ROARSOME DUNGAREES

A classic slim fit, cloth nappy friendly

dungarees PDF Sewing pattern for ages
Tiny Baby to age 4-5 years

©Sparkle & Roar 2016

 Description
This pattern has a classic straight cut fit with a gusset and slim fit legs. There is space
for two set of poppers on the front shoulder tabs to allow for differing heights and
growth. The bodice section is lined with a facing to provide a neat edge around the top
seam. You can also use binding along the top edging for a more unique look.

Additional Features:

♥♥  Pockets
♥♥  Snap opening legs
♥♥  Binding on top edging (two variations)
♥♥  Shorts option

FABRIC OPTIONS:
Use fabric with at least a 25% stretch value for the main dungarees and facing. You can
use cotton interlock if you would like to but you’ll get slightly less stretch and ease in the
fit. You can use the same fabric for the cuffs or ribbing, if using interlock for the cuffs be
sure to add an extra 1cm to all seams to allow for the lack of stretch in the fabric. This pat-
tern is not drafted for use with woven fabrics.

SEAM ALLOWANCE:
There is a 7mm (0.25 inch) seam allowance included in the pattern. This means you can
serge along the edge of the fabric without trimming any fabric off with the blade.

PREWASH:
Remember to prewash all fabrics to allow them to preshrink and to remove any factory resi-
dues.

NOTIONS:
You will need jersey fabric and a small amount of woven cotton for the stabiliser pieces, a
sewing machine using a zigzag or stretch stitch or an overlocker. If using a sewing machine
remember to use ballpoint or stretch needles and polyester thread.

Snaps and a snaps fixing tool (Possibly long prong snaps for the leg snaps variation)
2 x Male Snaps per back tab and 4 x female snaps for front tabs
For the leg snaps variation: at least 5 of both male and female snaps for the Tiny-1m and
0-3M sizes and at least 7 sets of snaps for 3m + sizes. Possibly more for the bigger sizes
depending on how close you would like to space the snaps.

GET IN TOUCH: If you’re stuck at any point, feel free to get in touch :)
[email protected]

and make sure you join the facebook group to share pics and discuss patterny things
https://www.facebook.com/groups/sparkleandroarpatterns/
LEGAL STUFF: I can’t really stop anyone from copying or distributing this pattern but I assume that you’ll be
cool and follow the rules and stuff. I’ll list the legal things anyway just for info :) Please don’t copy or share
the pattern without prior agreement. If you are going to make items to sell with the pattern it would be
awesome if you referenced the pattern but I understand that doesn’t always happen so I’m not going to get
hung up on that. I don’t have the money to sue you if you decide to open a massive sweatshop and produce
millions of items using my pattern but again I’m kind of trusting everyone to just be a nice person and hoping
you won’t do that.
1
©Sparkle & Roar 2016
 SIZE GUIDE:
Use these measurements to work out which size pattern to make. These are the MAXIMUM
measurements that each size should fit up to.

You can always adjust the cuff length or make the leg length longer if you need to. Oth-
er adjustments you can make is trimming down the sides if you have a skinny, tall child or
reducing the leg and front tab length if you have a shorter child. And because you’re using
stretchy, jersey fabric there is a lot of leeway in the fit.

NOTE: If your child is near the top measurements or on the border between two sizes then
size up to be safe.

SIZE Crotch to
HEIGHT WEIGHT CHEST INSEAM
Shoulder
cm inches kg lbs cm inches cm inches cm inches
Tiny-1M 54 21 4.2 9 38 15 16 6.25 32 12.6
0-3M 58 22.8 6 13.3 44.5 17.5 18 7.1 36 14.2
3-6M 62 24.5 8 17.6 46 18.1 21 8.25 39 15.4
6-12M 74 29 10 22 49 19.3 27 11 43 17
1-2Y 86 34 13 28.6 52 20.5 33.5 13.25 47 18.5
2-3Y 92 37 16 35 54 21.5 36 14.25 52 20.5
3-4Y 98 39 17.6 39 56 22.25 40 16 57 22.5
4-5Y 106 42 21 46.2 60 24 44 17 62 24.5

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS:
Calculated on knit fabric of 150cm width:
You can use the same fabric for the facing without adding additional meterage or I have
calculated the facing separately in case you want to use a contrasting fabric.

metric Prem/NB 0-3/ 6-12m 1-2y 2-3y 3-4y 4-5y

3-6m
Dungarees 50cm 50cm 60cm 80cm 90cm 100cm 110cm
Shorts version 40cm 50cm 50cm 60cm 70cm 80cm 90cm
Facing/ Pockets 20cm 20cm 30cm 30cm 40cm 40cm 45cm
Cuffs/ Binding 20cm 20cm 20cm 30cm 30cm 30cm 40cm

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 2

HOW TO PRINT THE PATTERN:
Print all pattern pieces at 100% making sure that no scaling has been set. The pattern is
designed to be printed on A4 paper in portrait format.

