Exploring Generation Z Consumers' Attitudes Towards Sustainable Fashion and Marketing Activities
Exploring Generation Z Consumers' Attitudes Towards Sustainable Fashion and Marketing Activities
Exploring Generation Z Consumers' Attitudes Towards Sustainable Fashion and Marketing Activities
BACHELOR DEGREE
THESIS WITHIN: Business Administration
NUMBER OF CREDITS: 15
PROGRAMME OF STUDY: International Management
AUTHOR: Younan Liu & Ye Hei
JÖNKÖPING June 2021
1
Bachelor Thesis in Business Administration
Abstract
2
Table of Contents
1. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................... 5
5. ANALYSIS ............................................................................................................................................. 48
6. CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................................ 55
7. DISCUSSION .......................................................................................................................................... 56
3
7.1 CONTRIBUTIONS .............................................................................................................................................. 56
7.2 LIMITATIONS .................................................................................................................................................... 57
7.3 FUTURE RESEARCH .......................................................................................................................................... 57
APPENDICES .............................................................................................................................................. 69
4
1. Introduction
The objective of this chapter is to provide background information on key terms and issues
necessary for comprehending the studyt.
1.1 Background
In recent years, one of the primary key words in the fashion industry's development has
been "sustainable development." According to Vogue Business's analysis of ten fashion
industry behemoths' annual reports, the words "sustainable", "sustainable",
"environment", and "environmental" appear on at least every four pages in the
company's 2018 annual report. It is more than six times what it was twelve years ago
(Nast, 2021).
From a corporate standpoint, sustainable consumption is still very beneficial for society
and presents lucrative economic opportunities. According to current estimates, the
fashion industry is worth around $2.4 trillion. There is a prediction that the industry
will see continued growth in the next years ("Home-The UN Alliance for Sustainable
Fashion", 2021). The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion is a UN agency and a
connected organization. One of its strategies designed to help reach the UN Sustainable
Development Goals (or achieve sustainable development) that involves concerted
action by the fashion industry. A data research business, Edited, evaluated the online e-
commerce platform product lists of 52,000 different clothes businesses and found that
the sales volume of garment products with environmental protection-related
information in their product information has increased dramatically over the previous
three years (Marci, 2021).
This demonstrates that the consumer market is prepared, and that market demand has
5
acknowledged the concept of sustainable development. Consumers are willing to pay a
premium for environmentally conscious products. Consumer opinions have
increasingly shifted, and more people now value fashion firms that prioritize
sustainable production ("Pulse of the Industry — GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA,"
2019).
The majority of consumer research on sustainable fashion brands shows that Generation
Z is one of the most loyal customer groups (Grazzini, Acuti & Aiello, 2021). For the
past few years, top fashion corporations and fashion brands that operate in many nations
and regions have recently launched sustainable fashion consumption marketing
campaigns. And along with that, the relevant academic research is also on the rise.
There are numerous studies which investigate the gap between consumer attitudes and
behaviors about sustainable fashion consumption; and, the motivation and value
underpinning consumers' actual behavior when they engage in sustainable fashion
consumption. However, the majority of studies are focused on a single market, with
samples drawn from the general population (Lundblad & Davies, 2016).
On August 23, 2019, at the G7 Summit, 32 global fashion and textile giants, including
Kering, Chanel, Hermès, H&M, and Zara, signed a historic "Fashion Pact" that would
ensure that sustainable development is strongly supported in the chain's and firms'
everyday operations ("The Fashion Pact-The Fashion Pact", 2021). As a result,
sustainable fashion marketing has gained prominence. Additionally, the organization is
continually exercising and updating its marketing actions in worldwide locations to
promote sustainable fashion consumption. Numerous marketing tactics, on the other
hand, are inefficient or even ineffective. That is, while consumers have a favorable
attitude toward sustainable purchasing, they have yet to make sustainable fashion
purchases. This is frequently the result of a combination of causes and these variables
have been extensively studied in academic study (Lundblad & Davies, 2016).
Additionally, there are ethical concerns, such as Greenwashing, which occurs when
customers perceive sustainable marketing methods to be deceptive. The primary
6
problem is that customers lack awareness of the fashion industry's environmental
impact and hence are unable to make sustainable purchasing decisions (McNeill &
Moore, 2015). Brands encounter difficulties in communicating with consumers about
sustainable fashion while also establishing effective associated marketing efforts. When
fashion brands promote, they frequently need to target a variety of distinct segments.
Gen Z, as the consumer group with the greatest purchasing potential in the global
market, presents both opportunities and challenges when it comes to marketing
sustainable fashion to them.
However, scholarly study on how fashion businesses may convey sustainable fashion
to customers remains limited. Additionally, sustainable fashion firms must be engaged
in a variety of countries and cultures, and the worldwide market's customers must be
analyzed. Numerous studies focus only on a specific market and customer segment in
a specific country. There is no way to tell how Gen Z consumers feel about marketing
efforts developed by sustainable fashion manufacturers based on the available literature.
Therefore, two research questions are proposed to help fill the gap. The current study
aims to determine the important factors that influence Gen Z consumers' decisions to
purchase sustainable fashion and their opinions about marketing actions promoting
sustainable fashion in the global market. This enables brands to communicate more
effectively with their target set of consumers, enabling them to conduct brand marketing
campaigns on a global scale while simultaneously targeting several customer cultures.
1.3 Purpose
RQ1. What are Gen Z consumers' attitudes towards purchasing sustainable fashion?
1.4 Delimitations
As a consumer study, the sample population consists primarily of foreigners who have
lived in several countries for an extended period of time. The sample population was
chosen based on their embrace of cultural diversity and the diversification of
information, as well as their observed behavior in daily dealings and living. However,
participants have their own criteria for judging sustainability, they cannot accurately
represent the public opinion in a particular country's market, and there may be
individual differences in their attitudes toward sustainable fashion.
1.5 Definitions
1.5.1 Generation Z
9
1.5.2 Sustainable Fashion
2. Literature Review
This chapter summarizes previous studies and literature on sustainable fashion, Generation Z,
and sustainable fashion marketing. Further discussion of concepts and theories will be
conducted in order to establish a conceptual and theoretical context that will serve as a basis
10
To expand knowledge, we must first understand what is offered and where its frontiers
are located. We will be able to comprehend the depth and breadth of existing knowledge
and discover holes in it through literature studies (Xiao & Watson, 2017). Furthermore,
by analyzing and synthesizing relevant material, we will be able to test hypotheses,
generate new ideas, and critically evaluate the quality of current information (Albrecht,
Davar, Eisenberg, Pare & Rice, 2006). Our research questions drive the entire process
of literature review.
Firstly, the literature search and identification process was initiated by using the
keywords "Gen Z" "Gen Z fashion consumers" "sustainable fashion" "sustainable
fashion consumption" "fashion marketing" "sustainable fashion marketing" from the
research question. Initial relevance was determined by the title and abstract, and if it
matched the research topic, full information was obtained for further evaluation.
Several databases such as Primo, JSTOR and EBSCO were used to search the literature
to ensure that the search was comprehensive. Recent studies may be more pertinent to
the current situation and hence provide more insightful information. Furthermore, we
prioritized locating the most current literature, but did not disregard earlier material that
had received widespread citations, as this supplied the required theoretical and
conceptual underpinnings for the literature.
Reverse searches, such as those found at the end of journals' reference lists, were used
to locate pertinent work cited in the article, and forward searches were performed to
locate all papers that cite the article (Watson and Webster, 2002). Also, the articles of
the primary writers who contributed to the research were reviewed. High-quality
references include journal articles and books published by renowned publishers, as well
as peer-reviewed academic journals and scholarly books.
The search process's validity and reliability were increased by using numerous papers
provided by the tutor as references for the literature search criteria and then doing an
independent search for journals. We would terminate the search if successive searches
11
returned the same references with no new results (Levy and Ellis, 2016).
41 articles were examined to determine their suitability for data extraction and analysis.
On the basis of the study's design and methodology, inclusion and exclusion criteria
were defined (Okoli and Schabram, 2010), taking into account factors such as
geographical region, study population, industry, qualitative analysis, and sampling
method. Studies that did not match the criteria for inclusion were removed. In turn,
literature that satisfies the criteria will provide direction on data collection coding and
the construction of semi-structured interview questions, among other things.
In the 1960s, sustainable fashion made its first appearance. At that time, customers
became aware of the clothes manufacturing industry's environmental impact and
pressured the industry to improve its operations (Jung & Jin, 2014). After decades of
growth, sustainable fashion is typically examined from three perspectives: the first
consideration is environmental sustainability. For example, the raw materials used in
manufacturing and packaging are renewable and environmentally friendly, and so are
the concerns of transportation and carbon emissions; the second is social sustainability,
which entails fair salaries and normal working conditions, as well as safety precautions
and labor rights (Joergens, 2006). Finally, there is the ethical factor to be considered.
The key to sustainable fashion development is a balanced approach to fashion
manufacturing that encourages long-term relationships, supports local production, and
places a premium on transparency (Ozdamar Ertekin & Atik, 2014).
