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Learning Guide Terminate and Connect Electrical Wiring System

This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information

regarding the following content coverage and topics
 Plan and prepare
 Perform installation and termination of wiring system
 Inspect and notify completion of work
 Clean up

This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the
cover page. Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be
able to:-
o Prepare and plan Installation to ensure OHS policies and
procedures are followed, the work is appropriately sequenced in
accordance with requirements
o Consult Appropriate personnel to ensure the work is coordinated
effectively with others involved on the work site
o Check Wiring systems’ components against job requirements
o Obtain Fitting Accessories in accordance with established
procedures and to comply with requirements
o Determine Location in which specific items of accessories,
apparatus and circuits are to be installed from job requirements
o Obtain Materials necessary to complete the work in accordance
with established procedures and checked against job requirement
o Obtain Tools, equipment and testing devices needed to carry out
the installation work in accordance with established procedures
and checked for correct operation and safety
o Check Preparatory work to ensure no unnecessary damage has
occurred and complies with requirements
o Follow OHS policies and procedures for installing electrical wiring
systems
o Install Wiring systems in accordance with requirements, without
damage or distortion to the surrounding environment or services
o Accessories are terminated and connected in accordance with
requirements
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o Respond Unplanned events or conditions to in accordance with

established procedures
o Obtain Approval in accordance with established procedures from
appropriate personnel before any contingencies are implemented
o Undertake Final inspections to ensure the installed apparatus conforms to
requirements
o Notify Work completion in accordance
o Clear Work area and materials disposed of, reused or recycled in
accordance with legislation/regulations/codes of practice and job
specification
o Clean, check , maintain and store Plant, tools and equipment in
accordance with manufacturers’ recommendations and standard
work practices
o Return Surplus materials to warehouse
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Information Sheet

Terminate and connect electrical wiring system

Amps Volts Watts

The following relationship exists between Amps, Volts and Watts.

Amperes are a measure of the rate of flow of electricity in a conductor.

Volts are a measure of electrical pressure.

Watts are a measure of the amount of energy or work that can be done by amperes and
volts.

Thus, the following relationship exists.

Work = Pressure x Flow

Or

Watts = Volts x Amperes

This formula is commonly referred to as the West Virginia Formula

W=VA

When we know any two variables of the formula, we can calculate the other.

Watts = Volts x Amps

Volts = Watts / Amps

Amps = Watts / Volts

Calculating Amperage

If we have a100 watt lamp plugged into a 120 volt receptacle, we can determine the rate of
flow or the amperes for that circuit.

Amps = 100 Watts / 120 Volts

100 / 120 =.833 Amps

Calculating Watts

If a water heater operates at 20 amps on a 240 volt circuit, what is the wattage of the
appliance?
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Watts = 240 Volts x 20 Amps

4800 Watts =240V x 20A

Watts=4800

Calculating Volts

If an electric motor operates at 2880 watts and 12 amps, what would be the voltage
requirement for that motor?

Volts = 2880 Watts / 12 Amps

2880 / 12 = 240 Volts

Circuit Calculations

When installing branch circuits, it is important that we know the following information
before we can begin.

• The number of loads on the circuit.

• The Watts of each load.

• The Amperes required by each load.

• The Voltage required by the load.

• The distance from the service panel to the load.

Our first example will be to install a branch circuit for lights in a shop building.

The load will be ten 120 watt light bulbs.

The lights will operate on a 120 volt circuit.

We can determine the amperage on this circuit by using the formula A= W / V.

The amperage on this circuit will be the number of lights (10) x 120 Watts /120 Volts
=10 Amps.

Now we can correctly match our wire size and circuit breaker for the installation we
desire.
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Types of Cable
• Nonmetallic sheathed cable: copper or aluminum wire covered with paper, rubber,
or vinyl for insulation

• Armored cable: flexible metal sheath with individual wires inside. Wires are
insulated

• Conduit: tubing with individually insulated wires

Wire Type and Size

• copper

• No 14 (14 gauge) = 15 amp circuits

• No 12 = 20 amps

• No 10 = 30 amps

• aluminum use one size larger

• lower gauge number = larger wire

• No 8 and larger use bundles of wires

• current travels on outer surface of wire, so a bundle of smaller wires can carry more

Voltage Drop

• loss of voltage as it travels along a wire

• lights dim, motors overheat

• larger wires have less voltage drop for a given amount of current

• longer wire = greater problem

• must increase wire size as distance increases

Wire Identification
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• Type of outer covering, individual wire covering, cable construction, number of wires

• Wire type stamped on outer surface

ELECTRICAL SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES

Switches to list and identify:

• Single pole

• Three-way switch

• Four-way switch

• Double switches

• Pilot light switch

• Switch/receptacles

• Timer switches

• Automatic switches

• Motion- sensor switches

• Programmable switches

• Time-delay switch

• Dimmer switch

Receptacles to list and identify:

• Normal receptacles

15 amps, 125 volts

15 amps,125 volts(grounded)

20 amps, 125 volts

15 amps, 250 volts

• High –voltage

30 amps 125/250 volts

50 amps, 125/250 volts

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• Electrical Switches

• Special Purpose switches

• Electrical Receptacles

• GFCI Receptacles

Receptacles and Switches

Identify the following switch

• 1.

