11th Century Byzantine Clothing Construction
11th Century Byzantine Clothing Construction
11th Century Byzantine Clothing Construction
In the Early Byzantine period (pre-8th c.) the fashions were still heavily influenced by
Roman fashions, and during the Late Byzantine period (13th-15th c.) the styles in the
Empire were influenced by the surrounding areas of the Empire due to increased trade
and political relations.
This handout will focus on the court fashion of the Byzantine Empire during the Middle
Byzantine period (8th-12th c.). This period of Byzantine fashion history is unique in
that the styles of the capital were distinctly Byzantine - a contrast to both the Early and
Late periods. I will be focusing on the court dress of Constantinople because its style
is most appropriate for this year’s Chieftains’ high persona theme of 11th c. Byzantine.
To finish out the survey of 11th c. Byzantine fashion I will also be discussing the
borderland fashions which were influenced by the surrounding Georgian, Armenian,
Arab, and Bulgarian cultures.
The purpose of this handout is to give a brief overview of what it was like to dress
Byzantine during the 11th century, what the clothing pieces looked like, examples of
fabric materials, designs, and colors, period images of clothing, and also cover the
patterning of these garments so you can make your own Byzantine clothing!
Unlike several other areas of historical clothing, there is still a lack of adequate information regarding Byzantine
clothing. Some of what I present here on Byzantine clothing is based on conjecture using my limited
knowledge of the surrounding areas’ clothing, such as Persian and Russian. Another important thing to note
about Byzantine clothing research is the myriad of terms used to refer to the same articles of clothing. This is
due to the use of Greek terms, or their Latinized alternatives. In order to reduce this confusion I have chosen to
primarily use Jennifer Ball’s terminology, though I list some of the other terms you might see while researching.
When looking at images of Byzantine clothing one of the first things you will notice is the modesty of its cut.
Garments often have crew necklines and long hems, without a focus on flattering or exposing the body shape.
You see an example of this in the above image of Saint Eudokia, with her straight garments and almost
androgynous figure.1 During the Middle Byzantine period there is no defined waist in the clothing - this
definition was achieved by belting the garments at the natural waist. The generous coverage of fabric also
conveyed wealth.
When dressing as a member of the court, it is important to remember that your extremities would never be
exposed. For men and women, this means that long sleeves were always worn, at least for the innermost
layer. This also meant that garments reached the floor as a sign of modesty, especially for women. For men
1
Image 1: "Icon with Saint Eudokia." Early 10th c. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture
of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 42.
Another important feature to remember is finishing your garment. This often helps the clothes hang correctly.
For seams that do not show, a simple seam finishing is good. For seams that show, this is more appropriately
done with a lining, especially if you have wide sleeves that hang open. A lining also provides more body to the
garment to make it look stiffer, and thus more expensive, since heavy silk brocade is outside of most people’s
budgets. It also serves as a means of protection for the back side of all your embellishment and beading.
And finally, layers! Wearing multiple layers has some major benefits. First, it allows for better body temperature
regulation since you can add or remove garments easily. Second, your less expensive fabrics absorb sweat
and body oils, protecting your heavily embellished and more expensive top layers. Lastly, layers convey more
wealth since they added to the overall weight of your wardrobe.
Fabrics
During the Middle Byzantine period one’s salary was paid both “in kind” with materials such as bolts of fabric or
new garments, as well as with money. As a result, you displayed your salary and status through your clothing
and its weight. You wanted to wear as much of your wealth as possible, so multiple layers of heavily lavish
fabric were worn. If you could not afford the silk brocades of the elite you would wear patterned fabric or apply
embroidery and appliqued fabric to your garment to make it look more expensive.
Materials
When choosing fabric, silk was the first choice as it was the most obvious display of the Empire’s wealth, and
your standing as an individual. These would be heavily patterned brocades with geometric patterns, figurative
designs of animals or religious scenes, or floral and abstract designs influenced from the Arabic and Islamic
fabric industries. Silk could also be in solid colors and of a fine weave. Although natural silk usually has some
imperfections, there would not be the large slubs found in raw silk or dupioni.
