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    Motoplat Information and Testing

    Uploaded by

    Mizio
    This document provides information about rebuilding and repairing Motoplat ignition systems, which were commonly used on European dirt bikes. It discusses the basic types of Motoplat ignition systems, including internal and external flywheel designs. It also provides instructions for testing Motoplat stators and ignition coils. Finally, it covers spark timing adjustment procedures and recommendations for different engine sizes.

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    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Motoplat Information and Testing

    Uploaded by

    Mizio
    801 views3 pages
    This document provides information about rebuilding and repairing Motoplat ignition systems, which were commonly used on European dirt bikes. It discusses the basic types of Motoplat ignition systems, including internal and external flywheel designs. It also provides instructions for testing Motoplat stators and ignition coils. Finally, it covers spark timing adjustment procedures and recommendations for different engine sizes.

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    Motoplat information and testing

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    This document provides information about rebuilding and repairing Motoplat ignition systems, which were commonly used on European dirt bikes. It discusses the basic types of Motoplat ignition systems, including internal and external flywheel designs. It also provides instructions for testing Motoplat stators and ignition coils. Finally, it covers spark timing adjustment procedures and recommendations for different engine sizes.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    801 views3 pages

    Motoplat Information and Testing

    Uploaded by

    Mizio
    This document provides information about rebuilding and repairing Motoplat ignition systems, which were commonly used on European dirt bikes. It discusses the basic types of Motoplat ignition systems, including internal and external flywheel designs. It also provides instructions for testing Motoplat stators and ignition coils. Finally, it covers spark timing adjustment procedures and recommendations for different engine sizes.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 3

    14/03/22, 18:30 Motoplat information and testing

    This page is a copy from


    http://www.ktm495.mxbikes.com/
    Motoplat ignition information
    Get your motoplat rebuilt!
    You can have your motoplat system repaired and rebuilt. These services
    are to be found at the following
    places:
    Pekka Förbom (Finland), [email protected]

    Charges between 100 and 130 euro depending on the work. He has the
    machinery to

    rewind the coils. He repairs both motoplat and SEM systems.

    Vintage Dirt Bike (USA), www.vintagedirtbike.com

    All electronic ignition models


    $195 complete, 6 month warranty, quick turn around

    Phone: (832) 788-5306 FAX: (270) 588-5627

    Stator Rewinds (Australia), http://www.dropbears.com/r/rewinds/

    All motorcycle stators rewound


    to factory specs or better.


    Phone: +61 (0)243 692 313


    Fax: +61 (0)243 692 313


    motoplat system
    Most older bikes have a ignition system and possibly a lightning named
    motoplat. Motoplat was a spanish
    company and supplied numerous manufacturers
    with ignition systems. Not only for MX and enduro bikes
    but also karting
    and road bikes. At least the european bikes where almost always equipped
    with the motoplat
    systems. These can easily be identified by their red
    plastic encapsulated stators and coils. Bikes like KTM,
    Penton, Maico,
    Ossa and Husqvarna are likely equipped with these.

    Internal and external flywheel


    There
    are basically two types of ignition systems. First the internal flywheel
    type. These doesn't have lightning coils and is mostly common on motocross
    bikes. The smaller diameter flywheel was supposed to make the engine revier
    with quicker response. Consequently the idle and low rev, trail properties
    are
    worse. The external rotor (flywheel) sometimes has lightning coils.
    The
    larger diameter places most of the rotating mass further out and therefore
    makes the engine more stable at lower revs. It also build revs slower and
    is
    therefore more suitable in enduro applications. Another negative effect
    is that
    the larger rotating mass adds a gyroscopic effect to the rotating
    engine which
    makes the bike harder to lean down in turns. This is a somewhat
    odd physical
    thing that easiest can be explored with a plain hand grinding
    machine rotating
    in your hands. While it does
    so, try to flick it sideways and you will
    feel what the gyroscopic effect will do. Basically what it's all about
    is
    that once a moving force is applied onto a rotating body the outcoming
    movement will be in 90 degrees from
    the applied forces direction.
    The external rotor comes in a few different types as well. The most
    common one has a small pin on the front side
    that is supposed to fit into
    a groove inside the flywheel. It's mounted by three small screws on the
    inside near the
    crank shaft. The outer diameter is about ø83mm.
    The inside of the flywheel is ø85mm. The other type is mounted

    ossa.2y.net/ossa/mektips/Motoplat/motoplat.htm 1/3
    14/03/22, 18:30 Motoplat information and testing

    the
    same way. Doesn't have a pin on the face but one of the
    coils has a larger
    metal plate surrounding it, it looks like a
    pickup. The outer diameter
    is slightly larger. Just about
    ø85mm. It will therefore not fit
    into the other types flywheel.
    There is also a smaller type seen on smaller
    displacement
    engines, like the sachs 100-175cc for example. The three
    mounting
    screws is located outside the entire stator plate.

