Anti-Theft Alarm For Bikes: A Project Report On
Anti-Theft Alarm For Bikes: A Project Report On
Anti-Theft Alarm For Bikes: A Project Report On
Project Report
On
SESSION 2010-11
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1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The major working project being a part of examination needs a lot of efforts and concentration.
But still efforts in wrong direction never becomes fruitful. Thus an able guidance and support are
very must for any engineering student.
We consider our self to be lucky student who got a devotional support and guidance from our
faculty members because the project in its present form could not have been possible without the
help of these individuals who deserve the heart felt thanks for there support.
We are especially thankful to our project guide Mr. Rajesh Kumar Raj (Lecture, ECE) for his
valuable guidance and moral support without which, this project would never have been
successful.
Our sincere thanks to Mr. Harish Sharma (Lecture, ECE) who went out of way to provided us
every possible facility in carrying out the project smoothly and successfully.
We are very graceful to Mr. Dhirendra Mathur (HOD, ECE) for giving us the opportunity to
work on the project. He took personal interest in our project so that we could utilize our
potential.
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ENGINEERING COLLEGE, AJMER
(An Autonomous Institute Of Government Of Rajasthan)
CERTIFICATE
Submitted by
2. BHAVNESH PANCHAL(07EC23)
3 .KAVITA MEENA(07EC41)
4.KHUSHBU KHANDELWAL(07EC42)
Date:
3
Content sequence
1 INTRODUCTION
2 OVERVIEW
3 METHODOLOGY
4 COMPONENT LIST
5 COMPONENTS DESCRIPITION
5.1 IR RECEIVER
5.2 IR TRANSMITTER
5.3 VOLTAGE REGULATOR
5.4 ULN 2003
5.5 BASIC COMPONENT
6 PCB LAYOUT & DESIGNING
7 PROJECT WORKING
7.1 CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
8 ADVANTAGES AND PREVENTION
9 FUTURE SCOPE
10 CONCLUSION
11 BIBLIOGRAPHY
4
1.INTRODUCTION
5
2.OVERVIEW
If anybody tries to steal your bike, this circuit turns on the horn of the
bike to alert you of the impending theft.Usually, a handle lock is used on
the handle bar for the safety of bikes, with the front mudguard in a
slanted position.
When the handle lock is freed, the front mudguard can be aligned with
the body of the bike.This circuit consists of transmitter and receiver
sections. The transmitter (IRLED1) is fitted on the back end of the front
mudguard and the receiver sensor(IRX1) is fitted on the central portion of
the crash guard of the bike such that IR rays from the transmitter directly
fall on the sensor when the front mudguard comes in line with the body of
the bike.
3.METHODOLOGY
6
Methodology adopted for the project consists of the following
activities:
ACTIVITY 1: SURVEY
7
The objective of this activity is to search the components present in
the component list and other apparatus, which will be required during the
project. Once the components are arranged the apparatus required for
PCB manufacturing is arranged.
ACTIVITY 5: IMPLEMENTATION
8
The objective of this activity is to produce a manual, which may be used
as a guide for using or operating the system. In fact, there may be several
manuals catering to the needs of different types of person.
ACTIVITY 8: INSTALLATION
4.COMPONENT LIST
9
SR. COMPONENT NAME REMARK
NO
3. CAPACITOR 100µF,10µF
4. IR RECEIVER Reception of IR
rays.
5. IR TRANSMITTER Transmission of IR
rays.
7. TRANSISTOR BC547
5. COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
10
1.IR RECEIVER
FEATURE:- APPLICATION:-
2.IR TRANSMITTER
11
Most remote controls for electronic appliances use a near infrared diode
to emit a beam of light that reaches the device. A 940 nm wavelength
LED is typical. This infrared light is invisible to the human eye, but
picked up by sensors on the receiving device. Video cameras see the
diode as if it produces visible purple light.
