DIGITAL FASHION

FOR SUSTAINABLE
CHANGE

APPENDICES
1. Brand 1
2. Focus Group 4
3. Gaming observation and Interviews 7
4. Fundamental Needs 10
5. Insight Clusters 11
6. Factor processing 14
7. Future context framework 15
9. Workshops 18

1
1 BRAND ANALYSIS
Touchpoints
Core competences Strategy wheel
TOMMY HILFIGER SALES CHANNELS
3D Design TH
Product
Software development
/ technical know-how

B2C B2B wholesale

Finances Marketing

Department Pure players

B&M Retail Online Websites
store (online)
Management Collaborative
and organisation culture

Organisation
and personel
Online Brick and Mortar
Brand awareness
Willingness to
change

Sustainable and Connection to TOMMY HILFIGER COMMUNICATION CHANNELS

deeper consumer
values
TH

Company culture Coherent Brand

Narrative B2C B2B
Product

Brand Lens
INTERNAL (sales) EXTERNAL

B&M Retail Tommy.com Indirect posts

Value Heritage
Can we retrieve value from our
innovation in terms of money or
Does the innovation fit our Personnel Windows
brand heritage?
brand equity?

Brand narrative Vision Social Media

Can this innovation be the next Does the innovation contribute to
chapter of our brand narrative? the vision of wasting nothing or
welcoming all?

SW Snapchat Instagram Facebook Twitter

Skills and Weaknessess O T
Brand principles
Does the innovation leverage our Does the innovation fit our brand
skills or take away one of our principles in a way that we will be viewed
weaknessess? as: quality-obsessed, circular, cool,
inclusive and real?
For example we are skilled in 3D
design through STITCH, so we
can use 3D

2 3
2 FOCUS GROUP

This appendix features the insights of a focus group to follow their intuition. After this, everyone extensively true selves such as women that advocate body clothes at home, which they can use for both
around the narrow topic of “online interaction and presented and discussed the choices made: whether positivity or transgenders sharing their stories. At formal and informal moments (in video calls)
appearance”. The group consisted of four girls (21-23 they shared the reasoning or not. the same time they still have a hard time expressing 4. Social media is their go to place for inspirations.
yo), and a boy (22 yo). their selves completely honestly, worried about the They take inspiration from influencers, brands,
This process provided interesting insights into (a) social backlash. creative accounts but also from friends and
Participants were asked to keep track of their activities the value people attach to their appearance in the acquaintances.
3 days before the session around this topic. presence of different audiences, (b) the sought-after Interaction 5. There is an increasing interest in smaller ‘grounded’
The session consisted of two sections. The first characteristics of these outfits (c) the influence of time, 1. Spontaneous communication happens mostly with influencers that they can relate to. Often they
section used several brainstorming and drawing location, audience and channel and especially (d) the their inner circle, as soon as there is interaction consider these people ‘hidden gems’, and copy
techniques in order of the ‘path of expression’ with a dilemmas that accompany them. with people outside that circle there is a need for their ideas or style as if it were their own.
main focus on interaction, (identity)presentation and preparation. 6. Exposure is often short-lived, so it should be
social media usage. The second section used the The following main insights were retrieved from this 2. Most online contact with is with like-minded people, striking. People want to show their best side.
choice for certain outfits per channel to discover the focusgroup: sharing most personal and honest content (like 7. They feel confident through the outfits they wear,
deeper ‘latent’ needs selfies) only to people in their inner circle. especially new outfits strengthen their self image.
The activities they mostly do online, with a significant 3. They feel connected to the people who share the 8. Clothing is chosen based on personal style and
increase since the pandemic in bold. same values. aesthetic preferences, but the influence of friends
4. Have a hard time exposing their ‘true self’ online as is acknowledged. Their main concerns are about
Section 1: • Socializing via chat or temporary photo-platforms – their audience is big and mixed, they worry about the fit of the apparel, and whether or not it flatters
1. Present: First a generative collaging exercises WhatsApp, Snapchat, Instagram chat/stories the backlash. They want to stay ‘cool’ to all. the body in real life and on pictures.
was used to describe what they find important in online • Socializing or meeting via video calls - Zoom, 5. Snapchat is the digital version of the pub; they feel 9. Posts only make the cut when their appearance is
interaction and appearance, with their track-record Facetime, Hangout, House Party etc. the freedom to be spontaneous and crazy because ‘fitting’, outfits are preferable only posted once.
as inspiration. Their task was to create a visual that • Scrolling through their social media accounts – it disappears. This way they can prevent backlash 10. Variety of appearance is important in all forms.
represented ‘People and I on the internet’. Participants Instagram, TikTok while still fooling around. They want to show their diversity; to create an
were encouraged to use visuals, emojis or text. • Exercising at home – YouTube (Pamela Reiff, Sammi 6. In general they want to deviate from everyday image that is as “real” as possible as they feel a
The collages were presented to one another and a Clarke), Nike app routine (lead an interesting life), this has become person has several sides/identities and cannot be
discussion was started. • Experimenting with new hobbies like cooking and harder due to the pandemic so they have started pigeon-holed. These multiple sides make someone
2. Past: Second, all channels the participants had painting – Pinterest, YouTube, TikTok looking for opportunities to ‘forget’ reality by playing authentic.
visited for interaction or visual presentation (appearance) • Watching Netflix games, group-calling with friends and picking up
purposes were shortly discussed. Similarities and • Browsing and shopping old computer games like SIMS. Authenticity
differences were clarified. Participants were asked 7. “I feel like I watch more on the internet and do 1. What you post must match your image, otherwise
the last time they had interacted with people via that Values more in real life. I use it especially for inspiration, it is seen as pretentious.
channel, and what was striking in these situations. 1. Sustainability is a hot topic, woven throughout their entertainment and connecting with people. Friends 2. They are aware that their online exposure influences
Break game: To probe participants with the fundamental entire lives. ¾ have turned vegetarian because of mine, and younger people are more actively their (future) professional life. Funny, weird or
needs, a short competition was held where they were of the environment in the past 2 years and all engaged with the internet though, they play games prejudice-sensitive (e.g. student associations)
asked to match a selection of the poetic descriptions participants want to work in companies that actively and create stuff” content is mostly posted on temporary or closed
(appendix 1) to a set of pre-selected pictures. Nuances work on sustainable solutions. channels like Instagram stories or Snapchat and
and questions during they game in case of unclarity 2. Although they are aware about the polluting Digital Appearance whatsapp.
were quickly discussed. character of the fashion industry, they still have a 1. Don’t spend a lot of time processing other people’s 3. At the same time they use their open-exposure as
3. Future: Brainstorm carrousel per channel. hard time incorporating it in their day to day actions posts, but quickly form their opinion. This realization an opportunity to show their entrepreneurial spirit,
Participants were asked to write down associations, as they don’t want to compromise for style. They increases the time they spend on their own posts. creativity and assertiveness. “I like to show what my
problems, experiences and dreams for each type of like the idea of vintage and resale, but still prefer Biggest concern is if it will fit the image they have so passions are, what I’m good at and the activities I
channel. traditional retail/ecommerce for convenience, fit- carefully portrayed. enjoy doing, that is what defines me” – Sybren 22
reliability and visualization reasons. 2. Like clothing, they use their social channels as a 4. Creativity is fostered and admired. Showing
Section 2: 3. Once a topic gets picked up by the crowd on translucent means of communication, portraying personal work is seen as a brave act, as it truly
Most of the session (+ -45min) consisted of exploring the social media, it increases social awareness and parts of their interior world they want to be seen. reflects someone’s inner self. It is perceived as
connection between fashion and online presentation. spark value-discussions in real life. It’s a place for 3. They especially value appearance when they meet scary but exhilarating at the same time.
Participants were given 5 minutes to choose a garment information and inspiration. people they don’t know very well yet. “When I go 5. Entrepreneurial spirit on social media is embraced.
that best ‘fit’ each of the pre-studied and analyzed social 4. Find it normal but important that everyone is out, I always make sure I dress normally and nice” Even when they don’t like the aesthetics or products
channels. Due to the short time frame they were forced accepted, and admire people who show their They are looking for comfortable and versatile being sold, they think people who create and share