    Ignition coil connection


    All motoplat stators have a black and a blue wire. The blue
    wire has a
    larger connection whereas the black is smaller.
    These are intended for
    the ignition coil. The blue is the
    capacitor charge and is mostly lengthened
    so it can be
    connected to a kill switch. The black wire is the trigger
    wire for the coil, triggering the actual spark. If there
    there is no kill
    switch you can connect a wire to the blue wire and to a kill switch.

    Testing the stator ignition


    There are two basic types of stators. One with the diode in the stator.
    This diode is replacable and is usually
    connected to a ignition coil that
    has a black lead to the spark plug. It can be identified by having a diode
    symbol on the stator.

    Testing the stator with a diode.

    Disconnect both the black and the blue wire from the ignition coil
    and kill switch. Connect one test lead to ground
    and the other to the blue
    wire. Interchange the two test leads and read the results. In one direction
    there should
    be infinity and the other there should be a very high resistance.
    between 3000 and 9000 ohms. If none of the
    measurements shows infinity
    the diode is defective. This is almost always combined with a significantly
    lower
    resistance, below 100 ohms. If on the other hand one direction shows
    infinity but the other a very high reading,
    well over 10000 ohms the stator
    itself is interrupted but the diode is good.

    Testing the stator without the diode

    Disconnect both the black and blue wire from the ignition coil and kill
    switch. Take a measure between
    ground and the blue wire. There should be
    a reading between 140 and 200 ohms shows that the charging coil
    is good.
    Now measure between the blue and black wire. There should be a reading
    between 16 and 24 ohms.
    If there is a short in the coil you will get a
    reading under 15 ohms.

    Testing the ignition coil


    The ignition coil with the black spark plug lead can be tested with an
    ohmeter. Take a measurement between
    ground and the large terminal, the
    one that should be connected to the blue wire. You should get brief reading
    and then immidiately to infinity. Interchange the test leads a few times
    and check that the reading within a
    short moment returns to infinity every
    time. The secondary winding can be tested by measuring the
    resistance between
    ground and the spark plug wire. The value should be within 7000 to 9000
    ohms.
    The coil with the red spark plug lead, the one with a diode cannot be
    tested except for the secondary winding that
    should be tested exactly as
    the other one with the black spark plug wire.

    Spark timing adjustment

    ossa.2y.net/ossa/mektips/Motoplat/motoplat.htm 2/3
    14/03/22, 18:30 Motoplat information and testing

    The timing procedure is very simple on these systems. There is no computerized


    or vacum controlled delay
    or advancation that requires any given RPM for
    a correct measurement. The inner rotor system has two lines.
    One on the
    flywheel and the other on the stator. Once these two are aligned the spark
    is produced. The outer
    rotor (flywheel) design has a very small hole drilled
    on the face of the flywheel. There is a equally small hole
    in the stator
    plate. Once these are aligned, you can use the back of a small drill to
    do find that out, the spark
    is produced. Take great care not to turn the
    flywheel once the pin (drill) is aligning the flywheel with the
    stator
    since the plastic will break. Not that I didn't wrote COULD. I wrote WOULD.
    Take great care.
    What you have to do is to remove the spark plug. Use a gauge to measure
    the upper deadpoint. Find out how
    much before the upper deadpoint the spark
    should occur and then see to it that the flywheel and the stator is
    aligned
    the way I described here above. The advance of the ignition is determined
    of several factors. One is the
    diameter of the combution chamber. The larger
    it is the longer time will the burning process take. Another one is
    the
    RPM where you would want your engine to perform the best. A third important
    factor is the quality of the
    gasoline. An early spark could casue pre-ignition,
    known as pinging or knock. This is a fatal state for the engine
    and should,
    if possible be avoided. Different engines have different specs but here
    are some guidelines. The lower
    value is preffered for enduro or other slow
    pace situations where torque is better. The higher value is better for
    motocross or desert riding where the engine is going for a higher rev and
    power output most of the time.

    100, 125 & 150cc

    2,6-3,1mm before upper deadpoint. These are relatively high values


    despite the smaller bore. The reason is that
    engines this small often revs
    higher and due to their power curve they are mostly kept at these revs.

    175 to 250cc

    1,7-2,5mm before upper deadpoint. The lower RPM combined with the fairly
    small bore doesn't require as much
    pre-ignition.

    300-500cc

    2,3-2,8mm (3,3-3,8) before upper deadpoint. Here the larger bore will
    require a slightly earlier ignition. The
    reading over 3mm should only be
    used on full sized 500cc bikes and in competition. It will stress the piston,
    wrist
    pin and the crank very hard but give the engine all intended horse
    power. Another thing is that reading over 3mm
    greatly increases the risk
    of kick-back when starting the engine. This is dangerous and could cause
    severe injuries
    to your foot and leg. We have all heard stories of the
    old english bikes and their kick-backs. Forget the entire thing.
    There
    is no engine type intended to be started by foot that kick backs more fiercly
    than a full sized 500cc two
    stroke engine.

    Lightning
    The lightning on these systems normally have three leads.

    Yellow: 35w head light


    Green 18 or 21w stop light

    Red or white 5w tail ligh

    ossa.2y.net/ossa/mektips/Motoplat/motoplat.htm 3/3

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