Since infrared (IR) remote controls use light, they require line of sight to
operate the destination device. The signal can, however, be reflected by
mirrors, just like any other light source.
12
phototransistor. However, it’s easy to increase the operating angle using a
matte transparent object in front of the receiver. A description can be
LED TRANSMITTER
1 as input terminal,
3 as output terminal.
13
When the output voltage tends to increase above 5 volts, the
current sensing element detects the changes and the current controller
circuit decreases the current in the input circuit. Due to these actions,
the result is that the net current in the input circuitry maintains its
constant dc character and hence, a constant dc current flows through
the fixed load and hence giving constant 5 volt output voltage;
irrespective of the fluctuations in the input voltage.
4.ULN 2003
DESCRIPTION
14
The ULN2001A, ULN2002A, ULN2003 and ULN2004A are high
voltage, high current darlington arrays each containing seven open
collector darlingtonpairs with common emitters. Each channel rated at
500mA and can withstand peak currents of 600mA. Suppression diodes
are included for inductive load driving and the inputs are pinned opposite
the outputs to simplify board layout.
These versatile devices are useful for driving a wide range of loads
including solenoids, relays DC motors, LED displays filament lamps,
thermal print heads and high power buffers. The
ULN2001A/2002A/2003A and 2004A are supplied in 16 pin plastic DIP
packages with a copper
Lead frame to reduce thermal resistance. They are available also in small
outline package (SO-16) as ULN2001D/2002D/2003D/2004D.
15
5.BASIC COMPONENTS
Resistors
16
have very low resistance. That is why wires are made of metal. They
allow current to flow from one point to another point without any
resistance. Wires are usually covered with rubber or plastic. This keeps
the wires from coming in contact with other wires and creating short
circuits. High voltage power lines are covered with thick layers of plastic
to make them safe, but they become very dangerous when the line breaks
and the wire is exposed and is no longer separated from other things by
insulation.
Resistance is given in units of ohms. (Ohms are named after Mho Ohms
who played with electricity as a young boy in Germany.) Common
resistor values are from 100 ohms to 100,000 ohms. Each resistor is
marked with colored stripes to indicate its resistance.
Variable Resistors
Capacitors
17
Now suppose you want to control how the current in your circuit changes
(or not changes) over time. Now why would you? Well radio signals
require very fast current changes. Robot motors cause current fluctuations
in your circuit which you need to control. What do you do when batteries
cannot supply current as fast as you circuit drains them? How do you
prevent sudden current spikes that could fry your robot circuitry? The
solution to this is capacitors.
Capacitors are like electron storage banks. If your circuit is running low,
it will deliver electrons to your circuit.
In our water analogy, think of this as a water tank with water always
flowing in, but with drainage valves opening and closing.
Since capacitors take time to charge, and time to discharge, they can also
be used for timing circuits. Timing circuits can be used to generate
signals such as PWM or be used to turn on/off motors in solar powered
BEAM robots.
Quick note, some capacitors are polarized, meaning current can only
flow one direction through them. If a capacitor has a lead that is longer
than the other, assume the longer lead must always connect to positive.
The problem with using robot components that drain a large amount of
power is sometimes your battery cannot handle the high drain rate,
Motors and servos being perfect examples. This would cause a system
wide voltage drop, often resetting your microcontroller, or at least
causing it to not work properly. Just a side note, it is bad to use the same
power source for both your circuit and your motors. So don't do it.
