HEALING PARVO PUPPIES

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Friday, April 22, 2011

These healing parvo webpages are the beginning of numerous pages to come, in my
"spare" time (yeah right!). We are not veterinarian's, but we have worked with many parvo
puppies. Many have asked for us to put together helpful ideas, thoughts, and experience in
healing parvo puppies. As such, this is the beginning of our parvo puppy information. Please
check back for updates that are sure to come in the future.

Parvo is a disease of puppies. In the past 9 years, dealing with over 20,000 parvo puppies,
ALL have been 15 months of age or younger, EXCEPT 2 that I am aware of. One was 6 years old
and did not have a definitive parvo diagnosis from a vet, so it is possible this one may have had
coccidia, campylobacter, or something else.

We have personally helped 46 out of 47 parvo puppies heal themselves with natural remedies,
mainly Parvaid and Colloidal Silver (actually, NOT Colloidal Silver, but Electrically Isolated Silver).
We just had the pleasure of helping a 4 lb. Chihuahua named Zoey recover from parvo. She went
home with her family after being with us for 48 hours happy, healthy, and parvo free. :-) Via phone,
we work with many more parvo puppy owners and veterinarians 365 days a year.

Topics covered on our Healing Parvo Puppies at Home Page 1 are:

 Temperature
 Hydration
 Hydration Methods
 Antibiotics
 Vomiting
 Diarrhea
 Lethargy
 Home Treatment
 Enemas - Oh My!
 What Should I Feed My Puppy
 Treating a Litter of Parvo Puppies?
 How did my puppy get parvo?
 Is it REALLY Parvo?

Our Healing Parvo Puppies at Home Page 2 has the following parvo topics:

 Will my puppy get parvo again?

 What about Parvoguard?
 What about Tamiflu?
 Preventative Treatment for Parvo
 Think GOOD Thoughts
 After Recovery
 Will My Veterinarian Administer Parvaid?
 Disinfecting
 Why does Parvaid work?
 Parvo Stress
  Parvo Consultations

THE SIMPLE BASICS ARE IMPORTANT

1. TEMPERATURE - I'm a "Temp-a-holic", so I always monitor a parvo puppy's temperature.

Holistic norm is 100.5 to 101.5, anything other than this is either a low or high grade fever.
We use those nice digital thermometers. We ALWAYS tell parvo puppies WHY we are
taking their temperature. If someone was putting a thermometer in my rectum, I'd want to
know WHY! A sick puppy's temperature tells us many things:

1. High grade fever tells us a pup could dehydrate more quickly, as they are overheating,
so they may need extra fluids. A fever can also tell us there is a secondary infection going
on for which we may choose to either be a little heavier handed with the antibiotic we are
using or for those using homeopathic remedies, the high grade fever helps guide us to the
appropriate remedy.

2. A low grade fever tells us the puppy is chilled. When we are "chilled", we put on a
sweater, jacket, or cover up with a warm blanket. The same courtesy should be extended
to our puppy family members who have low grade fevers. No need to sit them on the
furnace, but a light blanket helps them to keep their body heat in check, which can help
them feel better and conserve their much needed energy for healing, instead of heating. A
low grade fever also tells us that any fluids we give the puppy should be warmed to body
temperature, as giving cold fluids would bring down the puppy's body temperature further.

NEVER feed solid food to a puppy with a fever, as this can prevent recovery and/or make
them worse. The old saying, "Feed a cold, starve a fever" applies here.

2. HYDRATION - Well hydrated puppies have dark pink gums, well, in those breeds that have
pink gums to begin with. Very light pink, white, or grayish gums means one of two things -
either the puppy has excessive worms or they are dehydrated. You can also pinch their
skin to test hydration. Pinch the skin on your forearm and it immediately goes back into
place meaning YOU are NOT dehydrated. Pinch the puppies skin, if it goes back into place
immediately, this indicates they are hydrated. If their skin sticks and takes a second or two
to go back into place, they are dehydrated. When checking puppy hydration, we use both
the gum and pinch the skin method for added assurance.

Hydration is important. You can lose a parvo puppy to dehydration or secondary infection,
PRIOR to losing them of parvo. This is why parvo puppies are put on IV's at the vet office,
to prevent dehydration. Dehydration causes the organs to work harder and the body can
shut down quickly, resulting in death.

