全球羽绒服- LuxeCO Intelligence

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华 全球羽绒服

丽 品牌研究报告
LUXECO
INTELLIGENCE
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

第四阶段:小众设计
第三阶段:奢侈时尚

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN LU C

的四个阶段
LL E N IG CO

X E

TE
C

第一阶段:从基础功能起步
IG CO E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U

第二阶段:与运动、户外的渊源
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
羽绒服品牌涌现
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C

的。
备。
IG CO

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E N

多版本的羽绒服:
LL

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L

户外用品和运动装备。
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

创造了引入缎面元素的“晚装夹克”;

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E
就是羽绒服),并在1940年获得了专利。

IG CO
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

设计了“睡袋外套”,最早就是用睡袋制成
1970年代,美国时装设计师 Norma Kamali
创办于1952年、以睡袋起家的 Moncler 在
1930年代,美国时装设计师 Charles James
发明了第一件 puffer jacket(河豚夹克,也
1936年,美国企业家和探险家 Eddie Bauer

1954年推出了第一件羽绒服,并在50、60年
代被意大利、法国探险队作为官方户外装

等基础功能起步,在第二阶段逐渐拓展到了
期的第一阶段多是从床上用品、功能性服装
如今为人们所熟知的羽绒服品牌,在创立初
从下文图表可以看到,这些创立时间较早、
此后,时装设计师们在此基础上探索出了更

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO
羽绒服品牌涌现的四个阶段


X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

3
TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

品牌
LL E

Herno
X E

TE
C E

Moncler
IG CO E

Pyrenex
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

品牌

Herno
X E

TE
C E

Ciesse Piumini
Canada Goose

Moncler
E

Pyrenex
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN

Ciesse Piumini
Canada Goose
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E

Sam Tick
LL E N

IN
Abel Crabos
LU C

Silvano Cinelli
IG CO

René Ramillon

X E

André Vincent
TE IN L

Sam Tick
E E
N

Alessandra Diana
LL
Giuseppe Marenzi

Abel Crabos

IN TE UX
LU C

Silvano Cinelli
IG CO

René Ramillon
André Vincent

TE X E E IN LL E
第一阶段:从基础功能起步

E LU

Alessandra Diana
N IG CO

Giuseppe Marenzi
LL

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E

第二阶段:与运动、户外的渊源
E

应商
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

雪的技术运动服,曾赞助多个重要赛事

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L
创始背景 -从基础功能起步

E E
LL N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L
LL E

创始背景 - 与户外和运动的渊源
E E IG C
LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

从五家品牌的创始背景,看羽绒服品牌创立初期的基础功能属性

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

4

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE

2004年1月
2004年1月
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E

侈时尚”。
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E LL E

年作为起点)
E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E

热度随时间变化趋势
热度随时间变化趋势

歌搜索热度变化
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

2009年1月1日
2009年1月1日

TE X E E IN

业获得高度关注与认可;
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
第三阶段:奢侈时尚

E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

2014年1月1日
2014年1月1日
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

上 图:2004/1/1-2019/12/31,Canada Goose 谷
收购并开始时装化这一时间点作为参考,将 2004
热 度 变 化:(以 Moncler 2003 年 被 Remo Ruffini
上 图:2004/1/1-2019/12/31,Moncler 谷 歌 搜 索

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
N IG CO

2019年1月1日
LL E

X

TE
C E

2019年1月1日
性,强调奢侈的产品体验,成为奢侈羽绒品类的又一巨头。
掌后,Canada Goose 以先进科技继续加码羽绒服的功能
域的领导地位。1997 年家族第三代继承人 Dani Reiss 执
以 羊 毛 马 甲、雨 衣 和 雪 地 服 起 家 的 Canada Goose,在
破 产。2003 年 Moncler 被 意 大 利 企 业 家 Remo Ruffini
轻人的追捧。90 年代 Moncler 遭遇发展瓶颈,一度濒临
拉链、加入皮草等元素)成为时尚趋势,备受当时米兰年
1980 年代,Moncler 改良后的短款羽绒夹克(用纽扣代替
Moncler、Canada Goose 共同领航,开启了羽绒服的 “奢
行业向奢侈时尚领域靠拢。需要注意的是,Moncler 的高
Moncler、Canada Goose 的品牌重塑,则加速了羽绒服
上世纪 90 年代起,户外羽绒服逐渐走向大众。此后十年,