Another issue is that sustainable fashion brands are more expensive than fast fashion
brands (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates, 2016). Environmentally friendly materials are
the decisive criteria. Even if consumers have a favorable attitude toward sustainability,
they may not accept the price premium connected with apparel. Consequently, the
challenge is to interact with consumers and persuade them to increase their purchasing
power (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates, 2016). A surprising phenomena is that buyers
may be unaware that sustainable fashion can be more affordable than they originally
believed (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates, 2016). After the industry's leading companies
continue to raise the image of sustainable fashion, customers will view sustainability as
a high-end fashion. However, fast fashion firms are pushing the concept of
sustainability by demonstrating how fast fashion firms break the standards of
sustainable fashion in terms of production cycles, causing customer confusion. This
also demonstrates a brand's inability to communicate sustained value to consumers
effectively (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates, 2016).
Additionally, the reasons for sustainable fashion purchases are used to express one's
ideals and beliefs, as well as to satisfy one's self-demand, or aesthetic satisfaction. This
is similar to other motives for fashion consumption, such as the need for uniqueness
and personalization. Consumers of sustainable fashion are also motivated by ethical
considerations while making purchasing choices (Lundblad & Davies, 2016). Beliefs
include decreasing waste and clothing consumption, promoting businesses that improve
working conditions and treatment of factory workers, in order to mitigate risk to others
in society, and seeking innocence. Avoid psychological guilt with conscience and
personality (Lundblad & Davies, 2016). Meanwhile, purchasing sustainable design is a
means of expressing political opinions (Gardetti & Girón, 2013), including those
concerning animal rights, the environment, and labor rights.
14
particularly among younger consumer groups. Although college students believe that
they should make an effort and remain active in the cause of sustainable fashion, they
nevertheless hope that the pricing is within their price range before purchasing (Hill &
Lee, 2012). Additionally, the issue of green washing has been discussed numerous
times in the context of sustainable fashion consumption. Due to the frequent occurrence
of this issue, consumers may be cautious and skeptical of such businesses, casting doubt
on their legitimacy and sustainability. On the other hand, they may reconsider their
purchases due to poor information gathering or a lack of clarity in the brand's marketing
campaigns (Gardetti & Torres,2013).
Fashion is one of the most dynamic industries in overall, owing to its dynamic products.
(Jin Gam, 2011). Consumer behavior when it comes to purchasing sustainable apparel
is likewise extremely complex. Furthermore, there are distinctions in the purchasing
behaviors of various customer groups. Sustainable fashion is a broad concept that is
rather subjective. Based on the fact that it can signify different things to various people
(Ard, 1995), we need to understand consumers' specific attitudes. Accordingly, the
fundamental purchasing behaviors of consumer groups, as well as the important
consumer groups on which this research focuses, will be explained, as well as the
purchasing behaviors of Generation Z.
15
According to Evans, Jamal, and Foxall (2009), consumer behavior encompasses all of
the actions consumers take to acquire, use, and dispose of consumer products, as well
as the decision-making process that precedes and determines these acts, and even a
succession of complicated activities such as the acquisition of consumer income.
Consumer behavior is viewed as fluid. Evans, Jamal, and Foxall (2009) state that it
entails the interaction of perception, cognition, behavior, and environmental elements,
as well as the transaction process. In order to identify the factors, we can consider the
following three significant ones that have a significant impact on customer behavior:
(1) variations in consumption propensity as a result of consumption expenditures and
expenditure budgets; (2) consumer spending structure plans, changes in consumption
structure, and the factors that influence them; and (3) the psychology and specific
behavior associated with product purchase.
Generation Z will soon overtake Millennials as the most influential generation in the
retail industry's future. They are the first customers in the digital era to completely
mature. They obviously have advantages in terms of purchasing power and access to
digital information. By 2026, a significant number of people will have enormous
consumption power ("Sustainability", 2021). Besides this, Gen Z is referred to as
"Generation Green" due to their environmentally and socially responsible shopping
behavior. When customers select products, the terms "organic" and "environmental
protection" will be prominent. Putting a value on morality and environment is a status
symbol and manifestation of their ambition ("Sustainability", 2021).
As heavy user of social media, Generation Z's buying intention is typically marketed
through social media platforms, and the purchase intention is formed by associating
themselves with brand personality and equity (Thilina, 2021). Hence, marketing
strategies are advised to be developed and refined by concentrating on the most
essential components affecting Gen Z's use of social media.
Companies can advertise and market their products on social media or via the use of
influencers. However, the downside is that poor performance will have severe
consequences, including a deterioration in the brand's reputation, and customers' trust
17
in environmental and social responsibility is largely determined by the brand's or
company's reputation among consumers (Shen, Wang, Lo, & Shum, 2012). Gen Z also
indicated favorable sentiments about the products of companies who practice CSR
(Ariker, 2017).
The key distinction between Generation Z and other consumer generations is in the
manner in which and why they make purchases. The generation Z's self-image is
typically characterized by high self-esteem and complete trust in their own talents (Van
den Bergh & Pallini, 2018). As a response, Gen Z is resistant to direct marketing from
the market, exhibiting a higher level of negative attitude (Van den Bergh & Pallini,
2018.) Their primary source of knowledge for fashion purchases is frequently social
media, and they prefer to connect with and be influenced by influential people, such as
celebrities or KOLs. Their social group has the most influence on them. Generation Z
heavily relies on fashion's "social value." Additionally, more "personalized" fashion
manifestations such as celebrities, bloggers, and key opinion leaders (KOLs) use a large
portion of their free time. Moreover, films and live broadcasts are the main source of
fashion knowledge (Van den Bergh & Pallini, 2018).
Joshi and Rahman (2015) argue that purchasing secondhand clothing may be more
appealing to Gen Z than purchasing sustainable clothing. Firstly, generation
Z purchases to adapt to social trends, because environmental awareness and
consumption reduction are current social trends, and the high-end brands sold in
second-hand stores conform to this trend, are reasonably priced, and also fit the Z
generation's increased personality. Additionally, there are prerequisites for self-image.
The motivations for purchasing used items are frequently unrelated to fashion trends,
but rather to environmental sustainability and cost savings (Machado, Almeida, Bollick
& Bragagnolo, 2019). Because young generation Z buyers lack the financial means to
purchase sustainable new products on the market. However, secondhand clothes lacks
consumer appeal, as well as issues with worn-out appearance or hygiene (Machado,
Almeida, Bollick & Bragagnolo, 2019).
18
This demonstrates that generation Z consumes sustainable fashion for a variety of
reasons, which can be characterized as trends, economic benefits, and sustainability
(Kihl & Vähänen, 2018). Different motives have varying degrees of importance, and
the motives interact and balance one another, affecting the final buying choice. The
general scenario is that the first type is that consumption can become fashionable while
also providing economic benefits. The second is to meet the goal of sustainable
consumption while maintaining an acceptable level of economic benefit. Sustainable
consumption is frequently used to improve one's self-image or to adapt to one's own
group of friends and peers (Kihl & Vähänen, 2018).
Generation Z's primary priorities, such as pop culture, interest groups, and social
hotspots, are inextricably linked to their fashion consumption and scene preferences.
Fashion is a significant method of expression for Generation Z, and they also
significantly rely on it to identify their identity and belonging in the social scene where
their peers congregate.gather. Identity and belonging (Özkan, 2017). Generation Z is
more receptive to traveling to diverse interest groups in order to exchange experiences.
Generation Z is no longer content with discovering fashion breakthroughs within
established trends. Along with the upgrade in lifestyle and scene demand following the
epidemic, Generation Z's strong desire for a high-quality of life puts a focus on fitness,
camping, and home, among other scenes, and attempts to experiment with new forms
of personality expression in these new normal (Djafarova & Bowes, 2021).
19
Generation Z is confronted with cognitive dissonance, as societal trends and improved
information raise their awareness of the importance of sustainability as a lifestyle
choice, yet this frequently contradicts with their desire to acquire newly manufactured
products (Priporas, Stylos & Fotiadis, 2017). As a consequence, Generation Z chooses
to avoid unsustainable clothes or to justify their purchase of fast fashion. While Gen Z
see fast fashion as environmentally damaging and unsustainable, many Gen Z
customers purchase it in fact. Instead, they pursue sustainability in other categories,
such as transportation and food (Su & Chang, 2017).
Gen Z is unable to make sustainable buying decisions since they do not know how or
where to access information about the fashion industry's carbon footprint. Generation
Z lacks sufficient information on sustainable fashion consumption. On the contrary,
they are motivated and psychologically affected. They are unaware of which fashion
brands are sustainable or where to obtain pertinent information. This generation
assumes that higher-priced premium products will be better made, but they lack
knowledge to back up this claim (Wood, 2013).
As Çora (2019) states, generation Z customers have a stronger appetite for and
acceptance of global brands. They constantly come into touch with the latest fashion
and luxury brands on the worldwide market as a result of the popularity of international
travel and the development and diffusion of Internet information. Clothing discussion
is a typical occurrence among friends and classmates, and they are adamant about
expressing their individuality and distinctiveness. They are extremely brand-conscious
and materialistic in their mindset. Additionally, they spend more on fashion since they
can use their parents' credit cards and receive financial assistance and presents from
their parents (Çora, 2019).
