in this syrup will be crystallized and separated from the
other solids. The sugar is removed and what remains is molasses, which
will retain up to 5% sugar. This is used for making rum.
The molasses is placed in large wooden vats holding thousands of
gallons. Water is added and the slop from the previous distillation is
232 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

thrown in, as it is believed that it produces a better tasting rum. Yeast

culture is now added to the mixture and fermentation begins, usually
lasting from two to four days. This rapid fermentation is caused by the
addition to the mixture of a very small amount of sulphuric acid which
prevents the formation of secondary bacteria. This acid is used up during
the process of fermentation and is consequently quite harmless. During
the process of fermentation two products are created, namely alcohol and
carbonic gas. The carbonic gas escapes into the air and the alcohol re­
mains in the tubs, together with other liquids from which it is later
separated by distillation.
After fermentation is complete, the fermented mash, containing about
7 per cent of alcohol, is distilled to separate the rum from the water
present. The mash now is a pool of liquid which looks like muddy water.
In the column stills it is distilled at 160° or more proof. Because of this
high proof strength the Cuban Rum is lighter than most rums. Distilling
at this high proof produces a liquid which is very low in congenerics or
impurities, naturally insuring a very neutral rum.
As in the case of whiskey, only the middle part of the distillation, the
Madilla, known to the trade as Aguardiente, is used for making rum. The
Aguardiente is aged in used, uncharred oak barrels for about a year. It is
then removed to the rectifying plants where it passes through a leeching
process. That is, the liquid is passed through two series of barrels each
filled with alternate layers of charcoal and sand, which strip all the
accumulated color, solid matter, and impurities from the Aguardiente.
At this stage the rum is absolutely neutral, without color and with very
little taste or aroma. It now has some caramel added to give it color, and
some manufacturers add slight amounts of Cognac, fruit such as plums
and raisins, Sherry and other wines, to effect slight changes in the taste.
It is now lightly filtered and placed in large vats holding about 5000
gallons where it is aged for several years. Cuban rums are blends of older
and younger rums. After aging, the rum is again filtered lightly and
then bottled.

CUBAN RUM TYPE LABELS

The labeling of light-bodied rums originated in Cuba, where two types
or qualities of rum have always been prepared. These are Carta Blanca
(White Label) and Carta Oro (Gold Label).
The color in these rums is obtained principally from caramel. The
Gold Label has more caramel than the White Label. The caramel also
contributes its part to the flavor of the rum. This is about the only dif­
ference between White and Gold rums.
 RUMS 233

TASTE OF CUBAN RUM

The characteristic taste of the White and Gold Label rums is dry, with
a very slight molassesflavor,the Gold Label being a bit sweeter and hav­
ing a more pronounced taste.
The older liqueur rums are usually shipped under brand names. While
these rums are generally quite dry, they have a very fine mellow rummy
bouquet andflavor,and because of their dryness can be likened to a fine
old brandy.
In Cuba, where rum is the national drink, the rums produced in
Santiago de Cuba are considered the finest.

OTHER LIGHT-BODIED RUMS

Puerto Rican rum is the dry type, similar in character to the Cuban
rum. It is marketed under the same type labels as Cuban rums, but
Puerto Rico producers now offer full bodied rums in addition to the
light. These may be labeled either Red Label or Heavy Dark, for
Planter's Punch.
While Puerto Rico and Cuba are the principal islands producing light-
bodied rums, other rums of this type are produced in Santo Domingo,
Haiti, Venezuela, and Mexico. In Hawaii and the Philippine Islands
light-bodied rums are made, but they are not as fine in quality as those
of the West Indies. In Louisiana and until recently in Pennsylvania, a
light-bodied rum was made which was widely distributed.

JAMAICA RUM

Jamaica rum is a heavy-bodied rum and its manufacture differs con­

siderably from that of the light-bodied rums, such as the Cuban.
The rums produced from Jamaican cane and molasses have a superior
pungent bouquet, body, smoothness, and flavor. The ingredients of
Jamaica rum are the skimmings from the sugar boilers—the dunder,
known as "burnt ale"—to which is added the molasses or uncrystallized
sugar. The resultant mixture is put through a course of fermentation
which differs from the fermentation of light-bodied rums. (The Cuban
and Puerto Rico rums use a carefully cultured yeast to produce fermenta­
tion.) Jamaica rum is made by what is called "wild" fermentation. That
is, the molasses and water which make up the base of the mash are poured
into a vat which is exposed to the open air, and no cultured yeast is
added. The fermentation develops as a result of the natural ferments of
the sugar cane and the absorption of the yeast that is prevalent in the
air of the island. This method is also called "spontaneous fermentation."
 234 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Usually the residue of a former fermentation is added to aid in develop­

ing the mash.
Fermentation by this method is much slower than by the yeast culture
method, and the period of fermentation takes from five to twenty days,
permitting the development of congenerics or impurities, which are re­
sponsible for the definite character of heavy-bodied rum.
The mash is then put into a pot still or, occasionally, a patent still. In
Jamaica, the pot still is the most prevalent. As a rule, two of these pot
stills are used. The distillate of the first still vaporizes, condenses, and a
low wine is the result. This goes to the second still, where the rum is
0
brought up to the required strength. A spirit of about 140 to 160° proof
is obtained, which is then stored in oak puncheons for maturing. It is
now a crude rum.
Jamaica's best market is England where much of the rum is shipped
for aging and blending as England's damp climate is beneficial to the
maturing of rum. (Jamaica rums are always shipped at their high proof
and are only reduced to potable strength at the time of bottling, by the
addition of water.) For this reason, rums that have been so matured
usually command higher prices and are known in the trade as London
Dock rums, as they are stored in bonded warehouses on the London
Docks.
Jamaica rums are generally aged at least five years before shipping but
the general average is seven to eight years.

JAMAICA RUM TYPES

All Jamaica rums have a full rummy (molasses) bouquet and flavor.
The depth of their color depends, however, on the amount of caramel
used. The natural color is a rich golden hue, but of recent years the very
dark mahogany colored rums have increased in popularity in America.
This is due to the fact that they give greater color to the drinks made
with them. These dark rums are generally labeled "For Planter's Punch,"
as this is the drink in which they are used most widely.
To the best of my knowledge, all rums with the exception of New
England are blends of younger and older rums.

DEMERARA RUMS
Demerara rums are distilled from the molasses produced from sugar
cane grown along the Demerara River in British Guiana, South America.
The chief difference between Jamaica and Demerara rums is due to the
quality of the sugar cane and the variations in soil and climate in the
two countries. Demerara rums are much darker and slightly heavier than
Jamaica rums, and do not possess the finesse or the bouquet of the latter.
 RUMS 235
Demerara rums are obtainable on this market at various proofs. I
0
know of one firm that offers 86°, 96°, 114 , and 151° proofs. The over-
proof rums are used in Northern lumber camps, by the Grand Banks
fishermen, and in Alaska. After exposure to intense cold, they need a
very strong bracer to thaw them out. It is generally consumed in the
form of grog, that is, mixed half and half with very hot water.
With the popularity of the Zombie, the 151° proof Demerara rum has
found a new outlet.
VIRGIN ISLANDS RUM

The Virgin Islands have always been known for three things: rum
(the kind you drink), bay rum (the kind you put on your hair), and as
pirate hangouts during the days of the Spanish Main.
Purchased by the United States in 1917, they came under our Prohibi­
tion laws, and had to confine their efforts to bay rum until Repeal in
1933. The islands were in bad financial circumstances, and our Depart­
ment of Insular Affairs decided to assist the islands by re-establishing the
Virgin Islands rum industry. Eventually the first shipments of the new
rum arrived amid the greatest fanfare of free publicity any liquor ever
had. The business in rum has not quite solved the islanders' woes, but it
has helped them. Virgin Islands rum is neither a light- nor a heavy-
bodied rum. It is halfway in between, and finds its use primarily in the
making of mixed drinks of the heavy-bodied rum class such as swizzles,
punches, and coolers.

NEW ENGLAND RUM

This rum is produced in the New England States of the United States
from molasses shipped from the West Indies. It is distilled at less than
160° proof, and is a straight rum and not a mixture of rums. New Eng­
land rums are of the full-bodied rummy type. They do not have as much
body or as high aflavoras the Jamaica, but much more than the Puerto
Rico rums.
BATAVIA ARAK

Arak is a rum produced from molasses that comes from the sugar fac­
tories near Batavia, in the Island of Java, Dutch East Indies. Because
of the special treatment given the molasses, and the special quality of the
river water used in fermentation, a dry, highly aromatic rum results. The
quality of Arak owes much, too, to the wild, uncultured yeast, known
as the Saccharomycetes Vordermanni and the Monilio Javanica, and
finally to the little cakes of specially cooked and dried red Javanese rice
which are placed in the fermenting tubs of molasses.
236 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
The Arak is aged for three or four years in Java, after which it is
shipped to Holland where it is aged for another four to six years,
blended, and then bottled.
Arak is a brandy-like rum of great pungency and rumminess, and is
used as any other rum. In Sweden, however, its greatest use is for the
making of Swedish Punch.

RUMS IN GENERAL

There are a number of rums produced in the West Indies, such as

rums from Barbados, Trinidad, and Martinique. Nearly all the French
rums come from Martinique. None of these is as dry as the Cuban or as
pungent as the Jamaica, but each has its devoted followers.

USES OF RUM
In the rum-producing countries, it is drunk straight, rather than in
mixtures, and this is the best way to appreciate the qualities of a fine
rum. In the United States, however, it is used chiefly in cocktails, such
as the Daiquiri, Planter's Punch, rum swizzle, and so forth.
Rums are used extensively in the kitchen for making sauces for des­
serts and in ice creams and candies. Rums are used also in flavoring
tobacco.
 22

Other Spirits

T H E ARDENT SPIRIT in each country is obtained, as we have already

pointed out, from the basic fruit or grain native to the country, and
consequently the least costly product obtainable. So we find brandy in
France, Spain and Italy; whiskey and gin in England, Holland and the
United States; and rum wherever the sugar cane grows.

AKVAVIT (AQUAVIT)

The national beverage of the Scandinavian countries may be made

either from grain or from potatoes, and then flavored with caraway
seeds. The method of producing Akvavit in Denmark under the govern­
ment monopoly is to obtain from potatoes a highly rectified neutral
spirit which is reduced and redistilled in the presence of the flavoring
agent. It is distilled at 190° proof, reduced with water back to 120°, and
redistilled in a still similar to a gin still. The principal flavoring agent
is the caraway seed. Otherflavorings—orangeand lemon peel, cardamom,
and so forth—are used, much the same as in preparing a gin, except that
in this case, they are used in smaller proportion.
Akvavit is not aged. It is filtered as it comes from the still, reduced in
proof, and put into a glass-lined vat until it is ready for bottling. Or it
may be bottled immediately.
In Norway and Sweden similar methods are used for making Aquavit,
but it is recognized by the Scandinavians that the Danish Akvavit is the
best product.
Akvavit is always served ice cold. It is usually taken with food—appe­
tizers, canapes, or sandwiches—and usually with a beer chaser. The usual
drink of Akvavit is one ounce, and it is not sipped but is taken at one
swallow. It is customarily drunk to the Scandinavian toast:

"Skalll Min skaal—din skaal,

Alla vackra flickornas skaal!"
"Health! My health—your health,
All the pretty girls' health!"
237
238 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

It is an old Scandinavian custom at formal gatherings to drink as

many toasts as there are buttons on the men's dress vests. Our Norse
Vikings are sturdy fellows. I do not recommend this method of drinking
Akvavit or any other spirit.
Aalborg Akvavit is the only brand of Akvavit which may be exported
from Denmark. This is a private concern which has a monopoly from
the government. It is the only firm in Denmark allowed to produce
alcohol. Aalborg gets its name from a small town in Jutland on the
north coast of Denmark.
Akvavit may be described by saying that it is Kummel before the
sweetening syrup is added; it tastes like Kummel, except that it is much
drier. Its alcoholic strength is 90° proof, whereas Kummel is 60° to 8o°
proof.
A glass or two of Akvavit is an excellent beginning for a party. It
makes one relax and is a splendid drink to serve to a group of people for
a quick get-together.

VODKA AND ZUBROWKA

Vodka was originally produced in Russia, and while many people sup­
pose that it is made only from potatoes, this is not entirely correct. Vodka
has always been distilled from the most plentiful and least expensive
material available to the distiller, wherever he might be. Vodka is made
from potatoes and also from grain. According to Mr. R. P. Kunett of Ste.
Pierre Smirnoff Fils., Inc., thefinestvodka in Imperial Russia was distilled
from various grains, principally corn, with some wheat added.
Since Repeal, Vodka has been made in the United States. The Treasury
Department, under Federal Control Regulations No. 5, amended in 1949,
has established the definition and the method for producing "vodka" in
this country, as follows:
" 'Vodka' is neutral spirits distilled from any material at or above
0
190° proof, reduced to not more than 110 and not less than 80°
proof and, after such reduction in proof, so treated . . . as to be
without distinctive character, aroma or taste."
The methods authorized establish that the spirits must be rectified
through or with charcoal (activated carbon) for at least 8 hours.
Another misconception regarding Vodka is that Russians and Poles
always drink Vodka of very potent proof. This is not so. Vodka has gen­
0
erally been marketed in Russia, Poland and the Baltic countries at 8 0
proof.
Vodka is not flavored. It is not aged. It is always drunk ice cold, in
rather small glasses and it is usually taken with food—appetizers,—and at
one swallow.
Vodka has no pronounced taste. Because of this "neutral" characteristic
 OTHER SPIRITS 239
it is a most admirable cocktail ingredient and can be substituted in most
cocktail recipes where the spirit called for is not intended to impart its
own particular flavor to the final mixture. One of the most popular cock­
tails using Vodka is the "Vodka Martini", where Vodka replaces the gin;
another is the "Bloody Mary", for which you will find the recipe on
page 273.
Zubrowka is Vodka in which a bit of zubrowka grass is steeped. This
gives it a slightly yellowish tinge and an aromatic bouquet, as well as a
slight bitter undertone which is lacking in Vodka. It is served ice cold
like Vodka.
TEQUILA AND PULQUE
South of the border in Mexico, the cacti grow plentifully in a thousand
varieties. The one used in making Tequila is agave of the genus ama-
ryllis, better known as the century plant, or American aloe, and in Mexico
as mezcal. The plant takes twelve years to reach proper maturity, at which
time there is a rush of sap to the base. When the exact moment of
maturity is attained, the outer leaves are removed and the base, resem­
bling a pineapple but somewhat larger and heavier, is cut from the plant,
leaving only a stump.
These "pineapples" or hearts of the plant are heavy with sweet sap
called aguamiel (honey water). Upon arrival at the distillery they are
split open and placed in an oven where they are steamed for about eight
hours. This causes a considerable amount of the aguamiel to run off freely.
The "pineapples" are then shredded and the remaining juice is ex­
pressed by mechanical means. The juices are placed in large vats to
ferment.
To start fermentation and to insure continuing similarity of character,
a small amount of must from a previous fermentation is added to each
new batch. Fermentation takes about two and a half days. The fermented
product is distilled in pot stills. The finished Tequila, upon distillation,
0
is drawn off at about 1 0 4 proof. That which is shipped to this country
0
as white, is unaged and bottled at once at 1 0 0 proof, while that shipped
as gold, is aged in oak vats for at least four years.
Pulque is also obtained from mezcal. As a general rule it is not pro­
duced in the professional manner described above. The aguamiel obtained
is allowed to ferment slowly for about ten days to form madre pulque
(mother pulque). A small amount of this is added to fresh aguamiel
which ferments rapidly, being ready for consumption in a day or two.
Pulque is not readily available very far from its source of origin because
it is always consumed freshly made.
Pulque has a rather heavy flavor resembling sour milk, but it is much
appreciated by the Mexicans because of its cooling, wholesome and
nutritious properties.
240 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Tequila is the national and popular drink in Mexico and wherever

Mexicans gather. Taken straight, as is the Mexican custom, I must con­
fess it is one of the most fiery beverages I have ever drunk without a
doctor's order . . . but like the olive, or caviar, or Chile's great delicacy
the erizo, once the taste is acquired . . . well, 15,000,000 Mexicans can't
be wrong. However, in a cocktail where sugar, fruit juices and other in­
gredients are added, it is a delightfully pleasant and refreshing drink.
The traditional method of drinking Tequila is a ceremony in itself.
The imbiber takes half a lime or lemon, tilts back his head and squeezes
some of the juice on his tongue. Next he puts enough salt on his thumb­
nail to cover it. This joins the lime juice on his tongue. Then, and only
then is he prepared to meet his Tequila, which joins the previous prepara­
tion in his mouth and is gulped down fast. Not even a Mexican inured
to the hottest chile can drink Tequila in any other fashion. Once the
draught is down the reaction is pleasant enough. A warm glow suffuses
the hero of this episode, and after two more in quick succession he under­
stands why there have been so many revolutions in our sister republic
to the south.

THE GREEN MUSE

Man is a perverse creature. Deny him what he considers his inalienable

right and by hook or by crook he will get it anyway. Adam and Eve are
the classical Biblical examples, and a lot of us who experienced our own
dry era are modern examples. But the interesting psychology of prohibi­
tion is the aura of mystery with which the prohibited action or thing
becomes cloaked.
Of all alcoholic beverages discovered or created by man, none is less
understood than Absinthe, poetically described as "the water of the Star
Wormwood—the Green Muse." It is supposed to be wicked, to drive the
drinker insane, and to have killed many. In France its sale was pro­
hibited before the First World War because of the belief that it would
cause a decrease in the birthrate. Possibly it can do all of these terrible
things, as it is one of the most potent of all alcoholic beverages. It is not
because of the wormwood that it is so dangerous but rather because of
its alcoholic strength. Absinthe was generally shipped at a proof of 136°
or 68 per cent alcohol.
The sale of Absinthe is prohibited in Switzerland, where it was in­
vented, in France, the United States, and a few other countries.
Just what is this Absinthe of which we hear so much and about which
we know so little? The elixir Absinthe is composed of aromatic plants,
 OTHER SPIRITS 241
Artemisia mayoris and vulgaris, balm-mint, hyssop, fennel, star-anis, and
high proof spirit, usually brandy. It was invented towards the end of the
eighteenth century by a physician and pharmacist, Dr. Ordinaire, a
French exile, living in Couvet, Switzerland. In 1797 the recipe was ac­
quired by Henri-Louis Pernod and since that time the Pernod name has
been so closely allied with Absinthe as to make it synonymous with it.
When the manufacture and sale of Absinthe were prohibited in Switz­
erland and France, the Pernod firm, which practically enjoys a monopoly,
built a distillery at Tarragona, Spain, where it continued to make Ab­
sinthe until the Spanish civil war came along, and probably it will con­
tinue to produce it now that peace reigns over Iberia. For the countries
to which the importation of Absinthe is prohibited, a similar elixir is
prepared which contains everything that Absinthe does except the worm­
wood.
Absinthe is a light yellow green in color. It has a sharp pronounced
aromatic aroma, in which the dominant note is licorice. When it is
mixed with water (as it always should be), it changes color, first becom­
ing emerald, then pink, milky, and finally a cloudy opalescent color shot
through with glints of green, pink and gold. It is intriguing to look at
and to drink.
Only a lunatic, such as it is supposed to produce, would drink Absinthe
neat. The proper way to use it is to dilute it with a great deal of water
and ice, or use it as an added flavor in a cocktail—a dash is all that is
required. I recall a very popular cocktail I used to prepare in my hotel
which was simply a Dry Martini with a dash of Absinthe.
The classic Absinthe drink is the Absinthe Drip, which requires a
special drip glass, although a perforated silver "tea-strainer" may be
substituted for the "drip" part of the glass. Pour a jigger of Absinthe
into the glass, then place a cube of sugar over the drip hole of the upper
section, pack with cracked ice and pour cold water to fill the dripper.
When all of the water has dripped through, the drink is ready. Some
people prefer a slightly sweeter drink, which may be procured by using
one ounce of Absinthe and one ounce of Anisette.
This drink is an excellent restorative in cases of sea-sickness, air sick­
ness, and nausea. One is enough.
I should like to point out that the product shipped from France by
Pernod Fils (80° proof) is not Absinthe, but rather a special type of
Anisette. It is one of the most popular of all aperitifs in France.
Substitutes for Absinthe are produced both abroad and in the United
States. They are known by trade names, such as Liqueur Veritas of
Pernod, S.A., in Tarragona; Oxygenée, of Marie Brizard, in France;
Herbsaint, of Legendre, in New Orleans, Louisiana; and others.
 242 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

OKOLEHAO

Romantic Hawaii has made several exotic contributions to our way o£

life. In dancing it is the hula, in dress it is the lei, in sport it is the surf­
board, while in music it has given us the languorous steel guitar and
ukulele. But the most exotic offering is Okolehao or "Oke" as it is known
in the island.
According to Hawaiian Distilleries, Ltd., the producers, Okolehao is a
distillate obtained from a fermented mash of the proper proportion of
sugar-cane molasses, Koji rice lees and the juice of baked ti-root * to
which water has been added. The spirit is matured in charred oak bar­
rels and reduced in proof to 80°, and in some cases 90° proof, at the time
of bottling. Okolehao is dark in color and has a smoky aroma and flavor
which is imparted by the ti-root juice.
White Okolehao is produced in addition to the original type. This is
called Arrack, but should not be confused with Batavia Arak. The differ­
ence between white Okolehao and the regular is that in place of ti-root
juice, the water or juice of the coconut is used, the proportions of
molasses and Koji rice lees are different and the resultant spirit is aged
in uncharred oak barrels. It is almost colorless and is bottled at from
80° to 90° proof.
Although Oke can be drunk neat, in continental America its widest
use has been in cocktails and punches, which are generally served in
colorful scooped out dried coconuts.

BITTERS

Bitters are divided into two classes—medicinal and non-medicinal. Bit­

ters which are medicinal must pass a severe test to satisfy the Federal
Alcohol Tax Unit of the Internal Revenue Bureau that they should
not be subject to the regular alcohol Internal Revenue Tax. If im­
ported, the regular duty of $2.50 per gallon still applies.
If the bitters are classified as non-medicinal, such as Orange Bitters,
the Internal Revenue Tax and the State Tax applies, just as on any
other alcoholic beverage.
Medicinal bitters are not considered to be within the province of our
alcoholic beverage regulations. They come under the Pure Food Act and
may be sold by grocery stores or drug or department stores, and in many
states their sale is specifically prohibited in a liquor store. Yet bitters
often contain over 40% of alcohol and they are generally consumed
either alone or in combination with other liquors (in cocktails). This
* Ti-root is the root of the taro or kalo plant (colocasia anticorum). This is the same
root, which when baked, beaten into a paste and fermented, makes the famous
Hawaiian poi, one o f Hawaii's principal foods.
 OTHER SPIRITS 243
seems somewhat illogical, but bitters must be considered in a work of
this nature because of their many uses in connection with various cock­
tails.
Most bitters of repute are made from formulae which are closely
guarded proprietary secrets. They are the result both of infusion and dis­
tillation processes applied to aromatic plants, seeds, herbs, barks, roots
and fruits, all carefully blended on a spirit base. The one common char­
acteristic is their bitterness. They all claim to have stomachic qualities.
The best-known of all bitters is Angostura, which is made from a basic
formula prepared in Trinidad by the descendants of the creator of the
recipe, a German, Dr. Siegert. This basic formula is then amplified by
the addition of the spirit.
Abbott's Aged Bitters is the other principal aromatic bitters. It has
been prepared in Baltimore since 1865 by the Abbott family.
Other famous bitters are Peychaud's, prepared in New Orleans; Boone-
kamp (Dutch); Fernet Branca (Italian), also prepared here in America
by a branch of the original firm, Fratelli Branca; and Unicum, made by
the Hungarian liqueur firm of Zwack.
The one well-known bitters which is prepared and sold by a number
of Englishfirms,primarily, is Orange Bitters. This is obtained from the
dried peel of a bitter Seville orange—the same orange which is so popular
in England for making orange marmalade.
 23

Liqueurs or Cordials

A CLOSELY SHELTERED ROOM, a thin, ascetic individual wearing a black

robe withflowingsleeves bending over strange vessels and retorts, stirring
up a fire in search of gold and the everlasting life! This is a picture of
the early distiller, the alchemist who was thought to be in communion
with the devil. The medieval distiller was the magician of his day, and
he was trying to find the chemical secret of obtaining gold from baser
metals—in which he failed—and an elixir which would prolong life be­
yond the normal span. If this medieval magician did not learn how to
prolong life at least he learned the secret of making it more interesting,
for it was his experiments which produced the first cordials.
Originally cordials were used as medicinal remedies, as love potions,
aphrodisiacs, and general cure-alls. It is unnecessary to explain the
medicinal and therapeutic value of certain seeds, herbs, and roots which
were used at that time, as most of them are to be found in our own
pharmacopoeia. To mention just a few: caraway seed, coriander, angelica
root, oil of orange, oil of lemon, and various herbs rich in iodine.
In his Wines and Spirits, André L. Simon says: "In the making of
wine . . . the art of man intervenes only to make the best use possible
of Nature's own gift . . . but in the making of liqueurs, man has a much
wider field wherein to exercise his ingenuity; he is at liberty to give to
his liqueurs practically any shade or color he thinks best to attract the
attention, raise the curiosity, and charm the eye; he also has at his com­
mand all the fruits of the earth from which to extract an almost un­
limited variety of aromas and flavors, wherewith to please the most
fastidious taste and flatter the most jaded palate."
By the same token, it is theoretically possible to make any liqueur with
equal success in any part of the world, but the theory works only up to
a certain point. Certain countries have produced such excellent liqueurs
that their products are recognized throughout the world as standards of
quality. Foremost in this respect are France and Holland, although cer­
tain specialties of great repute are produced in other countries, such as
Italy's Strega, Flora di Alpi, and Dalmatian Maraschino; Germany's
244
 LIQUEURS OR CORDIALS 245
Gilka Kummel; Sweden's Swedish Punsch; Denmark's Cherry Heering,
Danzig's Goldwasser; Greece's Ouzo; and here in our own country,
Creme Yvette and Forbidden Fruit, two liqueurs which are better known
abroad than they are at home.
A liqueur, or cordial, is an alcoholic beverage prepared by combining
a spirit (usually brandy) with certain flavorings, and then adding sugar
syrup in excess of21/2per cent of the volume for sweetening.
The liqueur family is divided into two main branches. These are the
natural-colored or "fruit" liqueurs which are prepared by the infusion
method, and the colorless or "plant" liqueurs which are prepared by the
maceration-distillation method.

FRUIT LIQUEURS
These are made by the infusion method in the following manner: for
example, fresh apricots and some dried apricots are placed in a cask con­
0
taining brandy which, as a rule, is from 120 to 130° proof. The fruit
steeps in the brandy from six to eight months, during which time the
brandy absorbs the color, bouquet, aroma, and taste of the fruit. At the
end of that time, all the liqueur manufacturer has to do is to draw off
the brandy, strain it, add syrup, age it for about a year in a vat or crock
that has had the same type of liqueur stored in it previously, then filter,
and it is ready for bottling.
When the brandy is drawn off, a certain amount remains in the fruit
which was infusing, and some of the essential flavoring oils remain also.
In order to prevent waste, this brandy-soaked fruit is placed in a still,
and by distillation the last drop of flavor is extracted. This distillate is
now added to the original brandy drawn off the infusion, in order to
give it more character. In some cases, where the stones of the fruit are
present, some of the oil from the stones is also extracted, producing the
slight bitter almond undertone sometimes found in such liqueurs as
apricot, peach and cherry. Strawberry and other fruits may also be used
in making liqueurs.
At this point, I would like to explain the misuse of the word "brandy"
as applied to liqueurs. The Federal Alcohol Administration says that it
is illegal to use the word "brandy" on a label unless the product is dis­
tilled from a fermented mash of the actual fruit and contains less than
21/2 per cent of sugar. Therefore, any liqueur made from fruit by the
infusion method cannot be called brandy.
In Europe the word "brandy" is used very loosely in connection with
liqueurs, and we find the labels "apricot brandy," peach brandy," etc.,
when they are not brandies as we define them. Therefore, in Europe
"apricot brandy" and "apricot liqueur" are generally the same thing.
246 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

PLANT LIQUEURS
Plant liqueurs are produced by distillation. The plant, seed, root, or
herb which is the principal flavoring ingredient is macerated (softened
by soaking) in brandy for 24 to 48 hours and then placed, brandy and all,
in a pot still where the flavor is obtained by distillation. The product is
sweetened with simple syrup, and artificial coloring matter is added.
Plant liqueurs, like fruit liqueurs, are aged in old vats that have held
the same type of liqueur, in some instances, for many generations. These
old aging vats are, indeed, with the secret formulae, the most precious
possessions of a liqueur producer.
The fruit liqueurs obtain their color in a natural manner from the
fruit itself, but in plant liqueurs, where the distillate is colorless when
it comes from the still, artificial coloring matter (which is perfectly
harmless) must be added. Examples are Crème de Menthe, Crème de
Cacao, Crême de Rose, and so forth.
In fruit liqueurs, no additional flavoring agent is added, but most of
the plant liqueurs have more than one ingredient as a flavoring agent,
one of them always predominating.
There are several liqueurs which are really a mixture of liqueurs, some-
times as many as three or four being used. I call this a cocktail of
liqueurs. The one best-known in this country is Pousse Café.

FAMOUS PROPRIETARY BRANDS

Bénédictine. To the best of my knowledge, the oldest liqueur to sur-
vive the test of time is the world-famous D. O. M Bénédictine, which is
still produced on the identical spot where its secret formula was dis-
covered in the year 1510.
I visited this corner of France a few years ago and saw the duplicate
of the original Bénédictine Abbey of Fecamp where Dom Bernardo
Vincelli first gave his brother monks his new elixir to comfort them when
they were fatigued or ill. D. O. M, which appears on every label, stands
for the Latin words Deo Optimo Maximo, "To God, most Good, most
Great."
Today it has no connection with any religious order but is a family-
owned corporation, founded by M. Alexandre Le Grand in 1863.
The formula for Bénédictine is one of the most closely guarded secrets
in the world. Only three people ever know the complete details. It is a
tribute to their ability to keep the secret inviolate that every attempt to
imitate this liqueur—and attempts have been made in every part of the
world—has failed. At the distillery at Fecamp they point to their Salon de
Contrefaçons (Hall of Counterfeits) where the walls are lined with cabi-
 LIQUEURS OR CORDIALS 247

(Left) Temporary storage tanks and entrance to cellars at the Bénédictine Distillery,
Fécamp, France. Thermo-syphon mixing tanks on balcony. (Right) Paul Gamier ex­
plaining to Julius Wile the intricacies of the graduated stills used for plant liqueurs,
at the P. Gamier Distillery, Enghien-les-Bains, France. (Photos—Julius Wile)

nets filled with examples of hundreds of attempted imitations. This is

the one liqueur of which it can be said: "There is only one."
Bénédictine is a plant liqueur made from a number of different herbs,
plants, peels, and so forth, on a fine Cognac brandy base. It is made in a
number of operations; not all of the flavors are distilled out at the same
time. They are obtained separately and then skillfully blended together.
Bénédictine is aged for four years before being bottled.
Several years ago the heads of the firm were convinced that a sub­
stantial amount of Bénédictine was drunk in the form of B and B
(Bénédictine and Brandy) by people who preferred a drier liqueur.
They therefore decided to prepare their own B and B Liqueur, D. O. M,
which makes for a drier or less sweet Bénédictine.
Chartreuse. The most famous liqueur still made by a religious order is
Chartreuse. It is made from a secret formula given to the Carthusian
Fathers of the convent of the Grande Chartreuse at Grenoble, France, in
1607 by the Maréchal d'Estrées. The original formula was slightly modi­
fied and perfected in 1757 by one of the monks, Brother Gérome Manbec,
who was described as a "very clever apothecary" by writers of the period.
Two types of Chartreuse—yellow, 86° proof, and green, 110° proof,—
have been made faithfully according to these formulae.
In 1901, because of a law against religious orders passed in France,
the Carthusian Fathers were expelled from their monastery of the Grande
Chartreuse, where they had had their headquarters since the founding
of the order in 1084 by Saint Bruno of Cologne. Their property, which
included their trade marks for Chartreuse liqueurs, were sold at auction,
but the secret formula was not available. The clever fathers repaired to
another monastery of their order in Tarragona, Spain, where they con-
248 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

tinued to produce their famous liqueurs according to their ancient secret

formulae. The bottles today bear two labels: The original label used be-
fore the expulsion from France, and a second which carries the legend,
"Liqueur Fabriquée à Tarragona par les Pères Chartreux."
Both yellow and green Chartreuse are plant liqueurs with a spicy,
aromaticflavor,made on a brandy base, the green being much drier and
somewhat more aromatic than the yellow. The green also is reminiscent
of the Green Muse—Artemisia.
Cherry Heering is recognized as one of the outstanding cherry liqueurs.
It is produced in Copenhagen, Denmark, by the firm of Peter Heering.
Cordial Medoc is a cocktail of liqueurs; a blend of fine brandy, orange
Curaçao, and Crème de Cacao, produced in Bordeaux, France.
Cointreau is a brand name for one of the finest Triple Sees.
Drambuie is a liqueur made by an ancient secret formula brought to
Scotland by a French attendant on Prince Charles Edward in 1745—hence
its claim to "Prince Charles Edward's Liqueur." It is made with the finest
old Highland Malt Scotch whisky and heather honey.
Falernum. This is a pleasant flavoring syrup with a small amount of
alcohol (6%), made up of simple syrup, lime, almond, ginger, and other
spices. It is white in color.
Falernum was invented over 200 years ago in Barbados, B.W.I. Appar-
ently the sugar cane planter who named it was quite erudite for it was
named after the ancient and storied Falernian wine of Roman times.
Aside from this, Falernum has no connection with wine or Italy for it is
made in the West Indies and the United States.
Its principal use is as a flavoring and sweetening ingredient in rum
drinks, a function it performs admirably.
Grand Marnier is a fine liqueur produced in Cognac, France. It is in
reality one of the finest orange Curaçao liqueurs.

Preparing liqueurs. (Left) Machine breaking dried green Curaçao orange peel into
small pieces preparatory to macerating and distilling. (Right) Ancient liqueur ageing
vats. (Photos—P. Gamier Distillery)
 LIQUEURS OR CORDIALS 249
Gilka Kummel, made in Berlin, Germany, has for almost a century
been accepted as the standard of quality, although the old firm of Bols
in Holland claims that their Bolskummel was the original Kummel, dis­
tilled by Erven Lucas Bols in 1575. This is said to have so impressed a
Russian Czar that he took the recipe back to Russia and eventually made
Russia the principal producer and consumer of Kummel.
Kummel is flavored principally with caraway seed, and cumin seed
from which is obtained the highly therapeutic cumin oil.
Forbidden Fruit is one of the two liqueurs made in America and ex­
ported to Europe. It was made by the famous Bustanoby from a type of
grapefruit, called the shaddock, infused in fine brandy.
Creme Yvette is the other American liqueur which is popular in
Europe. It is a liqueur colored and flavored violet, and made in Con­
necticut.
Liqueur d'Or. Flavor obtained primarily from lemon peel, herbs, and
plants. Similar to Danziger Goldwasser, also has gold leaf flecks in it.
Vielle Cure is an aromatic plant liqueur produced in Bordeaux.
Van der Hum is a spicy, aromatic liqueur from South Africa, made
with fruits and plants, seeds, barks, and so forth. Its principal flavor is
that of mandarine.
Strega is a famous spicy plant liqueur which comes from Italy.
Amer Picon is a popular French bitter cordial which is rarely con­
sumed neat. In France it is drunk as an aperitif by mixing two ounces
of Amer Picon with about four ounces of cold water. To sweeten the
drink, grenadine is often used. In the United States its most popular use
is in the pleasantly refreshing Picon Punch, whose recipe is to be found
on page 274 of Chapter 25 on Cocktails.

LIQUEURS SHIPPED BY MOST HOUSES

Below are listed the liqueurs made and shipped by most general liqueur
distillers or producers, and their principal flavor. Very often several dif­
ferentflavoringagents are used, and it is these secondaryflavoringswhich
cause the variations in the same type of liqueur from house to house or
brand to brand.
Anisette. Flavor obtained principally from aniseed.
Anis. Spanish spelling of anisette, when made in Spain and Latin
America.
Apricot Liqueur. Principal flavor from apricots. Often shipped under
a trade name such as "Abricotine" or "Apry."
Arrack Punsch. Caloric Punsch. This is the national liqueur of Scan­
dinavia. It is made by adding simple syrup and several flavors to a base
of Batavia Arak.
 250 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Blackberry Liqueur. Obtained generally from blackberries, but occa-

sionally has a small amount of red wine added to it.
Cherry Liqueur. Obtained generally from small wild black cherries.
Crême de Ananas. Flavor obtained from pineapple.
Crême de Bananes. Flavor obtained from bananas.
Crême de Cacao. Flavor obtained from cacao and vanilla beans. The
word "Chouao" often found on Creme de Cacao labels indicates that the
beans come from the Chouao region of Venezuela—considered the finest
in the world.
Crême de Cassis. Flavor obtained primarily from black currants.
Crême de Fraises. Flavor obtained primarily from strawberries.
Crême de Framboises. Flavor obtained primarily from raspberries.
Crême de Menthe. Flavor obtained from several varieties of mint but
principally peppermint. Both white and green are usually shipped. The
only difference is that the green has harmless artificial coloring added.
Creme de Noyaux. Flavor obtained primarily from fruit stones, result-
ing in a bitter almond flavor.
Crême de Rose. Flavor obtained from the essential oil of rose petals
and vanilla.
Crême de Vanille. Flavor obtained from the finest Mexican vanilla
beans.
Crême de Violette. Flavor obtained from essential oil of violets and
vanilla.
Curaçao. Flavor obtained primarily from the dried peel of the famous
green oranges from the island of Curaçao.
Danziger Goldwasser. Flavor obtained primarily from orange peel and
various other spicy herbs and plants. It contains tiny flecks of genuine
gold leaf which are harmless if consumed.
Gomme. This is a prepared simple syrup. It is non-alcoholic.
Grenadine.—A non-alcoholic flavoring syrup. Flavor obtained from
pomegranate.
Kummel. Flavor obtained principally from caraway seed. Occasionally
it has crystallized sugar in it, in which case it will be sold as Kummel
Crystallizé.
Liqueur Jaune (yellow liqueur). The name generally given to imita-
tions of yellow Chartreuse.
Liqueur Vert (green liqueur). The name generally given to imitations
of green Chartreuse.
Mandarine. Flavor obtained principally from dried peel of mandarines
(tangerines).
Maraschino. Flavor obtained from the special Dalmatian Marasca
cherry.
 LIQUEURS OR CORDIALS 251
Ojen. A dry, high-proof Anis, made from the star aniseed, in the town
of Ojen, in southern Spain.
Ouzo. An anisette made in Greece.
Parfait Amour. Another name for Crême de Violette.
Peach Liqueur. Flavor obtained from fresh and dried peaches.
Prunelle. Flavor obtained from plums.
Sloe Gin. Flavor obtained from the sloe berry (blackthorn bush).
Swedish Punsch. See Arrak Punsch.
Triple Sec. A white Curaçao, usually 80° proof as against the average
orange Curacao's 60° proof.

USES OF LIQUEURS
Liqueurs, being sweet and potent and containing certain beneficial
essential oils, are natural digestives and for this reason they are most
popular as after dinner drinks. That is their primary use today. During
the Prohibition era, however, liqueurs came into wide use as cocktail
ingredients because their rich sweetness was helpful in covering up the
harsh bite of the spirits the bootlegger supplied. Many cocktails in-
vented during that period call for liqueurs as an important ingredient.
In fact, many people have found that a dash of a liqueur in a cocktail
gives it added smoothness, texture, and palatability.
In France certain liqueurs are used in various ways aside from their
customary use as after dinner liqueurs. Most of the Crême de Menthe,
for instance, used in France is drunk in the form of highballs. Crême de
Cassis, made from black currants, is drunk mixed with French Vermouth
and mineral water, or merely mixed with mineral water. A popular way
of serving liqueurs is as frappés, which are made by filling a small glass
with finely cracked ice and then pouring the liqueur into it.

LIQUEURS IN THE KITCHEN

In addition to all these uses, liqueurs and syrups are used in cooking,
baking, flavoring ices and ice creams, in making sauces for puddings,
fruit dishes, and in desserts in general.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF CORDIALS

For those who are called upon to prepare Pousse-Café or combinations
of "floated" liqueurs, we offer this table of proofs and densities of cor-
dials and liquors. Of course, not all liqueur manufacturers use the iden-
tical formulae and consequently they will vary slightly for various ship-
pers, but this should serve as a fairly good guide. Remember the lighter
product floats upon the denser.
252 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Gordial or Liqueur °Proof Density Cordial or Liqueur °Proof Density

Kirsch 96 0.938 Peach 60 1.085
Cognac Brandy . . . . 84 0.948 Apricot 60 1.085
Green Chartreuse . . 110 1.015 Anisette 54 1.100
B and B Liqueur Crême de Menthe.. 60 1.105
DOM 86 1.045 Mandarine 70 1.110
Prunelle 80 1.045 Crême d'Ananas . . . 60 1.115
Cherry Liqueur . . . 60 1.045 Curaçao 60 1.115
Kümmel 86 1.055 Maraschino 60 1.115
Triple Sec 80 1.055 Parfait Amour 60 1.115
Liqueur d'Or 86 1.065 Vanille 60 1.115
Yellow Chartreuse . . 86 1.065 Crême de Cacao.... 60 1.115
Blackberry 60 1.080 Crême de Rose 60 1.130
Strawberry or Crême Crême de Violette.. 60 1.130
de Fraises 60 1.080 Crême de Cassis.... 36 1.170
 24
Beers and Ales

IN GERMANY in the early part of the present century, excavators discov­

ered a jug whose contents proved to be beer mash, which had been made
some sixteen centuries ago—probably the oldest bottle of beer in exist­
ence. And yet that mash had been made when the beer industry was
thousands of years old, for the history of brewing is as old as recorded
history—some seven thousand years.
Archaeologists have found hieroglyphics which mean "brewing." They
have found jugs which were used for beer, and chemical analysis has
proved that barley was used. They have even found some of the yeast
cells by which beer was fermented. In ancient days the brew-master and
baker were the same man. Nobility and priesthood were interested in
brewing, and there was a close association between religious ceremonies
and beer.
According to Pliny, the Egyptians made wine from corn. The Greeks
learned the art of preparing beer from the Egyptians.
Through the ages, in every country from Egypt to the New World,
evidence of beer has been recorded in all languages. Medieval history is
replete with references to brewing and its importance in the develop
ment of civilization. Even the Kaffir races of darkest Africa made, and
still make, a kind of beer from millet, while the natives of Nubia, Abys­
sinia, and other parts of Africa prepared a fermented beverage which
they called bousa.
The Russian quass or kvass from black bread (rye), the Chinese samshu,
the Japanese sake from rice, are all beers of ancient origin.
Contrary to popular opinion, the "mead" which Friar Tuck and Little
John quaffed in such great quantities in Sherwood Forest with Robin
Hood was not a beer. Mead, in reality, was the name for a drink made
from fermented honey and water, flavored with herbs.
Had it not been for the lack of beer and food, the Pilgrim Fathers in
the Mayflower would have continued their journey to Virginia, where
they had intended to make their home. Instead, they landed at Plymouth
Rock, because, as recorded in their Journal:
253
254 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

"We could not now take time for further search or considerations,
our victuals being spent, especially our beer."
Although the Pilgrims called their brew beer, it was really ale that
they used, as lager beer was first introduced into America by the Ger­
mans in 1840. Although most of the households brewed their own beer,
the records show that a brewery was in operation by 1637. Probably
William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, was the first to operate a brew­
ery on a large commercial scale, at Pennsbury in Bucks County. Another
early brewery was that of the Dutch brewer Jacobus who had his first
brewery and beer garden at what is now the corner of Pearl Street and
Old Slip in New York City.
Among early Americans who were brewers or had financial interests
in breweries were George Washington, James Oglethorpe, Israel Putnam,
Samuel Adams, and Thomas Chittenden, the first Governor of Vermont.
They were all men of integrity and standing, so the industry started in
America under excellent auspices.

DEFINITIONS
Beer is a brewed and fermented beverage made from malted barley
and other starchy cereals, flavored with hops. Beer is a generic term
embracing all malt beverages.
Ale is an aromatic malt or malt and cereal brew, usually heavier and
more bitter than beer. Ale is fermented at a higher temperature than
beer and the yeast remains at the top of the brew, hence it is a top-
fermentation brew.
Stout is a very dark ale with a strong malt flavor, a sweet taste, and a
strong hop character.
Porter is a type of ale having a rich and very heavy foam. Very dark
malt is used to give a high extract. It is sweeter and less "hoppy" than
regular ale. It is brewed like stout but is not quite as strong.
Lager is a bright, clear, light-bodied beer, which is sparkling and effer­
vescent, brewed from malt, prepared cereals such as corn and rice, hops,
and water. The resultant "wort" is fermented and "lagered" (stored) for
sedimentation. During this period it is carbonated or "krausened" (its
own CO2 gathered and added back to it). Most American beers are the
lager type.
Bock Beer is a special brew of heavy beer, usually somewhat darker
and sweeter than regular beer, which is prepared in the winter for use
in the spring. Bock Beer Day is supposed to herald the arrival of spring.
The bock beer season usually lasts some six weeks.
Sake is a refermented brew of high alcoholic content produced in
Japan, principally from rice.
 BEERS A N D ALES 255
Famous beers of the Old World are Pilsner of Pilsen, Bohemia; Munch-
ener of Munich, Germany; Carlsberg of Denmark, and the ales and stouts
of England and Ireland.

BREWING PROCESS
In the brewing of beer, as in the preparation of a fine dish in the
kitchen, the resultant product is as good as its ingredients. These will be
much the same, whether you wish to produce a light lager beer or a full-
bodied creamy ale, the only difference being in the way the ingredients
are treated; that is, how long the malt is dried and roasted, and the tem­
perature at which fermentation takes place.

INGREDIENTS
Water: Although the quality of each ingredient used is important,
none is more so than the quality of the water, not only because it forms
from 85 to 89 per cent of the finished beer, but because it is used in every
step of the brewing operation and it has a great deal to do with the
character of the beer. The first consideration, therefore, is the quality
and type of water. It must be biologically pure and its mineral content
must be known. If the water contains certain mineral salts that are liable
to cause trouble, these salts must be eliminated. Most waters used for
brewing are treated to render them suitable. One of the few examples
of beer made with untreated water is that of Pilsen, Bohemia.
A water that is well-suited for the making of beer will not make a
good ale, and vice versa. That is why certain regions are noted for their
light beers and others for their ales. For instance, the New York brewers
stick to beer, while across the Hudson River, in the city of Newark, the
brewers are famous for their fine ales.
Malt: The second ingredient to consider is the malt. In America only
the finest barley malt is used. As a general rule, the breweries do not do
their own malting, but buy it from specialists, although the manner in
which the malt is to be treated is specified by the brew-master in order­
ing. The exact amount of kilning and the degree of roasting are impor­
tant in obtaining the amount of dryness or sweetness of the final product:
the beer or ale.
Other cereals: These will either be raw, such as corn and rice, or in
varying stages of preparation such as corn grits (cracked corn) and hom­
iny, or may even be like our breakfast cereal, corn flakes. In the making
of ales, certain types of sugars or syrups may be used. These are called
malt adjuncts.
Hops: Hops did not come into general use until the 14th century and
for a while there were laws in Europe forbidding their use in brewing.
 256 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Up to that time, other substances had been used to give the brews bitter­
ness and character, but it did not take long for the people to realize that
hops were the best. The finest hops come from Czechoslovakia, although
today fine hops are grown in America, in the states of California, Oregon,
Washington, and New York. Only the flower or cone from the female
hop vine (the hop vine is unisexual) is used in brewing. The flower is
like a small pine cone and has very soft leaves. It must be picked at just
the right time, as under- or over-ripeness is detrimental to the brew. It is
picked free from leaves and stems, dried carefully to conserve the deli­
cate, fine aroma essential in a choice brewing hop. At the breweries the
hops are stored in clean, air-conditioned cold-storage chambers at a tem­
perature of about 40° F.
It used to be that the brewing value of the hops was judged solely by
appearance or physical examination. Today, however, the hops are sub­
jected to careful chemical analysis to determine the exact amount of
humulon and lupulin (alpha and beta resins respectively) which they
contain, because of the flavor they impart and the antiseptic action they
exercise, preventing the development of wild bacteria which might con­
ceivably get into the wort.
Yeast: Finally comes the fermenting agent, the pedigreed brewer's
yeast, which converts the wort into beer. This unicellular, microscopic
plant is cared for more carefully in a brewery than any other ingredient,
because, once the particular strain has been selected, it must not be
changed or the character of the beer will be changed. That is why I have
used the word "pedigreed." It is just that. It is not merely the fact that
the yeast causes the sugars to become alcohol. Another yeast would do
that, but it performs other functions as well. These other things are in
very small proportion, but they probably influence the character of the
beer more than the alcohol does, and it is these secondary products of
fermentation which vary according to the types of yeast. Therefore, once
a quality or type of beer has given satisfaction to a brewery's customers,
you may be sure the brew-master will guard the purity of his yeast more
closely than the Treasury guards its gold hoard in Kentucky.

STEPS IN MAKING BEER

With the ingredients and the proper plant equipment, the brewer is
ready to make the beer. The first step is "mashing."
Mashing: The malt is ground to the proper fineness and screened to
shake out any bits of dirt or dust which are still in it. It then goes
through a hopper into a mash-tub. This is a circular copper or stainless
steel vessel with a false bottom which has slots like a sieve. It contains a
heating device and a set of paddles to keep the mixture agitated.
 BEERS AND ALES 257
When a raw cereal is used, it is cooked in this cooker to gelatinize or
liquefy the starch. Prepared or pre-cooked cereals do not require heating.
The malt, cereals, and the proper amount of water are thoroughly mixed
and stand or are cooked as long as is necessary to obtain the maximum
extraction of soluble materials. It is during this mashing operation that
the brew-master can determine the composition of the finished beer, for
it is the temperature and the length of time at which the mash is main­
tained at a given temperature that determine the amount of fermentable
and non-fermentable substances the wort will contain. It is the non-
fermentable substances that give the body to the brew. With modern
equipment, all of these operations are scientifically controlled, and the
beer from a given brewery will be uniform. The object of malting, as
explained in the chapter on distillation, is to create diastase, which has
the property of converting the starches in the grain to fermentable sugars.
When the stirring is stopped, the solids are allowed to settle. What has
been going on is predigestion. Compound things have been made digest­
ible, insoluble substances have been made soluble. The solids, which
settle on the bottom, form the filter bed. The liquid, which is now
wort, flows through this natural filter and it passes into the brewing
kettle. In order to insure every bit of goodness being obtained from the
grain, the solids are sparged (rinsed) with water. This rinse from the
sparging is added to the wort. In the kettle, hops are added to the wort,
which is then boiled from two to two and a half hours. This accomplishes
the following objects:
1: The wort is sterilized.
2. Some excess water is evaporated.
3. Certain soluble, bitter, and flavoring materials from the hops which
are not needed are lost through evaporation.

Modern brewery. (Left) Lauter tubs. Tanks for clarifying mash prior to hopping and
fermentation. (Right) Partial view of battery of fermenters in a spotless brewery.
(Photos—Hoffman Beverage Co.)
258 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
4. Some of the insoluble substances in the wort are made soluble by
the high heat. The brewer calls this the "hot break."
5. A certain amount of darkening of the character, due to a small
amount of caramelization, is obtained.
After the hot break and the hops have done their work, the wort runs
from the kettle through a hot-strainer or "hop-jack." There the hops are
passed through a filter bed and the wort, which is now called "hop-wort,"
runs through, leaving the spent hops behind. The wort is cooled down
and goes into the fermenting vat.
The temperature to which the wort will be cooled depends on whether
the brewer is making beer or ale. In the case of beer, fermentation will
take place at a very low temperature—between 37° and 49° F. Ale, on
the other hand, is fermented at a temperature of between 50° and 70° F.
This is one difference. Another is that the yeast used in fermenting ale
is different from that used for beer.
At this point, the yeast is added. There is as much difference between
brewer's yeast and ordinary yeast as there is between Man o' War and
a truck horse. The secret of the flavor in many world-famous beers is due,
unquestionably, to the culture of yeast strain used. The difference be­
tween beer yeast and ale yeast is that beer yeast settles to the bottom and
does its work there during fermentation and after. Beer is the result of
"bottom fermentation."
In the case of ale, the yeast, in multiplying, has a tendency to stick
together, creating more of a surface, and does its work from the top of
the liquid. Ale is the result of "top fermentation." This is due partly to
the higher temperature at which ale is fermented, and partly to the dif­
ferent type of yeast which is used. Beer fermentation takes longer than
ale—8 to 11 days being the fermenting time for beer, while 5 to 6 days
are usually sufficient for ale.
Beers usually have a lower alcoholic content, while ales have a stronger
hop flavor.
During fermentation, the carbonic acid gas which is given off is gath­
ered and stored, to be added back to the beer later on. After fermenta­
tion is over and most of the yeast has settled down, the young beer is run
off into glass-lined or otherwise protected storage vats, where it is kept
at a very low temperature, close to the freezing point, so that the yeast
and other solids which would give it a cloudy appearance may be pre­
cipitated by the natural process of sedimentation. Certain chemical
changes take place which develop the immature beer. During this period,
the beer throws off its roughness and, as it matures, it becomes more
mellow and pleasing.
Finally the beer is carbonated by adding the carbonic acid gas which
 BEERS AND ALES 259
was released by the wort during fermentation. This process is called
krausenating. It is then passed through a pressure filter and is packaged.

PACKAGING
The three forms of packaging are: kegs or barrels, bottles, and cans.
The beer, under pressure, passes through closed pipe lines into the con­
tainers.
Beer cannot be kept or stored in direct contact with wood, as it will
take on an unpleasant woody flavor. Barrels made from wood, therefore,
are lined with pitch which is tasteless, does not dissolve in the beer, and
keeps it from touching the wood. Metal containers, too, are lined, except
in the case of aluminum which does not affect either the taste or the
character of the beer. These kegs are built to withstand a much greater
pressure than is usually found in beer. Wooden cooperage will stand a
pressure of 45 pounds per square inch, while metal kegs will stand over
a thousand pounds.
As these containers are safe against additional pressure which might
be created by additional fermentation, beer so packaged is not pasteur­
ized. Beer packaged in bottles or cans is likely to remain in the package
longer and will be shipped farther away from the brewery than the kegs,
so, in order to protect the package, this beer is pasteurized, making it
sterile and killing any yeast which might be ready to go to work. If this
were not done, additional carbonic acid gas would form and perhaps
burst the bottle or can. This is the principal object in pasteurizing bot­
tled or canned beer. Pasteurization takes place at 140° to 145° F., the
temperature at which the beer is kept for about 20 minutes. It is then
cooled rapidly.