A. three way

B. single pole

C. four way

• 2.

A. three way

B. single pole

C. four way
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• 3.

A. three way

B. single pole

C. four way
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TAPS AND JOINTS

Some people are careless and erroneous in using the terms joints and splices. There is a
considerable difference between a joint and a splice.

By definition, a jointis the tying together of two single wire conductors so that the union will be
good both mechanically and electrically.

A splice is the interlaying of the strands of two stranded conductors so that the union will be
good both mechanically and electrically.

Making a joint tap or splice comprises the operations of:

1. Removing the insulation;

2. Cleaning the conductors;

3. Tying or interlaying

Pig tail joint 1. Cross the pair of conductors to be connected between the fingers and twist them
together for a distance of 1 inch. For heavy wires, pliers must be used.

Pig tail joint 1. cross the pair of conductors to be connected between the fingers and twist them
together for a distance of 1 inch. For heavy wires, pliers must be used.
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Pig tail joint 2. The final twist must be made with a pair of pliers and the excess wire cut off.
The bare joints should now be pulled out of contact with any metal so that the circuit may be
tested.

4. Soldering;

5. Taping.

The topic of splices will be taken up in the following pages.

REMOVING THE INSULATION - In preparing the insulated conductors for

making joints or splices, the insulation must first be removed from each conductor a proper
distance depending upon the type of joint or splice to be made.
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This process is sometimes called skinning or stripping. This operation is usually

performed in a questionable manner by the use of an ordinary knife blade resulting of loss time
and probable nicking of wire. For a single wire conductor, a form of scraper should be used.

The method of using a ripper is shown in the succeeding illustration. The insulation of a
duplex cable should be first ripped with a tool stick; them the insulation from the separate
conductors is removed with a scraper.If a knife must be used, do not cut the insulation crosswise,
but parallel with the wire.

Cleaning the conductors – After removing the insulation the wires must be thoroughly
cleaned to insure good electrical contact between the ends of the wires and so that the solder will
adhere properly. The wires may be cleaned by scraping. If this is done with a knife, care should
be taken to avoid nicking the wire. Sandpaper may be used to clean the wires.

The Pig Tail Joint as before mentioned is suitable for service where there are no mechanical
stresses as where wires are to be connected in an outlet box, switch, or conduit fitting.

The Bell Hanger’s Joint was, as its name implies, originally intended for bell circuit, however,
on account of its being not only electrically and mechanically strong, but also compact, and it has
numerous other uses where the tensile is not too great.

The Western Union Joint is a modified form of the bell hanger’s joint. It is made in the same way
as the bell hanger’s joint with the exception that a number of twists are taken instead of one. The
object of the extra twists is to make it more efficient mechanically as the tensile stress brought on
these joints in considerable.

The Turn Back Joint is useful in connecting two wires that must be drawn taut.

The Brittania Joint is sometimes used on overhead lines where considerable tensile strength is
required. It is also used for both inside and out side wiring where single conductors of size No. 6
or larger are used.

The Scarfed Joint is used on large wires where appearance and compactness are the main
considerations and where the joint is not subjected to any heavy tensile stress.
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The Duplex Joint is used in conduit systems where twin wires are used, that is, two wire cables.
It will be seen from the illustration that the joint is consisted of 2 bell hanger’s joints spaced so
that they do not come opposite each other.

*Brittania Joint 1. Bend up at right angles the end of each wire. Use a hand vise and hammer as
a sharp bend cannot be made by pliers.

Brittania Joint 2. Place the wires together so that they overlap about 3 inches.

Brittania Joint 3. Assuming the wires to be joined are a No. 6, use a No. 18 wrapping wire. Take
about 6 ft. of wrapping wire, clean it and bend it half
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Brittania Joint 4. Place the center of the wrapping wire at the center of the joint and wrap each
half toward the ends of the joint.

Brittania Joint 5. After wrapping, force the free ends of the wrapping wire through the grooves
formed by the wrap and large wires.