In Acrobat Reader you can click on the

layers option and choose which layers you
want to view and print. Leave them all
checked to print all or uncheck the sizes
you don’t want to print.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 3

ARRANGING:
Arrange the printed pages as shown on this diagram then stick them together making
sure you line up the lettered squares on each page. You can then cut your pattern
pieces out. You can reuse the top half front and back A pieces as the facing pieces
as they are exactly the same size if you would like to save on paper. If you want to
bluetack the top to bottom half pieces cut an extra cm above the bottom half join line,
this will help you be able to add and remove the top half with ease :)

IMPORTANT:
ALWAYS MEASURE THE TEST SQUARE TO MAKE SURE YOUR PATTERN HAS PRINTED AT THE
CORRECT SCALE

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 4

CUTTING YOUR PATTERN PIECES:

The pattern pieces are split into top and bottom halves corresponding to whichever option
you would like to make:

TOP HALF A - FACING OPTION - Front and back pieces

TOP HALF B - BINDING OPTION - Front and back pieces
BOTTOM HALF C - REGULAR LEG OPTION (the front and back are the same size so you can
print two copies and stick to the top half or print one copy and blue tack to whichever top
half you are using)
BOTTOM HALF D - LEG BINDING OPTION - (the front and back are the same size so you can
print two copies and stick to the top half or print one copy and blue tack to whichever top
half you are using)

Fit the top and bottom half of the pattern pieces together
as shown here. You can stick them together or you can blue
tack them and mix and match as you go.

The Top Half A and Facing pieces are exactly the same size
so you can reuse these pieces rather than printing out the
facing pieces if you’d like to save paper.

If you are going to stick the pieces together permanently

you will need to print out 2 copies of the bottom half you are
using.

NOTE ABOUT LEG SNAPS OPTION: In my instructions I use the

snap leg bottom half and fold the binding trim to the inside
of the leg (go have a quick look if that sounds confusing). If
you would prefer to have the snap trim showing and outisde
of the leg you can use the regular bottom half and attach
the snap trim binding but don’t fold it back to the inside or
the leg will end up being too narrow.

The pocket cut line only

corresponds to the FRONT
of the dungarees and only if
you are
making the pockets varia-
tion. Your cut out front will
look as below if you are
making pockets. If not then
DO NOT cut out along the
pocket line. ALSO DO NOT
CUT OUT THE POCKET LINE ON
THE DUNGAREE BACK PIECE.

CUFFS AND PIECES:

All the cuffs, binding and trim pieces are included in the pattern already but there is also
a table of measurements for these pieces included at the end if you would prefer to use
them.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 5

 Construction
POCKETS OPTION:

Cut out along the pocket line on the

dungaree front only and transfer the
marking to the fabric piece. This will
show you where to place the top edge of
the pocket piece.

Place both pocket pieces onto the

dungaree front with the right side
of the pocket against the wrong
side of the dungaree front lining up
the top of each pocket piece with
the markings. Then stitch along
where the red lines indicate. You
can use a zigzag stitch or a
coverstitch to sew the pocket
pieces on.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 6

 Flip the dungaree front right side
up. It should look something like
this.

Take the pocket binding pieces and

fold them wrong sides together
along the long edge.

Pin the pocket binding to the raw edge

of the pocket opening like this leaving
at least 1.5cm of
binding over each edge. You should
have to stretch the binding slightly to
fit around the pocket opening. This will
give it a good shape once it’s sewn in
place.

Sew along the raw edges of the pocket

opening and binding.

Follow the same process for the other

pocket.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 7

 Your finished pocket should look
something like this. :)

NOTE: The reason I attach the pocket

piece first before the binding is that it’s
easier to get a neat, flat pocket this
way. If you feel more confident that
you can still get a neat, flat pocket and
would prefer to attach the binding piece
first feel free to do so :)

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 8

FACING OPTION:

Lay the front facing on top of the dungaree

front right sides together and pin as shown

Pin the piece of woven stabiliser fabric onto

the dungaree front on the wrong side.

Then do the same for the dungaree back

and back facing pieces.