3. HYDRATION METHODS - There are 5 hydration methods that I have heard about. They are:
IV's (Intravenous fluids); Subcue fluids injected under the skin; Oral fluids; Enema fluids;
and placing the dehydrated being in body temp water. This last mentioned method is not
something I would recommend, but I have heard of people doing this with parvo puppies.

IV's and Subcue fluids are hydration methods that a vet or a person trained in these
methods can do easily. We recommend IV's or oral/enema dosing, as we are hearing that
Sub Q fluids are not releasing fluids back into the system fast enough, when a puppy is
continuing to vomit or have diarrhea, so they can still dehydrate. Personally, we have
always used the oral and enema methods to keep parvo puppies hydrated. If a parvo
puppy continues to vomit oral fluids, we generally use the enema method to help get them
them hydrated again, until they can keep fluids down orally. Using Parvaid, Pedialyte, and
sometimes Colloidal Silver (aka Electrically Isolated Silver), per the Parvaid insert
 instructions we have found enema fluids are completely retained in puppies who are
dehydrated.

4. ANTIBIOTICS - It is recommended to use an antibiotic in conjunction with Parvaid, to

prevent secondary infection. Parvo can eat through arteries, therefore, Parvo can create a
secondary infection. As noted above, a parvo puppy can die of dehydration OR secondary
infection PRIOR to dying of parvo, so a good antibiotic is very important.

Please note, we highly recommend using Vibactra Plus or Colloidal Silver in conjunction
with Parvaid when treating parvo. #1 because Vibactra Plus and Colloidal Silver are known
to kill viruses, which NO traditional antibiotic can do and #2 because too frequently,
puppies are being diagnosed with parvo when they either don't have it or they have BOTH
parvo and coccidia. Vibactra Plus or Colloidal Silver kill microscopic single celled
organisms/parasites, such as coccidia protozoan (they do not kill "worms" like
roundworms, tapeworms, etc.). Instances where a puppy is treated for "parvo" and their
puppy really had "coccidia", puppies die, whether treated on vet IV's or at home.
Therefore, using Vibactra Plus or Colloidal Silver helps heal puppies or dogs whether they
have parvo, coccidia, giardia, etc. So ALL parvo like dis-eases are covered.

5. VOMITING - Parvo puppy vomiting can occur for numerous reasons. Make sure you read
the following to make sure your puppy isn't vomiting for a reason that you can prevent.

1. MOTION SICKNESS ~ Movement can trigger vomiting. Whether a car ride, picking your
puppy up and moving her to another location, or just from the puppy getting up to urinate
or drink. When WE have the flu, our tummy is queasy, and movement can trigger
headaches, dizziness, and vomiting for US, just as it can for parvo puppies.

2. DEHYDRATION ~ Being dehydrated can trigger vomiting. Dehydration is likely the single
biggest reason puppies are vomiting.

3. EXCITEMENT ~ If you go to visit your parvo puppy while she is at the vet's on IV's, the
excitement of seeing you can sometimes trigger vomiting. The same as seeing you walk in
the door after being home without you can trigger vomiting. It may also be the
combination of getting up from a laying position (which they were laying low because
movement can make them vomit) and being so excited to see you that they momentarily
"forgot" they were sick.

4. EXCESSIVE FLUIDS ~ Often, parvo puppies quit consuming water on their own, so when
they start drinking water, WE get excited they are drinking. Our excitement is short lived,
after our little parvo puppy gulps down a cup of water, only to vomit it up seconds later, in
a massive mess all over the floor...We recommend keeping only 5 or 6 licks worth of water
or plain flavored pedialyte in a bowl on the floor for the puppy to consume. As soon as
they drink this water, we wait 10 minutes and then replace the empty bowl with more water
or pedialyte, tho just enough for 5 or 6 licks. NOT so much that they weigh down their little
tummies and heave it back all over the floor. Here again, remember, parvo virus is like a
really terrible human flu. When we have the flu, if we drank an 8 oz. glass of water, we'd be
vomiting too. Small amounts of fluids, frequently. You can give the puppy ice chips to lick
also.