收购后,通过时装化开辟了奢侈羽绒品类,在奢侈时尚行

80 年代以一款 Expedition 派克大衣树立了在户外装备领


IG CO E N
端化之路侧重“时尚性”,Canada Goose 则强调“功能性”。

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
E N

定的上升期。
LL

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E

后上升趋势明显。
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE

2017 年(品牌上市)
波浪式上升,特别是
从 2009 年开始呈现
年开始进入另一个稳
波浪式上升,从 2016
从 2007 年开始呈现
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C

5
IG CO

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
C

时间
LU IG CO
N

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

品牌

E

Nobis
TE X LL E

Moose
E IN
E LU

Pyrenex
N IG CO

Duvetica

Knuckles
LL

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E

权威
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E 牌 Pyrenex Premium。 IN
E

动服装”
LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU C

品牌定位

顶级户外潮牌
IG CO

TE X E E IN LL E
E N
LU IG CO

韧、最奢华的运
上最精益、最坚
顶级灰鹅绒品牌
性能外套领域的
LL

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
产品定价 C
LU IG CO
LL E N

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL

绒)
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
N IG CO

填充鹅绒
LL E

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C
四家定位于奢侈时尚的羽绒品牌,产品定价/材料特性一览

IG CO

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C
后代创办了品牌 Moose Knuckles; Pyrenex 也在 2009 年创办了定位于奢侈羽绒的新品
Nobis; Moncler 前总裁和品牌经理创办了 Duvetica; 拥有悠久羽绒制作历史的家族企业
后开始,更多定位于奢侈羽绒服的品牌开始涌现,比如 Canada goose 前副总裁创办了
Moncler、Canada Goose 两个品牌的巨大成功对于时尚行业影响巨大,自 2007 年前

IG CO

6

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

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N
LU IG CO C

X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L

7.9 万粉丝。
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

尚界站稳了脚跟。
LL E

X E

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E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

欢迎扫码,与我们互动。
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C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

X E

中国大陆、香港和台湾。
TE IN
E E
LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
C E

http://luxecozhiku.mikecrm.com/ftul87r
IG CO E N

E LL

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N
LU IG CO C

X E

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第四阶段:小众设计


IN LU IG CO C

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中国的 Chen Peng 表现更为突出。


TE X E
E N

的最贵单品都突破了 10000 人民币。


LL

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E L

亚洲(16%)、东欧(15%)和美洲(6%);
E IN
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE

Chen Peng 目前在全球 17 个国家的 100 多家


额 44%,欧洲是第二大市场,占 18%,其次是
Khrisjoy 的主要市场仍然是意大利,占销售总
从商业拓展看,来自意大利的 Khrisjoy 和来自
人气最高,在社交媒体平台 Instagram 上拥有
从社交媒体热度看,来自乌克兰的 Ienki Ienki
从定价看,Ienki Ienki、Khrisjoy、Chen Peng
C “臃肿而土气”的固有标签,让羽绒服品牌在时
Khrisjoy、Chen Peng 等。这些品牌凭借前卫
在 2015 年前后,一些设计师直接 创立主打概
2013 年,Moncler 成功上市,并开始大举开拓

得时尚潮人竞相追捧,更进一步打破了羽绒服
的设计理念和标志性的设计元素一夜爆红,获

IG CO E E
E LL N

买手店、商场和电商销售,覆盖了欧洲、北美、

IN
念 性 设 计 的 羽 绒 服 品 牌,例 如 Ienki Ienki、
国际市场,羽绒服开始在时尚秀场上大放异彩,

E LU IG CO C
N

X E

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C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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TE X E E IN L
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN L
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LL E N IG C
丽 华
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N

TE X E E IN LL E
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IN LU IG CO C

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7
TE
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
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X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

X

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IG CO C E E
N

E LL

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时间
N IG CO

X E

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TE X E E
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L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
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LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E