NOTE: The reason I pin the stabiliser to the

front wrong side is that when you turn the
tabs right side around the bulk of the seam
will be on the facing side of the tab and
will give neater front corners :)

Sew the front facing to the dungaree

front piece as shown. Do the same for
the back dungaree pieces and facing.
Leave the top of the tab unsewn, we’ll
do this on a sewing machine with a
straight stitch in a bit.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 9

 TIP: When sewing the facing to the
dungaree piece sew it from the
dungaree side and not the facing side,
this will help make sure you catch the
piece of woven interfacing :)

Stitch the tab top with a straight stitch Then trim the raw edge off the tab top
approximately 1cm from the raw edge so it will be nice and neat when you
remembering to back stitch on each turn it right side out.
end.

Turn the tabs the right way

around, it should look something
like this, do the same for the
front and the back pieces.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 10

 Lay the dungarees back piece with the
right side facing up and flip the facing
up as shown.

Lay the dungarees front piece on top of the

back piece with the facing also flipped up. Line
up the raw edges down each side. You’re going
to sew down each side starting at the edges
of the facing that’s flipped up all the way down
to the ankle. The process is the same for the
shorts version :)

POCKETS: If you’ve made the pockets

version make sure you catch the
binding ends and pocket piece edge
when sewing down the dungaree sides.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 11

Tip: Make sure you line up the stitched
lines on each side before sewing down
the dungaree sides.

Your sewn up sides should look like Then flip down the facing like this.
this.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 12

 There is a 2cm hem allowance on the
facing. You can pin it and hem it if you
want to. It’s not essential but helps it
stop curling up after washing.

Make sure you don’t sew the facing to

the actual dungarees though. :)

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 13

 Pin the facing inside the dungarees
with the seams matching up. Then
we’re going to do a top stitch on it
to keep the facing inside the
dungarees so it doesn’t keep riding
up.

This is how I top stitch the

facing down, you don’t
have to do it the same
way, you can always just
sew a straight stitch down
along the side seam to
secure the facing but I’ll
explain my method.

If your machine has a joint straight and zigzag stitch like mine then I have to move the feed
dogs out of the way, as if you’re going to sew a button on or do free motion. Then set the
machine to a wide zigzag stitch and place the needle over the side seam. Then do a few sets
of stitches directly over that side seam :) (Remember to put the feed dogs back up when
you’re done)

If your machine has a standalone zigzag setting you can set the stitch length to zero and it
should achieve the same affect without having to move the feed dogs out of the way :)

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 14

ATTACHING THE GUSSET:

Pin the midpoint of the gusset

to the mid point of the dungaree
legs raw edge. It’s easiest to do
this with the gusset and dungaree
right sides together. There is a top
and bottom to the gusset. Pin the
top to the dungaree front if you’re
making the regular leg version or
the bottom point to the dunga-
ree back if you are making the leg
snaps version.

Flip the dungarees over to the

wrong side and continue to pin the
rest of the gusset to the dungaree
leg raw edge much like you would
pin a sleeve to a t-shirt. It’s a bit
fiddly but try not to stretch either
edge when pinning.

Then stitch the gusset in place

along the raw edges.

Your stitched on gusset should

look a bit like this. This is the
shorts version but the process is
the same for the long legs version
and for the leg snaps version.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 15

REGULAR LEG VERSION ONLY (for leg snaps version skip this step and proceed
to LEG SNAPS)

Pin the dungaree back raw edge to the dungaree front where you just
attached the gusset. Then stitch along this raw edge.

Close up of the raw edge of the

gusset when attaching to the
dungaree back raw edge. It makes
a neater finish on the gusset if you
fold the seam down like this
rather than folding the seam back
on itself.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 16

 Your finished gusset should look a bit like this. It is a tricky and fiddly thing
to sew but the more you do it the better it looks :) You can always stitch
over it again if it went a bit wrong somewhere :)

THE CUFFS (regular leg and shorts):

How to attach the cuffs for the regular leg and regular shorts version. This
does not apply to the leg snaps version - skip ahead to LEG SNAPS.

Make sure you’ve cut the cuffs out on the first line on the cuff pattern
pieces. Fold the cuff pieces right sides together with the grain going vertical.
Then stich down the raw edge of each side making a little tube.

Then fold the cuff tube wrong sides together as shown bottom right.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 17

With the dungarees wrong side out still you’re going to put each cuff
inside the dungaree leg openings and line up the raw edges of the cuffs and
dungaree legs together. The process is the same for the shorts and long leg
versions.

Pin the raw edges together then stitch along that edge to secure the cuff to
the dungaree leg opening.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 18

If you turn the dungarees right side out your cuffs should look a bit like this
:)

LEG SNAPS:

You should have your dungarees sewn up on the sides and the gusset
already attached to the BACK of the dungaree leg edge. So we start with
something that looks a bit like this.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 19

 Get your cuff pieces and fold them
wrong sides together width ways.
DO NOT STITCH YOUR LEG CUFFS
BEFORE ATTACHING THEM TO THE
DUNGAREE LEGS.