20
2.6 Sustainable Fashion Marketing
Fashion marketing is a very new practice with only a few decades of history. It
manifests itself in a variety of ways. It is intrinsically linked to the fashion system
(Jackson & Shaw, 2010).
The fashion system is defined as the fashion system offers a "structure, organisation
and processes employed to conceive, create, produce, distribute, communicate, retail
and consume fashion. [It] embodies the full supply chain of fashion and includes not
only the individual components, (what the action is) but also the methods adopted to
enable and realise each activity (how it is being done)” (Vecchi & Buckley, 2016). And,
where applicable, by effective promotion, to take the product and make it available to
existing and future consumers, who constitute the "market." Additionally, fashion
marketing is inextricably tied to the marketing mix (Vecchi & Buckley, 2016). This
model is used to describe all areas of fashion marketing throughout the book!Master
Fashion Marketing"and!Fashion Marketing and Communication".
Large organizations, particularly stores on streets and lanes, play a critical role in
conveying the essential message of sustainable fashion (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates,
2016). The purpose of sustainable fashion marketing is to educate consumers and
increase their awareness of the industry's sustainability challenges (Jackson & Shaw,
2010). Furthermore, it aids in the stimulation of customer purchasing behavior.
According to research, store-related factors such as display design and environment, as
well as retail convenience and ethics, will influence consumer decision-making
positively (Chan and Wong, 2012). Familiarity with the product, such as its design,
pricing, and quality, can also have a beneficial effect (Kihl & Vähänen, 2018).
Generation Z, in particular, values distinct and individual styles, which means that
products must also be visually appealing. Accordingly, sustainable marketing is
necessary. When creating a product, it is necessary to present both vital information
21
and comprehensive information about the product, while emphasizing the interpersonal
relationship and mutual interests of the consumer (Kihl & Vähänen, 2018).
Sustainable marketing can also play a key part in communication, regardless of whether
it is through online or offline channels (Henninger, Alevizou, & Oates, 2016). While
research indicates that communication has become a priority, marketing and
communication strategies must be carefully developed and implemented to ensure that
consumer expectations are met. When marketing is done effectively, a business can
achieve a competitive advantage (Shen, Wang, Lo, & Shum,2012). Social media is a
popular channel for sustainable marketing because it is viewed as an effective tool for
promoting sustainability problems and as a source of sustainability communication
(García Medina, Pereira Correia & Alberola Amores, 2019).
Traditional media is gradually losing influence, and Generation Z prefers rising trend
information distribution platforms such as Vlogs and online live broadcasts. Commonly
used marketing tactics include sustainability labels, which enable consumers to quickly
get pertinent sustainability information (Rossi & Rivetti, 2020). In sustainable fashion
marketing, the terms ecological, green, organic, sustainable, and natural are used
interchangeably with other types of advertising or businesses (Yin, 2014). Although
Yin believes that this has little specific relevance. It is preferable to present
sustainability information directly related to manufacturing and products, rather than
creating suspicion among consumers. Sustainable fashion marketing is also fraught
with difficulties. Studies have demonstrated that the terms and terms used in sustainable
fashion marketing and communication are too complex for customers to understand and
can easily lead to misunderstandings (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018). Given the lack of
information and expertise regarding sustainability, customers typically have a limited
grasp of sustainable and ecologically friendly clothes.
When it comes to sharing information about the sustainability of brands and products,
if the information is not complete and the transparency is lacking, consumers will easily
begin to doubt and lose trust. Alternatively, the business may be unable to deliver on
22
actual promises due to the use of overly restricted sustainable procedures or even green
cleaning, eroding consumer trust and diminishing reputation (Park & Lin, 2020).
Additionally, this type of information must be swiftly and easily comprehended by
customers, which means that marketing must be succinct and simple to apply.
Sustainable marketing encompasses not only environmental objectives, but also ethical
issues, such as entry and exit from markets that pose an unacceptable level of social or
ecological risk, as well as ethical grounds for firms to examine if it is worthwhile to
abandon specific markets to avoid legal, reputational, or sociopolitical concerns
(Kemper & Ballantine, 2019). Traditional marketing is profit-driven and revenue-
driven. Sustainable marketing also emphasizes psychological factors, such as consumer
satisfaction and consumers' desire to remain brand loyal (Kemper & Ballantine, 2019).
Therefore, this again shows that understanding the specific attitudes of consumers is
essential for sustainable marketing.
The consumer black box model, which is used to describe the factors that impact a
customer's purchase behavior, is used to illustrate the consumer's psychology when
making a purchase decision and the reasons behind the purchase behavior (Lye, Shao,
Rundle-Thiele, & Fausnaugh, 2005). According to the black box model, the factors
influencing customers' buying decisions are both internal and external stimuli. The
black box serves as a primary motivator and focal point for the buyer to make a purchase
(Lye, Shao, Rundle-Thiele, & Fausnaugh, 2005).
External stimuli included in the black box include the marketing mix and other market
considerations. The 4P marketing mix is the collection of stimuli that a company plans
and develops (Keegan, Moriarty, Duncan, 1992). Environmental stimuli are generated
by the economic, political, and cultural environments of society. Combined, these
23
factors contribute to the external environment that aids in consumer choice promotion
(Keegan, Moriarty, Duncan, 1992).
On the other hand, internal factors allude to a consumer's unique characteristics. These
personal qualities include economic status, group affiliation, occupation, social class,
culture, and lifestyle beliefs and attitudes, which the consumer's brain considers when
he or she becomes conscious of his or her requirements (Lye, Shao, Rundle-Thiele, &
Fausnaugh, 2005). When a consumer perceives an issue that needs to be solved and
begins considering which product to purchase to address it (Lye, Shao, Rundle-Thiele,
& Fausnaugh, 2005).
In this situation, the customer begins to respond to external stimuli, and their 'black box'
begins filtering and matching products based on internal characteristics, ultimately
leading to the customer making a purchase decision. Additionally, the consumer is
given the option of how and where to make the purchase (Varsha, Reshma, Khyati,
2014). The important component of the black box model is the decision-making process,
during which the consumer becomes aware of the problem they're trying to solve and
chooses the most appropriate solution to assist them in accomplishing their objective
based on their scenario (Varsha, Reshma, Khyati, 2014).
The black box's decision-making process assists the consumer in collating all relevant
and available information from internal and external sources. After doing a thorough
analysis of the data, the black box matches the consumer's evolving wants with the
product that best meets the idea's requirements. The black box model assumes that
regardless of how the consumer's four vocalizations were made, their replies are the
outcome of a rational decision-making process (Haq, Abbasi, 2016). However, when
customers are presented with stimuli such as price incentives, promotional incentives,
and so on, the black box process is largely influenced by external factors, such as
environmental factors or marketing mix (particularly the 4p's). The black box in their
head initiates an analysis process that is not always rational and swiftly makes a
24
judgment, upon which the trend consumer acts. Consumers' illogical and emotional
character is one of the variables that contribute to their susceptibility to marketing
stimuli and, consequently, to irrational and impulsive expenditure. (Cornwell, Weeks,
Roy, 2005).
Consumer preferences for brands and businesses also factor heavily into the purchasing
decision-making process. The black box processes various attitudes differently
depending on whether they are favorable or negative and ranks them according to
individual preferences. The black box is a collection of the consumer's own personal
criteria that are used to meet a need and eventually make a purchase decision, and hence
cannot avoid making decisions based on personal preferences and irrational impulsive
purchases (Haq, Abbasi, 2016).
From the consumer's perspective, the black box model depicts the process from
identifying a need to making a purchasing choice (Haq, Abbasi, 2016). Due to the
study's objective of examining Generation Z consumers' opinions and purchasing
behavior toward sustainable fashion products, it was inextricably linked to the black
box concept on multiple levels. In determining Generation Z customers' attitudes
toward sustainable fashion items, the black box model provides an overview of the
complete decision-making process, elucidating the various internal and external aspects
that might impact the final decision. External influences have a varying effect on
different consumers when it comes to making a buying decision (Varsha, Reshma,
Khyati, 2014).
The black box model depicts the consumer's cognitive process as an opaque box in
which their emergent buying needs are combined with the decision-making process,
allowing for a more intuitive understanding of how consumers make product purchase
decisions.
25
Figure 1: The Black Box Model of Consumer Behaviour. Adapted from “Marketing”
by W. Keegan, S. Moriarty, T. Duncan, 1992, p. 193. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-
Hall.
The marketing mix was first conceived by Neil Borden in 1940 and was introduced by
E. Jerome McCarthy in 1960 as part of the process of building contemporary marketing
(Sood, 1995). After being subdivided, it became an integral part of contemporary
marketing theory and is frequently employed. It enables businesses to assess and match
target consumers' requirements and behaviors via products, prices, locations, and
methods, as well as to influence consumers' demands and purchase intentions (Jackson
& Shaw 2010).
