«KITTY» doll pattern

Author Julia Myazina -

https://instagram.com/julja_myzina
English translation by Serena Swartz -
https://instagram.com/swartz.serena/
 The Pattern of this crocheted doll is copyrighted and not
subject to distribution by third parties
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic/amigurumi ring;
CH – chain;
SC - single crochet;
DC - double crochet;
HDC - half double crochet;
INC - increase;
DEC – decrease (I use invisible decreases);
SL ST – slip stitch, connecting column;
FLO - front half loop (half loop closest to you);
BLO - back half loop (half loop farthest from you)
St – stitch, Sts - stitches

MATERIALS:
  copper electrical wire in a braid with a thickness of 1 mm
(you will need ≈ 0.4 m);
  PEKHORKA Yarn Openwork (original name “Пехорка
Ажурная”) color No. 68 "tea rose" one skein (50g / 280m);
  scissors;
  hook 0,6 mm;
  pliers;
  round-nose pliers;
  Filler;
  plaster / electrical tape / masking tape;
  skewers (for stuffing).

2
 Attention!!!
All crochet takes place on the wrong side, so the doll will come out neater,
especially face (if you do not know how to crochet on the wrong side,
When crocheting with the above materials, your doll will be about 13 cm.

Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the doll.
In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the
paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses.
This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day,
the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet
two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of
one leg, then set it aside and crochet several rows of the other leg).

In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This

crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting
with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be
very difficult to embroider a face. If you crocheted toys before and
noticed that your marker always goes vertically upward without
deviating along the axis, then you will need inevitably to make
offset loops and change the position of some increases
and decreases. This is due to the fact, that in this pattern
described below, marker deviates vertically and goes up
in a spiral. Also, due to the offset of the marker, some increases
and decreases may be located asymmetrically relative to other
increases and decreases. Therefore, this should not confuse you.

P.S. I use two size of the skewer (thick and thin). A thin skewer is more convenient
for stuffing small parts. Also, for your convenience, I advise you to break off the
tips of both skewers, so it will be easier to tamp the filler.

3
 ARMS
RIGHT ARM:
1) ch 3, in the 2nd loop from the hook, crochet 2 sl st. (2) -
little finger

2)4 ch, 3 sl st. (3) – ring finger

3)4 ch, 3 sl st (3) – middle finger
4)4 ch, 3 sl st. (3) – forefinger

4
 In the 5th row of these 4 fingers, you need to crochet 10 sc to continue
crocheting in a spiral. If you have any difficulty in this part, then watch a
similar video on the fingers and palm on my channel
https://youtu.be/3V03DC5r5Zs. If the link doesn’t work, then open it from a
different file called “LINKS”.
The 5th row should end above the index finger.

5) 10 sc (5 sc on one side of the fingers, turn crocheting and make another

5 sc on the other side of the fingers). (10) - put a marker, it should be above
the index finger.

6) 1 sc, (4 ch, 3 sl st in a chain), 9 sc. (10)

5
7) 1 sc, (3 sc on the finger), 9 sc. (13)

8) 13 sc. (13)

9) 3 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc. (9)

10) 9 sc. (9)

11) 1 inc, 8 sc. (10)

12) - 15) 10 sc. (10)

16) 8 sc, 3 sc in one st, 1 sc. (12) - "3 sc in one st"

- is the elbow and it should be above the little finger. If this is not
the case, then make offset sts.

17) 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 3 sc together, 1 sc. (9) - how to crochet sts.
"together” is shown in the pictures below.

PIC.
Рис. 1 PIC. 2

6
18) 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc. (11)

19) – 23) 11 sc. (11)

Work about 7 sc more to the middle of the future armpit, make

sl st, ch and cut the thread, pull end to tighten.

LEFT ARM:
1) 4 ch, 3 sl st. (3) – forefinger
2) 4 ch, 3 sl st. (3) – middle finger
3) 4 ch, 3 sl st. (3) – ring finger
4) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2) – little finger
5) Crochet 10 sc. around (10) – put a marker (it will be above the
little finger).
6) 4 sc, (4 ch, 3 sl st along the ch), 6 sc. (10)
7) 4 sc, crochet 3 sc across the thumb area, 6 sc. (13)

7
8) 13 sc. (13)

9) 1 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec, 3 sc. (9)

10) 9 sc. (9)

11) 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc. (10)

12) - 15) 10 sc. (10)

16) 3 sc in one st, 9 sc. (12)

17) 3 sc together, 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc. (9)

18) 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc. (11)

19) - 23) 11 sc. (11).

Work another 6 sc to the middle of the armpit, make sl st, ch, cut
off the thread, tighten the tip.

8
 LEGS
LEFT LEG:

The foot starts with crocheting the toes. The toes are crocheted in
the same way as the fingers. The foot video can be viewed here -->
hhttps://yadi.sk/i/cUTDCb3hwZlVSA .

1) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

2) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

3) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

4) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

5) 2 ch, 1 sl st. (1)

6) 11 sc. (11) – Crochet these row the same as if you were crocheting
the fingers according to the same principle as for the fingers of the
hand, 6 sc on one side of the fingers and 5 sc on the other side.

7) - 8) 11 sc. (11)

9) 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc in flo. (10)

HEEL: 1) 1 inc, 4 sc for blo, ch, turn. (6)

2) 4 sc ,ch. (4) - cut the thread.

9
 Attach the thread at the point indicated by the arrow in the photo
below and work along the heel: 3) 2 sc, 1sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 3 sc, sl st.
(9)

1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc

3 sc, sl st

2 sc
Cut the thread. Pull back 2 loops from the beginning of the 3rd
row of the heel and fasten the thread.

