Woodworking Crafts #3

NEW!
HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING ● TURNING ● RESTORATION ● DIY
Issue 3 August 2015
CREATING
JOINTS
Using basic hand
tool techniques
BANDSAW
BREAKDOWN
Part I
Faceplate
GREEN
WOODWORKING:
turning:
Gypsy flowers wall clock
Small space woodworking, Candlelight trio, The restorer's workshop
Pallet wine rack, DIY consumables, Drawbored table
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Community
8 84
34
In the August issue...

COMMUNITY POWER WOODWORKING HAND WOODWORKING
8 Woodland ways – trees from 4 Trio of tealight holders 10 Beginner’s guide to butt
ancient times joints
22 Turned wall clock
15 News & events 31 Small Space Woodworking
18 Woodworking at Phoenix 26 Bandsaw breakdown – part 1
House Recovery Centre 34 Green woodworking – gypsy
56 Curtain pelmets flowers on a shavehorse
46 Reader group test – IRWIN
62 Plans for you – modular 40 Compound-angle joinery
48 Hints, tips & jigs seating
72 Readers’ letters 45 Hand woodworking insight
80 Bosch GLM Professional
75 Kit & tools Laser Rangefinder & R60 51 Re-handling a Stanley
78 Book reviews Measuring Level combination plane
UPCYCLING & RESTORATION
82 Reader subs page 76 DIY consumables – part 2
UPCYCLING & RESTORATION
88 Q&A – expert advice 84 Green woodworking –
68 The restorer’s workshop tools of the trade
90 Next issue
– a miscellany
96 Design inspiration – shelving
2 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WWC03 P2-3 CONTENTS & LEADERtfABJRSD.indd 2 17/06/2015 09:16

Community
31 Welcome
to the August issue of
Woodworking Crafts
H
ello and welcome to issue 3 of Woodworking Crafts
magazine. Whether you have followed us from the
first issue or only just got on board, you will soon
get the idea that my true colours are showing through. Yes,
to paraphrase the expression ‘dyed in the wool’ I am most
definitely ‘dyed in the wood’. Anything to do with trees,
the natural environment, edge tools and recycling, that
really defines me and in a sense this magazine also. If you
get where I’m coming from, then I hope you are enjoying
the magazine and its varied content – sometimes ‘woody’,
sometimes not. To me, everything in our world is joined
together in some way or other and that for me is what makes
it interesting and fun. Let me know what ‘floats your boat’
– maybe there is scope for it in the pages of this magazine?
In any case, let me know what you think of the show so far
– and don’t say ‘rubbish!’ – recycle instead…
51 Anthony Bailey, Editor

Email: [email protected]
Erratum
In issue 2, at the end of Louise Biggs’ elm chest restoration
article, we incorrectly stated that her French polishing article
would be appearing in this issue – 3. However, this should
have read issue 4. Apologies again for this error and we hope
you enjoy
y j y Louise’s p
pelmets article instead.
26
Woodwork on the web
To find more great projects, tests and techniques
like these, visit our fantastic website at:
4
www.woodworkersinstitute.com
Woodworking Crafts issue 03 3
WWC03 P2-3 CONTENTS & LEADERtfABJRSD.indd 3 11/06/2015 09:36

Power woodworking
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
What you will need:

• Handsaw – panel or crosscut
• Tealight inserts
Trio of
• Hand plane
• Hand or pillar drill
• Clamp or vice
• Carpenter’s/engineer’s square
Tealight holders
• Pencil
• Drill bit to suit the tealight inserts
• Abrasives down to 180 grit
• Sanding sealer or diluted varnish
• Liming wax
Anthony Bailey and Mark Baker • Suede or copper/bronze brush
•S tiff paint brush, toothbrush or
make these elegant tealight holders similar
• Danish oil or similar
• Lint-free cloth or paper towel
C
andlesticks and tealight holders smooth turned section for the top • Felt or rubber pads for feet
are fun to make and, of course, and a weathered lower base area. • Pair of scissors
provide a wonderful soft light It could be planed square all round
at dinners and other such events, and then turned or even left as smooth
both indoors and outdoors. It seems towers or you could go for a ‘raw and
that every house has some form of rough’ rustic look. We decided to make
soft ambient lighting, so we set about three rustic graduated height towers
making some of our own. with a bit of liming, which helped to
We thought about what we could soften the look a little and make the
use for timber and wondered if we items a little more elegant.
could repurpose an old weathered, Of course, the choice is yours, but here
oak (Quercus robur) fencepost for is how we set about making our trio.
our holders, which was just under
100 × 100mm but out of square. The
fencepost was free to us, so there was
no cost, which gave us options as far
1 Here is the old fence post and
a selection of tealight and candle
inserts. We opted to use tealights for
as what to do with it. As mentioned, this project. They are not as high as a
it was out of square, so we could have candle, but still give out the same light
turned it to create a combination of a output – the choice is yours. 1
Power woodworking
42
95
180
220
250
95
Safety
Candlesticks/tealight holders must Making a base wider is not always and the candle or tealight. They are
be stable in use and not easily toppled practical. It is possible to make the not only effective barriers for flames,
if touched, jostled, etc. and the height base heavier by inserting lead or a but due to the availability of many
and base size must work together as a similar heavy material, which will styles and colours, they are also
result. Too high on a small base and it create the weight and will ensure highly visual.
is unstable, so, the higher the piece, the that things are kept stable. Never leave lit tealights and
heavier and often wider the item needs It is also advisable to use glass candlesticks untended and never
to be at the base, which will help to or metal candle or tealight inserts place lit tealights or candlesticks
create stability. to act as a barrier between the wood near flammable materials.
2 Measure and mark the post to give

you the heights of holder you need.
The post we had allowed us to get
three pieces from it: 250mm, 215mm
and 175mm high. A little was allowed
on the 250mm one so we could cut the
end of the post cleanly and square. You
could, of course, cut it square before
marking it.
3 Once cut to length, mark the centre

at one end on each post.
4 Using a drill – a powered hand-

held or pillar drill will work fitted
with the right sized drill bit for the
2 3
inserts you are using – drill a hole to

the correct depth. Irrespective of the
drilling method used, make sure you
hold the work securely while drilling
it. For the tealight inserts we chose,
we used a sawtooth cutter and a
carpenter’s square to check the drill
was vertical when drilling the hole.
5 Once the holes are drilled, chamfer

off the top edges. The bottom
edges can also be done if you want to.
A hand plane creates a crisp chamfer;
using an abrasive will create a softer,
rounder-edged chamfer. ➤ 4 5
WWC03 P4-6 TRIO OF TEALIGHT HOLDERStfABJRSD.indd 5 11/06/2015 09:38

Power woodworking
6 Now to open up the grain. This

will not only remove some of the
debris, but on the open grain, the
liming paste has somewhere to sit.
A metal bristle suede shoe brush is
ideal for this, but you could also use a
copper or bronze bristle brush. A steel
bristle brush can cause scratches on
the harder areas of the wood and these
will be filled with wax later rather than
just filling the grain.
7 Once brushed, seal the wood with

sanding sealer or thinned varnish. If
you do not seal the surface, the excess 6 7
wax cannot be cleaned off easily so
the item will look cloudy and not have
the clearly defined grain-filled areas
delineated from the plain wood. We
used an aerosol sanding sealer for this.
8 Using a stiff brush, rub in the

liming wax. The one used was a
classic white, but you can get them in
different colours.
9 Once the grain has been filled, let

it dry for 10 minutes or so, then
remove the excess coating of wax on
the top surface. This is easily done
using thinned down Danish oil or 8 9
lemon oil. Don’t flood the piece or you
start dissolving the wax in the thinned
grain. Cotton cloth is ideal for this.
10 Soak the cloth with oil, squeeze

out the excess and then rub
the surface of the wood. The wax will
dissolve and you’ll need to use a fresh
piece of cloth, usually with oil on it, to
clean up the surfaces. If you don’t, you
just smear around the dissolved wax.
11 After cleaning off the excess, the

wax shows up the grain and also
any surface imperfections. Note the
horizontal striations left from when the 10 11
wood was rough sawn to shape – a very
rustic look. A planed surface would
give a very clean look in comparison.
12 Self-adhesive felt – although

rubber pads would work too
– should be cut into square sections
and a square placed in each corner.
If you don’t do this, the bare wood
may scratch any polished surfaces the
items sit on. This is the last thing you
want to happen on a nice dresser,
sideboard or table.
13 If all has gone well, you will

end up with a trio of nice rustic
candle/tealight holders like these. ■ 12 13
WWC03 P4-6 TRIO OF TEALIGHT HOLDERStfABJRSD.indd 6 11/06/2015 09:39

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Community
Woodland ways Trees from

ancient times
Gary Marshall takes a look
at the lime tree, whose history
lies back in ancient times
T
hink of a lime (Tilia vulgaris) tree and you may
picture just one type. However, there are around 30
distinct species in the genus Tilia worldwide. They
generally have telltale zigzag twigs and heart-shaped leaves.
Limes range from the American basswood (Tilia americana)
to the rare and lovely Tilia tuan from China, as well as many
hybrids and cultivars.
This article concerns three closely related types; the
common lime – a hybrid (Tilia x vulgaris) and our British
native trees – the small-leaved lime (Tilia cordata) and the
large-leaved lime (Tilia platyphyllos).
The common lime is a familiar tree in the British Isles;
it’s a hybrid between the small-leaved and large-leaved
limes and is best seen in an open parkland setting. It’s
valued for its stately, tall form, for its bright, lime green
leaves emerging in spring and for browsing livestock.
Visionary landscapers like Capability Brown planted limes
and other trees in naturalistic clumps; others laid out
imposing avenues that still exist today. The fine dome
shaped tracery is a good identifying feature, before the
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MARSHALL UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
leaves fully emerge. The tallest common lime stands at

46.5m in Reelig Glen, Inverness and in Bifrons Park, Kent
there is a common lime with a trunk nearly 10m in girth.
Limes are often pollarded in town and village streets –
to reduce sticky, dripping honeydew from aphids.
Common lime variability

Look out for pruned trees with a mass of epicormic
growth from the base, growth from cut branches and
bulbous swellings on the trunk. Naturally, ‘messy’ forms
are wonderful wildlife niches for insects, birds and small
mammals, including bats. Also look for fluted trunks with
large buttresses and ‘well-behaved’ trees with straight clean
The author standing by the largest known remnant trunks and little or no epicormic growth. Common limes
stand of Tilio-Acerion forests dating from c.4,500BC have genetic traits from both parents but with varying
degrees of dominance, hybridisation may exaggerate
such traits and these factors account for differing forms.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
The most common lime trees planted from the 17th

century onwards were from just a few distinct Dutch clones
– cuttings or sprouted stems. Hybrids occur naturally in
Europe. This is unlikely in Britain, because of scattered
lime populations and fertility issues, so virtually all
common limes in the British Isles were planted by man.
Carving blanks of lime are most likely to come from
Scotland or abroad. Woodcarvers rate lime wood as it
is light, stable and can be cut in any direction. Much of
Grinling Gibbons’ famous work is in lime wood. It’s used by
musical instrument makers and for hop poles. The flowers
Leaf and flower of a lime (Tilia vulgaris) tree are prized by apiarists and are also gathered for herbal teas.
Community
Parkland with classic lime

tracery and domed forms
Gary Marshall
Gary has had a lifelong interest in
woodlands and the countryside. He
trained in countryside management
and subsequently ran a company
working with the local County
Councils and Unitary Authority
Open grown common lime at Kew Gardens and their Countryside and Rights
showing good form
of Way Teams, as well as a wide
range of conservation organisations,
Above: Regrowth
including the Woodland Trust.
from coppiced
Although supposedly retired, Gary
large-leaved limes
still keeps his hand in, writing the odd
Left: ‘Wildwood’ management plan – and article! He
small leaved limes also works as a volunteer on rights of
near Cheddar, in way and woodland work, as a trustee
Somerset of a woodland charity as well as a
networker in the local rural scene.
pendulous branches – or are they roots? Some are coppiced,

recently or long ago, some pollarded with large crowns.
Many have regrown, straight and tall; others gnarled and
twisted, ent-like. A few are massive and have tumbled down,
with rotting trunks but still have vigorous roots. They’re all
small-leaved limes growing in one of the largest woods in
the country where they still dominate the canopy. Is this
similar to the old ‘wildwood?’.
Our native limes
Small leaved and large-leaved limes only occur in ancient Native large-leaved limes in a rare setting
woodland – i.e. woodland that has been in existence since Until the 1990s, stands of native large-leaved limes were
at least 1600 in England and Wales. Some 6,000 years ago, believed to grow only in a few locations in the Pennines, the
small-leaved limes were the dominant woodland canopy Cotswolds and the Wye Valley. However, more than a dozen
species, on a line roughly from the Humber to the Severn sites have since been found near the base of the South
and in east Wales. They are not native to Scotland or Ireland. Downs. My first visit to the largest of these sites is shown in
Limes had declined sharply by Roman times and slowly the opening photo. The next visit was a shock – large-scale
since. Theories behind this are various, including: reducing felling had taken place – but this was supervised by English
seed fertility/viability, which is still a problem and may be Nature, to rejuvenate the wood. After 10 years, I returned
due to climate changes; increased browsing; harvesting lime again to see excellent regrowth from old roots, while the
bast – long fibres under the bark – for rope making and man fast rotting stumps are providing nutrients to aid vigour.
selecting in favour of trees such as oak (Quercus robur), ash
(Fraxinus excelsior) and hazel (Corylus avellana). Longevity
Limes are remarkable trees. Unless completely grubbed out
Where native small-leaved limes still reign they can be ‘almost indestructible’. A site of lime coppice
Imagine a steep track up a limestone scarp, going deeper stools in Gloucestershire is around 2,000 years old – some
into a large wood in the Mendips. Masses of ramsons – believe it may even go back 6,000 years. Nevertheless,
wild garlic – and bluebells carpet the ground. Overhead ancient woodlands, where small-leaved limes dominate
are extraordinarily diverse trees. Some with smooth straight are localised and those where large-leaved limes grow
trunks look a bit like ash, others have weird outgrowths and are rarer still. Such woods are a direct link to the past. ■
WWC03 P8-9 WOODLAND WAYStfABJRSD.indd 9 11/06/2015 09:40

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS
Hand woodworking
Basic hand-cut joints

Our man in America, Michael T Collins explores
cutting butt and cross half-lap joints
A
s a boy, attending secondary knew everything there was to know perfect and you will make mistakes,
school in England in the about wood, tools and techniques. but you will learn from them. Working
’70s, I was required to take He instilled in me a passion for wood is a progression and it takes
woodworking classes as part of my woodworking. I realise now that he time and patience for these skills to
education. For most of us, this was our was probably a disciple of the School be developed.
first encounter with using traditional of Sloyd, a system of learning that
hand tools. We learned how to imparts knowledge, order and Basic joinery techniques
manipulate wood by planing, sawing exactness of skills in ever-increasing At the outset, woodworking requires
and chiselling and created all sorts levels of difficulty with little or no some fundamental skills that over time
of things, including garden dibbers, hands-on assistance from the teacher. will become second nature. These skills
boxes, chessboards and coffee tables. There’s an old proverb: “Tell me will develop into good habits and once
40 years on, I am still using some and I’ll forget, show me and I may muscle memory takes over, you will
of my early creations and can still remember, let me do and I will learn.” never forget how to hold and use tools.
recall the sense of pride at having To really learn woodworking, one has So let’s look at some basic joinery and
created something with my own hands. to learn experientially. As a beginner techniques that can be developed into
Mr Young, our woodwork teacher, woodworker, you are not going to be skills that will last a lifetime.
WWC03 P10-13 BEGINNERS GUIDE-BUTT JOINTStfJRABSD.indd 10 11/06/2015 09:41

Hand woodworking
Red oak cut through the cells Stud joined with nails or screws and Mitre joint on a picture frame held with
a dowel joint, both examples of using only glue
The butt joint mechanical means to joint end grain to
I’m going to start with the most basic long grain
joint of all: the butt joint. This joint
consists of two pieces of wood that a biscuit, mortise and tenon, dowels
are simply butted against each other, or pocket screws in addition to glue.
typically forming a ‘T’ joint or corner Picture frames are a good example
joint in a cabinet face frame or mitred of a butt joint – here you can see the
corners of a picture frame or box. result of a butt joint using only glue;
The strongest butt joint consists of the wood has started to pull away due
joining straight grain to straight, such to seasonal change. With joining end
as when joining boards for a tabletop grain to long grain, where the wood is Lapped dovetail or half-blind dovetail
– see issue 2, pages 51-54. This is moving at different rates, it is clear that
because boards that are cut lengthwise a stronger joint is needed. are often used interchangeably, but
preserve the grain structure, whereas while a halving and half lapped joint
joining end grain to end grain or end Half-lap, halving joint or is a lapped joint, a lapped joint is not
grain to straight grain slices through lap joint always a halved joint.
cells that were once strong and the Let’s look at joining wood with another Here you can see a half-blind
original strength of the board is lost. joint that is suitable for picture frames, dovetail joint which is a lap joint, but
With joints of this weaker nature, face frames: the half-lap or halving clearly both pieces do not have half the
there is no easy way to join the sliced joint. This joint has many names, but thickness removed. If the timber is of
end grain back together with glue they are all essentially the same joint. differing dimensions, then the amount
alone. Any glue applied to end grain is As the name implies, in the half-lap cut away will vary, but the resulting
wicked from the surface and produces halving joint, the amount of wood cut joint is generally the thickness of the
a starved joint. A joint of this nature away is half the thickness of the wood. thickest piece of wood. In this article,
requires mechanical fasteners, such as The terms halved/half-lap joint and lap I will only be looking at half-lap joints.
Butt joints
What you will need:

• Tenon saw
• Marking knife
• Marking gauge
• Jack and block plane
• Try square
• Bench hook
• Vice
• 19mm bevel-edge chisel
1 2
1 First, all the stock must be prepared

to the project’s final dimensions.
Plane the wood square, then check
2 Continue the line on the edge sides
using a pencil. The inside edge can
be marked with the knife as this will
using a try square. I will start by not be seen, but because the outside
demonstrating a simple half-lap joint edge will be visible, be sure to use a
that can be used for a picture frame pencil here.
or face frame. Using the try square
and marking knife, mark the location
of the joint adding 1mm for waste.
This waste will be planed off once
3 Now take the marking gauge and
find the centre of the edge side.
This does not need to be measured.
the joint is finished. Instead, set the gauge to approximately
3 ➤

Hand woodworking
4 5 6
half the thickness of the stock and mark

from both the face and opposite side.
Adjust the gauge – using light taps on
the marking gauge stalk – until the
marks coincide.
4 Then, from the face side, you can

mark the depth of the lap joint.
Take care not to allow the gauge to
follow the grain – steadily increasing
the pressure on the gauge will help.
Mark the two sides and the end grain. 7 8
Using the marking knife or chisel on
the face side, cut a ‘V’ notch on the to keep the saw perpendicular to the to take more wood off than to put
waste side of the knife line. wood’s face is to look at the reflection it back.
in the blade – you want the wood to
5 Place your cross cut saw in the

notch and using your non-dominant
thumb as a guide, make several small
appear as if it continues in a straight
run through the saw. 7 Once glued, use the block plane
to clean up the joint – note the
direction I am planing: from the joint
cuts to start. I always start on the back
stroke on the far side as this severs the
fibres and prevents tear-out. Saw down
6 Finish off the joint by placing the
piece in the vice at 45° and saw as
we did for cutting tenons in issue 1 –
end in with a slight angle of attack;
this way end fibres are sliced.
to the centreline, paying particular

attention to the backside of the joint
as you do not want to cut beyond the
see pages 68-71. Note how the index
finger points in the direction you want
the saw to go. Repeat for the other
8 Variations on this joint include
mitred lap joints, particularly for
picture frames; this would certainly
line. With practice, you will be able to piece. The joint may need some fine- avoid those unsightly gaps and still
saw vertically, but initially a good way tuning but go easy – it’s always easier show the typical mitre.
Cross half-lap joint
1 2 3
1 Let’s look at another half-lap joint,

but this time in the middle of two
pieces. Using the marking knife and
2 Remove the top piece and place
your marking knife in the mark
just made, moving the try square so
3 As before, using the marking gauge,
start to find and mark the depth of
the joint, then cut a ‘V’ notch on the
the try square, mark the location of the that it is now resting against the knife. waste side of the two knife lines. I am
joint. Then, without moving the try Deepen the line and carry all marking sure you are beginning to realise by
square, place the second piece tight lines around the edges. As the whole now that much of woodworking is the
up against the try square. With the joint will be hidden in this instance, steady repeated application of a few
marking knife against the second piece, you can use the marking knife on the basic skills. Saw down the two marks –
nick the corner of the bottom piece. face edges. be careful to not go beyond them.

