Supporting Shelves Five methods for installing

by Stephen Winchester

I
earn my living by making cabinetry—not cookie-cut- My methods aren't as crude as using stamped-steel
ter kitchens, but one-of-a-kind pieces and custom brackets but neither are they as fussy as routing tapered
built-ins. Every cabinet I build has at least one shelf. sliding dovetails.
And some—hutches and book cabinets, for example-
have many. As both designer and fabricator in most cas- Fixed or adjustable shelving
es, I try to balance style, function and cost when figuring Style of cabinetry is the most important factor in deter-
out how to support shelves in a cabinet. mining which of the methods of shelving support I use.
Over the years, I have come to favor several tech- The next most important factor is cost. For cabinets in
niques that achieve that happy balance between ele- kitchens, pantries and utility rooms, fixed shelves are
gance and efficiency (the five methods I use most often generally fine (see the story below). But for most of my
are described below and on the following four pages). work, clients want adjustable shelves. Shelf standards,

BLIND-NAILED DADO

For fixed shelving, I remove the waste with the

there's only one choice radial-arm saw, using a dado
Here in New Hampshire, paint- set that's slightly smaller than
ed pine cupboards are popular. the width of the finished slot. I
They're a frequent choice for take two passes and cut just to
kitchen cabinets, where one or the scored line on each side.
two shelves are all that's neces- Shelves are installed as the
sary. These shelves can be case is assembled. Then I drill
fixed at standard intervals to al- for the nails to avoid splitting
low for stacks of plates and the stock. I use 6d box or fin-
glasses. For these shelves, I use ish nails and take care not to
a blind-nailed dado (see the drive one through the side of
drawing at right). It's quick, the cabinet. With the box nails,
and the shelves are strong and I hammer the heads flat on the
look neat. sides, so they look more like
Because my clients like the a cut nail.
look of handplaned boards, I These cabinets are of a tradi-
plane the sides, top, bottom tional style, so I usually attach
and shelves of the cupboards a face frame to their front
after taking them to thickness edges. If you want a frameless,
with my planer. Then I cut the more contemporary-looking
shelf stock in. longer than cabinet, you could stop the
the inside measurement of the dadoes shy of the front of the
cabinet (this allows for a -in. cabinet, square them up and
dado in each upright) and have blind dadoes.
mark the dadoes directly from
the ends of the shelves, using
a sharp knife. I also number
everything so that if the
shelves vary slightly in thick-
ness, they will still fit their
dadoes snugly.
shelves that combine elegance and efficiency

long vertical tracks that go into a case's sides, are the a reasonable load: 3 ft. of books shouldn't be a problem.
most visible and utilitarian-looking, but they're also the Even the thin, invisible wires have a tremendous amount
quickest to install (see the story below). Drilling holes in of shear strength.
the side of the case for shelf pins is the next quickest (see In the rare instances I've made shelves longer than
the story on p. 76). Another technique employs what I 36 in., I've used a strongback, which is a wooden rein-
call invisible wires that slip into thin kerfs in the ends of forcing bar either beneath or at the front of a shelf. Even
the shelves (see the story on p. 77). And there are saw- with a strongback, though, I wouldn't plan to stack 4 ft. of
tooth supports, which are quite elegant, but relatively encyclopedias on an otherwise unsupported shelf.
time-consuming (see the story on p. 78). The more com-
plicated the method, the more I have to charge. Stephen Winchester is a professional cabinetmaker and
As far as function goes, any of these supports will hold furnituremaker in Gilmanton, N.H.

SHELF STANDARDS

Utility player:
quick and simple
Shelf standards are the quick-
est, simplest way of installing
adjustable shelving (see the
drawing at right). They're not,
however, the most attractive.
Still, there are situations where
they're the perfect solution,
and they can be painted to
match the cabinet. The spacing
between holes for the clips is
in., so standards are the most
adjustable of the methods I use.
To install the standards, I
plow a dado in. wide and
in. deep all the way from
the top to the bottom of the
cabinet sides. Then I assemble
the cabinet, finish it and nail
the standards in, paying atten-
tion to which end of the stan-
dard is up.
I nail the standards to the
cabinet sides with the special
nails that come with the stan-
dards. If cabinets are going to
be placed next to each other,
make sure they don't share a
side (each case needs to have
its own wall), or the nails will
hit each other.
 SHELF PINS