10) 1 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 4 in blo of 9th row, 4 sc. (14) – marker

11) 14 sc. (14)

12) 2 dec, 10 sc. (12)

Cut the wire 15 cm long. Strip one end of the wire from the
insolation by 4 cm, bend it and wrap it with a plaster, as in the photo
below.

10
13) 1 dec, 10 sc. (11)

14) 1 inc, 10 sc . (12)

15) 12 sc. (12)

16) 1 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc. (13)

17) 12 sc, 1 inc. (14)

18) 14 sc. (14)

19) 1 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc. (13)

20) 1 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc. (12) - stuff.

21) 6 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc. (14) - “2 inc” is the knee.

22) 1 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc (15)

23) 8 sc, dec, 5 sc. (14)

24) 13 sc, inc. (15)

25) 15 sc. (15)

26) 2 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc. (16)

11
27) - 31) 16 sc. (16)

Work offset 10 sc, so that the row ends a little further than mid-thigh
(closer to the knee). Cut the thread, fasten the tip. Stuff the leg.

RIGHT LEG:
1) 2 ch, 1 sl st. (1)

2) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

3) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

4) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

5) 3 ch, 2 sl st. (2)

6) 11 sc. (11) - crochet on the fingers, 5 sc on one side and 6 sc

on the other.

7) - 8) 11 sc. (11)

9) 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 in flo, 1 dec. (11)

HEEL: 1) 4 sc in blo, ch, turn. (4)

2) 4 sc, ch. (4) - cut the thread.

12
 Attach the thread at the same point as when crocheting the foot
for the left leg and crochet in the same way: 3) 2 sc, 1sc, 1 dec, 1
sc, 3 sc, sl st. (9).

Cut the thread. Pull back 2 loops from the beginning of the 3rd
row of the heel and fasten the thread in a new place.

10)1 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 4 in blo 9th row, 3sc. (14)

11) 14sc. (14)

12) 2 dec, 10 sc. (12)

13) 1 dec, 10 sc. (11)

14) 1 inc, 10 sc. (12)

Cut off the wire 13 cm, strip and bend, as for the previous leg.
Insert the wire into the foot. Fill the foot.

15) 12 sc. (12)

16) 1 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc. (13)

17) 5 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc. (14)

18) 14 sc. (14)

19) 2 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc. (13)

20) 2 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc. (12)

21) 9 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc. (14)

22) 2 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc. (15)

23) 11 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc. (14)

24) 6 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc. (15)

13
25) 15 sc. (15)

26) 3 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc. (16)

27) - 31) 16 sc. (16)

Crochet about 2 sc more so that the row ends short of mid-

thigh (a little closer to the knee). Do NOT cut the thread!

BODY
Ch 4 from the right leg, then continue crocheting along the left leg.

1) 9 sc, 3 inc in blo, 12 sc, 3 inc in blo, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc.
(48) – put a marker

2) 10 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) *3, 10 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc)*3, 16 sc. (54)

3) 47 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (55)

4) 1 sc, 1 inc, 53 sc. (56)

5) 56 sc. (56)

6) 10 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc)*2, skip 14 sts, (2 sc, 1 dec)*2, 16 sc. (38)

14
 Connect the wires from the legs with a plaster.

7) 38 sc. (38)

8) 10 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc)*2, 2 sc, (1 sc, 1 dec)*2, 14 sc. (34)

9) 34 sc. (34)

10) 11 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc. (32)

11) - 12) 32 sc.(32)

13) 27 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc. (31)

14) 31 sc. (31) - stuff.

15) 1 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc. (30)

16) 30 sc. (30)

17) 29 sc. (29) – 1 sc is not worked, put a marker.

18) 1 dec, 6 sc, 3 sc (left arm + body), 11 sc, 3 sc (right hand + body),
5 sc. (29) - how to crochet arm + body, see the photo below.

15
19) 7 sc, on the left shoulder (3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc), 11 sc, on the right
shoulder (3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc), 5 sc. (37)

Cut off 11 cm of the wire, bend it as in the photo below. Place the wire
in the arms so that it is between the two body wires. Twist or tape the
two body wires over the arms wire.

20) 10 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc. (33)

21) (4 sc, 1 dec) * 2, 11 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc. (29)

16
22) 6 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc, 4 dec, 3 sc. (21)
23) 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec. (17)
24) 6 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc. (15)
25) - 27) 15 sc. (15)

Stuff the upper torso, shoulders and neck.

28) 7 dec, 1 sc. (8)

29) 8 sc in blo (8)
30) - 40) 8 sc. (8) - head pin.

Cut the end of the thread, fasten it and hide it inside the head pin.

17
 head
If you have only one yarn, then I advise you to cut off a small piece of
yarn (15-20 cm) in advance. You will need this piece of yarn later when
crocheting nose.
Head crocheting starts with a set of 12 ch which you ring with a slip
stitch. Further crocheting happens in a spiral.