Hand woodworking
4 5
6 7
4 With the help of the bevel chisel,

pare away from one side to
produce a slope.
that is too tight may bow the pieces.
Now use this finished joint to mark the
second piece and repeat the process of
marking, sawing and paring.
5 It’s tempting to try and remove

all the waste at once, but you
must resist this temptation. Repeat 8 Once pared, the two pieces should
now fit perfectly. Apply glue to all
the paring from the other side, creating mating surfaces. At this point, the faces
a ‘roof’. can be planed if necessary. If there are
secrets to woodworking they are: take
6 And finally, pare away and tidy

up the bottom of the joint with a
slicing action – as you can see here,
your time, measure accurately, mark
from the face sides and cut on the
waste side.
the fingers of the left hand act as a Michael T Collins
pivot point.
9 Here are a few variations on
the theme of lap joints. Try
Michael has been working with wood
off and on for 40 years. Having run out
7 Now take this piece and place it in

position over the mating piece –
the joint should be hand tight, but do
experimenting for yourself! ■ of projects in the UK, he moved to a
small village in the heart of the Finger
Lakes in Upstate New York with his
not force them together. If the fit is too NEXT MONTH… family in 1996. Over the years, he has
tight, then take a very thin shaving off In the next issue, Michael will move made bespoke furniture, including
on to looking at bridle joints
the edge of the uncut piece – a joint clocks, inlay work, Adams fireplaces,
book cases, reproduction furniture,
woodcarvings, restorations, bowls,
tables and some major construction
projects. As a mathematician by
training, he is constantly looking to
solve puzzles and woodworking for
him is a continual process of solving
puzzles – or maybe that’s just the way
he works…
Web: www.sawdustandwoodchips.
com
Twitter: @sawdustandwood
8 9

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014_WWC_003.indd 14 11/06/2015 14:45

Community
NEWS &
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON HAMMOND

Below: Reclaimed
teak (Tectona grandis),
oak (Quercus robur)
and Eastbourne
EVENTS groyne greenheart

(Chlorocardium rodiei)
drum kit
150mm pier wood bowl
All the latest events and news

from the world of woodworking...
Jon Hammond –
Serenity Custom Drums
Jon Hammond is the artist behind Serenity Custom Drums,
a high-end English drum boutique creating bespoke
hand-carved and turned fine percussive instruments from
reclaimed, historical woods. With Serenity, Jon gets to
combine his love for woodturning and drums.
Last summer, the beloved Eastbourne Pier caught fire
and Jon was able to reclaim what little of the 100-year-old
decking survived the blaze with help from his local MP,
Stephen Lloyd, for bowls only. “Of course, the wood is very
weathered ekki (Lophira alata), charred and cracked, full of
a million footsteps, salt and sand, but its history is immense.
Just knowing Churchill alone stood on it is enough for me,” as he treats each piece like a sculpture, only ever working
he comments. Thanks to his experience with other reclaimed with limited, reclaimed sources of wood. He prefers to leave
and ancient wood, Jon already knew how to carve it, so he as much evidence of whatever life the wood has had in his
made one bowl. The Facebook post Jon put online then work as possible.
went viral and he received over 300 messages in two days. Find out more about his work by seeing details below.
“I set up my woodturner Facebook page to cope with the
influx,” he tells us. Jon now has very little of the pier wood Contact: Jon Hammond
left and demand is still very high. “Each bowl takes a long Web: www.serenitycustomdrums.co.uk
time to complete,” Jon explains, as he sands to 7,000 grit Facebook: www.facebook.com/jonhammondwoodturner;
and finishes with a food-safe wax. www.facebook.com/serenitycustomdrums
Jon doesn’t describe himself as a traditional woodturner
The Woodlands Country Show

The Woodlands Country Show 2015 is set to be a great
weekend with so much to see and do. The show is packed
with exhibits, activities and entertainment for all. Families
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WOODLAND CRAFTS EVENTS MANAGEMENT
will be able to experience a fun-packed day out with an

amazing range of countryside activities – there’s everything
from falconry displays to ferret racing, from chutneys to
chainsaws! There are live demonstrations and ‘have-a-go’
areas and the Crafts marquee and trade stands will be
offering a wealth of treasures as well as a wonderful array of
food and drink to tempt you. A family show is not complete
without some entertainment, music and refreshments. There
really is a huge variety of delightful attractions to appeal to
both rural and urban tastes – a show not to be missed!
When: 11–12 July, 2015

Where: Royal Victoria Country Park, Netley Abbey,
Southampton SO31 5GA
Contact: Woodland Crafts Events Management
Mr Mushroom at last year’s event Web: www.woodlandcrafts.co.uk/woodlands-country-show
WWC03 P15-17 NEWS&EVENTStfABJRSD.indd 15 11/06/2015 09:43

Community
Handmade
at Kew
This new international consumer event
for contemporary crafts will take place
at the prestigious UNESCO world
heritage site, Kew Gardens in October.
The show is a chance to buy directly
from individual makers and galleries
and discover the stories behind the
work of talented craftspeople. Over
150 designer-makers will showcase
Summer
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ONE VOICE MEDIA

work across a variety of disciplines,
including: ceramics, jewellery, fashion
and textiles, glass, paper, furniture
and metalwork.
CRAFT When: 8–11 October, 2015

Where: Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew,
Richmond, Surrey TW9 3AB
SHOWS Contact: Handmade in Britain

Tel: 020 7286 5110
Web: www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk
The Chilterns Craft & Design Show returns to Stonor Park near Henley-on-Thames
from 28–31 August followed by the Weald of Kent Craft & Design Show
at Penshurst Place, near Tonbridge from 11-13 September, 2015.
Both shows will feature a host of exquisite and fine British crafts. It’s a chance to
discover beautiful pieces for the home including furniture and glassware as well as
jewellery, luxury beauty products and leather goods. As well as browsing the crafts
marquees, visitors can take part in demonstrations, workshops and relax in the
beautiful grounds of the house and gardens.
There is plenty of fun for all of the family with a wide range of activities for
children as well as the Graduate Marquee by Informed Design, which brings
a range of stunning work from newly qualified designers. This is a unique
opportunity to snap up exquisite pieces at fantastic prices from the next ‘big
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF NIGEL NORTHEAST

names’ in the industry. Visitors are invited to browse work made with the
utmost care to the highest quality that is inspired by innovative design.
There will also be a host of specialist food and drink marquees, a café,
Eatons Bar, plus much more.
When: The Chilterns Craft & Design Show: 28–31 August, 2015; the Weald of Kent
Craft & Design Show: 11–13 September, 2015
Where: The Chilterns Craft & Design Show: Stonor Park, Stonor, Henley-on-Thames
RG9 6HF; the Weald of Kent Craft & Design Show: Penshurst Place & Gardens,
Penshurst Place, Penshurst TN11 8DG
Contact: ICHF Events ‘Etagere’ by Nigel Northeast, one of the
Tel: 01425 277 988 designer-makers who will be appearing
Web: www.ichfevents.co.uk at this event
NATURE FORCE and biscuits. No minimum time commitment

WARWICKSHIREWILDLIFETRUST.ORG.UK
Join Nature Force, the Wildlife Trust’s is required. Nature Force runs every Tuesday,
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.
dedicated team of volunteers carrying Wednesday and Thursday, so pop along and
out practical conservation on their nature join in, get fit and get out into nature.
reserves. There isn’t a better way to visit
Warwickshire Wildlife Trust Nature Reserves. When: Throughout July and August
You’ll get to visit reserves that you may not Where: Brandon Marsh Nature Reserve, Brandon
have been to before, join a team of friendly Marsh Nature Centre, Brandon Lane, Coventry,
volunteers and get active. You don’t need Warwickshire CV3 3GW
to be an expert; they’ll provide training and Contact: The Wildlife Trusts
tools. Just take a packed lunch and the leaders Web: www.wildlifetrusts.org/ The Wildlife Trust’s Nature
will make sure that there’s plenty of hot drinks events/2015/01/06/nature-force Force – volunteer today!

Community
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.CHARLIEWHINNEY.COM

WOODWORKING
IN THE NEWS...
Shipping packaging
The Forestry Commission is urging
importers to comply with regulations
to protect Britain’s trees and plants
from invasive pests and diseases.
Importers using wood packaging
in shipments must comply with
regulations to protect Britain’s trees
and plants from invasive pests, which
Upcoming courses Steam-bending

expert Charlie
include the Asian longhorn beetle.
Ships carrying wood that poses a
at Marc Fish’s workshop

Whinney in his threat to British plant and tree health,
workshop in the form of wood packaging and
dunnage, are being stopped at ports
One-day steam-bending course of entry to England and having their
Taking place at Marc Fish’s workshop is this one-day course with Charlie packaging destroyed as the wood
Whinney, who is the UK’s leading steam-bending expert. His work is sold may be carrying invasive insect
internationally and can be found in museums, private residences and commercial pests. There are strict international
premises. Prominent commissions include the Eden Project and Harvey Nichols regulations for the standard of wood
department store in London. Based in Cumbria, Charlie’s love of steam-bending packaging material and dunnage that
is instantly obvious; his passion for the subject makes him an ideal tutor. Charlie is used to ship goods. Materials must
is really hands-on and gets students motivated and excited. This course is be treated and marked according to
included in Marc’s full-time one- and two-year courses. The cost of the course is the International Plant Protection
£240 and includes all materials. Convention standard as a precaution
against the movement of live pests or
Make a Krenov-inspired hand plane with Theo Cook pathogens that may be present in the
Also taking place at Marc Fish’s workshop, this weekend course teaches you how wood before it is exported.
to make a wooden plane. This will involve skills such as bandsawing, routing, The insect pests become more of a
drilling, shaping with a spokeshave, sanding and finishing. Students will be risk as the weather warms up, as their
provided with a comprehensive booklet at the beginning of the course and leave larval life stages develop more quickly
with a completed plane and the skills and knowledge they need to repeat the in the heat. The Asian longhorn beetle
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MARC FISH
exercise on their own. The course is taught by Theo Cook, who trained at the appears to be one of the higher risks
Barnsley Workshop in the UK and under James Krenov at the College of the to our environment’s health. The
Redwoods in the US. Materials and blades are supplied; however, if students wish government increased their funding
to use their own timber, Marc can advise on sizes required and for timber and wooden project
do the preparation work prior to the course start inspection in 2014, which meant that
date if the wood is sent to him. 122 interceptions on non-compliant
wooden packaging and dunnage
When: Steam-bending course: 18 July, 2015; were undertaken at five British ports.
Make a Krenov-inspired hand plane course: Some of the interceptions found that
29–30 August, 2015 wood packaging material was often
Where: ‘Robinson House studio’, Robinson Road, carrying live insect pests and had to
Newhaven, East Sussex BN9 9BL be destroyed, treated or re-exported.
Contact: Marc Fish
Tel: 01273 513 611 Make a Krenov-inspired Contact: The Forestry Commission
Web: www.marcfish.co.uk hand plane with Theo Cook Tel: 03000 674 321
Web: www.forestry.gov.uk
Woodworkers Insধtute compeধধon winner announced

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COM
We were inundated with entries for our recent online competition to celebrate
the launch of our new magazine, Woodworking Crafts. Unsurprisingly, lots of you
wanted to be in with the chance of getting your hands on our £280 prize bundle
but unfortunately, there could only be one winner. The winner was Martin D and a
Hitachi cordless sabre saw, an IRWIN Record smoothing plane and a Skil multi-tool,
plus many other woodworking goodies, will be winging their way to him very soon!
Keep checking our website – www.woodworkersinsধtute.com – for future
COMMONS
giveaways and competitions and congratulations again to Martin! The Asian longhorn beetle

Community
Col Bridgeman and Tony Wilson raise

the barrier to open the workshop
Woodworking at
Phoenix House
Recovery Centre
Walter Hall reports from the opening of Phoenix
House Recovery Centre’s woodworking workshop
P
hoenix House Recovery Centre is includes, among its many facilities and programme. What was originally just a
located at Catterick Garrison in services, a Woodworking Volunteer ‘wouldn’t it be nice if we had a proper
North Yorkshire. It is run by the programme that offers opportunities workshop’ idea has, with the support
charity Help for Heroes and supported for beneficiaries to gain first-hand of the woodworking industry and
by the Royal British Legion. To quote experience of turning, carving and many individual benefactors, made it
from the Help for Heroes website: “The generally working with wood. possible to provide wounded, injured
Centre aims to inspire those who have and sick service personnel and veterans
been wounded, injured or become sick New woodworking workshop with workshops, tutoring and support
while serving our country and enable The woodworking workshop that in a dedicated and properly equipped
them to lead active, independent and has now been provided to support facility.
fulfilling lives.” One way in which the programme is the brainchild of Chris, with support from Robert
this support is provided is through former Warrant Officer Chris Morgan, Sorby Ltd, launched the appeal at the
an Arts and Crafts programme, run who was instrumental in setting 2013 North of England Woodworking
mainly by volunteers and which up the Woodworking Volunteer and Power Tool Show and has worked
WWC03 P18-21 PHOENIX HOUSEtfABJRSD.indd 18 11/06/2015 09:44

Community
Woodturner Tony Wilson prepares for the

official opening
Col Bridgeman CBE TD DL, Master of

the Worshipful Company of Turners
about to officially open the workshop
Chris is interviewed for BBC Radio Tees Chris welcomes a visitor to the workshop
tirelessly with fellow volunteers and

centre staff to generate funding,
sponsorship and support for the facility
through fundraising events and by
inviting members of the woodworking
industry to get involved by donating
many of the tools and machinery with
which the workshop is now equipped.
It is hoped that this workshop will only
be the first of many, and that in the
future, with the continued generosity
and support of its many benefactors,
the charity will be able to provide
PHOTOGRAPHS BY WALTER HALL
similar facilities at some or all of its

other Recovery Centres.
A ‘life changing’ project

The Woodworking Workshop was
officially opened on 22 April, 2015.
Chris began the event by giving a short
history of how the workshop came ➤ Bob Taylor with some of his work

Community
Visitors view the facili es
The Legacy CNC woodworking machine A fine chest and set of tools provided by Percy Moss
about and by thanking those present today have often lost their meaning deployed to deal with the aftermath
and the many other individuals and but here at the Recovery Centre, I can of the Lockerbie disaster, overcame
organisations who have made the assure you all that this workshop will his problems to express the gratitude
project a reality. Chris said: “When I be life changing – we have already seen of those who have benefited from
had my problems some years ago, apart changes in veterans. The battle cry for the project to the volunteers and
from family, I had my workshop and all of us involved with Help for Heroes benefactors and to explain how
my army mates, so I understand the is ‘Inspire, Enable, Support.’ Everyone important the project had been in
benefits of working with wood and who has contributed in any way to this improving the lives of so many.
having good mates. Working with project has been inspirational, you The official opening was then
wood is so therapeutic; it trains have enabled me to get the workshop performed by Col John Bridgeman,
the mind to concentrate, and when project started and without doubt CBE TD DL, Master of the Worshipful
concentrating on woodwork, you do you are all supporting our wounded, Company of Turners and Tony
not think of other things. For some injured and sick veterans. We still Wilson, professional woodturner and
of the recovering veterans, being in have a long way to go, so keep up volunteer tutor, following which guests
the workshop often reminds them the support.” were given a tour of the workshop
of being back with their mates in the A veteran’s view was then provided where they were able to see for
barrack room and being in a friendly by ex-serviceman Bob Taylor who, themselves the extensive range of
environment can start a recovery/ despite suffering from PTSD following equipment available and refreshments
healing process. Many phrases used his experiences as one of the troops were accompanied by a display of

Community
some of the work produced by the

beneficiaries.
The workshop is extensively
equipped with a wide range of
equipment including a state-of-the-art
CNC woodworking machine adapted
for people in wheelchairs and donated
and commissioned by Utah-based firm,
Legacy. Chris and his colleagues are
grateful to the following companies
who provided not only equipment but
also support and encouragement for
the project:
Robert Sorby Ltd

Trend Machinery & Cutting Tools
Axminster Tools & Machinery
Fercell Engineering – dust
extraction system
Felder UK
Legacy CNC (USA)
Record Power
Peter Sefton
Gedore UK – Bessey Clamps
David Stanley Auctions ■ A pole-lathe turning demonstra on
DETAILS:
Where: Phoenix House Recovery Centre, Richmond Road,
Catterick Garrison, North Yorkshire DL9 3AW
Contact: Phoenix House Recovery Centre
Tel: 01748 834 148
Web: www.helpforheroes.org.uk
Some of the cra work made by the servicemen

Power woodworking
Turned
Wall clock
Mark Baker makes a turned wall Mark Baker
Mark Baker is Group Editor for all
clock using faceplate techniques four of our woodworking magazines
and directly edits both Woodturning
and Woodcarving magazines.
locks are always popular – I get requests every This project is a faceplate exercise. It is more about
C year for them. Look online and in the stores for getting the right depth and width so that you can
the huge variety of clock mechanisms available. assemble everything rather than about complex turning
I bought a typical, widely available mechanism, but if skills, but accuracy is a must to get it to come together.
you buy one of a different size, simply adjust the project I chose cherry (Prunus spp.), although there are many
measurements to match it. The mechanisms are usually alternatives – in fact, I do not know of a wood that
sold in long- or short-reach versions, meaning the shaft could not be used for this project. I love working with
is short or long. Because I wanted to use a thick section fruitwoods. They hold detail well and I love the colour
of wood, I chose the long-reach version. and grain pattern of the wood.
WWC03 P22-25 TURNED CLOCKtfJRAB.indd 22 11/06/2015 09:46

Power woodworking
You will need:

• Bowl gouge
• Beading & parting tool
• Thin parting tool
• Bead forming tool
• Scraper
• Ruler
• Skew chisel
• Drill
• Sanding arbor
• Abrasives down to 320 grit
• Finish of your choice
• Screw chuck or faceplate
• Screw chuck or screw for chuck
• Chuck
• Revolving centre
• Paper towel
• Long-reach clock mechanism
• 1 x clock face
• 1 set of hands for the mechanism 215mm
• Personal protective equipment
3mm bead 3mm bead
(PPE): faceshield, dust mask and 15mm 38mm
extraction
38mm
1 Here you can see the components.

The battery-operated mechanism
comprises the black housing, the
12mm
20mm
washer and the two brass pieces – one

100mm
is a locking nut to hold the mechanism
in place and the other is a spindle cap.
The clock face has a self-adhesive back.
and the two clock hands fit on the
spindle shaft of the mechanism.
2 Measure the diameter of the clock

face so you know how much width
you have to play with in order to add
detail to the turned wood. Then drill
a hole in the centre of the blank to
suit the screw on your screw chuck –
you will be able to drill it all the way
through the wood provided you can
drill square to the face and the screw
used is not too thick.
1 2
3 Mount the wood on the screw
chuck and bring up the tailstock for
support. Clean up the face and then
the outer edge so it is square. Note the
gouge is almost to the very top. If you
cut through beyond the top, then you
run the risk of splintering off the top
face. It is best to reverse the gouge and
cut from the top into the outer edge.
4 Measure the diagonal width of the

mechanism and the depth of the
body and the shaft. The recess needs
to be deep enough to fully house the
mechanism and deep enough for the
shaft to come through the front face
of the wood by about 10mm. 3 4

Power woodworking
5 Mark this measurement on the face

of the wood. This side of the wood
will be the back; the marking indicates
the size needed for a recess to hold the
mechanism.
6 The width of the recess is too wide

for my chuck so the beading &
parting tool can be plunged into the
wood to the required depth and width.
Mark the shaft with a pen or tape so
you know how far you have gone. I
also plunged in with a thin parting tool
to mark the size of a tenon to hold the
piece so the face can be turned later. 5 6
Remove the waste in between the two
plunge cuts.
7 I thought the blank looked a little

thick so decided to take about
3mm off. I also decided to undercut
the face a little so that when it was
placed up against the wall, it would
touch on the outermost edges.
8 Here you can see the undercut.