Brittania Joint 6. With the portion of wrapping wire remaining after pulling through, make a few
turns around the large wires at each end of the joint.
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*Scarf Joint 1. The ends of the two wires to be joined are scarfed (file-wedge shape). The scarf
should be about 3 ins. Long, bringing the ends to a file-point making a good fit. When filling, the
ends of the conductors are most conveniently held by laying them in a groove in a block of
wood. The wires, when fitted together, should appear like one continuous wire.

Scarf Joint 2. Tin the ends, then wrap with a No. 18 or No. 20 wire, starting at the middle of the
joint and wrapping towards the ends similarly as with the Brittania joint, except that the ends,
instead of being pulled through, are wrapped s few turns beyond the ends of the joint. Solder the
joint.

*Duplex Joint 1. Skin or remove about 3 ins. Of the outer braid from each cable and remove
insulation from each wire, i.e., so that the joints will not come opposite each other.
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Duplex Joint 2. Make up joints. Note that these joints do not opposite each other, thus giving
better insulation.

Method of using Austin cable ripper.In operation, queeze and pull.This cause the cutter to sink
into the outer braid and rip same.

Twist and Turns. In making twists, each wire is wrapped around the other, whereas in making
turns, one wire remains straight, the other wire being wrapped around the straight wire.
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*Bell Hanger’s Joint 1. Strip off 3 inches of insulation from end of each wire and clean.

Bell Hanger’s Joint 2. Bring wires together and make one turn as shown, then hold first wire
with hand and twist second wire with pliers. Similarly, twist first wire. The twisting may be done
by hand for small wire, but for large wire, pliers are necessary.

Bell Hanger’s Joint 3. Appearance of completed joint before soldering and taping.

*Turn Back Joint 1. Strip off 3 inches of insulation from one wire and 5 inches from the other
and clean the exposed ends.
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Turn Back Joint 2. With the ends of the wires together, twist the wires, using the pliers and
leaving about one inch straight at the end.

Turn Back Joint 3. Turn back the long wire until it be parallel with the twists.

Turn Back Joint 4. Turn the two straight ends around the long wire between the twisted portion
and the insulation, thus completing the joint. There should be enough straight wire left after
twisting to make several turns.

JOINTS – There is a multiplicity of joints designed to meet the requirements of different

kind of wiring. The duty to be performed by a joint determine the kind to be used.

In some cases, all that is required is that the joint be electrically good as for instance, the
pig tail splice used in junction or fixture outlet boxes; in other cases, the joint must be electrically
good and also mechanically good, as for instance, joints on an overhead line must be made so
that they will withstand considerable tensile stress due to the weight of the suspended conductor.
There are a number of joints extensively used of which the following should be noted:

1. Pig Tail;

2. Bell Hanger’s;

3. Western Union;

4. Turn Back;

5. Brittania;

6. Duplex.

TAPS – By definition, a tap is the connection of one wire to some point along the run of another
wire. As with joints, there are various taps to meet different conditions. The following should be
noted:
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1. Plain;

2. Aerial;

3. Knotted;

4. Cross;

a. Double;

b. Duplex;

5. Wrapped.

The Plain Tap is the one most frequently used and is quickly made without difficulty.

The Aerial Tap is intended for wires subjected to considerable movement. It is similar to the
plain tap except that it has a long or easy twist to permit of movement.

The Knotted Tap, as must be evident, is designed to take considerable tensile stress.

The Double Cross Tap is simply a combination of two plain taps.

The Duplex Cross Tap is used where two wires are to be tapped at the same time, because it can
be made quicker.

The Wrapped Tap is used on wires too large to wrap around the run wire.

*Plain Tap 1. Remove about 1 ¼ in. of insulation a long the run wire and about 3 ins. At the end
of the tap wire. Cross the wire about ¼ in. from insulation and take a hook.

Plain Tap 2. Take 5 or 6 turns of the tap wire around the run wire. Note that the joint should
terminate about ½ in. from the insulation in the run wire. This permits soldering without burning
the insulation and gives better chance for tap (e) ing.
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*Aerial Tap. The long twist is to give flexibility. In making, the joint is soldered on the turns, the
long twist being left free.

Double Cross Tap. Fir this tap remove about 2 ½ ins. of insulation from the run wire and about
¼ in. from each tap wire. Each tap is made as described for the plain taps; the taps starting at the
middle of the joint and running in opposite directions.

*Duplex Cross Tap. Remove about 2 ins. of insulation from the run wire and about 3 ins. From
each tap wire. Bring the two tap wires across the run wire at one end of the joint and double twist
the ends of the tap wires.

*Wrapped Tap 1. Using a No. 6 wire remove about 4 ins. of insulation from both wires.

Wrapped Tap 2. Bend the tap wire in the shape of an L with bend 1 in. from insulation and place
it along the run wire as shown.
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Wrapped Tap 3. Wrap in a similar manner as described for the brittania joint.