Or suppose your robot motors are not operating at its full potential
because the battery cannot supply enough current, the capacitor will make
up for it. The solution is to place a large electrolytic capacitor between
the source and ground of your power source. Get a capacitor that is rated
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at least twice the voltage you expect to go through it. Have it rated at
1mF-10mF for every amp required. For example, if your 20V motors
will use 3 amps, use a 3mF-30mF 50V rated capacitor. Exactly how much
will depend on how often you expect your motor to change speed and
direction, as well as momentum of what you are actuating. Just note that
if your capacitor is too large, it may take a long time to charge up when
you first turn your robot on. If it is too small, it will drain of electrons and
your circuit will be left with a deficit. It is also bad to allow a large
capacitor to remain fully charged when you turn off your robot. Some
things could accidentally short and fry. So use a simple power on LED in
your motor circuit to drain the capacitor after your robot is turned off. If
your capacitor is not rated properly for voltage, then can explode with
smoke. Fortunately they do not overheat if given excessive amounts of
current. So just make sure your capacitor is rated higher than your highest
expected.
Diodes
Diodes are components that allow current to flow in only one direction.
They have a positive side (leg) and a negative side. When the voltage on
the positive leg is higher than on the negative leg then current flows
through the diode (the resistance is very low). When the voltage is lower
on the positive leg than on the negative leg then the current does not flow
(the resistance is very high). The negative leg of a diode is the one with
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the line closest to it. It is called the cathode. The positive end is called the
anode.
Switches
When the switch is ON it looks and acts like a wire. When the switch is
OFF there is no connection.
The LED
An LED is the device shown above. Besides red, they can also be yellow,
green and blue. The letters LED stand for Light Emitting Diode.
The Transistor
20
The transistor has three legs, the Collector (C), Base (B), and Emitter (E).
Sometimes they are labeled on the flat side of the transistor. Transistors
always have one round side and one flat side. If the round side is facing
you, the Collector leg is on the left, the Base leg is in the middle, and the
Emitter leg is on the right.
Transistor Symbol
Basic Circuit
The Base (B) is the On/Off switch for the transistor. If a current is
flowing to the Base, there will be a path from the Collector (C) to the
Emitter (E) where current can flow (The Switch is On.) If there is no
current flowing to the Base, then no current can flow from the Collector
to the Emitter. (The Switch is off.)
Below is the basic circuit we will use for all of our transistors.
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Relays
All relays contain a sensing unit, the electric coil, which is powered by
AC or DC current. When the applied current or voltage exceeds a
threshold value, the coil activates the armature, which operates either to
close the open contacts or to open the closed contacts. When a power is
supplied to the coil, it generates a magnetic force that actuates the switch
mechanism. The magnetic force is, in effect, relaying the action from one
circuit to another. The first circuit is called the control circuit; the second
is called the load circuit. A relay is usually an electromechanical device
that is actuated by an electrical current.
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Types of Relays
1. Electromechanical Relay
2. Solid State Relay.
1. Electromechanical Relays
Power Relay: The power relay is capable of handling larger power loads
– 10-50 amperes or more.
Time-Delay Relay: The contacts might not open or close until some time
interval after the coil has been energized. This is called delay-on-operate.
Delay-on-release means that the contacts will remain in their actuated
position until some interval after the power has been removed from the
coil.
On the load side of this space, a part of the device senses the presence of
the light, and triggers a solid state switch that either opens or closes the
circuit under control.
Often, solid state relays are used where the circuit under control must be
protected from the introduction of electrical noises.
The drawback to using a solid state relay is that it can only accomplish
single pole switching.
6.PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD LAYOUT & DESINING
PCBs are boards whereupon electronic circuits have been etched. PCBs
are rugged, inexpensive, and can be highly reliable. They require much more
layout effort and higher initial cost than either wire-wrapped or point-to-point
constructed circuits, but are much cheaper and faster for high-volume
production. Much of the electronics industry's PCB design, assembly, and
quality control needs are set by standards that are published by the IPC
organization.
1. The inventor of the printed circuit was the Austrian engineer Paul Eisler (1907–
1995) who, while working in England, made one circa 1936 as part of a radio set.
Around 1943 the USA began to use the technology on a large scale to make rugged
radios for use in World War II. After the war, in 1948, the USA released the
invention for commercial use. Printed circuits did not become commonplace in
consumer electronics until the mid-1950s, after the Auto-Sembly process was
developed by the United States Army.