The corner has a 45° cut on it in
order to take away the harsh edge.
Sand this face and apply your finish.
9 Remove the piece from the lathe, 7 8

reverse it and grip the piece on the
tenon spigot cut. Once secure, clean
up the top face with a bowl gouge. You
can see the hole drilled for the screw
chuck. The face needs to be flat, then,
measure and mark the outer position
of the clock face.
10 Try the face for fit to see that it

is contained within the pencil
mark. I chose to place a bead at the
outermost part and cut it using a bead
forming tool. The inner edge of the
bead is where the pencil mark was.
11 Use the bowl gouge to create

a cavetto – half a cove – on the
outer edge, leaving about 3mm or so
9 10
from the bead. If you end up with an

indistinct shape on the cavetto, you
can use a scraper to refine it further.
Next, cut another bead at the lower
part of the cavetto.
12 Now check to see how much

you need to cut to recess the
locking nut for the mechanism. It
needs to sit flush with the surface. The
corner of the skew chisel, when used in
scraping mode, fitted in here perfectly
to cut a recess. Of course, it blunts the
cutting edge, but it works well as a
scraper at times. 11 12

Power woodworking
13 You can now check for fit – you

are looking for it to be nice and
snug at this stage. That said, if the shaft
of the mechanism doesn’t pass through
the smaller hole, you may just have to
open that up a bit. A slightly larger drill
than the one used for the screw chuck
might be necessary.
14 The next step is to place the

clock face back up to the centre
of the timber and mark the inner edge
of the clock face. To balance it, I felt it
needed a bead there too, which adds a
nice detail. 13 14
15 Next, using the beading tool,

you need to cut another one
with the outermost edge of the tool
on the marked line. You can then sand
and apply a finish to the face and edge
as required.
16 Remove the wood from the

lathe and mount a piece of
waste wood in its place. Cut a flat face
on it. Place tissue paper over it and
bring up the tailstock to hold the
wood in place so that the recess is
at the tailstock end. Using the already
marked centre and bowl gouge, 15 16
remove most of the tenon. Then,
using the beading & parting tool,
clean up the recess, leaving a stub
of timber under the revolving centre.
Remove the wood from the lathe and
carve off the stub of timber and sand
the recess.
17 Once this is done, place the

rubber washer over the shaft
of the mechanism and then lay the
mechanism in the recess with the
shaft in the hole.
18 Now place the gold-coloured

locking nut on the shaft and
tighten up. This means the mechanism
17 18
is now held in place. There is no need
to be over-aggressive in the tightening
up. You can then glue the clock face in This is an extract from
place – there is a peel-off film on this Weekend
one but if yours does not have this, use Woodturning
glue and stick in place instead. Once
this is in place, you can slide the clock
Projects – by
hands on to the mechanism shaft. Note Mark Baker
the smaller hand is placed on first, then ISBN:
screw on the gold cap. 9781861089229
Price: £16.99
19 The completed wall clock

should look something like
this. It is now ready for hanging on
(plus P&P)
Contact: GMC Publications
Tel: 01273 488 005
your wall, where it will come in handy Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
and be admired! ■ 19

PHOTOGRAPH BY BOB ADSETT
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
Power woodworking
BANDSAW
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
BREAKDOWN
– part 1
Bob Adsett explores the essentials of
A two-man pitsaw
bandsaw construction and design
T
he principle of a bandsaw goes move along as the cuts were made. came in and this led to the modern
back to a time before power- Sometimes this was not a pit but a day bandsaw.
driven saws, when logs were wood frame with the log on top, but The bandsaws that are most
converted to boards by the use of a the same principle as the pit saw and commonly seen today are two-wheel
sawpit. Two people would use a large normally worked the same way. There machines, with one wheel above the
hand-held saw with one person at the were numerous types of saw blades other and a table between, all encased
top and one underneath in the pit, used for this work but most were in a suitably sturdy body. The blade
usually an apprentice sawyer or a lad. two-handed saws that needed a lot then runs around both wheels, through
This was a dirty job, as whoever was of muscle power to pull either up or a gap in the table and this is driven by
underneath got covered in wood dust down, depending on the stroke of the a motor.
and any dirt or muck on the outside cut. This changed with the advent of There are guide bearings behind the
of the logs. The log was positioned power-driven saws, either water- or blade and both sides of the blade above
over the pit and the workers would steam-powered. Later, electric motors the table and below. The guides above
WWC03 P26-29 BANDSAW BREAKDOWNtfABJRSD.indd 26 11/06/2015 09:54

Power woodworking
The Kity 613 is

a typical two-
wheel design
Modern bandsaws have roller guides
can be moved up or down to increase The wheels

or decrease the distance between the There are three types of wheel: pressed
table and the wood being fed along the steel, cast alloy and cast-iron. Most

table to be cut. Earlier bandsaws had modern machines have cast alloy or
wooden side guide blocks to control cast-iron and the better ones have
the blade and these would be made curved spokes that absorb stresses
of lignum vitae (Guaiacum officinale) under working loads. They are also
as it was a hardwearing oily wood, heavier than pressed steel and have
but beech (Fagus sylvatica) was also a flywheel effect that helps to maintain
used. The beech blocks were cut to the the blade cutting speed, especially Older machines someধmes had wooden
size required and soaked in oil for a while cutting thicker wood. The edge guide blocks
while, then taken out and allowed to of the wheel or tyre that the blade rides
dry out slightly. When these were then on is normally a rubber or some type
fitted into the bandsaw guide system, of hard synthetic compound that is Secondhand buys
the friction of the blade running convex; this makes the blade try to The back spine also needs to be
through the guides cooked the face run to the centre of the wheel when strong – on my old Kity 613 the
of the blocks and they took on the set correctly. back spine was a ‘C’ frame tube
characteristics of lignum and helped The top wheels are mounted on onto which the rest of the body
lubricate the blade as it cut through either an axle or stub axle with sealed is welded. There is no flex in this
the wood. bearings; these can be replaced as they older machine, so at the right price
will wear over the years. ➤ secondhand, these machines are
CONSTRUCTION a good buy, providing they are in
Let us look at how bandsaws are reasonable condition.
constructed and what to look for in
both new and pre-owned machines.
The body
I look for a good strong frame with
rigid construction and as little flex in
the body between the top half and
bottom half of the machine. There are
a number of types on the market: some
with solid welded frames and some
with bolted frames. The welded frames

are the stronger of these constructions.
The square body construction
machines have two different types of
vertical back: one is a square box frame
and the other is a triangular box frame.
The triangular box is harder to twist
than the square box and this can result The rigid tubular steel arm on the
back of a Kity 613
in a slightly more rigid construction
under working load. A rigid pressed steel casing

Power woodworking
A typical upper bandwheel – note the curved spokes The lower bandwheel is connected to the drive pulley
The tensioning and tracking of the The table

blade is also done with this wheel. Again, we have three different types of
The bottom wheel is the one that the table: pressed steel, alloy and cast-
motor drives and there are two ways iron. Pressed steel works provided
to drive the wheel: one is direct drive they are of a heavy gauge, webbed and
the other is indirect drive. Direct drive welded correctly. The face should also
means the motor is mounted straight be machined flat to make sure there
onto the wheel and the only way to are no uneven or high spots on the
get the blade to run at the best cutting surface. Cast alloy tables that are well
speed is to have a motor that runs at ribbed underneath are normally better
the appropriate RPM. than extruded box sections as they
Indirect drive has the wheel are stronger and can be made in one Each bandwheel has a bearing, which is
mounted on an axle and is driven by section instead of bolting together two replaceable
a belt from a pulley on the motor; this or more pieces.
allows the use of a standard motor and A heavy cast-iron table, well an acid reaction between the oils in
the best cutting speed can be set by machined and flat, wears better than your skin and the cast-iron. Oiling can
using different size pulleys. A useful both other types but will rust if any be used to help protect any cast-iron
by-product of this is that any shock damp is allowed to get into contact machine table.
generated by the blade while cutting with it. To prevent this with a new The table should be mounted to the
is not transmitted directly into the machine, I normally rub some 10/30 machine by good heavy quadrants –
motor bearings, but absorbed by the engine oil into the cast table and leave preferably two – so that when the table
belt. With this type of drive, two- it overnight and then wipe off the is set into a tilted position, it remains
step pulleys can be used to give the excess oil the next day. stable and square. If not, accuracy
bandsaw two speeds by changing Cast-iron is porous and the oil will ‘goes out the window’ and trying to
from one pulley ratio to the other. soak into it and then dry; this will also cut true, both curved or straight lines,
This sometimes helps with very prevent any fingerprint marks showing will prove next to impossible. With one
hard wood or light alloys. as rusty patches on the table. This is quadrant, stability from the back to the
front of the machine can suffer –
Oiling the
cast-iron – leđ –
avoids rust prints
– below
A heavy-duty pair of quadrants, or

trunnions

Power woodworking
The blade fiষng and removal slot A plate holds the table halves together
Roller guides control sideways movement A thrust bearing sits behind the blade There is a wide variety of blades available
even my old Kity machine has two. Widths go from 3mm, which will cut if you pinch it too tight, there is a risk
There will be a slot in the table, a 3mm radius curve right up to the that you may break the blade. As a
either from the blade forwards to the large industrial blades for resawing rough guide, regular tooth blades are
front of the machine or from the blade and commercial saw mills, but the used to cut very thin material while
to the side of the machine. This slot main sizes that you need to look at skip-tooth have wide gullets to cope
allows the blade to be inserted into the will be in the instruction manual with with wood dust when deep cutting.
machine. The blade is slid through the your machine. Maximum blade width
slot and then placed on the wheels. on some of the common mid-range Next time, Bob shows us how to
There will be some device to keep the machines can be as wide as 38mm set and use a bandsaw. ■
two sides of the slot level when the but most people use between 10mm
machine is in use: a bolt, a strap or a and 25mm, depending on the make
tapered pin that taps in. of machine. A 13mm blade will allow
you to cut a 66mm minimum radius
The blade guides curve so as you go down in width
These should be above and below the so the cutting radius also reduces.
table to control the blade while it is Or if you have bought a secondhand
cutting – without these, the blade will machine, it is sometimes possible to
try to take the line of least resistance get information online. Failing that or
and go any way the grain leads it. instead of that, go to your local saw
Blade guides come in all forms: side doctor or machinery supplier and
guides can be bearings, blocks of simply ask – I’m sure they will
wood, manmade material or brass and be happy to help a new customer.
copper. My favourite guides for both The commonly used blades are
are bearings as they should be rotating regular tooth, hook tooth or skip-tooth Bob Adsett
all the time they are cutting and this with between 3-6tpi – teeth per inch – Bob started his woodworking career
will take any heat away. My bandsaw and try to have no less than three teeth in 1967 in furniture manufacturing
has bearings on the back and wooden in the work, as this will sometimes before moving into the construction
blocks on the side and I can still get it snatch at the wood. A coarse blade industry. He then worked as a
to cut ‘veneer thick’ slices off a block at will cut quicker than a finer blade but demonstrator and trainer for Kity
full depth of cut. I find that any form of leave a rougher face, and a finer blade Machines, which included factory-
solid material behind the blade seems will leave a smoother cut but be much based training in Soviet-era Latvia.
to create friction and therefore heat, slower cutting through. Also the tighter He then joined Axminster where he
unless someone can prove me wrong. a radius you wish to cut, the narrower marketed CMT cutters and helped
the blade, and the straighter you wish launch Lamello products. He is now
Blades to cut, the wider the blade. If you try retired and waiting to see what offers
Bandsaw blades come in all types with to cut too tight a radius with too wide may come up!
a wide range of tooth configurations. a blade, you will pinch the blade and

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030_WWC_003.indd 30 11/06/2015 14:46

Hand woodworking
Small space woodworking

Tools you
really need
Anthony Bailey discusses possible projects
and the tools you would need to make them The Gothic-style workstation
C
onventionally, a woodworker and a shelf behind, plus drawer and
has a ‘proper’ workbench cupboard storage. In fact, it has quite
and a place to use it, such as a lot of space available for tidy storage.
a shed or a garage. What if you don’t We must be able to fit quite a lot in.
have those facilities? Well, I’ve already A toolset for cabinetmaking, model
converted a small cupboard in issue making, fretsaw work, etc. is a bit
1 and a shelf unit in issue 2. These different to the DIY toolkit featured in
both give scope for doing smaller issue 1. There is a natural overlap, but
operations that require care, accuracy part of the difference is in the quality of
and a vice to grip workpieces. You the tools and the part is ‘the purpose’.
can do larger jobs on plastic fold-up In other words, for nice work we want
trestles outdoors in good weather or nice tools. A claw hammer or a crowbar
using any other convenient surfaces. are great for putting up or taking down
Let’s start with the red workstation studwork that supports plasterboard
from issue 1. It has a natty parrot vice walls, but finer jobs need a smaller ➤ From old cupboard to workstation
WWC03 P31-33 SMALL SPACE WOODWORKINGtfABJRSD.indd 31 17/06/2015 09:29

Hand woodworking
We are harking back to the era of

‘the gentleman woodworker’, a non-
professional well-to-do gent with
an urge to make practical things in
the home, dating back to at least the
18th century, but common enough
in the late 19th–early 20th century.
Indeed there were some tools made
for such purposes, such as the ‘gents
saw’ which is still available today.
Crown Hand Tools make these and
they are very useful for fine joint
cutting, model making, etc. Visit
www.crownhandtools.ltd.uk for
more information.
hammer and a sharp chisel instead – the following items: a try square or an
vive la difference! engineer’s square – the latter is more
Woodworking operations group accurate; a steel rule 300-600mm long;
A typical toolkit encompasses a range of
thus: measuring and marking, sawing, a marking knife; a medium or fine –
tool types
shaping, planing, chiselling, drilling, harder grade – carpenter’s pencil and
sanding and finishing. We need a steel tape rule – using the 100mm
appropriate tools for each category mark rather than the inaccurate sliding
depending on what we want to do. end. A combined marking and mortise
There are exceptions, for instance gauge allows you to set out joints. You
Amber Bailey uses an old-fashioned can always add other things but this
treadle fretsaw and a modern hand will do most operations.
fretsaw to cut out marquetry pieces
so she doesn’t use most of the items SAWS
suggested by the groups above. Bear in mind that timber yards and
Model making will need smaller good DIY outfits can cut wood to
versions of cabinetmaking tools, length and it is often available already
such as a palm plane, while musical planed to specific sizes so that part Top: rip and whack; bottom: pare and tap
instrument making needs special of the work is done for you. You will,
thumb planes. So, before you embark however, need to crosscut it and make
on a specific interest, make sure you various smaller cuts and some long
know what special tool requirements panel cuts. A hardpoint panel saw
there may be. is designed for cutting large or long
sections – choose a medium tooth
MEASURING & model. A tenon saw, with its rigid back
MARKING and smaller teeth, will crosscut and
The basis of all good woodworking make joints. It is better to choose a
is being able to accurately measure good traditional saw, not a hardpoint
and mark – see Peter Sefton’s article variant, as the latter will have too A squirrel tail plane is a tiny version of a
in issue 2. My own choice tends to be much ‘set’ that is, the splay of the teeth normal Jack plane

A nice set of chisels,
From left to right: but just four will do
No.4 smoother, No.5
Jack and a block plane
causing inaccurate cuts or ‘kerfs’. the centuries into the modern type
For shaping work, a coping saw is we use today. So long as the handles
useful unless you can afford a decent are comfortable – they can be wood
quality electric jigsaw. A hacksaw for or plastic, possibly with rubber infills
metal, plastics and awkward fine cuts – the crucial thing is how good the
is useful. blade steel is. Again, a reputable brand
is likely to be a better bet and not
PLANES necessarily too expensive either. A
Much has been written about planes set of four sizes will do most things. The new cross pattern diamond plates
and they come in different types. DIY from Trend, plus a honing guide and
stores nowadays stock depressingly DRILLING lapping fluid, will give you wickedly
badly made models. You need to buy You can work the old-fashioned way sharp cutting edges for accuracy
a reputable brand and sometimes the with a ‘coffee grinder’ hand drill, but and safety as less effort to cut is
internet is the way to find them. A let’s face it, most of us are already needed. Forget old-fashioned grimy
block plane and a No.4 smoother or using cordless drills. The advantage of pitted oilstones – they really are ‘last
No.5 Jack are the basic requirements power, less effort and the ability to take century’. For more information, visit
for smoothing and flatting wood. For a variety of drill bits and screwdriver www.trend-uk.com.
these and for chisels, you also need a bits make it a very attractive option.
sharpening system. Even the price has come down for
the ‘volts you buy’; however, even
CHISELS 10.8 or 12V baby drill drivers have
Chopping and paring wood is the plenty of ‘welly’. Team
province of the chisel. This very early it with a brad point
woodworking tool has developed over drill set intended for
wood and a set of
screwdriver bits.
SANDING
Don’t accept the bog
standard abrasives in the DIY
store. Professionals get to choose from
a vast range designed for a variety of Abrasives come in a
applications, not just wood. A small wide variety of types
orbital or delta shape orbital sander is
‘de rigeur’ for a lot of finishing work, and solvent-based dyes, varnishes,
Cheap as chips! plus a cork block or a homemade ‘bat’ lacquers and paints to choose from.
If you just want to do screwdriving or for hook-and-loop backed abrasives. We will go on to discuss this subject
drill small diameter holes, you could The advantage is that whether by in future issues.
do worse than this Aldi special – a machine or hand, you can change grit So, now we have a good quality
WorkZone screwdriver with lithium grades or clogged sheets quickly. We toolkit which, at a push, we can use
ion battery, work light and charger will look at abrasives in more detail in for DIY jobs but is nice enough to
for the princely sum of £9.99. It takes future issues. look after and keep for finer quality
standard hex bits and, at a push, would work. Best of all, this lot will fit in
accept small diameter hex mounted FINISHING either of our compact workstations
drill bits. Look out for offers in your Having made a piece of work, it needs and live in the flat or house quite
local store. a proper finish applied. There are happily – just remember to vacuum
plenty of both water-based, oil-based up after each job! ■

Hand woodworking
GREEN WOODWORKING
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEE STOFFER
Gypsy Flowers
on a shave horse
Lee Stoffer shows us green woodworking isn’t all
about axes and mallets – he’s got a gentler side too…
G
ood friend and fellow green Some folk make a device which uses a improve the carver’s ability to keep fine
woodworker Chris Allen, from tanged blade from an old spokeshave control over whatever tool is used for
Oneday Woodcraft – www. mounted upside down in a branch the job, so it’s great practice and the
onedaywoodcraft.co.uk – came to visit crook; this allows the user to pull bonus is that any that go wrong make
and show me how to make a bunch the stick through the blade to create excellent kindling for the fire! Having
of beautiful gypsy flowers. There are the petals. Chris has developed his perfected his technique, Chris favours
many ways to produce gypsy flowers own style of flower using a drawknife using seasoned willow (Salix spp.),
and huge variation in appearance and a shave horse to carve seasoned which he harvests a year before use.
can be achieved dependent on the willow sticks, which gives his flowers Two year growth seems to work well
technique and wood used. I started a unique appearance with lots of nice with the thumb width rods used for the
out just using a carving knife, usually curly petals. One thing I have found is flower heads and the side shoots saved
employing a chest lever grip to keep whatever method is used, the challenge for creating stems. In this article, we’ll
the work close and under control. of keeping the petals attached will have a look at how it’s done.
Hand woodworking
1 2 3
4 5 6
Romany gypsies
It is believed that Romanies or
Gypsies originated from Northern
India and migrated westwards over
1,000 years ago and were present in
England for half that time. The term
‘Romany’, however, refers to
gypsies who lived in Romania as
‘roma’ – i.e. roaming. Romania itself
gets its name from the pre-Romans
known as Dacians. Gypsies living on
the margins of our ‘conventional
society’ have found various ways to
eke out a living, including making
the artificial flower forms that are
described here.
7
1 The first step is create a fairly blunt

point at around 45° on the end
of the stick. Chris favours a full-size
around the stick and gently push
back the petals all at once.
rotate the rod after each cut. Complete
around three laps of the rod, taking
consistent cuts and finishing each as
drawknife by Ben Orford for this task.
The point can be made with anything
from 3-7 cuts with the aim being
3 Now, start to cut the curly petals.
Note that Chris is only using about
25mm of the blade to make the cut and
close to the last as you dare. Don’t
worry if you lose the odd petal – it’s
bound to happen!
for the growth centre, or pith, to be the hand nearest the cut is foremost.
centred in the point.
4 To make the petals curl, hold the 6 When the flower is nice and full –
but before it starts getting tall – start
2 Next, cut the bark to form the

first row of petals. Here Chris has
changed to a shorter lighter weight
blade at an angle to each facet
created by peeling the bark. This angle
is achieved by keeping one hand in
to shorten the petals and steepen the
cut towards the end; this helps to fill
out the centre of the finished flower.
drawknife by Svante Djarv. Using front of the other and using the end It may help to cut alternate facets at
the blade bevel up, aim for 9-12 cuts of the blade nearest the forward hand. this stage.
around the stick at about 120mm long. This way the petals curl away from the
Stop these cuts 25-30mm from the end
of the stick and rock the handles of the
next cut and keep out of harm’s way.
7 As you approach the pith, you
should feel some flex. Continue
knife down at the end of each cut to
bend the petals upright. The bark will
not curl so these petals will be straight.
5 Chris’ technique is to clamp the rod
then take a cut from the left, centre,
then right facet before rotating and
taking cuts gently until the flower head
is released or stop and carefully flex
the head in opposite directions until
To even this first row up, clench a fist re-clamping. You may find it easier to it comes away from the stick. ➤
WWC03 P34-37 GREEN WOODWORKING GYPSY FLOWERStfJRABSD.indd 35 11/06/2015 10:15

Hand woodworking
8 9
8 With the first flower completed,

keep practising until you have at
least five decent flowers to put stems
on and arrange into a bunch.
9 Each flower head needs a hole

opening up to accept the stem.
Chris uses an awl for this, but you
could use a small drill if you don’t
have one available.
11
10 The stems are the side shoots

that were trimmed from the
main stem when harvested.
11 Firstly, trim the tips back to get

rid of any buds so you have a
good 25mm of clean twig to insert
onto the hole created in step 9.
12 Carefully insert the trimmed

end of the stem into the hole
created by the awl; it helps to hold
10 12
the stem close to the hole to reduce
the chance of kinking the stem.
13 When you’ve got stems on at

least five flowers, arrange them
into a bunch ready for binding.
14 Use raffia for binding the stems

together. Start with a piece
measuring around 1m long.
Resources
Ben and Lois Orford –
www.benandloisorford.com – for
drawknives, bushcraft knives, leather
goods, etc.
Svante Djarv – www.djarv.se

– for knives, gouges, chisels, axes, etc.
Raffia – stocked by all good craft and

hobby stores
13 14

Hand woodworking
15 Grip the stems 75-100mm from

the heads and start the binding
by tying on the raffia with a half hitch,
leaving two roughly equal lengths to
continue the binding.
16 From here, the aim is to twist

and cross the raffia on opposite
sides of the stems, working down the
length as you go.
15 16
17 Chris had a really fluid
technique for this – hopefully
the photos here give you a reasonable
idea of ‘the look’ you’re aiming for.
18 When you’ve bound around

