p.

22
L E ASE S
O
I
B B
M OOL
Special Shop Storage Issue
T

Vol. 13 www.ShopNotes.com Issue 77

A Publication of August Home Publishing

 E D I T O R ' S N O T E

Issue 77

PUBLISHER
EDITOR
Sept./October 2004

Donald B. Peschke
Terry J. Strohman
®

Cutoffs
SENIOR EDITORS

ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Bryan Nelson
Vincent Ancona
Phil Huber
A while back, Vince Ancona
talked to me about an idea he
had. He wanted to do an article on
Adolph is the father of Don Peschke,
founder and publisher of ShopNotes.
With all this knowledge at our fin-
ASSISTANT EDITOR Ron Johnson the best way to get materials home gertips, you’d think that coming up
ART DIRECTOR Cary Christensen from the lumberyard or home with an article on knot-tying would
SR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jamie Downing center. Specifically, how to safely and be a piece of cake. But it quickly
SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR Roger Reiland securely tie down a load of lumber. became obvious that we had more
ILLUSTRATORS David Kallemyn Now someone once told me that information on knots than we had
Peter J. Larson “if you can’t tie a good knot — tie a space for in the issue. So we nar-
ELEC. IMAGE SPECIALIST Allan Ruhnke lot of them.” Unfortunately, that rowed the field down to three basic
saying pretty much sums up my knots that would handle most of
CREATIVE RESOURCES: Creative Director: Ted Kralicek • Sr.
Project Designers: Ken Munkel, Kent Welsh, Ryan Mimick, Chris Fitch knot-tying skills. So naturally, I was your tie-down needs.
• Shop Craftsmen: Steve Curtis, Steve Johnson • Sr. Photographer:
Crayola England • Photo Intern: Julia Adkisson
eager to learn more. A short time ago, that would have
SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS: Corp. V.P.: Douglas L. Hicks • Art Dir.:
As it turned out, we didn’t have to been the end of the story. But now,
Douglas A. Flint • Sr. Graphic Designer: Chris Glowacki • Graphic look far to find some qualified we have the advantage of being able
Designer: Lindsay Rees • Videographer: Mark Hayes, Jr. • Sr. Editor:
Craig Ruegsegger • Assoc. Editor: Joel A. Hess advice. Jamie Downing, our senior to give you even more information
CIRCULATION: Circ. Oper. Director: Sandy Baum • Circ. Marketing graphic designer, has been an avid online. Visit our website and you’ll
Dir.: Wayde J. Klingbeil • Strategic Business Analysts: Kris
Schlemmer, Paula M. DeMatteis • Circ. Marketing Analyst: Patrick
sailor for years. So he really knows not only find videos on how to tie the
Walsh • Renewal Mgr.: Paige Rogers • Circ. Marketing Assoc.: his way around a piece of rope. three knots from this issue, but
Christine Forret • Circ. Fulfillment Mgr.: Stephanie Forinash • Sr.
Graphic Designers: Robin Friend, Randy Shebek Our other knot-tying expert, you’ll also learn how to tie an extra
CORPORATE SERVICES: V.P. of Finance: Mary R. Scheve • Adolph Peschke, wrote the book on knot that isn’t shown in the article.
Controller: Craig Stille • Dir. Financial Analysis: Lesia Smith • Sr.
Acct.: Laura J. Thomas • Accts. Payable: Mary J. Schultz • Accts.
knots — literally. Adolph wrote the New Face – Allan Ruhnke has
Receivable: Margo Petrus • Prod. Dir.: George Chmielarz • IT Manager: Boy Scout Handbook on Pioneering, joined us as a electronic image spe-
Brian VanHeuverswyn • Electronic Pub. Dir.: Douglas M. Lidster • Sys.
Admin.: Cris Schwanebeck • P.C. Maint. Tech.: Robert D. Cook • Assoc. which covers knots, lashings, and dif- cialist. That’s really just a fancy way
Style Dir.: Rebecca Cunningham • New Media Mgr.: Gordon C. Gaippe •
Multimedia Art Dir.: Eugene Pedersen • Web Server Admin.: Carol
ferent ways to use them to build struc- of saying he’s responsible for
Schoeppler • Web Content Mgr.: David Briggs • Multi-media Designer: tures. If the name sounds a bit making all the photographs in the
Kara Blessing • Web Prod.: Terry Walker • Web Pub. Asst..: Justin Gruca
• Research Coord.: Nicholas A. Jaeger • Prof. Dev. Dir.: Michal Sigel • familiar, there’s a good reason — magazine look their absolute best.
Benefits Specialist: Jennifer Westover • Hiring Specialist: Jessica Tesar
• Facilities Mgr.: Kurt Johnson • Office Manager: Jeanne Johnson •
Admin. Asst.: Brandi Hammond • Mail Room Clerk: Lou Webber

ShopNotes® (ISSN 1062-9696) is published bimonthly (Jan., March,

May, July, Sept., Nov.) by August Home Publishing, 2200 Grand, Des Moines,
IA 50312.
ShopNotes® is a registered trademark of August Home Publishing
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2 ShopNotes No. 77
 I S S U E S E V E N T Y - S E V E N

Contents
Features
Sliding-Door Shop Cabinet ————————— 6
You’ll be amazed at all the tools and supplies you can store
inside (and outside) this slim cabinet.
Shop Cabinet page 6
Table Saw Tune-Up ——————————————— 12
Now’s a good time to take a look “under the hood” and get
your table saw in top shape. Our step-by-step process will
have it running at peak performance in no time.

Hi-Tech Tune-Up Tools ———————————— 17

Want to add a new dimension to your table saw tune-up? We
take a look at a few hi-tech products to handle the task.

Fold-Away Tool Stand————————————— 18

Now you see it, now you don’t. Build a rock-solid tool stand
that folds out of the way in seconds.

Making Tools Move ——————————————— 22

Mounting your power tools on mobile bases can be a great Table Saw Tune-Up page 12
solution for small shops. We’ll tell you what to look for and
give you the rundown on a number of popular models.

Under-Stair Storage ————————————— 26

Make the most of the space beneath your stairs with this
easy-to-build, adjustable storage system.

Router Bit Rack ————————————————— 30

Organize your router bits and accessories in an afternoon
with this simple wall rack.

Departments
Under-Stair Storage page 26
Readers’ Tips —————————————————————— 4
Shop-tested tips to solve common woodworking problems.

Shop Talk————————————————————— 32
These three simple knots will get your next lumber purchase
home safely, without a lot of fuss.

Tool Chest ———————————————————— 34

Tired of pegboard hooks that won’t stay put? Learn more
about hooks that keep tools in their place.

Sources —————————————————————— 35
Mail-order sources and supplies to help you complete the
projects featured in this issue. Router Bit Rack page 30

www.ShopNotes.com 3
 T I P S & T E C H N I Q U E S

Readers’ Tips
Beam Compass —————————————————————————————

n I needed to lay out some large cir- in place by drilling a second 1/4" hole the pivot for the compass as shown
cles for a project recently. And perpendicular to the first to fit a bolt in the drawing and photo below. The
knowing how important accuracy is and wing nut (illustration below). bottom of the dowel is sanded flat to
when making large circles, I built a The compass is adjusted by a accommodate the nail head and pre-
beam compass to meet my needs. 4"–long piece of 1/2"-dia PVC pipe vent dowel rotation.
This compass is simple, easy to use, drilled and tapped to accept a 5/16"- Now, just slide the dowel in place
and changing circle size is as easy as dia. nylon bolt. The bolt holds the and adjust it to the radius you want
simply sliding the dowel. dowel at the desired length. and you’re ready to lay out a circle.
The arm is made from a four foot A 3d nail inserted in a pre-drilled Jeff Streba
length of 5/8"-dia. dowel rod with a hole in the bottom of the PVC acts as Salt Lake City, Utah
slot and 1/4" hole drilled in one end to
hold a pencil. The pencil is clamped

Lathe Tool Rack ——————————————

n To keep my turning tools close at of 1/4" plywood to the rack. This let
hand, I built a simple tool rack to me clamp the rack to the lathe leg as
attach to my lathe. Now my lathe shown in the illustration on the left.
tools are in easy reach and I don’t Five 11/8"-dia. holes were drilled
have to go hunting all over my shop for my turning tools. But you may
whenever I want to use them. want to vary the size and number of
Another feature I like is that the holes to fit your specific tools.
ends of the tools stick out the back The holes are drilled at an angle of
and are readily visible. This makes it 30° so the tools won’t vibrate out of
easy to identify the turning tool I the holes when the lathe runs.
need when changing tools. The tool rack can be bolted to the
The rack is simply made out of a leg or clamped in place if you want to
piece of 2" x 2" stock cut to length move it around.
(depending on the number of tools Gordon Hildebrant
you have). I then glued a wider piece North Java, New York

4 ShopNotes No. 77
 T I P S & T E C H N I Q U E S

Quick Tips ———————————————————————————————————

Thurston Caswell
of North Port, FL
punches holes in
his can and uses a
Charles Mak of
Calgary, Alberta
Free Tips
wire with 90° end ONT
ON HE W
THE EB
WEB
recycles magnets he
bends to wipe
gets from advertisers Get more wood-
excess finish off
and posts them as working tips free.
his brush.
reminder notes Visit us on the Web at
throughout his ShopNotes.com
shop.
Sign up to receive
Kevin Coulson of Emporia, KS a free shop tip by
reminds us that oily steel wool can email every week.
be a fire hazard and recommends
storing it safely in resealable bags
to prevent oxidation.

