AIR Modeller 78 2018

AIR 78 cover.
qxp_Layout 1 10/05/2018 11:51 Page 1
78
JUNE/JULY 2018 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
JUNE /JULY 2018
MENG AIR MODELLER
MICHEL GRUSON BUILDS

THE EDUARD ART SERIES P-47D
AIR 78 june / july 2018.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 11/05/2018 14:47 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 ‘Ready to Go’
Dali Xu describes his 1:48 F/A18 Hornet scene.
12 Supermarine Walrus Part 2

Master modeller Megas Tsonos concludes his build of the new 1:48 Airfix kit.
28 P-47D
Eduard’s edition of the 1:32 Hasegawa kit modelled by Michel Gruson
28 Bella Ballila part 4

The Editor continues his build of the Aviattic 1:32 Ansaldo A.1
34 HKP9 Tank Hunter

Albert Tureczek breathes new life into the vintage 1:48 Esci kit
42 Okha
The RB Production 1:32 flying bomb modelled by Florin Silaghi
50 Air Borne
New releases.
58 Birdcage Corsair
Kevin Futter takes on the challange of reworking the 1:32 Trumpeter kit
with a heap of aftermarket parts.
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1
DAL I XU’S HASEGAWA F18 IS ‘READY TO GO’
F/A-18F
2
1:48
The Boeing F-18 Hornet Strike Fighter (F/A-18) was developed
for the U.S. Navy as a carrier-based, multipurpose supersonic
fighter. It is also the first American military model with both
fighter and attack aircraft roles.
F/A-18 belongs is a third generation fighter and has excellent
air to air, ground to ground and sea attack capability. As the
most important carrier aircraft in the United States Navy the
F/A-18 is widely used. The aircraft was first trialled in 1978
and entered service in the United States Navy in 1983. On
July 28th 2006 the F-14 Tomcat fighter was retired and the
F/A-18 became the only carrier fighter aircraft.
SUPERHORNET
3
In order to increase the details of the model and save some time, I
used the Aires resin cockpit and cabin. Because these two resin
modifications are very tight in the internal space of the kit, care
should be taken to carefully sand and polish the joints between the
kit parts and resin modifications, just enough to slide a piece of
paper between the two ensures there’s room for adhesive. To paint
the cockpit, first MR.HOBBY C317 was airbrushed overall, then
Vallejo Air black to the instrument panel and the dashboard cover.
Thin layers of diluted white were gradually built-up to highlight the
shapes and detail. Since the cockpit is only a small part of the
aircraft after being fitted in place it is necessary to improve the
colour contrasts to emphasize the detail and pick out the various
controls with strong red and yellow acrylics. This same thought
process has been applied to the ejector seats with the khaki pads
receiving strong highlights. Some gentle dry brushing finally picked
out some of the more subtle detail offered by the delicate Aires
moulding.
Canopy refinement
The first step was to carefully sand the clear part with #800,
#1200 and #3000 sandpaper. Next was polishing in order of
coarse mesh, fine mesh and finished with polishing paste. Pay
attention to the process of polishing, be very patient if you’ve
never attempted this process before, ensure that the grades
of polishing are worked through in order and you’ll find the
results are worth it.
The canopy required a slight tint which was done with Tamiya
transparent colours very gradually, a final polish with fine paste
gives an even finish.The transparent part of the hatch cover
was masked and then a black sprayed on the frame (to be
viewed from inside) followed by the grey at a later stage. The
Aires frame details were painted separately and added.
4
The Aires wheel wells require more surgery

but the extra work is worth it.
Various grades of wire were used to add
plumbing to the landing gear with some
photoetch clips put to use. Staining and
chipping was added to the white base coat
and self adhesive mirror foil adds a realistic
touch as do the maintenance placard
decals.
Fuselage and wing assembly is straight The ECS plate on the kit is an early version
forward with the usual care and filling around replaced by a later type resin modification.
joints required. The raised lip around the base Once happy with all of the surfaces and joints
of the windshield was created with a strip of it was time to get painting with an allover
plastic card then blended to the correct application of white. To attempt to replicate
shape with filler. the sometimes heavily weathered carrier
The anti-slip areas were created aircraft finish many subtle layers are required
with fine sandpaper (200 grade). and also the ‘salt’ technique, using course,
First cut the sandpaper to shape damp salt as a random masking barrier. This
and thin-out the back of the paper is easily removed and contributes to the
as far as possible to leave only the realistic random effects.
sand and bonding agent to be fixed in
place.
17
5
Above the effect of the salt masking and post shading

can be seen. It’s important to build gradual layers
patiently and vary the tones of grey.
With the mottles of grey complete it was time to add
some dark washes to the panel lines and create more
surface variation and staining with oil paint washes,
black, burnt umber and yellow ochre were used very
diluted and again, gradually built-up in subtle layers.
In several key parts of fuselage (such as wing folding

joints, tail and wing root), grey and brown oil paints were
applied and blended with satisfactory results.
In the lower part of the fuselage more staining was done
with the oil colours, the beauty of using oils is that the
remain workable for a long period of time and are easily
removed if required.
The use of luminous stickers instead of paint for the
marker strips adds a nice touch to the model when
viewed in low-light.
Time now for final fitting; the landing gear, the landing
gear doors, the fuel tank, the horizontal tail wing and the
vertical tail are all added to the fuselage very carefully.
6
As I was keen to replicate a particular With my F-18 firmly cemented in place I