250-300mm of stem, tie off and
trim any excess raffia and the stems to
an even length.
19 To keep the binding tight,

take one of the ends you just
trimmed and insert into the middle
of the stems. Push in until a firm fit
is achieved and trim any excess.
20 Under instruction, I managed

a slightly sub-standard flower
that just about passed QC and made
it into the bunch!
It was great to explore a new way to

17 make something different and a bunch
of these beautiful flowers makes for a
great gift, so why not have a go? If you
don’t have the tools and timber to try
this style, see what you can come up
with using what you have available.
I’ve found that seasoned hazel (Corylus
spp.) and birch (Betula pendula) also
give good results.
To see Chris in action, check out

the video at: http://youtu.be/
18 19 TjdFxbZLnAM. ■
Lee Stoffer
Lee Stoffer has finally decided to turn his
passion for green woodworking into a
full-time occupation, making, teaching and
demonstrating. Lee can be found showing
off his enviable skills at many woodworking
shows and events. He is always happy to
chat about what is involved and he is keen
to encourage other people to try their
hand at one or more of these fascinating
traditional craft skills. You can visit his
Facebook page or his new website to learn
more about what he has been up to.
Web: www.covertcraft.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/covertcraft
20

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Hand woodworking
Compound-angle
JOINERY
In this extract from The New Best of Fine
Woodworking – Designing and Building
Chairs, Will Neptune discusses the
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE TAUNTON PRESS

benefits of using compound-angle
joinery in your chairmaking
F
or me, chairs are easily the most
satisfying projects to build, but
students often are puzzled by
the compound-angle joinery between
the legs and seat rails. I learned how to
draft, lay out and cut these joints when Both historically and for chairmaking
I was a furniture-making student years today, I think compound-angle tenons
ago and now I teach it at North Bennet represent the best possible technical
Street School. Once you answer two solution to this problem. Once you
critical questions: ‘Where do the layout have a system for laying out these
lines come from?’ and ‘how do I get joints, cutting them is not that difficult.
the layout lines on the wood?’ you’ll
see that cutting these joints isn’t all Draw simple elevation
that hard. What’s more, once you & plan views
understand how to cut compound- No matter what style chair you’re
angle joinery, cutting joinery with building, there are two angles to
a single angle becomes simple. consider: the cant of the leg, seen in
Recently, I built a set of Chippendale a front elevation, and the seat – frame
chairs. Most Chippendale chairs – and trapezoidal angle, seen in a plan –
a lot of other styles of chairs – have overhead – view. Start by doing a
rear legs that cant inward as they go partial drafting job, just enough to get
towards the floor but front legs that the information you need for layout.
are perpendicular to the floor line. First, draw the leg from a front view
Although this design lends a refined and show the mortise. The mortise
sense of upward motion to a chair, it in the rear leg should be as far to the
also introduces a fussy situation when outside of the leg as possible without Will Neptune
it comes to joining the rail to the back sacrificing the thickness of the mortise Will Neptune teaches furniture
leg. To allow for the cant of the legs walls. The mortises can be cut square making at North Bennet Street
and the trapezoidal shape of the seat, and slightly short in length, then School in Boston, Massachusetts
most of the time you’ll have to cut chiselled to the correct angle at the and has done for the past 15 years.
compound-angle tenons between top and bottom, making the mortise Described as ‘a star among stars’ by
the legs and seat rails. a parallelogram. Cutting a mortise in the woodworking community, he won
It is tempting to angle the mortises, the shape of a parallelogram not only the SAPFM Cartouche award in 2013,
in either the plan or elevation, to helps you register the rail, because it which recognised his achievements
simplify the tenon problem. In the first makes the rail’s top and bottom edges in furniture making. As a furniture
case, the mortise would angle in the parallel to the floor line, but it also maker, he finds ways to solve
plan view at the seat-frame trapezoidal makes the through-tenon look better woodworking problems regardless
angle. In the second case, the mortise from the back of the chair. of the size and scope – that’s part of
could be cut square to the back rail in Transferring information from the what keeps him interested in building
front elevation to correct for the cant elevation, draw the sections of the custom furniture. Will is also a master
angle. Both of these moves force you leg at the bottom of the rail, then you carver, and equally capable using both
to shorten the back rail tenon, which can draw the side rail and its angle. power and hand tools.
would weaken this critical joint. Notice that the side rail must be thick
WWC03 P40-43 COMPOUND ANGLE JOINERYtfJRABSD.indd 40 11/06/2015 10:16

Hand woodworking
enough to allow wood for the top inside shoulder of 1.5-3mm. As a last has been cut. The front end of the
outside corner as well as the bottom check, draw a detail of the top section rail is left alone for the leg joints,
inside corner, as seen in the elevation of the leg in plan view. I draw this as if so the rail starts plumb at the front
drawing here. I also like to have extra the leg mortise runs all the way up to and develops a wind that becomes
rail thickness to allow for a shoulder the top edge of the side rail. Extend the the cant angle of the rear leg.
at the bottom inside corner. line that represents the outside face of To show this, draw a dotted angled
First, draw the line representing the rail back through the leg to be sure line from the bottom outside corner
the outside face of the rail blank and that the tenon lies within the thickness of the rail out toward the rail’s front
its angle. Here I’m assuming that the of your rail. end. This transfers the information
outside face of the rail lands flush to This construction has the side rail from the elevation onto the plan
the top of the leg, but you could leave forming a simple angle, which leaves view. The plan view is simplified but
a shoulder if your design calls for it. wood sticking out from the canted leg contains all of the crucial points seen
Then draw a parallel line showing the on the outside. These surfaces will be in the elevation. These two drawings
bottom inside face of the rail, choosing reconciled by fairing a wind into the provide the information necessary for
a rail thickness that will allow for an outside face of the rail once the joinery laying out the joint.

Hand woodworking
Country Chippendale – in any style. Federal period — in the high style. Chippendale — one joint, many chairs.
Made of curly maple (Acer saccharum), Made by Steve Brown, this heart-back No maħer what kind of chair you’re
Mary Conlan’s Chippendale chair of Hepplewhite design has curved seat building, if your back legs are canted
simple form is built using the same rails and more complex shaped legs, and your seat is trapezoidal, you’ll need
leg-to-rail joinery as a more flashy, but the leg-to-rail joinery is the same to use compound-angle tenons to join
high-style chair as the Chippendale chair on the right them, as was done with this Chippendale
chair by Rich Heflin
Follow the drawings to lay out the joint Lay out and cut the mortise
To make the layout easier, I pretend shoulder lines, measuring from the
the mortise is extended up to the inside face of the rail. From the mark
rail’s top edge. Once the tongue of on the top edge, use a pair of dividers
the tenon has been cut using the set to the distance ‘Y’ to make another
method of your choice, it will be mark along the shoulder. The new
easy to shoulder down the tenon mark on the top edge and the first
to match the real mortise. mark on the bottom edge locate the
Extend the lines of the mortise inside cheek of the tenon. From these
opening up to where the edge of marks, transfer the size of the mortise
the rail will land. From the bottom to locate the outside tenon cheek.
inside corner of the mortise, square This may sound confusing, but all
up a line to the top edge of the rail. you’re doing is converting the cant
Where these three lines cross the top angle to a rise/run problem. The rail
rail edge will become the source of width is the run, and ‘Y’ is the rise.
the layout information. The reason for the initial marking
The important thing to realise is gauge line is that it’s more difficult to
that the information seen here is true measure from a corner using dividers.
only at one location along the rail: the The goal here is not just to get a tenon
plane of the shoulders – see the plan that fits – the rail should also land on
view shown previously. the post at the correct location and
On the inside face of the rail, square project at the trapezoidal angle.
a line across that shows the correct Once the base of the tenon has
shoulder location, measured in from been located, the plan view shows
the end. Here I’ve left extra length the next move. The tenon is simply
for later cleanup. Then, using a bevel square to the shoulder. Clamp the
gauge set to the seat angle, run the bevel gauge to the rail and square
shoulder lines across the top and all four tenon marks out to the end
bottom edges of the rail. These should of the rail. Once you’ve connected
then connect with another square line, these lines across the end grain and
up from the outside face of the rail, knife-marked the shoulders, layout
describing the plane of the shoulders. is complete, for now. Once the tenon
Your drawing should now show the cheeks and the side shoulder have
location of the tenon at this plane. been planed, the top shoulder can
Working from the elevation drawing, be marked out and cut. After fitting
set a marking gauge to ‘X’ and mark the tenon, mark the wood to be
this distance across the top and bottom faired directly from the leg.

Hand woodworking
Consider length and seat angle when laying out tenon shoulders
Make practice cuts in scrap
before cutting the real joint
One very direct way of cutting a
compound-angle joint is with a
handsaw. First, the cheeks would
be sawn in the ordinary way. The
only tricky part is remembering that
the shoulder cuts are at different
depths on each edge. Begin sawing
with the shallow edge facing you
and avoid cutting into the tenon.
A bandsaw is good for cutting the
cheeks, too. Setting the table for the
cant angle – remember to keep track
of lefts and rights – you can follow
the cheek lines on the top edge and
the blade will follow the cant angle
on the rail’s end.
The tablesaw can probably get you
closer and thus avoid a lot of cleanup
with hand tools, but the explanation
is a story all by itself.
Whatever method you use, lay out
with pencil first and confirm that you
have things correct. Often, the cant
and seat angles are close enough that
it’s easy to grab the wrong bevel gauge
during layout. The shoulder won’t
look bad, but the front legs will be way
off. It’s also possible to get the lefts
and rights mixed up and lay out the
correct angle in the wrong direction.
These mistakes make for a long day,
so when in doubt, mill a practice rail
and check both your layout and cutting
Carefully lay out the angled tenon on the stock method. Once the joinery for the back
end of the chair has been cut, the
simple angles on the front ends of
the rails will seem easy. ■
The New Best of Fine

Woodworking – Designing
and Building Chairs
ISBN: 9781561588572
Price: £12.99 (plus P&P)
Contact: GMC Publications
Tel: 01273 488 005
Web: www.thegmcgroup.com

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044_WWC_003.indd 44 11/06/2015 14:47

Hand woodworking
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SEFTON

Insight
Peter Sefton
Peter Sefton is a well-known
furniture maker who has 30 years’
Reuben’s cluster burr oak top with a brown experience. He is the ‘hands-on’
oak inlay and mitred lippings around principal of Peter Sefton Furniture
School in Worcestershire, where
Making mitres
he runs long and short courses in
fine woodworking, teaching and
mentoring students. He also owns
Wood Workers Workshop, and he
is a Liveryman of the Worshipful
Company of Furniture Makers.
Web: www.peterseftonfurniture
Peter Sefton shows us how there is school.com
more than one way to shoot a mitre joint
A
t first glance, the mitre is one of with one biscuit in the mitre to add
the easiest joints to make but a little strength, but mainly to resist
getting it right and well fitting the mitres twisting while gluing up.
can be a little trickier than expected. These mitres were cut on the sliding
Two of my students have just been carriage of my tablesaw and then shot
working on some constructional mitres in on a flat shooting board with a very
that can make or break their projects. sharp No.7 plane, ground and honed
with a flat blade. Getting the mitres
English oak sideboard clean and crisp on all four corners
Reuben is making a sideboard in while maintaining the correct internal
English oak (Quercus robur) with a lengths is the hardest part to achieve.
cluster burr oak top surrounded by a We managed to get the mitres spot
70 × 30mm mitred oak lipping with on, but a little short. This was soon
a brown oak inlay between. These remedied by planing with the No.7
lippings have been located with to clean up the inside face of the
Using a pair of sash cramps to pull the
biscuit joints to the MDF substrate and lippings to lengthen them a little
mitres together
bit. This top was glued up with sash
cramps and Cascamite UF glue. This traditional shooting board for box-style
gives us a longer open time than would mitres rather than Reuben’s picture
have been achieved if using a general frame variety. Sam’s mitres are a little
PVA adhesive. easier as they do not have to fit around
a panel, but being made in maple
Birdseye maple console table leaves no room for error as the clean
Then on to Sam’s project, which is light timber is very unforgiving of poor
a birdseye maple (Acer saccharum) craftsmanship – this wasn’t a worry for
console table. The mitres here are Sam, as they were very clean indeed.
produced in the opposite orientation When gluing up mitred box-style
and this changes both the tablesaw frames, we use ratchet cramps to apply
Using a WoodRiver No.7 plane on a 45° setup and type of shooting board. For equal pressure to the mitres and then
shooting board this, we used a donkey’s ear, which is a glue the panels in as a second stage. ■

Community
READER GROUP TEST
PHOTOGRAPH BT NIGEL NEILL

IRWIN Marples circular saw blades
Welcome to our Reader Group Test by members
of our very own Woodworker’s Institute forum
IRWIN Marples blades are tension laser cut, which results in greater
accuracy on angles and geometries. This avoids warping or stressing the
metal and creating a flatter, truer running blade, which delivers straighter,
cleaner cuts. The blades feature a special Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
coating, which reduces friction and works effectively with wet or resinous
timbers, or when cutting rough timber, softwood, chipboard or MDF. It also
improves wear resistance so blades last longer and blades are less likely to
jam. Aluminium flakes in the coating help to keep the blade cooler and the
brazed teeth are made of a tougher carbide grain size, which allows them to
stay sharper for longer. The Marples blade range comprises of 28 products from
a rake angle of -5-15°, with Alternative Top Bevel (ATB) or Triple Chip grind (TCG)
toothing, angle of 10-25°, a tooth count of 24 to 100, diameters of 216-305mm and
kerf thicknesses of 2.5-3.2mm, depending on your machine requirements.
DETAILS:
Examples of the wide Prices: 60-tooth: £76.28; 80-tooth: £102.51; 96-tooth: £134.42 (prices inc VAT)
range of IRWIN Marples
Contact: IRWIN Tel: 01543 447 001
saw blades available
Web: www.irwin.co.uk
TESTERS
Rory Hatto, Glenn Hunt, Geoffrey cut the laminate cleanly
Laycock, Robert Scotter, with no surface chipping. It
John Doonan & Nigel Neill also easily cut 108 pressure
treated boards to make
six new fence panels.
W
e asked the testers a range
of questions, some of which Glenn Hunt: I was very
were graded, but others pleased with the results
needed more articulating rather than produced on different wood d
just scoring. We asked what was their materials. Results with the
experience using the product and did 60-tooth blade were very
they have any problems. good; results from
the 80-tooth variant were
Rory Hatto commented: My superb.
experience of using this blade was
excellent. I found the blade to be well Geoffrey Laycock: They both th
machined, which made the fitting really performed brilliantly! I usedd the
h 96
96-
easy compared to some other blades and 60-teeth blades on old teak, MDF,
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RORY HATTER
I have used in the past. It cut cleanly sapele, birch plywood and red oak. For
and efficiently through all the materials maximum capacity cuts, I would select
I’ve used it on this week: 4×2in PSE, the 60-tooth blade but the 96-tooth
architrave and 180mm skirting board. blade would also be suitable at a
Cutting through the 4×2in PSE was slightly slower cutting rate.
easy and required minimal pressure to
carry out the cut with minimal break- Robert Scotter: Both 60- and 96-tooth
out. I also laid 60sqm of 12mm-thick blades performed really well with
laminate flooring and cut the boards acceptable tear-out, which was very Rory Haħer was extremely pleased with
to length. This IRWIN Marples blade minimal. I was really surprised and the cut finish on his skirধng boards
WWC03 P46-47 GROUP REVIEW 2.indd 46 17/06/2015 09:37

PHOTOGRAPH BT NIGEL NEILL
AN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN DOON
Nigel Neill was very enthusiasধc about
the quality of the results he got
impressed with the ease and quality John Doonan ran each blade through some
of cut; they seemed to cut fast and 45 × 95mm redwood, 75 × 75mm imbuya
efficiently, leaving smooth cut surfaces and a 75 × 275mm lump of Scoষsh elm, and
without burning. commented; “In each case, the cut followed
the line precisely”
John Doonan: Lovely to use. The
carbide tips are noticeably larger
than my own blades, which are a Did you find the instrucধons on the packaging easy to follow?
reputable make. Even allowing for NO
the blades being new, the cutting YES
was effortless and the quality of the
10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
finish on the end grain was superb.
How would you rate the product performance?
Nigel Neill: I found that both the 80-
and 60-tooth blades cut effortlessly
throughout daily working tasks that 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
I encountered, which included hard
and softwoods and laminate boards. How would you rate the product ease of use?
No burr or chipping was left, which
was aided by the kerf of the blades –
10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
an acceptable 2.5mm. Continuous
cutting revealed that the sharpness Would you recommend it to other people?
remains after a considerable duration
YES
of time and is superior to other
branded blades I have used. I also 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
found that the distinctive blue non-
stick coating didn’t form a residue How would you rate the product overall?
throughout the testing, which I
initially thought it would. 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
Editor’s comment The negative score given by the testers regarding

I visited the Italian factory where these blades
are manufactured, I was frankly amazed that
the lack of fitting information is understandable,
but since machines vary it is the duty of the Total
such a high tech, high output company gave so individual machine manufacturers to provide
score
93%
much care and intervention in the production fitting information. IRWIN’s own n
process. It is amazing that a relatively small packaging gives comprehensive
workforce can produce such high-quality blades. information about the blades,
My own experience is that these blades cut really including machine type, number
well even when pushed to the limit. Well worth of teeth, bore size and diameter..
the premium price alluded to by several of our Selecting the correct blade is
testers. visually very easy. ■
If you would like to be part of our panel of product testers, please go to our
website – www.woodworkersinsitute.com – and SIGN UP NOW!
WWC03 P46-47 GROUP REVIEW 2.indd 47 17/06/2015 09:37

Community
SPONSORED BY
Hints, Tips
& Jigs
Record Power, suppliers of high quality woodworking
machinery and accessories, are pleased to be
sponsoring the hints, ধps and jigs secধon in
collaboraধon with GMC publicaধons. Each issue’s
‘Star Tip’ will receive a Record Power voucher to the
Your chance to pass on all your value of £75 and all other published ধps will receive a
£35 voucher. These vouchers can be redeemed at any
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readers and maybe even win a prize! stockist at www.recordpower.co.uk/dealers or call
Record Power on 01246 571 020.
★
OPTIONAL SUPPORT
RT
T
I was struggling to figure
STAR
out where to position my
compound mitre saw – that
was the first problem as my
shed isn’t all that big – and
TIP
second, how to support
long lengths with a separate
roller stand, which clashes with h the
h
workbench. The answer was simple,
really: I had a vice, which I decided
to position to the right of the saw but
not too far away. I then made an MDF
platform glued and screwed to the top
end of a 50 × 50mm post and screwed
a crosspiece to it, so when I need
outfeed support, it just sits in the
vice at the correct height.
The other thing was to bolt a
mechanic’s vice to a 75 × 50mm
batten, so I swap the work support for
it if I’m doing metalwork, then I’ve still
got the use of the woodworking vice.
Bill Richardson
Above: The mechanic’s vice bolted to

the baħen
Right: The MDF plaĤorm for the compound
mitre saw
WWC03 P48-49 HINTS TIPS & JIGStfJRABSD.indd 48 17/06/2015 09:38

Community
Neil’s sec ons of pine glued together, which will make an

ideal workbench
Benchwork
I wanted a really hefty top for my workbench. I didn’t
fancy the cost and machining problems of a big
hardwood top with breadboard ends, etc. so instead,
I thought that if I got some carefully chosen pine
(Pinus spp.) and the annual rings opposing, then I
could dowel or biscuit a set of prepared pine 75 ×
50mm sections together with PVA and it should be
completely stable. I’ve made it in two sections: this is
the second; the other I’ve drilled for dog holes. Once
Miles’ homemade hood for his both sections are glued and clamped together, I reckon
disc sander – clever stuff! it will be stable and just to make sure, it will be fixed to
a pine underframe – with screw slotting so it slides on
Not so dusty shrinkage. After sawing the ends square, I might use a
Disc sanders are fantastic for all kinds of shaping operations router to trim the ends clean.
to impart a decent finish, but I think they chuck out too Neil Duffy
much dangerous dust. I made a hood to go around mine
without impinging on the working area. It can just be pulled
back if it does get in the way. I added a smaller extraction
hose, which is held in a lid in the main hose with duct A great space-saving solu on
for making shelf stud holes
tape. I still have to close the other blastgates to get the best
suction, but it works.
Miles Malin
Easily fixed
Sometimes it’s easy to overcomplicate solutions. I don’t
find I use things like jigs very often, but I did recently
discover one for making shelf stud holes: I just screw it to
the wall or better still, into the ceiling where it’s right out
of the way. Simple!
Joe (John) Arbuthnot
Woodworkers Ins tute

Want more? More of your favourite subject – woodworking?
Then visit: www.woodworkersinstitute.com
It’s a regularly updated, user-friendly website packed with projects,
techniques, features, blogs and a comprehensive forum where you
can chat, ask questions and be part of a much larger woodworking
community. And best of all, it’s FREE!
By submitting your tips, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the
future. In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere
WWC03 P48-49 HINTS TIPS & JIGStfJRABSD.indd 49 11/06/2015 10:29

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050_WWC_003.indd 50 11/06/2015 14:50

