GRASS VALLEY GVG110 (100) PANEL MODIFICATIONS FOR

STANDALONE OPERATION by Baz Leffler

The Grass Valley GVG110 control panel was initially designed to connect directly to its associated electronics. This
connection facilitated both power and communications. The communications was based on RS422 both ways, and the
power was generated by the Grass Valley control electronics which incorporated 9 volts for the panel electronics and 14
volts for the lamp illumination.

The following instructions will firstly discuss modifying the panel for use with a 3rd party microcontroller, specifically an
Arduino style, and then discuss the modifications required to allow the panel to convert to LED illumination to use with a
single 9 volt power source.

CONNECTING TO THE DATA AND ADDRESS BUSSES

Initially the GVG110 control panel is controlled by its own preprogrammed microprocessor. This microprocessor
communicates with the control electronics, which also has a microprocessor.

The panels’ microprocessor is connected directly to the data buss and address buss of the panel, which in turn controls
the lamps and reads the buttons and analog controls (the potentiometers and fader).

The following is required to free up the data buss and address buss of the panel and allow external connection.

1. Remove the panel electronics from its case -

Turn the panel over and using a ‘star’ screwdriver, remove the top four screws and the bottom four screws.
2. At the top of the unit in between the two circuit boards unplug the interface cable that connects the bottom
board to the DB15 connector that goes to the rear of the unit. Note that it has a pin blanked so you can
identify its polarity when reconnecting. The following picture shows the microprocessor already removed.
 3. Using a small screwdriver remove the large integrated circuit as labeled in the above picture called
MICROPROCESSOR. This can be achieved by slowly levering it up alternating between each end.
Being gentle will prevent you from damaging any other components surrounding the unit.
This microprocessor will no longer be needed, so store away in case you need to restore the panel back to
controlling the GVG100 electronics.
4. If you are not going to proceed with the other panel modifications, reconnect the interface cable that
connects the bottom board to the DB15 connector that goes to the rear of the unit and connect a 20 pin DIL
plug onto the connector on the left. This connector (J2) is what you will use to interface your own controller.
5. Reinstall the panel electronics into its case.

For connection to J2 (the 20 pin DIL) use the following pin layout –

GVG110 test header (J2)

pin function pin function
1 gnd 11 W0
2 gnd 12 W1
3 +5V 13 W2
4 D7 14 W3
5 read analog 15 D0
6 D6 16 D1
7 conv. analog 17 D2
8 D5 18 write LAMP select
9 display 19 D3
10 D4 20 read button sel.
MODIFYING THE PANEL FOR 9 VOLT ONLY OPERATION

As discussed earlier the GVG110 control panel was designed to use 9 volts for the panel electronics and 14 volts for the
lamp illumination. The 14 volts is also used to power the main fader electronics, and the 4 built in panel LEDs (fader up
arrow, fader down arrow, KEY ON and DSK ON). Lamps traditionally require a higher voltage because they are based on
illumination using a burning filament in a vacuum. Blame Edison.

To use a single voltage, we have to replace all the lamps with LEDs (light emitting diodes).

The following are the circuit board modifications –

1. Remove the panel electronics from its case.

Turn the panel over and using a ‘star’ screwdriver, remove the top four screws and the bottom four screws.
2. At the top of the unit in between the two circuit boards, unplug the interface cable that connects the
bottom board to the DB15 connector that goes to the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the other eight ‘star’ screws. The panel and interface cable should come away from the electronics.

There is no need to remove any more screws or panels as all the modifications can be done on the rear.

Modifying the voltage input

The GVG110 panel has 2 x 1 amp 5 volt voltage regulators. Both regulators get 9 volts at its inputs, and outputs the
required 5 volts. We need to supply this 5 volts to what was the 14 volt supply rail, which conveniently runs around the
outside of the board. Remember now that we are no longer going to feed 14 volts in, so we just have to leave those pins
on the input connector vacant.
Solder a wire from pins 4 and 5 of the control cable connector (J3) to the OUT of the 5 V REG as shown above. This will
place regulated 5 volts onto what was the 14 volt supply rail.

