Mahindra

SCORPIO REFRESH GASOLINE
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M Hawk 2.2 L
Air Intake System
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NGT 530R 2WD
NGT 530R 4WD
* Automatic Transmission
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* Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Wheels & Tires
Headlamp Aiming/Alignment
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* If Applicable
M-Hawk 2.2 L GASOLINE
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine
Specifications & Wear Data
Sealant Application Pattern
Tightening Torques
Tightening Sequence
List of the MST
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The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes
introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of
whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of © 2010 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Repair Manual MAN-000XX
Scorpio Gasoline March 2010/Rev 1
Description
The 2.2-liter Turbocharged and intercooled Multi point fuel injection gasoline
engine with a bore 85 and stroke of 96 mm develop 103 KW(140 HP) at 3500 RPM
and a torque of 290 Nm at 1800 RPM.
A waste gate turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bars. The compressed air is
cooled by the charged intercooler which is mounted upstream of the
turbocharger. The cooled air enters the inlet manifold’s plenum and it enters the
Aluminium cylinder head through the inlet valves having an angle.
The piston features hemispherical type combustion chamber and having ferrous
ring insert in the Top ring groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top ring is
asymmetrical barrel face and with CKS coating and keystone shape. The 2ndring
is taper faced. The 3rd is conformable Oil Ring.
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The

small end of the connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the mass as
well as to ensure higher loading. The crankshaft is induction hardened with the
filets hardened & ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit ring gear and also a ball
bearing to act as pilot for the gearbox input shaft. The front end is having a
rubber molded dampener pulley
There are two overhead camshafts (Inlet and exhaust). The valves are actuated
through HLA & RFF (hydraulic tappets). There are four valves per cylinder. This
ensures that the charge fill as well as the purging is optimum.

Trouble Shooting
Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic procedures
may be necessary for specific engine complaints that cannot be isolated using
only the diagnostic chart.
Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the following

diagnostic.
Cylinder compression pressure Test

The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose several
engine malfunctions.
Before carrying out the compression test ensures that the battery is in good
working condition. Otherwise the indicated pressures may not be valid for
diagnostic purpose.
Remove all the spark plugs.

Fit the dummy spark plug (MST Tool) and connect it with the compression
gauge.
Disconnect the engine RPM sensor or phase sensor connector so that the
engine does not start.
Crank the engine.
Note the compression value should be 15 bars.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.
Refer to the Specification for the value.
Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of
coolant and engine misfiring, overheating and poor fuel economy.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

A. Between adjacent cylinders
Or
B. Between a cylinder and adjacent water jacket.
Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by Loss of power and
/or engine misfiring.
Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage results in
coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant indicate leakage in engine
water jackets.

Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage
between cylinders will be result in drop of compression pressure by nearly 50 to
70% in the affected cylinders.
Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

• Remove the Degassing tank cap.
• Warm up the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat
opens.
• If large combustion /combustion pressure leak exist, bubbles will be visible in
coolant.
• If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the
cooling circuit. If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the water
jackets then the tester’s needle will pulsate with every combustion stroke of
the cylinder.

Symptom Causes Remedial action

Engine will 1. Air intake obstructed 9 Replace the element.
not start & 9 Check for free
emit black operation of
smoke Turbocharger.
9 Replace spark plugs

2. Defective spark plug
9 Check compression
3. Lack of compression.
pressure.- if low check
for valve seat ,rings &
liner wear
4. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
failure head gasket.
9 Check timing chain.
5. Engine timing- Valve 9 Refer diagnostic
manual.
Noisy engine 1. Faulty Spark Plug. 9 Replace Spark Plug
& black
smoke. 2. Loose main bearings 9 Tighten the main
bearings.
3. Broken parts 9 Inspect and replace
the broken parts.
4. Defective spark plug 9 Replace spark plugs
Engine does 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Replace air cleaner

not give full element if required.
power. 2. Clogged fuel filter. 9 Replace filter.
3. Defective spark plugs 9 Replace spark plug
4. Air leaks in pressure line 9 Replace spark plugs

after turbocharger( Turbo
to intercooler, intercooler 9 Plug the leaks, replace
& intercooler to throttle hose or clip if required.
body)
5. Fuel return pipe to tank 9 Locate the kink/block

blocked. in return pipe and
rectify.
6. Valve leak 9 Check the

compression, re-lap if
required.
7. Turbocharger damaged. 9 Get the Turbocharger
repaired at authorized
TEL dealer.

8. Gas leaks between 9 Replace gaskets.

exhaust manifold &
cylinder head.
9. Leaking exhaust system. 9 Tighten the TC
mounting bolts.
Replace gasket if
required.
10. Exhaust gas leak 9 Correct the leak

between turbo &
manifold.
11. Fuels supply line kink 9 Remove the restriction.

creating restriction.
12. Compression leak. 9 Check compression

pressure.
13. Jammed piston rings 9 Replace piston rings.
14. Vacuum leak to the turbo 9 Check the vacuum

actuator leak and rectify. Please
note that the waste
gate operation is
sensitive to vacuum
leak.
Noisy engine 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder

& high smoke defective. head gasket.
(White/ Grey) 2. Worn out or damaged 9 Lap the valve seats or
valve seats. regrind.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Check for hoses,

replace air cleaner
element.
2. Defective injectors 9 Check injectors.
3. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks

between Turbocharger
to intercooler,
intercooler &
intercooler to throttle
body.
4. Restricted exhaust system. 9 Remove restriction or

replace parts.

5. Gas leak between 9 Replace manifold

exhaust manifold & gasket or parts.
cylinder head. 9 Overhaul engine.
6. Worn out rings, liners &
valves.
Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum line 9 Check the vacuum line
consumption hoses. from the vacuum
pump and check for
leaks, crack. Replace
cracked hoses.
2. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

element.
3. Restriction in air intake to 9 Locate & remove

compressor duct. restriction.
4. Restrictions in 9 Remove the restriction

turbocharger oil drain in the drainpipe.
line.
5. Restriction in crankcase 9 Check the crankcase

breather. ventilation & rectify.
6. Damaged oil separator 9 Replace the oil

separator
7. Turbocharger damaged. 9 Change oil, filter,

service the
Turbocharger & use
recommended oils &
drain intervals. Follow
the recommended
procedure while
shutting down.
9 Repair Turbocharger.
8. Worn out rings, liners, and 9 Overhaul engine.

valves.
9. External oil leaks 9 Stop the external oil

leakages.
9 Change the vacuum
hoses.
10. Leakages through inlet 9 Change the manifold

manifold mounting face gasket or replace the
allowing dust entry. manifold.

11. Bend/kink in any of the oil 9 Remove the bend or

return pipe’s/vacuum kinks.
hoses.
12. Defective vacuum pump. 9 Replace the vacuum

pump.
Blue smoke 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

element.
2. Restriction in air intake to 9 Locate & remove

compressor duct. restriction.
3. Air leak between the 9 Locate the leaks,

Turbocharger to intake change hose or clamp
manifold. if required.
4. Excess oil. 9 Correct the oil level.
5. Wear in valve seal. 9 Check the valve stem

seals, replace if
required.
6. Wear in piston rings & 9 Check the compression

liner. pressure, replace rings
& liners.
7. TC oil seal leaks 9 Check the

Turbocharger if
defective get it
attended.
White smoke. 1. Improper timing 9 Check sprockets &

chain for wear. Rectify
2. Defective cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder

gasket. head gasket.
3. Restriction in fuel supply 9 Remove the restrictions.
Starter will 1. Electrical complaints. 9 Refer the electrical

not work or section.
only cranks
slightly 2. Check water level. 9 If water level reduced
drastically then check
for hydrostatic lock.

3. Hydrostatic lock 9 Remove the water in

the cylinder and find
the cause for water
entry.
Starter will 1. Weak battery. 9 Check the battery

not crank the specific gravity
engine. 2. Corroded or loose 9 Clean & tighten battery
battery connection connections
3. Faulty starter 9 Repair starter
4. Improper earthing 9 Rectify earthing
Noisy valves 1. Thin or diluted oil. Change oil.

9
2. Low oil pressure. Check the oil level.
9
3. Worn HLA Replace the HLA.
9
4. Worn valve guides. Replace
9 the valve
5. Excessive run out of guides.
valves seats 9 Grind valve seats and
6. Oil thickening valves.
9 Replace oil & find the
reasons of thickening,
7. Aeration in oil rectify.
9 Follow the de-aeration
procedure.
Oil pressure 1. Low oil level. 9 Check engine oil level.

drop
2. Defective oil pressure 9 Install new sensor.
sensor.
3. Clogged oil filter. 9 Replace filter.
4. Clogged oil cooler 9 Clean the oil cooler.
5. Clogged oil strainer. 9 Clean the strainer.
6. Pressure relief valve in oil 9 Clean the valve & bore

filter bracket stuck. and assemble.
7. Oil leaks- internal 9 Check the leakage

between the block &
front cover or any of
the MOG plugs
8. Worn parts in oil pump. 9 Replace the worn parts

or pump.

9. Excessive bearing 9 Check bearing

clearances clearances.
10. Thin or diluted oil. 9 Change oil to correct

viscosity.
11. Oil pump relief valve 9 Remove the valve,
stuck. inspect, clean & refit.
12. Oil pump suction tube 9 Remove sump, inspect

loose, bent or cracked. the parts & replace.
13. Sealant the 9 Check for sealant at

blocking
suction the face of the suction
pipe.
14. Oil pump cover warped 9 Install new pump.
or cracked
Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals 9 Replace seals.
2. Misaligned or 9 Replace gasket.

deteriorated gaskets.
3. Loose fastener, broken or 9 Tighten fastener

porous metal parts 9 Repair or replace.

Care of the System

The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following
maintenance is carried out as per the schedule without fail.
Accessory Belt: The belt system employs an auto tensioner. Hence no tension
adjustment is required for both the drives. (Alternator and water pump)
Air cleaner: The element should be replaced at every 40,000 kms or when red
indicator band shows. For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air Intake System.
Oil: The oil should conform to CH4 grade and with a viscosity Index of SAE 5W30.
It should be kept in mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil has to have do
an additional load of lubricating and cooling the Turbocharger shaft If any oil of
lower specification is used it can break down under the high thermal load at the
turbine end of the shaft especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire limits.
Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the coolant
and ratio refer the Cooling System
Turbocharger: The engine is having a waste gate Turbocharger. Since the

bearing housing is water cooled, check the coolant level. If coolant level is less
and engine is running, turbo may fail.
As this engine is equipped with HLA with RFF (Hydraulic tappets); Tappet setting is
not required.

In Car Repairs
The in car repairs which can be carried out are:
Accessory belt removal & Re-fitment
Oil filter changing
Turbocharger removal & Re-fitment
Cylinder head gasket Replacement

Accessory belt Remove & Refit
Using the special tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown and lock the
auto tensioner in that position using a pin. The Belt can be easily removed.
Note – Check the auto tensioner free arm position. Ensure that end of travel is not
reached.

Oil filter removal & refitting
Remove the oil filter using the

Wrench – Special tool.
After removal, ensure that the

central stud is fully tight.
It can work out loose while removal

of the filter.
If it has worked loose then tighten it

to torque of 25-30 Nm ( 18-22 lb-ft)
While fitting the new oil filter. Apply oil on the “O” rings.
Tighten by hand only.

Turbocharger removal & Refitment
Remove the air intake hose to turbocharger & the outlet hose from turbo
charger to Intercooler.
Please cover the opening of the turbocharger to avoid accidentally

dropping any foreign object.
Do not apply oil to the hoses while fitment.
Remove the exhaust pipe

from the turbocharger.
Note - It is recommended to
apply rust cleaning spray (WD
40) in the nuts before
attempting to remove
otherwise, the stud is tending
to break.

Remove the oil feed pipe and

the oil return pipe from turbo.
Loosen & remove the turbo

charger support bracket.
Remove the turbocharger

mounting fasteners from
exhaust manifold.

Cylinder Head Gasket Removal & Re-fitment
Disconnect the battery cables &

remove the battery.
Remove the NVH cover.
Remove the Intercooler hoses &

the intercooler.
Loosen & Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if the
coolant is clean; then it can be reused.

Remove the hose fastened on the Front cover.
Loosen & remove the water collector pipe from the head.

Remove the electrical connections of:
Sensors (HFM, Cam Phase Sensor, Boost Pressure Sensor)

Water temperature sensor & Oil Pressure Switch
Connection to Injectors, Modulator etc.
Alternator connections
Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger end to intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger outlet elbow.
Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump to booster.

Remove the oil separator.
Rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the figure.

Lock the auto tensioner in that position using a locking pin. Remove the
drive belt.
Remove the locking pin and release the auto tensioner
Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts. Auto tensioner can take out.

LOCKING PIN
Using the spanner, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in the
figure.
Lock the auto tensioner in that position using a pin. Remove the drive belt.
Remove the locking pin and release the auto tensioner.
Remove the auto tensioner mounting bolts & remove the auto tensioner.

Remove the lubrication oil lines

connected to the alternator
vacuum pump from vacuum pump
end.
Loosen & remove the oil filter.
Loosen & Remove the alternator

mounting bolt & the alternator
brace.
Remove the alternator.

Loosen & remove Air Intake pipe.
Loosen & remove the oil filler neck.

Remove the dip stick & remove the

dip stick clamp bolt & the dip stick
guide.
Loosen & remove the Intercooler

bracket mounting bolts & remove
both the intercooler brackets.
Remove the Intercooler.
Remove the Ignition Coil by

removing the Single Mounting Bolt.
The Ignition coil now can be

removed.

Insert the Special tool inside the

slot. The clear picture is obtained
from the Diagram.
The Tool Should be totally inserted

in to the slot. Make sure that the
tool is contacting the spark plug
Now loosen the tool. The Spark plug

will come out with the tool.
Similarly follow the same procedure
for removal of the other three spark
plugs.

Loosen & remove the intake

manifold mounting bolts.
Care must be taken while

removing the Inlet Manifold.
Loosen & remove the Oil supply

lines to turbocharger.
Note – It is recommended to
remove the lock clip of the Oil
Return Line at the cylinder block
end first & then the oil supply line
inlet to the turbocharger.
Loosen the Turbocharger Mounting

bolt from the support bracket & the
support bracket mounting bolts
from the block.
Loosen & remove the Turbocharger
mounting bolts from exhaust
manifold.

Loosen the tensioner pulley nut.
Loosen the lock nut of the AC belt

tension setting bolt. Loosen &
remove the AC belt tension setting
bolt.
Remove the AC belt.
Loosen & remove the damper

pulley bolt & the damper pulley.
Care must be taken while handling
the damper pulley.
Loosen & remove the front cover

bolts. Remove the front cover.

To remove the front cover; 3 Nos.

bolts should be removed from the
front side of the oil sump.
Loosen the cam sprocket bolt.
• Loosen & remove the tensioner.

• Remove the chain guides by
removing the ‘e’ clips.

Loosen & remove cam to cam

chain guide.
Remove the bolt & remove the

cam sprocket.
Remove the bolt & remove the

other cam sprocket.
Loosen & remove the cam cover

bolts.
Remove the cam cover.
If the cam phase is not dismantled

from cam cover; care must be
taken while handling the cam
cover.

Lift & remove both the cam shafts.
Lift out the HLA & RFA assembly.

Place the HLA & RFA in straight
upward position in a clean tray.
Ensure that the HLA & RFA are kept

in straight upward direction in the
head assembly if not removed.

Loosen & remove the water outlet

pipe.
Loosen & remove the head bolts.

Torque 50 Nm+90deg. +90deg
It is advisable to follow the

tightening sequence for loosening
the bolts.
Remove the head assembly.
Remove the Head Gasket.

Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine

Comprise of 5 steps:
Removal of the engine
Dismantling
Inspection
Assembly

Removal of the engine from the vehicle
Disconnect the battery cables

& remove the battery.
Remove the NVH cover.
Remove the Intercooler hoses &

the intercooler.
Remove the bonnet.
Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if the coolant is
clean, so that it can be reused.

Remove the electrical connections of:
All sensors (HFM, Cam Phase Sensor, Crankshaft Speed Sensor, Boost
Pressure Sensor etc.)
Water temperature sensor & Oil Pressure Switch etc.
Connection to Injectors, Modulator etc.
Alternator & Starter connections
Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger end TC to
intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger outlet elbow.

Remove the starter motor.
Remove the Supply & return fuel lines.
• Remove hoses connecting the water pump to radiator.

• Remove the hose connected from the water pump to heater and
also the heater return line.
• Remove the Dual Electric Fan & Shroud
• Remove the radiator.
Remove the power steering connection hoses from the power steering
pump.
Remove the pipes connecting from AC compressor suction and
discharge lines.
Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump to booster.
Drain the oil from the sump.
Attach lifting device.
Remove the front insulators

mounting bolts.

Remove the gearbox mounting

bolts.
Pull out and lift the engine from the engine compartment.

Dismantling -
Mount the engine on the

Engine stand.
Remove the oil separator.
Using the special tool, rotate the auto tensioner in the direction shown in
the figure. Lock the auto tensioner in that position using a pin. Remove the
drive belt.
Take out the lock pin & release the Auto tensioner. Remove the auto
tensioner mounting bolts & remove the belt tensioner.

Using the spanner, rotate the Auto Tensioner in the direction shown in the
figure. Lock the Auto Tensioner in that position using a pin.
Remove the belt.
Take the locking pin out & release the Auto Tensioner.
Remove auto tensioner assembly by removing its 2 nos. mounting bolts.
Remove the lubrication oil

lines connected to the
alternator vacuum pump from
vacuum pump end.

Loosen & Remove the

alternator mounting bolt & the
alternator brace.
Remove the alternator.
Loosen & remove the power

steering pump mounting bolts.
Remove the power steering
pump.
Loosen & remove the water

pump mounting bolts &
remove the water pump.

Loosen & remove Air Intake

pipe.
Loosen & remove the oil filler

neck.

Loosen & remove the oil filter,

using filter wrench.
Remove the dip stick &

remove the dip stick clamp
bolt & the dip stick guide.

Disconnect the coolant pipe clips connected to the oil cooler.

Loosen & remove the Oil Filter Body mounting bolts & remove the Oil Filter
Body.
Loosen & remove the

Intercooler bracket mounting
bolts & remove both the
intercooler brackets.

Loosen & remove the Cam

phase sensor.
Remove the Ignition Coil by

removing the Single Mounting
Bolt.
The Ignition coil now can be

removed.
Insert the Special tool inside

the slot. The clear picture is
obtained from the Diagram.

The Tool Should be totally

inserted in to the slot. Make
sure that the tool is contacting
the spark plug
Now loosen the tool. The

Spark plug will come out with
the tool.
Similarly follow the same
procedure for removal of the
other three spark plugs.
Loosen & remove the intake

manifold mounting bolts.

removing the Inlet Manifold.
It is advisable to use an open
ended spanner to loosen the
particular bolt.

Remove the power steering

pump bracket from the
cylinder block.
Loosen & remove the Oil

supply lines to turbocharger.
Note – It is recommended to
remove the lock clip of the Oil
Return Line at the cylinder
block end first & then the oil
supply line inlet to the
turbocharger.

Loosen the Turbocharger Mounting bolt from the support bracket & the
support bracket mounting bolts from the block.
Loosen & remove the Turbocharger mounting bolts from exhaust manifold.
Rotate the auto tensioner and lock by using locking pin. Remove drive
belt. Remove lock pin to release auto tensioner. Remove auto tensioner
by removing mounting bolts.
Loosen & remove the AC compressor mounting bolts & remove the
compressor.

Loosen & remove the AC compressor mounting bracket bolts & remove
the mounting bracket.
Loosen & remove the damper

pulley bolt & the damper
pulley.
handling the damper pulley.
Loosen & remove the front

cover bolts. Remove the front
cover.
To remove the front cover; 3

Nos. bolts should be removed
from the front side of the oil
sump.

Lock the flywheel using the

MST.
Note - Do not remove the MST

from flywheel.
Loosen the cam sprocket bolt.
Loosen & remove the flywheel

bolts.
Remove the MST.

• Loosen & remove the secondary (Upper) tensioner.

• Remove the chain guides by removing the ‘e’clips.
• Press & lock the primary (Lower) tensioner. Loosen & remove the
mounting bolts & the tensioner

Remove the bolt & remove

the cam sprocket.
Remove the bolt & remove

the other cam sprocket.
Loosen & remove the cam

cover bolts & remove the cam
cover.
Lift & remove both the cam

shafts.
Lift out the HLA & RFA

assembly.

Loosen & remove the head bolts.
Note – It is advisable to follow the tightening sequence for loosening the

bolts.
Remove the head assembly.
Remove the Head Gasket.
Remove the head gasket.

Remove the timing chain &

remove the crank sprocket.
Loosen & remove the Crankshaft Speed Sensor.
Invert the engine.

Loosen & remove the Oil
Sump bolts.

Loosen & remove the Bed

Plate bolts & the Bed Plate.
Loosen & remove the rear seal

retainer & remove the rear
seal.
Loosen & remove the

connecting rod cap bolts &
caps.
Lift out the crank shaft

assembly with toner ring.

Loosen & remove oil jet bolts

& remove the oil jets.
Tap & remove the pistons with

connecting rods.
Loosen & remove the main oil gallery & auxiliary oil gallery plugs.

While fitting the Oil Gallery Plugs; Loctite is applied. So while removing
care must be taken to use proper sockets so that the head will not get
damaged.
Remove the circlip & tap the

gudgeon pin out.
Remove the piston rings.
Dismantling of the Head Assembly
Loosen & remove the Engine Lifting hooks.
Remove the Valve Spring

locks. Remove the Retainer
Valve Springs – Upper, remove
the Valve Springs & the Valve
Springs Retainer - Bottom.
Remove Inlet & Exhaust

Valves.
Note – If the valves are to be
used again; mark the valves
according to the respective
cylinder.

Separate the Water outlet

pipe & the nipple.
Remove the valve seals.
Remove the Valve guides &

valve seats using appropriate
tools & method.
Remove the Oil Gallery Plugs.
Inspection -
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are
beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Piston: Check for scuffing/scoring on the skirt. A hard thick layer of carbon
lacquer on top land is acceptable. (If the thick layer is present on the piston
check that the liner does not have scuffing)
However scuffing of the top land and skirt giving indication of overheating which
is not acceptable.
Parent Bore: Any scoring on the parent bore is not acceptable.
Crankshaft: Check for scoring on the main as well as connecting rod journal. If
scoring is nominal and will not increase the oil clearance then the crankshaft can
be used in, as it is condition.
However if it is unacceptable then the journal has to be ground up to service

limits only.
Any deep groove in the rear end oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will
result in oil leaks.
Valve: If valve tip is worn out/ ridged then not acceptable
Main bearing and connecting rod bearing — If the scoring is nominal and oil
clearance is not affected, then it can be reused. However if flaking /peeling of
the bimetal in any particular zone only is present then use new shell. Look for
foreign particle embedded, deep scratches.

Dampener pulley rubber bonding – Inspect for any gap between the rubber ring
and the outer/inner ring, Cracks on ring. Any deep groove in the front oil seal
seating area is unacceptable. It will lead to leakages.
If any deterioration of rubber or gap noticed between the ring and the rubber
replace the dampener pulley.
It is suggested that the dampener pulley be replaced at every 3, 00,000 KMs.
While measuring the inner diameter of the connecting rod big end and main
journal please take the measurements after torque tightening only. For
measurement purpose the torque should be 35±3 Nm +60°. Do not reuse this bolt
If line boring of the crankshaft’s journal in the block is done to rectify any ovality.
Then please ensure that the material from block half is not removed. In absence
of taking this precaution the piston will move up. It will change the compression,
influencing the performance. In the worst case the valves can hit the piston.
Assembly –
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
To obtain a good life of the rebuilt unit absolute cleanliness of the parts is taken
as a prerequisite and also the fact that all the parts have been inspected.
The additional points which are mentioned are necessary to give you the engine
life same as the original engine.
Bolts: The following bolts are recommended to be replaced every time they are
opened-if the Maximum length exceeds the specification. However the
connecting rod bolt has to be changed every time without exception.
The bolts have to be tightened by base torque then 2 stage angular torques. The
angular torque’s ensures that the bolts are torque tightened up to yield point.
And the 2 stage ensures that the clamping load for each bolt is within a very
close tolerance.
Cylinder head bolts - 10 no --Maximum length 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts - 10 no -- Maximum length 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod bolts- 8 no -- Replace every time
Flywheel bolts - 6no -- Maximum length 29.58/30.42 mm
Cylinder block – Top face -- Ensure that the tapping for the cylinder head bolt as
well as the crankshaft’s main journal is fine. Ensure that no water or oil after

cleaning is in the bolt holes (esp. the cylinder heads.). If found please remove
them, if necessary using cotton cloth (not cotton waste).
If the oil /water is not removed then it is possible that while tightening the bolt it
may not allow complete tightening of the bolts and one will get a false reading.
Cylinder head gasket –
It is a multi layer steel gasket type. Do not use any oil or shellac on the cylinder
head gasket or on the block face or the cylinder head face. The gasket has to
be fitted dry.
On one face of cylinder head gasket “TOP” is written. Make sure that this face is
facing top side.
Piston & Rings –
While fitting the piston rings ensure that the rings end gap are staggered in 120°.
The first ring end gap should not be on the thrust axis but the minor axis i.e. on the
gudgeon pin axis.
Please note that the first ring is keystone shaped hence the top mark has to face
up.
The 2nd ring is tapper faced. The face, which should be on the top, has to be
facing up.
The 3rd ring is the conformable type oil ring. It has 3 pieces. One piece is spring
expander type and remaining two are simple rectangular cross section with
small thick. Keep the spring expander piece in middle and place other two
pieces each one side and assembly.
While assembling the piston on to the liner- apply clean oil liberally on the liner
surface.
Bearing shells –
The bearing shells are marked with Red & Yellow paint mark according to the
clearances. The bearing shells need a selective assembly for optimum
performance of the engine.
While dismantling when the shells are removed from the Cylinder Block as well as
the Bed Plate; please note the colour & while assembly the bearing shells
marked with same colors are to be fitted at the respective position.
Before fitting the bearing shell ensure that the parent bore of the
block/connecting rod are clean.
Wipe the back end of shells with a clean cloth before assembling on to the block
or connecting rod.
Ensure that the bearing shells are located properly in the notches.
Oil seals –
Ensure that
9 All the oil seals are fitted using the dolly MST.
9 Always ensure that the lip is coated with grease before fitment.
9 Apply engine oil on the outside diameter of seal. The receiving bore should
be free of burrs, dent.

Assembly Tips –
Whenever the HLA & RFF

assembly is removed
from the head or stored
or while handling; should
be kept in straight
direction.
Before assembling the

HLA & RFF back fill oil
using a syringe through
the hole shown in the
sketch.

While tightening the cam sprockets (Exhaust & Inlet); use the special tool
as shown to avoid the rotation of cam sprocket.
The Exhaust Camshaft can be identified easily because of the trigger

wheel for the Camshaft sensor.
Also please note that while assembly the machined portion on both the
camshafts should be in vertical direction as shown in the sketch.

Timing Procedure
• Once the timing is disturbed & when the Engine is assembled again,
it is mandatory that the timing has to be set properly before running
the Engine.
• It is setting the timing @ first cylinder firing TDC
• Timing is set to get proper synchronization between crank signal &

cam signal.


1. Rotate the engine in such a way that the crank shaft key comes at 12’o
clock position (Facing towards the camshafts) as shown in fig.
2. Fit the camshaft locking tool & the crankshaft locking pin as shown in the
sketch above.
3. Assemble the sprockets & the primary chain. Hands tighten the sprocket
bolts.
4. Assemble the primary chain guide & Primary Chain Tensioner.
5. Assemble the floating chain guide.
6. Release the primary chain tensioner.
7. Tighten the bolt of Sprocket to the specified torque.
8. Assemble the Inlet & Exhaust camshaft sprockets, Cam to Cam chain
guide & Secondary chain. Do not tighten the Camshaft sprocket bolts.
9. Assemble the Secondary Chain Guide & Secondary Chain Tensioner.

Release the Primary Chain Tensioner by rotating the bolt.
10. Turn & hold the Exhaust Cam Camshaft Sprocket against the tightening
direction with the help of the tool as shown in figure above & tighten the
bolt of Exhaust Camshaft Sprocket to the specified torque.

11. Tighten the bolt of Intake Camshaft Sprocket to the specified torque.
• Remove the tool for locking the Camshaft.

• Assemble the Front Cover & assemble the bolts. Tighten the front
cover bolts to the specified torque & following the specified
sequence.
• Assemble the flywheel. Torque tightens the Flywheel Bolts following
the specified sequence. Lock the flywheel using the flywheel
locking tool.
• Remove the Crankshaft Locking Pin from the Block.
• Fit the Damper Pulley & tighten the bolt to the specified torque.
• Remove the Flywheel Locking Tool.
Cylinder head
While assembling the cam cover, first fit the dolly and then assemble the cam
cover, after that fit the end seals. Then only tighten the cam cover as per the
sequence given in the Sequence section. If the dolly is not used then the
probability of oil leak through the seals is high. The risk is that the oil leak from the
seals facing the fire wall is difficult to observe during normal inspection. While
inspection from bottom the oil leak may be confused with transmission leak.
Oil separator
Please ensure sealant application in between the oil separator and the cylinder
head in the seating areas only
Testing –
After the engine is reassembled in the engine stand; it is recommended that:
The engine is assembled back to the vehicle. All the connections are made.
9 Start the engine

9 Run at idle for 5 minute. Observe for leaks.
9 Drive the vehicle at 50% of the maximum speed in each gear for about 10 to
30 KMs each (Approx.)
9 Hand over the vehicle to customer to drive with speed limitation for 2000 KMs.

DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD FOR HOURS FOR BEDDING IN. THIS
PROCESS ONLY HARMS THE ENGINE.
RUNNING THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD CAUSE RING FLUTTERING AND DAMAGE TO
RINGS AS WELL AS LINERS.
RUNNING THE ENGINE AT IDLE FOR PROLONGED TIME HAS SERIOUS

CONSEQUENCES ON MAJOR ENGINE COMPONENTS

Specifications & Wear Data –
Figure Description Value
Bore 85 mm
Stroke 96 mm
Power- Max 103 kW (140 HP) @ 4500

rpm
Torque-Max 290 Nm@1800 rpm
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from front side
Compression Ratio 9.5
Re-entrant Bowl
Piston
Full floating. Surface

Piston Pin hardened & ground. Offset
by 0.5 mm
API grade CH4

Viscosity Index 5W30
6 liters
Oil grade & Quantity

Standard Service Limit

Piston ring to groove Diametrically :
clearance
1st ring 1.2-2
2nd ring 1.2-2.4
3rd ring 0.7-1.5
Piston ring end gaps

1st ring 0.25-0.4
2nd ring 0.4-0.6
3rd ring 0.25-0.5
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 31.00-0.006
Connecting rod – Small Standard

end bush I.D φ in 31.00 (+0.041 / +0.025)
assembled condition
Gudgeon pin to
connecting rod small 0.025 to 0.047
end bush clearance.

Gudgeon pin to piston 0.009 to 0.021
pin hole clearance
Piston weights grading

A A: 594-599 GMS
B B: >599-604 GMS
C C: >604-609 GMS
D D: >609-614 GMS
E

Connecting rod FOUR CONNECTING ROD

grading as per weights WEIGHT ASSEMBLIES OF
F ONE ENGINE WILL HAVE
G WEIGHT DIFFERENCE OF 5
H GM MAXIMUM
I
J WEIGHT OF ONE CONROD
K ASSEMBLY (CONROD,
L BOLT, BEARING, BUSH)= 950
M +/- 12.5 GMS
N
O
P
R
S
T
U
Recommended for
service replacement
Connecting rod bend BEND AND TWIST:

or twist PARALLELISM OF SMALL
END ID 0.06/100 WRT BIG
END ID

Connecting rod end Standard Service Limit
play
0.1-0.3
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit

0.1-0.3
Crankcase top surface Top surface flatness:

distortion 0.04 and 0.02/100
Cylinder head bottom Bottom face flatness:

face distortion 0.1 and 0.03/100X100

Height of cylinder 124

head from top to
bottom face
Rocker lever bush I.D 22.0

(in pressed condition)
Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
Rocker to shaft Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent ≤ 0.25 0.4
Valve spring Standard Service Limit

Free Length 47.16
Squareness 1.5 max
Installed Load/Installed Load: 204.0 +/- 10.2 N,
length Length: 34.5
Valve seat angle 90.0 0/+0.15' degrees
Valve stem O.D

Inlet 5.98 +/-0.008
Exhaust 5.96 +/-0.008

Valve to Valve guide
clearance
Inlet 0.012-0.142
0.032-0.168
Exhaust
Camshaft Bush I.D
Camshaft Journal O.D 24.0 (-0.04 / -0.053)

Camshaft bush to cam Standard Service Limit

journal clearance 0.02/0.075 0.1
Camshaft bend

Crankshaft pin
OD 50.981-50.996
Roundness/Ovality 0.008
Cylindricity /Taper 0.005

Main Bearing oil
clearance
Dimensions of the
Undersize of the c/s crankpin.
crank pin OD
0.25mm US
0.50 mm US
0.75 mm US

Crankshaft journal Yellow: 61.986-61.993
OD Red: 61.993-62.000
Roundness/ Ovality 0.005
Cylindricity/ Taper 0.008
Dimensions of the journal

Undersize of the c/s
journal pin OD
0.25mm US
0.50 mm US
0.75 mm US

Crankshaft bend
FILLETS ARE HARDENED. DO

NOT ATTEMPT TO
STRAIGTEN

Standard Service
Limits
Crankshaft fillet radius
3.0 mm typical
Crankshaft Hardness surface hardness: 50+5

Minimum all case areas are
effective case depth is at
HV450
Connecting rod
Bearing oil clearance 0.026-0.069

The Maximum length
of bolts after which
they cannot be used
Cylinder head bolts Can be used 3 times

Main Bearing Bolts Can be used 3 times
Connecting rod
Flywheel bolts length Can be used 3 times
Thermostat
Starts opening at 870 C ± 20 C
Fully opens at 980 C ± 20 C
Lift
Water pump pulley 0.76 (WP pulley runs faster

ratio than damper pulley)
Flywheel 31.5+/-0.15
Width from Mounting
face to clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service Limit
Flatness 0.05
Runout 0.05

Cylinder Head 0.1 mm.

warpage Limit

Sealant Application Pattern –
Sealant between Cylinder Block & Bed Plate – Loctite 574
Sealant on Front Cover – Loctite 5900

Sealant between Head & Cam Cover – Loctite 574
Sealant between Cam Cover & Oil Separator – Loctite 5900

Sealant On Oil Sump – Loctite 5900
Water Pump ‘O’ Ring – Loctite 401

Tightening Torques –
Description Torque Value
Head Bolts 50 Nm + 90°+ 90°
Bed Plate bolts 50 ± 2 Nm
Main Bearing bolts 65 ± 3 Nm + 2 X 60°
Connecting Rod caps 35 + 60°
Flywheel 50 Nm + 600
Damper Pulley 150 + 650
HPP Mounting Nut 10- 12 Nm
Trigger wheel to Crank 15-20 Nm
Speed Sensor Mtg. bolt 10-12 Nm
Oil Jets mtg. bolts 10 -12 Nm
HPP sprocket lock nut 72.5 ± 2.5 Nm
HP pipe nut – Rail End 27 ± 2 Nm
HP pipe nut – Injector End 27 ± 2 Nm
Viscous Fan clutch nut 50-60 Nm
Injector holding clamp nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
Injector holding studs 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Common Rail Mounting Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
HP pipe Pump to Rail – Pump End 10-12 Nm
HP pipe Pump to Rail – Rail End 10-12 Nm
Front cover Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Water Pump Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Water Outlet Pipe from Water Pump 10-12 Nm
Water Inlet pipe from Head to Radiator 10-12 Nm
Alternator Bracket bolts 30 ± 35 Nm
Chain Guide Bolts 10 ± 1 Nm
Chain Tensioner (Primary) Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Chain Tensioner (Secondary) Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Cam to Cam Chain Guide 10 Nm
Cam Sprocket Bolts 85 ± 95 Nm
Oil Filter Cartridge 11±1Nm
Dip Stick Guide 18 Nm
Oil Filter body 25 ± 3 Nm
Alternator oil supply line – Banjo End 15 ± 20 Nm
Alternator oil supply line – Block End 18 Nm
Power Steering Pump Mtg. Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Exhaust Manifold Mtg. Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
Turbocharger Mtg. studs on exhaust 25 ± 3 Nm
manifold
Turbocharger Oil supply pipe – Banjo End 10-12 Nm
Turbocharger Oil supply pipe – Block End 10-12 Nm
Turbocharger Oil drain Banjo Bolt 25 ± 3 Nm
EGR Mtg. nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
AC compressor Mtg. Bracket Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm
AC compressor Mtg. Bolts 35 ± 3 Nm

Intercooler Mtg. Nuts 17.5 ± 2.5 Nm

Intercooler dampers 17.5 ± 2.5 Nm
AC compressor on bracket 25 ± 3 Nm
Automatic belt tensioner Mtg. nuts 25 ± 3 Nm
Bolts – Mtg Inlet Manifold 25 ± 3 Nm

Tightening Sequence –
Flywheel Bolts
Cam Cover Bolts

Front Cover

Cylinder head Bolts

Oil Separator Bolts

Oil Sump
Inlet Manifold
Engine Front
Side

Exhaust manifold

Special Tools -
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View
Flywheel Lock
MST 271
Lock Pin for Chain Tensioner

MST 273
Spark Plug Removal Tool

Wrench Oil Filter Remover

MST – 545
TDC Locking Pin
Chain Backlash Elimination Tool
Camshaft Locking Tool

Air Intake System

Contents
Description
Operation
Trouble Shooting
Do’s & Don’ts
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment
procedures of the Turbocharger
Specifications
Tightening Torques

Description
The air is sucked through a foam type air cleaner. The air enters the air cleaner housing at
the bottom and leaves at the top. The air cleaner is made up of multi-layers of foam. Each
layer is having different cleaning efficiency.