PHOTOGRAPHS BY WALTER HALL Hand woodworking
Re-handling a Stanley
combination plane
Some of the best tools of yesteryear came Things you will need:
with unlovely plastic handles. Walter Hall •R osewood – or any other suitable
wood blank
gets a grip on the problem and found it was • Bandsaw
• Forstner bit
fairly plane sailing! • Pillar drill
• Clamps
A
longside woodworking, one of my favourite activities is restoring old tools, • Steel protractor
bringing them back to usable condition and improving their performance. • Bevel edged chisel
Knowing this, my good friend and fellow contributor to this magazine Neil • Utility knives
Lawton, sourced a late model Stanley 13-050 combination plane for me at a very • Rasps
reasonable price. In excellent condition and still in company with the majority • Microplanes
of its original cutters, the only downside was the rather nasty plastic handle. If it • Abrasives
was meant to resemble wood, then I have never seen wood like it – in fact, the • Drechseln und Mehr Natur-Öl –
last time I saw anything this colour was an Austin Allegro in the 1970s. The only oil finish
answer was to make a proper handle from wood. ➤

Hand woodworking
2 3
1 Fortunately, my visit to Neil’s

workshop also resulted in the
acquisition of a fine piece of rosewood
(Dalbergia latifolia), which seemed
just right for the purpose, so the first
task was to mark out the rough shape
using the old handle as a template.
2 The initial roughing out was done

on the bandsaw. The machine
was fitted with a 16mm blade, which
handled the broader curves with ease.
3 Rather than change to a narrower

blade for the tighter curves, it was
much quicker to fit a suitably sized
4 5
Forstner bit in the pillar drill and drill

out the waste. Note that the blank is
safely clamped to the drill table.
4 A key factor in ensuring a well-

fitting handle was to check that
the hole for the mounting stud was
accurately aligned in the body of the
handle. In order to achieve this, I
measured the angle from the original
using a long drill bit through the bore
and a steel protractor.
5 The measured angle was then

transferred to the rosewood blank
in order to facilitate the alignment for
drilling.
6 The blank was mounted in the drill

press vice and carefully aligned
to the vertical, with the aid of a small
engineer’s square. 6
WWC03 p51-54 PLANE HANDLEtfJRABSD.indd 52 11/06/2015 10:30

Hand woodworking
8 9
7 The recess for the retaining knob

was drilled first using a Forstner
bit. A long lip and spur bit was then
used to drill the rest of the way
through the blank and finally, the
blank was reversed in the vice and
a second Forstner bit used to drill
a correctly sized recess for the
connection to the casting.
8 I am not a woodcarver and as a

result, possess no carving tools,
so the base was carefully cut to shape
to fit the casting using a combination
of bevel-edged chisels and craft and
10 11
utility knives.
9 A gradual process of cutting away

and trying against the casting was
followed until a good fit was achieved.
10 Once properly fitted, a pilot

hole was drilled and the fixing
screw in the base fitted.
11 With the main fixing stud

installed, it was obvious that
a great deal of work remained to be
done. The handle body was far from
square to the casting, except where the
base had been fitted and the square
edges needed to be rounded to a
proper shape.
12 In profile, however, it was after

some initial shaping, beginning
to look like a handle that might have
been designed to fit this plane. ➤ 12

Hand woodworking
13 14
13 Again, in the absence of carving

tools, the shaping was done
with a rasp and Micro-planes. Not a
Drechseln und Mehr –
Natural Oil Finish
quick process, but it was very satisfying
to see the shape gradually developing
as I worked. I can see why carving is
such an enjoyable hobby. If only I had
the artistic skill to visualise anything
more exciting than a tool handle.
14 As the shape developed, I paid

more attention to fitting the
handle to my own grip rather than
15
characteristics of the wood and plastic.
slavishly following the design of the Note also the alignment of the grain to
original, regularly testing the feel of maximise the strength of the handle.
the handle for comfort.
15 Several hours later, I had a

handle that differed only slightly
16 A lot of hand sanding later and
the finished handle is almost
ready to install. It looks a lot better
This product can be used on
woodturnings, natural wood
from the original, but was much more than the original and it is certainly furniture, worktops and floors. The
comfortable due to the bespoke grip. much more pleasant to hold and use. oil comprises natural ingredients –
The base was also slightly thicker A few coats of Drechseln und Mehr including nut oils – and is free from
than the original due to the different Natur-Öl and the job was complete. ■ harmful volatile solvents. It meets
the DIN EN71 Part 3 standard for toy
safety, too. The resulting finish after
two or three coats, 24 hours apart is a
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discolour the wood.
Price: From £15.20

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Walter Hall
Walter Hall is a woodturner who has
specialised in making pens and pencils
for more than 20 years. Based on the
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via his website.
Web: www.walterspens.co.uk
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055_WWC_003.indd 55 17/06/2015 10:08

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE BIGGS
Power woodworking
Curtain pelmets
Louise Biggs makes a
ON SITE ASSESSMENT
set of wooden pelmets
Straight pelmet • Corner of wall 380mm to the right
to fit a bay window • Window frame was recessed within of the lintel was not square
the wall • Window frame was ধght up to the
• Solid wall above for fixing the pelmet edge of the ceiling
• Window recess was straight and • Plasterboard ceiling curved round the
I
received a call from some long-
standing customers, asking if level bay and curved up to the top corner
I would be able to make two • No wooden header above the window
wooden curtain pelmets, one straight Shaped pelmet frame for fixing to
and one shaped, to complement • Four-secধon bay window • Best possible fixing was to form
their fitted bedroom and replace • Concrete lintel ran across the bay shaped metal brackets to screw to the
the existing fabric pelmets to the from the top right corner of the window frame with self-tapping screws
following criteria: window • Window frame was level
• The curtains were to hang 75mm Top right-hand window, with the Overview of the bay window showing
off the glass of the windows concrete lintel and exisধng curtain the curved ceiling and concrete lintel
• The end front panels on each pelmet and pelmet rails
had to be removable
• The shaped pelmet was to continue
around the lintel to the end of the
wall
• The straight pelmet was to extend
past the right-hand side to match
the existing extension, between the
window frame and wardrobe, on the
left-hand side.
WWC03 P56-60 PELMETS TECHtfABJRSD.indd 56 11/06/2015 10:31

Power woodworking
MEASURING & TEMPLATES What you will need:

For the templates
• Cardboard
• Straightedges
• Knife
• Rule and pencils
• Squares
• Angle finder
• Sliding bevel
For the making
• Panel and/or tablesaw
• Mitre fence for tablesaw
The lintel secধon showing the return The angle of the ceiling to the window • Straightedge
• Sliding bevels – more than one
wall and the posiধon of the lintel frame and layout of the pelmet
if possible
• Bandsaw, jigsaw or coping saw
Armed with card and tools a site visit and where the window met the wall
• Chisels – various widths
was made to make a template of the at the left-hand end. The angle • Hand saw – preferably with no back
bay window. At over 2,440mm long it between the window frames and – or flush-cut saw
had to be done in stages and marked ceiling was also measured in order • Router and router table
accurately to be put together in the to position the front fascia. • Various router cutters
workshop. Each section was marked The straight window was measured • Sash cramps
off with the joints in the window trims and the extension of the existing • ‘F’ and ‘G’ cramps
being the reference points. rails past the window frame to the • Moulding plane
The template for the area around the wardrobe on the left was mirrored on • Iron for iron-on edging
lintel was shaped to the wall and frame the right. When everything had been • Tenon saw, if cutting finger joints
and the position of the lintel marked. checked several times the template for by hand
The necessary angles were taken the shaped pelmet was taken back to • Drill and various bits to suit fixings
around the lintel, where the the workshop where it was glued and • Mitre saw – hand or powered
wall turned at the right-hand end taped together. • Screwdrivers
• PPE – eye and dust protection
197
136 SECTIONS
FRONT ELEVATION
110 110
11 13
562 59
615 540
SECTION 3 SECT
N2 ION 4 118 13
SECTIO 309 32
197
32
220 142 138 13 97 125
622
IO N1
CT
SE PLAN SHOWING LOOSE TONGUE JOINTS 153
SECTION A - A SECTION B - B
Timber moulding Position of lintel
160 160
Line of bedroom wall B C
59
A B C D 164 13
147 13 197
PLAN SHOWING CURTAIN TRACK 79
142
13 13
(Timber moulding not shown for clarity)
A D
57
32 33 33 32
COLOUR DENOTES SOLID TIMBER COLOUR DENOTES VENEERED MDF
SECTION D - D SECTION C - C
213 75 75
13 495 1128 495 13 48

2144
FRONT ELEVATION
E F 62 13 62 13 213
165
PLAN E F
SECTION F - F SECTION E - E

Power woodworking
MAIN CONSTRUCTION
The pelmets were formed by a series
of 13mm sapele (Entandrophragma
cylindricum) veneered MDF sections
joined together with loose tongues.
For the straight pelmet, the long top
section was flush with the top of the
front, a full width piece in the centre
was joined between two narrow
sections at either end, which housed
the loose panels beneath them. The
two end pieces were in turn joined
to the top and front sections.
The shaped pelmet was constructed The top and front secধons of the straight The secধons of the shaped pelmet from
in three parts. From left to right, pelmet behind
window sections 1 and 2 were made
as one, section 4 and the lintel section tongues that allowed it to slide into sections above the loose panels had a
were made together and section 3 position last. To support the corresponding chamfer and once the
slid into place last due to the angles joint, a form of dovetail key was cut into mouldings were in place the chamfered
between the wall, window frame and the back of the fascia at the top, both top edges tucked up behind the
lintel. The top section was 59mm sides and at the bottom on the left-hand moulding to be held flush. The bottoms
down from the top of the front to side. These were glued and screwed of the panels were held in place with
allow for the curve of the ceiling and into sections 2 and 4 and screwed into metal clips, some of which had to be
the fi xing of the pelmet on the brackets, section 3 behind the moulding at the mounted onto small blocks to obtain
as shown in the photo taken from the top and from behind at the bottom left. the correct angles for removing the
back of the pelmet. The removable panels had a panels. Iron-on edging was used on all
Section 3 was held in place with loose 45° chamfer on the top edge. The exposed edges.
The lintel secধon – upside down and from the back – showing Secধon 3 – centre, secধon 4 to right and secধon 2 to leđ,
the clips and blocks to hold the loose panels showing the dovetail keys to join the secধons
THE MOULDING
The moulding had to be made in two
slightly different ways. For the straight
pelmet and the section to the right of
the lintel on the shaped pelmet, the
complete moulding was made and
would be fi xed from behind. For the
four sections to the left of the lintel,
it was made in two sections so that the
middle part acted as a cover piece for
the fi xings. The timber was planed to
the correct dimensions and the main
areas of waste were removed using The template with the complete Checking the shape against the template
a straight cutter in the router on a moulding on the right and the moulding
router table. and cover piece on the leđ

Power woodworking
Four secধons of moulding awaiধng their cover piece, leđ, and The cover piece being shaped with a support piece behind
the complete secধon, right
The completed mouldings The moulding fiħed around the secধon Cuষng the middle secধon and changing
to the right of the lintel the angle of the plane to flaħen the
A wooden moulding plane close to quadrant
the right shape was used to form the
torus shape at the top and the two a curve flowed into a flat. At all stages Section 2 of the shaped pelmet was
quadrants on the middle and bottom the shape was checked frequently cut to the correct angles and length
parts of the moulding, the bottom against the template. and clamped in position, then three
quadrant was formed first keeping Once the main shaping was correct fi xing positions were marked out and
the curve even on both the face and the top edge of the torus shape was drilled through to take an M5 machine
edge of the moulding. The middle cut, keeping a crisp transition between screw and a ‘T’ nut. Each section was
section was then cut on the complete the curve and the top edge. All the cut and fitted to the previous one until
moulding. By changing the angle of lengths of moulding were prepared to the four sections were in place with
the plane, it cut the slightly flattened this stage. The cover piece was shaped section 3 being the last one fitted.
quadrant shape required on the in the same way but to hold it straight, The cover pieces were cut and fitted
middle piece. a stout support piece of timber was in the same way to be pinned on after
The torus shape was then cut on the clamped in the vice behind it. Once the pelmets were fitted in position.
bottom edge in the same way. Where the mouldings were shaped they were The complete mouldings fitted to
two shapes came together care was sanded through the abrasive grits up the straight pelmet and the section
taken so that the points of the blade to 240. to the right of the lintel were mitred,
did not gouge a line where a crisp The moulding on section 3 needed clamped in position and fi xed by wood
square corner was required or where square ends in order to fit in place. screws from behind the MDF fascia. ➤
Moulding clamped in posiধon on secধon 2 and being drilled for The four secধons fiħed with the machine screws visible
the fixings

Power woodworking
REMOVABLE CURTAIN TRACK
The curtain track, clamped in posiধon The first half of the finger joint being cut The two secধons of curtain track glued
with the angles cut and pegged
The straight pelmet curtain rail could Each section was cut to allow it to run the other half. If unsure in any way of
be fi xed to the wall. On the shaped into the next section on a straight line, cutting the joints on the router, either
pelmet a removable curtain track this would form the angled finger joint. form a jig to support the sections or
was required to enable the curtain They were clamped in place until all cut the joint by hand.
suppliers to fit their curtain rail to the sections had been cut and angled. The sections were then glued and
it. Timber was prepared to size and Using a router set in a table, the first clamped together and the dowel
once the position of the track was half of the joint was routed out using pegs drilled and glued for additional
established and marked the sections the angled surface as the leading edge. support. They were fitted with M5
were cut to length. For strength, a Once these halves of the joints had machine screws and ‘T’ nuts in the
form of finger joint was used. been cut, the router was reset to cut same way as the moulding.
FITTING IN POSITION
With the pelmets away being spray were drilled and countersunk prior to shaped pelmet was fitted with sections
finished, the metal brackets were bending. To get the brackets looking 1 and 2 and the lintel section was
made to the template taken earlier. identical, the scribe lines were placed fitted with section 4. Once in place,
The straight pelmet had right-angled in the vice in exactly the same position section 3 was slid into position and
brackets, the shaped pelmet needed before being hammered over to the fi xed. The pelmet was screwed to
brackets formed to the shape of the correct angle. the brackets and to the plasterboard
window frame. Using lengths of flat Once on site the brackets for the ceiling before the moulding and cover
steel, they were first cut to length and straight pelmet were fitted to the wall pieces were fitted. ■
then scribed at each point where a and the pelmet was placed on the
bend was required. The screw holes brackets and screwed together. The
Louise Biggs
Having completed her City and Guilds,
Louise trained for a further four years
at the London College of Furniture.
She joined a London firm working for
the top antique dealers and interior
designers in London, before starting
her own business designing and making
bespoke furniture and restoring
furniture.
The shaped pelmet fixed in posiধon and finished Web: www.anthemion-furniture.co.uk
Inset: The brackets for the fixing of the shaped pelmet

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061_WWC_003.indd 61 11/06/2015 14:51

Power woodworking
PLANS 4YOU
Modular seating
Simon Rodway shows you to how

to make your very own set of modular CUTTING LIST
seating – perfect for those summer days Seat module
Legs 4 @ 323 × 38 × 25mm
Rails 4 @ 367 × 25 × 20mm
Rails 4 @ 360 × 25 × 20mm
D
esigning and building the seating is very simple and is based
things on a module system around two pairs of 25 × 38mm legs, Seat/shelf 2 @ 430 × 410 × 12mm
always seems to have the with the front legs set at right angles Side boards 6 @ 439 × 100 × 20mm
same advantages and disadvantages. to the back. This immediately starts to Back boards 3 @ 450 × 100 × 20mm
Basically, it will all fit together nicely, break down the grid system, but the
making planning and construction main reason I’ve done this is that all Table
much simpler, but the repetition of the seating is open at the front with a Legs 4 @ 323 × 38 × 25mm
elements can make the project look bottom shelf for storage, and turning Rails 2 @ 400 × 25 × 20mm
a bit machine made or even lifeless. the front legs therefore made much Rails 2 @ 374 × 25 × 20mm
The best way to avoid this is firstly to more sense. The legs are actually set Rails 2 @ 400 × 38 × 25mm
disguise the basic module by offsetting out on a 430 × 410mm rectangle, since Rails 2 @ 374 × 38 × 25mm
the structure somehow, and then I used 20mm-thick boards, wrapping Top/shelf 2 @ 450 × 450 × 12mm
add variations on the unit so that around them on three sides to make
the overall effect is a combination up the overall 450 × 450mm. If you
of a grid pulling everything together, cut the 12mm-thick plywood bottom at the corners, so use thinnish ones
with enough individuality in the shelf to size first, you could use this and offset them slightly up or down to
components to make it interesting. to set out the legs, which are small allow for this. Add a bit of waterproof
I’ll leave you to be the judge as to bottom rails – remember to cut the seat glue to further strengthen the joint.
whether I succeeded with my modular to match at the same time. The joints
seating, which is this month’s project. are basically just screws into the end Boħom shelf
grain of the rails and will be hidden Now you need to accurately notch out
The basic module in all cases, except at the front. So if the corners of the bottom shelf, not
The basic module size is a 450 × you don’t want screw heads showing forgetting that the back and front legs
450mm unit, which is doubled to a here, you could improvise with pocket are facing at 90° to each other and
900mm length for the longer bench screws into the back of the front legs then slide over the legs and fix this to
and sofa-type seating. The structure of from inside. The screws will overlap the rails. Use smaller screws and glue,
WWC03 P62-64 PLANS FOR YOUtfABSDJR.indd 62 11/06/2015 10:35

Power woodworking
38
38
25
25
323
410
430
367
430
20
50 360
410
Use 3 dowels on each joint for greater

accuracy and stability
as pinning to such small section rails

could damage the joints at this stage.
Also, pre-drilling the plywood first will
make life a bit easier. The structure
should start to stiffen up a bit at this
point, then repeat the exercise at the
top of the legs, finishing off with the
top or seat, which sits above the ends
of the legs, so no need for notching the
corners this time.
Side & back boards

Now you need to cut the side and
back boards to length and start fixing
Long screws into the side
them. I would align each trio of boards planks are unavoidadle if
with three dowels, which will help to you are adding a back Alternative screw fixing for more
strengthen the joint and keep it flush or less visible screw heads
over the years. It’s probably better
to glue these together as a complete
panel of three first, leaving the ends of thought and care and the screws are side panels means all the joints are
the individual boards slightly long, to good quality. I would use two pairs more visible, however, and in this
allow for any slight variation in dowel of screws per board to achieve a good case, I would go for pocket screw
location, and then just trim the ends fixing and if you are including the sofa fixings all round, as, from the outside,
of the panels. This also allows you to or chair variant. To achieve a consistent the pairs of offset screws will look a
use cramps to keep the joints nice and look, fix through the backs into the bit crude. I increased the height of the
tight. I have positioned the panels so ends of the side planks on the seats top rail to 38mm to add strength and
that there is a small upstand on three as well. If you are making the longer stability. Fixing the top – and shelf –
sides, which helps to locate cushions. variant of the seat, simply add 450mm is a bit of an issue, as these surfaces
You can screw these from the inside to the overall length of the long are much more visible, so gluing
if you wish, but fixing will be much components, keeping the ends and and the addition of screw blocks
easier from the sides and back, and if other details the same. underneath was my preferred solution.
you choose to make the variation with If you can think of a better one, then
the back, you will have no option but Table please use it. The edges of the table
to show screw heads along the back The table is a bit more straightforward, are pretty unforgiving, as there is no
joints. Personally, I don’t think this as it is laid out on the 450 × 450mm overhang to disguise any variation
is a problem on this sort of robust module from the outset. Additionally between the frame and the shelf and
outdoor-type furniture, as long as the legs are orientated in a single top, so a bit of trimming at the end is
the screw spacing is done with some direction. The fact that there are no almost inevitable. ➤

Power woodworking
450 450
12mm ply
450
12
20
335
38
100
430
374 12mm ply
400
38
25 900
Other variaধons 500
The final variation is the chair or sofa.