4 5
 3 GAMING OBSERVATION AND INTERVIEWS

their passions are cool. One of the first use cases of digital fashion are the Value of fashion in gaming
6. Filters are sometimes seen as the ‘easy way out’, outfits avatars wear in games, called ‘skins’. Three The way value of cosmetic products in games is
pictures that are pretty by itself are preferred. in-depth interviews were held to research how the created and maintained is analysed in framework x:
7. “I wanted new clothes, and I always like it when skins create value for the consumer and what value is Value creation of fashion in gaming (next page). This
other people give their opinion about it. Other created and desired. The sessions lasted around 1,5 framework describes three levels that play a role in value
people are eventually the ones that have to look at – 2hours, and consisted of an observation part and a creation: the context in which the avatar finds itself, the
them, not me, so it is nice when they like it. But of semi-structured interview. Insights from all observing product features, and the needs it satisfies. Each level
course you have to like it yourself first” – Sybren 22f sessions and interviews are gathered and described contains a set of variables that influence the perceived
8. I think filters are fun to play around with. Filters below. value of the virtual cosmetic. It strongly resembles the
are nice as they make pictures “more beautiful” way social media and physical fashion gain and maintain
but I also like to keep it real. Because it is easy to The participants sat down with me under the their value, and are therefore used as inspiration for
make things more beautiful with filters, but then it impression that they would ‘teach me to game’. future digital fashion solutions.
immediately looks a bit fake. In the mean time they talked me through their
usual routines, shared past experiences and future Context level
dreams. In their ‘natural habitat’, playing at the time To what extent consumers recognise the value of virtual
of observation/ interviewing they could easily go fashion for their avatars depends on 5 characteristics:
back to earlier memories, paid no attention to me , to what extent they get (dis)approval of others, the
while taking notes, and seemingly felt no pressured variety of products available, the amount of time spent
to answer ‘correctly’ to questions. in the context, frequency of visits to the context and
finally amount of time a person sees themselves or their
Participant A: F, 11 yo, Amsterdam (virtual interview/ avatar. These characteristics can be used as selection
observation) criteria when evaluating new contexts for digital
Hobbies: drawing, hockey, gaming and dancing. fashion. Not every characteristic should necessarily be
Doesn’t identify as a ‘gamer’. maximised, but the more a context checks the boxes,
Games: Fortnite, AnimalCrossing, Roblox, … the bigger the value.
Devices: Nintendo Switch, Playstation 3, PC, Ipad,
Iphone. Plays mostly on Iphone and Ipad, but For instance, if we would like to sell digital fashion to
Fortnite on PC (due to Apple ristrictions) working women, we would recognise that Zoom is an
Last year of primary school interesting place as they currently spend most time
working remotely, join zoom calls each day, and are
Participant B: M, 21 yo, Delft (physical interview/ confronted with their own appearance during each
observation) session.
Hobbies: Football, gaming and ‘hanging out with
friends at home’. Identifies as a ‘gamer’. Product level
Games: Fifa, Runscape, League of Legends, World On a product level, 7 value drivers are identified that
of Warcraft influence the perceived value of a virtual product. The
Devices: Xbox, PC drivers are used as inspiration for the design of a digital
Student Economics. fashion product/service.
These categories should be viewed as answers to the
Participant C: M, 13 yo, Utrecht (virtual interview/ question “Why do you want this particular product”:
observation)
Hobbies: Hockey, chilling, chess
Games: Fortnite Needs level
Devices: Tablet, Samsung Galaxy Each product driver links to a set of fundamental needs
Second year of high school it satisfies.