SPLICES
As pointed out in the preceding chapter there is considerable difference between a joint and a
splice yet the word splice is commonly though incorrectly used for joint. The latter term relates
to single wire conductors and splice to multi-wire or stranded conductors.

Running Butt Splice – The term running butt relates to splices formed by butting together the
ends if two cable lengths to extend the run or length of circuit as distinguished from tap splices
later described.

*Y Splice 1. Remove insulation to a distance depending upon the size of wire. Interweave the tap
wire through the run wire strands at one end of the splice and twist up the run wire strands in the
original direction.
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Y splice2. Tightly wrap the strands of the tap wire around the run wire, either by the single or
multiple method, depending upon the size of the wire.

According to the method of wrapping the strands, running butt splices are classified as:

1. Single Wrapped

2. Multiple Wrapped

Single Wrapped Splices – This kind of splice is used for large (No. 6 or larger) because it is
easier to wrap a single wire at a turn than to wrap them all at once.

Multiple Wrapped Splices – This method of wrapping is generally used on small cables because
the strands are flexible and all can be wrapped in one operation. A three stands cable is selected
so as clearly show the method of wrapping.

Tap Splices – These are made when the end of one stranded conductor is to be conducted at some
point along the run of another stranded conductor.

They may be class as:

1. Ordinary

2. Splice

3. Y-splice
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*Single Wrapped Splice 1. remove about 6 ins. of insulation from each cable and clean each
strand.

Single Wrapped Splice 2. Lay up (that is wrap) the strands for a distance of about 2 ins. From the
end of the insulation of each cable and fan out the strands to an angle of about 30.

Single Wrapped Splice 1. Interweave the strands by bringing together the laid up sections and in
so doing see, that one strand only of each wire passes between two strands of the other case.
Make a hook by sharply bending say strands 1 and A.

Single Wrapped Splice 2. Wrap tightly one strand as strand around the laid up portion of the
cable.
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Single Wrapped Splice 3. Wrap tightly each of the remaining strands of each cable around the
laid up portion of the other cable.

*Multiple Wrapped Splice 1. Remove about 3 ½ ins. of insulation from each cable and clean
each strand.

Multiple Wrapped Splice 2. Lay up the strands for a distance of 1 in. from the insulation. Fan the
free ends and butt together properly intertwining the strands.

Multiple Wrapped Splice 3. Wrap tightly the strands of one cable around the laid up portion of
the other cable. Similarly wrap the strands of the other cable.
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Self-Check -6 Written Test

Name: _________________________ Date: _______________

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Illustrations may be necessary to aid some
explanations/answers.

1. Where do we use two way switching? (1 point)

2. When do we use intermediate switching? (1 point)
3. What is DPDT stands for? (1 point)
4. What type of switch is used for staircase lighting? (1 point)
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Operation sheet

ONE BULB CONTROLLED BY S1 IN ONE LOCATION

Task 1

Information Sheet

TWO BULBS CONTROLLED BY S1 IN ONE LOCATION

Task 2
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TWO BULBS CONTROLLED INDIVIDUALY BY TWO S1 IN ONE LOCATION

Task 3

TWO BULBS CONTROLLED INDIVIDUALY BY TWO S1 IN TWO DIFFERENT LOCATION

Task 4
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THREE BULBS CONTROLLED INDIVIDUALY BY THREE S1

IN THREE DIFFIRENT ONE LOCATION

Task 5

FOUR BULBS CONTROLLED BY TWO S1 IN TWO DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.

EACH S1 CONTROLS TWO BULBS AT THE SAME TIME.
Task 6
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ONE BULB CONTROLLED BY TWO THREE-WAY SWITCHES

IN TWO DIFFERENT LOCATION.

Task 7
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Conduit Bending Guide

Types of conduit

Conduit systems are classified by the wall thickness, mechanical stiffness, and material used to
make the tubing. Materials may be chosen for mechanical protection, corrosion resistance and
overall economy of the installation (labor and material cost). Wiring regulations for electrical
equipment in hazardous areas may require particular types of conduit to be used so as to provide
an approved installation.

Metal conduits

Rigid Metal Conduit (RMC) is thick threaded tubing, usually made of coated steel, stainless steel
or aluminum.

Galvanized rigid conduit (GRC) is galvanized steel tubing, with a tubing wall that is thick
enough to allow it to be threaded. Its common applications are in commercial and industrial
construction.

Intermediate Metal Conduit (IMC) is steel tubing heavier than EMT but lighter than RMC. It
may be threaded.