Operation
By virtue of suction created in the system, air is sucked from atmosphere through dirty
side intake hose. The un-filtered air enters the air cleaner housing at the bottom and
leaves housing at top after passing through filter element. The filter element is having
multiple filtering media layers having different porosities. Dust and other fine particles
sucked inside along with atmospheric air get trapped inside the air cleaner while passing
through the filter element.
Clean air after coming out of the air cleaner passes through air mass flow sensor (HFM
sensor) which is mounted on top housing. HFM sensor is attached to the outlet of the air
cleaner. The air to the turbocharger passes through HFM. HFM sensor measures the air
mass going to the engine. The quantity of the air going is used to compute the fuelling.
The HFM also measures the air temperature.
After the HFM and before turbocharger there is a service indicator. In case of mechanical
one, red band appears in choked condition. The air then passes through clean side intake
hose over which mechanical service indicator is mounted. When air filter element gets
clogged with dust, red band appears on the service indicator. Red band on service
indicator indicates that the filter element needs replacement. The frequency of filter
element replacement, depends upon the kind of environment in which vehicle is being
driven. If vehicle is being used in dusty environment, frequent replacement is required. In
case filter element is not replaced on time, vehicle’s performance gets affected.
After filtration the air goes to the turbocharger through clean side hose.
The turbocharger is matched to give an optimum boost for the desired engine speed band.
A vacuum controller controls the boost. Also the boost pressure sensor mounted on the
Intercooler Outlet pipe monitors the boost.
Waste gated turbocharger is used for controlling the boost. This is achieved by
changing the waste gate position using the vacuum actuator. The ECU constantly
monitors the signals from the boost pressure sensor and accordingly controls the vacuum
going to the modulator which in turn controls the vacuum actuator.
The cooled air from the outlet of the intercooler enters the inlet manifold.

Trouble Shooting

Engine does Air intake obstructed 9 Check whether service
not start & indicator light glows or
emits black red band appears and
smoke replace element if light is
on /red band appears.
9 Refer to the care of the
system also
9 Check for free operation
of Turbocharger
Engine does 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Replace element
not give full 2. Air leaks in system 9 Plug the leaks, replace
power. after turbocharger hose or clip if required.
3. Boost pressure 9 Check the pipe, washer &
pipe/hose assembly rectify.
damaged
4. Turbocharger 9 Get the Turbocharger
damaged. repaired.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Check for hoses, replace

element.
2. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks between
Turbocharger & inlet
manifold
9 Remove restriction or
replace parts.
Excessive oil 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.
consumption element.
2. Restriction in air 9 Locate & remove
intake to compressor restriction.
duct.
3. Air leak between the
Turbocharger to 9 Locate the leaks, change
intake manifold. hose or clamp if required.
4. Restrictions in
turbocharger drain 9 Remove the restriction in
line. the drainpipe.
5. Restriction in
crankcase breather. 9 Check the crankcase
6. Thick oil/sludge or ventilation & rectify.
coke in the 9 Change oil, filter, service
turbocharger’s the Turbocharger & use
central housing recommended oils &

drain intervals. Follow the
recommended
procedure while shutting
down.
7. Turbocharger 9 Repair Turbocharger.

damaged.
Whining noise 1. Indication of air leak 9 Tighten the clamps at the

clearly audible esp. in between: intercooler inlet and
after 2000 RPM Turbocharger to inlet outlet.
manifold. 9 Tighten the clamps at the
Turbocharger inlet &
outlet.
9 Check the hoses for leak.
9 Check & replace the
pipe to and from
intercooler.

Do’s
1. Use only genuine air filter element
2. Clean the top housing, bottom housing, and support grate with clean and dry cloth or
Brush
3. Ensure that there is no physical damage visible on the filter media and on the sealing
gasket
4. While assembling the air cleaner, make sure that support grate is in position
5. While assembling the element, most porous foam layer will be at the bottom and will
rest against the grate
6. Tighten diagonally opposite bolts while re-assembling the air cleaner housing
7. Check for any leakages in the intake system.
Don’ts
1. Do not use spurious air filter element
2. Do not clean the filter element with water/gasoline/diesel etc.
3. Do not use oil on the filter element
4. Do not squeeze the filter element
5. Do not use the filter element if it is physically damaged

Care of the System
Air Filter Element Replacing Instructions:
1. Replace filter element if red band appears on service indicator OR

2. Every 40,000 kms under normal driving conditions. Under extremely dusty
conditions, early replacement will be required
Under extremely dusty conditions replace earlier than above.
It should be noted that if the engine is run with clogged air cleaner, then it will
lead to seepage of oil from turbocharger into the air intake system.
Ensure that the recommended engine oil only is used and the specified drain
intervals are maintained.
To achieve an optimum cooling of the compressed air it is vital that the vehicle’s
number plate position is not changed and/ or an oversize number plate does not
block the aperture for the air draft for the intercooler.
The Turbocharger & boost control valve does not require any special
maintenance. However check the boost pressure pipe for proper fitment
(connection from compressor to boost valve). Damage, cracks, chips at ends,
etc.
Check the operation of the waste gate valve by blowing compressed air with 2.0
bars in the valve hose. The valve should open, pressing the turbocharger stem
and opening the exhaust valve (flap valve)
Check the oil separator system, in particular for any leak in vacuum leak. As any
vacuum leak will lead to a high-pressure build up and then it will go through the
intake system and give a signal of high blow by or be confused with compressor
oil leak.
Do not attempt to disturb length of the waste gate controlling actuator rod.
If the Turbocharger is removed, please do not lift the turbocharger using the
actuator rod as a lifting handle.

In Car Repairs
Replacing the Filter Element
Replacing the Filter Assembly
Turbocharger removal & Refitment

Filter Element Replacement Procedure
Using a thin bladed flat screw driver,

loosen the lock clip screw.
Remove the Clean Side hose

(i.e. hose connecting turbo charger
and HFM.) Twist the hose slightly
and pull it out from HFM Side.
Disconnect the (mass air flow

sensor) HFM from its connector and
position it properly aside.
Loosen the Allen Key Bolts from the

Air Filter Top Cover Assembly.
Remove the Air filter element along
with grates and clean the bottom
bowl.
Separate the top as well as bottom
grates and replace the air filter
element; assemble the grates & put
the assembly back in place.
Position the new element properly.
Take care of lug projections.

CAUTION
Cleaning of the Foam is not required under any circumstances. Replace the foam if it is
torn or if the layers are separated.
Note: The Assembly Procedure is reverse of dismantling procedure.

Filter Assembly Replacement Procedure
Using a thin bladed flat screw driver,

loosen the lock clip screw.
Remove the Clean Side hose

(i.e. hose connecting turbo charger
and HFM.) Twist the hose slightly
and pull it out from HFM Side.
Disconnect the (mass air flow

sensor) HFM from its connector and
position it properly aside.
Separate the dirty hose secured to the

top condenser seal and remove the
same from its position.

Using a thin flat screw driver, loosen

the clamp screw and pull the clamp
backwards. Separate the Dirty Side
Air Hose from Air Filter Assembly.
Using a 13mm socket and wrench

set, loosen the mounting bolts of air
filter assembly. The arrows in the fig
are pointing to bolts which are
towards the battery side. Similarly
one bolt is toward the front side.
The Filter Assembly now can be

removed.
Note: The Assembly procedure is reverse of Dismantling Procedure

Turbocharger Removal & Refitment
Remove the air intake hose to turbocharger & the outlet hose from turbo charger to
Intercooler. (As shown in the above Fig.)

Remove the oil feed pipe and the oil return

pipe from turbo.
Loosen & remove the turbo charger

support bracket.
Remove the turbocharger mounting
fasteners from exhaust manifold.

Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the

Turbocharger
The Turbocharger is basically an axial inflow air compressor, which is driven by an
exhaust gas driven turbine. The exhausts gases coming out of exhaust manifold impinge
on the turbine blade give the drive to turbine shaft. At the other end of the turbine shaft
the compressor is assembled. The whole assembly is supported on a floating bush. The
bush gets an oil supply directly from the engine and has oil film between the shaft and
bearing as well as the bush and the central housing. In Gasoline turbocharger, bearing
housing is cooled by water and coolant mix.
The exhaust gases from the Turbine impinge on the turbine blade & rotate the shaft. The
compressor blades at the other end suck the air from the air filter. After compression the
temperature of the compressed air increases thus reducing the air density. Hence if the air
is cooled and then the air density increases thus helping in getting more power as well as
improve emissions. The compressed air is sent to the intercooler, which is mounted on
the top of the engine. Hence the incoming ram air through the scoop on the bonnet also
cools the compressed air and gives it to the intake manifold.
The turbocharger is matched to give an optimum boost for the desired engine speed band.
A vacuum controller controls the boost. Also the boost pressure sensor mounted on the
Intercooler Outlet pipe monitors the boost.
We are using waste gated turbocharger for controlling the boost. This is achieved by
changing the waste gate position using the vacuum actuator. The ECU constantly
monitors the signals from the boost pressure sensor and accordingly controls the vacuum
going to the modulator which in turn controls the vacuum actuator.
Inspection
3 Inspect the suction side (i.e. up to the air cleaner) for oil traces. In a close crank case
ventilation system it is normal to have oil in this area. These oil particles are carried from
blow by of the engine, which gets condensed from gas to oil. Look for any undue
gumming of oil, hard carbon particles in this area. If such an observation is present then
all the causes for excess blow symptoms have to be checked and eliminated.
3 Inspect the compressor and turbine blades for any damage caused by foreign object.
The inspection can be done through the compressor housing inlet and turbine housings
outlet.
3 Inspect the blades outer edge and observe if any rubbing marks are noticed on the
housing.
3 Rotate the shaft wheel assembly by hand and check for freeness, and any binding.
3 Push the shaft to side and rotate to check for wheel rub. It should turn smoothly.
3 Lift both end of shaft up and down at the same time and feel for excessive journal
bearing clearance. If clearance is normal then very little shaft movement will be detected.
3If all the above checks are satisfactory then the turbocharger can be reused.
3If the turbocharger parts are damaged, wheel rubbing marks present, shaft not
rotating freely or binding or excessive journal clearance then the Turbocharger
should be serviced.

3 Do not attempt to service or overhaul the Turbocharger. It should be done only at the
authorized Turbo Energy Ltd service center. Any attempts to attend without the use of
special tools or procedure can damage to turbocharger or personnel!
Turbocharger Installation
Do not mishandle, tumbled, dropped or keep any ports open.
Check
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for foreign material,
cracks, blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This check should be done more
thoroughly if any damage has been noticed in compressor or turbine blades as under
normal operating conditions the blades can damaged only if a foreign object hits them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to intercooler and intercooler to
inlet manifold for crack, aging, leaks. Check the hose clips for proper functioning. If in
doubt – replace. The oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack, distortions
etc. Clean the supply pipe before fitting. Do not attempt to change the orientation of
turbocharger and ensure the correct gaskets are used.
Do not reuse any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It will lead to
leakage & drop in the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed
i. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that give the shaft few rotations.
ii. Fit the supply pipe.
iii. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the drain pipe.
Do not crank the engine for too long.

Excessive cranking will result in emptying of the pump cavity causing the plunger to run
dry.)
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of any air pocket.
After this fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to avoid any kinks.
With engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil connections for leaks.

Specifications
Description Value
Turbocharger Model K 03
Turbocharger specifications K03 - 2080
Turbocharger supplier Turbo Energy Ltd.
Maximum back pressure at downstream of 400 mbar
turbine (at full load rated RPM)
Oil pressure at upstream of turbocharger 2.5 bar
Tightening Torque
Recommended
Description
Torque
Turbocharger Mounting Bolts 25 +/- 3 Nm
Air cleaner mounting bolts 25 +/- 5 Nm
Air mass flow sensor (HFM) mounting bolts 4.5 +/- 0.5 Nm
Tightening torque for worm gear clamps at intake hoses 4.5 +/- 0.5 Nm
Allen screws between top and bottom air cleaner housings 1.5 +/- 0.5 Nm
Service Indicator fitment on intake hose 4.5 +/- 0.5 Nm

Cooling System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System
Belt Diagnosis
Specifications

Description
The cooling system is designed to cater to the following functions:
• Remove & dissipate excess heat from the combustion process.

• To maintain the optimum temperature for complete and uniform combustion.
• To provide heating for the heater system.( In the models where the Heater is
provided)
The cooling system includes the following components/ sub system:
9 Radiator
9 Degassing Tank
9 Coolant
9 Dual Electric Fan
9 Fan shroud, Thermostat
9 Water pump
9 Thermostat housing, cover thermostat
9 Hoses & their clamps.
Broadly speaking the water flows from the water pump to the Front cover from
the cover it goes to cylinder block and from the block to the cylinder head and
then to the bottom of thermostat. In case the thermostat is closed, water goes
through the bypass tube to water pump. Once the thermostat opens the water
goes to the radiator and after getting cooled the water is again fed to the water
pump. One pipe goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core of HVAC
unit and then returns back.
Water pump & cover
The coolant from the outlet elbow of the cross flow type radiator enters the inlet
of the water pump. The centrifugal water pump delivers the water to the front
cover from there to the cylinder block.

Cylinder block & cylinder head –
In the block the water enters a main cooling passage which runs along the
length of the block in one side (inlet manifold side). The top passage ensures that
the maximum cooling is provided to the hottest zone of the cylinder liners i.e. the
top portion.
At the same time a passage at the front end connect the inlet to another gallery
at the bottom of the liner. In between the top and lower passage in the block
the coolant flows between the block & liners due to the thermos siphon effect.
The water then goes to the cylinder head and from there to bottom of the
thermostat. One external pipe from the back end of the block goes to the oil
cooler. The return pipe form the oil cooler is connected to the inlet of the water
pump.
Radiator & Degassing Tank
For pressurizing the whole engine cooing system and to store coolant, degassing
tank with pressure cap is provided. If system pressure falls below or increases
beyond specified limit, valve inside the cap get operated to control it. The
system is kept pressurized primarily to ensure higher boiling point of the coolant
mixture.
Degassing tank allows coolant to expand or contract depending upon

temperature. When coolant is at normal room temperature, it’s level should be
maintained between ‘MIN’ (minimum) and ‘MAX’ (maximum) marking provided
on side walls of degassing tank. Coolant can be topped up through the
degassing tank filler neck after removing the pressure cap. For draining the
coolant from system, drain plug is provided on bottom radiator tank.
Coolant mixture used is system is 30% aqueous solution of BASF Glysantin G 37-92
antifreeze. For diluting the concentrated coolant de-mineralized /distilled water
should only be used. For ensuring required ant-freezing, anti-corrosion and
cooling properties, specified coolant mixture should only be used.

Trouble Shooting
Before going into the specifics of the cooling system it is worthwhile to find out
under which driving conditions the complaints is present.
Some of the causes are:
Prolonged /excess idling
Very high ambient temperature
Slow traffic
Traffic jams
High speed
Steep Gradients
To avoid overheating under such conditions it will be worthwhile to:

Idle with the AC off. In case the temperature indicator needle is close to the red
band.
Increase the engine idling speed.

Noise
Fan shroud
1. Fan contacting the 9 Reposition the shroud
shroud and inspect the
engine insulators.
Water pump
1. Loose water pump 9 Replace the water
impeller. pump.
2. Water pump bearing
worn/ failure. 9 Replace water
3. Loose mounting of pump.
pump
9 Tighten mounting
Belts bolt
1. Belt loose
2. Glazed/stretched fan
belt.
3. Rough surface on drive 9 Tighten belt
pulley. 9 Replace serpentine
4. Belt alignment belt,

Alternator/Water pump 9 Replace pulley.
1. Alternator bearing 9 Check the belt

failure alignment & rectify.
Belt tension mechanism

1. Idler pulley bearing 9 Replace alternator
failure bearing
2. Idler mounting bracket
failure.
3. Tension bolt failure. 9 Replace idler
bearing.
9 Replace the idler

bracket.
9 Replace the tension
bolt.
Coolant loss- boil Coolant

over
1. Insufficient coolant 9 Add the additive.
additive causing lower
boiling points.
2. Additive deteriorated 9 Replace the coolant
due to aging/
contamination.
3. Low coolant level. 9 Add coolant
Hot shut down
1. Quick shut downs after 9 Allow the engine to
a long and hot run. run at idle for some
time before stopping.
Leakage’s
1. Leaks due to loose 9 Find the area of leaks
hose clamps. Loose , replace hose or if
nuts, bolts drain plugs, necessary the clamp
faulty hose or leaking also
radiators.
Blockages
1. Casting flash in the 9 Pressure tests the
block. system to check for
leaks and then repair
as necessary.
2. Casting flash in the 9 The flash may be
cylinder head. visible by removing

the cooling system

components or the
core plugs. Repair or
replace.
3. Blocked radiator 9 Flush radiator.

causing under filling of
the cooling system.
4. Air trapped in system. 9 Purge the system.

5. Air in the system
causing occasional
burping.
Coolant loss- boil Gas mixing
over 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
failure. head gasket
Belt
1. Slipping belts 9 Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt failure 9 Replace belt
Water pump
1. Damaged impeller. 9 Replace water pump
Thermostat
1. Faulty Thermostat. 9 Replace Thermostat.
Hoses
1. Radiator hoses 9 Replace hoses.
collapsed
Air flow
1. Air flow reduced to 9 Clean the radiator
choked fins fins.
2. Airflow reduced due to
obstruction. 9 Remove the
Vehicle obstruction.
Brakes dragging.
9 Check the brake
system.
High Temperature
Indication Improper indication
1. Faulty sensor 9 Replace the sensor.
2. Faulty gauge 9 Replace the gauge.

Coolant entry into 1. Low cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder

Crankcase or torque. head gasket, torque
cylinder as per procedure.
2. Faulty head gasket. 9 Replace the cylinder

head gasket
3. Blow hole in crankcase, 9 Replace the

head , liner affected part.
Low Temperature 1. Thermostat stuck open 9 Replace thermostat.
Gauge 2. Faulty sensor. 9 Replace sensor.
Indication- Under 3. Faulty gauge. 9 Replace gauge.
cooling
No coolant flow 1. Restricted return inlet in 9 Remove restriction.
trough Heater water pump.
Core 2. Heater hoses collapsed 9 Remove restriction or
or restricted. replace hose.
3. Restricted heater core. 9 Remove flash or
restriction.
4. Restricted outlet in the 9 Remove restriction.
thermostat housing.
5. Heater valve controls 9 Repair controls.
not functioning.
6. Heater valve stuck. 9 Repair or replace

Care of the System

The recommended coolant additive is given in the Recommended Coolant
section.
Note: While replacing the coolant or if the coolant level has come down due to
any hose or water pump or radiator replacement/ leak. The replacement
schedule is given in maintenance schedule.
There are two Auto tensioners. They are for the below mentioned items:
1. Alternator-Power Steering
2. AC Compressor-Water Pump

In Car Repairs
Accessory Drive Belts Replacement
Accessory Drive Belts Replacement
For removal of Water Pump drive belt –
1. Remove Alternator – Steering Pump Drive Belt & then,

2. Remove Water Pump – AC Compressor Drive Belt.
Refer below procedure for removal of drive belts,

Accessory Drive Belt- Replace

(Alternator-Power Steering Pump Drive Belt)
Removal Procedure:
• Remove the Degassing tank mounting bolts (2 No’s).

• Move the Degassing tank away from its original position. Care should be
taken that the coolant does not drain out.
• From top Access the Auto-tensioner.
• Turn Auto-tensioner in clockwise direction, to loosen drive belt.
• Remove Accessory Drive Belt.
Assembly Procedure:
• Refit accessory drive belt. Turn auto-tensioner in clockwise direction for

ease of belt fitment.
• Refit Alternator/power steering drive belt.
• Bring the Degassing Tank to its original position.
• Tighten the Mounting Bolts of Degassing Tank.

Accessory Drive Belt- Replace

(A/C-Water Pump Drive Belt)
Removal Procedure:
• Remove Alternator/Power steering drive belt (Refer Procedure).

• Turn Auto-tensioner in clockwise direction, to loosen AC/Water Pump belt.
• The Access to this Auto-Tensioner will be easy from Bottom.
• Remove Accessory Drive Belt.
Assembly Procedure:
• Refit Alternator/power steering drive belt (Refer Procedure).

• Turn auto-tensioner in clockwise direction for ease of belt fitment.
• Refit AC/Water Pump Drive Belt
Replace accessory drive belts at every 100000 kms.

Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System
Water Pump
Do not remove the radiator drain cock or the Engine coolant plate drain with the
engine in hot condition.
Always remove the pressure on the system by removing the radiator cap before
undertaking any work on the cooling system.
If the coolant is not contaminated then collect the coolant in a clean container
so that it can be reused. Replace coolant as per recommendation
Water pump –
A centrifugal water pump is used to circulate the coolant through the water
jackets, cylinder head, hoses and radiator. The water pump is belt driven by the
engine main drive pulley. It ratio of pulley diameter ensures that the water pump
rotates 1.30 times the engine speed.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is supported on two
bearings that are integral to the shaft.
The water pump seal is located between the impeller and the housing.
The housing has a small hole to allow the seepage to escape. That also acts as
an indication point if the water pump seal fails.
Water pump’s removal & Refitment
The water pump is not serviceable and has to be changed as an assembly.

Dual Electric Fan
Location of Fans
Specifications Fan 1 Fan 2

Power Low Power High Power
Fan Blade Size 317 mm 363 mm
The Dual Electric Fans will operate in below mentioned combinations:
• Both Fans in parallel HIGH Speed

• Both Fans in series LOW Speed
• Fan 2 ON in High Speed & Fan 1 OFF
• Both Fan OFF
The Fans are mounted on four bolts and can be easily removed from the
vehicle.

Belt Diagnosis
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belt,
Small crack that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib to rib are
considered normal.
Cracks running along a rib are not normal
The correct belt tension is required to ensure optimum performance of the belt.
Do not apply any external means to reduce noise. Application of oil will reduce
the belt life.
A detailed drive belt analysis is given below –
Symptom Possible reasons Correction

Rib chunking (One or 1. Foreign objects 9 Remove foreign
more ribs has embedded in pulley objects from pulley
separated from belt groove grooves. Replace
body) - Chunking 2. Installation damage. belt
happens when several 3. Poor surface of 9 Replace belt.
cracks in one area of grooves in pulley. 9 Clean pulley,
rib move parallel to the replace if required.
cord line.
Piling- happens when 1. Lack of tension 9 Adjust tension
the material is sheared 2. Misalignment of 9 Correct the
off the under cord and pulleys alignment.
builds up in the groove. 3. Worn out pulleys 9 Change pulley.
4. Excessive tension. 9 Adjust tension
Rib or belt wear. 1. Pulley or pulley’s 9 Correct the
misaligned. alignment.
2. Abrasive
environment 9 Clean pulleys-
replace if required.
3. Rusted pulley’s 9 Change pulley.
4. Sharp or jagged 9 Replace belt.
pulley groove tips.
5. Poor surface finish.
Tooth shear 1. Low belt tension 9 Correct the
2. Seizure of driven tension.
part. 9 Replace belt.
3. Misalignment. 9 Align pulleys
Tooth Wear 1. Incorrect tension 9 Adjust tension.
2. Worn out pulleys 9 Change pulleys
Longitudinal Belt 1. Belt has mis tracked 9 Replace belt.
cracking (Cracks from pulley groove.
between two ribs.) 2. Pulley groove tip has 9 Change pulley.
worn out the rubber
to tensile member.
Belt slips 1. Belts slipping 9 Adjust belt tension.
because of
insufficient tension 9 Clean pulleys.
2. Belt or pulley
subjected to
substances that
reduce the belt life (
oil, grease, ethylene 9 Replace the failed
alcohol) components.
3. Driven component’s 9 Replace belt
bearing failure.
4. Belt hardened and
glazed from heat
and excessive
slippage.
Groove jumping ( belt 1. Belt tensions either 9 Adjust belt tension.
does not maintain too high or too low.
correct position on 2. Pulleys not within 9 Replace pulleys.
pulley) design tolerances.
3. Foreign objects in 9 Clean pulleys.
groove.
4. Pulley misalignment, 9 Correct the
5. Belt cord line is alignment
broken. 9 Replace belt.
Belt broken 1. Excessive tension. 9 Adjust belt tension
2. Tensile members 9 Replace
damaged during
installation.
3. Severe 9 Correct the
misalignment. alignment
4. Bracket pulley or 9 Replace the failed
bearing failure. component.
Noise 1. Belt slippage 9 Adjust belt.
Objectionable squeak, 2. Bearing noise 9 Replace the
squeal rumble heard or defective bearing.
felt while drive belt is in 3. Belt mis-alignment 9 Adjust alignment.
operation 4. Belt to pulley 9 Use the correct
mismatch. belt.
5. Driven component 9 Vary belt tension
induced vibration within
6. System resonant specifications.
frequency induced 9 Replace belt.
vibration.
Tensile failure 1. Tension sheeting 9 Correct rubbing
contacting condition.
stationary object.
2. Excessive heat 9 Replace belt.
causing woven

fabric to age. 9 Correct the

3. Excessive installation tension.
tension.
4. Foreign body in 9 Replace pulley.
drive.
5. Belt crimped due to
improper handling.
6. Tension sheathing
splice has fractured.
Oil contamination 1. Oil leaks. 9 Correct the oil
leakage.
Cord edge failure 2. Excessive tension 9 Adjust tension.
(Tensile member 3. Belt contacting 9 Remove the
exposed at edges of stationary object. stationary objects
belt or separated from 4. Pulleys out of fouling.
Belt body) tolerance. 9 Replace pulleys.
5. Insufficient adhesion 9 Replace pulley.
between tensile
member & rubber
matrix.

Accessory Drive Belt – Inspect

(AC/Water Pump & Alternator/Power steering)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TO
BE CHECK FOR –
Refer illustrations below.
1. Abrasion
2. Cracking
3. Improper Install
4. Uneven Rib Wear
5. Misalignment
6. Chunk-out
7. Gravel penetration
8. Pilling
Refer illustrations shown.

1. Abrasion – Each side of belt appears shiny or glazed. In
advanced stages, fabric becomes exposed.
2. Cracking – Small, yet visible cracks along the length of a rib or
ribs.
3. Improper Install – A belt rib begins separating from the joined
4. Uneven Rib Wear – 5. Misalignment –

Refer illustration shown. Refer illustration shown.
Belt shows damage to the side Sidewalls of the belt may appear glazed
with the possibility of breaks in or the edge cord may become frayed
the tensile cord or rough and ribs removed. A noise may result. In
edged ribs. A thumping noise severe cases, the belt can jump off the
may also be heard when pulley

Specifications
Description Value
Radiator capacity 2.75 liters

Cooling system capacity 10 liters
Coolant GLYSANTIN G37-92
Ratio 30%
Coolant to be added after 2.79 liters
draining/flushing
Radiator pressure 1.9 bar
Input speed of Fan pulley 1.30 X Engine speed.
Degassing Tank Cap: Pressure Valve
1.1 ± 0.15 bar
Degassing Tank Cap:- Vacuum Valve
0.06 bar
Thermostat Start Open Temperature
870 C ± 20 C
Thermostat Full Open Temperature
980 C ± 20 C

Fuel System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System

Description
Fuel System Block Diagram
Engine Fuel filter Pressure

regulator
Non return
valve In tank Fuel Fuel tank
Pump
Purge valve
Canister Roll Over

valve
Main line
Return line
Vapor line
Description & Working of Fuel System
The fuel system can be divided into following subgroups.

Fuel filling
Fuel supply from in-tank Fuel pump to Main rail
MPFI System of spraying of the Fuel inside the cylinders
Return Line from pressure regulator to Fuel Tank
The fuel is filled from the opening provided at rear left. The fuel cap is ventilated
and threaded type. The cap is locked in place when further turning action result
in clicking of the ratchet. The fuel tank lid is electrically operated. The switch is
fitted on the centre bezel. While filling the tank, the air entrapped inside is vented
by the vent tube, which is connected at the mouth of the inlet pipe. The venting
is done from the highest point in the fuel tank. The fuel tank has a capacity of 53
litres.

During operation the fuel due to the vacuum created by the in-tank fuel pump,
is sucked through the filter. The fuel is then passed from pressure regulator to the
main rail on engine.
Vapors getting generated in the tank are passed on to canister through the
vapour line
The entire length of the fuel tank is protected at the bottom by a stone guard.

Trouble Shooting
Symptom Causes
Remedial action
Engine will not start • Clogged fuel 9 Change fuel filter
& emit black smoke filter/ fuel lines. 9 Check fuel supply
• Defective Spark line.
Plug 9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Engine speed falls • Clogged fuel 9 Change fuel filter
off. filter/ fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply
line.
9 Refer diagnostic
manual.
Engine does not • Clogged fuel 9 Change fuel filter
give full power. filter/ fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply
line.
9 Replace filters.
9 Locate the
• Defective kink/block in return
sparkplug. pipe and rectify.
9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Engine will not start • Weak battery 9 Check the battery

specific gravity.
• Corroded or loose 9 Clean & tighten
battery battery connections.
connection 9 Repair starter.
• Faulty starter

Care of the System
The fuel injection system depends on supply of clean gasoline fuel for the proper
functioning of the fuel system.
To ensure that clean fuel is available all the times it is advisable that the fuel filter
is replaced at the specified intervals.
The fuel filter should be changed at every 20,000 KMs. If the operating conditions
are poor then reduce the change interval.

Emission Control system
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System

Description
The m-Hawk Gasoline engine meets the Euro III norms. Vehicle is equipped with
three way catalytic convertor for emission reduction.
Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type.

The oil vapors from the rocker cover go to the labyrinth type oil separator, which
is mounted directly on top of the cam cover. The outlet from the labyrinth is
connected to a Pressure Control Valve (PCV).
This PCV controls the crankcase pressure.
From PCV, the blow by air is connected to both turbo compressor inlet and
intake manifold with check valves.
Refer below picture to know how the connections are.

The gases enter either in intake manifold or turbocharger compressor based on

the operating conditions.
Check valves are used to avoid the return flow.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose,
which is normal. However if it is excessive please look for all the causes
mentioned in the high blow by.
Trouble Shooting
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder
smoke defective. head gasket.
2. Worn out or damaged 9 Lap the valve seats or

valve seats. regrind.
Excessive oil 1. Restriction in crankcase 9 Locate & remove

consumption breather. restriction.
2. Damaged oil separator
9 Check the crankcase
3. Bend / kink in any of ventilation & rectify.
the oil return pipe’s / 9 Change the vacuum
vacuum hoses. hoses.
9 Remove the bend or kinks.
Engine does not give 1. Throttle body hose come 9 Check the hose
full power. out. connection and
fit it properly.
2. Pressure modulator not 9 Check and change the
working modulator
3. Turbo actuator not 9 Check and replace the

working turbo
4. Vacuum hose crack, 9 Ensure vacuum

loose, fallen off. connections at vacuum
pump, vacuum modulator
& reservoir.

Care of the System

To meet the emission norms it is essential that the Fuel system, Air intake system &
cooling system be maintained as per the schedule .For details refer to the
particular section
Generally it is not appreciated that if the engine is running below the optimum
temperature. Similarly a wrong grade or poor quality of fuel increases the
emissions. A blocked air cleaner or restriction in intake system increases the
emissions.
Oil separator system –
Check the hose connection at every 10,000 KMs for cracks, aging and leaks.

Clutch
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
In Car Repairs
Clutch Actuation Mechanism
Clutch overhaul
Inspection
Specification & Wear Limit
Tightening Torques
Lubricant
List of the MSTs

Description
The clutch disc is a single, dry type with cushion springs in the hub. The clutch disc’s
friction material is riveted to the hub.
The clutch cover is a diaphragm type with one-piece construction. A 240-mm clutch
disc is used.
In the engaged position (when the clutch pedal is not pressed), the diaphragm spring
of the clutch cover assembly holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc.
This enables the engine torque to be transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox,
without any slip / loss.
The clutch is hydraulically actuated with self-adjusting features. The complete

actuation system comprises of a clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir. The
master cylinder is connected to the clutch actuation or the slave cylinder by hydraulic
pipe. The travel of the push rod results in linear movement of the release bearing
through a release fork pivoted on a ball in the clutch housing.
The clutch release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center towards the flywheel.
The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch plate.
Steel spring straps riveted to the pressure plate cover pulls the pressure plate away
from the clutch disc. When the clamping load on the clutch plate is relieved it slides
on the splines of the input shaft away from the flywheel thus disengaging the engine
torque from the input shaft & enabling the gears to be changed.

CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT
Concentric Slave Cylinder
CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT

Refer above illustrations –
1. Check for Clutch Fluid Level up ‘Max’ mark on the brake/clutch fluid reservoir.
2. Check for Clutch Fluid leakage and correct fitment at all joints –
Hose connected from reservoir and Clutch master cylinder.
Clutch Master Cylinder inlet and outlet [1].
Clutch Bundy tube to flexible hose joint.
Clutch slave Cylinder inlet banjo [2].

CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE

Hose from CMC
Bleed Screw
Clutch Master
Cylinder Assy.
Clutch Housing
Slave Cylinder Assembly
*Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC)
CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE (System Flush out & refill with fresh fluid)
Refer above illustration –
1. Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
2. If the bleeding operation is done without connecting a tube and in the open air then
the chance of air remaining trapped is high.
3. Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave cylinder.
4. Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully immersed in the bottle having clean
clutch fluid.
5. Fill the Reservoir clutch master cylinder up to the top level with recommended clutch
fluid.
6. Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full stroke.
7. Holding the clutch in depressed condition rotate the bleed screw by 90 degree and
allow all the air escape in to the container bottle.
8. Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.
9. During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
10. Close the bleed screw properly.
11. Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cap on bleed screw.
12. Check the fluid level in container and be top up to the ‘MAX’ level.[1]
Always use recommended fluid and do not mix different brand fluids.
In case fluid reservoir replaced, clutch system needs to bleed.
Clutch system fluid to be flush out and refill with fresh fluid at every
40000kms or once in a year, whichever is earlier
* Scorpio VLX is with CSC, SLE slave cylinder is outside-conventional.