5. EXCESSIVE ORAL DOSING ~ If you are dosing your parvo puppy yourself with Parvaid
and your puppy continues to vomit after 2 or 3 hourly doses, you can make the doses
smaller and give half the hourly dose, every half hour. Hourly doses can even be broken
down into quarters by giving 1/4 the hourly dose every 15 minutes. Make sure the puppy
isn't dehydrated though, as vomiting can be indicative of dehydration. If the puppy isn't on
 IV's or Subcue fluids and the oral doses continue to make the puppy vomit, "I" would give
an enema instead. Enema fluids are completely maintained by dehydrated parvo puppies.

6. EXCESSIVE WORM LOADS ~ Excessive worm loads can cause a puppy to vomit. If
worms are present in your puppy's vomit or stool, contact your veterinarian or call us for a
parasite tea recipe or give Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth orally and via enema daily.

Excessive worms (roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, or tapeworms) can prevent the

recovery of a parvo puppy. Excessive worm loads can kill puppies. Worm overload
symptoms are very similar to parvo and it is becoming increasingly common for parvo
puppies to have worm overloads.

We do not recommend worming with chemical wormers when a puppy has parvo as the
poison can kill the worms and the puppy. Since parvo sheds the intestinal lining, giving a
chemical wormer will be more readily absorbed into the puppy's body, plus killing the
worms creates dead, bloated worms that release toxins: bacteria, viruses, ammonia, etc.
that can and often do, kill puppies when they have parvo as well.

We do not recommend stopping the vomiting in puppies who have excessive worm loads.
IF they are going to vomit worms, we WANT them to. I want those worms OUT of the body
whether through vomit or feces. Keeping the parasites in the body with drugs that are
supposed to stop vomiting can keep a puppy sick and/or even cause death.

Many puppy breeders start worming puppies at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age and their
puppies are getting sick at 9 weeks of age or shortly thereafter. Most of these breeders
rotate their choice of wormers, using Safeguard, Ivomec, Pyrantel, Panacur, Nemex, and
others. Often, their puppies still have excessive worm loads. Read more information about
parvo and traditional wormers HERE. Realize, that if your parvo puppy has been wormed
on numerous occassions prior to coming down with parvo and they are NOT having 4 to 5
bowel movements a day, 9 times out of 10, they have excessive worm loads which need to
be addressed or the worms can prevent their recovery from parvo. We do NOT recommend
worming these puppies with traditional chemical wormers!

In some cases, these overly chemicalized/wormed puppies' intestines swell shut, meaning
just a few drops of oral fluid make them instantly vomit and NO bowel movements occur.
We have found it essential to reduce the inflammation so bowel movements can resume
and oral doses can once again be administered without instant vomiting. It is easiest to
accomplish this with enemas and natural remedies.

7. DEHYDRATION CAN KILL YOUR PUPPY ~ A lack of bodily fluid can cause a parvo
puppy's heart, kidneys, liver, lungs, etc. to have to work harder. Eventually these organs
give out and they can die quickly from dehydration, so preventing dehydration is very very
important!

6. DIARRHEA ~ Parvo puppies generally have a dark bloody diarrhea, tho we have seen
some with a bright red bloody diarrhea and there is the F-Strain where there is no blood,
but a mucousy diarrhea, often a yellowish tan color. Regardless of whether a parvo puppy
has dark bloody diarrhea, bright red bloody diarrhea, or the F-Strain mucousy diarrhea, we
have seen all types heal with Parvaid and a natural antibiotic. There have been some parvo
puppies who just have spots of blood in their diarrhea and others who have a total mass
of complete dark or bright red diarrhea.

1. Diarrhea can cause dehydration, due to the loss of fluids. IF we are personally dealing
with a parvo puppy who has a massive amount of fluid loss through diarrhea, we often
 make it a point to given them oral or enema fluids shortly thereafter, within 15 minutes or
so, to replace the fluid loss, rather than waiting for their next scheduled hourly dose, to
help prevent dehydration.

2. Many people want to stop the diarrhea with kaopectate or similar over the counter
remedies or drugs. In the holistic world, it is said that diarrhea is the body's way of trying
to rid itself of something that is making it sick, so stopping the diarrhea isn't necessarily a
good thing. And infact, it can actually make a puppy worse, by not allowing its body to get
rid of what is making it ill quickly.