Drill Press Storage Rack ———————————————————

n Whenever I used my drill press, I spent a lot of time
hunting for the items I needed. So I built a display-type
storage rack to keep everything organized.
The rack is made from a piece of plywood about 18"
long. The top and bottom are beveled at 45°. Legs are
attached to the back so it will sit flat on a table or shelf
and give the display stablility. I then drilled holes and
added dowels to hold various sanding attachments,
chuck keys, and other drill press accessories.
Edward Reis
Phoenix, Arizona

Clip-On Lamp Holder —————————————————————————

n I like the extra dowels in the shelf fit inside the clip
light that a clip-on bends to prevent the lamp from
lamp gives when I sliding off the holder when the light
work. The problem position is adjusted.
is there’s never any Guy Gerrard
place to attach one of Orlando, Florida
these lamps.
To solve this
problem, I devised a Send in Your Tips
holder for my shop that can be To share your original tips and solu-
placed almost anywhere. This holder tions to problems you’ve faced, send
allows the lamp clip to grip securely them to: ShopNotes, Attn.: Readers’
so I can have constant and stable Tips, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA
lighting at all times. 50312. (Or if it’s easier, FAX them to us
The holder is made of 3/4" ply- at: 515-282-6741.)
wood. A dado in the mounting plate We’ll pay up to $200 depending on
captures a small shelf as you can see the published length. Please include a
in the photo at left. daytime phone number so we can call
The clip part of the lamp tightly you if we have any questions.
grips the plywood shelf. Through

www.ShopNotes.com 5
Sliding-Door
Shop
Cabinet
Sliding doors and a flexible design allow you
to pack a lot of tools into little space.

6 ShopNotes No. 77
 F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

To download
a free cutting
diagram for
the Storage Cabinet, go to:
www.ShopNotes.com

Materials
Case
A Top/Bottom (2) 3/ x 43/4 - 801/4
4
B Sides (2) 3/ x 51/2 - 39 7/8
4
C Dividers (2) 3/ x 31/2 - 37 5/8
4
D Case Back (1) 385/8 x 80 1/4 - 1/4 Pegboard
E Back Cleats (2) 3/ x 31/ - 80 1/
4 2 4
F Face Frame Rails (2) 3/ x 11/ - 77 3/
4 2 4
G Face Frame Stiles (2) 3/ x 11/ - 397/
4 2 8
H Side Shelves (6) 3/ x 31/ - 213/
4 2 4
I Center Shelves (3) 3/ x 31/ - 341/
4 2 4

Doors Hardware
J Door Stiles (4) 3/ x 21/2 - 37
4
K Door Rails (4) 3/ x 23/4 - 18
4
L Door Panels (2) 18 x 32 - 1/4 Pegboard • (46) #8 x 11/2" Fh Woodscrews
M Side Door Stops (2) 3/ x 3/ - 213/ • (16) #8 x 5/8" Fh Woodscrews
4 4 4
N Center Door Stop (1) 3/ x 3/ - 341/ • (4) Sliding Screen Door Rollers w/screws
4 4 4 1/ " x 3/ " Aluminum Bar (791/ " long)
• (1) 8 4 4
Bin Rack • (2) 4" Drawer Pulls w/Screws
O Top/Bottom (2) 3/ x 51/ - 79 3/ • (36) Shelf Pins
4 2 4
P Ends (2) 3/ x 51/ - 51/ • (4) #8 x 1" Rh Woodscrews
4 2 2
Q Dividers (15) 3/ x 51/ - 41/ • (4) 1"-dia. Fender Washers
4 2 2
R Stops (16) 1/ x 41/ - 1/ Pegboard • (10) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
2 4 4
S Spacer (1) 3/ x 1 - 791/ • (16) 41/8" x 53/8" Plastic Storage Bins
4 4

www.ShopNotes.com 7
 a. b.
F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

Case ————————————————————————————————————————
FIGURE
1

c.

d.
One of the objections to pegboard of sliding pegboard doors. So you the case. This has to do with how the
that I hear over and over again is that end up with nearly double the pegboard back and cleats are
it doesn’t hold very many tools for amount of storage area without attached to the case. (I’ll explain
the amount of wall space that it takes taking up any additional wall space. more about that later.) For now,
up. But this pegboard storage Case – To build the cabinet, I just cut the pieces to the dimen-
project is different. Instead of just a started with the case. The main sions shown. Then you can cut the
flat pegboard panel mounted to the parts of the case — the top, rabbets and dadoes in the sides
wall, this project is a shallow cabinet. bottom, and sides — are all cut that will hold the top and bottom of
The back of the cabinet is made with from 1x6’s. If you take a look at the case (Figures 1 and 1a).
pegboard for hanging tools. But in Figure 1b, you’ll notice that the sides The pegboard panel that will
front of this are shelves and a couple are wider than the top and bottom of serve as the back of the case fits into
a rabbeted opening. But in order to
2 a.
create some clearance behind the
pegboard for the pegboard hooks,
the back is set in about 3/4" from the
wall. To do this, you’ll need to make
the rabbets on the sides of the case
wider than the rabbets on the case
top and bottom. Take a look at
Figures 1b, 1c, and 1d to see what
I’m talking about.
Before you can assemble the case,
b. there are a few details to take care of.
First, I drilled some holes on the
inside face of the case sides for some
shelf pins. Then I cut a kerf near the
front edge of the case bottom for a
piece of aluminum that will be added
later (Figure 1d). This will serve as
the “track” for the sliding door.

8 ShopNotes No. 77
 F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

FIGURE
Finally, I drilled some counter-
sunk screw holes in the case top and
3
bottom for the screws that will be
used to attach the sides and dividers
of the case. It’s easier to drill these
holes on a drill press now, before
assembling the case.
Assembly – The case is assem-
bled with glue and some screws.
Just make sure to keep the front
edges of the top, bottom, and sides
of the case flush as you clamp
everything together. a.
Dividers – With the outer frame
of the case complete, you can now
add a couple of dividers. These are
ripped to width and then cut to fit
between the top and bottom of the
case. But before they’re glued and
screwed into place, a double row of
shelf pin holes is drilled in each
b.
divider, just as you see in Figure 1.
Back & Cleats – The back is
just a piece of 1/4" pegboard, cut to
fit in the rabbeted opening in the
back of the frame. It gets held in
place with a few screws. Then a
pair of cleats are screwed to the
back of the case over the pegboard
— one at the top and one at the strip fit snug in the kerf, but if yours could be. The rails and stiles for the
bottom. These help strengthen the is a little loose, you may want to use face frame are simply cut to size and
cabinet as well as provide support some epoxy to hold it in place. glued in place to the front edges of
when screwing it to the wall. Face Frame – The last two steps the case. Then the shelves are cut to
With the back in place, I cut a strip to complete the case are to add the width and length. If you take a look
of aluminum to fit in the kerf in the face frame and shelves. These are at Figure 3, you’ll notice that there
bottom of the case. My aluminum both about as straightforward as are two different shelf lengths.

Buying Pegboard
Pegboard (also called perf- In addition to different thick-
board) is really nothing more nesses, there are also different
than hardboard with holes grades of pegboard. I prefer
drilled in it. But all pegboard service-tempered pegboard. It’s
isn’t created equal. (Something harder and more durable than
you’ll quickly discover when you standard pegboard. The only
start shopping for it.) trouble is finding it — you may
Thickness – You can find peg- have to go to a lumberyard
board in 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" thick- or have it ordered.
nesses. Both the 3/16" and 1/4" peg-
board have 1/4"-dia. holes, but the
thicker pegboard will be much
{ Shelf Pins. Removable shelf stronger, making it a better
pins are used to support the choice for shop projects like the
adjustable shelves inside the storage cabinet.
pegboard storage cabinet.

www.ShopNotes.com 9
Sliding Doors ——
The sliding doors are what really
make this cabinet special. Instead of
simply sliding in a groove, these { W a s h e r . Loosely
doors glide on roller mechanisms. mounted fender wash-
Mounted into the bottom edge of ers serve as bearings
each door are two sliding screen at the top of the door.
door rollers (see lower inset photo at
right). These rollers work so
smoothly that you can roll the doors
along the track with one finger, even
when they’re loaded up with tools.
Each door is just a wood frame
with a pegboard panel, as you can
see in Figure 4. So I started by cut-
ting the door rails and stiles to size.
The rollers fit into a deep groove
that is cut in the bottom edge of the
lower door rail before the door is { Rollers. Screen door
assembled (Figure 4b). You’ll also rollers allow the peg-
need to cut a shallow groove in the board doors to glide
end of each door stile to allow the effortlessly on the track.
door to clear the aluminum track.
Then you can glue up the doors added some door stops to the inside Washers – To keep the doors
and install the rollers. of the case (Figure 5). To make sure from rattling inside the case, I
Door Stops – Before you can that the doors would have plenty of attached a couple of 1"-dia. fender
install the doors in the case, there clearance, I positioned the stops 1" washers to the top edge of each door,
are a couple of details to take care of. away from the face frame. This cre- like you see in the top inset photo
To support the top of each door, I ates a channel to help guide the door. above. But I didn’t tighten the
screws all the way down. This allows
FIGURE
4 the washers to spin freely, so they act
as roller bearings inside the channel.
After adding a handle to each
door, all you have to do is slip the
doors into the channel and over the
aluminum track, see photo above.