photo some modifications to available could position the figures and add the fine
resin figures was required. Tian Li (a tether chains and wheel chocks.
Chinese manufacturer) and Aires figures I’m happy with the finished display, the
were re-posed with wire and putty then compact plinth base presents the scene
finished in acrylics and oil colours. well and there is a satisfying likeness to
the ‘Ready to Go’ photograph.
For the carrier deck the mooring points
and chains were modified with etched
parts and added to the rough deck floor
created with plastic card and sandpaper.
The size and spacing of the mooring holes
was calculated and drilled. Diluted putty
was then used to fill any joints and
brushed in wide strokes to replicate some
wear to the deck surface.
7
F/A-18F
8
9
1:48
12
Supermarine
Walrus PA RT T WO
We left the completed assembly in the previous
issue, this time
Megas Tsonos
explains the treatment of the engine and
painting and finishing of his wonderful Walrus.
13
1 2 3
5 6
4
7
ENGINE
The Walrus Pegasus engine is in itself a model and, as it is not cowled, presents a
unique opportunity for extreme detailing. The Airfix engine is correct in diameter and
proportions. Some detailing is missing though but it can be left as is for the modeller 8
wanting a basic replica of it. Being obsessed with engines, I went for more and I made
use of the advantages of a Vector resin Pegasus which helped a lot to end up with a
lifelike engine on my Walrus model. The Vector engine is smaller in diameter, naturally
enough as it has to be cowled in most cases, but its cylinder dimensions are the same
as Airfix’s, so I mated the Airfix crankcase to the Vector cylinders thus preserving in the
correct diameter.
10
I cut away and disposed of the cylinders The Vector intake manifolds pic 6 were II ALC-101 Aluminium, darkened with ALC-
pic 1 leaving the crankcase intact. glued in position. 115 Stainless Steel.
I removed the pushrods pic 2 leaving only Soldering wire pic 7 was shaped to form A coating in White Ensign Models ACS04
their base on the pushrod case. The Vector the exhaust outlets, their presence on WW2 Soviet VVS AII/AMT Black (any other
cylinders were glued onto the Airfix most Walruses being overlooked by Airfix. semi-gloss black can obviously do the job!)
crankcase. A note here that these outlets let the pic 9, was followed by a careful removal of
The Airfix fuel/air manifolds were separated exhaust gases escape through slots on the paint in a wash-like manner to reveal
from their manifold case, the latter their sides, so no openings are to be found the cylinders cooling fins and the unpainted
cemented in place at the rear of the at their ends as might have been portion of the intakes.
crankcase pic 3. expected. The exhausts were cemented on In pic 10 the carburettor air intake made
The cylinder cooling deflectors were made the cylinder heads and the carburettor hot from a piece of thick plasticard, found its
of plasticard pic 4 and glued in place. air intake taken from the Airfix engine was place on the rear of the engine block
Although present on the Airfix engine, they married to the exhausts constructed painted to match the colour of the rest,
are absent on the Vector one! previously. and the engine was finished with the hot
The Eduard photoetched brass part The engine was sprayed in Mr. Hobby Mr. air intake supports (seen as semicircular
imitating the ignition harness pic 5 was put Surfacer 1200 pic 8 and when dry was tubes around the lowermost cylinders).
14 in place. given two light coats of a mixture of Alclad
13
11 12
Last but not least, the propeller was given my attention with some thinning
to be done here as well pic 11.
Following its thinning, the tips were painted yellow, masked over, and the
blades were painted in Tamiya’s XF-69 NATO Black. The area surrounding
the propeller boss was masked pic 12 and the boss was simply rubbed
gently with a soft cloth with just a touch of SnJ Spray Metal polishing
powder on it.
In pic 13 the propeller is seen finished with all masks removed and oil
stains applied using artists’ oil colours. The propeller sides facing the engine
exhausts were additionally treated with pastels to simulate the exhaust
marks on them.
The engine minus its propeller was installed in place well after painting pic
14, as the nacelle front and rear sides were needed to hold the model
14
during the painting process.
PAINTING
17
15 16
I painted my Walrus in what could operating with 278 Squadron, RAF in the weathering mixing with light grey shades,
euphemistically be called an official ASR role. Invasion stripes painted and still taking care not to get outside the colour
camouflage pattern. Well, there surely was discernible under its lower wings and envelope.
one but in the field, over the years and planing bottom indicated serving well after The painting was done using an Iwata
under conditions prevailed at the time, the the order to dispense with them was Custom Micron B airbrush, in four steps,
end result was rather mixed. So I selected issued. Possibly cleaned or overpainted on the application of the underside sky colour
one Walrus, serialled W2766, its its topsides W2766 presented a good pic 15 being the first one.
photograph printed in page 179 of the example of a well-weathered specimen of The second step was the painting of the
excellent book ‘British Flying Boats’, written the very useful machine the Walrus was. lower wing uppersurfaces, the wing leading
by Peter London, Sutton Publishing, 2003. The colours I used for the camouflage edges duly masked as seen in pics 16
W2766 was an ex-Royal Navy machine, came from Xtracolor; the brand provides and 17. I used bare metal foil to mask and
retaining its ‘Royal Navy’ stencilling above the complete set of the five colours protect the area of the roundels before
its serial number even though at the time comprising the ‘shadow shading’ scheme. I proceeding to the next step.
the photograph was taken, the aircraft was only altered the colours for scale effect and
15
18 19
20 21
The upper wing topside, and the empennage pics 18 and 19 were then painted, the
roundel masks removed and some spraying was done inside the disks to avoid the
formation of a paint ‘step’ on the roundel edges.
The windscreen framework was painted in interior grey-green pic 20, prior to the next
step, which was the masking and painting of the nacelle upper half pic 21, and hull
pic 22.
Pic 23 shows the completed painting along with the darker areas of the ‘previously 22
painted’ invasion stripes. The white areas on the undersides were painted in matt white
only to be gradually and carefully removed by gentle sanding to show the effect of paint
being left to deteriorate pic 24. It must be stressed here that instead of painting the black
stripes, I used the Tamiya Weathering Master (set B), applying the black shade with the
small sponge tool provided in the set.
23 24
25 26 27
16
The roundels were painted next pics 25 yes, eighteen years after I bought it and justified the means. Note that the strips
and 26 while in pic 27 the fin flash and still unaffected by time! painted chordwise are the same paint, but
hull roundels (taken from the decal sheet) Looking at contemporary photos I noticed on clear decal film as masking was out of
are showing their astonishing quality, that the lower wing walkway areas were the question in the area. Washing of the
having behaved well with both Mr. Mark defined by strips which were not as wide model was done with a much thinned
Setter, and Microscale’s Microsol setting as printed in the kit decal sheet. They were mixing of burnt umber and ivory black
solutions used on them. To make them also somewhat different in shape, surely artists oil colours. Next, I airbrushed the
conform to the wing roundels I gently conforming to structural members beneath model in Xtracolor XDFF Matt Varnish,
brushed their red areas with a dull red the skin, and not black but a lighter colour, hereby ending the painting process.
colour. I made the ‘MY-H’ code letters from when compared with the ‘shoeprint’ Additional shading in lighter shades was
clear decal strips painted light grey, and I stencilling directly in front of them. So, it done with the Tamiya Weathering Master
used my faithful Modeldecal Set No36A took some hours of patient masking spent (sets A, B, E), as a follow up to the matt
aftermarket decal sheet for the ‘Royal on the wings ending in a ten-minute varnishing.
Navy’ and the serial number letter/digits, painting in a dark grey colour but the end
28 29 30
FINAL DETAILS
Along with the weathering process, and in the spare time between
the various painting steps, the rest of details were modelled.
Starting with the mainwheels, I replaced the kit wheels with the
Eduard Brassin set, having spent 7.5 Euros only to see the Dunlop
logo on my models’ wheels! and I even corrected the wheels by
reversing their flat spot angle pic 28 with thin plasticard as the flat
spot given was more akin to a Messerschmitt 109 than a Walrus.
The rear turret cover was also reworked. I thinned down the folding
section and replaced the interior framework with a thinner one
made of Evergreen strips pics 29 and 30.
The hold-open cables and their troughs, a detail missed by both
Airfix and Eduard, were modelled at this point and the interior was
given its grey-green colouring. A transparency was cut from thin
acetate, glued in place and masked with the Eduard masks pic
31. The assembly was then painted in the camouflage colours.
The sliding hood in the kit I had in hand was found to be warped
and replaced by a clear acetate piece into which the interior
31 32 framework was incorporated pics 32 and 33.
In pic 34 the sliding hood is seen into place, along with some
more details such as the pilots’ rear view mirror and the
windshield wipers; the latter are moulded by Airfix as part of the
windshield detail. I did not want to even risk marring the
impeccable clarity of the windshield by painting, so I made new
wipers instead.
The Eduard bomb carriers were cemented into place pic 35. Note
also the black stripes made by rubbing the black colour powder
from Tamiya Weathering Master (set B).
Many minor details are now modelled such as the long wave
aerials pic 36, the fuel tank vents and the ASV arrays pic 37 on
the wing leading edges, to name but a few. On W2766 the ASV
arrays on the top wing are seen retained contrary to the strut-
mounted ones which were removed as the flying boat changed
role.
33 34
35 36 37
17
CONCLUSION
The Walrus kit was turned into a faithful model of

the real warplane. I enjoyed every part of it, and
the build gave me ample satisfaction fulfilling
once again my liking for research into areas
hitherto obscure. Experience showed that as
new data comes to light, and the production of
good kits like the Airfix Walrus is always
accelerating this, future models of the Walrus will
be even more accurate in the future. As for now
all I have to add are my congratulations to
www.seawings.co.uk and Mr. Bryan Ribbans for
a remarkable site offering lots of information
everyone wishing to build the Airfix model cannot
do without.
18
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Supermarine Walrus & Stranraer, James

Kightly and Roger Wallsgrove, Mushroom
Model Publications, 2004.
A.P. 1515A: The Walrus I & II Aeroplane

Manual, (issued by the Air Ministry, 1938).
Supermarine Walrus I and Seagull Variants,

David Brown, Profile Publications Ltd., 1971
Supermarine Walrus, Allan Hall and Ray

Sturtivant, Warpaint series No38, Warpaint
Books Ltd.
British Flying Boats, Peter London, Sutton

Publishing, 2003.
The Supermarine Walrus, G.W.R. Nicholl

O.B.E., R.N., Morrison and Gibb, 1966.
19
This kit from the Eduard’s ‘Art’ range is in fact the

superb Hasegawa kit, enhanced with Brassin
resin goodies, photo etch and Kabuki masks.
The superlative box art is the work of the French
aviation comic book illustration master Romain
Hugault, and from the three proposed markings
included I was instantly attracted by the huge
wolf’s head displayed on the ‘Jug’ of Lt James R.
Hopkins, 509th FS, 405 Th. FG, 9th AF, in
Orphoven, Belgium in March 1945...Whoooooo!
20
21
The whole cockpit area is A very light

painted with a mixture of Gunze H- dry-brushing brings
302 with a drop of X-14 Blue from Tamiya the details to life
to get the closest possible match to the dull followed by a coat of
dark green used by the Republic factory. matt varnish.
Details are picked out with a fine brush and acrylics before
spraying a coat of gloss varnish, followed by a wash of both
black and sienna oil colours.
Brake lines were added

using the correct diameter
soldering wire, then Rub’n
Buff was brushed onto the
landing gear legs. Brown and
black pigments are used to give
depth and aluminium tape makes
a perfect oleo finish.The beautiful
Brassin resin wheels are a joy to
paint, the detail really pops out
with some washes.
Before the wing assembly, the wheel wells are fitted with wire to
simulate the plumbing, soldering wire is my choice for that, then
the whole area is painted in Tamiya XF4 and weathered with
washes and pigments. A quick dry fit showed some plastic card
work to adjust the various steps around the panels was required,
a simple enough task.
22
To improve the engine details, the ignition system was scratch

built using my trusty soldering wire. The engine block colour is
Neutral Grey while the cylinders are black with aluminium
heads completed with the usual washes to give the Pratt and
Whitney the war-weary look but still well maintained and ready
for action.
The big step with any aircraft build;

closing the fuselage. Dry fits showed no
major alignment issues and the cockpit
detail looked nice and busy.
Fit of the main components is Ok but, nevertheless, putty will be

necessary. I make my own filler by dissolving plastic sprues with
Tryclo (Trichloroethylene is an industrial chemical and wearing a
face mask is essential, liquid modelling cement also works)
providing a brushable ‘filler’ which acts the same as the kit
styrene once dry.
23
The whole model was sprayed with Mr White Surfacer 1000

from Mr Hobby. The purpose of this operation is to obtain an
even surface before starting the painting process. As I’d
decided to paint the main markings first, then mask them from
the base colours, white was a good choice as it would cut-
down on the number of layers of paint.
But before anything else, a light sanding is done using a 6000
grade Micro Mesh. If bare plastic shows through, no worries, it
will work as a pre-shading when the Olive Drab is applied.
Using the masks to paint the U.S.