Due to worldwide market shifts, this theory is ineffective in the face of e-commerce
and online marketing, as it concentrates exclusively on the seller's perspective and
ignores customer requirements (Kihl & Vähänen, 2018). The new manufacturing mix:
4Ds is a new marketing mix for fashion marketing proposed by Olga Mitterfellner. It is
more appropriate for all forms of fashion businesses in the twenty-first century
(Mitterfellner, 2019).
26
Figure 2: The New Marketing Mix: 4Ds (Mitterfellner, 2019)
The advancement of 3D and 4D printing technology has altered the way products are
designed. Chanel and Uniqlo's smart Airism materials are also popular on the global
market (Mitterfellner, 2019). Consumer groups' younger generations place a higher
premium on product design. Generation Z, for example, is no longer content with
identifying fashion breakthroughs inside existing popular trends. They place a higher
premium on the uniqueness of things in order to demonstrate their originality
(Mitterfellner, 2019).
27
are more concerned with the brand's image (Jackson & Shaw 2010).
As the fashion industry is international and global, and as the global market matures
and the Asian and Indian markets rapidly develop, this is the only method to expand
into new countries and advance toward internationalization. The importance of
diversity must be stressed and expressed. For instance, many companies in the fashion
industry may prioritize recruiting international personnel in order to increase diversity
(Mitterfellner, 2019).
28
components of the research into a more intuitive format (Miles, Huberman & Saldana,
2020). Secondly, by combining two existing models: the black box model, which
provides guidance on influencing consumer purchasing behavior based on external
environmental stimuli and internal consumer characteristics; and the new marketing
mix: 4Ds, with its innovative focus on fashion marketing and emphasis on international
markets, which are deemed more suitable than traditional markets.
As a consequence, it assists in identifying the data that should be collected and analyzed
next in the study, as well as in analyzing the empirical findings (Miles, Huberman &
Saldana, 2020).
29
3.1 Research Philosophy
The research design of the research is determined by the research philosophy, which is
concerned with the origin, development, and incorporation of the knowledge used into
a system. The way in which relevant data should be collected and analyzed is
determined by research philosophy (Dudovskiy, 2018). The idea of research will guide
the author's choice of using a certain research philosophy. There are four major
categories of research philosophy such as Pragmatism, Positivism, Realism, and
Interpretivism. Among them, positivism and interpretivism are used more subjectively
in the values of positivism and interpretivism (Dudovskiy, 2018).
Among them, interpretivism pays more attention to the interaction with the research
objects. In order to formulate the most reasonable method of research data collection
according to the characteristics of the research object and facilitate in-depth analysis,
interpretivism is used according to the needs of specific cases and different methods to
collect data. For example, in different cases, the interview method in the study of
interpretivism is used to obtain in-depth information in order to enable the author to
further analyze the key issues of the case.
As the aim of this study is to examine the consumer attitudes of Generation Z consumers,
it is based on the theoretical foundations of consumer habits known within the field of
fashion business research, as well as research related to the typical sustainable
consumption characteristics of Generation Z consumers, and uses accepted perspectives
such as consumer motivation. This means that this study starts with a frame of reference
such as a defined theory or hypothesis, which is observed and tested against reality
(Collis & Hussey, 2003). Therefore, a deductive approach was used in this study and
30
the hypotheses in this study were constructed as research questions (Pearse, 2019).
Furthermore, given that this study will examine the attitudes and behaviors of
Generation Z consumers toward sustainable consumption, as well as the need of
elucidating the meaning and contextual implications of consumers' views and behaviors
in a particular context (in this study, this refers to the fashion marketing context).
The research design section will follow the purpose of the study and the strategy of
deductive qualitative research, and explain the specific way in which the research
methods were implemented.
In this project, the researchers chose to use semi-structured interviews for data
collection to obtain in-depth information about the attitudes of Gen Z consumers
towards sustainable fashion and sustainable fashion marketing campaigns. When
collecting data for the study, the authors conducted semi-structured interviews with a
total of 12 participants.
Semi-structured interviews focus on the concerns of researchers and are more open and
objective, which can help researchers gain a more comprehensive understanding of
what respondents think and what is behind them (Carruthers, 1990). The aim is to
maintain the flexibility of the interview and to communicate with the interviewees in
large numbers to make it easier to obtain reliable qualitative data (Gill, Stewart,
Treasure, et al. 2008). The disadvantage is that different questions are discussed with
32
the interviewees in each interview, and it is difficult to compare them (Gill, Stewart,
Treasure, et al. 2008).
As the research develops, we may need to connect some existing literature in order to
explain our findings by demonstrating that the conclusions drawn from the raw data are
consistent with what is occurring. Secondary data sources include peer-reviewed
academic publications and scholarly publications issued by reputable publishers. To
ensure that the interview questions were exhaustive and to avoid a data shortage that
would later preclude replies to the research questions, an interview guide was
established in advance (See Appendix 1).
3.3.2 Sampling
In terms of research, the authors defined the sample characteristics and used a purposive
33
sampling strategy to avoid random sampling, ensuring that the samples used in the
study were compliant and the conclusions were more reliable (Denieffe, 2020).
The respondents who were chosen matched the following three characteristics: 1. The
population of Generation Z (born between mid 1990s and early 2010s); 2. At least one
year of study and living abroad experience; 3. Have an understanding of the term
"sustainable products" or have purchased sustainable products.
The reason sampling was chosen, due to the fact that their experience studying abroad
gives them a culturally diversified character, as that they are relatively typical of the
target group of sustainable fashion customers in the international market. This is
because Generation Z customers are frequently exposed to and purchase the latest
fashion and luxury brands on the worldwide market as a result of their strong demand
and acceptance of foreign brands (Özkan, 2017). Respondents who studied abroad have
a broader understanding of multinational companies and are more vocal about
sustainable fashion firms operating in a variety of countries and cultures.
All questions were categorized according to the conceptual framework and, once
categorized, were re-matched to the conceptual framework to guarantee full coverage.
As this was an interpretive study, the 'Why' and 'How' questions were designed to elicit
further information (Yin, 2014).
For the current project, at least 10 samples are needed for qualitative research (Vasileiou,
Barnett, Thorpe & Young, 2018). The authors collected 12 valid samples. Interviews
were conducted with adults over the age of 18, with the possibility of parental influence
on the purchase of fashion products by minors. There were slightly more women than
men among the respondents.
34
Number Gender Birth Countries of
Year Study
1 Male 1997 UK
8 Female 1998 UK
The qualitative data are analyzed using reflexive thematic analysis. Braun, Clarke, Terry,
and Hayfield (2019) assert that the method helps in the resolution of research problems
by discovering patterns in the data. The pattern identification process is rigorous, as it
incorporates familiarisation with the data, data coding, theme creation and revision. The
advantage is that it is theoretically flexible and can be applied to a variety of contexts
and types of research questions (inductive, deductive, etc.).
35
It is especially appropriate to the study of issues involving people's perceptions and
experiences, which corresponds to the study's research questions. The study employs a
deductive approach to reflective thematic analysis, with coding and theme generation
guided by pre-existing concepts or ideas (Braun, Clarke, Terry & Hayfield, 2019).
Figure 4: Phases in doing reflexive thematic analysis (Braun, Clarke, Terry & Hayfield,
2019)
The six stages of the analysis process were utilized as a guide to help in the study's data
analysis (See Figure 4). The first stage involved reading and re-reading the original
interview data in order to become familiar with its content. To preserve the integrity
and detail of the data, the interviews were audio recorded, and to eliminate language
bias, they were conducted in English.
Then came the step of coding. As this was a deductive thematic analysis, the codes were
not derived from the data, but rather from the literature (Pearse, 2019). That is, this
phase will establish labels for the codes and data in order to categorize them in order to
facilitate the extraction and organization of data relevant to the research question.
Besides, assisting in the creation of themes. Coding was done manually in Excel, by
36
establishing tables for the transcriptions of the audio. Following that, keywords were
highlighted to generate labels.
The following stage was theme generation. The data would be compared to the research
questions (essentially the themes) to evaluate if they validated or disproved them
(Boyatzis, 1998). The conceptual framework developed previously for this study will
be utilized to cross-reference and review the initial themes (See Figure 3), with the goal
of matching the data to the research questions and determining if they do so properly.
Academic literature that matched the researcher's inclusion and exclusion criteria for
the study's design and methods would be used as a secondary resource to assist with
data analysis (Boyatzis, 1998). Eventually, the final themes are determined. The
analysis part that follows will go into detail about the study in conjunction with the
current literature.
Due to the large amount of personal information that needs to be collected from
participants, several ethical issues were considered for a privacy feasible study. The
conversations in this study were voluntary. The names of the interviewees were not part
of the data to be collected and the authors committed to anonymity in the use of the
data (Gioia, Corley and Hamilton, 2013). It was not the authors' responsibility to inform
each interviewee of the purpose of the interview and to explain to the interviewees that
their responses would be recorded and transcribed. Interviewees have the right to
terminate the interview and withdraw from the interview at any time. The authors'
interviewees do not include minors under the age of 18.