6 7
 Their own fantasies or stories are devised around the (their avatars) a lot more.
game. Children enjoy giving their own interpretation to People want to be seen and stand out in the crowd,
the existing context of the game: “Suppose you have and use their outfits.
the map, and then there is a castle and that is mine, Games enable you to be friends with people from all
and I am Lucy the queen of the island.” over the world.

Shopping “But Atle is one of those guys that I still follow, and
The digital asset store is seen as the same as a this is just a guy who lives in Norway, that I still
physical store. interact with from time to time: so cool” - Ties
There is a need to customize your avatar and make it
unique according to your own taste. Escapism:
They have a sense of ownership and protectiveness “Gaming is just super addictive. Once you start
over their digital assets because they’ve paid for them playing it’s just so immersive. This has a very high
with (real) money. level of escapism. You start, and then suddenly you
There is consumerism in digital assets: the more the ‘wake up’ six hours later.” - Ties
better. Satisfaction is gained from owning things and
the ability to vary.

[what would you do if someone would take your skin?]

“Of course I would think that would be very stupid!
Friends else owns the same skin. She wanted me to know I paid for that skin, so he just steals my money.”-
During gaming there is constant social interaction she also belongs to that person. Florens
with new or existing friends. Someone is considered a People use gaming to take on different personalities,
‘friend’ if there is already one repeating conversation. and play with identity. Legacy
You can always play with other people. You never It’s cool to have limited edition assets.
have to be alone. Your own status increases when you are linked to Skins increase in value because of limited editions
You don’t just play to win, but also to have interaction someone of high status in the game. (scarcity). Outfits are linked to memories and thus
with other players. Having digital skins is considered cool, and almost acquire extra symbolic value. “Wow were you there?”
a necessity. It is not only about which, but also how These types of skins can also equate to skill because
Competence many skins have been bought. Interaction with other it indicates how long you have been playing.
There (still) is a general feeling that girls are less skilled gamers changes if your avatar looks different: “people
in gaming. think you’re poor or boring if you are a default skin “The last skin I bought is a BASE, which is an OG
Status is determined by: “ - Lucy skin. Some skins only come out in a certain time, and
- type and amount of digital assets (especially then it’s cool to wear them because that’s a memory.”
in social games) “There are a lot of cool skins. Lots of kids are really - Lucy
- your skill level in the game obsessed with skins, just like me. I spent a lot of
V-bucks already, so that’s why I should quit a bit .. Identification
Influencers I have a lot of skins, 30 or 40 or something” (this is An avatar isn’t seen as a replica of oneself, it’s an
There are gaming influencers who follow and stream, around. (Skins cost between 8-20 dollars, so spent opportunity to be ‘someone else’. People like to play
when watching these streams it’s more about the between 420 and 560 euros). -Lucy with different features or gender.
‘influencer’ than the game. An avatar is just a medium to communicate through.
It’s all about ‘good content’, with a focus on humor Community. Avatar is used to connect to other people, and
and entertainment. By upgrading your default skin you show that you communicate.
It’s okay if something is staged, as long as it’s funny / know what you are doing and that you are part of the
fun to watch. community: you are not a newcomer. Concentration
People enjoy going undercover and provoking other Low attention span, likely to switch platforms easily
people. (Social media) Only want to make the effort to post when a better alternative comes along. She does so
Game streaming is used for entertainment (gloating). something online if they get appreciated for it. If not in games, social media and other apps.
In general follow people who make them laugh (on enough likes are given, the post will be deleted. This Gratification is needed to keep a game / platform
twitch, TikTok and YouTube). Search for fun content. would create a feeling of insecurity. interesting (likes, wins etc).
The reason to put something online is so that other
Skins and recognition people can view it: “If other people don’t see it, or like Community
Proud of her digital assets and wanted to show them it, then why would I put it online?” - Lucy Outfits are linked to skills if they are ‘originals’ / limited
all. / special.
Some skins are cooler than others depending on who Phantasy world: People who play multiplayer value the way they look