1) - 4) 12 sc. (12) - marker

5) The whole row for flo: (1 inc, 1 sc) * 3, sl st, chin-->(3 ch, 2 sc in
chain), continue from the same column as was done sl st -> (1 sc,
1inc) * 3 . (20)

6) (2 sc, 1 inc) * 3, on the chin --> (1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc), (1 inc, 2 sc)*3. (30)

7) 4 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) * 2, 1 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 1 sc, (1 inc,
2 sc) * 2, 1 inc, 3 sc. (34)

8) 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc,
1 sc. (40)

9) 6 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) * 2, 7 sc, (1 inc, 4 sc) * 2, 1 inc, 5 sc. (46)

10) 23 sc, 1 dec, 21 sc. (45)

11) 45 sc. (45)

18
12) 23 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc. (44)

In the next row, crocheting of the nose begins. Add some offset stitches
if the nose is off-center. How to crochet the nose can be seen in this video -
-> https://yadi.sk/i/n35vvG3vgu_e4A

13) 22 sc, (Remove the loop from the hook. Take the piece of thread that
you need to prepare at the beginning, fasten it in the 23rd st of this row,
and in the next stitch: (2 hdc, sl st). Hide the ends of the thread in then
return to that loop from the main thread), sl st, 2 sc across the nose, sl st,
19 sc. (45)

2 hdc, sl st

14) 45 sc. (45)

15) 16 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec, 11 sc. (38)

16) 10 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc. (40)

Tuck the first 4 rows inside the head, as shown in the photo below.

19
17) 40 sc. (40)

18) 17 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc. (42)

19) 11 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc. (44)

20) 2 sc, 1inc, 41 sc. (45)

21) - 25) 45 sc. (45)

26) (1 dec, 7 sc) * 5. (40)

27) 3 sc, (1 dec, 6 sc) * 4, 1 dec, 3 sc. (35)

28) (1 dec, 5 sc) * 5. (30)

29) 2 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) * 4, 1 dec, 2 sc. (25) - stuff.

30) (1 dec, 3 sc) * 5. (20)

31) 1 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) * 4, 1 dec, 1 sc. (15)

32) (1 dec, 1 sc) * 5. (10)

Fill. Cut the thread. Pull off the remaining hole with the rest of
the thread.
P. S. You can watch the following video about how to stuff the head correctly -->
https://yadi.sk/i/NbCbXqdvlXcSeQ

20
 При
If necessary,
необходимости
add fillerдобавить
through наполнитель
the hole at theчерез
bottomотверстие
of the head
внизу
to
straighten
голову, чтобы the chin
расправить
and cheeks.подбородок
If you stuffиthe
щеки.
head Если
too tightly,
Вы набьете
and the
nose
головуof слишком
the doll loses
плотно,
its contours,
и носикthen
куколки
just take
потеряет
it withконтуры,
your fingersто
and
простоpullвозьмите
it towardsего
you.
пальцами и потяните на себя.
Распределяем
Dispute the filler наполнитель по всей
all over the head голове
and give и придаем
the final contours,
окончательные контуры,where
crushing it with FINGERS приминая
there ее ПАЛЬЦАМИWith
is asymmetry. там,your
гдеfingers,
есть
асимметрия. Пальцами
press on the cheeks from же надавливаем
below на щечки
so that the chin снизу, чтобы
has a smooth contour.
подбородок имел плавный контур. Так же надавливаем пальцами
Also press on the area of future eyes with to flatten the head a little
на область
after будущих глаз, чтобы немного сплющить голову после
stuffing.
набивки.
After you
После have
того, какembroidered
Вы вышьетеyourлицоface and doneволосы,
и сделаете your hair, slide your
наденьте
head over
голову на the skewerчтобы
шпажку, to expose the hole for
освободить the neck для
отверстие pin so that your
шейного
head can slide
штырька, чтобы freely overсвободно
голова it. одевалась на него.

face
ВЫШИВКА
embroidery
ЛИЦА
МАТЕРИАЛЫ:
MATERIALS:
  Мулине:
Embroidery
2 оттенка
threads:
одного
2 shades
цвета для
of the
радужки
sameглаз,
colorчерный,
for the iris,
коричневый,
black, brown,розовый
pink (for(для
lips),губ), белый
white и цвет для
and eyebrow бровей;
color;
Ножницы;
  Scissors;
Иголки;
  Needles;
Маркер
  Fabric по ткани;
marker;
Клей В-6000
  B-6000 илиglue
or F-6000 F-6000
(sold (продается
in textile andвhandicraft
магазинах тканей и
stores).
рукоделия).

21
 If youуhave
Если Вас возникнут
any difficulties
сложности
with eyeс embroidery,
вышивкой глаз,
thenто
you
Выcan
watch
можетеa посмотреть
detailed video
подробное
by clickingвидео,
on theперейдя
link below
по ссылке ниже
https://youtu.be/ky03k33Yg8w .
Первым
The first step
делом
is to
необходимо
mark out where
разметить,
eyes, lips
где and
у Васeyebrows
будут глаза,
will be
located.
губы и брови.
To do this,
Для этого
use aиспользуем
special fabric
специальный
marker, whichмаркер
disappears
для by
itself
ткани,over
который
time. исчезает сам со временем.

Если
If youу have
Вас aбудет
problem проблема
with drawing
с тем,
symmetrical
чтобы eyes,
нарисовать
then you
симметричные
can use a stencil.глаза, то Вы
Just draw можете
an eye использовать
on a piece трафарет.
of paper or take any
Просто
eyes you like on the Internet, cut them along the contour, любые
нарисуйте на листе бумаги глаз или возьмите secure
понравившиеся глаза в Интернете, вырежьте их по контуру,
with needles on the head and circle with a marker.
закрепите иголками на голове и обведите маркером.
Заправьте
Thread oneодну нить
black черного
thread цвета
through theвneedle
иголкуand
и сложите
fold it inее
half.
пополам.
Begin the Вводим
stitch byиглу с затылка
pulling в центр
the needle fromзрачка.
the backВ of
центр же
the head
зрачка
into theвтыкаем
center ofострие иглыStick
the pupil. (это the
нужноtip для облегчения
of the needle into the
наматывания нити). Промазываем клеем зрачок и начинаем
center of the pupil (this is necessary to facilitate the winding of
наматывать и прижимать нить по спирали, как на фото ниже.
the thread). Glue the pupil with the B or F 6000 and begin to wind
the thread in a spiral, as in the photo below.