DISPENSING BEER

The three cardinal points of beer service are:

1. Cleanliness 2. Temperature 3. Pressure

Cleanliness. Beer is the most delicate and perishable food product a

restaurant handles. It is highly susceptible to extraneous odors, to wild
bacteria ever present in the air, and to strong light. It should be stored
in a spotless room, which is well-ventilated, in which no other products
are stored, and where a constant temperature of 40° F. may be main­
tained.
The dispensing equipment should be checked and thoroughly cleaned
as often as possible, at least once a week. If an establishment wishes to
260 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

SUGGESTIONS for KEEPING and SERVING

"BEER AT ITS BEST"
SITUATION CAU5E EFFECT and REMEDY SITUATION CAUSE EFFECT and REMEDY
Temperature loo high f re-cooling too great or insufficient
Keep temperature in Mangebox45°F. or lower. Abo Kegson tap- aa wal at in reserve should be kept cool-
refer to Section 4. However, the temperature of the cooling compartment
C oil boxes t
h ould be pro per
ly i
c ed i
n both sup e
r and should be so controled that it permits serving the beer
IF Your Beer Is lower box and ice kept broken op, preferably by a eIf maYour
il Beer Is at between40°and45°F.Unlessthistemperatureis
stick used with a atirring motion, to prevent the arching regulated to suit the rate of drawing beer, it ia apt lo
of the ice. Do not beat ice down with aclubat thit is
apt toflattenoutpiperor kink them. Cooling in coil box too great or insufficient
Keghasbeen agitated TOO WARM It considerable timeelapeesbetween servings, the beer
WILD Thisdisturbsthe carbonic gas. Alowkegsto real sev in the line may be. cooled loo far, even lo the point of
eral hour after delivery. Don't move them about being chilled,thislosing itsfineflavor.Similarly, if
roughly. the beer it drawn very fast, it may not havetimelo get
Pressure loo high OR TOO C O L D ool enough. Control the refrigeration in the coil box
c
Causes turbulent beer andexcessivefoaming. Decrease Uninsulated pipe lines
pressureasdescribed in Section 3. All exposedlinesmust be wel insulated otherwise vari­
Pitch or sediment in tap rod holes ations in the atmospheric temperature may have a con­
Prevents freeflowand give*sturbulent beer. Clean holes siderable influence over the temperature of the beer
before tapping. Don't ram the rod into the bottom- SECTION
it might damage both rod and barrel lining.
SECTION Too much or toolitileequipment
Uninsulated beer pipe line 4 Dispensing equipment cannot be overtaxed. In case of
Heals up the beer in warm weather—See alao Section 4. too little equipment the beer is drawn too fast and may
1 run-warm, while excessive equipment, standing idle
Kinks or dents incoilsor beer pipe line much of the time, may mult in chilled beer.
Haveauchkinks or dealt removed; results in turbulent
beer. Repairs must be effected. Temperature too low
Holding glass too far from faucet Chiled beerappearsflatand losesitsflavor.Maintain
Results in excessive foaming. Try holdingglasscloser 40°-45° F— . See alsoSection 4.
to faucet. If Your Boor It Insufficient pressure
"Crackingfaucet"(Faucet partly open)
Causes artificial foam anddestroyspart of the quality. Wil not alow beer to Sow freely. NoteLittleor no
Open faucet wide at fastaspossible when drawing beer.
Leaky pressure line
Old, defective beer hose
FLAT
Beer hose hat a limited life. Old how is likely to be
the cause of contamination no matter bow often it it
Leak* alow the gaa lo escape and must be located to
Pressure shut off during night
If Your Beer Is Sagging beer pipe line Thitalowsthecarbonicgastoseparatefrom the beet.
The resulting pockets harboralimeand bacteria which O nce a keg ia tapped, the pressure must be left on con­
are difficulttoremove. Check line for straightness. tinuously until emptied.
Beer chilled in coils Loose bung or lap connections
CLOUDY Beer,leftinlinesover night, usualybecomeschilled, May be caused by rough handling and result in loss of
losingflavorandcolor,appearing cloudy. It thould be SECTION thegassame at through any other leak. Check .carefuly
discarded before serving in the morning. Kegs stored in non-refrigerated compartment
Coils not properly cleaned 5 Storage in a warm, dry place cause* woodenkegslo dry
Merely going through a cleaning procedureisnot out and Spring leaks.
enough unless it it performed in an approved manner,
SECTION preferably by a reliable and experienced expert on this Greasy glasses
type of work. Itispoor economy to do the cleaning Any fatty substance makes beer goflatinstantly. Wash
cheaply but poorly, sud then spoil beer and lose trade, glasses in hot water without map. Rinse in pure cold
2 worth manytimesthesavingon cleaners water. Do not dry glass before wing.
"Cracking faucet"(foucetpartly open)
This practiceisharmful to the beer, having the effect Unsanitary conditions at bar or in cellar
of de-gassing, which sometime*leavesacloudy appear- Remove empty kegs from refrigerating compartment aa
soon as possible. Clear line* every morning of beer that
hat been standing in them over night. Observe strict
If Your Beer Is
Too long beer pipe line Sagging beer pipe line
A long pipe line causes a lot of friction, which it harm­ Forms pockets for accumulation of bacteria and slime,
ful to the beer and makes it almost impossible to draw which ia difficult to remove.
If You Have a good glass. The keg should be as close at possible
Gouge and regulator away from barUN PALATABLE Uninsulated beer pipe line
These devices should be installed at the bar to thai they Guard against the ill effects of possible high tempera-
are readily accessible and under continuous control of lure by insulating all exposed lines.
Old, defective beer hose
PRESSURE Defective gauge or regulator Replace defective hose at regularintervals—itslifeIs
Should be checked occasionaly to make sure that they limited and can be the cauae of unpalatable beer.—See
function correctly. also Section 2.
Air-bound coils Coils not cleaned properly
Results in unsteady flow. Pul on extra pressure for a by specialists atleastonce every week.Usecompound
PROBLEMS moment while faucet it wide open to clear the line. made for purpose, never strong chemical solutions.—
Also note Section 2.
Pressure off during night
Apply pressure immediately upon lapping keg and Rods and bungs
never thut off untilempty—. Seealao Section 5. These must be cleaned regularly, and when not in use,
SECTION hang on wal of box.
Pressure leaks Coil box
Whethergasor compressed air is used, thelosedue to Any mud deposit which may collect in the bottom of
leaks ia considerable. All lines should be checked 6 the coil boxshouldbe removed, asthismud forma an
regularly. insulation which prevents the full refrigerating effect
SECTION Air compressor system of ice for which you pay.
Extreme care must be taken to prevent oil from entering Air compressor location
beer line.—See alsoSection 6. If compressor it used, tee that intake ia extending lo
3 Correct pressure outside to draw free), sir. Should be equipped with an
Depends entirely on: 1. distance between keg and bar: effectivefilteringdevice.—See alao Section 3.
—2. condition and temperature of beer in keg:—3. Foul air line or air tank
whether vertical orhorizontalbeerline;—4. length of Check tank and line for possible accumulation of oil.
coil;—5. whether beer ia drawn fast or slowly:—6. num­
ber of barrelstappedatonetime— . Each installation has dust or water. Clean out occasionaly. Drain tank regu­
its own characteristic! and it it therefore up lo the op­ l arl
y of con denied water.
erator to establish the most affective preaaure. Unclean faucet
If using more than one beer be sure preaaureiscor- Take apart occasionaly, thoroughly remove all deposits
rectly adjustedforeach beer on Up n ismuch as differ­ and then sterilise-
ent pressures may be accessary.

1—Place beer instoragebox immediately 3—Always usea wooden mallet...neveroneof metal...in tapping.
when delivered
NOTE: 2—A rubber emergency bung and extra
wooden bung* thouldbekepton hand
incasea bungisaccidentally split.
4—Whenremoving bung and rod from keg,tapthebung lightly
an eachside,alternately, until loose. Neverusethe rod as a
lever,asthismay band itandcauseit to become useless.
5—Don't hovemorebarrelson top thanrequirementscall for.
Federal Regulations require revenue stamp to be defaced when tapping barrel by driving rod through stamp
S u g g e s t i o n s f o r k e e p i n g a n d s e r v i n g beer. (Chart—courtesy F. & M . Schaefer B r e w i n g
Co., reprinted b y permission o f A . O . Smith Corp.)
 BEERS AND ALES 26l
serve perfect beer, no details are too small to be overlooked, no precau­
tions too great in maintaining and insuring cleanliness of beer service.
Temperature. One of the main causes for flat beer is the American
tendency to serve it too cold. The ideal temperature is 45° F. for beer
0
and 50° F. for ale, although it is customary to chill as low as 4 0 for
0 0
lager and 4 5 for ale. Do not chill below 4 0 ; and the nearer the beer is
to 45°, the better it will taste.
Imported beers should be served at 48° to 50° F., and Bass ale or
Guiness stout should be served at 55° F.
Too cold a beer will be flat and cloudy. If it is too warm, the gas will
break away from the liquid and you will get too much gas. This condi­
tion is called "wild beer." Do not take any chances. Maintain a constant
and uniform temperature. Use a thermometer, and store the barrels as
close to the dispensing unit or units as possible.
Pressure. If an even flow of beer is desired from the tap, the pressure
must be carefully watched and controlled. As some of the natural pres­
sure of the carbonic acid gas is bound to be lost between the time the
barrel is opened and the last glass of beer is drawn, additional pressure
must be supplied. Some people prefer air and others carbon dioxide.
Logic points to carbon dioxide, though at first glance it may appear to
be more expensive. It insures a more even supply of gas from the first to
the last glass and eliminates the possibility of foul air being drawn into
the system, as may happen when air pressure is used. Just as the gasoline
gauge on the dashboard of an automobile permits the driver to check
his supply at a glance, so the gas pressure gauge should be at the bar
where the operator may check and control the pressure.
The chart on the opposite page gives the cause and cure for the most
common beer-dispensing troubles.

HANDLING PACKAGED BEER

Bottled beer should be stored in a dark cool place. Beer exposed to

the direct rays of the sun in a show window for display cannot be used.
It is extremely sensitive to light and will become cloudy after a few
moments, taking on a strange odor andflavorcommonly called "skunky."
Beer in cans is not affected by light, but it should be kept in a cool
place. In the home, beer should be stored in the lowest, coolest part of
the refrigerator.
Opening. When opening aflat-toppedcan, make a small puncture and
allow the pressure to equalize, then push opener down as far as it will go.
When serving bottled or canned beer, pour the beer down the side of
the glass. Do not pour fast as you will get too much foam.
262 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

COMPOSITION OF BEER

Beer is one of the most complex of food products. It contains:

Water 89 to 91 per cent by weight

Alcohol 3.5 to 4 per cent by weight
Carbohydrates
(Sugars and dextrin) 4 to 5 per cent by weight
Protein 0.4 to 0.5 per cent by weight
Carbon Dioxide 0.4 to 0.45 per cent by weight
Mineral Salts 0.2 per cent by weight
As can be seen, the largest part of beer is water. From the point of view
of health, beer is one of the finest beverages one can consume. The alco­
hol with its food value furnishes energy. The carbohydrates give strength.
The proteins help us to assimilate food. The carbon dioxide (gas), which
gives the beer its "head" or "collar," helps the cooling or refreshing effect
which makes beer so popular in the summer time. The hop bitters help
stimulate the appetite.

BEERS OF OTHER LANDS

The beers of Europe that have always found a ready market in America
are the light brews, best examplified by the magnificent Bohemian Pilsner
Urquell of Pilsen, Czechoslovakia. Most of the German, Danish and Hol­
land beers are similar to the Pilsner. They are very pale colored, light,
fresh-tasting beers. From Munich, Germany, also come some much favored
darker colored, richer and slightly hoppier-tasting beers.
England and Ireland have long supplied the American market with
their famous ales and stout, often shipped in their classical pottery or
so-called stone bottles. These brews are of course much darker, richer and
more bitter than those of the continent.
In the Americas, Canada and Mexico, because of their proximity to the
United States, have been the principal suppliers. Canada's very fine ales,
in particular, enjoy an appreciative public, as do the very light, delicate
Mexican beers that are exported to the United States.
I do believe that the beers of Argentina and Uruguay are the brews
that will one day find the greatest acceptance in the American market
because they are some of the finest light Pilsner-type beers brewed in the
Western Hemisphere. I attribute this to two important factors: first, the
spring waters that are utilized, and second, the stringent regulations de­
fining what may be labelled "Cerveza Genuina" (genuine beer). Beer,
under both Argentine and Uruguayan regulations, must be brewed only
from barley malt, andflavoredwith hops. If any other product whatsoever
 BEERS AND ALES 263
is used, the resultant beverage loses its right to be sold as "Cerveza
Genuina". Consequently, it is always a magnificent and most satisfying
beer, whether it be draught or bottled.
SAKÉ

The name Sake is supposed to derive from the town of Osaka in Japan,
which has long been famous for the Sake brewed there.
Sake is not a spirit, it is not a wine, it is a beer. Because of its high
alcoholic content and the fact that it looks like wine, many people call
it Japanese rice wine.
The preparation of Sake is interesting. First, steamed rice, called Koji,
is treated with a culture of a special yeast, Aspergillus oryzae, which con­
verts the starch into sugar. The Koji becomes Moto when it is added to
a thin paste of fresh-boiled starch in a vat. Fermentation begins and con­
tinues slowly for four or five weeks.
Next, fresh rice and Koji and water are added to the Moto. A sec­
ondary fermentation, lasting from eight to ten days, takes place. When
it is completed, the liquor, now Saké, is drawn off, filtered, heated, and
run into casks for maturing for a short period. The action of the yeast
in this case should be noted. It performs the combined functions of sac-
charification and fermentation, doing the work of the diastase of malt
and the yeast in an American brewery.
Sake is quite strong for a beer, usually having from 14 to 16 per cent
of alcohol by volume. It has a sweet first taste and a somewhat bitter
after taste.
Unlike beer, as we know it, it is almost colorless and quite still. It has
none of the carbon dioxide in solution that we find in our creamy beers.
The drinking of Sake, like everything Japanese, is accompanied by
poetic ceremony. It is always served warm, in tiny porcelain bowls which
hold little more than an ounce. The Sake is sipped. Often these Sake
bowls or cups have a little tube on the outside, so arranged that as you
sip you draw in air and produce a whistling sound. These are called
"singing" Sake cups.

WHEN TO SERVE BEER

Beer may be served at almost any hour and is equally appropriate at

any season of the year. It blends with almost" all foods, except heavy
cream-sauce dishes and whipped-cream desserts. The characterisdc sharp
tang of beer adapts it to highly-flavored or spicy dishes, and to such foods
as hamburger, steak, corned beef and cabbage, Irish stew, sausage, cold
264 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
cuts, all pork dishes, fried dishes, and particularly broiled lobster, to
mention only a few. All the sharper cheeses find themselves at home with
either beer or ale.
The uses of beer in cooking are legion and many of the old Colonial
recipes call for beer as an ingredient, showing that the early American
housewives often depended on beer to give their dishes tang and char­
acter.
 25

Cocktails and Other Mixed Drinks

T H E COCKTAIL is a purely American institution, and there are almost as

many versions of the origin of its name as there are legends about the
beds George Washington is said to have slept in. Actually, of course, the
first cocktail was made by that anonymous fellow who first mixed his
wine with a bit of honey or an herb or two to give it zest.
According to James Fenimore Cooper, of Leatherstocking story fame,
it was Betsy Flanagan, a spirited Irish lass, who had a tavern near York-
town, who was responsible for the naming of the cocktail.
In 1779 Betsy's Tavern was a meeting place for the American and
French officers of Washington's Army. Here they came to relax, and to
fortify themselves for the rigors of the campaign with a concoction called
a bracer. The officers used to twit Betsy about the fine chickens owned
by a Tory neighbor until one day she threatened to make them eat their
words.
Now no true patriot would buy anything from a Tory, but Betsy
maneuvered so that the patrons of her tavern had a Tory chicken feast,
and when it was over they repaired to the bar to continue the celebra­
tion with bracers. To their amusement, they found each bottle of bracer
decorated with a cock's tail from the Tory farmer's roost. A toast was
called for and one of the Frenchmen exclaimed: "Vive le cocktail," and
thenceforth Betsy's concoctions were known as "cocktails," a name which
has prevailed to our own day.
The most popular cocktails have always been the Martini and the
Manhattan, according to surveys made by the Ahrens Publishing Com­
pany. There seem to be several reasons for this:
(1) They are dry, sharp, appetite-whetting drinks.
(2) They are traditional cocktail names which are easy to remember.
(3) They are simple to make, requiring less fuss and bother than
many other mixtures and consequently are made more often
in the home.
(4) Those who make these cocktails at home develop a taste for
them and naturally order them when they go to a bar.
265
266 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

These surveys, made in five consecutive years, have brought out several
interesting points in regard to the trend of drinking habits.
The first is that Scotch and soda is the most popular drink in the more
important hotels across the country; second, that long gin drinks, con­
sidered the summer standby of thirsty America, are on the road to being
displaced by rum drinks such as the Daiquiri, Planter's Punch, Rum
Collins, and Cuba Libre, although before the Dry era some of these
drinks were practically unknown in the United States. The third trend
is shown in the increasing popularity of aperitif wines such as Sherry.
A cocktail is a fairly short drink made by mixing liquor and/or wine
with fruit juices, eggs, or bitters, either by stirring or shaking in a glass.
Because cocktails always contain ice, their strength varies with the length
of time they remain in contact with the ice, which dilutes the liquor as
it melts.
Cocktails made from liquor and wine are always stirred, except in a
few private clubs where the membership insists that they be shaken, such
as the Merion Cricket Club of Haverford, Pennsylvania, and the Piping
Rock Club of Locust Valley, Long Island.
Cocktails which include fruit juices, cordials or eggs are always shaken.
To the best of my knowledge, there are no exceptions. Mixing in an elec­
tric shaker gives the same effect as shaking.
A cocktail is as good as its ingredients.
The object of a cocktail is to mix two or more ingredients so that the
resulting blend will be a pleasant, palatable drink. No single ingredient
should overshadow the rest. It should be a symphony with each ingre­
dient playing its part, contributing its overtones and undertones, but
above all, harmonizing with its companions. Lack of such balance pro­
duces an unpleasant discord.
If you want to be sure that your Martinis are always the same, use a
measure for the ingredients and then always use exactly the same quan­
tities. While experienced bartenders usually measure by "eye," their
drinks do vary. This does not necessarily mean that they produce a good
cocktail and then a bad one, but simply that at a large bar, "where there
are several bartenders, no two of them will make identical cocktails un­
less a measuring jigger is used by all of them.

A jigger is11/2liquid ounces.

A pony is 1 liquid ounce.
A dash is1/4teaspoon.

Most recipes are given in parts, because cocktail glasses vary greatly in
size. However, exact measurements are given wherever possible. Remem­
ber, when you make a cocktail, that melting ice will add from1/2to3/4
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 267
of an ounce of liquid if it is shaken for 10 seconds, and proportionately
more if shaken longer.
For cocktails that are to be stirred, use cubes of ice. For cocktails that
are to be shaken, use small cracked ice.
There is no definite standard on which all "shaker" experts agree, as
the perfect recipe is the one you like the best. Furthermore, tastes change
with the times. The best example of this is the manner in which the
fashion has changed for the Martini. It has become progressively drier
to the point where, to me, it has ceased to be a Martini, and is something
else—chilled gin, if you will—since the dry Vermouth has all but dis­
appeared from the mixture. Note the changes:

Martini Cocktail (Original Recipe)

1/2 dry gin
1/2 French dry Vermouth

Dry Martini Cocktail (Pre-Prohibition)

2/3 dry gin

1/3 French dry Vermouth
Dash orange bitters

Very Dry Martini Cocktail (Pre-War)

4/5 dry gin
1/5 French dry Vermouth
Dash orange bitters

Martini (Post-War)
15 parts dry gin
1 part French dry Vermouth

And now something new has captured the popular fancy:

Vodka Martini
7/8 Vodka
1/8 French dry Vermouth

In spite of today's fashion, there are occasional "oldsters" who do enjoy

a medium sweet or a sweet Martini, which include some sweet Italian
Vermouth in the recipes.
 268 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

These ingredients are stirred in a mixing glass with ice and in most
bars a piece of lemon peel will be twisted over the cocktail, after it is
strained into the glass, to give the added "zip" of the oil from the peel.
A Martini cocktail should be garnished with a small olive or pearl onion.
Mixed drinks have a very special nomenclature. Some of these names
are: bracers, cobblers, collins, coolers, crustas, cups, daisies, egg nogs,
fixes,fizzes,flips, frappés, hot drinks, juleps, pick-me-ups, punches, rick-
eys, sangarees, slings, smashes, sours, swizzles, toddies.
The following list should be helpful in identifying the types, the glass
in which they are currently served, and the ingredients of which they
are made.

TYPES OF MIXED DRINKS

Drink Glass Ingredients Ice

Aperitifs Wine or cocktail Straight and mixed Chill

Cobblers Water goblet Liquor, Curaçao or sugar, Small or

brandy, fruit shaved

Cocktails Cocktail (stem glass) According to cocktail desired In shaker

only

Collins Collins Liquor, lemon juice, sugar, selt- Cracked

zer, fruit

Coolers Collins Liquor, ginger ale o r seltzer, Cracked

syrup or grenadine, fruit if de­
sired

Cordials Cordial, liqueur, By name Shaved or

Pousse Café, or wine frappéd
(if frapped)

Crustas Wine Half orange peeled (sugar rim of In shaker

glass) lemon juice. Maraschino, only
Angostura

Cups Stem (glass pitcher) Liquor, Curaçao, cucumber rind, Large ice
brandy, fruit, mint

Daisies Highball (special stein) Liquor, raspberry syrup, lemon Cracked

juice, seltzer, fruit

Egg Nogs Collins Liquor, egg, milk, sugar, nut- In shaker

meg only

Fixes Highball Liquor, lemon, sugar, water, Shaved

fruit

Fizzes Highball Liquor, lemon, sugar, seltzer One cube

 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 269

TYPES OF MIXED DRINKS

Drink Glass Ingredients Ice

Flips Delmonico or small Liquor, sugar, egg, nutmeg. In shaker
5th Ave. only

Highballs Highball Liquor, ginger ale or seltzer One cube

Hot Buttered Mug Hard butter, not much sugar, Boiling

Rum rum hot water

Juleps Tankards or collins Liquor, sugar, mint (frost glass) Shaved

Lemonades Collins Lemon, sugar, water or seltzer, Cracked

fruit

Orangeade Collins Orange juice, water or seltzer, Cracked

sugar, fruit

Punches Bowls, cups, collins, or Claret, Burgundy, Planter's, milk, One lump
tankards made from recipes according to or cracked
contents desired

Puff Collins Brandy, fresh milk, Schweppe's One cube

soda

Rickeys Highball Liquor, lime, seltzer One cube

Sangarees Collins Liquor, slice lemon, sugar, fruit, Cracked

nutmeg
Shrubs Tumblers Special recipes and seltzer One cube
Made in pitcher and
bottled

Slings Collins Liquor, fruit juice, cordials Twocubes

Smashes Old fashioned Liquor, lump-sugar, mint, fruit One cube

Sours Small 5th Ave. or Liquor, lemon juice, sugar, selt- In shaker
Delmonico zer, fruit only

Swizzles (Pitcher) highball or Liquor, sweetening, seltzer In pitcher

large 5th Ave.

Toddies T o d d y (hot) Old fash- Liquor, slice lemon, sugar, cloves

ioned (cold) hot water

Tom & Jerry Coffee cup or special Liquor (Jamaica rum) egg beaten

T o m & Jerry sets hot water or milk, sugar

Twists Collins Same as collins Cracked

Zoom Wine Liquor, honey dissolved in boil- In shaker

ing water, fresh cream only
270 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

COCKTAILS AND LONG DRINKS

The following are standard recipes for the most popular cocktails and
long drinks. (Wherever aromatic bitters are mentioned, use Angostura
or Abbott's.)

COCKTAILS

Alexander

1/3 jigger Crême de Cacao

1/3 jigger dry gin
1/3 jigger heavy cream
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain. Some people prefer brandy
to gin.
Bacardi

1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar

1/2 large or 1 small green lime (juice)
1 jigger Bacardi Gold Label rum
Dash of grenadine
First shake up lime juice, sugar and grenadine until cold. Then put in
the rum and shake until shaker frosts. Strain and serve.

Bronx

In a mixing glass muddle several pieces of sliced orange that have a bit
of the rind on them to give flavor. Into this add:
1/4 jigger Italian Vermouth
1/4jiggerFrench Vermouth
1/2jiggerdry gin
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain.

Champagne
Place 1 lump of sugar saturated with dash of aromatic bitters in glass.
Add cube of ice. Fill glass with chilled Champagne. Twist small piece of
lemon rind over glass and insert.

Cherry Wine Cocktail

3/4 oz. Danish cherry wine
3/4 oz. dry gin
juice of 1/2 lime

Add ice and shake well. Strain and serve in stem cocktail glass. Note, the
gin may be replaced by rum or brandy to suit individual tastes. Also, this
may be converted into a Collins by serving in a Collins glass and filling
with sparkling water.
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 271
Clover Club
1/2 jigger lemon juice
White of 1 egg
1 jigger dry gin
1 teaspoonful grenadine
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain.

Daiquiri
Juice of 1/2 green lime, freshly expressed
1 barspoon granulated sugar
Put some cracked ice in the shaker and shake it until it gets cold. Add
11/2 oz. White Label Cuban or Puerto Rico rum. Shake until the shaker
frosts. Strain and serve.
IMPORTANT ! This cocktail should be drunk immediately, because the
rum, lime and sugar tend to separate if the drink is allowed to stand.

Dubonnet
1/3 jigger dry gin
2/3 jigger Dubonnet
Stir thoroughly with cracked ice and strain.

Jack Rose
1/2 large green lime (juice)
1 teaspoonful grenadine
1 jigger Apple Jack
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain.

Manhattan
1 jigger Rye whiskey
1/2 jigger Italian Vermouth
Dash of aromatic bitters
Stir well with cracked ice and strain into cocktail glass. Decorate with
maraschino cherry.

Margarita
1 pony Tequila
dash of Triple Sec
juice of 1/2 lime or lemon with ice

Shake well in with ice, strain and serve in a cocktail glass rimmed with
salt.
 272 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Old Fashioned
Place in an Old Fashioned glass:
1 lump sugar muddled with1/2jigger water
3 dashes aromatic bitters
1 jigger Rye whiskey
Add cube of ice. Stir a little. Garnish with slice of orange and a mara-
schino cherry. Twist thin piece of lemon rind over glass and insert. Serve
with stirrer.

Presidente
1 jigger White Label rum
1/2jiggerFrench Vermouth
2 dashes orange Curaçao
Dash of grenadine
Add ice, stir well, and strain.

Rob Roy
1/2 jigger Scotch whisky
1/2 jigger Italian Vermouth
2 dashes aromatic bitters
Stir well with cracked ice and strain.

Sazarac
Muddle in an Old Fashioned glass:
1 lump sugar with 1 teaspoonful of water
2 dashes of bitters
3 dashes of Absinthe or substitute
Add 1 jigger of Bourbon Whiskey, 1 cube of ice. Twist a thin piece of
lemon rind over glass and insert. Stir a little, strain and serve.

Side Car
1/3 jigger lemon juice
1/3 jigger Triple Sec
1/3 jigger brandy
Add shaved ice and shake. Strain and serve.

Stinger
1/2jiggerbrandy
1/2 jigger Crême de Menthe (white)
Twist a thin piece of lemon rind over mixing glass and insert. Shake
thoroughly with cracked ice and strain.
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 273

Vodka Rouser
(Better known as Bloody Mary)
1 jigger Vodka
2 jiggers tomato juice
juice of 1/2 lemon
2 dashes Worcestershire sauce
dash of salt and pepper

Shake well with ice; strain and serve.

Whiskey Sour
1/2 jigger lemon and lime juice
1 jigger Bourbon or Rye whiskey
1 teaspoonful powdered sugar
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice. Put in serving glass a cherry and a
slice of orange. Strain mixture and pour into glass.

LONG DRINKS
Cuba Libre
1 jigger White Label rum
1 bottle Coca Cola
Use small highball glass, cube of ice, pour in rum and fill with Coca
Cola. Optional: squeeze and insert quarter of fresh lime.
Gin Rickey
2 ounces dry gin
Juice and rind of half a green lime
Insert in glass two cubes of ice. Then the lime juice and rind, the gin,
and fill the glass with charged water. Stir and serve.

Mint Julep
Use 12 ounce glass or pewter cup. Dissolve 1 teaspoonful of granulated
sugar in just enough water to cover it. Fill with finely cracked ice. Pour
in Bourbon whiskey to within half inch of the top. Stir until glass is
thoroughly frosted. Decorate generously with fresh mint.
NOTE: There are two schools of julep makers: the mint-crushers and
the non-crushers. If you belong to the second school, follow the recipe
above. If you want a more pronounced mintflavor,crush a sprig of mint
together with the sugar and water and leave it in the glass. Then pack
with ice, add the Bourbon, stir and decorate.
274 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Picon Punch
In a 4-ounce whisky sour stem glass place two ice cubes; and 3 drops of
grenadine syrup and 11/2 ounces Amer Picon. Fill glass with sparkling
water, add a twist of lemon peel, stir and serve.
Note: A Picon Punch can also be served with a float of Cognac.

Planter's Punch
1 ounce lime juice
1 teaspoonful granulated sugar
2 ounces Jamaica rum
Dissolve the sugar in the juice of the lime. Next put in the rum and the
cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a 10 ounce glass that is half filled
with finely cracked ice. Decorate with maraschino cherry, sliver of fresh
pineapple, half a slice of orange and sprig of mint. Serve with a straw.

Port Wine Sangaree

11/2jiggers of Port wine
1/2 ounce of simple syrup
Stir well with cracked ice and strain into highball glass with two cubes
of ice. Grate nutmeg on top.
Rum Toddy

1 lump of sugar
1 jigger of Jamaica rum
Fill glass with boiling water. Insert one small piece of cinnamon, one
slice of lemon garnished with four cloves and a thin slice of lemon rind
twisted over glass and inserted. Stir mixture a little and serve with a
spoon. Also serve a small pitcher of hot water on the side.

Sherry Cobbler
1/2 jigger simple syrup
2 ounces brown Sherry
Fill glass nearly full with finely cracked ice. Pour in the syrup and
Sherry. Stir with a spoon. Decorate with fresh fruits in season, cubed or
sliced, a maraschino cherry and a sprig of mint. Serve with straws.

Sherry Flip

1 egg
1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar
1 jigger of Sherry
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain into glass. Sprinkle a little
nutmeg on top.
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 275
Singapore Sling
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce cherry brandy
2 ounces dry gin
Shake well and ice. Top with seltzer and decorate with slice of orange
and fresh mint. Then add through middle with a medicine dropper:
4 drops of Bénédictine
4 drops of brandy
This recipe, according to Bill Lenz of the Savoy-Plaza, is the original
as used in the Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Sloe Gin Fizz

1/2 jigger of lemon juice

1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar
1 jigger sloe gin
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice, strain and fill with charged water.

Sloe Gin Rickey

Made in the same fashion as gin rickey by substituting sloe gin for the
dry gin.

Tom and Jerry

Recipe for one cup (8 ounces). Mix well the yolk of one egg with l tea-
spoonful of powdered sugar. Pour in half a jigger of brandy and half a
jigger of Jamaica rum. Stir mixture thoroughly. Put in the white of egg,
beaten, and while stirring, pour in hot milk or boiling water, to fill the
cup. Nutmeg is sprinkled on top.

Tom Collins

1/2jiggerlimeandlemon juice
1 teaspoonful powdered sugar
1 jigger dry gin
Shake thoroughly with cracked ice and strain. Add two cubes of ice, fill
glass with mineral water and stir a little.

Vermouth Cassis
1 jigger French Vermouth
1/2 jigger Crême de Cassis
Place in 5 ounce Delmonico glass, add cube of ice, fill with mineral water,
and stir.
276 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Whiskey Smash
Muddle one lump of sugar with a half jigger of water and a few sprigs
of mint in glass. Add two cubes of ice. Pour in one jigger of whiskey.
Decorate with four or five sprigs of mint. Serve with small barspoon,
and a glass of charged water on-the side.

Zombie *

1/3 oz. lime juice

1/3 oz. pineapple juice
1 teaspoonful Falernum or simple syrup
1 oz. White Label rum
2 oz. Gold Label rum
1 oz. Jamaica rum
1/2 oz. 115° proof Demerara rum
1/2 oz. apricot liqueur
Shake well and strain into 14 oz. Zombie glass, quarter-filled with ice.
Garnish with slice of orange and several sprigs of mint. Serve with
straws.

PUNCHES AND WINE CUPS

Fish House Punch

2 quarts Jamaica rum 2 quarts water
1 quart Cognac brandy 3/4 pound loaf sugar
1 wine glass peach brandy 1 quart lemon juice
Slack loaf sugar in punch bowl. When entirely dissolved, add lemon
juice. Then all the other ingredients. Put a large lump of solid ice in the
punch bowl and allow the mixture to brew for about 2 hours, stirring
occasionally. In winter, when ice melts slowly, more water may be used;
in summer less; the melting ice dilutes the mixture sufficiently. This will
make11/2gallons, depending on dilution.

This is the original Fish House Punch, made by the Fish House Club,
now called the State in Schuylkill, founded in 1732. I am indebted to
Anna Wetherill Reed in whose Philadelphia Cook Book of Town and
Country this recipe appears.

Maywine
Soak 1/2 package Waldmeister six hours in one bottle of Alsatian wine.
Strain and mix with 12 bottles of Alsatian wine. Add 1 bottle Cham-

* To the best of my knowledge, the original recipe is still a closely guarded secret
of Don the Beachcomber. T h e recipe given above is approximately the one in use in
many-o'f the leading hotels, restaurants, and clubs which feature this novel drink.
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 277

pagne, 2 ounces of Benedictine, 2 ounces of Cognac. Add 14 pound cube

sugar, dissolved in 1 quart White Rock. Decorate with strawberries and
fresh Waldmeister. When sufficiently cold serve in wine glasses from a
punch bowl. To keep it cold, place a pitcher full of shaved ice in the
center of the punch bowl.
This will serve approximately 100 cups of31/2ounces each.

Mulled Red Wine

6 glasses of Claret or Burgundy 2 cups of water
2 lemons 4 sticks cinnamon
1 cup granulated sugar 4 cloves
Boil the water with the sugar, cinnamon and cloves forfiveminutes. Then
add the lemons sliced very thin, cover and let stand for ten minutes. Add
the wine and heat gradually, but do not allow to boil. Put it in a pitcher
or brown jug, and serve it very hot. A silver spoon placed in each glass
will prevent it from cracking.
MIXERS
One last word about mixed drinks. Since one-half to three-quarters of
a highball is made up by the mixer—that is, the water—I cannot stress too
strongly the importance of using a quality mineral water. A flat or metal­
lic tasting club soda has ruined more drinks and cost bars more customers
than any other cause. It is good business to serve a good water.
PREPARED COCKTAILS AND OTHERS

Certain mixed drinks, particularly those whose ingredients include

wine and spirits but not fruit juices, can be very easily prepared in large
quantities, stored and distributed in bottles. These prepared cocktails
are practical for those who do not have facilities in the home for mixing
them fresh. They have the advantage of being uniform and requiring no
fuss to prepare. They can be put in the refrigerator until needed.
The prepared cocktails which will give the most satisfactory results are
the Martini, Manhattan and Old Fashioned. Cocktails that call for fruit
juices in their recipes are not always as satisfactory.
One of the oldest prepared drinks is an egg-nog called Advocaat, which
comes from Holland. It is made from fresh eggs and brandy.
In Italy there is a prepared egg and Marsala drink which is imported
extensively into the United States under the trade name of Marvo.
Today similar drinks are made in the United States from eggs and
brandy, Sherry, and other wines and spirits.
Rock and Rye is the old standby as a preventive for a cold. It is pre­
pared by placing fresh fruits, fine rock candy sugar and Rye whiskey in
bottles. The fruits and sugar sweeten and mellow the taste of the Rye.
278 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

More recently a similar preparation, using rum as its liquor base, has
been marketed with some success. It is labeled Rock and Rum.

PROPRIETARY BRANDS OF SPECIALTIES

There are two outstanding preparations which may be called the

"makings" of a special drink, known, in each case, by the proprietary
brand name that the producer has patented or registered. These are
Pimm's Cups and Southern Comfort.
There are four Pimm's Cups. The original and best known is the
Pimm's No 1 Cup, which is the basis for a gin sling; No. 2, a whisky
sling; No. 3, a brandy sling, and No. 4, a rum and brandy sling.
The story goes that a bartender in a Pimm's restaurant in the London
financial district invented the original gin sling many years ago and the
patrons liked it so well they used to ask that it be prepared for them in
quantities so that they could take it up to the country when they went
on holidays. From the numerous requests of this nature, it was natural
that the drink be prepared in commercial quantities.
As it is bottled, Pimm's is a rather heavy cordial, but when mixed with
cold lemon soda and garnished with a slice of lemon and a piece of
cucumber rind, it makes a very satisfying, cooling, thirst quencher.
It is also said that Pimm's No. 1 Cup was served at the officer's mess of
General Gordon at Khartoum.
Southern Comfort is an American specialty. It was known, originally,
as "Cuff and Buttons" around 1875, when this phrase meant "white tie
and tails." According to the legend, it was a bartender in St. Louis, Mo.,
by the name of Louis Herron, who gave it the very apt name of Southern
Comfort.
The Southern Comfort Corporation states that today the drink is
prepared in the same manner as Louis Herron made it. To a fine old
Bourbon whiskey are added a moderate quantity of peach liqueur and
freshly pitted and peeled peaches. This is allowed to age—to blend—from
six to eight months in the barrel, after which it is ready to bottle. The
fruit and the liqueur help mellow the robust body of the whiskey and
even though it is bottled at 100° proof, Southern Comfort is a velvety
drink—albeit with the kick of a mule. It is difficult to know just how to
classify this preparation. Its producers call it a cocktail, but in character
it seems to be more of a very fine liqueur.
In the olden days they served it with a great deal of ceremony. A wide-
mouthed stem glass specially designed to hold half of a preserved peach
was used. The peach was covered with finely cracked ice and then the
 COCKTAILS AND OTHER MIXED DRINKS 279
glass was filled with Southern Comfort. We are told that "Two to a cus­
tomer, no gentleman asks for the third" was the inflexible rule.
Since the publishing of Margaret Mitchell's book, Gone with the
Wind and the release of the film made from it, several cocktails—the
Scarlett O'Hara, Rhett Butler, and others have been created. All call for
Southern Comfort as one of the principal ingredients. Southern Comfort
should be served cold, whether drunk neat or in a cocktail.
 26

Culinary Uses of Wine

IN EVERY WINE-PRODUCING country, wine is used in cooking as a matter of

course, just as you would use an extract to give more taste and flavor.
The alcohol evaporates in the cooking and the flavor remains; it should
never overpower the taste of the food. Wine correctly used imparts dis­
tinction and zest to the simplest dishes.
In America, which is the melting pot of peoples from every country in
the world, one can find every type of food. If one were to ask what dishes
cooked with wine are typical of American cookery, I would say that we
have many which we can call our very own, and many borrowed from
the French as well as from other countries which we have adapted and
simplified.
The type of cooking you will find in New Orleans will differ from that
of Boston, Baltimore, or Philadelphia. For example, Terrapin a la Phila­
delphia is made with a creamy Newburg sauce using Madeira wine,
whereas Terrapin Baltimore style is made with a clear dark sauce using
Sherry and brandy. Other typical American dishes are Stewed Snapper
(Turtle) and Lobster Newburg, both made with Sherry. Oysters Rocke­
feller of Antoine's in New Orleans calls for a dash of Absinthe (or sub­
stitute) added to the sauce. Our own Baked Ham can be basted with
Sherry, Champagne, or white wine.
All wines can be used in cooking: Sherry and Madeira to flavor soups
and sauces, white wine generally for fish, both red and white for meat,
fowl and game. Sherry also imparts a nutty flavor to fish and shellfish.
A marinade of wine and spices for beef, as in Beef Bourguignon, leg of
lamb, and all game birds helps to tenderize the meat and then when
used to baste the roast while cooking not only adds to the flavor but
makes for a marvelous sauce or gravy. As for desserts, the simplest pud­
ding can be enhanced by a lovely wine sauce; a delicious icebox cake can
be made by using ladyfingerssoaked in rum; fruits in season, marinated
in brandy, to which you add one of the fruit liqueurs before serving, make
a delightful refreshing dessert. The famous Zabaglione is made with
Marsala wine. Our own fruit cake calls for brandy, so do mince meat and
280
 CULINARY USE OF WINES 281

hard sauce. Crêpes Suzette are thin pancakes glorified by their sauce,
whose most important ingredients are brandy and white Curaçao. An
omelet sugared and flambeed with rum just before serving takes it out of
the "plain" class. Bananas sautéed in butter, sprinkled with sugar and
rum, and then fiambeed are a quick and easy dish. Ice creams and ice
cream sauces and souffles are greatly improved with the addition of a
liqueur.
There is only one general rule which applies to cooking with wine:
that is, a good sauce was never made from poor wine. Open the bottle of
wine you will serve for dinner and use a little of it for your main dish.
If you are not using the same wine for both flavoring and serving with
the meal, at least be sure to serve a white wine with dishes which have
been cooked with white wine and red with red wine dishes.

There are no general rules as to when the wine should be added except
that in soups sherry should always be added at the last minute.
Jeanne Owen, Secretary of the Wine and Food Society, has been gen-
erous enough to give me her own recipes for the dishes in the following
menu, taken from A Wine Lover's Cook Book:

Oysters or a Clear Broth

(or Turtle soup with Sherry or Madeira wine)
Coq au Vin (chicken cooked in wine)
Mixed salad
Cheese (optional)
Fruit dessert—fiambeed with Kirsch

T o a Turtle Soup, add one teaspoonful of either Sherry or Madeira for

each serving.
Coq au Vin Perigord
Disjoint a medium sized chicken into about six pieces. Put into the
pot on the fire about 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Dredge your chicken
in flour. Cut up a slice of raw ham into little cubes which you put into
the butter. Now the chicken goes in and when it has been properly
seared, add about 8 or 10 small white onions, salt and pepper, a tiny
clove of garlic, a bouquet of parsley, a sprig of fresh summer thyme (or
a pinch of the season's freshly dried thyme), a bay leaf and a cupful of
button mushrooms.
Keep mixing so that everything gets nicely warm. Then pour over it a
pony of brandy, preferably Armagnac, and light it right in the pot. Blow
out the flame before it goes out. Now add 1 cup of Claret wine (1/2 pint),
282 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

cover your pot and let it simmer on a very slow fire until the chicken is
perfectly tender. Remove the bouquet of herbs.
If the sauce does not hold together, add to it tiny butter balls that have
been rolled in flour and keep stirring until it thickens slightly.
Use an earthenware casserole with a handle—and stir with a large
wooden spoon. The dish can be served right from the casserole—which
not only keeps the food piping hot, but makes serving an easy matter.
This dish is better prepared in the morning and reheated at meal time.

Mixed Salad
For the French dressing, use a large wooden salad bowl. Rub the bowl
with garlic, put in your salad leaves nicely dry, add your herbs—chives,
finely chopped parsley, tarragon, and chervil—salt and freshly ground
black pepper. Now add your oil, a very fine Italian or French virgin oil,
and when the leaves are coated with the oil, add wine vinegar. Three
tablespoons of oil to one of vinegar for each two portions. Mix well and
serve.
Fruit Dessert
One can of Bing Cherries. Marinate with Kirsch (cherry brandy). Set
aside to flavor the fruit. Put in warm ramekin dishes, sprinkle with
granulated sugar and pour over each a little more fresh Kirsch. Light
a match to each dish and serve it flaming to the table.

There are countless dishes to which the addition of wine is an all-

important ingredient. In Filet of Sole Normandy, or Sole Bonne Femme,
white wine is used; Lobster Delmonico takes white wine and a little
brandy; Beef Bourguignon is really a beef stew elevated to a Sunday dish
because of the distinctive flavor given to it by the Burgundy wine in
which it is cooked. All game such as guinea hen, partridge, pheasant, and
quail need wine for their sauces. Since game is dry unless given a rich
sauce, here is where you can use your Port and Madeira wines.

There are many dishes which even the most inexperienced cook can
prepare in which wine is used: Chicken à la King, Chicken Marengo,
Chicken Provençale; Ham in white wine, Ham with Champagne sauce;
Beef Bourguinon; Veal with Madeira; and Veal Kidneys sautéed with
mushrooms, to which a little medium sweet Sherry has been added—to
mention but a few. Sweet potatoes can be cooked with Rum, and even
beer is used successfully in cooking, the most popular recipe of all being
for Welsh Rarebit.
 CULINARY USE OF WINES 283

Sweet Potatoes with Rum *

3 sweet potatoes, parboiled 2 lemons, rind grated

6 preserved marrons 6 teaspoons rum
1 tablespoon sugar
Prepare potatoes as for candied sweet potatoes. Saute lightly in hot
butter for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and the grated lemon rind and
top each slice with 1 preserved marron. Put under broiler in hot oven,
4 0 0 ° , for about 5 minutes. Heat 6 tablespoonfuls of rum and pour a tea­
spoonful on each slice. Light and serve flaming.

Welsh Rarebit
1 lb. American cheese grated 2 tsp. dry mustard
1 tbs. butter 2 tso. Worcestershire sauce
2/3 cup cold beer 1/8 tsp. salt and a dash of Cayenne
Melt the butter. Add the grated cheese, the dry mustard, the Worcester­
shire sauce, salt, and Cayenne. Gradually add the beer, stirring constantly
until mixture is smooth and creamy. Add two well beaten eggs and con­
tinue cooking for a couple of minutes, until slightly thickened. Serve on
toast. (6 portions).

There are countless ways to use wines and spirits in cooking and with a
little imagination you can create dishes of your own, but you can also
consult the many excellent cook books which feature cooking with wine.
I heartily recommend the following:
Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes by James Beard, M. Barrows and Co. Inc.,
has recipes for intriguing appetizers, with an excellent chapter on cock­
tail parties. See also The Cocktail Hour by Louis P. de Gouey (Green-
berg) and 507 Easy Cocktail Canapes by Olga de Leslie Leigh (Thomas
Y. Crowell Co.).
A Wine Lover's Cook Book by Jeanne Owen, M. Barrows and Co. Inc.,
with recipes classified according to the type of wine used, and a use for
every wine in cooking.
Lunching and Dining at Home by Jeanne Owen, Alfred A. Knopf Inc.,
menus and recipes appropriate for each season of the year.
Gourmet Cook Book, Gourmet, N. Y., the best recipes from Gourmet
Magazine.
Paris Cuisine by James Beard and Alexander Watt, Little, Brown and
Co., a tour of the finest Parisian restaurants, with authentic recipes of
the dishes served in them.
* From Anna Wetherill Reed's T h e Philadelphia Cook Book of Town and Country.
284 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Bouquet de France by Samuel Chamberlain, Gourmet, N. Y., an epi­

curean tour through the French provinces.
The Cordon Bleu Cook Book by Dione Lucas, Little, Brown and Co.,
French cookery adapted to America.
André Simon's French Cook Book by André Simon and Crosby Gaige,
Little, Brown and Co., containing 5 2 menus, including the wine to be
served, and recipes for all dishes.
The Wine Cook Book by the Browns, Little, Brown and Co., recipes
from France, the Southern United States, the Far and Near East.
Recipes of All Nations by Countess Morphy, William H. Wise and Co.,
and The New Wide World Cook Book by Pearl V. Metzelthin, Julian
Messner Inc., both containing a number of recipes with wine.
The Standard Wine Cook Book by Anne Director, Doubleday and Co.
Inc., a practical guide to the use of American wines.
The Best I Ever Ate by June Platt and Sophie Kerr, Rinehart and Co.
Inc., a true gourmet's book, with stories told in Sophie Kerr's inimitable
style, that will send you flying to the kitchen.
With a Jug of Wine by Morrison Wood, Farrar Straus and Co., recipes
that emphasize the use of American wines.
America's Cook Book, Charles Scribner's Sons, one of the most com­
plete cook books on the market, with one section devoted to cooking
with wine.
Food by André Simon, Horizon Press Inc., this is not a cook book but
anyone interested in good food will enjoy reading it. Drink is a com­
panion volume.
 27

Menu and Wine List Making

T H E MAUVE DECADE and the years before the first World War were those
in which the art of wining and dining reached its height in this country,
epitomized, perhaps, in the Waldorf-Astoria with its great Oscar as host
to fashionable America.
During the early days of pioneer and frontier America, difficulty in
obtaining condiments, in transporting wines, and even in acquiring the
necessities let alone the niceties of dining, led to meals of a simple order.
The era of Prohibition brought back a period of gastronomical and vini-
cultural depression. But since Repeal, the country has begun again to
cultivate the fine arts of good living, dining, wining and stimulating
conversation.
One evidence of this is the formation, in several metropolitan centers,
of branches of the Wine and Food Society, an organization originally
founded in London by André L. Simon, who so loves his fellow men that
he devotes himself to increasing their enjoyment of the better things of
life.
The Wine and Food Society functions as a nonprofit organization, hold­
ing periodic tastings of wines, spirits, and foods, and occasional dinners.
The object of the society is to make available for its members a gathering
place where they can become acquainted with the most interesting wines
or foods that the community affords, in a manner which would be im­
possible for a single individual. Its accomplishment is educational in the
truest sense, and the society has done much to foster a greater interest in
the art of wining and dining since Repeal.
Several other groups have been formed, and each in its own way is
contributing to the general interest in better eating and drinking.
Whatever the changes in the country's dining habits, and though a new
Waldorf-Astoria has arisen to replace the old, Oscar Tschirky remains the
banquet manager par excellence.
The banquet manager serves an important function not only in a
hotel but in a community. It is his job to know his menus and to know
which dishes the chef prepares best for a small party and which for a
285
286 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

large party. He must know his wines and how to sell them. He must be
the epitome of tact, for it is his job to advise the host or hostess who
consults him, suggest the wine or food they should order, supervise the
details of the gathering, and have a shrewd insight into the tastes of the
person he is advising. All in all, it is an important position requiring
tact, intelligence, and ability.
The following menu is an example of an informal dinner. One wine
can be served through the meal and this can be a dry white wine—a
Burgundy such as Meursault, a Graves, or an Alsatian Riesling.

Crabmeat Cocktail
Essence of Okra aux quenelles
Celery Olives Salted Nuts
Filet of Sea Bass, Bonne Femme
Roast Philadelphia Capon
New Peas and young Carrots au beurre
Pommes Anna
Asparagus, Sauce Vinaigrette
Fresh Strawberries Melba
Parfait glacé à la vanille
Petits Fours
Mocha
(Courtesy of Isaak Peter van Dyke, Hotel Astor)

For the more formal banquet the following menu with its full com-
plement of wines, was served by the Waldorf-Astoria:

Apéritif Les Canapés Russe

Amuse-Bouche Gabriel
Sherry Le Fumet de Gombo
Paillettes Dorées
Céleri Amandes Salées Olives
Pouilly 1928 Les Crabs de Californie
en Turban
Château Léoville L'Entrecôte Grillée Vendôme
Poyferré 1928 Bouquetière de Légumes
Pommes Colorette
Salade de Floride
 MENU AND WINE LIST MAKING 287

Ernest Irroy Feuillantine Nesselrode

1928 Son Sabayon
Cognac Moka
Liqueurs

(Courtesy of Oscar Tschirky, The Waldorf-Astoria)

THE WINE LIST

I would venture to say that since 1933 upwards of $ 1 0 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 has been

spent in printing wine lists which are rarely prepared or used as they
should be. Many times I have been forced to beg a waiter to bring me
the wine list. Why managers invest money in printing these lists without
instructing their waiters to use them is an unsolved puzzle to me.
The wine list is as important a silent salesman for wine as the menu
is for food, and it should always be presented to a guest along with the
menu.
It is not possible to prepare a wine list which would be equally useful
in every establishment, as the wine list, like the menu, must reflect the
character of one particular restaurant and therefore is prepared with a
view to the taste of its patrons. While there is a similarity in certain price
groups, each hotel or restaurant has to bear in mind its own clientele
in preparing its own wine list. A great hotel or fashionable restaurant will
have an elaborate wine list, while a smaller establishment, whose at­
mosphere is one of simplicity, will plan its list accordingly.
For instance, it is not profitable to list a great number and variety of
wines when experience shows that there is no demand for them.
The wine list should be simple, and should list wines, spirits, beers, and
mineral waters. It is no longer necessary to include a chart, indicating the
wine which should be served with a specific dish.
If there is enough space, it will add interest and cause a guest to peruse
the entire wine list if short paragraphs describing each type of wine are
included, such as a short account of Champagne, Bordeaux wines, and
so forth.
Short descriptions of each wine, if there is room for them, will assist a
guest in selecting his wine. In this regard, however, avoid use of the word
"sour," in describing a wine. "Dry" is the better word.
In making up a wine list, check all spellings carefully, copying them
from the labels on the bottles. Correct vintages should also be listed.
Avoid repetition of classes of wine. For instance, one 1929 Sauternes is
enough. There is no point in listing three.
There are no arbitrary rules for the order in which wines should appear
on a wine list, nor as to whether cocktails and mixed drinks should
288 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
appear on a left-hand or right-hand page when a large single-fold card
is used.
My own preference is for the following order:

Champagne Sherry
Native champagne Port
Sparkling wines (Burgundy, Italian, Madeira
etc.) Aperitif wines
White Bordeaux Cognacs and brandies
Red Bordeaux (Clarets) Whiskies (Rye, Bourbon, and
White Burgundy Canadian)
Red Burgundy Whiskies (Scotch and Irish)
Rhone wines Gins
Alsatian French Rhine wines Rums
Rhine and Moselle wines Miscellaneous spirits
Italian wines Liqueurs
Hungarian wines Beers
Native wines (all except sparkling)

I list Champagne first as it is generally the most costly and it is good

psychology for the guest to come upon the most glamorous wine when
he first opens the list. The balance of the listings seem to me to be in
logical order.
Obviously these do not include all the possibilities; on the other hand,
not every establishment need have all of them. Where only one or two
wines of a given class are stocked, several may be listed under one head­
ing, as "Port and Madeira Wines."
If the entire list is printed on a large card folded in the center, allow­
ing space for four columns, wines may be listed in the first column,
mixed drinks in the two middle columns, and spirits in the fourth
column. The two outside columns could be reversed if desired, putting
spirits on the left and wines on the right. Listing mixed drinks in the
center makes for an orderly and neat arrangement.
In addition to the wine list, many establishments having cocktail rooms
find it profitable to print a small secondary list including the most popu­
lar bar drinks such as cocktails, mixed drinks, and spirits. This is gen­
erally called The Drink List. It should be printed on a card, which may
be folded, and it may include a small selection of wines, particularly
Champagnes.
Establishments doing a large banquet and function business often have
a third list, called the Banquet Wine List, which includes a selection of
the more popular mixed drinks, Champagnes, table wines, aperitif wines,
 MENU AND WINE LIST MAKING 289

-6-

ANIJOU- LOIRE -RHÔNE-ALSACE

NO. 1/1 1/2
A N J O UETL O I R E

152 ANJOU ROSÉ. VEUVE AMIOT 2.25

182 CRACKLING WHITE ANJOU №4 2.25

150 FINGOUSIER VIN BLANC D'ANJOU 2.25

153 CÔTEAUX DU LAYON VEUVE AMIOT 2.40

158 VOUVRAY DRY F.SCHOON MAKER 4 CO 1.75 .90

154 SPARKLING :ROSÉORÉMANT1931

RHÔNE VALLEY

47 HERMITAGE CLOS DE CHANTE ALOUETTE 2.50

48 HERMITAGE GRAND VIN BOUM 1929 2.40

MAISON DARPHIN

49 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BROTTE ARMENIER 1929 2.75 1.50

155 TAVEL ROSÉ ANTONIN POINSOT 1933 2.50

ALSATIAN IVINES

479 SYLVANER "COEUR D'ALSACE 1937 1.50

4SI RIQUEWIHR SYLVANER HÜGEL 1937 1.65 .90

480 RIESLING ADOLPHE WILLM 1934 2.25

483 RÉSERVE RIESLING DOPFF 1954 2.25

Page 6 from the very fine wine list of the former Crillon Restaurant, New York. T h e
assortment is well balanced, the wines are reasonably priced. Every entry hand-lettered
by the late owner Otto Baumgarten.
290 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

spirits, and beers; whatever, in short, experience shows to be most ire-

quently ordered at large functions.
It is important for this list to contain a notation in regard to corkage,
which it is customary to charge when guests bring their own beverages.
In most metropolitan centers, this is $ 2 a bottle for Champagne and
spirits, and $1 for table wines.