Electrical metallic tubing (EMT), sometimes called thin-wall, is commonly used instead of

galvanized rigid conduit (GRC), as it is less costly and lighter than GRC. EMT itself may not be
threaded, but can be used with threaded fittings that clamp to it. Lengths of conduit are
connected to each other and to equipment with clamp-type fittings. Like GRC, EMT is more
common in commercial and industrial buildings than in residential applications. EMT is
generally made of coated steel, though it may be aluminum.

Aluminum conduit, similar to galvanized steel conduit, is a rigid conduit, generally used in

commercial and industrial applications, where a higher resistance to corrosion is needed. Such
locations would include food processing plants, where large amounts of water and cleaning
chemicals would make galvanized conduit unsuitable. Aluminum cannot be directly embedded
in concrete, since the metal reacts with the alkalis in cement. The conduit may be coated to
prevent corrosion by incidental contact with concrete. The extra cost of aluminum is somewhat
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offset by the lower labor cost to install, since a length of aluminum conduit will have about one-
third the weight of an equally-sized rigid steel conduit.[2]

In extreme corrosion environments where plastic coating of the tubing is insufficient, conduits
may be made from stainless steel, bronze or brass.

Non-metal conduits

PVC conduit is the lightest in weight compared to other conduit materials, and usually lower in
cost than other forms of conduit. In North American electrical practice, it is available in three
different wall thicknesses, with the thin-wall variety only suitable for embedded use in concrete
and heavier grades suitable for direct burial and exposed work. The various fittings made for
metal conduit are also made for PVC. The plastic material resists moisture and many corrosive
substances, but since the tubing is non-conductive an extra bonding (grounding) conductor must
be pulled into each conduit. PVC conduit may be heated and bent in the field. Joints to fittings
are made with slip-on solvent-welded connections, which set up rapidly after assembly and attain
full strength in about one day. Since slip-fit sections do not need to be rotated during assembly,
the special union fittings used with threaded conduit (Ericson) are not required. Since PVC
conduit has a higher thermal coefficient of expansion than other types, it must be mounted so as
to allow for expansion and contraction of each run. Care should be taken when installing PVC
underground in multiple or parallel run configurations due to mutual heating effect of cable

Plastic tubing for use as electrical conduit.

Rigid Nonmetallic Conduit (RNMC) is non-metallic unthreaded tubing.

Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing (ENT) is thin-walled corrugated tubing that is moisture-resistant

and flame retardant. It is pliable such that it can be bent by hand and is often flexible although
the fittings are not. It is not threaded due to its corrugated shape although the fittings might be.

Flexible conduits

Flexible conduits are used to connect to motors or other devices where isolation from vibration is
useful, or where an excess number of fittings would be needed to use rigid connections.
Electrical codes may restrict the length of a run of some types of flexible conduit.
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Flexible metallic conduit used in an underground parking facility.

Flexible Metallic Conduit (FMC, often informally called Greenfield or flex) is made by

the helical coiling of a self-interlocked ribbed strip of aluminum or steel, forming a hollow tube
through which wires can be pulled. FMC is used primarily in dry areas where it would be
impractical to install EMT or other non-flexible conduit, yet where metallic strength to protect
conductors is still required. The flexible tubing does not maintain any permanent bend.

FMC may be used as an equipment grounding conductor if specific provisions are met regarding
the trade size and length of FMC used in addition to the amperage of the circuits contained in the
conduit. In general an equipment grounding conductor must be pulled through the FMC with an
ampacity suitable to carry the fault current likely imposed on the largest circuit contained within
the FMC.

Liquid tight Flexible Metal Conduit (LFMC) is a metallic flexible conduit covered by a

waterproof plastic coating. The interior is similar to FMC.

Flexible Metallic Tubing (FMT) is not the same as Flexible Metallic Conduit (FMC) which is
described in National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 348. FMT is a raceway, but not a conduit
and is described in a separate NEC Article 360. It only comes in 1/2" & 3/4" trade sizes, whereas
FMC is sized 1/2" ~ 4" trade sizes. NEC 360.2 describes it as: "A raceway that is circular in
cross section, flexible, metallic and liquid tight without a nonmetallic jacket."

Liquid tight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit (LFNC) refers to several types of flame-resistant non-
metallic tubing. Interior surfaces may be smooth or corrugated. There may be integral
reinforcement within the conduit wall. It is also known as FNMC.

Underground conduit

Conduit may be installed underground between buildings, structures, or devices to allow

installation of power and communication cables. An assembly of these conduits, often called a
duct bank, may either be directly buried in earth or encased in concrete (sometimes with
reinforcing rebar to aid against shear). A duct bank will allow replacement of damaged cables
between buildings or additional power and communications circuits to be added, without the
expense of re-excavation of a trench. While metal conduit is occasionally used for burial,
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usually PVC, polyethylene or polystyrene plastics are now used due to lower cost and easier

installation.