Basically, the only difference here is
the addition of a double layer of boards
on the top of the back and sides, with
the top board on the sides shaped to
form an armrest. Again, I would make 860
the sides and back as complete panels,
leaving the shaping of the top board
on the sides until last. I have suggested
a shape for this, but you will probably
want to design your own. You do need
to remember the depth of your dowels base unit or stool. The sofa uses the
at the front, particularly if you go for a same materials as the seat and chair,
look similar to the one I have shown, but just add 450mm to the length of
as the last thing you want is to expose the long components in the same way
the end of one when you are cutting as you would for the longer seat.
out the profile with a jigsaw. My advice How you finish everything off is up
is to leave a clearance of about 10mm. to you. If this is meant for outside use,
As I said earlier, the back will be fixed a good waterproof and preserving
through into the ends of the side stain might be an idea, but something
boards or panel all the way up, using that is fabric friendly. I wouldn’t make
a pair of long screws to each board this an all-weather set for preference,
end. This, together with a good glue though, as eventually the end grain Simon Rodway
joint, will be ample as the back is of the plywood in particular will start Simon Rodway also runs LineMine,
fairly low, with only one board fully to delaminate. This won’t happen a website with articles and online
exposed. I haven’t shown anything in overnight, particularly if you use courses on drawing software. A new
the way of backrests or cushions but exterior grade plywood, but the course, ‘SketchUp for Woodworkers’,
you’ll need these to soften the edges British weather is pretty unforgiving is starting this month. For details and
and the 90° angle of the back. on timber furniture, so an indoor/ to get discount coupons, see website
I have shown the dimensions for outdoor space, such as a conservatory details below.
the sofa, and the chair is obviously the or veranda is probably the best Email: [email protected]
same height, but otherwise identical location. Now let’s hope for some Web: www.linemine.com/courses
in construction and dimensions to the great summer weather! ■

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MODEL MOTOR EXC.VAT INC.VAT ‡ was
CJS380
CPF13 400W/230V £44.99 £53.99 £63.59
£
349EXC.VAT
.98 machines
from 1 phase
KA900E*‡ 350W/230V £49.98 £59.98 inc.VAT £
419INC.VAT
.98
NEW
REMOVABLE supply
DUST TRAY • Variable
LIGHTWEIGHT FROM ONLY output power
£ .99
ALUMINIUM 6EX.VAT BANDSAWS ONLY to match HP
£ .39 of motor to
JIGSAWS QUICK RELEASE 8INC.VAT Top Quality Bandsaws - ideal for professional workshop use. £
449EXC.VAT
.00
be run
Strong steel body with solid cast iron table featuring induction motors
FROM ONLY ALUMINIUM SASH CRAMPS • Table tilts 45° • Adjustable blade guide • Supplied with 4 TPI wood £
538INC.VAT
.80 ROTARY
£
12EXC.VAT
.99
cutting blade, rip fence, mitre guide and push stick PHASE
CONVERTERS
*DIY #Professional £
15INC.VAT
.59 PC60
ALSO AVAILABLE
FROM ONLY
MODEL POWER DEPTH
(W) OF CUT EX INC
CORDLESS
CONVERT 230V £
229.00
EX.VAT
(WOOD/STEEL) VAT VAT MODEL SIZE EX. VAT INC. VAT 1PH TO 400V 3PH £
274.80
INC.VAT
Clarke CJS380* 420W 55/6mm £12.99 £15.59 CHT374 600mm £6.99 £8.39 DRILL/ PSR18
Clarke CON750# 750W 80/10mm £24.99 £29.99 CHT375 900mm £7.99 £9.59 DRIVERS 18V PRO MODEL MAX. FUSE EX VAT INC VAT
FROM ONLY MOTOR HP
B & D KS600* 450W 60/5mm £29.98 £35.98 CHT376 1200mm £9.98 £11.98 £
34EXC.VAT
.99 CORDLESS PC20 2HP 10amps £229.00 £274.80
Bosch PST700* 500W 70/4mm £49.98 £59.98 DRILL/
£ PC40 3.5HP 20amps £269.00 £322.80
BELT 41INC.VAT
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DRIVERS PC60 5.5HP 32amps £319.00 £382.80
POWER SANDERS 10mm chuck size
PLANERS HUGE CHOICE 2 Speed,
• Ideal for surface removal,
IN-STORE & ONLINE Variable control - SHEET SANDERS
sanding and finishing 0-350/0-1250rpm
MODEL VOLTS BATTS EXC. VAT INC.VAT 21 torque settings
FROM ONLY CCD180 18V 1 £34.99 £41.99 FROM ONLY
£ ABRASIVE SANDING
21EXC.VAT
.99
BELTS IN STOCK CCD240 24V 1 £39.98 £47.98 FROM ONLY
CON300
12EXC.VAT
£ .99
£ .39
26INC.VAT Bosch PSR18 18V 1 £49.98 £59.98 £
£
64EXC.VAT
.99 .59
15INC.VAT
• 82mm £ INCLUDES 12
cutting CBS16 77INC.VAT
.99
PIECE BIT SET
width EXC. INC. *110V in stock
DRILL BIT SHARPENER MODEL BATTERIES VAT VAT
CEP1 Great for 3mm to 10mm MODEL SHEET SIZE MOTOR EX VAT INC VAT
FROM ONLY CON18Ni 2 x Ni-Cd £64.99 £77.99
.98 HSS drill bits 70W motor COS200 190X90mm 150W £12.99 £15.59
MODEL INPUT DEPTH EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£
29EX.VAT Drill bit guide
CON18Li 2 x Li-Ion £84.99 £101.99 C0N300 230X115mm 330W £29.98 £35.98
POWER OF CUT BS1 £
35.98 ensures Makita 112X102mm 200W £54.99 £65.99
sharpening at the £21EXC.VAT
INC.VAT £ .99
Clarke CEP1 650W 2mm £21.99 £26.39 DISC SANDER BO455*
MODEL WATT M/MIN EX VAT INC VAT (305MM)
Einhell RT - PL82 ‡ 850W 3mm £49.98 £59.98 Clarke BS1 900W 380 £29.98 £35.98 correct angle 26INC.VAT
.39
B&D Clarke CBS2 1200W 480 £69.98 £83.98 Saves cost of Powerful, bench mounted disc sander 900W
KW750K - GB 750W 2mm £57.99 £69.59 Makita 9911 650W 75-270 £94.99 £113.99 new drills No load disc speed: 1490rpm 305mm Disc
‡ was £65.99 inc.VAT Diameter (1 x 60 grit sanding disc included)
Dimensions (LWH): £
DRILL PRESSES
BISCUIT JOINER PORTABLE 440x437x386mm 119.98 EXC.VAT
RANDOM ORBITAL £
143.98 CDS3
860W Motor THICKNESSER Weight: INC.VAT
SANDER 11000rpm Operating Speed • Max thickness 28kg
CROS1 14mm Cutting Depth capacity 130mm
£ .99
27EX.VAT • Planing depths CDF5EB DRILL
£
33INC.VAT
.59 adjustable STANDS
from 0-2.5mm
• Powerful ONLY
£
• For sanding 1250w motor 19EX.VAT
.98
• 8000rpm CDS300B £
& polishing
£ ONLY 23INC.VAT
.98
• 125mm .98
49EXC.VAT no-load speed £
59EX.VAT
.98
diameter £ £
179 .98
sanding discs 59INC.VAT
.98
EX.VAT £
71INC.VAT
.98 Drill not
• 4000-11000 opm INC 5 DISCS BJ900 £
215.98
INC.VAT CPT250 included
SAVE
BOLTLESS • Simple fast assembly PLANERS &
in minutes using only a OSCILLATING
SHELVING BENCHES THICKNESSERS BOBBIN SANDER
10%
hammer FROM ONLY
.98 Provides exceptional
£
29EX.VAT CPT800
finishes for deep & wide
£
35.98
INC.VAT WHEN YOU BUY
ANY MIX OF 5
work pieces, front edges &
FROM THIS RANGE narrow inner curves COBS1
SAVE AT LEAST • Dust collection port
£17.99 INC.VAT
• Ideal for DIY & • Inc. 5 sanding sleeves/
CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS
Hobby use •Dual bobbins • 330mm table height
FROM ONLY
purpose, for both ADDITIONAL
139.98
NEW
£
RED, BLUE, BLACK, finishing & sizing of EX.VAT SANDING
ALSO EXTRA WIDE
INDUSTRIAL UNITS
SILVER & GALVANISED
STEEL
timber (CP-6 planer only) £
167.98INC.VAT SLEEVES IN
STOCK
AVAILABLE MODEL MOTOR MAX THICK. EXC. INC.
(evenly (evenly MODEL SHELF DIMS CAPACITY VAT VAT
ONLY
distributed)
Strong 9mm KG
350 distributed) WxDxH(mm) EX VAT INC VAT
Strong 12 mm 150kg 800x300x1500 £29.98 £35.98
CP-6
CPT600
1100W
1250W
* £139.98 £167.98
120mm £169.98 £203.98 £
114EXC.VAT
.98
CPT800 1250W 120mm £189.98 £227.98
fibreboard
PER SHELF shelves PER SHELF
fibreboard
shelves
350kg 900x400x1800 £49.98 £59.98
CPT1000 NEW 1500W 120mm £269.98 £323.98
£
137INC.VAT
.98
23686LH
066_067_WWC_003.indd 66 11/06/2015 14:55

£
144EXC.VAT
.99
visit machinemart.co.uk
GET
MORTISING £173INC.VAT
MACHINE
.99
CBM1B
Accurately creates deep square
recesses Table size 150 x 340mm
Maximum chisel cap.76mm Robust
FOR
OVER
PRODUCTS
15,000 FREECATALOGUE
500
PAGE
YOUR
FREE
cast iron base & column ensures
stability & accuracy 95mm depth
of cut
INCLUDING
NEW Over COPY
NOW!
“It is fast and accurate with a
good solid feel...Excellent value for
money, I’m really pleased with it.”
See www.machinemart.co.uk
SPECIALIST PRODUCTS
CLICK &
1500 PRICE CUTS &
• IN-STORE
• ONLINE
NEW PRODUCTS • PHONE
CHISELS AVAILABLE FROM
£7.99 EX VAT £9.59 INC VAT COLLECT 0844 880 1265
WOODWORKING 10" SLIDING MITRE SAWS DUST EXTRACTOR/

QUALITY CAST
VICES MITRE SAW CHIP COLLECTORS
IRON STOVES
FROM ONLY
• For fast, accurate
cross, bevel & £ METABO LARGE & XL MODELS
£ .49
13EX.VAT mitre cutting in
119.98
EXC.VAT ALSO
20 GREAT STYLES
IN STOCK IN STOCK
£
£
16.19
INC.VAT most hard & soft 143.98
INC.VAT AVAILABLE
FLUES, COWLS &
woods
• 1800w FROM ONLY ACCESSORIES IN POT BELLY
WV7 £ STOCK
motor 54EXC.VAT
.99
PRICE CUT
MODEL MOUNTING JAW • Laser guide £
65INC.VAT
.99 £
(WIDTH/OPENING £ 89.98 EXC.VAT
/DEPTH)mm EXC.VAT INC.VAT

129EXC.VAT
.98
11.8kW 107
£ .98
INC.VAT
£
Clarke Bolted 150/152/61 £13.49 £16.19 155INC.VAT
.98
TH-SM 2534 • Powerful WAS £113.98 inc.VAT
CHT152 750w motor
Stanley Clamped 72/60/40 £16.99 £20.39 CMS10S2 • Quality Range of Mitre saws and blades available
MODEL BLADE DIA MAX CUT EX. INC. • 56 litre bag capacity
Multi Angle • Flow rate of 850M3/h
Record V75B Clamped 75/50/32 £18.99 £22.79 MITRE SAW BORE (mm)DEPTH/CROSS VAT VAT
STAND Einhell 210/30 55/120mm £54.99 £65.99 6.9kW
Clarke WV7 Bolted 180/205/78 £24.99 £29.99 FLOW BAG
TH-MS 2112 MODEL MOTOR RATE CAP. EX VAT INC VAT
Fury 3 210/25.4 60/200mm £119.98 £143.98 CDE35B 750w 850 M3/h 56Ltrs £119.98 £143.98 BARREL
Einhell 250/30 75/340mm £159.98 £191.98 £
CFMSS1 TH-SM2534
CDE7B 750w 850 M3/h 114Ltrs £139.98 £167.98 209EXC.VAT
.00
£
£ Makita 260/30 95/130mm £199.98 £239.98 250INC.VAT
.80
64EXC.VAT
.99
LS1040 5PCE FORSTNER
£
77INC.VAT
.99
ROTARY TOOL BIT SET CIRCULAR SAWS
Contains 15, 20, 25, 30 & FROM ONLY
• Suitable for most KIT 35mm bits Titanium
Great range of DIY £
34EXC.VAT
.99
sizes/makes of saw and professional
• Inc. outriggers & rollers nitride coated for saws Ideal for
£
41INC.VAT
.99
MUCH MORE CRT40 improved
£ bevel cutting
WOODWORKING 29EX.VAT
.98
cutting finish (0-45°)
£
ONLINE
DOVETAIL JIG 35INC.VAT
.98
9EXC.VAT
£ .98
CON185
£
TURBO AIR • Simple, easy to set up & use for producing Kit includes:
• Height adjustable stand with clamp • Rotary tool
11INC.VAT
.98 CHT365
a variety of joints • Cuts work pieces with a *Includes
COMPRESSORS thickness of 8-32mm • Includes a 1/2" comb • 1m flexible drive • 40x accessories/consumables
BENCH GRINDERS laser guide
template guide & holes for bench mounting 6" BENCH GRINDER
• Superb range HUGE RANGE PRICE CUT
& STANDS MODEL MOTOR MAX CUT
ideal for DIY, £ WITH SANDING BELT • Stands come 90/45
hobby & semi-
OF AIR TOOLS
IN STOCK
54EXC.VAT
.99
complete with
6" & 8"
AVAILABLE (mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT
professional
£
65 .99
INC.VAT • For sanding/shaping £
49.98
EX.VAT bolt mountings WITH LIGHT Clarke
wood, CCS185B 1200W 65/44 £34.99 £41.99
use WAS £71.98 inc.VAT
plastic
£
59.98
INC.VAT
and feet
anchor holes Clarke
& CBG6SB STAND AVAILABLE FROM CC52 1300W 60/45 £59.98 £71.98
CLARKE 8MM CDTJ12 FROM ONLY ONLY £41.99 EX.VAT
metal £ Clarke
AIR HOSE Router not • Supplied 27EX.VAT
.99
£50.39 INC.VAT
CON185* 1600W 60/40 £59.98 £71.98
FROM ONLY £
£5.99 EX VAT
included with coarse 33INC.VAT
.59
£7.19 INC VAT grinding HARDWOOD

wheel WORKBENCH
ROUTERS & sanding belt CBG8W Includes bench dogs and guide holes for
features variable work positioning 2 Heavy Duty Vices
CR1C 8" whetstone & Large storage draw Sunken tool trough
FROM ONLY 6"drystone. LxWxH 1520x620x855mm
£ # With sanding belt
79EXC.VAT
.98
FROM ONLY
£
95INC.VAT
.98
8/250
£ .98
39EX.VAT CR2 ROUTER MODEL DUTY WHEEL
DIA. EX VAT INC VAT
MODEL MOTOR CFM TANK EX VAT INC VAT £
47.98
INC.VAT
£
109.98
EX.VAT
CBG6RP DIY 150mm £27.99 £33.59
Tiger 8/250 2Hp 7.5 24ltr £79.98 £95.98 ACCESSORIES
£
131.98
INC.VAT CBG6RZ PRO 150mm £37.99 £45.59 CHB1500
Tiger 7/250 2 Hp 7 24ltr £89.98 £107.98 IN STOCK • Powerful heavy CBG6RSC HD 150mm £47.99 £57.59
Tiger 8/36 1.5 Hp 6.3 24ltr £109.98 £131.98 duty machine CBG6SB# PRO 150mm £49.98 £59.98
Tiger 11/250 2.5Hp 9.5 24ltr £119.98 £143.98 ideal for CBG6RWC HD 150mm £54.99 £65.99
Tiger 8/510 2Hp 7.5 50ltr £129.98 £155.98 * DIY trade use CBG8W (wet) HD 150/200mm £55.99 £67.19
Tiger 11/510 2.5Hp 9.5 50ltr £149.98 £179.98 MODEL MOTOR PLUNGE EX VAT INC VAT • Variable £
129EXC.VAT
.98
Tiger 16/510 3 Hp 14.5 50ltr £219.98 £263.98 (W) (mm) speed control from £
Tiger 16/1010 3 Hp 14.5 100ltr £269.98 £323.98 CR1C* 1200 0-50 £39.98 £47.98 7,400-21, 600 rpm • 2100w motor • 0-60mm 155INC.VAT
.98
Bosch 1400 0-55 £74.99 £89.99 plunge depth. CR3 Router with 15 Piece Bit Set
TABLE SAW WITH POF1400ACE also available only £94.99
£113.99 255mm 13" MINI
CTS14
EXTENSION SCROLL SAWS INCLUDES 15 MULTI- WOOD LATHE
TABLES (250mm) PIECE SET WORTH PURPOSE £
Ideal for cross cutting,
FROM ONLY
OVER £20
TABLE 129EX.VAT
.98
ripping, angle and £

155INC.VAT
.98
mitre cutting
£
64EXC.VAT
.99 SAWS
Easy £ ROUTER TABLE FURY 5 ONLY
release
77INC.VAT
.99
CRT-1
£
149.98 EXC.VAT
/ locking •120w, 230v Router not £
NEW mechanism motor • 50mm included 179 .98
INC.VAT
WAS £191.98 inc.VAT
for table max cut thickness
• 400-1,700rpm variable MODEL MAX TABLE EXC. INC.
extensions 0-45° tilting DEPTH CUT SIZE (mm) VAT VAT
blade Cutting depth: speed • Air-blower removes
dust from cutting area CSS16V 45° 90° CWL325V
72mm at 90° / FURY5* 54mm 73mm 625x444 £149.98 £179.98
£ .98
119EXC.VAT 65mm at 45°
MODEL MOTOR RPM
SPEED EX
VAT
INC
VAT
£
56EX.VAT
.99 RAGE5‡ 55mm 79mm 868x444 £269.00 £322.80
£ 230V/50Hz,
143INC.VAT Motor:
.98
1800W, CSS400B 85w 1450 £64.99 £77.99 • Converts your router £ .39
68INC.VAT *FURY power: 1500w (110V available)
• Ideal for enthusiasts/
hobbyists with small workshops
No load speed: 4700rpm CSS16V 120w 400-1700 £79.98 £95.98 into a stationary router ‡RAGE power: 1800w/230V (110V available) • 325mm distance between centres • 200mm
Shown with optional leg kit CSS400C* 90w 550-1600 £99.98 £119.98 table • Suitable for most table extensions included max. turning capacity (dia) • 0.2HP motor
CLK5 £22.99 exc.VAT £27.59 inc.VAT * Includes flexible drive kit for grinding/polishing/sanding routers (up to 155mm dia. Base plate) * was £191.98 inc.VAT ‡ was £334.80 inc.VAT
V
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE OPEN MON-FRI 8.30-6.00,
SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00 *NEW STORE OPEN 7 DAYS
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby 01642 677881
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01228 591666
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For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE.
066_067_WWC_003.indd 67 11/06/2015 14:55

Upcycling & restoration
Amber Bailey
As a recent
graduate of the BA
(Hons) Furniture:
Conservation,
Restoration
& Decorative Arts course
at Buckinghamshire New
University, Amber now works
as a marquetarian and restorer,
specialising in veneered furniture.
From September, 2015 she is off
to Paris to study marquetry for a
year at the prestigious Ecole Boulle,
refining her skills and learning the
traditional French techniques.
Web: www.abmarquetry.com
The RESTORER’S
WORKSHOP
– a miscellany
Amber Bailey has developed a number of techniques
and methods, which she uses in her workshop on a
regular basis – she shares them with us here
I
have been fortunate enough paraphernalia, lending themselves to projects, I cover the bench with a piece
to have experienced working very neat restoration methods, which of carpet or a non-slip mat – both are
in or poking around a number you wouldn’t necessarily think of when soft enough not to cause scratches.
of workshops, all having been you are rummaging through your
set up for very specific purposes. toolbox in search of a quick fix. Collecting tools
Working primarily as a restorer and It’s tempting to splash out on shiny
marquetarian, the arrangement of my Bench preparation new and expensive tools, but I find it
bench and tools is in stark contrast to My work surfaces come into contact a good idea to stock up on a few tatty
your everyday woodworker. I seemed with materials and liquids that may old ones as well. Inevitably, restoration
to have filled drawers with household leave behind residue. To protect requires furniture to be disassembled
WWC03 P68-71 RESTORERS WORKSHOPtfABJRSD.indd 68 17/06/2015 09:46

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMBER BAILEY

before it can be stabilised and there • Conservation pads – or a scouring
is nothing more disheartening than pad to you and me, is ideal for tough Enzyme cleaning
hearing the clink of metal and realising dirt that is refusing to budge. As a first time witness to enzyme
your beautiful chisel has come into cleaning, I was horrified and repulsed
contact with a nail and is suffering • Cotton buds and pads – a staple in equal measure but soon enough
the consequences. requirement for anyone who wears it became a ‘go-to’ technique,
make up, they also happen to be particularly when restoring
Cleaning – materials ideal for cleaning dirt from furniture, lacquerwork. An efficient cleaning
I am no stranger to bulk buying especially from all the nooks and method that demands no more
household cleaning products. Here crannies. technical ability than spitting onto a
are some I could not be without: cloth – literally.
• Other useful odds and ends –
• Wet wipes – dusting off furniture is in restoration, surface finishing is Oxalic acid
all well and good, but can just mean a delicate art, dealing with large Used in a ratio of two spatulas to
that you are moving the dust around quantities of materials is no time 100ml of distilled water, oxalic acid
rather than picking it up. Mopping for guesswork. Precisely measuring is brilliant for lifting dirt from wood
across with wet wipes will lift the dust on a set of kitchen scales allows for grain or even ink stains – a common
while not being moist enough to have continuity in the results of solution problem on antique writing surfaces.
adverse effects on the wood. Avoid any making. With oxalic being a bleach, it does
wipes that may contain silicone, such need to be neutralised afterwards.
as furniture wipes. • Garden water spray gun – thanks
to our toasty warm houses filled with
•Soda crystals – in the restoration central heating, one of the major
of some furniture, it may be possible problem areas in restoration is timber
to rework the existing surface finish, drying out, which can cause cracks and
but more often than not it is beyond warping. Manipulating some of these
repair and in need of removal. As a last pieces of veneer or wood may cause
measure before applying anything new, more damage than good, so I keep a
washing the object with soda crystals garden water spray gun on hand to
will remove any lasting residue to leave lightly reapply enough moisture for Oxalic acid liđs dirt instantly
a blank canvas as it were. the wood to soften. ➤
Old tools are ođen more substanধal than modern versions –

they will fare beħer when taking a beaধng It’s not all hammers and saws!
Coħon buds are ideal for cleaning dirt from furniture
Anধ-slip mats or
carpet are great
for protecধng
your bench from
scratches

Using wallpaper paste to so en animal glue A hob needs constant a en on when in use, unlike a baby
bo le warmer which can be safely le
GLUING The danger to look for in antique paste onto the specific area, the paste
The miracle of traditional furniture furniture is previous repairs, essentially works as a water in gel
assembly is that we can quite safely particularly bodge jobs where you form. If this is left for 10 minutes, it
predict the glues that will have been can find a variety of glues and pieces then rehydrates the glue ready to be
used in a piece. It was only in the 20th secured in place with nails shoved in scraped. Water on its own has the
century and really with the demands at all angles. When detaching a chair same effect, but the paste will stop
of progression to support the war leg, you can tell the glue is protein if any moisture spreading to and
effort that we start to see all sorts of separating the two pieces causes a very damaging other surfaces.
adhesives invented to fulfil specific satisfying and loud crack. Some traditional glues can be
requirements. Prior to this period, the applied cold but conventionally
only glues available had been protein- Removing glue they would be heated prior to use –
based and if you can date a piece of Occasionally, in antique furniture accessing a hob can be a lot of effort
furniture to this period, then you there can be evidence of previous with added health and safety risks.
can presume the adhesive. Modern gluing, which needs to be removed. A baby bottle warmer is the perfect
glues can be difficult to manipulate or It can be tempting to chisel off an answer; this keeps my glue warm and
remove; however, protein glue simply enormous drip of adhesive but there not reaching boiling point. It is also
needs to be rehydrated accordingly; is the possibility that the surface might much more cost and energy efficient!
this will reactivate the glue and it can get scratched as a result. By mixing up
then be removed in liquid form. and applying a solution of wallpaper CLAMPING – sandbags
Gluing up work isn’t always a
straightforward task. It is always
advisable to test a ‘dry run’ to deal with
any issues. Not all surfaces are going
to be flat and applying enough even
pressure can be tricky. Sandbags are
ideal to act as a layer between the work
and clamps. They are an easy make and
with playpit sand costing under £10,
they are quite a bargain!
Protecting the furniture surfaces
is really important when drying as
clamps can leave dents. Softwood is
a traditional solution but rubber or
Perspex can work just as well. The
advantage of a plastic such as clear
Perspex or polypropylene is that you
can see through it – obvious, I know –
this way any movement that may have
taken place can be dealt with before
the adhesive has set rather than waiting
Play pit sand is very fine, making it suitable for sandbags and even sanding shading 24 hours to find out if the process has
for veneers been successful.