Linen and fine wool were also used during this time since they were less expensive materials. Fine linen is
appropriate, as is fine suiting weight wool with a nice finish. The wool would not have been scratchy, rough, or
coarsely woven. They could then be embellished to look more sumptuous like their more expensive silk
cousins. Cotton was not as common during this period since Egypt was no longer part of the Empire and the
cotton trade had thus declined.
Embellishment was added with embroidery or appliqued fabric/embroidery. Trim on the neckline, cuffs, and
hems was used to finish the look. Pearls and gems were used to embellish the body of the fabric. More was
better during this time, thus it was not crucial that all of your precious gems matched throughout your garment.
If you could not afford precious gems and pearls, glass ‘gems’ were also used to give the impression of
expensive gems.
Designs
A multitude of designs were available to the Byzantines. They
were quite fond roundel designs and this is the most frequently
seen design in the artwork and literature. Back-to-back animals,
birds, and humans in roundels or squares were popular motifs.The
image to the right is of the 12th century shroud of St. Potentien,
displaying phoenixes and griffins in a variegated weft yarn and a
single colored warp yarn.4 Consort Dessislava divetesion in Image
2 displays roundels as well, their scale adjusting so that they
would all appear of the same size when viewed at a distance. We
also notice roundels on her chlamys, emphasizing their popularity.
2
Jennifer L. Ball. Byzantine Dress: Representations of Secular Dress in Eighth- to Twelfth-Century Painting. (New York: Palgrave
MacMillan, 2005). pg 15.
3
Image 2: "The Sebastocrator Kaloian and his consort, Dessislava." 1259. The Resurrection."Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine
Era. (London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 189.
4
Image 3: “Pseudo Kufic script in medallion on Byzantine shroud of Saint Potentien 12th century.”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pseudo_Kufic_script_in_medallion_on_Byzantine_shroud_of_Saint_Potentien_12th_century_rotated.jpg
.
Tunics
Kolobion - sleeveless tunic
Kondomanikion - short sleeved tunic
Chiton, himation, sticharion - all general words for tunics
Sticharion - might have been a striped tunic
Tunica and stola - also seen in some research to refer to a tunic, either short or long sleeved
5
Image 4: "Emperor Nikephoros III Botaneiates and Courtiers." From the Homilies of John Chrysostom. ca. 1071-1081. Evans, Helen
C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry
N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 208.
Divetesion
The divetesion is sometimes also called a dalmatica or
colobium.
6
Image 5: "The Emperor Nicephorus Botiniates (1078-81) between St John Chrysostom and the Archangel Michael." The Homilies of
St John Chrysostom. Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 123.
7
Image 6: "Representation of the Icon of the Virgin Hodegetria." Late 14th c. Kalavrezou, Ioli. Byzantine Women and Their World.
(Cambridge: Harvard University Art Museums, 2003). pg 114.
Caftan
The caftan was similar to the divetesion in that it was a
full-length garment with long sleeves that could be narrow to
moderately wide. Where it differed from the divetesion and
array of tunic styles was that it opened down the front, either
partially or completely. It was then fastened with closures, and
could have slits on the sides to aid in horseback riding.
8
Image 7: "Portrait of the High Admiral Apocaucos." ca. 1342. Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and
Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 248.
9
Image 8: "Dioskorides Presented with Copies of His Book." De materia medica by Dioskorides. 1229. Evans, Helen C. and William D.
Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.,
1997). pg 430.
10
Image 9: "Abu Zayd before a Judge in the City of Merv." Maqamat of al-Hariri. 1222-1223. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom,
ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg
429.
To wear the chlamys it was fastened with a brooch on the right shoulder, though sometimes it was worn
fastened in the center of the chest, like the courtiers in Image 4 with Emperor Nikephoros III Botaneiates.