8 9
4 FUNDAMENTAL NEEDS 5 INSIGHT CLUSTERS
Fundamental Need Sub-need Interpretation A: "I want to.." Interpretation B "I want to.." Interpretation C "I want to.." Examples of need fulfillment Pushed, can lead to:
Be able to go against other
Be my own boss / be free to make people's opinion for something I
Autonomy Freedom of decision decisions on my own believe in Know what my options are Being free to make your own decisions in life obstinate
Be able to think freely without Going against other people's opinion for something A combination of the consumer insights gained from Cluster 6: Sociability of games
Individuality Be independent limitations of others Be able to fix things on my own you believe in antisocial
Give shape and content to my art Dare to deviate from the status Be able to use creativity in my life's the interviews and focus group, and larger trend Millennials & Gen Z use gaming platforms as social
research. networks to play but also to connect with their friends.
Creative expression as I see fit quo actions Being able to use your creativity in your life's actions
Self-reliance Be able to take care of myself Stand on my own two feet Foresee dangers and act accordingly
Enjoy the calmth and beauty of a
organized, ordered or sorted see or wear things fit together The immersive nature of the gaming world attracts Gen
Beauty Unity and order Experience unity and order
Be graceful and stylish in
things
Make it feel like what I do is
aesthetically Enjoying the beauty of a well-designed garden extravagance
Z to socialise and hangout anywhere they want, and
Elegance and finesse appearance or manner
Submerge myself in aesthetically
effortless Own , carry or see elegant products Being moved by fine arts Over-groomed
Cluster 5: Ways to escape is becoming ‘more social’ than traditional social media
Artistic experiences
pleasing or sense-stimulating
experiences
Enjoy beautifull products and the
effort/craft/skill put into them
See, own and experience beautiful
things
Being pleased by the details of an elegantly crafted
piece of furniture In our increasingly stressful society, people are because of its intuitive nature.
seeking new forms of mood alteration and an easy A big increase can be seen in the amount of users on
platforms focusing on socialising rather than competition
Make it feel like what I/it look(s) Be beautiful (for a convenient/easier
Natural beauty Find / express natural beauty like is effortless life, to attract people/mate?)
escape from reality (FI, 2020). As people increasingly
elements such as Fortnite Party Royale (350 million
Sitting back in your chair at the end of a hectic
Comfort Peace of mind Be free from worry Relax Trust life / Believe all will be alright workday Indolence work from home, and the pandemic put restrictions
Convenience Things to be easy to do/get
Put little effort in getting
something done Walk the path of least resistance
Having someone else organize your entire home
moving Hyper-sensitive on physical travel, this search only grew. People try active users), Roblox (150 milion monthly active users)
Simplicity
Things to be clear and
straightforward Understand things easily Filling out a simple and clear form to find ways to deviate from everyday routine, and and Animal Crossing: New Horizons (62,7 million)
lead an interesting life. Form. The average monthly
Be able to quickly/easily assess Stay focused on the important
Overview and structure information things
Live peacefully according to the
searches for “virtual” grew +235% (may 2020 vs Underlying fundamental needs: Community, Stimulation
(Respectfully) live side by side socially accepted rules of an
Community Social harmony Experience mutual respect with the people around me environment Beig part of a group that you can rely on, like family Submission
2019), as the lockdown forced virtual experiences to
Cluster 7: Authenticity is uniqueness
Feel a sense of belonging to a To experience a confidence from Behaving in accordance to the rules and values of your
Affiliation and group identity group of people the people around you grorup Mindlessness
become the new real for consumers, businesses and
Rooting (tradition, culture)
Feel connected to others through
empirical experiences or origins
Identifying with a certain group (i.g. prrofession, club,
country) institutions. With facebook launching its stand alone Humans want to be unique (Maslow, 1954). The concept
Conformity (fitting in)
Be accepted and appreciated by
others in the group I identify with
Be appreciated by the ones I
appreciate
Have others identify me as part of a
group, I identify myself with aswell $299 USD Oculus Quest VR glasses back in 2020, of authenticity is changing and gets an extra dimension
Competence
Add: self-efficacy?
Knowledge and understanding
Challenge
Know what I'm doing, and why
Being challenged in what I do Be able to fight for something Work towards victory
Winning a tennis match
Managing your rfinance well
Perfectionism
Control-freak the standalone sector saw 19% growth (Graham, from merely being real and true, toward being unique.
Environmental Control
Directly affect the events around
me
Be in control (De touwtjes in
handen hebben)
Feel you're writing your own
book/history Believing that you are a good parent 2021). Facebook expects VR to be the next social 1 in 3 Gen Zers says, “I would rather be considered
Notice I'm getting better at
platform. unique than real” which is complete pivot from their
Skill progression something Actively learn new things
Fitness Nourishment Be satisfied and nourished Feeling energetic after physical exercises Health-freak previous generations (Davies, 2020). Their large online
networks and exposure to global trends make it difficult
Health Be, or feel healthy Feeling fit after a good night's sleep self-indulgance
Feel energetic and resilient, In this search, they join virtual experiences to escape
Energy and strength
Hygiene
mentally and physically
Take care of myself physically
Feel fit and strong
Take time for self-care Feel clean and hygienic
Feeling satiated after a nutrious meal
home together. Video-calls offer the opportunity to to stand out; admiring unique people and experiences
Have an effect on something or
someone (character, development connect with the ones we love, and virtual (gaming) even more. As Simmel (1950) put it: “People define and
Impact Influence Influence what others do or think or behavior)
Experience being part of a Experience having an effect on a
Seeing everyone happy at the party you organized megalomania
experiences even to meet people outside their inner are defined by that which they are not”.
Contribution
To Build something
Feel I'm contributing to something movement
Create something Develop something
development Seeing your letter to a newspaper published
Seeing your garden develop
meddlesome
(daily) circle.
Fundamental Needs: Beauty, stimulation, Impact,
Recognition
Legacy Write history Look back on what I have achieved