HOTEL ST. REGIS WINE POLICY

One of the outstanding wine lists in the country is that of the Hotel
St. Regis, New York. This list has been used most profitably because the
management believes that its wine list has a selling job to do and has
produced one that does it. An interesting feature at this hotel is its
announced pricing policy, published in a leaflet entitled "Hotel St. Regis
Wine Policy," from which I quote:
"Convinced that poor winelists and high prices were seriously re­
tarding the use of wine and thus impeding the progress of gracious
and temperate living, the Management of the Hotel St. Regis pub­
lished in 1935 an extensive and carefully selected list of wines at
prices which were recognized as phenomenally low.
"This list attracted wide attention and was generally proclaimed
the finest in the country—as it was designed to be.
"In offering well chosen wines at moderate cost we believed we
were performing a public service and at the same time exhibiting
intelligent self-interest. We expected, in short, to make up the differ­
ence between a small profit per bottle and a large profit per bottle
by greatly increasing the volume of our sales.
"Experience has justified this expectation. The public has cordially
supported our wine policy, and now, in our new winelist, we are en­
deavoring to show our appreciation of that support.
"The new winelist has been months in the making. The wines have
been chosen by means of an exhaustive series of "blind" tastings by
experts. Approximately one hundred wines have been added, not a
few of them great rarities. And because of our large sale of wines we
have been able to scale prices down still further.
"We believe that it is impossible to find upon the St. Regis list a
wine which is not a well-selected example of its kind or that is not
conspicuously low in price.
"It is our pleasure to show the cellars of which we are so proud."
HOW TO USE THE WINE LIST

Although the wine list is a silent salesman, it cannot perform its selling
job unless it receives some assistance from the restaurant's selling staff.
 Scotch Wiskey Cocktails Long Drinks American Wines
Roger Smith .. . .25 Battle 1/2 Bot. class
RogerSmith'sBasScotchis Alexander . .35 Claret Lemonade .... 35
Teacher's Highland Cream Bacardi - .35 Claret Punch .40 1—Champagne
Great Western,
Specially Offerd Extra Dry 3.75 2.00
at 35 40 Benedictine .50 Cuba Libre 40
Brandy .50 GinFizzor Buck 30 2—Sparkling Burgundy. Beaulieu 3.50 2.00
Black & White .35 .40 Gin Daisy 30 3—Clare Beaulieu 1.25 .75 20
Dewar's While Label 35 .40 Bronx .25
Clover Club .35 Gin Rickey 30 4—Dry Sauternes. Beaulieu 1.25 .75 20
Halg & Holg 5-Star 35 40 5—HautSauternes. Beaulieu .1.75 1.00 .30
Cotise .35 Gin and Tonic 35
Vat 69 35 .40 Golden Fizz .35 6—Port. Great Western 1 50 35 .25
Johnnie Walker Bed Label 34 .40 Daiquiri .35 7—Sherry. Great Western 1.50 .35 .20
Royal Fizz 40
White Horse Cellar. .34 .40 Dubonnel ... .30
Silver Fizz .35 Imported Wines
Ballantine (10 yrs old) .40 .45 Havana ........ .40
Jack ROSE .35 Mint Julep .50
Cully Sack . .40 45 Planter's Punch .40
Martin's V.V.O .40 .45 Manhattan Planier's Punch Champagne
Black 4 Whte Twelve 45 50 (Blended Whiskey) 30
(Cuban Style) .40 10—G. H Mumm's Cordon Rouge,
Dewar's Victoria Vat 44 50 Milk Punch
Halg&Halg Pinch Battle .45 .50 (Bonded) . . . . . .35 1929 .7.00 3.75

291 MENU AND WINE LIST MAKING

Martini. Sweet. Dry Gin . . . . . . 30 11 Pol Roger. Dry Special 6.50 3.50
Johnnie Walker Black label 44 .50
King's Ronsom .. .. .45 50 or Medium - .25
*Old Fashioned . .35 Rye 35
Orange Blossom .25 Scotch .40 Bordeaux Wines (Red)
Rye (Blond) Perfect ... .25 Brandy .45
Louis Eschonauer.
Park 4TilfordReserve .25 .30 Pink Lady .40 Ramos Gin Fizz 35
Rum Collins .40 15—Medoc. 1919 1.75 1.00
Calvari's Reserve .... .25 .35 Presidente .35 16—St lullen. 1929 .1.75 1.00
Four ROSES .30 .35 Rob Roy .40 Rum Swizzle 40 17—ChateauPontet-Canet 2.25 1.25
Golden Wadding .25 30 Sherry .25
Lord Calvert 30 .35 Scarlet O Hara .35 Bordeaux Wines (White)
Sloe Gin fizz ... 35
Side Car .50 Barton&Guestier.
Stinger .60 Sloe Gin Rickey 35
Rye (Bonded Torpedo .35 Tom Colins. 35 20—Graves 1.75 1.00
ML Vernon (4", y.s. old) .25 .30 Ward Eight 35 21—Sauternes ...2.001.10
Old Overboil 14'/, уте. old) .25 .30 Champagne .75
22-Barsac 2.10 1.20
Canadian Club (6 yrs, old) .40 .45 (for 2 persons) . 1.24 23 -Haut-Sauternes 2.25 1.25
Seagram* 'V.O." « уте. old) .40 .45 Cognues
choice of Mt. Version Pony Drink Sparkling Burgundy
Bourbon or Old Overholt 4 1/2 Year Caurvoisier V. S.
bonded Rye Whiskey (20 yrs.) 25 .40
25—Chanson. Red Cap. 1926 4.25 2.25
Golden Wedding {Blonded) .25 .30
Hennessy
Old Grand Dad (4 уте. old) .35 .40
Miscellunious 3-Star 25 .40
Port Wine
Old Taylor(4уте. old) .35 .40
Prinks Hennessy V.S.O.P. 30—Cockbum Smithes Dry Club No. 85 Battle Class
(20 yrs.) 30 .45 Choice Tawny. Medium Dry 3.00 .35
Apple Jack Eggnog Martell 3-Star .. 25 .40 31—Robertson's Dry Humor,
Hildick's Black Label .25 .30 Gin .35 Monnel(15yrs.)25.40
Very Fine Tawny 3.25 .35
Rum 40
IRISH WHISKEY Rye .40 Sherry
john Jameson .35 .40 Scotch 45 34—Williams 4 Humbert Dry Sack.
Brandy .. .50
Old Bushmills 35 .40 Sherry Cobbler . 30 Mixed Liqueurs Golden, Medium Dry 4.00 .35
Sherry Flip 35 36—DuffGordon Pinta. Very Pale.
Angel's Tip .40 Very Dry 3.00 .30
Gin Whiskey Sour . .30 B.&B. .30 37—Domecq Double Century.
White Plush 40 Maiden's Dream .50 Medium Sweel 2.75 .25
Whiskey Toddy .35 Pousse Cale 65
GilbeyaLondon Dry .25 .30 Rock andRye. . . .25 Widow's Dream 50 Cardinals
Fleischmann's or Milshire -25 .30 Beers und (lles
AMERICAN POOR Peny
Rum Class Pisches Forbidden Fruit .30 Cherry Brandy - .30
Bacardi Silver
Beer Miscellaneous
Gordon's Dry Labri
- .- .25
.25 30
.30 on Draught .. .10 50 Creme Yvette JO Cointreau 30
Bacardi. Gold Label [Cuban) .35 .40 Southern Comfort JO Creme de Cacao .30
Canada Dry Fist Quert
Local Beers 15
Carioca .-. .25 .30 IMPORTED Creme de Cassis . 30
Ballanone's Ale .25 Ginger Ale . 25 50 Anisette .30 Kummel. Bols . . . 30
Rhum House
Booth's Negritaof Lords (Imported)
35 .35 .40
.40 Budweiser .25 Sparkling Apricot Brandy .30 Maraschino .30
Myer's Planters Punch .35 .40 Pabst Blue Ribbon .. 25 Water 25 .50 Benedictine D. O. M .30 Peach Brandy . .30
Schiltz .25 Syphon of Blackberry Brandy .30 Aquavit. Allborg .30
Sloe Gin. Aperitifs 25
Heublein's .30 BlackHоrseAle Soda 50 Pernod .30
(Dawes) 40 Chartreux Les Peres. GreenorYellow .30
Dubonnel -25 2.25 Heineken's
French Vermouth. Noilly Prat .25 1.75 White Rock .....15.25 Creme de Menthe. Green or White 30
Holland Beer .40 Curacao. Orange. Dry 30
French Vermouth. Cinzano .25 1.75
Grand Marnier. Cordon Rouge 30
kallan Vermouth. Cinsano .25 1.75 Guinness Stout .30 .50 Tonic Water.. .10 Kirchwasser. Pernod's 30
Italian Vermouth, Martini & Rossi .25 1.75 Bass Ale 30 50 Coca-Cola . . . .10 No charge for Frappe
All Highballs Served with individuel Bottles of Canada Dry Ginger Alo or Sparkin Water NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL ROGER SMITH UNLESS CHECKED
PROPERTY
EVEN IN STATES PERMITTING THE SALE OF
COCKTAILLOUNGES
ALCOMOLIC BEVERAGES TO PERSONS UNDER TWENTY ONE
ROGER SMITH WILL NOT SELL TO MINORS 5500-12-59

W i n e list of the R o g e r Smith Hotels. Attractive, printed in dark blue and red o n coated white stock, it is one of
the best lists in use today.
292 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

First, the head waiter, waiter, or waitress (whoever takes the order for
food) should present the wine list together with the menu. At banquets,
two or three banquet wine lists should be on every table.
Second, if the guest or host of a party fails to order a beverage when
ordering his meal, he should be asked: "Do you care to order cocktails or
wine now?"
Third, to sell you must tell; to tell you must know. It is the duty of
the management to have and to impart to the service staff complete
information about the wines stocked. This can be done at the regu­
lar meetings which all well-organized restaurants hold periodically to
instruct the staff on house policies and service, deportment, and so forth.
This is important, as I have never yet known anyone who could sell any
product successfully if he knew nothing about it.
As most waiters depend on tips for a considerable portion of their
income, it should not be difficult to point out to them that they will make
more money (through larger tips) when they sell a bottle of wine or some
other alcoholic beverage to a guest.
The restaurant has everything to gain and nothing to lose by its wine
sales. Wine sales are plus sales because they are made at a time when the
guest would normally not drink any other alcoholic beverage, and they
are sold at no additional overhead to the restaurant.
It is not our province here to discuss food except as it relates to the
wines or other beverages accompanying it. Simplicity is the rule today,
even in formal entertaining, and the fourteen course dinner is practically
a thing of the past.
While there are no set rules about what drinks should be served with
specific dishes, there are some traditional customs which are observed
because they are practical.
I do not agree with the theory that cocktails should not be served be­
fore a dinner at which wine is to be served. If a cocktail whets the appe­
tite, then one should drink it. However, too many drinks on an empty
stomach take away the desire for food instead of stimulating it, because
the alcohol supplies food value and the system may be satisfied before
the meal is begun.
The usual home dinner today consists of an appetizer, a main dish with
its accompanying vegetables, a salad, dessert, and coffee. With such a din­
ner one wine is sufficient. This may be either white or red, depending on
the main course and on one's personal preference. When entertaining
informally this menu may be expanded to include a soup, but the one
wine is still quite correct.
For more formal entertaining, where several wines are in order, the
long-accepted order of service should be followed.
 N°. No. PRECIO
PRECIO

36 Pontet Canet 1893 1.50 3.50 VIM DE BOURGOGNE ROUGE

37. Pontet CanetSansAnnée 3.00
78 Chambertrn Extra-Vielle 5.00
38 LatourSansAnne 3.00
79 Beame , 4.00
39 Mouton RothschildSansAnnee 1.25 З.00
80 Pommard 3 50
40 Mouton Rothschild 1919 2eme Cre 2.50
81 Macon . 3.00
41 St Julien 1.25 82Rom.anéeConte Extra-Vielle 3.50
VIN BLANC BORDEAUX 83ChambertinAlbert Morot 1919 2.00
84Closde Vongeot 1919 • 200
42 Château Yquem 1904 Md'Lor Saluces $15.00
85Chambertin1914 2.00 4.00
43"Yquem 1906 M . d'. Lur Sàluce
86 Pommard 1914 2.00 4.00
44 „ Vigneau de Rayne 1901 Pontac 10.00
MENU

87 Macon 1911 1.50 3.00

45 Contet 1884 M. d'Lûr Saluces 10.00
88 Macon 1914 1.50 З.00
46 „ Yquem 1893M..d'LurSaluce. 1000
89 Beaune 1919 1.50 3.00
47 . Suiduiraut 1884 10.00
90 Nuits 1919 1.50 2.75
91 Pommard 1919. 1.50 2.50
92 Moulin a Vent 1.25 225
50 .LafaureParaguay1904. 8.00
AND
WINE

100 1915 Rüdhom

LIST

64 и Filhot 1917M.. 4.00 101 1921er Rupertsberger Goldshrmidt Win-

65 Yquem 1919 4.00 zergenossen s c h a l t . . . 10.00
66 La Tour Blanche 1920. 3.00 102 1917erRüldesheimerScholossberg Gew. Graf
67 " Olivier 1916 1.50 3.00 von Francken-Siesdorf, Original Fü- .....
68"Perron Extra-Vielle Ilung 6.00
68 Haut Sauternet 1919 3.00 103 1921er Gaubischofsheimer Pfeifer, Gew. А
70 HautSauternesExtra-Vielle 4.00 Ginz 3.50
71 Вагsaс. 1.50 2.50 104 1921er Liebfraumilch 1.75 3.50
72 Sauternes 1920 2.50 106 1921er Rüdesheirer Schlossberg 1.50 3.00
73 Barsac 1920 2.50 106 1921er Johannisberger Erntebringer 1.25 250
74 Olivier, Grand Vin de Graves 1.25 2.50 107 1922er Dürheimer 1.00 175
MAKING

76 HautSauternes(Bodegas Propias) 1.25 2.00 108 1921er Loreher Bodenthaler Riesling Spallese ZSt
76 Langoiran 1918 1.25 2.00 109 1921er Nieritiener Schnappenberg Riesling 251
77 Chateau Rabaud Promu. 1.50 2.50 110 1921er Lorcher Röder 200
293

Wine list of Hotel Plaza, Camaguey, Cuba, prepared by the author in 1924. Prices quoted are dollars.
 294 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

(a) Light dry wines

Full-bodied wines
Sparkling wines
Rich, sweet wines
(b) Do not serve a dry Claret or Burgundy after a rich Sauternes (the
red wines being dry would taste harsh on the sweetened palate).
(c) When two vintages of the same type of wine are being served, the
younger should precede the softer, mellower, older wine. The only excep­
tion is Champagne. In this case, the older comes first, because it will seem
to lack life and vigor if it follows a fresh young wine.
(d) When serving fine wines, it is advisable to avoid vinegar sauces.
(e) When serving dry red or white wine, avoid dishes with sweet sauces.
They will make the wine taste harsh.
(f) Rich, well-seasoned food needs a full-bodied wine. Such food will
interfere with the full enjoyment of a delicate wine, while a powerful
big wine will completely dominate any delicate, light dish. There should
be harmony between them.
In printing menus for formal dinners or banquets, two forms are com­
monly used for listing the wines. One is to print the wines and spirits on
the left side of the menu, listing each opposite the course with which it is
to be served. The other is to list the wine or spirit (brandy or liqueurs)
as part of the menu, putting each wine immediately below the course
with which it is served. In listing wines on a formal dinner menu, full
information as to name and vintage should be given. For example, "1929
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild" or "1934 Gewuerz-Traminer Domaine
Willm" would be proper listings.
Reproduced herewith are two examples of perfect formal dinners which
illustrate the two forms of listing the wine. One was a quite small private
dinner given in honor of Andre I_. Simon at the Waldorf-Astoria. The
other was a Burgundy dinner, given by the Wine and Food Society at
the Hotel Pierre, New York City.
 ... Menu ...
DINER BOURGUIGNON
Cocktails
Tio Pept sherry
L'Escriteau GREAT LAKES WHITFFISH
Avala English Cuvée

MENU AND WINE LIST MAKING

St. Raphael "

Hors D'Oeuvres Chaude au Côte D'Or

PONCHARTRAIN GUMBO

La Bisque D'Ecrevisses aux Croutons Soufflés

CELERY TREE RIPENED OLIVES RADISHES

La Mousse de Brochet Comme à Dijon Puligny Montrachet

Meursault-Charmes 1926 Les Combettes 1935
MOUSSE OF POTOMAC SHAD ROE
Château Gruaud
Suprême de Faisan Pommes Dauphinoises Latose Faure, 1926 NEW JERSEY MlLK FED LAMB
Haricots Verts aux Fines Herbes MaguumS FRESH NEW MEXICO ASPARAGUS
RichebourgVieux Cépages de la Romanée Conti 1934 BERMUDA POTATOES AU LAURIER

CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 1926

La Salade Verte au Viticulture de Côte de Beaune MAGUUM
Chapon D'Ail
Les Fromages CALAVO PEAR SALAD

Boute-Hors HOT KENTUCKY SOUFFLÉ

La Bombe Croix Blanche Gaufrettes
Bollinger 1929 CHILLED CALIFORNIA NECTARINES
Moët et Chandon Imperial Crown Brut, 1928 Magnums
WITH FLORIDA PAPAYA SHERBET
Le Cafe Noir et Chaud
Prunier, Hostellerie Fine Champagne
Le Vieux Marc de Romanée Conti Hine Impérialet Cognac KNICKERBOCKER COFFEE

Menus of two W i n e and Food Society dinners, showing two accepted forms of listing the wines and the food, (left) T h e
wine listed immediately following the dish with which it is served. (Right) T h e wine listed along the left-hand margin,

295
alongside the dish. T h e Diner Bourguignon menu was served at the Hotel Pierre, New York. T h e menu on the right was a
small private dinner given in honor of Andre L. Simon at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York.
 28

Bar Operation*

BAR PROFITS depend on the economical and practical operation of the

bar, for if they are not carefully harbored they can easily slip away down
the drain pipe.
In most instances, a bar represents a substantial investment in plant,
furniture, and decoration. It is imperative to protect this investment by
maintaining a standard of service and quality of beverages on a par with
the decor and the investment.
The success or failure of the beverage business is squarely in the hands
of those who do the dispensing.

THE BARMAN'S JOB

Beverage dispensing should be done quietly and with dignity, creating

an atmosphere of refinement and good taste. The job of barman is no
different from that of any other retail salesman except that, because of
the character of the goods he is selling, he should take extra care to please
his customers and look after their welfare.
The barman's day really starts the night before, for without sufficient
rest he cannot do his best work on the job.
The barman's smile is one of his best sales arguments and therefore
care of the teeth is as important as the most scrupulous cleanliness of the
body. Hair should be well brushed and clean, and cut every two weeks.
Perfumed hair oils or lotions or medicines with any odor should never
be in evidence at the bar. Of course, a clean shave every day is essential.
Clothes should be clean and free from perspiration, stains, or spots.
Underclothing should be changed frequently and a clean shirt should be
worn every day. Colored shirts should never be worn unless they are part
of a uniform. Jewelry of any kind should never be worn while on duty.
Care of the feet is important for the barman. He can't show the cus­
tomer a happy face if his feet are tired and aching. Clean socks help to
• I am indebted to Richard T . Huntington, editor, and T h e Dahls, publishers, of
Bar Management and Beverage Profits for permission to use from that book much of
the material on the "Barman's J o b . "
296
 BAR OPERATION 297

T h e old and the new in bars. (Lett) Note colored glass lighting fixtures, tile floor,
rubber mats, spittoons and shiny mahogany bar. (Right) Modern contrast, indirect soft
lighting, linoleum floor, stools before the bar. Bar of carved wood with leather-
upholstered front.

prevent this. It is a good idea, also, to have two pairs of shoes and change
once or twice during the day. Shoes with built-in arches are available in
many makes and help to prevent that tired feeling. Rubber heels also
relieve the strain.
There is some difference of opinion among barmen as to whether a
white vest, vest coat, or white military coat is best for wear while on duty.
The vest is admittedly easier to work in, but the coat is more dressy and
now, with women to please, the coat is considered better form. If the
hotel, club or restaurant considers a fancy uniform necessary, colors
should be confined to the trimming.
The uniform should be kept clean, pressed, and brushed. Standards
usually call for white shirt, white collar, and black bow tie. Frayed cuffs
may be prevented by having the sleeve length just long enough to allow
the cuff to show, but not long enough for it to get in the way or to be
soiled. In most places dark trousers are worn with white coats. Aprons
are not considered good form today. No smoking at all behind the bar.
The first duty of the day, of course, is to report for work on time,
whether the bartender is to open the bar or to relieve some one else. The
bar should be inspected to see that it is spotlessly clean, that the floor,
walls, windows, and furniture for table service are in perfect condition,
and that the room temperature is right.
At the bar, the woodwork should be polished, back bar dusted, and
bottles and glasses neatly arranged. The mirrors should be clean and
shining. Liquor bottles should be wiped off with a damp cloth each
morning. The work board, drain board, and storage cabinets under the
bar should be clean and ready for use.
Supplies of wines and liquors should be carefully checked so that the
298 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

barman's stock is up to par for the day. His order should be sent to the
store-room and followed up to make sure all supplies are on hand before
the first customer arrives. Ice boxes should be filled with ice. Partly used
bottles of liquor for mixing purposes should be in the liquor box or in
their proper place on the shelves. Then the working equipment should
be checked, as well as the draft beer system.
Next the fruits should be prepared. This should be done just before
time for opening the bar so that they will be as fresh as possible. If the
bar opens an hour or two before luncheon, it is well to prepare only the
fruits for which there will be a call during the luncheon hour. Then dur­
ing the afternoon lull there is time to prepare such additional fruits as
might be called for in Champagne cups and other more elaborate drinks
most often asked for at the cocktail hour, at dinner, and during the
evening.
These fruits will include oranges, lemons, pineapples, olives, cherries;
fruit syrups, such as raspberry; and fresh mint. Only a small amount of
orange and lemon juice, depending on the ordinary demands, should be
prepared in advance, using the less perfect fruit for squeezing, and keep­
ing the finest for slicing and peeling.
Oranges should be of uniform size—about 216 to the crate is a good
size—and either California or Florida fruit may be used. Floridas have
more juice but Californias have a better color. Oranges are cut in half
from top to bottom (use Californias for slicing). Cut slices about a fourth
inch thick, discarding the end pieces. Slices should be kept together as
much as possible until used, to preserve their freshness. The main supply
should be kept, if possible, in a refrigerator, covered with a moist napkin.
Lemon slices should be about one-quarter of an inch thick. Begin by
cutting the lemon in half in the middle as for juicing. Then cut back
each half, throwing the ends away.
Where pieces of twisted lemon or orange peel are called for, start at one
end of the whole fruit and cut a strip about three-quarters of an inch
wide, skin deep, the length of the fruit to the other end. If a special piece
of lemon or orange peel is called for, start at one end and cut a strip
about three-quarters of an inch wide spirally, as when peeling an apple,
until the other end is reached.
Fresh pineapple should be used when obtainable, although canned
pineapple juice is standard. The best method of preparing this fruit is to
cut it into half-inch cubes, with some strips about three inches long. Pine­
apple should be used only in punches, long drinks, sours, and lemonades.
Olives and cherries should be placed in handy containers so that they
may be reached easily. Only pitted green olives, especially prepared for
cocktails should be used and the best size is 120s to 130s. Stuffed olives
 BAR OPERATION 299
should never be used. Maraschino cherries especially prepared for cock­
tail use, pitted but with the stems left on, are the best. No broken fruit
should be used.
The appearance of a drink has great eye-appeal. The professional
touch is given when it is well-garnished with fruit.
Finally, the dishes on the bar should be filled with whatever appetizers
the rules of the house call for, such as pretzels, cheese crackers, cheese,
peanuts, and so forth.

SOME RULES FOR THE BARMAN

1. Your manners will be reflected in your sales. After you have served
a drink step back from your customer or move away. Never appear to
listen to the conversation and never take part in it unless directly ad­
dressed.
2. Cultivate a good memory for the faces and tastes of your regular
customers and greet them pleasantly when they come in.
3. Handle complaints courteously. At the bar the customer is always
right unless he is intoxicated. If he complains about his drink, fix it up
or mix another. A bar quickly gets a reputation for fine drinks and cour­
teous service—and it can lose it just as quickly.
4. Never hurry a customer or show that you are impatient. Don't show
by your manner that you think a customer is drinking too much—or too
little.
5. If you must answer a telephone at the bar, do so quietly. If the call
is for a patron, never say that he is there. Instead, say that you will in­
quire, and leave it up to the patron to decide whether or not he wishes
to answer the telephone.
6. Be co-operative and friendly with the other employees.
7. You are not a barman until you can fill four glasses to just the right
height (about a quarter inch from the top) and not have a drop left over
in your bar glass. If you can't do that, practice until you can. Be sure
you know how to mix standard cocktails without referring to a book. A
helpful trick in starting is to take a glass cutter and make a few tiny
marks on the outside of the bar glass, showing where the main ingredients
for Martinis and Manhattans come to for one, two, three and four drinks.
These marks should be invisible to the customer. It is simpler to gauge
the ingredients if you put them in before putting in the ice.
8. When a drink is ordered,firstplace the required glass on top of the
bar. If more than one drink is ordered, place the glasses in a straight row
with the rims touching. Then place your mixing glass on the bar and
pour the ingredients into it where the customer can see it. Allow for the
ice melting during the shaking process.
300 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

9. In pouring more than one drink, run your mixing glass back and
forth over the row of glasses, filling them all first quarter full, then half
full, then full. Never fill one glass first and then another.
10. As soon as you have mixed a drink, put the bottles back in their
proper places, no matter how rushed you are. This saves time. Rinse your
bar glass, shaker and strainer, and yon are ready for the next one.
11. As a rule, standard recipes should be followed. If the barman has
regular patrons he should study their likes and dislikes and make their
drinks the way they prefer. Adhering too closely to formula for patrons
of individual tastes will drive business away.
12. Many houses now require the use of the jigger. Modern types of
bar control make it necessary to account for every drink. An inexperi­
enced barman often has a little left over in the shaker, which goes down
the sink. This waste is trifling on one drink, but if it is repeated often
during a day, the loss is substantial.
13. When properly priced, cocktails, especially those made with gin,
Vermouth, wine, or fruit juices, are most profitable, as a higher price is
charged than for straight drinks and a smaller quantity of liquor is re­
quired. Drinks of this type should be pushed.
14. When preparing standard cocktails like the Martini and Manhat­
tan, use cubes or large pieces of ice. Finely chopped ice melts too rapidly
and dilutes the cocktail too much.
15. Cocktails that are shaken should be shaken briskly and not too
long, as the ice will melt and weaken the drink.
16. When serving straight drinks or highballs and the customer has
the bottle in front of him, it is a good idea to put the cork back in the
bottle each time a drink is served. This will help you keep check on the
number of drinks poured.
17. Do not serve a drink from a bottle that is nearly empty, when it
can be avoided. Keep this for mixing cocktails.
18. All glasses should be wiped twice. First to dry and second to give a
polish.
SUGGESTIONS TO MANAGERS

1. Keep a barman who is a barman.

2. It pays to listen to the barman's suggestions. Napoleon was a very
smart man but he had a motto that goes as follows: "There are days when
one needs someone smaller than himself."
3. If you have no confidence in your barman, don't keep him.
4. A good barman is worth a good salary in the added business he
brings you.
5. Show the barman you are interested in him.
 BAR OPERATION 301

6. Do not set too rigid rules for him, as often he needs to make excep­
tion to the rules to please a customer.
7. Many organizations find they do better by training their own bar­
men. After several weeks of training, the best is picked out as assistant
bartender, and gradually given more responsibility in accordance with
his abilities.

IMPLEMENTS FOR THE BAR

Aside from the necessary glassware, which is discussed in Chapter 29,
the man behind the bar needs a number of tools of his trade, some of
which are stationary, some movable. The stationary equipment is the
province of the architects who design the physical construction of the bar.
I might point out that it would be a just punishment for some of these
architects to have to work behind the bars they have constructed. They
would discover what it is like to mix drinks in a space scarcely big enough
for a mole, let alone two men trying to serve a number of people. The
space between the front and the back of the bar should be wide enough
so that two men can pass each other without jostling. The front section
should not be too low, but so arranged that the barman can reach ice,
mixing glass, and bottles with ease.
The principal implements needed in a bar are:

Silver cocktail shakers Ice pick

Mixing glasses (small and large) Ice tongs
Electric mixing machine (the War­ Ice scoop
ing is probably the best and most Ice shaver
modern) Spoons: long bar; medium bar;
Lime and lemon squeezers mixing; sugar; small old fash­
Electric orange juice extracter ioned
Stainless steel fruit knife Stirrers
A patent cork puller Muddler (wood)
Corkscrews Sugar bowls
Bottle opener Salt shakers; nutmeg shakers
Beer can opener Beer scraper (bone)
Egg beater Glass pitchers for wine cups with
Strainers: silver fruit strainer; wire silver strainers (detachable)
rimmed, handled strainer Bitters bottles
Two-way jigger Clean towels

THE HOME COCKTAIL BAR

In some homes the closet or pantry where the supply of beverages is

stored has to perform the added function of a bar, while in others a cor-
302 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

ner of the recreation room has an artistically arranged bar with all the
necessary accoutrements. Whichever one has, these are the implements or
gadgets needed to make it a practical working bar and a corner of the
house which host and guests will enjoy using.

USEFUL EQUIPMENT FOR A HOME BAR

A generous cocktail shaker Corkscrew, bottle opener, and beer
A large heavy mixing glass can opener
A muddler for Old Fashioned cock- Sharp stainless steel knife for cut-
tails ting fruit
A measuring jigger or cup Lemon and lime squeezer
Long mixing spoons (iced tea spoons A flat bar strainer
will do) A bucket in which ice may be kept
Cocktail, highball, and Sherry (when cracked ice is needed, it
glasses (which can be used for should be cracked in the kitchen)
other wines, and in a pinch for
Electric blender
cordials, too)
It is difficult to say what supplies are indispensable, as this must be gov-
erned by the individual taste and on the assortment of drinks the host
wishes to offer his guests. The following list of supplies is consequently
offered in the nature of a guide, and no quantities are given, for the
same reason. (In the chapter on Purchasing, recommendations are made
for A Beginner's Cellar, An Amateur's Cellar, An Adventurer's Cellar,
and A Gourmet's Cellar.)
USEFUL SUPPLIES FOR A HOME BAR

Lemons Orange Bitters

Limes Aromatic Bitters
Oranges Rye Whiskey
Maraschino cherries Bourbon Whiskey
Small cocktail olives Scotch Whisky
Small cocktail onions Dry gin
Fresh mint French Dry Vermouth
Sugar, both granulated and pow- Italian Sweet Vermouth
dered Medium Sherry
Tawny Port Apple Jack
Cognac Brandy Benedictine
Crême de Menthe Crême de Cacao
Triple Sec White Label Cuban rum or Puerto
Jamaica Rum Rican rum
Grenadine Quality mineral water
Ginger ale Coca Cola
 BAR OPERATION 303

DO'S AND DON'T'S IN MIXING

Do not make up more cocktails than are needed to fill the exact num­
ber of glasses. The custom of "dividends" is one of the horrible inherit­
ances from Prohibition. The remains in the shaker are usually tasteless
and watery from melting ice.
Drink a cocktail—do not sip. It tastes better when freshly made. If al­
lowed to stand, some of the ingredients tend to separate. This is particu­
larly the case with mixed drinks that contain fruit juices and sugar.
Cocktails made of liquor and wine may be prepared in quantity in
advance of a party, but those which include fruit juices are better if
freshly mixed just before drinking.
If the recipe calls for the juice of limes, use fresh green limes for best
results. This is particularly true with rum drinks, such as the Daiquiri,
Planter's Punch, or Swizzle. Lemon juice will not give the sharp acid tang
necessary for best results with rum.
 29

Beverage Service

T H E FIRST WINE GLASS is said to have been made from a bubble of sea-
foam cut in half by Aphrodite as she came forth from the sea—a pretty
myth, and one that has a point. The wine glass should be crystal clear.
Undoubtedly, the first cup man used was his hand. As he became more
civilized and acquired tools with which to fashion implements, he made
himself a drinking vessel. The earliest one was fashioned from a dried
gourd. Later on, he experimented with wood, shells, metals, and finally,
when he learned how to work with glass, he made the first of our present-
day containers. The origin of glass is credited both to the early Assyrians
and to the Egyptians. The examples of early glass drinking cups which
survive today are misshapen and not very transparent, but even so they
were useful and a great improvement on other containers of potables.
As time went on and the art of glass blowing was improved, much
beauty and perfection of line were blown into wine bottles and goblets.
Later the art of glass cutting further enhanced the elegance and beauty
of the container.
The most famous glass-makers were the Venetians and Bohemians.
They had a secret for coloring their glass which no one else possessed,
and up to the end of the last century colored glasses for wine were still
the fashion. There was a definite reason for color in wine glasses. More
often than not the wine was not perfectly clear. It had sediment in it and
was dull and uninteresting to look at, but since our vintners have learned
to "fine" their wines—and wines today should always be perfectly bril­
liant when shipped—this reason is no longer valid.
The enjoyment of beverages, and wine in particular, calls for the use
of three senses: sight, smell, and taste. Before we smell or taste a wine,
we see it. There is pleasure in the bright red of a Claret, the deep ruby
of a Burgundy, and the limpid, mellow, golden hue of a white wine, to
say nothing of the dancing brightness of Champagne as the bubbles rise
before your eyes. The very sight of wine shimmering in a clear, transpar­
ent, delicately stemmed glass increases the pleasure of anticipation. A col­
ored glass deprives you of this pleasure and I say a plague on it.
304
 BEVERAGE SERVICE 305

T h e Grossman Ail-Purpose W i n e Glass. Suitable for light beverage wines. Note the
line marking the four ounce fill. Designed by the author. (Photo—Stevens)
 306 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

GLASSWARE FOR THE HOME

The glassware needed for a well-appointed house and that required

for a hotel are two different problems. For the home it is unnecessary to
have many different shapes and sizes. Many beverages may be served in
the same size glass.
A complete set of glassware to take care of all needs in a home which
entertains up to twelve guests at a dinner should include:
12 Cocktail glasses of a conventional shape to hold 3 or31/2ounces
12 Sherry or dessert wine glasses21/2ounces
12 All-purpose wine glasses 7 ounces
12 Brandy glasses marked for 1 ounce
12 Highball glasses 1 0 ounces

THE IDEAL WINE GLASS

The glassware people in their desire to be of service at the time of Re­

peal did much to frighten the American public away from wine, by ad­
vocating the use of a different glass for every type of wine. The number
of types of glass necessary and some difference of opinion as to what type
of glass should be used with certain wines, prevented a number of people
from serving wine at all.
The ideal wine glass should be:
1. Beautiful to look at, with simple, graceful lines.
2. Generous—7 ounces—so that you can pour enough wine (4
ounces) for a satisfying drink and still have room in the glass
to swirl the wine around and get the full benefit of its aroma.
3. The mouth should be slightly smaller than the widest part of
the bowl so that the bouquet of the wine is gathered to a point
for the maximum enjoyment, but the mouth should be wide
enough so that the upper edge does not strike the nose when
the glass is tilted for drinking.

THE ALL-PURPOSE WINE GLASS

Bearing these essential points in mind, I have designed an all-purpose

wine glass that embodies these features: a glass that is quite proper for
red and white table wines and all sparkling wines. It has an added fea­
ture which I believe is a new departure in wine glasses: an etched line
to mark the four-ounce fill. This glass is now obtainable on the market.
 BEVERAGE SERVICE 307

Restaurant and bar glassware. First row from left to right: Cocktail decanter in silver
liner, small cocktail, California cocktail, Savoy-Plaza Peach Maison Champagne cock­
tail, Daiquiri or parfait cocktail, Champagne cocktail, Sherry, Port. Second row. Water
goblet, saucer Champagne, two Champagne goblets. Burgundy and Claret, white wines,
Rhine and Alsatian wines, brandy inhaler, line brandy o r cordial. Third row: Lem­
onade, T o m Collins, high-ball, small high-ball, Delmonico, Old-Fashioned, large
whiskey, whiskey. Fourth row: Pilsner beer, stein, pewter mug, T o m & Jerry cup,
punch cup, hot whiskey, Absinthe drip. T h e glasses illustrated were furnished to the
author by the Plaza, Savoy-Plaza, St. Regis and Waldorf-Astoria Hotels of New
York. (Photos—Stevens)
308 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

HOTEL SERVICE
In a hotel or restaurant, the problem of glass service is entirely differ­
ent. Tradition and showmanship enter the picture and the requirements
are far greater and stricter.
A fine hotel or restaurant must have conventional glassware both for
its bar service and its wine service.
The bar must have available the following assortment:

Whiskey 1 1/2 ounces Line brandy (line marks) 1 ounce

Old Fashioned 6 ounces Pony brandy or liqueur 1 ounce
Delmonico 5 ounces Brandy snifter no larger than 5
Small highball 8 ounces ounces
Large highball 10 ounces Punch 5 ounces
Tom Collins or lemonade Hot Toddy 5 ounces
12 ounces Absinthe drip glass 10 ounces
Cocktail (various shapes and sizes) Tom and Jerry mug 5-6 ounces
3 to 4 ounces Beer shell 8-10 ounces
Daiquiri 4 1/2 ounces Beer seidl 16 ounces
Champagne cocktail 5 ounces Stein 10-12 ounces
Sherry 2 1/2 ounces Punch bowl glass or silver
Port (Madeira and aperitif wines) Wine cooler silver
21/2ounces

THE DINING-ROOM WINE SERVICE

Water goblet Champagne 7 ounces
Rhine wine, tall, stemmed, squat Sherry 2 1/2 ounces
bowled 6 ounces Port 2 1/2 ounces
Claret (Graves, Sauternes, white Brandy snifter 5 ounces
Burgundy) 6 ounces Line brandy (line marks) 1 ounce
Burgundy and red Rhône Pony brandy or liqueur 1 ounce
7 ounces

All of these and such fancy glasses as are the vogue for a short period
of time have their place. No hotel or restaurant which lays claim to lead­
ership in a community can hope to get along without them. While in a
private home the one all-purpose table wine glass may serve nicely, a
hotel or restaurant which serves formal dinners or banquets must serve
each wine in its traditional glass. This does not mean that a wine will
taste better in it, but, just as dinner clothes invest a formal gathering with
a dignity which is lacking when informal dress is the rule, so the proper
glassware for each wine lends its dignity and elegance to the affair. In
other words, it is good showmanship.
 BEVERAGE SERVICE 309

HOW TO SERVE WINE

What beverages are served cold? All white wines; all sparkling wines;
all pink wines; all beers; all cocktails; most mixed drinks; certain spirits
which are consumed as aperitifs such as Vodka and Akvavit; all aperitif
wines; very dry Sherry, and very dry Madeira.
The following generally are served at room temperature: All red wines;
medium and rich Sherries, Madeira, Port, Marsala, and all spirits when
taken neat, such as whiskey, gin, rum, brandy, and liqueurs. Exceptions
are Vodka and Akvavit, mentioned in the preceding paragraph.
Exceptions make the rule, and even a liqueur, with all its sweetness,
can be very pleasant in the summer if it is chilled. In fact, a liqueur like
Crême de Menthe is much more enjoyable if it is well-chilled.
How cold should a wine be when it is served? This is a moot question.
It depends, in the last analysis, on the individual taste of the host in each
case. The general rule is that the drier wines should be served colder than
the sweet, and that no wine should be chilled below 42 ° F. (45° is cold
enough). This can be accomplished by placing the wine in a refrigerator
for two or three hours prior to serving, or by placing it in a wine cooler
and packing the bottle with ice for 20 to 30 minutes.
What does room temperature mean? Just what it says. The usual room
temperature in the United States is between 70° and 75°. If the wine has
been stored in a cellar where the temperature is lower, it may be brought
to room temperature by standing the bottle for a few hours in the room
where it is to be served. WARNING! Under no circumstances should the
wine be warmed artificially, either by plunging the bottle in hot water or
by placing it in or near a heater. This will harm the wine. It is better to
drink a red wine too cold than to spoil it by heating it.

OPENING A BOTTLE OF WINE

1. Cut and remove the capsule to just below the bulge which is to be
found on all wine bottles. With a clean napkin wipe the mold or dirt
you will usually find between the cork and capsule. The reason for this
is that it is impossible to pour wine from a bottle without some of it spill-
ing or slipping over the lip. Since the metal capsule is often corroded or
moldy, the wine would taste tainted if it came in contact with the metal.
2. Insert the corkscrew (and I recommend the lever type) in the center
of the cork. Drive it in as far as it will go, then lever it out with an even,
confident motion. Do not jerk it out nervously, as that will shake up the
wine. If you use the T corkscrew, drive it into the cork, then grasp the
bottle firmly with the left hand. Hold the bottle so that the shoulder
rests in the palm of your hand—grasp the corkscrew with the right hand
—hold the bottle between your knees and pull slowly and evenly. Do not
pull straight out, but give the corkscrew a slight turn to the right.
 310 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
3. The cork out, wipe the mouth of the bottle both inside and out with
the napkin. You are ready to serve.

OPENING A BOTTLE OF SPARKLING WINE

Six steps in the business of opening and serving a bottle of Champagne,
or any sparkling wine:
1. If the bottle is presented in a Champagne cooler, it should be stood
upright in the cooler and fine ice packed tightly well up around the neck.
2. Remove the bottle and wrap a clean napkin around it. The pressure
within a bottle of Champagne is around 8 atmospheres, or some 96
pounds to the square inch. The glass of the bottle is quite thick and when
the wine has been properly chilled, the glass is cold and contracted. A
warm hand against the bottle will cause surface expansion at the point
of contact. It is possible, under such conditions, for a bottle to burst. I
have seen such an explosion occur, and it is dangerous. True, the chances
of it happening are remote, but if the bottle is wrapped in a napkin or

Serving Champagne. (Upper left) Bottle removed from cooler, wrapped in napkin.
o
(Upper right) Foil and wire removed. Bottle at 4 5 angle. (Lower left) Cork eased
out. (Lower right) Napkin removed. Bottle held so label can be read. Pour in two
motions. (Photos—Hotel Management)
 BEVERAGE SERVICE 311
cloth, the chances of bursting are greatly reduced, and even if it should
happen, no one would be hurt.
3. Remove the foil or metal capsule to a point just below the wire
which holds the cork securely. Hold bottle firmly in left hand at an
angle of 45° unwind and remove the wiring. With a clean napkin, wipe
neck of bottle and around the cork.
4 . Holding the bottle at the same 45° angle, with the right hand grasp
the cork, ease it out by turning it to the right. Be sure to hold on to the
cork tightly so that it won't fly out and strike someone. It will come out
with a resounding "pop."
5. After the cork is out, keep the bottle at an angle for about five sec­
onds or until the pressure within has equalized itself with that outside the
bottle. If you hold the bottle upright when the cork is released, the gas
will rush out and carry a goodly part of the wine with it, to say nothing
of giving you a Champagne bath.
6. Once the cork has "popped," remove the napkin as there is no fur­
ther need of it. Champagne and sparkling wines must be served in two
motions. Pour wine until the froth almost reaches the brim of the glass.
Stop. Wait a moment until this foaming froth subsides, then continue
pouring to fill the glass 2/3 to3/4full. Be careful not to pour too rapidly
or the wine will froth over the lip of the glass.
It is not necessary to drape either red or white wine in such a manner
as to hide the label unless one is ashamed of the wine he is serving. How­
ever, a bottle which is in an ice bucket should be carefully wiped dry each
time it is withdrawn to insure against drops of ice water trickling down
a lady's back.
SERVING WINE

Back in the Middle Ages a popular way of poisoning your enemies was
to ask them to dine, and sometime during the festivities they would drink
a goblet of poisoned wine. A guest had to be wary in those days.
Gradually the custom arose for the host to taste the wine before his
guests to allay their fears. Today, too, the host samples the wine before
his guests are served, but this practice has a far more reasonable angle.
It is the means of assuring the host that his wine is in perfect condition.
When serving at home, when there are no servants, the host should
serve himself and then his guests. First he should fill his own glass about
1/4 full and satisfy himself of the quality of the wine. Then, around the
table, clockwise, he should fill the glasses of the ladies first, then those of
the gentlemen. Or the glasses may be passed to him and passed back.
After all the glasses have been filled, he should fill his own. The wine
glass should not be more than 2/3 to 3/4 full.
312 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The open wine bottle may be kept at the right of the host. Where
there are servants, the bottle is usually placed on the sideboard until it
is needed. Wines that are chilled should be kept at the right of the host
in a bucket, or, if there are servants, in a bucket on the sideboard.
In hotel service, when serving either Sherry, Scotch, or any product
ordered by brand name, it is my opinion that the bottle should be
brought to the table. It is not always practical, but wherever it is prac­
tical, it makes a better impression on the guest if the waiter does this.
Then there is no question that the customer is getting what he ordered.
Wine should be brought to the table before it is time to serve it. If
more than one wine is to be served, all wines should be either on a side
table or chilled in buckets where the host and guests can see them.
Always pour with the right hand, never with the left. From which side
should you serve the wine? Whichever is more convenient. Usually from
the right of the guest as the glass is set at the right of the plate. Waiters
should always see that every guest's glass is filled. It often produces the
sale of an extra bottle of wine.
When it comes to serving liqueurs, I am partial to having two waiters,
one to hold the glass and the other to pour the liqueur.
In serving wines, cocktails, and spirits, no glass should ever be filled to
the brim. It is impossible to carry it on a tray without spilling, and the
result is sloppy service, and a wet glass.
The Burgundy basket was created in Burgundy for the sole purpose of
removing the bottle from the cellar bin in the horizontal position in
which it lies, so that the sediment in the bottle is not disurbed. If the
bottle is taken under the arm and stirred up, the object of the basket is
wasted. Its sole purpose is to leave the wine undisturbed.
Certain very old red wines should be decanted in the cellar. The ob­
ject in decanting is to draw off the clear wine and leave any sediment
there might be in the bottle. It is not necessary to decant white wines,
as they rarely have a heavy deposit. Avoid the use of a filter in decanting
wine as it takes out some of the taste. Wine should be decanted a half
to three quarters of an hour before serving, to give the wine a chance to
breathe, which is the second good reason for decanting. However, if a
decanter is not available, I find it a good practice to uncork red table
wines (Clarets, Burgundies, and so forth) an hour or two before they are
to be served. This is particularly advisable if the wine is young. It will be
found that contact with the air expands the bouquet and enhances the
enjoyment of the wine.
In decanting, the decanter must be perfectly clean and dry. Place a
candle or a light behind the bottle neck and the moment you see any
sediment coming over, stop.
 30

Purchasing

CONFIDENCE IS THE FOUNDATION on which the wine and spirit trade has
been built throughout the centuries. The wholesale distributor has con­
fidence in the producer or shipper, the retailer has confidence in the
wholesaler, and the consumer has confidence in the retailer.
Just what constitutes the basis for this confidence? It is a combination
of factors—quality, price, and service—each in relation to the other.

QUALITY VERSUS PRICE

Quality is foremost in importance, for if this is lacking, the other fac­
tors do not interest the purchaser. Obviously, a product may be of good,
sound quality and yet be inexpensive, while a similar product of better
quality will be more costly. In both cases the purchaser gets his money's
worth. It is value the purchaser looks for when he buys a product. Value
is quality in relation to price.
Naturally the question of determining the quality of a product presents
some difficulties unless samples are available. It is important for the buyer
to know the product he purchases by actual taste. Comparative qualities
can be determined only by comparative tastings. It is important that the
salesman, whether wholesale or retail, be sold on a product himself be­
fore he can sell it to someone else.
For instance, if two whiskies are under consideration and the price of
one is 25 per cent more than the other, the buyer must be satisfied that it
is at least 25 per cent better in quality, or the values will not be equal.
When quality and price are equal, the intangibles enter the picture. For
example, if similar products of similar value at a similar price are offered
for sale by different houses, the one which gives the best service will usu­
ally get the order.
While the foregoing applies to trade buyers, it is equally important
that the consumer or non-licensee purchaser should also sample, in mak­
ing a quantity purchase of a given type .of beverage. In most states, how­
ever, sampling in a retail store is not permitted by the regulations. It is
wise, in this case, to follow the wine merchant's suggestions on one or two
313
314 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

brands and purchase a bottle of each. After tasting them, the purchaser
can determine which he prefers in quality, and rate its value in relation
to its price.

DISTRIBUTOR'S SALES REPRESENTATIVE

The sales representative of the distributor or wholesaler is important

to the retail trade buyer because he brings information of constant mar­
ket changes; he can provide merchandising ideas and can render many
little services that make the buyer's life an easier one than it might other­
wise be.
Of course, the sales representative who approaches his work with an at­
titude of being eager to render every reasonable service and assistance to
his customer will find that the relationship will be a pleasant one of
mutual confidence with profit to both. The greatest help a sales repre­
sentative can give his customer is accurate, honest information about the
products he is offering.
The F. A. A. and State A. B. C. Board regulations state very specifically
what services a wholesaler is forbidden by law to render to a retail estab­
lishment. There are many such prohibitions but they are all designed
with one broad principle in mind—to prevent offering inducements to
the retailer to use a specific brand to the detriment of competing brands.
The salesman, in offering his brands, should use all the information he
has about their quality and usefulness, but he should not disparage his
competitor or his brands. This is bad salesmanship. It is always wise to
remember that brands which have been selling successfully for genera­
tions have stayed on the market because the public has found them satis­
factory. The salesman who bases his selling talk on the premise that the
public does not know what it is buying is in for a sad awakening.

INVENTORY AND THE ECONOMICS OF TURN-OVER

To operate successfully, a business establishment should have a variety

and quantity of stock sufficient to meet all its normal needs except under
special conditions such as exist in war times. The amounts which must be
kept in stock are governed by the nearness of the source of supply. If it is
in the same city, and an order can be filled within the day, there is no
point in carrying a very large stock. On the other hand, the farther away
the source of supply, the greater must be the reserve stock to protect the
business from losses due to lack of stock.
During war times, when freight, insurance, and costs are bound to rise,
it is good business to increase the stock of items affected by conditions
substantially beyond normal, as such purchasing and loading of the in­
ventory is not a risky speculation.
 PURCHASING 315
A seven to ten time inventory turn-over is considered normal business
practice. That is, if the stock required to handle normal business is $10,-
000, the annual purchases should total 170,000, or a stock turn-over
seven times during the year. A slower turn-over means either that the es­
tablishment is over-stocked or that something should be done to stimu­
late more business.
A careful analysis of sales, and perpetual inventory will soon indicate
which types and brands of merchandise move most freely and which are
dead stock. With the exception of rare, fine-quality, high-priced brands
on which a rapid turn-over is not expected (but which may be com­
pensated for by a larger profit) slow-moving brands or items should be
culled out of the stock.
A profit is obtained on a given brand of merchandise only when it is
sold. Bottles standing on the shelf or lying in a cellar bin cost money.
They represent an investment, and unless the merchandise moves, it is
costing six per cent per annum on the purchase price, plus overhead.
Purchasing, therefore, is closely related to merchandising. Buying must
always be done in proportion to the establishment's ability to sell. Where
savings can be effected by quantity purchases and by cash discounts, it is
elementary to avail oneself of the lower price, but if it takes six months to
a year to sell a lot so purchased the saving should be greater than the cost
of carrying, or there is little advantage in the quantity purchase, and a
portion of working capital has been tied up in "dead" stock.
The proper stock for a store, restaurant, or distributor's cellar or ware­
house depends entirely on the market that it serves. In the East, for ex­
ample, the public prefers Rye and Scotch whiskies, while throughout the
Middle West, South and Southwest the public prefers Bourbon.
It is good merchandising to have as complete and varied an assortment
on hand as is commensurate with good business practice, as this will make
customers feel that they can obtain anything they need. It is impossible,
of course, for either a retail or wholesale outlet to carry every brand. A
fairly complete assortment of types is possible, however, without too great
an investment.

CONSUMER PURCHASING

Quality should always be the first consideration—with the consumer as

well as with the wholesaler and retailer—although its relation to price and
value should not be overlooked.
The most satisfactory system for the consumer who has not had an op­
portunity to taste many of the products available is to find a supplier in
whom he has confidence and ask for his advice. He will usually find that
316 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

it is both sound and helpful. In time each individual discovers, by actual

tasting, which products and brands he prefers.
While, in the long run, the contents of a bottle is more important than
the label, it must not be forgotten that the brand is important. Any brand
which has been marketed successfully for generations—and sometimes for
centuries—has maintained its popularity because its quality is satisfactory.
People do not continue to accept famous brands because of their reputa­
tion and advertising; they continue to buy because of the consistent qual­
ity maintained by these brands. The moment quality is lowered, the pub­
lic turns away.
In purchasing spirits, there is little advantage in stocking more than
necessary requirements, as they do not gain in value or in quality after
they have been bottled. The only exceptions are very rare old brandies,
whiskies, or rums of which only limited supplies are available at any
time, and when there is a possibility of a shortage, as has happened lately
because of the European war.
There is a different story where wines are concerned. Light beverage
wines and Champagnes, being living things, do change, improve, and, in
the case of very fine wines, increase in value with time (when properly
stored and cared for) and therefore they are worth purchasing with a
view to future use.
In general I would recommend allowing light wines several days of rest
after receipt before serving. In other words, do not buy a bottle of wine
this afternoon to serve for tonight's dinner. If the wine has any deposit,
it will be stirred up, giving the wine an unattractive, dull appearance.
When possible, do not buy fine wines from hand to mouth. Some of the
sturdier wines do not need all this care, but it is safer to err on the side
of too much care than to handle wines carelessly.
When preparing to entertain, whether at a cocktail party, reception or
dinner, it is advisable to figure out in advance the quantities of beverages
needed. Every host wishes to make sure that his guests have as much as
they wish. It is difficult to predict accurately the guests' thirst, but in gen­
eral it may be said to approximate two drinks per person if the party lasts
two hours, and three if it lasts three or four hours. If an allowance of an
extra half drink per person is made, there should be no shortage.
The preferences of the guests should govern the class of beverages
served. There must be enough mineral water on hand for highballs, lem­
ons and limes for cocktails, and so forth, to take care of the estimated
needs. Spirits and fortified wines do not spoil, so a few extra bottles may
be purchased as a precaution against a shortage.
To serve as a guide in calculating the number of bottles needed to
 PURCHASING 317
entertain eight, twenty, or one hundred guests, the following chart has
been prepared:

HOW MANY PORTIONS?

Bottle Average No. of

Product Content Portion Portions
Bordeaux wine 24.0 oz. 3 oz. 8
Burgundy wine 24.0 " 3 8
Rhine, Moselle and Alsatian.... 24.0 " 31/2 " 61/2
Chianti 32.0 " 4 " 8
Champagne 26.0 " 33/4 " 7
Sherry, Port and Madeira 24.0 " 2 12
Vermouth 30.5 " 1 " 301/2
Cognac and brandies 25.6 " 1 " 25*
Scotch and Irish whiskies 25.6 " 11/2 " 17
Rye and Bourbon whiskies 32.0 " 11/2 " 21
Gins 32.0 " 11/2 " ** 21
Rums 25.6 " 2 " 121/2
Liqueurs 25.6 " 3/4 " 36
Mixes: water or ginger ale 32.0 " 4 " 8
Beer on draft (in kegs) 15.5 gals. 8 " 250
• Allowance for spillage. ** In a Tom Collins the portion is 2 oz.

In estimating the wine needed for a dinner party, the following should
serve as a guide:
If one wine is served, 2 glasses (8 oz.) per person
If two wines are served, 1 glass (4 oz.) of each per person
If three wines are served, 1 glass (4 oz.) of each per person
Have a reserve of one-half glass per person in case a given wine pleases
and the guests wish more.
When Sherry, Madeira, or Champagne is served as an aperitif before
the meal,11/2glasses per person.

W H A T T H E CELLAR SHOULD CONTAIN

When one is limited by space or inclination to an inexpensive cellar,

it is better to have a small compact assortment of wines and spirits, which
provides a sufficient quantity of a given product, rather than a wide
assortment of single bottles.
The "cellars" suggested on the following pages can only serve as a guide.
Personal taste should govern the selection. However, the only reason for
cellaring these products is to have them readily available for serving, both
318 GROSSMAN S GUIDE
for your own or your guests' enjoyment. Do not buy and store away wines
and spirits just to hide them away. Wines will eventually become senile
and die and spirits in bottles do not improve. The pleasure in these bev­
erages can only be enjoyed through their consumption.

A BEGINNER'S CELLAR
6 bottles California or American 2 bottles Scotch Whisky
red and white table wine, assorted 2 bottles Rum—Puerto Rican
6 bottles, French, German, Italian 2 bottles Gin
or Chilean table wine, red and 1 bottle dry Vermouth
white assorted 1 bottle sweet Vermouth
2 bottles Champagne 2 half bottles liqueurs
1 bottle Sherry—medium dry 1 bottle Aromatic Bitters
2 bottles Whiskey, Rye, Bourbon or
Canadian

AN AMATEURS CELLAR
If one has twice as much to invest, a wider assortment is possible.
Quantities can also be increased. For example, one can include not only
California, but American table wines, and several different imported
wines of each of the wine regions mentioned above. Additions to the list
can include:
Cognac Port
Jamaica or Demerara Rum Sparkling Burgundy
Vodka A wider assortment of liqueurs

A N ADVENTURER S CELLAR

For one who has a real use for the bins and shelves he has put up in
the closet, which is the "cellar", and enjoys a variety to please all tastes,
this assortment should fill the bill, and to quote from New York's R. H.
Macy&Co.'s advertisement: "will open a whole new world of taste adven­
ture to you".

6 bottles California red table wine 2 bottles Port

6 bottles American white table 1 bottle Madeira
wine 3 bottles dry Vermouth
12 bottles Chilean wine—Burgundy 3 bottles sweet Vermouth
and Riesling 6 bottles American whiskies
12 bottles Bordeaux district Claret 3 bottles Canadian whiskey
6 bottles of a château-bottled 6 bottles Scotch whisky
Claret (Latour, Margaux, Mou- 2 bottles Vodka
ton, etc.) 4 bottles Gin
 PURCHASING 319

6 bottles Sauternes 3 bottles Cognac

6 bottles Pommard or another red 3 bottles dry Rum
Burgundy 2 bottles Jamaica Rum
6 bottles Chablis 1 bottle Apple Jack
6 bottles Rhine or Moselle wine 1 bottle Benedictine
6 bottles Vin Rose 1 bottle Cointreau or Triple Sec
6 bottles Champagne 1 bottle Pimm's Cup
6 bottles Sherry—dry and medium 1 bottle Tequila
dry 1 bottle Aromatic Bitters
6 bottles Cherry wine

A GOURMET S CELLAR
The gourmet is desirous not only of enjoying the very finest himself,
but of sharing it with his friends. He can stock his "cellar" with the assort­
ment suggested below, or vary it as his "tasting" experience dictates. In
either case he and his friends should derive much enjoyment in drinking
any of these beverages:
12 bottles California Claret or Zin- 12 bottles Rhine Wine
fandel 12 bottles Chianti or Valpolicella
12 bottles California Riesling 12 bottles non-vintage Champagne
6 bottles California Sauterne 12 bottles Vintage Champagne
6 bottles American Sauterne 6 bottles Cherry wine
12 bottles Chilean Burgundy 6 bottles Amontillado Sherry
12 bottles Chilean Riesling 6 bottles Tawny Port
12 bottles St. Julian or Margaux 3 bottles Boal or Malmsey Madeira
24 bottles château-bottled Clarets, 6 bottles Aperitif wine (Dubon­
assorted as to wines and vintages net, San Rafael or Byrrh)
(Château Latour, Lafite, Mou­ 6 bottles French Vermouth
ton, Cos d'Estournel, Ausone, 6 bottles Italian Vermouth
Cheval Blanc, etc.) 6 bottles Scotch Whisky
12 bottles château-bottled white 12 bottles blended American Whis­
Graves (Olivier or Haut Brion) ky (for mixed drinks)
8 bottles Sauternes 6 bottles Bonded Whiskey
4 bottles Châteaux Yquem, Le 6 bottles Canadian Whiskey
Tour Blanche or Coutet 12 bottles Gin
12 bottles Macon or Beaujolais 6 bottles Vodka
12 bottles Chambertin or Clos de 6 bottles Cognac—3 star quality
Vougeot 3 bottles Cognac—VSOP quality
6 bottles Montrachet or Meursalt 6 bottles Cuban or Puerto Rican
12 bottles Chablis or Pouilly Fuisse Rum
12 bottles Moselle 3 bottles Jamaica or other full-
320 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

flavored Rum treuse, Cointreau or Triple Sec,

3 bottles Apple Jack Crême de Menthe, Kümmel, etc.
3 bottles Akvavit bottle Aromatic bitters, Angos-
2 bottles Kirsch tura or Abbots
6 bottles Pimm's Cup bottle Orange bitters
3 bottles Tequila case Beer
6/8 bottles assorted Liqueurs, such case Ale
as Apricot, Bénédictine, Char- bottles Stout
The foregoing are only the suggestions I offer as a beginning, but the
Gourmet's Cellar can be varied and expanded as much as the gourmet's
taste and pocket book wish to extend it. It can include many of the finer
wines, some in Magnums, both table wines and Champagne, and in-
creased quantities of the less costly wines, as well as a supply of older
spirits. The selection can be modified considerably, to include the 12 year
old Scotch Whisky quality, Armagnac, etc., some of the rare Rhines and
Moselles and some of the other very interesting Italian table wines.
There is one recommendation I wish to make with regard to building
up a private cellar. Please do not purchase wines or spirits merely for the
sake of collecting and storing them away. Wine, spirits and beers are pro-
duced for only one purpose, and that is to be drunk, thereby giving
pleasure, enjoyment and satisfaction to the appreciative consumer of them.
Buy them, buy them generously, so that you may enjoy them generously
with your guests. I make the admonition because on more than one
occasion I have had the sad experience of having to appraise cellars filled
with wines that bore magnificent names and vintages, but which had been
hidden away and perhaps forgotten until, when I examined them, they
were finished and worthless, no longer capable of giving enjoyment and
fulfilling their reason for being.
 31

Merchandising

T H E PRINCIPLES OF SUCCESSFUL promotional selling are fundamental.

When the public clamors for a particular brand it is usually not only
a good product but one that has been intelligently and aggressively mer­
chandised. In our own field the brands most in demand are those that
are most widely advertised and intensively merchandised.
The first important consideration is the salesman. Every one engaged
in the wine and spirit trade, whether producer, distributor, retailer, or
owner of a restaurant, is necessarily a salesman. The whole object of
producing, distributing, or selling these products is to make a profit from
them. No one can sell anything about which he knows nothing. The more
the salesman knows about the product he is selling, the more successfully
he will sell it.
Therefore, it is basic that the members of the sales staff, from the
president down to the newest salesman, should know as much as possible
about the wines, spirits, or beers they are selling.