22
 Make several turns of the thread around the needle, filling the
space of the pupil. Then withdraw and move the needle to the other
pupil and repeat the same thing. It is better to make the eyes
parallel so that they turn out to be symmetrical.

Next, embroider the upper eyelid in one thread of brown or black color.
Withdrawal the thread at the outer corner of the eye. Glue the upper
contour of the eye (B or F6000), apply a thread and bring the needle
through the inner corner of the eye. If desired, make 1-2 more shorter
stitches to thicken the eyelid line.

23
 Change the thread to the color for the iris. Withdraw the needle at
the pupil on the border with the upper eyelid. Glue the area along the
contour of the pupil with glue and glue the thread.
Repeat the same actions several more times until the entire iris
area is filled.
P.S. NO need to coat with glue the entire iris area at once, but it is better
to do it in stages for each stitch separately.

Then take a thread of a lighter shade than the iris and make a color
transition on the iris. You can take 2 colors (for me it's light blue and white).
Also, the white thread is used to make "glare" on the pupil.

24
 Next, change the thread to white (fold the thread in half) and fill in
the area of the white of the eye, glueing each stitch with glue. Adjust
the stitch length if you want uneven protein thickness around the
outer and inner corners of the eye. Fill in the entire area of the
protein and repeat for the second eye.

Change the color of the thread again to which you embroidered the upper
eyelid (in one thread) and bring the lower eyelid, as in the photo below. Also
make a fold of the upper eyelid with the same thread. Do not forget use the
glue.

25
 Let's move on to lip embroidery. The video on lip and eyebrow
embroidery can also be seen on my channel by clicking on the link
https://youtu.be/M8StjXelIkA

First, embroider the upper lip outline (in one thread). To do this, on
its contour lay intermittent stitch.

Then close this line with the second stitch, threading the needle under
each stitch of the previous row.

26
 After that, we fill the resulting space with the satin stitch of chosen
color. If you want the doll’s lips to look more voluminous, then go
once again the surface on top.

Repeat the same actions for the lower lip.

If there is a gap between the lips, it can be filled with white thread to
simulate teeth.

27
 After taking a needle with brown thread and glue it between the
upper and lower lip (or do the stitches in the corners of the lips).

Change the thread to the color for the eyebrows (in one thread).
Remove the needle with a thread to the outer corner of the eyebrow.
Eyebrows can be traced in two ways. First, glue a thread like you did
with eyes. Second: embroider them similar to lips. The first method is
shown in the video, the link to which there is at the beginning of lip
embroidery. The second method is described below.
Similarly, first lay an intermittent seam on the contour of the
eyebrow. Then make the second seam and fill the eyebrow space with
a thread.

28
 EARS
LEFT EAR:
In MR: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc. (5) - Leave the end of the thread 5-7 cm.
RIGHT EAR:
In MR: 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (5) - Leave the end of the thread 5-7 cm.

Mark with an air erasable marker where the ears will be fastened.
Fix the ears with the end of the thread, which were left at crocheting
(nodules are made a little further on the back of the head, so they can
be hidden under the hair). Take the sewing thread in the color of the
body and additionally stitch the ears to better fix them, and that they
do not move.

29
 EYELASHES (step 1)
MATERIALS:
  Embroidery threads or sewing threads (the color you want to
see the doll's eyelashes);
  Scissors;
  Tailor's pins;
  Acrylic varnish or PVA glue;
  Brush (or something other than you will apply varnish on the
eyelashes);
  A rod from a helium pen or a wooden skewer.

The eyelashes will be complete in 2 stages. The first stage is more

convenient to perform before fixing the hair, the second stage is performed
after fixing the hair.

You can see how eyelashes are made in the same video as eye
embroidery. However, in that video I don't use tailor’s pins to fix strands. The
technique of making eyelashes with pins, described below in this pattern, I
like more with its result.

30
 Take the thread, which you will make eyelashes, thread it in the
needle (in one thread), tie the knot at the end of the thread. You can
also do eyelashes and in two threads, if you want thicker eyelashes.
Stretch the thread through the back of the head to the upper eyelid
with the knot. Cut off the thread to keep the tip 5 cm (or more). So it
will be more convenient after splitting the eyelashes.

Repeat the same actions several more times for one and the other
eye. In the same way you can make eyelashes on the lower eyelid
eyes.

At this stage leave the eyelashes in this state. It is better to finish the
eyelashes after the hair is glued, otherwise the eyelashes will be
closed.

31
 MAKING AND FIXING HAIR
Materials :
  Scissors;
  "PEHORKA baby novelty" yarn (original name is “ПЕХОРКА
детская новинка”) or any other 100% acrylic yarn (you can use
several colors of yarn);
  fabric marker;
  Hair iron;
  Needle;
  Gloves;
  The skewers of different thicknes, brushes for drawing are also
of different thickness .

You can watch a video on making and fixing acrylic hair by clicking
on the following link --> https://youtu.be/wH9E0LE_SdY.

P.S. I would also like to note that acrylic hair should be used only for interior dolls, as
they require special care.
Take a piece of thick cardboard (you can take a book for example)
about 8 cm wide and start winding yarn around it. If you have chosen
yarn of the same brand as indicated in the list of materials, then you
will need about a third of the whole skein.

32
 Then cut the yarn wrapped around the cardboard on one side.
Thus, you will receive pieces of yarn 16 cm long.

33
 Separate 3 pieces of thread from the prepared bundle of yarn, fold them
in half and form a st, as shown in the photo below and put on a skewer (this
can be a roll stick or a pencil, for example).