Handy hint
When colouring
up a piece, I consider
the lighting that it will sit
under. A workshop may be lit
differently and I don’t want
any hideous surprises
when the furniture is
reinstated.
Right: A restorer’s pale e usually consists

of a range of browns and yellows
AGEING
Colouring – watercolours
These days, I find that my box of artists’ HANDY HINT
watercolours no longer have a use up I find it worth splashing out on a few
in the house, instead they are regularly natural fibre brushes, they may cost more
called upon in the workshop to faux than their synthetic counterparts but
age surface finishes. Thin layers of natural fibres are much softer so will not
paint can be built up and sealed with leave drag marks in the surface finish.
shellac, easily removed if necessary.
Sometimes you can believe the aim is
to clean an object as much as possible
only to find it looks wrong, some dirt
or dark areas can actually accentuate
detail in a very attractive way.
Reclaiming materials
No matter how well I colour up
replacement sections on antique
furniture, chances are there will
always be a slight difference between
the new and old. Salvaging discarded
pieces of wood from past projects or
disassembling objects broken beyond
repair is a good means of using
authentic replacement materials.
Ageing hardware
To be as true to history as possible,
as a restorer I try to save any useable
hardware. Nails are one item Salvaging veneer from an old tea caddy A contrast between new and aged wood
that cannot be reused so modern
replacements are required. To ensure
attraction is not drawn to any shiny
metal, the tops of the nails can be
painted with a mixture of pigment and
shellac to imitate rust.
Suppliers
I find DIY stores or the household
cupboard generally has most of the
things I need for conservation work
except oxalic acid, which can be
bought from chemical or restoration A nail, which has been painted to give an The same technique can be applied to
suppliers. ■ aged effect screws

Community
READER’S LETTERS
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

If you have something to say about the magazine
or a specific woodworking topic, please feel free
to send us an email or a letter
Write to: The Editor, Woodworking Crafts, 86 High Street, Lewes,
East Sussex BN7 1XN. Alternatively, email: [email protected]
PHOTOGRAPH BY
ROGER BUSE
som of the
Just some
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.GAW.ORG.UK

Marquetry highlights fro
from issue 2
courses Something
Ed: In issue 1, I gave a slightly
shabby answer to a reader’s request
for everyone
for more information about Hi Anthony, the new issue of
marquetry. I’d like to thank Quentin Woodworking Crafts has just popped
Smith for his much more helpful through the letterbox. I love your
Marquetarian Quenধn Smith
response, which we have published gothic workstation and I will certainly
below. Hopefully Quentin will join the country and all have experienced make the planter and the scrollsaw
us from time to time to discuss marquetarians on hand to offer coasters. My daughter is very much
various aspects of the craft of advice and guidance, plus a stock of into upcycling, so I almost lost sight
marquetry! basic tools and materials to get you of Lucy Bailey’s article before I had
started. Details can be found on the a chance to read it! I perform in
Hi Anthony, thank you for your Society’s website: www.marquetry. amateur musicals and, from her list
reply to Virginia LeMaistre’s enquiry org. Alternatively, I run occasional of interests, Lucy would have enjoyed
about marquetry courses in the courses, usually in Staffordshire but seeing the set that our group built for
first issue. You’re right, there aren’t also at some craft studios, and also last week’s production of Sweeney
many courses available, but one offer one-to-one tuition. I can be Todd. The bodies dropped from sight
great way to learn is to visit one of contacted through my website: www. spectacularly!
the Marquetry Society’s affiliated qjsmarquetry.co.uk I am lucky enough to have a well-
groups. There are about 20 around Quentin Smith – by email equipped workshop. My other, non-
upcycling daughter was married a few
Educaধon, educaধon, educaধon!

weeks ago and I was ‘commissioned’
to make several items, one of which
was a replica post box into which
Dear Anthony, I have been learning I did woodworking at Tring School guests could post cards, etc. on the
about woodworking for 45 years. I left and took it as a hobby at home, day, which was well used. With the
Tring School in July, 1970 and worked where I undertook many projects and addition of a glass top it will become a
as an apprentice cabinetmaker in repaired furniture, before I moved to feature side table or pot plant stand in
Hertfordshire. From 1970–75, I did a Peterborough in 1986. I bought many the happy couple’s home.
City & Guilds course at Hertfordshire tools and also woodworking magazines John Doonan – by email
College of Building in St Peter’s Place, from Practical Woodworking, The
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.RAINFORDRESTORATION.COM
where I carried on working till 1986. Cabinetmaker, The Woodworker and Ed’s reply: Thank you for your letter,
the great DIY magazine, the editor of John. I’m glad you have enjoyed
which was Tony Wilkins. I look forward the second issue of Woodworking
to reading the new magazine. Crafts and that your thrifty upcycling
Remi Smit – by letter daughter enjoyed it too! We are
aiming to appeal to a wider audience
Ed’s reply: It is a great shame that of readers so that is good news as far
nowadays, young people, on the as I am concerned. I am the lead set
whole, do not receive opportunities to builder for our amateur dramatic
work with wood and learn the use of society so it is interesting to learn
tools. I’m sure this is not just to their you are also involved with ‘treading
detriment but the country as a whole, the boards’. Maybe you would like to
because we still need people with share your wedding day pillar box
practical skills. I hope that in some with our readers? It sounds like a
Bill Rainford teaching tradiধonal small way, magazines like ours can fascinating project and I can’t wait
woodworking help teach readers of all ages. to see it!
WWC03 P72 READERS LETTERStfABJR.indd 72 11/06/2015 10:43

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073_WWC_003.indd 73 11/06/2015 14:55

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074_WWC_003.indd 74 11/06/2015 14:57

Community
Makita DMR106 job site radio

Makita’s new DMR106 job site radio bristles with high From
quality sound production features and many technical £163
features. The latest models feature high impact
resistant elastomer corner bumpers and steel facia
protection bars. With an IP64 protection rating against dust
and water ingress, these new radios will live on site safely.
The DMR106 job site radio weighs just 4.2kg with a hinged
top carry handle. Available in either traditional Makita blue
or you can choose the DMR106B version in stylish black.
£419.98 Contact: Makita
Tel: 01908 211 678 Web: www.makitauk.com
akitauk.co
KIT &
Clarke CBS300 305mm
TOOLS
Take a look at the tools,
professional bandsaw & stand gadgets and gizmos
This high quality, floor standing bandsaw
features a strong steel body with a solid that we think you From
ground cast-iron table and balanced cast £306
alloy wheels, which allow for smooth will enjoy using
blade operation. The table tilts 45°,
has an adjustable blade guide and a blade in your workshop
tension indication window. There is a Bosch 36V
V rotary hammer drills
quick-release blade tensioning From Bosch has just launched d the new GBH 36 V-LI
lever and flexible LED work light. £59.96 Plus Professional and the GBH BH 36 VF-LI Plus
This machine has a 750W motor Professional hammer drills. Choose between a
and is supplied with stand, a 4tpi, fixed chuck (V) and the changeable chuck (VF(VF)
2,240mm cutting blade, rip fence, models. Both rotary hammers provide more
mitre guide, mitre gauge and power, a longer lifetime, new convenience
pushstick. features, vibration damping and longer battery
Contact: Machine Mart runtimes. These rotary hammers are designed
Tel: 01159 565 555 for a broad range of tasks, from small drilling
Web: www.machinemart.co.uk applications in tiles to more extensive chiselling
applications.
Contact: Bosch
Tel: 03447 360 109
Axminster Tradesman Kit Bag Web: www.bosch-pt.com
– with or without accessories
This robust holdall has the capacity to hold a wide range of tools
and accessories. There is enough room for a power drill and its
battery together with a selection of useful drill bits, drivers, £299
screws and more. The bag can be purchased on its own or with
103 accessory bits. Price valid until 31 December, 2015.
Contact: Axminster Tools & Machinery
Tel: 03332 406 406 Web: www.axminster.co.uk
Trend Scribemaster
The Trend Scribemaster Pro skirting board scribing jig is now available pre-
assembled. It is up to 10x faster than manual scribes and gives precise cuts
every time. It cuts any skirting or dado profile and also scribes profiles into
kitchen plinth. The Scribemaster cuts left or right-hand, warped boards
accurately and mounts quickly onto your mitre saw bench.
Contact: Trend
Tel: 01923 249 911
Web: www.trend-uk.com
WWC03 P75 KIT & TOOLStfJRABSD.indd 75 17/06/2015 09:49

Hand woodworking

DIY
CONSUMABLES
– part 2
Last month the Editor looked at fixings i.e.
glues, screws and nails. This month, he puts
some other essentials under the spotlight
ABRASIVES time and attaches easily to hook- Above, from leđ to right, clockwise:
Abrasive mesh is very similar to and-loop sanding pads. Available abrasive web; foam abrasive block;
domestic scourers, but has abrasive in various grades. two rolls of aluminium oxide paper;
particles attached to it and comes Finishing papers sometimes have grey lubricaধng paper; Abranet mesh;
in several grades. It is excellent for a powdered stearate wax applied so grey punched half delta sheet; dark
cleaning metal and rubbing down the cutting action is gentler and avoids grey foam backed finished pad; delta
between coats of finish. Foam clogging. The fine grades are the ones and orbital mesh and punched yellow
aluminium oxide coated abrasive to choose for nice smooth results with orbital finishing paper
blocks are a great way to do DIY paint, varnish and lacquer.
sanding tasks – there are blocks
with a bevel edge that allow sanding MASTICS have a neutral alcohol-based curing
in awkward corners. Silicones come in various grades from agent which gives a longer, more
Aluminium oxide papers are very exterior to bathroom. It is a complex secure working life. Mirror adhesives
efficient and last well. They can scratch science: most common silicones use are designed to securely hold a mirror
easily because the abrasive particles ‘acetoxi’ curing – smells like vinegar without disturbing and marking the
don’t break down easily during use – and there are silicones with either silvered backing. Laminate floor
so avoid the coarsest grades. a high or low modulus of elasticity sealant is colour matched to suit a
Abranet is a unique and brilliant to cope with different working specific hard laminate floor colour.
mesh abrasive that can be used by conditions. This matters because it It is useful for filling gaps neatly.
hand or machine, although best as the affects the life and strength of silicone Caulking, such as Polyfiller, is
latter. It doesn’t clog and lasts a long joints. Professional silicones should intended for closing cracks and gaps
WWC03 P76-77 DIY CONSUMABLEStfABJRSD.indd 76 11/06/2015 10:46

Hand woodworking
From leđ to right:

general purpose
silicone; bathroom
silicone and mirror
adhesive. From front
to back: laminate floor
sealer; caulking and
builder’s masধc
when interior decorating. It isn’t quick fix uses. It comes with adhesive ventilation ducts, etc. It is more
intended for exterior use and lacks backing or without. However, based versatile than that but not as reliable
structural strength. on experience, I would not rely on the as Gorilla-type tapes.
Builders’ mastics come in two adhesive without using staples as well. Silver adhesive tape is intended for
types: water-based solvent free or Where upholstery meets wood then sealing edges and joints in silver-faced
solvent-based. The first type is useful the plain version is necessary and is polyurethane insulation board. I have
for general repairs but behave a bit available in white or black. found other uses for it, but don’t leave
like caulking in consistency. For true There are various ‘tough tapes’ it where the kids can see it or it will get
strength, the solvent based ones cannot but only some meet that description, used to customise toys!
be beaten – use for anything critical. Gorilla being one of them. More Glass fibre reinforced tapes confer
expensive, but so long as the receiving great strength where reinforcement is
TAPES surfaces are dry and dust-free, you will needed using multiple layers. If you
There are a confusing variety of tapes, have trouble removing it! need a waterproof tape, check that
only some of which are featured here. Duct tape is what it says it is – it is or buy a suitable tape without
Hook-and-loop tape has a multitude of a medium duty tape for sealing reinforcement.
Industrial double-sided tape is
thicker with a light fabric layer to
reinforce it. Frequently used for
jigmaking and routing, but also
handy for fixing conduit and other
things around the home.
Low-tack masking tape is different
to the standard or Pound Shop type
because it can be gently peeled away
to avoid damaging an underlying paint
finish. Some claim to give a really clean
paint edge when trying to achieve a
neat ‘cut line’. ■
From leđ to right, clockwise: hook-

and-loop; Gorilla tape; duct tape;
polyurethane board edging tape;
glass fibre reinforced tape; industrial
double-sided tape and low-tack
masking tape
WWC03 P76-77 DIY CONSUMABLEStfABJRSD.indd 77 11/06/2015 10:46

Community
BOOK REVIEWS
We review three books for you to enjoy
Woodturning: A Foundation Letter Carving: Techniques & Carving Spoons: Welsh Love
Course Projects To Hone Your Skills Spoons, Celtic Knots, and
by Keith Rowley by Andrew J. Hibberd Contemporary Favourites
by Shirley Adler
This is a new edition of Keith Rowley’s Andrew J. Hibberd has released Letter – Revised Second Edition
Woodturning: A Foundation Course, Carving: Techniques & Projects To
first released in 1990, which now Hone Your Skills, a 192-page guide The revised second edition of this book
includes a DVD tutorial presented full of tips, hints and tricks to get your is a bright and fun guide to spoon
by Keith himself. Overall, it is an letters exactly how you want them. carving. With an introduction from
introduction to the world and art of The author’s passion for letter carving Harley Refsal and historical notes and
woodturning, with information on in wood and stone is clear to see, designs by E J Tangerman, it is a team
the subject packed in. Keith takes a explaining clearly all elements of the effort, resulting in an informative book
methodical approach to woodturning, letters’ construction. and creative collection of spoons. The
to build up the readers’ skills and Andrew shares key techniques for group of designs included make for a
confidence in turning, in timber a beginner to intermediate audience, ‘useful, sentimental and collectable’
selection and choosing the right after the essential background bunch of spoons.
tools to learning efficient and safe information, examining the techniques The print throughout the book is
techniques. The text-based guide, as in detail. The guide concludes with large and the images and illustrations
well as good quality photographs and eight projects, from a simple house are detailed. The step-by-step chapters
illustrations, has 12 projects for you sign to decorative lettering on a are very detailed, with 70 steps for
to try. These projects give you a wide breadboard and bench. These projects ‘carving your first spoon’ and 39 steps
variety of pieces to practise your newly are great to further develop your learnt for ‘carving the Welsh lovespoon’. The
learnt skills on. The projects include letter carving skills. It has to be said author even breaks up the instructional
a goblet, apple and pear, your first that there is plenty of information chapters, looking specifically at making
bowl, a platter, bar stool, staircase packed into each page, which goes a curved handle and in the design
balusters, plinth, an inlaid nut bowl, to show just how detailed this book process, how to make a model, which
twig pot, pepper mill, table lamp and a is and how Andrew has provided as is also set out in a step-by-step format.
twist pen. Throughout the book, Keith much information as he can on each In the introductory chapters there
uses six easy-to-remember ‘rules of section he covers. The text is also are various tips on tools, sharpening,
woodturning’. He guides you through accompanied by a number of diagrams safety, wood, sanding, finishing, bowl
the 12 projects step-by-step and covers and wonderfully clear and colourful and handle designs. The end of the
between centres and faceplate turning, photographs. There are also plenty of book serves as a collection of full-size
along with boring, routing and photographic examples to help with pattern designs, including mix-and-
finishing techniques, as well as looking inspiration. match designs. Shirley doesn’t forget to
to the very basics, from wood grain Although Andrew is aiming towards address the possible problems that may
and the design of a piece, to courses beginner and intermediate carvers with arise, providing suitable solutions and
and where to go for further education this book, he also supplies practical for inspiration, includes a short gallery
after finishing the book. tips for professional results. of finished spoons.
ISBN: 9781784940638 ISBN: 9781861089526 ISBN: 9781565238503

Price: £19.99 (plus P&P) Price: £16.99 (plus P&P) Price: £10.85 (plus P&P)
Web: www.thegmcgroup.com Web: www.thegmcgroup.com Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
WWC03 P78 BOOK REVIEWStfABJRSD.indd 78 11/06/2015 10:47

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079_WWC_003.indd 79 19/06/2015 14:37
Power woodworking
Bosch GLM
Professional Laser
Rangefinder & R60
Measuring Level
Geoffrey Laycock sets his sights on this

sophisticated piece of measuring kit
L
aser rangefinders have advanced useful in poor conditions and for poor for conventional tape is
rapidly in recent years and reflective surfaces. When in simple possible and it records the
this offering from Bosch, the measuring mode, there is also a small minimum and maximum
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BOSCH

GLM 80 Professional, is no exception. display of inclination; one button press measurements while in this
The combination comes with the R60 changes this to the primary display and mode – in other words, find
Professional measuring rail, which switches on the audible horizontal/ the shortest and longest
itself is a nice aluminium extrusion vertical beep. distances from the measuring g
with horizontal and vertical level vials/ In range finding mode it also shows point. I tested this function
bubbles, both on this example being inclination and with one button press successfully on an old door
accurate. The premium price for this this function takes over with a clearer, casing, which I knew was not
600mm level is due to the socket into dedicated display. When measuring, up well installed.
which the GLM 80 locks to provide a to 20 results are stored and this may be Indirect length measurement allows
digital level measuring to 0.1° accuracy. the first suggestion that it is too clever the unit to be placed on a horizontal
for its own good. I know that if I take surface and then tilted up so the laser
In use even three measurements I need to hits the target height you wish to
Using the GLM 80 to measure is have some means of recording what measure – for example, the height of
simple. Four different reference each refers to; the GLM 80 just displays a vertical wall but where access to the
positions are available: front edge, rear a list. What is useful is being able to bottom of the wall is not possible. By
edge – default setting – a pointer that add each measurement as you go so measuring the inclined angle and the
deploys from the rear edge to allow finding the total length of multiple inclined distance it then calculates and
corner measuring, or from the centre skirting, for example. displays the vertical height of the target
of thread of the tripod attachment on above the horizontal plane. Think
the underside of the body. A tripod The need for accuracy that’s clever? It will do the reverse
is available as an extra, as are laser The rangefinder can be set to measure and use the inclined measurement to
enhancing glasses and target plate – continuously so using it as a substitute calculate the horizontal distance. It also
WWC03 P80-81 BOSCH LASER LEVELtfABSDJRSD.indd 80 11/06/2015 10:47

Power woodworking
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEOFFREY LAYCOCK, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