3. One of parvo's most tell tale signs is "constant" bowel movements. Parvo puppies have
bowel movements at least 4+ times/day. Even though a parvo puppy is not eating and may
not have eaten for a few days, the lining of their intestines is shedding, which is what
creates the constant bowel movements.

4. IF a parvo puppy is NOT having bowel movements, 9 times out of 10, the reason is
because they are infested with worms. Go to our section on Worming, above to read about
handling excessive worm loads in parvo puppies.

7. LETHARGY ~ Parvo puppies do not feel well, hence, they are lethargic. Just as we are
lethargic when we have the flu. We believe it is important to give them lots of tlc, time,
attention, and be at their beckon call, just as we would want someone to be there for us if
we were so sick. We also believe, it is important for them to be able to recover in a
household that is conducive of getting better. Not saying we want them glued to a hospital
bed, but that excessive noise and play with other family members is best kept to a
minimum, to help allow them to heal.
8. HOME PARVO TREATMENT ~ Due to the fact that we did not have $4800-$7200.00 cash to
treat our own 5 parvo puppies in early 2001, we did the home treatment route with Parvaid
and Colloidal Silver (CS). This experience enlightened us greatly to home treatment, as
have the other 42 parvo puppies people have brought us to help heal them with Parvaid
and CS. The following are important guidelines for those desiring to treat their own parvo
puppies at home:

1. Some parvo puppies are relatively easy to heal and within the first few doses of Parvaid
they are starting to consume fluids on their own, quit vomiting, and within 12-24 hours
they are eating. This is NOT always the case with all puppies. If you are thinking of treating
your parvo puppy at home, keep in mind that the worst puppies we have worked with
required every hour on the hour oral or enema dosing for 24-48 hours straight. Meaning,
you might need some assistance, so you can get some sleep. IF you are using IV's, dosing
can be easier, but you "should" dose the oral drops of Parvaid every hour on the hour
until the puppy is consuming fluids and beginning to eat. "Some" people have thought
they could just dose the Parvaid in their parvo puppy's waterer, but if a parvo puppy isn't
consuming fluids on it's own, it surely won't be getting the Parvaid every hour on the hour.

2. Some people take their parvo puppy to the vet and leave them on IV fluids while they go
to their jobs during the day and pick their parvo puppy up in the evening and treat with
Parvaid throughout the night time hours. Others take their sick puppy to the vet and have
the vet administer subcue fluids and then take them home and administer the hourly oral
doses of Parvaid.

3. If you are treating a parvo puppy(ies) at home, we recommend keeping a record of

everything you do and every thing the puppy does. Kind of like a doctor's chart. Every oral
dose you give, every temperature you take, every antibiotic dose, every time the puppy
has diarrhea, along with what color it was, every time the puppy vomits, etc. This helps
 YOU to remember when you gave the last dose, plus it is useful if someone else helps to
care for the puppy while you get a 2 hour cat nap. They can see how the puppy has been
doing, as well as read what doses you have been giving.

4. Healing them at home can be a lot of work, but the blessing is when they heal and YOU
can get some sleep. Well, when they've healed you still might not get much sleep as then
they are running around, barking, licking, eating, getting into puppy trouble and wanting
YOU to play with them! You have a best friend for life!

9. ENEMAS...OH MY! ~ Enemas are not as bad as many people think they are or will be.
Enemas are an excellent way of preventing puppies from dehydrating, especially if they
are not keeping fluids down orally. If a puppy is not dehydrated, the enema fluids will
come back out, but when they are dehydrating (do the gum and skin test above), their
bodies maintain all the enema fluids given. IF a parvo puppy expels the enema fluids
within seconds of giving an enema, its intestines may have tortioned (twisted). IF this
occurs, you should get your puppy to a vet immediately.

You can give an enema with a fleet enema bag, an infant enema bag, a bulb syringe, or a
standard clear syringe, like the one you may be using for oral doses. We prefer using clear
syringes, as it's easy to see how much fluid is in them and it's easy to see how clean they
are after washing. ALWAYS make sure to clearly mark an enema syringe with a good
permanent marker and NEVER use an enema syringe even after it's been thoroughly
washed to give an oral dose, as you can reinfect a puppy with parvo.