Insignia and a tablion often adorned the chlamys, signifying the wearer’s station and status. Below to the left
Saints Prokopios, Demetrius and Nestor are each wearing a chlamys with different designed tablion.11 The
Empress Saint Theophono, in the image to the left, displays a very different looking chlamys that lacks a
tablion and is made out of a patterned fabric, rather than a solid-colored fabric.12
Headdress
Round, flat-topped hats without brims
Conical caps of Phrygian style
Turbans - seen in the borderland fashions
Large upright fan headdresses - worn only by women
Maphorion - veil worn by women
11
Image 10: "Saints Prokopios, Demetrius and Nestor." Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and Hudson,
Ltd, 1963). pg 131.
12
Image 11: "The empress Saint Theophono, first wife of Leo VI." Menologium of Basil II. Treadgold, Warren. A History of the Byzantine
State and Society. (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1997). pg 465.
Pants
Leggings/hosen - close fitting, sometimes cross-gartered by the shepherds
Pants - looser style of Frankish origin, sometimes cross-gartered
Footwear
Slip on flat shoes
Ankle boots
Calf-high boots for laborers and soldiers
13
Image 12: "The Dance of Miriam and the Israelite Women." 1058-1059. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of
Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 206.
Constantinople Borderlands
Footwear Slip on flats, ankle boots Slip on flats, ankle boots, shin
boots
14
Image 13: "Christ Crowning Michael VII Doukas (relabeled Nikephoros III Botaneiates) and Maria of Alania.” Illustration from the
Homilies of John Chrysostom. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle
Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 182.
Measurements Directions
Shoulder to Floor : 1.) Take all of the measurements - all of them are standard and
Head Circumference : straightforward. To measure the stride take a full step forward on a
Chest : measuring tape - this measurement equals half of your total hem.
Waist : 2.) Chalk out all of your pattern pieces. You will have 2 body
Hips : panels and two sleeves. Do not forget to add seam allowance.
Stride : 3.) Sew shoulder seams.
4.) Cut and finish neckhole using head circumference.
Sleeve Length : 5.) Attach armseye end of sleeves to the body panels. This will
Armseye : create a t-shaped flat garment.
Duck Hand : 6.) Sew side seams and seams of sleeves, starting at the cuff.
7.) Finish all hems and seams.
Measurements Directions
Shoulder to Floor : 1.) Take all of the measurements - all of them are standard and
Head Circumference : straightforward. To measure the stride take a full step forward on a
Chest : measuring tape - this measurement equals half of your total hem.
Waist : 2.) Chalk out all of your pattern pieces. You will have 2 body
Hips : panels and two sleeves. To determine your cuff measurement add
Stride : (Duck Hand) + 2(Armpit to Waist) OR (Duck Hand) + 2(Armpit to
Top of Hip), depending on how wide you want your sleeves to be.
Sleeve Length : Do not forget to add seam allowance.
Armseye : 3.) Sew shoulder seams.
Duck Hand : 4.) Cut and finish neckhole using head circumference.
Armpit to Waist : 5.) Attach armseye end of sleeves to the body panels. This will
Armpit to Top of Hip : create a t-shaped flat garment.
6.) Sew side seams and seams of sleeves, starting at the cuff.
7.) Finish all hems and seams.
** It is helpful to line the divetesion since the underside and sleeves will be exposed.**
Measurements Directions
Shoulder to Floor : 1.) Take all of the measurements - all of them are standard and
Head Circumference : straightforward. To measure the stride take a full step forward on a
Chest : measuring tape - this measurement equals half of your total hem.
Waist : 2.) Chalk out all of your pattern pieces. You will have 2 body
Hips : panels and two sleeves. To determine your cuff measurement use
Stride : your armseye measurement - this will make a straight sleeve. Do
not forget to add seam allowance. Also remember to add extra
Sleeve Length : seam allowance for the opening down the middle.
Armseye : 3.) Sew shoulder seams.
Duck Hand : 4.) Cut and finish neckhole using head circumference.
5.) Attach armseye end of sleeves to the body panels. This will
create a t-shaped flat garment.
6.) Sew side seams and seams of sleeves, starting at the cuff.
7.) Finish all hems and seams.