Personal information of respondents to this study will be kept in strict confidence and
stored in a manner that requires authorization to access. The information collected from
37
the interview will be used for the purpose of this study only, and if it needs to be reused
in subsequent studies, this will be done with the permission of the interviewee. If the
interviewees wish to see what conclusions the authors have drawn from their own
answers, the authors are obliged to send the articles to them.
4. Empirical Findings
The following four themes were identified based upon the result of data analysis:
Consumer Perception of Design; Consumer Perception of Diversity; Consumer
Perception of Desire; Consumer Perception of Digitalization. Each theme corresponds
to closely related subthemes, which will be elaborated within each of the following
themes.
38
This theme demonstrates Generation Z's perspective on design when exposed to
external marketing environment stimuli. Along with the data gathered through the
conceptual framework, attitudes and perceptions are strongly tied to the inherent
characteristics of customers.
Individuality and distinct styles are extremely enticing to Gen Z consumers who desire
to express themselves uniquely through their attire. They are also eager to experiment
with new sustainable fabric technologies, but will not pay a premium for a single
fashion design. Respondent 11 said:
"I know of a sustainable brand that offers clothing made with new fabrics or
technologies, but they have a limited selection of styles to choose from. Although I was
interested, there was no style that suited me, so I did not purchase it."
"This technology allows for products to be produced with fewer workers, and less
labour should keep the cost of the garments down. And when I go out with my friends,
I can tell them about this garment of mine, made with 3d and 4d printing technology,
which sounds unique! But when I found out the price of that product, I was reluctant to
buy it. For that kind of price I could buy a fashionable product with normal production
techniques but with a more innovative style."
39
Respondent 3 said:
"I am more attracted by the fact that some brands offer clothes made from old materials
rather than new technology, which is also very unique and designed in such a way that
I can see that the materials used are sustainable. I would a be willing to buy one."
This theme explores the varied effects of external marketing environment stimuli on
Gen Z regarding diversity. Values and beliefs are strongly tied to the inherent
characteristics of customers .
Gen Z maintains its tolerance and acceptance for belief differentiation. Respondents to
interviews lauded sustainable brands' diversity efforts. Sustainable firms invest much
in communication and utilize a range of methods to advertise their latest products. LED
screens on the street, advertisements on a variety of mobile applications. Respondents
generally agreed that advertising effectively communicates the diversity of sustainable
brands. Additionally, they note that from particular sustainable fashion brands, and they
inform authors that they observe varying levels of content in their home and host
countries.
One interviewee discussed the range of sustainable brand products, describing how she
previously had a fashion item she adored but it wasn't available in the place she studied
(Italy), so she requested a friend in that country to purchase it for her.
Gen Z customers was idenfied that they have distinct values, and the brands they
purchase can help them stand out and be consistent with those beliefs. When marketers
can't deliver on their promises, they drastically diminish the chances that Gen Z
consumers would purchase the product. And brands that breach the ideals represented
40
by Gen Z consumers risk losing this segment of the generation. Diversification is
critical for sustainable companies. They must not only vary their products, but also their
marketing to entice consumers in target countries to acquire products with a cultural
and aesthetic connection to the local market. However, such marketing does not always
succeed due to cultural differences.
The authors were provided a failing example of corporations responding to local culture
during a more in-depth, more detailed conversations with respondent 6. While he
supports efforts to diversify sustainable companies, he identifies gags that corporations
employ in the absence of a thorough awareness of the target market's culture. He
demonstrated a well-known brand's wares to the author, including a clothing with
Chinese characters with the expectation that it would be cool and appealing to Chinese
consumers. However, the product does not appear to be cool in Chinese. Because the
Chinese characters on the clothing are unattractive, it is clear that the designer did not
intend to use them; the birth of this product was not motivated by a desire to learn about
the target market's local culture, but by a desire to maximize profits in the target market.
Interviewee 3 commented on this:
"I can see that many well-known sustainable brands are trying to integrate into the local
cultures of different markets."
Respondent 12 said:
"Brands do a good job of diversifying their products in terms of culture. I have seen in
some of the big brands' online shops that the selection of clothing and accessories
recommended for display on the home page can vary depending on the country or
region."
Interviewee 7, who told the author that her undergraduate degree was in brand
management, said:
41
"I know that many international brands expect regional directors to have a local
background. For example, an Asian regional director is Asian or someone who is
familiar with Asian culture and has lived in Asia."
Interviewee 6 said:
"You can see a lot of brands trying to appeal to local consumers and using graphic
design with local elements. But sometimes they look really bad and can screw up new
products."
"There are sustainable brands that do a good job of self-promotion, and they have a lot
of interesting, want-to-buy products. But the brand doesn't put its promises into practice
or does something that goes against what it claims to be sustainable. For a brand like
this, it's already on my blacklist."
Interviewee number 9 expressed his opinion on the matter of H&M burning clothes:
"It goes against their propaganda and is a deception to us consumers. And I will no
longer pay for their false propaganda."
This theme emerged from Generation Z's perceptions of desire in response to external
marketing stimuli. According to the conceptual framework and data analysis, the
42
primary characteristics that are strongly connected with intrinsic consumer attributes
are knowledge, personality, and family.
"I like to buy oversized as well as unisex clothes and I often buy menswear, so why
not?"
"I don't spend a lot of time on selection, so I would just buy those luxury brands, first
of all because I can be assured of quality and comfort, but also because a lot of
celebrities are wearing them, which is cool. It makes me look in good taste."
When asked further about the celebrities, the interviewee stated that he was referring to
a favorite e-sports player. And, more precisely, they could not be named; they were
simply impressed by the fact that they had seen them dressed often on social media.
This category is frequently seen as a popular opinion leader among young people.
43
Additionally, respondents were highly receptive to new apparel brands. They are eager
to discover and acquire unique brands. This is because it is a new brand with unique
attributes that often attracts them.
On the other side, female responders are more likely to actively explore the expertise
behind fashion, the emergence of cutting-edge trends, and refining their grasp of
fashion in order to translate it into their own particular aesthetic. Respondent 4 stated:
Throughout the interviews, the term 'premium' was frequently mentioned. Simply
appearing "premium" and "luxurious" is not considered premium by them. They admire
the new concept of wearability, versatility, and quality in a low-profile manner. They're
searching for modest, inconspicuous materials and sparsely thought-out designs. The
majority of respondents indicated that they would chose what was most cost effective
and sought high utilization, adaptability, and sustainability.
"Since it is clothing that you wish to get, you will set aside that amount of money.
Unless it is too expensive, I would choose to ask my parents for advice or express my
wish for it to be a gift. Or they would choose to pay for it in instalments themselves."
44
Respondent 8 also stated:
"I would give myself a cooling off period and if after a while, I still want it badly, then
I would do everything I could to purchase it. Conversely, I would not choose to make
the purchase anymore."
"I buy local Canadian sustainable brands in order to buy them as gifts for my family."
Another respondent 11 who had studied in the United States for three years stated:
"It just so happened that the brand was on sale, plus there was a desire to buy it, so I
purchased it."
Of course, there were also participants who bought out of love for the product itself or
loyalty to the brand, but only three respondents. They said they bought the products
because they agreed with the packaging and the aesthetics of the minimalist packaging
and that they wanted their wardrobe and even their other daily necessities to be made
up of these products in minimalist packaging and with green features. But when asked
if they had researched or were 100% sure about the sustainability of their products, they
hesitated and replied.
45
But when all participants were asked, "Would you buy a sustainable brand if you found
out that it was not sustainable? Even though the product is very appealing to you." They
all said no unanimously.
Certainly, there were many who were skeptical about sustainable fashion and had never
purchased it before. They stated that they were skeptical of fashion manufacturers'
sustainability, but it was too time consuming to determine whether the sustainability
was true, so they simply chose not to buy. Participant 11 stated:
"But if you can easily prove to me that you're sustainable and it's appealing enough to
me, I think I'll buy it."
Lifestyles of Gen Z consumers was identified as the key features to guide their purchase
behavior. Online shopping is the main way in which the interviewees shop, but offline
shopping is also a part of shopping that the interviewees said they would not part with.
Online shopping channels are abundant, with cross-border e-commerce sites being very
popular due to the variety of brands, the greater choice of designer brands, the price
advantage of major international brands compared to brick-and-mortar shops in their
home country, and the sophistication of features such as delivery, shipping and
communication. Most of the interviewees buy sustainable brands not locally, but
through the internet for international brands with a better brand image and higher
46
visibility in the industry. The convenience of digital channels such as online virtual
fittings, electronic payments and online fashion shows were also aspects that
interviewees recognised. The influence of offline boutiques and flash shops is on the
rise, and the interviewees concluded that their strengths lie in the furnishings, the caring
service, what you see is what you get, and the pleasure of shopping online, all of which
cannot be replaced by online shopping. One respondent who studied in Sweden for four
years 9 stated:
"The first time I bought sustainable fashion was in a mall in Sweden and the shop
displays and billboards caught my eye, as Swedish clothing is known for its
sustainability and I was keen to try and buy and experience it once. Plus I visited their
website and the designs and pictures on the site appealed to me. Even if the price was
a bit more expensive, I could live with that, after all it is not often that I need to buy."