品牌
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN

Studios
TE

Khrisjoy
C

SØSKEN
IG CO E E

Ienki Ienki
N

TE UX E LL

Chen Peng

E IN
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X E

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N
LU IG CO C

X E

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N/A

IN

陈鹏
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TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

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C E E

现任品牌创意总监
IG CO
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Dmitriy Ievenko

E LL

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X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
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TE UX E LL

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Pugh、 Christian Dior 以及 Harrods 积累



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乐于穿着的服装上,从“河豚夹克”细分品类

X E

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C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N


IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
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L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
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LL E N IG CO

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X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
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LU IG CO C
品牌定位/定价区间

LL E

X E

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N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E L
定位:提出One-Size Fashion(平均

E IN
E
定位:弥合时装的艺术性与功能性,将

LL N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E IN LL E
四家定位于概念性设计的羽绒服品牌,创始背景/定价区间一览

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LL N

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

IN
1.1万

1.8万
1.7万

C
7.9万

LU IG CO
N

X E

TE
粉丝数

C E E
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IN
Instagram

LU IG CO C

8

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

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IG CO C E E
N

X E L
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C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
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IG CO C
TE UX
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E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

2004年1月

E

2004年1月
LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

作用。
L

IN
IG CO C

热度随时间变化趋势

E

热度随时间变化趋势
TE UX
E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E

对比可见:
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE

2009年1月1日
C E

2009年1月1日
E LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN

2016年以后急剧上升
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
E
1)Down Jacket:为羽绒服的通称;

LL N

IN LU IG CO C

X E

2014年1月1日
TE
E IN L

2014年1月1日
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE

上图:2004/1/1-2019/12/31,Puffer
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

上图:2004/1/1-2019/12/31,Down Jacket

TE X E

谷歌搜索热度变化:2016年以后上升趋势明显
E E IN L
LL N

IN TE U
C

Jacket
谷歌搜索热度变化:2016年之前几乎无起伏,
LU IG CO

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
2019年1月1日
IG CO C

2019年1月1日

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
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E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L
2)Puffer Jacket:河豚夹克 / 面包服,羽绒服的一种款式,近年来兴起的热词。

E E
LL N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN
Down Jacket

TE UX
LU C E
2014/1/1-2019/12/31 “Down Jacket”、“Puffer Jacket”在谷歌的搜索热度趋势

Puffer Jacket
IG CO
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

2015年左右是设计型小众品牌诞生的集中期,Puffer Jacket 一词的搜索热度在


2016年以后急剧上升,由此可见小众设计的羽绒服品牌对于消费者关注的推动
X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

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C E E
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IN LU C

9
IG CO

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
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E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E

跨界联名
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN

可持续创新
产品与销售
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN LU C

当下和未来
LL E N IG CO

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU C

羽绒服品牌的
IG CO

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
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E IN
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X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
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TE UX E LL

E IN
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X E

TE
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LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN L
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LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN LL E
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X

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X E

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IN LU IG CO C

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

X

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N

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C

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丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
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E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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IN TE UX
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TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

素。
LL

X

TE
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E LL

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等)。
N IG CO

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
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IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E

跨界联名
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
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LU IG CO

X

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N

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X E

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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
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验、以及未来羽绒服品牌将向何处去?

LL

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E LL E

「华丽案例」Moncler将跨界联名产品化
E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C
羽绒服品牌的当下和未来

E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

项目。

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
C

项目的形式在线下与线上同步发售。
LU IG CO E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN
而近年来,有更多羽绒服品牌(包括部分将羽绒品类作为重点之一的非羽绒品牌)联结时

异的 8~12 个系列。每一个系列单独以月度
8~12 位设计师 / 创意人合作,发布风格迥
2018 年 至 今,Moncler 已 连 续 三 年 与
但像 Moncler Genius(天才计划)这样规

名企划,堪称时尚界最具标杆意义的合作
设计师与品牌,展开完整且持续的大型联
模量级的案例却非常罕见。通过联结当红
总结,由此我们可以看到,羽绒服品牌在时尚领域吸睛的原因、在商业上大获成功的经