When in
measuring mode, Trying to fit the measuring rail into a 600mm
a level display is gap does not work and fitting any units, shelves
also shown. The and similar is where this level should excel
display auto-
rotates for
easy reading
This photo shows

the volume
measuring mode
does double indirect measurement the manual again. A pocket guide is

not requiring a horizontal plane. included but as this is purely pictorial
Using with the R60 allows more it too can seem a bit of a mystery.
accurate level measuring. The GLM The display is clear with a two level Laid flat the two bubbles are not
80 clips securely into a socket and back-light but I could find no way to accurate, a shame as it can be useful
pressing the ‘measure’ button maintain the screen light on at full to level in two dimensions
converts it to a digital level. Alone brightness and I have yet to work out
and combined with the rail the what the auto brightness setting does.
GLM 80 can have the level function Whoever designed the user interface
recalibrated but unfortunately the – the UI – or what each button does
methodology for the two are slightly and how, needs to go on a good
different and I found the instruction ergonomics design course as logic
diagrams slightly confusing and seems slightly lacking.
the process just a little frustrating. To end on a positive note, I used
However, once recalibrated, the unit the checking protocol to ensure it was
measures accurately. measuring accurately and consistently.
My target was measured at 4716.4mm Fitted in the measuring rail you have
Lacks ergonomic logic to 4716.9mm away measured 10 times, a clear angular measurement. In this
In use the GLM 80 is accurate and basic so those 10 measurements showed example, the arrows show which
measuring is easy. Unless in regular variation of a maximum 0.5mm or direction it would need to move to
use the other functions can become 0.017% at that distance. become vertical. Below a 45° angle
a dim memory requiring reference to The included beep function it indicates the direction to move to
indicating horizontal and vertical horizontal. Once close to those two
would be useful fixing that new positions a variable audible indication
kitchen cupboard, but think again. tells you when you are close and then
The common unit size is 600mm spot on
wide, to fit inside it would need to
be less than 564mm long. Also a
problem is using between already
installed units for example to level
an extraction hood. I’m tempted to
saw one end off…..
Verdict
This combination is accurate and
highly functional albeit in a ‘could-do-
better’ ergonomics way. It is expensive
and I would suggest most users save
some money and buy a cheaper and
simpler rangefinder and a dedicated Geoffrey Laycock
digital level. Both requirements can be Geoffrey Laycock is a regular
satisfied by other excellent pieces of kit contributor to our sister magazine,
in the Bosch range. ■ Furniture & Cabinetmaking. Outside
of his woodworking and engineering
This extract from the manual shows THE BOTTOM LINE activities, he is a Chartered
the four measuring positions on the Price: £195 (inc VAT) Ergonomics, Human Factors and
rangefinder and four of the measuring Web: www.Bosch-Professional.com Safety Consultant.
functions available
WWC03 P80-81 BOSCH LASER LEVELtfABSDJRSD.indd 81 11/06/2015 10:47

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Hand woodworking
GREEN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER WOOD
WOODWORKING
Tools of the trade
Peter Wood, current ‘log-to-leg’ world
champion chair bodger, takes us through
Peter Wood
a gamut of green woodworking tools and Peter has been a skilled green wood
craftsperson making Windsor chairs
devices used to create wet wood wonders! and other creations for over 25 years.
He demonstrates these skills around
the country, gives lectures and runs
I
n this article I will work through my up the making process or adding to a
basic greenwood tool list in order better finished product while justifying hands-on workshops for all ages.
of use for the production of a chair the additional cost! Luckily, I can tell He set up Greenwood Days in the
leg, but tools for chairmaking will be myself that students on my courses National Forest as a centre to teach a
covered in a later article. need to see and try out a wide range of range of traditional and contemporary
I do love the look and feel of tools tools, so I just really should buy that crafts. He is also the current world
both old and new and have been known new tool! For the initial conversion of champion pole lathe turner!
to pore over catalogues and search logs to a convenient size, a chainsaw is Web: www.greenwooddays.co.uk
around car boot fairs for the extra tool, my best friend but for small diameter Facebook: www.facebook.com/
but as I run a business, each extra tool wood, a bowsaw is more than adequate GreenwoodDays
has to earn its place by either speeding for the job.
WWC03 P84-87 TOOLS OF THE TRADEtfJRABSD.indd 84 17/06/2015 09:52

Hand woodworking
WEDGES, AXES AND FROES
Axes for spli ng and shaping. The first five are side axes; a
le -handed at the top; two blue Austrian axes; two Kent pa ern
Clockwise from top: a wooden glut; two metal wedges and side axes – note the curved reground blade, which works be er,
three mallets – note the tapered handle of the bo om one and a simple spli ng axe for cleaving
I split wood with a variety of wedges, an axe and a froe. I use a series of metal
wedges and wooden gluts to cleave longer lengths of timber in half, to protect
my back when moving the logs around. When first collecting tools, it’s best to
make two sets of gluts: while you’re using the first softer green ones, the second
set are seasoning and hardening. Mallets are simple to make: I like to use the
leftover knotty ends of branches. Simply shaped, a gradual taper is stronger
than a sawn handle. I prefer to use a simple hatchet and mallet when cleaving
short pieces; it gets my hand away from the mallet but be aware, the eye of the
axe will slowly widen, loosening the handle. The froe is perfect for cleaving
longer pieces, especially when used in conjunction with a cleaving break. Two froes for cleaving
SIDE AXES CHOPPING BLOCKS
Make as many chopping blocks as possible, nice and stable, each at a different
height so when working billets of different lengths, you keep a straight back.
You tend to notice the effect of not doing this in the second or third decade!
Cover your chopping blocks when not in use – a cardboard box will do – this
prevents dust and stones migrating into the top, which damage the blade of your
beautifully sharp axe. A simple block can also be made from a forked branch.
Three side axes: one le -handed with a

cranked handle
Side axes are used to trim the billet

or perform any rough shaping that’s
needed – mine’s the left-handed one
while the others are the cheaper end
of what’s available. Choose one that
suits your wrist strength and wallet
but while I like having the flat edge,
others are happy with a carving axe or
you can just regrind your axe with a
longer bevel on the cutting side. The Simple chopping blocks made from a slice
cranked handle is designed to keep of ash and three branchwood legs. Make Chopping block made from a forked
your knuckles safe. sure the legs have plenty of splay branch

SHAVING HORSE
Shaving horses are a traditional
coppice worker’s ‘tool of the trade’ and
there are many styles, each adapted
to a specific job. My favourite at the
moment is the one-piece – it’s simple
to transport, though some extra holes
in the swinging arm enable it to cope
with a greater variety of billet size.
The traditional English design makes
adjustment easy. Just by turning the
wedge, you can customise the horse,
maybe a carved seat – experiment with
placement, as the one pictured was
carved too far forward for me. Pegs at
Tradi onal shaving horse. The wedge has three sides of different lengths so can be the end keep your drawknife to hand
turned for adjus ng for different sized billets or leather on the top bar, which stops
the billet slipping and a notch when
shaping awkward pieces.
The top bar of the shave horse can be

modified to suit what parts you are
working. The flat surface and groove
A different shaving horse design with one piece body. It’s good for travelling with a reduce sideways movement of billets and
shorted body and less parts to transport the leather reduces slippage
DRAWKNIVES
Drawknives are used in conjunction with the shavehorse and come in all shapes
and sizes. If you get the chance, it’s worth trying out several, as each works
differently. I sharpen mine with a small back bevel so the flat side has more of
a knife edge. I tend to work with the bevel upwards using a slicing cut, unless I
need to get into a tight radius. The bevel is low as I’m working the wood while
green and soft.
Handle size and shape make a real difference when using them over a
prolonged period. Too big and your hand tires quickly; too small and not enough
grip. I’m not a fan of button handles: they feel awkward but other people love A series of drawknives – note the variety
them. At this point, I feel you have all the tools necessary for making the parts for in size, different shapes of blade and
a ladder-back chair; other tools may speed the process but keep things simple. handles
SPOKESHAVES
To refine the finish I’ll use my spokeshaves; they can remove large amounts of
wood or take the lightest whisper of a shaving leaving a silky smooth finish. Both
metal and wooden work well. The geometry of the wooden shaves is different
with the bevel up giving a lower cutting angle and, theoretically, a cleaner cut.
Use the tool on a skew to further reduce the cutting angle and you’ll get a smooth
finish even on end grain. The top black metal shave is a modern Veritas version
of an old wooden shave; the low angle and thick blade reduces chatter; the green
shave is from Kunz – I love the adjustable throat, but the blades are no good so I
replaced it with a cut down Japanese plane blade, which works a treat.
Four different modern metal-bodied spokeshaves

Hand woodworking
WOODEN SHAVES POLE LATHES

The final set of tools is for the pole-
lathe, which I use for turning all the
little treen I produce as well as the
turned parts of the chairs. Make your
machine fit you and the task in hand
– you’re using your own energy to
power it so fettle until it’s comfortable.
It needs to be the right height, the
right length, and you need to know
if the adjustable poppet is right or
A selec on of wooden shaves – note left-handed.
the orienta on of the blade is different My first lathe was made from an old
to the metal shaves. It results in a lower school bench and is still going strong.
angle and so a smoother cut Any wood will do for most parts – just
make sure it’s stable, either with widely
The wooden shaves, when sharp – splayed legs or pegged to the floor.
which can be tricky – work well and are This stability makes a great difference.
worth searching car boot sales for, just The treadle on this one is adjustable so
watch out for worn soles. The big one you can move the string that powers
at the top is good for rough shaping the lathe without taking the piece of
of spindles while third from the top work off. I favour using a pole rather
is a modern version, a little bulky but than bungee cord if I can help it, as I My main pole-lathe: adjustable head and
produces fine shavings. The bottom find the pole gives a more even ‘spring’ tailstock and a treadle with a swinging
tool is really a scraper with a rounded and if set right more revolutions, so arm, which makes it quick and easy to
profile for producing spindles. therefore more efficient. change where the string of the lathe runs
CHISELS
I use a simple set of four chisels for

99% of my turning – they don’t need
to be specific turning chisels as the low
speed of the lathe reduces the forces
on the tool. To start, a large gouge
for roughing out. On the photo, from
left to right, we have a carving chisel
from Bristol Design; a new gouge from
Ashley Iles; a carpenter’s gouge and my
favourite large bulky car boot sale find,
the first tool I bought which didn’t
have a handle, so the first bit of turning
I ever did was to make a handle while
holding its tang – not recommended,
but it’s served me well. A wide flat
chisel for smoothing, 50mm is a
good size, though I’ve been told the
bodgers would use up to 75mm wide. My main set of pole-lathe chisels, from
Here we have my favourite – a light le to right: heavy-weight gouge, delicate
patternmaker’s bevel-edged chisel, 45mm bevel-edged chisel, standard
a carving chisel, a modern greenwood Four different roughing gouges used to spindle gouge and skew chisel
turning firmer from Ashley Iles and smooth the draw-knived billet. A wide
a simple modern bevel-edged chisel. shallow curve suits me
I like the extra length of the longer
handles, which enables more precise sanding though burnishing with a
adjustment. handful of shavings helps.
Finally, some spindle and skew There are your basic tools for getting
chisels to produce the patterns while from a log to a leg! It takes longer to
turning. All of the tools are sharpened describe than actually turn, with chair
to a much lower bevel angle because bodgers racing to turn a pair of chair
of working the softer green wood. The legs from the log in to the leg in under
blades then cut efficiently and give a eight minutes! And here’s my set of
‘polished’ finished with no need for world champion turning chisels! ■ Four different flat smoothing chisels

Community
Ask the Experts ANTHONY BAILEY

Editor, Woodworking
Crafts Magazine
This is your chance to challenge our Editors and MARK BAKER

Group Editor,
for them to try and successfully answer your GMC woodworking
magazines
comments and queries. This month, Mark Baker
and Anthony Bailey field the questions DEREK JONES
Editor, Furniture
& Cabinetmaking
Magazine
SANDING SCRATCHES
“
★
I have recently bought a table from an auction thinking that it would be a good d
project to refurbish. I liked the design – a pedestal table in a combination of walnut
(Juglans regia) and sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) – but the surface finish STAR
and some of the wood was badly damaged and stained colour-wise, so I set about QUESTIO
stripping it back and re-dyeing it to even up the colour. My problem is that when
N
dyeing it, the sanding scratches show up and I cannot seem to get rid of them.
Grant Williams – by email
”
Mark replies: I too have encountered
this problem on both flat, sculpted and
turned work. I know it is frustrating
when it happens – lots of hard work
and then it is back to square one to try
and rectify it. It is often the scratches
that run across the grain that are the
ones that stand out like a sore thumb.
Here are a few pointers that may help
when sanding work, whether using a
power or hand form of sanding.
Here you can clearly see the sanding Always start at the coarsest grit grade
scratches necessary to remove all the damage • Always start at the coarsest grit grade
necessary to remove all the damage
on the surface being sanded and work
through the grit grades sequentially.
Never be tempted to skip a grade.
The first one used removes the damage
and the second one removes the
scratches left by the previous grit.
So, if you start at 120 grit, then go
to 180, 240, 320, 400 grit and so
on as required.
Worn out 120 grit abrasive is not the Wipe over the surface being sanded
equivalent of 240 grit after each grit grade • Worn out 120 grit abrasive is not
the equivalent of 240 grit – it is blunt
120 grit. Throw the blunt bit away and
use a fresh piece. You can see clearly
whether it is cutting properly.
• It is prudent to wipe over the surface

being sanded – using a tack cloth or
similar – after each grit grade; this will
remove any rogue grains of abrasive
that get dislodged during sanding.
If you are going to paint the work, Always hand-sand the piece ‘with the • If you intend to paint the work, do
do not use too fine a grit grade grain’ using the final grit grade not use too fine a grit grade. Often,
WWC03 P88-89 Q&AtfJRABSD.indd 88 11/06/2015 10:55

Community
The Tool Marketing Company, or TOMACO, as it is known, who sell

variety of tool brands, including COLT, Sharp Edge and Narex Tools,
ell a
★ STA
QUES R
TIO
PRIZE N
Things to do in
August...
It may be August and the holiday
are pleased to be sponsoring the ‘ask the experts’ section in collaboration season but there is no excuse to give
with GMC Publications. up on the woodworking. Is the garden
Each issue’s ‘Star Question Prize’ will receive a Narex six-piece chisel set worth really all sorted? Fences repaired,
£79.95 and the three published questions will receive a 20mm half-round fine cut shed roofs refelted and paint on the
Narex rasp worth £20.95. For more information see www.tomaco.co.uk summerhouse? I’ve just finished all of
mine after a heavy stint of work.
If you have anything to say, write to: The Editor, Woodworking Crafts, 86
High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN. Alternatively, email: anthonyb@
thegmcgroup.com
Simple pergola
By submitting your questions and photos, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines,
How about buying some standard
websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the future. In addition GMC may sell or distribute the treated ‘eased edge’ softwood stock
Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere
to build a simple design of pergola?
It’s easy to cut to length and do some
180 grit is fine enough when using halving joints and use galvanised coach
softwoods. Paint needs a key to lock bolts to assemble the whole thing. Best
into – use too fine a grit and the paint of all, if the weather behaves itself, you
will sit on the surface and not key to can make the whole thing outside in the
the surface properly. sun and have a ‘staycation picnic’ once
it’s all complete. Then, maybe it’s off to
• An old trick is to always hand-sand the garden centre to find some climbing
the piece ‘with the grain’ using the plants, or roses, for instance, which can
final grit grade. be planted ready to make an advance
on the framework next year.
Wipe over the piece with a cloth
• If you are unsure whether you have
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS GRACE

dampened with methylated spirits to everything sanded properly, you can
check if everything is sanded properly always wipe over the piece with a cloth
dampened with methylated spirits. This
will give a temporary slight sheen to
the surface which, with the aid of good
lighting, helps to highlight any errant
sanding scratches.
• Good natural lighting helps no end

in identifying any surface finishing
anomalies. If you do not have natural Chris Grace’s pergola
lighting in your workshop, take the
piece outside and inspect there. Quick boardwalk
Good lighting is essential for checking Natural light is so much better Or, what about a boardwalk made from
for any surface finishing anomalies than man-made lighting sources. old pallets? I’ve made one that lies
across shingle in part of our garden: it’s
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.PRINCESSAUTO.COM
Bad reaction comfortable underfoot being naturally

warm in the sun and it gradually goes a
“
Gloves such silvery colour when left out in the open.
When I work with some as these Simply cut a pallet apart and rebuild
timbers or MDF, my skin cowhide it so you have close boarding on top
seems to go a bit blotchy and ones are ideal
eal of two pallet rails. On earth or grass,
uncomfortable. Am I imagining for protecting
ng timber treatment is essential but on
yourself against
ainst shingle, it’s nothing at all to protect it.
this or is it dermatitis, because
potential skin
ki irritation
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
it goes away later?

Bob Hewings – by email
Anthony replies: You are quite

”
correct, Bob, it is known as contact
that using a barrier skin cream before
working may help the problem. Also,
wear construction work gloves so long
as they aren’t contaminated inside.
dermatitis – something I have suffered Latex gloves get very sweaty and
from in the past although, thankfully, uncomfortable and tear easily, so
it doesn’t affect me much now. Once I don’t recommend them. To be
the source of irritation is removed, honest, barrier cream is probably Simple but effective boardwalk made
the problem goes away. It may be your best option. using old pallets
WWC03 P88-89 Q&AtfJRABSD.indd 89 11/06/2015 10:55

Coming next month in
Step-by step
French
PHOTOGRAPH BY LOUISE BIGGS
polishing ISSUE 4
UPCYCLING &
ON SALE
RESTORATION: 6 AUG
Step-by-step French polishing
POWER
WOODWORKING:
Bandsaw breakdown
– part 2
Four-legged high stool
SMALL SPACE
WOODWORKING:
Bird nesধng boxes
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTHONY BAILEY
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTHONY BAILEY
COMMUNITY:
How woodland trees spread
HAND WOODWORKING:
Turning on a pole-lathe
PLUS: Green woodworking, woodturning, chip carving, kit & tools and more
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Community
PHOTO COURTESY OF AFRICA STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF MY LIFE GRAPHIC / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Old planks refurbished
Design
inspiration
We look at a wide range of
possible shelving options for
you to consider – get inspired! Above: A simple yet stylish design
works perfectly
Right: Why not make a statement

and go for some interes ng shapes?
Below: ‘Compartment’ some

interes ng objects
Below: Definitely different,
yet s ll func onal
PHOTO COURTESY OF OXA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PHOTO COURTESY OF MARIONTXA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PHOTO COURTESY OF RALWEL / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
WWC03 P96 INSPIRATION GALLERYtfABJR.indd 96 11/06/2015 10:57

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Woodworking Crafts #3

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Woodworking Crafts #3

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What tools are featured in the magazine?

What tools are featured in the magazine?

What woodworking techniques are discussed?

What woodworking techniques are discussed?

NEW!

HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING ● TURNING ● RESTORATION ● DIY

Issue 3 August 2015

The new FMM 350Q is truly the best in class and

IFC_001_WWC_003.indd 2 16/06/2015 16:12

FEIN SUPERCUT WOOD EDITION

SuperCut 2.0 Cordless SuperCut

www.fein-uk.co.uk FEIN.UnitedKingdom FEIN_UK

IFC_001_WWC_003.indd 3 16/06/2015 16:12

In the August issue...

WWC03 P2-3 CONTENTS & LEADERtfABJRSD.indd 2 17/06/2015 09:16

51 Anthony Bailey, Editor

Woodworking Crafts issue 03 3

WWC03 P2-3 CONTENTS & LEADERtfABJRSD.indd 3 11/06/2015 09:36

What you will need:

2 Measure and mark the post to give

3 Once cut to length, mark the centre

4 Using a drill – a powered hand-

inserts you are using – drill a hole to

5 Once the holes are drilled, chamfer

Woodworking Crafts issue 03 5

WWC03 P4-6 TRIO OF TEALIGHT HOLDERStfABJRSD.indd 5 11/06/2015 09:38

6 Now to open up the grain. This

7 Once brushed, seal the wood with

8 Using a stiff brush, rub in the

9 Once the grain has been filled, let

10 Soak the cloth with oil, squeeze

11 After cleaning off the excess, the

12 Self-adhesive felt – although

13 If all has gone well, you will

WWC03 P4-6 TRIO OF TEALIGHT HOLDERStfABJRSD.indd 6 11/06/2015 09:39

When you buy 6+ PACK

Gorilla Glue - 250ml

CALL 0808 168 28 28 Solid Drawn Hinge

0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.com FIND US ON

007_WWC_003.indd 7 11/06/2015 14:44

Woodland ways Trees from

leaves fully emerge. The tallest common lime stands at

Common lime variability

The most common lime trees planted from the 17th

Parkland with classic lime

pendulous branches – or are they roots? Some are coppiced,

Woodworking Crafts issue 03 9

WWC03 P8-9 WOODLAND WAYStfABJRSD.indd 9 11/06/2015 09:40

Basic hand-cut joints

WWC03 P10-13 BEGINNERS GUIDE-BUTT JOINTStfJRABSD.indd 10 11/06/2015 09:41

What you will need:

1 First, all the stock must be prepared

Woodworking Crafts issue 03 11

WWC03 P10-13 BEGINNERS GUIDE-BUTT JOINTStfJRABSD.indd 11 11/06/2015 09:41

half the thickness of the stock and mark

4 Then, from the face side, you can

5 Place your cross cut saw in the

to the centreline, paying particular

Cross half-lap joint

1 Let’s look at another half-lap joint,