I do not recommend stringing thicker bundles of yarn, as it will be

very inconvenient to work with them later. You will need 40-50
strands in total.
This is what you should get ↓

34
 With the help of a slicker, begin to comb out the yarn. This should
be done gradually, moving up from the very tips. If you start combing
the yarn directly from the top (from the skewer) the hair will lose
some of its length.
Periodically remove the combed yarn from the slicker so that it
does not interfere with the process.

Comb out the yarn until you reach the knots on the skewer.
Then take a hair straightener and run over the yarn to straighten it.
Stretch the yarn until it is smooth and shiny.
P.S. Adjust the temperature on the iron to avoid burning your hair. I don't set the
temperature higher than 190 ° C (374° F) .

35
 Then remove all of the yarn from the skewer. Take one bunch of yarn
and cut in half the st holding the yarn on the skewer. Take the slicker
again and comb out the edge of the strand.

Iron on this end of the yarn. Repeat for all bundles of yarn. Then
take PVA glue and a brush and coat the edges of all the strands. It is
worth smearing the edge that you combed out in the second place.

We leave the strands to dry completely or dry them with a hairdryer to

speed up the process st.

36
 After the glue is dry, trim the edges of the strands, leaving a glue layer of
only 2 mm.

Proceed to gluing the strands to the head. Mark the hairline on

the doll's head with a marker. Glue the first row of hair along this line.

37
 Next, fill in the remaining space of the head with hair, moving up
from the back of the head in rows.

Do not glue the rows too close to each other, as you will end up
with too thick and unruly hair. Glue the seam of the previous row
with glue so that the hair of the next row covers the transition
between the rows.
When you get to the top of your head, make a row or two in a
circle.

38
 Then draw a parting line. From the parting line, you will glue the hair
to the right and left sides.

Stick on hair from the parting line, as shown in the right photo
above. Then turn all the strands to the opposite side. And repeat the
same for the second half of the crown. Begin to glue the hair again
from the parting.

39
 Turn over the glued strands on the second half of the crown and
press them to the head. Add glue as needed to hide the transitions
between rows of hair.
After the glue dries, comb your hair. At the first combing, a lot of
hairs may fall out, but you should not be intimidated by this. After that,
it is better to comb the hair with a regular, not thick comb, and not with
a slicker, so as not to tear the hair.

40
 EYELASHES (STEP 2)
After attaching the hair, we proceed to the second stage of creating
the eyelashes.
Take a rod from a ink pen or a wooden skewer. Cut off 4 pieces of 2
cm. We put these pieces under the eyelashes (this is necessary in order
to give the eyelashes a bend and so that they do not stick to the head).
Then take acrylic varnish (PVA glue or transparent nail polish) and a
brush. Using a brush, apply varnish to the eyelashes (but not to the
entire length, but only to the one you plan to leave). Soak the lashes at
the base thoroughly. Stretch and secure each lash strand with tailor's
pins so that the strands do not touch each other, otherwise they may
stick together.

Wait until the eyelashes are completely dry or blow dry.

P.S. To prevent the eyelashes from sticking to the rollers and then it would be easier to separate
the eyelashes from the roller, you can slightly scroll the rollers.

41
 Then remove all pins and remove the rollers from under the lashes. Use
scissors to trim off excess lashes. If some eyelashes are still flattened,
then just wind them on a crocheting needle or hook. If a film of glue
remains between the eyelashes, gently remove it with tweezers.

42
 SHADING/TINTING
Moving on to the final part is the shading of the face and body.
You can use pastels or eyeshadow for it. I use the regular palette of
eyeshadow for shading dolls, as shadows have a large selection of tones
and weak pigmentation (you can not be afraid to overdo it with the tone).
And pastel in turn I use to tint details of clothing, as it has more saturated
and persistent shades.

You will also need brushes of different sizes and matte acrylic varnish to
cover the paintings, to consolidate the shading.

If you do not plan to fix the shading of face and body after, you can apply
more pigment. Well, if you will use varnish, the pigment should be applied
less, because of the varnish makes it a little bit darker.

43
I recommend shading the following areas of the face:
· Cheeks;
· Incotruding part of the chin;
· Ears;
· Hair growth line;
· nose bridge;
· Under the lower eyelid;
· Over the upper eyelid;
· Above the upper lip;
· Under the lower lip;
· In the corners of the lips;
· Between the lips;
· Under the nose;
· Under the eyebrows (you can also tone the tip a little
eyebrows to make there a smooth transition of color);
· You can also to shad the area of the iris under the upper
eyelid, if suddenly your doll came out with a wide open
(surprised) eyes.

For the body, I also recommend to apply the tone, as it will

make more exincesl stive curves of the doll.

The tone is applied to the following zones:

· Elbows and its bends;

· hands;
· palms;
· armpits;
· Neck;
· collarbone;
· The belly button;
· The groin area;
· Knees and bend under the knees;
· Ankles;
· Toes.

If you want your doll not to lose its tint (especially if the doll is a
play doll, not an collector doll), then the places where the tone
is applied should be covered with acrylic varnish. The varnish
should be applied with a hammering motion.

44
 Especially carefully it is necessary to apply varnish on the face,
otherwise the tinting may "float". While you are applying the polish on
your face, you can straighten the nose again with your fingers and give
the desired shape (before the polish dries). You can also varnish the
pin on which the head is put on to make it stiffer.

It is imperative to varnish the doll's fingers so that they become

thin, neat and do not curl. To do this, generously apply varnish to the
fingers, as well as the entire palm of the doll. Let the varnish soak for 5
minutes. Then press each finger of the doll with round-nose pliers or
your own fingers (see photo below). We also give the shape of the palm,
without waiting for the varnish to dry. To do this, press the doll's thumb
to the center of the palm.