2. Before printed circuits (and for a while after their invention), point-to-point
construction was used. For prototypes, or small production runs, wire wrap or
turret board can be more efficient.
3. Originally, every electronic component had wire leads, and the PCB had holes
drilled for each wire of each component. The components' leads were then passed
through the holes and soldered to the PCB trace. This method of assembly is called
through-hole construction. In 1949, Moe Abramson and Stanislaus F. Danko of the
United States Army Signal Corps developed the Auto-Sembly process in which
component leads were inserted into a copper foil interconnection pattern and dip
soldered.
4. With the development of board lamination and etching techniques, this concept
evolved into the standard printed circuit board fabrication process in use today.
Soldering could be done automatically by passing the board over a ripple, or wave,
of molten solder in a wave-soldering machine. However, the wires and holes are
wasteful since drilling holes is expensive and the protruding wires are merely cut
off. In recent years, the use of surface mount parts has gained popularity as the
demand for smaller electronics packaging and greater functionality has grown.
5. How to Make Printed Circuit Boards (PCB's)
There are two main methods for the hobbyist to make PCB's. The first is how
most people start; by laying down special etch resistant transfers onto clean copper
board and then etching the board in a bath of ferrous chloride solution. The second
is to produce the artwork (foils) for the PCB layout using a PC software
application, and then to transfer the track pattern to the copper board using a
technique similar to developing and printing a photograph. Both methods are quite
straightforward, but the latter method, which is more expensive but quicker,
produces better results and allows more dense population
of the PCB.
a. I will only provide a summary of the steps involved in making the PCB on this
site, but will make available a document for download in due course that will
provide more details of each stage of the process.
b. Method: here are six main steps to making a PCB, which are shown in the
graphic below. Clicking on each of the steps will provide more information.
At the foot of this page is a downloadable version of these pages.
i. Preparing the Artwork
Using PCB Layout Software: There are a large number of suppliers of PCB layout
applications, which run on a PC, who regularly advertise each month in magazines
such as Elektor. These range in price considerably depending on the functions and
complexity (i.e.: number of layers, pads and size of library) available. I have
always used Proteus (Ares and Isis) from Lab center Electronics.
a. The method is usually to open the layout application and using the library of
packages provided, select all the component packages to be used in the layout (i.e.:
DIL_8, TO_92, RES_30, DIL_20, CAP_20, CONN_SIL4 etc). These packages
are then placed in their rough positions on the board area and their pins connected
together as required by clicking and dragging using the mouse.
b. The screen shot on the right shows the Ares Layout Software Tool in use.
c. This can be time consuming, and you have to be very careful to connect the pins
together correctly as there is no checking mechanism. Alternatively, the circuit
can be entered in an accompanying schematic capture application and the pcb
layout can be laid out automatically using the supplied auto-router. I have never
been able to justify the expense of this luxury and have always used the manual
method!
d. When the artwork is finished, the layers (usually top and bottom) are printed onto
either acetate film (if you can afford it) or good quality tracing paper available
from art shops (70gsm - A4 sheets usually). It is better NOT to reverse (mirror)
the image for the bottom layer as I will explain under 'Developing'. When using
tracing paper, I leave the ink to dry for an hour or so, then sandwich between
several sheets of A4 paper with some heavy books (such as electronic component
catalogues) on top, to flatten the artwork, over night.
e. Using transfers: This is a very slow method, which I used for many years and good
quality results can still be obtained, using etch resistant transfers available from
many electronic component suppliers.
f. The general method is to create the layout on a piece of paper (using different
colored pens for the layers) and then to trace the holes and tracks (including the
board edge) onto tracing paper for each layer. After taping the artwork to the
thoroughly cleaned copper board a centre punch is used to mark the position of the
holes. If there are both top and bottom layers, four of the marked holes can be
drilled through (one near each corner) at this stage, to line up the layers correctly.