Respondent 4 stated:
"I have been working out recently and was looking to buy a sportswear brand. But didn't
want to buy brands like Nike and Adidas which are everywhere on the street. So I found
a brand that claims to use special technological fabrics and to be environmentally
friendly, plus its design is particularly futuristic, but as the price is a bit beyond
expectations, I'm still on the fence to see if there are any reviews of it on social media
before deciding whether to buy it. Of course if the product is on sale I will definitely
purchase it to try it out."
The influence of reference groups on the purchasing decisions made by the Generation
Z group of consumers is enormous in the interview data. When respondents answered
questions about brand marketing, more than half of them had more or less negative
attitudes towards marketing, focusing mainly on visual fatigue of the marketing
messages flooding the internet and doubts about their authenticity. Interviewer 3 had
this to say:
47
"Recently there has been a steady stream of international brands caught up in public
opinion and the heat on social media has been so intense that I have browsed the news
on several occasions. So, I probably won't be purchasing this brand in the near future,
although I don't know if the news is 100% accurate, but the best option is to avoid it."
"I buy sustainable fashion pieces that are often worn by my favourite singer who looks
great in them and recommends them on social media. It was a bit more expensive, but
I chose to buy it anyway. And practising sustainable consumption is a worthwhile thing
to do."
5. Analysis
48
environmental factors such as cultural and social variables. External stimuli normally
perform on the consumer's brain, but since each consumer's qualities vary, these varied
perceptions and responses to external stimuli result in varied purchasing decisions.
The interviewees agreed that design is critical for fashion products, not just in terms of
appearance pattern and color, but also in terms of Gen Z customers' interest and
tolerance for new materials and manufacturing technologies. They view experimenting
with new technology as an essential step toward a brand's sustainability.
Piñatex (Hijosa, 2015), cited as a revolutionary material to produce pineapple leaf fiber
from recycled waste, is a material that not only helps the environment at a raw material
level, but also brings social benefits such as increased employment and education in
pineapple growing areas. Many sustainable brands have adopted piñatex and consumers
have praised the fabric's performance.
Rothy's brand creates shoes entirely out of eco-friendly materials, with the uppers
constructed entirely out of recycled plastic. Burberry has also produced an eco-friendly
material called ECONYL, which is a high-quality textile created from nylon sourced
primarily from ocean debris and some other recycled material from waste (Ciambella,
2020). While the brand prioritizes eco-friendly materials, it also guarantees that each
product has a distinct design aesthetic. For young Gen Z consumers who are prepared
49
to experiment, fashion products manufactured from plants and recyclable materials
provide an unexpected twist. Consumer testing and purchasing establishes a predictable
future for innovative fabrics (Blackburn, 2015).
Generation Z consumers respect diversity, but they also have their own set of values
and the ability to distinguish between right and wrong. With the assistance of current
communication technologies, brands are attempting to increase their impact through
advertising, which provides Gen Z customers with a plethora of channels for
understanding the brand and determining whether the brand's conduct aligns with their
own beliefs prior to purchasing or not.
The media and social media sites in China have been dominated by consumers (many
of whom are Gen Z consumers) and celebrities who have boycotted D&G and their
products, with "no more D&G" and "please apologise seriously" dominating the
internet platforms were dominated by "will not buy D&G anymore" and "please
50
apologise". Before the start of the D&G show, several spokespeople had already
announced that they were canceling their contracts with D&G and the Shanghai
government had announced that the show was canceled. On the day of the event, D&G
products also disappeared from various shopping platforms, causing a significant
negative impact on the D&G market in China (China Crisis, 2021). Not only in China,
but the D&G advertising video also caused protests in Italy, looking at the disrespect
and sexism towards women.
This case shows that Gen Z consumers are indeed very conscious of what brands say
and do and that brands that make racist and sexist statements are going against their
values. Sustainable brands in the international marketplace should refrain from racist,
geo- and sexist advertising, which can not only cost the brand its reputation and
profitability in the target market but can also cause psychological distress, negative
health effects, and even political problems for those who are treated unfairly (Kwate,
2014).
Our findings suggest that Gen Z consumers have strong values and this is evidenced in
the case study, so we can conclude that values and beliefs are the criteria for Gen Z
consumers to accept brand diversity.
The respondents' expressions of their own aspirations for fashion consumption and
sustainable fashion consumption demonstrate that Generation Z consumers are
committed to their own uniqueness, have a strong desire to express themselves, and are
continually exploring new modes of expression (Priporas, Stylos & Fotiadis, 2017).
This is consistent with the interview findings, which indicate a desire for individualized,
niche brands, a high level of devotion to companies that reflect their personality, and a
preference for products that are both affordable and of excellent quality. Consumption
of sustainable clothes also meets their needs. When it comes to sustainable fashion
51
consumption, they look for product features and self-worth that align with the group's
profile of individualism and distinctive labels (Straker & Wrigley, 2016). It is apparent
that for Gen Z customers, personality is a very personal trait that plays a significant part
in driving them to purchase when external brand images and products arouse them.
Along with price, which is not the primary consideration for Gen Z consumers, the
family has a significant influence on their purchase behavior, as indicated by their
parents' general financially support for their children and their acceptance of their
spending habits, i.e. it is understood and justified that Gen Z spend a bigger percentage
of their money on fashion. Generation Z, likewise, have a major influence on family
purchasing behavior (Özkan, 2017), and because Generation Z parents are also highly
enlightened, their spending potential is regarded to be spurred by their children's buying
attitudes.
Additionally, the interviews indicate that Gen Z consumers are generally willing to alter
their purchase behaviors in order to mitigate their negative environmental impact.
When it comes to sustainable fashion consumption, they typically prioritize quality,
select classic and timeless trends, and make fewer purchases (Priporas, Stylos &
Fotiadis, 2017). However, for Gen Z, pricing is not the primary consideration, and a
small number of consumers will purchase a product merely because it is sustainable or
because of eco-friendly packaging and green ideas. And, because they are more
concerned with quality and have a broader price range, this behavior frequently
contributes to consumption reduction. This is partly indicative of the family's effect on
buying behavior.
Generally, women are more conscious of sustainable consumerism than men (Fromm,
2018). This is consistent with previous research on other consumer groups, with
consumers aged 20 and under expressing the greatest interest in sustainable
consumption. According to Park & Lin (2020), the majority of consumers have
purchased sustainable items on a proactive basis. At 81.5 percent, the category of home
52
building and decoration is the most significant to sustainable consumption, followed by
food, automobiles and accessories, clothing and apparel, household items, and
technology (Henninger, Alevizou & Oates, 2016). Clothing and apparel are
substantially more popular among Gen Z, as consumer apparel is the sector that
demands the greatest attention to Gen Z's evolving culture and aesthetics (Henninger,
Alevizou & Oates, 2016).
Numerous academic studies, however, have repeatedly indicated that a large gap exists
between consumers' buying decisions and awareness (Park & Lin, 2020). This is
reflected in the empirical findings, which indicate that while sustainable habits are
gradually forming among Generation Z, they continue to experience challenges when
shopping for sustainable products, including a lack of effective sustainable product
identification and a restricted selection of sustainable products, both of which have a
substantial impact on Generation Z's consumption. This, however, is notably different
from the problems affecting other consumers, such as excessive pricing and a lack of
knowledge about where to purchase (Thilina, 2021). In addition, Gen Z consumers have
more access to information about sustainable fashion than expected, and are more active
in researching information than previous research has shown. Female consumers, in
particular, seek information sources to obtain information about products and brands
before making a purchase decision. This is also due to the increasing diversity of
information channels for fashion consumption decisions, not only social media, but also
interest circles, opinion leaders among young people and the popularity of short video
platforms, all of which can influence Generation Z's consumption decisions (Fromm,
2018).
The buying habits and tastes of respondents indicate that Generation Z's reliance on
internet resources and their desire for digitalisation are growing. The importance they
place on information and decision-making channels is remarkable, given Gen Z
consumers have grown resistive to traditional marketing and promotional techniques
(Jackson & Shaw, 2010). Additionally, Kaur (2014) notes that because social media is
a natural way for Gen Z consumers to consume information, a focus on online
marketing and the launch of effective campaigns can play a critical role in fostering
communication and trust between brands and consumers. The significance of opinion
leaders cannot be disregarded, as reference groups have a significant influence on
purchasing behavior, particularly for Generation Z consumer group (Fromm, 2018).
54
communication with consumers and an offline emphasis on the consumer purchasing
experience.
6. Conclusion
The purpose of this study was to explore the attitudes of Generation Z consumers
towards sustainable fashion and sustainable marketing campaigns around the world.
Two research questions were derived:
RQ1. What are Gen Z consumers' attitudes towards purchasing sustainable fashion?
Twelve interviews with international students who have studied and lived in various
countries for an extended period of time were conducted to answer the research
questions. The study drew on existing literature on consumer attitudes and their internal
characteristics, as well as external marketing stimuli that influence customer attitudes.