Modifying the voltage to the fader electronics

Unlike the other potentiometers on GVG110 control panel that swing from 0 volts to 5 volts, the fader does not. It
swings between two undefined voltages which are then converted to a 0 volt to 5 volt swing using a built in ‘op amp’.

This ‘op amp’ gets its voltage from the 14 volt rail because it needs a higher voltage than 5 volts if it is to output 5 volts.
As we are inputting 9 volts to feed the on board voltage regulators, we can use this same 9 volt to drive the ‘op amp’.

This modification alters the functionality of the ‘op amp’, as it was designed to run at 14 volts, but luckily Grass Valley
installed two trimpots inside the panel (accessible via the slot where the fader arm moves) that allows us to compensate
for this difference. A picture later will show the access points.

So using the picture above, solder a wire onto the IN of the 5 V REG and the other end onto the top left pin (8) of the IC
as shown below. (Don’t rush, just think, and triple check)
Because this pin is connected to the 14 volt rail we also need to cut the track that connects it. There are two different
boards that can be in the GVG110 control panel so the pictures may alter slightly, but is very obvious.

Version 1 of the circuit board Version 2 of the circuit board

The track identified in the red circle needs to be cut to ensure the 9 volt rail and 14 volt rail (now 5 volt) are isolated.
 The top trimpot adjusts the maximum value The bottom trimpot adjusts the minimum value

In the software I have written for Arduino control of the GVG110, I have a special routine that allows for the quick setup
of these two trimpots. You simply move the fader to the top position, which reveals the lower trimpot, and then adjust
the lower trimpot until the GVG110 display panel reads 0 0 0. It doesn’t matter if you adjust it too far into the ‘zero’s,
just as long as it never goes above zero. Move the fader away and back again to make sure it always goes to zero. If you
go too far into the zeros it will reduce the ‘resolution’ of the fader but still give you a complete fade.

Now move the fader to the bottom position which reveals the upper trimpot, and then adjust the upper trimpot until the
GVG110 display panel reads 2 5 5. Again, it doesn’t matter if you adjust it too far past 255, just as long as it never goes
below 255. Move the fader away and back again to make sure it always goes to 255. If you go too far past 255 it will
reduce the ‘resolution’ of the fader but still give you a complete fade.

Modifying the voltage to the IN PANEL LEDs

The four built in panel LEDs (fader up arrow, fader down arrow, KEY ON and DSK ON) are also connected to the 14 volt
rail (I do not have the circuit diagrams so I have no idea why…). These LEDs need to be taken off the 14 volt rail (now 5
volts) and put on the 9 volt rail. If you do not do this modification, these four LEDs will not work.
Again there are two versions of this part of the circuit board but they are in the same location.

Cut the track that feeds the 14 volt rail to the LED resistors as below.

Version 1 of the circuit board Version 2 of the circuit board

As can be seen in the picture above, on the LEFT, the circuit board tracks needs to be cut on both sides of the
connection, but the picture on the RIGHT just needs one track cut.

First let’s discuss the LEFT picture modification.

Once the two sides of the connection have been cut, we need to reconnect the 14 volt rail back on to S20.

Connect a wire from the 14 volt rail as seen above. Then connect a wire from the top left pin (8) of the IC that we last
connected, to the pin we isolated when we did the two cuts.
Next, lets discuss the right picture modification.

Connect a wire from the top left pin (8) of the IC that we last connected, to the pin we isolated when we did the single
cut.

This next part is optional but I recommend it.

For some reason (again, no circuits) the four built in panel LEDs; fader up arrow, fader down arrow, KEY ON and DSK ON,
do not glow as bright as they use to. So I added four 220 ohm parallel resistors on top of the existing resistors to
increase the power going to the LEDs thus increasing their brightness but not over-driving them.