Pin the cuff to the inside of the leg

edge starting at the edges first
then pin the midpoint of the cuff
then stretch the cuff slightly and
pin the rest of it to the leg raw
edge. You will then need to stitch
along the raw edges to secure the
cuff to the leg edge.

Your stitched on cuffs should look a bit

like this :)

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 20

 Turn the dungarees right side out so
you’re looking at the legs like this.

Fold the leg snaps trim wrong sides together along the length of the fabric.

Pin the snap trim right sides together to

the raw edge of the dungaree leg
openings leaving at least 1cm over the
edge of the ankle cuff like this.

Pin the midpoint of the snap trim to the

midpoint of the dungaree legs and then
stretch the trim a little and continue to
pin the remaining trim edge to the leg
edge. Stitch the trim to the leg edge.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 21

 It was really difficult to get a picture of the full snap trim pinned as it just
looked confusing. This is the result you are looking for once you’ve sewn the
trim edge to the dungarees leg edge. The the same for both legs.

Fold the overhanging piece of leg trim Then fold the leg snap trim back over
back up on itself. You may want to trim towards the wrong side of the dungarees
this piece shorter if you feel it’s going to leg. You can either continue to pin the
create too much bulk when you come to trim and then top stitch it in place or add
attach the leg snaps. the leg snaps straight onto the legs going
through the trim. That will also hold it in
place.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 22

 Here is the leg snap trim pinned
back towards the wrong side of
the dungarees legs.

I topstitctch the leg snap trim

to the wrong side. It definite-
ly helps keep the snap trim in
place and evenly stretched when
topstitched. You don’t have to
do this but it might not have
the same finished and evenly
stretched look if you don’t.

If you don’t top stitch you will

need to take special care to
stretch the snap trim even-
ly when applying the snaps to
avoid any bunching. You will also
need to place a securing/ darn-
ing stitch onto the leg snap trim
that you have folded up to the
inside.

Apply the leg snaps starting at each cuff,

and one snap on the midpoint then space
the remaining snaps evenly down each leg.
You can line up the snaps on each side by
folding the leg opening like this that way the
snaps will be in the same position on each
side.

If your snaps are having trouble going

through the bulk at the bottom of the cuff
try starting the first snap about 1cm up from
the cuff edge. I use regular prong snaps and
don’t have any trouble but you may want to
use long prong snaps if you find it’s a bit too
bulky.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 23

Your finished leg snaps should
look something like this :)

I normally place the male snaps

on the back leg to snap onto
the female snap on the front
leg as the gusset is attached to
the back piece and it makes it
easier to close the snaps when
changing a nappy :)

TOP BINDING (Option 1 - the easier one):

Attach the pieces of woven

stabiliser to the tab tops as
shown. Then take the
dungaree front binding piece
and fold it wrong sides to-
gether along the length of
the piece of binding.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 24

Pin the front binding to the front of the dungarees right sides together along the raw
edges. Leave at least 2cm of binding over each tab top. Start by pinning the two tab
ends first then the midpoint to midpoint. You will need to stretch the binding slightly to
fit.

You will then need to stitch along the raw edges to attach the binding to the
dungarees. Which should look as below when stitched.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 25

 It should look like this from
the wrong side.

Follow the same process for

the dungaree sides and back
and you should have
something like this.

To finish the binding go to the FINISHING THE BINDING :)

TOP BINDING (Option 2 - a little bit trickier):

Pin and then

attach the
pieces of
woven sta-
biliser to the
tab tops.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 26

 Take the dungaree front
binding piece and pin the raw
edge to the raw edge of the
dungarees front leaving at
least 2cm of binding over-
hanging the tab top edge.
Then pin midpoint of the
binding to the midpoint of
the dungarees front. You will
need to stretch the binding
slightly to fit the dungarees
front.

It should look a bit like this

once stitched in place.

From the reverse fold the

binding towards the raw
edge like this. We’re going
to make it like bias binding
only it doesn’t need to be on
the bias because it’s already
stretchy :) You can always
iron the binding but it’s not
necessary.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 27

 Then fold the binding over
again towards the wrong
side to enclose the seam.
Pin in place and continue to
fold and pin along the whole
binding piece.

It should look a bit like this

when all pinned in place from
the wrong side.

Next you will top stitch all

along the binding to secure
it place. You can use a dou-
ble needle on a sewing ma-
chine or a coverstitch. You
can use a straight stitch on
a sewing machine although
the straight stitch won’t be
flexible and may be liable to
breaking.