The old standby of holes in. from the edges even get pins with rubber bottom of the sides. I figure out
I like shelf pins because they're of the case sides. I drill the cushions for use with glass the minimum and maximum
quick and easy to install (see holes using a shopmade tem- shelving. The most common spacing I'd like between
the photos below), very little plate before assembling the sizes are 5mm and in. And shelves. Then I lay out lines on
hardware shows and, depend- cabinet. I measure for the if you don't like the look of the case sides reflecting those
ing on how closely the holes shelves after assembly. commercial pins, you can al- parameters. For example, I nev-
are spaced, they're almost infi- Pins are available in a num- ways whittle your own (see er drill holes closer than 5 in.
nitely adjustable. Spacing the ber of different shapes, sizes FWW #98, p. 65). from the top or bottom of a
holes 1 in. on center works out and materials, including plastic, I don't need to drill holes all case because a shelf that close
about right. I also set the row plated steel and brass. You can the way from the top to the generally wouldn't be useful.

Drilling shelf-
pin holes. A tem-
plate with an
end-stop positions
the template
accurately top to
bottom and elimi-
nates the possibil-
ity of measuring
errors (left). A
gauge block en-
sures a consistent
setback from the
edge of the case.
Different-width
gauge blocks can
be used for spe-
cial applications,
such as drilling
offset pin holes
from both sides of
one upright (inset
photo above and
drawing at left).
A wooden stop
block sets the
depth (left). It
won't move
either, like many
metal collars.
Blue masking
tape indicates
where the holes
in the case sides
should stop.
 INVISIBLE WIRES

Great for contemporary Installing wire

cabinets supports. Drill
the holes about
This method is pretty slick and in. deep (top
looks great on more contem- left). Masking tape
porary, frameless cabinetry. is an effective
The only thing that will show depth gauge. Cut
on a cabinet with shelves sup- the wire to length,
ported by these "invisible" and mark it for
bending (top
wires is a series of -in. holes. right). The wire
No hardware is visible at all. should be as long
But because the shelves as the distance be-
slide onto the wires, you can't tween the holes
use them on cabinets that plus in.—twice
have face frames (see the the depth of the
holes and twice
drawing below). the amount of
It's nearly as easy to cut, wire sticking out
bend and install invisible wires before it bends. To
as it is to install shelf pins. If I bend the wire, put
have a bunch of cabinets to it in the vise, push
do, I make a template, just as I it over by hand
and tap it flat with
do for shelf pins. If I only have a hammer (bot-
a few to do, I use a marking tom left). Check
gauge and a tape measure to for consistency
lay out the hole centers. (bottom right).
I use suspended-ceiling wire Wires should pro-
(available from most home
trude about in.
from each hole.
centers and large lumberyards) Trim if necessary.
for the supports. It's about
in. dia., and a 10 ft. length
costs less than $2. In a pinch,
coat-hanger wire could be
used. I measure the diameter
of the wire with a caliper and
then choose a bit to match. I
also drill a test hole to make
sure the wire fits snugly but
not so tightly that it has to be
pounded in.
I snip the wire to length with
a pair of lineman's pliers and
bend the wires in a vise. To get
the wire to bend in the right
place, I position it so the mark
indicating the bend is just
above the vise jaws. I bend it
by hand first and then tap the
corner flat with a hammer.
Blind slots for the wires are cut
in the ends of each shelf on
the tablesaw but are stopped
in. shy of the front edge of
each shelf. I use a standard-
kerf blade, but if you use a
thin-kerf blade, just make two
passes. The slots are centered
on the ends of the shelves.
 SAWTOOTH SUPPORTS

The most elegant

supports
I've saved the best-looking
shelf supports for last. They're
not difficult to make—just a
little time-consuming (see the
photos below).
After milling stock for the
sawtooth supports and the
cleats that go between them
(both are the same dimensions,
about in. to in. thick and
in. wide), I mark the four
uprights from a sawtooth pat-
tern. Then I saw them out to-
gether on the radial-arm saw
and the bandsaw.
I clean up sawmarks with a
chisel and glue and nail the
sawtoothed strips to the car-
case sides at the front and rear.
Cleats span the distance be-
tween supports; the shelves are
notched around them.

Making sawtooth
supports. Mark out
sawtooth patterns on
the dimensioned stock
(top left). A pattern
made from -in. hard-
board speeds layout.
Tape the four uprights
together, and then tape
the pattern to the stack
to keep the pattern in
place. Cut the straight
part of the sawtooth on
the radial-arm saw or
tablesaw (top right).
Bandsaw the angled
part of the sawtooth
(bottom left). Then
pare the faces of the
sawteeth smooth, and
clean out the corners
(bottom right).