Morality Have guiding principles Know your boundaries

Treat others the way you want to Live by your personal beliefs and
be treated values Fulfilling your duties as a father zealotry
“When you’re always in the same location, you need
Live according to high moral to sort of fake the location shifts” (Rich, 2020)
Acting Virtuously standards
Strive for / expect / want equal
Knowingly do the right thing Behave altruistically Seeing that a game is played fairly unforgiving
Cluster 8: (Artificial) Dreams can be created
A just society opportunities for everyone
Live up to the expectations of my
Passing on the value of generosity to your children
People will always travel to recharge, experience If you can dream it, you can create it. Opportunities to
Fulfilling duties role Fulfill my duties
Know your actions add up to a
Do as I promise
new adventures and meet curiosity needs. The only experiment and express online are endless, and Gen Z
Purpose Life goals and direction Realise dreams and aspirations higher end goal Know what you are doing it for Finding meaning in life through rerligion restlessness
question is, in what form? Virtual games like Roblox experiences more safety, control and autonomy online
than in real life (Rich, 2020). People always desire to
Feel like your contributing to the
Meaningful activity Feel useful happiness of others Work toward a goal I find important Knowing where a relationship is going madness
and Fortnite became a place for organizing remote, live
realise their dreams and aspirations, and with Gen Z’s
Increase my selfconsiousness and Develop and utilize personal skills
Personal growth selfknowledge and talents Better my quality of life Spending time to keep up with world affairs events like fashion shows, concerts and conferences
Spirituality Be conscious Be inspired Find and follow your belief system
Feel thankfullness from others (for (Fortnite and Roblox). digital skillset they can do so, be it virtually. Tech realises
Recognition Appreciation
Feel people appreciate or desire
my presence Know that I matter
my actions), know that others are
proud of me Being commended for your volunteer work attention-sucker
their fantasy worlds and ideal identities.
Important to note is that the most popular video
Be admired for my ideas or
Respect qualities Be treated nicely / politely Be taken seriously Getting positive attention with your new clothes pretension
Others to look up to me / impress Distinguish myself with my
games are infinite (FI, 2020). They are online worlds, They use digital tools to enhance or experiment with
Status and prestige others Be admired by others successes being treated politely at a store
Be liked, admired, or supported by Have a lot of friends / people who
where players can participate whenever and for their online identities. People are increasingly aware of
this ‘fake’ content, but don’t always mind as long as it
Popularity many people get positive attention want to be friends with me
feel deep affection or sexual love Have people in my life who exactly Having close contact with people that you care for however long they like; truly ‘living’ in - or escaping
Relatedness Love and intimacy from someone
Have a special relationship with
Feel safe with someone
Experience mental trust and
know who I am
experience loyalty from others in a
(and care for you)
Having a special relationship with people that are
over-dependance
to - the virtual space. entertains. This acceptation of ‘fake’ can be seen on
Camaraderie people i find important
Care for and protect what/who I
friendship group important to you
Having people in your life who know exactly who you
separation anxiety
social media where people increasingly use beauty
To nurture and care find important
Feel empathy and compassion
Be cared for
Know others concern about my
have a social safety net
be supported in my thoughts and
are
Underlying fundamental needs: Comfort, Relatedness, filters, or interact and follow synthetic media figures such
Emotional support from others wellbeing dilemmas over-protetive
Stimulation as @lilmiquela and @shudugram as real ‘life-influencers’.
Live in a stable and safe Feel my environment keeps me
Security Physical safety environment safe from physical harms/threats Having enough money to face potential crisis fear of change In a way they are seen as more authentic than human
influencers as they don’t to pretend to live .
Have peace of mind, and
Have enough money to face experience certainty in my Know I can cover my expenses (now

“I just think it’s good content. But most of the time it is

Financial security potential crisis financial situation and in the future) exersing familiar habits and rituals
Have a life structure and a reliable
Social Stability Have stable social ties routine Living in a stable and safe environment
Be ready for variables because of
Conservation Know where I stand the presence of constants in life Excersize familiar habits and rituals
Find new rewarding experiences
Stimulation Novelty Be amazed/surprised (improve future life) Explore and Learn Gratifying the senses (e.g. enjoying good food) thrill-addiction