5
a.

a.

b.
10 ShopNotes No. 77
 Optional
Hardware
Bin Rack
T he pegboard storage cabinet
is great for tools and supplies.
But if you want to get even more
use out of the cabinet, you can build
this optional hardware bin.
Mounted to the underside of the
cabinet, the bin rack is just a series
of cubby holes that are sized to
hold plastic storage bins.
To make the bin rack, start by
cutting the top and bottom to size.
Then cut a series of evenly spaced
dadoes on the inside face of each
piece to hold the dividers (see
detail ‘a’). The ends of the bin
rack are rabbeted to hold the top
and bottom. And the dividers are
cut to fit in the dadoes.
Before assembling the rack, I cut
a kerf near the back edge of the
glue them into the kerf all along
the back of the rack.
a.
bottom for some hardboard stops Before you can mount the bin
that will be added later. (The loca- rack to the storage cabinet, you’ll
tion of this kerf will depend on the need to add a strip of wood to the
size of the plastic storage bins that top of the rack to act as a spacer
you’re going to be using.) between the rack and the recessed
Stops – Once the rack is bottom of the cabinet. Once this is
assembled, you can cut some bin done, the rack can be attached to
stops out of 1/4" pegboard and the cabinet with woodscrews.

b.

Hardware Storage. This optional storage

unit mounts to the bottom of the cabinet and
holds up to sixteen plastic hardware storage bins.

www.ShopNotes.com 11
 I N T H E S H O P

9-Step Table Saw

Tune-Up

An afternoon is
all it takes
to tune-up your
saw for peak
per formance and
precision results.

1. Start with a Good Scrub

L ike most things with moving
parts, a table saw requires
periodic maintenance and upkeep One of the most important things you
to keep it running at peak perform- can do to keep your table saw in top
ance. Unfortunately, it’s all too shape is a simple cleaning once a
easy to put off a tune-up to the month. If sawdust, pitch, and resin are
point where your cuts aren’t accu- allowed to build up inside the cabinet,
rate or the controls become stiff it won’t be too long before worm gears
and stubborn to adjust. are gummed up and cranks become
But there is an upside. Keeping difficult to operate. This can be a con-
your table saw clean, well-adjusted, stant source of frustration any time
and lubricated doesn’t take all that you try to adjust the saw blade.
much effort, time, or a lot of spe- To start the process, the first
cialized tools. As a matter of fact, thing to do is unplug your saw and
you really don’t need much more then use an air compressor to blow
than what you see in the photo
above. In a short afternoon, you > Keep It Clean. Common shop
can have your table saw running solvents are all you’ll need to clean
great, with smooth and precise cuts off the caked-on pitch and resin
to show for your efforts. that builds up inside a table saw.

12 ShopNotes No. 77
 I N T H E S H O P

off sawdust trapped around the trun- thinner which can strip the paint off
nion area, below the table top, and the metal. And keep the solvent
inside the cabinet. Then once that’s away from any bearings. The solvent
complete, you can go right to work can penetrate the bearings and dis-
on the trunnion with a toothbrush solve the lubricants inside, short-
and solvent to scrub away the pitch ening the life of the bearings.
and resin build-up (photo at right). If you’re working a really stubborn
Just about any shop solvent will area, you may find it necessary to use
work here (see bottom of preceding a brush to saturate the area with sol-
page). Just be sure to avoid lacquer vent and then let it set for a while (left
photo). And if the build-up is really dif-
ficult to remove, you can try to break
it free with a brass or wire brush.
With the inside of the saw all
cleaned up, this is a good time to add
some lubrication. I like to use a dry
lubricant like the spray version shown The most effective way to deal with { Brush It Away.
in the main photo. It’s less likely to this is to use a fine grit (400 - 600) Heat the handle of a
attract dust and chips. sandpaper or abrasive pads. I like to toothbrush and bend
At this point, you can turn your use mineral spirits as a lubricant and it an angle to get at
attention to the top of the table saw. “wet sand” any area with rust on it. hard to reach areas.
Although it’s not likely to be caked Once all the rust is removed, apply
with pitch and resin, it can have a dif- a coat of paste wax to the top of the
ferent kind of build-up — rust. table. And while you’re at it, it doesn’t
hurt to wax the fence rails, and fence
< Sweep Up. Use a bristle brush to face. You’ll notice the difference when
soak pitch and resin build-up with adjusting the position of the fence or
solvent and help loosen it up. sliding a workpiece along its face.

2. Adjust Blade Raising & Tilt Mechanisms

A couple of the most important parts In many saws, the worm gear is
of the table saw are the mechanisms mounted slightly off-center on the
that allow you to adjust the height or end of a shaft that runs through a WORM GEAR
angle of the blade. sleeve. This allows you to loosen the
Have you noticed that the crank locking nuts on the sleeve and adjust ECCENTRIC SHAFT
turns a little bit (or maybe a lot) the position of the worm gear and fit
before the blade starts to raise? Or the cogged wheels more tightly.
the angle of cut changes slightly Once that’s complete, it’s just a
after a few cuts? This extra matter of retightening the locking
“freeplay” is commonly called back- nuts to hold the sleeve in place. Then
lash and it’s something you’ll want be sure to double-check any adjust-
to take care of to improve the accu- ments by running the blade height
racy of the cuts you make. and tilt mechanisms through their LOCKING
The nice thing is, most contractor full range of motion to check for any NUT
and cabinet saws have a means to backlash. You shouldn’t feel any
adjust the mechanisms and remove looseness anywhere in that range.
the backlash. It’s best to check your As you adjust each of the mecha-
owner’s manual to verify the correct nisms, you’ll want to be sure you
procedure for your saw. But in most don’t make things too tight. If the
cases, this requires a little gears are too tight, it will be hard to
“tweaking” of the fit between the adjust the blade. Plus, you’ll put { Backlash. You can take out the
worm gears and cogged “wheels” extra wear and tear on your saw — backlash in the blade raising and
inside the saw. You can see what this and that will just cause more prob- tilting mechanisms by simply adjusting
looks like in the photo at right. lems down the road. the worm gears inside the saw.

www.ShopNotes.com 13
 I N T H E S H O P

3. Checking for Runout

There are a number of things that allow you to position the dial indi-
play into how smooth a table saw cator exactly where you need it.
runs. But if the arbor, flange, and With the indicator resting on the
blade exhibit any “wobble,” or arbor, rotate the shaft (upper photo).
runout, due to misalignment or Any runout will show up as move-
looseness, all the tuning in the world ment on the indicator. In a similar
won’t make a lot of difference. manner, you can position the indicator
You can do a “rough” check of the to check the flange (lower photo).
arbor by pulling up and down on the So what’s too much runout? Since
shaft, and then moving it in and out. any runout here will translate into
You shouldn’t feel any play. And even more at the blade, it can affect
rotating the shaft by hand should be the quality of the cut. So I don’t like to
smooth and quiet. see anything over 0.001" on the arbor
For a more accurate check of the or 0.003" on the flange. Anything
arbor, you can use a dial indicator more could be a sign of a bent arbor or
and a shop-made holder, like you see bad bearings — something you can’t
in the upper photo at right. The take care of with a simple tune-up.
holder is nothing more than a couple If you want to minimize any blade { Read the Runout. A dial indicator
pieces of hardwood held together runout you do have, be sure to check is an accurate method for checking
with a carriage bolt and knob. A hole out a couple of the after-market the runout of the table saw arbor
and bolt at the end of the assembly accessories shown on page 17. (top) or flange (bottom).