RESTAURANT MERCHANDISING

Atmosphere, that intangible, inexplicable something, is the secret of

success in some establishments, and its lack is the reason for the failure
of others.
I am convinced that if conditions are favorable, if the food is good, the
price of the beverages is reasonable, and an effort is made to sell them,
the public will buy wine or other beverages when it dines out. It will do
this because in the proper atmosphere wine is enjoyed with well-cooked,
well-presented meals.
How is the restaurant owner going to sell beverages? This is a serious
problem, for obviously it is difficult to get the sales staff to learn about
something in which they are not interested. How can the interest of the
sales staff be aroused so that every member will want to know more about
wines and liquors? The answer is—money.
As an object lesson, take two dinner checks as an exhibit. Check A
represented a dinner for two people, a man and a girl. The check
321
322 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

amounted to $4.00. The tip was 60 cents. Now here is Check B. Another
couple. They had cocktails and a half bottle of wine. The check
amounted to $7.00. The tip was $1.25.
Any experienced waiter understands this language, and I recommend
to the restaurateurs that this exhibit be duplicated in their own restau­
rants. It packs a wallop!
The couple that had wine with their dinner enjoyed it, and will re­
member it as an event to be repeated; the waiter was happier because
he made a larger tip; and the restaurant owner made a greater profit
through the sale of the beverages.
Of course, before waiters can sell wines, they must be familiar with
what they are selling. Here are a few points that they should learn.
1. The first thing to learn is exactly what wines and spirits the res­
taurant has to offer.
2. They must know which of these are red and which white, and which
are dry or sweet.
3. They must know which of the wines are light beverage wines such
as Claret, Sauternes, Burgundy, Rhine and Moselle wines, and so forth;
which are sparkling wines such as Champagnes and Sparkling Burgun­
dies, and which are fortified wines such as Sherry, Port, and Madeira.
4. They must know which wines should be chilled and which should
be served at room temperature.
5. They should know with what dishes to suggest the various wines
they are selling.
6. When they do sell a bottle of wine, they should know the correct
manner of presendng, opening, and serving the wine—described in the
chapter on Beverage Service. In this connection, I would like to point
out that too frequently wine is casually or sloppily or incorrectly served.
While a great deal of absurd ritual has grown up about the serving of
wines and spirits, to which I am opposed, it is certainly necessary that a
hotel, restaurant, or club know the correct procedure in presenting, open­
ing, and serving wine, simply because it is shrewd sales psychology. There
is always a little glamour about ordering wine. Play it up—it flatters the
customer.

When the order for wine is taken, the waiter should bring the bottle
to the table and present it to the host who has ordered. After the host
has said, "Yes, that is the wine I want," it should be opened and served.
Then, by all means, leave the bottle on the table where the rest of the
diners can see it.
Why? Because people are naturally imitative. Smith and Jones who
never bought wine in the restaurant begin to notice first one and then
 MERCHANDISING 323
several bottles appearing on the tables of other diners. It won't be long
before they too decide that they might as well try it.
These are the bare essentials that a good staff should know in order
to sell wines. Any additional information that can be given them will
help. No one can expect a staff to learn this overnight. The best way to
equip them is to have a weekly class, where these things are explained
to them repeatedly until they are thoroughly versed. When waiters are
trained, they in turn will be better able to serve guests.
Now for a few practical selling ideas:
1. A good, well-rounded wine list, one that is suited to the needs of
the establishment's clientele. Avoid repetition in listings. By this I mean
that one brand of Sauternes is enough.
2. Describe each wine as to taste, in two or three words—especially the
white wines, which vary greatly between sweet and dry.
3. An appropriate wine suggestion, printed next to the Plat du Jour,
will sell lots of wine.
4. Certain dishes have an affinity for definite beverages. For example,
one way to pep up Port sales is to offer a combination of cheese and Port
for one price. Beer goes well with dishes that have sauerkraut in combi­
nation. Offer them together.
5 . Arrange a table at the entrance to the dining-room with a few wines
attractively displayed.
6. Menu tip-ons and menu riders will sell wines, cocktails, cordials,
and beer.
7. I am greatly in favor of using measuring cups when making cock­
tails. Then it makes very little difference which bartender prepares the
cocktail. It will always be uniform.
8. Specialize in two or three cocktails made better than others make
them.
9. Feature seasonal drinks. Tie up holidays with beverage merchan­
dising.
From experience I know that the best advertisement for wine is the
wine itself. I have long maintained that if the wine trade could distrib­
ute samples, as the food and cigarette people do, our country would be
a wine-drinking nation almost over night. This is not possible for eco­
nomic and other reasons.
The closest approach to this is the "split," a small, 6 oz. quarter-bottle,
which holds enough for two glasses. The split can be sold very inexpen­
sively and makes it possible for the person who has never tasted a certain
wine to do so without risking too great a sum. It is really a sample size.
I felt so strongly about this that a few years ago, at the suggestion of
Edward Jouffret, Manager of the Roney-Plaza Hotel, Miami Beach, Flor-
324 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Six ounce splits, the ideal sample size package. (Left) Split display basket for restau­
rant or store use, designed by the author, patent applied for. (Photo—Julius Wile
Sons & Co., Inc.) (Right) Combination sampler assortments. This is good merchandis­
ing. (Photo—Liquor Store & Dispenser)

ida, I designed for Julius Wile Sons & Co. a special split display basket
to hold an assortment of seven splits. Many restaurants and hotels are
using these baskets with excellent results. The significant thing is that
wherever the splits are featured, the sale of the large bottles of the same
wines has increased, because the splits perform their "sample" function
perfectly.
Another way to promote wine sales, which has been used successfully,
is the small 6 to 8 oz. decanters, which perform the same function as the
split. In my opinion, the use of the split is better merchandising, because
the actual bottle is brought to the customer and he is able to see the
label and appearance of the bottle, whereas, with the use of the decanter,
he cannot do this.
Splits have been merchandised with equal success in retail (off-premise)
stores and produced repeat sales of regular size bottles.
An important factor in any merchandising policy is maintenance of a
uniform and constant source of supply. The standard quality merchan­
dise should be available to customers at all times. Bargains and close-outs
do not build permanent trade. The customer who is pleased by a wine
or spirit wants the same quality when he comes back a second time. If he
is shifted from one brand or one quality to another, he will lose confi­
dence in the establishment. This is a basic point, applying with equal
force to restaurants and to retail establishments, and it should be stressed
by the distributor's salesman.

STORE MERCHANDISING AND ADVERTISING

To sell you must tell. This may be accomplished by various methods:

1. In personal conversation with, a customer.
 MERCHANDISING 325
2 . By display of the merchandise both in the store and in the windows.
3. By the written word in a letter.
4 . By the written message in a newspaper or magazine advertisement.
5 . By broadcasting the message over the radio.
6. By catalogs and price lists.
The ideal method, of course, is personal discussion with the prospec­
tive customer, so that the salesman may use arguments and counter­
arguments, answer questions, and render service in the most complete
fashion. This method is necessarily limited to the number of people who
enter the establishment because of a specific need for merchandise.
However, when a customer does come into an establishment, half of
the selling problem has been solved because the customer has come to
buy. The other half of the problem is to have the salesman serve his
needs if they are specific, or to offer helpful suggestions if he is not cer­
tain of what he wishes to purchase. In direct personal selling, even if the
customer knows exactly what he wants, the wide-awake merchant can
find out by adroit questioning or conversation how the customer plans
to use the beverage he contemplates buying and base his selling on this
information.
For example, if the merchandise is intended for a party, the merchant
can advise the customer as to the quantities he will require for the num­
ber of guests he expects to entertain. If it is for daily use, he will be able
to tell whether he should buy in half bottle, bottle or gallon sizes, de­
pending on the size of the customer's family.
The customer can be told that white wine, after opening, may be kept
in the refrigerator, if promptly recorked, and will not spoil for a week
or ten days, while red wine, if tightly recorked after opening, will keep
almost as long. Champagne and sparkling wines must be consumed when
they are opened as they cannot be recorked and will lose their efferves­
cence in a few hours. There are special gadgets which may be purchased
whereby the sparkling wine may be drawn off through a miniature spigot
without losing all the gas. These are all right in the sick room where
small quantities from a bottle are to be used several times a day. How­
ever, they are not recommended where the wine is to be kept for several
days after drawing the first glass.
Desirable as personal contact with prospective customers is, the scope
of such personal contact is limited, and therefore the other mediums are
useful and, when properly employed, are profitable. Advertising reaches
a far greater audience than any one could personally, and every adver­
tisement should convey the personality of a store and reflect its character.
What sort of trade does the establishment wish to attract? Are low
prices, or special offerings, or a complete range from low priced to the
 326 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

finest quality products to be featured? Even if all three types of mer­

chandise are stocked, start with one and feature it above the others.
Once store policy is decided, select the medium best-suited to reach
the widest audience: local magazines, club magazines, fraternal publica­
tions, newspapers, local radio stations, or direct mail. First, of course,
determine what audience these vehicles reach and which audience con­
tains the largest proportion of potential customers. Check this against
the cost of the medium chosen, to determine the most profitable field.
An advertising policy is now established and the medium in which it
is to be publicized is decided on. The advertisement must be a projec­
tion of the character and personality of the establishment. All adver­
tising has a cumulative effect, and therefore repetition will, in time,
produce the wanted sales.
It is advisable to find some merchandising device—a slogan, an illus­
tration, a crest, or the store name—which will always associate the adver­
tisement with the store at first glance.
Feature your merchandise in the advertisement or simply the enjoy­
ment which the purchaser will derive from using it. Perhaps the selling
point is a very convenient location, or a fine telephone and delivery serv­
ice, or perhaps the store has specialized in certain types of beverages or
sizes of packages. If so, feature these points.
This is known as "institutional" advertising—that is, selling primarily
the store name, its policies, and its services to the public rather than
employing the "special offering" form of advertisement, where the pri­
mary attraction is price.

DIRECT MAIL

Direct solicitation by means of a convincingly worded letter has many

advantages, although it is one of the more costly methods of advertising.
Its principal advantage is that the list of names to which a letter is ad­
dressed is made up either of customers who have actually effected pur­
chases in the store, or of those believed to be consumers of alcoholic
beverages. The best feature of this audience is its selectivity. Naturally
the productiveness of this form of advertising will only be as good as the
list itself. In view of this fact, and considering the cost of mailing, it
should be immediately apparent that a constant check of the list must
be maintained and dead wood culled from it.
Neighborhood stores in residence sections often find that the family
butler or chauffeur is charged with the duty of purchasing the alcoholic
beverages. As the employees become the actual buyers, it will often be
found that by gaining their confidence they will bring business from
other families whose purchases are made in the same manner.
 MERCHANDISING 327

COSMOPOLITAN TRAVELS OF MACY'S FAMOUS

Steepedina Sherry Sauce

Taster
...If youhavevisionsofKIDNEYSAND MUSHROOMS of
parts,prideoftheOldEnglishcetinghouse, then come
No. 82s The Taster's Watch on toChildsfor lunch today. Forhereyou'llandkidneysen
casseroleasfeweatingplacesintheNew Worldserveit.
the Rhine Wines of France First—plump,tender kidneys,slicedto morsel-sizeand...
with youngbuttonmushrooms..sauteedinbutter till
everylastounce offlavoriscaptured.Thenthesauce....
temptinglyspiced,..richwithagood old Sherry...to
makeeachtenderbitesomethingto dwel on.
Here'struly a lordlydish...andIt'syoursfortheeatin
today... at any of 52hospitableChildsRetaurants...
slong with fresh,tender green beans.. .end warm orange
orpineapplebranmuffinstoo, fresh from ouroventoday.
Allthisforamodest35'oronacompletelunch,60c.

"MODESTY," sais the Taster, "forbids me even so

whisper that Time, the muter Gobelin, has woven my
small figureintothe grind andendlesstapertry of the
legendsoftheRhine. But if todayyou were to stand
in the marketplaceof the quaint old Alsatian vilage of
Childs
sets a good table
Riquewihr andcry;'MesdamesetMessieurs,what
sounds itsweeterto jourearsthan thesongsthe Loreleï
sang? with one accord the populace would reverently
respond: 'ThenameofMacys ' FamousTaster, bien
sur!
"YOUDON'TSAY,"wesaid."And how !"
"HOW" the Taster intently echoed. "Wel, since
you insist . . .visualizeme holding court in Riquewihr,
sur rounded by epicures*,cardonsbleus.gourmets, vint-
ners,gastronomes,andconnoisseursof allsort,amateur
and professional, all watching with baled breathas!
identified and rated by taite alone the French Rhine
winesofthe district.
"AND IMAGINE MY EMBARRASSMENT," the
Taster exclaimed dramaticaly, "whenIsuddenlyfound M. LEHMANN, Inc., is privileged
myselfwith a mouthful of wine thatIcould not identify ! to offer exclusively the contents of
Admit thatIdid not know? Unthinkable! With my
reputation hanging in the balanceISearchedmy palate
until the audience began to murmur. In the back of the
roomsomeonetittered. And a rogue with ajealousleer
shouted: 'WhatMacy'sFamousTasterhesitates?"'
"THENIUNDERSTOODthat I wat the victim of
The Wine Cellars of Inisfada
ESTATE OF THE LATE
a plottodiscreditme. For the man who jeeredwasan
obscure tasterjealousof my fame. And in one of the
glassesIHadto taste, hehadpoured not one wine but
a mixture of two.
Nicholas F. Brady
"'FARCEUR!'hecried. 'You have thetoupetto call
yourself a taster? Then name me that wine!"
"BUTCERTAINLY,monami,"I replied with aplomb.
"In my right check 1 hold adeliciousRiesling,and in
my left Iholda racy Gewurztraminer. Correct? A
roar ofapplauseshookthe building. And while 1 was 4 unique and irreplaceable collection of
being'camed in triumph through the village, the ignoble
tricksterwasbeing dunked in the Rhine. Today my feat
FINE PRE-PROHIBITION SPIRITS
RARE VINTAGE WINES
"BUTNOW,"we protested. "could you talk with both
Hundreds of c"collector's
heeks ful ofwine?"thems," at prices that star at s12 the case, including:
"WEY."saidthe Taster magnificently, "since my
mouth wat full, I talked through mynose.And if you
think I'm talking through my hat,justtastethe superb
"SPRINC FHILL"
rench RhinewinesBOURDON
that Iselectedthat day fo$100.00
r Macys' STEWART PURE RYE WHISKEY . . . . 65.00
Best Celar!"
"BURKE'S"FINEOLDIRISHWHISKEY45.00
HOLLAND GENEVA DIT GIN 33.00
A TREASURE OF FRENCH WHITE BACARDI RUM (CART.BLANCA) . . . . 42.00
RHINE WINES: VEUVECLICQUOT.1911 84.00
MARCEAU RIESLING VINTAGE 1935: dry, crisp CORDON ROUGE,1913 57.50
andgripey,1/4qt POMMERY1t GRENO SEC 39.75
MARCEAUGENTILVINTAGE1934:ry.light, and CHATEAU LALJAC, 1918 (CLAPET) . . . 15.00
Wand, 1/4 .34 GRAVES.PREMIÈRES COTES 18.00
MARCEAUTRAMINERVINTAGE1920:dry.with
a
BEAUNE, 1919 18.00
fragrant bouquet,1/4qt . . 1.17'
MARCEAUGEWURZTRAMINERVINTAGE1934
other Frenchm wines,
eduim dry,Sherries, Ports,
flowery,Soft,1/4qt _ Madeiras,
1.41 etc
Case prives are even lower
MACY*S M. LEHMANN, INC.
Fine Wines and Liquors
459 Seventh Avenue, N. Y. C
Phone LAckawanna 4-6000 Fine Wines & Spirits
374 PARK AVENUE, NEW YORK TELEPHONE: ELoqrado $.5522
Also at: Morristown. N. J, Darien, Conn.

Constant use of the "taster" identifies Macy liquor ads. Sherry enhances the flavor of
food—and ads—for Childs Restaurants. Lehmann's dignified special offering merited
paid space in Fortune magazine.
328 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

NEWSPAPERS

An important consideration in newspaper advertising is deciding on

the right spot for the advertisement. There are society and women's
pages, sport pages (read mainly by men) and general news sections.
Specify on the order in what part of the paper your ad is to appear. The
society page and pages 2, 3, and 4 are generally considered premium
spots, and cost more than the general run of the paper. Some dealers
prefer to specify these preferred positions, paying the extra rate, as a
small advertisement so placed will often be more productive than a
larger one in another spot. Try this by test.
The advertisement should be timed in accordance with the buying
habits of the public. It is a sound idea to place institutional advertising
in the paper on those days when it will have the least competition and
therefore greater visibility—generally at the beginning of the week.

CATALOGS AND PRICE LISTS

The primary object of a catalog or price list is to inform the customer
of the products stocked and the price at which they are sold. Price lists
fall into two classes—a general catalog listing every item in the inven­
tory, and condensed special offerings of specific products or groups of
products.
The general price list or catalog should be designed to have a certain
length of life and, in addition to the prices and the list of products, it
should contain information that is useful to the customer, such as cock­
tail recipes, punch recipes, uses of the wines and spirits, and other gen­
eral information. The more useful this information is to the customer,
the longer he will keep the catalog, the more often he will refer to it
and be reminded of the name of the store and its products.

SPECIAL OFFERINGS
The special offering should state clearly that it is for a limited time
only. Its object is to stimulate quick sales. It should therefore be concise,
direct, exciting, and dramatic.
These points may be accomplished in several ways. If a lower price
than normal is offered, show the regular price and indicate the saving
involved.
If it is a new product describe it briefly.
If it is a seasonal or holiday offering, an illustration or a short para­
graph about the seasonal use of the products may be utilized effectively.
The main point to bear in mind is that to be effective, the special
offering price list must have a compelling appeal to make people buy at
once, to take advantage of a special opportunity.
 MERCHANDISING 329

Cheerful attractive appearance invites patronage. (Left) Aptly named "Cheer Shop",
liquor department of the Hayden Department Store, Omaha, Neb. (Right) Greenwich,
Conn, store. Note wines, all neatly binned, accessible to the customer and inviting
his curiosity. (Photos—American Wine and Liquor Retailer)

RADIO
Federal and State regulations cover what can and cannot be said in
radio advertising. For example, there is a Federal regulation prohibiting
the mentioning and selling of spirits over the air. In most States wine
and beer may be advertised.
There are a number of different methods of using radio time, such as:
one minute spot announcements; five minute spots (such as news broad­
casts); 10 and 15 minute sustaining spots. Many local radio stations also
have what they call "perpetuating" shows, in which the names of differ­
ent advertisers and their offerings are mentioned from time to time.

IMPORTANCE OF WINDOW DISPLAYS

Every window display should be designed to be an "interrupting fac­

tor" to the eye of the passerby. What will accomplish this? Certainly not
a display of standard merchandise with standard prices arranged in rows
or even helter skelter. Arrange a window so that attention is focused on
some one thing. That may be an item of merchandise, or it may be some
related subject, a well-set table, for instance, which indicates how a bev­
erage can be used.
IDEAS

1. A bottle of Rock and Rye, a pair of rubbers, and an umbrella.

2. A brilliant scarlet riding coat, a pair of boots, a riding crop—and a
punch bowl and glasses—bottles of Bourbon whiskey and Jamaica rum,
and the ingredients for several different punches.
3. A casserole, a chicken (artificial), a bottle of Claret, a chafing dish
—pancakes, bottles of brandy and Triple Sec for the sauce.
4. A top hat, a pair of white gloves, and a cane—a bottle of Cham­
pagne and a couple of glasses.
 330 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Note: All of the objects used can be obtained from local merchants,
who will be glad to lend them for display providing a credit card is
placed in the window.
In States where standard merchandise is price-fixed, there is no advan­
tage in a display of bottles .with prices affixed, which are identical with
competitors'; therefore, it is better merchandising to display fewer bot­
tles, but arrange the display attractively, either with a quantity of a given
item, with a picture background, or a seasonal motif with the merchan­
dise of the season featured.

WARNINGl

Were a person to be placed in a window under the direct rays of the

sun, he would get sunburned and possibly sun-struck. Wine, like any
other living thing, is also affected by too much light. Wherever possible,
use dummy bottles for window displays, and if they are unobtainable,
have the awnings down so that the direct rays of the sun do not strike
the beverage wines. They become "blind" or dull looking, and lose their
brilliance. The flavor of the wine is affected in the same manner—the
wine becomes flattish in taste. Sparkling wine may become overheated
and the bottle may burst.
Liqueurs which are artificially colored may change or lose their color
if exposed too long to the sun. The afternoon sun is worse than that of
the morning, because the actinic rays are stronger after midday.
This is partly the reason for colored glass being used in wine bottles.
The dark green, brown, or black glass protects the wine against the light.
However, the original reason for dark colored glass in wine bottles was
to hide the cloudy condition of the wines themselves.

T w o t o t a l l y different m e r c h a n d i s i n g p r i n c i p l e s . (Left) J o h n W a l k e r &: C o . s t o r e o f

San F r a n c i s c o , C a l . N o t e use o f i s l a n d d i s p l a y s h o w i n g l i q u e u r s a n d w i n e . A l s o t h e
b o t t l e s a n d i n f o r m a t i v e l i t e r a t u r e o n t h e c o u n t e r . ( R i g h t ) The self-service l i q u o r s t o r e
o f A n d r e w W i l l i a m s , O a k l a n d , C a l . N o t e n e a t a r r a n g e m e n t a n d accessibility o f s t o c k .
( P h o t o s — A m e r i c a n Wine a n d L i q u o r R e t a i l e r )
 MERCHANDISING 331

(Left) Sherry Wine & Spirits Co. sell a lot of wine. Note how easy and attractive the
purchase of wine is made for the customer. (Right) An interesting display of beer in
cans. (Photos—Liquor Store & Dispenser)

INTERIOR DISPLAYS

Several effective merchandising principles should be considered. One

well-recognized and highly productive principle is the "related sale,"
that is, grouping items in relation to each other. For example, cocktail
ingredients, the wine for a meal, and the cordial or brandy to finish it,
can make an attractive "island display" set in a central spot in the store
to attract attention.
The grouping of a dozen half-bottles of wine of different types encour­
ages a customer to purchase a few bottles in order to find out which wine
he likes best.
The intimate sale display, where merchandise is arranged helter-
skelter in a basket so that the customers will not hesitate to pick up and
examine a bottle, helps them to overcome the hesitancy they feel about
disturbing a neatly arranged stack. It is always good sales psychology to
let the customer hold and examine the bottle. Once he has it in his hand,
his possessive instinct makes him want it.

SHELF DISPLAY

Merchandise with which the customer is not familiar and which has
a slow sale should be placed in the most prominent part of the store-
in the front; while the standard merchandise could be placed in the cen­
ter or rear so as to draw the customer back into the store to see the island
displays as well as the shelf merchandise.

SEASONAL PROMOTIONS

There is a holiday or a seasonal merchandising motif in nearly every

month of the year, and these should be tied up with advertising and
window displays.
The gift-giving holidays should be featured with the logical type of
332 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

merchandise for the season or the holiday. Other holidays indicate week­
end parties and entertaining. Stress these facts.
In the spring, rums and gins should be featured with the lighter wines.
In the summer, feature all beverages which may be used in preparing
cooling drinks; also light white table wines.
In the fall, with approaching cold weather, whiskies, brandies, and
fuller bodied wines should be brought forward.
Throughout the winter, the richer products will be more popular.
In May, begin pushing Champagne for the June weddings and the
summer garden parties.
For the fo'otball season, feature whiskies and brandies.
At Christmas time, the peak selling season in the trade for the entire
year, be sure to bring out the finest quality merchandise and the fancy
packaged liqueurs. This is the best season for these products, because
anyone giving wines and spirits as a gift wants to feel he is making a gift
of something that is not only fine, but that will give pleasure and enjoy­
ment to the recipient.
New Year's is the Champagne season for that is the time when every­
one wants to celebrate.

SALES

Special offerings of slow-moving merchandise help in getting an inven­

tory turn-over.
Keep duplicates of sales slips and at the end of each month or at the
end of six months, find out how many customers bought two bottles of
an item, and how many were pint buyers. From these sales slips can be
determined the buying habits of customers. If it is found that a goodly
portion of them are multiple buyers, try the device which has proven so

Seasonal window displays. (Left) Antoine Dadone ties u p his promotion of Akvavit
with the vogue for skiing, in his Vendôme liquor shop in New York. (Right) T h e
D. F. Flagg C o . o f Boston features rums in a spring window display. (Photos—Liquor
Store & Dispenser)
 MERCHANDISING 533
successful in certain large stores of offering a small discount over the one
bottle price in lots of three bottles. Customers who are constant group
bottle buyers may be interested in buying a case of the same item if they
can save something thereby.
Naturally this cannot apply to price-fixed merchandise, but many
shops carry their own brand of merchandise on which they can give a
discount for bulk orders.
Study the habits of customers. Feature the items which have seasonal
buying appeal.

HOW TO SELL ONESELF TO ONE'S CUSTOMERS

There is only one road to the goal of aflourishingneighborhood busi­

ness, and that is confidence. The soundest way to establish confidence is
by knowledge of the products, courtesy to customers, the quality and
value of the merchandise stocked, and the service given. Added to this
is personality, a great intangible. Some people have this faculty of ap­
proach, the ready smile, the confident air—others do not.
Before customers can be convinced that the merchant's advice is sound,
that he is honest in his suggestions, he must know something about the
products and how they should be used. Some customers want advice,
others feel that they know more about it than the merchant does. Let
them have their own way about it or they will go elsewhere.

VALUE OF SOCIETY PAGE ANNOUNCEMENT

Watch the daily announcements in the newspapers, and keep alert to

the happenings in the lives of your neighborhood—the early bird will
catch the worm every time. In the society page announcements there are
most valuable leads for bulk sales. Not only large events, such as coming-
out parties, engagements, weddings, and births, are cues but organiza­
tion outings, conventions, and so forth.
All of the foregoing discussion of merchandising is as applicable to the
producer's or distributor's salesman as it is to the retail trade.
The service which the salesman, calling on an account, can give to his
customer will have a great deal to do with the volume of business the
account will produce.
In addition to taking orders, the salesman can render many little serv­
ices for his customers, such as helping to make up wine and price lists,
giving the customer new display or advertising ideas, and new or varied
factual information about the products he has sold to the customer. The
salesman who brings a customer ideas which he can use profitably is the
one who will get the bulk of the business.
 32

Storage and Cellar Treatment

T H E CARE OF WINES, spirits, and beers is an important, but a fairly sim­

ple problem. In a commercial establishment, these beverages represent
an investment on which a profit is expected, and they should be treated
both with care and with regard for their perishable qualities. Just as a
restaurant operator takes care to store dairy products, meats, and vege­
tables in a properly refrigerated room, so beverages must be carefully
stored. While this applies more to beers and wines than it does to spirits,
even the latter need to be safeguarded, preferably under lock and key,
for otherwise the profits in them tend to "evaporate" mysteriously.

TEMPERATURE
The cardinal requirement of a cellar or storage space where wines are
to be kept for some time is an even temperature. The ideal is between
0
55 and 6o° F., but five degrees higher or lower is not important if the
temperature is kept constant and violent swings avoided. It is not advis­
able to store wine in a room where the temperature goes above 70 °.
The cellar should be kept absolutely clean to prevent the formation
of mold and to keep it free of odors.
Whether the "cellar" is below ground, or in the closet of an apart­
ment, it should be dry and, if possible, ventilated. A damp cellar is not
bad for storing wines, but it is difficult to keep clean. The cellar should
be away from a heating plant or a hot water unit.
Modern air-conditioning today makes possible ideal cellar conditions
in any part of a building. I know of air-conditioned "cellars" five to
eight stories above the ground where, by automatic temperature and
humidity control, perfect cellar conditions are maintained throughout
the year.
Large hotels and restaurants, selling a considerable amount of wine
daily, find it economical to have special refrigerators in which the white
and sparkling wines for daily use are kept at serving temperature. This
insures giving prompt service to guests. Such refrigerators are also useful
for chilling large numbers of bottles for banquet service.
334
 STORAGE AND CELLAR TREATMENT 335

MANNER OF STORING
Light beverage and sparkling wines should always be stored on their
sides in the bins so that the wine is in contact with the inner surface of
the cork. This keeps the cork expanded, and prevents it from drying out.
If the wine were stored upright and the cork dried out, air could seep
through and spoil it. In the case of Champagne and sparkling wines, a
dried out cork permits the gas to escape, resulting in a "flat" wine.
Fortified wines, with the exception of Vintage Port, are vigorous
enough to have no fear of the air, and may be stored in an upright posi­
tion. Spirits likewise may be stored upright.
White and sparkling wines should be stored in the coolest part of the
cellar in the lower bins or shelves, while red wines may be stored in the
bins above them, the topmost bins for fortified wines and spirits.
The order of arrangement would be determined by your own prac­
tical needs, with items most frequently in demand stored within easiest
reach of the cellarman.
Cased goods should be stored in orderly fashion, stacked off the floor
to permit ventilation and to prevent mold from forming. This can be
accomplished by laying down two parallel 2 x 4 runners below the stacks.

WINE IN CASK
In States where it is legal to handle cask goods, wine casks should
receive careful attention. Upon arrival, they should be examined for
damage in transit, and then placed upon scantlings and secured with
wood calks so that they will not roll. They should be given at least a
month's rest before broaching.
When light beverage wines (14 per cent of alcohol or less) are to be
bottled, the bottling must be carried through until all of the useful
(bright) wine has been bottled, and then bottles should be corked
promptly. This is unnecessary in the case of fortified wines, as contact
with the air will not spoil them.
Always bottle on a bright clear day when the barometric pressure is
high. Wine bottled on a dull, stormy day will have a dull appearance
and will not be as clear as when bottled under proper conditions.
Do not attempt fining and filtering yourself. If, after a month's rest,
the wine has not cleared naturally and you believe it needs filtering,
have an experienced cellarman from the supplier do it for you. This
operation is not as simple as it seems, and it requires costly apparatus.
Filtering should be done only in a winery properly equipped for it. Do
not attempt it in a retail establishment or in a restaurant cellar.
When the cellar is below the bar and draught beer is stored in it, a
separate refrigerated beer room should be maintained for best service.
336 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

BOTTLED WATERS
All the adjuncts to beverage service, such as mineral waters, ginger
ales, and so forth, may be handled in the wine cellar. Here, too, wine
baskets, wine coolers, and even supplies of fruit juices extracted for daily
use may be stored, but the wine cellar should never become the reposi­
tory for broken furniture and odds and ends.
The wine cellar should be separated from the rest of the cellar so that
it can be locked. In large establishments a time lock should be used. It
is very difficult to maintain correct inventory balances if this precaution
is not observed.

PACKAGE STORES
Generally speaking, the same principles of cellar storage apply to
stores as to hotels and restaurants.
In each case the cellar should be so arranged that the patrons of the
establishment may be shown through the cellar. This is good sales pro­
motion as it arouses greater interest in the beverages and the physical
view of bottles is far more enticing than a mere printed list.

HOME CELLAR
The home cellar presents an entirely different problem. But whether
it is a cupboard, a closet or an actual cellar, it can be made efficient and
useful.
For an apartment, select a closet which is not near any heating appa­
ratus. Shelves can be built in of strong, inch-thick boards. Leave plenty
of space above the top shelves on which to stand the fortified wines and
spirits. These bottles average 13 to 14 inches in height when the cork is
half out. Then build the other shelves from 12 to 14 inches apart, mak­
ing them 15 to 18 inches deep, for the wines that are to be stored on
their side.
Where a cellar is to be used in a town or country house, a room away
from the heating plant or hot water unit should be selected. Bins made
of inch planking or of metal should be installed along the walls, 18
inches deep, 3 to 4 feet wide. If the room is large and is to store large
quantities of wine, it is advisable to build additional rows of bins in the
center of the room. If these are made of wood, I recommend criss-cross
bins. If made of metal, the bins should be square. Honeycomb units
made of metal are available, but are impractical because after a bottle
has been stored it is difficult to tell what is in each cubicle without pull­
ing out the bottle.
The cellar should be well-lighted, and contain a table, several chairs,
and a cellar book in which a record is kept of all purchases of wines and
 STORAGE AND CELLAR TREATMENT 337
liquors, together with notes of the menus with which the wines are
served, as well as a list of the guests. In time this will become a record
of some of your most pleasant memories.
Last but not least, keep a strong lock on the cellar door!

Suggested arrangement for closet cellar in an apartment or small house. Note " V "
shaped bins for light and sparkling wines and shelves for fortified wines and spirits.
 33

Beverage Control*

1. WINE STEWARDS AND BEVERAGE MANAGERS

THERE IS AN ADAGE handed down through the ages that reads—"Time
changeth many things." That this is true in the likes and dislikes of the
public has been proven many times, particularly in their choice of bev­
erages. It is equally true in the business itself. A wine steward need no
longer have spent a lifetime in the business, sport a goatee and flowing
mustache, or show a portly corporation covered by a leather apron, with
a set of symbolic cellar keys hung about his neck. Today the wine stew­
ard finds himself emerging as an accredited executive with responsibility
for accounting records and statistical information in his department and
supervision of the personnel, in addition to being thoroughly experi­
enced in his own specialty.
To quote Mr. Murray Rappaport, a member of the firm of Harris,
Kerr, Forster&Company, of New York City, hotel accountants and audi­
tors, in an address delivered to a gathering of Hotel and Accountants
Association: "The position of wine steward will be one of extreme im­
portance and will rank high among the department heads. He must not
only be possessed of technical knowledge, but also should have the requi­
site executive ability. While the set-up of the organization of the bev­
erage department will vary in different hotels, it is my personal opinion
that the responsibility for the administration of this department should
rest with the wine steward. This responsibility should extend over the
wine cellar, the service bars and public bars, up to the point of service.
The wine steward should have charge of employing and discharging
employees in this department, as he will be responsible for their func­
tioning to produce the results and profits expected."
Today even the title itself has been changed and the position is better
known as beverage manager, the old name going to the man who actually
* T h e author is indebted to Gordon VanderBeek, Beverage Manager, Hotel Astor,
New York City, for furnishing the material used in preparing the first part o f this
chapter dealing with Hotel Beverage Control; and to Roger B. Kaufman, C.P.A., for
his assistance in preparing the latter part on Retail Store Control accounting.
338
 BEVERAGE CONTROL 339
has charge of the wine cellar. The function of the beverage manager is
to maintain constant supervision over all divisions of the department
and he usually has an assistant, a wine steward, and a supervisor for the
bartenders to help him.

WINE CELLARS
Wine cellars these days need not be cellars at all, but may be located
many floors above the street level, as long as they are air-conditioned to
maintain the proper temperature for the case storage of wines. The lay­
out of a cellar must, of course, be based on the physical condition of the
building, but there are one or two points regarding its construction that
can be applied generally. First, the cellar must have only one entrance,
and the steward's office should be located at that point. Second, every­
thing pertaining to the cellar or its operation should be confined within
the space allotted to it. Third, nothing is to be kept in the cellar that
belongs to any other department. In other words, the cellar is to be com­
pletely isolated from other departments. Fourth, a generous use of locks
within the cellar is advocated and a time lock on the door is usually
required.

BEVERAGE DEPARTMENT PROCEDURES

Let us now consider the normal activities of the beverage department
of a large hotel and see how the stock is acquired and controlled.
1. Purchasing. When the wine cellar needs an item, whether it be a
new one or a repeat, a requisition must be written for it. Any simple
form is acceptable, as long as each set of two sheets is numbered in rota­
tion. The requisition is made in duplicate, the original going to the bev­
erage manager's office and the cellar retaining the copy.
On reaching the beverage manager's office, the request is transferred
to an order form, which is made out in triplicate. This form should pro­
vide plenty of room for writing in the names of the items. Some wines
have long names and when the vintage and bottler's names are added,
which should always be done, ample space is needed. The form may also
state conditions of the purchase, etc. The original copy of the order is
sent to the purveyor; the duplicate, to which is attached the cellar requi­
sition, goes to the beverage auditor; and the triplicate copy is sent back
to the cellar as an advice against future delivery.
2. Receiving. Upon arrival of the goods, the receiving clerk of the
hotel must make out his regular receiving slip in triplicate. The original
is sent to the beverage controller; the second copy is kept at the receiv­
ing department; and the third copy is delivered to the wine cellar with
the merchandise. The receiving slip need not be in detail but should
 340 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

clearly indicate the number of cases received, a type description (such as

wine, Scotch, etc.), and the purveyor's name.
When the delivery reaches the wine cellar, a detailed delivery slip
must be made, listing the items fully and accurately. At this time, the
copy of the original order is checked and the number of the wine cellar
receipt is written on it. It is then sent to the beverage manager's office,
together with the original of the wine cellar receipt and the triplicate
copy of the receiving department slip. Some purveyors leave their in­
voices on delivery of goods and, if this is done, these should also be sent
along.

STOCKING THE CELLAR

The goods for immediate use are now unpacked, inspected, and
stamped with the bin numbers. If goods are left in the cases, they must
be stored in the proper location for temperature, and it is advisable to
stencil the bin number on the case.
If, on unpacking, any of the contents are found broken, leaking, or
missing, a form should be made out and included with those sent to the
auditor. The same procedure holds true even if the goods are unpacked
at a much later date. The necks of all such breakage must be kept to
substantiate the claim. If there is a breakage on which no claim can be
made, a wholesale cost memo must be written by the cellar and sent to
the controller.
When stamping the bottles, care should be taken to get the bin num­
ber on a clear portion of the label, either front or back, so that the num­
ber is plainly indicated. This is important, particularly for full bottle
sales at banquets, since all bottles carrying the stamped bin number are
proven property of the house and are identified as such without ques­
tion. In instances where corkage is charged, this procedure is of the ut­
most importance, since it will eliminate the possibility of an argument
and a disgruntled guest.

BIN CARDS

The use of bin cards (see illustration) is not only desirable but essen­
tial in the maintenance of a satisfactory running inventory. A card hangs
on the front of each bin in a metal holder and on this card is recorded
the movement of the stock as it occurs daily. The card should provide
columns for opening inventories, withdrawals for each bar, and closing
inventories. If there is more than one bar of the same type, the stock
movement can be recorded in different colored pencils. Experience has
proven that this detail is not loo difficult for the average cellar employee
to grasp and that the results obtained are invaluable. A study of the card
 BEVERAGE CONTROL 341

Q. P. CO. 10380

NAME.

MINIMUM REQUIREMENT BIN N O .

BOT. $ DRINK $ SIZE.

DATE
No. Bot. NUMBER ISSUED Balance
Received Front Bar Rest. Bars Banq. Bars Roof Bars on Hand

Bin card. (Courtesy Hotel Astor, New York)

will show how completely the movement of the beverages is charted. The
cards are printed on both sides and can be reversed.
ISSUE OF STOCK
No matter how large or small the place of business or the volume of
beverages sold, the bar must give some kind of receipt for goods received
from the cellar. An ordinary requisition, similar to one already discussed,
is satisfactory. Telautograph machines are sometimes used. In any case,
no matter what the system used, a copy of the order must be in the hands
of the controller the following day. It is the usual custom for the bar
captain of the night shift to make out the replenishing order at the time
of closing, so that it will be ready the first thing in the morning for the
cellar to work on.
The cellar enters each item on a Cellar Issue Sheet after removing the
items from the bins and entering.on the bin cards, although some hostel-
ries enter prior to filling the order. A Cellar Issue Sheet is used daily for
analyzing withdrawals for each type of wine, spirit, or liquor. (See illus­
tration.) The bin number is written in the first space below the type
name, and in each space below is written the number of bottles ordered
of that particular brand. The following vertical spaces are used for re­
peat orders. The size of the form should be adjusted to the volume of
business and the extent of the cellar stock. Enough horizontal lines
should be provided for every item of each type carried in stock, and
 342 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

enough vertical spaces to cover with a safe margin the probable maxi­
mum business on the best day of the year. The sheets are dated and
should be signed. Attention is directed to the lower right hand corner
marked " X X X RETURNS XXX," in which are entered items returned
to the cellar unused and unopened. For large establishments the use of
two wine cellar issue sheets daily is advocated—one for each shift. One
man (or one man in each shift) should be assigned exclusively to the task
of filling orders.
As in all records, the basic idea is an accurate trace and check on the
article itself, with a secondary value as a form of receipt against an order
for goods delivered. Since the records already described and particularly
the Issue Sheet remain the property of the cellar, it can be checked
against the bin cards or order forms at any time and for any given date.

RETURNED GOODS

The last phase to discuss in the proper operation of cellar detail is

the matter of returning goods to a purveyor. A return voucher form is
used, in sets of three, numbered consecutively. The cellar makes out the
voucher, entering the name of the dealer, the date, and the items being
returned. The original is sent to the dealer with the merchandise; the
duplicate is signed by the truckman making the delivery and is then for­
warded to the beverage controller; and the triplicate is handed to the
controller who holds it pending receipt of credit advice (or check) from
the dealer. Inventory records are adjusted from entries made from the
duplicate copy.

PURCHASE CONTROL

Invoices for purchases reach the accounting department first and are
then sent to the beverage controller where the original cellar requisition,
duplicate copy of the purchase order, and receiving slips from the receiv­
ing department and the cellar are attached to it. The invoices are now
sent to the beverage manager's office and are compared with the original
purchase order for price and quantity. After scrutinizing the invoices,
the beverage manager should O.K. each bill, if correct, and return it to
the accounting department for payment. However, while the purveyors'
bills are in his office, all pertinent details are abstracted from them and
entered on a Purchase Control form which is designed to be used in a vis­
ible binder. These details include the date, quantity, vendor, price, dis­
count, tax, additional charges, order number, net cost per case and per
bottle, and sales price per bottle. This record gives a complete history
of purchases by the beverage department and, while a duplication in
many aspects of the records maintained by the accounting department
 BEVERAGE CONTROL 343
HOTEL, ASTOR DAILY WINE CELLAR ISSUE SHEET
NEW YORK 194
SCOTCH WHISKY RYE WHISKY

GIN RUM BRANDY CORDIALS

CHAMPAGNE SPARKLING HUNGARIAN VERMOUTH&BITTERS

ITALIAN MADEIRA

RHINE MOSELLE BORDEAUX WHITE BURGUNOY

SAUTERNES RED BURGUNDY SHERRY ALSATIAN PORT

MINERAL WATERS. ETC. MALT LIQUORS MISC.

MISC.

SIGNED
344 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

and the beverage controller's office, it has the advantage of centering all
information on one form. By referring to it, quotations by salesmen can
be checked and compared at a moment's notice and data relative to num­
ber of cases purchased previously can be found without delay.

BARS
When a delivery arrives at the bar, it must be carefully checked in by
two barmen by comparing with the bar Order. In those instances where
the bar orders by telautograph or by telephone, a daily bar order sheet
is used by the bar in making up the order for the cellar. Errors or mis­
understandings between the bars and the cellar should be cleared up
without delay and before the details become vague, in order to place
responsibility.
Only one control form is used behind the bars. This is to account for
losses through accidents. In the course of each day drinks will be spilled
either by employees or customers. When this happens at a standing bar,
a regular check must be made for it and the word "Accident" written
across its face and signed by the bar captain. If the accident occurs at a
table or if for any reason the drink is not acceptable and is returned to
the bar, a form is made out by the bar checker and signed by the bar
captain. In both instances the cause for the loss or the return of the drink
should be stated. Since most of these losses can be prevented, the bev­
erage manager's office scrutinizes such records daily, and may initiate
remedial action within the department.

BANQUET BARS
A separate division of the beverage department is the banquet bar, the
importance of which to the hotel is so great that it requires special
mention.
Ordering and stocking such bars will follow the procedure previously
outlined for bars in general, except that banquet bars require a larger
stock both of wine and liquor items because the bulk of the business will
be done in full bottle sales. This fact also necessitates keeping a complete
record of all bottles of liquor sold so that the proper internal financial
adjustment can be made each morning between the beverage controller
and the bar. Since the bar has been debited for all beverages at sale
prices per drink, the bottle sales will show a decrease from this debit
total.
Thus the bar is charged with 16 drinks at 50 cents each, or.. $8.00
And sells a one-fifth bottle at 5.75

Credit adjustment due to the bar of $2.25

 BEYERAGE CONTROL 345

ADVANCE BANQUET LIST

Date Group Function Number of Time Place Remarks
guests
Wed. 5/l/'40 Art Soolety Luncheon 600 1 pm Ballroon
" " " Charity Group Dinner 500 7 pm X raw
Thurs.5/2/'40 Business Club Dinner 800 7 pm R room Bar&barten­
der. 10/2
bbls. beer
" " " " Music Club Buffet supper 100 9 pn 1/2 bbl. beer
Bar 4 barten­
der.
" " " " Bus. Meeting Reception 40 5 pm Bar&barten­
der.
Fri. 5/3/'40 Chrilly Dance Ent. & Danea 2500 8 pn Gr. ball­
room
" " " " Fraternity Ent. 4 Danee 1000 8 p.m. Roof
" " " " Club dinner Dinner 30 7 p.m. Bast 1 gal. Man­
hattan and
Martinis
Sat. 5/4/'40 Engineers Dinner 75 7 pn Bast 1 Manhattan
or Martini
each
" "" " Manufacturers Dinner dance 600 7 p.m, R.rooa 1 bot. Rye
or Scotch;
3 bota. min­
eral water
or g.ale for
each 10.

From the record of bottles sold at each party, data are obtained for the
beverage manager's future use. Here is a splendid chance to procure a
detailed record of these parties and to form a basis of comparison for the
following year. A list of wine sold should also be added to the records.
One of the most convenient ways to keep such data is on 5 x 8 cards. The
name of the person or organization giving the party is essential. The date
is very important for future comparison since it sometimes makes a great
difference on what day of the week a party is held. The type of function
is also important, for if the next party should be a dance instead of a
dinner, the beverage results would be entirely different. The number of
persons attending and the original number guaranteed are useful too.
"Bar Cash" is the a la carte sale of beverages while the "Bar Signed"
denotes the inclusive items which may have been ordered in advance by
the party. On the face of the card in the left-hand column, the number
of bottles sold is entered, followed by the type of beverage, i.e.:

5 4 B Scotch
1 0 B Rye

9 B Champagne, etc.

To know the brands used, as reflected in the number of bottles, refer to

the bar captain's figures for analysis.
The most common item served at banquets is a cocktail for each guest,
346 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE
either in the reception room or when seated at the tables. A choice of
cocktails is invariably offered. In large establishments where there can
be anywhere from five to a dozen parties going on at the same time, this
basic choice must have attention. If we continue a little further with this
idea, and consider the possibility not only of this choice of drinks, but a
Sherry with the soup, a dry white wine with the fish, and Champagne
with the roast or dessert, then we can understand how complicated the
service can become and how necessary it is to give this phase careful
advance attention. The detailed information concerning the beverage
service of each banquet is, of course, collected at the banquet depart­
ment where it originates. It is digested and typed on a list two days prior
to the date of the function. Enough copies are made so that everyone in
the beverage department, and others connected with any of the func­
tions, receives a copy. This includes the wine cellar, each bar, and the
beverage manager's office. Every effort is made to eliminate excuses or
alibis.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE BAR

The working arrangement of a bar is of the utmost importance. This
matter is too often overlooked when the plans are laid for installations,
and nine times out of ten the men who do the work behind the bar are
not consulted.
The accompanying sketch shows an ideal layout, insofar as it affects

Layout for service bar. (Courtesy Gordon M. VanderBeek, Hotel Astor)

 BEVERAGE CONTROL 347
the service for a banquet bar. Note that it follows the same principle as
that of food checking: one entrance and one exit. Some organizations
prefer the use of a turnstile at the entrance. If there is none, certainly
the rule must be strictly enforced that once a waiter reaches the bar there

Layout for working stations behind the front bar. (Courtesy Gordon M. VanderBeek,
Hotel Astor)
348 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

can be no turning around and going out the way he came in. The only
way out is to pass the checker.
If the layout in front of the bar is important, certainly also are the
working stations behind the bar.
The plan illustrated here is a simple one designed to give some gen­
eral pointers. Naturally, the more money there is to be expended, the
more elaborate the bar fittings and accessories can be.
Special attention is called to the shelf running the length of the bar
in back of the working stations. This comes in very handy for additional
bottles which cannot be accommodated in the regular stations.
In the center of the stations there are, of course, the ice containers.
Make sure these are built oblong, with the longer sides running away
from the bartender to facilitate a full scoop of the ice shovel away from
the barman.
The height of a bar is more or less a matter of personal preference,
but service bars should be built higher than standup bars, particularly
when the former are to be in public view. A high bar of, say, 47 inches
will serve two purposes. First, it will convey the thought automatically
to the guest that it is not a standup bar. Second, a bar of this height is
convenient for the waiters.
Back-bars are relatively unimportant except in one respect. Have them
built wide and not much higher than the front bar. The width will in­
sure good cabinet or refrigeration space underneath and enough shelf
space on top.
Do not have a lighting system which consists of electric bulbs under
glass shelves on which bottles are placed. The heat generated by the
lights will be detrimental to the liquid contents. Even double shelves
with an air space between are not entirely satisfactory.
In laying out the construction of a bar, try to keep the working sta­
tions well off the floor. Plumbing repairs will have to be made and if
there is plenty of working space the repairs will be completed in less
time and at much less expense.
If the bar is oval or some other shape whereby the customers standing
on one side can see the working stations on the other, a cover should be
hung in front of the stations to conceal the pipes, etc. Under the same
circumstances, thought must be given to the floor covering.
For service bars out of the public sight there need be no back-bars.
This space will be occupied by large refrigerators, while the bottles which
ordinarily would be on the back bar are placed on overhead shelves
above the counter.
The working space between the service bar and the back wall line
must be at least 10 feet, particularly if the bar services banquets. This
 BEVERAGE CONTROL 349
will provide the extra space needed for stacking cases of wines, liquors,
and waters when they are to be served in quantities exceeding the capacity
of the regular storage space.

2. ACCOUNTING FOR RETAIL STORES

Accounting for stock and sales in a retail liquor store will depend to
a great extent on the size of the store and the statutory requirements of
the State in which it is located. Prescribed forms will, of course, be in
order in State controlled stores. The forms are too numerous to cite here.
It is my intent to outline roughly the internal control any liquor store
needs to assure intelligent operation, without stressing any particular type
of record keeping.
The Requisition Form is used only in stores large enough to have
several departments, or where branch stores are operated and centralized
control is exercised.
Individual practices may vary, but in general the previously described
routine for requisitioning, purchasing, receiving, stocking, and recording
of breakage of merchandise, are as applicable to a retail store as to a
hotel.

UNIT CONTROL TICKET

In a large number of retail stores it is the general custom to have a
Unit Control Ticket which is pasted on the bottle before it is placed in
stock. The sale price is entered from the duplicate purchase order and
the ticket states the type of merchandise, size of the bottle, the bin, and
purchase order number for identification. On sale of the bottle, half the
ticket is torn off and either attached to the sales slip or collected for
further classification.

PERPETUAL INVENTORY
It is advisable for the retail store to maintain Perpetual Inventory
records which provide columns for entering dates, purchase order num­
bers, and sales ticket numbers; an "In Column" for the units purchased;
an "Out Column" for units sold; and a column for units in stock at the
close of each day's business. At the bottom of the sheet, should be space
for the unit (pints, quarts, fifths, etc.) cost price, if the proprietor wishes
to enter it; selling price per unit and per case; and the maximum and
minimum stock to be carried. This latter, of course, will not be constant
but will probably vary according to the time of the year. The name of the
item itself is written under "Name or description." An inventory sheet
should be made out for each individual brand and size, i.e.—if you have
 350 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

quarts, fifths, pints and half-pints of a Pennsylvania Rye whiskey, have an

inventory sheet for each size.
The manner of entering in the Perpetual Inventory record is as follows:
1. Enter in the "In Column" merchandise received as shown by the
vendor's invoice and the receiving department ticket. Also enter sales
returns from the duplicate tickets.
2. Enter in the "Out Column" total unit daily sales as arrived at by
classifying the duplicate sales tickets and/or the Unit Control Tickets;
also merchandise returned to vendors as shown on the duplicate return
ticket; sales prices should be carefully compared with schedules on inven­
tory sheets, as these provide an opportunity to audit daily sales. Break­
ages should be entered individually and so labeled.
3. Stock on hand, as reflected in the perpetual inventory at the end of
any given day's business, is arrived at by adding to the previous day's
inventory the merchandise put into stock and deducting the sales, returns
to vendors, and breakages.
Physical Inventory of the merchandise should be taken in sections daily
and compared with the perpetual inventory for correctness of quantity.

RETURNED GOODS
Merchandise to be returned to vendors should be taken out of stock,
and the unit tickets removed and attached to the returned goods memo­
randum, which is made out in triplicate. The duplicate copy of the latter
is to be sent to the accounting department. The merchandise with the
original and triplicate copy of the return ticket should be sent to the
shipping department where it is either delivered by the store itself or
picked up by the vendor, at which time a receipt is obtained and sent
to the accounting department. On the return slip should be indicated the
originating department, the date, the vendor, the quantity and descrip­
tion of the merchandise, and the reason for the return. Delays in the
actual return of the merchandise should be investigated.
The manager or owner of the store is held responsible for all merchan­
dise returned by customers. The regular "Returned Goods" slip may be
used for this purpose and on it should be entered the goods returned, the
reason for the return, and the amount of refund involved. The merchan­
dise should then be entered back into stock.

SALES

In States permitting sales on credit, the same procedure is used for

maintaining accounts receivable as is used generally, with a separate
ledger account being maintained for each customer.
At the end of each day's business, it is desirable to have an analysis of
 BEVERAGE CONTROL 351

the sales made, to show the types of merchandise sold. These quantities
must agree with the Unit Control Tickets and the Perpetual Inventory
posting.

VENDOR'S INVOICES
These should be compared with the receiving advices from the receiv­
ing department for quantities and condition and then attached to the
invoices themselves. After approval by the person making the purchase
for price, quantity, discount if any, and type of merchandise, the invoices
are approved for payment and entered in the regular purchase register.

MERCHANDISE RECEIVED FOR FUTURE DELIVERY

It is advisable to use a tag on which the sales ticket number and the
name of the customer are entered. At the bottom should be printed "Do
not deliver until payment received." In case payment has not been made,
the entire tags should be used. If merchandise has been paid for, then
the "Do not deliver" half is cut off. At the time the ticket is made out,
the date should be stamped on it and a careful check should be made
daily to be sure merchandise is not being held too long without reason.

IDENTIFICATION MARK FOR NECK OF BOTTLE

A three by five inch card with a one and a half inch hole near one end
is a very handy gadget for identifying a bottle which, because of activity
in the store, cannot be handled at the time it is received. These cards are
blank so that the necessary information can be written on them, after
which they are just slipped over the neck of the bottle to await attention
later.

HOLD FOR Ref. No.

DO NOT DELIVER
UNTIL PAYMENT RECEIVED

(Left) Simple blank card which slips over neck of bottle for shipping instructions or
other notation. (Right) Hold card for merchandise to be delivered at a future date.
(Courtesy Sidney Haas, M. Lehmann, Inc., New York)
 34

Regulatory Bodies and Laws

A GREAT MANY VOLUMES could be written on the regulation of the alco­

holic beverage trade in the United States and all over the world. For the
purposes of this work it is essential only to discuss the broader aspects,
aims, and purposes of the laws and the regulatory bodies charged with
their enforcement—without becoming involved in the many conflicting
regulations and systems used in the several States.
The first efforts at liquor regulation in this country date from 1791,
when the newly formed Federal Government levied a tax on the whiskey
distilled in the Thirteen States. As pointed out in the chapter on whis­
key, this "interference" with the personal liberty of the Pennsylvania dis­
tillers was the cause of the "Whiskey Rebellion." From 1791 to the pres­
ent day, many advances have been made, so that today the industry is
more carefully regulated, supervised, and taxed than any other.
There are two broad phases of control: the first protecting the tax
revenue which the government, both Federal and State, derives from
alcoholic beverages; the second protecting the public from adulterated or
misbranded goods. Secondary regulations concern trade practices.

FEDERAL CONTROL

The liquor trade must comply with all the laws which govern the opera­
tions of general business. In addition, there are a great many other special
laws which apply only to the alcoholic beverage business. This control
is exercised under three broad principles:
1. Revenue. All these laws are designed to protect the tax money to
which the Federal Government is entitled. This supervision is main­
tained by the Alcohol Tax Unit of the Treasury Department.
2. Public Protection. These regulations are to prevent adulteration
and misbranding of alcoholic beverages. This is partly the function of
the Food and Drug Administration of the United States Department of
Agriculture, and partly the function of the Federal Alcohol Administra­
tion through its control of approved labels which may be used by a mem­
ber of the industry.
352
 REGULATORY BODIES AND LAWS 353
3. Trade Practices. The control here is exercised by the Federal Alco­
hol Administration and the Federal Trade Commission to insure fair
trade practices in interstate commerce among competitors and among the
several branches of the industry.
Through its close cooperation with the customs branch of the Treasury
Department, the Federal Alcohol Administration, which is also a bureau
of the Treasury Department, exercises a close control over the alcoholic
beverages which may be imported into the country.
This control is effected by the Federal Alcohol Administration
(F. A. A.) primarily through the use of its certificate of label approvals.
No wine or spirit will be released by the customs unless the importer can
furnish an F. A. A. certificate of label approval, which must conform, to
the last period and comma, with the actual labels on the bottles. The
F. A. A. will not issue a label approval for a spirit bearing an age state­
ment unless the importer can furnish a certificate of age from the proper
authorities in the country of origin which guarantees the stated age of
the spirit.
FEDERAL ALCOHOL ADMINISTRATION *
This is the most important bureau in regard to Federal control and
regulation of the several producing and distributing branches of the
industry.
The control takes several forms: licensing, label approvals, approvals
of forms of advertising, and supervision of certain trade practices.
The F. A. A. issues licenses to producers operating in interstate com­
merce and to importers. Infringement or nonobservance of its regula­
tions subjects the violator to suspension or loss of license.
All labels used on alcoholic beverages must conform to the F. A. A.
labeling regulations and must have its approval before they may be used.
These regulations are designed primarily to protect the public from mis-
branded goods. They include certain mandatory information which must
appear on the several types of beverages, such as class and type, liquid
content, alcoholic content (with certain exceptions such as beer), name
and address of the producers or bottlers, and so forth.
Advertisements of any alcoholic beverages must contain the mandatory
label information, plus the name of the responsible advertiser, and in
addition cannot make any false or exaggerated claim, cannot claim any
medicinal or therapeutic value for the advertised beverage, and finally,
though the regulations do not say so, the F. A. A. frowns on the use of
illustrations of women in advertisements of alcoholic beverages.
* As of July 1, 1940, the Federal Alcohol Administration has been abolished and the
enforcement of the basic law and the functions of the former F.A.A. are now being
carried out by the Alcohol T a x Unit of the U. S. Bureau of Internal Revenue.
 354 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

The F. A. A. further exercises a protective control over the several

branches of the industry by stating in its regulations just what services a
producer, wholesaler, or importer may or may not render a retailer. The
objective of this phase of control is to prevent the use of services or gifts
which may serve as an inducement to the retailer to promote the sale of
the inducer's brands to the detriment of his competitors.