While Generation Z consumers are initially conscious of sustainable fashion, the single
characteristic 'sustainability' of a product is not a key driver of their purchases, but only
when combined with effective external marketing stimuli, and at the same time, the
internal characteristics of the consumer come into play and respond positively to the
marketing stimuli. The positive response is manifested in the creation of a purchase
behaviour.
Gen Z consumers are characterized by the following distinctive features: they value the
lifestyles and values associated with products; they value diversity in fashion and
expect their uniqueness to be respected; they prioritize desire over pricing and brand
image; and they have a preference for digital channels and digital technology.
55
And the interpretation in the marketing environment is represented as follows: products'
design becomes significant for Gen Z customers, as only fashion designs will currently
have no appeal to this generation, maintainable design should be developed so that the
design stays trendy and intriguing while also providing practical and sustainable
benefits.
The significance and impression of the brand on globalization and regard for
multiculturalism.
The establishment of a unique brand image is pivotal, which includes creating desire in
the minds of customers and making Gen Z consumers willing to pay for it. Sustainable
fashion brands need to consider how to appropriately promote themselves and fabricate
an autonomous brand image that will entice Gen Z customers willing to pay for the
premium of reasonable products.
One crucial step is the further improvement of digital channels. For sustainable fashion
brands, digital campaigns are an extraordinary way to reach out global consumers and
build up powerful correspondence channels with the digitally-oriented population of
Gen Z consumers.
7. Discussion
7.1 Contributions
Two models were employed creatively in this research to develop the conceptual
framework (theoretical framework) for evaluating Generation Z consumer performance
in foreign marketplaces and contextualizing it within a marketing context. In other
words, this study examines the views of Generation Z customers in the context of
56
international marketing. The study integrates multiple relationships in order to conduct
this test, thereby filling the gap in academic research in this field. In the business study,
it serves as a guide for sustainable fashion businesses as they develop marketing
campaign plans aimed at the global market's crucial consumer group, Generation Z.
7.2 Limitations
There are a number of limitations to the current study that may have an impact on the
conclusions drawn. First, the scope of this study does not include Gen Z sustainable
fashion buyers from all cultures and countries, and the sample size within each culture
and country is small. The inadequate sample size may have affected the validity and
reliability of the study results. Second, the interview methodology may have asked
respondents subjectively biased questions due to the relatively low level of reality
marketing awareness of the researchers, resulting in less objective results.
Despite the best efforts of the researchers to obtain the most valuable and trustworthy
results, as discussed previously, this study has some limitations. Therefore, the authors
should eliminate these constraints in future studies. First, the researchers should expand
the sample size to include additional countries and regions, as well as expand the sample
population to include consumers in the local market, which will contribute to the study's
validity and reliability. Second, the sample population should also include Generation
Z consumers from a variety of socioeconomic backgrounds and with different economic
ranges. This aims to determine whether the results of this study are also applicable to
Gen Z consumers who exhibit less noticeable consumption characteristics.
57
Alphabetical list of references
Albrecht, P., Davar, G., Eisenberg, E., Pare, M., & Rice, F. (2006). Response to Editorial
on Albrecht et al. (2006). Pain, 123(1), 217. doi: 10.1016/j.pain.2006.03.007
Bangsa, A. B., Schlegelmilch, B. B., 2020, Linking sustainable product attributes and
consumer decision-making: Insights from a systematic review, Journal of Cleaner
Production, Volume 245, 2020, 118902, ISSN 0959-6526,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.118902.
Braun, V., Clarke, V., & Hayfield, N. (2019). ‘A starting point for your journey, not a
map’: Nikki Hayfield in conversation with Virginia Braun and Victoria Clarke about
thematic analysis. Qualitative Research In Psychology, 1-22. doi:
58
10.1080/14780887.2019.1670765
Bryman, A., & Bell, E. (2015). Business research methods. Oxford: Oxford Univ. Press.
Carey, L., & Cervellon, M. (2014). Ethical fashion dimensions: pictorial and auditory
depictions through three cultural perspectives. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And
Management, 18(4), 483-506. doi: 10.1108/jfmm-11-2012-0067
Chan, T., & Wong, C. (2012). The consumption side of sustainable fashion supply
chain. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An International Journal, 16(2),
193-215. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222824
Chen, Y., & Chang, C. (2012). Greenwash and Green Trust: The Mediation Effects of
Green Consumer Confusion and Green Perceived Risk. Journal Of Business Ethics,
114(3), 489-500. doi: 10.1007/s10551-012-1360-0
Collis, J., & Hussey, R. (2003). Business Research. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
59
Cornwell, T., Weeks, C., & Roy, D. (2005). SPONSORSHIP-LINKED MARKETING:
OPENING THE BLACK BOX. Journal of Advertising, 34(2), 21–42.
https://doi.org/10.1080/00913367.2005.10639194
Dabija, D. (2018). Enhancing green loyalty towards apparel retail stores: A cross-
generational analysis on an emerging market. Journal Of Open Innovation: Technology,
Market, And Complexity, 4(1). doi: 10.1186/s40852-018-0090-7
D’Arco, M., Marino, V., & Resciniti, R. (2019). How to (Not) Survive a Social Media
Firestorm: The Dolce & Gabbana’s Ad Debacle in China. In Advances in National
Brand and Private Label Marketing (pp. 181–189). Springer International Publishing.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-18911-2_23
Djafarova, E., & Bowes, T. (2021). ‘Instagram made Me buy it’: Generation Z impulse
purchases in fashion industry. Journal Of Retailing And Consumer Services, 59, 102345.
doi: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2020.102345
Evans, M., Jamal, A., & Foxall, G. (2009). Consumer behaviour (2. ed.). John Wiley.
Evans, S., & Peirson-Smith, A. (2018). The sustainability word challenge. Journal Of
Fashion Marketing And Management: An International Journal, 22(2), 252-269. doi:
10.1108/jfmm-10-2017-0103
60
Fernando, Y., & Wah, W. (2017). The impact of eco-innovation drivers on
environmental performance: Empirical results from the green technology sector in
Malaysia. Sustainable Production And Consumption, 12, 27-43. doi:
10.1016/j.spc.2017.05.002
Fromm, J. (2018). Marketing to Gen Z : The Rules for Reaching This Vast--and Very
Different--Generation of Influencers. Amacom.
García Medina, I., Pereira Correia, P., & Alberola Amores, L. (2019). How the digital
age has changed the corporate communication world: the case of Digital Marketing in
the Fashion Business. IROCAMM-International Review Of Communication And
Marketing Mix, 2(1), 87-94. doi: 10.12795/irocamm.2019.v02.i01.08
Grazzini, L., Acuti, D., & Aiello, G. (2021). Solving the puzzle of sustainable fashion
consumption: The role of consumers’ implicit attitudes and perceived warmth. Journal
Of Cleaner Production, 287, 125579. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125579
Gardetti, M., & Girón, M.(2013) Sustainable Luxury and Social Entrepreneurship.
Gardetti, M., & Torres, A. (2013). Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles – Values,
Design, Production and Consumption. Management Of Environmental Quality: An
International Journal, 24(4). doi: 10.1108/meq.2013.08324daa.012
Generation Z - Affiliate Marketing Product Review Site. (2021). Retrieved 3 May 2021,
from https://incomeresult.com/generation-z/
Gill, P., Stewart, K., Treasure, E. et al. (2008). Methods of data collection in qualitative
research: interviews and focus groups. Br Dent J 204, 291–295.
61
https://doi.org/10.1038/bdj.2008.192
Haq, M., & Abbasi, S. (2016). Indirect Impact of Hedonic Consumption and Emotions
on Impulse Purchase Behavior: A Double Mediation Model. Journal of Management
Sciences, 3(2), 108–122. https://doi.org/10.20547/jms.2014.1603202
Henninger, C., Alevizou, P., & Oates, C. (2016). What is sustainable fashion?. Journal
Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An International Journal, 20(4), 400-416. doi:
10.1108/jfmm-07-2015-0052
Hijosa, C. (2015). Piñatex: the design development of a new sustainable material. Royal
College of Art
Hill, J., & Lee, H. (2012). Young Generation Y consumers’ perceptions of sustainability
in the apparel industry. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An
International Journal, 16(4), 477-491. doi: 10.1108/13612021211265863
Home - The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion. (2021). Retrieved 3 May 2021, from
https://unfashionalliance.org/
Jin Gam, H. (2011). Are fashion‐conscious consumers more likely to adopt eco‐friendly
clothing?. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An International Journal,
15(2), 178-193. doi: 10.1108/13612021111132627
Joshi, Y., & Rahman, Z. (2015). Factors Affecting Green Purchase Behaviour and
Future Research Directions. International Strategic Management Review, 3(1-2), 128-
143. doi: 10.1016/j.ism.2015.04.001
Jung, S., & Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future
of the apparel industry. International Journal Of Consumer Studies, 38(5), 510-519. doi:
10.1111/ijcs.12127
Kaur, P. (2014). Relationship between social networking sites usage pattern and
motivations behind usage: a study of generation Z 'a digital generation'. International
Journal of Applied Services Marketing Perspectives, 3(2), pp. 996-1004.