Please note, there are 2 kinds of syringes. One is made to screw a needle into, which does
NOT make a good syringe for giving enema doses. If using a syringe for giving enemas,
make sure the tip is nice and clean, without that flowery thing typical needle syringes
have. Here's a photo of a good syringe to use for enemas.

Lubricate the end of your enema applicator with KY jelly, vitamin E, or similar. Make sure
the puppy's spine is straight, as you cannot give an enema to a puppy that's curled up.
We've found some parvo pup's have even lifted their legs while getting their enema (NOTE:
MOST do not do this). Those who have, apparently realized the benefit the enema was
giving them and they recovered the quickest.

Administer the enema fluids VERY slowly. We pet the puppy and tell them why we are
giving them an enema...to help them get better so they can be happy, healthy, eat, and
play. Giving 5 cc's of enema fluids may take you 2 to 3 minutes to give. Again, do it slowly.

IF your parvo puppy has a low grade fever, we recommend heating the fluids to body
temperature, so their cute little furry bodies do not have to work hard at bringing the
enema fluids to their body temperature. They need to be working on healing from parvo
and should not be having to waste their energy bringing their body temp back up after
getting a room temp - 70 degree cold enema. It may help make their recovery easier and
quicker.

If giving an enema still sounds gross, please know that there have been one or two
Parvaid customers the past 4 years who, despite our repeated informing of the importance
of enemas, along with the written Parvaid instructions, did NOT give the enemas and both
these puppies died. When it comes to life or death choices, if you aren't giving IV fluids, or
if your puppy isn't keeping down the oral doses, give the enema(s) - PERIOD. They really
aren't gross (and even if they were, SO WHAT) and could make the difference of whether
or not your puppy lives or dies.
 Just note, it can take 10 to 15 minutes to give a 45 lb. parvo puppy 4 tbsps. (60 cc's) of
enema fluids. If you are giving the enema via syringe and the fluid starts to come back out,
stop for a few seconds, pet your puppy so it can relax, and then slowly administer more of
the enema fluid. So again, give very slowly.

Please also note, the purpose of an enema is to hydrate a puppy so that they will be better
able to hold down oral fluids. We do not recommend giving enemas 24 hours straight or in
lieu of oral dosing. Enemas are needed if a puppy is vomiting excessively, but the goal is
to get them hydrated enough so that they can keep their oral fluids down.

10. WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY PUPPY? ~ When a parvo puppy starts to feel better, it is best
NOT to give them kibble. Their tummies are raw and kibble would be too hard to digest.
When they are ready to start eating, we usually make up an "appetizer" plate. Giving the
recovering puppy a choice of things to eat such as a little plain yogurt, scrambled eggs,
small amounts of raw or cooked liver (excessive amounts of liver can cause diarrhea due
to the vitamin A content, so don't feed too much - liver is also excellent to combat anemia
from blood loss as it contains lots of iron), cooked chicken and rice, raw or cooked ground
beef or turkey, small amounts of low fat cottage cheese, chicken gizzards, heart, chicken
necks, etc. As they start eating, it is best to give them numerous small meals throughout
the day, versus one or two large ones to help them recooperate more quickly and prevent
overloading their tummies.

We have ALWAYS given raw chicken liver (you can also make liver treats by boiling raw
liver for a few minutes until it is cooked enough to cut, then cut the liver into bite sized
chunks and put on a baking sheet in the oven at a low temp till dry - these will keep in the
frig for 2 weeks) and New Zealand Colostrum, along with raw soft foods.

Do NOT force feed a puppy solid food, as this can make them regress.

IF your puppy hasn't eaten for 3-4 days, we usually syringe a small amount of raw egg (no
more than 1/5th their oral dose of pedialyte and Parvaid), New Zealand Colostrum, or
yogurt into them. We personally have found 100% New Zealand Colostrum excellent for
soothing parvo puppy digestive tracts and help boost their immune systems. They don't
need as much as their normal hourly dose of Parvaid and Pedialyte, but just enough to
give them some protein. These things are easily digested. A long story made us start
doing this, but suffice it to say, we were helping 4 rescue parvo puppies heal from the F-
Strain. Three of their siblings were on IV's at 2 different vet offices. They had the F-Strain,
where they relapse. Two of the pups on vet IV's died after a week on IV's. One of these
puppies recovered from the parvo the first time, relapsed, and recovered again for the 2nd
time, only to die of a protein deficiency in the vet hospital! :o{ As such, when pups have
gone for 4-5 days without eating, we syringe a little protein into them. Raw liver juice
enemas are also helpful for this and cleanse the liver as well when puppies aren't eating
on their own yet.