STATE CONTROL
In addition to the Federal Government's control of the industry, the
individual States exercise a secondary control. The control of the sale of
alcoholic beverages in the States falls into three types:
1. Open License States, where private business makes both on-premise
and off-premise sales of alcoholic beverages to all types of consumers.
(The operations vary in these States because of different taxes imposed
on wines, spirits, and beers; and because of different license fees imposed
on wholesalers and retailers. Furthermore, each State and, as a rule, each
municipality, may have different hours for opening and closing, and dif­
ferent provisions with respect to the number of on-and-off-sale retail
premises which will be permitted.
2. Monopoly States, which control the sale of all alcoholic beverages
distributed in their territories.
3. Monopoly States, which control the sale of distilled spirits and cer­
tain kinds of wines. The effect on wines where the State control is based
on the percentage of alcohol, is rather obvious.
In the Open License States, trade is conducted as in other competitive
businesses. In the Monopoly States, however, whether those which con­
trol the sale of all alcoholic beverages or those which control only a part
of the trade and permit the open sale of other beverages, it must be borne
in mind that the States themselves are in the liquor business and their
function, public statements to the contrary, is to make as much money as
possible. As a result, like any other good businessman, these States stock
only those brands which they believe will have the most ready sale.
It might be expected that, due to the regulatory function which the
several Federal and State bodies exercise, the trade in general would re­
gard these officers as policemen and live in constant fear of them. As a
matter of fact, not only the F. A. A. Administrator, but every State Liquor
Control Chairman is a public servant, placed in his position to serve the
public and the trade, and to assist the trade in performing its services
to the public fairly and without favoritism. I can say from personal ex­
perience that when one asks any of these functionaries for assistance, he
is generally anxious to be of service.
 35

A Glimpse Into the Future

T H E LIQUOR TRADE, like everything that is alive, is subject to growth and

change. No man can foretell with any degree of accuracy what the future
holds for it. But in the light of the past, and in view of certain new de­
velopments which we can already discern in the offing, we may at least
speculate regarding what some of the changes may be. It is not in the
light of prophecy, therefore, that these comments are set down; nor with
the assurance that all, or any, of these conditions will exist one, or ten,
or thirty years hence. But from what we know of changes in the past, it
seems likely that the changes of the future may at least be dimly glimpsed.
In practically every field of human endeavor science has come to play
a more vital part, and it is logical to assume that its role in the alcoholic
beverage field will be of increasing importance in the future. Even at the
present time the aid of science in the production of alcoholic beverages
is of immeasurable value. Through the application of new scientific dis­
coveries we are able to produce today better, sounder, and more uniform
beverages than was the case when haphazard, hit or miss methods were
the general practice.
Although man knew for thousands of years that grape juice exposed to
the air would become wine, he had to wait until the middle of the last
century for Louis Pasteur, the great French scientist, to explain the phe­
nomenon. Other scientists who preceded Pasteur had discovered the fact
that saccharomycetes (sugar fungus), the name given to the yeasts of
sugar fermentation by Meyer about 1839, were the cause of fermentation.
It was not until 1857 that Pasteur proved decisively that fermentation
was a physiological process.
We do not know how long we may have to wait for a parallel dis­
covery; scientists, however, continue their unending search for truth, and
with constantly accumulating data they may turn up a new idea just as
revolutionary as Pasteur's explanation of the principle of vinous fer­
mentation.
The changing picture in the brewing industry is an indication of the
evolution which we may expect the future to show in other fields. In
355
356 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

the United States little progress was made in the brewing industry until
the German revolution in 1848 spurred the immigration of Germans to the
United States. Congress, up to that time, had been offering bounties to
any firm that would export a certain quantity of beer. But the Germans
brought brewmasters with them and beer industries were established in
St. Louis and Milwaukee before the Civil War.
Today beer is not made as it was a hundred years ago. Automatic re­
frigeration has changed the beer picture.
Twenty years ago the thought of beer in cans was a pipe dream and
even today, after years of successful use of cans to package beer, there are
those who refuse to accept the idea because it is a radical departure from
ancient custom. Cans have made possible a far wider and safer distribu­
tion of beer. As pointed out in the chapter on beers and ales, the extreme
delicacy of the product and its susceptibility to light make the use of the
can a logical and safe package. I have not heard of "skunky" or light-
struck beer in cans.
Experiments have been made of packaging wine in cans, but without
much success. Here we have a different problem because of the fact that
wine must continue its development after it is placed in the package and
a small amount of air is necessary for its improvement. In a hermetically
sealed can, this is not possible.
There is always the possibility that a plastic material may be developed
for this purpose. It is conceivable that in time we may have transparent
—even light-proof—plastic bottles, perhaps square or oblong in shape, with
flat tops, which will reduce breakage losses, provide the visibility of glass,
and save millions of dollars in shipping and storage space.
Plastic closures have practically replaced corks for all types of alcoholic
beverage bottles here in America. Whether Europe will follow this lead
someday is difficult to foretell.
Some advances have been made in whiskey production processes, no­
tably the continuous cookers developed during the war.
Perhaps new devices will be designed to make the distilling process
more rapid, more economical. The public taste appears to continue to be
for light-bodied whiskies. Lightness in whiskey may be achieved in two
ways: ( 1 ) to distill out most of the congenerics, i.e., at a higher proof
than is the custom today; (2) by blending our present style of American
whiskey, which is naturally full-bodied, with 7 5 to 8 0 percent neutral
spirits. The best proof of this is to be found in the whiskey consumption
figures which show that over 6 0 percent of all whiskey consumed in the
United States is spirit blends.
The present-day methods of scientifically controlled temperature and
humidity (air conditioning) in whiskey warehouses do age our whiskies
 A GLIMPSE INTO THE FUTURE 357
more rapidly and certainly more uniformly. Prior to prohibition whiskies
were supposed to mature during the warm summer months only. In reality
if in pre-prohibition days whiskey was considered fully matured at four
years, today it can be and is ready for consumption in something over
two years when aged in an air-conditioned warehouse. However, our laws
and regulations have not kept pace with the advances of science. In time
it is to be supposed that they will catch up too.
The belief that no change is possible is contrary to experience, for we
know that in every phase of life and industry changes are continually
being made. They represent progress. Intelligent business men adopt them
because it is profitable to do so.
During the Colonial era and the early years of our national existence,
Madeira was the fashionable wine par excellence. In fact, the wine lists
of 50 and 60 years ago often listed as many Madeiras as all the rest of the
wines put together. Yet today these fine wines are not the popular drink
on our market; they have been replaced by Sherry, which at the present
time is the outstanding favorite. What tomorrow's favorite may be is
hard to predict. If the California Wine Advisory Board's advertising
campaign is continued along its present line—stressing the use of light
beverage or dry wines—I would not be surprised to see light red and white
dry wines capture our fancy. It is too early to know how successful Cali­
fornia will be in this effort, but I am firmly convinced it is on the right
track.
Under modern conditions we are drifting farther away from the days
when most people did a large amount of physical work during a long day
of 10 to 12 hours, and ate and drank quantities far in excess of what is
necessary under modern conditions. The general change in the character
and nature of our lives is reflected in the obvious tendency towards lighter
spirits of all types and kinds. The greatest change in the use of our leisure
time has been brought about by the television set which has made us a
"home-loving" people and has switched beverage consumption from the
public drinking places to the home.
One of the interesting trends in drinking habits is the continued pop­
ularity of rum drinks. In the olden days some heavy-bodied rum was used
for toddies and punches, but since Repeal it is being used widely for
cocktails, punches and collins. Curiously enough its popularity and sales
are at the expense of gin, although this does not mean that it will replace
gin in our scheme of things. I would say that if the public continues its
demand for rums of the Puerto Rican and Cuban types, rums made in
Jamaica will probably decline in sale because their flavor and pungency
are too strong for the average consumer.
The popularity of rum drinks is best exemplified by the rage for the
358 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Daiquiri and the variations of this drink, the Planter's Punch, the Swizzle,
Rum Collins and the Zombie. This last, the result of clever promotion,
caught the public fancy and while the Los Angeles "Don, the Beach­
comber" was the originator of this recipe, almost every other bar in the
country made some sort of "Zombie".
The mounting sales of vodka is a development that is in line with the
appeal for very dry drinks. Blending easily with other products, it is being
used more and more.
What the future holds in regard to new developments in citrus and
other fruit or berry wines is uncertain. Certainly the possibilities have not
been exhausted. We may expect to have new wines of blends of fruits or
berries or both.
Prior to 1919 Scotch whisky sales in the United States were around
500,000 gallons, or 200,000 cases. These were consumed for the most part
in large metropolitan centers by sophisticates. Due to prohibition and the
public belief that a bottle stained with sea water was the real McCoy,
just arrived and safer to drink than the gin and "alki" of the period,
Scotch whisky became popular. Today consumption is well over 4 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0
cases, or over 11 million gallons each year. This is still not a very large
percentage of the 177,356,000 gallons of spirits consumed in the country
annually, but it indicates an important trend in public taste.
What will the cocktail of tomorrow be? It will be a simple recipe and,
judging by the trend in popularity of rum drinks, vodka and light-bodied
whiskies, it will be a rather dry cocktail. Or, unlikely as it seems, cocktails
may not continue to appeal to the public taste.
Who can tell?
 36

Summary

W H A T HAS T H E WINE and spirit trade learned in the years since Repeal of
Prohibition? It has established the fact that the American public drinks
its alcoholic beverages in moderation. Consumption of spirits has re­
mained fairly steady throughout the years at about one gallon per capita,
while that of wine and beer has increased progressively to nearly one
gallon and fifteen gallons respectively. This does not mean that indi­
viduals are drinking more, but rather that a greater number of people
are enjoying the pleasant and relaxation that wines, spirits and beers offer.
Also the incidence of alcoholism has decreased, since Repeal, in spite of
the stresses and strains and uncertainties of the depression and World
War II years.
I am convinced that our consumption of spirits will remain fairly con­
stant, beer will not decrease, and I am ever hopeful that wine consump­
tion will increase steadily until we become one of the wine-drinking
countries of the world.
A natural result of Repeal is an increased interest in the art of good
living. A dinner accompanied by ice water is a cold and not too interest­
ing or inviting prospect. But a dinner complemented with wine gives the
diner greater enjoyment and a feeling that everything is well with the
world. The food is more appetizing. Both the diner and the restaurant
(or host if it is a home dinner) will be pleased and everyone benefits.
There is little likelihood of prohibition returning to the United States
in the next generation. Too many people still remember the kind of law
observance we had until 1933. On the other hand the trade itself, as a
matter of protection, must advocate temperance. Temperance education
is becoming a function of our public school systems and it is possible that
in the future we may see some form of cooperative action between the
liquor trade and the educational boards to teach children the real mean­
ing of moderation, and the value as well as the dangers of alcoholic bev­
erages of all types.
359
360 GROSSMAN'S GUIDE

Up to now the trade has not made any attempt to place before the
medical trade the value of wines in the treatment of nutritional ail­
ments. I believe that this could be done quite successfully, and I hope
that in time many of our doctors will prescribe certain types of wines to
be used in such cases.
The more accurate information people have about alcoholic beverages
the better off they are. Much educational work has been done but much
still remains to be done. The future should usher in an era of freedom,
but not one of unlimited license and abuse.
Of one thing I am convinced. The American public demands the best!
It is the best-informed buying public in the world. The person who at­
tempts to fool the public with poor quality or shoddy imitations is fool­
ing only himself. Any brand can be sold provided it has the quality
claimed for it. No company can stay in the wine and spirit trade unless
people are convinced that the firm's products are good.
The Federal and State regulations are designed not only to protect
the public, but honest producers, dealers and dispensers as well.
The increasing interest of the general public in the subject is evidenced
by the space devoted to writings on alcoholic beverages in the leading
magazines of the country, and the space—more important still—devoted
both to the service and the use of beverages appearing on the woman's
page of our important dailies. Newspaper editors have a keen sense of
their readers' needs, and feature the subject because of public demand
for information.
When one walks into an automobile show room to buy a car, one ex­
pects the salesman to be able to answer questions about the car's per­
formance, its gas and oil consumption, and other details. Furthermore,
one expects that salesman to know comparative values in other cars.
When the tables are reversed, and the automobile salesman wants to order
a wine or a spirit, he is not unreasonable in expecting an answer to his
questions about taste, class, and use of the product he is buying.
The more the wine and spirit merchant learns about the products he
is trading in, the prouder he will be to find himself engaged in a profes­
sion whose honorable and ancient traditions have been evolved through
the centuries.
My aim has been to compress into this book all available information
on alcoholic beverages for producer, seller, and consumer.
The crowning knowledge about the beverages which I have described
can come only at first hand, by actual tasting.
I lift my glass to wish you profit in the reading, pleasure in the tasting
—and your very good health!
 Appendix A

Quick Guide to Wines and Spirits

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste

Serv. Serve
Temp. With
Abbott's Aged Bitters Baltimore, Md. Aromatic Dark Bitter 0
Bitters ,_
Advocaat Ahd'-voh-kaht Holland Prepared Yellow Sweet *or*** A.D.
Akvavit Ahf-vahveet Denmark Spirit White Caraway****B.D.&
A.D.
Ale Various Malt Pale to Bittersweet *** All
Beverage Dark
Alella Ah-lehl'-yah Spain Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Aloxe-Corton Ah'-lowx-Core'-tong Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry *ALLF.
Amer Picon Ah-mere'-Pea'-kon Bordeaux, Fr. Liqueur Dark Bitter *** B.D..
Amontillado Ah-mon-tee-yah'-doh Jeres, Spain Sherry Pale Dry **
Amoroso Ah-mor-o'-so Jeres, Spain Sherry Gold Med. Dry ** All
Amoureuses, Lee Lays Ah-mur-uhs' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Angelica Anne-jel'-ly-kah California Dessert Golden Sweet * All
Angostura Bitters On-goes-W-rah Trinidad Aromatic Dark Bitter
Bitters
Anisette Ah-knee-set' Various Liqueur White Aniseed * A.D.
Anjou On'-jcw Anjou.Fr. Table Wine White Med. Sweet *** All F.
Anninger Perle Ah-nin-ger PearMuh Austria Table Wine White Dry ****
Applejack U.S.A. Applebrandy Brown Dry-apple All
Armagnac Ahr'-ma-niak Gers, Fr. Brandy Brown Dry * All
Arvelets, Les Lays-Are-veh-lay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Assmannshausen AhV-mahns-hoi-sen Rhine, Germ. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
AstiSpumante Ahs'-tea Spoo-mahn'- Piedmont.Italy Sparkling White Med.Sweet *** All F.
teh Wine
Badacsonyi Auvergnac- Bahd'-ah-chony Hungary Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Gris Oh'-ver-niak Gree*
Badacsonyi Ruling Bahd'-ah-chony Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Rees'-ling
Badacsonyi Szurke-Barat Bahd'-ah-chony Hungary Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Soor'-key Bah'-raht
Barbaresco Barbah-rei'-coe Piedmont, It. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Barbera Bar-beh'-rah Piedmont.lt. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Barolo Bah-row'-low Piedmont, It. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Barsac Bar'-sock Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Basses-Vergelesses, Les Lay-Bah-Verr'-je-less Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Bâtard-Montrachet, Le Luh Bah'-tar Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry — All F.
Moan'-rah-shay
BataviaArak Bah-tah'-vee-ah Java, D.E.I. Rum Very Dry, CP.& H.
Ah'-rack Pale Aromatic
Beaujolais Bo'-joe-lay Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Beaune Bone Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Beer, Lager Lah'-gerr Beer Various Malt Pale Dry *** All
Beverage
Bénédictine Ben-eh-dick-teen' Fecamp, Fr. Liqueur Golden Spicy, sweet * A.D.
Bernkastler Doktor Burn'-kahst-ler Moselle,Germ. Table Wine White Dry *** All. F
Dok'-tore
Binger Scharlachberg Bing'-er Shahrl'-ach- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry *** A l l . F.
burg
Blackberry Liqueur Various Liqueur Dark Sweet, fruity *
Red
Boal Boo'-whal Madeira Dessert Wine Golden Sweet *
Bonnes Mares, Lea Lay Bon-Mahr' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Bordeaux Blano Bor'-dough Blahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Sweet****AllF.
Bordeaux Rouge Bor'-dough Roossh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.

SYMBOLS: Service Temperature: (*) Room Temperature—(**) Slightly Chilled—(***)Cold-(****)Very Cold. Serve With:
(A.C.) After Coffee—(A.D.) After Dinner—(All) All times, before, during or after dinner—(All F.) All food— (Apari.)
Aperitif—(B.D.) Before Dinner—(C) Cocktails-(Dsrt) Dessert—(H) Highballs—(P) Punches—(S) Straight—(T) Toddies.
361
 362 APPENDIX

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Tarte Serv. Serve

Temp. With

Bourbon Whiskey Kentucky, Whiskey Brown Dry S., C.H. &P'

U. S.S.
Bourgogne Blanc Boor-goi'-een Blahn Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Bourgogne Rouge Boor-goi'-een Roozsh Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Brauneberger Juffer Brown'-eh-burger- Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
U'-fer
Bressandes, Les Lay Bres-ahnd' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Bucellas Boo-sell-ahs Portugal Table Wine White Med. Sweet *** All F.
Caillerets, Les Lay Kail'-er-et Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * AllF.
Cailles, Les Lay Kah'-eel Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Calvados Kahl'-vah-doughe Normandy, Fr. Apple Brown Dry, fruity * A.D.&C
Brandy
Capri Kah'-pree Capri, Italy Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Kuh-taw'-bah N. Y.&Ohio Sparkling Pale, Med. Sweet **** All F.
Catawba, Sparkling Wine Golden
Shah'-blee Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry * All F.
Chablis Luh Shahm'-ber-tang Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Chambertin, Le Shahm'-bowl Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Chambolle Musigny Moo'-see-knee
Champagne Shahm-pain' Champagne, Fr Sparkling White Dry to Sweet *** All
Chapelle, La Lah Shah-pell' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Chapitre, Le Luh Shah-pete'-er Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Charmes-Chambertin Shahrm Shahm'-ber- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
tang
Chartreuse Shahr-trews'-eh Spain Liqueur Yellow Spicy, sweet * A.D.
& Green
Chassagne-Montrachet Shah'-sign Moan'-rah- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine
shay White Dry **** All F.
Château d'Arche Sbot'-oh Darsh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Ausone Oh'-sohn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Batailley Bah'-tah-ye Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Beauséjour Bo-seh-zure' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Belair Bell'-air Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Belgrave Bell-grahv Bordeaux, Fr. Table-Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Beychevelle Baysh'-eh-vell Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Boyd-Cantenac Boyd-Cahn'-teh-nahk Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Branaire-Duluc- Brahn'-air-Do-look'- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Ducru Do-crew'
" Brane-Cantenac Brahn-Kahn'-teh-nahk Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Broustet Brews'-tay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Caillou Kah'-you Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Calon-Segur Kah'-long Say'-gure Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Camensac Kah'-men-sahk Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Canon Kah'-nong Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Can temerle Kahn'-teh-mehrl Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Cantenac-Brown Kahn'-teh-nahk-Brown Bordeaux Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" de Cantenac- Duh Kahn'-teh-nahk Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Prieuré Pree-oo-ray'
" Carbonnieux Car-bon-you' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
" Certan Ser'-tahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Cheval Blanc Shev'-ahl Blahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
'* Clerc-Milon- Klerr Mee'-Iong- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Mondon Mohn'-dong
" Climens Klee'-mahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Clos Haut- Klo-oh-Pay'-rah-gay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Peyraguey
" Conseillante Kohn'-say-ahnt Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Cos d'Estournel Ko Des'-toor-nell Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Cos-Labory Ko Lah'-bory Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Coutet Koo'-tay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet ** All F.
" Dauzac Dough'-zack Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Desmirail Dehs'-me-rah-eel Bordeaux, Fr, Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Doisy-Daëne Dwahsee-Dah'-ain Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Doisy-Védrines Dwahsee-Veh'-dreen Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Ducru- Doo'-crew-Bo-kah-you' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Beaucaillou
" Durfort-Vivens Dur'-for Vee'-vahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Duhart-Milon Doo'-are Mee'-long Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" L'Evangile Lev'-ahn-geel Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Ferrière Feh'-ree-err Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Filhot Feel'-oh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Fourtet Foor'-tay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.

SYMBOLS: Service Temperature: (*) Room Temperature—(**)Slightly Chilled— (***) Cold—(****) Very Cold. Serve With:
(A.C.) After Coffee—(A.D.) After Dinner—(All) All timeB, before, during or after dinner—(All F.) All food— (Apen.)
Aperitif—(B.D.) Before Dinner—(C) Cocktails—(Dsrt) Dessert— (H) Highballs,—(P) Punches— (S) Straight—(T) Toddies.,
 QUICK GUIDE TO WINES AND SPIRITS 363

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
Château Giscours Gis'-koor Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Grand La Grahn Lah Lah'-gueoon Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Lagune
Grand-Puy- Grahn Pooee Due- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Ducasse kahss'
Grand-Puy Grahn Pooee Lah-cost' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
Lacoste All F
" GriUet Gree'-yay Côtes du Table Wine White Dry All F.
Rhone, Fr.
" Graud-Larose Grew'-wad Lah-rows' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Guiraud Guee'-row Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Haut-Bages- Oh-Bahzsh Lee-beh- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Liberal rahl'
Haut-Bailly Oh-Bahee-lee Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Haut-Brion Oh-Bree-ong' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Haut-Brion- Oh Bree-ong' Blahn' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Blanc
" D'Issan Dees'-ahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Kirwan Keer-wahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
La Brede Lah Bread Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Lafaurie- Lah-foh-ree Pay-rah- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Peyraguey gay
Lafite- Lah-feet' Row'-shield Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Rothschild
Lafon-Rochet Lah-fohn'-Row-shay' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry AllF.
La Garde Lah Guard Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Lagrange Lah-grahn-sh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" La Mission- Lah Mee'-shun-Oh- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Haut-Brion Bree-ong'
" Langoa Lahn'-go-ah Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Lascombes Lahs'-comb Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
Latour Lah-toor' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
La Tour-Blanch Lah Toor Bla'hnsh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
La Tour-Camet Lah Toor Cahr'-nay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Léoville-Barton Lay'-o-veal-Bar'-tone Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
" Léoville-Las Lay'-o-veal-Lahs-Kahs Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Léoville- Lay'-o-veal Pwah'- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Poyferré feh-ray'
Lynch-Bages Leensh-Bah'zsh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Lynch-Moussas Leensh Moos'-ah Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Magdelaine Mahg'-deh-lan Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
de Malle Deh Mahl Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Malescot-St. Mahl'-ehs-koe-Sahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Exupéry Ex-uh-perry'
Margaux Mar-go Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
" Marquis Mar-quee Dal-ehm' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
D'Alesme
" Marquis de Mar-quee duh Terrm Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Terme
" Montrose Moan-rows Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Mouton- Moo'-tawn Dar'-may- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
D'Armailhacq yak
" Mouton- Moo-tawn-Row'-shield Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Rothschild
Myrat Mee'-raht Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Nairac Nay-rahk Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Olivier Oh'-lee-vee-a Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Palmer Pahl'-mere Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pape-Clément Pop Klay'-mahn Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Red * All F.
" Pavie Pah-vee Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pichon- Pee'-shong Lohng'-eh- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Longueville veal
" Pichon-Longue- Pee-shong-Lohng'-eh- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
ville-Lalande veal-Lah'-lahnd
Pedesclaux Ped'-ehs-klow Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Petit Village Petty Vee'-lahsh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Petrus Peh-trews Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pontet-Canet Pon'tay Kah'-nay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pouget Poo'-jay Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Rabaud-Promis Rah'-bow Pro'-mee Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Rieussec Ree'-uh-seck Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Romer Row'-mere Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Rausan-Ségla Row'-zahn Sayg'-lah Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Rauzan Gassies Row'-zahn Gah'-zee-a Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
de Rayne- Duh Reign-Veen'-yoh Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Vigneau
" Saint-Pierre Sahng-Pee-ere' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
 З64 APPENDIX

Name. Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
Château Sigalas-Rabaud See'-fah-lah Rah'-bow Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Smth-Haut- SmeetohLah-feet' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Dry All F.
" Suduhlut Soo'-dee-row Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
" Talbot Tahl'-bow Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry *
" Du Tertre Due Tester Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
" Trotanoy TW-tah-nwah , Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All. F
" Vieux Château- View Shot'-oh Ser'- Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry
" Yquem Ee'calm Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Whit. Sweet *** All F.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Shot-oh-nuf-due-pop Rhone, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * A.D.
Cherry Liqueur Leek-ere' Various Lioueur Red Sweet, fruity All F.
Chevalier-Montrachet Shevahl'-yea Moan'- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Chianti Kee-ahn'-tee Tuscany, It. Table Wine Red Dry **** All F.
Cider Spain and Sparkling Straw Sweet All F
England Wine Red Dry * All. F.
Clos de Bêze Klo deh Behz Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All. F
Clos de la Commareine Klo-deh-lah-Koh'- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F
Clos de Fèves Klo deh Fehv' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry **** All F
Clos Gaensbroennel Klo Gains'-broy-nell Alsace, Fr Table Wine White Med. Sweet All F.
Clos des Lambrays Klo day-Lahm-bray' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Clos des Mouches Klo day Moosh' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All. F
Clos de la Mousse Klo-deh-lah-Moos' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
Clos de la Perrière Klo deh lah Perry-ere' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Clos de la Roche Klo duh lah Rush' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F
Clos du Roi Klo due Ruah' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Clos St. Denis Klo Sang Denny' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry **** All F
Clos Sainte-Odile Klo Sahnt-Oh-deel' Alsace, Fr Table Wine White Med. Dry All F.
Clos de Tart Klo-duh-Tar' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Clos de Vougeot Klo duh Voo'-joe Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Cognac Koh-knee-ack' Cognac, Fr. Brandy Brown Dry A.D.,C
Cointreau Kwan'-troh Angers, Fr. Liqueur White Sweet orange *A.D. & C
Collares Koh-vahr'-ehs Portugal Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Combottes, Aux Oh-kohm-but' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
Cortaillod Kore'-tie-low Switzerland Table Wine Red Dry All F.
Cortese Kore-teh'-seh Piedmont, It. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Corton, Le Luh Kore-tawn' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Corvo di Casteldaccia Kore'-voe dee Sicily, Italy Table Wine White Dry
Kahs-tell-dah'- •
Côte Rôtie Coat Wrote-ee' Rhone, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Cras, Aux O-kra Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Crême de Banane Krem duh Bah-nahn' Various Liqueur Golden Sweet * A.D.
Banana
Crêmede Cacao Krem duh Kah-kah'-oh Various Liqueur Choco- Sweet, * A.D.& С
late chocolate
Crême de Cassis Krem duh Kah'-see France Liqueur Red Sweet, H&C
currant
Crêmede Menthe Krem duh Mahnth' Various Liqueur White&Sweet, minty **** A.D. С
Green & H
Crême de Violettes Krem duh Vee'-oh-let' Various Liqueur Violet Sweet, violet * A.D. & C
Crême Yvette Krem-Ee-vet' Conn., U.S. A. Liqueur Blue, Sweet, violet A.D.&C
violet
Csopaki Furmint Cho'-pa-key Foor'-mint Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** C, H & P
Cuban Rum Cuba Rum Pale & Dry C, H & P
Gold
Curaçao Kure-ah-sew' Various Liqueur Orange Sweet, A.D., C
orange & P
Danziger Goldwasser Dahn'-zeeg-er Danzig Liqueur White Sweet * A.D.
Guld'-vah-sir All F
Debroi Harslevelu Deh'-broy Hungary Table Wine White Med. Sweet All. F
Harsh'-level-you
Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Die'-dehs-high-mer Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Line'-hoil-eh
Demerara Rum Dem-eh-rah'-rah British Guiana Rum Dark Med. Sweet All F
Dhroner Hotberg Drone'-ere Hoff'-burg Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All. F
Drambuie Dram-bue'-ee Scotland Liqueur Golden Sweet, spicy
Dubonnet Do-boh-nay' France Aromatised Red Sweet S. B.D. &
wine

SYMBOLS: Service Temperature: (*) Room Temperature—(**) Slghtly Chilled—(***) Cold—(****) Very Cold. Serve With:
(A.C.) After Coffee—(A.D.) After Dinner—(All) All times, before, during or after dinner—(All F.)Allfood—(Aperi.)
Aperitif—(B.D.) Before Dinner—(C) Cocktails—(Dsrt) Dessert—(H) Highballs—(P) Punches—(S) Straight—(T) Toddies.
 QUICK GUIDE TO WINES AND SPIRITS 365

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
East India Brown Jerez, Spain Sherry Dark Sweet * A.D. &
Brown All
Eau de Vie de Marc Oh-duh-Vee-duh-Mar France Brandy Brown Dry * S.&A.D
Échezeaux-du-Dessus, Lays-Eh'-shehs-oh Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Les due Deh'-sue
Egri Bikaver Egg'-ree Bee'-kah-verr Hungary Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
En Charlemagne On-Sharl'-uh-mahnj Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Enkircher Steffensberg En'-keerk-her Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Steff'-ens-burg
Epenots, Les Lays Eh'-pen-oh Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Erdner Treppchen Erd'-nerr Trepf'-shen Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Est, Est, Est Latium, Italy Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Falerno Fah-lehr'-no Campania, It. Table Wine White&Dry *** All F.
Red *
Fernet Branca Fer-net' Brahn'-kah Italy&U. S. A. Bitters Dark Bitter C&H
Fino Feen'-oh Jerez, Spain Sherry Pale Dry *** All
Fleurie Fl-uh'-ree Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Flor Alpina Flor Ahl-pea'-nah Italy Liqueur Golden Sweet * A.D.
Forbidden Fruit New Jersey, Liqueur Orange Sweet * A.D.
U. S. A.
Forster Jesuitengarten Forst'-ere Jeh-sweet'- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
en-gart'-en
Forster Kirctenstück Forst'-ere Keerk'-hen- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry All F.
stick
Frascati Frahs-kah'-tee Latium, Italy Table Wine White Med. Sweet *** All F.
French Vermouth Ver-moot' Midi, Fr. Aromatised White Dry B.D.&C.
Wine
Gaudichots, Les Lay Go'-dee-show Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Geneva Holland Gin White Dry * B.D.&H
Genevrières, Les Lay Jen'-eh-vree-ere' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Gentil John'-teel Alsace, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Dry **** All F.
Gevrey-Chambertin Gev'-ray-Shahm'-ber- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
tahng
Gewuerz-Traminer Geh-wurtz' Trah- Alsace, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
meen'-er
Gin, London Dry U.S.&Eng. Gin White
Dry C.H&S
Gin, Old Tom Eng.&U. S. Gin White
Med. Sweet *** H&S
Giro di Sardegna Geer-oh'dee Sahr- Sardinia, It. Dessert Wine Red
Sweet * A.D. &
deh'-nyah All
Gomme, Syrop de Seer'-opp duh Gaum France Syrup Grey Sweet **** C&P
Goutte d'Or, La Lah Goot-Door Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Graacher Himmelreich Grah'-her Him'mel- Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
ryekh
Gragnano Grah-nya'-no Campania, It. Table Wine Red Dry *- All F.
Grand Marnier Grahn Mahr-knee'-aye Cognac, Fr. Liqueur Orange Sweet, * A.D., S &
orange C
Grands Échezeaux, Les Lay Grand Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Eh'-sheh-zoh'
Graves Grahv Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Greco di Gerace Greh'-koh dee Calabria, It. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Jer-ah'-cheh
Grenadine Various Syrup Red Sweet *** C&P
Grèves, Les Lay Grehv Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Grizing Grin'-sing Austria Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Granhäuser-Maximin- Grueen'-hoi-sir Max- Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Grunhäuser-Herrenberg ee-meen'-Grueen'-
hoi-sir-Herr'en-burg
Gumpoldskirchner Goom'-polds-keerkh- Austria Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
ner
Haitian Rum Haiti Rum Straw Dry **** C, P.H
&S
Hallgartner SchönheU Hahl'-gart-ner Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Shoen'-hell
Hattenheimer Hot'-en-high-mer Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Nussbrunnen News'-brew-nen
Haut Barsac Oh-Bar'-sock Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Haut Sauternes Oh So-turn' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Hermitage Ere'-me-taj Rhone, Fr. Table Wine Red & Dry *&*** All F.
White
Hervelets, Les Lays Er-veh-lay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Hochheimer Hock'-high-mer Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hochheimer Hock'-high-mer Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Kirchenstück Keerk'-hen-stick
366 APPENDIX

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. W ith
Hohenwarther Hoe'-hen-wahr-ter Austria Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hollands Holland Gin White Dry • B.D& H
Hospices de Beaune Awes'-piece-duh-Bone' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Ile des Vergelesses Eel day Vere'-jeh-less' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Inferno Een-fer'-no Lombardy, It. Table Wine Red Dry * All.F
Italian Vermouth Italian Ver-moot' Italy Aromatised Brown Bitter sweet **** S&C
Wine
Jamaica Rum Jamaica,B.W.I. Rum Golden Med. Sweet **** C, H&P
& Dark
Jarrons, Les Lay Zyah'-rong Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Johannisberger Hölle Yo-han'-is-burger Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hoi'-leh
JosefBhofer Yo'-sehfs-hoe'-ferr Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Juliénas Jew-lee'-eh-nah Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Kéknyelü Cake'-neel-you Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Kirsch Keersh Various Cherry White Dry bitter * A.D.
Brandy almond
Kirschwasser Keersh'-fah-sir Various Cherry White Dry, bitter * A.D.
Brandy almond
Klösterneuberger Cloister-new'-burger Austria Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Knipperlé Knip-pearl-lay Alsace, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Kummel Kim'-mel Various Liqueur White Sweet *** A.C.
Caraway
Lacryma Christi Lah'-cream-ah Campania, It. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Crease'-tea
Latricières, Le Luh Lah-tree-see-air' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Laubenheimer Lau-ben-high-mur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Lavières, Les Lay Lah-vee-air' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Leanyka Edes Lay'-on-kah A'-desh Hungary Table Wine White Med. Sweet *** All F.
Leanyka Szaras Lay'-on-kah Shah'- Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
rahsh
Liebfraumlich Leeb'-frau-milsh Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Med. Dry **** All F.
Lisbon Portugal Dart. Wine Red Sweet * B&A.D.
Mâcon Mah'-cong Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Madeira Mah-day'-rah Madeira 'Dart. Wine Golden Dry-Sweet * All
Malaga Mah'-lah-gah Malaga, Sp. Dsrt. Wine Dark Sweet * All
Malconsorts, Les Lay Mal'-cawn-sore Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Malmsey Mahm'-zee Madeira Dsrt. Wine Dark Sweet * All
Malvasia di Lipari Mahl-vah-see'-ah-dee- Sicily, Italy Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Lee'-pah-ree
Manzanilla Mahn-zah-knee'-yah Jerez, Spain Sherry Straw
Dry **** B.D.& B
Maraschino Ma-rahs-key'-no Various Liqueur White
Sweet cherry * A.D., C
&P
Marco Mahr'-coe Greece Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Marconnets, Les Lay Mar'-con-nay Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Markobrunn Mahr'-coe-bruhn Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Marsala Mar-sah'-lah Sicily, Italy Dsrt. Wine Brown Sweet * All
Martinique Rum Martinique, Rum Dark Sweet **** C, H&P
F. W.I.
Mavrodaphne Mahv-row-dahf'-neh Greece Dsrt Wine Red Sweet * All
Mazis-Hauts, Lea Lay Mah'-iee-Oh Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Medoc May-dock Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Mercurey Mere'-cue-ray Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Meursault Mere'-so Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Meursault-Charmes Mere-so-Sharm Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Meursault-les-PerrieresMere'-so-lay-Pear'- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
ee-ere'
Mirabelle Me-rah-bell' Alsace, Fr. Plum Brandy White Dry-Plum * A.D.
Montilla Mon-tea'-yah Cordova, Sp. Aperitif Wine Straw Dry *** All
Montrachet, Le Luh Moan'-rah-ehay Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Moscatel de Malaga Mos-kah-tell'-deh- Malaga, Sp. Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Mah'-lah-gah
Moscatel de Sitges Mos-kah-tell'-deh- Catalonia, Sp. Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Seaf-yes
Moscato-Fior d'Arancio Mos-kah'-toe Fee-or- Sicily, Italy Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
dar-shn'-cho
Moscato di Pantelleria Mos-kah'-toe-dee- Sicily, Italy Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Pan-tell-er-ee'-ah

SYMBOLS: Serriet Temperature: (*) RoomTemperature—(**)Slightly Chilled—(***) Cold—(****) Very Cold. Serte with:
(A.C.) After Coffee—(A.D.) After Dinner—(All) All times, before, during or after dinner—(AU F.)Allfood—(Aperi.)
Aperitif—(B.D.) Before Dinner—(C) Cocktails—(Dsrt) Dessert—(H) Highballs—(P) Punches—(S) Straight—(T) Toddies.
 QUICK GUIDE TO WINES AND SPIRITS 367

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Teste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
Moscato di Salento Mos-kah'-toe dee Apulia, Italy Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Sah-lent'-oh
Moselblümchen Mosel-blueem'-shen Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Moulin-a-Vent Moo'-lan-ah-Vahn Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Murgers, Aux Oh-Moor-jer' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Musigny, Le Luh Moo'-see-knee Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Muskotaly Moosh'-ko-tah-lee Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Nackenheimer Knock'-en-high-mur- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Rothenberg Row'-ten-burg
Nebbiolo Nehb-bee-oh'-lo Piedmont, It. Table Wine Red Med. Sweet * All F.
Neuchâtel New-shah-tell' Switzerland Table Wine White Dry All F.
Niersteiner Domthal Near'-shtine-ur- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Dome'-tahl
Niersteiner Rehbach Near'-shtine-ur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Ray'-back
Nuits-Saint-Georges Newee'-Sang-Jorj' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Oeil de Perdrix Oh-ale duh-Pear'-dree Burgundy, Fr. Sparkling Pink Med. Sweet All F.
Wine
Oloroso Sherry Oh-loh-roh-'soh Jerez, Spain Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet All
Oppenheimer Herrenberg Oppen-high'-mur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Herren-burg
Oppenheimer Sackträger Oppen-high'-mur- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Sock'-tray-ger
Orange Bitters Eng.&U. S. A. Bitters Orange Bitter C & P
Orgeat Orz'-yacht France Syrup Grey Sweet, C&P
almond
Orvieto Or-vee-et'-oh Umbria, Italy Table Wine White Dry&Sweet **** All F.
Parfait Amour Par-fate'-Ah-moor' Various Liqueur Violet Sweet * A.D.
Peach Liqueur Various Liqueur Brown Sweet-peach * A.D.
Pernand-Vergelesses Pear'-nahn-Ver'- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry All F.
jell-es
Perrières, Les Lay Pear-ee-ere' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Perry England Sparkling Straw Sweet All F.
Pear Wine * All F.
Petit Musigny, Le Luh Petty Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Petita Vougeots, Les Lay Petty-Voo'-joe Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pfaffstätter Fahf'-state-er Austria Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Piesporter Peas'-porter Moselle. Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Goldtröpfschen Guld-trepf'-ehen
Piesporter. Lay Peas'-porter Lie Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Poirets, Les Lay Pwah-ray' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pomerol Poe'-mer-all Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pommard Poe'-mahr Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Pongets, Les Lay Pawn-jay' Burgundy. Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Port Portugal & Dsrt. Wine Red Sweet * All
U.S.A.
Porter England & Malt Dark Bitter ** All
Ireland Beverage
Pousse Cafe Pous-Kah-fay' France Liqueur Brown Sweet * A.D.
Prunelle Prune-ell' France Liqueur Brown Sweet, plum * A.D.
Pucelle, La Lah-Poo-sell' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry All F.
Puligny-Montrachet Pool'-ee-nee Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine White Dry AU F.
Moan'-rah-shay
Quetsch Ketch Alsace, Fr. Plum brandy White Dry • A.D.
Quinquina Can-can'-ah France Aromatised Red 4 Sweet-bitter **** S&C
Wine White
Renards, Les Lay-Ren-ahr' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Rhum Rum France Rum Dark Sweet *** C, H&P
Richebourg, Les Lay Rish'-eh-boorg Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Rioja Ree-oh'-ha Spam Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Riesling Rees-liug Various Table Wine White Dry All F.
Rizüng Szemelt Rees-ling Seh'melt Hungary Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Romanee, La Lah-Rome-ah-nay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Romanee Conti, La Lah Rome-ah-nay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Kawn-tee'
Romanee Saint-Vivant, Lah Rome-ah-nay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
La Sang Vee'-vahn
Ron Run Cuba Rum Light 4 Dry C, H&S
Gold
Rose, Vin Van Row-say' France Table Wine Pink Dry *** All F.
Ruby Port Portugal Dsrt. Wine Red Sweet * All
Ruchottes, Les Lay Rue-shut' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wines Red Dry * All F.
368 APPENDIX

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
Hildesheimer Hauseweg Ruee'-des-high-mur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hoi'-sir-veg
Rüdesheimer Hinterhaus Ruee'-des-Mgh-mur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hint'-er-house
Radesheimer Schlossberg Ruee'-des-high-mur Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Shloss'-burg
Rugiens, Les LayRue-jen' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Ruppertsberger Rup'-perts-burger Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Hoheburg Hoh'-heh-burg
Rye Whiskey U. S. A. Whiskey Brown Dry S, H&C

St. Emilion Sang-A-mee-lee-ons/ Bordeaui, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Saint-Georges, Les Lay Sang-jorj' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * AU F.
Saint-Jacques Sang Jack' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Sake Sah-kay' Japan Rice Beer White Dry * All F.
Sangiovese Sahn-gee-oh-veh'-seh Emilia, Italy Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Sansevero San-seh'-veh-row Apulia, Italy Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Santenots-du-Milieu Sang'-teh-no-due- Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Meal-you'
SasseUa Sah-seh'-la Lombardy.lt. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Saumur Sow-mure Anjou, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Sweet All F.
8auternes So-turn' Bordeaux, Fr. Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Scheidam She'-dam Holland Gin White Dry *** S & H
Schloss Johannisberg Shloss-Yo-hann'-is- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
burg
Schloss Reinhardshausen Shloss-Rine'-hearts- Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
housen
Schloss VoUrads Shloss-FaU'-rods Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Bouppernong Scoop-er-nong Southeastern Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Ü.S.A.
Sercial Sir'-see-ahl Madeira Dsrt. Wine Golden Med. Dry ** All
Sidra See'-drah Northern Sparkling Gold Sweet-apple****AllF.
Spain Cider
SUvovitj ShuV-oh-wita Hungary Hum brandy Brown Dry * S & A.D.
Sloe Gin Slow-Gin England 4 Liqueur Reddish Sweet, * A.D.,&S
U. S. A. astringent C
Soave So-ah'-veh Veneto, Italy Table Wine White Dry *** All F.
Somlöyi Furmint Shom'-loy-ee Somloy, Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Foor'-mint Hungary
Spanish Brandy Jens, Spain Brandy Brown Med. Dry * S&A.D.
Sparkling Burgundy Burgundy, Fr., Sparkling Red 4 Med. Sweet **** All F.
Wine White
Sparkling MoseUe Moselle, Germ. Sparkling White Sweet All F.
Wine
Steinberger Stine'-burg-err Rhine, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Steinwein Stine-wine Würzburg, Table Wine White Dry All F.
Germ.
Stout England * Malt Dark Bitter ** All
Ireland Beverage
Strega Streh'-gah Benevento, Liqueur Golden Sweet * A.D.
Italy
Suchots, Les Lay-Soo-show' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Sylvaner Sil'-vah-nur Alsace, Fr. Table Wine White Med. Dry *** All F.
Swedish Punsch Sweden Liqueur YeUow Sweet, *** A.D.
rummy
Sweet Catawba Cah-taw'-bah Ohio&New Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
York,U.S.A.
Szilvanyi Zold Sil'-vahn-ee Zuld Hungary Table Wine White Med. Sweet *** All F.

Tâche, La Lah-Tahsh' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.

Tavel Tah-vell' Rhone, Fr. Table Wine Pink Dry **** All F.
Tawny Port Portugal Dsrt. Wine Red Sweet * All
Tegea Teh-gay'-ah Greece Table Wine Pink Dry *** All F.
Tequila Teh-key'-lah Mexico & Spirit Pale Dry * B.D.&S
U.S.A.
Tokay Assu Ah'-aue Hungary Tokay White Sweet * All
Tokay Szamorodni Sah'-ma-rud-knee Hungary Tokay White Dry *** All
Torre Giulia Toe'-ray Jew'-lee-ah Apulia, Italy Table Wine
White Med. Dry **** All F.
Traminer Trah-mean'-err Alsace, Fr. Table Wine
White Med. Dry *** All F.
Triple Sec Triple-Seck Various Liqueur White Sweet, * S, A.D. &
orange C
Trittenheimer Trit'-en-high-mur Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Laurentiusberg Lauh-ren'-shus-burg

SYMBOLS: Service Temperature: (*) Room Temperature—(**) Slightly Chilled— (***) Cold—(****) Very Cold. Sent With:
(A.C.) After Coffee—(A.D.) After Dinner—(All) All times, before, during or after dinner—(All F.) All food—(Aperi.)
Aperitif—(B.D.) Before Dinner—(C) Cocktails—(Dsrt) Dessert—(H) Highballs—(P) Punches— (S) Straight—(T) Toddies.
 QUICK GUIDE TO WINES AND SPIRITS 369

Name Phonetic Spelling Source Type Color Taste Serv. Serve

Temp. With
Valmur Val'-moor Chablis, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Valpolicella Val-pol-lee-cheh'-lah Veneto, Italy Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Valtellina Val-tel-lee'-nah Veneto, Italy Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Vaucrains, Les Lay Voh-crahn' Burgundy, Fr. Tabe Wne Red Dry * All F
Vaudésir Voh-day-zeer Chablis, Fr. Table Wine White Dry **** All F
Verdicchio di Jesi Ver-deek'-yoh dee Marches. Italy Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Vernaccia Ver-nah'-chee-ah Italy Table Wine White Sweet *** All F.
Vigne-Blanche, La Lah-veen-Blahnsh' Burgundy, Fr. Tabe Wine White Dry **** All F..
Villanyi-Pecs Vill'-ah-nyee Peh'-ch Pecs, Hungary Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Vin Santo Veen-San'-toe Tuscany, Italy Table Wine White Sweet *** All-
Vino de Pasto Vee'-no deh Pahs'-toe Jerez, Spain Sherry Pale Dry *** All
Vodka Wohd'-kah Russia & Wheat White Dry **** B.D.
U. S. A. Whiskey „ _ * All F.
Volnay Vaul'-nigh Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F..
Vöslau Fuss'-lah-oo Austria Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Vosne-Romanée Vone-Row-mah-nay' Burgundy, Fr. Table Wine Red Dry * All F
Vouvray Voov-ray Touraine, Fr. Table Wme White Sweet *** All F.
Wasserbillig Vah-sir-bill'-eeg Luxemburg Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Vale'-en-er Sohn'-en-oor Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
White Port Portugal Dsrt. Wine Golden Sweet * All
Wiltinger Vill'-tinger Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Schlangengraben Shlahn'-gen-grah-ben **** All F.
Wiltinger Scharzhofberg Vill'-tinger Moselle, Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Sharr-hohf-burg White Dry **** All F.
Wormeldinger War'-mell-dinger Luxemburg Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Würsburge Leiste Wirts'-burger Lies-teh Würzburg. Ger. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Würzburger Stein Wirts'-burger Stine Wurzburg.Ger. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Zeltinger Schlossberg Zell'-tinger Shloss'-burg Moselle Germ. Table Wine White Dry **** All F.
Zinfandel Zin'-fan-dell Calif., U. S. A. Table Wine Red Dry * All F.
Zubrovka Zoo'-brov-kah Russia&U.S.A. Flavored Straw Dry **** B.D.
Spirit

Appendix B
Vintage Chart of the Last Twenty Years
BORDEAUX Rhine &
Year Champagne Claret White Wine Burgundy Alsace Moselle Port

1933 4* 5 4 5 4 5 2
1934 5* 6 6 5 5 6 5*
1935 1 1 2 3 2 4 5*
1936 3 4 1 1 1
1937 5* 6 6 6 5 7 3
1938 3 3 3 3 2 3 5
1939 2 2 2 2 3 3
1940 2 4 3 4 3 5
1941 4 2 2 1 4
1942 4 3 4 3 4 5 6*
1943 6* 5 6 6 5 6 5
1944 3 4 4 2 3 4 4
1945 5* 5 6 6 6 6 6*
1946 4 2 3 5 3 5 5
1947 7* 6 7 7 7 6 7*
1948 3 5 4 5 4 5 7*
1949 6* 6 6 6 7 7 4
1950 2 5 4 4 3 5 5*
1951 3 3 3 2 4 4
1952 6t 6 5 5 5 4 1
1953 St S 5 4 7 7 1

* Shipped as a vintage wine, t It is too early to know for sure, but probably both these vintages
will be shipped.
Note: I wish to call attention to the fact that the opinion, expressed here, as to the relative quality
of any given vintage is necessarily very general. In poor years, some growers succeed in making better
wines than the average for that vintage, and inversely not all wines turn out great in a "great"
year. The order of rating is as follows: 1. poor, 2. fair, 3. average, 4. good, 5. very good, 6. great,
7. extraordinary.
 Appendix C

Cost and Profit Charts*

KNOW YOUR LIQUOR COSTS
Cost Cotts per Costa per Cost Cost perCostper
Price Coat Cost 1 oz. 1 oz. Price Coat Coat 1 oz. 1 oz.
per per ver per, Drink Drink per per per per, Drink Drink
CASE Quart Pint Quart» Fifth, Caee Quart Pint quarts Fifths
384 ozs.307 ozs. 384 ozs.307ozs,
10.00 . 833 . 417 . 209 . 026 . 033 33.00 2.75 1.375 . 688 . 086 .107
11.00 . 917 . 458 . 229 . 029 .036 34.00 2.833 1.417 . 709 . 089 .111
12.00 1.00 . 50 . 25 . 031 .039 35.00 2.917 1.458 . 729 . 091 .114
13.00 1.083 . 542 . 271 .034 . 042 36.00 3.00 1.50 . 75 . 094 .117
14 00 1.167 . 583 . 292 . 036 .046 37.00 3.083 1.542 . 771 .096 .121
15 00 1.25 . 625 . 313 . 039 .049 38.00 3.167 1.583 . 792 .099 .124
16 00 1.333 . 667 . 334 . 042 . 052 39.00 3.25 1.625 . 813 .102 .127
17.00 1.417 . 708 . 354 . 044 .055 40.00 3.333 1.667 . 834 .104 .13
18.00 1.60 . 75 . 375 . 047 . 059 41.00 3.417 1.708 . 854 .107 .134
19 00 1 583 . 792 . 396 .049 . 062 42.00 3.50 1.75 . 876 .109 .137
20.00 1.667 . 833 . 417 .052 .065 43.00 3.588 1.792 . 896 .112 .14
21.00 1.75 . 875 . 438 . 055 . 068 44.00 3.667 1.833 . 917 .115 .143
22 00 1.833 . 917 . 459 . 057 . 072 45.00 3.75 1.875 . 938 .117 .147
23.00 1.917 .958 . 479 .06 . 075 46.00 3.833 1.917 . 959 .12 .15
24.00 2.00 1.00 . 50 . 063 . 078 47.00 3.917 1.958 . 979 .122 .153
25 00 2 083 1.042 . 521 .066 . 081 48.00 4.00 2.00 1.00 .125 .156
26.00 2.167 1.083 . 542 .068 . 085 49.00 4.083 2.042 1.021 .128 .16
27.00 2.25 1.125 . 563 . 07 . 088 50.00 4.167 2.083 1.042 .13 .163
28 00 2.333 1.167 . 584 . 073 . 091 51.00 4.25 2.125 1.063 .133 .166
29 00 2 417 1.208 . 604 . 076 . 094 62.00 4.333 2.167 1.084 .135 .169
30.00 2.50 1.25 . 625 . 078 . 098 53.00 4.417 2.208 1.104 .138 .173
31 00 2 583 1.292 . 646 . 081 .101 54.00 4.50 2.25 1.125 .141 .176
32 00 2 666 1.333 . 667 . 083 .104 55.00 4.583 2.292 1.146 .143 .179

INCOME FROM QUARTS AND FIFTHS SOLD BY THE DRINK

QUARTS FIFTHS

Size of Glass 10c 15c 20c 25c 30c 35c 40c 45c 50c Size of Glass 10c 15c 20c 25c 30c 35c 40c 45c 50c
3/4 oz.4 20 6 30 8.40 10.60 12.60 14.70 16.80 18.90 21.00 3/4 3.20 4.80 6.40 8.00 9.60 11.20 12.80 14.40 16.00
1 oz. 3 50 20 4 80 6 40 8.00 9.60 11.20 12.80 14.40 16.00 1 oz. 2.50 3.75 5.00 6.25 7.50 8.75 10.00 11.25 12.50
1 1/4OZ.2 3 75 5 00 6.25 7.50 8.75 10.00 11.25 12.5011/4oz.2.00 3.00 4.00 5.00 6.00 7.00 8.00 9.OO 10.00
1У2
oz. 2 10 3.15 4.20 5.25 6.30 7.35 8.40 9.45 10.50 1 1/2. 1.60 2.40 3.20 4.00 4.80 5.60 6.40 7.20 8.00
oz. 1 60 2 40 3 20 4.00 4.80 5.60 6.40 7.20 8.00 2 oz. 1.20 1.80 2.40 3.00 3.60 4.20 4.80 5.40 6 00
2 oz 1 20 1 80 2 40 3.00 3.60 4.20 4.80 5.40 6.0021/2oz. 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.50 3.00 3.50 4.00 4.50 5.00
2 1/2

INCOME FROM A HALF BARREL OF BEER

No. of Glasses Site 5c per Glass 10c per Glass No. of Glasses Site Sc per Glass 10c per Glass
165 12 oz0. 8.25 16.50 248 8oz. 12.40 24.80
180 11 oz. 9.00 18.00 283 7 oz. 14.15 28.30
198 10 oz. 9.90 19.80 330 6 oz. 16.50 33.00
220 9 oz. 11.00 22.00

•Reproduced by permission of the copyright owner, Elliott A. Johnson of Madison, Wis.

370
 Appendix D

Technical Explanation
of Vinous Fermentation*

I. GRAPE-JUICE
Fermentation consists in a series of complex chemical changes, the most important
of which causes the transformation of grape-sugar into ethyl alcohol and carbonic acid
gas, a transformation which is rendered possible chiefly by the accelerating o r catalyctic
action of the fermenting enzyme known as Zymase. But grape-juice is not a mixture
of water and grape-sugar with saccharomycetes in it. It is very complex, and there are
in it other enzymes besides Zymase. There are other chemical reactions taking place
at the same time as those which are responsible for the presence of ethyl alcohol in
wine, and these different reactions depend, in the first place, upon the chemical com­
position of the must, and the presence of certain enzymes—and, in the second place,
upon external conditions existing at the time.
Climatic conditions are beyond the control of man. T h e soil of the vineyards may be
improved to a certain extent by drainage and fertilizers, but its chief characteristics
remain unaltered. Species of grapes may be judiciously selected and grafted. Grapes
may be carefully picked and they may be pressed by different methods, but the last
stage, the fermenting of grape-juice into wine, which is so important, may be con­
trolled by the art of man more than any of the other factors which are responsible for
the making of wine.
Different processes of fermentation are suited to the different chemical composition
of different "musts," and aim at securing different types of wine.
On the whole, it may be said that the process of fermentation, which is an abso­
lutely natural phenomenon, might be left to transform grape-juice into wine without
any interference from man, except in the case of sparkling, fortified, or other such
wines. This is true, but like all truths, it is true only up to a point. Grass grows in the
fields quite naturally, even in wet fields, but, if no one attends to ditching and hedg­
ing, moss may some dav grow quite naturally where clover used to grow. W i n e left too
long to ferment upon its husks will draw colour from the skins if they be those of
black grapes, but it will also draw from the pips, stalks or the small pedoncules, more
acidity and tannin and more of the unsuitable acids which may prove objectionable
later.