insignia is quite fun, although it appears
to be the reverse to the usual a good
strong white over the green would
require many coats and result in an
‘edge’. The finished results are more
pleasing than decals.
Because you can apply
shading and highlighting to the
markings, the appearance
harmonises with the rest of the paint
finish. Here for example I have used Blue
H-35,H-42 and X-23 (translucent blue) The
underside will be in a much darker shade than
the one on the top side of the wing which will be
lighter. This is where the white base does its job,
helping you control the shade of your paint.
Once this is done, markings will be covered with
masks and left in place during the whole
painting process.
Before painting the model, some places are

touched-in with Run’n’Buff using a brush, for the
future chipping. The main colour is the Olive
Drab, but to break the monochromic aspect of
that shade, different colours will be used. All
coats of paint are very diluted and light, building
the tones gradually is the key to success!
I started with Gunze H-81 Khaki applied mainly
on wing roots, armament panels, cowling sides
and top of the fuselage, all those parts effected
by the sun rays. Then using dark green, I
darkened the structure lines.
Using a wooden tooth pick to scratch the paint

where the Rub’n’Buff was applied gave the
chipping effect of worn and scratched paint. Using the same
method for the under
side using H-53 as a
base, many shades of grey
(not 50!) will give life and depth
to your Neutral Grey.
Dark stains are done with
Tamiya Smoke. Riveting is only
in small areas in order to
suggest it.
24
Starting from the P-47’s nose, each horizontal

panel line is sprayed with a dark shade from the
front and lighter shades mottled to give a non-
uniform, faded appearance. I use post-it notes for
this kind of job, and remember just a light mist of
colour will do!
Before applying the decals I buffed smooth the

area where the Wolf’s head will sit. No Future, no
varnish as this would destroy the delicate tone
work of the markings and Olive Drab. Using brush
and airbrush, I did some touch-up of the decal to
better match the background with some gentle
tone-work.
It was time for the

satisfaction (or potential
disaster!) of removing
the masking. All of the
sub-assemblies were
gathered ready for the
final fitting.
25
AK Interactive filters of various tones gave further subtle

disruption to the surface using a fine brush and a small sponge.
Pigments were used on the walking zones and on the wheels.
Matt varnish, Gunze H-20 was applied over any areas I felt had
too much ‘sheen’ and also seal the weathering effects.
So finally we have this huge Thunderbolt with the striking Wolf

Head graphic...Whooooooo! Through the whole process,
the main goal was to give life to Olive Drab and Neutral Grey
which is essential I feel in this large scale. I hope you will give
some of the methods a try, don’t be shy, be a little daring with
colour and try some new effects!
26
27
BUILDING THE AVIATTIC 1:32 ANSALDO A.1
4
MODELLED BY DAVID PARKER
The radiator and canopy parts were primed in Mission Models Gloss Black The paste gives a great aluminium finish with a natural looking tarnish and I
before being painted with Alclad Aluminium and Copper respectively. The couldn’t resist a quick test fit on the fuselage!
Aluminium cowlings were then treated with AK Interactive True Metal
Aluminium paste and polished up.
Moving on with the fuselage I prepared to paint the tail components and as With the parts dry fitted they were then removed and the rear of the fuselage
they are finished the same as the wings in plain linen it made sense to deal was masked in preparation for painting.
with them all at once. I added brass rod pins to mount the moveable
surfaces.
28
I began by applying a white primer coat using Mission Models primer for the The parts were then sprayed with MRP Clear Doped Linen which is quite a
job. pale off white making the transformation a little tricky to see!
There is no escaping the sheer tedium of masking the rib tapes and I spent I then sprayed a very subtle slightly darker tone over the wings and other
some time slicing up strips of tape to the required width and applying them. parts, making the shading on the undersides of the wings slightly stronger.
With the masking removed the result is very subtle.
The underside shows the result more clearly as the contrast is greater. At this Looking at the results the following day I was not entirely happy with the rib
stage I applied a satin varnish and then the large Polish markings which went tape effect, especially on the upper surfaces. I decided to brush paint the
on without a problem although the procedures always deeply worries me! upper tapes with a lighter tone, making a mockery of all that masking! The
part painted lower wing shows the difference.
Still some metal details to add to the wings but for now I put them aside to I returned to the copper radiator with its Alclad finish as I wanted a more
return to working on the fuselage and completing the nose area. tarnished look. I used Uschi Van Der Rosten ‘Blitz Bullet’ metallic paste which
was applied onto the Alclad and buffed with my finger tip to give this effect.
29
It was time to fit the engine and its a tight fit in the fuselage. Although it rests to get this correct. I could also see that it was not seating onto the rails
on the pair of rails on each side of the fuselage there is no front / back correctly with a distinct gap under the engine mounts.
location for it. With the exhausts passing through the cowling it is important
I would have been quite relaxed about the position except that the exhausts Because I was fitting the cowlings I decided to remove the water pump from
must line up with the holes in the cowling, which as this shows they were not. the back of the engine so that I could more easily line it up with the holes in
The kit has obviously been designed to have the cowlings removed and many the cowling and it was then securely glued into place.
of the Polish aircraft operated without the front cowlings but I wanted to have
all the cowlings in position.
The photoetched frame which mounts the radiator was soldered together for I checked the alignment of the nose cross braces and everything was seated
added strength but when it was dry fitted to the nose it was several correctly. I decided I would need to narrow the first brace in order the pull the
millimeters narrower than the nose it was supposed to sit over. nose in but i ended up cutting it away entirely.
I also used a scalpel to shave away and taper the outside edges of the I used some plastic rod to brace the front of the fuselage and pull it together
engine bearers. to the required width.
30
I was now able to successfully fit the radiator frame over the nose! The kit recommends fitting pins into the radiator which would then locate
through the frame but I simply glued it in position on the frame which will
need the chipped paint touching up.
Both cowlings were now dry fitted but the front section was not fitting terribly I could see that there was going to be a gap along the hinge line although
well at this stage. I should say that Aviattic tell me that no one else has had getting the parts to dry fit with any sort of accuracy was not easy, on or off the
these problems so it could well be an operator error on my part. model.
I removed the centre hinge and sliced Before gluing the rear cowling the twin machine guns The muzzles were then glued into place on the
about 1mm wide strips from the front of needed to be fitted. Try as i might, I couldn’t get them insides of the front cowlings.
the centreline join on both cowlings. to line up with the holes in the cowlings so I cut the
barrels and just fitted the breech.
The last piece of cowling was glued in place and

The rear cowling was glued in place and then the Test fitting the final cowling showed a small
treated with hot air to get it to conform better. A
revised front section. My tip if you plan to fit the misalignment so I carefully trimmed the offending
new hinge will be constructed and the exhaust
cowlings is to remove the first 4 exhausts. piece in situ. 31
pipes refitted.
The project continues in the next issue.
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TANK HUNTER
Modelled by
Albert Tureczek
The Bo 105 is a lightweight twin engined helicopter,

purpose-built for the anti-tank role. It has a
revolutionary hingeless rotor system, which enables
it to do aerobatic manoeuvres. It was armed for the
anti-tank role with mostly the Tow missile system.
The rotorhead is a solid titanium cast block, with the
blades bolted on to it, which greatly reduced
maintenance. This gave the helicopter a flight
clearance for 3G and 1G for negative dive. This in
combination with the low weight 1200kg empty and
a maximum take off weight of 2500kg made the
aircraft very agile and well suited for the tank hunter
role. It has been a huge export success for the
company and served in many Armies and Navies
over the world. It made its maiden flight in 1967 and
the production stopped in 2001, being superseded
by the Eurocopter EC 135, after a production of over
1400 aircraft. Many still fly such as the Red Bull Bo
105 with famous Chuck Aaron flying also the film
Sequences for a James Bond 007 production in it.
The Swedish Army took delivery of the type in the
late 80’s and used it in the anti-tank role until 1999.
After that the type was outdated and it was used as
a transport, SAR and for flight training until 2009,
where it was withdrawn from service over all.
34
SWEDISH ARMED FORCES