4. Blade & Miter Slot Alignment

the gauge back so the plunger con- much. The bolts should be just loose
tacts the blade at the ‘X’ once again. enough so you can tap the rear trun-
Note: Rotating the blade ensures nion into alignment with a piece of
that any small runout in the saw scrap and a mallet (photo below).
won’t affect the reading. But the trunnion can move as you
If the reading remains the same, retighten the bolts. So it’s always a
the blade is aligned. If it doesn’t, good idea to recheck the blade align-
you’ll need to align the saw blade. ment as you did before to make sure
For most saws, this means adjusting the adjustment is correct.
the trunnions. (Cabinet saws are Sometimes, no matter how hard
adjusted by shifting the table.) you try to shift things into alignment,
Adjust Trunnions – The front it just doesn’t work. If that’s the case,
and rear trunnions are bolted to the you might want to check out the
underside of the table and support trunnion alignment kit on page 17.
the carriage and arbor assembly.
Adjusting them is simply a matter of } A Little Tap. To align the blade with
loosening the bolts that hold them in the miter slot, loosen the trunnion bolts
place and shifting them to bring the and tap the trunnion into alignment.
No matter how well your saw checks saw blade into alignment.
out for runout, it still won’t make a But first, it helps to remove the
smooth cut if the saw blade isn’t aligned belt and motor. Besides reducing the
parallel to the miter gauge slots. excess weight, this also makes it
To check this, start by marking an easier to reach the trunnion bolts.
‘X’ on the saw blade. Next, position Now you’re ready to adjust the
the dial indicator so the tip of the trunnions. The trick here is to just
spring-loaded shaft contacts the blade loosen the bolts. And I find it best to
on the ‘X,’ as in the photo above. leave one of the front bolts slightly
After “zeroing out” the dial indi- snug. This way, it acts as a pivot point
cator, rotate the saw blade and slide and keeps things from moving too

14 ShopNotes No. 77
 I N T H E S H O P

5. Align the Motor & Pulleys

Now that the blade is aligned, you can reinstall the
motor and belt. And to make sure your saw runs
smooth and vibration-free, you’ll want to check the
alignment of the motor and arbor pulleys.
I did this by resting a straightedge against the
outside faces of the two pulleys (see photo). What
you want is for the straightedge to rest flush against
each pulley. If it doesn’t, you can bring them into
alignment by shifting the pulleys on the shafts, or
by readjusting the motor on its mounting plate.
Finally, give the drive belt a quick check. If it’s
worn, cracked, or frayed, you might want to con-
sider upgrading to a link-belt and a set of machined
pulleys (refer to page 17).

6. Keep it on the Level

Aligning the motor and arbor pulleys the insert, as you can see at right. To
completes the inside work. The next check your adjustment, a straight-
step is to start working on the outside edge placed across the saw table
by “aligning” the entire working sur- should lie flat against the insert.
face of the table saw. This is just a mat- Extension Wings – Leveling the
ter of leveling the throat insert and extensions wings isn’t all that dif-
extension wings to the saw table. ferent than adjusting the insert — all
Insert – To prevent the work- you need is a longer straightedge.
piece from catching as you make a This time, lay the straightedge so
cut, the insert needs to sit flush with is spans the table and wings (see
the saw table. In addition, it should photo). If either wing needs adjust-
be stable so it doesn’t rock back and ment, loosen the bolts underneath, { Level It. With
forth as a workpiece slides over it. shift the wings, and then retighten common shop
On most saws this adjustment is the bolts. Be sure to recheck the straightedges, you
made using four set screws located in wings after making any adjustment. can easily level the
extension wing and
saw blade insert.
7. Set the Stops
Aligning the saw blade is only one the top of the saw table. So all you
part of getting an accurate cut. To need is an Allen wrench to make this
make precise cuts at common angles, simple adjustment.
like 45° and 90°, most saws have built- Start by raising the blade to full
in stops. The problem is, these stops height. Then use a drafting triangle to
can move out of adjustment over time. check and set the blade
Making Adjustments – There to 90°. Finally, adjust the
are several different methods for set screw to match that
adjusting the stops depending on the setting (see photo).
table saw model. So you’ll need to Once you’ve set the
check the manual for your saw. stop, make a quick
One of the more common check by tilting the saw
methods uses set screws tapped into blade and then returning
it to 90°. For the 45°
< Setting Stops. A drafting triangle stop, simply repeat the
can be used for checking the 90° process, as shown in the
(left) and 45° (right photo) settings. photo at right.

www.ShopNotes.com 15
 I N T H E S H O P

8. Miter Gauge & Rip Fence Check

Rip Fence – Just like the miter below. Here again, the distance from
gauge, the rip fence needs to be the face of the fence to the miter slot
aligned with the saw blade to accu- should be the same all along the
rately rip a board to width. If it isn’t, a fence. If it isn’t, you’ll need to make
number of things can occur. an adjustment. For specific instruc-
For starters, you’ll end up cutting tions, it’s best to consult the owner’s
a wider kerf than necessary. This manual for your table saw.
puts a heavier load on the motor and The rip fence also needs to be
requires more effort to push a work- square to the top of the saw table. A
piece through the saw blade. It can plastic triangle makes quick work of
Now that the stops are also produce a rough or burnt edge, this check (inset photo below).
adjusted, you can focus on or even result in kickback.
tuning up the two most To check the alignment of the
impor tant accessories fence, I used my shop-made holder
you’ll use with your table and a dial indicator, as in the photo
saw — the miter gauge
and rip fence.
{ Punch in the Fit. Miter Gauge – To make accu-
To tighten up a rate crosscuts, your miter gauge
loose miter gauge, needs to be properly aligned.
use a punch to add The first thing to check is whether
a few “dimples” to the miter gauge fits in the slot without
the edge of the any play. To tighten up a loose fit,
miter gauge bar. check out the insert photo at left.
Once you have it sliding smoothly
back and forth, use a drafting triangle
to set the stops for the 45° and 90°
settings on the miter gauge (main
photo above). Just align the head with
the saw blade, and then adjust the
stops on the miter gauge to match.

9. Adjust Splitter, Pawls, and Guard

All that’s left at this point in the table Next, check that the blade guard
saw tune-up is to check and adjust rides up smoothly over the workpiece
the table saw splitter, pawls, and as it moves past the blade. And finally,
blade guard — a safety must. to prevent kickback, verify that the
Because the splitter, pawls, and pawls “grab” the workpiece as you try
guard help prevent mishaps, it’s to pull it back. You can sharpen the
important to keep these items teeth for a better “grab.”
working properly all the time.
To make sure the workpiece
doesn’t catch the edge of the splitter
as you make a cut, it needs to be
aligned with the saw blade. A
straightedge makes it easy to check
the alignment (left photo). And
while you’re at it, make sure that
the splitter is perpendicular to the
saw table (right photo). Then
tighten all the mounting bolts and
double-check everything.

16 ShopNotes No. 77
 Hi-Tech
Tune-Up
Tools
Y ou can bring your table saw to
peak performance by following
the steps on the preceding pages.
But there are some “hi-tech” prod-
ucts that can make the whole
process easier and more accurate.
(For sources of the products men-
tioned below, refer to page 35.)
Dial Indicator Kit – One of the
first I would recommend is the Basic
A-Line-It kit from In-Line Industries. It’s tion and improve the cut (right photo). But
shown in the photo at right. The kit consists of there is one drawback to using either the
a dial indicator and a pair of machined alu- truing disc or a blade stabilizer. Both will
minum bars that screw together. One bar fits reduce the depth of cut of the saw blade.
the miter slot and can be adjusted for a snug fit. Belt & Pulleys – You can also minimize
The cross bar holds the indicator at whatever vibration by replacing your belt and pulleys
position you need it. They also make a more with a link belt and machined pulleys, as { Zero Out the Runout. With this saw blade
advanced kit with a few more accessories. shown below. To determine if a kit is available truing disc, you can reduce the runout of
Truing Disc – If your checks should indi- for your saw, contact In-Line Industries. your table saw to a minimum.
cate a runout problem, there is a product There’s one last “hi-tech” product you’ll
available that will allow you to minimize it. definitely want to look at if you’re having
And that’s a truing disc by Veritas (see inset). problems aligning your trunnions. It’s called
The truing disc allows you to “tweak” the saw PALS (lower right photo). PALS stands for
blade and correct the runout by tightening a Precision Alignment and Locking System.
series of set screws against the saw blade. Attached to the rear trunnion, PALS makes it
Dampener – Sometimes vibration from a simple task to align the trunnion to your
the motor or belt can cause a rough cut. saw blade and then lock it in place so the
Forrest makes blade stiffeners in three sizes trunnion can’t move. Not bad for a $20
(4", 5", and 6") that help dampen the vibra- product (again from In-Line Industries).

< Belts & Pulleys. A link

belt and machined { Stiffener. Although it reduces the depth
pulleys will make your saw of cut, a blade stiffener is an inexpensive
run smoother. way to reduce saw blade vibration.

{ Trunnion Alignment. For easy and precise

trunnion alignment, nothing beats the Precision
Alignment and Locking System (PALS).

www.ShopNotes.com 17
 Fold-Away

Tool Stand

This adjustable,
rock-solid tool plat-
form folds flat to
the wall when you
need a little extra
shop space.

M y shop
just isn’t big
enough to add another
permanent worksurface,
so I built this fold-away tool
stand. And it has quite a few
things going for it.
Since the stand is mounted to
the wall, it doesn’t take up much
space when it’s in use. Then
when you don’t need it any-
more, it folds up flat to the
wall — out of the way (photo at left).
Another selling point is that the stand is
fully adjustable. The top can be set to almost at an
angle (and height) for a scroll saw. Or you can set it horizontal
for other tools like a benchtop band saw or grinder, as shown on the
back cover. You can even make a drafting table top (see page 21). And
finally, you won’t spend a lot of time making it.