ALCOHOLIC FERMENTATION
Let us measure a gallon of grape-juice and weigh the quantity of grape-sugar it con­
tains. Say that we find 32 oz. of grape-sugar present. Then let us look for our 32 oz. of
sugar after the same grape-juice shall have finished fermenting. W e shall not find any
sugar but, in its place, we shall find about 17 oz. of ethyl alcohol. What has happened?
This. Each molecule of grape-sugar, representing 180 by weight, has been split up by
fermentation into two molecules of ethyl alcohol (each 46 by weight) and two mole­
cules of carbon dioxide (each 44 by weight). T h e carbon dioxide has lost itself in the
* Reprinted from " T h e Supply, the Care and the Sale of W i n e " by permission of
the author, André L. Simon.
371
 372 APPENDIX
air and the ethyl alcohol has remained in the wine—hence a gallon of wine will be
lighter than a gallon of grape-juice, the difference being that of the weight of the
escaped carbonic acid gas. At the same time, 17 oz. of ethyl alcohol take up the same
space as 32 oz. of grape-sugar, so that we shall have a gallon of wine in place of a
gallon of grape-juice, the bulk of our wine being practically the same as the bulk of
the grape-juice, although its weight will be slightly less.
W e could, therefore, describe alcoholic fermentation by means of the following sim­
ple formula:—

C6H12O6 = 2C2H6O + 2CO2

(Grape-sugar) = (Alcohol) + (Carbon dioxide)

Remembering that the atomic weight of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are respec­
tively: C = 12; H= 1; O = 16; o n e molecule of grape-sugar, two of ethyl alcohol and
two of carbon dioxide will represent:—

(Grape-sugar). (Alcohol).
C6 =12x 6 = 72 C, = 1 2 x 4 = 4 8
H12 = 1 x 12 = 12 H „ = 1 x 12 = 12
O6 = 16 x 6 = 96
O, = 16 x 2 = 32
180
(Carbon dioxide). 92
C, = : 12 x 2 = 24
O4 = 1 6 x 4 = 64

88

Alcoholic fermentation is therefore a molecular re-adjustment of the carbon, hydro­

gen and oxygen of grape-sugar. In theory, it seems quite simple—in practice it is very
complicated.
T o begin with, grape-sugar is not a compact entity made u p of six atoms of carbon,
twelve of hydrogen and six of oxygen. On balance, there is that number of atoms to
be found in one molecule of grape-sugar, but they are arranged in distinct groups in
the following manner:—

Dextrose. Fructose.
CHO CH2.OH
I I
CHOH CO
I I
CHOH + CHOH
I I
CHOH CHOH
I I
CHOH CHOH
I I
There are 6 atoms of carbon, 12 of hydrogen, and 6 of oxygen in their grouping;
CH2OH CH2OH
they are knit together in a strictly orderly manner, until the saccharomycetes give the
signal, by a loud rap on the piano, for a wild game of musical chairs. Then all is con­
fusion, order is destroyed, there is a rush, hot pursuit, until, all of a sudden, the music
ceases, and order reigns once more. Some have lost their seats, others have changed
seats and have new neighbours. Of course, if there is no air in the room there cannot
be any game. This is a very rough and unscientific simile, but it may serve to convey
 TECHNICAL EXPLANATION OF VINOUS FERMENTATION 373
to your minds the main idea of alcoholic fermentation; it necessitates some one at the
piano, i.e. an enzyme; it begins and ends with order, but the intervening period is
very confused, and it is during this confusion that all sorts of things happen. There is
a loss incurred in the process, and, above all, oxygen, i.e. fresh air, is wanted all the
time.
Although Zymase, the fermenting enzyme, is necessary to the process of alcoholic
fermentation, it does not take any active part in the game which it sets going. Its
chemical composition is such that it acts as a catalyst, that is to say a remover of hin­
drance or an accelerator of reactions. It does so without taking anything away or giv­
ing up any of its own substance.

TEMPERATURE AND FERMENTATION

A suitable temperature for the immediate growth of the saccharomycetes is of great
importance, since their enzyme "Zymase" is indispensable to alcoholic fermentation.
But wine is not merely grape-juice with its grape-sugar changed into alcohol and car­
bon dioxide: in grape-juice there are many other substances besides grape-sugar, and
they cannot be expected to remain unaffected by the internal revolution which destroys
the chemical structure of grape-sugar and rebuilds with the same materials, ethyl alco­
hol and carbon dioxide. This revolution is the work of alcoholic fermentation, but
other fermentations take place at the same time, other vegetable substances which
were in grape-juice are altered, increased, reduced or may entirely disappear, in ways
which differ according to the different enzymes and other catalysts present, as well as
according to differences of temperature affecting not only the rate of molecular
exchanges, but also the degree of solubility of certain acids.
Temperature is an important factor in fermentation because of the influence it
exercises upon the rate of molecular exchanges and upon the solubility of various
acids. Grape-juice is so complex, it contains such a large number of various com­
pounds, that any and every variation of temperature is liable to affect some chemical
reaction upon which may depend, at a later date, some characteristic of the wine.
T o sum up, let it suffice to say that the process known as fermentation is one which
consists mainly in the splitting up of each molecule of grape-sugar present in grape-
juice into two molecules of carbon dioxide. But let it be remembered ( 1 ) that there
are other fermentable substances in grape-juice besides grape-sugar; ( 2 ) that, besides
Zymase, there are other enzymes as well as other catalysts which render possible sub­
sidiary fermentations which take place concurrently or subsequently, and are respon­
sible for the presence, in wine, of compounds which did not exist in grape-juice.

II. WINE
Grape-juice is a very complex aqueous solution. Besides water and grape-sugar, it
contains acids and other substances, most of them in very small quantities, either of a
vegetable or of a mineral origin.
Wine is a still more complex aqueous solution; besides water and ethyl alcohol, it
contains glycerine, acids and many substances in minute quantities, some of which
were present in grape-juice in a different form or proportion and others which never
were in grape-juice.
Water and ethyl alcohol form generally about 97 per cent, o f the volume of wine,
but the remaining 3 per cent, are made up of very small quantities of a large variety
of substances which vary and give to different wines the distinctive colour, taste and
bouquet which are mainly responsible for the charm or lack of charm of individual
specimens of wine.
These substances may be divided into two main groups, one to include all those
which were originally present in grape-juice and the other all those which were not.
374 APPENDIX
1.—Substances, other than water, which are the same in must and wine.
Grape-sugar.
Saccharomycetes.
Acids.
Cellulose.
Essential oils, mucilage, etc.
2.—Substances other than ethyl alcohol, present in wine, but not in must.
Glycerine.
Various acids.
Alcohols, other than ethyl alcohol.
Esters and aldehydes.
Sundry other substances.

1 .—SUBSTANCES, OTHER THAN WATER, WHICH ARE THE SAME IN MUST AND WINE

(a) GRAPE-SUGAR

T h e proportion of grape-sugar which remains in wine after fermentation depends,

in the first place, upon the proportion of grape-sugar present in the must and, in the
second, upon the process or method of fermentation resorted to.
In the case of "fortified" or "sweet" wines, whether obtained like Port, by the addi­
tion of brandy during fermentation, or, like Sauternes, from over-ripe grapes, the
sweeter the must, the sweeter the wine. But, in the case of beverage wines, such as
Claret, it is often the reverse.

(6) SACCHAROMYCETES

Although Saccharomycetes are microscopic fungi, there are millions of them, and
they do not escape in air like carbon dioxide. They remain in suspension in the wine
until the end of fermentation or until the proportion of alcohol is such that it arrests
their growth. They are so fine and so light that they are neither swept down by fin­
ings nor do they fall to the bottom of the cask by their own weight; many are carried
down into the lees by the microscopic crystals of cream of tartar to which they adhere,
many more lose their identity altogether by reason of the chemical splitting up of
their cells, and some remain in the wine for all time.
There are, of course, a very large variety of Saccharomycetes and allied members
of the vast tribe of yeasts, bacteria and moulds.
A form of yeast-fungi which is not unusual in wines is the Mycoderma Vini, or
"Flowers of wine." These micro-organisms multiply very rapidly at the surface of wine
and remain on the surface in giant colonies, all holding together, and forming a film
which can be so complete as to prevent the outside air having any access to the wine.
There are quite a number of different species of film-forming microscopic fungi, all
of which require much oxygen to grow and all of which grow with astonishing rapidity.

(c) ACIDS

Generally speaking, the acids which disappear wholly or partly during fermentation
are those which are soluble in water and not in alcohol, whilst acids which appear in
much larger proportions in wine than in must are those which are formed by the
oxidation of ethyl alcohol.
Let us take but one example of each class, i.e. tartaric acid and acetic acid.
Tartaric acid is the principal acid in grape-juice. It forms a white crystalline salt
which is potassium hydrogen tartrate, commonly known as cream of tartar. Cream of
tartar is soluble in water but not in alcohol, and a good deal of the cream of tartar in
solution in grape-juice becomes solidified in the shape of fine crystals in the presence
 TECHNICAL EXPLANATION OF VINOUS FERMENTATION 375
of the alcohol of wine; in that form, it is heavier than wine, settles in the lees and is
left behind when the wine is racked. Cream of tartar is also more soluble in a warm
than in a cold aqueous solution, so that if the new wine be kept in a cold cellar, the
lower temperature together with the alcohol present will help render a greater pro­
portion of cream of tartar insoluble, thus depriving the wine, after racking, of much
acidity present in the must.
An acid must does not necessarily ferment into an acid wine. Acidity in must is of
great benefit because it assists the normal growth of yeasts and checks the development
of bacteria, so that it is favourable to alcoholic fermentation. If as well as acidity there
is a fair proportion of grape-sugar in the must, this sugar will ferment and be replaced
by a fair proportion of alcohol which, in its turn, will cause the crystallisation of a
further proportion of cream of tartar, hitherto in solution. In other words, the more
sugar in the must means the more alcohol in the wine and the less cream of tartar.
T h e proof of this is easy to make in Burgundy where Pinot grapes must and Gamay
grapes must from the same district may be compared: the first contains more acidity
and more sugar than the second, but when both have become wine, the first contains
more alcohol and less acidity than the second.
Acetic acid in wine is due to the oxidation of ethyl alcohol, one atom of oxygen
replacing two of hydrogen, thus:—

Ethyl Alcohol = C H , C H , O H
Acetic Acid = CH,CO OH

T h e more alcohol there is in a wine and the less oxygen has access to it the smaller
will be the quantity of acetic acid formed. This replacement of two hydrogen atoms
by one of oxygen is rendered possible by the presence of an enzyme secreted by the
Schitzomycetes, and they cannot grow without a free supply of oxygen from the air.
Hence when "flowers of wine" or other film forming mycoderma cover the surface of
wine and prevent all contact with the outside air, no more acetic acid can be formed.
On the other hand, wine of a low alcoholic strength kept in a fairly warm place and
in contact with the air will soon become vinegar, practically the whole of its ethyl
alcohol being changed into acetic acid. Of course, this should be avoided, and it can
be avoided with a little care. At the same time, normal and sound wine is seldom
free from acetic acid when new and, with time, this acetic acid dissolves certain min­
eral salts in wine, forming various acetates which are partly responsible for the flavour
and bouquet of wine.

(d) CELLULOSE
Cellulose is a danger in wine because it may fall a prey to certain bacteria which
cause its decomposition into fatty acids and carbonic acid gas, the former being par­
ticularly objectionable. Decomposed or "fermented" cellulose in red wine is the cause
of an extremely light viscous sediment which it is almost impossible to keep out of
the decanter and which spoils not only the look but the taste of the wine.

8.—SUBSTANCES, OTHER THAN ETHYL ALCOHOL, PRESENT IN WINE BUT NOT IN MUST
These substances are numerous and they vary according to the chemical composition
of the must, the various enzymes or catalysts present, and the rate and mode of fer­
mentation. They consist chiefly of glycerine and other alcohols, various acids, esters
and aldehydes.

(a) GLYCERINE
Most of the sugar in grape-juice is transformed by fermentation into ethyl alcohol
and carbon dioxide, but not the whole of it. Pasteur's experiments, which more recent
 376 APPENDIX
researches have completely confirmed, showed that alcoholic fermentation could not
use up more than 95 per cent, of the sugar present in grape-juice in the proportion of
about 48 per cent, ethyl alcohol and 47 carbon dioxide. T h e remaining 5 per cent, of
sugar are used up in other ways; a small quantity being used by saccharomycetes them­
selves by way of food or means of cellular development; a small percentage being
decomposed into minute quantities of various volatile acids, and the greater proportion
being used up in the production of glycerine.

(6) OTHER ALCOHOLS

Besides glycerine which, after and a long way behind ethyl alcohol, is the most
important by-product of vinous fermentation, there are other alcohols in wine. Such
are propyl and butyl alcohols, practically in all cases, and amyl alcohol sometimes.
Although these and other alcohols are present in normal wines only in minute quan­
tities, they have, like all alcohols, the property of forming esters with acids, and they
play quite an important part, compared to their volume, in the formation of the bou­
quet or aroma of wine.

(c) ACIDS
Some of the acidity in the must, particularly in, the shape of cream of tartar, dis­
appears during fermentation, but on the other hand, there are some acids which were
not in the must and which are normally present in the wine as by-products of fer­
mentation.
First among these is succinic acid, which is the principal cause of the "winy" flavour
of wine, its "saveur"; the proportion of succinic acid in a wine, according to Pasteur,
is 0.61 per cent, of the grape-sugar in the must.
A very small quantity of grape-sugar is also transformed, during fermentation, into
acetic acid, proprionic acid and traces of valerianic acid. These acids are present in
very small quantities and they d o not affect the taste of wine, but they are responsible
to a certain extent for its bouquet; the esters, which give to a wine its bouquet, being
formed by alcohols at the expense of acids. Normal wine, that is wine which is sound
and suitably fermented, contains always a little acetic acid, but it is only very little.
When acetic acid is present in wine in a noticeable amount, it is not the result of the
decomposition of grape-sugar, but the oxidation of ethyl alcohol; it is a sure sign that
the wine is not absolutely sound, that it will soon be vinegar, and no longer wine, if
the progress of acetification is not promptly checked.
T h e variety of volatile and non-volatile acids in wine, which differ from those of the
must, is very great, and Prior's researches have proved that the differences existing in
the acids of different wines were due to the differences existing in the species of sac­
charomycetes and other micro-organisms present in the must or introduced in the wine
at a later date. In every case those acids are present only in minute quantities, some­
times there are but traces of each, but the importance of the part they play upon the
degree of excellence of a wine is out of all proportion to their volume.

(d) ALDEHYDES
Aldehydes are always present in wine. They may be regarded as by-products of alco­
holic fermentation and as intermediary organic compound between alcohols and acids.
They must eventually become either acids by the action of oxidizing agents, or else
alcohols, by the intervention of reducing agents.

(e) ESTERS

T h e ethyl formates, acetates, proprionates, butyrates, lactates and other such esters
are due to reactions between alcohols and acetic acid, proprionic acid, butyric acid,
lactic acid, etc. They are volatile and give to wines their distinctive aroma.
 THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF MUST AND LIGHT BEVERAGE WINE 377

The Chemical Composition of Must and

Light Beverage Wine*
I. PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS, THEIR ORIGIN AND TRANSFORMATIONS

Measured
Mailer in gramma per litre Notes on transformations
Mutt Wine

Water 700-850 850-950 Increase during fermentation because of disappearance of sugar.

Slight loss through evaporation during aging in wood.
Sugars 150-300 1-60 Transformed through fermentation into carbon dioxide and
alcohol, a small part into glycerine and other products;
some sugar is retained unfermented in certain wines made
from very rich over-ripe grapes.
Alcohols:
Through fermentation of glucose and fructose sugars result­
Ethyllic none 7%-15% ing from the action of the yeast.
Principally glycerine, products of fermentation.
Others none .4%-. 8%
Organic acids and their salts:
a tartaric 2-5 1-0 Diminishes as deposit (sediment) of cream of tartar (potas­
sium bitartrate).
b others + + Principally products of the secondary fermentations. A small
amount of mallic acid which exists in the must becomes
lactic acid in the wine.
Esters or ether-salts 0 + Formed by the action of the acids on the alcohols in the wine;
they are responsible for the wine's bouquet; they increase
aa the wine becomes older.
Organicflavoringagents traces traces Formed during fermentation. Besides esters a few less known
such as terpenet, vanilline, etc.
Other organic substances:
a Aldehydes O traces Formed by the action of the air (oxidation) on the alcohols
in the wine.
b essential oils O traces Formed by the action of the yeasts during fermentation.
c coloring matter + increase Obtained from the skins of the grapes.
d albumin + ++ Coagulates, settles to form part of lees.
e tannin + + Obtained from stems, skins and pips; mostly precipitated by
thefiningand with the albumin.
Mineral substances:
a chlorines <1 <1
b phosphates
c silicates
d sulphates
e carbonates
f tartrates
g sodium + +
h potassium
i magnesium
j calcium
k iron
l manganese
Total extracts Diminish with disappearance of sugar.
Sugar extract deduction Slight loss through precipitation with the salts and the
tartar to the lees.
Foreign substances:
a sulphurous acid O + Changes into sulphuric arid.
natural up to legal
limit
b calcium Increased when the must is alkalized with carbonate of chalk.
Gas in solution:
a carbonic Results from fermentation. Particularly important in spar­
kling wines.
6 hydrogen sulfid
e oxygenic Important for the preservation of the wine, that it may oxidize
slowly.
Explanation of signs: + means barely present.
0 means total absence.
* From "Le Vin" by Ch. Schmuts. Translated from the French by the author.
 378 APPENDIX

II. VARIETY OP PRODUCTS WHICH MAY BE INVOLVED

Measured
Matter ingrammesper litre Notes on transformations
Must Wine

A. SUGARS AND ALCOHOLS

Sugars:
a glucose 75-100 <10 Produce ethyl alcohol and other products.
b fructose 75-150 10 Fermentable.
c saccharose traces traces
d pentoses traces traces Unfementable sugars formed from the gums and pectines.
e mosite traces traces
Alcohols:
a monoalcohols:
methyl 0 traces Minute quantities formed by fermentation.
ethyl 0 7% to 15%
propyl 0 traces
butyl 0 traces Result from fermentation.
amyl 0 traces
hexyl 0 traces
heptyl 0 traces
higher alcohols 0 traces Produced by the empyreumatical oils.
6 dialcohols:
ethyllic glycols 0 traces Produced by certain yeasts of fermentation.
c trialcohols:
glycerine 0 traces Produced during fermentation of a particular alochol.
d polyalcohol:
mannite 0 0 to 3 To be found in certain sick wines said to be mannités
B. ORGANIC ACIDS AND ETHER-SALTS
Acids:
To be found in wines which have turned to vinegar due to
a acetic 0 traces to 2 oxidation and the action of the mycoderma aceti.
Fermentation of tartar produces these acids in quantity.
6 proprionic 0
It may be free or it may be present in the form of potassium
c butyric 0 traces to 0.5 or calcium salts; it is precipitated to form the lees with
the bitartrates.
d tartaric 0.5 to 5 0 to 1 Transformed into lactic acid by the action of fermentation.
e malic 0.5 to 1 traces Results from the malic acid.
f lactic 0 traces To be found in wines made from unripe grapes.
g succinic 0 0.5 to 1 In certain sick wines it is present in quantity.
Superior acids:
h capyroic
i caprylic Properties of certain old wines resulting from a special de­
j oenanthylic 0 traces velopment of the glycerine during fermentation.
k lauric
l salicylic traces
Ether-salts
Ethylic acids:
a acetic
b proprionic
e butyric Combine to give the wine itsflavorand bouquet.
d caprylic
e pelargonic
f laurie
g oenanthylic Usually found in the lees.
h etheracetylacetic Product of certain ferments.

C. OTHER ORGANIC SUBSTANCES

Gums + + Precipitated by the alcohols during fermentation.
Acetaldehyde 0 + Product of a poor oxidation of the alcohol.
Colonng matters:
a chlorophyl + + Over-ripe grapes produce it in quantity.
b oenocyanin + + To be found only in red wines.
Peptones + +
Aurides + +
Combinations of mineral acids + +
Organic bases (trimethylamin) 0 +
Enzymes:
a invertase + +
b oxydase + +
Fat Sickness. Wines poor in tannin will become viscous.
THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF MUST AND LIGHT BEVERAGE WINE 379

Measured
Matter in grammes par litre Notes on transformations
Must Wine

D. MINERAL SUBSTANCES
Total ash About 10% of the total by extracts.
a Basic metallic oxides of: 3 to 4 2 to 3
Potassium (K,0) + + Mostly precipated in the cream of tartar deposit.
Sodium (Na.O) + + Invariable.
Calcium (CaO) + + Diminishes during fermentation by precipitation.
Increases through de-acidification.
Magnesium (MgO) + + Is precipitated with the coloring matter and with the phos­
phates in wines that have the caisse sickness.
Iron (FeO andFe203 + + Given off by the acids in the must and in wine.
Aluminium(Al203) + +
Manganese (MnO)
Copper (Cu0)
+ + Minute amounts find their way into the must and wine as a
traces traces
result of spraying the vines with copper sulphate used to
protect them against various diseases, notably the oidium.
Zinc (ZnO) traces traces
Lead (PbO) traces traces
Tin (SnO) traces traces
Arsenic(As20s traces traces
Anhydrids of acids:
Carbonic (CO2)
Phosphoric(P20s)
0+
Chlorin (CI)
+ +
Silicic (Si 02)
+ + Invariable.
Boric(B203 + + Invariable.
Sulphuric (SO3) traces traces
+ + Comes from the copper sulphate spraying of the vines and the
oxidation of sulphur anhydride during the disinfection of
the casks.

Appendix E

Aphorisms of Brillat-Savarin

T h e world would have been nothing if it were not for life; and all who live, eat.

Animals feed, man eats; only a man of culture knows how to dine.

Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are.

T h e pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, conditions, countries, and times; it
accompanies all other joys and remains the last to console us for the loss of them.

Good living is an act of our judgment by which we show preference for those things
that are agreeable to the taste over those that d o not have this quality.

T h e discovery of a new dish is more beneficial to humanity than the discovery of a

new star.

T h e dyspeptic and the drunkard d o not know how to eat or drink.

T h e order of drinking is from the mildest to the fuller-bodied, and to the richest in
bouquet.
380 APPENDIX
Punctuality is the most important quality of the cook, and it should also be that of
the guests.

T o wait too long for a tardy guest denotes a lack of consideration for those w h o are
present.

He who invites his friends and then neglects to give his personal attention to the
food served to them, does not deserve to have friends.

T h e hostess should always see to it that the coffee is excellent, and the host that the
liqueurs are of first quality.

When we invite someone, we make ourselves responsible for his happiness while he
is under our roof.

Appendix F

The Great Clarets of Bordeaux

OFFICIAL CLASSIFICATION OF 1855

FIRST GROWTHS
Château Parish Château Parish
Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac Latour Pauillac
Margaux Margaux Haut-Brion * Pessac

SECOND GROWTHS

Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac Lascombes Margaux

Rausan-Ségla Margaux Brane-Cantenac Cantenac
Rauzan-Gassies Margaux Pichon-Longueville,
Léoville-Lascases St.-Julien Baron de Pichon Pauillac
Léoville-Poyferré St.-Julien Pichon-Longueville,
Léoville-Barton St.-Julien Ctesse. de Lalande Pauillac
Durfort-Vivens Margaux Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien
Gruaud-Larose-Sarget f St.-Julien Cos-d'Estournel St.-Estèphe
Gruaud-Larose-Faure St.-Julien Montrose St.-Estèphe

THIRD GROWTHS

Kirwan Cantenac Cantenac-Brown Cantenac

d'Issan Cantenac Palmer Cantenac
Lagrange St.-Julien La Lagune Ludon
Langoa-Barton St.-Julien Desmirail Margaux
Giscours Labarde Calon-Ségur St.-Estèphe
Malescot-St. Exupery Margaux Ferrière Margaux
Boyd-Cantenac Margaux Marquis d'Alesme-Becker Margaux
• Haut-Brion, in the Parish of Pessac, Graves, the o n e wine outside the Medoc,
included.
t In 1935, M . Cordier, owner o f Gruaud-Larose-Sarget, purchased Château Gruaud-
Larose-Faure. H e has combined the two vineyards and beginning with the 1936 vintage
the wine o f these vineyards will be shipped under the simple name of Gruaud-Larose.
 THE GREAT CLARETS OF BORDEAUX 381
FOURTH GROWTHS

Château Parish Château Parish

Saint-Pierre St.-Julien La Tour-Carnet St.-Laurent
Talbot St.-Julien Lafon-Rochet St.-Estèphe
Branaire-Duluc-Ducru St.-Julien Beychevelle St.-Julien
Duhart-Milon Pauillac Cantenac-Prieuré Cantenac
Pouget Cantenac Marquis de Terme Margaux

FIFTH GROWTHS

Pontet-Canet Pauillac Lynch-Bages Pauillac

Batailley Pauillac Lynch-Moussas Pauillac
Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac Dauzac Labarde
Grand-Puy-Ducasse Pauillac Mouton-d'Armailhacq Pauillac
du Tertre Arsac Cos-Labory St.-Estèphe
Haut-Bages-Libéral Pauillac Clerc-Milon Pauillac
Pédesclaux Pauillac Cantemerle Macau
Belgrave St.-Laurent Croizet-Bages Pauillac
Camensac St.-Laurent

The Great Sauternes of Bordeaux

OFFICIAL CLASSIFICATION OF 1855
GRAND FIRST CROWTH SECOND GROWTHS

Château Parish Château Parish

Yquem Sauternes Myrat Barsac
Doisy-Daëne Barsac
FIRST GROWTHS
Doisy-Dubroca Barsac
La T o u r Blanche Bommes Doisy-Védrines Barsac
Lafaurie-Peyraguey Bommes d'Arche Sauternes
Clos Haut-Peyraguey Bommes Filhot Sauternes
Rayne-Vigneau Bommes Broustet Barsac
Suduiraut Preignac Nairac Barsac
Coutet Barsac Caillou Barsac
Climens Barsac Suau Barsac
Guiraud Sauternes de Malle Preignac
Rieussec Fargues Romer Preignac
Rabaud-Promis Bommes Lamothe Sauternes
Sigalas-Rabaud Bommes

Burgundy
LIST OF T H E PRINCIPAL VINEYARDS OF T H E C O T E D ' O R
including those growths most likely to be found on our market, under their own name.

CÔTE DE DIJON
Parish Growth Parish Growth
Fixey Les Arvelets Fixin Le Chapitre
Fixin Clos de la Perrière Fixin Les Hervelets
382 APPENDIX
CÔTE DE NUITS
Parish Growth Parish Growth
Gevrey- Le Chambertin Flagey-Échezeaux Les Grands Échezeaux
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Échezeaux-du-
Charmes-Chambertin Dessus
Le Latricières Les Clos St. Denis
Aux Combottes
Saint Jacques Vosne-Romanée La Romanée Conti
Les Varoilles La Romanée
La Chapelle La Romanée Saint
Les Mazis-Hauts Vivent
Les Ruchottes Les Richebourg
La Tâche
Morey Clos de Tart Les Veroilles-ou-
Clos des Lambrays Richebourg
Clos de la R o c h e Les Malconsorts
Clos St. Denis Les Gaudichots
Les Suchots
Chambolle- Les Bonnes Mares
Musigny Le Musigny
Le Petit Musigny
Les Amoureuses
Les Charmes Nuits-Saint- Les Saint-Georges
Vougeot Le Clos de Vougeot Georges Les Vaucrains
La Vigne-Blanche Les Cailles
(White Clos de Les Poirets
Vougeot) Aux Cras
Les Petits Vougeots A u x Murgers
CÔTE DE BEAUNE
Aloxe-Corton Le Corton Beaune Les Avaux
Clos du Roi (continued) Les Cent Vignes
Les Bressandes Les Sizies
Les Renards Les Teurons
Les Pongets ATEcu
Les Perrières Clos du R o i
En Charlemagne (Best Les Perrières
known for white
wine) Pommard Les Rugiens
Pernand Ile des Vergelesses Les Epenots
Les Basses-Vergelesses Le Clos Blanc
Les Petits Epenots
Savigny-les Beaune Les Vergelesses Les Pézerolles
Les Marconnets Les Argillières
Les Jarrons Clos de la Commareine
Les Lavières
Beaune Les Fèves Volnay Les Caillerets
Les Grèves Les Fremiets
Clos des Marconnets Les Champans
Les Bressandes Les Angles
Les Cras
L e Clos de la Mousse Meursault Santenots du Milieu
L e Clos des Mouches —Red Wines Les Cras
Les Champs-Pimonts Les Pelures
Les Aigrots Les Santenots
 BURGUNDY 383
CÔTE DE BEAUNE (continued)
Parish Growth Parish Growth
Meursault Les Perrières Puligny- Le Bâtard-Montrachet
(continued) Les Genevrières Montrachet Les Combettes
—White Wines Les Charmes-Dessus —White Wines La Pucelle
La Goutte d'Or (continued)

Chassagne- Clos Saint Jean

Puligny- Le Cailleret Montrachet La Boudriotte
Montrachet Les Pucelles —Red Wines
—Red Wines Le Clavaillon
—White Wines Le Montrachet
Bâtard-Montrachet
—White Wines Le Montrachet
Le Chevalier- Santenay
Montrachet —Red Wine Les Gravi6res
LEADING GROWTHS OF CHABLIS
Valmur Pointe des Preuses Montée de Tonnerre
Vaudésir Les Vaulorents Les Chapelots
Les Grenouilles Point de Bougros Fourchaume
Les Clos Les Monts de Milieu Pied d'Aloue
Blanchots

Germany
List of the principal vineyards producing quality wines in the Rhine (Hocks)
Moselle and Lower Franconia (Steinwein) wine regions.

Hocks
RHEÏNGAU
Rüdesheimer Schlossberg Mittelheimer Neuberg Eltviller Langenstück
Rüdesheimer Burgweg Oestricher Lehnchen Rauenthaler Kesselring
Rüdesheimer Roseneck Oestricher Klostergarten Rauenthaler Rothenberg
Rüdesheimer Zollhaus Oestricher Magdalenen- Hochheimer Daubhaus
Rüdesheimer Lay garten Hochheimer Domdechaney
Rüdesheimer Hinterhaus Hattenheimer Engelmanns- Hochheimer Kirchenstück
Rüdesheimer Klosterkiesel berg Hochheimer Hölle
Geisenheimer Rotenberg HattenheimerNussbrunnen Münsterer Kapellenberg
Geisenheimer Morschberg Steinberger Laubenheimer Hörnchen
Schloss Johannisberg Hallgartener Hendelberg Kreuznacher Kronenberg
Johannisberger Ernte- Hallgartener Schönhell Munster-am-Steiner
bringer Schloss Reinhardshausen Rotenfels
Johannisberger Hölle Erbacher Markobrunn Norheimer Hinterfels
Winkeler Dachsberg Erbacher Brühl Schloss Böckenheimer
Winkeler Hasensprung Eltviller Sonnenberg Kupfergrube
Schloss Vollrads Eltviller Taubenberg

RHEINHESSEN
Büdesheimer Scharlachberg Nackenheimer Rotenberg Niersteiner Glöck
Büdesheimer Steinkautweg Niersteiner Aufiangen Niersteiner Domtal
Binger Scharlachberg Niersteiner Pettental Niersteiner Hipping
Binger Eiselberg Niersteiner Rehbach Niersteiiier Hciligenbaum
384 APPENDIX
RHEINHESSEN (continued)
Niersteiner Hölle Oppenheimer Steig Dienheimer Krötten-
Oppenheimer Sackträger Ober-Ingelheimer Salzborn brunnen
Oppenheimer Goldberg Laubenheimer Seckergrund Dienheimer Langweg
Oppenheimer Krotten- Liebfrauenstift-
brunnen Laubenheimer H.tz Kirchenstück
Oppenheimer Schlossberg Bodenheimer Neuberg Liebfrauenstift-
Oppenheimer Kreuz Bodenheimer Kahlenberg Klostergarten

RHEINPFALZ
Königsbacher Reiterpfad Deidesheimer Leinhölle Forster Jesuitengarten
Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Deidesheimer Kieselberg Forster Kirchenstück
Ruppertsberger Hofstück Deidesheimer Hahnenböhl Dürkheimer Spielberg

Moselle Wines
SAAR VALLEY WINES
Saarburger Schlossberg Wiltinger Scharzhofberg Canzemer Altenberg
Saarburger Leyenkaul Wiltinger Scharzberg Canzemer Kelterhaus
Ockfener Bockstein Wiltinger Braune Kupp Wawerner Herrenberg
Ockfener Geisberg Wiltinger Schlangengraben Wawerner Goldberg

RUWER VALLEY WINES

Grünhäuser Maximin- Eitelsbacher Rothenberg Caseler Hitzlay
Grünhäuser Avelsbacher Herrenberg Caseler Dominikanerberg
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhof- Caseler Taubenberg
berg

MOSELLE VALLEY WINES

Trittenheimer Laurentius- Zeltinger Schlossberg Erdener Herzlay
berg Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Erdener Herrenberg
NeumagenerRosengärtchen Brauneberger Juffer Kröver Stephansberg
Dhroner Hofberg Brauneberger Falkenberg Trabener Kräuterhaus
Dhroner Häs'chen Brauneberger Bürgerslay Enkircher Steffensberg
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Bernkasteler Doktor Enkircher Steffensberg
Piesporter Lay Bernkasteler Lay Kreuzpfad
Piesporter Taubengarten Bernkasteler Badstube Geirslayer Simonsberg
Graacher Münzlay Bernkasteler Schlossberg Geirslayer Ohligsberg
Graacher Domprobst Bernkasteler Rosenberg Geirslayer Sonnseite
Graacher Himmelreich Urziger Würzgarten Geirslayer Neuberg
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Erdener Treppchen Geirslayer Adolphstein
Zeltinger Rotlay

Steinwein
Homburger Kallmuth Randersackerer Lämmer- Casteller Kirchberg
Würzberger Stein berg F.schendorfer L u m p
Würzburger Innere Leiste Randersackerer Marsberg Eschendorfer Hengstberg
Würzburger Rossberg Randersackerer Teufel- Eschendorfer Fürstenberg
Würzburger Harfe skeller Schweinfurter Mainleite
Würzburger Abtsleite Casteller Schlossberg Schweinfurter Grund
Würzburger Neuberg
 Appendix G

Wine and Spirit Cask Standards,

with Litre Equivalents
Approx. Approx.
Gallons Litres
Pipe of Port, Tarragona or Lisbon 522.37
Pipe of Madeira 110 416.38
Butt of Sherry 132 500.00
Hogshead of Sherry 66 250.00
Quarter-cask Sherry 33 125.00
Octave Sherry 16.5 62.50
Tonneau-Bordeaux (4 barriques) . 238 900.00
Barrique-Bordalais 59 225.00
Pièce-Burgundy 60 228.00
Queue-Burgundy (2 pièces) 120 456.00
Hogshead-Cognac 71.8 272.00
Puncheon-Rum (varies-average) . . 111.6 422.34

American Equivalents of Foreign Standards

Litre 1.0567 quarts 0 . 2 6 4 1 8 gallons
Quart 0.9463 litres
Gallon 4 quarts 3-7853 litres
Hectolitre 1 0 0 litres 2 6 . 4 1 7 8 gallons
9 Litres (average content case of wine) 2 . 3 7 7 6 gallons
Kilogram 2.204 pounds

Bottle Sizes
Split or nip (Wine) 6 ozs.
Half-pint. (Whiskey) 8 ozs.
Half-bottle (Wine) 12 1/2 ozs.
Tenth 12.8 ozs.
Pint (Champagne) 1 3 ozs.
Pint (Whiskey) 1 6 ozs.
Bottle (Wine) 2 4 ozs.
Fifth (All Spirits) 25.6 ozs.
Quart 3 2 ozs.
Quart (Champagne) 2 6 ozs.
Magnum ( 2 Quarts) 5 2 ozs.
Dbl. mag. or jeroboam (4 Quarts) 1 0 4 ozs.
Tappit-hen 128 ozs.—1 gal.
Rehoboam (6 Quarts) 156 ozs.—1.22 gals.
Methuselah (8 Quarts) 2 0 8 ozs.—1.65 gals.
Salmanazar ( 1 2 Quarts) 3 1 2 ozs.—2.44 gals.
Balthazar ( 1 6 Quarts) 4 1 6 ozs.—3.3 gals.
Nebuchadnezzar ( 2 0 Quarts) 5 2 0 ozs.—4.07 gals.
385
 Appendix H
American Producers
(Note: Space limitations prevent making these lists all-inclusive, but an effort has
been made to include the principal firms whose distribution is national.)

WINES
California Georgia
Acampo Winery, A c a m p o Monarch W i n e Company of Georgia,
Almaden Vineyards, Los Gatos Atlanta
Alta Vineyards Company, Fresno Southern W i n e Co. Inc., Cordele
K. Arakelian. Inc., Madera
Avalon W i n e r y , Cucamonga Michigan
Bear Creek Vineyard Association, Lodi Bronte Champagne & W i n e s Co. Inc.,
Beaulieu Vineyard, Rutherford Hartford
Beringer Bros. Inc., St. Helena Chateau W i n e s Corp., Royal Oak
Bisceglia Bros. W i n e Co., Fresno La Salle W i n e & Champagne, Inc., Farm-
California Grape Products Corp., Delano ington
California Growers Wineries, Cutler Universal W i n e & Liquor Co., Detroit
Cameo Vineyards Co., Fresno
Cella Vineyards, Fresno New Jersey
Concannon Vineyard, Livermore H . T . Dewey & Sons Co., Egg Harbor City
Cresta Blanca W i n e Company, Livermore Herman A . K l u x e n Winery, Madison
B. Cribari & Sons, Fresno F. D . Laird & Co., Scobeyville
Cucamonga Pioneer Vineyard Ass'n., Cu­ L. N. Renault & Sons, Inc., Egg H a r b o r
camonga City
D e l R i o W i n e r y , Inc., Lodi John B . Schuster & Son, Egg Harbor City
Di Giorgio W i n e Co., Di Giorgio Paul Von Bosse, Egg H a r b o r City
East-Side W i n e r y , Lodi
Fountaingrove Vineyard, Santa Rosa New York
Fruit Industries, Ltd., San Francisco Brotherhood Corporation, Washingtonville
E. & J. Gallo W i n e r y , Modesto Empire State W i n e Co. Inc., Penn Y a n
Garrett & C o . Inc., Guasti Fredonia Products Co. Inc., Fredonia
Inglenook Vineyard Co., Rutherford Garrett & Co. Inc., Brooklyn & Penn Yan
Italian Swiss Colony, Asti Hudson Valley W i n e Company, Highland
F. Korbel Bros., Inc., Guerneville Mandia Champagne Cellars, Clintondale
Charles Krug W i n e r y , St. Helena Mariani Bros. Inc., New City
Lodi Winery, Inc., Lodi Marlboro Industries, L t d . , Marlboro
Madrone Vineyards, Madrone Monarch W i n e Co. Inc., Brooklyn
Louis M . Martini, St. Helena O l d Monastery Co. Inc., Rheims
Paul Masson, Inc., Saratoga T h e Pleasant Valley W i n e Co., Rheims
Monarch W i n e Co. of California, Fowler D . W . Putnam Co., H a m m o n d s p o r t
M o n t La Salle Vineyards, Napa Rheims Valley W i n e Co. Inc., H a m m o n d s -
Muscat Cooperative W i n e r y Ass'n, Kings- port
burg R o b i n Fils & Cie. Ltd., H a m m o n d s p o r t
Napa Valley Cooperative W i n e r y , St. T h e Taylor W i n e Co., H a m m o n d s p o r t
Helena Urbana W i n e Co. Inc., H a m m o n d s p o r t
Novitiate of Los Gatos, Los Gatos Vineyardists, Inc., Penn Y a n
Padre Vineyard Company, Cucamonga Widner's W i n e Cellars, Inc., Naples
Petri W i n e Company, San Francisco
R o m a W i n e Company, Fresno Ohio
San Martin Vineyards Co., San Martin American Vineyards, Inc., Cleveland
Sonoma County Cooperative Winery, Cohodas Vineyards, Inc., Geneva
Windsor John G. Dorn, Sandusky
W . A . T a y l o r & Co., Hollister & Santa Engels & Krudwig W i n e Co., Sandusky
Rosa Heineman W i n e r y , Put-in-Bay
Tulare W i n e r y , T u l a r e T h e H o m m e l Co., Sandusky
Victor W i n e r y , Victor George F. Long, M i d d l e Bass
W e n t e Bros., Livermore Mantey Vineyards, Venice
W i n e Growers Guild, Lodi Meier's W i n e Cellars, Inc., Sandusky
W o o d b r i d g e Vineyard Ass'n., Lodi M o n A m i Champagne Co., Catawba Island
Russo Wines, Cleveland
August Zisnmer W i n e r y , Cincinnati

386
 AMERICAN PRODUCERS 387
APPLEJACKS

Blue Ridge Distilleries, Inc., Front Royal, Laird & Co., Scobeyville, N. J.
Va. New Jersey Apple Growers, Inc., Matawan,
Distilled Liquors Corp., Lyons, N. Y. N. J.
H o o d River Distillers, Inc., H o o d River,
Ore.

CORDIALS AND LIQUEURS

American Distilling Co., Pekin, 111. John de Kuyper & Son, Inc., (National
Arrow Distilleries, Inc., Detroit, Mich. Distillers subsidiary), Jersey City, N. J.
Ben Burk, Inc., Boston, Mass. Charles Jacquin et Cie., Inc., Philadelphia,
J. Bielzoff Products Co., Chicago, 111. Pa.
Black Prince Distilleries, Inc., Nutley, N. J. L. E. Jung & Wulff Co., Inc., New Orleans,
Erven Lucas Bols, Inc., Englewood, N. J. La.
British American Distillers, Inc., New Leroux & Co. Inc., Philadelphia, Pa.
York, N. Y. Julius Marcus Laboratories (Arrow Dis­
T h e Cloister Co., Chicago, 111. tilleries, Inc., subsidiary)
Cointreau, Inc., Mohawk Liquor Corp., Detroit, Mich.
Destillerie P. Gamier, Inc., Teterboro, Old Quaker Co. (Schenley subsidiary),
N. J. Lawrenceburg, Ind.
Green Mountain Distillery, Inc., Burling­ Popper, Morson Co. Inc., Jersey City, N. J.
ton, Vt. Hiram Walker & Sons, Inc., Peoria, 111.
Joseph-Krieg Fink Co. (Forbidden Fruit)
North Bergen, N. J.

GINS
The American Distilling Co., Pekin, 111. W . & A. Gilbey, Ltd. (National Distillers
Ben Burk, Inc., Boston, Mass. subsidiary), Cincinnati, Ohio
Black Prince Distilleries, Inc., Nutley, G. F. Heublein & Bros., Hartford, Conn.
N. J. John de Kuyper & Son, Inc. (National
British American Distillers, Inc., New Distillers subsidiary), Jersey City, N. J.
York, N. Y. London & Co., Elizabeth, N. J.
Calvert Distillers Corp., Baltimore, Md. New England Distillers, Inc., Clinton,
Century Distilling Co., Peoria, 111.
Mass.
Continental Distilling Corp., Philadelphia,
Park & Tilford Distillers, Inc., New York,
Pa.
N. Y.
Distillers Corp., Ltd., Linden, N. J.
The Fleischmann Distilling Co., Peekskill, Joseph E. Seagram & Sons, Inc., Law­
N. Y. renceburg, Ind.
Joseph S. Finch Co. (Schenley subsidiary), Siboney Distilling Corp., Philadeipnia, Pa.
Schenley, Pa. Hiram Walker & Sons, Inc., Peoria, 111.

PREPARED COCKTAILS
Brand G. F. Heublein & Bro., Inc., Hartford,
Crosse & Blackwell's, Baltimore, Md. Conn.
Hiram Walker, Inc., Peoria, 111.

RUMS
American Distilling Co., Gretna, La. Old Medford Rum Distillery, Inc., Wake­
A. & G. J. Caldwell, Inc., Newburyport, field, Mass.
Mass. Siboney Distilling Corp.. Philadelphia,
Felton & Son, Inc., Boston, Mass. Pa.
New England Distilling Co., Inc., Coving­
ton, Ky.
388 APPENDIX
WHISKIES
Arrow Distilleries, Inc., Peoria, 111. Kinsey Distilling Co., Linfield, Pa.
American Medicinal Spirits Co., Inc. (see Krogman Distilling Co., Inc., Tell City,
National Distillers) Ind.
T h e Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Co., Large Distillery (National Distillers sub­
Dundalk, Md. sidiary), Large, Pa.
Bardstown Distillery, Inc., Bardstown, Ky. Lincoln Inn Distilling Co., Inc. (Seagram
James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, subsidiary), Lawrenceburg, Ind.
Ky. Lynchburg Distillery Co., Lynchburg,
Bedford Distilling Co., Bedford, Ohio Ohio
Bernheim Distilling Co., Inc. (Schenley Merchants Distilling Corp., Terre Haute,
subsidiary), Louisville, Ky. Ind.
A. Smith Bowman, Fairfax County, Va. Mount Vernon Distillery Co. (National
Brown-Forman Distillery Co., Inc., Louis­ Distillers subsidiary), Baltimore, Md.
ville, Ky. National Distillers Products Corp., New
T h e Calvert Distillers Corp., Baltimore, York, N. Y.
Md., Louisville, Ky. Number One Distilling Co. (Schenley
Carstairs Bros. Distilling Co. (Seagram subsidiary), Lawrenceburg, Ind., Alad­
subsidiary), Philadelphia, Pa. din, Pa.
Century Distilling Co., Chicago, 111. Old Crow Distillery (National Distillers
Continental Distilling Corp., Philadelphia, subsidiary), Frankfort, Ky.
Pa. Old Grand Dad Distillery (National Dis­
R. Cummins & Co., Inc., Battle Creek, tillers subsidiary), Louisville, Ky.
Mich. Old Jordan Distillery, Inc., Deatsville, Ky.
Cummins Distilleries Corp., Athertonville, Old Lewis Hunter Distillery Co., Lair,
Ky. Ky.
J. W . Dant Distillery Co., Inc., Dant's Old Taylor Distillery (National Distillers
Station, Ky. subsidiary), Frankfort, Ky.
Dant & Dant of Kentucky, Louisville, Ky. T h e Old Quaker Co. (Schenley subsidi­
Dant & Head Distilling Co., Gethsemane, ary), Lawrenceburg, Ind.
Ky. A. Overholt & Co., Inc. (National Dis­
T h e Daviess County Distilling Co., Inc. tillers subsidiary). Broad Ford, Pa.
(Fleischmann subsidiary), Owensboro, Owings Mills Distillery, Inc., Owings
Ky. Mills, Md.
Geo. A. Dickel Distilling Co. (Schenley Park & Tilford Distillers, Inc., Louis­
subsidiary), Lexington, Ky. ville, Ky.
Jos. S. Finch & C o . (Schenley subsidiary), Pennsylvania Distilling Co., Logansport,
Schenley, Pa. Pa.
Frankfort Distilleries, Inc., Baltimore, Md., James E. Pepper & Co. (Schenley sub­
Louisville, Ky. sidiary), Lexington, Ky.
T h e Gibson Distilling Co., Aladdin, Pa. Penn-Maryland Corp. (National Distillers
Glencoe Distillery Co., Louisville, Ky. subsidiary), Peoria, 111.
Glenmore Distilleries Co., Inc., Owens­ T h e H. E. Pogue Distillery Co., Mays-
boro, Ky. ville, Ky.
Gooderham & Worts (Hiram Walker sub­ Readville Distilleries, Inc., Readville,
sidiary), Detroit, Mich. Mass.
Hamburger Distillery, Inc., South Browns­ Records & Goldsborough, Inc., Baltimore,
ville, Pa. Md.
Hoffman Distilling Co., Lawrenceburg, Ripy Bros. Distillers, Inc., Lawrenceburg,
Ky. Ky.
Hunter Baltimore Rye Distillery, Inc., Ruffsdale Distilling Co., Inc., Ruffsdale,
Gwynnbrook, Md. Pa.
James Distillery, Inc., Baltimore, Md. T . W . Samuels Distillery, Inc., Deatsville,
Julius Kessler Distilling Co., Inc. (Seagram Ky.
subsidiary), Lawrenceburg, Ind. Schenley Products Co., New York, N. Y.
 AMERICAN PRODUCERS 389

WHISKIES (continued)
Joseph E. Seagram & Sons, Inc., Law- James Walsh & Co., Inc., Lawrenceburg,
renceburg, Ind., Louisville, Ky. Ind.
Taylor & Williams Distilleries, Louisville, Waterfill & Frazier Distillery Co., An-
Ky. chorage, Ky.
T h e K. Taylor Distilling Co., Inc., Frank- John A. Wathen Distillery Co., Lebanon,
fort, Ky. Ky.
United Distillers (of America) Ltd., Bal- Frank L. Wight Distilling Co., Loreley,
timore, Md. Md.
Hiram Walker & Sons, Inc., Peoria, 111. Wilson Distilling Co., Inc., Bristol, Pa.

VODKAS

Dubouchett & Co. Inc., Hiram Walker, Inc.,

Samovar Hiram Walker
Pierre Smirnoff & Fils., Inc., Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc.,
Smirnoff Romanoff

Foreign Shippers and Their American Agents

ALSATIAN (FRENCH RHINE) WINE

Domaines Dopff, Riquewihr Carillon Importers Ltd., New York

F. E. Hugel et Fils, Riquewihr Dreyfus Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
Louis Irion, Riquewihr Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
Ed. Kressmann & Co., Riquewihr Seggerman Slocum, Inc., New York
Sichel 8c Fils Freres, Bordeaux H. Sichel Sons, Inc., New York
Adolph Willm, Barr Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York

APERITIFS

Lillet Frères, Podensac, France Dreyfus Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
T h e St. Raphael Co., Paris, France Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
St. Raphael-Appetizer
J. & S. Violet Frères, Thuir, France T h e House of Burgundy, Inc., New York
Byrrh

AQUAVITS AND PUNCHES

Carlshamn's Swedish Punsch, Sweden Standard Wine & Liquor Co. Inc., New
De Danske Spritfabrikker, Denmark York
Aktieselskabet Danisco
Aalberg Akvavit Danisco Inc., New York
Vinmonopolet A / S , Norway
Loiten's Aquavit Asche-Bander Corp., New York
Lysholm's Aquavit
390 APPENDIX

BITTERS
C. W . Abbott & Co., Baltimore, Md. C. W . Abbott & Co., Baltimore, Md.
Abbott's Aged Bitters
Campari, Export, Import, Milan, Italy, French Italian Wine Co., New York
Campari
Field, Son & Co., London, England Park & Tilford Import Co., New York
Orange
Fratelli Branca S.A., Milan, Italy Fratelli Branca & Co. Inc., New York
& New York, N. York
Fernet Branca
Dr. J. G. B. Siegert & Sons, Port of Spain, Angostura-Wuppermann Co., New York
Trinidad, B.W.I.
A. M. & J. Solari, Ltd., New Orleans Solari & Co., New Orleans, La.
Peychaud's
J. Zwack & Co., Budapest, Hungary Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York
Zwackunicum

BORDEAUX WINES
Barton & Guestier Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
H. & O. Beyerman C. F. Eccardt & Co., New York
A. Bichet & Cie. R . U. Delapenha & Co. Inc., New York
Bouchard Pere & Fils Vintage Wines Inc., New York
J. Calvet & Cie. National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
F. Chauvenet Carillon Importers Ltd., New York
Cruse & Fils Frères T h e Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., "New York
A. De Luze & Fils Seggerman Slocum Inc., New York
Louis Eschenauer Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Nath'l Johnston & Fils Austin, Nichols & Co. Inc., New York
T . Jouvet & Cie. Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York
Ed. Kressman & Co. Seggerman Slocum Corp., New York
Sichel & Fils Frères H. Sichel Sons, Inc., New York
Schroeder & De Constans Schenley Import Corp., New York

BRANDIES—COGNAC
Bisquit, Dubouché & Co., Jarnac Munson G. Shaw Co. Inc., New York
Courvoisier, Ltd., Jarnac W . A. Taylor & Co., New York
E. Cusenier & Cie., Cognac Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
J. Denis, Henry Mounié & Co., Cognac Carillon Importers Ltd., New York
Gautier Frères, Aigre Henry Kelly Imp. & Dist. Co. Inc., New
York
Jas. Hennessey & Co., Cognac Schieffelin & Co., New York
Thos. Hine & Co., Jarnac "21" Brands Inc., New York
Martell & Co., Cognac Park & Tilford Import Corp., New York
J. C. Monnet & Co., Cognac National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
Otard Dupuy & Co., Cognac Canada Dry Ginger Ale, Inc., New York
J. Prunier & Co., Cognac Henry Kelly Imp. & Dist. Co. Inc., New
York
Maison Remy Martin & Co., S.A., Cognac Renfield Importers Ltd., New York
Jules Robin & Co., Cognac Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York

BRANDIES—ARMAGNAC
"Chatelaine" Distillerie De L'Adour, Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Tarbes
Marquis de Coussade, Condom Part Benziger & Co. Inc., New York
Marquis de Montesquiou, Condom Foreign Vintages Inc., New York
 FOREIGN SHIPPERS AND T H E I R AMERICAN AGENTS 391

BRANDIES—SPANISH
Agustin Blazquez Vintage Wines, Inc., N e w York
Pedro Doraecq y Cia., Jerez Canada Dry Ginger A l e Inc., N e w York
Duff Gordon, Jerez Munson G. Shaw C o . Inc., N e w York
Gonzalez, Byass & Co. Ltd., Jerez Browne Vintners Co. Inc., N e w York
Fernando A . de Terry Briones & Company, Inc., N e w York

OTHER BRANDIES
Asbach Uralt (German) Foreign Vintages, Inc., N e w York
S. B. Metaxas (Greek) Austin, Nichols & Co., Inc., N e w York

BURGUNDIES AND CHABLIS

Barton & Guestier, Bordeaux Browne Vintners C o . Inc., N e w York
A. Bichot & Cie., Beaune R . W . Delapenha & Co. Inc., N e w York
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune Vintage W i n e s Inc., N e w York
J. Calvet & Co., Beaune National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
Chanson Pere & Fils, Beaune Julius W i l e Sons & C o . Inc., N e w York
F. Chauvenet, Nuits St. Georges Carillon Importers Ltd., N e w York
Coron Pere et Fils, Beaune Park, Benziger & C o . Inc., N e w York
Cruse & Fils Frères, Bordeaux T h e Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., N e w York
Fortier-Picard, Beaune R . U. Delapenha & Co. Inc., N e w York
Léon Grivelet-Cusset, Nuits St. Georges Guffanti & Maubert, Ltd., N e w York
Louis Latour, Beaune Frederick W i l d m a n & Sons, N e w York
J. Mommessin & Cie., Maçon Austin, Nichols & Co. Inc., N e w York
Poulet Pere & Fils, A b b a y e de St. Margin C. F. Eccardt & Co., N e w York
Jules Régnier & Co., D i j o n Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., N e w York
Sichel & Fils Frères, Beaune H . Sichel & Sons, Inc., N e w York
Vercherre & Co., Beaune Foreign Vintages Inc., N e w York

CHAMPAGNES
J. Bollinger, A y Julius W i l e Sons & C o . Inc., N e w York
Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, Reims T h e Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., N e w York
Delbeck & Co., Reims James M . M c C u n n & Co. Inc., N e w York
Giesler & Co., Avize R . W . Delapenha & Co. Inc., N e w York
George Goulet, Reims Monsieur Henry W i n e s Ltd., N e w York
Heidsieck & Co., Reims Park & T i l f o r d I m p o r t Corp., N e w York
Charles Heidsieck, Reims Austin, Nichols fe Co. Inc., N e w York
Ernest Irroy & C o . , Reims Dreyfus, Ashby & C o . Inc., N e w York
Krug fe Co., R e i m s Seggerman Slocum, Inc., N e w York
Kunkelmann et Cie., Reims Renfield Importers, Ltd., N e w York
Piper-Heidsieck
Lanson Pere & Fils, Reims National Distillers Products Corp., N e w
York
Moët & Chandon, Epernay Schieffelin & Co., N e w York
G. H . M u m m & Co., Reims Browne Vintners C o . Inc., N e w York
Perrier-Jouet, Epernay Frederick W i l d m a n & Sons, N e w York
Pol Roger & Co., Epernay W . A . T a y l o r 8c C o m p a n y , N e w York
Pommery & Greno, Reims Munson G . Shaw C o . Inc., N e w York
Louis Roedérer, Reims "21" Brands Inc., N e w York
Taittinger Mailly & Cia., Reims Kobrand Corporation, N e w York

CHERRY WINES
I. D . Beauvais, Denmark Briones & Company, Inc., N e w York
Kirnova
Mig. D e Belueve, N.V., H o l l a n d Renfield Importers Ltd., N e w York
J. J. Jacobsen C o . , Denmark Browne Vintners C o . Inc., N e w York
Kijafa
E. Troels-Smith, Denmark Julius W i l e Sons & C o . Inc., N e w York
Elsinore
392 APPENDIX

GINS—ENGLISH
Booth's Distilleries Ltd., London Park & Tilford Import Corp., New York
James Burrough, Ltd., London Kobrand Corp., New York
Coates & Co., Plymouth Munson G. Shaw Co. Inc., New York
Hill, Thomson & Co. Ltd., Edinburgh Henry Kelly Importing & Dist. Co. Inc.,
Old Gentry New York
J. & W . Nicholson & Co. Ltd., London W . A. Taylor & Company, New York
Seager, Evans & Co. Ltd., London Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., New York

GENEVA GINS—HOLLAND
Erven Lucas Bols, Amsterdam Bols Distributing Co. Inc., New York

HOCKS & MOSELLES—GERMANY

Anheuser & Fehrs, Kreuznach The Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., New York
Julius Kayser & Co. Traben-Trarbach Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
J. Langenbach & Sohne, Worms National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
M. Meyer, Rudesheim Austin, Nichols & Co., Inc., New York
Scholl & Hillebrand Vintage Wines Inc., New York
Schulz & Wagner, Frankfort Am Main Briones & Company Inc., New York
H. Sichel Sohne, Mainz H. Sichel Sons, Inc., New York
P. J. Valckenberg, Worms Kobrand Corporation, New York
Wilh, Wasum, Bacharach R. U. Delapenha & Co. Inc., New York

HUNGARIAN WINES
S. W. Flegmann & Son, Tokaj-Abaujszanto Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York
Hungarian State Wine Cellars, Budafok Vintage Wines, Inc., New York

ITALIAN WINES
L. Ajmar & Co., Nizza Monferato Fontana Hollywood Corp., New York
Marchesi Lodovico e Piero Antinori, Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Florence
Francesco Bertolli, S.A., Lucia Schenley Import Corp., New York
Luigi Bigi et Figlio, S.A., Orvieto Vintage Wines, Inc., New York
Fratelli Bolla, Verona Fontana Hollywood Corp., New York
Luigi Bosca & Figli, Canelli Austin, Nichols & Co. Inc., New York
Luigi Calissano & Figli, S.A., Alba Vintage Wines, Inc., New York
Francesco Cinzano & Co., Turin Cinzano Inc., New York
Giuseppe Contratto, Canelli French Italian Wine Co., New York
Florio & Co., Marsala Banfi Products Corp., New York
Fratelli Gancia & Co., Canelli (Asti) A. Guirlan & Bros., New York & San
Francisco
E. Martinazi & Co., S.A., Turin Antolini & Co., New York
Martini & Rossi, S.A., Turin Renfield Importers Ltd., New York
Fratelli Mazziotti, Bolsena John Aquino Sons Inc., New York
Mirafiore, S.A., Canelli C. Daniele & Co. Inc., New York
Orlando & Co., S.R.I., Florence Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
Marchese Adolfo Patrizi, Capri Fontana Hollywood Corp., New York
Carlo Pellegrino, Marsala French Italian Wine Co., New York
Cantini Pizzetti, Frascati C. Daniele & Co. Inc., New York
Barone Ricasole (Brolio) Florence Fontana Hollywood Corp., New York
Robba Rocco, Canelli John Aquino Sons Inc., New York
I. L. Ruffino, Pontassiere I. F. Roncallo, Inc., New York
Mario Ruggeri, Frascati John Aquino Sons Inc., New York
 FOREIGN SHIPPERS AND THEIR AMERICAN AGENTS 393