Also, with the help of varnish, you can shape the toes on the feet.

45
 PANTIES
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  White embroidery threads;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the ends
of the threads);
  hook 0.6 mm.

Crochet in 2 threads for embroidery. Crochet 14 CH.

1) 13 SC, CH, turn. (13)

2) 1 DEC, 9 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (11)

3) 1 DEC, 7 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (9)

4) 1 DEC, 5 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (7)

5) 1 DEC, 3 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (5)

6) 1 DEC 1 SC, 1 DEC CH, turn. (3)

7) 1 SC, skip one ST, 1 SC, CH, turn. (2)

8) - 12) 2 SC, CH, turn. (2)

13) 2 INC, CH, turn. (4)

46
14) 1 INC, 2 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (6)

15) 1 INC, 4 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (8)

16) 1 INC 6 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (10)

17) 1 INC, 8 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (12)

18) 1 INC, 10 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (14)

19) 1 INC, 12 SC, 1 INC, CH, turn. (16)

20) 1 INC, 14 SC, 1 INC, CH. (16)

After the 20th row, do not turn. Crochet 10 CH.

BACK PART

FRONT PART

Then we continue crocheting, but along the front of the panties.

Crochet 13 SC, 10 CH. Connect a chain of sts on the back of the
panties with a connecting post.

Make a CH for lifting and crochet the last row in a circle.

21) 18 SC, 10 SC in the chain, 13 SC, 10 SC in the chain, sl st. (51)

Then cut off the thread. Next, you need to work the edges of the
panties to make them look neat (the edges are indicated by the red
line in the photo below).

47
 Decorate the panties at our own discretion.

RIMMED EARS
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Embroidery threads 2 colors: black and pink;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the ends
of the threads);
  Needle;
  Wire 3 mm thick;
  Yarn "IRIS" black;
  hook 0.6 mm.

48
 PART1
Crochet in 2 pink embroidery threads. Crochet 8 CH.

1) - 3) 7 SC, CH, turn. (7)

4) 1 DEC, 3 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (5) 5) 5 SC, CH, turn. (five)

6) 1 DEC, 1 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (3)

7) 3 SC "in one vertex", CH. (1) - do not cut the thread, how to crochet
sts "in one vertex" is shown in the pictures below.

Рис. 1
PIC 1. Рис. 2
PIC 2.
Work the entire perimeter of the part with single crochets with
the same thread color. Then the thread can be secured and cut off.

49
 Work the second piece in the same pattern for the second ear. Then
change the thread to black and work the perimeter of the part again,
but this time work only at the front half st, so the transition between the
two colors will look neater.

PART 2
Crochet 10 CH

11) - 3) 9 SC, CH, turn. (9)

4) 1 DEC ,5 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (7) 5) -6) 7 SC, CH, turn. (7)

7) 1 DEC, 3 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (five)

8) 1 DEC, 1 SC, 1 DEC, CH, turn. (3)

9) 3 SC "in one vertex", CH. (1) - do not cut the thread.

Work the perimeter of the part with the same thread. Leave the tip of
30 centimeters for stitching the details.

50
 Work the second piece in the same pattern. Then thread the left end of
the thread into the needle and sew part 1 and part 2 together for both ears.

Next, cut off 9 cm of wire (the length of the wire depends on the
circumference of the doll's head). Take the black IRIS yarn (or whatever is
available). Glue the wire with glue and wind yarn over the entire length of the
wire (see photo below).

Then sew the ears to the wire and the bezel is ready.

SOCKS
Materials:
  Scissors;
  Sewing Threads;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the
ends of the threads);
  Hook 0.6 mm.

51
 Crochet 22 CH and close in the ring.

1) - 6) 22 SC, SL ST, CH. (22)

Cut the thread. Count 6 STS to the right of the end of the 10th
row and fasten the thread at a new point.

heel: 1) - 4) 12 SC, CH, turn. (12) - cut the thread.

Fasten the thread at the point indicated in the photo (you need
to count 4 sts from the right or left edge of the heel)

5) - 8) 4 SC, CH, turn. (4)

52
Sew the edges of the heel.

Fasten the thread on the heel at the point indicated by the

arrow in the photo above and continue crocheting in a circle.

7) - 14) 22 SC, SL ST, CH. (22)

15) 1 DEC, 3 SC, (1 DEC, 4 SC) * 2, 1 DEC, 3 SC, SL ST, CH.

(eighteen)

16) 1 DEC, 2 SC, (1 DEC, 3 SC) * 2, 1 DEC, 2 SC, SL ST, CH. (14)

17) 1 DEC, 1 SC, (1 DEC, 2 SC) * 2, 1 DEC, 1 SC, SL ST. (10)

Cut the thread. Pull off the remaining hole with the rest of the
thread.

53
 DRESS
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Embroidery threads 3 colors: black, white and gray;
  glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the ends
of the threads);
  hook 0.6 mm;
  buttons 3 mm - 7 pcs.

Crochet in 2 threads of gray color. Crochet 25 CH. All crocheting

takes place in rotary rows.