Formerly, compressed asbestos fiber mixed with cement (such as Transite) was used for some
underground installations. Telephone and communications circuits were typically installed in
fired-clay conduit.

Conduit Bending Basics:

The line of Klein Tools conduit benders have been designed for performance and durability
exceeding the expectations of today’s professional. It is recommended to familiarize yourself
with bending Concepts, techniques and learn the bender’s functionality to provide you a positive
experience while greatly improving the overall outcome of your project. Conduit come in two
types, EMT and Rigid conduits and can be found in various sizes. Klein Tools provides conduit
benders for EMT in ½”, ¾”, 1” and 1-¼” conduit and ½”, ¾”, and 1” Rigid conduit.
To aid bending when performing a ground or air bend, the benders are marked with different
alignment symbols to help the operator create the bends necessary to accomplish any project.
The symbols found on the Klein Tools benders are the arrow, the teardrop, the star point and
angle markings. These markings are found on various sides of the bender head.

The 4 most common bends to know how to make are the 90° Stub-Up, Back to Back, Offset and
the 3Point Saddle bends. It is common to use a combination of the bender markings when
making certaintube profiles. Knowing the proper technique and method of making the bends will
allow you toaccomplish most projects efficiently.
Things to remember while bending:
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1. A proper bend is made by rolling the conduit about the bender in the conduit’s cradle using all
foot pressure.
2. Use the correct size bender for the conduit size being bent.
3. Some over bending may be required to allow for spring back of the conduit. The resting
condition of the conduit is to be at the final angle desired.
4. Measure and properly mark your conduit using the tables and information provided.
5. Floor bending: Make sure conduit is secure so it does not slide prior to bending. Apply ample
foot pressure to the benders heel while minimizing the use of the handle as a lever but
more of a guide.
6. Air Bending: Make sure handle’s hilt is secure on ground and is reinforced by your foot so it
does not slide out. Make sure you are balanced and apply force close to the tool and your
body controlling the tubing as you bend it around the bender’s cradle making sure the
conduit does not slide in the bender head.
7. To prevent injury, always wear protective gear and do not over exert.

The stub bend is made by bending a piece of conduit into an L shape or 90° bend by placing the
free end (short end) of the tube to a predetermined length as indicated in the diagram below. This
is the most common bend and is a building block for other bends. Common uses for this bend
are: Running conduit into electrical boxes, running conduit up or down walls, running conduit
into walls through floors and ceilings and making inner and outer corner turns.

1. Determine the overall free end height of the conduit you want after the bend.
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2. From the overall free height, subtract the stub height listed in the Bender Take-Up Table for
theConduit size you are bending. Klein Tools has provided the correct stub height on
each bender head.
3. On the conduit, measure from the free end to be bent up the calculated number and mark the
conduit.

4. Always use the proper size conduit bender for the conduit size being bent. The conduit will
not bend properly and/or will be damaged if a mismatch of bender and conduit size is used. Place
the bender onto the tubing with the hook pointed towards the free end to be bent upwards. Make
sure the conduit is resting properly in the bender’s hook and lineup the arrow symbol with the
mark you placed on the tubing.

5. Keeping the conduit flat, apply ample foot pressure to the bender’s heel minimizing the use of
the handle as a lever, rolling up the free end into the 90° position checking the degree with a
level. When done properly the free end will be at the desired height and the arrow will be at the
stub height as indicated.
In some installations there will be a need to cut down the unbent side of the conduit to another
desired length to fit the installation. Use a tube cutter for smooth precise cutting and burr
removal to ensure the safety of the electrical wiring when pulled through. A hacksaw can be
substituted as long as the tubing’s cut edge is prepared properly.
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The back to back bend is the next style of bend that is needed while running electrical conduit. In
realitythe concept is formulated by the need to know the distance from the back edge of a 90°
bend to a fixedpoint down the conduit to mark for other bend operations to meet the installation
requirement. As youwill see it builds on the 90° stub bend and when done the most common use
of this bend will look likean elongated U.You will need to know this bend method when you
want to fit conduit between two parallel surfaces such as two walls or joists while keeping the
U’s outer edges of the legs touching the two surfaces. This allows for proper anchoring and a
nice clean appearance.

2. The first bend for the back to back bend is the 90° stub-up bend. Follow the steps from the 90°
Stub-
Up section to create the ideal bend for the connection on the first side.
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3. From the back edge of the 90° stub-up bend, measure the distance found in step 1 and make
your mark on the conduit.

4. Place the bender on the conduit with the bender’s hook facing the free end of the tube to be
bentopposite the original bend side. Make sure the conduit is resting properly in the bender’s
cradle and lineup the Star Point Symbol with the mark you placed on the tubing.