尚行业炙手可热的设计师、创意人,在保持品牌DNA的基础上,不断为产品注入创新元
跨界联名,在时尚行业并非新鲜事。但以往联名的主体更多是潮牌,或基础品类(如T恤

LU C

11
IG CO
在本报告重点研究的21个羽绒服品牌中,我们将其中表现最突出的部分品牌亮眼案例梳理


TE X E
虽然今天跨界联名在时尚界早已成为常态,
E E
LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E

示:
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
E N

师的过度
LL
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L

的传统印象
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
E LU

牌季节性限制
LL N IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN LU C

服品牌单品类限制
N IG CO

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
E

Moncler Genius 2019/2020


LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

费者之间更深的良性互动

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
C E

新锐设计师、生活方式设计
潮牌设计师,开始呈现出向
IG CO E

• 联名对象从最初的奢侈、
• 联名成功促成了品牌与消
N

E LL

E IN
C

• 通过与顶尖创意人才的合
• 多元化产品线,打破羽绒
• 每月上新,打破羽绒服品
作项目为我们带来了如下的启
单就羽绒服品牌而言,这一合

LU

作,打破羽绒服在人们心中
N IG CO

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

E
数百万欧元的 EMV( 媒体价值 )。

X

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
E
这种交流方式的人提供了新的活力。

LL N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C
年轻的受众会更开放,但 Genius 也为不习惯

IG CO
Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini
Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini
了品牌知名度,提升了线上线下流量,创造了
Moncler 14.2 亿欧元年销售的一小部分,但这
尽 管 Moncler Genius 带 来 的 销 售 仅 占 到

个项目更大的意义在于营销层面 —— 它提高

12

TE X E E
E
反响最活跃的是日本及整个亚洲市场。当然,
Moncler Genius 是一个长期项目。总体而言,

LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

IN

尽显
E LU IG CO C
N

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN
C

品牌
计师
LU IG CO

TE X E

造型师
设计师
E E
N

部设计师
LL
L

IN
C

新锐设计师
奢侈品牌设
IG CO

Moncler 内

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
C

标令其疯狂传播
LU IG CO

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E IN

3、(Moncler Palm Angels)


E E
LL N

IN

/
/
/
/
/
LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L

2、(Moncler Fragment Hiroshi


E E
LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
C

品巧妙地转变,并赋予它们受万众追
粹的形态。在形式反映本源时,纯粹
LU

英国设计师
IG CO

英国设计师

TE X E LL E

1、(Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli)将


E IN

Craig Green

Karl Templer
LL E N
LU IG CO

Simone Rocha

X

TE
C E

Valentino 创意总监
IG CO E
Pierpaolo Piccioli
N
Sandro Mandrino


E LL

E IN

Francesco Ragazzi
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

藤原浩(Hiroshi Fujiwara)

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L

/
/
/
/

E E
LL N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
E I

英国设计师
英国设计师
英国设计师
LL N

L

IN

1、(Moncler 1952 )Veronica


TE UX
C

Craig Green
IG CO

TE UX E LL E
Moncler Genius 联名对象

Richard Quinn
Simone Rocha
E IN LU
Sergio Zambon

Valentino 创意总监

N IG CO
Pierpaolo Piccioli

LL E

X

Sandro Mandrino

TE
Veronica Leoni 和

Matthew Williams
IG CO C Francesco Ragazzi E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
N
藤原浩(Hiroshi Fujiwara)

E LL

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU C

/
/
/
/

IG CO

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU C

Rimowa
IG CO

英国设计师
英国设计师
X E LL E

英国设计师
TE

Mate.Bike
E E IN L IG C
Craig Green
LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
Loewe 创意总监

Richard Quinn
Simone Rocha

LU IG CO E
N
Sergio Zambon


TE X E E IN LL E
Sandro Mandrino

E
Veronica Leoni 和

Matthew Williams

LU

Poldo Dog Couture


LL N IG CO
Jonathan Anderson


X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

藤原浩(Hiroshi Fujiwara)