1) (3 SC, 3 SC in one st) * 2, 8 SC, (3 SC in one ST, 3 SC) * 2, CH,

turn. (32)

2) 32 SC, CH, turn. (32)

3) 4 SC, 3 SC in one st, 5 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 10 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 5

SC, 3 SC in one ST, 4 SC, CH, turn. (40)

4) 40 SC, CH, turn. (40)

5) 5 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 7 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 12 SC, 3 SC in one ST,

7 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 5 SC, CH, turn.
(48)

54
6) 48 SC, CH, turn. (48)

7) 6 SC, 3 SC in one st, 9 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 14 SC, 3 SC in one ST, 9

SC, 3 SC in one ST, 6 SC, CH, turn. (56)

8) 56 SC, CH, turn. (56)

9) 7 SC, 5 CH, 13 sts skip, 16 SC, 5 CH, 13 STS skip, 7 SC, CH, turn.
(40)

10) 40 SC, CH, turn. (40)

11) 9 SC, 1 INC, 20 SC, 1 INC, 9 SC, CH, turn. (42)

12) 42 SC, CH, turn. (42)

13) 10 SC, 1 INC, 20 SC, 1 INC, 10 SC, CH, turn. (44)

14) 44 SC, CH, turn. (44)

15) 11 SC, 1 INC, 20 SC, 1 INC, 11 SC, CH, turn. (46)

16) 46 SC, CH, turn. (46)

17) 12 SC, 1 INC, 20 SC, 1 INC, 12 SC, CH, turn. (48)

18) 48 SC, CH, turn. (48)

19) 13 SC, 1 INC, 20 SC, 1 INC, 13 SC, CH, turn. (50)

20) 50 SC, CH, turn. (50)

21) 11 SC, 1 INC, 26 SC, 1 INC, 11 SC, CH, turn. (52)

22) 52 SC, CH, turn. (52)

23) 12 SC, 1 INC, 26 SC, 1 INC, 12 SC, CH, turn. (54)

24) 54 SC, CH, turn. (54)

55
25) 11 SC, 1 INC, 30 SC, 1 INC, 11 SC, CH, turn. (56)

26) 56 SC, CH, turn. (56)

27) 12 SC, 1 INC, 30 SC, 1 INC, 12 SC, CH, turn. (58)

28) 58 SC. (58)

Without tearing off the thread, work the edge of the dress: (8 CH, 6 SC)
* 4, 8 CH. These will be the buttonholes. If you use a different fastener, then
the STS can be omitted.

You can also work the opposite edge of the dress to make it look
tidier. And also sew buttons on the opposite edge.

Then work the collar with white thread according to the pattern
below.

COLLAR:
1) 24 CH, 3 SC, 4 HDC, 3 DC, 1 SC, 1 SL ST, 1 SC, 3 DC, 4 HDC, 3 SC,
CH, turn. (23)

2) 4 SC, 4 HDC, 2 DC, 1 SC, 1 SL ST, 1 SC, 2 DC, 4 HDC, 4 SC. (23)

Cut the thread, leaving the tip for sewing on the collar.

56
 Crochet the base for the decorative buttons according to the
following pattern: 11CH, 10 sc (on the one side of the chains), 2 CH,
10 sc (on the second side of the chains), 2 CH, sl st.

Then, using the same white thread, crochet the ruffles. Crochet
151 CH.

RuffelEs:
1) - 5) 150 sc, CH, turn. (150)

After that you change the thread color to black.

pocket:
1) 7 CH, 6 sc, CH, turn. (6)

2) - 3) 6 sc, CH, turn. (6)

4) 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, CH, turn. (4)

5) 2 dec, CH. (2)

Without cutting the thread, you should crochet around the

perimeter of the pocket with single crochets.

Then you should sew all the elements to the dress, as you can
see in the photo below. You also sew 2 black buttons on the base
under the collar. Additionally, you can decorate the dress with
decorative stitching.

57
 SWEATER
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Embroidery threads one color;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the ends of
the threads);
  Hook 0.6 mm;
  Thermal transfer sticker;
  Buttons 3 mm - 2 pcs.

Crochet in rotary rows in 2 threads. Crochet 46 CH.

1) - 2) 45 SC, CH, turn. (45)

58
3) 5 SC, 8 CH, skip 10 STS, 15 SC, 8 CH, skip 10 STS, 5 SC, CH, turn. (41)

4) 9 SC, 1 INC, 21 SC, 1 INC, 9 SC, CH, turn. (43)

5) 43 SC, CH, turn. (43)

6) 10 SC, 1 INC, 21 SC, 1 INC, 10 SC, CH, turn. (45)

7) 45 SC, CH. (45) - cut the thread

Fasten the thread at the point indicated by the arrow in the photo
above. Crochet a sleeve. In order for the pattern to be the same
with the base of the sweater, it is better to crochet the sleeve also in
rotary rows (but you can simply crochet in a circle, if it is more
convenient for you).

SLEEVE:
1) - 15) 28 SC, SL ST, CH, turn. (28)

You can make the sleeves longer or shorter, at your discretion.

Cut the thread and repeat for the second sleeve.
Fasten the thread on one edge of the jacket and make button sts
according to the scheme: 8 CH, 6 SC, 8 CH. Sew buttons on the
opposite end of the court.

59
 Next, take the thermal transfer sticker and transfer the drawing onto the
jacket using an iron, after covering the jacket with the sticker with a thin
cloth. Peel off the top film of the sticker after it has cooled down.

This sticker can even be washed (but not rubbed when washing).
If you do not have stickers, then the jacket can be decorated with
beads, rhinestones or embroidery.

SKIRT
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Embroidery threads one color 3 skeins;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Moment crystal (for gluing the ends of
the threads);
  Hook 0.6 mm;
  Buttons 3 mm - 3 pcs.