MESSERSCHMITT BÖLKOW BLOHM MBB 105 1:48
The model kit itself I won at a local model

competition some 25 years ago. Since then
it has been in my stash and it was showing
its age. However, I always had a plan for it
and now I finally realised the conversion into
a Swedish Army HKP 9. I had visited
Swedish bases for many years and always
been fascinated by this particular machine. It
is finished in the special Swedish Splinter
camo pattern and I thought it was the
coolest 105er around. The Swedish
Helicopter is quite different from the ones
used in the German Army and a conversion
was necessary. This was mostly in the
Cockpit and cabin Lay-out and the ECM
and other antenna configuration. Beside
that, I needed to install the cable cutters
and different skids. On top of that the
model needed some serious
workover.
35
BUILDING THE HKP 9 the optical aiming devices for the TOW like a bubble and gives the helicopter its
Building starts with cutting out some air missile launchers. The real aircraft is a distinctive appearance. On the inside of
vents in the fuselage just at the height of small machine and so is the model. The the frame I placed a flight instrument, at
the gearbox, in order to replace them with space inside the cabin is equal to that of a the height of the pilot’s view. Also the top
steel netting. After this the whole attention medium sized car. The rear bulkhead as instrument panel was replaced, fitted with
is directed towards the cabin. Here is also well as the inside of the cabin is fitted with knobs and switches and communication
the biggest difference between the a quilted textile to reduce noise and for equipment. The cables for the headphones
German and the Swedish machines. I comfort. I made the quilt from lead foil, I added from copper wire. Moving on to
discarded the seats and the rear bench which I worked the pattern into using a the center panel, which I also replaced and
seat. The Swedes have a bench seat built toothpick. When placing the piece of lead fitted with switches and gauges. Also the
up from aluminium tube and fabric in the foil on a soft base, like a piece of foam, I flight controls received some attention, like
rear, with the seat belts mounted on the could draw the pattern into the foil by the pitch control, which had a guard rail
rear wall. The pilots seats are also built on applying very little pressure, using the fitted to its base. I made this from copper
an aluminium frame with head rests, very toothpick as a pencil. On completion I wire. With the cabin in place, painted and
similar to those Volvo fitted in their cars at secured them with white glue inside the weathered it was time to close the two
the time. All this I had to build from scratch cabin. For the instruments I used halves. Then the work on the airframe
and I used aluminium plate, evergreen rod aluminium sheet, in which I punched the applications commenced from there,
and sheet, lead foil and copper wire for holes for the gauges with my punch and starting with the external chaff and flare
this. The lay out of the flight instruments is die set from Waldron. The instruments I boxes added to each side of the rear hull
quite different as well with most of the reused from the decal sheet, by simply and extra box added to the rear end of the
flight instruments situated only on the punching them out and placing them on a frame. The purpose of this box is unknown
pilots side, the starboard side. The whole plain styrene sheet behind the punched to me. There are also some sensors
lay out is asymmetric. There are some aluminium foil. After that I placed glass on placed just on top of the cabin on the right
extra gauges placed inside the frame as top of every instrument, which was and left corners, which are also unique to
well. I built this following my subject model, punched out from clear acetate and the Swedish machines. The refueling tube
which I photographed at Göteborg/Säve in fastened with Johnsons wax clear. The on the port side is larger and longer than
2006. At this time the HKP 9 had been switches were made from plastic rod and on standard machines so I had to replace
relieved of its anti-tank role. Therefor the steel or copper wire. I also framed the it.
helicopter was stripped of weapons, and inside of the front windshield, which looks
“People who know me know

that I do this a lot, taking old
kits, no one is really
interested in anymore and
build them up to date”
36
LANDING SKIDS steel mesh, to simulate the antiskid ROTORHEADS & BLADES
The skids were next in line, they had to be surface. They have been reproduced on the I used the kit blades for the main rotor, cut
fitted into the body with plastic pins. I don’t kit parts, but had the wrong dimensions them off and bolted them single hinged
know if the plastic has become too old over and appearance. The landing skids were onto the main rotorhead. I bent the blades
the years, but half of the locator pins broke also fitted with two narrow metal skids on slightly downwards and fitted them with
off during dry fit. I had to replace them all the contact surface and deflectors in the balance weights. I used most of the main
by drilling a piece of copper wire into the front on both sides which I made from rotor head and transmission, but supplied
plastic as a re-enforcement. This of course metal sheet The left side has also a landing the flight controls with tubes from the
was a delicate operation, but a necessary light and a IR camera attached to it. I Albion Alloy range. The rear rotor had to be
one. Thankfully the overall weight of the made those from sheet styrene, an LS lens completely scratchbuilt. It did not resemble
model is not a big concern and it worked plus spare parts from my scrapbox. For the the real one very well. I even found the
out fine. The skids have footsteps for the wiring I used copper cable, and lead foil for blades too thick and replaced them with
pilots access. I made these from metal the mountings. Evergreen sheet styrene, metal foil, Albion
sheet, bent to shape and fitted with a fine slide fit tubes and copper wire.
37
PAINTING AND DECALS

I had decided on the Splinter camo, used on most aircraft from the
Swedish Armed Forces at the time. I drew the pattern on a sheet of
paper using five views, as there is no camo pattern painted on the
bottom. This was a very helpful guide once the painting had started.
Like the Viggens it is not a random pattern but a standardised
scheme. I used pictures from the actual aircraft for this. In
combination with my sketches, this allowed me to transfer the pattern
onto my model. The camo consists of 4 colours and I chose Vallejo’s
AIR acrylic this time. I had not worked with the brand that much before
and it turned out to be a good choice. Painting commenced followed This worked well until I overdid the weathering and got stuck
by quite a lot of taping, masking off one colour at the time. This never with red patches that were too dark, which had lost their
looses its excitement and the big moment always is the removal of the fluorescent appearance. This forced me to repeat the process
tape, revealing the number of corrections needed, or not if you are and ease off on the weathering the this time. The real aircraft
lucky and get it right the first time! This rarely occurs in my experience had worn dayglo patches, which clearly showed staining and
and you have to expect a certain degree of correcting colours in a weathering, but had still not lost their fluorescent effect. The
project like this. After the camo pattern was in place it was time for decals were a mix of lettering, stencils and Swedish national
the special paint applications. I had chosen an aircraft with dayglow markings from my stash. To fix them and to obtain the satin
areas painted on all sides. This is mostly due to its use of pilot training look I used Johnsons Wax clear, or Future if you will. Swedish
I assume. The reason was not to complicate things, which of course it aircraft have a quite worn appearance so weathering comes
did, but simply because I think this looked really cool! I taped the into place here as well. As before mentioned I used Vallejo Air
surrounding areas off and applied flat white as base and Humbrols colours this time. I used 71021,006, 022 and 71019 for the four
Fluorescent orange over it. base colours. For the Hi-Viz patches I used Humbrols Gloss
Blaze 193 and for the blade tips Insignia Yellow 154.
38
FINAL DETAILS
With the painting, decaling and weathering in place it was time for the
final additions to the model, which included the lights, aerials, cable
cutters, antennas, door stoppers, handles, windows including slide
windows and windscreen wipers. Starting with the position and
anti-collision lights my choice were coloured clear Lego parts and Pieces
of clear sprue, shaped drilled and sanded into form and backed with
chrome metal foil. The Windows in the front and rear doors were
replaced all together with clear acetate, incorporating the small slide
widows within. The windscreen wipers are moulded onto the glazed nose
part. I removed those by filing them off and replacing them with
scratchbuilt units, made from stretched sprue. For the various aerials I
used a mix of sheet styrene and metal sheet. The cable cutters were
made out of metal sheet with supports from Albion Alloy aluminium tube.
CONCLUSION
People who know me know that I do this a lot,
taking old kits, no one is really interested in
anymore and build them up to date. It is always a
challenge but great fun when it turns out
successfully. Besides, you can train a lot of the old
school basic modelling skills, which no new kit
requires in quite the same degree. Call me a
plastic masochist, but I love to fight my models in
order to enjoy the sweetness of a small victory in a
world where 3D printers soon will take over our
hobby and turn it into something I am not sure I
like, or maybe it is all because I cannot bring myself
to throw out a perfectly good kit, even if it has been
superceded!
39
FLORIN SIL AGHI