Keegan, W., Moriarty, S., Duncan,T., (1992), The Black Box Model of Consumer
Behaviour. Adapted from “Marketing”, p. 193. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
Kwate, N. (2014). “Racism Still Exists”: A Public Health Intervention Using Racism
“Countermarketing” Outdoor Advertising in a Black Neighborhood. Journal of Urban
Health, 91(5), 851–872. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11524-014-9873-8
Le, B. C. (2014). Fashion marketing : Influencing consumer choice and loyalty with
fashion products. ProQuest Ebook Central https://ebookcentral.proquest.com
Levy, Y., & J. Ellis, T. (2006). A Systems Approach to Conduct an Effective Literature
Review in Support of Information Systems Research. Informing Science: The
International Journal Of An Emerging Transdiscipline, 9, 181-212. doi: 10.28945/479
Lundblad, L., & Davies, I. (2016). The values and motivations behind sustainable
fashion consumption. Journal Of Consumer Behaviour, 15(2), 149-162. doi:
10.1002/cb.1559
Lye, A., Shao, W., Rundle‐Thiele, S., & Fausnaugh, C. (2005). Decision waves:
consumer decisions in today’s complex world. European Journal of Marketing, 39(1/2),
216–230. https://doi.org/10.1108/03090560510572098
Machado, M., Almeida, S., Bollick, L., & Bragagnolo, G. (2019). Second-hand fashion
market: consumer role in circular economy. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And
Management: An International Journal, 23(3), 382-395. doi: 10.1108/jfmm-07-2018-
0099
Marci, K. (2021). The Sustainability EDIT 2020 Retail Analysis | EDITED | Market
Intelligence. Retrieved 3 May 2021, from https://blog.edited.com/blog/resources/the-
64
sustainability-edit-retail-analysis
McNeill, L., & Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion
conundrum: fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice.
International Journal Of Consumer Studies, 39(3), 212-222. doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12169
Miles, M., Huberman, A., & Saldana, J. (2020). Qualitative data analysis. Los Angeles,
Calif. [etc.]: Sage.
Park, H., & Lin, L. (2020). Exploring attitude–behavior gap in sustainable consumption:
comparison of recycled and upcycled fashion products. Journal Of Business Research,
117, 623-628. doi: 10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.08.025
65
Priporas, C., Stylos, N., & Fotiadis, A. (2017). Generation Z consumers' expectations
of interactions in smart retailing: A future agenda. Computers In Human Behavior, 77,
374-381. doi: 10.1016/j.chb.2017.01.058
Rossi, C., & Rivetti, F. (2020). Assessing Young Consumers’ Responses to Sustainable
Labels: Insights from a Factorial Experiment in Italy. Sustainability, 12(23), 10115. doi:
10.3390/su122310115
Shen, B., Zheng, J., Chow, P., & Chow, K. (2014). Perception of fashion sustainability
in online community. The Journal Of The Textile Institute, 105(9), 971-979. doi:
10.1080/00405000.2013.866334
Shen, B., Wang, Y., Lo, C., & Shum, M. (2012). The impact of ethical fashion on
consumer purchase behavior. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management: An
International Journal, 16(2), 234-245. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222842
Sood, S. (1995). Brand equity and the marketing mix. Cambridge, Mass.: Marketing
Science Institute.
Straker, K., & Wrigley, C. (2016). Emotionally engaging customers in the digital age:
the case study of “Burberry love”. Journal Of Fashion Marketing And Management,
20(3), 276-299. doi: 10.1108/jfmm-10-2015-0077
Su, J., & Chang, A. (2017). Factors affecting college students’ brand loyalty toward fast
fashion. International Journal Of Retail & Distribution Management, 46(1), 90-107. doi:
10.1108/ijrdm-01-2016-0015
66
Sustainability. (2021). Retrieved 24 May 2021, from
https://www.businessinsider.com/sustainability
The Fashion Pact - The Fashion Pact. (2021). Retrieved 3 May 2021, from
https://thefashionpact.org/?lang=en
Tuttas, C. (2015). Lessons Learned Using Web Conference Technology for Online
Focus Group Interviews. Qualitative Health Research, 25(1), 122–133.
https://doi.org/10.1177/1049732314549602
Valor, C., Carrero, I., & Redondo, R. (2013). The Influence of Knowledge and
Motivation on Sustainable Label Use. Journal Of Agricultural And Environmental
Ethics, 27(4), 591-607. doi: 10.1007/s10806-013-9478-3
Van den Bergh, J., & Pallini, K. (2018). Marketing to Generation Z. Research World,
2018(70), 18-23. doi: 10.1002/rwm3.20660
Varsha J., Reshma V., Khyati J. (2014), Exploring Generation Z's Purchase Behavior
towards Luxury Apparel: a Conceptual Framework, Romanian Journal of Marketing,
Issue 2, pp.18-29
Vasileiou, K., Barnett, J., Thorpe, S., & Young, T. (2018). Characterising and justifying
sample size sufficiency in interview-based studies: Systematic analysis of qualitative
health research over a 15-year period. BMC Medical Research Methodology, 18(1),
148–148. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12874-018-0594-7
67
Vecchi, A., & Buckley, C. (2016). Handbook of Research on Global Fashion
Management and Merchandising. Business Science Reference.
Watson, R., & Webster, J. (2020). Analysing the past to prepare for the future: Writing
a literature review a roadmap for release 2.0. Journal Of Decision Systems, 29(3), 129-
147. doi: 10.1080/12460125.2020.1798591
Yin, RK. (2014). Case Study Research, Design and Methods, 5th edn, Thousand Oaks,
SAGE Publications
Özkan, A. (2017). Generation Z - The Global Market’s New Consumers- And Their
Consumption Habits: Generation Z Consumption Scale. European Journal Of
Multidisciplinary Studies, 5(1), 150. doi: 10.26417/ejms.v5i1.p150-157
68
Appendices
Introduction
We are two bachelor students from Jönköping University program International Management.
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this interview. The conversation in this interview
will only be used for our thesis research, which is exploring Generation Z Consumers' Attitudes
towards Sustainable Fashion Consumption and Marketing activities regarding sustainable fashion?
We will start with general questions related to clothing and fashion products and gradually move to
our topic - your attitudes towards sustainable fashion. You are welcome to ask questions and make
suggestions at any time during the interview, and to discuss with us on the issues that interest you.
Your active participation will help us to improve the interview and get a better understanding of
What country did you study in? How long have you been studying abroad?
Interview Questions
1. How often do you buy fashion products? How much do you spend on fashion purchases each
2. What kind of fashion brands do you tend to be attracted to? (Reference directions: brand
69
reputation, brand spokesperson, brand story, international brand, brand from a specific country,
3. Since you are still in college or have just started working, we are curious about where you usually
get your money for fashion products. (You may not answer if you feel uncomfortable disclosing)
a. When you buy expensive products, do you make your own decisions and purchase them?
b. Have you ever been in a situation where you gave up on a purchase because the price was too
high? Why?
c. Have you ever been in a situation where you insisted on buying because the price was too high?
4. What are your main reasons for buying fashion products? (Reference directions: values, personal
style, etc.)
b. Do you believe that wearing fashion products can reflect your personality and attitude to a certain
a. Where do you usually buy online? (official website, domestic e-commerce website, cross-border
b. Where are the offline purchase channels? (brand boutiques, department stores, buying stores, or
others)
6. Do you value the brands of fashion products? Do you have a favorite fashion brand? Can you
70
a. Do you regret your purchase afterwards? If you do, what do you do with the products you have
purchased?
8. What comes up in your mind when you hear about the term “Sustainable Fashion”? Do you
a. Do you have any purchase experience? If yes, can you describe your purchase experience?
b. After purchasing, do you regret it? If so, what do you do with the product you purchased?
10. How did you first learn about the sustainable fashion brands you regularly buy? (Advertisements,
11. Would you buy a product from a fashion brand you regularly buy if it was labeled with
sustainable/recyclable features, but the price was higher than the average price of the brand's
individual products? (The design of the sustainable product is not very different from the normal
product.)
12. If the fashion brand you regularly buy chooses more sustainable raw materials, or suppliers,
13. If you buy sustainable products, what factors do you value most? (use of raw materials, product
design or materials, style, price, endorsers, favorite brands, ease of purchase, or other reasons.
14. When buying sustainable fashion products, do you consider the authenticity of the sustainable
71
a. Are there any advertisements or marketing campaigns for fashion products that have made a
lasting impression on you? (It can be the ad itself, the spokesperson, the novelty of the marketing
approach, or others.)
b. In recent years, there are many campaigns about sustainable fashion marketing, have you ever
paid attention to them? What is your attitude towards this? (Don't care; question; cause concern,
disgust.)
c. Have you ever had the urge to buy something because of sustainable marketing? If so, can you
16. Would you continue to buy sustainable fashion brands that you regularly buy if they were
17. Do you know of any sustainable fashion brands in the countries you have studied in? Have you
b. Did you find any sustainable fashion brands that you liked during your study abroad? Can you
c. Did your study abroad experience have an impact on your fashion purchases?
d. Did your study abroad experience give you a different perspective on sustainable fashion products?
72
Appendix 2 Consent Form
73