11. HOW DID MY PUPPY GET PARVO? ~ There are many ways a puppy can get parvo. Here
are a few examples:

1. If you, your family, or friends come in contact with an infected animal without
disinfecting yourself before playing with your puppy, you can give parvo or other dis-
eases to your puppy. This can happen at pet shows, pet stores, obedience classes,
shopping malls, etc.

2. If your puppy comes in contact with excretions from an infected dog, he or she can
come down with parvo.
3. They say parvo is NOT airborne, but as far as I am concerned, it is. Consider the fact
that a fly or bird can come in contact with an infected puppy's vomit or feces and carry the
virus to your home makes ME think it IS airborne!

4. Stress can cause parvo or any other dis-ease to manifest. Many dogs and puppies that
are purchased from animal shelters or brought into rescues come down with parvo. Likely,
due to the following: a) The puppy was unwanted by its owner and dumped at the shelter
or found living on the street. b) The puppy was subjected to all the animals at the shelter
(along with any dis-eases they may have had) and many strange humans. c) The puppy's
diet was likely different than what it was used to. d) The puppy was likely vaccinated with a
5, 6, or 7-in-1 vaccine, plus possibly rabies. e) The puppy was possibly chemically wormed
as well. f) The puppy was then adopted to a new home with another change in his or her
environment, people, possibly other pets, diet, etc. to get used to. ALL of these things can
create stress on the immune system of little puppies. Just think of how stressful it is for
you to move to a new home and you at least have a choice of where you are moving to!

5. It "used" to be that half of our parvo puppy customers had vaccinated their puppies
within 3-14 days of a puppy coming down with parvo and the other half had not vaccinated
recently. As of this writing, April 20, 2005, in the past 2 months, EVERY single parvo puppy
customer who has called had just vaccinated their puppy(ies) within 3-14 days of the
puppy coming down with parvo. This accounts for over 70 puppies coming down with
parvo immediately post vaccinations. IF you choose to vaccinate, I strongly suggest
looking into Dr. Jean Dodd's Vaccine Protocol (see below under vaccinations) or view
some information on our http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/animal_vaccines.html - Animal
Vaccines page.

6. Parvo Update: As of today, August 3, 2005, we are seeing less of the "just vaccinated"
parvo puppies and A LOT of puppies testing positive for parvo that have heavy worm
loads. Some with hook and whipworm infestations, others just rounds or tapes. Not sure if
it has to do with the unusual weather we've been having in the U.S. (hurricanes, rainy,
overly hot temps, etc.) or what. I only know that an overburden of worms can cause dis-
ease and even death. IF your puppy has not been wormed or you suspect they have an
overload of worms, consult with your veterinarian. Excessive worm loads can prevent
recovery from parvo and they can also cause dis-ease. Chemically worming when a puppy
is extremely ill with parvo can kill the worms and the puppy, so use caution.

7. Parvo Update: As of November 2005, we are again seeing majority of the "just
vaccinated" parvo puppies OR just vaccinated and chemically wormed puppies OR just
chemically wormed puppies coming down with parvo virus.

8. Parvo April 2006 Update: The past 6 months or so, our parvo puppy calls are as follows:

50% were just vaccinated with a 5-6-7-8 in one vaccine, 3 to 14 days prior to coming down
with parvo.
20% were just vaccinated with a 5-6-7-8 in one vaccine AND chemically wormed, 3 to 14
days prior to coming down with parvo.
15% were just chemically wormed within 3 to 14 days of the puppy coming down with
parvo.
This leaves 15% of our parvo puppy calls that were not recently vaccinated or chemically
wormed.

9. Parvo vaccines are modified live (MLV). Meaning, you are giving a tiny amount of the
live parvo virus when vaccinating. As such, the parvo virus is shed from the body for
approximately 2 weeks post vaccination. If you or your puppy come in contact with the
 feces of a recently vaccinated dog, it is possible your puppy can come down with parvo.
This does not usually happen, but it can.