BUILDS THE
RB PRODUCTIONS
1:32 YOKOSUKA
M X Y- 7 T Y P E 2 2
42
Near the end of World War II, Vice Admiral Onishi Takijiro recommended
that the Japanese Navy form special groups of men and aircraft to attack
the American warships gathering to conduct amphibious landings in the
Philippines. The Japanese officials used the word Tokko-tai (Special Attack)
to describe these units. But to the Japanese in general, these units were
known as Kamikaze, Divine Wind, a name that became well known and
feared by the Allies . By war's end, some 5,000 pilots died making Tokko
attacks.
A variety of aircraft were used for such attacks, mainly old and refurbished
aircraft. Because such old and slow aicraft were easy to intercept or shoot
down, the Japanese Navy began to develop specially-designed fast aircraft
to carry our such missions. The MXY-7 plane, named Ohka (Cherry
Blossom) by the Japanese and Baka (Loon) by the Allies, was developed by
Yokosuka. The first aircraft of this type to see service was the Yokosuka
MXY-7 Type 11, which was carried under a “mothership” close to its
intended target such as Allied warships where it was launched and
boosted by solid rockets. The short-range of the rocket boosters placed the
aircraft within the range of the targeted warships' defensive weapons and
often made this weapon ineffective.
43
The Yokosuka MXY-7 Type 22 was designed to necessitating a shorter wing span and much
overcome the short standoff distance problem smaller 600 kg (1,320 lb) warhead. None of
by using a --type thermojet engine, the Tsu- these aircraft appears to have been used
11. This would increase the range of the operationally, and only three of the
aircraft, which meant that it could be launched experimental Tsu-11s engines are known to
from further away and thus avoiding detection have been produced.
and interception. This engine was successfully
tested, and fifty Type 22 Ohkas were built by The only surviving Yokosuka MXY-7 Type 22 is
Yokosuka to accept the engine. The Model 22 on display at the Udvar-Hazy facility of the
was to be launched from the more Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum
agile Yokosuka P13Y Ginga "Frances" bomber, in Washington DC.
Due to the delicate nature of the

vac-forming two clear canopies are
provided. The windshield comes in
clear resin.
This is the 1:32 all-resin kit of the MXY-7 moulded into the fuselage looks superb
Type 22 kit designed by Radu Brinzan and and is well-defined; many of the photo-
produced by RB Productions. Included in etch parts are destined for the cockpit, as
the kit are nearly 60 parts in grey resin, a are a number of resin pieces. RB
clear resin windscreen, two vacformed Production's Japanese Navy Seat Harness
canopies, and a sheet of photo-etch set is included in the box and adds rich
containing roughly 60 additional detail detail to the pilot's seat. Each step of the
parts. The kit also includes a small decal instructions features a detailed graphic as
sheet printed by Fantasy Printshop. well as text to assist the builder along the
Panel lines are delicately scribed and are way.
of a consistent depth. Cockpit detail
I mixed the interior green

by eye working to
references which suggest
a dark blue-green.
44
This is really one of those kits

which it looks as if you could shake
the box and out will pop a
beautifully detailed model. The
quality throughout is first rate and
although it requires a little more
than just shaking the box the fit is
very good, a perfect kit to start with
if you’re new to working with resin.
There really is no need to add

anything other than what is
provided in the kit other than
perhaps a nose weight. For this I
used a fishing lead which proved to
be a surprisingly good fit.
I found a fishing line weight with a perfect fit to the fuselage providing a
good balance to the finished model.
Wooden parts were base

coated in matt sand and the
grain was added by ‘dragging’
raw sienna oil colour. A final
coat of clear orange gives a
warm tone.
Mr Metal colours were used on the burner and fans remembering these
engines were new and only used once...
The tow-frame provided is very

nicely done. With base colours
in place any weathering was
kept very minimal as this
equipment saw little use.
45
With the completed cockpit closed with the fuselage the prepared and painted two pilots that I used for the display.
remaining assembly is very simple and in no time I was One pilot is from the A6M5 Tamiya kit and the other is from
ready to mask the windshield and interior ready for an Ultracast. The simple wooden frame has alterative printed
overall coating of grey primer. inserts to allow me to change the whole look of the finished
For painting I used Mr.Color 56 "IJN Gray / Green" which project.
provided a good smooth surface to apply the minimal
decals and a panel line wash of heavily diluted black oil RB Productions produce very high quality modelling
colour. Before removing the masking a final coat of satin products and their Okha is no exception, a very enjoyable
clear was applied to harmonise the surface. project with not a great deal of time invested and certainly
recommended to a novice builder of resin kits as well as
From the outset of the project I felt it needed to include the the more detail demanding seasoned modeller.
uncomfortable subject of the human sacrifice of the pilot.
As I’m not comfortable yet painting figures a good friend
46
47
new releases
Wingnut Wings 1:32 Junkers D.1

From the more obscure end of the World War One airfield comes area on display which is a nice idea. There is a choice of twin
the quirky Junkers D.1 which appeared at the very end of the Spandau mounts with moulded barrel sleeves or a photoetched
conflict as one of the few all metal aircraft designs to see action. sleeves and a choice of propeller design. For the rigging-phobic
The ribbed panels used to construct the D.1 making it particularly the D.1 is the ideal choice as there are just two rigging lines on
distinctive and providing a challenge for the kit designers which the undercarriage. Five different schemes are included ranging
Wingnut wings have tacked beautifully with all their usual flair. The from a sleek-looking unpainted aluminium through to a full
complex framework which forms the cockpit and engine mounts mottled camouflaged pattern. The assorted reference images
is all replicated with an especially impressive moulding for the provided in the instructions show scratches and chipping of the
centre wing spar and fuel tank section. As usual the kit provides painted schemes was common, offering plenty of weathering
photoetched seat belts and there is a colour coded guide to add potential. The Cartograf decal sheet provides all the instrument
the control rigging if you wish. The Daimler-Mercedes engine dials, placards and manufacturer’s logos for the propellers. For
makes a familiar re-appearance from Wingnut’s catalogue and one of the schemes where the colour of the fuselage bands is
the D.1 is no different from the rest of the range in that separate uncertain a choice of colours has been included so that you can
cowlings allow the engine to be displayed if you want. The kit has make your own decision, another thoughtful inclusion! Another fine
50 been designed with the option to allow the wingss to be modelled addition to the Wingnuts range, superb quality and ribbed for your
detached from the fuselage with appropriately detailed wing root pleasure! www.wingnutwings.com
Eduard 1:48 Bf 109G-14 ProfiPack Edition

The steady release of Eduard's new-tool '109s continues, some 'white one' adorns the box-top with mid-grey and clear sprues
may groan at yet another '109 but Luftwaffe fans just can't get showing state-of-the-art moulding and the finest of surface detail,
enough of these latest generation fighters and the various these editions are really connoisseur kits to produce stunning
boxings. This release of the beautiful G-14 is one of their builds from the box. Options are provided for short or tall tails,
'ProfiPack' editions which means it's complete with coloured optional drop tanks and gun fairings and plenty on the sprues left
photoetch, painting masks and a superb choice of five markings over for the spares box. Decals are first rate, and as mentioned,
and generic stencils. Eduard have been applauded for re-tooling offer five options from late 1944 until the end of WWII. Check
their '109s a couple of years ago in response to some criticism Eduard's extensive website and newsletters for more details on
regarding dimensions and shapes and have produced a stunning their releases and catalogue www.eduard.com
rendition of the legendary fighter. The handsome Hartmann's
Mission Models Acrylic Paints
We have a bundle of welcome new additions to the Mission

Models range of dedicated aircraft colours beginning with a
group of WWII Japanese colours including the Aotaki Blue/Green
primer designed to be applied over the MMP Faded Aluminium
finish. Mitsubishi Interior Green , Propeller Brown, Zero grey and
Amber and Deep Green are also provided. There is a new worn
tire grey black which looks promising and three new greys.
Neutral Haze grey, Haze Grey and Aircraft gloss grey FS16473.
The two remaining shades are Insignia Red FS31136 and
Insignia White FS17875. The paints are water soluable but
Mission Models also provide a thinner and an extender to
improve spraying characteristics. The flip top caps have a small
drop dispenser making it easy to load your airbrush. We have
had some excellent results using the paints and the range of
primers. For more information on the entire paint range visit:
www.missionmodelsus.com
51
Coccarde Tricolori Speciale-7, This new monograph is a treat for Fighting Falcon fans and in particular those operated
by the Italian Aeronautica Militare telling the story of the F-16s purchase and
F-16 A/B ADF adaptation. The book is packed with excellent colour photos with many workshop and
Riccardo Niccoli in-flight images which must be hard to come by and provide excellent modelling
Published by RN Publishing reference with some good close-ups and a dedicated ‘Walk-around’ section displaying
removed engines, landing gear bays and the cockpits. More great reference is on hand
Soft back format, 96 pages with the section on Gli Special Colours with some really attractive schemes which
Italian / English text would make great projects and all-round detailed colour profile drawings of the regular
ISBN 9788895011127 grey schemes. A very nicely presented book offering good value. Available through
Casemate in the UK and USA and many Italian stockists including the publishers direct.
Eduard 1:48 Fw 190A-5 Light Fighter ProfiPack Edition