10
Add: Escapism? Variation
Deviate from everyday routine
(lead an interesting life)
Seek distraction and relief from
unpleasant realities
Test various options (to find the best
one) Having stimulating aesthetic experiences (e.g. art) substance-abuse
11
Play Have fun, laugh and experience joy Stimulate our imagination Relieve stress Going out to a new club
Gratify all 6 senses (e.g. art, food, Feel alive (and experience life's Have stimulating aesthetic
Bodily pleasure sex..) limits) experiences (e.g. art)
 staged a bit, because the content is just too good. It has Fundamental needs: Autonomy, Competence Gen Z recognizes their creative power as well, changing also makes it more difficult for people (or brands) to
to be. But I don’t mind, as long as it’s funny” (lucy,11). Cluster 11: The malleability of man their relations with brands. They want to connect and connect. Temporary visual content (Instagram stories
(Artificially) crafted images and identities online shift our collaborate with brands, opposed to merely consume. or Snapchat) even increase this effect. The knowledge
In virtual worlds they experiment with different identities image of ‘realistic’ humanity. These images have shifted They want to create a better future together and that something won’t backfire combined with the fact
even more freely. Dressing up their avatars in different the generations’ view on beauty, and has created a feel like they have a purpose and impact. (Interview that a picture/visual ‘says more than a 1000 words’
outfits, changing facial and body features or even feeling of ‘malleability of man’. Hoppenbrouwer; YOUTH IN PANDEMIC, 2020) lay a foundation for subcultural languages.
gender. Interestingly skins are seen as ‘the avatar’ rather Millions of people edit their photos online to meet
than the outfit of the avatar (“if you are a default skin, if conventional beauty standards using filters or editing Fundamental needs: Autonomy, Beauty, Stimulation Underlying fundamental needs: Relatedness,
you are a base skin etc”). apps (especially in China) (Ewe, 2020) and as video Community, Stimulation
calling (informal and formal) has skyrocketed since Cluster 13: A peek into the creators’ process.
“One thing that happened a lot is gender change. It’s the pandemic, people are constantly confronted with There is an increasing desire for a peek into the creator’s Cluster 16: We dress to belong
freedom. It’s redesigning your own personality. It’s less their own face, the requests for plastic surgery have process on channels like Twitch and Youtube, ranging We value our appearance the most in places and
about the ‘big boobs/big lips’ thing where we try to skyrocketed along (Meeson, 2020). from (music) artists and chefs to gamers. To date there at moments we encounter people we don’t know
mimic the physical ideals of beauty, but it was much are 900 Million ‘viewers’: people watching other people very well yet, or whom we want to impress (work,
more about redefining what beauty means to you, and Synthetic stars (like @lilmiquela) are a new type of play games on platforms such as Twitch (Lafayette, acquaintances, crushes). This is true for the physical
creating something that is recognizable but even a influencer, whom can be given any desired beauty ideal, 2020). Twitch is even evolving beyond its gamer roots, worlds as well as the digital. Like clothing, they use
bit quirky or strange. A new own direction.” – Adriana and would never say/do anything off-message, unless offering a home for young artists live-streaming their their social channels (and the outfits they wear on
Hoppenbrouwer about their digital twin user research. it was planned. Interestingly enough they are created creative process (Irregular Labs, 2020). When watching, pictures) as a translucent means of communication,
3D is a place of freedom, and shouldn’t replicate reality. to be more human than most models are presented in their crave for newness is key. portraying parts of their interior world they want to
That’s what photography already does. When you are in magazine after endless photoshopping and retouching. be seen and to show in what way they want to be
the 3D space, that is when you can be anybody. [on artist process] “I just like to watch I guess, it can be identified or associated with. Also in virtual (gaming)
Fundamental needs: Beauty, Recognition so satisfying!! .. I watch something different every time, worlds, social codes and a sense of belonging arises:
Underlying fundamental needs: Stimulation, Autonomy, otherwise it will be boring” – Lucy, 11
Beauty Cluster 12: Generation of creative beings - “In the digital realm it is about curating
Tech realizes fantasy worlds; From an early age Interestingly, gaming content on Twitch is centred yourself for some kind of social connection”
Cluster 9: Experimentation is key and fun. technology has encouraged Gen Z to make their around the self-expression and social needs of the o Adriana
Both on social media accounts, and in virtual gaming ideas become a (virtual) reality in games like Minecraft, individual, not only their technical gaming ability (Plug
worlds is experimentation with their looks key. Be it to creating content for TikTok, streaming on Twitch, or even and Play, 2020). Underlying fundamental needs: Beauty, Community
test what other people think, or to see if they still like the giving a personal story to the avatars they live through.
posts (if it still fits their identity) after some time. People They were raised to have a wide imagination and aren’t Fundamental needs: Stimulation Cluster 17: Handling the information over-
watch videos on YouTube and Twitch to increase their yet bound to borders of reality. Moreover, children load
skillset, mix and match avatar outfits and take multiple experience more safety, control and autonomy in virtual Cluster 14: Nostalgia Content algorithms (e.g. TikTok for you page) are
pictures to see which ones get most likes, all in all: you worlds than in real life that enhances this creativity (Rich, Consumers are increasingly nostalgic about pre- welcomed with open arms because of their ever-
can’t learn how to drive by watching someone do it. 2020). pandemic experiences (trendhunter) improving accuracy and convenience factor; serving
“Sometimes I watch Twitch to learn tips and tricks, and Restaurants are still the place where peoples’ social them tailored content on a silver platter.
hacks!” “Suppose you have the map, and then there is a castle life takes place, landmark events are celebrated and Due to this instant accessibility, there is no need
and that is mine, and I am Lucy the queen of the island”– for learning about the different cultures that make up a to explore thoughts independently and in-depth,
Fundamental needs: Competence, Community and Lucy, 11 community (Guardian) causing Gen Z to become surface level experts
Recognition People are still looking for physical contact and (Protein, 2020). The more choice a person has, the
This push for creativity also goes beyond the digital experiences less likely (s)he will decide.
Cluster 10: The young are king and free domain. Customization of products have been around
online. for some time already, giving consumers the possibility Underlying fundamental needs: Stimulation At the same time, they watch the info fed to them
When faced with consumption barriers, gen Z is able to to put their personal touch and join the creative on ‘stand-by mode’, where only strong repetition or
utilize their advanced tech skills to overcome restrictions process. With the advancements of cheap 3D-printing Cluster 15: Enabling low key communication extreme/unexpected content stands out, no matter
set by higher authorities (e.g. parents or teachers) at and Micro-factories (Future Today Institute, 2020), A new visual language arises among Gen Z. By sending the creator.
a much younger age compared to their previous scalable personalization and on-demand manufacturing emojis, memes, selfies or photos of surroundings, a
generation. Examples are installing a geo-VPN to play opportunities only increase, as will the creative freedom social interaction with less pressure is allowed. This Underlying fundamental needs: Comfort, Stimulation
games at school, or secretly adding their fingerprints to of children. language is highly symbolic and community-dependent,
their parents phones (Protein Agency, 2020). which creates a sense of belonging if understood but