18 ShopNotes No. 77
 S H O P P R O J E C T

OVERVIEW
The tool stand is made up of two
assemblies — a wall frame and an
1
adjustable top, as you can see in the
photo on the opposite page. The top
is connected to the wall frame with
sliding blocks that make for fast,
smooth adjustments.
By loosening the upper blocks
and sliding them down, the top folds
back against the wall, as shown in
the inset photo on the opposite page.
And this means you can use the
blocks to position the top at what-
ever height or angle you like.
Don’t worry that all this adjusta-
bility will make the stand wobbly. In
fact, when the blocks are locked
down, it’s rock solid.
b.
Wall Frame – I started building
the tool stand by making the wall
frame. It consists of a pair of rails
a.
and track guides that both support
the work surface and anchor it
securely to the wall.
The top and bottom rails (A) are
cut from 3/4"-thick hardwood and
screwed to two track guides (B)
which have a groove cut in the front
face. The groove is sized to fit a
length of aluminum T-track, as that the flange bolts need to be Next, two holes are drilled in each
shown in Figure 1a. This frame puts slipped into the track before you block. One holds a flange bolt that
the T-track 16" on center. This way attach the top and bottom rails. secures the block to the T-track. The
you can screw through the T-track Sliding Blocks – Each sliding other hole holds a carriage bolt used
and guides and into the wall studs, as block is glued up from two layers of to attach the braces and cleats of the
illustrated in Figure 1b. 3/ "-thick hardwood and one 1/ "- work surface. After drilling the
4 2
Don’t assemble the wall frame just thick layer. To make the blocks con- holes, I rounded over the top edges,
yet. You’ll need to make the four sistent, I cut them from a single, slipped the flange bolts into the T-
sliding blocks (C) first. The reason is extra-long blank, as in Figure 2. track and assembled the frame.

FIGURE
Materials & Hardware 2
A Top/Bottom Rails (2) 3/ x 11/2 - 181/2
4
B Track Guides (2) 3/ x 21/2 - 36
4
C Sliding Blocks (4) 2 x 21/2 - 21/2
D Cleats (2) 3/ x 11/ - 24
4 2
E Braces (2) 3/ x 11/ - 32
4 2
F Top Panel (1) 26 x 16 - 3/4 Plywood
G Drafting Table Top (1) 26 x 36 - 3/4 Plywood
H Pencil Stop (1) 1/ x 1 - 36
2

• (2) 5/ " - 18 T-Knobs • (6) 5/ " Flat Washers

16 16
• (4) 5/ " - 18 Star Knobs • (4) 5/ " x 3" Flange Bolts
16 16
• (2) 5/ " x 2" Carriage Bolts • (4) 5/ " x 11/4" Fender Washers
16 16
• (2) 5/ " x 31/2" Carriage Bolts • (2) T-Tracks (36" long)
16
• (2) 5/ " x 41/4" Carriage Bolts • (6) #8 x 11/4" Fh Woodscrews
16
• (2) 5/ " x 3/4" Nylon Spacers • (16) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
16
• (4) 5/ " Lock Nuts
16

www.ShopNotes.com 19
 S H O P P R O J E C T

Worksurface —————————————————————————————————
FIGURE
Once the wall frame and sliding
blocks are done, you can begin
3
making on the worksur-
face assembly.
Supports –
The worksurface
is attached to the wall
a.
frame with two supports, as shown
in Figure 3. I started by making
the supports with the
cleats (D). They
serve two functions.
First, they add extra
strength and rigidity to
the worksurface. This will
help prevent the top from
b.
flexing in use. The second thing
{ Folds Flat. Nylon the cleats do is provide the rear con-
spacers on the nection points for the upper sliding
lower sliding blocks blocks of the wall frame.
allow the front The cleats are made from 3/4"-
braces to slip inside thick hardwood. The two lower cor-
the cleats. This lets ners of each cleat are rounded. Then
the top fold flat a hole is drilled in each end to attach
against the wall. the cleats to the upper sliding blocks
(Figure 3a) and the braces that are
made later. I also drilled several
shank holes for attaching the cleat to
the top panel with screws.
Next, you can make the two braces
(E). Like the cleats, they’re cut from riage bolt, washer, and lock nut top panel (F) to size from 3/4" ply-
3/ "-thick stock. But here, I rounded (Figures 4 and 4b). To connect the wood. The front corners of the panel
4
over the top and bottom of each end braces to the lower sliding blocks, I are rounded and there are a pair of
to allow the braces to pivot freely. used a longer carriage bolt and notches at the back that provide
The braces are attached to the installed a nylon spacer between the access to the sliding blocks (Figure
inside face of the cleats with a car- brace and the block, as you can see 4a). The top is simply attached to the
in Figure 3b. This keeps the cleats with long screws, as shown in
FIGURE brace properly aligned. Figure 4b. And all that’s left is to drill
4 Top Panel – Now mounting holes for your tool (or
you can cut the tools) and start using it.

a.

b. c.

20 ShopNotes No. 77
 Optional
Drafting
Board

< Out of the Way.The

drafting table almost
disappears to open up
more shop space.

A fter building the tool stand, it

didn’t take long for us to come
up with another use for it.
Alternate Top – One idea that
came to mind was to make a
drafting board top, like you see
in the photo above. It’s nice to
have a place to sit down and do
some drawing, but that’s something
I don’t do everyday. So the now-you-
see-it, now-you-don’t nature of the
fold-away tool stand makes it just the in place with some
thing for my shop. And the flexibility carpet tape. The vinyl
of the sliding blocks lets me set the board provides a smoother and
top at a comfortable height. softer surface for writing and
Best of all, you really don’t need to drawing than a plain plywood top.
change much. To make the conver- Then to keep my pencils from
sion, all I did was make a larger rolling off the top and onto the floor, a.
drafting table top (G) out of 3/4" ply- I added a small lip to the bottom
wood. You can see the dimensions edge. The pencil stop (H) is just a
for it in the drawing at right. piece of 1/2"-thick hardwood with the
Next, I attached a vinyl board top edges rounded over. It’s simply
cover made by Borco. You can find it glued to the edge of the top, as you
at most art or office stores. It’s held can see in detail ‘a.’

www.ShopNotes.com 21
 Making
Tools Move

Put your shop on

wheels to gain
space, efficiency,
and flexibility

W ouldn’t it be great if you

could change the location or
position of your shop tools in min-
mobile is whether to buy a universal
base that you can size to fit just about
any tool. Or do you buy a dedicated
utes to suit the task at hand? Or base — one that’s been designed to
rearrange your tools to accommo- handle a specific tool?

Things to Consider date a new purchase? Maybe you

just need to “shove” things out of the
Universal Base – As its name
implies, a universal base is designed
1.Does a universal base suit my needs, or way a bit to make a little extra room to be adjustable. This way, you can
should I purchase a dedicated base that’s for assembling a large project or cut- size it to fit a wide range of different
designed for my specific tool? ting a sheet of plywood down to size. tools. In most cases, this involves
2.If the mobile base can be adjusted, how Wishful thinking? Not really. With bolting together adjustable rails or
easy is it to make a change? a wide range of mobile bases avail- bars so that the base of the tool fits
3.What are the minimum and maximum sizes able from a number of manufac- inside the perimeter of the frame.
the base can be adjusted to? turers, putting wheels under just Dedicated Base – The other
4.Is the base stable when moving the tool, and about any tool, workbench, or work- option is to buy a mobile base that’s
more importantly, is it stable once it’s locked in surface is easy. This way, you can designed for a specific tool. Instead of
place and you’re working at the tool? change your shop any time you want adjustable rails, the rails are sized to
5.Does the base lock in place by foot-actuated without any problems. fit the tool and then welded together.
levers or hand-operated knobs? How many? But with so many mobile bases For more on dedicated bases, see the
When locked, does it rest on wheels or pads? available, what things should you box on the opposite page.
6.How much assembly is required to put the consider when buying one? What do Regardless of the type of base
mobile base together? you really need? And what’s really you choose, making your shop
7.What’s the maximum tool weight the mobile
important? In the box at left, you can mobile is one of the simplest ways
base will support?
see the things you should consider to “add” valuable working space,
8.Will the base handle extension tables or is
before settling on a mobile base. improve the overall efficiency of
there an accessory available to handle it?
What Type of Base? – One of your shop, and just make working
9.How much will I have to spend?
the first considerations when going in the shop more enjoyable.

22 ShopNotes No. 77
 I N T H E S H O P

JET
One of the downsides of most uni-
JET
(Around $50 for base and
versal bases is the time you have to
$50 for extension kit)
spend assembling them (more on
this later). Of course you only have
to do this once (unless you want to BASE ADJUSTS FROM
change it for another tool). Still, you 18" x 18" TO 28" x 28"
STEEL RAILS SLIDE
don’t want assembly to be a hassle. EASILY AND PIN IN
And that’s where the Jet universal PLACE QUICKLY
(SEE INSET) ALL FOUR WHEELS
base shines (photo at right). LOCK TO FORM
Note: This base is rated for 600 STABLE PLATFORM
lbs. Jet makes another mobile base
for tools up to 1200 lbs.
Assembling the base takes a
couple minutes at most. All you have
to do is slip the steel bars into the bend over to lock any of the four
corners, position them to match the wheels. Each one has a separate
mobile base to the base of your tool, foot-operated lock, as you can see in
and then “lock” everything in place the margin photo.
with spring-loaded pins (see inset). Extension Accessor y – A
This ease of assembly does come you move the tool around. But once handy accessory available for the Jet { Wheel Locks.
at a sacrifice. Because the rails are the wheels are locked in place, the base is an add-on extension kit. It’s A simple press of
held in each corner by a single pin base (and tool) is quite steady. designed to support table saws (or each foot lever
and not bolted, the base isn’t as rigid Speaking of locking the base in other tools) with large wing exten- locks (or unlocks)
as I’d prefer. It has a little “flex” to it. place, that’s one feature of the Jet sions, like the one you see in the the wheels of
You’ll probably notice this most as base I really liked. I don’t have to photo on the opposite page. the base.