10. Chemical worming can also lower a puppy or adult dog's immune system causing
them to come down with parvo. We suggest you NEVER chemically worm on an overly hot
or cold day. Extremes in temperature are stressful for us just as they are for our animal
companions. NEVER chemically worm a puppy who is not well, unless excessive worm
load is the cause of the puppy's ill health. In this case, I recommend being very careful and
strive to boost the puppy's immune system with excellent nutrition, clean fresh water,
possible supplements - kelp, vitamin C, echinacea, colostrum or others. Best yet, it would
be MY opinion (and remember I am NOT a vet) that you should NEVER chemically worm at
all. Would YOU take the chemical wormer you give your puppy?? If NOT, WHY would you
give it to your beloved puppy? There are plenty of natural worming methods that can be
utilized that are safe and effective. For instance, simple raw grated carrots are excellent at
removing round worms from the system. The raw grated carrots simply wrap around the
round worms and carry them out of the system, plus they provide a good source of
vitamin A, and are not toxic to pets.

11. We are seeing puppies whose intestines appear to inflame to the point of being
completely closed - meaning no fluid goes/stays in their bodies and no bowel movements.
This requires additional natural treatment methods to reduce the inflammation. If your
puppy cannot tolerate one drop of fluid on it's tongue without instantly vomiting, please
call us.

We have over 100 wonderful animal guardians here for over 10 years and have never
chemically wormed them or ourselves. Natural worming remedies - herbs, homeopathy,
food grade diatomaceous earth, etc. are very effective at eliminating parasites without
putting chemicals or toxins into "OUR" or our animals systems.

When you start worming a pet with natural methods, it is best to continue treatment daily
for at least a 4 weeks, in order to catch all the hatching eggs. We do NOT recommend you
start worming one day with a natural remedy, then quit for a few days as this can produce
a build up of worms in the system.

12. IS IT REALLY PARVO? ~ There are many dis-eases that can mimic parvo. Some of these
diseases are viral, some bacterial, others are worms or protozoan. Here is a partial listing
of dis-eases that mimic parvovirus:

1. Campylobacter aka "Campy" or Campylobacteriosis Jejuni Parvo or is it

Campylobacter?
2. Coccidiosis aka "Cocci" or Coccidia (single celled organism - protozoa)
3. Coronavirus
4. Distemper aka Hardpad Disease (exhibits upper respiratory symptoms)
5. Giardiasis aka Giardia (single celled organism - protozoa (trophozoites))
6. Food Poisoning (i.e., salmonella)
7. Poisoning (non-food; i.e., antifreeze, drugs - i.e., wormers)
8. Intestinal Blockage (i.e. from consuming foreign objects)
9. Worm Infestation (roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, tapeworms)
10. Dysbiosis (aka Leaky Gut Syndrome)
11. Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS), Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD), Colitis
12. Ebola virus
13. Dog Show Crud (Bacterial Overgrowth)
14. Leptospirosis (Bacterial infection)
15. Infectious canine hepatitis (virus)
16. Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (HGE)
 17. Heliobacter Infection (Bacteria)
18. Addison's disease (Hypoadrenocorticism)
19. Pet food poisoning - check this current list of over 95 recalled dog foods, effective
March 16, 2007 http://www.menufoods.com/recall/ Many dogs and cats have died from
these foods that are causing kidney failure and liver failure with vomiting, diarrhea, loss of
appetite, lethargy, and dehydration (all parvo type symptoms). If you think your puppy is
reacting to one of these recalled foods or the many other foods that are causing health
issues/death in pets, go to our Pet Food Recall/Poisoning Webpage.

MANY parvo like dis-eases will test positive for parvo, such as: Campylobacter and
Salmonella. AND, IF a puppy was just vaccinated for parvo, it will test positive for parvo
for at least 2 weeks post vaccination, even if it doesn't have parvo.