28
 It should look a bit like this
when top stitched.

Then do the same process

for the back binding and the
sides binding.

So your binding should end

up looking a bit like this :)

29
©Sparkle & Roar 2016
FINISHING THE BINDING (both options):

Fold the tab top over to the

wrong side of the dungarees.
You want to fold over about
2cm and then pin it in place.
We left those extra ends on
the binding because it makes
this bit so much easier :)

Do the same for all the tab

tops.

Here I use the same zigzag

with the feed dogs disengaged
method that I used in the
facing version of securing the
tab tops. You can do a straight
stitch across the tab top
instead if you want to.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 30

 It looks like this from the
front.

And this is the back view. Now trim off the binding pieces that were
hanging over and you should be left with something that looks a bit
like this :)

31
©Sparkle & Roar 2016
ADDING THE TAB SNAPS (all options):

There is enough space to fit two rows of female

snaps on the front tabs of 2cm apart.
This is to allow for height adjustment.

On the back tabs you only need the one row of

male snaps

So your tab snaps should look a bit like this

:)

You will probably find the binding version

snaps need to be closer together as the
binding tends to add extra bulk to the tab.

Hopefully at the end you should have a lovely pair of dungarees. Please give me a shout if
you get stuck anywhere along the process or if anything is unclear.

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 32

Table of measurements for the various pieces in the pattern

Measurements ANKLE CUFFS SHORTS CUFFS LEG SNAPS BINDING

in cm PIECE
Regular Leg Snaps Leg Regular Leg Snaps Leg Long Leg Shorts
WxL WxL WxL WxL WxL WxL
Tiny-1m 14.9 x 11 16.5 x 11 6 x 15 6 x 16 4.7 x 32 4.7 x 16
0-3m 16 x 12.8 17.7 x 12.8 6 x 17.5 6 x 18.9 4.7 x 36 4.7 x 18
3-6m 17.3 x 13.6 19 x 13.6 6 x 18 6 x 19.5 4.7 x 42 4.7 x 20
6-12m 18.6 x 14.8 20.5 x 14.8 6 x 21 6 x 22.4 4.7 x 46 4.7 x 22
1-2y 19.5 x 16.5 21.5 x 16.5 7 x 23 7 x 24.5 4.7 x 56 4.7 x 24
2-3y 20.5 x 17.8 22.5 x 17.8 7 x 26 7 x 27.7 4.7 x 71 4.7 x 27.6
3-4y 21.4 x 19 23.6 x 19 7 x 28 7 x 29.8 4.7 x 73 4.7 x 32.8
4-5y 22.4 x 20 24.6 x 20 7 x 30 7 x 32 4.7 x 76 4.7 x 36

Measurements in DUNGAREES BINDING POCKET BINDING

cm
Front Back Sides
WxL WxL WxL WxL
Tiny-1m 3.6 x 19 3.6 x 20.6 3.6 x 25.65 -
0-3m 3.6 x 20.6 3.6 x 22 3.6 x 27.5 3.5 x 11
3-6m 3.6 x 21.4 3.6 x 22.7 3.6 x 29 3.5 x 12
6-12m 3.6 x 23 3.6 x 23.5 3.6 x 31.5 3.5 x 14.1
1-2y 3.6 x 24.5 3.6 x 24 3.6 x 36.25 3.5 x 16.9
2-3y 3.6 x 27 3.6 x 27 3.6 x 39.55 3.5 x 19
3-4y 3.6 x 29 2.6 x 28.5 3.6 x 41.85 3.5 x 20
4-5y 3.6 x 32 2.6 x 30 3.6 x 43.85 3.5 x 21.3

Credits: I just want to say a massive thank-you to all my pattern testers who used their
own time and fabric to help bring you this pattern. Here is a list of everyone who has
helped :)
All custom print fabric used in the instructions is by Second Star Fabric
www.facebook.com/groups/secondstarfabric/

Some of the pattern testers are:

www.facebook.com/BooCreates/
www.caboodlekids.co.uk
www.littletshaberdashery.com
www.jolly-penguin.com
www.facebook.com/katiebearcreates
www.facebook.com/mibsfabrics
www.Facebook.com/brightncomfy
www.facebook.com/wigglesandcurlywhiskers
www.facebook.com/littlegoodey
www.facebook.com/littlerainbows321
www.facebook.com/Motherhubbardssewingcupboard/
www.facebook.com/The-Bouncy-Bobbin-161539140600454/
www.facebook.com/SweetLavenderAndChiliFlakes
www.facebook.com/EliandBumble/

©Sparkle & Roar 2016 33