If you remember a couple of issues back we brought you a full simple enough. The ProfiPack edition does provide welcome
build of the Eduard new tool Fw 190 in it's A4 guise and the extras with one of Eduards pre-coloured photoetch sheets (much
builder, Paolo Portuesi, rated the kit as one of his favourite to date of which goes into the cockpit), pre-cut self adhesive painting
in 1:48. This new A5 'Lightfighter' (with outer wing cannons masks and a bumper decal sheet with a whopping five marking
omitted and the extended nose if I'm not mistaken) means we options (all with Eduard's usual detailed background information
have sprues of generic '190 parts and a new fuselage and wings, on the aircraft in question) and very detailed generic stencils on a
all moulded to the same stunning standard as the previous; the separate sheet. These ProfiPack kits are great value and produce
surface detail on these kits really has to be seen in the flesh to be little gems straight from the box, if you can't help but tinker check
52 fully appreciated. There's plenty of spares left over from other out the range of extras for the '190 from Eduard too. Superb.
versions so as well as being beautifully detailed kits, assembly is
Eduard
Kicking off a look at some of the latest detail sets from Eduard in 1:48 has been a popular release and there’s a Zoom set now
with one of their mouth-watering ‘Big Sin’ sets for the Revell 1:32 to boost the detail with FE886. Recently we looked at the new
Fw 190A-8 containing some stunning resin and photoetch detail Wingnut Wings Dolphin and Zoom set 33188 will enhance the
for the cockpit and twin cowling cannons with a superb cowl cockpit including coloured seat belts.
cover in resin. A full set of photoetch flaps is also in the box. A couple of Brassin sets to finish with, 648 388 offers a superb
Tamiya’s new 1:48 ‘109 G-6 comes under the spotlight with set ejector seat set for Hasegawa’s F-8E Crusader in pre-coloured
49890 giving coloured photoetch (also available as a ‘zoom’ set photoetch and finely cast resin. 648 394 is for any British rocket-
separately) and a selection of exterior parts. FE892 is a beautiful armed aircraft with delicately detailed RP-3 60lb SAP, eight are
set of Eduards coloured seatbelts for Tamiya’s ‘109. More Fw 190 included complete with decals.
goodness in 1:48 now with a full cockpit set for Eduard’s own A-5 For a taste of Eduard’s staggering range get over to
in resin and photoetch which will look stunning. ICM’s He 111H-3 www.eduard.com 53
Eduard 1:72 ‘Riders in the Sky’ Liberator GR Mk.III & Mk.V RAF Coastal Command
Something of a bumper box here in this limited edition release cockpit details, and seat belts. The kit comes with an incredible
from Eduard which is based around a re-boxing of the Hasegawa choice of no less than thirteen different schemes, two of which are
1:72 B-24 Liberator with some additional good things. The original for Australian aircraft. The decal sheet is printed by Cartograf so
Hasegawa parts really need no introduction with Hasegawa’s crisp the quality goes without saying and there are markings for the
detail and clever clear moulded nose parts with integrally moulded instrument panel provided here as an alternative to the pre-
canopy eliminating potential canopy fit issues. Engines are rather painted version. The instruction guide for the markings is provided
basic but then Eduard have released a separate resin upgrade for in full colour and the kit also includes a full colour 76 page book
these if you wish to upgrade them. Eduard have produced their on Coastal Command Liberators, published by Eduard. Text is all
own additional sprue with the various conversion parts required to in Czech but it is packed with archive images of the aircraft in
adapt the B-24 to the Coastal Command variants. These include service and colour profiles too. Despite the language barrier its an
new propellers, radar domes, the fuselage-mounted rocket rails excellent reference for building the kit with great examples of the
and much enhanced parts for the gun turrets. As well as this the weathering seen on these aircraft in service. A very
kit comes with a full set of pre-cut window masks and two comprehensive package, not the cheapest kit but when you factor
photoetched frets. The smaller fret provides various antenna parts in the costs of the original Hasegawa kit, the masks, photoetch,
whereas the larger one has pre-painted instrument panels, other the huge choice of schemes and the book it starts to make sense.
Eduard 1:72 Liberator GR Mk.III/IV

Upgrades
Also available are a series of upgrade parts for the
Liberator, starting with the very excellent engine set
672171 which massively improves the levels of detail
with a photoetched wiring harness. Similarly the
wheels can be upgraded with set 672170 and when
you see the level of detail they offer they become
essential. If you want to enhance the interior then
photoetched set 73 627 offers details for the nose
interior, cockpit area and waist gun positions. Finally
54
set 672183 offers enhanced bomb bay doors
allowing you to model the doors in the open position.
Italeri 1:48 Chinook HC.2/CH-47F

Another release of Italeri’s Chinook with part to create the HC.2 aftermarket already available for the kit in it’s original guise. The
version now with a couple of extra sprues including exhausts, whole interior is assembled as a self contained ‘tube’ and the
antenna details, ECM and RWR fittings. No denying, in 1:48 the fuselage halves close around it. Moulding throughout is nice and
Chinook has a excellent presence as a display piece with it’s twin clean and the all-important glazing is good and clear. Decals offer
rotors and sheer size, although in 1:48 the surface detail is not up an RAF, US Army and JASDF version and are of excellent quality
to some more modern toolings, void of rivet detail and pretty soft with some fine stencil detail on offer. A solid kit but with room for
panel lines. For what will be seen of the interior the detail is good improvement, desert air-filter ‘bins’ would have also been a very
with effective quilting and seating with relief moulded bulkhead worthwhile inclusion to allow a wider scope of marking options;
features. If you’re displaying the huge rear cargo door open and maybe a release in future from Italeri?. Our thanks to the UK
want to go mad with photoetched seatbelts (a-plenty!) there’s distributor, The Hobby Company for our Italeri samples.
Fokker D.VII
Tomasz J. Kowalski, Szymon This new release from’ Kagero will delight Fokker fans of the Great War with an excellent mix
Grzwocz and Damiam Majsak of modelling and reference all colourfully presented. Beginning with some excellent period
Published by Kagero images and historical text (English and Polish) there’s two full feature builds of Wingnut
Wings kits with hints, tips and additions along the way (including some superb photoetched
Softback format, 88 pages,
spoked wheels) by very accomplished modellers and the added interest of some nice figures
English / Polish text and groundwork. More top-notch detailing reference is provided with some of Kagero’s
ISBN 9788365437679 superb 3D renders of the aircraft in ‘skeletal ‘ form (I think the illustration excerpts are from a
www.casematepublishers.co.uk previous release in Kagero’s 3D range), what more could you want from the low retail price
tag, perhaps some colour profiles by the master Ronny Bar? Well they’re included also 55
rounding off a great mix of reference and information.
QB48813
QB72569
QB72577
QB48818
QB48796
QB48816
QB32192
QB48808 QB48819
QB48815
QB48790
QB32198
QB72571
QB48797 QB72564
QB48788
Aires ‘Quickboost’
More beautifully cast detail tweaks from Aires in their extensive with ECM and TCS. For the Academy PBY Catalina is a new radar
‘Quickboost’ range starting in 1:72 with QB72557, an exhaust for antenna in 1:72 QB72571 and also in 1:72 is QB72564, a set of
the Airfix Bn51 Kate and QB72569 a detailed tail wheel for the detailed landing lights in clear and grey resin for the Be-12 from
Hasegawa A-1H Skyraider. In 1:48 QB48813 is a WWI LMG-14, QB Modelsvit (remember our feature in issue 76?).
48818 is for the Eduard or Zvezda Pe-2 with some very fine The 1:32 Revell Spitfire Mk.IX is well served by the aftermarket and
exhausts, QB48808 is another set of exhausts for Eduard’s Fw- here’s a couple more from Quickboost with some beautiful fishtail
190A, QB48796 is a set of delicate fuel vents for the Airfix T.1 Gnat exhausts (QB32192) and a detailed cockpit door with set QB32198.
and QB48819 some nice hollow intakes for the Pilot SAAB J-21. Finally set QB48788 is for the Airfix 1:48 Ju87B, a Jumo propeller
Still with 1:48 is QB 48816, a set of barrels for the Hobby Boss complete with assembly jig.
IAR80 and a few F-14 A/B sets for Tamiya’s kit with QB48815, a More details on Aires range over at www.quickboost.net
beaver tail, QB48790 an early chin pod and QB48797 a chin pod
If you visited the 2017 IPMS Scale create the bare metal racer which
Modelworld you’ll no doubt recognise this certainly tips over into the ‘Model Engineer
stunning Spitfire built by Peter Castle / Museum’ category. The quality of the
which took the Best of Show crown in. photography is very clear with large format
Building Race No.80 Probably one of the most remarkable throughout making this a very
model aircraft you’re ever likely to see has comprehensive reference for any late
Peter Castle now been documented in great detail as a Spitfire project with a section on ‘skinning’
Published by KLP Publishing 566 page digital publication featuring large scale aircraft as an added bonus.
Digital Book, 566 pages, pdf format every single component inside and out. Incredible work with much to teach the
56 www.klp.com.au We were surprised to see how little of the everyday aircraft modeller and nicely
1:18 HPH kit was actual left unmodified to presented by KLP. www.klp.com.au
72154 72155 48347
48348 48350
48349
32129
48351
Scale Aircraft Conversions