5. Keeping the conduit flat, apply ample foot pressure to the bender’s heel, with minimal use of
the handle as a lever, rolling up the free end into the 90° position checking the degree with a
level. It is very important to keep the first 90° bend in the same plane as the new bend. If not
the two legs of the U will be skewed and will not produce the desired shape. If this happens,
some correcting can be done to properly align the legs depending on how out of shape they are.
When the bend is done properly the conduit will lay flat and will fit inside the two surfaces
measured.
In some installations there will be a need to cut down the unbent side of the conduit to another
desired length to fit the installation. Use a tube cutter for smooth precise cutting and burr
removal to ensure the safety of the electrical wiring when pulled through. A hacksaw can be
substituted as long as the tubing’s cut edge is prepared properly.
 Shashamane Poly Technic Collage

If the back to back distance is short (a tight U) so the bender has problems fitting to make the
second bend, you may compensate by subtracting the stub height from the measured distance to
fitthe gap then follow step 3 to mark the calculated number on the conduit. But this time you
wouldput the bender on the conduit with the hook facing the first bend and line up the Arrow
Symbol asdemonstrated in the Stub-Up section, step 5, with the conduit mark and proceed to
make the bendas in step 5 rolling up the previously bent end up into the 90° position giving you
the desireddimension. Caution should be taken when creating the second bend. With this
technique the first bend will be coming at the operator as the second bend is made.

An offset bend is a style of bend that is built independently of the 90° stub and the Back to Back
bend and is an important bend to know when running conduit. It is common to shift the conduit a
certain distance while continuing to run parallel in the same direction as the pre-shift portion of
theconduit. There are many situations that call for an offset bend. The most common uses of this
bendare: staggered joists, running tight on a wall and offset into an electrical box and changes in
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elevation.

1. Determine/measure the offset distance necessary to clear the obstacle and how far away the
offset will need to be bent from the end of the conduit.

2. Decide what angle you wish to make the offset bend and determine the proper values from the
Offset Formula Table. Calculate the proper values to mark on the conduit to clear the obstacle
and fit in the gap measured.

3. From the table use the 45° X 45° offset row for the values to calculate the series of markings
necessary to make the proper bend. To find out where to place the first mark on the conduit,
multiply the measured Offset Distance to clear the obstacle by the tables Shrink/Inch that will
occur to the conduit after all the bends are made due to that offset distance or:
(Offset Distance) X (Shrink/Inch) = Total Shrink.
Example: 6” X .375 = 2.25” of total shrink.
This value is then added to the measured Distance to Obstacle number or:
(Distance to Obstacle) + (Total Shrink) = First Mark Distance.
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To calculate the second mark needed on the conduit, multiply the measured Offset Distance by
theConstant Multiplier of the table or:
(Offset Distance) X (Constant Multiplier) = Second Mark Distance (Distance between
Marks).

This calculated value is how far apart to make your marks from each other on the conduit and
where to make your 45° bends.
4. Using the technique to align the bender on the conduit as described under the Stub-Up Section
5, Place the bender on the conduit with the hook facing away from the second mark and line up
the ArrowSymbol up with the first mark.

5. Keeping the conduit flat, apply ample foot pressure to the bender’s heel minimizing the use of
the handle as a lever, smoothly rolling up the free end until the 45° mark is reached. When done
properly the free end will be at a 45° angle from the original plane.
Note: Some over bending may be required to allow for spring back of the conduit. The resting
condition of theconduit is to be at the final angle desired.
 Shashamane Poly Technic Collage

6. Keeping the bender and conduit together flip the two parts upside down and put the bender’s
handlehilt on the floor, balancing the conduit in the air, allow the conduit to rotate 180° in the
cradle. Slide the conduit down so the first bend is moving away from the bender head, aligning
the second mark as outlined before using the Arrow Symbols (See Stub- Up section, note 5).

7. The second bend of the offset is accomplished by performing an air-bend. Make sure the
handle hilt is secure on ground and is reinforced by your foot so it does not slide out. Make sure
you are balanced and apply force close to the tool and your body controlling the tubing as you
bends it around the bender’s cradle. Bend the free end until the 45° mark is reached.

It is very important to keep the first 45° bend in the same plane as the new bend will be. If not,
the twolegs of the offset will be skewed and will not produce the desired shape. If this happens,
some
correcting can be done to properly align the legs depending on how out of shape they are. When
thebend is done properly the conduit will lay flat and fit inside the measured distance to and clear
theobstacle.
 Shashamane Poly Technic Collage

In some installations there will be a need to cut down the unbent side of the conduit to another
desired length to fit the installation. Use a tube cutter for smooth precise cutting and burr
removal to ensure the safety of the electrical wiring when pulled through. A
hacksaw can be substituted as long as the tubing’s cut edge is prepared properly.