This can be seen here –

Please note that it may look like there are five required but only four are needed and make sure they are connected the
same as the picture. This optional modification applies to both versions of the circuit board.
Modifying the buttons to replace the Lamps with LEDs

This is highly recommended, as the Lamps will not be visible with the above modifications and will only work with the
original 14 volt input.

1. Remove all the keycaps by gently pulling them upwards. You may need bullnose pliers to convince them, but
they should come up fairly easily
2. Remove all the Lamps using a small piece of outer cable plastic and some fine nosed pliers, trying not to break
the glass of the lamp. If you break the glass you have to clean it out because it will make it hard for the LEDs.

This is the ‘KEY’ button with the cover removed and the specialized removal tool attached.

I used a piece of network cable outer plastic which can also be used when inserting the new LEDs.
Notice that the lamp has pins that go into receptacles within the button.

3. Get the LED required and cut the pins to approximately 15mm, then insert into the plastic holder ready to
reinsert into the button.
Unlike Lamps which can go in either way, LEDs need to be connected the right way around.
When inserting the LED, ensure that the ‘larger’ component inside the LED ( the Cathode) is always on the LEFT,
EXCEPT the ‘ASPECT’ button; for some reason, every panel I have modified has this one reversed, where the
cathode goes on the RIGHT!

If you insert a LED the wrong way around it will not damage anything, it just will not work until you remove it
and turn it around.
 4. When inserting the LED, you have to line up the two pins to go into the 2 sockets within the button. You may
need to push down the exposed outer ring of the button to get a better look. When it is aligned correctly and
you gently push down, you will feel a definite bump, indicating it’s locked in.

In the software I have written for Arduino control of the GVG110, I have a special routine that allows for an ‘all LEDs ON’
for test purposes, but it also helps if the button is activated when inserting the LED, as the illumination from it helps to
see the holes.

Also, don’t cut the LEDs leads too long as the LED will bend over when re-inserting the button cap, and the illumination
of the LED will be one sided.

*NOTE: The ‘TRANSITION CUT’ does NOT have a circuit to drive a lamp/LED even though it may have a Lamp installed.
This is not a fault. It is designed that way.
Modifying the DSK CUT LED to indicate Mix/Effects 2 under ACTIVE CONTROL

As many may be aware, the GVG panels never had active lamps in either the CUT or dskCUT buttons.
In fact the wiring connections to the lamps inside the buttons never existed.
But on research it was found that there was one spare lamp activation pin not used on the GVG 100 and GVG110 panels
(it is used on the GVG 1000 panel for 'keyer 2').
Here is a small hardware mod to allow the dskCUT LED to indicate Mix/Effects 2 as being under ACTIVE CONTROL.
(also note that this LED will be ON when initial power applied which is indicating startup data exchange between the
GVG controller and the ATEM)

Software change -
In the past, you could use the TELNET to tell the GVG which M/E to use.

me 2

This will still function, and now with this modification, the dskCUT LED will FLASH if you have selected M/E 2, and be OFF
if you have selected M/E 1.
In addition, on the GVG panel, pressing SHIFT+dskCUT will toggle between M/E 1 and M/E 2.
This change also required MOVING the 'soft panel reset' function FROM "SHIFT+dskCUT" TO "dskCUT".

Hardware change -
All the hardware change involves is 2 wires and a 220ohm resistor. The change is the same for ALL GVG 1xx panels.

Note that one end of the 220 ohm resistor is not connected to any pin (floating).
Ensure the wire is on IC 10 pin 18. This is
the wire that goes to the floating end of
the 220 ohm resistor as seen above.

This shows the 3 items in place.

NOW DON'T FORGET TO INSTAL A LED
IN THE BUTTON (doh!).
I chose BLUE as it is the colour of my
eyes.