More detail and steady, strong ‘pegs’ from the guys at SAC to add for the Hobby Boss L-39C Albatros, 48349 designed for the Fw
to their already massive catalogue of white metal landing gear 190A-4/5 from Eduard, 48350 is for the new Tamiya Bf 109G-6 and
sets. In 1:72 is set 72154 for the Eduard Fw 190A-5/8, R-2/8 and finally in quarter scale 48351 is for the Airfix Sea Fury FB.11. Just
F8 which provides two sets and 72155 for the Airfix Phantom FG.1. the one release in 1:32 is for the new tool Revell P-51D. More
For 1:48 we’ve 48347 for the Airfix Hawk T Mk.1/ Hawk 100, 48348 details are over at www.scaleaircraftconversions.com
Zvezda 1:72 Mi-24P “Hind”

Zvezda have revisited their exquisite 1:72 hind from 2010 to engines is included along with the surrounding structures. The
release this ground attack variant with the twin 30mm gun mount cockpit is quite basic relying on decals for most of the
with a new sprue added to the original parts to provide all the instrumentation details, but if you intend to fit the crew this is
changed areas. The quality and finesse of the moulding is probably sufficient. The canopy mouldings look very nice with
exceptionally good with extremely delicate panel lines and a separately moulded door panels. The decal sheet provides
couple of nicely moulded pilots. You have the option to build the markings for 3 different schemes with a black & white marking
57
Hind with engine cowlings, inspection covers, fuselage door and guide. Overall a cracking looking kit with the kinds of detail you
cockpit doors open or closed and to this end a well detailed set of would usually expect in larger scales.
KEVIN FUTTER takes up a challenge the to create

a large scale Birdcage F4U-1D - the hard way!
58
This project had its genesis way back in 2013, ironically just
prior to the news that Tamiya was about to release a
wunderkit of this very same aircraft. I was approached by a
member of the Large Scale Planes forums with a challenge:
he would send me a Trumpeter 1:32 F4U-1D kit, complete
with a Montex birdcage conversion set and a stack of
additional aftermarket products and reference materials, and
I simply had to build it using what he sent me, honour his
request to remain anonymous, and return anything I didn’t
use to him at the end of the build. Foolishly, I accepted.
When the box arrived, it weighed more than me, and
contained more aftermarket products than I’d ever seen
together in a single box, along with some magazines and
books. Somewhat daunted, it took me another two years to
actually start the build!
Apart from the Trumpeter F4U-1D kit, I was confronted with

the following: Montex birdcage conversion, Aires wheel bays,
LSP cowl, G-Factor landing gear legs, Obscureco main
wheels and prop blades, Eduard interior and exterior photo-
etch sets, Verlinden cockpit, Moskit exhausts and lower cowl
piece, Quickboost pitot tube, Meteor Productions Pyn-Up
decals, and Archer prop logo dry transfers, along with
miscellaneous bits and bobs. Phew!
59
The project itself didn’t get off to the best the window cut-out. I then transferred the both sections with the fuselage
start, as I assembled the kit engine tape to a piece of paper card stock, and modifications.
incorrectly, rendering it unsuitable for use cut out the basic shape for testing. The Verlinden cockpit coaming was also
in the process. I tried to fix it, but in the Happy with the general fit, I finished off all adapted to fit the Trumpeter kit, as it was a
end my anonymous benefactor (AB) took the detailing using a combination of single piece without the annoying seam
pity on me and sent me a Quickboost Verlinden parts, styrene stock, and various down the middle. I added a styrene flange
engine. types of wire. I took the same approach to the bottom of the Verlinden part to aid
So, after that false start, I decided to move with the cockpit sidewalls. attachment, since it’s smaller than space
on to the cockpit instead. The Verlinden My AB supplied Moskit metal exhausts for left after removing the appropriate areas
resin cockpit AB had supplied was this build, and these came with a new resin from the fuselage. The gap that’s left is
designed for the old Revell kit, and some part for the lower exhaust outlet panel. This actually hidden by the beefy windscreen
parts had already been assembled. I required cutting away the moulded-in frames, so I didn’t even have to fill it!
quickly discovered that it would take some section from the kit, and being designed The Verlinden instrument panel is designed
serious work to adapt it for this project. The for the older Revell kit, the Moskit part took to slot into the underside of the coaming,
floor, rear bulkhead, and side consoles a bit of work to match the contours of the and is consequently also a little too small
were unusable, so some scratch-building Trumpeter kit. for the cavernous Trumpeter fuselage. I
would be required. The next task was to make way for the new decided to fudge it and hope that this
The first task was to create the opening in Montex turtledeck part, which involved wouldn’t be too obvious on the finished
the lower wing for the viewing window cutting away the kit fuselage spine model, which turned out to be the case. I
underneath the pilot, supplied by Montex in immediately behind the cockpit. I ended up detailed the panel with Waldron instrument
clear resin. This was a feature of birdcage having to shim my cuts a little, but it’s not dials and Barracuda stencils.
Corsairs not present in Trumpeter’s kit, a difficult task overall. I made tabs from
which represents the later F4U-1D. thick styrene to help align and attach the The final element to finish off the cockpit
Once this was done, I could fabricate a resin turtledeck part. was the seat. Again, I used the Verlinden
new fuselage floor around the new Returning to the cockpit, I decided to part, which has moulded-in seat belts, but
opening. I took two sections of 40mm tape construct the rear bulkhead by splicing the doesn’t feature the shoulder straps. I
and laid them across the bottom of the upper portion of the Montex part with the added those using wine bottle foil.
fuselage underneath the cockpit, and drew lower portion of the Verlinden part, which
a basic outline in pencil, including marking would ensure maximum compatibility of
A section needs to be removed to A template for the new cockpit floor By lining up the window cut-outs, I I stupidly glued the new floor to
allow for the clear resin window to be was made from tape, and was able to refine the shape so that the wings that were being test-
fitted. transferred to a piece of styrene it fit quite nicely into the lower fitted, and had to use a razor saw
sheet. fuselage. to cut them away again!
60
Once happy with the general fit, I

finished off all the detailing using a The cockpit sidewalls were detailed Painted and weathered. I used White Ensign’s Dull Dark Green for the main
combination of Verlinden detail parts, using the same approach. cockpit colour.
styrene stock, and various types of wire.
A combination of carving, sanding, I used thick styrene tabs to assist with

styrene shims and super glue got fit and alignment of the new
Barracuda cockpit stencils really help Moskit lower exhaust panel vs the kit
the job done turtledeck part.
flesh out the details. rendition.
Final fit was acceptable after a bit of I spliced the Montex upper and Both the kit and Montex bulkheads The Verlinden cockpit coaming with a
shimming with styrene strip. Verlinden lower parts to create a lack the lower section, so this is more flange added to adapt it to fit the
new rear cockpit bulkhead. accurate, and ensures a good fit. Trumpeter fuselage.
And checked for fit; the gap around The Verlinden instrument panel was The Verlinden seat was added to the The Moskit exhausts were incredibly
the edges is neatly hidden by the detailed with Waldron instrument bulkhead and finished off with wine fiddly to assemble, but look the part
windscreen framing! dials and Barracuda stencils, and bottle foil for the shoulder straps. when complete.
came out surprisingly well.
The Moskit exhausts were next on the the fuselage halves was to attend to
bench, and they were incredibly fiddly the tail wheel bay. I’d already
to assemble. You get two pairs of three determined that Marines Dream didn’t
exhausts, and a pair of resin spacers feature a tail hook, which simplified
for each, and the delicate metal things. I used the custom mix
exhausts made assembly quite recommended by Tamiya for the
stressful! On top of that, I managed to salmon pink primer colour, dirtied up
install them incorrectly, and they stand with a wash of Paynes Grey oil paint. I
proud of their recess on the finished painted and assembled the kit tail
model, rather than being flush with the wheel assembly before realising that
opening. Oh well. my AB had included an Eduard set in
The final task before being able to join the box for it. D’oh!
61
The completed tail wheel bays painted with