** It is helpful to line the caftan since the underside and sleeves will be exposed.**
Measurements Directions
Shoulder to Floor : 1.) Take all of the measurements - all of them are standard and
Width of Fabric : straightforward.
2.) Chalk out a half circle, using your Shoulder to Floor
measurement or the Width of Fabric. If your fabric is narrower than
your shoulder to floor you can add a trim of fabric to make up for
the extra length. Do not forget to add seam allowance.
3.) Cut out chlamys.
4.) Cut and finish neckhole using head circumference.
7.) Finish all hems and seams.
Books
Ball, Jennifer L. Byzantine Dress: Representations of Secular Dress in Eighth- to Twelfth-Century Painting. (New York:
Palgrave MacMillan, 2005).
Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. (New York: Harry N.
Abrams, Inc., 1965).
Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D.
843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997).
Houston, Mary G. Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume. (London: Adam & Charles Black, 1947).
Kalavrezou, Ioli. Byzantine Women and Their World. (Cambridge: Harvard University Art Museums, 2003).
Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963).
Treadgold, Warren. A History of the Byzantine State and Society. (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1997).
Articles
----. "Byzantine Dress." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_dress.
Bruhn, Jutta-Annette. Coins and Costume in Late Antiquity. (Washington D.C.: Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and
Collection, 1993).
Elphinstone, Megan (MKA Sharon Rust-Ryburn). "Early Byzantine Clothing, Ornamentation and Accessories: Eastern
Roman Empire, 5th - 6th Century". (March 2006).
http://www.srclink.net/users/Meghan_Elphinstone/MeghanByzantineClothing.pdf.
Websites
Byzantine Times and Mosaics. http://library.thinkquest.org/04oct/01181/byzantium.htm.
Fashion Encyclopedia.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-The-Byzantine-Empire/index.html.
Images
Image 1: "Icon with Saint Eudokia." Early 10th c. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art
and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 42.
Image 2: "The Sebastocrator Kaloian and his consort, Dessislava." 1259. The Resurrection."Rice, David Talbot. Art of the
Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 189.
Image 3: “Pseudo Kufic script in medallion on Byzantine shroud of Saint Potentien 12th century.”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pseudo_Kufic_script_in_medallion_on_Byzantine_shroud_of_Saint_Potentien_12th_centu
ry_rotated.jpg.
Image 4: "Emperor Nikephoros III Botaneiates and Courtiers." From the Homilies of John Chrysostom. ca. 1071-1081.
Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D.
843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 208.
Image 5: "The Emperor Nicephorus Botiniates (1078-81) between St John Chrysostom and the Archangel Michael." The
Homilies of St John Chrysostom. Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963).
pg 123.
Image 6: "Representation of the Icon of the Virgin Hodegetria." Late 14th c. Kalavrezou, Ioli. Byzantine Women and Their
World. (Cambridge: Harvard University Art Museums, 2003). pg 114.
Image 7: "Portrait of the High Admiral Apocaucos." ca. 1342. Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London:
Thames and Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 248.
Image 8: "Dioskorides Presented with Copies of His Book." De materia medica by Dioskorides. 1229. Evans, Helen C.
and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New
York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 430.
Image 9: "Abu Zayd before a Judge in the City of Merv." Maqamat of al-Hariri. 1222-1223. Evans, Helen C. and William D.
Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N.
Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 429.
Image 10: "Saints Prokopios, Demetrius and Nestor." Rice, David Talbot. Art of the Byzantine Era. (London: Thames and
Hudson, Ltd, 1963). pg 131.
Image 11: "The empress Saint Theophono, first wife of Leo VI." Menologium of Basil II. Treadgold, Warren. A History of
the Byzantine State and Society. (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1997). pg 465.
Image 12: "The Dance of Miriam and the Israelite Women." 1058-1059. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The
Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.,
1997). pg 206.
Image 13: "Christ Crowning Michael VII Doukas (relabeled Nikephoros III Botaneiates) and Maria of Alania. Illustration
from the Homilies of John Chrysostom. Evans, Helen C. and William D. Wixom, ed. The Glory of Byzantium: Art and
Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era, A.D. 843 - 1261. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997). pg 182.