g. With a lot of patience, it should now be possible to 'join the dots' with the etch
resist transfers, until the artwork is completed. Great care should be taken to keep
finger marks off of the copper surface and to complete this process as soon as
possible, before the copper oxidizes.
ii. Developing the Artwork
Pre-Sensitized boards: These are relatively expensive, but you get what you pay
for and results can be excellent and quick. The boards are supplied with black
plastic covering the surfaces to protect the Ultra-violet (UV) sensitive surfaces and
this covering is removed immediately prior to using.
a. If the board is to be doubling sided, then before removing the plastic, four pilot
holes can be drilled, as mentioned before, to assist lining up the layers. Tip! :- If
the bottom foil was NOT reversed when printing (as recommended), the printed
side of the artwork will now be as close as possible to the copper surface. This
will result in sharper and better resolution for thin tracks, because the UV light has
less opportunity to 'spread' within the thickness of the plastic film or tracing paper
used for the foil.
b. The foils are affixed to the board with small pieces of adhesive tape. Tip! :- At this
stage the artwork and pcb should be cut larger than the finished board by (say)
5mm all round. The board is then placed in the UV exposure box for an
appropriate amount of time to allow the pcb pattern to be transferred to the board.
Each side of the board is usually exposed separately when using non - professional
equipment. The photo' shows my light box with the Parallel Port Development
Board Foil ready to be used.
c. After exposure, the foils are carefully removed and the board placed in a solution of
developer for a couple of minutes and the tracks and pads will magically appear,
similar to developing a photograph. Caustic Soda can be used with the pre-
sensitized boards and this is available from most hardware stores for cleaning
drains etc. It should be used in a well ventilated area.
d. As soon as the developing is complete, the board must be washed under cold running
water but with care taken to avoid damaging the etch resist on the board surfaces,
which will be very soft at this stage. Etching should now be undertaken as soon as
possible, but keeping the developer solution to one side for use again shortly.
e. Coated Boards: A cheaper method is to use plain copper board and to apply a UV
sensitive coating to it (after cleaning). Electro lube sells such a coating which is
applied from an aerosol spray under low light conditions.
f. I have found this to be a very hit and miss process, where good results are hard to
obtain. If this method is used, it is important for the same manufacturer’s
developer to be used if the process is to work successfully.
Great care should be taken with the Ferric Chloride while preparing, using and
disposing of it. This chemical (and to a lesser extent) the caustic soda developer
solution, should be used in a well ventilated area.
a. Before etching begins, the artwork on the PCB should be inspected for damaged
tracks and hairline cracks, which should be corrected using a 'Dalo' etch resist pen
or similar. If this is necessary, the board should first be dried off, as soon as
possible after developing, with a hair ryer, for example.
b. I have found etching is best completed with the chemical heated to a little above
room temperature, using a hot water- bath. Etching should then take little more
than 15 to 20 minutes with constant agitation of the board. Leaving the etching
bath floating in the hot water-bath makes agitation easy, but be careful not to
splash the chemical about.
c. When the PCB looks ready, it should be carefully removed from the chemical,
using plastic gloves and thoroughly rinsed in a cold water bath. After inspection, if
it is finished then it should be returned to the caustic soda solution, to soften the
resist, which can then be removed with a soft abrasive (e.g.: fine wet and dry
paper).
d. However, I prefer to remove the resist at the end, after all other stages have been
completed.
e. The photo on the left shows some of the materials required for making your own
PCB's. Caustic Soda for developing the artwork, FCC - Ferrous Oxide (etchant)
and a tin of drills.
Cleaning the PCB, is perhaps easiest to do at this stage, as the etch resist is soft,
but I prefer to complete the drilling and cutting of the board to size, first.