The Case for a Dedicated Base

Instead of a “one-size-fits-all” class of tools, like 14"
approach, you might want to con- band saws). WELDED STEEL
FRAME IS RIGID
sider a dedicated base, like the one The reason I prefer
shown at right. a dedicated mobile BASE IS SIZED FOR
Now you might be thinking base is because it’s SPECIFIC TOOL
(OR CLASS OF TOOLS)
that once a mobile base is under a engineered for a
tool, isn’t it pretty much “dedi- specific tool and HTC
cated?” What makes a dedicated the frame fea- (Prices range from about
base different is that it’s designed tures welded $100 to over $300)
to fit a specific tool (or power steel construc-
tion. So the base
(and tool) are
solid, whether THREE-POINT
it’s locked in STANCE AND LOCKS
place and you’re ON ALL WHEELS
FORM A ROCK-
using the tool, or you’re SOLID BASE
moving it around the shop.
Some tool manufacturers make
dedicated bases for their tools. But Cost – About the only down-
HTC Products Inc. has “dedi- side to a dedicated base is the cost.
cated” themselves to this type of It’s probably going to run at least
{ Wheel Locks. All it takes to firmly base. They make a base for just twice as much (or more) than a
lock the two fixed wheels of this about any tool. (They’ll even typical universal base. For sources
base is a couple turns of a knob. custom make one for you.) of dedicated bases, see page 35.

www.ShopNotes.com 23
 I N T H E S H O P

Some (a lot of) assembly required.

GENERAL
That’s something that should be in
(Around $55)
big bold letters on the outside of
STEEL CHANNELS
most of the universal bases
being sold today. And it’s the FOOT-OPERATED
case for the rest of the mobile LEVERS RAISE BASE
bases shown here. OFF LEVELER PADS
(SEE INSET)
GENERAL
BASE ADJUSTS
With over a hundred parts, you can FROM 11" x 11"
expect to spend the better part of an } Interlocking Rails. Adjusting TO 19" x 51"
afternoon putting the General uni- a pair of interlocking rails makes it
versal base together. But once it’s easy to accommodate the General
assembled, you’ll be pleasantly sur- base for larger tools.
prised at how solid and well-built it is.
This General can be assembled to
cover a wide range of tools (up to 500
lbs). That’s because the rails are two-
piece channel assemblies. You can
use them singly to make a base to fit
tools with a small footprint. Safety
Note: Be careful not to use this setup
with a top-heavy tool like a drill
press. It won’t be quite as stable as
you roll it around the shop. Moving the base (and tool)
And when you need a larger base, around the shop is a breeze. And
just slip a set of channels together once you have it where you want it,
(they work like drawer slides) and just flip the lever on the wheel
tighten the bolts (see inset above). assembly up and the base will rest
on the leveler pads at the front of the
< Foot Pads. Turning a base. You’ll have to spend a little SHOP FOX
small knob raises the time “tweaking” the height of the Another contender for “how many
wheels off the floor, pads to find a position where the parts can we use in one base” is the
“locking” the base in place. base rests firmly on the pads, yet Shop Fox shown at the lower left. Like
still allows the base to move easily the General, the Shop Fox has an
once you press the levers to raise assortment of over a hundred parts.
the base onto the wheels. With heavy-duty, tubular steel con-
struction, this base acts more like a
dedicated base once it’s assembled.
It provides a hefty, rock-solid founda-
tion for tools up to 700 lbs.
Unlike the General, there aren’t
any foot levers to raise and lower
SHOP FOX the base on the Shop Fox. Instead,
($65 for model shown) there are a pair of leveler pads that
you lower to lift the base off the
wheels. Just a little turn and the
BASE ADJUSTS FROM
19" x 201/2" TO 291/2 x 291/2" base “locks” in place without any
problem (see inset).
Besides the model shown (D2057),
Shop Fox has two other versions of
HEAVY-DUTY this base available to accommodate a
TUBULAR RAILS BOLT LEVELER PADS wider range of tool sizes and
IN PLACE FOR SOLID RAISE BASE
ASSEMBLY weights. Also, extension kits are
OFF WHEELS
available to handle long and narrow
machines or extension tables.

24 ShopNotes No. 77
 I N T H E S H O P

11/2"-SQUARE
ROCKLER HARDWOOD RAILS ROCKLER
(About $50 for version with
So what do you do if the tool or work- foot lever plus the cost of
station you want to make mobile the hardwood rails)
won’t fit the adjustability limitations
of a “universal” base? Simple. Use a
universal base where you make your FOOT LEVER/WHEEL
own rails any size you want from ASSEMBLY CAN BE
REMOVED TO USE ON
hardwood stock. Both Rockler OTHER BASES
(shown at right) and Delta make a LEVELER
version of this type of universal base. PAD
Instead of supplying rails or tubes BASE SIZE VARIES
to connect the corners of the base, the DEPENDING ON
LENGTH OF
corners are designed to accept 11/2"- CUSTOM-MILLED
square pieces of hardwood. This way, HARDWOOD RAILS
you can mill the stock to any length NOTE: BASE IS
you like (within reason, of course). RATED FOR APPR.
300 LBS. WITH
Once you have the rails made, all HARDWOOD RAILS
you have to do to complete the
assembly is drill a few holes and bolt
the rails in place. Then you can add a < G o i n g M o b i l e . To make the
pair of leveler pads and a foot lever to Rockler base mobile, press the foot
the opposite end of the base. lever to raise the base off the leveler
The foot lever raises the base off pads and onto the wheel.
the pads, like you see in the inset
photo above. The lever is removable, than an all-metal or dedicated base. mind depending on the size of tool
so you can buy separate base kits Especially with longer rails. And you plan to be moving around.
and move the lever from one base to since the base is supported by a
another as you need to. Which is a single wheel once it’s mobile, it feels ANOTHER OPTION
nice feature if you have a number of less stable as you move it around. If you have cabinet-style tools,
tools to add bases to. Once the base is planted firmly on there’s one more option you might
Because you’re using hardwood the leveler pads, it’s a fairly solid want to consider. You can read about
rails, this base has a little more flex unit. Still, it’s something to keep in it in the box below.

Casters for Cabinets

There’s another type of universal casters wrap around the bottom lip
base that doesn’t require any adjust- of the stand and clamp in place.
ment of rails to size it — and that’s Installing them is a snap. Simply
the set of casters shown at right. raise the cabinet off the ground
Jet designed these casters for slightly (3/4") and slip the casters
use with cabinet-style tools. The in place. A magnetic pad on the
inside face of each caster (lower
MAGNETIC PAD
left photo) holds it in place while
you tighten the clamping brackets.
Once the casters are locked in
place, moving the tool is smooth
and easy. And foot-operated locks
keep the tool solidly in place. { Supporting
The casters are sold in sets of you can spin your tool 360° in Cabinet-Style Tools.
four. You can get an all-swivel set, place — a handy feature at times. Make any cabinet
or a set that has a pair of swivel Both sets are rated for up to 600 base mobile by
CLAMPING
BRACKET casters along with a set of fixed lbs. and sell for around $60). For clamping this caster
casters. With either set of casters, sources, refer to page 35. set to the lower
frame of the cabinet.

www.ShopNotes.com 25
 Under-stair storage space is not just for
the shop. The flexible design allows you to organize and
store large or small household items with ease.

Under-Stair
Storage
Great storage space lies just beneath your
stairs. With this simple design and common materials
you can solve your storage problems in short order.
26 ShopNotes No.77
 S T O R A G E P R O J E C T

1
FIGURE
a. b.

W oodworkers can be like pack

rats when it comes to pieces
of scrap wood. I always seem to save
just about everything, collecting dif-
ferent-size pieces of lumber and all
sizes and shapes of plywood cutoffs. three base floor (B) strips to size
The problem I always have is finding from three separate sheets of MDF.
a place to store them all. Each strip is secured using counter-
Then I discovered an often over-
looked storage place right under my
sunk woodscrews along the edges,
as shown in Figure 1 above.
2
stairs. So, to make the most of the Before moving on to the base
space, I constructed built-in shelves cleats, you can route a 3/8" chamfer
that fit under the stairway to keep along the front and back edges of the
everything in order and off the floor. base to give it a finished look.
Look it Over – As you can see in Base Cleats – To hold the ver-
the photo on the left, the dividers tical dividers I made some MDF base
and shelves are raised off the floor cleats (C) with a centered dado
on a sturdy 2x4 base platform. routed in each cleat (Figure 2a). The
Slotted cleats hold the dividers in
place and the shelves simply rest on
dadoes were cut a little bit wider
than the 3/4" MDF to allow the ver-
a.
adjustable shelf supports. The tical dividers to fit easily in place.
design is simple and can be easily I routed a 3/8" chamfer along both
adjusted to meet your storage needs. sides and ends of each cleat to
Build the Base –The first thing remove the sharp edges (Figure 2b).
you’ll want to do is construct the To complete the base, I attached the
solid base that supports the set of cleats to the top of the MDF platform
dividers and shelf components. Four with countersunk woodscrews cen-
2x4’s are used to build the primary tered in the dadoes (Figure 1a). b.
base frame (A). A couple of 2x4’s Now, you’ll want to check to see if
were added inside the base frame your base sits flat and level. If it isn’t
for support and to provide a place for level, you’ll need to add some shims
the attaching the MDF floor. or levelers to the base frame. This is
Since I knew that most of my 3/4" also a good time to secure the base
MDF was going to be used to make frame to the wall if you think you
the dividers and shelves, I ripped need to keep it from shifting.

