Davis StopKickPDF
Davis StopKickPDF
Davis StopKickPDF
Bruce Lee's Art has many ways to halt an Attacker in his tracks
By Lamar Davis II
Jeet Kune Do, the martial art taught and practiced by the late Bruce Lee, is an extremely
effective self-defense method. It is based on three main principles: simplicity, directness
and a non-classical attitude in training and execution of technique.
Jeet Kune Do is Chinese for "way of the intercepting fist." The theory among the system's
practitioners is to stop or intercept the opponent's attack before it can be completed. This
dissipates much of the blow's force and destroys the attacker's momentum. Such a
defense also leaves the attacker stunned and momentarily open to a counterattack.
Although Jeet Kune Do is the "way of the intercepting fist," a foot can just as easily serve
as the tool of interception in a defense. Such a tactic is referred to as a "stop-kick" in Jeet
Kune Do. A stop-kick can be utilized to intercept or jam virtually any forward movement
by the opponent.
The standard method of kicking involves first chambering the leg by raising the knee
prior to delivery. The kick is then delivered to the intended target from this cocked
position. Afterward, the leg is returned to the chambered position before the kicker places
the foot back on the ground. The traditional method of kicking therefore involves four
stages: chamber, kick, rechamber and return to a ready stance.
Conversely, Jeet Kune Do kicking techniques involve two simple steps: the kick and the
return to a ready stance. There is no conscious or noticeable chambering of the kicking
leg. The kick simply travels in a direct line from wherever the foot is to the target.
When Lee introduced his innovative kicking method, some skeptics questioned how
much power could be generated in such kicks. Lee explained, however, that the power
was generated from the kicker's body, not from the chambering of his leg. If you learn to
utilize your waist and hips properly, and position your support leg correctly, power
comes all the way from the ground, up through the support leg, through the hips and
waist, and out the extended kicking leg.
Another element that adds to the power and effectiveness of Jeet Kune Do kicks is the
highly mobile footwork that is often incorporated with the techniques. The footwork
pattern chosen by the Jeet Kune Do exponent is based on the distance between himself
and his opponent(s). All Jeet Kune Do footwork is simple and direct, requiring minimum
effort while achieving maximum results.
The most common footwork patterns used in stop-kicking are a shuffle forward or
backward with the rear foot. Occasionally, for extremely aggressive stop-kicking, the
"pendulum shuffle" is employed. In the "forward pendulum" (sometimes referred to as
the "slide-and-step"), the Jeet Kune Do stylist's rear foot slides rapidly up to the front foot
and taps it lightly. The front foot then shoots out directly toward the target with the kick.
Jeet Kune DO practitioners always place the side they hit hardest with closer to the
opponent. Most kicks are delivered with the front leg, thus lessening the striking distance
of your power weapons and eliminating telegraphic motion.
One of the major strategies in Jeet Kune Do is using your longest weapon to hit the
opponent's closest target, and this principle definitely comes into play in stop-kicking. If
you can get off a stop-kick to the opponent's front leg as he steps in to attack, by all
means do so. As you replant your kicking leg, deliver a follow-up lead-hand strike into
the opponent's face.
There are basically two types of stop-kicks: passive and aggressive. In addition, although
technically not a stop-kick, the lead leg jam- in which you use your forward knee to stop
an opponent's forward progress - serves a similar purpose. After jamming, you can either
maintain you guard, attack simultaneously with your lead hand, or trap with your rear
hand.
Passive stop-kicks are often referred to as "leg obstruction" techniques. To execute a leg
obstruction, you simply raise your foot to a position where it blocks the path of the
opponent's step or kick. The faster the opponent is moving the more he hurts himself.
This is why the technique is referred to as a passive stop-kick - the opponent's
momentum, not yours, decides the effect of the stop-kick. The primary targets are the
opponent's shin or knee.
Conversely, when attempting an aggressive stop-kick, you forcefully kick into the path of
your opponent's step, kick or movement. In this case, you are trying to inflict as much
damage as possible to the opponent. Sometimes this technique alone can stop a fight.
Aggressive stop-kicks are used for more threatening situations. The most common targets
for this technique are the opponent's shins, knees, thighs, groin, hip joints, spine, ribs and
solar plexus.
For a stop-kick to be effective, it must be executed directly from the on-guard position
and delivered without major preparation. Timing is of the essence, and if you have to first
set up for the stop-kick, it will arrive too late to be of much use.
Stop-kicks are basically derivations of normal kicks and can be adapted from the side,
oblique, straight, inside angular, outside angular, and even back and roundhouse kicks.