Otherwise, a further, final session of cleaning will be needed later.
a. Transfers and etch resist is fairly easily removed with a medium density, waterproof,
abrasive paper, that can be used under running water. Only light pressure is
needed, to avoid damaging the thinner copper tracks. This can be followed by use
of a very fine paper to give a better finish.
b. If an etch resist pen (such as a 'Dalo' marker pen) has been used, this is easily
removed by using a solvent, such as nail polish remover! However, this can stain
the pcb, if you are not careful to clean up the residue quickly.
c. The picture, right, shows from top clockwise, the original art work, (printed on
good quality tracing paper). Then the exposed design before etching and finally,
the etched layout ready for drilling and finishing.
v. Drilling the PCB
Most PCBs these days, contain a few IC's as a minimum, and this can quickly
multiply the number of holes that need to be drilled.
a. It is important, especially with dual sided boards, that the holes are drilled with the
drill 'upright' so that the holes are lined up in the middle of the pads on both sides.
This is easy if you have a small bench drill which will fit into a pillar stand, but if
you don't, what can you do?
b. I use a 12 volt modeler’s drill, which I hold in two hands above the board, and rest
both wrists on the table surface. I can then use the weight of both hands to hold the
copper board down tight at the same time. In this way I manage to hold everything
rigid and am able to use light pressure to ease the drill through the board
c. A soft material should be placed under the board for the drill to pass into, such as a
spare piece of cork or an old 'jiffy' bag! Whatever method is used, it is important
NOT to allow any sideways movement of the PCB (or the drill) if breakage of the
drill bit is to be avoided.
d. The drills used, should be the Tungsten Carbide type (which usually have a larger
shank) as these will not blunt as quickly as the ordinary metal HSS drills. These
are about three times as expensive, but if breakages are avoided, will work out at
better value in the long run.
e. I have found that it is best to use a range of drill sizes - 0.8mm for IC pads and
most other components, 1.0mm for thicker component leads (diodes and
regulators) and 1.2mm for some larger components. The normal practice of
drilling a pilot hole and then the final size later should not be tried, as this will
result in the snapping of the brittle Pcb drills, which tend to 'snatch' as they enter a
pilot hole. Therefore, drill each hole only once, with the correct sized drill.
At last, the etching has been done, the holes have been drilled and the last task
before soldering the components is to finish the PCB so that it looks as
professional as possible. First, the oversize board can be cut to size, using a
hacksaw or similar. Make the saw cut just outside the copper board edge, to allow
for filing/smoothing of the rough cut pcb edge. Take care not to rub fingers and
hands against the rough PCB edges, as the glass fibers are so fine, they can enter
the body! Similarly, do not breathe in dust generated when drilling, cutting or
filing the board. The board should now be cleaned as described in the earlier page,
but if this has already been completed, then a light rub over with a fine,
waterproof, abrasive paper should be carried out.
a. The board, with shiny copper tracks, is now ready for assembly and soldering.
After this has been completed, and basic functional testing carried out (to spot the
stupid mistakes), the bottom surface should be coated with a protective lacquer, to
prevent oxidization of the tracks, over time. This should be done as soon as
possible after component assembly.
b. A better approach (which does not always look so good!), is to 'tin' the copper
tracks before component assembly. This takes some practice, if a messy result is
to be avoided, but the key to success is heat and flux!
c. Smear a THIN layer of plumbers flux across the surface to be tinned, then using
the soldering iron and the minimum possible solder, work the solder across the
pads and along tracks as quickly as possible. Avoid using too much heat on
thinner tracks to avoid damaging them. Finally, inspect the board for solder
bridges between tracks and pads - a small magnifier may be useful for this task
d. The flux is messy and this is best removed using cellulose thinners, in a well
ventilated area. Followed by a wash with soapy water. A protective lacquer is not
needed with tinned boards, but will enhance appearance, if applied to the finished
board after components have been assembled and soldered.
e. The picture here shows a tinned pcb ready for cutting and cult board
Currently the main generic standard for printed circuit board design, regardless of
materials is IPC-2221A. Whether PCB board is single-sided, double-sided or
multilayer, this standard provides rules for manufacturability and quality such as
requirements for material properties, criteria for surface plating, conductor
thickness, component placement, dimensioning and tolerance rules, and more. For
a specific technology the designer can then choose the appropriate sectional
standard from the IPC-2220 series. For power conversion devices additional
parameters are recommended by IPC-9592.