Care of the System –

While topping up use the recommended fluid conforming to DOT3 standard /SAE
J1703/IS 8654 specifications only. Avoid mixing different brands.
The clutch fluid is hygroscopic fluids hence tend to collect humidity. The humidity
along with the brake fluid can cause acidic reaction & seizure of the master & slave
cylinders. The clutch fluid should be replaced every 40,000 km or one in a year,
whichever is earlier. The master & clutch cylinder seals to be replace every 50,000
KMs
Trouble Shooting –
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is extremely obvious, accurate problem diagnosis
will require a road test to confirm that the problem exists. To find out the actual root
cause of the problem the clutch will have to be dismantled and the failed parts
examined to determine the cause.
During road test, drive the vehicle in normal operating speeds. Shift the gears and
observe the clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip or improper release is experienced,
remove & inspect the parts. However if problem is noise or hard shift then the
problem may not be in clutch only but also the transmission or the driveline.
If the clutch slip is suspected then drive the vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear at the top speed
(corresponding to the gear). Keeping the accelerator fully pressed; slowly apply the
brake- with your left feet. If the engine stalls then the clutch is not slipping.
Clutch Problem Causes –
Fluid contamination is the most frequent cause of clutch malfunction. Oil, water on
the clutch contact surface will cause faulty operation viz. Slip, grab, and judder.
During inspection check if any parts in the clutch are coated with oil or water splash
from road.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either rear main seal or transmission-input shaft.
The oil leaks from either of these areas will normally coat the housing interior or
clutch cover or flywheel. Heat buildup due to slippage between the clutch plate and
the flywheel or the pressure plate can result into the leaked oil literally getting
baked. Visually this will result in a glazed residue varying from amber to black.
Roads splash contamination will mean that the dirt water is entering the clutch
housing either due to lose bolt or torn rubber boot.
Clutch misalignment –
The clutch component i.e. the clutch plate, flywheel and the pressure plate have to
be aligned with the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. Misalignment caused

by run outs/ war page will cause clutch to grab judder as well as improper release
(also manifesting as hard gearshift).
Flywheel run out –
The flywheel run out needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected.

Flywheel run out should not exceed 0.10 mm.
To measure the run out mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block.
Locate the dial gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive run out are –
Heat warpage.
Improper machining.
Incorrect bolt tightening
Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
Improper seating on crankshaft.
Clutch cover & Disc run out –
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete
release of clutch plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can
cause distortion of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the
flywheel. The only way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively
(diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3 thread a time only.

A noisy gearshift operation especially the 1st and 2nd gear can be due to clutch not
getting disengaged completely. To check it, jack up the rear axle. Lift the axle till
both the wheels are rotating freely.
Press the clutch pedal completely and start the engine, the wheels should not be
spinning. Now slowly release the pedal till it has moved about 10 mm, the wheel
should still not be spinning. If some spinning is noticed then it indicates improper lift
of the pressure plate. First check the bleeding and the pedal travel then check for the
pressure plate lift.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned
with the crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete
release of the clutch plate. It can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger
and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also damage the spline of the input shaft and
clutch hubs well as the clutch splines
Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
Missing alignment dowel holes.
Loose or missing mounting bolt.
Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
To check the clutch housing misalignment bell housing run out will also need to be
checked.
Clutch slippage:
Observation Causes Remedial action

Disc facing worn 1. Normal wear. Replace clutch disc
out. 2. Clutch riding. Replace clutch plate
3. Insufficient diaphragm Replace clutch plate &
spring clamp load. cover assembly.
4. Faulty release Replace , and bleed/

mechanism. Customer to be
5. Vehicle being driven informed.
despite slipping clutch.
6. Bad driving practice of Customer to be
allowing the clutch to informed.
slip far too long.
Clutch disc Leak at :

facing 1. Crankshaft rear end oil Replace seal & disc.
contaminated seal Clean cover assembly.
with oil, grease
or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the input Replace seal & disc.
shaft Clean cover assembly.

3. Excess amount of grease Apply less grease.

applied to the input shaft Replace clutch disc.
splines Clean cover assembly.
Clutch is running Release bearing carrier Replace bearing /

partially sticky. carrier.
disengaged.
Flywheel height 1. Improperly machined

incorrect. flywheel. Replace flywheel.
2. Excess machining done.
Wrong disc or Use the correct parts Replace the parts after
pressure plate comparison.
used.
Clutch disc/ 1. Improper tightening or Replace the parts and
cover or loosening procedure. tighten as per sequence.
diaphragm spring
warped. 2. Rough handling of clutch Replace the parts, ensure
plate or cover assembly that the rough handling
is avoided
Flywheel side Flywheel surface ,scored and Reduce the scoring and
clutch facing having light notch nicks by sand paper.
surface – torn/ Reduce if scoring deeper.
nicked/ worn
Clutch disc1. Frequent operation under Roughen the flywheel
facing burnt. high loads or hard face with sandpaper.
Excessive glazing acceleration conditions Replace clutch plate &
of the flywheel cover assembly.
& pressure2. Frequent clutch riding by The driver has to be
plate. the driver. alerted to avoid repeat
failure.
Clutch facing Improper storage- clutch Replace.
broken plate dropped prior to
fitting.
Fouling marks on Improper fitment- assembled Rectify
the torsion the wrong way around
damper.
Clutch grab/chatter:

Clutch disc Leak at :
facing 1. Crankshaft rear end oil Replace seal & disc.
contaminated seal. Clean cover assembly.
with oil, grease Replace seal & disc.
or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the input Clean cover assembly.
shaft. Apply less grease.
3. Excess amount of grease Replace clutch disc.

applied to the input shaft Clean cover assembly.
splines
Clutch disc / 1. Incorrect or substandard Replace disc and cover
pressure plate parts. with the correct parts.
warped. 2. Improper tightening or Replace the parts and
loosening procedure. tighten as per sequence.
Disc facing show
unusual wear 3. Rough handling of clutch Replace the parts, ensure
plate or cover assembly that the rough handling
is avoided.
Partial 1. Clutch pressure plate Replace clutch cover &

engagements of position setting incorrect clutch plate.
clutch disc (One or modified
side worn – 2. Clutch cover, spring or Replace clutch cover &
opposite side release fingers bent or clutch plate.
glazed and distorted due to rough
lightly worn.) handling or improper
assembly.
3. Clutch disc damaged or Replace clutch plate.
distorted.
4. Clutch misalignment. Check alignment and run

out of flywheel disc or
cover.
Replace the clutch plate

& cover assembly (if
required. Correct the
alignment)
No fault found Problem related to Further diagnosis

with clutch suspension or driveline required. Check engine &
components. components. transmission mounting
insulators. U Joint, tyres,
body attaching parts.
Clutch master Piston/ bore damaged or Overhaul the master &
cylinder or slave corroded slave cylinder.
cylinder piston
jammed/
scuffing.
Tangential strap 1. Incorrect driving Advise the customer of
connecting the practice the consequences.
pressure plate to Mostly due to tow
the diaphragm starting in 1st or 2nd gear
cover broken. Or
Incorrect gear selection

Improper clutch release:

Clutch disc New disc not checked before Check the new disc’s run
warped. installation out & replace it.
Clutch plate is 1. Clutch disc hub splines Replace the clutch plate.
binding on the damaged during
input shaft’s installation. Replace input shaft is
splines. severely damaged.
2. Input shaft splines rough or
damaged. Replace the clutch plate.
Replace the input shaft if
3. Corrosion or rust formation the scaling can not be
on splines of disc and input removed.
shaft.
Clutch disc- Vacuum may form in pockets Drill 1/16 inch diameter
facing sticks over rivet head. Occurs as hole through rivets and
to flywheel. clutch cools down after use. scuff sand the clutch disc
facing.
Clutch will not 1. Low fluid in the clutch Top off the fluid and
disengage master cylinder. check for leaks.
properly.
2. Air in the hydraulic system Bleed & refill the system.
Tighten the bolts.
3. Clutch cover loose.
Replace disc.
4. Wrong clutch disc.
Replace the cover
5. Clutch cover diaphragm assembly.
spring bent / warped during
transmission installation.
Fit the clutch plate
6. Clutch disc fitted correctly the hub should
backwards. be facing the pressure
plate side & the flywheel
side mark towards the
flywheel
Bush worn out Vibration / misalignment Fit new bearings & check
/ damaged for misalignments.
Clutch misalignment

Hard gear shift:

Brake fluid 1. Leaks Replace fluid.
less and or 2. Reservoir strainer missing Stop leaks and avoid
contaminated contamination.
Excessive Wrong adjustment or lock nut Adjust

clutch pedal loosening
free plays.
Clutch plate 1. Warpage due to handling or Replace
warpage assembly.
2. Warpage due to
misalignment.

In Car Repairs –
Adjustment of clutch pedal height
Clutch bleeding.
Adjustment of clutch pedal height –
Loosen the lock nut of master

cylinder’s push rod fork.
Slide backs the dust cover.
Rotate the master cylinder push rod

till desired height of pedal is
achieved.

Tighten the lock nut of push rod

fork.
Screw in pedal stopper bolt

completely.
Press pedal fully till the pedal

bottoms on the floor.
Now screw out the pedal stopper

bolt till it touches the pedal lever,
release pedal.
Screw out the bolt further by one
turn. Tighten the locknut.
Refer illustration given below and Recheck pedal height in case vehicle is
equipped with Engine Stop-Star (ESS) system.

Bleeding the clutch –
Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
If the bleeding operation is done

without connecting a tube and in
the open air then the chance of air
remaining trapped is high.
Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding

screw on slave cylinder.
Ensure that the other end of the

tube is fully immersed in the bottle
having clean clutch /brake fluid.
Fill the Reservoir clutch master

cylinder up to the top level with
recommended clutch fluid.
Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times

slowly to the full stroke.
Holding the clutch in depressed
condition loosen the bleeding screw
on slave cylinder by ½ to ¾ turn
and allow all the air escape in to
the container bottle.
Repeat the exercise till no air

bubbles appears in the bottle.
During this operation ensure fluid

level in reservoir.
Tighten the bleed screw properly.
Remove bleeding tube and place the

dust cap on bleed screw.
Check the fluid level in container

and need be top up to the ‘max’
level.

Clutch Actuation Mechanism –

The clutch actuation is hydraulic actuation. The clutch pedal actuates a master
cylinder. The hydraulic fluid is transmitted to the slave cylinder through a flexible
pipe.
The clutch actuation mechanism does not have a fork and the pivot ball. The hydraulic
concentric bearing is a unique design and incorporates the slave cylinder and the
release bearing. The bearing is permanently attached to the slave cylinder piston. The
hydraulic lines are permanently attached to the bearing assembly. The hydraulic line
near the slave cylinder is fitted with a quick disconnect coupling.
• Master cylinder overhaul
• Slave cylinder and Concentric bearing Overhaul

Master cylinder overhaul –
Remove the outlet pipe connection.
Remove the clevis pin lock & the

clevis pin.
Remove the clutch push rod fork &

the clutch pedal.
Remove the master cylinder from the

firewall.

1. Pull back the dust cover.
2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove the push rod assembly with retainer washer.
4. Remove the piston assembly by gently tapping the Clutch Master Cylinder body on
a wooden block.
Using a screwdriver, lift the leaf

spring retainer. Remove spring
assembly from plunger.

Take care, while lifting the spring

otherwise the spring and the stem
will fall off.
Compress spring to free valve stem

from eccentrically positioned hole in
the end face of spring retainer. This
will separate spring retainer from
valve stem.
Remove spring, valve spacer and

spring washer from the valve stem.
(While assembling hold the spacer
between fingers such that the valve
stems hangs down vertically. Pull
down the stem downwards as far as
possible. Observe if the valve stem
has moved freely upwards. If
movement is not free replace valve
spacer.)
Remove the valve seal from the

valve stem.
The bore and the plunger should be
checked for scoring, scuffing uneven
wear marks, corrosion and excessive
clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover for
cut, deterioration if damaged
replace.
The assembly procedure is the
reverse of the dismantling
procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate it
with brake fluid.
The concentric bearing and the slave cylinder are serviced as an assembly only. It
cannot be overhauled. The release-bearing portion of the assembly is permanently
attached to the piston. The only time the concentric bearing should be replaced is
when it is either leaking or obviously damaged. The bearing should not be changed
just because the clutch disc or the pressure plate assembly is being replaced. Replace
the bearing assembly only when it has failed.

Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder –

To replace the Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder; the transmission needs to be
removed.
For the removal of transmission please refer to ‘Clutch Overhaul’ section in this
manual.
Dismantling -
1. Loosen & remove the 3 Nos. mounting bolts of the Concentric Slave cylinder.
Note – The mounting bolts are ‘Torx’ type. Care should be taken to use the
proper tools to avoid any damage to the mounting bolts head.
2. Separate the Bleeder – CSC & Concentric Slave Cylinder by removing the Quick
Release Coupling.
Assembly –
1. While fitting the new Concentric Slave Cylinder also separate the Bleeder – CSC
& the Slave Cylinder.
2. Fit the Slave Cylinder in the Transmission & tighten the mounting bolts. Now
connect the Bleeder – CSC to Slave Cylinder.
3. Fit the transmission back on the vehicle.
4. Connect the hydraulic pipe from CMC to CSC.
5. Bleed the System.
Note – While assembling, hand tighten the mounting bolts opposite to each other &
torque tighten to the specified torque. Failing to do this can lead to adverse effect on
release bearing life.

Clutch overhaul –
Block the front wheels, so that the
vehicle does not move forward.
Disconnect the negative cable of

the battery.
Remove the electrical connections

to the starter motor.
Remove the starter motor by
removing the mounting bolts.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End

Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft

out from the transmission.
Note – After the propeller shaft

yoke is pulled, a bit of oil is
expected to come out as the yoke
itself is the guide for the oil seal.
Disconnect the speed sensor connection.

Remove the electrical connection for the reverse lamp switch.
Support the engine suitably at rear end.

Remove the gearshift lever grommet.
Remove the gear shift lever upper

half.
Support the gearbox using a suitable stand.
Remove the gearbox mounting insulators.
Remove the clutch housing fastening screws to the engine.

Remove the hydraulic pipe

connecting the Clutch Master
Cylinder to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Collect the Hydraulic Fluid. Do not
allow the fluid to fall on painted
surface.
Move the gearbox away from the engine.
If the cover assembly may be reused then loosen the cover bolts evenly and in
tightening sequence to relive the spring tension equally.
The bolts should be loosened few threads at a time – so that the warping is
avoided.
If the cover assembly is not going to be reused then this precaution is not
essential.
If the pilot bearing has to be removed then the flywheel has to be removed and
then the bearing removed using the MST no 543.
(To install the bearing MST no 544 has to be used.)
During assembly use the MST 546 to align the clutch plate while the cover is
being tightened.
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the

precautions mentioned.)

Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are beyond
the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Flywheel run out --
The flywheel run out needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected.

Flywheel run out should not exceed than 0.10 mm
To measure the run out; mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block.
Locate the dial gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive run out are:

Heat warpage.
Improper machining.
Incorrect bolt tightening
Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
Improper seating on crankshaft.
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then
while fitting it back ensure that:
No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the
specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel
run out.
Clutch cover & Disc run out -
Check the clutch disc run out before fitting. It should be within the specifications. If it
is more than the specification- use a different clutch plate.
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete
release of clutch plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can
cause distortion of the cover and also disc damage.

The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the
flywheel. The only way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively
(diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3 thread a time only.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned
with the crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete
release of the clutch plate. It can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger
and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also damage the spline of the input shaft and
clutch hubs well as the clutch splines
Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
Missing alignment dowel holes.
Loose or missing mounting bolt.
Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
Before fitting the clutch housing ensure that no dirt, debris or foreign parts are
trapped between the mating surface of the transmission & the clutch housing.
Flywheel -
If the flywheel is found to be having minor scoring then it can be resurfaced. However
the maximum allowed cut is 0.076 mm. If scoring is deeper than 0.0076 than the
flywheel has to be changed. (Excessive material removal will cause the flywheel to
either crack/ warpage after installation/ drop in clamping load and will affect the
proper clutch release as the travel of release bearing gets affected.)
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then
while fitting it back ensure that:
No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the
specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel
run out.
Starter ring replacement: Unless the provision of properly heating & fitting is
available. It is not recommended to replace the starter ring. It is worthwhile to
replace the ring along with the flywheel.

If the starter ring is only going to be replaced then:
• Do not use a gas flame to cut. It can cause local overheating of flywheel.
• The ring gear has to be heated in an oven to get uniform expansion. (Nearly 191°C)
• Does not use flame to heat the ring – it can cause annealing of the ring teeth and
premature failure.

Specifications & Wear Limits –
Figure
Description Value
Clutch control type- Hydraulic- self
adjusting
Pressure plate Diaphragm
Clutch Disc
Outer Dia (mm) 240±1
Inner Dia ( mm) 160± 1
Disc Thickness ( mm) 8.8 mm ( free)
Clutch disc run out 0.8 mm Max
Minimum thickness from 0.4 mm

outer face to rivet head.
Clutch pedal Suspended Type
Clutch pedal Ratio 7.4

Figure
Description Value
Clutch Pedal Height above

carpet thickness of 10
mm.
Total Pedal Travel 160 mm

90% Pedal Travel 144 mm.
Clutch pedal free play 5 to 6 mm

(including push rod play at
pedal top)
Master Cylinder 19.05 mm

Bore diameter
Clearance between 0.13 mm

The piston & the bore
( Both cylinders)

Figure
Description Value
Flywheel Standard Service

Limit
Flatness ≤ 0.05
Run out 0.1
≤ 0.05
0.1
Flywheel 35±0.13
Width from Mounting face
to clutch face
Clutch release point from 25 mm from Bottom

pedal full stroke end position
position
Pressure plate finger 47.6 ± 1.0 mm

height ( mm)
Diaphragm spring tip non 0.8 mm ( finger to

alignment.( Max) finger)
Diaphragm spring finger Max depth 0.5 mm

wear Max width 5 mm

Tightening Torque’s –
Location Torque Nm ( lb-ft)
Pressure plate bolts 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm (24 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Clutch pedal position Switch lock
25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
nut
Clutch master cylinder nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Concentric Slave Cylinder bolts (
10Nm ( 7 Lb-ft)
CSC)
Flywheel Bolts 50 Nm + 60° ( 36.80 Lb-ft + 60°)
Clutch pedal pivot bolt and nut 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm ( 20 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Lubricant –
Specification: DOT3 standard /SAE J1703/IS 8654
Hindustan Petroleum: HP Super Duty Brake Fluid
Castrol/ Girling Brake Fluid.
Indian Oil: Servo Brake fluid Super HD

List of the MST –
Description/ Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Master clutch plate assembly- diesel
( aligner)
MST 546
Extractor Flywheel bearing
MST 543
Drift Flywheel bearing

MST 544

ESS (ENGINE STOP-START SYSTEM) -

System Description:
The following steps illustrate how the system functions.

• Vehicle has come to halt due to traffic signal / jam, is in neutral gear and the clutch
pedal is fully released.
• The engine will shut down automatically after 2 seconds. Immediately after
depressing
the clutch pedal fully, the indicator - - in the cluster will blink (till the engine stops)
indicating that the engine is going to stop shortly.
• Once the engine stops, the indicator- - will glow continuously in your instrument
cluster indicating that the engine has been stopped by the Micro Hybrid system.
• Once the Signal turns green, press the clutch pedal fully & engine starts
immediately.
• The indicator in the cluster goes off indicating that engine has started again & you
are ready to drive on with the vehicle.
Note:
To activate the micro hybrid system, ensure the switch located in the left side of the
instrument panel is in pressed condition.
Note:
Do not attempt to swap EMS ECU with that of any other vehicle for the vehicle is
enabled with Transponder based Immobilizer and hence vehicle will get immobilized.
Also, if a lower version dataset (Micro Hybrid uses V76) is used on Micro Hybrid
enabled vehicles will result in Starter Motor engaged continuously with Ignition ON.

The following inputs are required for Start Stop system to function
1. Mode selection Switch condition
2. Bonnet switch condition
3. Gear box position
4. Clutch pedal switch position (10% & 90% switch)
5. Accelerator pedal input
6. Engine speed
7. Vehicle speed
8. Battery Condition
9. Fuel temperature
10. Coolant temperature
The Engine will automatically stop if all the below conditions are met
1) Mode Selection Switch in ON condition

i) For activating/deactivating the Start Stop function
2) Vehicle speed shall cross minimum of 2km/h

i) For confirming the driving cycle start.
3) Engine Speed in Idling Range

i) For confirming vehicle stand still condition
ii) Engine idle speed: 800rpm
4) Vehicle Speed is zero

i) For confirming the vehicle stand still condition.
5) Gear Box is in Neutral

i) For confirming vehicle neutral condition.
6) Battery Condition Healthy

i) To ensure sufficient power for next starting cycle.
7) Accelerator Pedal Not Pressed

i) For confirming vehicle stand still condition.
8) Bonnet remains closed

i) For working safely in the engine compartment when the vehicle in service.
9) Clutch pedal fully released

i) For confirming
Once all above conditions are satisfied, vehicle will automatically stop in two seconds.
Whenever the system is going to turn off the engine, the start stop lamp in the cluster
will blink. If the driver wishes to avoid stopping of the engine after the blink, a press
of clutch or accelerator pedal will help to reset the timing. Once the engine is stopped
by the start stop mode, start stop lamp in the cluster will be continuously ON.
The system will not stop the engine, when the battery charge goes below a certain
threshold value so as to preserve the battery.

The Engine will start automatically once the clutch pedal is fully pressed with
below mentioned conditions -
1. Mode Selection Switch in ON condition

2. Engine Speed is zero
3. Vehicle Speed is zero
4. Gear Box in Neutral
5. Bonnet remains Closed
6. Clutch Pedal Pressed fully
S. No. P-Code Description Parts to be Checked

1 P1704 Gear Neutral Signal is not 1. GNS
plausible
2 P168E Gear Neutral Signal is not 1. GNS
plausible in Stand Still condition 2. Clutch 10% & 90%
switches
Once the vehicle gets started, start stop lamp in the cluster will automatically goes
off.
Error codes
This codes are only for reference – to view the code and rectification procedure,
refer the EMS Diagnostic Manual
3 P170D Starter power stage Short circuit to Battery

4 P1710 Starter power stage Excess Temperature
5 P1712 GNS Relay No Load
6 P1714 GNS Relay Sticking
7 P170A Redundant Clutch Switch is not Plausible
8 P1AE9 Stop lamp power stage Short circuit to Battery
9 P1AEA Stop lamp power stage Short circuit to Ground.
10 P1AEB Stop lamp power stage No Load
11 P1AEC Stop lamp power stage Excess Temperature
12 P1715 T50 always pressed
Battery Not Healthy:
1. Attempt to re-charge the battery and re-use

2. If recharging the battery is not successful replace the battery.
Note: Only 72Ah battery to be used
Starter motor failure:
1. Check the ignition key for any struck. If there is a problem in the key replace
ignition key and change the starter motor
2. Check for starter pinion damage if pinion damage is observed then replace the over
running clutch assy.

NOTE: Starter motor used is different from vehicles which do not have Engine Start
Stop since starter is subjected to more number of cranks. Only S78 Starter to be used
for ESS application.

Clutch Switch failure:
Clutch switch replacement:

Loosen the nut and remove the 90% clutch switch. Replace with new clutch switch.
Adjust the switch for 90% clutch position. It can be done by checking the continuity in
the switch contacts by pressing the clutch pedal for 90% of its travel. 90% clutch
switch is NC switch. At 90% clutch travel, there should not be continuity between the
contacts.
And the same procedure can be used for adjusting the clutch switch.
Note: Refer annexure for 90% clutch switch fitment / adjustment. GNS:

The gap between sensor and magnet shall be 6±1mm. This gap has to be maintained
within the specification to ensure the proper function of gear neutral sensor.
• Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) fitment: Refer illustrations below.
GNS Magnet and Hall Element fitment on Gear Lever

• 90% CLUTCH SWITCH FITMENT / ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:

Clutch Pedal Assembly -
CAM arrangement on ESS Cam bracket -

Scorpio Gasoline August
March2009/Rev
2010/Rev11
Clutch Pedal – Check for proper functioning

Care of the system –

If a vehicle uses non standard or more then one floor mat. It may reduce the pedal
travel which will lead to malfunction of ESS switch. Hence it is strictly
recommended to have floor mat as recommended by M&M.
It is recommended to check the functionality of ESS switch once in every 5000 Kms of
vehicle run.

NGT 530R-2WD
Contents
Description
Care of the transmission
Service Diagnosis
Dismantling
Cleaning & Inspection
Tightening Torque
Special Tools
Specifications

Description –
It is a 5-speed gearbox. The 1st & 2nd gear is having double cone type synchronizer
while the 3rd, 4th & 5th are having strut type synchronization. The reverse gear is
sliding mesh.
The gear selection is by a direct shift lever operating a 3-rail system. The accidental
operation of two gears is avoided by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations
passing on to the shift lever; the shift lever is two-piece with rubber isolation provided
on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3 piece aluminum with an intermediate plate. A skid plate
protects the bottom of the gearbox. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel
through the integral clutch housing and supported at rear on the cross member. The
gearbox also has a gear neutral switch (GNS) which give signal to ECU when vehicle is
in neutral gear position.

Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) position on TM retainer plate -
GNS Magnet and Hall Element fitment on Gear

L

Care of the transmission –

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs. with the vehicle un laden and
on level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug. Use
lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 4 & viscosity 80W90.The brand names have
been specified in the Operators Manual.
The lubricant should be changed at 5000 KMs, then at 40000 KMs and after that every
40000 KMs.
Service Diagnosis –
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate

lubricant fill, or an incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and
adapter or extension housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also
be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal.
Leaks at component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer,
gaps in sealer, incorrect bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or
retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended
operation. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip,
grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two
post or a four post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute
or so before checking. These recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and
avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.

Hard Shifting –
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated

lubricants, component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged
clutch pressure plate or disc. Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes undetected for an extended period the
first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise. Incorrect or
contaminated lubricants can also contribute to hard shifting.
The consequence of using non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect
adjustment of a worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced then it can result in gear clash during shifts.
Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions at the end of stroke
(upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can also cause
improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear.
In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly
causing hard or noisy shifts. In most conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission Noise –
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears
can generate slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant

problem. Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of
gears, synchros, shift rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem can also lead to gear breakage.

Summarizing the common faults and their cause:

Problem Possible Causes Correction
Low oil level Top up oil.

Gear Whine Worn teeth gears Replace gears
Worn bearings Replace bearings.
Knocking or Chipped gear teeth Replace gears.

ticking Foreign matter inside Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid recurrence.
Defective bearings. Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of Defective detent springs. Replace the detent springs.

gear Worn out grooves in shift Replace the shift rails.
rail.
Shaft misalignment. Replace the gears
Worn dog teeth in gear Replace the fork/ pads
Worn out fork/ fork pads Replace the body
Worn out synchronizer
body.
Unable to Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

select gear clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Worn out selector Rectify the gear
mechanism selector mechanism
Hard gear Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

shifting clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Improper or contaminated Replace the lubricant with
lubricants the specified lubricant.

Replacement of output shaft seal –
Remove the propeller shaft from the Rear (Differential) end & carefully pull the
propeller shaft out from the transmission
Tap the dust cover out with the help of
a mallet.
Remove the oil seal using a blunt edge
screw driver or any other suitable tool.
Note - Care must be taken not to
damage the housing while removing the
oil seal.
Fit the new oil seal.
The lip of the oil seal & the aluminum

housing should be protected against any
damage.
Removal of the transmission from the Vehicle –
Remove the top lever.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft out from the transmission.

Note – After the propeller shaft yoke is pulled, a bit of oil is expected to come
out as the yoke itself is the guide for the oil seal.
Drain the transmission oil.
Loosen & remove the starter motor.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting the CMC to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Loosen & remove the Clutch Housing fastening bolts.
Disconnect the speed sensor connection.
Disconnect the reverse lamp switch connections.
Loosen the cross member bolts & Remove the transmission.

Removal of Gears Neutral Switch-
1. Remove the floor console.

2. Remove gear gaiter bezel assembly.
3. Remove shift lever grommet.
4. Remove spring retention plate pivot.
5. Remove neutral sensor.
6. Remove button lever.
7. Remove sensor mounted on gear bottom lever.
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is

the reverse of the disassembly procedure.

Dismantling:
Gear Neutral Switch fitted on Lever
Removal Steps –
1. Remove the lock clip & remove the grommet.

2. Remove biasing cover plate bolts & springs. – 4 nos. (Check Point A)
3. Remove Lever retention bolts – 3 nos. Remove GNS socket and Gear Neutral
Switch mounted on plate – 4 bolts.
4. Put the selector mechanism in neutral & remove lever assembly along with
nylon bush.

5. Remove the Speedo adaptor.

6. Loosen & remove the bolts fastening the Front housing – Intermediate plate &
the Rear housing.
7. Remove the rear housing by tapping with the help of a mallet.

8. Remove the circlip in front of the 5th driven gear.
9. Remove the bearing inner race, shim, bevel gear on the 5th – Reverse sub
shaft.
10. Remove 5th driving gear, synchro brass ring & the needle bearing.
11. Remove the roller bearing on the main shaft using MST.
12. Remove the 5th driven gear using MST. [SKF TMMP3/230 (puller) & TMMH 100 (for
attachment]

13. Loosen & remove the reverse switch.

14. Pull out the gear train from the front housing with intermediate plate.
15. Separate the Main drive gear from the main shaft.

16. Loosen & remove the detent, ball & spring from the intermediate plate.
17. Remove the 5th – reverse rail fork & remove the 5th – reverse rail & fork
assembly, idler gear, reverse sub shaft & synchro hub assembly.
18. Separate the Counter shaft from the intermediate plate.
19. Remove the 3rd – 4th shift rail split pin & remove 3rd – 4th shift rail & selector
fork & plunger.
20. Remove 1st – 2nd shift rail split pin & remove the shift rail &fork.
21. Loosen & remove the nut in front of the reverse driven gear & remove the
reverse driven gear from the main shaft.
22. Separate the intermediate plate from the main shaft.
23. Remove the main shaft pilot (small bearing towards clutch housing side)
bearing.
24. Remove the circlip & Belleville washer.
25. Remove the 3rd – 4th synchro hub assembly, synchro brass ring & the 3rd gear.
Separate the 3rd gear needle bearing.
26. Remove the taper roller bearing from the other end. Separate the 1st gear
shim, 1st gear needle bearing, double cone synchro assembly, 2nd gear & the
2nd gear needle bearing.

Dismantling of Double Cone Synchro Assembly –

The Double cone synchro which is used in this transmission assembly is serviced as a
unit. If dismantled the assembly procedure is as below –
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve on to the hub as shown in the
picture. Please ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push struts against sleeve and slid in
the grove. Note: Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring, causes injury.

Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture, three tangs should face the
grooves on the hub.

Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the pocket of outer ring.
For reference: marking on the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
Please ensure that inner ring is

seated properly in the Pocket of
outer ring. Intermediate ring and
inner ring should be almost at one
level.
Place 1st gear by engaging

intermediate ring’s tang with the
three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
Please ensure other synchronizer
assembly remains in the same
position.
Invert the above whole assembly

and put on to the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and 2nd gear as described above
on the other side.

Check Points –
A)
Remove the speedometer drive.
Failure to do may result in damage

to bearing/ housing.
B)
Please note the fitment of the balls
& the interlock pins.
It is recommended that while
assembly lightly smears the pin &
balls with grease.
This will avoid the ball or the pin
falling down while assembly.
Springs towards 1st / 2nd gear

position is softer than 5th / reverse
position
Cleaning & Inspection –
Clean the transmission parts in solvent.

Dry the housing gear mechanisms & shafts with compressed air.
Do not use the compressed air to clean / dry the bearings. It can cause damage
to raceways and rollers.

Description Torque Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm (9 ± 2 lb – ft )
30 ± 5 Nm (22 ± 4 lb – ft )
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Hsg. To Main
Hsg.
Flange Bolt – Front, Intermediate 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 4 lb – ft )

&
Rear Hsg.
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ±2 lb– ft )
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm ( 32 ± 3 lb – ft )
Bolt – Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm ( 23 ± 3 lb – ft )
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm ( 18 ± 3 lb – ft )

Speedometer Sleeve 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 5 lb – ft )

Special Tools –
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View

Dolly to press outer race of Counter
Shaft Brg. in Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H007
Dolly to press outer race of MD Gear

Brg. in Ft. Hsg.
070 AD2720H008
Dolly for pressing oil seal in Rear

Hsg.
0703AD2720H002

Dolly for pressing Outer Race of

Countershaft Bearing
0703AD2720H005
Dolly fir pressing Outer Race of

Output shaft Bearing in
Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H006

Specifications –

Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse

gear
Gear shift Direct shift with

rubberized
lever
Gears Helical- toothed
Double Cone type

synchronizer on 1st – 2nd ,
Block ring 3rd-4th pin type
Gear Engagement on 5th gear.
Gear Ratio
1st 3.778
2nd 2.087
3rd 1.379
4th 0.789
5th 3.524
Reverse
Oil grade/ quantity 80 W90 SYNCHRO
Oil Capacity: 1.8 liters.

Counter shaft One ball bearing & one

bearing Cylindrical roller.
Input Torque 30 Kg-m

capacity
Weight 45 Kg
Play Limit (mm) Service

Limit (mm)
1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
3rd 0.175 0.375
4th 0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove 0.6 to 1.2

clearances

Sealants –
Sr No. Location Sealant / Thread Applicability

Locks NGT530 R –2 WD
1 Ft. Hsg. &
Intermediate Plate Loctite 5699
2 Intermediate Loctite 5699
Plate & Rear Hsg
3 Clutch Hsg. & Frt. Loctite 5699
Hsg.
4 Output shaft Loctite – 24185
Locknut Optional – ANR 138
Optional – Loctite 242
5 Breather Loctite 648
6 Pivot & Rear Hsg. Rhodorseal

Optional – CAF -33
Pidiseal – 3P
7 Speedo Sleeve & Pedilite 171
Rear Hsg.
8 Drain Plug Threads Pedilite 171
9 Filler Plug Threads Pedilite 171

10 Reverse light Pedilite 171

switch Threads Optional – Loctite 577

NGT 530R-4WD
Contents
Description
Care of the transmission
Service Diagnosis
Dismantling
Tightening Torque
Special Tools
Specifications

Description –
It is a 5-speed gearbox. The 1st & 2nd gear is having double cone type synchronizer
while the 3rd, 4th & 5th are having strut type synchronization. The reverse gear is
sliding mesh.
The gear selection is by a direct shift lever operating a 3-rail system. The accidental
operation of two gears is avoided by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations
passing on to the shift lever; the shift lever is two-piece with rubber isolation provided
on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3 piece aluminum with an intermediate plate. A skid plate
protects the bottom of the gearbox. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel
through the integral clutch housing and supported at rear on the cross member. The
gearbox also has a gear neutral switch (GNS) which give signal to ECU when vehicle is
in neutral gear position.

Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) position on TM retainer plate -

L

Care of the transmission –

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs. with the vehicle un laden and
on level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug. Use
lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 4 & viscosity 80W90.The brand names have
been specified in the Operators Manual.
The lubricant should be changed at 5000 KMs, then at 40000 KMs and after that every
40000 KMs.
Service Diagnosis –
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate

lubricant fill, or an incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and
adapter or extension housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also
be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal.
Leaks at component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer,
gaps in sealer, incorrect bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or
retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended
operation. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip,
grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two
post or a four post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute
or so before checking. These recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and
avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.