ITALIAN WINES (CONTINUED)

Duca di Salaparuta, Palermo, Sicily Fontana Hollywood Corp., New York

Banfi Products Corp., New York
Pascuale Scala, Naples Cinzano Inc., New York
Ca. G. Simoncini, Orvieto John Aquino & Son, Inc., New York
Banfi Products Corp., New York
Pellegro Suali, Castellino Cinzano Inc., New York
Petrangeli Urbani & C , Orvieto Tempesta Import Co., New York

LIQUEURS

Bénédictine, S.A. France Julius Wile Sons fe Co. Inc., New York
Erven Lucas Bols, Holland Bols Distributing Co. Inc., New York
F. Cazanove, France Vintage Wines, Inc., New York
Cie Française de la Grande Chartreuse. Schieffelin & Co., New York
Voiron-Isère, France
Chartreuse
E. Cusenier Fils Ainé & Cie., France Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
Ditta Giuseppe Alberti, Italy Canada Dry Ginger Ale, Inc., New York
Strega
Dolfi Grande Distillerie Strasbourgeoise, National Distillers Products Corp., New
France York
Drambuie Liqueur Co. Ltd., Scotland W . A. Taylor & Company, New York
Francisco Drioli, Italy Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
Distillerie P. Gamier, S.A., France Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Get Frères, France Seggerman Slocum, Inc., New York
Peter F. Heering, Denmark Schenley Import Corp., New York
G. A. Jourde, France T h e Heublein Sales Co. Inc., New York
Cordial-Medoc
Marie Brizard, France Schenley Import Corporation, New York
Ets. Marnier-Lapostolle, France Carillon Importers Ltd., New York
Picon & Co. Levallois-Perret, France Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
Rocher Freres, France Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
Simon Ainé, France Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York
J. Zwack & Co., Hungary Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York

MADEIRA WINES

Berry Bros. & Co., London T h e Buckingham Corp., New York

Cossart, Gordon & Co., Funchal Munson G. Shaw Co. Inc., New York
Leacock & Co. Ltd., Funchal Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Sandeman Sons Co., Funchal W . A . Taylor & Company, New York
Welsh Bros. Lda., Funchal Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York

PORT WINES

Berry Bros., & Rudd, Ltd., London, T h e Buckingham Corporation, New York
England
Richard Brooks & Co., London, England Kraus Bros. & Co. Inc., New York
Cockburn, Smithes & Cia. Ltda., Oporto Munson G. Shaw & Co. Inc., New York
Feurheerd Bros. & Co. Ltd., Oporto T h e Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., New York
Offley Forrester Ltd., Villa Nova de Gaya Vintage Wines, Inc., New York
John Harvey & Sons, Ltd., London, Eng- Park & Tilford Import Corp., New York
land
Marques del Merito, Oporto National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
Robertson Bros. & Co. Lda., Oporto Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Sandeman & Co., Oporto W . A. Taylor Sc. Company, New York
Silva & Cosens, Oporto T h e Heublein Sales Co. Inc., New York
394 APPENDIX

ROSÉ WINES

Chateau De Selle, Antibes T h e House of Burgundy, New York

Chateau De Selle
Baron de Rasque de Laval, Les Arcs-Sur- Julius Wile Sons & Co., Inc., New York
Argens
Chateau Ste-Roseline
Ed. Kressman 8c Co., Bordeaux Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
Thalrosé

RUMS (BRITISH WEST INDIES)

Berry Bros., Jamaica T h e Buckingham Corp., New York

Berry's
Booker Bros., McConnell & Co., Demerara Austin, Nichols & Co. Inc., New York
Booker's
J. N. Goddard & Sons, Barbados T h e Paddington Corp., New York
Goddard
Gosling Bros., Barbados National Distillers Corp., New York
Hudson's Bay Co., Jamaica 8c Demerara Hudson's Bay Co. Inc., New York
Lemon Hart & Son, Jamaica & Demerara Julius Wile Sons & Co. Inc., New York
Lemon Hart
J. E. Lightbourn 8c Co., Barbados " 2 1 " Brands., New York
Lightboum's Selected
Capt. Morgan Rum Distillers Ltd., Jamaica Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
Captain Morgan
Fred L. Myers & Son, Jamaica R. U. Delapenha & Co. Inc., New York
Planter's Punch Bellows & Co. Inc., New York
Portal, Dingwall 8c Norris, Demerara
Dr. J. G. B. Siegert 8c Sons, Trinidad Foreign Vintages, Inc., New York
Siegert's Bouquet
Henry White &c Co., Jamaica National Distillers Products Corp., New
Red Heart York
J. Wray & Nephews, Jamaica Schieffelin 8c Co., New York
Dagger Punch

RUMS—CUBA

Jose Arechabala, S.A., Park, Benziger & Co. Inc., New York
Havana Club
Campania Ron Bacardi Bacardi Imports, Inc., New York
Bacardi

RUMS—MARTINIQUE (FRENCH)

Les Fils de P. Bardinet Carillon Importers, Ltd., New York

Negrita
Ernest Lambert 8c Cie., Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Inc., New York
Saint James

RUMS—PUERTO RICO

Bacardi Corp. of America Bacardi Imports, Inc., New York

Bacardi
Bercelo, Marques & Co., Renfield Importers, Ltd., New York
Riondo
Porto Rican American Liguor Co.
Distileria Serralles, Inc.
Boca Chica " 2 1 " Brands, Inc., New York
Puerto Rico Distilling Co., McKesson 8c Robbins, Inc., New York
Ronrico
Distileria Serrales, Inc., Schieffelin & Co., New York
Don "Q"
 FOREIGN SHIPPERS AND THEIR AMERICAN AGENTS 395

RUMS—VIRGIN ISLANDS

A . H . Riise Star L i q u o r Dealers, Inc., N e w York

Old St. Croix
St. Croix Sugar Cane Industries National Distillers Products Corp., N e w
Cruzan York
Virgin Islands Co., W . A . T a y l o r & C o m p a n y , N e w York
Government House

SHERRIES

Berry Bros., L o n d o n , T h e Buckingham Corp., N e w York

John W m . Burdon, Port St. Mary, Spain Kraus Bros. & Co., Inc., N e w York
Cuvillo & Co., Port of St. Mary, Spain Seggerman Slocan, Inc., N e w York
Pedro Domecq y Cia., Jerez, Spain Canada Dry Ginger A l e , Inc., N e w York
Duff Gordon & Co., Port St. Mary, Spain M u n s o n G. Shaw & Co. Inc., N e w York
Florido Hermanos, Santucar, Spain H e n r y Kelly Import. & Dist. C o . Inc., N e w
York
Garvey & Co., Jerez, Spain T h e Jos. Garneau C o . Inc., N e w York
Gonzalez, Byass & Co. Ltd., Jerez Browne Vintners C o . Inc., N e w York
J. Harvey 8c Sons, Ltd., Bristol, England Park & T i l f o r d I m p o r t Corp., N e w York
Marques del Merito, Jerez, Spain National Distillers Products Corp., New
York
M a n u e l Misa, Jerez, Spain, Vintage W i n e s , Inc., N e w York
Palomins & Vergara, Jerez, Spain Renfield Importers, Ltd., N e w York
A . R . Ruiz y H e r m a n o s , Jerez, Spain, R . U. Delapenha & C o . Inc., N e w York
Sandeman & Co., Jerez, Spain W . A . T a y l o r & C o m p a n y , N e w York
W i l l i a m s & H u m b e r t Ltd., Jerez, Spain Julius W i l e Sons fe C o . Inc., N e w York

VERMOUTHS—FRENCH

Gazalis & Prats, Sete Julius W i l e Sons & Co. Inc., N e w York
Noilly Prat & C o . , Marseilles Browne Vintners C o . Inc., N e w York
Nugue-Richard & Cie., Biziers Seggerman Slocum, Inc., N e w York
Nuyens & Co., Bordeaux Vintage W i n e s , Inc., N e w York

VERMOUTHS—ITALIAN

G. B. Carpano, T u r i n French Italian W i n e Co., N e w York

Francisco Cinzano & Cie., S.A., T u r i n Cinzano Inc., N e w York
G. Contratto, Canelli French Italian W i n e Co. N e w York
Freund, Ballor e Cia., T u r i n Julius W i l e Sons & Co. Inc., N e w York
Martini & Rossi, T u r i n Renfield Importers Ltd., N e w York
S. A . Mirafiore, Canelli C . Daniels & C o m p a n y Inc., N e w York
I. L . Ruffino, C a m b i a n o ( T u r i n ) Austin, Nichols & Co. Inc., N e w York
Trinchiero, Brosio, S.A., T u r i n Petrocelli & Segre, Inc., N e w York

WHISKIES—CANADIAN

Shipper
Gooderham & W o r t s , Ltd., T o r o n t o G o o d e r h a m & W o r t s , Ltd., N e w York
G & W Special
Harwood Distillers Agency, Inc., Van­ Seagram Distillers Corp., N e w York
couver
Harwood's
John M a c N a u g h t o n Co. Ltd., Montreal Schenley Import Corp., N e w York
McNaughton's
Montmorency Distillery Ltd., Baupre National Distillers Products Corp., New
Dominion Ten York
Jos. E. Seagram & Sons, Ltd., Waterloo
V.O., "83" and Pedigree Seagram-Distillers Corp., N e w York
H i r a m Walker & Sons, Ltd., Walkerville
V. S. Agent H i r a m W a l k e r & Sons, Inc., Peoria, 111.
396 APPENDIX

WHISKIES—IRISH

John Jamieson 8c Son, Ltd., D u b l i n W . A . T a y l o r 8c Co., N e w York

"Old Bushmill's" Distillery Co., Ltd., Bel­ Quality Importers Inc., N e w York
fast
John Power & Son, Ltd., D u b l i n Canada D r y Ginger A l e Inc., N e w York

WHISKIES—SCOTCH

Geo. Ballantine 8c Son, Ltd., Glasgow "21" Brands Inc., N e w York

Ballantine's
John Begg, Ltd., Glasgow James M c C u n n & C o . Inc., N e w York
John Begg
Arthur Bell 8c C o . Ltd., Perth T h e Heublein Sales Co. Inc., N e w York
Bell's
Berry Bros. & Co., London, England T h e Buckingham Corp., N e w York
Cutty Sark & St. James
J. Buchanan & Co. Ltd., Glasgow T h e Fleischmann Distilling Corp., N e w
Black it White York
Bulloch L a d e 8c Co. Ltd., Glasgow Munson G. Shaw C o . Inc., N e w York
Bulloch Lade
Chivas Bros. L t d . , Aberdeen Chivas Bros. Import Corp., N e w York
Chivas Regal
Peter Dawson, Ltd., Glasgow Julius W i l e Sons & Co. Inc., N e w York
Dawson's
John Dewar 8c Sons, Ltd., Perth Schenley I m p o r t Corp., N e w York
White Label
T h e Distillers Agency Ltd., Edinburgh Sovereign Importers Ltd., N e w York
King George IV
W . & A . Gilbey, Ltd., L o n d o n National Distillers Products Corp., New
Spey-Royal York
John Gillon & C o . Ltd., Glasgow Renfield Importers Ltd., N e w York
King William IV
Wm. Grant & Sons, Ltd., Glasgow Austin, Nichols & C o . Inc., N e w York
Grant's
H a i g & Haig, Ltd., Edinburgh Renfield Importers, Ltd., N e w York
Haig if Haig
J. & R . Harvey 8c Co. Ltd., Park, Benziger & Co. Inc., N e w York
Harvey's
Hedges 8c Butler, Ltd., Glasgow Saccone & Speed ( U S A ) Inc., N e w York
"250"
MacDonald, Greenlees, Ltd., Leith American Distilling Co., N e w York
Sandy MacDonald & Grand Old Parr
M a c D o n a l d & M u i r , Ltd., Leith McKesson & Robbins, Inc., New York
Highland Queen
James Martin & Co. Ltd., Leith McKesson & Robbins, Inc., N e w York
v.v.o.
W m . Sanderson 8c Son, Ltd., Leith Park 8c T i l f o r d Import Corp., N e w York
Vat 69
J. & G. Stewart, Ltd., Edinburgh T h e Jos. Garneau Co. Inc., N e w York
Usher's Green Stripe
Stirling Bonding Co. Ltd., D u m b a r t o n W . A . T a y l o r & Co., N e w York
Old Smuggler
W m . Teacher & Sons, Ltd., Glasgow Schieffelin & Co., N e w York
Highland Cream
T r a i n & Mclntyre, Ltd., Glasgow National Distillers Products Corp., New
Old Angus York
John Robertson 8c Son, L t d . , D u n d e e Kobrand Corp., N e w York
Robertson's
John W a l k e r & Sons, Ltd., Kilmarnock Canada D r y Ginger A l e , Inc., N e w York
Johnnie Walker
 FOREIGN SHIPPERS AND THEIR AMERICAN AGENTS 397

WHISKIES—SCOTCH (CONTINUED)

Weston, Duncan & Co. Ltd., Glasgow National Distillers Corp., New York
Weston's
White Horse Distillers, Ltd., Glasgow Browne Vintners Co. Inc., New York
White Horse ir Mackie's
W m . Whiteley & Co., Leith T h e Paddington Corp., New York
King's Ransom if House of Lords
 Appendix I
Glossary of Terms
(The abbreviations Eng., Fr., Ger., It., Port., Sp., etc. represent the countries of
origin England, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Spain respectively.)

abbocato—(It.) Sweet. Aszu, Aszubor— (Hun.) Sweeter type of

acerbe— (Fr.) Green, acid wine. Tokay wine,
Acquit Regional Jaune d'Or—(Fr.) Gold aum or ohm— (Ger.) German wine cask,
certificate of French Excise, guarantees usually 160 litres.
authenticity of origin of Cognac. Ausbruch— (Ger.) German term for Aszu
adegas— (Port.) Portuguese for b o d e g a s - Tokays.
wine warehouses. Auslese— (Ger.) A wine made from se­
agrafes—(Fr.) Metal clips used in Cham­ lected grapes.
pagne cellars to hold the cellar corks in
place. baby— (Eng.) Split, nip o r quarter bottle
aguardiente— (Sp.) Spirits. of Champagne.6 1/2 ounces,
aigre— (Fr.) Wine with an acid undertone. barriques, barricas— (Fr. & Sp.) Hogsheads,
alcohol-Chemically C,H OH one of the
B i.e., casks.
results of fermented sugar-containing Baume—Instrument for measuring degree
liquids. of sweetness in wines and spirits.
aldehydes—By-product of alcoholic liquids Banvin, Ban de Vendange— (Fr.) Ancient
resulting from the combination of alco­ French custom of fixing the date when
hol, acid, and air. the gathering of the grapes might
alembic, alambic, alambique— (Fr. & Sp.) begin.
Still. Beerenauslese— (Ger.) Wine made from
Amoroso—(Sp.) Medium dry type of individually selected berries (grapes).
Sherry. binning— (Eng.) Storing wines in bins in
Amontillado— (Sp.) Dry type of Sherry. cellar for development.
afiada— (Sp.) Wine of one vintage, i.e., blending—Marrying two or more similar
vintage wine. products to obtain a more perfect and
aperitif— (Fr.) Appetizer. uniform quality.
Appelation d'Origine or Appelation Con- blume— (Ger.) Bouquet, aroma.
-
trole— (Fr.) Term which appears on bocoy—(Sp.) Large cask used in North of
labels of fine French wines—signifying Spain, approx. 162 gals.
origin and right to the name it bears bodega— (Sp.) Ground level wine ware­
are guaranteed by French Law. houses.
apre— (Fr.) Harsh, rough wine. bois, Gout de— (Fr.) W i n e or spirit with a
aqua vita, acqua vitae—(It. & Latin) Wa­ woody taste.
ter of life—spirits. bon gout— (Fr.) A wine with a good or
aroma, arome— (Sp. & Fr.) Odor or bou­ pleasant taste.
quet of wine, or spirit. Bond, In—Wine or spirit on which duty
arroba— (Sp.) Wine measure holding162/3 and internal revenue tax has not been
litres. paid must remain under government
arrope— (Sp.) Concentrated wine used for supervision as " b o n d " that same will be
sweetening and giving color to Sherries. paid.
asciato— (It.) A dry wine. bonded warehouse—Warehouse under gov­
astringent— (Fr.) A wine which puckers ernment supervision,
the mouth unpleasantly. bota—(Sp.) Butt, Sherry cask, 132 gals.
398
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 399
bottle, botella, b o u t e i l l e - (Eng., Sp. & Fr.) Chateau, chateau-bottled- (Fr.) Applies
A wine bottle containing from 23 to 26 to Bordeaux wines primarily. Wine bot-
ounces. tled at the chateau, estate or vineyard
Bottled in Bond—U.S.A. A straight Whis- where grapes from which it was made
key, at least four years old, bottled at are grown.
100 proof, under government supervi- classified growths—Classification of 1855:
sion, before taxes have been paid on 61 Clarets and 21 Sauternes, now 25,
same. classed according to merit in 1855.
bouchonne, gout de bouchon— (Fr.) ' A climat— (Fr.) Vineyard.
corky wine—one that has taken o n an cochylis—A disease of the vine.
unpleasant taste of cork, color, vino de— (Sp.) color wine, i.e. con-
bouquet— (Fr.) Aroma or fragrance of a centrated wine used to give color and
wine or spirit, sweetness to Sherry.
bowle— (Ger.) W i n e cup prepared with collage— (Fr.) Fining or clearing a wine.
fresh fruit, wine, herbs and liqueurs or conservato— (It.) A wine to which concen-
brandy. trated or boiled wine has been added,
bocksbeutel, boxbeutel— (Ger.) Squat, consumo— (Port. & Sp.) Ordinary wine for
flask-like bottle used for Steinwein. local consumption.
breed—The character or degree of perfec- corky wine—A wine with an unpleasant
tion a wine attains. odor which has been imparted by a dis-
brut— (Fr.) Driest type of Champagne. eased cork. This can happen even with
butt—Standard shipping cask for Sherry, the finest wines.
132 gals. corks—Stoppers for bottles made from the
butte, buttig— (Ger.) Measure used in spongy bark of the cork-oak. Spanish
Tokaj-Hegyalja, 13.6 litres. cork is the world's finest for this pur-
pose.
Cabinett-wein— (Ger.) T h e finest quality corps—(Fr.) Body, i.e. richness in alcohol
of certain Rhine wines is specially re- and other substances,
served and so marked. Notably at Schloss corsé—(Fr.) A full bodied wine,
Johannisberg. coulant— (Fr.) A wine which drinks easily
caña— (Sp.) Tall straight sided glass, used and pleasantly,
for drinking Sherry in Jerez. Also name coupe— (Fr.) A blended wine,
for sugar cane from which molasses and coupage— (Fr.) Blending or vatting.
finally rum are obtained. cremant— (Fr.) Creaming or slightly spar-
capiteux, Vin— (Fr.) Spirity, heady wine. kling, i.e. crackling,
capsule—Protectors for wine and spirit creszenz— (Ger.) " T h e growth of",
bottle corks made of metal, wax or criadera— (Sp.) Nursery stage in the Sherry
cellulose. maturing system,
cask—Large container for wines or spirits crianza, vino de— (Sp.) A suitable wine
usually made of oak. destined to become Sherry,
casse— (Fr.) Chemical disease of wines re- cru— (Fr.) Vineyard, growth,
sulting from excess iron. cru classé— (Fr.) One of the Bordeaux
catalyst—Chemical agent which induces classified growths of 1855.
chemical changes in other substances by crudo, vino— (Sp.) Young or immature
its presence but itself remains un- wine.
changed. crust—(Eng.) T h e hardened deposit thrown
cellar—Underground warehouse for stor- off by red wines which have been long
ing wines. in bottles; apples principally to Vintage
centilitre—(Fr.) t / i o o t h part of a litre. Ports.
cep—(Fr.) A vine stock. cups—Iced wine flavored with fresh fruits,
cepage— (Fr.) T h e vine stock. brandy, liqueurs, and/or herbs.
Certificate of Age—Government certificate
guaranteeing age of spirits. decanter—A glass bottle or container into
chais, chaix— (Fr.) Wine or Cognac ware- which wines o r spirits are decanted
houses and cellars. from their original containers, for
charnu— (Fr.) A wine of full body. serving.
400 APPENDIX
decanting—To transfer a wine or spirit eau de vie— (Fr.) Spirits, generally brandy.
from one bottle to another. Literal translation: water of life.
degorgement— (Fr.) Disgorging process eau de vie de marc— (Fr.) A brandy dis-
used in production of Champagne to tilled from the fermented pomace or
remove the sediment. husks of grapes after they have been
delicat, delicatesse— (Fr.) delicate, deli- pressed for wine.
cacy; an elegant well balanced wine echt— (Ger.) Dry—i.e. no sugar has been
that is not harsh or coarse. added to the must.
delimited areas—Certain areas whose re- edelfaule or edelreif—(Ger.) Over-ripe
gional name is given to the wine or grapes as the French pourriture noble.
spirit produced within the geographi- edelgewachs— (Ger.) The finest growths,
cal limits of the region. i.e. only the finest vintages.
demi-(Fr.) Half. eggrapage— (Fr.) Destemming process be-
demi-sec— (Fr.) Half dry. Term used in fore grapes are pressed.
describing a fairly sweet type of Cham- ehrwein—(Ger.) Very fine wine.
pagne. elegance— (Fr.) Wine of a good vintage
demijohn—A fat bellied wicker encased having delicacy and lightness but does
bottle holding 4 to 10 gals, not promise longevity.
demi-queue—A half queue, a Burgundy elixir— (Fr.) The old term used in France
cask measuring 228 litres, for liqueurs.
density—The specific gravity of a liquid enzymes—The chemical components of
yeast which cause various reactions,
when compared with an equal amount
among which is alcoholic or vinous fer-
of water.
mentation.
deposit—Normal sediment precipitated by
Essenz, Eszencia— (Ger. & Hun.) Essence.
a wine as it matures in the bottle.
The term applied to the rarest and
dextrine—One oi the sugars resulting
richest Tokay wine.
from starch exposed to the action of
estate-bottled—Wine bottled by the vine-
malt.
yard owner or producer.
diastase—The enzyme formed by malting
estates—Term applied to sugar planta-
barley, which causes the starch in grains
tions in Jamaica and British West In-
to be converted into sugars.
dies whence basic material for distilling
dosage—(Fr.) The dosage of sugar used rum is obtained.
in preparing Champagne. esters—The volatile compounds formed
double aum— (Ger.) Wine cask measure of by the combination of the acids with
320 litres used in Germany. the alcohols. The esters give the bou-
douil—(Fr.) The open casks on carts in quet of a wine or spirit.
which the grapes are carted from the estufa— (Port.) Hot-houses or heated cel-
vineyard to the pressing house in Bor- lars where Madeiras are baked when
deaux. young.
doux—(Fr.) Sweet—the term used to de- ethers—The minute ethereal qualities
scribe the sweetest type of Champagne. which form the bouquet of a wine or
dry—A term used in the wine and spirit spirit together with the esters.
trade to denote the opposite of sweet. ethyl alcohol—The principal alcohol found
Literally it means lacking in sugar. In in all alcoholic beverages.
the California Wine Trade the term évent, goût d'— (Fr.) A flat, lifeless wine
"dry" is used to describe all beverage that has been in contact with air.
wines having 14% of alcohol or less. extra sec—extra dry—Term used to de-
The term "dry" or "sec" on a Cham- note a type of dry Champagne.
pagne label denotes a medium sweet
wine. fass, fasser— (Ger.) German for cask.
dulce—(Sp.) Sweet. feints—The heads and tails, i.e. the first
dunder—Sugar-cane juice remains, used and last part of a distillation.
in making heavy bodied rums. ferme, fermeté— (Fr.) A firm, full wine
dur— (Fr.) Hard. A term used to describe which possesses a hardness when ma-
a harsh too-young wine. ture that it should have lost.
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 401

fermentation—The chemical process gallice, spiritus vini de—(Latin) T h e

whereby sugars are broken down into medical term for Brandy used in Eng-
alcohol, carbonic acid gas, and other land.
by-products. gallon—An American and English liquid
fiasco—(It.) A flask such as the straw- measure. American gallon, 128 ozs.
covered Chianti bottle. Gay-Lussac—French inventor of the alco-
filtering—The processes of clarifying holometer and the standard measures
liquids. of alcoholic strengths, bearing his name,
fin, finesse— (Fr.) A fine delicate wine of in use in France today.
breed and character. gemarkung—(Ger.) T h e district in which
linage—(Fr.) All of the vineyards of a a wine is grown.
given sub-district. généreux—(Fr.) A generous warming
fine— (Fr.) A term applied to an ordinary wine, rich in alcohol, generally having
brandy served in a café. over 12%.
gewachs—(Ger.) Growth o r vineyard of,
fining—Clarifying wines by adding mate-
always followed by the name of the
rials which combine with the particles
proprietor, to denote ownership.
of sediment floating in it and after a
goût—(Fr.) Taste.
short period settle to the bottom, leav-
goût Américain—Sweet Champagne to
ing the wine star .bright.
please the taste of South Americans,
fino— (Sp.) T h e term applied to the driest
goût Anglais—A very dry Champagne for
type of Sherries.
the English taste,
flagon—An ancient wine flask. goût de bouchon—A corky wine,
flask—A flat-sided bottle usually 12 1/2 ozs. goût d'évent—A flatish, lifeless taste,
but holding anywhere from 8 to 32 ozs. goût de pierre à fusil—A flinty taste, to
flor— (Sp.) See flower. b e found in Chablis,
flower—flowering—The secondary yeast, goût de paille—A straw, musty taste,
mycoderma vini, which settles on Sherry grain spirits—Patent still spirits obtained
wine and flowers out profusely. from unmalted grain,
foils—The metal or tin foil capsules o n gros producteurs—(Fr.) Vine varieties
Champagne bottles. which produce large quantities but not
fort— (Fr.) Strong—wines of good body. fine quality wines,
fortified wines—Wines whose natural al- growth—A vineyard (cru in French).
coholic strength is increased by the
addition of brandy. halb-fuder- (Ger.) Half-fuder, the stand-
foudre—(Fr.) Large storage casks for ard Moselle wine cask, containing 480
wines. litres.
foxiness—Term used to describe a certain halb-stiick— (Ger.) Half-stuck, the stand-
wild flavor to be found in wines pro- ard Rhine and Palatinate wine cask,
duced from American grapes in the containing 640 litres.
eastern part of the U.S.A. heads—The spirits obtained at the begin-
ning of distillation.
franc—(Fr.) A natural tasting clean wine.
hectare— (Fr.) 100 ares equalling 2.47
frappé— (Fr.) Iced. T e r m applied to serv-
acres.
ice of liqueur with finely cracked ice.
hectolitre— (Fr.) 100 litres equalling
fruity—A frank taste of grape found in
26.4178 gals,
good wines.
high wines—The useful spirits obtained
fuder—(Ger.) A Moselle wine cask meas- in distillation after eliminating heads
ure holding 960 litres. and tails.
fumet—(Fr.) A pronounced bouquet. hippocras—An ancient aromatized wine,
fumeux— (Fr.) A spirited or heady wine. often mentioned in poetry.
fungus—Moulds which appear where Hock—The English abbreviation for
wines are kept carelessly and where the Hochheimer which today denotes any
most careful hygiene is not observed. Rhine wine but not a Moselle.
fusel oil—The higher or other alcohols hogshead—Cask of varying measure. Hogs-
besides ethyl alcohol found in all spirits. head of Sherry contains 66 gals.
402 APPENDIX
hydrometer—An apparatus used to meas­ maderise— (Fr.) A sweet white wine that
ure the density of alcoholic beverages. has become very dark and taken on a
woody character.
isinglass—Made from fish gelatine; in gen­ maestro, vino— (Sp.) Color wine used in
eral use as a fining material. Malaga.
magnum—A double sized bottle. Cham­
pagne or Burgundy—52 ozs. Claret, 48
Jeroboam or double magnum—Name of
ozs.
an oversize Champagne bottle, holding
malt—Grain, generally barley, which has
four regular bottles or 104 ozs.
been allowed to germinate for a short
period that the enzyme diastase may be
keg—A small stout cask, formed.
keller-(Ger.) Cellar. malts—Scotch whisky made entirely from
kellerabfullung, kellerabzug— (Ger.) Bot­ malted barley.
tled at the cellar or estate. marc— (Fr.) T h e grapes required to load
kill-devil—One of the first names applied a Champagne press for a pressing; also
to R u m in the British West Indies. the skins, pips, or husks remaining
konsumwein— (Ger.) Vin ordinaire—for after the grapes have been pressed.
home or local consumption. mashing—The operation of mixing ground
meal and malt with water to liquefy
lagar—(Sp. & Port.) T h e term applied to the starches that they may be converted
the pressing trough. into sugars by the diastase in the malt.
lager—A pale light beer. Most American Mickey Finn, Mickey—a drink in which
beers are lager beers. "knockout" drops have been placed.
landing—(applied to Champagne) T h e mildew—A disease which attacks the vines
length of time that Champagne has in rainy or damp seasons.
been in the country—for instance, moelle, moelleux— (Fr.) Marrow—richness
Champagne that has been in the coun­ in a wine without it being sweet.
try one year is said to have one year's mosto— (Sp.) Must.
landing. mou— (Fr.) Flabby. Wine lacking in char­
lees—The sediment which settles on the acter.
bottom of a cask of wine. mountain—Term used in England dur­
léger— (Fr.) light—a wine lacking in body. ing the eighteenth century to denote
limousin (oak)—(Fr.) T h e oak used for very sweet wines as opposed to sack
the casks in which Cognac is aged. which was less sweet.
mousseux— (Fr.) Sparkling.
liqueur—(Fr.) cordial.
must—Grape juice before and while it is
liqueur d'expédition— (Fr.) In Cham­
fermenting.
pagne—the sugar added to give the
mustometer, saccharometer—Apparatus for
varying degrees of sweetness at the
measuring the sugar content of grape-
time of disgorging.
must.
liqueur de tirage (dosage)—(Fr.) In Cham­
musty—A wine that has acquired a mouldy
pagne—the sugar added at the time of
unpleasant smell,
bottling to insure an even secondary mout— (Fr.) Must, i.e. unfermented grape
fermentation. juice.
liquoureux—(Fr.) A wine which is rich mycoderma aceti— (Latin) T h e vinegar
and sweet. yeast.
liquor—A trade term for the water used mycoderma vini— (Latin) T h e yeast re­
to reduce the proof of spirits. sponsible for vinous fermentation.
lodges— (Port.) T h e warehouses where
Port wines are stored in Vila Nova de natur, naturrein, naturwein— (Ger.) Per­
Gaia, Portugal. T h e warehouses where fectly natural wine to which no sugar
Madeira wines are stored in Funchal, has been added.
Madeira. nature—(Fr.) Term used in Champagne
low wines—In pot still distillation, the labeling interchangeably with brut.
spirits obtained from the first operation. Also to denote still Champagne.
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 403
Nebuchadnezzar—Extraordinary Cham­ pelure d'oignon— (Fr.) Onion' skin. T h e
pagne bottle size holding so quarts or brown tinge which certain red wines
520 ozs. (I have never seen one.) take on when old.
nerveux— (Fr.) A vigorous wine of long petit— (Fr.) Small. A small poor wine.
keeping qualities which will travel well. perfume— (Fr.) T h e bouquet of a wine or
neutral spirits—Spirits distilled out from spirit.
any material at a proof of 190 degrees petillant— (Fr.) A crackling or semi-
or more, whether or not it is later re­ sparkling wine.
duced in proof. phylloxera vastatrix—The American grape­
nip or nips—Term applied in the trade vine louse which has caused untold
to miniature bottles of spirits; also ap­ damage to the world's vineyards.
plied to a "split" of Champagne. piece— (Fr.) T h e standard Burgundy
nose—The bouquet or aroma of a wine cask, measuring 60 gallons.
or spirit. Pinot, Pinneau— (Fr.) Grape variety of
nu— (Fr.) Term denoting that the price Burgundy and Champagne.
quoted does not include the cost of pint—Liquid measure of 16 ozs. Also a
cask. In other words, the price is for standard of fill for spirits in U.S. bot­
the "bare" wine. tles of 16 ozs.
pipe—The term applied to the cask used
oenology—The science or study of wines. in the Port, Lisbon, and Tarragona
octavilla, octave— (Sp. & Eng.) An eighth wine trades containing 138 gallons and
of a cask. In Sherry trade, 161/2 gallons. to the Madeira trade where a pipe
oidium (oidium tuckeri)—A fungus dis­ holds 110 gals.
ease which attacks the vines. piquant— (Fr.) A pleasant point of acid­
ordinaire— (Fr.) T h e common wine of ity. Generally applied to dry white
everyday use in France. wines.
Originalabfüllung, Originalabzug— (Ger.) piqué— (Fr.) A wine which has begun to
Original bottling. turn. Its only use is for vinegar.
over proof—Spirits whose alcoholic strength piquette— (Fr.) A common ordinary wine
0
is more than 100 proof. used in certain parts of France.
plastering—The system of adding yeso or
palo cortado—(Sp.) T h e special marking gypsum to grapes when they are treaded
used to denote raya (/) Sherries which and pressed in the lagar in Jerez, Spain.
have developed full and will become plat—(Fr.) A dull, flat, lifeless sort of
Olorosos. wine.
partum—(Fr.) T h e fragrance, rather than plein— (Fr.) A frank, forward full-bodied
the bouquet, of a wine, wine.
passe-tous-grains— (Fr.) A Burgundy wine portes-greffes— (Fr.) T h e hardy phyllox­
made of a mixture of Pinot and Gamay era-resisting American root-stocks on
grapes. which the fine vines of Europe are
Pasteur, Louis—Great French scientist grafted.
whose studies on malt and vinous fer­ pot still—The old fashioned, fat-bellied,
mentation gave the first complete ex­ tapered neck still which requires two
planation of these phenomena. distinct operations to produce its use­
pasteurization—A process discovered by ful spirit.
Pasteur of arresting, making inactive, pourriture noble— (Fr.) "Noble rotten­
or killing the ferments in wine, beer, or ness"—the state of over-ripeness of the
milk, etc. through heating the liquid grapes of the Sauternes region of Bor­
0
and holding it for a brief time at 144 deaux. It is in reality a yeast or mold
to 149° Fahrenheit. known scientifically as botrytis cinerea.
patent still—The two column or continu­ precoce— (Fr.) A precocious wine that de­
ous still "Patented" by Aeneas Coffey velops or matures rapidly.
in 1830. pricked wine—Same as pique.
pauvre— (Fr.) Poor—a wine without charm, proof—An arbitrary system of measuring
pays, vin du—(Fr.) Wine of the region— the alcoholic strength of a liquid. A
to be consumed on the spot. spirit of 100 proof is one which c jn-
 404 APPENDIX
tains exactly 50% of alcohol by volume of lowering the alcoholic strength of a
at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Each degree spirit by the addition of water.
of proof represents °t alcohol. refreshing—Term applied to the adding
pupitres—(Fr.) The special racks used in of young wine to an older one (in
the Champagne cellars during the cask) to give the old wine new life.
remuage (shaking) operation. This term is also used in the same
puttony, puttonyos—(Hung.) The meas­ manner with respect to spirits, particu­
ure in which grapes are gathered in the larly brandies.
Tokaj-Hegyalja from 13.6 to 25 litres. remuage— (Fr.) The "shaking-down" oper­
ation employed in the preparation of
quart—Liquid measure of 32 ozs. Also a Champagne, whereby the bottles are
standard of fill for spirits in U.S. bot­ stood on end and periodically shaken
tles of 32 ozs. to cause the sediment to settle upon
quarter bottle—Wine bottle containing 6 the cork.
to 61/2 ozs.—one fourth the size of a rich, riche (Fr.) A wine having a gener­
regular bottle. ous bouquet, flavor and fullness of
quarter cask—In cases where the standard body.
cask, pipe, or butt is too large for a robe— (Fr.) The color of the wine.
merchant, casks containing one fourth rociar—(Sp.) T o refresh an old solera
the original are used. Quarter casks vary with young new wine.
in contents, depending on the wine re­ rondeur— (Fr.) Roundness. A wine which
gion where they are used. drinks easily.
queue— (Fr.) Burgundy casks holding two rosé—(Fr.) Pink wine. A very pale red
pieces equal to 120 gallons. wine obtained by removing the grape
Quinquina— (Fr.) French for quinine. skins as soon as the required amount
Most of the French aperitif wines use of color has been attained by the wine.
the word as a description because they Ruby—A Port of a very deep red color,
are quinined wines, usually quite young, as opposed to one
-quintal—(Sp.) Spanish for 100 pounds. which has been aged for some time in
Also French for 100 kilograms. wood and has become "tawny"—that is,
quintas—(Port.) Portuguese for the vine­ pale in color, through repeated finings.
yard or estate, much the same as "cha­
teau" means in the Bordeaux wine saccharometer—Instrument used to meas­
region. ure the sugar content of must or of
wines or liquors.
race— (Fr.) French for breed. sack, sacke—The old English spelling of
racking—The drawing of wine off its lees the Spanish seco, which became the
into a fresh clean cask. Also means the generic term used to denote the drier
transference of any alcoholic beverage fortified wines as opposed to "moun­
from one cask or vat to another. tain" which were sweet. The term fell,
rancio (Sp.)—Term applied to sweet forti­ into disuse during the last century.
fied wines that have lost some color Today it forms part of a trade-marked
through age in the bottle. Such wines brand owned by one of the larger
acquire a peculiar aroma. Sherry shipping houses.
rectifying—Anything which changes the scantling—The stout wooden beams or
natural state of a spirit, such as redis­ supports on which the casks rest in the
tilling after it has been barreled, add­ cellar.
ing coloring matter, sweetening, or any schnapps—Generic Dutch and German
other flavoring material. Adding water term denoting spirituous liquors.
to reduce proof does not constitute rec­ sec— (Fr.) French term for dry. Also term
tifying. used to denote a medium sweet Cham­
red wines—Any wine which has the slight­ pagne.
est part of red coloring, obtained from sediment—The natural deposit found in
the pigment found on the inside of the wines as they grow old. It is formed by
grape skin. the crystallization and settling or pre­
reducing—Term applied to the operation cipitation of bitartrates.
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 404

self whiskies—Term used in the Scotch cask measure, used in the Rhine, con­
whisky trade to denote a "straight" or taining 1200 litres.
an unblended Scotch malt whisky.
sekt— (Ger.) Sparkling wine. tannin, tannic—An important astringent
seve— (Fr.) Literally sap. It is the combi­ acid found in all wines, but more so in
nation of flavor and body which makes red wines than in white. T h e proper
wine a pleasant beverage. What bou­ amount of tannic acid is necessary to
quet is to the nose, seve is to the the keeping quality of a fine wine.
palate. tappit-hen—A large Scotch wine bottle
Sikes, Sykes—Inventor of a hydrometer holding 128 ozs. or one gallon.
and tables for measuring alcoholic tawny—The quality of paleness or golden
strengths which are in use in England. tinge which Ports acquire when ma­
solear— (Sp.) Term meaning "sunning" tured in wood. This comes from the
and describing the exposure of the loss of red color resulting from repeated
grapes to the sun (sol) for 24-48 hours finings. Such wines are Tawny Ports.
in the Sherry region. tendre—(Fr.) A rather light and delicate
solera— (Sp.) T h e system of blending wine, usually a young wine.
which is the heart and soul of Sherry. tent—The ancient name for sweet Spanish
A description of the solera system is to wine.
be found in the chapter on Wines of tierce, tierçon, tierze— (Eng., Fr., Ger.)
Spain. Various spellings for a cask holding a
sophistiquer— (Fr.) To falsify a wine or to third of a butt or pipe.
ameliorate a defective wine with any­ tilts—Bars used for adjusting casks or
thing which will cover up its defects. scantlings to the desired position.
souche— (Fr.) Cep or vine root stock. tintourier— (Fr.) French for coloring. T h e
soutirage— (Fr.) Racking the clear wine term applied to grapes used primarily
from one cask into a fresh one. for the abundance of color they con­
soyeaux— (Fr.) Silky, smooth, soft round­ tribute to the must.
ness. Lacking in roughness. tirage— (Fr.) Bottling; also drawing off or
spatlese—(Ger.) Late gathered. A wine filling of wines or spirits into other
made from late picked grapes. Gener­ containers.
ally sweeter than wines made from tonneau— (Fr.) T u n . T e r m used in the
grapes gathered earlier. Bordeaux wine trade representing four
spirits—The generic term for distilled barriques of 225 litres or 900 litres.
liquors. This is the unit of measure in which
neutral spirits, cologne spirits—A spirit wines are sold in the bulk trade.
distilled out at 190° proof or more. trauben kelter— (Ger.) T e r m for hydraulic
Used for blending and the prepara­ grape press in use today.
tion of rectified products, Trockenbeeren Auslese— (Ger.) Wine made
split—Same as quarter bottle. from selected raisin-like grapes. Weather
Spumante— (It.) Italian for sparkling wine, conditions must be perfect throughout
still—The apparatus in which, by appli­ the summer and the late vintage season
cation of heat, the alcohol in a liquid for trockenbeeren auslese wines to be
may be separated and recovered, made. They are very rare and as sweet
pot still—The original form of still or as the richest Sauternes.
alembic.
Coffey still, patent still, double column uisgebeatha (Celtic), uisquebaugh (Gael­
still—Three names applied to the ic)—Meaning "the water of life". It
more modern continuous operation was the first word used to describe
still. whiskey.
stirrup-cup—The parting drink. The ullage—The term used in the trade to de­
name comes from the custom in olden scribe the loss of wine or spirit from a
days of having a last drink with a guest, cask or bottle due to evaporation or
either to help him to his saddle or after leakage.
he had mounted his horse. underproof—A spirit whose alcoholic
stück, stückfasser- (Ger.) T h e standard of strength is below proof. In the U.S. this
 406 APPENDIX
is a spirit of less than ioo° proof, as vins ordinaires.
opposed to an over-proof spirit having vineux— (Fr.) Vinosity.
a strength of over 1 0 0 ° proof, vinho— (Port.) Wine.
usé— (Fr.) A wine that has passed its peak vinho claro— (Port.) Natural wine.
and is on the decline. vinho generoso— (Port.) Fortified wine.
vinho surdo— (Port.) Fortified wine. Ac­
vats—The enormous tubs in which wines cording to Portuguese law, Port wine
ferment, or spirits are blended. must be a "vinho surdo".
vatting—Mixing or blending in a vat. vini— (It.) Wines.
velouté—(Fr.) A wine which has a soft, vini tipici— (It.) Typical or standard
rich, mellow "velvety" softness. No wines.
roughness whatsoever. viniculture—The science of making wine.
velvety—English for velouté. vino—(It. and Sp.) Wine.
vendange, vendangeur— (Fr.) Vintage, vint­ vino corriente— (Sp.) Ordinary wine for
ager. local consumption,
venencia— (Sp.) T h e special cup used for vino de ariada— (Sp.) Young wine of one
drawing samples from the Sherry butts vintage, ready for the criadera reserves,
in the bodega. It is a cylindrical silver vino de color— (Sp.) Color wine used in
cup attached to a long limber strip of the Sherry bodega to give color and
whale-bone. sweetness to the final blend,
vert— (Fr.) Green—term used to describe a vino frizzante— (It.) A lightly sparkling
wine that is too young and not ready type of wine consumed locally in Italy,
for drinking. vino maestro— (Sp.) Master wine. A sweet
vigne— (Fr.) Vine. full wine used to lend character and
vigneron— (Fr.) Vine dresser. body to weaker, thinner wine,
vignoble— (Fr.) Vineyard. vino spumante—(It.) Sparkling wine,
vin— (Fr.) Wine. vinosity—The wininess o r character of a
vin cuit— (Fr.) A concentrated wine used wine. T h e balance of bouquet, flavor,
to improve thin wines. and body in a wine,
vin de garde— (Fr.) A wine worth keep­ vinous—Pertaining to wine,
ing, i.e. for laying down. vintage—The gathering of the grape crop
vin doux— (Fr.) A sweet wine. and the making of the wine. T h e date
vin sec—(Fr.) A dry wine. or year when the wine is made, which
vin de goutte— (Fr.) Wine made from the often appears on wine labels,
last pressing. It is generally of poor vintage wines—In certain wine regions,
quality. particularly Champagne and Port, the
vin de messe— (Fr.) Altar wine. product of exceptional years only, is
vin de paille— (Fr.) White wine made dated.
from grapes which have been spread on virgin brandy—Term applied to un­
straw (paille) mats to sun, before press­ blended Cognac brandies,
ing. viticulture—The science of grape culture,
vin de pays— (Fr.) Small wines of each vitis— (Latin) Vine.
region, consumed locally.
vin gris— (Fr.) A cheap wine made in the wachstum—(Ger.) See gewachs.
eastern part of France from a mixture wash—The term applied in a distillery
of red and white grapes. It is also an­ (usually whiskey) to the fermented
other name for vin ordinaire. liquor when it is ready to g o to the
vin mousseux—(Fr.) Sparkling wine. still. In a Scotch distillery the still
vin nature— (Fr.) Natural; unsweetened which receives the wash is known as
wine. the wash-still.
vin ordinaire— (Fr.) Ordinary cheap wine wassail—Old English toast derived from
of general consumption, the Anglo-Saxon wes hal meaning "be
vin rosé— (Fr.) A pink wine, of good health".
vine—The plant which produces grapes, weepers—Bottles that show leakage
vinello, vinetto, vinettino— (It.) Italian through the cork. Applied mostly to
diminutives for wine. Always poor, thin Champagne and sparkling wines.
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 407

wein— (Ger.) Wine. yayin—A biblical Hebrew term for wine.

wine—Broadly, the fermented juice of yeast—The plant organism whose fermen­
fruit. In the nice sense, wine is the tative qualities cause sugars to break
naturally fermented juice of freshly down into alcohol and carbonic acid
gathered ripe grapes which have been gas.
pressed at or near the place where yema— (Sp.) T h e must resulting from the
gathered. treading before the grapes are sub­
wine-brokers—In many wine regions where jected to pressure. Yema in Spanish
there are many small vineyard owners, means "yolk of an egg" or the core of
there would be utter confusion in mar­ any product.
keting unless there existed a group of
yeso—(Sp.) T h e albariza dust or gypsum
intermediaries—wine-brokers—to act for
(powdered) used in the making of
the buyers from every part of the
Sherry, at the time of treading the
world and for the vineyard owner. T h e
grapes.
wine-broker has functioned for many,
many generations.
wormwood—A perennial herb, artemisia zymase—The specific enzyme in yeast-cells
absinthium, aromatic, tonic, and bitter. which cause vinous fermentation and
It is used in the preparation of ab­ whose catalytic action converts sugars
sinthe, certain liqueurs, and Vermouths. into alcohol and carbonic acid gas.

Trade Abbreviations
A—Amontillado. B.W.—Bonded Winery, Bonded Ware­
A.B.C.—Alcoholic Beverage Control house.
(Board). B.W.I.—British West Indies.
A.B.C.C.—Alcoholic Beverage Control
Commission, C—Centigrade (temperature).
abf.—abfiillung. Cal.—California.
A.B.I. Permit—Alcoholic Beverage Import C.8cF.-cost 8c freight.
Permit, CE.—Cuvée Extra.
ad yal.—ad valorem, Cent.—Centigrade (temperature).
ale—alcohol. Ch.-Château.
Amont.—Amontillado. Champ.—Champagne.
A°—anno (year). Chât.—Château.
a/R.—am Rhein (on the Rhine). u
Chât* —Château.
Artis.—Artisans, Châu—Château.
asst.—assortment.
Cia—Compania (company).
A . T . U . - A l c o h o l T a x Unit.
Cie.—Compagnie (company).
C.I.F.—cost, insurance 8c freight.
B 8c B-Benedictine and Brandy.
Cinti.—Cincinnati.
B.B.-BIackberry.
C L — C l u b Liquor License.
B / B - B o t t l e d in Bond.
cm.—centimeter.
Bbn.—Bourbon.
Cont.—contents.
B.E.B.—Best Ever Bottled.
Cr.—Croix.
Belles—Bouteiiies (bottles).
Cresc—Crescenz.
B.I.B.-Bottled in Bond.
ctms.—centimes.
Bord.—Bordeaux.
cts.—centimes (cents).
Bordx.—Bordeaux.
bot—bottle, bottled.
bott.—bottle. d.—penny (England).
B.P.S.—British plain spirits. D.-dash.
Brit.—British, D—Distillery.
brl.—barrel, D. & R.-Distiller & Rectifier.
brwy.—brewery. D.C.L.—Distillers Company Limited,
Burg.—Burgundy. decalit.—decalitre.
408 APPENDIX
Dist.—Distiller, distilled, distillery, dis­ H.I.M.-His Imperial Majesty.
trict. H.L.—Hotel Liquor License.
Distrib.—Distributor. H.M.—His (or Her) Majesty.
Disty.—Distillery, Hnos"—Hermanos (brothers).
dols.—dollars. H . R . H . - H i s (or Her) Royal Highness.
Dom.—domestic. H . W . - H o t e l Wine License.
D.O.M.—Deo Optimo Maximo ( T o God,
most good, most great), I.—Isle, Island.
doz.— dozen. I.B.-In Bond.
D.P.-Duty paid. I.F.S.-Irish Free State,
D.S.I.-Distilled Spirits Institute, Wash­ imp.—imported.
ington, D.C. imper'L—imperial.
dy.—duty (tariff). I.N.E.—Instituto Nazionale per L'Espor­
tazione (National Export Institute of
E—B.—Estate bottling. Italy).
E.M.—English market. insp.—inspected.
E.S.F.C.—Extra Superior Fine Cognac. I. Permit No—Import (importer's) per­
E.S.F.P.-Extra Superior Fine Pale. mit number.
Est.—Established—estimated. I.R.—Internal revenue.
Et.—Etablissements (French). It.—Italy.
Etab.—Etablissements (French).
Ex.—Extra. kg.—kilogram,
kilolit.—kilolitre,
F.—Fahrenheit (temperature). ko.—kilogram.
F.-fifth (bottle size). kos-—kilograms.
F.A.A.—Federal Alcohol Administration.
F.A.C.A.—Federal Alcohol Control Ad­ L.—Retail Liquor License.
ministration. £.—Pound sterling (England).
Fahr.—Fahrenheit (temperature). Ld.—Limited.
F.A.S.—Free alongside steamer. Lda—Limitada (Spanish or Portuguese)
F.C.—Fine Champagne (Cognac), Lie. No.—License number.
fcs,—francs. liq.—liquor, liqueur.
Fed.—Federal, L.L.—Wholesale Liquor License.
fgn.—foreign, Ltd.—Limited.
fl.—fluid. Ltda.—Limitada (Spanish or Portuguese).
fld.-fluid.
F.O.-Fine Old. M.—Monsieur (Mr.)
F.O.B.—free o n board. Md.—Maryland.
F.O.B.-Fine Old Blend. M. d C h . - M i s du Chateau (Chateau
F.O.E.S.-Fine Old Extra Special, bottled),
fort—fortified. med.—medium,
F.O.S.-Fine Old Special. mm.—millimeter.
F.O.V.E.S.—Fine Old Very Extra Special. Mme.—Madame (Mrs.).
Fr.-French. Mt.—Mount.
frs— francs,
frcs — francs. n.g.s.—neutral grain spirits.
F.T.C.—Federal Trade Commission. N.P.U.—Ne plus ultra; also non plus ultra
F.W.I.-French West Indies. (nothing more beyond).
N.V.—Non vintage.
gal.—gallon,
gall.—gallon. O.B.W.I.—Other British West Indies.
g.n.s.—grain neutral spirits (alcohol). op.—over proof.
o/Rhine—On Rhine (River).
hectol.—hectolitre. ord.—ordinaire (ordinary).
hectolit.—hectolitre, orig.—original.
hhd.—hogshead. oz.—ounce.
 TRADE ABBREVIATIONS 409

Pa.—Pennsylvania. S.O.—Superior Old.

P.A.X.—Paxarette, Pajarete (blending spark.—sparkling.
Sherry), sp. g.—specific gravity.
pet.—per cent. St.—Saint.
Per. No.—permit number, Ste—Sainte.
,e
pes.—pesos (dollars—Spanish), S —Société.
pf.—preferential (tariff), Ste. A""—Société Anonyme (French),
pf.—proof, stk.—stock,
p.g.—proof gallon, str.—straight.
pkg.—package. Sucrs.—Succesores (successors),
P.R.-Puerto Rico. sup.—supérieur, superior,
Pre. Proh.—Pre Prohibition, super"-—supérieurs.
pref.—preferential (tariff), Szam.—Szamorodni (Tokay).
pt.—pint,
puns.—puncheons, t.—teaspoon.
putt.—puttonyos (Hungarian). tbsp.—tablespoon.
P.X.—Pedro Ximenez (blending Sherry). temp.—temperature.
P.X.V.—Pedro Ximenez Viejo (blending Т.Н.—Territory of Hawaii.
Sherry). T. M. Reg.—Trade mark registered.
tsp.—teaspoon.
qr.—quarter,
U.D.L.—United Distillers (of America),
qt.—quart,
Ltd.
qty.—quality,
U.K.-United Kingdom,
qy.—quality.
u.p.—under proof.
U.S.P.—United States Pharmacopoeia.
R. & R.-Rock & Rye.
U.S.S.G.—U.S. Storekeeper-Gauger.
R. C. Bordeaux—Registre du commerce,
U.S.S.R.—Union of Socialist Soviet Re­
Bordeaux.
publics (Russia).
R. C. Bordx.—Registre du commerce, Bor­
deaux. V.C.P.—Very choice pale (product).
Reg. du Com. Bordeaux—Registre du V. de P.—Vino de Pasto.
Commerce, Bordeaux. V.E.F.C.—Very Extra Fine Cognac.
Rect.-Rectifier. V.F.C.—Very Fine Cognac.
reg.—regular (Vermouth—sweet), V.I.—Virgin Islands,
regd.—registered. vint.—vintage.
rep. pt.—reputed pint (i/ia imperial gal­ V.O.-Very Old.
lon). vol.—volume.
rep. qt.—reputed quart ( 1 / 6 imperial gal- V.O.P.-Very Old Pale.
lon), V.O.T.-Very Old Tawny.
res.—reserve. V.O.X.-Very Old Xerez.
R.L.—Restaurant Liquor License. V.S.—Very Superior.
R.L.D.—Retail liquor dealer. V.S.O.—Very Superior Old; Very Special
R.W.—Restaurant Wine License. Old.
V.S.O.P.-Very Superior Old Pale.
s.—shilling (England). Vve.—veuve (widow).
S.A.—Sociedad Anónima (Cuba). V.V.M.P.-Very, Very Mellow, Pale.
S.A.—Société Anonyme (French). V.V.O.-Very, Very Old.
S/A.—Società Anonyma (Italy). V.V.S.—Very, Very Superior.
Saut.—Sauternes. V.V.S.O.P.-Very, Very Superior Old Pale.
Sawfa.—South African Wine Farmers As­
sociation. W.—Retail Wine License.
S. en C—Sociedad en Comandila (lim­ W.D.W.—Wholesale dealer in wines.
ited partnership company), w.g.—wine gallon.
ser.—serial. whse.—warehouse.
S.F.C.—Superior Fine Cognac. W.W.—Wholesale Wine License.
S.L.A.—State Liquor Authority Wwe—Witwe (Widow).
 Selected Bibliography

Allen, H. Warner. The Romance of Wine. Leacock & Co. Madeira and Its Wines.
The Wines of France. Leroy, Jean Ch. La Region de Cognac.
Sherry. Macht, Dr. David I. & Associates. Nar-
Amerine, M. A. and Joslyn, M. A. Table cotic Effect of Polyhydric Alcohols.
Wines. The Technology of their Pro- Pharmacological Studies of Twenty-
duction in California. three Isomeric Octyl Alcohols.
Anonymous. Les Vins de Bourgogne, La A Pharmacological Appreciation of
Cote d'Or. References to Alcohol in the Hebrew
Wine of California. Bible.
Vinos de Espana. MacDonald, Aeneas. Whisky.
Berry, Chas. Walter. In Search of Wine. Mango, Prof. Achile. Typical Italian
Viniana. Wines.
Bird, William. A Practical Guide to Marescalchi, Prof. Arturo. Italian Wines.
French Wines. Meier, Frank. The Artistry of Mixing
Bourke, Arthur. Winecraft. Drinks.
Brillât-Savarin. Physiologie du Gôut. Mitchell, S. Weir. A Madeira Party.
Brunet, Raymond. Manuel Complet du More, David M. The Anatomy of Drunk-
Sommelier et du Marchand de Vins. • enness.
Brunet, Raymond and Perfeito, Valente. Nicolas, Etablissements, Mon Doctor le
Le Porto et la Bonne Chère. Vin.
Bunyard, Edw. and Lorna. The Epicure's Monseignor le Vin.
Companion. Office International du Vin. Bulletin In-
Butler, Frank Hedges. Wine and the ternational du Vin.
Wine Lands of the World. Rappaport, Murray. Accounting Control
Cellier, C. du. Ma Cave. of Wines and Liquors.
Cocks & Feret. Bordeaux et ses Vins. Rodier, Camille. Le Vin de Bourgogne.
Craig, Elizabeth. Wine in the Kitchen. Rosenbloom, M . V. The Liquor Industry.
Crockett, Albert Stevens. Old Waldorf Rosenbloom, M. V. and Greenleaf, A. B.
Bar Days. Bottling for Profit.
De Cassagnac, Paul. French Wines. Rudd, Hugh R . Hocks and Moselles.
Delamain, Robert. Histoire du Cognac. Saintsbury, Prof. George. Notes on a Cel-
Dewey, S. Wines. lar Book.
Faisole, Chas. A. The .Restaurateur's Schenley Import Corp. Wine Without
Handbook. Frills.
Gale, Hyman and Marco, Gerald F. The Schmutz, Ch. Le Vin.
How and When. Schoonmaker, Frank and Marvel, T o m .
Guillon, J. M. Les Grands Vins de Bor- The Complete Wine Book.
deaux. Shand, P. Morton. A Book of Wines.
Gwynn, Stephen. Burgundy. A Book of Other Wines.
Harper's Directory & Manual, 1939. A Book of Food.
Hawker, C. E. Chats About Wine. Simon, André L. The Blood of the Grape.
Healy, Maurice. Claret; and the White Bottle Screw Days.
Wines of Bordeaux. A Dictionary of Wine.
Herod, W m . P. An Introduction to Wines. Champagne.
Huntington, R. T . Bar Management and The Elixir of Youth.
Beverage Profits. Madeira.