IPC and other standards do not tell you how to properly route the board. Good
PCB layout techniques require understanding of the effects of non-zero trace
impedance and coupling of signals from one circuit to another through parasitic
capacitances and radio transmission, as well as basic understanding of circuit
operation. Auto-routing may be done for most parts of control circuits, but power,
ground and high di/dt circuits should be routed by hand.
7. PROJECTWORKING
As shown in circuit diagram a card of IR , Tx and Rx module is used. In this card
one IR transmitter and one IR receiver is given.IR transmitter is driven by IC
ULM2003.this IC consist of Darlington pair which gives high current to IR
transmitter .output of card gives +5 voltage when transmitter and receiver are in
line of sight otherwise output port remains at zero voltage. output is given to base
of transistor. when base of transistor is at high voltage then transistor comes in
conduction mode and in this way circuits completes and buzzer turns on. it is
working of model but when we use this circuitry in bike then instead of buzzer we
use bike horn for alarm.
Another way of controlling output and buzzer is through relay. A 5 voltage relay is
used to control buzzer. When relay get 5V as input supply then it short circuits the
connection between power source and buzzer.when it doesn’t get 5v supply then
relay remains off.
Features
On Board Regulator
Operating voltage from 6V - 20 V
3 Sensors in an array form
TTL compatible outputs
Indicator LED's for each sensor to ensure correct working while testing
Indicator LED's on other side for better view
Less sensitive to external ambient light
Can Detect colour difference
Reverse Polarity Protection
7.1 CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
IR Tx
IR sensor
Whiteplacard REI309
ULN2003APG
B
8.ADVANTAGES & PREVENTION
Financial Cost
In addition to the initial acquisition cost of an item, the cost of replacement or
recovery from its theft is usually considered when considering the cost of installing
an anti-theft system. This cost estimation usually determines the maximum cost of
the anti-theft system and the need to secure it. Expensive items will generally be
secured with higher-cost anti-theft systems, while low-cost items will generally be
secured at low cost. Insurance companies will often mandate a minimum type of
anti-theft system as part of the conditions for insurance. All you have to do to is get
it built into the car and when the engine is off the car will lock itself if forgotten.
Ease of Use
Security is often compromised through the lax application of theft-prevention
practices and human nature in general. The ideal anti-theft device requires no
additional effort while using the secured item, without reducing the level of
security. In practice, users of security systems may intentionally reduce the
effectiveness of an anti-theft system to increase its usability (see passwords). For
example, home security systems will often be enabled and disabled using easy-to-
remember codes such as "1111" or "123", instead of more secure combinations.
9.FUTURE SCOPE
In the extension of project as major project within minor project we complete only
first layer of Anti-Theft Bike Alarm. In first layer ,handle lock is used on handle
bar for the safty of bike but when someone crack or break the lock then horn of
bikes turn on.In second layer security system, we use GSM based system. when
our bike is being theft then this system sends a message on cellphone of owner.
10.CONCLUSION
The whole circuit is assembled on a general purpose PCB; moreover, it must be kept
in a suitable cabinet to prevent it from external unwanted disturbing radiations for effective
performance.
Holes have been drilled in the front panel for mounting of IR sensor and LEDs. The
whole assembly should be handled with care.Transmitter & Receiver should be within line of
sight.The project can be most helpful in stopping theft of bikes.The quality of each
components should be up to the mark because even the failure of single component can stop
the working of whole assembly of components.
This is low cost project, useful and easy to install project. This project is compatible
with all types of bikes.It can be Installed and remove easily according to our requirement.
11.BIBLIOGRAPHY