TE
C E E
E LL N

3、设计师们所展示的作品依旧充斥着
IN LU C

来的「厚重」感,在设计上的发展性也
IG CO

13

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E

零售体验
E E
L
LL N

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E

1. 强调功能性价值
E LL N

E IN LU C

Canada Goose
N IG CO
产品与销售


X E

TE
C E E

验产品的功能性。
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
E LU

在零下 25-20 摄氏度的

Goose 产品的温暖,并检
浸式体验空间。顾客可以
寒风凛冽、冰墙雪地的沉
LL N IG CO

X

寒冷环境中感受 Canada 
TE
IG CO C E E

Cold Room(极寒试衣间)
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N 一、门店:场景搭建和产品陈列

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C
费者的购物清单,成为了每个品牌的最大挑战。


X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
E N

「华丽案例」Canada Goose/波司登/ Mackage


LL

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE

未来零售的领军者。
C E E
E LL N

IN
打造更逼真的门店体验,让终端门店成为讲故事的重要窗口。

LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
C E

术品和家具,而极寒试衣间也是其中之一。
IG CO
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN

Canada Goose CEO Dani Reiss


Canada Goose CEO Dani Reiss
方式正在改变,Canada Goose 希望能够成为
体验对零售而言至关重要。如今,顾客的购物

2016 年我们开设第一家店以来,我们在每个

立 60 年的档案、加拿大制作的设计产品、艺
费者发现我们更深层次的故事。这包括品牌成
门店内都着力力推出各类沉浸式元素,邀请消
讲故事是我们与消费者互动的核心部分,自

14
LU IG CO C
数品牌优化线下门店的首要切入点。通过植入科技互动装置和各类沉浸式元素,品牌希望
限于季节性产品的限制,如何教育引导消费者关注并购买羽绒服,让羽绒服在春夏进入消

保暖、抗寒、挡风,这是羽绒服的基础实用价值,从宣传羽绒服的“功能性”入手,是多
虽然 Moncler 等诸多品牌都在对旗下品类进行“全季化”,但是羽绒服这一单品本身仍受


TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN

并购买。
TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N
波司登


IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E IN L

极寒体验舱
E E
LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
E N

在Moncler的门店中,轻薄夹

者购买裙子、短装时将羽绒服一
强调整体搭配的美感,吸引消费
成一件可以搭配的单品来对待。
起亮相,消费者可以把羽绒服当
克、羽绒背心与连衣裙、短装一
LL

IN

度可达零下 15 度。顾客可以随时
参照爱斯基摩冰屋设置,最低温
LU IG CO C

TE X E

拿起波司登羽绒服实测御寒能力。
E E IN L
LL N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
C

2. 增强时尚设计属性、强调整体搭配美感
LU IG CO
LL E N

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

「华丽案例」Moncler/ Khrisjoy/ Ienki Ienki



X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

绒服的“功能性”和“季节性”属性,增强了时尚性。

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C
mackage

LL E

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C
当代滑雪度假小屋


TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E
LL E N IG C
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C E
屋般的木质墙面营造温暖氛围。

N

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N
象,而暖色调灯光搭配现代滑雪小
转冰山》作品勾勒出冰天雪地的景
小屋:著名摄影师 Alex Cornell《翻
将 150 平米的空间打造成一座滑雪

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

上图:Moncler 新加坡滨海湾金沙旗舰店

IN LU IG CO C
店内其它全季品类服装配饰摆放在一起,并通过在门店引入其他时尚艺术元素,减弱了羽
主打概念性设计的小众羽绒服品牌通常入驻于全球买手店、精品店。在单品陈列上,多和

15

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

X E L
LL
C

E IN
丽 华 丽
丽 华
LL E N G O C
IG CO C
TE UX
E E
E LL E N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N
L

IN
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
C

上图:Khrisjoy
IG CO E E
N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

上图:Ienki Ienki
TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
N

E LL

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N
丽 华
IN TE UX
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN LL E
LL E N
LU IG CO