Hard Shifting –
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated

lubricants, component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged
clutch pressure plate or disc. Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes undetected for an extended period the
first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise. Incorrect or
contaminated lubricants can also contribute to hard shifting.
The consequence of using non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect
adjustment of a worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced then it can result in gear clash during shifts.
Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions at the end of stroke
(upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can also cause
improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear.
In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly
causing hard or noisy shifts. In most conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission Noise –
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears
can generate slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant

problem. Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of
gears, synchros, shift rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem can also lead to gear breakage.

Summarizing the common faults and their cause:

Problem Possible Causes Correction
Low oil level Top up oil.

Gear Whine Worn teeth gears Replace gears
Worn bearings Replace bearings.
Knocking or Chipped gear teeth Replace gears.

ticking Foreign matter inside Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid recurrence.
Defective bearings. Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of Defective detent springs. Replace the detent springs.

gear Worn out grooves in shift Replace the shift rails.
rail.
Shaft misalignment. Replace the gears
Worn dog teeth in gear Replace the fork/ pads
Worn out fork/ fork pads Replace the body
Worn out synchronizer
body.
Unable to Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

select gear clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Worn out selector Rectify the gear
mechanism selector mechanism
Hard gear Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

shifting clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Improper or contaminated Replace the lubricant with
lubricants the specified lubricant.

Replacement of output shaft seal –
Remove the propeller shaft from the Rear (Differential) end & carefully pull the
propeller shaft out from the transfer case.
Remove the oil seal using a blunt edge screw driver or any other suitable tool.
Note - Care must be taken not to damage the housing while removing the oil
seal.
Fit the new oil seal.
The lip of the oil seal & the aluminum housing should be protected against any
damage.
Removal of the transmission from the Vehicle –
Remove the top lever.
Drain the transmission oil.
Loosen & remove the starter motor.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting the CMC to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Loosen & remove the Clutch Housing fastening bolts.
Disconnect the reverse lamp switch connections.
Loosen the cross member bolts & Remove the transmission

Removal of Gears Neutral Switch-
1. Remove the floor console.

2. Remove gear gaiter bezel assembly.
3. Remove shift lever grommet.
4. Remove spring retention plate pivot.
5. Remove neutral sensor.
6. Remove button lever.
7. Remove sensor mounted on gear bottom lever.
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is


Dismantling:
Gear Neutral Switch fitted on Lever
Removal Steps –
1. Remove the lock clip & remove the grommet.

2. Remove biasing cover plate bolts & springs. – 4 nos. (Check Point A)
3. Remove Lever retention bolts – 3 nos. Remove GNS socket and Gear Neutral
Switch mounted on plate – 4 bolts.
4. Put the selector mechanism in neutral & remove lever assembly along with
nylon bush.

5. Loosen & remove the bolts fastening the Front housing – Intermediate plate &
the Rear housing.
6. Remove the rear housing by tapping with the help of a mallet.
7. Remove the circlip in front of the 5th driven gear.

8. Remove the 5th driven gear using MST.
9. Remove 5th driving gear, synchro brass ring & the needle bearing.

10. Loosen & remove the reverse switch.

11. Pull out the gear train from the front housing with intermediate plate.
12. Separate the Main drive gear from the main shaft.

13. Loosen & remove the detent, ball & spring from the intermediate plate.
14. Remove the 5th – reverse rail fork & remove the 5th – reverse rail & fork
assembly, idler gear, reverse sub shaft & synchro hub assembly.
15. Separate the Counter shaft from the intermediate plate.
16. Remove the 3rd – 4th shift rail split pin & remove 3rd – 4th shift rail & selector
fork & plunger.
17. Remove 1st – 2nd shift rail split pin & remove the shift rail &fork.
18. Loosen & remove the nut in front of the reverse driven gear & remove the
reverse driven gear from the main shaft.
19. Separate the intermediate plate from the main shaft.
20. Remove the main shaft pilot (small bearing towards clutch housing side)
bearing.
21. Remove the circlip & Belleville washer.
22. Remove the 3rd – 4th synchro hub assembly, synchro brass ring & the 3rd gear.
Separate the 3rd gear needle bearing.
23. Remove the taper roller bearing from the other end. Separate the 1st gear
shim, 1st gear needle bearing, double cone synchro assembly, 2nd gear & the
2nd gear needle bearing.

Dismantling of Double Cone Synchro Assembly –

The Double cone synchro which is used in this transmission assembly is serviced as a
unit. If dismantled the assembly procedure is as below –
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve on to the hub as shown in the
picture. Please ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push struts against sleeve and slid in
the grove. Note: Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring, causes injury.

Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture, three tangs should face the
grooves on the hub.

Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the pocket of outer ring.
For reference: marking on the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
Please ensure that inner ring is

seated properly in the Pocket of
outer ring. Intermediate ring and
inner ring should be almost at one
level.
Place 1st gear by engaging

intermediate ring’s tang with the
three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
Please ensure other synchronizer
assembly remains in the same
position.
Invert the above whole assembly

and put on to the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and 2nd gear as described above
on the other side.

Check Points –
Please note the fitment of the balls
& the interlock pins.
It is recommended that while
assembly lightly smears the pin &
balls with grease.
This will avoid the ball or the pin
falling down while assembly.
Springs towards 1st / 2nd gear

position is softer than 5th / reverse
position
.
Cleaning & Inspection –
Clean the transmission parts in solvent.

Dry the housing gear mechanisms & shafts with compressed air.
Do not use the compressed air to clean / dry the bearings. It can cause damage
to raceways and rollers.

Description Torque Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm (9 ± 2 lb – ft )
30 ± 5 Nm (22 ± 4 lb – ft )
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Hsg. To Main
Hsg.
Flange Bolt – Front, Intermediate 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 4 lb – ft )

&
Rear Hsg.
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ±2 lb– ft )
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm ( 32 ± 3 lb – ft )
Bolt - Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm ( 23 ± 3 lb – ft )
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm ( 18 ± 3 lb – ft )

Special Tools –
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View

Dolly to press outer race of Counter
Shaft Brg. in Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H007
Dolly to press outer race of MD Gear

Brg. in Ft. Hsg.
070 AD2720H008
Dolly for pressing oil seal in Rear

Hsg.
0703AD2720H002

Dolly for pressing Outer Race of

Countershaft Bearing
0703AD2720H005
Dolly fir pressing Outer Race of

Output shaft Bearing in
Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H006

Specifications –

Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse

gear
Gear shift Direct shift with

rubberized
lever
Gears Helical- toothed
Double Cone type

synchronizer on 1st – 2nd ,
Block ring 3rd-4th pin type
Gear Engagement on 5th gear.
Gear Ratio
1st 3.778
2nd 2.087
3rd 1.379
4th 0.789
5th 3.524
Reverse
Oil grade/ quantity 80W90 SYNCHRO
Oil Capacity: 1.8 liters.

Counter shaft One ball bearing & one

bearing Cylindrical roller.
Input Torque 30 kg-m

capacity
Weight 45 kg
Play Limit (mm) Service

Limit (mm)
1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
3rd 0.175 0.375
4th 0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove 0.6 to 1.2

clearances

Sealants –
Sr No. Location Sealant / Thread Applicability

Locks NGT530 R –4 WD
1 Ft. Hsg. &
Intermediate Plate Loctite 5699
2 Intermediate Loctite 5699
Plate & Rear Hsg
3 Clutch Hsg. & Frt. Loctite 5699
Hsg.
4 Output shaft Loctite – 24185
Locknut Optional – ANR 138
5 Breather Loctite 648
6 Pivot & Rear Hsg. Rhodorseal

Optional – CAF -33
Pidiseal – 3P
7 Drain Plug Threads Pedilite 171
8 Filler Plug Threads Pedilite 171

9 Reverse light Pedilite 171

switch Threads Optional – Loctite 577

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U
S
U
Transfer Case – Electric Shift

Contents
Description
Construction & Operation
Identification
Trouble Shooting
Removal from the vehicle
Dismantling
Assembly
Tightening Torques
Special Tools
Specifications
Automatic Locking Hub
2010
Description –
Divgi-Warner’s 4555 Transfer case is a two-speed, part-time electrical shift

transfer case. The transfer case operates in a system. The system consists
of:
1. Transfer case with Shift Motor, Speed sensor and Electric clutch.
2. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
3. Mode selector switch and Indicator lights 4WH and 4WL on dash
board
4. Harness to connect the above parts and power input.
The power is received by input shaft, which is coupled with output shaft of
transmission gearbox by matching splines. There are two outputs, one for
rear wheels and one for front wheels. Four selector positions are provided
as follows –
2010
Position Speed Operation

Ratio
2H - Two high position 1: 1 Only the two rear wheels are
driven at 1: 1 speed ratio
4WH - Four high 1: 1 All four wheels are driven at 1: 1
position speed ratio
4WL – Four low position 2.48:1 All four wheels are driven at 2.48:
1 speed ratio
Construction & Operation –
Planetary gear set provides gear reduction. Power is transferred to the

front wheel drive through a Morse HY-VO chain drive. Unit operates in an
oil bath. An oil pump is used to provide positive lubrication to the
planetary gear set and other upper output shaft components.
The different modes are obtained by rotating selector switch for selection.
This in turn gives signal to Electronic Control Unit (ECU). ECU intelligently
controls operations. It senses the conditions and shift transfer case in to
the mode selected.
The control over the operations is obtained using Electronic Control Unit
(ECU). It is housed below the driver’s or co-driver’s seat. Rotary switch
is provided for selection of different modes –
2H – Two wheel high

4H – Four wheel high
4L – Four wheel low
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Identification –
Identification
Tag
Manufacturing Date Divgi Warner

DD MM YY Assembly Part No.
XX XX XX XXXX-X
XXX XXX XXXXXXXX
Divgi Warner
M&M
Serial No.
Part No.
2010
Automotive Sector
• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 2H Mode
Input Shaft
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Rear Output Flange
Only the two rear wheels are driven at 1: 1 speed ratio
2010
• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 4H Mode
Input Shaft
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Lockup Assembly
R. Flange
Drive Sprocket
Chain
Driven Sprocket
¾ Shifting from 2WD to 4WD Lower Output Shaft

• Shift selector switch mode from 2H to 4H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn On.
• Shifting is possible during driving. Front Yoke
¾ Shifting from 4WD to 2WD
• Shift selector switch mode from 4H to 2H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn Off
• Shifting is possible during driving
2010
• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 4L Mode

Input Shaft
Sun Gear
Carrier Assembly
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Lockup Assembly
Rear Flange
Drive Sprocket
Chain
¾ Shifting from 4H to 4L
• Stop the vehicle
Driven Sprocket
• Apply clutch paddle
• Shift selector switch mode from 4H to 4L. 4WD LO
indicator light will turn On
Lower Output Shaft
¾ Shifting from 4L to 4H
• Stop the vehicle
• Apply clutch paddle. Front Yoke
• Shift selector switch mode from 4L to 4H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn On
2010

Electric shift 1. Faulty or damaged 9 Refer to self diagnosis
problems ECU, speed sensor,
clutch or internal
wiring
2. Damaged or worn 9 Overhaul and check for

shift cam, hub, wear and damage.
fork and rail shaft Replace if necessary
No front wheel 1. Broken drive chain 9 Check internal parts and

drive when replace if necessary
Shifted to 4WD.
Noise in 4WD Oil level lower than Drain old oil and replace with
operation. minimum required. Specified oil.
Make sure noise is Loosened bolts or Re-tighten as specified.

coming mounting parts
from Transfer case
and not from clutch, Noisy transfer case Disassemble bearings and
transmission, drive bearings parts and check for wear or
shaft, Automatic damage. Replace if
locking hubs or necessary.
other
Components. Noisy gears Check for wear and damage
Including speedometer gear
and replace if necessary
Worn or damaged Disassemble and check for

sprockets or wear and damage. Replace if
drive chain necessary
Incorrect tyre Adjust tyre pressure.

pressure.
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Transfer case oil Cracked transfer Replace the case.

leakage case.
Clean case and parts and
Leakage from other check for leakage.
parts.
Breather clogging. Remove breather barb and

clean it. Replace if
necessary.
Oil level higher than Use specified oil. Adjust oil

required or improper level
brand of oil being
used.
Loosened sealing Re-tighten.

bolts.
Improper brand of Use specified sealant and

sealant or retighten.
improperly applied
sealant
Worn or damaged oil Replace oil seal

seal
Care of the System –
Oil level Check – Every 10,000 Kms.

Oil replacement interval - Every 40,000 Kms.
Checking the Oil Level –
• Clean the oil level plug and surrounding area.

• Remove the oil level plug and check whether oil is dripping out.
• If oil is not dripping out, oil level must be below the required level.
Add specified oil to bring it to the level when it starts dripping out.
• Tighten the oil level plug.
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Precautions –
Before checking or removing the oil, warming up the transfer case is

necessary. This should be done by driving the vehicle for some time.
Do not use an impact wrench to open or tighten the drain and oil level
plugs. This may damage the threads in the transfer case.
Changing the Oil –
• Clean the oil level plug, drain plug and surrounding area.
• Place a container to collect oil, under the transfer case.
• Remove the drain plug.
• Remove the oil level plug.
• Let the oil drain out.
• Tighten the drain plug.
• Fill new oil through oil level plug, till it begins to drip out.
• Tighten the oil level plug.
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Removal & fitting on the vehicle –
1. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the T/case

2. Lift up the vehicle.
3. Remove transfer case drain and fluid plugs. Drain all fluid and reinstall
plugs.
4. Remove the breather tube.
5. Disconnect speedometer cable connector and switch connector.
6. Support the transfer case with the jack and disconnect the front and
rear propeller shafts from the transfer case
7. Remove the transfer case by removing the mounting nuts, attaching the
transfer case to transmission.
8. Remove the tuner assembly & tuner brackets.
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Dismantling –
Disassembly – Rear Flange.

• Position the Transfer case on
repair fixture.
• Holding the flange by flange
holder, remove the nut and
washer and then remove the
flange with the help of puller.
• Remove the oil seal from the
shaft.
• Remove the two oil plugs
from the cover.
Disassembly - Assembly Cover

(Motor, Speed sensor, Clutch coil
and Speedo Gear.
• Remove bolts and remove
Assembly Motor, Speed sensor
bracket and speed sensor.
• Separate clutch coil wire
terminal from the connector
and pull out from the sleeve.
• Remove the bolt and remove
Speedo body and separate
Assembly Speedo driven gear
& shaft and Speedo body.
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• Remove oil seal and Speedo

drive gear.
• Remove the 9 bolts and

identification tag.
• Pry at the bosses provided on
the cover and the case to
break the sealant bond of the
cover and the transfer case in
such a way that the metal
surface is not damaged.
• Remove the snap ring and pull
out the ball bearing from the
cover.
• Remove clutch coil from the
cover.
• Pull out the needle bearing
from the cover.
• Remove the magnet from the
slot in the case.
• Remove the return spring.
• Clean and remove the sealant
of the cover and case. Be
careful not to damage the
metal surface.
Disassembly – Lock – up Shift Part
• Remove clutch housing from

output shaft.
• Together slid 2W-4W lock up
assembly and lock up fork
from output shaft and
separate fork assembly and
Remove the two shift fork
facings from the shift fork
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assembly, if required.
• To dismantle 2W-4W lockup
assembly remove snap ring,
lock up hub return spring
from lock up collar.
Disassembly – Chain Drive
• Remove snap ring and spacer from the output shaft.

• Remove drive chain, driven sprocket and drive sprocket from the
output shaft at a time.
• Separate the chain and sprocket when removing the assembly.
Disassembly – Gerotor Pump
• Remove the coupler from the

case.
• Remove Assembly output
shaft and gerotor pump.
• Loosen the hose clamp and
remove the hose coupling
from the pump housing
• Remove hose clamp, hose
coupling and strainer
• Slide the Gerotor pump of the
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output shaft and remove the

output shaft.
Gerotot Pump is not
serviceable, ifrequired replace
pump as assembly.
Disassembly – Reduction Shift

Parts
• Remove rail shaft from the
case.
• Remove the reduction hub
and reduction fork assembly
from the case
• Remove the two shift fork
facings from the shift fork
Disassembly – Electrical Shift Cam

Parts
• Remove ASM shift shaft from

the case.
• Separate Cam, spring, Spacer
and shift shaft by pulling
outward.
Disassembly – Yoke & Output Shaft
• Holding the end yoke with the

yoke holder remove the nut,
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washer and then pull out the

front yoke assembly. Remove
seal oil.
• Remove the out put shaft.
• Press deflector from the yoke
only if replacement is
required.
Disassembly – Adaptor , Input

Shaft & Carrier Assembly
• Remove the breather barb.

• Remove the six bolts of
adapter.
• Remove the adapter by
separating the adapter sealer
bond (pry front adapter, take
care not to damage the
adapter or the case).
• Remove the adapter
assembly, input shaft
assembly and carrier gear
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assembly. (Expanding long

ends of the snap ring ;
separate the carrier and input
shaft assembly from the
adapter.).
• Remove snap ring and oil seal
from front adapter.
1. Remove snap ring and pull out Assembly Input shaft and sun gear
from Assembly Carrier.
2. After removing retaining ring, pull out the bearing and thrust
washer from input shaft.
3. Remove the needle bearing and sleeve bearing from input shaft
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Disassembly - Case
• Remove the oil seal.
• Remove the retaining ring and bearing.
• Remove the dowel pins from transfer case, if required.
• Do not remove ring gear from the case.
Cleaning –
Note: Before cleaning, check the magnet for the presence of metal
particles, which indicate internal chipping of the transfer case.
• Using a cleaning solvent, clean the old oil and dirt deposits
• After cleaning dry the parts with low-pressure (20 psi maximum)
compressed air.
• Lubricate the ball bearings and needle bearing with ATF oil.
• Protect lubricated bearings from dust.
Inspection –
Note: Always replace the hose coupling, O-ring and oil seal with new parts.
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• Visually check all the parts for damage.

• Referring to normal gear tooth face, specifically inspect the uneven
wear and chips of gear tooth. Replace or repair if necessary.
Assembly –
Do not use hammer to drive in the oil seal and bearing. Use special tools
for assembly.
Use a Torque Wrench to tighten threaded parts.
Torque values are specified in the torque chart.
Lubricate bearings, O-rings, bushings and matching metal parts
before assembly (with oil).
Assembly – Case
• Insert the two new dowel pins.
• Press the ball bearing into the case and install the retaining ring
(snap ring).
• Install the new oil seal, by pressing it into the case.
Make sure that all parts are correctly and firmly installed into the case.
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Assembly – Adaptor, Input Shaft & Carrier Assembly
• Press the needle bearing and the new sleeve bearing into the input
shaft (if removed).
• Install the sun gear onto the input shaft and put thrust plate, thrust
washer and press the bearing onto the input shaft.
• After pressing the bearing, install the retaining ring.
• Insert the above assembly into the planet carrier. (Ensure that planet
carrier assembly on the work bench is such that the retaining rings’
mounting groove faces upward).
• Install the retaining ring to the planet carrier.
Assembly – Adaptor, Input Shaft &

Carrier Assembly
• Press the spiral pin into the
front adapter.
• Press the oil seal into the front
adapter.
• Invert front adapter assembly.
Install snap ring by make sure
that snap ring is correctly
installed into the groove.
• Position the input shaft
assembly over front adapter
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and engage into bearing groove

by expanding the ends of snap
ring (Push Input shaft and
carrier assembly in to the front
adapter.).
• Apply 1.6 mm bead of sealant
on the mounting face for the
transfer case and tighten the
six bolts.
• Install the breather barb.
Assembly – Yoke
• Position the output shaft in
transfer case and install the
end yoke assembly, seal,
washer and nut.
• Holding the end yoke with the
help of yoke holder, tighten
the nut up to specified torque
• Turn the fixture for further
assembly.
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Assembly – Reduction Shift Parts

• Install the two forks facing on
the reduction shift fork
assembly.
• Install the reduction hub in to
the fork.
• Install reduction hub and fork
in to the planet carrier.
• Insert shift rail in reduction
fork bore, to match with case
bore.
Assembly – Electrical Shift Cam Parts

• Insert spacer into torsion spring ,insert the shift shaft into the
spacer. Slide electric cam on to the shift shaft.
• Slide the torsion spring and spacer to the right of the shift shaft and
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position the end of the first spring to fix on the drive tang.
• Position the cam on the second spring and rotated anticlockwise.
Push the end of the second spring to left with cam and fix it on the
drive tang.
• Install the electric shaft cam in to the case.
Assembly – Assembly Output Shaft

& Gerotor Pump
• Align rotor slot of the pump
and slot of the pump body in
line.
• Slide the pump assembly on the
output shaft over pump pin.
• Slip hose clamp over free end
of hose coupling with strainer
and push onto hose barb on
pump and tighten.
• Install the output shaft splines
into the reduction hub and
engage the output shaft end
with input shaft bearing.
• Couple strainer with case and
insert the magnet into the
transfer case slot.
Assembly – Chain Drive

• Position the drive sprocket to
the rear output shaft end and
driven sprocket to the front
output shaft end.
• Install the drive chain onto the
sprockets.
• Holding each sprocket with
drive chain tight and parallel
with transfer case, install the
drive chain assembly to the
output shafts.
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• Rotate the driven sprocket

slightly to engage splines on
the front output shaft.
• Install the spacer to the front
output shaft and insert snap
ring into the groove over
spacer.
Assembly – Lock-up Shift Part

• Install the lockup hub and
return spring to the lock up
collar and insert the snap ring.
• Install two new facings to the
fork.
• Engage the lockup fork in
groove in 2WD-4WD lock up
assembly and slide this group
down over drive sprocket and
rail shaft.
• Install clutch housing on out
put shaft.
Apply 1.6 mm bead of sealant
on the mounting face of the
case.
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Assembly – Assembly Cover

• Position the cover with the open end facing up on the table.
• Position the end of needle bearing with the identification mark up
and press into the cover (If removed).
• Press the ball bearing in to cover and install snap ring.
• Install the clutch coil assembly inside the cover, put wire bracket
and tighten three nuts.
• Install speed sensor assembly to the cover.
Assembly – Assembly Cover

• Align the cover holes with the transfer case dowel pins
• Align the cover bearings with output shafts
• Align shift shaft with cover boss.
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• Align the cover blind hole with rail shaft and make sure that return
spring is not cocked.
• Tighten nine bolts positioning identification tag.
• Align the motor with shift shaft and position the motor assembly on
to the cover.
• Install the motor to the shift shaft and contact cover. Rotate the
motor clockwise direction to check correct engagement.
• Install the bracket to the motor assembly and tighten three bolts.
• Tighten motor bracket bolt.
• Install to oil plug to the cover.
• Pass clutch coil wire through sensor wiring sleeve, connect clutch
coil terminal with the connector.
• Install motor connector and sensor connector to the motor bracket.
• Insert wiring in the respective Clip and crimp it properly.
• Install the Speedo gear over output shaft splines in the cover
assembly.
• Press the new oil seal into the cover assembly.
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Assembly – Rear Output Flange

Position the circular flange on the
upper output shaft in transfer case
and install the flange, seal, washer
and nut.
Holding the flange, tighten the nut
up to specified torque.
Electronic Control Unit and Self Diagnosis –
• Electronic Control Unit
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is located under the co-driver’s seat or under
dashboard. Driver operates a selector switch to shift the vehicle from two-
wheel drive to four-wheel drive (and vice versa). Shifting is possible during
driving (only in 2H to 4H mode).
Interconnections between ECU and other system blocks are as shown in the
circuit diagram for Bolero –
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Bolero 4 WD Electric Shift Circuit Diagram –
Electronic Control Unit and Self Diagnosis –
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Note : In case of malfunctioning in shifting, the 4WD HIGH and 4WD

LOW indicator lights will flash, simultaneously.
Self diagnosis of ECU :
ECU detects transfer case system malfunctions and indicates

malfunctioning part(s) through flashing indictor lights. The operator will be
alerted of fault condition by continuous illumination of both 4WD HI and
4WD LO lights on dashboard when ignition is On.
A service connector is provided to indicate the fault codes in binary.

Connect one end to the pin hole number 9 in ECU connector, and other end
to the ignition switch. The flashing of indicator light will show the
defective code (as illustrated in the table). Identify the malfunctioning
part and replace it.
L1 L2 L3 Binary Decimal Fault with

code equivalent
Off Off On 001 1 ECU Module
Off On Off 010 2 Shift Motor
Off On On 011 3 Synchronizer Clutch
On Off Off 100 4 Speed Sensor
On On Off 110 6 Selector switch
On On On 111 7 Motor Position Switch
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Note –
Before replacing the malfunctioning parts with defective codes, check

the wires and connectors for proper condition.
Use only 12v 3-watt bulb for diagnostic purpose.
If only one part is malfunctioning, the indicator light will display defective
code three times continuously. If more than two parts are malfunctioning,
the first malfunctioning part will be displayed three times and then the
other malfunctioning parts will be displayed.
After repair, clear the fault stored in the memory. Ground the service
connector and keep ignition ‘On’ for five seconds continuously to erase
defective code.
Self diagnosis of ECU –
Connect a service connector as described earlier. Turn the ignition switch

On. 4WD CHECK indicator will turn On for 0.6 seconds and turn Off for 3
seconds. Then it will display a defective code 3 times continuously.
The chart for the defect codes is enclosed -----
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Bolt location Torque Values

Level & Drain Plug 35 ± 7 Nm (26 ± 5 lbf-ft)
Flange Nut 365 ± 15 Nm (269 ± 11 lbf-ft)
Front Yoke Nut 225 ± 25 Nm (166 ± 18 lbf-ft)
Case Bolts 35 ± 7 Nm (26 ± 5 lbf-ft)
Motor bolts, and coil nuts 9.5 ± 1.5 Nm (7 ± 1 lbf-ft)
Speedo body bolt 9.5 ± 1.5 Nm (7 ± 1 lbf-ft)
Breather Barb 14 ± 5 Nm (10 ± 4 lbf-ft)
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Special Tools –
11
10
Description Borg Warner Part No.

Yoke Holder - 1 T-10001
Seal Driver - 2 T-10003
Snap ring plier Adapter - 3 T-10007
Snap ring plier - 4 T-10006
Drift ball bearing - 5 T-10053
Drift ball bearing Input shaft - 6 T-10056
Drift NRB fitting Input shaft - 7 T-10054
Drift Bush fitting Input shaft - 8 T-10055
Drift NRB fitting Cover- 9 T-10057
Repair Fixture - 10 T-10037
Flange Holder - 11 T-10012
Dust Deflector Press Tool - 12 T-10188
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Specifications – Transfer Case 4555 (Electrical Shift)
Configuration Part time, Single Offset
Circular flange
Rear Output Configuration
Fixed Yoke
Front Output Configuration
Female Splines
Input Configuration
Right hand
Offset hand
Force lubrication by Gerotor pump
Lubrication System
Castrol ATF - TQ,
IOC- Servo Transfluid A
Lubricating Fluid Type
Chemoleium -A
HPCL ATF - A
Housing Material Aluminum
Dry Weight in Kgs. 29.5 Kgs. Approx.
1.2 Approx.
Fluid Capacity in liter
Shift Pattern 2H – 4H – 4L
Selector Switch
Shift Control
4WDH Shift –on the Fly Yes
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Automatic Locking Hub –
When 4-wheel drive is selected, the automatic hub locks the axle shaft to
the wheel hub. This occurs when the vehicle is driven in either forward or
reverse direction. The hub unlocks when 2-wheel drive is selected, and the
vehicle is driven in the opposite direction for a few feet.
Construction –
The 4 Tanged washers are held in place on the Wheel Spindle. The cut-
outs on the drag sleeve (26) fit over the tangs on the washer, preventing
the drag sleeve from rotating. The brake band (24) fits over the serrated
portion of the drag sleeve. The tangs of the brake band are fitted through
the window in the steel inner cage (21). The plastic outer cage (20) fits
over the inner cage. Each tang of the brake band fits through each cutout
in the outer cage. The cam follower (19) is attached to the clutch gear
(15). The follower profile on the cam follower (A) ride against the cam
faces or ramps of the steel inner cage. The clutch gear slides on the splines
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on the out side the hub sleeve (16). The axle shaft(C) is splined to the
inside of the hub sleeve. The large teeth on the outside of the clutch gear
can engage the teeth inside the outer clutch housing (9).The outer clutch
housing is bolted to the wheel hub. An End Cap (2) fits over the hub lock
assembly. The end cap contains a bearing assembly (6) that supports the
other end of the hub sleeve. The End Cap is fitted with an Aluminium
Decorative Plate(1) for better aesthetics.
Briefly, this is what happens when the hub locks -

The clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) rotate up the cam face of the
inner cage (21). This causes the clutch gear to move outward on the hub
sleeve (16). The out side teeth of the clutch gear engage the inside teeth
of the outer clutch housing (9), locking the wheel hub to the axle shaft.
When the hub un-locks,
The clutch gear and cam follower rotate in the opposite direction, back
down the cam face of the inner cage. Spring pressure forces the clutch
gear inward, unlocking the wheel hub from the axle shaft.
Operation –
Now, let’s see how the hub operates in detail. When 4-wheel drive is
engaged (and vehicle starts to move ), the axle shaft starts to turn the hub
sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The steel inner cage
(21) and plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag
sleeve (26) is fixed to the wheel spindle and doesn’t rotate) When the
inner cage window hits the first brake band tang (30) the band tightens up
on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is
forced up the ramp of the inner cage (21).
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12
13
14
15
19
16
30
26
Now, let’s see how the hub operates in detail. When 4-wheel drive is
engaged (and vehicle starts to move), the axle shaft starts to turn the hub
sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The steel inner cage
(21) and plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag
sleeve (26) is fixed to the wheel spindle and doesn’t rotate) When the
inner cage window hits the first brake band tang (30) the band tightens up
on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is
forced up the ramp of the inner cage (21).
As the cam follower moves up the ramp of the inner cage, it is moved
outward along the hub sleeve (16), pushing the clutch gear (15) into
engagement with the outer clutch housing. The cam follower (19) also
pushes against the lugs of the outer cage (20). The outer cage tang
contacts the second brake band tang (30). This unlocks the brake band and
allows it to turn freely on the drag sleeve serration’s.
When 2-wheel drive is selected to disengage the hubs, and the vehicle is
driven in the opposite direction for a few feet, the rotating front wheel
turns the outer clutch housing, clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) in
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the opposite direction. The cam follower moves down the ramp of the
inner cage (20). The return spring (14) pushes the clutch gear (15) along
the hub sleeve (16) and out of engagement with the outer clutch housing.
Trouble shooting –
Symptoms Causes Remedial Action

Oil Leakage A cracked or porous or Replace the end cap.
Make sure that a improper fitment of
suspected oil leak is protective end cap.
actually coming from
the hub. Oil leaks can Damaged or missing Fit a new ‘O’ ring.
originate in the axle “O” rings.
shaft (oil seal).
Incorrectly installed or Fit properly
damaged sealing ring
of the End Cap and
outer clutch housing.
Does not engage or Transfer case not Rectify
Disengage. engaging or
Before disassembly of disengaging front axle
a locking hub, be sure shaft.
the problem is caused
by the hub and not Viscosity of front Check & fill proper
another component differential lubricant lubricant.
in the drive train. too high (i.e. due to
cold weather).
Front differential pre- Rectify

load too high.
Seized front axle shaft Rectify / Replace

bearing.
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Noisy Operation –
A broken or missing 4 tanged washer can cause problems in 2 or 4 - wheel

drive.
A broken or missing washer will allow the drag sleeve to rotate with the
brake band . If the hub are not engaged , the brake band is unable to lock
on the drag sleeve and initiate the locking action of the clutches. If the
hubs are engaged, the brake band can not be released to allow the clutch
gear to disengage.
A broken or missing brake band cannot lock the inner cage to engage the
hub or be unlocked by the outer sleeve to allow the clutch gear to
disengage.
If both brake band tangs are touching the centre post of the outer sleeve,
there cannot be proper locking or unlocking action of the brake band
through the movement of the inner cage and outer cage. The centre post
of the outer cage and the window of the inner cage move relative to each
other when the hub is locking or unlocking. If the cages are not rotating
freely over each other, the hub may fail to engage or disengage.
A sticking clutch gear can cause the hub to bind in either the engage or the
disengage position. A broken return spring will cause the hub to remain in
the engaged position.
In each case, the defective component should be replaced with the correct
part or assembly. Always check the most recent parts list for the correct
part numbers and available assemblies for the type of the hub you are
servicing.
Lubrication –
The automatic hub lock should be lubricated at every 40000 Kms.
• Remove drag sleeve assembly and keep aside, DO NOT lubricate drag
sleeve assembly as it is permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• Check the brake band and drag sleeve serration for presence of
appropriate quantity of grease and wear, in case of insufficient
grease, replace the drag sleeve.
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• DO NOT remove the brake band as this could change the spring
tension and affect hub operation.
• All components except drag sleeve assembly and outer bearing race
assembly are lubricated by dipping them in automatic transmission
fluid. Allow excess fluid to drip off before assembling the hub.
• Lubricate the outer bearing race with light wheel bearing grease.
DO NOT use axle grease.
Removal & Installation of Automatic Locking Hub –
Removal –
Loosen the end cap with the help of

pin spanner
Remove 6 nos. bolts
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Pull out ALH from the wheel hub.
Installation of Automatic Locking Hub –
1. Make sure that the snap ring and spacer is installed on the axle shaft.
2. Make sure that the slots on the Drag Sleeve are engaging with the 4-
tanged washer. Install the Hub Lock in the wheel hub.
3. Rotate the Hub Lock to match the threaded holes of the wheel hub.
Put 6 nos. bolts face to face.
4. Tighten 6 nos. bolts with the help of special Allen key to 5.5 to 6.5
kg-m torque using Torque Wrench.
5. Tight the end cap with the help of pin spanner.
Disassembly of Automatic Locking Hub –
Remove the end cap and bearing race spring. Remove the bearing inner
race and retainer.
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Invert assembly vertically so the

drag sleeve comes up.
Remove the snap ring with suitable

plier. Exercise caution while
removing the snap ring.
Remove the drag sleeve with brake

band. To lift out the drag sleeve,
rotate it slightly to release the brake
band tangs from the sleeves and tilt
it up on the side opposite the tangs.
Note the position of the components for correct assembly.
The clip doesn’t need to be removed

for the normal servicing. However, if
it’s damaged, remove it using
thumbnail force only to avoid
stretching or distorting it. Do not
remove the brake band for normal
servicing.
Remove the large snap ring from the

outer clutch housing.
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Remove the steel inner cage by

pressing it over the tang of the outer
cage (in the window). Lift the inner
cage straight out, don’t tilt it.
Remove the plastic outer cage by

prying one lug out of the large
groove in the outer clutch housing.
Hold the lug and go on to the next
one. It’s easiest to start with the
lugs opposite the one that fits into
the window of the steel inner cage.
Slide the cam & follower assembly

out of the outer clutch housing.
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Cleaning –
• Using a cleaning solvent, clean the all the parts except DRAGE SLEEVE
since it is permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• After cleaning dry the parts with low pressure (20 psi maximum)
compressed air.
• Lubricate the bearings race with light wheel bearing grease and cam
& follower assembly with ATF oil. Protect lubricated parts from dust.
Inspection –
• Visually check all the parts for damage.
• Examine the protective end cap for

cracks, O - ring.
• Brake band for damage or distortion.
• Also, inspect the teeth on the cam

follower, clutch gear and outer clutch
housing for wear or damage.
When diagnosing a “ratcheting” hub, remember that the noisy hub is

“NOT” always the defective one. It depends on whether the hubs have just
been disengaged. Let’s examine why.
If only one hub disengages after 2-wheel drive is selected, the faulty hub
transmits the wheel rotation to the axle shaft. The mechanical situation is
like a conventional axle raised off the ground. The axle shaft drives the
differential pinions through the side gear. The ring gear and cage are not
turning, so the other side gear and axle shaft are driven in the opposite
direction to the first one. The axle shaft tries to engage the hub against
the direction of the wheel rotation, causing the noise from the hub. In this
case, the faulty hub is not making the noise. The non-noisy hub should be
checked. If 4-wheel drive is selected and only one hub engages, there may
not be any noise from the hub, depending on the malfunction. The only
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symptom might be a loss of drive at that hub. If the hub is “ratcheting” in

4-wheel drive, it should be inspected.
Assembly –
Following assemblies are to be replaced as sub-assemblies only-- (if

replacement is needed)
Assembly Cam Assembly Drag

& Follower Sleeve
Install the cam & follower assembly

into the outer clutch housing from
the inside.
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Install the plastic outer cage into the large groove in the outer clutch
housing. The cage may be easier to install if the tangs on the each side of
the cutout are installed first.
Install the steel inner cage inside

B the plastic outer cage. (For clarity,
A the cages on the right are shown
outside the hub.) The window (A)
must engage the tang (B) of the
outer cage for correct positioning.
Install the large snap ring in the top

groove of the outer clutch housing.
Install the drag sleeve assembly in

the inner cage, so that the tangs of
C the brake band are located on each
side of the outer cage tang (C)and in
the window of the inner cage. Tilt
the drag sleeve slightly to engage
the tangs, but be careful not to cock
the hub sleeve.
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Install the snap ring to the hub

sleeve.
Install the outer bearing assembly, with the retainer and bearing facing the
interior of the hub and the cap facing out.
Install the assembly end cap with the bearing race spring.
Ensure that the ALH is in ‘Unlock ‘

mode while installing on the wheel
hub.
Description Torque Value

Allen Bolts (6 Nos.) 59 ± 5 Nm (43 ± 4 lbf-ft)
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Special Tools –
1
2
Description Borg Warner Part No.