www.ShopNotes.com 27
 S T O R A G E P R O J E C T

Shelf Dividers — 3 a.
With the base platform built and
the base cleats in place, it’s time to
add the spaced top rails (D) to hold
the upper ends of the vertical
dividers. For this, you’ll need to
move to the bottom side of the
stringers of your stairs.
Top Rails – In my case the stair
stingers are exposed — so I was
able to attach the rails to the under-
side of them. These rails run along
the bottom of the stair stringers to
capture the top of each of the ver-
tical dividers. They need to be prop-
erly positioned to keep the vertical
dividers aligned so that later the
shelves will fit well.
To determine the placement of
each of the rails, I used a wood
straightedge and a level. Since my
platform is slightly narrower than
the stringers, I slipped a wood
spacer between the straightedge
and the outside base as shown in
Figure 3. This helped me to easily
line up and mark the divider loca- a plumb position was reached. I You’ll need to do this for each of
tions along the edge of the stringer. marked this position and then the base cleats to identify the posi-
To do this I aligned the straight- moved 13/16" to the left and made a tion for each of the vertical
edge along the right edge of the second mark (Figures 3 and 3a). dividers. Then repeat the process
dado in the base cleat and moved Again, slightly wider to allow the for the inside stringer.
the level and the straightedge until 3/ " divider to slide easily in place. Top Rail Measurements – The
4
length and end angles of the top
4 a. rails will depend on the layout of
your staircase. To find the length,
measure the distance between the
sets of stringer marks on the out-
side edge of the stringer, as illus-
trated in Figure 4. This length will
vary with the staircase.
Next, find the angle cut required
for the ends of each rail. I used a
bevel gauge to do this. Simply lay the
body of the bevel gauge along the
bottom edge of the stringer and then
align the blade with one of the lines
b. you marked on the stringer, as
shown in Figure 4a.
Then use the bevel gauge to set
the miter gauge on your table saw to
make an end miter cut at this angle.
(The angle I needed to make my end
miter cut for my top rails was 53°.)
The rails can now be cut to size
from ripped down 2x4 stock. You’ll

28 ShopNotes No. 77
 S T O R A G E
a.
want to make end miter cuts to your
rail measurement length at each end
5
of the top rail 2 x 4 stock. Just use the
measurements you took from the
stair stringers to miter the rails to
length. I cut two short end pieces
and used them to capture the two b.
outside vertical dividers at each end,
as shown in Figure 4.
Before putting the vertical
dividers in place, you’ll want to
check and see that each of the top
rails line up with your stringer
marks. And be sure that the outside
edge of the top rail and the stringer
face is flush as you screw each of the
top rails into position.
Vertical Dividers – Next, cut
MDF vertical dividers (F) to fit each
of the “slots” you’ve created with the
top rails and base cleats. To deter-
mine the length of each of the ver-
tical dividers, I measured the dis-
tance from the bottom of the dado
in the base cleat to 1/8 " below the
stringer on the low side (see Figure the holes line up with the opposite This under-stair storage design is
5a). This will give you enough clear- side so that the shelves are level. adjustable and flexible. You’ll find it’s
ance to easily slide each of the ver- Shelves –To finish the storage easy to add or remove shelves or to
tical dividers into place. unit, I cut MDF shelves (D) to fit alter the shelf height and width as
Before you can add the shelves between the vertical dividers. The your needs change (see box below).
you’ll need to drill a set of 1/4" number of shelves you’ll need will Now all that’s left is to insert the
through holes to accept the shelf depend on how you decide to con- shelf supports and slide in the
supports (Figure 5b). I started with figure your storage unit. I routed a shelves. It’s really that easy to do.
holes 6 1/2" from the bottom and 1/ " chamfer along the front of each
4 So, if you’re looking for quick and
then added more holes every 6". But shelf to smooth the edges and give easy storage, you might just want to
any configuation will work as long as it a more finished look. take a look under your feet.

Wider Shelves
If you need some wide storage,
it’s an easy conversion to wider
shelves. Simply remove a vertical
divider and make some wider
MDF shelves.
You’ll need to add additional
support cleats (H) under the
shelves to prevent the shelf from
sagging along this wider span.
I added a 11/2" x 3/4" support
cleat across the front and back of
the shelf. Set the cleat 1" back
from the front and back edges of
the shelf, as shown on the right,
and anchor it with screws.

www.ShopNotes.com 29
 W E E K E N D P R O J E C T

Router Bit
Storage
Center
Keep your router bits and accessories
front and center with this easy-to-
build, weekend project.

F or the longest time it wasn’t unusual to find router

bits (and other router accessories) tucked away in
every corner of my shop. Finally, after I spent more time
looking for a router bit than actually using it, I knew it
was time to get organized. The storage center you see at
left was the solution. It keeps all my bits and accessories
in one spot, protected, and right at hand.
Small Project, Big Features – The storage
center has a number of handy features. For starters,
there are three removable shelves for storing router
bits. You can slip out a shelf and take it right where you
need to work — whether that’s at a router table, like
you see in the photo, or across the shop at your work-
bench (with a hand-held router).
To ensure that you’ll be able to store just about any
size or shape router bit, there are two different shelf
designs. The drawings on the opposite page show the
hole arrangement I used. But you can make whatever
combinations of shelves, holes, and patterns you need to
suit the collection of router bits you have.
Finally, you don’t want to lose track of all your router
odds and ends, like wrenches and collets. To solve that
problem, the bottom of the storage center has a hard-
board lip to keep everything neatly contained.

Removable Shelves. The shelves can

be customized to suit your set of router bits. And
each shelf slides in and out with ease so you
can take it right where you need it.

30 ShopNotes No. 77
 W E E K E N D P R O J E C T

a.

Make the Frame – I started on To keep the frame from racking, I

the storage center by making a hard- added a 1/4" hardboard back (D). As
wood frame. As you can see in the you can see in detail ‘a,’ you’ll need to
Exploded View, it’s nothing more rout a rabbet along the inside back
than a pair of sides (A), along with a edge of the frame. After cutting the
top and bottom (B). Dadoes cut in back to size, round off the corners Once you have the holes laid out,
the ends of the sides are sized to and then glue the back in place. drill them slightly oversize (1/32").
match the top and bottom. And a set Shelves – At this point, you’re Then chamfer the top edge so the
of narrower dadoes (1/4") will hold ready to make the shelves that hold shanks slip in and out easily (or you
the shelves made later. the bits. Each shelf is nothing more can simply sand the holes a bit after
Once all the dadoes are complete, than a 1/4" hardboard base (E) with a drilling them out). Before gluing the
you can miter the top and bottom of single or double layer of MDF bit holders to the base, cut a cen-
the sides to ease the sharp edges. making up each bit holder (F, G). tered notch to provide a convenient
Then cut a groove along the front But before you start cutting the way to pull the shelf out (see lower
edge of the bottom piece to accept shelves to size or drill any holes, get photo on opposite page).
the hardboard lip (C). all your router bits together. This Fill It Up – To mount the storage
With the joinery complete, you way, you can use the drawings above center to the wall, simply screw
can assemble the frame with glue, and your collection of router bits to through the back. Now all that’s left
screws, and finish washers, making determine the best way to customize to do is fill the storage center with all
sure the assembly is square. a set of shelves to suit your needs. your router bits and accessories.

www.ShopNotes.com 31
 To view a
video on how Tying Down a
Load
to tie the
knots shown here, go to:
www.ShopNotes.com

Loop and Hitch. A loop

and two half hitches allow you
to easily pull a rope down tight to
secure a load.

I always look forward to starting a

to know are a
new project because it means
few basic knots. And
making a trip to the lumberyard to pick out the wood.
with a bit of practice, these
But one thing I don’t enjoy is tying down my purchase
will become second nature. Note:
for the ride home. Usually, my knot-tying efforts end
There are literally thousands of different knots, many of
up looking like a macrame project gone bad. And all
which serve the same basic purpose. We’ve selected a
the way home, I find myself nervously checking the
few useful ones that are fairly easy to learn.
} Start with a rear-view mirror to make sure that my lumber isn’t
Bowline – No matter what kind of load you are tying
Bowline. Easy to tie flying out of the back of my pick-up truck.
down, the first thing you will probably need to do is tie a
at the end of a line, Fortunately, I’ve discovered that you don’t need to be
loop at the end of the rope to anchor it down to a hook or
a bowline knot won’t an Eagle Scout to tie down a load properly. All you need
rack on your vehicle. One of the simplest knots to use for
slip and can be this is a bowline (pronounced BOH-
undone quickly. Bowline Knot ————————————————— linn). The advantages of a bowline
are that it won’t slip and can be
untied quickly. The drawings at left
will show you how to tie this knot.
LOOP Loop & Hitch – To cinch the
AROUND rope down over the load and secure
FIXED the other end, start by tying a
OBJECT farmer’s loop in the middle of the
Art Box HOLD rope (see drawings on opposite
Info TAIL END page). Then take the loose end of the
Size rope and wrap it around another
hook on the vehicle. Now simply
pass the end of the rope through the
loop and pull it down snug. The loop
HOLD LOOP acts like a pulley, allowing you to pull
HERE the rope down extremely tight. To
PULL hold it in place, you can tie off the
rope with a half hitch. Together,
STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 these knots will ensure that you and
your lumber arrive safely.