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6 FACTOR PROCESSING 7 FUTURE CONTEXT FRAMEWORK

In these screenshots the construction process of the An image of the future context can be created by
new future context is shown. reviewing the relationships between the clusters. A
The original Miro Board can be retrieved via this link: framework is created that shows the relationships
https://miro.com/app/board/o9J_khKIKxA=/ between these clusters along two dimensions;
Gen Z’s perception of authenticity, and the phygital
focus. Each dimension has two opposing forces,
that together make up a coordinate system with four
quadrants. These quadrants represent four different
world views of our future domain.

X-as: Phygital focus

In light of the pandemic, digitalisation has accelerated
beyond expectations in all aspects of our lives. And
even though some of the millennials are still catching
up with installing our virtual backgrounds on zoom; In 5
years-time to Gen Z, there is no such thing as a digital Y-axis: The perception of authenticity
and a physical world anymore. The two are merging into Self-expression of a fluid identity is at the core of Gen
Figure 1 Overview of all trends, developments, states Figure 2 Pre-selection of trend-factors one phygital experience. Z, with their digital self as an extension of their profile.
and principles gathered However, the way the world’s blend can be approached On the y-axis the opposing interpretations and values of
from two angles: mans’ quest for immersion on one authenticity are mapped out, showing the contradicting
hand, and the search for an enhanced world that is value of this generation.
more convenient and efficient on the other.

1. Man’s quest for immersion 1. Realness

On this end the phygital focus lies on immersing oneself Authenticity is when you show who you really (read:
in the virtual environment. Be it in fantasy games, real naturally) are, from the inside and outside. On this end
world copies or via remote working environments; people are looking for relatability, proximity and morality.
people are looking for ways to immerse themselves in In their search for the truth they’re accepting all that is
the virtual environment. In doing so they try to make all real, and rejecting all that is pretentious or unmoral.
technology more human.
2. Uniqueness
2. Enhanced physical world At this end of the spectrum people value uniqueness
People always strive for more efficient and convenient over realness. Technology such as filters and editing
Figure 3 Final selection of all factors based on Figure 4 Initial clustering of factors ways of handling things. This end of the dimension
originality and relevance apps are viewed as tools to make things more
combines factors around the 3D visualisation “individual” rather than “fake.” It’s embraced because it
technologies and sensors that enhance our physical can enhance their unique identity. In that sense also
world with a digital layer: connecting all things and ‘fake’ is embraced, they believe it entertains and gives a
places in our world through a 3D digital copy. different perspective.

The technologies are tools for men rather than an end-

goal, and are used to make processes, tasks and
experiences more efficient, accessible or even fun
(through visual overlays). It makes it possible for us to
enjoy the benefits of the digital space, in the physical
realm. And enables instant spatial gratification: relevant
content in relation to where they are, what they’re doing
anytime, anywhere.