L X

IN TE
C E

上图:Moncler Genius House 东京快闪店


IG CO E N

TE UX E LL

E IN
LL E N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
E LL N

IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL E N

IN TE U
LU IG CO C

TE X E E IN L
LL
LL E N I

L

IN TE UX
IG CO C

TE UX
E E IN LU
LL E
LL E N IG CO

X

TE
IG CO C E E
E LL N

E IN
N
LU IG CO C

X E

TE
C E E
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IN LU IG CO C

TE X E E
LL E N

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从单一产品扩展到多品类

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绒”(保暖而轻薄)、独创填充技术
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早在 2009 年就 Moncler 推出仅
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在品类上,Moncler 以羽绒服为核
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心,并围绕羽绒服开发了相关产
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天推出新品,是一个巨大的挑战。

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如何让一个以六个月为周期上新的供应链,能够适应每个月甚至每

Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini



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上图:Moncler 超轻羽绒外套

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式可提振淡季销售。

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IP联名+“Drop式”上新


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成功,顺利达到预期指标。”
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“Moncler Fragment” 系列。


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本 潮 流 教 父 藤 原 浩 合 作 的
售方式,为品牌提升了曝光度:每

评 价:“Moncler Genius 项 目 的
报后的电话会议中,Remo Ruffini
在 Moncler 发布 2018 上半财年财
Moncler Genius 联名系列及其销
cler Genius,并以“Drop 式”上新
2018年,Moncler 首次启动Mon-

开始上新,首个上新的系列是与日
流量明显增加。同时每月上新的方
当一个新的系列推出后,门店的客

首个系列就在各大市场和渠道大获
方式销售,即:全年按月上新不同

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从 2018 年 6 月(正值盛夏来临)
以 第 一 季 Moncler Genius 为 例,
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Moncler Grenoble
11月
Simone Rocha
Moncler 1952 和
9月
和 Noir
Pierpaolo Piccioli
7月


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8月

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Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini


Genius 项目给我们带来了很多启发,使我们重新定义了沟通、生

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Craig Green

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http://luxecozhiku.mikecrm.com/ftul87r

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(以 Moncler Genius 2018年第一季为例)

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欢迎扫码,与我们互动。
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代表品牌:
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代表品牌:
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护者的指责。
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新推出的可持续品

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c.用新型填充材料完全替代传统羽绒;

Save the Duck


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羽绒服品牌在可持续方面的创新举措主要集中在:
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· 羽绒的回收再利用:Ciesse Piumini / REPLUMÈ


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Saldarini 1882
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例如,由于选用皮草和羽绒等动物原材料制作服装,一些知名品牌受到了激进动物权益保
在全球势不可挡的可持续浪潮下,以鹅绒、鸭绒为主要填充材料的羽绒服品牌面临挑战。

续为创始理念的新锐品牌涌现,像意大利 Save the Duck、意大利REPLUMÈ 这样的可持


华丽智库一直以来建有 “全球可持续时尚数据库” 并长期跟踪研究,随着越来越多以可持

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由 Carlo Saldarini 1882


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技术
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· 用新型填充材料完全替代传统羽绒:Save the Duck / Saldarini 1882

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20
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近年来,Canada
最多的 Moncler 产

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Moncler率先开拓中
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Canada Goose CEO Dani Reiss
绝对主力,因此我们面临的最大挑战,是

的发展空间。多年来我们看到了中国消费
Canada Goose 在中国市场依然拥有极大
Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini
如何在未来保证自己能够出现在中国消费
中国将会成为全球奢侈品市场未来增长的

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2018年,在纽约时装周期间举办品牌时装秀。

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2019 年 11 月,波司登发布与法国设计大师 Jean Paul


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2018 年 10 月,波司登发布与美国、法国、意大利三
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“羽绒服时尚化”的全球性趋势同步。本报告以波司登、艾莱依、chenpeng为例。

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在中国本土,一批新老羽绒服品牌也跃跃欲试,努力抓住这个细分品类新的成长机遇,与


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通过重新聚焦羽绒服,从产品、营销、渠道三个维度进行时尚化改造、升级品牌形象,波

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2017年,波司登确立全新战略定位——全球热销的羽绒服专家;2018年,波司登正式宣

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虚拟试衣镜;提供智能搭配服务等。
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2015 年,与明星设计师张帅推出联名系列

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2019 年,与马兰戈尼学院(年轻设计师)发布
2019 年,与 法 国 知 名 设 计 师 Christelle 发 布