The three point saddle bend is a variant of the offset bend since it is an offset bend that returns to
theoriginal in-line run after clearing an obstacle. This bend is intended to bridge over obstacles
such asexisting conduit or plumbing running perpendicular to the intended conduit installation.

1. Determine/measure the offset distance necessary to clear the obstacle and how far away the
saddle bend will need to be from the edge of the conduit. Unlike the offset bend you must
measure to the center of the obstacle to bridge over.
2. Choose the angle that will be used for the center bend. The other two return bends will be 1/2
the center angle chosen. If the center angle is 45°, the two return bends will be 22.5°. Use the
table to calculate the distance between bends and how much shrink is to occur to the conduit
due to the bends.Example: As an example, the offset distance of an obstacle is 2” and the
distance to obstacle’s center point is 20”.The installation allows for a 45° saddle bend. Note: The
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choice of degree is usuallythe installer’s choice and most of the timethe installation location will
determine whatdegree will fit.

3. Calculate the value needed to place your first mark on the conduit. This number is determined
by the Measured Distance to Center Point of the obstacle plus the Shrink from the 3 PointSaddle
Bend Table that will occur.
(Measured Distance to Center Point) + (Shrink) = Center Mark
4. Using the Distance off Center Mark values found in the table to clear a 2” obstacle, simply
markthat distance from the center line in both directions or subtract this number from the center
mark value for the first return bend mark and add that number to the center mark value toobtain
the second return bend mark distance.
(Center Mark) – (Distance off Center Mark) = 1st Return Bend Mark
Example: (20-3/8”) – 5” = 15-3/8”
(Center Mark) + (Distance off Center Mark) = 2nd Return Bend Mark
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6. Place the bender on the conduit and position the appropriate Center ofBend Rim Notch on
the center mark in the orientation shown.

7. Keeping the conduit flat, apply ample foot pressure to the bender’s heel minimizing the
use of the handle as a lever, smoothly rolling up the free end until the 45° mark is reached.
Note: Some over bending may be required to allow for spring back of the conduit. The resting
condition of the conduit is tobe at the final angle desired.

8. Keeping the bender and conduit together, flip the two parts upside down and put the bender’s
handle hilt on the floor, balancing the conduit in the air, allow the conduit to rotate 180° in the
cradle.Slide the conduit down so the first bend is moving away from the bender head, aligning
the 1st returnbend mark with the Arrow Symbol (See Stub-Up section, note 5).

Note: Some over bending may be required to allow for spring back of the conduit. The resting
condition of theconduit is to be at the final angle desired.
 Shashamane Poly Technic Collage

9. The second bend of the saddle bend is accomplished by performing an air-bend.

Make sure handle hilt is secure on ground and is reinforced by your foot so it does not slide out.
Make sure you are balanced and apply force close to the tool and your body controlling the
tubing asyou bend it around the bender’s cradle. Bend the free end until the 22.5° mark is
reached.

10. Remove bender and place it back on the conduit on the other side of the center bend with the
hook facing the center bend as before aligning Arrow Symbol (See Stub-Up section, note 5). On
the 2ndreturn bend mark.
Note: Some over bending may be required to allow for spring back of the conduit. The resting
condition of the conduit is to be at the final angle desired

11. The last bend of the saddle bend is made again by performing an air bend.
Make sure handle hilt is secure on ground and is reinforced by your foot so it does not slide out.
Make sure you are balanced and apply force close to the tool and your bodies controlling the
tubing as you bend it around the bender’s cradle. Bend the free end until the 22.5° mark is
reached.
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It is very important to keep all the bends in the same plane. If not, the offset will be skewed and
willnot produce the desired shape. If this happens some correcting can be done to properly align
the legsdepending on how out of shape they are. When the bend is done properly the conduit will
lay flat andwill fit the measured distance to obstacle, clear the object and return to the original
line continuing therun as desired.

In some installations there will be a need to cut down the unbent side of the conduit to another
desired length to fit the installation. Use a tube cutter for smooth precise cutting and burr
removal to ensure the safety of the electrical wiring when pulled through. A hacksaw can be
substituted as long as the tubing’s cut edge is prepared properly.
 Shashamane Poly Technic Collage

LAP Test
Practical Demonstration

Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________

Instructions:

1. You are required to perform any of the following:

1.1 Request your Store keeper to supply components according to the given
drawing
1.2 Install the following circuit in the installation board provided
 Check continuity test
 Give the supply to the installed wiring

2. Request your teacher for evaluation and feedback