Pin Spanner - 1 T 10068
Special Allen for M10 Bolts - 2 T 10099
Specifications –
Input Configuration Female Splines

Output Configuration Bolted Flange
(M10 X 25MM, 6Nos.Bolts)
Location 74 mm dia and ‘O’ Ring for water
resistance
Working Principle Automatic Locking
Projected Length over from the 74.0 mm ( Nominal )
face of the wheel hub
Lubricant :
Assembly Drag Sleeve - Darmex grease
Assembly Cam & Follower- ATF Castrol -TQ or Dexron II
Assembly Bearing Race - Light wheel bearing grease
Locking & Unlocking in degrees 900 Deg. ( Clockwise & Counter

Clockwise )
Gross Weight 1.75 Kgs. Approx.
Appearance Black Powder Coated with
Aluminium Decorative Plate
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Content
Propeller Shaft SUV
Propeller Shaft SC/DC
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Propeller Shaft SUV
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Propeller Shaft SC/DC
Contents
Description
Trouble shooting
In car repairs
Care of the system
Repairs
Specifications & Wear Limits
Tightening Torques
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Description
The function of the propeller shaft is to transmit power from one point
to another. The shaft is designed to transmit torque from transmission /
transfer case to the axle.
The propeller shaft has to operate through constantly changing length

while transmitting torque. The axle rides suspended by spring in floating
motion. The propeller shaft must be able to change the transmission
angle when going through the various road surfaces. This is done
through Universal joints which permit the propeller shaft top operates
at different angles. The slip joint or the yokes allow the cotntratction or
expansion of the propeller shaft thus allowing the length to change.
The propeller shaft is built with the yoke lugs in line with each other,
which is called phasing. This design produces the smoothest running
condition. An out of phase shaft can cause a vibration.
The propeller shaft is 2 piece with a centre bearing construction.

The view of the split propeller shaft is shown below.
The details of the centre bearing are shown below.
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While assembling the split propeller shaft –
1. Locate the centre bearing assembly- keep the bolts loose in the slot
of the chassis.
2. Locate & tighten the propeller shaft flange at the gearbox end.
3. Tighten the centre bearings mounting bracket bolts.
4. Fit the rear propeller shaft.
This procedure is important; in order to avoid straining the centre

bearing Failure to do so will result in transmission noise and
premature failure of the centre bearing
Trouble shooting –
Tyres that are out of round or wheels that are out of balance cause a
low frequency vibration.
Brake drums that are unbalanced cause a harsh low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibrations can also result from loose or damaged engine
mountings.
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Propeller shaft vibrations will keep on increasing as the vehicle speed

increase. The propeller shaft does not cause a vibration that is present
only in a narrow speed range.
Drive condition Possible cause Correction

Propeller shaft 1. Undercoating or Clean exterior of shaft &
other foreign on the wash with solvent.
shaft.
2. Loose companion Tighten the mounting
flange mounting bolts.
bolts.
3. Worn out yoke/slip Replace the joint/yoke.
joint.
4. Excessive runout. Check runout- replace
shaft.
5. Incorrect drive line Correct angularity.
angularity.
6. Worn UJ bearings. Replace the UJ.
7. Propeller shaft Replace the propeller
damaged or bent. shaft.
8. Broken rear springs. Replace the rear
springs.
9. Excessive runout or Reindex the propeller
unbalanced shaft by 180°, test and
condition. correct as required.
10. Excessive pinion Reindex the propeller
shaft runout. shaft by 180°, test and
correct as required
Universal Joint UJ worn out Replace the UJ

Noise
In car repairs –
Unbalance
Runout
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Unbalance –
If the propellers shaft unbalance is suspected then it can be verified by

the following procedure.
Removing & rendering the propeller shaft by 180° may eliminate

some vibrations.
Clean all the foreign material from

propeller shaft and the universal
joint.
Inspect the propeller shaft for missing
balance weight, broken welds and
bent areas.
If the propeller shaft is bent then it
must be replaced.
Ensure that the propeller shaft is not
worn, are properly installed and are
correctly aligned with the propeller
shaft
Check the companion flange mounting
bolts.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the wheel & tyres.
Install the wheel nuts to lock the
brake drum.
Mark & number the shaft 6 inches

from pinion end at four positions 90°
apart.
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Run and accelerate the engine until

vibration occurs. Note the intensity &
1 2 the speed at which the vibration
occurs.
Install a screw clamp at position “1”
Start the engine and recheck for

1 2 vibrations. If there is little or no
change in vibrations then move the
clamp or of the other 3 positions.
If there is no difference in vibration at the other position then the
vibration is not due to the propeller shaft imbalance.
If the vibration decreases, install a

second clamp and repeat the test.
If the clamps cause an additional

imbalance, separate the clamp (¼ inch
above & below the mark.). Repeat the
vibration test.
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Increase the distance between the

clamps until the vibration is at the
lowest level.
At this position bend the slack end of

the clamp so that it does not loosen.
Install the wheel & tyres. Lower the
vehicle.
If the amount of the vibration remains unacceptable then repeat the

exercise at the Gearbox end.
Runout
Remove dirt, rust, paint &

undercoating from the propeller shaft
surface.
The dial indicator must be installed

perpendicular to the shaft surface.
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Measure the runout at the center and

at the ends – away from the weld.
Replace the propeller shaft if the runout is beyond the specified

limit.
Care of the system --
Caution:
Before undercoating a vehicle with any underbody protection. The
propeller shaft and the UJ’s should be covered. This will prevent the
undercoating from causing an unbalanced condition and vibration.
Use the exact replacement hardware for attaching the propeller shafts.
The specified torque’s must always be applied when tightening the
mounting bolts.
9 The UJ to be greased at every service.

9 The slip joint should be lubricated every 10,000 Kms.
The procedure of greasing is as follows –
2010
1. Inspect the Sliding yoke for Grease & play; fill the grease through the
grease nipple with pressurized gun.
2. Inspect the Universal Joint for Grease & play; fill the grease through
the grease nipple with pressurized gun.
Repairs --
Lift the vehicle
Put aligning marks on the flange,

UJ and propeller shaft before
removal.
Do not use a punch to mark

impression.
Remove the mounting bolts at the

pinion end
Remove the mounting bolts at the

gearbox end.
It is important to protect the

machined, external surface of the
yoke from damage after propeller
2010
shaft removal. Any damage in the

machined surface will lead to
damage of the seal and cause a
leak.
Remove the circlips holding the UJ

in place.
Applying the socket wrench on the

outside of the propeller shaft
flange, force out one end of UJ
using a vice as shown. (One end 32
mm socket to receive other end
21-mm socket to push.)
While assembling- insert both ends

then hold & press fit them with
special tool.
2010
Specification & Wear Limits –
Description 2WD 4WD
Length (Joint to Joint)

x O.D x thickness in
mm
Rear 1023.5x70x2 727.5x70x2
Front ( Diesel) 479.6x 44.45x3.25
Rear ( GB –c/brg)-Split 132.8x 63.5x2.1
propeller
Rear ( centre brg to 761.4x63.5x2.1
axle) Split propeller
Runout Diesel 0.5 mm TIR at centre
Location Torque Nm (lbf-ft)

Flange bolt 60 ± 5 Nm (44 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Center bearing mounting 87 ± 15 Nm (65 ± 12 lbf-ft)
bracket
Companion Flange nuts at 60.5 ±5.5 Nm (45 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Transmission & Axle end
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Rear Suspension
Rear Suspension - SUV

Rear Suspension - SC/DC
2010
Multilink Rear Suspension - SUV
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Shock Absorbers
Coil Spring Replacement
Bush Replacement
Specifications
Tightening Torques

Description
The rear suspension is with coil spring and five links. This type of rear suspension
provides more comfort & better handling characteristics of the vehicle.
The suspension encompasses Upper Links, lower links, Pan hard Rod. Coil springs &
Shock Absorbers.The upper & lower links are tubular with rubber bushes press fitted
on both ends. The lower links are taking the loads due to acceleration & braking. The
upper links mainly are used to guide and to some extent share the lateral loads. One
end of the links is connected to the chassis while the other end is at axle.
The Pan hard rod is connected between the axle & the chassis .It takes all the
transverse loads experienced during cornering controlling the axle movement in lateral
direction.
The anti roll bars are used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel during turns.
The coil springs absorb the road shocks due to terrain & different load conditions. The
shock absorbers dampen the oscillations of the vehicle. The rubber bumper fitted on
the chassis reduces the impact loads into the body.
The bonded rubber silent blocks / bushings are press fitted & does not require
lubrication with oil. (Also should never be lubricated). While jacking up the vehicle
the jack should always be put below the axle only. Under any circumstances the
vehicle should not be jacked up putting the jack below any of the link including
Pan hard rod.
While lifting the vehicle, if the resting pads are pressing against any of
l lower links, then there is a strong possibility that lower links may get
bent.

Problem Possible causes Correction
Vehicle tending to Permanent distortion or Replace.
be lower on one breakage of coil spring
side & poor ride.
Poor ride Stabilizer link rod loose Tighten. If required
( excessive pitching add washer between
or roll) nut & link.
Unsmooth operation of shock Replace.
absorber
Installation of wrong shock Replace with proper
absorber parts.
Installation of wrong coil spring
Replace with proper
parts
Bouncy ride Breakage of coil spring Replace.
Over inflation pressure of tyre Adjust.
Unsuitable installation Adjust or replace the

(maximum and/or minimum coil springs with new
length) of shock absorber ones.
Deformation or damage of
bushing Replace with proper
parts.
Oil leakage of shock absorber
Replace
Bouncy ride/ Fault in operation of shock Replace.
pitching/ roll. absorber
Damage or deformation of Replace.

shock absorber mount
Deformation or damage of Replace.

shock absorber
Anti roll bar link loose Retighten.
Noise Wear or damage of shock Replace

absorber component parts
Loosening of suspension link Retighten to the

installing bolt specified torque.
Deformation or loss of bushing Replace.

Unsuitability of maximum Replace with proper

and/or minimum length of parts.
shock absorber
Breakage of coil spring

Replace
Wear or damage of ball joint.
Replace
Deformation of stabilizer
clamp. Retighten to the
specified torque
Link nut loose Retighten to the
specified torque

In Car Repairs –
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedures/ guidelines are

1. Shock Absorber
2. Coil spring
Shock Absorber –
40 ± 10 Nm 1
(30 ± 7 lb-ft)
2
40 ± 10 Nm
(30 ± 7 lb-ft)
1. Remove the upper attaching nut, washer & bolt.
2. Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer from the axle.
3. Remove the shock absorber. ( Check Point A )

Coil Spring –
1. Remove the stabilizer bar.
2. Remove the coil springs. ( Check Point B )
3. Separate the rubber spring seat.
Suspension Overhaul / Bush Replacement –
Note: For disassembling the suspension, the vehicle should be placed on

the level ground/ four post lift. A two post lift can be used for convenience
only for loosening the fasteners if a four post lift is not available.
2
5

90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
1. Loosen & remove Pan hard Rod by removing nuts, bolts & washers.
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)

2. Loosen & remove Lower link assembly.
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
3. Loosen & remove Upper link assembly.
4. Loosen & remove shock absorber.
40 ± 10 Nm
(30 ±7 lb-ft)

5. Loosen & remove Stabilizer link nuts.
6. To remove & refit the link bushes. Use the MST in the mechanical press. (Refer
Check point C)
Ensure that the bushes are lubricated with soap solution only. Under no circumstance
use any mineral oil or grease; as they degrade the bushes.
Stabilizer Bar Link Replacement –
1. Loosen & remove the stabilizer link upper nut.
2. Loosen & remove the stabilizer bar link lower nut & remove the stabilizer bar link
assembly. (Check Point D)

Stabilizer Bar Bush Replacement –
2 2
Note: The vehicle should be parked on ground/ four post lift such that all four
wheels will be resting on the level surface.
1) Loosen & Remove stab link nuts & the stabilizer bar mounting bolts.
2) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
3) Change the old bushes with new one.
Note: While assembling ensure that the bushes are liberally

lubricated with soap water.
Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of the suspension
bush including the link bushes / stabilizer bar / shock absorber bushes.

Check Points –
A)
The proper orientation of the cup

washers at the bottom end of the
shock absorbers should be ensured.
B)
While fitting the coil spring back ;

The correct orientation should be
ensured.
If the coil spring is held vertically;

the flat end coil should be facing
upwards (Towards the Chassis) &
curved towards the axle.
C)
Ensure the fitment of proper stab

link assembly & proper orientation
on both sides.

D)
Protecting sleeve
A Special tool for removing

Bush
Support Block.
For removing the bush from the

link following sequence should be
followed – ( Refer Photograph)
1. Place link on the support block

as shown.
2. Insert the spigot in the centre
hole of the bush.
3. Place the protecting sleeve on
MST --- such that the spigot
will not get damaged because
of the mechanical press screw.
4. Tighten the mechanical press
screw & remove the bush.
Note :
Use the side A of the tool while
pressing the lower or upper link
bushes.
The side B has to be used while
removing & installing the
transverse link/ Pan hard rod
(The width of the bushes are
different)

Specifications –
Description Specification
Type Multi link with stabilizer Bar &

telescopic shock absorbers
Rear Shock absorbers Maximum length – 503 ± 3.0 mm
Minimum length – 314 ± 3.0 mm
Stroke – 189 mm
Dampening Force –
Expansion – 148 ± 21 mm
Contraction – 71 ± 13 mm
Coil spring Load Identification

1 yellow Dot / Line
2 yellow Dots/Line
Tyre Pressure in all for wheels 32 PSI / 2.2 Bar

Description Value
Pan hard rod – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Upper Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Lower Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer link Nut 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer Bar Mounting Bolts 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Shock Absorber Nut – Upper & lower 40 ± 10 Nm (30 ± 7 lb-ft)

Rear Suspension - SC/DC
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Shock Absorbers
Spring Leaves
Tightening Torques

Description
The rear suspension is a progressively rated multi leaf spring with

double acting shock absorber. The front end of the springs is mounted
at the pivot end through rubber bushings. The bushings isolate the road
noise and road harshness as the springs move. The rear end of the
spring is connected to the springs through shackle
Again the spring and shackles use the rubber bushes to isolate the
noise and road harshness. The shackles allow the variation of the spring
length when the vehicle moves over the different terrain causing the
wheel to move up and down.
The travel of the spring is controlled by bumper, which is mounted on

the axle. The springs are connected to the axle with U-bolts and spring
plate. All suspension components that use rubber bushings should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal height. If the springs were not at
normal ride height condition the ride quality would be affected and
also the life of rubber will also be affected. Rubber bushings must
never be lubricated.

The ride control is achieved by the use of double acting shock absorbers
and leaf springs. The shock absorbers dampen the jolt and the rebound
as the vehicle travels over the various road conditions. The top end of
the shock absorber is connected to the chassis while the bottom end is
connected to axle.
The anti roll bars are used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel
during turns. They have been introduced effective Serial number
32A98547.
A sketch of the antiroll bars in rear with spring, shock absorber & axle
is shown below.
Trouble Shooting
A squeak noise from the shock absorber can be produced if movement

between the rubber bushing and metal occurs. Tightening the attaching
parts can usually stop this noise. If the squeak noise persist then
inspect for worn or damaged bushings and attaching components.
Repair as necessary if any thing found amiss.

The shock absorber bushings do not require any kind of lubrication. Do

not lubricate the bushings to reduce bushing noise. Grease or mineral
oil base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjustable. If a malfunction

occurs, the shock absorber must be replaced. To test a shock absorber
hold it upright in fully extended position for 10 minutes. Then force the
piston in and out of the cylinder four or five times. Also check for any
hydraulic oil leakage. The action throughout each stroke should be
smooth and even.

Suspension Noise 1. Check if mud is 9 Clean with
between the leaf pressurized water.
springs.
2. Check tip insert if 9 Replace the tip
broken/ worn between the leaves.
out. 9 Replace the bushes.
3. Check bushes. 9 Tighten the shock
4. Check shock absorber mounting
absorber bush- bolt or replace the
worn out/ loose. bushes.
9 Replace the spring
5. Check leaf assembly.
breakage.
Vehicle ride Jumpy/ 1. Improper tyre 9 Keep tyre pressure as
Jerky pressure. recommended.
2. Shock absorber 9 Replace the shock
bushes worn out. absorber.
3. Spring leaf 9 Replace the bushes.
bushes worn out.
4. Shock absorbers 9 Check the shock
leaking/ weak. absorber and replace
if required.
5. Leaf spring 9 Check the bump
sagging / broken. clearance as per the
specified procedure.
Replace springs.

Shock Absorber –
Remove the upper attaching nut and washer.

Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer and bolts from the axle.
Remove the shock absorber.
While fitting ensure that they are tightened to a torque of 45 to 55 Nm

(33 to 40 Lb ft)
Leaf Spring
Bush Replacement
Leaf replacement
Bush replacement
Pivot end bush replacement.
Shackle end bush replacement.
Pivot end bush replacement.
Support the vehicle in chassis

1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.
2. Remove the pivot mounting bolts by rotating and pulling.
3. Pull out inner bush by pulling it out
4. Lower the axle and bring the spring out of pivot.
5. Remove the bush by pulling it out.

Step 3
Step 1
Step 2
Step 5
Shackle end bush replacement.
1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.

2. Remove the shackle / pivot mounting bolts.
3. Pull out the one bush at a time. Each eye is having two collared
bushes. They can be pulled out
Step 3
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3

While assembling ensure that:

) The rubber bushes are liberally coated with soap water.
) The hole in the center of the pivot and the hanger bracket are
clean and not blocked by mud. (The hole is provided so that while
assembling the air should not get trapped between the two
bushes- preventing proper assembly.)
) The eyes in spring and pivot/ shackle are properly aligned before
the bushes are inserted.
After the bushes are inserted, remove the support from the chassis &
axle (if used) and then tighten the pivot and shackle bolts to 50 to 70
Nm (37 to 52 Lb ft).
Leaf Replacement –
The leaf springs need to be replaced only if the springs are broken or
are sagging.
To check for the spring sagging it is recommended that bump clearance

in unladen conditions is measured.
The bump clearance has to measured after ensuring that

) The vehicle is in level ground.
) It is unladen.
) The tyre pressure is as per the recommendations and also no
variation between left and right tyres.
) The bump stop is not in deteriorated or damaged condition.
The bump clearance is 85± 10 mm and the variation between Left and
right is allowed to be 7 mm
Recambering of the spring is not recommended. (Please note that

the spring is of progressive type – any recambering will result in the
ride becoming linear as well as stiff.

Description Torque
Bolt – Leaf spring pivot 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shackle at chassis 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shackle at Spring 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
U Bolt 90 ± 10 Nm (67 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shock absorber top 50 ± 5 Nm (37 ± 3 Lb ft)
Shock absorber bottom 50 ± 5 Nm (37 ± 3 Lb ft)

HVAC
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Control panel
Specification

Description -
The Heater, Ventilation and Air conditioning combines air conditioning, heating
and ventilating functions.
The system comprises of:
9 Blower & Air Inlet system

9 Heater core and Air distribution assembly.
9 Air Conditioning system.
Air conditioning System
The system uses non-CFC refrigerant R134A.
In case of Scorpio Gasoline vehicle, there is no separate. There is Dual Electric

Fan.
The refrigerant at low pressure and temperature enters the compressor where it is
compressed and its pressure and temperature increase. The refrigerant after
leaving compressor enters condenser and here it is condensed into high-pressure
liquid and is collected in receiver drier. From the receiver drier it passes through
expansion valve where it is throttled down to a low temperature and pressure.
After finding its way through expansion valve it finally passes into evaporator coil
where it extracts heat from surrounding. The refrigerant, which was in low-
pressure liquid state, converts to low-pressure vapour. The low-pressure vapour
then again enters the compressor.
The incoming air (in fresh mode or recycle mode) passes through a particle filter
& then gets cooled and dehumidified by the evaporator. The evaporator is in
operation all the times unless the AC switch is kept in off condition. To maintain
minimum evaporator temperature a fixed thermostat-setting switch controls the
compressor clutch. This switch which is called Anti freeze switch has a probe so
that it touches the coldest part of the evaporator is used to avoid formation of
ice. (If ice formation is allowed then the ice formed prevents exchange of heat
thus reducing the cooling and forcing the compressor to work continuously/
longer period leading to low cooling as well as system failure.)
The evaporator always cools the incoming air (recirculated or fresh) to an

amount set by the fixed thermostat value. The cooled air later goes through the
heater coil. Thus the final air temperature is dependent on the amount of hot
water passing through the heater.

For example when the control panel thermostat is set to the coldest value then
no quantity of hot water goes through the heater and the final outcome is only
the cold air. As the control panel’s knob is moved towards the hotter the mixing
start i.e. the quantity of hot water going through the heater starts increasing
proportionately.
It should be borne in mind that when the engine is cold the temperature of
incoming water is low, hence to get a desired temperature the knob will have to
be set any given position. However as the engine warms up the water coming to
the heater also gets warmer, thus the final out coming air temperature will raise.
As a result after the engine warms up the knob in the panel will have to be
readjusted to get the same out coming air temperature.
Pressure Sensor: It is mounted on Receiver drier.
High-Low Pressure operation: If the system pressure becomes low (i.e. around 2
bars) then it switches off the compressor. Thus in the case of refrigerant loss due
to any system leak the compressor failure is avoided. Once the pressure
increases above 32 bars then the compressor is shut off to avoid any system
failure. If the system pressure falls due to any leaks then the compressor is
switched off.
Medium pressure operation: When the pressure in the system goes above 18 bars
then it switches on the electric fan. As the pressure reduces below 14 bar the
electric fan is switched off.

AC Performance Test --
This test has to be done in shade and at an ambient temperature of 30 to 40

degrees maximum. If the ambient temperature is more than that, then please
take the vehicle to the coolest area available in shade and then carry out the
test.
A. Start the engine, switch on the AC and keep the Engine RPM at 1500.
B. Set the Blower to 3rd speed, the ventilation mode to be set to chest and
recirculation mode. The temperature control should be set to the coolest.
1. These tests have to be performed at ambient temperature ranging from

300 – 400 C.
2. Vehicle must be in shed with bonnet closed and engine speed should be
set at 1500 RPM with AC on.
3. Blower to be set in 3rd speed, ventilation to be set recirculation mode and
temperature control to be set to the maximum cool.
4. In 10 minutes close door test the average grill temperature should be less than
120 C. (Open Door Test - in 10 minutes open door test the drop in average grill
temperature with respect to ambient temperature should be 150 C).
Note: In normal conditions:
The low side pressure should be 1.5 to 2.5 bars.
At the High pressure side the pressure should be 14 to 20 bars.
This is with reference to the ambient temperature of 30 to 35° C.

If the ambient temperature is different from the range, refer to the chart for getting
the range of suction and discharge pressures.

Low pressure side Evaporator flooding due 9 Remove

pressure high to Block valve stuck refrigerant
Ps>2.5to 2.9 open. 9 Evacuate/dehy
And drate
High pressure side 1. Dirt in Block valve. 9 Change
pressure gauge high. 2. Moisture in the expansion valve
Pd>19.5 to 25 bar refrigerant circuit 9 Change
filter/drier.
Discharge air warm 9 Charge correct
amount of oil &
refrigerant.
9 Check
performance.
Low side –High Non condensable 9 Remove

High Side- High ( excessive air) refrigerant
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar 9 Evacuate/dehy
Pd> 19.5-25 bar 1. Large amount of air drate
Suction side piping is hot caused by 9 Change
to touch. insufficient filter/drier.
evacuation after 9 Charge correct
repair or servicing of amount of oil &
system refrigerant.
9 Check
2. Leak in system performance
allowing air and
moisture to enter.
Low side –High 1. Expansion valve stuck 9 Change the

High Side- High open. expansion valve.
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar
Pd> 19.5-25 bar
Frosting on suction side
piping
Low side –High 1. Excessive refrigerant 9 Check

High Side- High 2. Poor condenser refrigerant
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar cooling condition
Pd> 19.5-25 bar 3. Engine or dual 9 Check & repair
electric fan not fan.
Discharge air- Warm working
High side tubes-Very hot 4. Fan direction reverse. 9 Check

Compressor clutch- condenser.

Could continuously 9 Check pressure
cycle on the high cap, clearance
pressure switch between fan
and radiator.
Pressure does not come 5. Radiator 9 Check coolant
to normal when overheating. and any other
condenser cooled by radiator
water problem.
Low side- Low or 1. Expansion valve- 9 Remove
vacuum Stuck closed and or refrigerant
High side- High insufficient refrigerant 9 Evacuate/dehy
Ps> 1.5 bar to vacuum flow to suction side of drate
Pd> 19 to 22 bar the compressor. 9 Change
filter/drier.
Discharge air- slightly 2. Foreign material or 9 Charge correct
cool moisture entry amount of oil &
causing rust refrigerant.
formation. 9 Check
performance.
Low side _ low or Clogging on high side: 9 Remove

vacuum refrigerant.
High side- High 1. Clogging between 9 Clean & flush
Ps> 1.5 bar to vacuum compressor outlet system.
Pd> 5 to 7 bar and evaporator inlet 9 Change filter
(High side) drier.
Discharge air-slightly 9 Charge correct
cool 2. Very little or no amount of oil &
High side tubes- Cool refrigerant flow to refrigerant.
and showing signs of suction (low) side of 9 Check
sweating or moisture the compressor performance
build up at the position
after the point of
restriction.
Temperature difference
found on both the sides
of the clogged
component.
Low side Gauge- Normal 1. Excessive moisture in 9 Remove
to Vacuum ( Gradual system refrigerant
reduction) 9 Evacuate/dehydr
High side- Normal 2. Moisture can freeze ate
Ps> 1.5 to vacuum within the expansion 9 Change
Pd> 14 to 16 bar valve and cause expansion valve.
blockage through 9 Change
Discharge air becomes rust formation. filter/drier.

warmer as low side 9 Charge correct

cycles to vacuum. amount of oil and
refrigerant.
9 Check
performance.
Low side- High 1. Compressor 9 Replace

High side- Low malfunction. compressor.
Ps> 4 to 6 bar
Pd> 7 to 10 bar 2. Compressor faulty, 9 Remove
internal blockage in refrigerant
Compressor –Noisy. suction Hose after 9 Evacuate/Dehydr
Discharge air- Warm low side filing port. ate.
Discharge hose- Cool. 9 Change filter
drier.
9 Charge correct
amount of oil &
refrigerant
9 Check
performance.
Abnormal noise 1. Belt 9 Correct belt
slippage/damage. tension/ replace
2. Idler pulley belt.
misalignments 9 Replace bearing
3. Compressor clutch in the pulley.
pulley faulty. 9 Check the
4. Loose compressor compressor
mounting bolts mounting
5. Loose A/C plumbing 9 Check for loose
touching firewall/ parts and correct.
front panel/ fenders. Fit rubber
packing where
6. Compressor internal clearances low.
damage. 9 Replace
compressor.
High /Low pressure 1. Faulty compressor 9 Replace
equalize soon after discharge or inlet compressor.
compressor stops. valve.
Compressor is not hot to
touch. 2. Faulty compressor
seal.
Compressor pressure 1. Non condensable in 9 Recover

drops rapidly after system refrigerant/
switching off and does check for leaks
not stabilize to saturation and repair
pressure as per ambient

temperature.
Line to condenser is Restricted flow of 9 Remove
excessively hot. refrigerant in system restriction
Evacuate
9 Replace receiver
drier.
9 Charge through
the charging unit.
Insufficient/ no air flow 1. Blower rotation 9 Correct the
direction wrong. blower fitment.
2. Sealing 9 Renew sealing.
disconnected. Remove
Insulation piece blockage.
blocking air passage. 9 Adjust cable.
3. Mode cable not 9 Recharge
adjusted properly. battery. Check
4. Voltage insufficient < the charging
12 Volts system.
5. Improper earthing. 9 Correct
6. Open circuit, wiring earthing.
harness. 9 Correct wiring.
7. Fuse blown 9 Replace fuse.
8. Filter clogged
9 Clean filter
element by
tapping.
9 Replace filter
element if airflow
is still insufficient
after cleaning.
9 Replace filter
element after
15,000 km OR
one year.
Compressor clutch 1. Open circuit/ Fuse 9 Replace fuse.
engagement not blown. 9 Charge battery.
satisfactory 2. Weak battery. 9 Change relay.
3. Faulty clutch relay. 9 Check for leaks,
4. No refrigerant. charge
5. Shorted clutch coil. refrigerant & oil &
6. Oil/ dirt on clutch check.
plate. 9 Replace coil.
9 Change clutch
plates
Check / radiator Fan- 1. Dual Electric Fan If fan not operating:
direction of rotation puller type. • Loose
connection

• Loose wiring
harness.
Motor burnout.
Air circulation in the climate box –
Recirculated
Fresh Air
To Demister
To face middle RH
To face Middle LH
To Face RH
To center console
To foot

Knob Position
Flaps↓ Face Face- Foot Foot- Defrost
foot defrost
Face LH Open Open
Face RH Open Open
Face Open Open
Middle RH
Face Open Open
Middle LH
Center Open Open Open Open
Console
Foot LH Open Open Open
Foot RH Open Open Open
Defrost Open Open
The Airflow can be either fresh air or recirculation mode.

The air box with the electrically controlled flaps & recirculation mode is slightly
different. Sketch given below –

Care of the system -

The system should be flushed and charged every 50,000 or 1 year of operation.
The quantity of the gas which has to be filled is 750 ± 20 grams.
The refrigerant used is R134A.
Do not use / mix R12 & R134 A. the oils used for compressor is unique for R134. DO
NOT MIX. IT WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO ‘O’ RINGS as well as the R/D.
Though R134A is non-CFC, it is recommended that it should not be discharged to

atmosphere.
The particle filter should be cleaned at every 5000 KMs. Also it is recommended
that the vehicle should not be driven with AC or Blower on without the particle
filter as it will seriously damage the AC system components.

The procedure for cleaning the particle filter is as follows – (The fig is for RHD
Vehicle. For LHD vehicle it will be mirror image)
GLOW BOX REMOVAL
HVAC PARTICAL FILTER - CLEAN

Refer above illustrations -
1. Open and remove the Glove Box.

2. Remove the HVAC Filter Cover [1] by opening the snap clips on
both sides.
3. Take out HVAC Filter Element [2]
4. Clean the Filter Element with air blow (If compressed air is used,
ensure the pressure is low).
5. Fit the cleaned HVAC Filter & Cover; lock the snap clips on both
sides.
The procedure for the replacement of particle filter is as follows –
Remove the Glove Box.
1. Remove the HVAC Filter Cover by opening the snap clips on both sides.
2. Take out HVAC Filter Element.
3. Put the new Filter Element.
4. Fit the HVAC Filter Cover & lock the snap clips on both sides.
It is recommended that the evaporator fins be cleaned of dirt/ fungus every

40,000 Kilometre or once in 9 months for normal operation. If the vehicle is not
clocking long mileage then also it should be cleaned every 9 months (normal
areas) and 4 months in dusty conditions.
This will ensure that the heat transfer is effective hence better cooling and also
increase the airflow. The recommended cleaning agent is mentioned in the
recommended lubricant section.

In Car repairs -
9 Extreme care has to be taken to prevent any liquid refrigerant in coming in

contact with skin. Always wear safety goggles.
9 Do not allow liquid refrigerant to touch bright metal. Refrigerant will tarnish
bright metal and chrome surface. Refrigerant in combination with moisture is
very corrosive and can damage to all metal surfaces.
9 When charging, always keep the tank in upright position. If the tank is on its
side or upside down, liquid refrigerant will enter and affect the compressor.
9 Always double check that the gas being used is a R134A.The refrigerant
cylinder is color-coded to avoid confusion. R134A is Blue.
9 The compressor oil for R134A gas is different from R12A compressor oil. Do not
mix. If the R12A compatible compressor oil is used then it will damage the O
rings as well as the receiver Drier.
9 Never discharge a system or do brazing/welding operation when the engine

is ON.
9 PAG oil is highly hygroscope. Open containers only when ready to use. Cap
containers immediately after use.
9 Use only the specified oil for the AC system
9 Do not allow PAG oil to contact bare skin.
9 Do not allow PAG oil to contact paint work- wash immediately

The charging procedure comprises of the following distinct steps
Discharging the system
Evacuation of the system and checking for low vacuum leak
Purging – if required
Preliminary charging & High Pressure leak test.
Charging the system
Evaporator cleaning
Performance test

Discharging the system

The following procedure is recommended for evacuation.
1. Connect the hose of Recovery unit to the vehicle circuit

Red hose to the high pressure charging port
Blue hose the low pressure charging port
2. Open the quick coupler valves on the hose after they are connected to the
system
3. Check the manifold gauges the units control pane. They should register
above zero. If it is indicating zero then either the hose is not connected
properly/or/quick coupler valves are not opened or the system is empty.
4. Make sure that the drain valve at the bottom is closed.
5. Open both the manifold valves on the control panel
6. Open the Gas (vapor valve and liquid valve on the tank).
7. Switch on the power
8. Choose Recover option from the panel
9. To assure that the complete recovery of the refrigerant. Wait for 5 minutes
and watch the manifold gauges for a rise above zero.
10. If a rise occurs, press HOLD/CONT. repeat until the system pressure hold for at
least 2 minutes
11. The system displays the weight of the refrigerant recovered.
12. Confirm that the oil catch bottle is empty. Then slowly open the drain valve
and allow the oil to be drained into the bottle. When all the oil has been
recovered, close the valve immediately. New clean oil must be added to
system before recharging with the refrigerant
13. The automatic recovery unit will operate until the air conditioning system has
been emptied of refrigerant down to atmospheric pressure. The cylinder can
now be closed.

Evacuation of the system

The evacuation and leak test ensues that the system does not leak under low-
pressure conditions.
Ensure that the hoses are connected to the charging ports and valves on the
hoses. Tank & manifold are open.
Choose vacuuming program (Shift/Reset option) from the control panel.
Set up the vacuuming time in minutes. Approximately 15 minutes of vacuuming

time is recommended.
The unit displays the complete message after the vacuuming is over.
Check the moisture indicator. If it is green, it means that the system is ready for
recharging. If it is not green then manual recycling has to be done for one hour.
In case the moisture indicator still does not turn green, the reason could be
saturated receiver drier. It should be replaced.
The charging station is equipped with recycling facility. During evacuation the
refrigerant is automatically recycled to assure recharging with the cleanest
possible refrigerant. Recycling begins automatically after 5 second of the
vacuum pump starting. Non condensable gases (mostly air) are automatically
vented from the tank.
The system must hold the vacuum of –100 Kpa for a minimum of 15 minutes. If
vacuum is held then the system has no ands and should be evacuated for
further 15 minutes
This completes the evacuation process.
Purging – if required
Where the system has been ruptured, contaminated, or a compressor has to be
removed, reinstalled or replaced, the system should be checked for
contamination, and if so then the entire system must be flushed.
The system can be flushed with Nitrogen.