2017年,引入智慧零售门店,打造场景化、智能
在集团创立之初确立的“时尚羽绒”的品牌定位

在设计上不断创新,例如通过与IP、设计师的联

化、互动化和具有体验感的终端店铺。新门店
内,数字屏幕取代传统形象墙;配备虚拟货架和
下,找到最能体现羽绒时尚特色的标志性款式。

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结构布局:入驻更多主流商圈,与万达、银

截至2019年9月30日,波司登品牌羽绒服零售
泰、印力、凯德等核心商业体开展更多合作。
Thomas Clement 合作,重新设计终端形象,优
门店形象:“千店换门头”,与法国顶级设计师

2016 年,与环球影业合作推出 “小黄人” 系列,


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2017/2018

2016/2017
2018/2019


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【财务表现】

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16.90%

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2019年,艾莱依宣布新的品牌战略转型策略。从产品设计、店铺体验、品牌故事等多个
2017年,艾莱依继续推动“全季女装”策略,在羽绒服以外,探索四季女装、生活方式品

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Market /Opening Ceremony/IT- CHINA 等。


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CHENPENG(羽绒服)
化和地域上的分别。产品造型轮廓夸张,颜色鲜艳,糅合当代流行元素,辨识度高。

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设计师品牌 CHENPENG 由于其概念性的时尚设计,吸引了海内外时尚人士的关注,也

创始人陈鹏硕士毕业于伦敦时装学院男装设计专业,同年保送英国皇家艺术学院。在赴
伦敦读书之前便有创立品牌的决心,在此前7年的化妆师经验为他打开了时尚圈的人脉和
成为中国本土品牌跨界合作的热门选择,合作对象包括时尚品牌(如李宁,GXG)和消

目前在全球17个国家的100多家买手店、商场和电商销售,例如:SSENSE/Dover Street
提倡 One-Size Fashion(平均时尚主义):没有高矮胖瘦之分,年龄性别之差,没有文

25

TE X E E
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IN TE UX
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的融资与上市
LL

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TE X E E IN L
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丽 华
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五家羽绒服品牌
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近年获得外部投资的
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Moncler 和 Canada Goose



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E

的投资与并购
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亿美元。

TE X E E
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的融资与上市
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在中国市场的增长势头。
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Moncler 市值约为 85 亿欧元。


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Goose 销 售 额 的 年 均 复 合 增 长 率 达 到 了

年 4 月 22 日,Canada Goose 市值约为 24


续持有 Canada Goose 的控股权。截至 2020
行业 29 个月的 IPO 荒。IPO 之后,Bain 仍继
2017 年 2 月,Canada Goose 在纽约证交所
度。从 2014 财 年 到 2016 财 年,Canada
Bain 承诺将继续坚持 Canada Goose 在加拿
2013 年,美国私募基金 Bain Capital 以 2.5
得 了 满 意 的 回 报。目 前,Remo Ruffini 已 重
旗下基金 Progressio 、中国 IDG 资本等都获
金 —— Eurazeo、Carlyle、印 度 米 塔 尔 集 团
达到 25 亿欧元。先后投资 Moncler 的私募基
行量的 31 倍,最后募资约 7.85 亿欧元,市值
2013 年 12 月,Moncler 在米兰证交所成功上
股份。Eurazeo 直言此举是就是看好 Moncler
司 主 席 Remo Ruffini 个 人 手 中 购 买 了 45%
从当时的第一大股东、私募基金 Carlyle 和公
资公司 Eurazeo SA 慷慨解囊,以 4.2 亿欧元
Moncler 在最后关头放弃了 IPO 计划。法国投

市,金融市场反响空前强烈,认购需求达到发

和多伦多证交所同时上市,打破了当时奢侈品
大制造,同时加大了品牌在全球的市场营销力
E LL N

IN
Moncler 和 Canada Goose

E LU C

38.3%,净利润年均复合增长率更高达 196%。
亿 美 元 收 购 了 Canada Goose 70% 股 权。
回第一大股东的位置。截至 2020 年 4 月 22 日,
2011 年 6 月,受 不 景 气 的 经 济 环 境 影 响,

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