410
 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 411

Simon, André L. (continued) U. S. Dept. of Agriculture Bulletins (con­

Port. tinued)
— The Supply and Care of Wine. Perelli-Minetti, Joseph. Black Juice
The Wines of France. Grape Varieties in California.
The Wine Connoisseur's Catechism. Husmann, Geo. C. Grape Propagation,
Wine and Spirits. Pruning and Training.
French Cook Book. Dearing, Chas. Muscadine Grapes.
Simon, André L. & Craig, Elizabeth. United States Tariff Commission, Report
134. Grapes, Raisins & Wines.
Madeira; Wine, Cakes and Sauce.
Valaer, Peter, Wines of the World
Smith, W . H . and Helwig, Dr. F. C.
Vizetelly, Ernest & Arthur. The Wines of
Liquor, the Servant of Man.
Strecker, E. A . and Chambers, F. T . Jr. France.
Vizetelly, Henry. Facts About Champagne
Alcohol, One Man's Meat.
& Other Sparking Wines.
Street, Julian. Wines.
Wagner, Philip M . American Wines and
T o d d , W m . J. Handbook of Wine.
How to Make Them.
United Brewers Industrial Foundation. Wine Advisory Board. Wine Handbook
American Beer and Ale. Series, Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4.
Beer and Brewing in America. Waldorf Astoria, Hotel. Food, Beverages
U. S. Bureau of Internal Revenue, Report. and Restaurant Service.
Valaer, Peter. Scotch Whisky. Wine & Spirit Trade Diary & Agency List
U. S. Dept. of Agriculture Bulletins- 1940.
Dix, I. W . and Magness, J. R . Ameri­ Woelke, "Eddie." The Barman's Mentor.
can Grape Varieties, circular 437.
 Index
On pages 361-369 is a Quick Guide to Wines and Spirits which gives pro­
nunciation, source, description, and use of some 600 leading beverages.
Also useful for ready reference is the Glossary of Terms used in the trade,
on pages 398-407.

Aalborg Akvavit, 238 American Champagne, 144, 146, 148

Abbott's Aged Bitters, 243, 270, 320 (illus.), 159, 161, 166
Abricotine, 249 American Equivalents of Foreign Stand­
Absinthe, 240, 272, 280 ards, 385
Absinthe drip, 241 American gins, 8, 227
accounting for retail stores, 349-351 American liqueurs, 8, 249
Adventurer's Cellar, 313 American producers, 386
advertising, 326, 353 American whiskey, 215-223, 271-273, 278,
Advocaat, 277 309, 315, 317-319, 356
age in Cognac, 202 American wines, 6, 15, 18, 138, 139-148
in whiskey, 214, 218, 356 map, 141
aging gin, 228 America's Cook Book, 284
rum, 232, 234 Amer Picon, 249, 274
Aguardiente rum, 232 Amontillado Sherry wine, 113, 114, 115,
air-conditioning of cellars, 334 320
Akvavit, 8, 192, 237, 238, 309, 319, 389 Amoroso Sherry wine, 14, 110, 113, 115
alcohol, 4, 6, 10, 11, 194-196, 376 Andre Simon's French Cook Book, 284
alcoholic beverages, 2, 4, 5, 10, 12, 15, 194, Angelica wine, 161, 166
355, 359, 360 Angostura Bitters, 243, 268, 270
Alcohol T a x Unit, U. S. Treasury Dept., Anis, 249
222, 352, 353 Anisette, 9 (illus.) , 2 4 1 , 249
aldehydes, 193, 218, 376 Anjou, wine, 21, 69
ale, See beer and ale Anninger Perle wine, 171
Aleatico grape, 75, 156 aperitif wine, 132, 135, 176, 249, 268, 286,
Aleatico wine, 165 309, 319, 389
Alella wine, 116, 117 Aphorisms of Brillat-Savarin, 379
Alexander cocktail, 270 Appelation Controle, 23
Algeria wines, 132, 176 appetizer wines, 161, 162
Alicante Bouschet grape, 156 apple brandy, 206
Aligote grape, 50 Apple Jack, 8 (illus.), 206, 271, 319, 387
Allen, H. Warner, 52, 123 Apple wine, 187
all-purpose wine glass, 305, 306 apricot brandy, 207
Aloxe-Corton wine, 48, 49, 53 apricot liqueur, 249, 276, 319
Alsace brandy, 206, 207 apricot wine, 187
wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 21, 63-66, 276, 317, Apry, 249
369. 389 Apulia, Italy, 75, 76, 83
map, 63 Arak, 190, 231, 235, 249
Altar wine, 116 Argentina wine, 178-181
Amateur's Cellar, 318 Arinto grape, 125
American agents of foreign shippers, 389- Armagnac brandy, 23, 203, 281, 390
395 aromatic bitters, 270, 271, 318, 319, 320
American brandy, 204, 205 aromatized wines, 7, 132-135

413
414 INDEX
Arrack, 242 in distilling, 212, 216, 218, 226, 227
Arrack Punsch, 249 suggestions for keeping and serving,
Askeri grape, 175 chart, 260
Asti Spumante wine, 6, 72, 77, 78 Beerenauslese wine, 89, 90
Astor Hotel, 286, 338, 341, 346, 347 Beginner's Cellar, 318
Aszu T o k a y wine, 100, 101 Bénédictine, 8, 14, 246, 247 (illus.) , 275,
Ausbruck T o k a y wine, too 277. 3'9
Auslese wine, 89, 90, 96 Bernkasteler Doktor wine, 94, 95
Australia wine, 177 Bernkastler wine, 96
Austria wine, 171 Best I Ever Ate, 284
Aztali T o k a y wine,-100 beverage control, 338-351
beverage department procedures, 339
B and B Liqueur D . O . M . , 247 beverage managers, 338
Bacardi cocktail, 270 beverage service, 304-312
Badacsonyi Auvergnac Gris wine, 102, 103 bibliography, 410
Badacsonyi Rizling wine, 103 bin cards, 340, 341 (illus.) , 342
Badacsonyi Szurke-Barat wine, 103 Binger Scharlachberg wine, 93
baking process, California wine, 158, 159 bitters, 229, 242, 243, 267, 268, 270, 318,
banquet bars, 344 319, 320, 390
banquet manager, 285 blackberry brandy, 207
banquet wine list, 288 blackberry liqueur, 250
Bar, 344 blackberry wine, 186, 187
arrangement, 346, 347, 348 black currant wine, 186
barman's j o b , 296 Blanchot (Chablis) wine, 52
barman's rules, 299 Blaufrankisch grape, 172
implements, 3 0 1 blended whiskey, 215, 220-223, 319
losses, 344 blending, 107, 112, 114, 201, 202, 213, 214
managers, suggestions to, 300 Bloody Mary, 273
mixing drinks at, 300 Boal wine, 130
operation, 296-303 bock beer, 254
order sheet, 344 bocksbeutel, 88, 95
profits, 296 bodega, 105, 109, 110, 113 (illus.), 115
serving drinks at, 300 Boiseaumarieé, Baron P. L e Roy, 66
supplies, checking, 297 Bols, Erven Lucas, 249
Barat Palinka, brandy, 207 Bolskiimmel, 249
liar Management and Beverage Profits, bonded warehouse, 216, 219
296 Boonekamp Bitters, 243
Barbados rum, 231, 236, 394 Bordeaux Blanc wine, 26
Barbaresco wine, 78 Bordeaux R o u g e wine, 26
Barbera grape, 75, 77, 156 Bordeaux type wine of Chile, 185
Barbera-type wine of California, 161, 164 Bordeaux wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 21, 23-42,
Barbera wine, 78 317, 318, 369, 390
Barberone wine, 161, 164 Claret, 17, 21, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31-
Bardolino wine, 79 35, 68, 269, 277, 281, 294, 312, 318,
Barolo wine, 72, 77 319, 369, 380
barrels, origin of charring, 216 classified growths, 34
Barsac wine, 26, 40 Côtes, 25
Bass ale, 261 Entre Deux Mers, 25
Bastardo grape, 120, 128 Graves, 25, 26, 33, 34, 35, 37, 38, 39, 68,
Batard-Montrachet wine, 52 286, 319
Batavia Arak, 8, 190, 231, 235, 249 map, 45
Baumgarten, Otto, 289 Medoc, 25, 36, 37
Beard, James, 283 Palus, 25
Béarne wine, 70 Pomerol, 25, 35, 37, 38
Beaujolais, see Maçonnais Sauternes, 25, 26, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 39-
Beclan grape, 156 42, 68, 294, 319, 381
beer and ale, 9, 15, 253-264, 283, 309, 317, St. Emilion, 25, 35, 37, 38
bottled in bond, 222
359. 370
 INDEX 415
bottled waters, 336 Burgundy wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 11, 21, 29,
bottling, 29, 113, 335 42-54, 68, 69, 269, 282, 294, 312,
bottle sizes, 62, 385 317. 318, 319. 369. 381. 391
bottle-sickness, 29 Chablis, 21, 43, 50, 51 ( m a p ) , 52
bottom-fermentation, 258 Côte Chalonnais, 43
Boual grape, 127 Côte de Beaune, 43, 46, 47, 49, 50, 382
Bouquet de France, 284 Côte de Dijon, 381
Bourbon whiskey, 8 (illus.) , 216, 220, 221, Côte de Nuits, 43, 46, 47, 382
223, 272, 273, 278, 309, 315, 317, 318 Côte d'Or, 21, 43, 46, 47, 381
Bourboutenque grape, 67 Lower Burgundy, 50
bousa, 253 Maçonnais & Beaujolais, 43, 49, 50, 51
Bracchetto grape, 75 (map) ,319
Brandy, 2, 8 (illus.), 109, 120, 191, 197- m a p , 45
208, 218, 245, 248, 268, 269, 272, sparkling, 53, 54, 318
275, 277, 280, 281, 282, 309, 317, vintages, 53
332, 390. 391 white, 50
American, 8, 205 Byrrh, 135
A p p l e Brandy, 206
A p p l e Jack, 8, 206 Cabernet grape, 80, 117, 172, 177
Calvados, 206 Cabernet Sauvignon grape, 24, 156
Armagnac, 8, 203 Cabernet wine, 164, 185
Blackberry, 207 Calabria, Italy, 76, 83
California, 158, 166, 167, 205 Calaretto grape, 84
Cognac, 2, 8 (illus.) , 197, 198-203, 232, California brandy, 166, 205
248, 277, 287, 318, 319, 390; m a p , wine, 160-166
199 California W i n e Advisory Board, 169, 357
Grappa, 167, 204 California wine districts, 153-156
Greek, 8, 206 California W i n e Institute, 20, 168
California " W i n e Marketing Act"—1937,
Kirsch (cherry brandy) , 8, 207
,69
Marc, 204
Muscat, 167 Caloric Punsch, 249
Napoleon, 203 caloric values of wine, 18
Peru (Pisco Punch) , 206 Calvados, 206
Pomace, 167 Campania, Italy, 82
Portuguese, 204 Canadian whiskey, 8, 221, 223
Raki, 206 Caniola Nero grape, 77, 80
Slivovitz (Quetsch, M i r a b e l l e ) , 8, 207 Cao grape, 120
Capri wine, 72, 83
Spanish, 8, 204, 391
carbonated wine, 147, 166
Brandy sling, 278
care of wines, spirits 8c beers, 334
brandy snifter, 203
Carignane grape, 70, 156, 176
Brauneberger wine, 96
Carignane wine, 164
Brauneberger Juffer wine, 95
Carlsberg beer, 255
Brazil wine, 177
Carmenere grape, 24
breakage, 58, 340
catalogs, 328
brewing industry, 355
Caucasian grape, 172
brewing process, 16, 255
Caucasian Champagne, 172
Brillat-Savarin, 379
Catawba grape, 142, 144, 145
Brolio Chianti wine, 80
cellar book, 336
Bronx cocktail, 270
cellar issue sheet, 341, 343
Browns, the, 284
cellar treatment, 334-337
Brown Sherry wine, 113, 114
certificate of label approvals, 353
Bucellas wine, 125
Chablis-type wine, 163, 185
bulk-fermented wine, 147
Chablis wine, 21, 43, 50, 51 ( m a p ) , 69,
Burger grape, 157
Burgunder grape, 88, 172 319, 383, 391
Burgundy basket, 312 Chamberlain, Samuel, 264
Chambertin wine, 46, 47, 319
Burgundy-type wines, 137, 164, 166, 175,
Champagne cider, 186
177, 185, 318, 319
416 INDEX
Champagne cocktail, 62, 270 Chateau Margaux wine, 35, 318, 319
Champagne Nature, 62 Château Montrose wine, 36
Champagne wars, 22 Chateau Mouton Rothschild wine, 35, 36,
Champagne wine, 1, 6, 7 (illus.), 11, 14, 318, 319
17, 21, 23, 27, 33, 54-63, 146, 166, Château Myrat wine, 42
270, 282, 288, 294, 310, 318, 319, Château Nenin wine, 38
332,. 335, 346, 369 391 Château Olivier wine, 38, 319
map, 55 Château Palmer wine, 36
Charbono grape, 156 Château Pape-Clément wine, 35, 37
Charbono wine, 164 Château Pavie wine, 37
Chardonnay grape, 44, 50, 56, 157, 171 Château Petit Village wine, 38
Chardonnay wine, 163 Château Petrus wine, 35, 37
Charlemagne wine, 53 Château Pontet Canet wine, 32, 36
Chartreuse, 8, 14, 247, 320 Château Rabaud-Promis wine, 42
Chassagne-Montrachet wine, 46, 48, 50, 52 Château Rieussec wine, 42
Chasselas grape, 64 Château Sigalas-Rabaud wine, 42
Château Ausone wine, 23, 35, 37, 319 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte wine, 37
Château Belair wine, 35, 37 Château Suduiraut wine, 42
Château Beychevelle wine, 37 Château Talbot wine, 36
Château bottle wine, 30, 31 Château Trotanoy wine, 38
Château Brane-Cantenac wine, 36 Château Yquem wine, 30, 31, 32, 39, 41,
Château Branaire-Duluc-Ducru wine, 36 42, 319
Château Calon-Segur wine, 36 Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine, 14, 66, 67,
Château Canon wine, 37 68
Château Carbonnieux wine, 38 chemical composition of must and light
Château Certan wine, 35, 37, 38 beverage wine, 377
Château Chalons wine, 70 Chemin Blanc grape, 69
Château Cheval Blanc wine, 35, 37, 319 Cheer Shop (illus.), 329
Château Climens wine, 42 cherry brandy, 207, 275, 282
Château Clos-Haut-Peyraguey wine, 42 Cherry Heering, 245, 248
Château Cos d'Estournel wine, 36, 319 cherry liqueur, 250
Château Coutet wine, 42, 319 cherry wine, 186, 187, 391
Château de Rayne-Vigneau wine, 42 Cherry Wine cocktail, 270
Château Filhot wine, 42 Chevalier-Montrachet wine, 52
Château Fourtet wine, 38 Chianti Classico wine, 80
Château Guiraud wine, 42 Chianti-type wine, 163, 164
Château Grillet wine, 67 Chianti wine, 7 (illus.) , 72, 75, 77, 80,
Château Gruaud-Larose-Sarget, 36
317, 319
Château Haut-Bailly wine, 37
Childs Restaurants (illus.), 327
Château Haut-Brion wine, 35, 36, 319
Chile, wine, 181-185
Château Haut-Brion-Blanc wine, 38, 318,
China, samshu, 253
319
wine, 175
Château Kirwan wine, 32, 36 Cider, 186
Château La Conseillante wine, 38 Cinsant grape, 66
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey wine, 42 Cir6 di Calabria wine, 83
Château Lafite-Rothschild wine, 30, 31, Clairette grape, 67, 132, 176
35, 318, 319 Clairette wine, 132
Château La Mission-Haut-Brion wine, 35, Claret-type wine, 117, 164, 175, 180, 319
36 Claret wine, 17, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29, 3 0 -
Château Langoa-Barton wine, 32 35, 68, 269, 277, 281, 294, 312, 318,
Château Latour wine, 30, 31, 32, 33, 35, 319, 369, 380
318, 319 classified growths, 34
Château La T o u r Blanche wine, 42, 319 clarifying wine, 29
Château Léoville-Barton wine, 32, 36 classified Claret growths, 34
Château Léoville-Las Casses wine, 36 classified Sauternes growths, 41
Château Léoville-Poyferré, 286 Clinton grape, 143
Château LEvangile wine, 37 Clos de Bèze wine, 47, 48
Château Magdelaine wine, 38 Clos de Tart wine, 49
 INDEX 417
Clos de Vougeot wine, 45, 46, 47, 48, 53, Crême de Noyaux, 250
319 Crême de Rose, 250
Clos des Lambrays wine, 49 Crême de Vanille, 250
Clos d u R o i wine, 49 Crême de Violette, 250
Clos Gaensbroennel wine, 64 Crême Yvette, 8, 245, 248
Clos Sainte-Odile wine, 64 Crillon Restaurant W i n e List, 289
close-outs, 324 Crimean grape, 172
Clover Club cocktail, 271 Cruse, Jean, 37
Cobblers, 268 Crusted Port wine, 123
Cocktail Hour, 283 Csopaki Furmint wine, 103
cocktails, 265-273, 309, 346, 357, 387 Cuban rum, 8 (illus.), 231-233, 319, 357,
Coffey still, 191 394
Cognac brandy, 2, 8 (illus.), 197, 198-203, culinary uses of wine, 280-284
232, 248, 276, 287, 317, 319, 390; cups, 268
m a p , 199 Curaçao, 250, 251, 268, 281
Cointreau, 248, 320 Czechoslovakia, beer, 255
Collares wine, 125 wine, 171, 172
Colli Albani wine, 82
cologne spirits, 192 Dadone, Antoine, 332 (illus.)
Colombar (Colombard) grape, 200, 204 Daiquiri cocktail, 271, 358
color in wine glasses, 304 Dalmatian Maraschino, 244
Coolers, 268 Damas grape, 175
Collins, 268 Danish wines, 186
Comblanchien wine, 46 Danziger Goldwasser, 245, 249, 250
Concord grape, 143, 189 Debroi Harslevelu wine, 103
congenerics in spirits, 192 Decanters, 324
consumer purchasing, 315 Decanting, 312
consumption, spirits, 2 de Gouey, Louis P., 283
wine, 2, 18, 19, 72, 167 Deidesheimer Kieselberg wine, 94
cook books, 283-284 Deidesheimer Leinhohle wine, 94
cordials, see liqueurs Delaware grape, 142, 145, 146
Cordial Medoc, 248 delivery slip, 340
Cordon Bleu Cook Book, 284 de Lur Saluces, Marquis Bertrand, 41,
corkage, 340 42
corn whiskey, 220, 221
Demerara rums, 231, 234, 235
Cortaillod wine, 170, 171
Demestica wine, 173
Cortese Bianco grape, 75, 78
Denmark, beer, 255
Cortese wine, 78
Akvavit, 237
Corvo wine, 72, 84
Dessert wines, 165
cost and profit charts, 370
Dhroner Hofberg wine, 95
Còte Chalonnais wine, 43
Diana grape, 142
Côte de Beaune wine, 43, 46, 47, 49, 50,
direct mail, 326
382 Director, A n n e , 284
Còte de Dijon wine, 381 distillation, 190, 191
Còte de Nuits wine, 43, 46, 47, 382 distilled gin, 225, 226, 227
Còte d'Or wine, 20, 21, 43, 46, 47, 381 distilled spirits, see spirits
Còte Ròtie wine, 67, 68 distillery, flowline chart of modern, 217
Côtes d u R h ô n e , France, 66 distributors' sales representative, 314
Counoise grape, 66 D . O . M . Benedictine, see Benedictine
Crême d e Ananas, 250 D o m Perignon, 14, 55
Crême d e Bananes, 250 D o n , the Beachcomber, 276, 358
Crême de Cacao, 9 (illus.), 248, 250, double column still, 216
270 D o u r o wine, 120
Crême de Cassis, 250, 251, 275 Drambuie, 248
Crême de Fraises, 250 Dreimanner grape, 171
Crême de Framboises, 250 Drink, 284
Crême de M e n t h e , 9 (illus.), 250, 251, drink list, 288
272, 309, 320 drinking habits, trend of, 266, 357
418 INDEX
Druitt, Robert, g8, 101 Food, 284
dry gin, 8, 226, 227, 273, 275, 392 Food and Drug Administration, U . S. D e -
dry wine, 6, 162 partment of Agriculture, 352
Dubonnet cocktail, 271 Forbidden Fruit, 8, 245, 248
Dubonnet wine, 135 Forditas T o k a y wine, 100
Duriff wine, 164 foreign shippers and their American
Dutch Liqueurs, 8 agents, 389-397
Dutchess grape, 142 Forster Jesuitengarten wine, 94
Forster Kirchenstück wine, 94
eau-de-vie de Charente, 201 fortified wines, 7, 10, 19, 335
Eau de Vie de Marc, 204 France, 1, 14, 17, 18, 21-70, 240, 241, 244,
Egg Nogs, 268 246, 251
Egri Bikaver wine, 102, 103 brandy, 8, 197-204
Elvira grape, 142 liqueur, 8, 244
Emilia, Italy, 75, 79 m a p , 22
rum, 236
Empire wines, 176, 177
wine, 21-70
England, 8, 61, 112, 234
English dry gin, see London dry gin Alsace (French R h i n e wine) , 6, 7, 21,
Enkircher Steffensberg wine, 89 (illus.), 63-66, 276, 317, 369, 389
95 Bordeaux, 6, 7, 21, 23-42, 249, 317,
Entre-Deux-Mers District, France, 24, 26 318, 369, 390
equipment for h o m e bar, 302 Burgundy, 21, 29, 42-54, 68, 69, 269,
Erdener T r e p p c h e n wine, 95 277, 282, 294, 312, 317, 318, 319, 369,
Ernest Irroy C h a m p a g n e wine, 287 381, 391
Est Est Est wine, 82 Champagne, 1, 6, 7, 11, 14, 17, 21, 23,
estate bottling, 46, 90, 95, 151 27. 33- 54-63. 270. 282, 288, 294, 310,
esters, 192, 376 317, 318, 319. 332. 335. 346, 369. 391
Eszencia T o k a y wine, 6, 100, 101 R h ô n e , 22, 66-69
Eumelan grape, 143 Frascati wine, 81
Fratelli Branca, 243
Falerno wine, 82 Fredonia grape, 143
Falernum syrup, 248 Freisa wine, 78
Falernum wine, 71, 82 French Vermouth, 7, 132, 133, 251, 267,
Federal Alcohol Administration, 120, 219, 270, 272, 275, 317, 318, 319, 395
231,. 352. 353- 354. 360 French Vermouth achampañado, 135, 176
Federal Alcohol T a x Unit, Internal Reve- fruit flavored gins, 228
nue Bureau, 242 Fruit liqueurs, 245
Federal control, 352 fruit wines, 186, 187
Federal T r a d e Commission, 353 fusel oils, 192, 218
Feher Szago grape, 157 furfural, 193
Fendant de Sion grape, 171 Furmint grape, 102, 103, 173, 177
Fendant du Vallois grape, 171 future, the, 355-358
Fendant R o u g e grape, 171
Fendant Vert grape, 171 Gaige, Crosby, 284
fermentation, 10-12, 15, 355, 371-376 Gamay, grape, 44, 50, 156
Fernet Branca bitters, 243 Gamay wine, 164
Fine Champagne brandy, 203 Garnier, P., Distillery, 247 (illus.), 248
Fine de la Maison brandy, 203 Garrett, Paul, 142
Fino Sherry wine, 110, 113, 115 Gattinara wine, 78
Fish House Punch, 276 Geneva gin, 225, 226, 229
501 Easy Cocktail Recipes, 283 Gentil wine, 65
Flagey-Echezeaux wine, 48, 49 Germany
Flagg, D . F., & C o . (illus.), 332 beer, 255
Fleurie wine, 50 Kirsch, 207
Flips, 269 wine, 6, 7 (illus.) , 18, 86-97, 383, 392
Flora di A l p i , 244 map, 86
Folle Blanche grape, 157, 177, 200, 204 Moselle, 6, 7, 87, 88, 94-95, 97. 369>
Folle Blanche wine, 163 384. 392
 INDEX 419
Rhine ( H o c k ) , 6, 7, 87, 92-94, 317, Gros-Cabernet grape, 25
369, 383, 392 Grossman all-purpose wine glass, 305,
Steinwein, 7, 87, 88, 95, 384 306
Sparkling, 97 Grunhäuser-Maximin-Grunhäuser-Her-
Gevrey-Chambertin wine, 48 renberg wine, 95
Gewuerz-Traminer wine, 65 Guiness stout, 261
Gilka Kiimmel, 245, 248 Gumpoldskirchner wine, 171
Gins, 8, 191, 194, 225-229, 267, 270, 271,
273. 275, 317, 318, 319, 332, 357, Haiti rum, 8, 231, 233
358, 387 Hallgartner Schonhell wine, 92
American, 8, 227 Haraszthy, Count Agoston, 150
compounded, 225 Harslevelu grape, 102, 103
distilled, 225, 226, 227 Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg wine, 92
English or L o n d o n dry, 8, 226, 392 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen wine, 92
flowline chart of modern gin distilling, H a u t Barsac wine, 40
228 H a u t Sauternes wine, 40
fruit flavored, 228 Hawaii, Okolehao, 242
Geneva, 225, 226, 229 rum, 233
Hollands, 8, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, Hawaiian Distilleries Ltd., 242
392 H a y d e n Department Store (illus.), 329
O l d T o m , 8, 22G Heering, Peter, 248
Schiedam, 225, 226, 229 Herbsaint, 241
Sloe gin, 225, 251, 275 Hermitage wine, 67, 68
Gin and bitters, 229 Hessian wine, see Rheinhesse wine
Gin and tonic, 229 highballs, 269
Gin Rickey, 273 Hochheimer wines, 87, 96
Gin sling, 278 Hochheimer Domdechaney wine, 92
Giro di Sardegna wine, 85 Hochheimer Kirchenstück wine, 92
glassware for the home, 306 Hock, see Rhine wine
Gloria Mundi wine, 130 Hock-type wine, 163, 177
glossary of terms, 398-407 Hohenwarther wine, 171
Golden Chasselas grape, 157 H o l l a n d liqueurs, 244
Gold Label rum, 232, 233, 270, 276 Hollands gin, 8 (illus.), 225, 226, 227, 228,
Goldwasser, 245, 249, 250 229, 392
g o m m e , 250 H o m e cellar, 336 (illus.), 337
Gonzales Byass brandy, 204 h o m e cocktail bar, 301, 302
Gourmet Cook Book, 283 Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes, 283
Gourmet Magazine, 283 hot buttered rum, 26g
Gourmet's Cellar, 319 hotel service, 308
Graacher Himmelreich wine, 95 bar, 308
Gragnano wine, 82 beverage control, 338-351
Grand Marnier, 248 dining room wine service, 308
Grands Crus, 23 Hungary, brandy, 207
grape juice, 10, 11, 12, 16, 371 wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 98-104, 392
Grape sugar, 11, 374 m a p , 99
Grappa brandy, 167, 204 T o k a y , 7, 17, 65, 98-102
Graves, 25, 26, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 68,
286, 319 Ile des Vergelesses wine, 49
Greco di Gerace wine, 83 I m m a t u r e Spirits Act of Great Britain,
Greece, brandies, 206 213
wines, 173-174 Imperial grape, 175
Grenache, grape, 66, 70 Insolia grape, 84
Grenache wine, 132 intemperance, 18
Grenadine, 250 interior displays, 331
Grenouilles (Chablis) wine, 52 Internal Revenue tax, 216, 222, 242
Grignolino grape, 75 inventory, 314, 349, 350
Grignolino wine, 78, 164 Io Furmint grape, 99
Grinzing wine, 171 Iona grape, 142
420 INDEX
Iran wines, 175 Leanyka grape, 102, 173
Irish type whiskey, 222 Leanyka Edes wine, 103
Irish whiskey, 8 (illus.), 198, 213, 214-215, Leanyka Szaraz wine, 103
221, 223, 317, 396 L e Corton wine, 49, 53
Isabella grape, 143 Legendre, 241
Israel wine, 179 leg-cutter wines, 64
issue of stock, 341 Lehmann, M . , Inc., 327
Italy, Grappa brandy, 204 Leigh, Olga de Leslie, 283
liqueurs, 8, 244 Lenoir grape, 143
map, 73 Les Basses-Vergelesses wine, 49
Les Charmes-Dessus wine, 52
Vermouth, 134, 135, 270, 271, 318, 319,
Les Clos wine, 52
395
Les Epenottes wine, 46
wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 18, 71-85, 392, 393
Les Fèes wine, 49
Ives grape, 143
Les Genevrières wine, 52
Jack Rose cocktail, 271 Les Grands Echézeaux wine, 45, 49
Jamaica rum, 8 (illus.), 231, 233-234, 269, Les Grèves wine, 49
274, 276, 319, 357, 394 Les Perrières wine, 52
James grape, 142 Les Richebourg wine, 45
Japan, saké, 9, 253, 254, 263 Les Rugiens-Bas wine, 49
Jerez, Spain, 11, 105, 108 (illus.), 109, 113 Les Saint-Georges wine, 49
(illus.) licensing, 353
Johannisberger Erntebringer wine, 92 Liebfraumilch wine, 93, 96
Johannisberger H ö l l e wine, 92 light beverage wine, 6, 19, 377
Josefshofer wine, 95 Liqueurs, 8, 9 (illus.), 192, 194, 244-252,
Jouffret, Edward, 323 268, 269, 280, 287, 309, 312, 317,
Juleps, 269 318. 319- 330. 332. 387- 393
Juliénas wine, 50 specific gravity of cordials, 251
Jura wine, 70 Liqueur d'Or, 249
Jurançon grape, 204 Liqueur Jaune, 250
Jurançon wine, 70 liqueur rums, 233
Liqueur Scotch, 214
Kabinett W e i n , 91 liqueurs in the kitchen, 251
Kadarka grape, 75, 102, 173 Liqueur Veritas, 241
Kaufman, Roger В., 338 Liqueur Vert, 250
Keknyelu grape, 102 liquor costs, 370
Kerr, Sophie, 284 Liquor, the Servant of Man, 195
Kirsch (Kirschwasser), 8, 207, 282, 319 Lisbon wine, 125
Kishbaba grape, 175 Listrao grape, 126
Kishmish grape, 175 Loch Katrine, Scotland, 213
Kitterle wine, 64 Loire wine, 69
Klevner wine, 65 Lombardy, Italy, 76, 77, 78, 79
Klösterneuberger wine, 171 London Dock rum, 234
Knipperlé wine, 64 London dry gin, 8, 226, 392
krausenating beer, 259 long drinks, 273
Kremser wine, 171 Longworth, Nicholas, 144
K ü m m e l , 238, 245, 249, 250, 320 losses, bar, 344
Kümmel Crystallize, 250 Louisiana rum, 233
Lower Burgundy wine, 50
Lacryma Christi wine, 82 low wines, 212, 234
lager beer, 254 Lucas, Dione, 284
La Goutte-d'Or wine, 52 Lunching and Dining at Home, 283
Lambrusco wine, 79 L u x e m b u r g wine, 88, 170
La Romanée wine, 48
La T â c h e wine, 48 Macabeo grape, 116
Latin America wine, 177 Mâçonnais and Beaujolais, 43, 46, 49, 51
Latium, Italy, 75, 81 (map) , 3 1 9
 INDEX 421
Macy liquor ads (illus.), 327 Mexico, pulque, 239
Madeira-type wine, 162 rum, 8, 192, 233
Madeira wine, 7 (illus.), 17, 126-131, 280, tequila, 8, 192, 239
281, 282, 309, 317, 318, 319, 357, 393 Midi wine, 133
map, 126 Mint Julep, 273
magazine advertising, 326 Mirabelle, 207
Malaga wine, 7, 116 Misch grape, 142
Malbec grape, 25, 80 Mission grape, 145, 157
Malmsey wine, 319 Mistelle, 133, 135
malt beverages, 9, 253-264 mixed drinks, 265-279, 309
malt whiskey, 220, 221 Mixes, 317
Malvasia di Lipari wine, 84 Montilla wine, 114, 115
Malvasia Fina grape, 121 Montrachet wine, 47, 52, 319
Malvasia grape, 75, 77, 80, 116, 128, 161 Monts de Milieu (Chablis) wine, 52
Malvasia wine, 85 Moore's Diamond grape, 143
Mandarine, 250 Morea wine, 173
Manhattan cocktail, 265, 271, 277 Morphy, Countess, 284
Mantuo Castellano grape, 107 Morgon wine, 50
Mantuo de Pila grape, 107 Morocco wine, 176
Manuel Fernandez brandy, 204 Moscatel wine, 117
Manzanilla Sherry wine, 6, 11, 113, 115 Moscatel Branco grape, 121
maps, 22, 25, 45, 51, 55, 63, 73, 86, 99, 106, Moscatel de Malaga wine, 116
119, 126, 141, 155, 199, 210 Moscatello wine, 82
Maraschino, 9 (illus.), 250, 268 Moscato wine, 84
Marc brandy, 204 Moscato-Bianco grape, 76
Marche, Italy, 75, 81 Moscato di Pantelleria wine, 84
Marco wine, 174 Moscato di Salento wine, 73, 83
Marcobrunn wine, 92 Moscato-Fior d'Arancio grape, 76
Margarita cocktail, 271 Moscato-Fior d'Arancio wine, 83
Marie Brizard & Roger, 241 Moscato-Semplice di Canelli grape, 76
Marino wine, 82 Moscato-Zibibbo grape, 76
Maroto grape, 128 Moscato Zucco wine, 84
Marsala-type wine, 162 Moselle wine, 6, 7 (illus.), 87, 88, 94-95,
Marsala wine, 7, 73, 83, 84, 277, 280, 309 97, 163, 317, 369, 384, 392
Martini cocktail, viii, 239, 266, 267 Moselblumchen wine, 95, 96
Martinique rum, 8, 231, 236, 394 Moulin-à-Vent wine, 50
Marvo, 277 Mourestel grape, 156
mash, 211, 217, 218 Mourestel wine, 164
Maslas wine, 100 Mourisco grape, 157
Mataro grape, 70, 156 Mour-vedre grape, 176
Mausenc grape, 70 mulled red wine, 277
Mavrodaphne grape, 173 Munchener beer, 255
Mavrodaphne wine, 172, 173 Muscadelle grape, 24, 38
Maywine, 276 Muscadine grapes, 140
Mead, 253 Muscat Brandy, 167
Medoc wine, 17, 24, 26, 36, 37 Muscat grape, 116, 157, 174
Menesi Rozsa wine, 172 Muscat de Frontignan grape, 157, 176
Menu and Wine List Making, 285-295 Muscat of Samos grape, 174
Merchandising, 315, 321-333 Muscat wine, 81, 116, 164
Merin d'Or wine, 32 Muscatel grape, 102
Merlot grape, 24 Muscatel wine, 165
Meslier grape, 204 Muskotaly grape, 102
Metaxa brandy, 206 Muskotaly wine, 103
Metzelthin, Pearl V „ 284 must, 11, 13, 374, 376, 377
Meursault wine, 46, 50, 52, 286
Meursault-Charmes wine, 52, 319 Nackenheimer Rothenberg wine, 93
Meursault-La Goutte-d'Or wine, 53 Napoleon Brandies, 203
422 INDEX
Nebbiolo grape, 76, 77, 78 Patrizi, Prince, 83
Nero grape, 75 peach brandy, 276
Netherlands peach liqueur, 251, 278
gin, 225, 226, 227, 228 peach wine, 187
liqueurs, 8 Pedro Domecq brandy, 204
Neutral spirits, 192, 219, 227 Pedro X i m e n e z grape, 107, 114, 116, 177,
N e w England rum, 231, 234, 235 223
newspaper advertising, 326, 328 Pedro X i m e n e z wine, 114
New Wide World Cook Book, 284 Pennsylvania rum, 233
Niagara grape, 143 Pernand wine, 49
Niersteiner wine, 96 Pernod, S. A., 241
Niersteiner D o m t h a l wine, 93 Perry, 186
Niersteiner Heiligenbaum wine, 93 Peru, Pisco Punch, 192, 205
Niersteiner H i p p i n g wine, 93 wine, 177
Niersteiner Rehbach wine, 93 Petit Pinot grape, 171
N o a h grape, 143 Petit Verdot grape, 24
North Africa wines, 176 Petite Sirah grape, 156
Norton grape, 143 Petite Sirah wine, 164
Nuits-Saint Georges wine, 48, 49 Peychaud's bitters, 243
Nussdorf wine, 171 Pfaffstätter wine, 171
Pfalz wine, see Rheinpfalz wine
Oeil de Perdrix wine, 54
Philadelphia Cook Book of Town and
Okolehao, 242 Country, 276, 283
Ojen, 251 Philippine Islands rum, 233
O l d fashioned cocktail, 272, 277 phylloxera vastatrix, 15, 45, 130, 136, 140
O l d T o m gin, 8, 226 Piceno Rosso wine, 81
Oloroso Sherry wine, 110, 113, 114, 115 Picon Punch, 249, 274
Ontario grape, 143 Picpoul grape, 66, 70, 176
opening sparkling wine, 310 Picpoul wine, 132
Piedmont, Italy, 75, 76, 77
opening wine, 309
Pierre Hotel, 294, 295
Oppenheimer Goldberg wine, 93
Piesporter wine, 96
Oppenheimer Herrenberg wine, g3
Piesporter Goldtropfschen wine, 95
Oppenheimer Sacktrager wine, 93
Piesporter Lay wine, 95
Oppenheimer Schlossberg wine, 93
Pilsner beer, 255
Orange Bitters, 267, 320
Pimm's Cups, 278
Orange Curaçao, 248, 251, 272
Pineau de la Loire grape, 69
order sheet, 344
Pinot grape, 1 1 , 46, 50, 84, 172, 177
Orvieto wine, 72, 81
Pinot-Bianco grape, 76
Oscar ( T s c h i r k y ) , 285, 287
Pinot Blanc grape, 44, 65, 157
Östreicher grape, 89
Pinot Blanc wine, 163
Ouzo brandy, 206, 245, 251
Pinot Gris grape, 171
over-proof spirit, 193
Pinot Gris wine, 65
Owen, Jeanne, 281, 283
Pinot-Nero grape, 76
Oxygenée, 241 Pinot Noir grape, 44, 56, 156, 179
Pinot Noir wine, 164
package stores, 336 Pinot Rouge wine, 65
packaging beer, 259 Pinot wine, 184
Pajarete wine, 114 Pique-poul grape, 204
Palomino grape, 107, 157 Pisco Punch, 192, 206
Parfait A m o u r , 251 Planter's Punch, 233, 234, 269, 274, 358
Paris Cuisine, 283 Platt, June, 284
Passeretta grape, 76
Passe-tous-grains wine, 45 Plaza Hotel, Camaguey, Cuba, 293
Passover wine, 186 Plaza Hotel, N e w York, 307
Pasteur, Louis, 15, 16, 17, 355, 376 Pleasant Valley W i n e Co., 144
pasteurization of beer, 259 p l u m brandy, 207
patent still, 191, 205, 206, 213, 216, 227, Pomace Brandy, 167
234 Pomerol, France, 24, 26, 35, 37, 38
 INDEX 423
Pommard wine, 46, 49 rectification tax, 228
pot still, 191, 201, 205, 206, 212, 215, 226, rectifying, 226, 227, 232
red wine, 6
834
Reed, A n n a Wetherill, 276, 283
Port-type wine, G, 165, 175, 177
regulatory bodies and laws, 352-354
Port wine, 6, 7, 17, 33, 118-124, 274, 309,
Repeal, 2, 46, 93, 116, 130, 138, 153, 187,
318, 319, 369
Port W i n e Sangaree, 274 204, 235, 285, 357, 359
Porter, 9, 254 requisition form, 339, 349
Portland grape, 143 restaurant bar glassware, 307
restaurant merchandising, 321-324
Portugal wine, 7, 33, 118-125, 317, 318,
Retsina wine, 173
393
returned goods, 342, 350
Bucellas, 125
revenue laws, 352
Collares, 125
Rheingau wine, 87, 88, 92, 94, 383
Lisbon, 125
Rheinhesse wine, 87, 88, 93, 94, 383
Port, 6, 7, 17, 33, 118-124, 274, 309, 318,
Rheinpfalz wine, 87, 88, 93, 94, 384
319, 369 R h i n e wine ( H o c k s ) , 6, 7 (illus.), 87, 88,
Portuguese brandy, 204
Portugieser grape, 172 92-94. 317. 369, 383. 392
Pouilly wine, 50, 69, 286 Rheingau, 87, 88, 92, 94, 383
Pousse Café, 246, 251 Rheinhesse, 87, 88, 93, 94, 383
Preignac wine, 26, 39, 40 Rheinpfalz, 87, 88, 93, 94, 384
prepared cocktails, 277 sparkling, 97
Presidente cocktail, 272 R h o n e wine, 22, 66-69
Preuse (Chablis) wine, 52 Ricasoli, Barone, 80
price lists, 328 Richebourg wine, 46
Prince Noir wine, 32 Rickeys, 269
Priorato, 116 Riesling grape, 88, 95, 102, 143, 157, 170,
profit and cost chart, 370 171, 172, 173, 177, 183
Profits, 296, 334 Riesling-type wine, 163, 175, 185
Prohibition, 2, 15, 116, 138, 152, 187, 235, Riesling wine, 64, 65, 318
251. 285, 358, 359 Riesling-Italiano grape, 76
proof, 193, 218 Rioja wine, 117
proof spirit, 193 Rizling grape, 102
proprietary brands, 246, 278 Rizling-Szemelt wine, 103
Prosecco wine, 79 R o b R o y cocktail, 272
Prunelle, 251 Rock and R u m , 278
Puerto Rican r u m , 8 (illus.), 231, 233, Rock and Rye, 278
271, 318, 319, 357, 394 Roger Smith Hotels wine list, 291
Pulia wines, 134 R o m a n é e wine, 48
Romanée-Conti wine, 44, 47
Puligny-Montrachet wine, 46, 48, 50, 52
Romanée-St. Vivant wine, 48
Pulque, 239
Romanèche-Thorins wine, 50
punches, 269, 274
Roney-Plaza Hotel, 323
purchase control, 342
Rose wine, 68, 165, 185, 394
purchasing, 313-320
Rosechátel wine, 32
Roussillon wine, 70
Quass, 253
Riidesheimer wine, 96
Quetsch, 207
Riidesheimer Burgweg wine, 92
quinined wine, 7, 132, 134
Riidesheimer Häuserweg wine, 92
Riidesheimer Hinterhaus wine, 92
Rabigato grape, 121
Riidesheimer Klosterkiesel wine, 92
radio advertising, 326, 328
Riidesheimer Schlossberg wine, 92
Rainwater Madeira wine, 127
R u m (ron, r h u m ) , 8, 191, 197, 230-236,
Raki, 206
Rappaport, Murray, 338 283, 309, 317, 318, 319, 332, 357, 387,
Rauenthaler Rothenberg wine, 92 394. 395
receiving slips, 339 Barbados, 213, 231, 394
Recipes of All Nations, 284 Batavia, Arak, 8, 190, 231, 235, 249
rectified spirits, 193 Cuban, 8, 231-233, 357, 394
424 INDEX
Rum (continued) Sauternes-type wine, 145, 163, 174, 177,
Demerara, 231, 234, 235 185
French, 236 Sauternes wine, 25, 26, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34,
Haiti, 8, 231, 233 39-42, 68, 294, 319, 381
Hawaii, 233 Sauternes wine, classified growths, 41
Jamaica, 8, 231, 233-234, 269, 274, 275, Sauvignon grape, 172, 177
276, 319, 257, 394 Sauvignon blanc grape, 25, 38, 69, 157
Louisiana, 232 Sauvignon blanc wine, 163
Martinique, 8, 231, 236, 394 Sauvignon vert grape, 157
Mexican, 8, 233 Savagnin grape, 70
New England, 231, 234, 235 Savuto wine, 83
Pennsylvania, 233 Savoy-Plaza Hotel, 307
Philippine, 233 Sazarac cocktail, 272
Puerto Rican, 8, 231, 233, 271, 318, 319, Schaumwein, 97
Schidrowitz, Dr. P., 212
357. 394 Schiedam gin, 225, 226, 229
Santo Domingo, 231, 233 Schloss Johannisberg wine, 91, 92
Trinidad, 231, 236, 394 Schloss Reinhardshausen wine, 92
Venezuela, 233 Schloss Vollrads wine, 92
Virgin Islands, 231, 235, 395 Schwartzwalder Kirsch, 207
West Indies, 8, 231, 233, 236 Scotch-type whisky, 221
rum and brandy sling, 278 Scotch whisky, 8 (illus.), 209-214, 218,
Rum Collins, 358
Rum Toddy, 274 221, 224, 248, 272, 312, 315, 317,
Rumania, Slivovitz, 207 318, 319. 357- 396
wine, 172, 173 Scotch Whisky, 212
Ruppertsberger Hoheburg wine, 94 Scuppernong grape, 139, 142
Russia, Quass, 253 seasonal promotion, 331
Vodka, 8, 192, 238, 309, 318, 319 Sekt wine, 97
wine, 172 selling, 321, 323
Zubrowka, 192, 238 Semillon grape, 25, 38, 69, 157
Ruwer wine, 87, 94, 95 Semillon wine, 163, 185
Rye whiskey, 8, 220, 221, 223, 224, 271, Semillon Sylvania grape, 172
272, 273, 315, 317, 318 Sercial grape, 127
Sercial wine, 130
Saar wines, 87, 95 Serra, Fray Junipero, 14, 149
Saccharomycetes, 10, 11, 27, 28, 58, 158, Shahoni grape, 175
Shand, P. Morton, 98, 101, 175
235, 330, 371, 372,. 374
Sack, see Sherry Sherry Cobbler, 274
sacramental wines, 116, 187, 188 Sherry Flip, 274
St. Emilion, France, 25, 26, 35, 37, 38 Sherry-type wine, 113, 158, 162, 165, 177
St. Emilion grape, 200 Sherry wine, 7, 11, 17, 105-116, 212, 213,
St. Julien wine, 26, 319 223, 232, 274, 277, 286, 309, 312,
St. Raphael wine, 135 317, 318, 319, 346, 357, 395
St. Regis Hotel, 290, 307 Sherry Wine & Spirits Co. (illus.), 331
Saintsbury, Professor, 67, 98 Shippers, foreign, 389-397
Saké, 9 (illus.), 253, 254, 263 Shiraz grape, 175
sales, 324, 332, 350 Sicily, Italy, 75, 76, 77, 83
sales staff, 321, 333 Side car cocktail, 272
Samarkand grape, 175 Sievering wine, 171
samshu, 253 Simon, Andre L „ 54, 127, 130, 132, 244,
Sangarees, 269 284, 285, 294, 295, 371
Sangiovese grape, 75, 77, 80 Singapore Sling, 275
Sangiovese wine, 79 Sirrah grape, 177
San Severo wine, 83 Sitges wine, 116, 117
Santo Domingo rum, 231, 233 Slings, 26g
Sardinia, Italy, 77, 84 Slivovitz, 8, 207
Sassella wine, 79 sloe gin, 226, 251, 275
Saumur wine, 69 Sloe Gin Fizz, 275
 INDEX 425
Sloe Gin Rickey, 275 Sultana grape, 174
snifters, 203 Sweden, Aquavit, 8, 237
Soave wine, 72, 79 Swedish Punsch, 236, 245
Solera system, 84, 110, 111 (chart), 133 Sweet Catawba wine, 145
(illus.), 114 sweet wine, 6, 161
Som grape, 173 Switzerland, Kirsch, 207, 208
Somloi Furmint wine, 103 wine, 170, 171
Southern Comfort, 278 Sylvaner grape, 88, 95, 102, 171, 172
Spain, brandy, 8, 204, 391 Sylvaner wine, 64, 65
wine, 6, 7, 11, 18, 105-117 Syrrah grape, 66
sherry, 7, 11, 17, 105-116, 212, 213, Szamorodni Tokay wine, 100, 101
223, 232, 274, 277, 286, 309, 312, Szilvany grape, 10a
317, 318, 319, 346, 357, 395 Szilvanyi Zold wine, 103
Sparkling wine, 6 Szurke-Barat wine, 102
Spâtlese wine, 89, 90, 93
special offerings, 328, 332 Tarragona wine, 116
Spiced wine, 71 tasting, 17
spirit still, 212 Tavel wine, 68, 69
Spirit whiskey, 221 taxes, 19
Spirits, 2, 6, 8, 190-196, 218, 356, 359 Tegea wine, 174
Akvavit, 8, 192, 237, 238, 309, 319, 389 temperance, 359
brandy, 2, 8, 109, 120, 191, 197-208, 218, Temperature, 261, 334, 373
245, 248, 268, 269, 272, 275, 277, Tequila, 8, 192, 239, 271
280, 281, 282, 309, 317, 332, 390, 391 Terentrez grape, 128
gin, 191, 194, 225-229, 267, 270, 271, 273, therapeutic value of spirits, 17, 194
275.,317,. 318,319, 358, 387 Tinta Francisca grape, 120
liqueurs o r cordials, 8, 9 (illus.), 268, Tinta grape, 128
269, 280, 287, 309, 312, 317, 318, Tinto-Mourvedre grape, 66
319, 330,. 332, 387, 393 Tischwein, 93
Pisco Punch, 192, 206 Toddies, 269
rum, 8, 191, 197, 230-236, 283, 309, 317, Tokay-type wine, 165, 175
318,319, 332, 357, 387, 394, 395 Tokay wine, 7 (illus.), 17, 65, 98-102, 392
tequila, 239 T o m Collins, 275, 317
Vodka, 8, 192, 239, 309, 319 T o m and Jerry, 269, 275
whiskey, 2, 8, 107, 114, 191, 209-224, top-fermentation, 258
276, 332, 356, 357, 388, 395-397 Torre Giulia wine, 83
Zubrowka, 192, 239 trade abbreviations, 407
Split, 323 trade practices, 253
split display basket (illus.), 324 Traminer grape, 65, 88, 157, 171, 172
Standard Wine Cook Book, 284 Trebbiano grape, 75, 77, 79, 80
State A.B.C. Board, 314 Trinidad rum, 231, 236, 394
State control, 354 Triple Sec, 9 (illus.), 248, 251, 271, 272,
Steinberger wine, 92 319, 320
Steinmantel, Germany, 87, 88 Trittenheimer Laurentiusberg wine, 95
Steinwein, 7 (illus.), 87, 88, 95, 384 Trockenbeeren wine, 93
still Champagne, 62 Trockenbeeren Auslese wine, 86, 90, 91,
stills, 191, 201, 205, 216 96
Stinger, 272 Tschirky, Oscar, 33, 285, 287
stocking the cellar, 340 Tunisia wine, 176
storage and cellar treatment, 334-337, 359 Turiga grape, 120
store advertising, 324 Turkey wines, 175
merchandising, 324 turnover, 314
policy, 326 Tuscany, Italy, 75, 77, 79
stout, 9, 254, 261
Strega, 8, 245, 249 Ugni blanc wine, 163
Supply, The Care and the Sale of Wine, uisgebaugh, 209
The, 371 uisgebeatha, 209
supplies for home bar, 302 Umbria, Italy, 81
426 INDEX
Unicum Bitters, 243 Vionnier grape, 66
Union of South Africa wines, 176 Virgin Islands rum, 231, 235, 395
unit control ticket, 349, 351 Virginia Dare wine, 142
United States wine, 3, 14, 18, 33, 46, 112, Vodka, viii, 8, 192, 238, 273, 309, 318,
116, 136-138 319
American, 6, 15, 18, 36, 138, 139-148 Vodka Martini, 267
California, 149-169 Vodka Rouser, 273
U.S. Dept. of Insular Affairs, 235 Vöslau wine, 171
Uruguay wine, 178 Vosne-Romanée wine, 47, 48
Usher, Andrew & Co., 213 Vouvray wine, 21, 69

Valaer, Peter, 212 Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, 33, 285, 286, 287,

Valmur (Chablis) wine, 52 294, 295, 307
Valpolicella wine, 79 Walker, John & C o . , 330 (illus.)
Valtelina wine, 79 wash still, 212
Van der H u m , 249 Wasserbillig wine, 170
van Dyke, Isaak Peter, 286 water for whiskey, 212, 216
VanderBeek, Gordon, 338, 346, 347 W a t t , Alexander, 283
Vaudésir (Chablis) wine, 52 Wehlener Sonnenuhr wine, 95
Vaulorents (Chablis) wine, 52 W e s t Indies r u m , 8 (illus.) , 231, 233, 236
Veltliner grape, 171 wheat whiskey, 220, 221
Veltlines wine, 79 whiskey, 2, 8, 107, 114, 191, 194, 209-224,
Vendôme liquor shop (illus.), 332 276, 332, 356, 357, 388, 395-397
vendors invoices, 351 American R y e and Bourbon, 8, 215-223,
venencia, 110, 113 (illus.) 272, 273, 277, 309, 315, 317, 318,
Venetia, Italy, 75, 77, 79 319, 356
Venezuela rum, 233 Canadian, 8, 221, 223
Verdelho grape, 121, 127 Irish, 8 (illus.), 213, 214-215, 221, 224,
Verdicchio di Jesi wine, 81 317. 396
Vergelesses wine, 49 Scotch, 8 (illus.) , 209-214, 219, 221, 224,
Vergennes grape, 142 248, 272, 312, 315, 317, 318, 319,
Vermouth Cassis, 135, 275 357, 396
Vermouth, 317 types permitted by the F.A.A., 219
French, 7 (illus.), 132-134, 251, 267, Whiskey sling, 278
270, 272, 275, 317, 318, 319, 395 Whiskey Smash, 276
Italian, 134, 135, 270, 271, 272, 318, 319, Whiskey Sour, 273
395 W h i t e Okolehao, 242
others, 135, 163 W h i t e Port wine, 124
Vernaccia del C a m p i d a n o wine, 85 white wine, 6
Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine, 81 Williams, Andrew, 330 (illus.)
Vernaccia wine, 75, 77, 79 wild beer, 261
Vielle Cure, 249 W i l e , Julius, 63, 64, 198, 247
Vieux Chateau Certan wine, 35, 37, 38 W i l e , Julius, Sons & Co., 324 (illus.)
Villány-Pécs wine, 102, 104 Wiltinger Scharzberg wine, 95
Vin de liqueur, 133 Wiltinger Scharzhofberg wine, 95
Vin Nobile, 81 Wiltinger Schlangengraben wine, 95
Vin Ordinaire, 83 window displays, 329
Vin Rosé, 68, 165, 185, 394 W i n e , 2, 6, 7, 10-189
Vin Santo, 81 Algeria, 132, 176
Vinho Estufado, 129 Argentina, 178-181
Vinho Generoso, 130 aromatized, 7, 132-135
V i n h o Trasfugado, 130 Australia, 177
Vinho Verde, 125 Austria, 171
Vini dei Castelli R o m a n i , 81 Brazil, 177
Vino de color Sherry, 112, 116 Chile, 181-185
Vino de Pasto Sherry, 113, 115 China, 175
vintage chart, 369 Czechoslovakia, 171, 172
Vintage Port, 122, 335 Denmark, 186
 INDEX 427
France, 1, 14, 17, 18, 21-70, 240, 241, Wine Cook Book, The, 284
244, 246, 251 wine-cups, 277
fruit, 186-187 wine glasses, color in, 304
Germany, 6, 7, 18, 86-97, 383, 392 wine in cans, 356
Greece, 173-174 wine in cask, 335
Hungary, 6, 7, 98-104 wine list, how to use, 285
Iran, 175 wine list making, 285-295
Israel, 174-175 Wine Lover's Cook Book, A, 283
Italy, 6, 7, 18, 71-85, 392, 393 wine, order of service, 292
Luxemburg, 88, 170 wine stewards, 338
Madeira, 7, 17, 126-131, 280, 281, 282, Wines and Spirits, 244
W i n e s , forms for listing, 294
309, 317, 318, 320, 357, 393
With a Jug of Wine, 284
Morocco, 176
W o o d , Morison, 284
Peru, 177
W o o d e d Port wine, 123
Portugal, 7, 33, 118-125, 393
worm condenser, 191
quick guide, 361-369
W o r m e l d i n g e r Riesling wine, 170
Rumania, 172
wort, 16, 211, 216, 226, 254, 256, 257,
Russia, 172
258
sacramental, 116, 187-188
Spain, 6, 7, 11, 18, 105-117 Würzburger Leiste wine, 96
Switzerland, 170, 171 W ü r z b u r g e r Stein wine, 96
Tunisia, 176
Turkey, 175 yeast, 10, 11, 12, 13, 41, 58, 70, 110, 158,
Union of South Africa, 176 211, 216, 217, 232, 235, 256, 257,
United States, 3, 14, 18, 33, 46, 112, 116, 355
136-138 Yugoslavia wine, 172
American, 6, 15, 18, 38, 138, 139-
148 Zeltinger Schlossberg wine, 95
California, 149-169 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr wine, 95
Uruguay, 178 Zibibbo grape, 84
Yugoslavia, 172 Zinfandel grape, 156, 157
W i n e and Food Society, 53, 285, 294 Zinfandel wine, 164
wine as food, 17, 18 Zombie, 235, 276, 258
wine and spirit cask standards, 385 Zwack, J., & Co., 245
wine and spirit trade, 360 Zubrowka, 192, 238
wine cellar, 336, 339 Zymase, 371, 373