Preliminary charging & High Pressure leak test

This ensures that the system does not leak under high pressure conditions.
Confirm that the hoses are connected to the charging ports and valves on the
hose, Tank & manifold are open
Enter the refrigerant quantity by weight and press ENTER. (At least 200 grams of
charge are required to do the high-pressure leakage test)
Press CHG to start charging. The unit displays the completed message after the
charging is completed.
Use the electronic leak detector to probe the leakages. Leakage checking to be
done at the following points –
• Expansion valve joints

• All pipe joints.
• Suction & discharge ports.
• Both the charging ports
Note: Inspect for leaks by slowly moving the probe of the detector around all the
hose connections and points of possible leakage’s. The R134A is heavier than air;
hence, any leakage will be more apparent at the bottom of fitting.
Charging the system
If no leaks are found then do an additional charging of 570 ±20 grams. The total
system requirement is 750 ± 20 grams.
However in case of leakage, the system should be discharged.

After that repeat, the steps from evacuation onwards till the above steps. Then
proceed.
In case the system was checked for High pressure leaks by using Nitrogen,
Evacuation should done first and then system should be directly charge with
750±20 grams.
Close both the manifold valves and then start the vehicle.
Start the vehicle’s AC system and set it to maximum cooling. Check the pressure
gauges and temperatures in the vehicle.
Turn off the engine.

Disconnect the high side hose and start the vehicle. Open both the manifold
valves to pull the refrigerant from both the hoses into the system.
At the lowest operating pressure close the low side valve and switch off the
vehicle. Disconnect the low side hose and remove adapters if used.
Close the high side manifold valve. Both the valves should now be in closed
position.
9 Do not start the engine when the valve on the manifold and tank are open.
9 Ensure that the valves are closed before starting the engine.
9 Never run the compressor without the refrigerant in the system as the
lubricant relies on the refrigerant flow
Accurate system refrigerant charge can only be determined by charging the

correct amount of R134a.
If in doubt as to gas charge, e.g.

Suction pressure low
Or
Discharge pressure low
Or
Air outlet temperature at the face high.
Then: Evacuate the system and Charge with the 750±20 grams of R134 A
Carry out cooling system pressure test and suction (low side) pressure reading
comparison.

Evaporator Cleaning Procedure
Remove the Glove Box, remove Blower Connection & remove Blower Assembly.
1. Insert “Coil Rinse Nozzle” inside the Climate Box Assembly at the blower
neck.
• Spray “Coil Rinse” at least 2 times.
• After Spraying, the Liquid becomes Foam & enters in the Evaporator coil.
• Assemble the removed Blower Assembly again.
• Wait for 10 minutes.
2. Close all the Vents / louvers.
3. Start AC with Blower on 1st speed, Run the Engine at 1500 RPM for 5 minutes.
• Put AC Off & put Blower on 4th Speed for 5 minutes, Close all the Vents.
• All the Evaporator Containments & Water (Liquid) will drain out through
the Drain Hose & Evaporator becomes clean.
•

Special Instructions for Vehicle Users to avoid Wet Smell on the Evaporator
Put OFF the AC & put Blower on 4th speed 5 minutes before stopping the
Vehicle, this will keep Evaporator DRY & NO WET SMELL will come from
Evaporator.
Performance test
Pressure gauge readings together with the face air outlet temperatures are the
only method of checking and diagnosing the cooling system.
Checking system oil charge
The compressor is charged at the factory with 150 cc of FD46XG (PAG)

refrigerant oil, which circulates within the entire AC system. Only this type of oil,
which is pale yellow in color, must be used when adding or changing oil. This oil is
not compatible with any other PAG oil. It is not necessary to regularly check the
oil level in the system. It should be remembered that the oil gets circulated within
the whole system. Therefore, whenever an AC system component is replaced a
quantity of new refrigerant oil must be added to the system, where a major loss
of system oil has occurred. The loss normally takes place when:
Hose failure or leak is present.
Refrigerant system component is damaged due to collision.

If oil is suspected to be in the system
The procedure to be followed is –
Recover refrigerant from the system by evacuation.

Drain out the refrigerant oil.
Flush the remaining oil using R134a refrigerant.
Add 150 cc of new refrigerant oil to the compressor.
Install the compressor after replacing the Suction and discharge “O” rings.
Note: Ensure that the ‘O” rings are not twisted and that both the seals and ‘O’
rings are clean and then oil.
Follow the steps of charging procedure.

Compressor Replacement –
1. Discharge the refrigerant
2. Remove the suction and discharge pipes from the compressor, ensuring no
foreign items get clogged to the ports. (In order to have better accessibility it
is suggested that the following parts be removed first- right wheel, right
aprons; oil cooler)
3. Loosen the tensioner pulley.
4. Remove the fan belt
5. Loosen the compressor mounting bolts.
6. Remove the compressor.
7. Drain and measure the refrigerant oil from the original compressor by
removing the drain plug.
8. For example, the oil quantity drained from the original compressor is 80 cc.
The replacement compressor comes with 150 cc of compressor oil.
The implication is that out of the total 150 cc of the original compressor. 70 cc
of oil is in the system. Hence if the replacement compressor is fitted as it is, it
will cause this 70 cc extra to get into the whole system and affect the
performance.
9. Hence it should always be –

Oil to be drained from new compressor =Total oil capacity of compressor-
Drained oil
The refitting procedure is the reverse of assembly procedure.
10. Follow the steps of charging procedure.

Control Panel
The control panel has 3 knobs- the right knob is for degree of cooling to heating-
depending on the knob setting. For maximum cooling set the knob on blue color
dot and for maximum heating set the knob on red color dot.
The left knob sets the flap position to direct the airflow to face only or face & feet
or feet only or feet & defrosting or only defrosting.
The middle knob controls the blower speed. The bottom row indicates AC low,
AC high & fresh air / recirculation mode.
View of the Base plate assembly with actuators (Electrical Operation of Flaps &
circulation modes –

View of the electrical actuator base plate Assembly –

Lever
Base Plate
Actuator Motor
Cam
Gear
Setting of the Control Panel Cable --
The procedure, which is, outlined below are the setting procedure for assembly.
However, please note that the removal of the cables should also be done in the
same positions.
Caution: Failure to follow the procedure may cause breakages.
Note: The procedure for setting of the links with Electric actuation is given after
the manual control panels

Water valve setting Procedure –
Hold the control panel in front of the housing.
Keep the cooling & heating knob

at the highest cooling point
position.
Clamp the cable of the control

panel water valve to closed
position of water lever in the
housing side.
Water lever at closed position,

View of the Climate control box with Electric Actuation Showing the linkages for
different actuation –
Defrost Lever
Defrost Rod
Face Lever
Face Rod
Foot Rod

Fitting the rod by snapping it on the Hook –
Foot Rod

Photo showing the levers in the face mode –
Foot Rod

Fitting the Fresh /re circulating flap ( with the flap in the fresh air mode)
Lever for Fresh /

Re-circulating
mode
Connecting Rod
Motor for Fresh /

Re-circulating
mode

Replacing the Antifreeze switch
The function of the anti freeze switch is to protect the refrigerant system from
damage. It switches off the compressor when the condenser water dries ices up
on the evaporator fins. Otherwise, the evaporator becomes extra cool, resulting
in the air passage between the fins getting blocked. Suction pipe becomes extra
cool and sometimes iced up, the refrigerant remains liquid even after the
expansion valve due to insufficient heat transfer across the evaporator surface
and eventually the compressor will get damaged due to liquid refrigerant inflow.
Replacement procedure:
Remove the wiring harness from the connector.

Pull out the probe carefully.
While fitting back, ensure that the washer & the O ring is present.
Recommended Lubricants –
Refrigerant: R134A
Compressor oil: FD46XG. PAG stands for (Poly Alkaline Glycol oil)
Oil quantity to be filled while replacing components –
• Condenser/evaporator: In addition to the drained quantity- 20 cc

• Receiver Drier: Add 20 cc of new oil
• If any one pipe is replaced then 10cc. (If 2 pipes replaced then it should
be 20 cc.)
Specifications
Blower Motor: 3700±300; 12 V; 300 W
Condenser Motor: 2500± 200; 12V; 200 W
Expansion Valve- 2T

Chart showing the Effect of ambient temperature on Low Pressure side pressure
& High side pressure with R134 A








Pedal Pulsation



















Working principle, Assembly & dismantling of the Rear Brake –














1.0 Description
2.0 Function
3.0 Operation
4.0 Installation
9 I


























Steering
Contents
Description
Troubleshooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Dismantling & Assembly of the Steering Gear
Working principle of the Steering Pump
Specifications
Tightening Torques
List of the MSTs
Recommended Lubricants

Description
The power steering system is a rack and pinion type hydraulic system. The engine
driven hydraulic –pump supplies oil to a control valve situated in housing that supports
the pinion shaft. Movement, imparted to the control valve from the shaft in the
steering column is via a torsion bar. This sensing bar moves the control valve, which in
turn directs the oil to one side or the other side of the ram piston inside the steering
rack.
The control valve is a rotary type spool valve controlled by the torsion bar interposed
between the steering shaft and pinion of the steering box. The spool valve is a shaft
with six flutes and a sleeve, which has six internal axial grooves, encases this. Radial
ports in the sleeve and shaft pass the oil from the supply to the lines connected to the
ram chamber.
A series of the splines between the shaft and the sleeve limit the twist of the torsion
bar to about 7 degrees in each direction; below this angle the torque applied by the
driver to the steering box is transmitted by the torsion bar. This fail-safe feature
provides a mechanical drive from the steering shaft to the pinion in the event of any
power system failure.
The amount of the twist of the torsion bar and the movement of the spool valve is
proportional to the effort applied by the driver. Initial power steering assistance is
obtained at about 0.5 degrees deflection of the bar and this power rises progressively
as the bar moves to about 4 degrees; the point o maximum assistance.
When the wheel is in straight-ahead position, all the ports are open so oil is allowed to
flow through the valve and return to the reservoir.
As soon as the wheel is turned, the torsion bar is deflected; this allows the spool valve
to rotate relative to the sleeve, cutting off the oil flow both to the reservoir and one
side of the ram. At the same time the other side of the ram is subjected to oil
pressure, which builds up sufficiently to move the road wheel and return the torsion
bar to no – torque position. During this stage the oil displaced from the uncompressed
side of the ram is returned to the reservoir.
On occasion when the resistance to road wheel movement is excessive, the oil
pressures build up to its maximum. At this pressure a relief valve fitted inside the
pump opens and allows the oil to return to pump inlet.

The rack and pinion design is a simple design. However it is still susceptible to various
problems in particular to leaks. If the bellows are ripped or are unable to keep the
contaminant’s away then it can cause damage to oil seal and subsequent leaks.
One complaint, which can be present, is that the steering may be stiff and jerky when
the unit is cold and as the vehicle is driven/ warmed the power assist gradually comes
back. It normally indicates that grooves worn into the bore of the pinion aluminum
housing by hard control valve seals.
Wear in the centre housing causes the fluid to leak around the rack piston. Causing
either steering wander or lack of straight-ahead stability. Another cause of steering
wander and erratic control often accompanied by clumping, thunking noise is the
deterioration of rack mounting bushings.
Fluid levels can be hard to locate. Sometimes you will see a low level in the pump
reservoir but no evidence of escaping liquid. Squeeze the bellows and you will
probably find that they are full of liquid. To confirm if that side of the rack is the
culprit, then remove the both the bellows, clean the rack housing and then operate
the system to observe the seepage directly.
It should be mentioned that a rusty input shaft U joint or deteriorated flexible

textile/rubber coupling could imitate rack problems.
After attending to the repairs it critical that the system be completely flushed
completely. Disconnect the return line from the pump and put in a container, then
disable the injection (remove the wire from the shut off solenoid) and crank the
engine. Add fresh fluid until you get a clear flow from the line. Take care that the
reservoir does not run dry during the flushing. Failure to do so will result in
premature failure of the repaired unit.)

The possible causes for the power steering complaints are tabulated below:
Problem Possible Causes Corrections

Objectionable Noisy relief valve in There is some noise in all
Hiss hydraulic pump. Steering the power steering system.
gear noise valve noise is One of the most common is a
transmitted trough the hissing sound most evident
steering column or open-air at stand still parking. Hiss is
passages in the area where a high frequency noise that
the column or controls pass is present in every valve and
through the floor into the results from high velocity
engine compartment. fluid passing valve orifice
edges. There is no
relationship between this
noise and the steering gear
performance. DO not replace
the intermediate shaft or the
steering gear unless the
noise is too objectionable.
Check the dashboard seals
between the drivers area
and under hood to eliminate
open space/ gaps
Rattle or 1. Gear loose on frame. Check the gear mounting

chuckle noise in bolts. Torque the bolts to
Steering Gear specifications.
2. Steering linkage Check the IBJ and OBH

looseness. for wear.
3. Pressure hose touching Adjust the hose position.

other parts of the Do not bend the tubing
vehicle. by hand.
4. Loose IBJ or OBJ Replace.

5. Improper over centre- Adjust to specification
clearance. A slight rattle
may occur on turns
because of increased
clearance off the high
point. This is normal and
clearance must not be
reduced below specified
limits to eliminate this
slight rattle.
Excessive wheel 1. Air in the steering. Add oil to the pump
Kick Back or reservoir and bleed.
Loose Steering
2. Steering Gear Mounting Tighten attaching bolts
loose. to the specified torque.
Replace loose parts.

3. Front wheel Bearings Adjust the wheel
Incorrectly adjusted or bearings or replace as
worn. required.
Adjust to specifications
4. Steering Gear
improperly adjusted.
Dismantle and assemble

5. Damaged or worn the steering gear as
steering Gear. specified.
6. Worn or damaged rubber
bushing for mounting
steering gear Replace the rubber
bushings.
Vehicle leads to 1. Front end misaligned. Adjust to specifications.
one side or the
Other (keep in 2. Unbalanced steering Replace the gear Valve.
mind the road gear valve. If this is the
condition and cause steering effort will
wind vary light in direction of
conditions.) Test lead and heavy in
the vehicle , opposite direction.
Going in Both 3. Steering shaft rubbing Align the column.
directions , On a with the ID of the shaft
Flat road tube Adjust as required.
4. Steering linkage not
level.
Momentary 1. Low oil level in Add steering fluid as

Increase in Reservoir. required.
steering Effort Tighten or replace belt.
When Turning 2. Pump Belt slipping.
the Wheel
Quickly To the Refer to pump test.
Right or Left 3. High Internal leakage’s (
Steering Gear or Pump)
Poor return of 1. Tyres under inflated. Inflate to specified

Steering pressure.
2. Lower coupling flange
against the steering gear Loosen the pinch bolt
adjuster and assemble.
3. Steering wheel rubbing
against directional signal Adjust the steering
housing. column.
4. Tight or seized steering
shaft bushing/bearings.
5. Steering joint or linkage Replace the bearings.

binding.
6. Steering column Re-lubricate/ replace the
misaligned. joints.
Align the steering
7. Lack of lubrication in column.
the suspension ball.
8. Improper front end
alignment. Re-lubricate/ replace the
9. Steering gear adjusted ball joints.
too tight. Check & adjust to
10. Kink in return hose. specifications.
Adjust the preload.
Replace the hose.
Steering wheel 1. Low oil level in Pump. Add fluid as required.

Surges or Jerks
when Turning 2. Loose pump belt. Adjust tension as per
with engine specification.
running, 3. Sticky flow control Clean the control valve
especially during valve. or replace the pump.
Parking. Refer to the power
4. Insufficient pump steering System Test.
pressure
Hard steering 1. Low tyre pressures Adjust the tyre pressure.
effort in both
the directions 2. Lack of lubrication is Lubricate & re-lubricate
suspension or ball joint. at proper intervals.
3. Steering gear to column Align the steering

misalignment. column.
4. Pump belt slipping.
Tighten or replace belt.
5. High internal leakage.
Fill to proper level and
6. Sticky flow control inspect for leaks.
valve. Refer to pump Pressure
test.
7. Lower coupling flange Replace or clean the
rubbing against steering valve.
gear.
8. Steering gear preload Loosen the pinch bolt
high. and assemble correctly.
Adjust the preload in
9. Improper front end Straight-ahead position.
alignment Check & adjust to
specifications.
Foaming Milky Air in the fluid and loss of Check for leak & correct.
Looking Power fluid due to internal pump Bleed the system. Extremely
Steering Fluid. leakage causing overflow cold temperature will cause

Low Level and aeration problems if the oil
Possible low level is low. If oil level is
pressure correct and the pump still
foams then check for the air
leakage caused by loose
joint
Low oil Pressure 1. Check for kinks in the Remove the kinks or
due to hose. replace the hoses.
Restriction in Remove the foreign
the Hose 2. Foreign objects stuck in object or replace the
the hose. hose.
Chirp Noise in Pump belt slipping Tighten or replace Belt

Steering Gear
Belt squeal Pump belt slipping Tighten or replace Belt
( Particularly
noticeable at
Full wheel
Travel &
Standstill
Parking)
Growl noise in 1. Scored pressure plate, Replace Pump.
Steering Pump thrust plate or rotor
2. Extreme Wear of cam Replace Pump.
ring
Growl noise in 1. Low oil level Add the power steering
Steering Pump fluid.
2. Air in the oil. Poor
pressure hose Bleed the system.
connection.
Rattle or knock 1. Pump Vanes sticking in Replace pump, flush
noise in steering rotor slot system.
Pump 2. Pressure hose touching
other parts of the Adjust hose position.
Vehicle.
Swish Noise in Faulty flow control valve Replace pump.
steering Pump
Whine Noise In Pump shaft bearing scored Replace pump.
Steering Pump
Low oil Pressure 1. Flow control valve stuck Replace pump.
Due to Steering or inoperative
pump 2. Pressure plate not flat Replace pump.
against the cam ring.
3. Extreme wear of the Replace pump, flush
cam ring. system.
4. Air in oil. Locate source of leak &
5. Low oil level correct. Bleed the
system.
6. Pump belt slipping Add power steering fluid

as required.
7. Damaged hoses or Tighten or replace belt
steering gear as required
Replace as necessary.


The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs with the vehicle un-laden and
in a level ground. The lubricant level should be between the maximum and minimum
mark. The fluid level should be checked with the engine in off condition. If the oil
level is excess it will tend to come out from the filler cap in use lubricant meeting oils
specification of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid. The brand names have been
specified in the Operators Manual and also in the end of the Section.
In Car repairs –
The following repairs can be carried out without removing the assemblies.
a) Removal and refitment of out board Joints (OBJ)
b) Greasing of the OBJ (In case the rubber gaiter is torn.)
c) Removal & Refitment of the Steering Wheel.
d) Checking for Steering Play.
e) Steering Wheel - Centralize
f) Bleeding the system.
a) Removal and re-fitment of Track rod ends/ Outer Ball Joint
Loosen the wheel nuts. Lift up

the vehicle and remove the
front wheels.
Slacken the track rod end lock

nut.
Remove the castle nut split pin

and remove the castle nut.
Remove the track rod end using
the special tool.
Remove the track rod end.

While removing the track rod
end, make a note of the number
of turns required to remove the
end.
While fitting back the end or
fitting a new end turn it back
the same number of threads

b) Greasing of the track rod end/Outer Ball Joint (Only if the rubber gaiter is torn.)
After removal of the track rod

end
Remove the circlip
Fill the joint with about 10

grams of grease
Fit a new gaiter and put the lock
c) Removal & Refitment of the Steering Wheel
Remove the horn cover, using

the screw driver
Remove the lock nut, using the
22 mm socket
d) Checking and adjusting the Steering Play
After driving the vehicle in a straight

road, check the wheel spokes for
angular play.
25/30 If more than 25 to 30 degrees then

degrees check -Tie-rod end ball joint or steering
gear inner ball joint or
Lower arm ball joint or universal joint
Replace the defective part/parts
While checking ensure that the engine

is in off condition and wheels are in
Straight Ahead Position ( SAP position)

e) Steering Wheel – Centralization
This procedure for centralizing the Steering wheel is valid only if the misalignment
of the spokes is less than 30 degrees. In other words this procedure is only for fine-
tuning the steering wheel position not for gross error. If it is more 30 degrees then
remove the steering wheel and initially realign to less than 30 degrees.
To check for the centralization of the

steering wheel. Drive the vehicle on a
level road surface; note the angular
position (misalignment of the steering
wheel spokes.
Lift up the vehicle
Mark the position of the track rods and

the track rod ends
Slacken the track rod end lock nuts and

also remove the gaiter outer retaining
clips.

Clock
wise Anti
clock
Rotate both track rods in the same
error direction approximately 30 degrees for
wise
every 1-degree of steering
misalignment error.
If the steering wheel has an

anticlockwise angular error then both
track rods must be rotated clockwise-
when viewed from the left – hand side
of the vehicle
Clock If the steering wheel has an clockwise

wise angular error then both track rods must
Anti
error
clock be rotated anticlockwise- when viewed
wise from the left – hand side of the vehicle
Check the front wheel alignment (Toe

In) after the steering wheel has been
centralized
f) Bleeding the system
Before starting the Bleeding operation, ensure that the Vehicle is in level ground, and
the reservoir is filled to the maximum specified.
As with any hydraulic system ensure that the recommended fluids only are used.
Ensure that no dirt enters the system while topping up. Before opening the reservoir
cap, wipe the area with a cloth.
Ensure that the front wheels are

jacked up and wheels are lightly
touching the ground.
If this is not done then the

steering linkage and components
will be under undue stress.
Even with the wheels partly

jacked up, do not hold the
steering in fully locked position for
more than 10 second. Failure to
do so may damage the pump

beyond repairs.
Start the engine.
Rotate the steering wheel from lock
to lock 3 to 4 times.
Check if the oil in the reservoir has

dropped down drastically- if so
check for any leaks.
Check if any foaming/ frothing is

taking place.
Repeat the rotation from lock to
lock till the foaming subsides
If the foaming is not subsiding after
¾ of the above cycle, check for the
tightness of the hoses in particular
the reservoir to the steering pump
and later the steering gear to
reservoir. The loose connection in
these pipes will allow air to sucked
into the system.
After completing the bleeding
operation, ensure that with the
engine running the oil level is
between the maximum and
minimum mark
Close the cap
Dismantling & Assembly of the Steering Gear –

We do not suggest overhaul of the steering gear.

Working principle of the Steering Pump –

The steering pump is non-serviceable. Hence it cannot be repaired.
The pump is a constant flow, vane type incorporating a flow control valve (with an
integrated relief valve) and it is gear driven by engine. The power steering pump
consists of housing, drive shaft, cartridge assembly & bearing(s) apart from the valve.
As the pump rotates a vacuum is created at the inlet, which causes atmospheric
pressure to force the fluid in to pump from the reservoir. As the rotor rotates, the
inlet port closes and the fluid is trapped between the vans. Further movement forces
the fluid to be pressurized as the profile of the cam ring constantly reduces the
available volume. At the minimum point of the profile the chamber opens into the
outlet port.
The rotor is having 10 vanes, thus each rotation is equal to 5 pumping action. The
discharge rate of the power steering pump increases in proportion to the pump speed
increases.. The flow control valve is provided to maintain the optimum flow of the
supplied oil for power steering operation, at all engine speeds. The relief pressure will
open when the system pressure exceeds the set value. This normally happens when
the steering wheel is turned and held in the lock position.

Specifications –
Description Value
Rack & Pinion, End Take Off,
Steering Gear Type
Integral Power Assisted
Steering Gear Make Sona Koyo
LH – 75 mm & RH – 75 mm,
Rack Travel (Steering Gear)
maximum
Overall Steering Ratio 20 : 1
Total Turns Available on Input Shaft of
3.75
the Steering Gear
No. Of Steering Wheel Rotations (Lock
3.6
to Lock)
Torque required on input shaft to move
1.5 Nm
the Rack (preload)
Normal Operating Pressure 85 bar
Steering Wheel Diameter 395 mm / 365 mm

Sliding Vane Type – Positive
Power Steering Pump
displacement
Pump Make Koyo
Pump Make Delphi

Clockwise when viewed from shaft
Direction of pump rotation
end
Pump Flow 8.5 LPM @ 1000 rpm
Pump – Pressure Relief 75 kg/cm2 0r 75 bar
Pump – Drive Gear driven
Wide Operating Speed – Pump 600 rpm - 6500 rpm
Wide Operating Temp. Pump & Gear - 40 ° C to + 120 ° C
In-built System
Flow Control cum Pressure Relief Valve
7.5 +0.5 / - 0 M-pa.
in Pump
8.5 ± 0.7 lit / min @ 1500 RPM
Oil capacity – System 0.8 lts. Approx.

Description Torque Value Nm (lbf-ft)
Steering Gear Centre Bolt 120 ±10 Nm (88 ± 7 lb-ft)
Steering Gear Mounting Clamp Bolts 85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
List of the MSTs –

Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View
MST – 547
Steering wheel puller
MST – 548
Steering stand
MST – 549
Tie rod end remover
MST – 550
Socket steering pump Nut

MST – 551
Unit wrench –12 mm
Recommended Lubricants –
The recommended brand names are
DEXTRON TEXMATIC 1278 / 1888 from CALTEX ATF
Capacity is 0.8 lts.

Airbag
Content
* Airbag RHD
* Airbag LHD

Airbag RHD
Clock Spring Removal/Refitment



























Procedure for checking Clock spring Continuity and replacement
To remove the clock spring for continuity checking follow the below steps:
1.) Crank the engine for making the front wheel in straight direction.
2.) Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme left.
3.) From extreme left, Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme right. This total travel will
complete 3.5 rotations of steering wheel.
4.) From extreme right side, start rotating the steering wheel for 1.75 turns to left side.
5.) This 1.75 rotation ( which you have done in step 4 ) confirms that the steering wheel is in
center of the vehicle.
6.) Stop the engine.
7.) Disconnect the Battery negative terminal.
Battery –ve
terminal

8.) Remove the Horn Pad by removing the screws on either side as shown in photo.
9.) Remove the Squib connector of DAB as shown.

10.) Unplug the 8 Pole connector ( Clock spring Vs steering wheel switches) & Horn terminal.
8 Pole connector
Horn pin
11.) Loose the steering wheel nut and remove the same from steering rod.

12.) Remove the steering wheel from steering rod. At most care to be taken while removing
the steering wheel that the connector of clock spring should not get entangled in
Steering wheel cutout.( Please ref. the attachment )
13.) Remove the connector from steering wheel slot carefully.
13.) Remove the 5 screws that fasten the shroud.

14.) Remove 4 screws of Clock spring which holes the clock spring on combination switch.
15.) Unplug the wiring harness connectors which goes to Clock spring at bottom side of
Clock spring.
8 & 4 pole connector
16.) Check the continuity of clock spring as per below mentioned.

17.)If found any discontinuity in any circuit like Cruise, Audio ctrl, Horn & airbag.
Replace new clock spring.

18.) Connect 8 Pole & 4 pole connector of wiring harness to clock spring
19.) Tighten the clock spring with four screws with 4 Nm torque.
20.) Remove the yellow colour lock. Clock spring has total 5.7 rotations. This
Yellow lock defines the center position of Clock spring. I.e. after removing the
Lock, clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side& 3.2 rotations on left side.
Yellow colour lock
Note: If this lock is already found broken / missing. Then to define center position
Of clock spring follow the steps from 21 to 24.

21.) Hold the clock spring rotor wire in hand as shown below & Start rotating to extreme
Left in anticlockwise direction.
22.)From extreme left point start rotating the rotor to extreme right in clockwise direction.
Clock spring will complete 5 rotations from extreme left to extreme right.
23.) From extreme right start rotating the rotor for 2.5 rotations in anticlockwise direction.
24.) This point defines the middle position of the clock spring. With this we can ensure that
clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side & 3.2 rotations on left side.
25.)Fix & press the shroud and fix with the help of 5 screws.

26.) Place the steering wheel on the steering rod. While placing this steering wheel ensure
8 & 4 pole connector of clock spring to taken out from slot provided on steering wheel
along with complete wiring harness.
27.) Locate the steering wheel slot in clock spring grommet.
28.) Tighten the steering wheel nut. Make sure that the steering wheel is in straight ahead
Position with front wheels.

29.) After tighten the nut, route the wire through guidelines as shown.
30.) Make the connection of 8 pole connector & horn pin.

31.) After connection route the connector as shown.
Position of connector
32.) Connect the DAB squib connector to the DAB.
33.) Place the horn pad.

34.) Tight the DAB screws with LN key.
35.) Re-connect the battery negative terminal to Battery.
36.) Verify that the horn works.
37.) Turn ON the Ignition and check the Audio Control through steering wheel switches
Functions.
Note: Whenever the Battery is disconnected driver door power window auto function is
Disabled.
35.) Start the engine.
36.) Learn the power window regulator as per procedure mentioned in Smart power window.

Airbag - LHD
Contents
• Necessity
• Function & Effect
• Supplementary Restraint System(SRS) Components
• Operation
• How Air bag inflators work
• Definition
• General Precautions
• Driver Air Bag (DAB)
• Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
• Shipping
• Storage
• Handling of the Pyrotechnic Assemblies
• Dos & Don’ts
• Important Safety Warnings
• FAQ
• Clock Spring Removal/Refitment

Necessity
The seat belt is a concrete device for protecting the body of a passenger in a
collision. But when the body is subjected to a large impact in the case of a
high-speed collision, the seat belt alone cannot protect the body. And
especially in the case of a serious front-end collision, the upper body tilts
forward even when it is secured with the seat belt, and the head or chest may
collide with the steering wheel or the windshield, resulting in injuries.
The SRS Air bag system is a device that reduces head and chest injuries to the
driver and passengers by inflating an airbag installed in the steering wheel or
the instrument panel when such a collision occurs, supplementing the function
of the seat belt.
Thus, the SRS Air bag system supplements the restraining and protective
functions of the seat belt. For that reason the name of the system is
Supplementary Restraint System (SRS)

FUNCTION & EFFECT
Function of Air Bag
• Absorbs Kinematics energy of occupants

• Protects occupants from injuries in case of accident
• Protects occupants from interior trims
• Protects occupants from broken glass
• Reduces occupants neck load by kinematically restraining spin of neck.
Effect
Decrease in fatality when safety system is used

(Data published by NHTSA, 1999)
When only using Seat Belt: - 45% Decrease

When only using Frontal Air Bag: - 14% Decrease
When using Seat Belt + Frontal Air Bag: - 50% Decrease

SRS Components
The SRS system consists of the following components:
• Driver side Air Bag Module

• Passenger side Air Bag Module
• Air Bag ECU
• Air Bag Warning indicator (On Instrument Cluster)
• Wiring Harness
• Driver Seat belt Pre tensioner
• Passenger Seat belt Pre tensioner
Operation
The crash sensors in the air bag ECU continuously monitor to determine if the
frontal impact is severe enough to deploy the air bags. When an impact of
sufficient force occurs, the air bag ECU sends an electrical signal to the air bag
modules which in turn rapidly ignites the energetic material and inflates the air
bag. The inflated airbag deploys out of steering wheel and glove box cover. As
the entire deployment of air bag happens in less than a second, in combination
with seat belts, it slows down the driver’s or passengers forward motion, thus
reducing the risk of head or chest injury. The air bags deflate quickly thru the
pores in the air bag cushion. Therefore air bag is not a substitute of seat belts.
To maximize your protection always wear seat belts. The SRS can function only
when the ignition key is ‘ON’.
Note: The SRS front air bags are not designed to inflate for side or rear
collisions, roll over or if it is involved in low speed frontal collision.
How Airbag Inflators Work
The intended function of an airbag is to provide supplemental restraint to

automobile occupants in the event of a collision. This is done by the rapid
inflation of a cushion by non-toxic gas that is generated and/or released by an
inflator in response to an electrical signal from a collision detecting sensor(s).
The inflated cushion helps to absorb the energy of a driver or passenger and
prevent body contact with the vehicle structure.


Definitions:
SRS- Supplementary Restraint System
DAB- Driver Airbag assembly
SW- Steering Wheel assembly
PAB- Passenger Airbag Assembly
Lower Cover PAB: Part of the Instrument Panel directly below PAB
RP-Rotary Pretensioner used in the retractor of Scorpio Front Seat Belt

Assembly
SB-Seat Belt assembly
Pyrotechnics – any of the above described devices (DAB, PAB or RP)

General Precautions:
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag
system service. Observe the instructions described in this manual, or the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
• Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition

switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait
at least three minutes before beginning work.
• Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same

standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts
from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
• Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any
part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as
dents, cracks or deformation.
• Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the
connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector.

Driver Air Bag (DAB)
Exploded view of Driver Air Bag
Description
The Driver Air Bag Module sits centrally as a complete unit in the steering
wheel. At high speeds, the danger arises of being thrown against the steering
wheel in the event of a crash, even if the driver’s seat belt is fastened. The air
bag protects the driver against collision with the steering wheel & thus
alleviates the consequences of the accident. The deployment of DAB depends
upon the severity and direction of the frontal collisions.

Removing a fired DAB from vehicle
Most of the times, a fired airbag has to be removed from the vehicle after
accident or inadvertent deployment - before installation of the new DAB.
Fig shows a fired DAB. Now before installing a new DAB the fired DAB has to be
removed from the vehicle.
The following steps are to be followed when removing a fired

DAB from vehicle
• Rotate SW until one of the holes on the side of SW is accessible.
• Using the appropriate Allen key tool, unscrew and remove the M6 socked
head bolt from the SW.
• Turn the SW by 180 degrees to access the second bolt fixing DAB to the
SW.
• Undo and remove the second bolt the same way as described above.
Note: Two bolts once removed should not be reused as they are
precoated with dry adhesive.
• Pull out and remove the DAB from SW.
• Lift up the black tab in DAB connector with a screwdriver. Pull off the
connector and remove it from DAB.
• Discard the DAB; recycle metal and plastic components as appropriate.
• Wash hands with soap after completing the disassembly.

Removing live (non-fired) DAB from vehicle
Note: - It is recommended that the person doing the task wears an antistatic
wrist or ankle strap when handling a new airbag.
If the DAB in vehicle has not been fired, it has to be ensured that the vehicle
ignition key is in “OFF” position before and during removing DAB from the
vehicle. This is necessary in order to avoid resetting the “Airbag Fault” alarm.
Apart from the above, please follow the same procedure of “Removing a fired
DAB from vehicle”.
Assembly Procedure of Driver Air Bag (DAB)
Note: It is recommended that the person doing the task wears an antistatic
The following steps are to be followed while assembling DAB in vehicle.
• Insert the DAB connector to the airbag. Assure the correct connector
orientation is maintained, as per the below pictures. After inserting the
connector, secure it by pressing the black tab.
Note: In case the DAB connector had been melted during previous
airbag deployment, the DAB loom has to be replaced prior to airbag
installation.
• Fit the DAB into the SW cavity, and align the 3 rectangular housings in
DAB with horn switches in the SW.

• Press the DAB to fit in the SW. Assure the 3 horn switches had engaged in
the respective DAB housings.
• Rotate the SW until there would be access to one of the holes in the side
of SW. Assure that holes in DAB and SW align correctly, or otherwise use
the screwdriver to align them.
• Locate and insert M6 x 16mm long socket head screw into the hole on
the side of SW. Torque to 10 +/- 1.0 Nm.
• Rotate the SW by 180 deg and assemble the second M6 x 16mm socket
head screw the same way as described above.
• Switch the ignition “on” and assure the airbag warning lamp in the
instrument cluster is off.
• Assure the vehicle horn works correctly.

Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
Exploded View of Passenger Air Bag
Description
The Passenger Air Bag (PAB) is located above the glove box compartment.
The PAB prevents the Co-driver from serious injuries in case of accident.
The deployment of PAB depends upon the severity and direction of the frontal
collisions.

Removing a Fired PAB from vehicle
Usually the PAB has to be removed from the vehicle after it has been fired
upon accident or inadvertent deployment.
The following steps are to be followed when removing a fired

PAB from the Vehicle:
• Lift the corners of Lower Cover PAB to undo the attaching clips. Use
plastic or wooden tool for this task to avoid part damage. Remove the
Lower Cover PAB from the Instrument Panel.
• Using the appropriate spanner, undo and remove the 2 x M8 hexagonal

bolts fixing the PAB bracket to the vehicle Cross Car Beam

• Lift the PAB Cover from the Instrument Panel and pull the PAB upwards
to remove it from the Instrument Panel.
• Lift the tab from airbag connector and putt connector up to disconnect
airbag loom
• Discard the PAB; recycle metal and plastic components, as appropriate.
• Wash hands with soap after completing the disassembly.

Removing live (non-fired) PAB from vehicle
If the PAB in vehicle has not been fired, ensure the vehicle ignition is OFF
before removing airbag loom connector from the airbag. Ignition has to be also
kept OFF all the time during assembly and re-assembly – to avoid resetting the
“Airbag Fault” alarm. Apart from the above, please follow the same procedure
of “Removing a fired PAB from vehicle”.
Assembly Procedure of Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
The following steps are to be followed when installing PAB in the

vehicle:
• Insert the PAB connector to the airbag. Assure the correct connector
orientation is maintained, as per the below picture. Lock the connector
by pressing black tab.
Note: In case the PAB connector had been melted during previous
airbag deployment, replace the whole airbag loom affected.
• Place the PAB into the cavity in Instrument Panel. Align 3 location studs
in the PAB cover with relevant holes in Instrument Panel. Push the PAB
Cover down to fit into Instrument Panel.

• Locate and insert two M8 socket head screw into the holes in PAB
bracket.
Torque Specification: 18 +/- 2.0 Nm.
• Align and press to assemble the Lower Cover PAB to the Instrument
Panel.

Shipping
Shipping of the Pyrotechnic assemblies
Pyrotechnic assemblies are considered Hazardous Materials. Persons shipping

Hazardous Materials must be properly trained and must consult current
published regulations to ensure conformance to all applicable regulations.
Packaging containing Pyrotechnics must be marked appropriately, displaying

the “class” of the Hazardous Materials inside. The following picture is showing
branding of the Hazardous Materials Class 9. Scorpio
Airbags and RP SB classify to this class.

Storage
• General storage must meet state and local regulations.
• Store the SRS unit, the front impact sensor and the side impact sensors
in a cool (less than 40 C/104 F) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity,
no moisture) area.
• Keep inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies away from flame,
water, and any chemicals that may degrade the assembly material.
• Inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies should be stored in the

upright position in their original shipping container, if possible, until
installation.
• Store damaged inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies in a dry place
in limited quantities.
• It is important to store the discharged pyrotechnic inflator units in

containers, which prevent precipitation (rain, snow, etc.), from coming
in contact with the gas generant residue.
• Store the removed airbag on secure, flat surface away from any high
heat source (exceeding 85 C/185 F).
• Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring

resistance.
• Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal,

inspection, or replacement.

Handling of the Pyrotechnic assemblies
1. Undeployed Pyrotechnics
a. Do not place any objects on top of Airbag Covers. These objects
may become projectiles in case of inadvertent Airbag
deployment.
b. Wear anti static straps (foot or hand) when handling Pyrotechnics.
c. Do not attempt to dismantle Pyrotechnics or their components.
d. Do not apply electrical voltage to the Pyrotechnics terminals,
especially if external loom is connected to the connector.
2. Deployed Pyrotechnics
a. Wash hands after handling the deployed pyrotechnics.
Proper Handling
Below are examples of the safest methods of holding Air bag modules
Driver Module—Hold driver module in a vertical position with right hand on cover.

Knee Bolster—Hold knee bolster module in vertical position with right hand on
cover.
Passenger Module—Hold passenger module in vertical position with lead wires at

top and left hand on cover.

Seat Belt Pretensioner—Hold seat belt pretensioner by the round tube with
the round tube end pointed away from the body and the buckle pointing
down.
Seat Belt Retractor—Hold seat belt retractor by gripping the end caps or
sides of the retractor.

Dos & Don’ts for Air Bag System
Do’s
• Do store modules in an upright position.

• Do keep modules dry.
• Do carry modules with the cover side pointing away from the body.
• Do place modules with their cover side upwards.
• Do carefully inspect modules for damage.
• Do stand to one side when connecting modules.
• Do make sure all test equipment is properly calibrated and maintained.
• Do wash hands after handling deployed air bags.
Don’ts
• Do not store highly flammable material together with modules or gas

generators.
• Do not store gas generators at temperatures exceeding 80°C.
• Do not store modules upside down.
• Do not attempt to open gas generator housing.
• Do not expose gas generators to open flame or sources of heat.
• Do not place anything on top of a module cover.
• Do not use damaged modules.
• Do not touch a fired module or gas generator for at least 10 minutes.
• Do not use any electrical probes on the wiring circuit.

IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNINGS
• As the solid propellant burns, the airbag module may heat up and vent
hot gas.
• Always wear gloves and safety glasses during handling of pyrotechnic

devices.
• Because of peak noise levels during deployment of pyrotechnics, there is

a potential risk to hearing. Always wear ear protection during
deployment.

• Always wash hands after handling deployed pyrotechnic devices.
• Deployment and associated activities shall only be performed by trained

personnel.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What are the concerns that need to be reviewed if handling

inflators/modules in a processing facility?
Ans: Safe work practices should be reviewed to eliminate the potential
hazards that may result in an unplanned deployment. Examples of potential
hazards to review are:
• Electrical equipment and wiring that could come into contact with the
connector lead wire or initiator pins.
• Possible pinch points that could damage or tear the lead wire
• Materials that buildup large amounts of energy (e.g. plastics) that could
be discharged in the form of electrostatic energy
• High heat sources that exceed 1500 C
Q: What would cause an airbag to accidentally discharge?

Ans: The probable causes are as mentioned below:
• Introduction of an electrical energy source
• Heating the metal airbag inflator canister to a temperature greater than
150° C
• Drilling, sawing, puncturing, and shearing in the igniter/squib area.
Q: How much force does it take to puncture an inflator wall?

Ans: The airbag inflator vessel wall thickness and pressure containment
specifications are such that the force required to puncture the inflator wall is
likely greater than would be experienced under reasonable handling conditions
on a production line. Power equipment (e.g., robotics, drills, pisses, metal
shears, etc.) may be able to puncture the inflator wall. Care should be taken to
prevent unplanned or unsafe acts by power equipment or external penetration
of the inflator wall.
Q: What is the cooling time of the inflator if one deploys?

Ans: The airbag module attachment components can be handled within
minutes following deployment. When handling inflators, you should allow up to
45 minutes cooling time in order to handle it without the hazard of burning the
skin (<40° C).

Procedure for checking Clock spring Continuity and replacement
To remove the clock spring for continuity checking follow the below steps:
1.) Crank the engine for making the front wheel in straight direction.
2.) Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme left.
3.) From extreme left, Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme right. This total travel will
complete 3.5 rotations of steering wheel.
4.) From extreme right side, start rotating the steering wheel for 1.75 turns to left side.
5.) This 1.75 rotation ( which you have done in step 4 ) confirms that the steering wheel is in
center of the vehicle.
6.) Stop the engine.
7.) Disconnect the Battery negative terminal.
Battery –ve
terminal

8.) Remove the Horn Pad by removing the screws on either side as shown in photo.
9.) Remove the Squib connector of DAB as shown.

10.) Unplug the 8 Pole connector ( Clock spring Vs steering wheel switches) & Horn terminal.
8 Pole connector
Horn pin
11.) Loose the steering wheel nut and remove the same from steering rod.

12.) Remove the steering wheel from steering rod. At most care to be taken while removing
the steering wheel that the connector of clock spring should not get entangled in
Steering wheel cutout.( Please ref. the attachment )
13.) Remove the connector from steering wheel slot carefully.
13.) Remove the 5 screws that fasten the shroud.

14.) Remove 4 screws of Clock spring which holes the clock spring on combination switch.
15.) Unplug the wiring harness connectors which goes to Clock spring at bottom side of
Clock spring.
8 & 4 pole connector
16.) Check the continuity of clock spring as per below mentioned.

17.)If found any discontinuity in any circuit like Cruise, Audio ctrl, Horn & airbag.
Replace new clock spring.

18.) Connect 8 Pole & 4 pole connector of wiring harness to clock spring
19.) Tighten the clock spring with four screws with 4 Nm torque.
20.) Remove the yellow colour lock. Clock spring has total 5.7 rotations. This
Yellow lock defines the center position of Clock spring. I.e. after removing the
Lock, clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side& 3.2 rotations on left side.
Yellow colour lock
Note: If this lock is already found broken / missing. Then to define center position
Of clock spring follow the steps from 21 to 24.
21.) Hold the clock spring rotor wire in hand as shown below & Start rotating to extreme
Left in anticlockwise direction.
22.)From extreme left point start rotating the rotor to extreme right in clockwise direction.
Clock spring will complete 5 rotations from extreme left to extreme right.
23.) From extreme right start rotating the rotor for 2.5 rotations in anticlockwise direction.
24.) This point defines the middle position of the clock spring. With this we can ensure that
clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side & 3.2 rotations on left side.
25.)Fix & press the shroud and fix with the help of 5 screws.

26.) Place the steering wheel on the steering rod. While placing this steering wheel ensure
8 & 4 pole connector of clock spring to taken out from slot provided on steering wheel
along with complete wiring harness.
27.) Locate the steering wheel slot in clock spring grommet.
28.) Tighten the steering wheel nut. Make sure that the steering wheel is in straight ahead
Position with front wheels.

29.) After tighten the nut, route the wire through guidelines as shown.
30.) Make the connection of 8 pole connector & horn pin.

31.) After connection route the connector as shown.
Position of connector
32.) Connect the DAB squib connector to the DAB.
33.) Place the horn pad.

34.) Tight the DAB screws with LN key.
35.) Re-connect the battery negative terminal to Battery.
36.) Verify that the horn works.
37.) Turn ON the Ignition and check the Audio Control through steering wheel switches
Functions.
Note: Whenever the Battery is disconnected driver door power window auto function is
Disabled.
35.) Start the engine.
36.) Learn the power window regulator as per procedure mentioned in Smart power window.

Immobilizer
Contents
Definition
System components involved
Immobilizer System Work Flow.
Learning.
DTC – explanation.

Description –
Immobilizer is Vehicle safety system against Vehicle Theft. Vehicle should not run of
its own power incase of un-authorized usage. Safety against the vehicle theft even if
the access into the vehicle is gained. Immobilizer is a major security device to prevent
the vehicle being operated by an un authorized person. An electronic immobilizer is
part of
the engine control unit (ECU), and prevents the vehicle from being started unless it
recognizes signals from a right remote key.
Advantages –
• Enhanced security
• Immobilization through Engine Management system.
Integrated Key with transponder chip
Immobilizer ECU (ICU)
Engine
Management
ECU (EMS ECU)

Transponder consists of –
• Chip without battery.

• Glued into the key fob.
• Communicates with ICU through RF.
• Each Transponder is configured with Mahindra specific codes
during the manufacturing.
• Only the Mahindra Specific Transponder can be used with Immobilizer.
• Identified by unique 32 bit Identifier.
Immobilizer ECU (ICU) is –
• Fitted in the IGN lockset.

• Securely Communicates with the Transponder and identifies the validity
of the transponder through RF.
• ICU will communicate only to the Mahindra specific transponders.
• Securely communicates to the EMS and conveys the key status
information over CAN.
• Securely communicates with the ICU and identifies the valid
Immobilizer ECU.
• Based on the key status it starts/ immobilizes the engine.

Immobilizer System Work Flow


DTC-
Code Label
90A0 Key is rejected by the Immobilizer ECU
90A1 Invalid Transponder password is found
90A2 No response from EMS ECU

90A3 No EMS ACK after signature mismatch
90A4 Mismatch in checksum 1
Serviceable Elements-
Replacements Learning to be repeated
Services ICU Keys with EMS Transponder ICU – EMS

lockset learning learning
Key YES YES

change
ICU YES YES YES

Change
EMS YES YES

Change
Refer to the Diagnostic Manual on Immobilser for further details on the Structure,
Learning & Error codes.

Audio System
Contents
Description
Layout and Location of controls

Description –
Audio control on steering wheel allows the driver to operate the audio system without
any disturbance and movement, while driving the vehicle. The system has four
switches which are mounted on Steering wheel.
1. SEEK (Scanning the different radio frequency, changing the track in case of CD)
Press the SEEK switch once to go up by 0.05MHz on the radio station frequencies.
Press the seek switch continuously for more than 3 Sec for AUTO Scan of radio Station.
In CD/SD CARD/ USB modes, next track can be played by pressing the switch once.
2. VOLUME + (Volume control)

To increase the volume by one point presses the VOL+ switch.
3. VOLUME - (Volume control)

To reduce the volume by one point press the VOL- switch
4. MODE: To switch between different modes in Audio system. There are five modes
available in Audio. When MODE switch is pulled once, next mode is selected in the
following sequence provided the required media are connected
- Tuner
- CD/MP3
- SD Card
- USB
- Auxiliary

General Features-
1. FM/AM/SD/USB /MP3/CD PLAYER/RECEIVER WITH AUX IN

2. 2DIN FIXED PANEL
- Avoids Audio easy theft
- Avoids Panel lost or broken problem
3. ROTATAORY VOLUME ENCODER (Endless Type)
- Contemporary design
- Easy to operate
- Rubber Grip which surrounds the Knob provides good feeling
4. Illuminated Ring around Power/Volume knob
- Better aesthetics
- Convenience in Night for driver
5. FRONT ILLUMINATED AUX IN
6. 1 REAR PRE-OUT
7. LONG STROKE ILLUMINATED PANEL SWITCH/KNOBS
- Contemporary design
- Easy to operate
8. COVERED SD/USB PORT
- Provides protection from dust & external abuse etc.
9. IN-BUILT steering switch function
10. CD IN SLOT- ILLUMINATED INDICATOR
Audio Section Features-
1. Maximum Output Power: 40WX4

2. BASS, TREBLE, BALANCE, FADER adjustment function
3. Preset DSP/TONE curves
4. Loudness ON/OFF function
5. Audio Mute
Tuner Section Features-
1. 2 FM(FM1 & FM2), 2AM(MW1 & MW2) Band, 1AUT band

2. 24 preset memories & 6 AUT memories
3. Manual & Auto Seek
4. Radio Preset Scan
5. Local/Distant Selection

SD/USB/MP3/ CD Player Section-
1. Track/file UP/Down & Forward/Reverse Function

2. Track One Reset (Top Function)
3. Track/File Scan (Intro Function)
4. Track/File Repeat Function
5. Random track/file Play Function
6. Folder Up/Down Function
7. Fast Select for MP3 files
8. Information Function for Track/MP3 file Play back
9. Mute/Pause Function
• Do not place the removed faceplate or the faceplate case in areas

exposed to direct sunlight, excessive heat or humidity. Also avoid places
with too much dust or the possibility of water splashing.
• To prevent deterioration, do not touch the terminals of the unit or
faceplate with your fingers.
• To prevent a short circuit when replacing a fuse, first disconnect the wiring
harness.
• Do not place any object between the faceplate and the unit.
• Applying spray cleaner directly to the unit or wiping the faceplate with a
hard cloth or using a volatile liquid such as thinner may scratch the surface or
erase characters.
Note –
1) Press the Power ON/OFF button available on face plate to TURN ON/OFF the Audio
system. Turning ON /OFF of Audio system is not available on Steering wheel switches.
2) In case of non functioning of Audio Control through steering wheel switches, Audio
can still be operated either through Face plate or Remote.

Cruise Control
Contents
Introduction
Description
Care of the system
Electrical Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Introduction
Cruise control known as speed control or Auto cruise is a system to automatically
control the speed of the vehicle. It enables the driver to maintain a constant road
speed without using the accelerator pedal. To activate cruise, the vehicle speed must
be greater than 40 km/h and engine speed should be greater than 1200 rpm.
Need for the feature -
• Its usefulness for long drives across sparsely populated roads results in better
fuel efficiency.
• To maintain the lane speed limit.
Operating Principle -
Cruise Control system works on the closed loop system principal. System controls the
fuel injection of Engine depending on the feedback signal of speed of the vehicle, to
maintain the SET speed of vehicle.
Cruise
switches
Engine Clutch
ECU Brake
Acc. Pedal
Vehicle
speed
sensor
Engine

System Description -
1. Switches on steering wheel.
2. Clock spring (Communication link)
3. Electronic Control unit (ECU)
8 Pole Ground
Connector Terminal
12 Pole
Connector
Clock spring

The system has four switches –
Press SET+ to go into cruise mode.
1. SET (+) To increase the set cruising speed -
• Press and hold the SET (+) switch.

• It will increase the speed of the vehicle by 1.5Km/hr, while vehicle is in
Cruise mode.
• While in Cruise mode, if pressed continuously, vehicle speed increases by
1.5Km/hr. e.g. if vehicle is running at the speed of 70 Km/hr in cruise
mode ,on pressing set (+) once ,speed will increase by 1.5 km/hr, if press
continuously the speed will also increase continuously in steps of 1.5
km/hr.
• Release the SET (+) switch as soon as the desired cruise speed has been
reached.
2. SET (-)To reduce the set cruising speed –
• Press and hold the SET (-) switch.

• It will decrease the speed of vehicle by 1.5Km/hr, while vehicle is in Cruise
mode.
• While in Cruise mode, if pressed continuously, vehicle speed decreases
continuously by 1.5Km/hr. e.g. if speed is 70 km/hr on pressing cruise (-)
once, speed will decrease by 1.5 km/hr, if press continuously the speed will
also decrease continuously in steps of 1.5 km/hr.
• Release the SET (-) switch as soon as the desired cruise speed has been
reached.
• Do remember that cruise control system will not operate at vehicle speed
below 40 km/hr.
3. RESUME/COAST (resume to the last preset speed) -
By pressing the RESUME/COAST switch, the last set cruise speed can be resumed,
provided the ignition switch is ON and the vehicle speed is above 40km/hr. e.g. If the
user activates the cruise at 90 Km/hr & runs the vehicle. After some time, user
deactivates or comes out from Cruise mode. Here if user wishes to have the same
cruise speed (i.e.90km/hr), user may press RES/COAST button, which will re-activate
the cruise mode and vehicle cruise speed will be maintained at 90km/hr
4. CRUISE (Press “cruise” button to Disengage the cruise control)
The purpose of this switch is to deactivate the cruise application by pressing the
clutch or brake pedal, or when the cruise switch is pulled up.
The preset cruise speed in system memory will automatically get cancelled when the
ignition switch is turned off.

Clock spring (Communication Link ) & Engine ECU
• All the Steering Switches are connected to Engine ECU through Clock spring.
• Clock spring is part of Steering & it acts as a communication link between
switches and engine ECU
• Clock spring takes all electrical inputs signals from steering switches & feed
to Engine ECU.
• Depending on various electrical signals from Switches, Engine ECU takes the
respective action related to the cruise application
Overtaking the vehicle in cruise mode -
Cruise Control will not work in 1st Gear & reverse gear.
2nd Gear or 3rd gear - ~30 km/hr

4th Gear or 5th gear - ~ 45 km/hr are the preferable speeds in each gear above
which the Cruise Control can be comfortably operated.
If the foot is kept on Accelerator Pedal, then the Cruise Control function is overridden
& the input is taken from the Accelerator.
If the Accelerator Pedal is released before 20 seconds, then the Cruise Control
function will still be active & the system will return to Cruise Control mode. If the
Accelerator Pedal is released after 20 seconds, then the system will not return to
Cruise Control mode & the driver has to reactivate the Cruise Control if owner wants
to return to the Cruise Control mode.
While driving with cruise control, never shift the gear to neutral [or] to other
gears, without pressing the clutch pedal. Otherwise engine will over run.
• DO NOT use cruise control on slippery road surfaces (rainy/icy/snow-covered),

up-hill / down-hill driving.
• DO NOT use in heavy traffic where a constant speed can not easily be
maintained.
• If the SET PLUS button is pressed, the acceleration is felt to be too fast &
vehicle goes beyond control , then press brake or clutch immediately for safety
and to come out of cruise.

Care of the system-

Though the system gives comfort on driving, driver has to be always in alert condition
to avoid accident.
ALERT CONDITIONS –
• Unpredictable Obstacles
• Sharp Turns
• Steering control
• Drowsy Feeling
Electrical Layout & Location Of Cruise Units -
Ground terminal
Clock spring 8
pole connector
Cruise buttons
12 pole Connector

CONNECTOR INFORMATION
Conne
Connecti
ctor Connector No. of
ng Wiring IC No M/F Connector view
(Pole, Position Pins
Harness
Colour
)
( 8P, W/H IP Below
Black) horn pad 1 2 3 4
- 8 F 8 7 6 5
(12P, W/H IP Below

Black) horn pad 1 2 3 4 5 6
- 12 F 12 11 10 9 8 7
(8P, W/H IP Centre

Blue) Bazel
- 8 F
IC W/H IP-
(5+2P, Engine A-PILLAR
White) Room RIGHT
5 5+2 F
IC ( W/H IP- A PILLAR

21P,Bl Engine LEFT 10 21 M
ack)
IC W/H IP- A-PILLAR

(20P, Engine LEFT 11 20 M
Grey)

S. Symptom Reason Cause Action

No.
1 Cruise 1.Due to How to check the CLUTCH
mode not non 1.Clutch switch:
working or availability switch • Check the voltage level
not getting of signal faulty between battery ground
deactivate from 2. Brake and at K58 (break out box).
d. clutch switch • Clutch press conditions no
switch faulty voltage i.e. open
brake condition.
switch to • Clutch in idle i.e. not
ECU pressed it should be
12volt.
If above ( a) condition satisfy,
clutch switch operation is ok or
else switch is faulty.
How to check the BRAKE switch:
• Check the voltage level
between battery ground
and at K17 & K 80.
• Brake in press condition
voltage should be 12 volt &
when brake in idle
condition open condition
i.e. absence of 12 volt.
• If above condition satisfy,
brake switch operation is ok
or else switch is faulty
2 Cruise 1. Due to 1. loose 1. pl check the proper connection
mode not non connectio of wiring harness connector to
working or availability n of clock clock spring connector
not getting of signal spring 2. pl check the clock spring if
deactivate from connecto damaged replaced as per the
d. steering r and standard procedure
switches wiring 3. How to check the working of
harness steering switches:
connecto • pl connect the brake out
r box at Engine ECU wiring
2. Clock harness. Do not connect the
spring other end of brake out box
damaged to the engine ECU. check
the resistance value
3. between K35 &
Steering • k32 ( resistance w.r.t to
Switches each switch is given in
faulty below table.if particular
switch or all switch do not
satisfy the condition
mentioned in table

• Pl. change the steering

switch assembly with new
one.
3 Cruise is Due to non 1.loose 1. Pl check the proper connection

not getting availability connectio of speed sensor connector and
activated of signal n of vehicle wiring harness connector.
from speed
Vehicle sensor How to confirm the speed sensor
speed connecto faulty:
sensor r • Pl run the vehicle to see
2.Speed whether the cluster shows
sensor the speed of vehicle if yes
faulty vehicle speed sensor is said
to be ok. If not change the
speed sensor and check
with the same procedure.
• Once cluster shows the
speed of vehicle, service
engineer can check the
cruise mode as per the
procedure.

TABLE for checking the resistance value w.r.t Steering switches -
S.No. Switch Switch condition Resistance in

ohms
1 All in idle condition Not pressed 4330 +/- 5%
2 SET+ Pressed 810+/- 5%
3 SET- Pressed 420+/- 5%
4 Cruise off Pressed 150+/-5%
5 Coast / RES Pressed 1630+/-5%
TABLE for checking the voltage value w.r.t. Steering switches -
Voltage should be checked across K35 & K32
S.No. Switch Switch condition Voltage in volts

1 All in idle condition Not pressed 4.2 to 4.5volt
2 SET+ Pressed 2.6 to 3 volt
3 SET- Pressed 1.8 to 2.2 volt
4 Cruise off Pressed .87 to 1.1 volt
5 Coast / RES Pressed 3.4 to 3.8 volt

Rain Light Sensor
Contents
Introduction
Description
Operating Principle
Electrical Layout
Fitment Procedure
Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Introduction-
The primary applications of Rain Light Sensor are
1. Automatic Switching ON/OFF the wipers
2. Infinite control of the wiper speed relative to the amount of rain
3. Automatic Switching ON / OFF the headlamps in Low light/tunnel condition RLS
provides luxury feature to customer by automatically controlling Wiper & Headlamp
system.
Need for the feature

In adverse weather conditions, this rain sensor reduces the strain on the driver by
automatically controlling the wiping process, Also light sensor is extremely useful in
conditions like tunnel entry and low light condition in a day, thus increasing both
driver comfort & safety.
System Description
The system consists of:

• RLS Sensor
• Mounting Ring / Fixing Element
• ECU / Gateway (nothing but a controller) which receives data from Sensor and
accordingly activates & deactivates Wiping System & Head-Lamp System (located
below Driver Seat)
• “AUTO LIGHT” and “AUTO RAIN” Switches on Centre Bezel

Operating principle
Light Sensing
• The ambient light detection lens picks up the light / luminous intensity in the
vicinity of the vehicle.
• The frontal light detection detects the light / luminous intensity directly in front of
the vehicle.
• With intelligent software algorithm & considering difference between ambient light
detection lens & frontal light detection length accordingly Head-lamps will get On &
OFF.
Rain Sensing
• This Rain Light sensor is based on the principle of reflection and refraction.
• This sensor has Emitters & Receivers.
• The sensor transmits infrared beams towards windscreen and light bounces back
from surface of the windscreen to the receiver.
• The light bounces back from surface of the windscreen to the receiver.
• If water in any form sticks on the outside surface of the windscreen, it disturbs the
Beams and microcontroller interprets the data and determines the wiping speed.

RLS Operation -
1. Turn ON the Ignition
2. To activate the “AUTO LIGHT” feature, press switch with Auto light symbol
3. The orange LED on the switch will be continuously ON indicating that AUTO LIGHT
feature is activated. To come out of the Auto Light we have to press the switch once
again.
4. To activate the “AUTO RAIN” feature, press switch with Auto wiper symbol .
• Once “AUTO RAIN” mode is activated, system will give one WIPE on a Windshield and
the orange LED on the switch will be continuously ON indicating that AUTO RAIN
feature is activated.
• This feature will get deactivated either by turning off the ignition or pressing the
AUTO RAIN button.
• In case of any damages / scratches to windshield, new sensor needs to be installed/
assembled.
• Old sensor can not be used on the new windshield as it is calibrated for a particular
windshield.
• In case of any damage to Sensor, new sensor needs to be installed/ assembled at
authorized service stations because sensor is a non-serviceable unit.
• Auto Head-lamps will remain “ON” until enough Light intensity is not available. Once
enough light is present, after 5 Sec Head-Lamp will go OFF. This is a designed feature
to avoid false Switching ON / OFF of Headlamp.
• Do not put any band/tape outside the sensor on windshield.
• Do not use any chemical to clean inner surface of front windshield to avoid any
damage to the sensor.

Limitations -
• There is a difference between Light intensity sensed by Sensor & by Human eye. It
may possible in the evening time Head- Lamp will get on early as sensor senses it as a
Low intensity.
This is absolutely a normal behavior. In case customer doesn't require Light, he can
switch OFF “AUTO LIGHT” mode anytime.
• After sensing the water on windshield, wiping will start automatically. It might
possible that after wiping initiated you cannot see water on windshield but still wipers
will keep on
wiping. This is because of the mist present on windshield. Human eye cannot see that
but Sensor can sense it & it will keep on wiping. This is absolutely a normal behavior.
In case customer doesn't require Wipe, he can switch OFF “AUTO RAIN” mode anytime.
• Sensor cannot detect difference between water & mud, ice, snow, oil etc. In these
cases sensor may not behave properly and customer can switch OFF “AUTO RAIN”
mode manually.
Follow me home lamp –

In order to help the driver / passenger, while getting out of the vehicle during night
time, the headlight will light up for maximum 30 seconds. This feature will get
activated only when “Auto Light” switch is pressed which is mounted on centre bezel.
At low intensity, on turning off the ignition and door opening, this feature will get
activated for 30 seconds.

Electrical Layout & Location of RLS Units –

Auto Light Switch
Rain/Light Sensor and mounting ring (fixing element)

RLS Sensor Fitment Procedure –



Diagnosis –
S. No. Problem Cause Solution
1 No automatic • “AUTO” Check whether “AUTO” mode
Wiping after mode not for RLS is activated. (Put left
Rain start activated lever of Combination Switch in
• No Power to “AUTO” mode as marked on
Controller Lever)
Make sure all electrical
connections (i.e. Controller,
Sensor) are connected.
2 No automatic • “AUTO” Check whether “AUTO” mode
Head-Lamp mode not for RLS is activated. (Put left
Switch-ON activated lever of Combination Switch in
after entering • No Power to “AUTO” mode as marked on
in Tunnel / Controller Lever)
Basement Make sure all electrical
connections (i.e. Controller,
Sensor) are connected.
3 No initial Wipe • RLS Gateway Check whether RLS Gateway
after putting connector is not is connected to W/H.
RLS in Auto connected. Check whether RLS sensor is
Mode connected to W/H.
• RLS Sensor Check whether Wiper circuit
connector is is ok as per TC4 check list for
not connected Wiping System.
Check supply pin (Battery B+)
for RLS Sensor.
• Error in Check Ground Pin of RLS
Wiper circuit Sensor.
Check crimping of Wiper in
Connectors at Sensor &
Gateway End.
4 In “AUTO” Sensor sensing This is absolutely OK behavior
mode, Head- limitation below of Sensor. There is a difference
Lamps get 800LUX between actual Human Eye
switch-ON Light (LUX) Sensing & Sensor
before time. Light (LUX) Sensing.
(Roughly 20 Whenever ambient light
Min early at intensity drops below 800 LUX,
Twilight RLS will Switch-ON headlamps
Condition) in Auto mode.
If driver / owner doesn’t
require Head-Lamp, he can
come out of “AUTO” mode by
shifting Left lever of
Combination Switch.

5 In “AUTO” • As per design As per the Homologation

mode specifications requirement,
Headlamps get In “AUTO” mode Headlamps
Switch-ON in will always get Switch-ON in
Low Beam only. Low
Beam.
High Beam option is not
available for “AUTO” mode.
If user / customer want to
put
Headlamp in High Beam, he
can
always manually Switch – ON
head lamps by usual method
and activate the same.
(Note: Once manually
headlamps are ON, you are
out of “AUTO” mode hence
automatic wiping &automatic
Head-lamp ON-OFF will not
work).
6 In daytime • Manual Please check whether
bright light Switch for Manual
condition, Head-Lamp is Switch, for Headlamps is OFF
Headlamps ON. at
remain “ON” • RLS Sensor on Right Leaver of Combination
after Windshield is Switch.
activating covered with Please check whether RLS
“AUTO” mode Cloth /cardboard sensor
/ is not covered with any Cloth /
Sun Film /any cardboard / Sun film / shadow
kind of shadow.
7 In Automatic • Dirty / sticky Please check whether
Wiping Windshield in Windshield area above sensor is
condition, Sensor Area clean. It should be free form
wipers doesn’t dirt, dust, oil, sticky material
wipe with Rain etc.
Intensity RLS system is designed for
Speed. Automatic Wiping as per Rain
Intensity Speed. But user/
customer requirement will vary
from person to person.
At drizzling rain, some
customer may not feel to
Switch-ON wipers or some may
feel that wiping is required.
The wiping intensity is fixed for
Optimum Speed pattern & it is
fixed. The Customer can not
change it. If he needs faster /

slower wiping, he can switch to

Manual Wiping by going in high
/
Low Wipe mode.
8 In “Auto” • High amount RLS Sensor is very sensitive

mode though of moisture in detecting water. In Rainy
there is no water present in Season, after wiping water on
on the air windshield though we are not
windshield, able to see the water on
wipers keep on windshield, a thin layer in
wiping. terms of moisture gets
accumulated on Sensor area.
This also detected by Sensor as
Water and it keeps on Wiping.
This kind of behavior is more
common in Rainy Season since
there is lot of moisture present
in atmosphere. If require, in
such condition user can
manually switch-OFF Wipers by
coming out of “AUTO” mode.
• Damaged Check the wiper blade for
Wiper Blades wear.
If the wiper blade can not
wipe the windshield uniformly
and clearly, replace the wiper
blade with new one
9 In “Auto” Damaged Wiper Check the wiper blade for
mode though Blades wear. If the wiper blade can
rain intensity is not wipe the windshield
less, wiper uniformly and clearly, replace
keeps on the wiper blade with new one.
wiping for long
duration
10 Erratic Sensing • Air Gap Check whether there is any
for Rain & developed air gap between RLS Sensor &
Light Between Sensor Windshield.
& Check whether any water
Windshield droplet / dust / dirt is present
• Water / Dust between RLS Sensor &
/ Dirt windshield
accumulated For above both conditions,
Between Sensor we need to replace complete
& sensor with New One.
Windshield
11 RLS is sensing • Error in Check whether Lighting
Rain only no Wiper circuit System / Wiping System is ok
Light or vice a • Error in as per TC4 checklist.
versa. Head-Lamp
Circuit
12 Erratic behavior • Snow/Fog/ Snow / Fog / Smog is a form

in Smog of Water.
Snow / Fog / Sensor can not exactly
Smog. differentiate between water &
Snow / Fog / Smog. This is a
limitation of RLS. In case of
erratic sensing in such
conditions, please Switch-OFF
“AUTO” mode of RLS.

Reverse Parking Assistance System
Contents
Description
Operating principle
Electrical Layout and Location of RPAS unit
RPAS Operation
Diagnosis

Description –
Reverse Parking Assistance system is an indicating system, which detects the obstacle
behind the vehicle above the ground level and alerts the driver with the distance and
direction of the obstacle along with the alert sound while reversing the vehicle
Need for the feature -

- To indicate the driver about the obstacle behind the vehicle which cannot be viewed
by normal IRVM and Side view mirrors while taking reverse.
- To avoid accidents of the vehicle while taking reverse.
- To avoid hitting the child playing behind the vehicle while reversing the vehicle.
Operating Principle -
It works on ultrasonic principle, In case of any obstacles lying behind the vehicle up to
maximum distance defined from the rear bumper i.e. 120 cm, obstacle height should
be 30 cm from the ground.
Sensor height (from the centre of the sensor) is above 57.8 cm from ground level in un
laden condition and 44.5 cm in fully laden condition, waves get disturbed and are
reflected back to sensor and sensor transmits the signal to ECU which converts data
into Audio/Visual alarm to driver.
The audible warning begins when reversing vehicle from a distance of about 120 cm.
The smaller the distance, longer will be the beep.
• High sensitivity
• - System automatically gets activated when the vehicle is shifted to reverse gear.
• The system generates both audible and visual warning on IRVM when the vehicle
comes within 120cm of the obstacle.
• Display with car image in IRVM provides the distance in cm and the direction of the
obstacle (left or right side of the vehicle)
• 3 sensors provide the maximum coverage across the width of the vehicle.
• Uses ultrasonic frequency for accuracy
Specifications –
• Operating temperature range: 35-110°C
• 3 detection zones: Less than 50, 50-70, 70-120 cm
Maximum Detection Distance –

1st zone: 120cm – 70cm – Green indication with corresponding distance
2nd zone: 70cm – 50cm - Green & Orange indication with corresponding distance
3rd zone: Less than 50cm – Green, Orange & Red indication with STOP indication.
System Description
Reverse Parking Assistance system consists of:
• Electronic Control unit (ECU)
• Sensors (3 numbers fitted at the rear bumper)
• Internal Rear View Mirror (IRVM) with car image and buzzer integrated.

