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Necklines

The document discusses various neckline and collar patterns for garment construction. It provides measurements and instructions for drafting different styles including: 1) A V-neckline with specified point measurements for joining the neck to the shoulder. 2) A Chelsa collar with a neck depth of 10cm and collar width of 6cm. Instructions are given to trace the bodice block and join points to draft the collar. 3) A raised collar with a neck depth of 8cm and instructions for drafting the collar by squaring and joining various points on the bodice block.

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Mitesh Malhotra
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1K views10 pages

Necklines

The document discusses various neckline and collar patterns for garment construction. It provides measurements and instructions for drafting different styles including: 1) A V-neckline with specified point measurements for joining the neck to the shoulder. 2) A Chelsa collar with a neck depth of 10cm and collar width of 6cm. Instructions are given to trace the bodice block and join points to draft the collar. 3) A raised collar with a neck depth of 8cm and instructions for drafting the collar by squaring and joining various points on the bodice block.

Uploaded by

Mitesh Malhotra
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Necklines

Standard

To draw any innovative neckline, we need to first see the Neck depth and the Neck width. Neck Width = 17 cms Neck depth = 15 cms i.e 0-X = neck width 0-Y = Neck depth Square down from X and square out from Y Draw any innovative Neck shape in this area.

V - Neckline
The point (6-N) (7-N) (7-S) (S-N) (12-A) (O-B) (B-C) (1-D) joining the neck to the shoulder = nape. = Neck Depth = 10cm (standard) = Neck Low measured in a slant = 3cm inside. Join point S to N in a straight line = V Neckline = 1.5cm for waist shape = Dart Length = 22cm = 9cm Dart Distance

Take 1.5cm on either side of D and make the dart shape. Cutting Points Front (0-4) On fold N-S-9-10-11-A-1 Back Draft (i.e. 7-S = 7a-Sa) (2-6a) = 2.5cm Cutting Points Back (2-3) (on fold) 6a-Sa-9a-11a-A1-3

Chelsa Collar

Measurements Neck Depth = 10cm Collar Width = 6cm Trace out front & Back of basic bodice block with their shoulders aligned keeping the center front line straight. 6-N = Neck depth = 10cm 7-Y = Collar width = 6cms Join 7-N straight line (Shape of neckline) 6a-C = Collar with a center back line = 5-6cm (6a-C will be on fold) Join C-Y in a curve. Square down from N on the line N-7 (Neckline) N-Z = Collar width = 6cms Join N-Z in a straight line Join Y-Z in a curve parallel to 7-N Square out from N&1 on the Centre front line. 1-P an N-P1 = 2cm for placket Cutting Points: 6A-7-N-Z-Y-C-6A (2 Layers) Keeping 6a-C ON FOLD Front Bodice Cutting Points: P1-N-7-9-11-12-1-P-P1 Back Bodice Cutting Points: 7-6a-3-12a-11a-9-7

Sailor Collar
Trace out front & Back of basic bodice block with their shoulder aligned. Keeping the center front line straight.

Point U is just on the arm hole line (4-11) On the centre front line. Join U-9 & U-7 with a Curve. Point P is just on the arm hole on the back bodice (4a-11a) on the centre back line Make a right angle on the back armhole 9-10a 11a to touch the armhole line 4a-11a at pt T. So as to 10-T-P is a 90 degree angle Cutting points: Pa-P-T-9-U-7-6a-P Keeping (6a-P) on fold Open Shirt Collar Trace out front & Back of basic bodice block with their shoulder aligned. Keeping the center front line straight. Measure along with the curve of front and back neckline for exact collar length 6-7-6a (This is neck round) 0.1= width of collar = 8cm Square across from 0 & 1 1-3 0-2 } 2-4 1-5 = Neck Round = 6-7cm for Collar point. = 1cm up

Join 3-4 in a straight line Join 3-5 in a smooth curve Cutting Points: (0.1) ON FOLD 0-2-4-3-5-0 (2 layers)

Open Shirt Collar


Trace out Front & Back of basic bodice block with their shoulder aligned. Keeping the center front line straight.

Measure along with the curve of front & back neckline for exact collar length. 6-7-6a (This is Half Neck Round) 0.1 Width Of Collar = 8cms (Square across from 0 & 1.) 1-3 0-2 } 2-4 1-5 = =

Neck Round

6-7cm for Collar point. 1cm up

Join 3-4 in a straight line Join 3-5 in a smooth curve Cutting Points: 0.1 ON FOLD 0-2-4-3-5-0 (2 layers).

RAISED Collar
Measurements : Neck Depth = 8 cm Trace out front & Back of basic bodice block.

6-N = Neck depth 7-S & 7a - Sa =

= 8 cm 1 cm

Join S - N for front Neckline in any desired shape Join Sa 6a for back Neck S-Z = 3 cms Square up from S keeping right angle from S-O Measure S-O S-X = Measurement S-O + 2cms Square out X X-Y = 3cms Square down from Y & join to Z on the shoulder Cutting Points: Front Back= = (O-1) on Fold N-S-X-Y-Z-9-10-11-12-1-N

(2-3) ON Fold 6a-Sa-9a-11a-12a-3-6a

Chinese Collar
Stand Collar Front & Back Measure Half Neck Round 6-7-6a (Half Front & Back Neck) Draw a straight line Mark point 0.

(0.1) =

Length of collar =

4-3 cms

Square across from 0 and 1 Measure front and back Neck


This is Half Neck Round = X-Y-Z. (0-2) (1-3) =

Half Neck Round.

(3-A) (2-B) =

0.5cm upwards.

(B-C) = 0.5cm inside. Join 0-C & 1-A in a smooth curve. Join A-C in a outward curve. Cutting Points: (O-1) on Fold 0-C-A-1 Two pieces.

NECKLINES

SYMETRICAL NECKLINE

ASSYMETRICAL NECKLINE

COLLARS

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