Figure 5 Clusters are labeled with fundamental needs Figure 6 Axes construced based on common needs
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 Design direction people to be who they are not i.e. causing low self-
In conversation with the client, it is chosen to follow the esteem and other negative repercussion”
direction of the fourth quadrant, ‘Carefree controlled
expression’ for the following reasons: 3. Excitement: The client was most excited about
the idea of fluid dressing; where you can adjust your
1. Competitors: Within the domain of online appearance on the go, depending on your situation or
expression most factors (in quantity) are pointing audience.
toward the desire to stand out in an alternative reality
(see appendix x). This can partly be attributed to the “Imagine a black dress that can change its silhouette
lockdowns and their push toward virtual alternatives between night and day – You can also digital download
of physical experiences, making these trends and new prints for the dress so you can use one dress with
developments more salient at this point in time. It is different prints & silhouettes. Now what if we design
therefore easier to address, but also easier to detect shoes and accessories that can also change shape
by competition. A quick competitor analysis of possible and you can color match with your dress? We will be
current and expected competitors shows this same selling less physical assets and more digital colors“ –
trend (Figure on the right). Especially Luxury brands like TH innovation manager USA.
Louis Vuitton and Gucci, who’s products already have
strong links to escapism have a strong position in this In addition, there is still very little competition in that area.
area. The biggest threat currently is Snapchat with its beauty
“a $10 Louis Vuitton skin might be expensive in the filters. Even though Snapchat has years of experience
virtual world, but, if the digital purchase allows you to live with creating filters, they are mainly focused on bringing
vicariously in your favourite fashion designer’s clothes, fun content, or making faces beautiful. The company
$10 becomes an affordable luxury” does not have any skills in actually “designing products”.
In addition, PVH already has a good relationship with
Only a month ago (Christmas 2020) Tommy Hilfiger has Snapchat and a history of multiple collaborations. The
launched their autumn collection virtually in the social expertise of Snapchat in this field will therefore be more
game Animal crossing, actively pursuing this direction of an opportunity than a threat.
already themselves. Players are invited to ‘Tommy
Forest’ for a virtual party hosted by an avatar of Mr. Concluding; for this thesis it is decided to focus on the
Tommy Hilfiger. At the party, users can shop at an indoor fourth quadrant where the main consumer concern is
Tommy Hilfiger boutique, join winter activities, and plant worry-free controlled expression. In the next paragraph
trees. For each tree planted virtually, the brand plants a deep-dive of this future context is provide
one in real-life; connecting to the company’s vision.
This example shows only the beginning of a brands’
possibilities in virtual environments. However, as TH’s
marketing teams are already pursuing this direction,
the client was most interested in researching other
directions for this thesis.

2. Brand principles: One of Tommy Hilfiger’s core

brand principles is realness. As the brand seeks ways to
strengthen its narrative and communicate its principles
through all initiatives, the strategic design direction
should lie in either one of the top two quadrants;
supporting consumers that share this value of realness.
“it’s all about finding the right balance between projecting
“realness” and giving the freedom to consumers to
embrace some extent of “fakeness” as escapism/
entertainment. But I feel brands shouldn’t encourage

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8 WORKSHOPS

Future visioning workshop Time pacing workshop

First a future visioning workshop was organised with The goal of the workshop was to:
the digital innovation team. The goal of this workshop 1. Get a sense how fast PVH and Tommy
was to secure understanding over the future needs, Hilfiger generally innovate (within the digital stream),
commitment toward the vision and reduce the by analysing current time intervals.
natural resistance toward change. First the nuance 2. Map key moments and transitioning stages
and relative importance of underlying trends were on a timeline (e.g. quarterly market launches or
discussed. Then the consumer needs were discussed, planned launches of current projects)
and the employees were led through a step-by-step
generative workshop where multiple future visions Results:
were formulated on how ‘ideal futures’, and what Interval times
role Tommy Jeans could take on. The process and 1. Two incremental innovations of design value
outcomes of this workshop can be found in appendix enhancement : 6 months
X. 2. Two new user-centred products/service designs :
2-3 years
Key session insights: 3. Radically new value proposition designs: 3 years
- The team wants a connection to current digital
initiatives and core business. In a workshop with the expected development timeline
- There is a need to connect the physical product of the technology is mapped out on a timeline before the
to the digital innovations. workshop. This will be presented to give the participants
- The vision should proceed business a sense of feasibility over time. Critical opinions toward
optimisation and be bold and inspiring. these technology evolutions will be discussed.
Together we will create and project three strategic life
“In 5 year time, PVH will only produce physical products stages on a future timeline, based on the Strategic life
based on digital fashion sales demand cycles model of Simonse and Hultink (2017) shown in
figure X. Stages are:
- The future visions mainly related to the 1. Design value enhancement
projects the team was already working on and showed 1) User-centred value creation
improvement directions from aa business point of view. 2) Value proposition creation
This outcome was valuable for the team in a way that it The intermediate steps of the roadmap won’t yet present
aligned them on their current direction. However, for this final concepts, but focus on the value proposition
project we try to identify new directions. Finally, it was Tommy Hilfiger will deliver in each stage, building up to
decided that a bolder future vision could be taken for the final future vision in 5 years.
this thesis, that pushes the boundaries of what digital
fashion could mean for the end consumer.

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