60
Crochet in 2 threads in rotary rows. Crochet 160 CH.

1) 160 SC, CH, turn. (160)

2) 12 SC, 1 INC, (25 SC, INC) * 5, 17 SC, CH, turn. (166)

3) - 4) 166 SC, CH, turn. (166)

5) 9 SC, (1 INC, 26 sc) * 5, 1 INC, 21 SC, CH, turn. (172)

6) - 7) 172 SC, CH, turn. (172)

8) 13 SC, 1 INC, (27 SC, 1 INC) * 5, 18 SC, CH, turn. (178)

9) - 10) 178 SC, CH, turn. (178)

11) 10 SC, (1 INC, 28 SC) * 5, 1 INC, 22 SC, CH, turn. 184)

12) - 13) 184 SC, CH, turn. (184)

14) 14 SC, 1 INC, (29 SC, 1 INC) * 5, 19 SC, CH, turn. (190)

15) - 16) 190 sc, CH, turn. (190)

17) 11 SC, (1 INC, 30 sc) * 5, 1 INC, 23 SC, CH, turn. (196)

18) - 19) 196 SC, CH, turn. (196)

20) 15 SC, 1 INC, (31 SC, 1 INC) * 5, 20 SC, CH, turn. (202)

21) 202 SC, CH. (202) - cut the thread.

61
 Form pleats on the skirt. To do this, attach the thread at the
beginning of the first row of the skirt and go along the entire length
of the row with single crochets, simultaneously forming folds and
crocheting them.

To make a fold on the skirt, crochet 3 layers of canvas at once,

as shown in the photo above. The folds can be formed in one
direction or the folds can be alternated to the right and left. If you
want the skirt belt to be wider, then at the end of the row, turn and
crochet another row in the opposite direction.

After you crochet a skirt belt, do not cut off the thread, but
crochet button sts on one edge: (8 CH. 6 SC) * 2, 8 CH. Sew
buttons on the second edge.

62
 SANDALS
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Thick cardboard;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Crystal Moment;
  Natural suede (can be replaced with thick felt or foamiran);
  Rubber sole for doll shoes;
  Round headed stud 3.5 mm - 4 pcs;
  Metal rings 5 mm - 2 pcs.

Transfer the following pattern on a piece of paper at the correct scale

for the size of your doll's foot.

2
4

63
 Cut out all the pieces of the pattern from the appropriate materials.
Namely: part 1 - cardboard is dense, part 2 - rubber sole, part 3 and 4 -
suede.
Proceed to gluing the parts. First of all, glue part 3 on the insole (part 1).
Begin to glue from toe to heel. At the heel, trim off the excess length and
glue the edges seam to seam.

Then glue the sole (part 2).

Next, glue or sew a strap on the side of the sandal (detail 4). And on the
central strap make two holes.

64
 HOLES

Insert the leg of the round headed stud into the upper hole and
bend this strap inward. Thread the strap into the resulting st. Then
pass the leg of the round headed stud through the second hole and
fix it with a hat.

Next, you need to make a clasp. Clasps can be made in different

ways. See descriptions below.
The first version of the clasp is made of a metal ring and a round
headed stud. Fix the ring at the end of the strap, and insert the cap
into the side surface of the sandal.

RING
R O U N D
HEADED
STUD

65
 For the second version of the fastener, you will need a thin stiff wire
and round nose pliers. Make a small ring out of the wire. Attach a
hook to the end of the strap and sew a ring to the side of the sandal.

RING HOOK

Additionally, you can glue a thin strip of leather around the

perimeter of the sandals (along the sole) to make the sandals look
neat.

66
 RABBIT TOY
MATERIALS:
  Scissors;
  Glue F-6000 (B-6000) or Crystal Moment;
  Embroidery threads 3 colors: purple;
  Filler;
  Needle;
  Hook 0,6 mm.

BODY:
Crochet in 2 purple threads.

1) In MR 6 SC, sl st, CH. (6)

2) (1 INC, 1 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (9)

3) (1 INC, 2 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (12)

4) (1 INC, 3 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (15)

5) (1 INC, 4 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (18)

6) (1 INC, 5 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (21)

7) (1 INC, 6 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (24)

67
8) 24 SC, SL ST, CH. (24)

9) (1 INC, 7 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (27)

10) 27 SC, SL ST, CH. (27)

11) (1 INC, 8 SC) * 3, SL ST, CH. (30)

12) - 15) 30 SC, sl st, CH. (30)

In the last 15th row, do not make an air st at the end, but make
another connecting column to the next st, and only then make an
air lifting st. Next, we will crochet the legs

LEG:
The legs are also crocheting in a circle, i.e. crochet the first row
and wash it with a connecting post.

1) - 3) 13 SC, SL ST, CH. (13)

4) 6 SC, 1 SC, SL ST, CH. (7) - cut the thread, pull off the remaining
hole.

Step 2 STS from this leg and work the second leg.

Stuff the torso and legs tightly through the remaining hole, and
then sew it.

68
EARS:
1) In MR 5 SC, sl st, CH. (5)

2) 5 INC, SL ST, CH. (10)

3) (1 INC, 4 SC) * 2, SL ST, CH. (12)

4) - 6) 12 SC, SL ST, CH. (12)

7) (1 DEC, 4 SC), SL ST, CH. (10) 8) - 9) 10 SC, SL ST, CH. (10)

10) (1 DEC, 3 SC), SL ST, CH. (8) 11) - 12) 8 SC, SL ST, CH. (8)

13) (1 DEC, 2 SC), SL ST, CH. (6)

Fold the ear in half and crochet together with three single
crochets. Cut the thread, leaving the tip for sewing. Work the other
ear.

ARMS:
1) In MR 5 SC, sl st, CH. (5)
2) - 4) 5 SC, sl st, CH. (5)

Fold the foot in half and crochet 2 SC. Cut the thread, leave the tip
for sewing. Work the second leg.

69
 Sew on the ears and arms to the body. Embroider the muzzle. On
request, make decorative seams (patches).

70
71
72