Tamiya’s custom mix for the salmon pink
primer: 5 parts pink to 1 part Hull
Fuselage finally joined together.
I had to resort to cutting a Repairs underway... The awful gun

triangular hole in each openings on
upper wing to allow the the kit wings.
trailing edge to sit correctly.
The plastic was so thin at
this point that I managed to
split it with my thumb!
The Aires wheel bays attached

with JB Weld after much thinning
of both resin and plastic.
The turtledeck added and

blended in with Apoxie
Sculpt.
The wing root joints also
required work.
The holes were opened up to accept

some styrene tubing. Fitting the Aires wheel bays distorted
After trimming back and widening the shape of the mating surfaces
the holes to the correct diameter, between the centre and outer wing
the result is much better. sections, requiring much work to fix.
This was the most frustrating section of the to the changes in geometry caused by contend with, this time in the form of the
build, and mostly due to trying to fit the squeezing the Aires wheel bays in, and LSP upgrade set. This features a resin
Aires wheel bays in. Even after shaving took considerable work to rehabilitate. The cowling part, with photo-etched flaps and
both resin and plastic parts to wafer-thin plastic was so thin at this point that I detail parts. The only trouble I had was
thickness, they still wouldn’t fit between the decided not to risk trying to rescribe some developing the proper curvature on the
wings. In the end, I had to cut a triangle of of the missing detail. flaps, and this interfered slightly with fit
plastic out of the top of each wing, which It was about this time that I was informed later on, which required some remedial
allowed the resin part to poke up into the that Marines Dream had its turtledeck work.
hole. I then filled the holes and cleaned up windows replaced with metal panels in a Turning to the engine itself, I now had the
the mess. I made them fit in the end, but it common field modification, so I set about terrific Quickboost example at my disposal,
threw out the alignment of other elements replicating that mod. I made templates for and after adding some missing detail with
of the wing, and I don’t think the the side panels using Tamiya tape, and styrene rod and wire, I was quite
improvement in detail was worth the effort. used them to cut some styrene sheet to impressed with how it looked after some
An area that needs addressing on the kit suit. The cover plates on the rear bulkhead careful painting.
wings are the horrible openings for the were also cut from styrene sheet, with For the canopy, I used the clear resin parts
machine guns. They’re moulded as sloppy fastening bolts fashioned with punched from the Montex set, which turned out to
ovals at the front of each wing half, and discs of Bare Metal Foil and styrene. The be anything but, unfortunately, but were
just won’t do. I widened them to take some reinforcing panel on the spine was required to be accurate for a birdcage
styrene tubing, and after the wing halves simulated using some more Bare Metal Corsair. I used the supplied masking set,
were joined, these were trimmed and Foil, and later built up further with some Mr. which was also problematic, but I made it
opened up to the correct diameter. Surfacer. work in the end.
The outer wings fit as expected to the Moving on to the engine cowling, and
centre section: poorly. This was in part due again we have a replacement part to
62
The Montex clear resin canopy parts, finished and The Quickboost engine embellished with
awaiting installation. The turned out not to be so styrene rod and wire. And the finished
clear, unfortunately. example, ready for
installation.
I chose to employ the so-called ‘black AS-12 on the centre wing sections to using a water-soluble acrylic. The top coat
basing’ technique for painting this one, represent the bare metal areas. This was goes down next, and I used MRP-133
whereby I used Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 followed by a couple of thin coats of AK Grey-Blue for the upper colour, applied
Black as the primer/undercoat, and then Interactive’s Worn Effects chipping fluid, using the same mottling technique used
gradually mottled the main colours over and once dry, a couple of light coats of elsewhere. Since this isn’t technically water
the top. If done correctly, this results in MRP’s new acrylic zinc chromate yellow soluble, don’t let it dry too long before you
subtle variations in the finish that look far (MRP-A010). After a few minutes of drying start chipping! The result is a multi-layer
more natural and organic than simple pre- time, I brushed some water on the surface, finished with exposed areas of bare metal
and post-shading. There was a and began to work an old stiff brush into and primer colour, and the camouflage
complication, however, as I wanted to the surface. As the zinc chromate began to colour looking suitably distressed on top.
introduce some major chipping on the wear away, patches of silver began to The rest of the model was painted using
inner wing sections, and the two goals at show through, giving me the exposed bare the black basing approach, and then it was
first appeared to be mutually incompatible. metal effect I was seeking. on to the gloss coats and decals. I used an
The solution came from Matt McDougall, At this point it’s prudent to protect the work old Meteor Productions Pyn-Up set for
who faced a similar problem with his own already done with a coat of clear gloss. Marines Dream as it was supplied by my
Corsair build. Copying his example, I Then the process is repeated for the top AB; there’s a much newer and more
covered the entire model with the black colour; start with another layer of chipping accurate set available from Barracuda
primer, and then laid down some Tamiya fluid, followed again by black, but this time these days.
This sequence shows the steps involved in the We then go over it again, aiming for a tighter
The final coat is designed to blend things in and
mottling process over the black base on the mottle this time to fill in the blanks. This is
bring a sense of cohesion to the finish. Use
fuselage. We start with a loose mottle to establish designed to eliminate any evidence of pure
heavily-thinned paint and work slowly. It’s OK for it
a strong contrast with between the two colours. black, and soften the overall contrast.
to still look too stark at this stage, as subsequent
weathering and clear coats will do the rest.
Decals on and the 3-

stage weathering
process completed!
63
64
The decals went down well, but the under-wing national marking you really only want to get the mixture moving. The final
reacted badly to Micro Sol, and I had to cobble together a weathering task involved some subtle paint chipping using yellow
replacement from unused portions on the sheet – which also and silver pencils, which allows for a lot more control than paint-
reacted badly to Micro Sol! In the end I had to make to, but it’s a based approaches.
big ugly down there. I cobbled the prop together from spare Tamiya parts (thanks,
Weathering started out with a liberal dose of Flory Models Dark Carl!), and used Archer dry transfers for the logos. The main
Dirt wash, followed by some further panel line accenting with AK landing gear was a brass set from G-Factor, and the wheels were
Interactive’s Paneliner for Grey and Blue Camouflage. Then came from Obscureco. I drilled and pinned the aerial mast, and used
some judicious post-shading with a thin mix of black and brown Uschi’s fine thread for the wire. I had initially installed a Quickboost
Tamiya acrylics. pitot tube, but broke it off, and had to resort to the kit part. The
For the fuel stains in front of the windscreen, I flooded the circular final act for this build was to fix the gap I created behind the
panel recess with a thin mix of Burnt Umber and Black oil paints, cowling, and it was finally done!
and then blew it down the sides of the fuselage with my airbrush.
Go gently, and let gravity and capillary action do most of the work;
The Frankenstein nature of this model meant that I had a lot of

challenges building it, and it’s neither perfect nor particularly
accurate. Still, I like the way it turned out. Sadly, my anonymous
benefactor, a chap by the name of Tim Valdez, died in September
2017, three months before I could finish the build. This model is
dedicated to his memory.
65

AIR Modeller 78 2018

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AIR 78 cover.

qxp_Layout 1 10/05/2018 11:51 Page 1

MICHEL GRUSON BUILDS

12 Supermarine Walrus Part 2

28 Bella Ballila part 4

34 HKP9 Tank Hunter

Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by

DAL I XU’S HASEGAWA F18 IS ‘READY TO GO’

The Aires wheel wells require more surgery

Above the effect of the salt masking and post shading

In several key parts of fuselage (such as wing folding

As I was keen to replicate a particular With my F-18 firmly cemented in place I

The Walrus kit was turned into a faithful model of

Supermarine Walrus & Stranraer, James

A.P. 1515A: The Walrus I & II Aeroplane

Supermarine Walrus I and Seagull Variants,

Supermarine Walrus, Allan Hall and Ray

British Flying Boats, Peter London, Sutton

The Supermarine Walrus, G.W.R. Nicholl

This kit from the Eduard’s ‘Art’ range is in fact the

The whole cockpit area is A very light

Brake lines were added

To improve the engine details, the ignition system was scratch

The big step with any aircraft build;

Fit of the main components is Ok but, nevertheless, putty will be

The whole model was sprayed with Mr White Surfacer 1000

Using the masks to paint the U.S.

Before painting the model, some places are

Using a wooden tooth pick to scratch the paint

Starting from the P-47’s nose, each horizontal

Before applying the decals I buffed smooth the

It was time for the

AK Interactive filters of various tones gave further subtle

So finally we have this huge Thunderbolt with the striking Wolf

BUILDING THE AVIATTIC 1:32 ANSALDO A.1

The last piece of cowling was glued in place and

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The Bo 105 is a lightweight twin engined helicopter,

SWEDISH ARMED FORCES

The model kit itself I won at a local model

“People who know me know

PAINTING AND DECALS

FLORIN SIL AGHI

Due to the delicate nature of the

I mixed the interior green

This is really one of those kits

There really is no need to add

Wooden parts were base

The tow-frame provided is very

Wingnut Wings 1:32 Junkers D.1

Eduard 1:48 Bf 109G-14 ProfiPack Edition

Mission Models Acrylic Paints