32 ShopNotes No. 77
 S H O P T A L K

Farmer’s Loop & Half Hitch ——————————————————

FARMER’S
LOOP 1
(SEE STEPS 1
THROUGH 4)

2
3
1 2 3 1
2

4 4

{ Step 1. Loop the rope around { Step 2. Next, pull the new center
your hand three times, then pull the loop (3) to the left, crossing over
middle loop (2) to the right. loop number 1.

2
3 1 2 1
3

{ Step 5. After passing the rope

4
2 4 through the loop and pulling it down
tight, tie off the end with a half hitch.
{ Step 3. Now pull the new center { S t e p 4. Finally, to create the
loop (1) to the right, crossing over finished loop, pull the center loop
loop number 2. (2) out from between the other two.

Rolling Hitch ——————————————————

If you’ve ever carefully tied down a secures the load in all four direc-
load of lumber only to have it go tions, preventing it from shifting
sliding across the bed of your pick- sideways or from front to back. It’s a
up truck the first time you make a good knot to use if you’re carrying a { Mechanical
sharp turn, you’ll want to learn how bundle of items, such as boards, Advantage. A loop
to tie a rolling hitch (see box below). pipes, or anything else that might tied in the middle of
The beauty of this knot is that it slide or roll around in transit. a rope acts like a
pulley, giving you a
STEP 1 STEP 2 mechanical advan-
tage when it comes
to cinching the line
down over a load.

{ Bundle Up. Once tightened, the

rolling hitch will not slip when pulled
in any direction, making it a good
choice for securing a bundle.

www.ShopNotes.com 33
 T O O L C H E S T
3 2
Talon 2
Pegboard
Hooks 1
4

1 W hen it comes to minor irrita-

tions, metal pegboard hooks
rank right up there with mosquitoes,
2 telemarketers, and getting a pebble
stuck in your shoe. The problem
with most hooks is that when you
5
take a tool off the pegboard, the
hook usually comes along with it and
then drops to the floor. After this
happens a few dozen times, you’ll
3 find yourself cringing every time 7 6
you reach for a tool. in the
4 But awhile back, I discovered a pegboard
pegboard hook that (see left photo
actually stays put. below). With the
They’re called Talon hook in place, all you do Hooks That Stay Put.
hooks and they just is push in a nylon screw on Unlike conventional
may be the greatest the front of the hook (see right pegboard hooks, Talon
thing to hit your shop photo below). This expands the hooks won’t fall out of
5 since the invention of wings of the split peg behind the the pegboard every
sandpaper. In fact, I’ve replaced pegboard, locking the hook to the time you pick up
every pegboard hook in my shop pegboard. No matter how hard you pegboard. a tool.
with a Talon hook. They’re really tug on the hook, it won’t come out. Then you can
6 that good. Here’s why. (The pegboard will break first.) reposition the hook
Lock-On Design – Talon hooks To remove a Talon hook, simply anywhere on the peg-
work on a simple, yet ingenious, back out the screw. The expanding board and reattach it.
principle. On the back of each hook wings spring back and you can pry Strength – If you’re used to
7 is a split peg that fits through a hole the hook out of the holes in the metal hooks, you might be kind of
skeptical the first time you pick up a
Talon hook. (I know I was.) At first
glance, they look like plastic. But
they’re actually made from a tough,
unbreakable nylon. I’ve found that
{ Hook Styles. they can easily handle as much
Available in seven weight as my old metal hooks.
different styles,Talon Styles – Talon hooks come in
hooks are designed seven different styles to handle a
to fit 1/4" pegboard. variety of tools (see photo above and
margin at left). You can purchase
them in packs of all one type or as an
assortment. (They range from about
60¢ to $1.00 apiece.) For sources,
{ Insert Hook. With the white, nylon { Spread Your Wings. Push the see the margin on the opposite page,
screw backed out, slip the hook screw in to spread the wings behind or visit the Talon website at
into a pair of holes in the pegboard. the pegboard and lock in the hook. www.talonhooks.com.

34 ShopNotes No. 77
 MAIL
ORDER
I S S U E S E V E N T Y - S E V E N SOURCES
Similar project
supplies may be

Sources ordered from

the following
companies:
Rockler

Mobile Bases Fold-Away Tool Stand 800-279-4441

www.rockler.com
Flange Bolts, Knobs, Mobile
n Whether you’re looking HTC a call. They have a n The fold-away tool T-track and then picked up Bases, T-Track, Talon
for a universal or dedi- base to match just about stand on page 18 requires the rest of the hardware at Pegboard Hooks
cated base, there are quite any tool on the market. a few bolts, knobs, and a local home center. Note: Akro-Mils, Inc.
800-253-2467
a few manufacturers out Universal Bases – some aluminum T-Track. You’ll need to cut the long
www.akro-mils.com
there to help you. Most woodworking cata- I ordered a 4' T-Track T-track and a couple of the Storage Bins
Dedicated Bases – logs feature one or two dif- Kit (24672) from Rockler flange bolts to length. Delta
Jet, Delta, and other man- ferent universal bases. But that contained most of the These same supplies 800-223-7278
ufacturers make dedicated you can check out the hardware I needed. I had can also be purchased from www.deltamachiner y.com
Mobile Bases
bases for some of their margin to find contact to order an extra 3' piece of the Woodsmith Store.
General
tools (and some will fit information for the manu- 514-326-1161
other brands of tools). But
for the most complete line
facturers of the universal
bases featured in the
Sliding-Door Cabinet www.general.ca
Mobile Bases
of dedicated bases, give article on page 22. n You should be able to was able to find the rollers HTC Products, Inc.
800-624-2027
find most of the hardware at a local Ace Hardware
Mobile Bases
Hi-Tech Table Saw Tune-Ups needed to build the
sliding-door storage cab-
Store (5200662). You can
also order them online at
In-Line Industries
800-533-6709
n You probably have most sories. In-Line also has inet on page 6 at a local www.acehardware.com. in-lineindustries.com
of what you need in your other after-market add-ons hardware store or home Storage Bins – The A-Line-It Kits, Link Belts &
Pulleys, PALS
shop already to tune up for your table saw that can center. A couple of the storage bin rack is sized to
Jet
your table saw (page 12). make it perform better — items listed below may accept small Akro-Mils
800-274-6848
But for a “hi-tech” approach, like a set of pulleys and a require a call to the manu- storage bins (30210). www.wmhtoolgroup.com
there are a number of prod- link belt, or the Precision facturer (or a check of These plastic bins (or sim- Mobile Bases
ucts available. Alignment and Locking their website) to locate a ilar ones) are available Lee Valley
In-Line Industries makes System (PALS). local distributor. from many hardware 800-871-8158
www.leevalley.com
a number of products for Finally, to get more out Hardware – To allow stores and home centers. Truing Disc
tuning up tools. Their A- of your table saw blade the doors of the cabinet to If you decide to use Prime-Line Products
Line-It Kit contains every- you might want to con- glide smoothly on the another brand, it’s a good 800-255-3505
thing you’ll need to check sider the Truing Disc from track, I used sliding screen idea to have them in hand prime-line-products.com
Sliding Screen Door Rollers
your saw down to the thou- Lee Valley or a blade stiff- door rollers. The ones I before you start building.
Woodsmith Store
sandth of an inch (0.001"). ener from Forrest (800- used were spring tension This way, you’ll know they’ll
800-835-5084
There’s even an advanced 733-7111, or on the web at rollers made by Prime- fit, or if you have to adjust In-Line Industry Products,
kit with additional acces- forrestsawblades.com). Line Products (B-522). I the dimensions to suit. Knobs, Mobile Bases, Saw
Blade Stiffener, T-Track,
Talon Pegboard Hooks
Woodstock International
SHOPNOTES PROJECT SUPPLIES 800-840-8420
woodstockinternational.com
Shop Fox Mobile Bases
We now feature hardware from in
many of our new project kits. To order, please use
our toll-free order line, see below. It’s open Monday
• “Online Extras” - Plans, Patterns, & More Online Customer Service
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1-800-347-5105 www.shopnotes.com
www.ShopNotes.com 35
 Scenes from
the Shop

Divide and Conquer.

With adjustable shelves and vertical dividers, you can
gain extra storage space under your stairs. Plans start on page 26.

Fold-Away
Tool Stand. This
tool stand folds out
(left photo) to give you
another work area when
you need it. Step-by-step
instructions begin on page 24.