As mentioned earlier, it is a good idea to include a lead hand attack as your replant your
leg after a stop-kick. For example, the finger jab, straight punch and backfist all work
well with the side stop-kick. The backfist works well in combination with the rear-leg
oblique stop-kick. The finger jab, straight punch and backfist are favored when using the
straight stop-kick. The straight punch and finger jab are effective follow-up techniques to
an outside angular stop-kick. And the straight punch, finger jab and backfist work well in
conjunction with the inside angular stop-kick.
A process known as "tracking the knees" helps you determine which stop-kick
appropriate for a specific situation. It is physically impossible for an opponent to attempt
a kick without moving his knee, and you can prepare for it be "tracking" his knee
movement. If you see the opponent's knee begin to rise, you know that a kick is on the
way and you can quickly launch a stop-kick to the knee, shin or, in some instances, the
inside or outside of the thigh.
By donning baseball catchers' shin/knee guards, or street hockey shin guards, you can
safely practice stop-kicks with a partner. It is a good idea to wear martial arts foam shin
guards underneath the other for added comfort and protection, Martial chest protectors
can be worn when practicing stop-kicks to the opponent's midsection and rib area.
Caution should always be exercised when working on stop-licks with a partner, and it is a
good idea to start slow and kick lightly, then increase the speed of the techniques as
control improves. Remember, you're trying to develop effective combinations and hone
accuracy. Use the heavy bag to develop kicking power.
There are many good drills for developing stop-kicks. One involves having your partner
stand directly in front of you with shin/knee protection on both legs. Face him in a ready
stance with your power side forward. As your partner begins to step, deliver a side stop-
kick to his front shin or knee and try to connect just before or just after his foot returns to
the ground. Start the drill off slowly and build up speed as skill and control increase.
Have your partner vary his timing so that you are forced to react to "what is" rather than
"what should be."
A second stop-kick drill has both partners facing off in on-guard positions with their
power sides forward and shin guards on their rear legs. Partners then alternate throwing
rear-leg straight kicks at each other. As one partner kicks, the other employs a front-leg
side stop-kick. As always when practicing stop-kicks, the partners should start slowly and
build up speed as skill and control improve. This drill can also be practiced using a rear-
leg oblique stop-kick against a rear-leg straight kick. Partners should be sure to vary the
timing of their techniques in both drills.
A third stop-kick drill begins with both partners positioned exactly as in the previous
drill. This time, however, partners alternately deliver rear-leg roundhouse kicks at each
other. The defender responds with an outside angular stop-kick.
Partners should place shin guards on their power leg for the following drill, in which they
alternately deliver rear-leg straight kicks at each other while countering with front-leg
side stop-kicks. Although this exercise sounds similar to the second drill, the partners are
in opposite leads this time. As always, start slowly and cautiously, and build up speed as
you go. This drill can also be performed using a rear-leg straight kick.
A fifth stop-kick drill has both partners positioned exactly as in the previous exercise. As
one partner executes a rear leg roundhouse kick, the other counters with a front leg inside
angular stop-kick. Be sure to begin slowly and build up speed as you progress, and
remember to alternate leads every repetition, with the partner who is positioned power-
side forward delivering the stop-kick.
For the following drill, only one partner dons shin guards, and he begins executing
straight or roundhouse kicks with his rear leg. The other partner tracks his opponent's
knee movement and executes the appropriate stop-kick. To add variety tot he drill, the
partner wearing shin guards can simply step toward his opponent rather than kick. The
defender reacts by stop-kicking the stepping leg. The attacker should vary both his kicks
and their timing to make the drill more realistic.
Another drill finds both partners wearing shin guards on both legs as they exchange kicks
and stop-kicks in freestyle fashion. This advanced stage of stop-kick training most
closely resembles actual sparring. To add variety to this drill, partners can occasionally
evade the opponent's kick rather than execute a stop-kick.
Other advanced drills include stop-kicking front-leg kicks, as well as practicing follow-up
strikes after stop-kicks. Focus gloves can be employed at this time to add realistic impact
to the hand strikes.
A wooden dummy can serve as a substitute for a training partner, allowing you to
practice stop-kicks on the device's stationary leg. This apparatus is especially good for
practicing the side, oblique and straight stop-kicks.
A heavy bag can also be used to work on stop-kicks. First push it away from you then
smack it with a side stop-kick as it swings back at you. This drill simulates an opponent's
movement to punch or grab you, and also develops stop-kick power and timing.