Being vaccinated can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and/or lethargy in some puppies for 1 or 2
days post vaccination. Traditional wormers can exhibit these symptoms immediately after
dosing as well. When we used to vaccinate for parvo, distemper, lymes, corona,
adenovirus, lepto, bordetella, etc., one of my canine companions would vomit and have
diarrhea for days after being vaccinated. She was still eating and running around, but just
being vaccinated caused her to have diarrhea and vomit for a few days after her
vaccinations. I didn't correlate it at the time, but now I know this was her way of saying she
was extremely sensitive to the vaccines.

13. VACCINATIONS ~ Every vaccine vial, human and animal, advises to NEVER vaccinate an
unhealthy being. It is best not to vaccinate when an animal or human is stressed, which
means not to do so on an overly hot or cold day, when having surgery, when dis-eased
(such as having parvo) or during times of stress. NEVER vaccinate when your pet is ill. We
do not recommend vaccinating at the same time you have your puppy spayed or neutered
either. We feel it is best to wait at least two weeks between having them vaccinated and
spayed or neutered.

It takes approximately 10-14 days from the time a pet is vaccinated for their immune
systems to mount a response to the vaccine. As such, for 10-14 days post vaccination, a
puppy literally has no immune system. This is why we do NOT recommend immediately
vaccinating littermates who have been exposed to a sibling with parvo. The fact that
puppies literally have NO immune systems for 10-14 days post vaccination is largely why
these puppies are the hardest to heal. As noted above, we strongly suggest you look into
Dr. Jean Dodd's Vaccine Protocol. Dr. Dodd's is an immunologist and founder of Hemopet
the world's largest blood bank for dogs.

NOTE:We have NEVER had a parvo puppy owner call who had vaccinated per Dr. Dodd's
vaccination protocol above which utilizes ONLY a single parvo and distemper vaccine,
separated by 2 weeks with another SINGLE parvo and distemper vaccine. ALL of the
recently vaccinated puppies that have come down with parvo are those who were just
vaccinated with 5, 6, or 7-in-1 vaccines.

Whether you choose to vaccinate or not, there are NO GUARANTEES your puppy will not
come down with a dis-ease. Vaccinated and unvaccinated alike come down with parvo. As
such, we believe it is of utmost importance to keep a puppy's immune system strong and
healthy with the best quality nutrition you can give them. There are links to dog and cat
nutrition information on our Animal Nutrition webpage. And more information on vaccines
at our Animal Vaccines webpage. As well as daily fresh water, plenty of sunshine,
exercise, love, tlc, proper training, etc.
How To Give Your Dog Home-Made Enema
Sometimes, you may need to do more than just giving solid or liquid medication to your sick
dog. Depending on his condition and symptoms, you may also have to provide other kinds of
nursing care, such as giving enemas. Below is an effective way to use this procedure:

The use of enemas can be beneficial for dogs that has the following conditions; constipation,
during fasting, dehydration, excessive vomiting, bowel irritation caused by bone fragments or the
presence of spoiled food or garbage in the digestive tract.

Before administering this procedure, make sure that you only use pure water that is warm but not
hot (test it on your wrist to make sure). Use about two tablespoons for a small dog and up to a
pint for a large dog. Add a few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice to the water and administer
the mixture with a plastic or rubber syringe for about 2 to 3 minutes. For large dogs, you can use
and enema bag and a nozzle.

Here is how to do it: You must lubricate the end of the syringe with vegetable oil. Have someone
help you hold the dog gently while he stands in a tub or on the ground. Insert the nozzle carefully
into the rectum. Using gentle and consistent pressure against the anus (to prevent the fluid from
leaking out), slowly fill the colon. If the solution does not flow in easily, pull back on the nozzle
or syringe and slightly adjust the angle. Expect a bowel movement to begin within a few
minutes. You may administer the enema once or twice a day for a couple of days.

In many cases, dogs that are dehydrated are simply retaining the fluid. This occurs when the
colon absorbs the fluid which the body needs. Therefore, enemas are an excellent way to
administer fluid therapy. Under these circumstances, administer the enema about every four
hours or until fluid is no longer retained.

If a dog is having difficulty keeping water in his stomach due to heavy vomiting, an enema can
help introduce the fluid and salts that are needed to replace those lost through vomiting. Using
the solution as described earlier, add a pinch of sea salt plus a pinch of potassium chloride. The
same solution can also be used to help a dog suffering from prolonged diarrhea. In this case,
administer the enema every four hours or until fluid is no longer retained.