CUTTING

PROCESS
 Origin of Leather

Leathers are made from the skins of many animals

but mainly cattle, goat, sheep and pig skins.

 HIDES: Big Animals Skin Is Known As Hides

Ex : Cow , Buffalo
 SKIN: Small Animals Skin Is Known As Skin.
Ex : Goat , Sheep
 KIPS : Calf of Cow And Buffalo Skin is Known As Kips
Ex : Cow Calf , Buffalo Calf
 KID : Kid Of Goat And Sheep Skin Is Known As Kid
Ex : Goat Kid , Sheep Kid
 Types of Leather (Finished)

 Full Grain Leather

 Top Grain Leather

 Suede Leather

 Corrected-Grain/”Genuine” Leather

 Bonded Leather
 Full Grain Leather
 The term full-grain refers to leather that hasn’t been sanded or buffed
out to remove marks or imperfections, so it includes the entire thickness
of the skin.
 Keeping the grain allows for additional material strength and durability.
 Used in highest quality furniture, luggage, and footwear.
 Top Grain Leather
 Top-grain leather has the split layer with imperfections taken
away, making it thinner and is second-highest quality.
 This leather has had its surface sanded and a finish applied,
giving it a smooth feel.
 Commonly used in high-end products.
 Suede Leather
 Suede leather is made from the inner splits of a side of
leather.
 Suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer,
suede is less durable but softer than standard leather.
 Suede leather is also popular in upholstery, shoes, bags,
and other accessories, and as a lining for other leather
products.
 Corrected Grain/Genuine Leather
 Corrected grain leather uses the top-grain, or surface,
layer from cattle hide, but the grain surface is abraded to
remove imperfections, such as scars and bite marks,
before a pigmented finish is applied. After pigmentation,
the surface of the hide is embossed with an imitation
leather grain.
 Bonded Leather
 Bonded leather, also called reconstituted leather or
blended leather.
 The term used for a manufactured upholstery material
including animal hide. It is made as a layered structure of a
fiber or paper backer, a pulp made from shredded leather,
and a polyurethane coating which is embossed with a leather-
like texture.
 Defects of Leather
 Mainly Two Of Defects There :

1. Ante mortem Defects

2. Post mortem Defects

 Ante mortem Defects : Defects due to external

parasites and disease Of Living Animals.

 Post Mortem Defects : Defects such as improper

flaying and skin.
 Defects Of Finished Leather

Vein Mark Growth Mark Grain Loose

Pin Holes Loose Leather Other Defects

Defects of Leather
 Basic Styles of Footwear

Derby Shoes Oxford Shoes

Court Shoes
 Basic Styles of Footwear

Moccasin shoes Boot Shoes

Slip On shoes
Sample Upper
Basic Shoe Upper Components

Vamp In–out Quarter

Counter Tongue
 Line of Tightness in Shoe

 When a skin is pulled, the line or direction in which it gives or

stretches most is technically known as the "line of stretch.“
 This property varies in the several kinds of skins, and also in
the same class of skin if tanned or dressed differently.
 The directions in which the skin yields least when pulled or
strained, or are relatively tightest, are termed the ."lines of
tightness."
 Line of Tightness in Shoe

The stretch or "lines of stretch " pull across the " lines of tightness,"
and in a diagram form will give this relation,* where the arrow lines indicate
the "lines of tightness," and the circular lines cutting them the "lines of
stretch."
 Parts of Leather

Butt

Middle

Shoulder

Neck

Shank

Belly
 Leather Products
Various kind of products are produced from the
leathers.

 Footwear ( Shoes and Sandles)

 Garments Items ( Jacket, Wallets, Watch Strap

and Bags.

 Other Products.
Footwear Products
Garment Products
Other Products
 Leather Assorting
 Leather assorting is to find the defects present in the leather
and to fix the component to cut.

 White pencil or crayons are used to mark the defects in the

leather.
 Cutting Process

 For making footwear products, cutting should be processed by

three methods.

 Hand Cutting

 Radial Swing Arm Clicking Machine

 Travelling head Clicking machine

 Hand Cutting Process
Hand cutting method is for

 Sample Process

 Small Order Quantity

 Tools for Hand Cutting Process
Tools Used :

 Cutting Knife

 Component Pattern
 Radial Swing Arm Clicking Machine
Radial Swing Arm Clicking Machine for
 Bulk Quantity
 Short Time
Used to cut
1. Upper Leather
2. Lining Leather
3. Material
Machine Specification :
 Cutting Table - 900 x 430 mm
 Arm Width - 370 mm
 Maximum Cutting Power - 216kN
 Maximum stroke - 90 mm
 Radial Swing Arm Clicking Machine
Tools used for cutting is

1. Cutting Die

2. Nylon Board

3. Knife
 Travelling Head Clicking Machine
Travelling head Clicking machine for
 Bulk Quantity
 Short Time
Used to cut
1. Lining Leather
2. Material (Cloths, Foam, Stiffener &Toepuff)
Machine Specification :
 Max Cutting Force – 25 to 100 tons

 Cutting table Widths - 1800~2500mm or more

 Cutting Head - 500 x 500mm upto 1000 x 1000mm

 Cutting in Leather

Die Placing In Leather Clicking Stage

After Clicking
 Die Placement

Line of
Tightness
Quarter

Tongue
Vamp

GRADE I

GRADE II

GRADE III
Counter
 Component Grade Method

Three types of colour sticker is fixed on the GRADE I

dies that indicates grade for cutting GRADE II

GRADE III
Samples of Dies
 Cutting Method

 Vamp should be cut in butt area.

 Quarter should be cut in shoulder and around butt

area

 Counter in shank area

 Tongue in belly area

 Allow light defects in inside of the cut component

 Size and Side
How to find Size and Side of the component ?

 Notch cut is present in the cut component, which is called as

inside of the component.

 Size notch is also present in adjacent to the size notch.

Defects Chart Placed in Cutting Machine
 Cutting Board Changing
TIMING COLOR

08:30 AM - 10:30 AM

10:30 AM - 01:15 PM

02:00 PM - 04:00 PM

04:00 PM - 05:30 PM
 Die Inspection

Types of inspect in dies

 Sharpness Blunt
 Shape Cross
 Dent
 Punches Break
 Size notches
 Die stamping ( Article No , Size , Component Name
 Check with Master pattern for new dies
 Benefits of Leather vs Synthetic
Footwear
 Breathable features to cool your feet and prevent
unwanted odours
 Durability is arguably the most significant
advantage
 Comfortable Fit .
 Eco Friendly
 Easy to Clean
 Stylish
 Machine Maintenance
 Assure optimization of the Maintenance Organization structure
 Analysis of repetitive equipment failures
 Estimation of maintenance costs and evaluation of alternatives
 Forecasting of spare parts
 Assessing the needs for equipment replacements and establish replacement.
 Assessing required maintenance tools and skills required for efficient
maintenance of equipment
 Assessing required skills required for maintenance personnel
 Assessing and reporting safety hazards associated with maintenance of
equipment
Machine Maintenance
 5 Pairs System
 In Cutting Section, the Cutters Cut one by one Components
of Upper parts.

 The helper Can arrange Pair Wise Cut Components.

 The Finished Cut Components Can be Arrange In 5 pairs

System

 Because Of this 5 Pair System Easy To Identify And

Counting Purpose.