Electrical Layout & Location of RPAS Unit –

RPAS Operation -
Step by step approach –
1 Turn ON the ignition
2 Car image will appear on the left side of the

IRVM with green and orange indications
blinking 3 times confirming the system
healthiness.
3 Shift the gear to Reverse and move the
vehicle slowly.
4 -If the obstacle is more than 120 cm from the
rear bumper, then the system will not show
any indication in the IRVM and it will not give
any beep sound also.
-No directional indication.
5 If the obstacle comes at 120cm or less from
the rear bumper, system will start giving
indication with beep sound to the user.
6 - If obstacle distance from the rear bumper is
in between 120cm to 70cm
- Directional indicator will blink Green in the
corresponding direction of the obstacle and
the distance will be displayed on right side of
IRVM with the nearest multiple value of 5 like
75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110, 105, 120.
- Beep sound will come with longer interval
between the beeps.
7 Obstacle in between 120cm to 70cm
GREEN : Blink
ORANGE: OFF
RED : OFF
in between 70cm to 50cm,
- Directional indicator in the IRVM will blink
Green & Orange in the corresponding
direction of the obstacle and the distance
will be displayed on right side of IRVM with
the nearest multiple value of 5 like 70, 65,
60, 55, 50.
- Beep sound will come with shorter interval
between the beeps.
9 Obstacle in between 70cm to 50cm
GREEN : Blink
ORANGE : Blink
RED : OFF


below 50cm
- Directional indicator will be ON with
Green, Orange and Red in the corresponding
direction of the obstacle and the distance
indicator will display STOP continuous beep
sound showing danger beyond this point.
11 Obstacle in less than 50cm
GREEN : ON
ORANGE : ON
RED :ON

Limitations -
• System cannot sense the wire mesh, handrail or small objects.
• System will give wrong signal on reversing the vehicle on grasslands and bumpy
roads.
• System cannot sense the obstacle like cotton or surface which absorbs supersonic
easily.
• System may malfunction or may not function properly when the same frequency of
the system (40 KHZ) supersonic sound is created by other systems like metal sound,
high pressure emission rise or horn sound to sensor.
• The system may malfunction on a plain ground to ramp or vice versa
• System may give wrong signal by sensing the ground when the bumper is tilted more
from the normal position.
• System operation is dependent on the reflection angle of the obstacle.
• System may give false alarm during the heavy rain conditions and during the snow
conditions and heavy wind conditions.
• System may give wrong signal when the vehicle is in overloaded condition by sensing
the ground.
• System will not sense the pot holes or the trenches or drainages which are below the
ground level.
• This system is designed to be an aid and should not replace the need to drive
carefully. Under no circumstances manufacturer will accept any responsibility or liable
for any direct or indirect, incidental or consequential damage, or for any injuries
resulting
from installing or use of this system.
• This system is not designed to prevent contact with small or moving objects. It is
designed to provide a warning to assist the driver in detecting large stationary objects
when moving in reverse at parking speed of approximately less than 5 Km/ Hr.
• The reverse parking assistance system may have reduced performance or get
activated during the inclement weather.
• To help in avoiding personal injury, always use caution when in reverse and when
using the Reverse Assistance System.
• Please practice reverse parking using different obstacles to grasp this product
performance.
• Clean the sensors make them free from ice for proper working of the system.
• Pressing the sensor on active region may damage the sensor & hamper its sensing
range, in turn causing the system to malfunction.

Diagnosis -
Sr. Problem Possible causes Resolution
No.
1 Display of A. No power 1. Verify the supply and

CAR image is supply to the IRVM ground wire in the IRVM
not connector is connected
appearing in properly.
the IRVM 2. Check for the Fuse to
when the IRVM is not blown out.
switch is in 3. Check for the short of the
'ACC' power and the ground wire.
position B. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
faulted
2 Display of A. Signal from the 1. Verify the controller
the CAR controller is not connector whether it is
image going to the mirror connected properly
appeared 2. Verify with the new
and gone Controller
OFF B. Controller may 1. Verify with the new
immediately be faulted controller
2. Verify with new sensors.
3 Car image in A. Signal from the 1. Check whether the
the IRVM is sensor is not controller connector is
appearing coming to the connected properly.
but the 3 controller 2. Check whether the sensor
blinks of the connector is connected
Green and properly to the wiring
Orange LED harness of the sensor.
of the B. Controller may 1. Verify with the new
distance be faulted controller
indicators C. Sensors may be 1. Verify with the new
not coming Faulty. sensors.
on both
sides
4 Car image in A. Signal from the 1. Check whether the
the IRVM is Corresponding corresponding sensor
appearing sensor is not connector is connected
but the 3 coming to the properly.
blinks of the controller 2. Check whether the wires
Green and in pin 7 and pin 15 of the
Orange LED controller connector are
of the connected properly.
distance 3. Check whether the
indicators controller connector is
not coming connected properly.
on single B. Corresponding 1. Verify with the new
side side sensor may be sensor on the corresponding
faulted side.
5 Car image A. Signal from the 1. Check whether reverse
with 3 blinks Reverse switch is lamp is glowing during
of the Green not coming to the Reverse, if not; the problem
and Orange controller (pin 1) is in the Reverse switch.
LED 2. Check the voltage at the
appearing pin 1 to the ground. If the
during voltage is not within 12+/-
Ignition ON, 4V, then the problem is in
but the the Reverse switch wiring
system is harness.
not sensing Change the corresponding
the obstacle wiring harness.
during the B. Controller may 1. Check with the new
Reverse. be faulted Controller.
6 False alarm with A. Sensors are 1. Gently clean the sensor
display and buzzer blocked with mud, for any foreign materials
Sounds sometimes snow or ice and don't scratch the
without the sensor.
obstacle behind Sensor body should be inline
the vehicle during with the sensor cover.
reverse. B. Sensors are not 1. Check whether sensor has
installed in proper come out slightly from the
orientation. bumper.
2. Check sensors are
installed such that 'UP'
indication mark is on top
and the projection in the
sensor is fitted correctly in
the projection of the
bumper.
3. Verify whether sensor is
shifted down by more than
10 degree, if so change the
angle of the sensor towards
upside.
c. Bumper may be 1. Check whether bumper is
shifted more from shifted more from its
its original original position, if so
position correct it or change the
bumper with new one.
7 System is giving A. Sensor is not 1. Check whether sensor has
Constant false installed in proper came out slightly from the
alarm when there orientation, which bumper.
is no obstacle is sensing the 2. Check sensors are
behind the vehicle Ground or the foot installed such that 'UP'
during reverse. step. indication mark is on top
and the projection in the
sensor is fitted correctly in
the projection of the
bumper.
3. Verify whether sensor is
shifted down by more than
10 degree, if so change the
angle of the sensor towards
upside.
B. Bumper may be 1. Check whether bumper is
shifted more from shifted more from its
its original original position, if so
position correct it or change the
bumper with new one.
C. Foot step is not in 1. Verify whether the foot
its original position. step is damaged or moved
much from its original
position.
8 Only the buzzer a. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
indication is faulted
coming, but
display of the
direction and the
distance indication
is not displaying in
the IRVM.
9 Only the display a. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
indication is faulted
available, but no
buzzer indication
is
available
10 Obstacle is Sensor may be 1. Verify whether sensor
not sensed faulty body is inside the sensor
properly by cover (i.e. if sensor body
the sensor and sensor cover is not
inline), then change the
sensor. During fitment of
the sensor, sensor body
should not be touched.

Attention -
Obstacle at the blind zone cannot be sensed by the system.
Please check the condition of the obstacle behind you vehicle before reversing. In
some cases, the display may be not as same as the reality due to the sensor installed
level, obstacle shape, reflection condition and so on. Some examples are given below.
1. Point B will be detected sooner or later, but A may not be detected
forever.

2. Not all the obstacles is detected from 120cm, for instance, a person is detected
from 75cm because of the week reflection or absorption of the waves of the clothes.

3. The distance indication may move ups and downs due to different sizes of the
obstacle at different positions.
4. Though the obstacle is in the sensing zone the obstacle may not be detected since
the ultrasonic waves are not getting reflected back to the sensor because of
parallel/plain/flat surface obstacle parallel to bumper.
5. If the parallel/plain/flat surface obstacle in angular position, the obstacle will be

detected.
7. The obstacle of conical shape may not be detected, since the ultrasonic waves
get reflected away.
Note: All above sketches are for reference only

Smart Power Window
Contents
Description
Operating Principle
Function
Location of Power Window Unit
Diagnosis

whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of ©2010 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Description –
Smart Power window with anti-pinch automatically stops during express up when
obstructions are detected in the path of the closing window.
This feature is provided on both the sides (i.e. Driver & Co Driver)
Customer benefit: Safety and convenience, particularly with feature like one-touch
closing.
Operating Principle –
Motor With Hall effect sensor - Power Window assembly with in-built Hall effect
sensor in motor gives output pulses for every revolution of motor to the controller
which enables the controller to trace the position of the glass and reverse the
direction of glass in case any upward movement of glass is obstructed before it
reaches to top end position.
Controller - The electronic control unit which is programmed with logic senses and
memorizes the end positions along with the frictional resistance of door during the
learning process.
Functions
Driver/Co Driver door with anti-pinching -
AUTO UP:
• Turn ON the Ignition.
• Pull the Driver/Co Driver door switch button more than 0.5 Sec. Glass will start
moving in upward direction. Remove your hand from switch.
• During this upward travel, any obstacle is detected with the force value ranging
between 70 ~ 100 Newton, controller will sense the load and will reverse the direction
of glass in down ward direction for almost full stroke length.
• However if the force against the glass is less than the specified value then this
function does not operate.
AUTO DOWN:
• Push the Driver/Co Driver door switch button more than 0.5 sec, glass will start
move in downward direction. Remove your hand from switch.
• These all functions like Auto Up/ down, Anti-pinch during Auto UP will get
deactivated in case of removal of Vehicle Battery Positive or Negative terminal.
• With de-activation of this feature, normal power windows will still function.

Smart power window learning -

To activate the feature the learning of the power window assembly for one complete
cycle is required & is as follows –
1. Move the window glass to extreme bottom most position by continuously pressing
the switch.
2. Start moving the glass up by pressing UP switch, hold the switch for two seconds
after reaching to top most position, system will understand this position as extreme
top position of glass.
3. Start moving the glass down wards by pressing down switch, hold the switch for two
seconds after reaching bottom most position, system will understand this position as
extreme bottom position of the glass.
With the above action, the system memorizes the end positions and the controller is
set for that stroke length.
Now pull and hold the power window switch for 1 sec for express window up. The
same procedure is to be repeated for express window down.
During express up, if movement of glass is obstructed by a 70 N force or more, it will
start moving in down ward direction for almost full stroke length.
• Make sure that the passenger has his/her hands etc. inside the vehicle before closing
the windows.
• Do not leave children unattended inside the vehicle. They could unknowingly
activate switches.
Recommendations -
1. In case of vehicle Battery terminal removal (Positive & negative) the express
up/express down/ Anti pinch during express up will get de-initialized. To initialize the
function we have to learn the system for one complete cycle.
2. In case of hard whether strip condition in express Up mode, glass will treat it as an
obstacle and glass will start going down. This needs to be checked at authorized
service stations
3. In case of anti pinching 5 times continuously at the same point, controller will loose
memory, so power window needs to be re learnt.

Location of POWER WINDOW Unit –

Diagnosis –
S. Failure Symptoms / Causes Corrective

No. Effects Action
1 Power Window No electrical No power supply
not operating Feature working
In-operation of all Battery Replace / Re-
four power discharged Charge
windows / Battery battery
voltage below 9V
(Under load)
Power Window fuse High inrush Lubricate
(40A) blown current glass run
– Power window Check and
jammed replace power
window
2 Express up Regulator not Top / Down
not working initialized initialization
is
required
5 times Top / Down
continuous initialization
anti-pinch (<6 is
Seconds required
between each
anti-Pinch)
Up / Down signal Up / Down
available for signal
<0.4 Seconds required for
minimum 0.4
Seconds
3 Anti Pinch Regulator not Top / Down
working initialized initialization
is
required
5 times Top / Down
continuous initialization
anti-pinch (<6 is
Seconds required
between each
anti-Pinch)
Controller Power window
failure system to be
replaced
Hall sensor Power window
failure system to be
replaced

4 Automatic Obstacle in path Obstacle to be

anti-pinch of glass removed
during movement
Express up Glass run very Glass run to
/ Manual up hard be checked.
Glass run to
be lubricated
Glass run to
be changed.

Tyre Pressure Monitoring System
Contents
Description
TPMS Operation
Electrical Layout and location of TPMS
Care of the system
TPMS Replacement procedure
Electrical Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Description –
TPM system measures the pressure and temperature inside the tyre and transmits it to
central receiver unit inside the vehicle through radio frequency. The receiver unit
receives this information, identifies data received corresponds to which tyre and gives
warning signals if undesirable tyre pressure/ temperature condition occurs.
TPM system provides warning signals to the driver in order to understand the
healthiness of the tyre which helps him to maintain the recommend air pressure in
such a way to have a good vehicle dynamics and better fuel efficiency.
TPMS for a vehicle, comprises of –

1. Pressure sensor mounted on each wheel (FL, FR,RR,RL & Spare wheel)
2. Receiver (ECU) located in the vehicle near park brake.
3. Display unit located in the instrument cluster.
Location of the sensors, Receiver & Display unit in the vehicle –

Location of the TPMS Display unit in the instrument Cluster –
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DISPLAY UNIT

Electrical Layout & Location of TPMS Units
TPMS Controller near

Hand Brake
TPMS operation:
1 Turn on ignition.
The system performs a self check and receives

latest updated information (pressure) of all tyre
locations.
2
Note: Only applies to permanent battery fed
solution
Note: This procedure takes max. 10 seconds.

All tyres OK mode

If all conditions are OK, system confirms showing
all green LED’s. other wise during a self test
3 itself if any one of the tyre pressure is below set
value(either warning or alert condition),
deflated tyre location LED will blink orange, red
respectively.
Loop Display mode

If pressing the mode button at the end of OK
mode, the system will display the current
pressure of each tyre starting from FL. (Rotation
from FL->FR->RR->RL-> Spare) with in 10 seconds
Single tyre Display mode

4 During Loop Display mode if Mode button is
pressed again, display will show pressure & temp
of Front Left tyre.
When Mode button is pressed again within 1

5 minute, display will show pressure & temp of
Front Right tyre.

Rear Right tyre.

Rear Left tyre.
With Spare Wheel

8b
minute, display will show pressure & temp of
Spare wheel.

9a
minute, display will exit from single tyre display
mode to OK mode.

There are three warning modes (3, 4, 5) available in the system.
1. PSI
2. TEMP. °C
3. TEMP. ALERT
4. LEAKAGE ALERT
5. PRESSURE ALERT
PRESSURE ALERT —
Please check pressure -
Condition: If any one of the tyre pressure is 75% of set value (32 psi) or lower.
Response:
-The corresponding tyre LED will blink orange (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for one
minute and beep in the same frequency for 15 seconds. If driver wants to turn off the
beep sound, he has to push the mode button.
-The 3-digit 7-segment LED will show the current pressure of the deflated tyre.
-This complete procedure will be repeated only once. After this it will light up
orange continuously
-At the same time it will illuminate the pressure alert LED near the display.
UNDER PRESSURE ALARM –
Condition - If any one of the tyre pressure is 50% of set value (32 psi) or lower.
Response –
- The LED of the corresponding tyre will blink red with doubled frequency (0.1 seconds
on, 0.4 seconds off) for 2 minutes and beep at the same frequency for 15 seconds.
- If driver wants to turn off the beep sound, he has to push the mode button.

- The same sequence will be repeated continuously until the condition is improved (a
normal or warning condition has been met).
- The 3-digit 7-segment section will show the current pressure of the tyre.
- At the same time it will illuminate the pressure alert LED near the display.
- User has to attend the tyre immediately by stopping the vehicle
TEMPERATURE ALERT –
Condition - If the temperature of the concerned tyre is 100°C or higher. This can
happen running the vehicle with deflated tyre
Response -
-The LED of the corresponding tire will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
2 minutes and beep at the same frequency for 15 seconds.
- The 3-digit 7-segment section will show the current temperature of this tire.
- At the same time it will illuminate the temperature alert LED near the display.
- User has to immediately attend the tyre by stopping the vehicle
LEAKAGE ALERT –
Condition: If the specific tyre is losing more than 3 PSI within 1 minute.
Response:
-The LED of the corresponding tire will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
- The same sequence will be repeated continuously until the condition is improved (a
normal or warning condition has been met).
- At the same time it will illuminate the Leakage alert LED near the display.
- User has to immediately attend the tyre by stopping the vehicle.
OVER PRESSURE WARNING –
Condition - If the pressure of one (or more) of the tyres is 48 PSI or higher.

Response -
- The LED of the corresponding tyre will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
- If driver wants to turn off the beep sound he has to push the mode button.
- During this whole period, the 3-digit 7-segment LED will show the current pressure of
this tyre.
- Stop the vehicle immediately and check the tyre pressure

Using Spare Tyre in case of tyre puncture -

After rectification of the puncture, the swapped spare wheel should be brought back
to the original position by following steps No. 4 to 6.
If more than two tyres are to be swapped refer to sequential tyre rotation procedure.
Care to be taken while servicing -

The sensors are lightweight, mounted in the wheel rim. It’s important to be careful
when using a tyre-mounting machine. The sensor could be damaged in two ways either
by:
• Direct contact with the machine or

• By the bead of the tyre as it is forced over the rim.
- In case of tyre damage/ worn out ,the same sensor needs to be checked for the
physical damage before installing in the new tyre at recommended service station
After installation , the tyres need to be learned with system
- TPMS sensor is more precise than consumer-grade tyre pressure gauges. It may be
necessary to explain this if the customer routinely mis-inflates tyres using a gas
station gauge.
- If tyres are rotated or a sensor is replaced, the receiver must be reprogrammed,

otherwise the system will continue to report the correct pressures, but will assign
them to the wrong locations on the vehicle.
- In tyre rotation while deflating the tyre by 3 PSI, take care you are not deflating the
same tyre after long confirmation beep.

TPMS Sensor Replacement Procedure –
Dismantling –
Start breaking down tyres by deflating

them. Use a tyre valve tool to remove
the valve core from the stem to
completely deflate the tyre. Remove
all the air and then remove the
locknut. Press the sensor gently
towards inside. It will get detached
from the rim.
Then start removing the tyre bead as
follows:
Break down tyres preferably by using a

bead breaker with Nylon Roller.

While using a bead breaker, the valve

must be positioned opposite to the
bead breaker to avoid bead breaker to
avoid possible sensor damage.
Lift outer tyre bead over the rim using

a tyre tool.
Note – Valve must be positioned just

left of the start position to avoid
sensor damage.
Do not allow the tyre tool to touch the
sensor.
Lift inner tyre bead over the rim using
a tyre tool.
Note – Valve must be positioned just

left of the start position to avoid
sensor damage.
Do not allow the tyre tool to touch the
sensor.
Lift the inner tyre bead over the rim &

remove the valve stem.

Assembly –
Fit & tighten the sensor onto the

wheel rim.
Note – Tightening Torque – 5 Nm
Place inner tyre bead over the rim.

Note – Start off mounting the tyre
completely opposite to the valve
position.
Place outer tyre bead over the rim.

Note – Start off mounting the tyre
completely opposite to the valve
position.
Inflate all tyres to recommended

pressure, check valve area for leakage
& rebalance the wheels prior to
installing back on the vehicle.
Note – Recommended Tyre Pressure –

32 psi.

Tyre Rotation procedure –
After Tyre Rotation –
FL FR
5 3
RL RR
2 1
ST

Learning the system after Tyre Rotation –
1 Press and hold Mode button on display.
2 Turn on ignition.
Release Mode button when display shows L-5.

3
To program spare wheel sensor,
Proceed to step 4
Deflate spare tyre by 3 PSI. The spare wheel

sensor is programmed when a long confirmation
4 L-5 beep tone sounds with respective tyre location
LED and automatically FL tyre LED will start
blinking.
After spare tyre programming, the FL tyre will

start blinking green with icon indication
5 001 001.Deflate FL tyre by 3 PSI. The FL tyre sensor
is programmed when a long confirmation beep
tone sounds with respective tyre location LED
After FL tyre programming, FR tyre will start

blinking green with icon indication 002.Deflate
6 002 FR tyre by 3 PSI. The FR tyre sensor is
programmed when a long confirmation beep
After FR tyre programming, RR tyre will start

7 003 RR tyre by 3 PSI. The RR tyre sensor is

After RR tyre programming, RL tyre will start

8 004 RR tyre by 3 PSI. The RR tyre sensor is
Wait for 1 minute, system will come back to all

9
tyres ok mode and all LEDs will light green.
Limitations –
• TPMS does not monitor other conditions then tyre pressure & temperature,
such as tyre wear.
• TPMS is unable to detect an instant tyre burst or other defect timely and
inform the driver in advance
• At a time, only one tyre can be swapped with spare wheel.
• There may be possibility of getting SCH error on crossing environment area
prone to heavy power lines and RF signals.

Important Points:
• It is recommended to fill the pressure to 32 psi at digital gauge station only.

• Every 15 days, owner has to inflate the tyre up to 32 psi and inflation should be
done at cold condition/ambient temp.
• Pressure deviation b/w TPMS Display and Gauge will be depending upon the
following factors:
• Atmospheric pressure
• Error in pressure filling gauge( not calibrated)
• Air leakage during inflation/deflation
• TPMS measures the absolute pressure of the tyre not relative pressure( gauge
pressure)
• Pressure deviation is defined for 0.5 psi (min) and 2 psi (max) by M&M.
• TPMS sensor has inbuilt battery which has got 5 years lifespan, so sensor needs
to be replaced after 5 years.
• If vehicle battery/fuse is first disconnected and then connected, it will take 2
minutes to come to All Tyre OK mode in TPMS display.
• While inflating tyre, pressure updating will take 2 minutes on TPMS display.
• It should be noted that if you rotate the tyres or replace the sensor on your
vehicle, you MUST re-program the receiver unit inside otherwise it will consider
the sensor is on a different wheel location.
• At a time, only one tyre can be swapped with spare wheel and then follow the
learning procedure
• If more than one tyre needs to be learned, all the 5 tyres are to be learned as
per the learning spare wheel procedure mentioned in the manual.

Electrical Circuit Diagram - TPMS

Connector Information -
Connect Connecti
Connector M/
or ng Wiring IC No PINS Connector view
Position F
(Pole, Harness
Colour)
IC( 21P, IP- W/H
White) Floor
A-PILLAR
1 21 F
RIGHT
IC(13P, W/H IP-

Natural) Floor
A-PILLAR
3 13 F
RIGHT
W/H IP-
(5+2P , Engine A-PILLAR
White) Room RIGHT
5 5+2 M
( 4P , W/H IP Beneath
White) centre
console - 4 F
( 4P , W/H Floor Beneath

Black) centre
console - 4 F
( 3P , W/H Floor Beneath

White) centre
console
- 3 F

Diagnosis –
S. Symptom Reason Cause Action
No
1 Display shows 1. Due to lose of 1. Antenna connected
SCH error in signal reception with ECU might have Change the
all the tyre between all been removed. antenna.
location transmitters and 2. Pin in the antenna
receiver. may be damaged.
2 Any one of Signal interruption 1. Sensor non- 1. Check &
the tyres between particular available inside the confirm.
alone show senor and receiver tyre.
SCH error. 2. Sensor life may 2. After the
exceed 5 years life. specified
life time of
the sensor
customer
has to
replace the
sensor
3 Even if New sensor is not If the new sensor is Refer the
customer learned with fitted with old learning
changes the receiver receiver, the learning procedure.
new tyre with needs to be done.
new sensor
system shows
“SCH” error.
4 Display not Separate connector While connecting Check the
switching on. for TPMS display cluster, may forgot to four pole
not connected. (4 connect this TPMS connector
pole connector at connector. behind the
the receiver end). cluster.
5 Display not Even though all Fuse for the TPMS Refer to the
switching ON connectors are may be fused out. circuit
connected, display diagram to
not coming ON. locate the
fuse,
battery
connection
pin &
Ignition pin
and check
the 12V
supply is
available in
those pins
after switch
on ignition.

6 Display not Chances of One of the wires may The colour

switching ON disconnection of be connected to code is
signal line form dummy terminal. given in the
receiver to display back side of
in the cluster. the 4 pole
connector.
But
connection
may not be
done as per
the colour
code.
Please
Refer to the
circuit
diagram.

Wheels & Tyres
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Removal & Refitment of the tyre
Specification & Wear Data

Description
The tyres fitted in Scorpio are radial tubeless tyres and with a suitable wheel disc.
In the tyre P 235/75 R 16 - The 215 is the width of the tyre in mm at the designated
air pressure and load. The / 75 is the aspect ratio of the tyre. (Ratio between the
height and width here the height is 0.75 times the width
The tyres play a very important and vital role in the vehicle handling and ride
characteristic. Hence it is advised that any change not as per the specification have to
be done with caution.
The air pressure maintained has a direct influence on the fuel average obtained,
braking and also on ride characteristic. Hence it is imperative that the tyre pressure
be maintained as per specification. The tyre specified with the specified air pressure
gives these tyres a safe speed of 180 Km/hr
Maintain the
correct tyre
pressure.
Do the tyre
rotation.
Under Inflation
Rapid wear at Shoulder Lack of rotation
Excessive cornering.
Maintain the
correct tyre
pressure.
Rapid wear at centre Over inflation

Maintain the correct

tyre pressure.
Cracked Treads
Under Inflation
Check and adjust:

Hub end play
Camber to be
checked and
adjusted.
One Edge Wear

Excessive camber
Excessive cornering
Check & correct

Toe In
Check the chassis
bend
If tyre rotation not
carried out as per
schedule. Do the
Feathered Edge Wear tyre rotation.
Incorrect Toe In
No tyre rotation.
Balance the tyres.

Check the brake
drum roundness.
Check jammed
wheel cylinder/
calipers.
Check the wheel
bearings.
Bald Spots Avoid driving with
Unbalanced tyre
sudden brake
locking.
Out of round brake drums
in rear.

Faulty wheel bearings.
Sudden braking.
Lack of rotation or Worn Tyre rotation.
or Out of Alignment Check & replace the
Suspension suspension
components.
Wavy / Scalloped wear

Side Wall crack- radial/
diagonal Kerb damage
Stone hit
Side wall crack
circumferential / tyre Run Flat
bulging ( It is more obvious from
inside )


The tyre is one of the most abused components hence maintaining the tyre is of
utmost importance.
The recommended tyre pressures are given below:
235/70 R16
Front Rear
Up to 5 persons + 40 Kg 2.2 bar / 32 psi 2.2 bar / 32 psi

load
235/70 R16
Front Rear
More than 5 person 2.2 bar / 32 psi 2.2 bar /32 psi
The tyre pressure should be checked once in a fortnight. (Once a week during
summers). The tyre pressures should always be checked & corrected in cold
condition. The valve should be always covered with the valve cover. An opened
valve can have the valve needle stuck in a partial position causing the tyre to bleed
during operation..
The tyre pressure specified can cater to continuous high-speed performance. Hence it
is not advisable to increase the tyre pressure before going on a high speed run.
The practice of keeping the tyre pressure lower in summer is actually detrimental
to the tyre. To understand that let us examine what happens – if lower pressure is
kept. Then the sidewall flexing is going to be more hence the heat generation will
also be higher which will result in a faster increase in tyre pressure. So the wear
rate is going to be higher.
Similarly the practice of bleeding the tyre pressure to reduce the pressure after a
long run can cause the sidewall to crack and in a worst scenario sidewall bulging.
Before going on a long drive it is a good practice to remove the stones/pebbles

trapped in the treads. The probability of a puncture due to stone trapped and
digging through the crown once it gets heated up is reduced.
It should also be kept in mind that a radial tyre with higher pressure is more prone
to burst under impact from stone at high speed or kerb impact. Lower air pressure
results in higher sidewall flexing and drastically increases the chance of sidewall
damage / cut in bad roads.
Wheel balancing should be done at least every 20,000 KMs. It is compulsory to do a

balancing of the wheel after any puncture.
The tyre rotation should be carried out every 10,000 KMs.
Wheel alignment is recommended. If the wheel disc is having any deformation

particularly in the bead seating area then do not wait until the mileage has covered-
get it balanced.) In case of abnormal tyre wear refer to the Trouble shooting section
and take the corrective action suggested.
The grooves in the tyre are used to pump out the water between the road and the
tyre. In case the water is not pumped out the tyre will ride on water. Since the
coefficient of friction of water is very low that will result a sliding action. Obviously
the amount of water which the tyre can pump out between the ground and the tyre
will depend on the depth of the groove which is acting as a channel. The tyre
manufacturers recommend that a minimum tread depth of 1.6 mm should be present.
Once the tread depth is less than 1.6 mm it is recommended to replace the tyres. I t is
not advisable to retread the tyre.
Any kind of lubricant on the tyre is detrimental as it promotes degradation of rubber
and also increases the chance of hardening. Normally this happens when a mechanics
rubs the spare oil or grease on to the sidewall of the tyre.

Tyre Rotation –
1. Check & ensure tyre pressure at 2.2 bars / 32 psi in all five wheels.
2. Rotate ( swap the positions ) the wheels as shown in the diagram above
• Driver side rear goes to Driver side front position.

• Driver side front wheel goes to Co-Driver side rear position.
• Co-Driver side rear wheel goes to spare wheel position.
• Spare wheel goes to Co-Driver side front position.
• Co-Driver side front wheel goes to Driver side rear position.
In case the vehicle reports for wheel wobbling then the sequence of balancing &
rotation should be as follows:
Important: Before going ahead with the procedure; do road tests and at that time:-
Please remember that the road shocks can come to the steering wheel while going
over rough or uneven patch.
The important point is that after the road shock is over then it should not continue to
vibrate.
Preliminary Stage:
Mark each tyre assembly position with respect to the hub/ axle shaft.
Balance all the tyre and place it back it each wheel in the same position. (Tyre
pressure for all wheel-32psi)
Now follow the sequence of Stage A, Stage B, Stage C. Road test after each stage:

Sequence of operations:
Road Test A Road test B Road test
C Road test
If the stages of A, B, & C are done together then improvement may not be noticed. In
worst case scenario the problem may get aggravated.
Before dismounting the wheel Mark the position of the wheel & tyre assembly with
respect to for
Procedure the wheel
hub (uses any wheel mounting bolt as a reference and applies a paint
balancing
mark to hub with respect to disc + tyre.
Check the wheel balancing.

(Also refer Note 1)
If the imbalance amount C After B - If If the imbalance

is less than 40 gm. after road test no is > 40 gm
change in
wobbling; then
Rotate the
assembly by 180
degree in clockwise
Rotate the wheel assembly & direction
check the imbalance
Imbalance location should not

change more than 80 mm in
circumference.
The max imbalance can be 40 gms
While mounting the wheel assembly, rotate the wheel assembly by 180 degrees.
Now the matching marks will be opposite

Flow chart to attend Vibration Concern
Vibration observation at certain speed
Loosen & re-torque all Suspension

Joints, Body Mounts, Engine Mounts,
Seat Mountings & Transmission
mounts as specified in manual.
Not Resolved Resolved
Stop
Check Shock Absorber for dampening value

(by hand feel), Suspension Ball Joints &
Steering Intermediate Shaft for play
Replace the part (s), All parts are OK,

if required Not Resolved
Resolved Loosen & re-torque

Propeller Shaft
mountings
Stop
Not Resolved Resolved
Rotate the tyre Stop

one by one from
Front to Rear
Resolved Not Resolved
Stop Swap the tyre(s)

one by one with
good vehicle tyre(s)
Resolved, Change Not Resolved, Call

the Particular tyre Technical Support Cell

In Car Repairs –
The tyres should be removed and then only be attended for puncture or damage.
For removal of the tyre from the vehicle the jacking points are:
For 2WD Front- to be supported on the chassis, behind the lower arm just below the
first outrigger.
For 4WD Front -Behind the lower arm just below the first outrigger. While locating
the jack or the locating for the 2-post lift please ensure that it does not touch the
torsion bar. (It can cause the torsion bar to bend.)
For the rear wheels: below the axle.
Never go under the vehicle when it is jacked up. This jack is meant for only raising
the wheel. For any under body work/inspection support the vehicle on vehicle
stands.
If the vehicle is run with severely under inflated tyres – the vehicle stability may be
affected. A run flat wheel can also damage the wheel disc- besides literally shredding
the tyre.
Removal & Refitment of the tyre –
It is recommended that the tyre removal and re-fitment on the wheel disc be done
in a tyre specialist shop where the tyre fitting machines are available. The
advantage of the machine over the conventional method is that the damage to the
beading area is totally avoided.
In absence of the machine; ensure that:
No sharp tools are inserted while removing the tyre.

No sharp tools/ screwdriver is used while fitting the tyre.
While refitting the tyre the use of powder between the tube & the tyre is
recommended
It is recommended that the tyre be inflated to a pressure of 40 PSI. This will ensure
that the bead is locked in properly and also in centralizing. Then later reduce the
pressure to the recommended pressure.

Removal & Refitment of the spare wheel from the vehicle –
Remove the covering on the rear and

using the wheel spanner lower the spare
wheel
Lower the wheel on to the ground and

take off the locating tang from the disc.
The fitment of the old tyre to the spare

wheel carrier is the reverse of the above
procedure
While fitting the tyre on to the axle
ensure that
- The bolt holes in disc are not oblong.

- The threads of the bolt are not having
dirt – neither is there dirt/ mud in the
nut. (Generally while removing a
wheel the nuts are left in the ground
collecting dirt/mud. It is a better
practice to keep the removed nuts on
vehicle.
While tightening the wheel nut tighten in

diagonally opposite order to each other.
Failure to do so can cause vibration of

the steering wheel at high speed.
Tightening Torque’s –
Description Torque in Nm (lb-ft)

Wheel Nut (Normal/Alloy wheel) 97.5± 5 Nm
Body Mounts 55 ± 5 Nm
Specification & Wear Data –
Description Value
Run out of the tyre- radial 1.5 mm
Run out of the tyre- lateral 1.5 mm
Unbalanced allowed- tyre Max. 1.8 Kg-f
Minimum tread depth 1.6 mm

HEADLAMP AIMING/ALIGNMENT
Headlamp alignment can be done by two methods.
(1) “USING THE AIMING INSTRUMENT”
(2) “IN THE DARK ROOM”
(1) HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT USING THE AIMING INSTRUMENT:

(Follow instruction of the equipment supplier, if any)
• Ensure that the:
a) Vehicle & headlamp aiming equipment placed on the same Level
surface.
b) Check and ensure all four tyre pressures as per specification.
c) The headlamp aiming instrument height should be in the centreline of
headlamp.
Ref
er
abo
ve
illus
trati
on –
1. B
r
i
n
g
the aiming instrument lens in front of headlamp as shown in above diagram.

2. Then switch ON Headlamp LOW beam (HLLD system actuates in Park ‘ON’).
3. Keep the levelling switch in “0” position.
4. Observe the demarcation between light & dark zone. This demarcation line
should coincide with horizontal line at an angle of 15 Deg. Refer illustrations
shown below.
5. If the low beam does not coincide with the lines on the screen, adjust the
setting Screws to the set pattern at a required height (i.e. cut-off height
marked on aiming instrument), with the help of star head Screwdriver.
Refer illustration below for Demarcation between light & dark zone -

6. For RHD vehicles the oblique line at 15deg will be oriented towards LH side, and for
LHD vehicles the same will be oriented towards RH side.
7. Check the system function by moving the switch position from 0 to 3, accordingly
Cut-off pattern will move downward & at 0th position the cut-off will come at original
– 1.3% setting.
8. If the beam pattern is moving with the switch operation that means system is OK.
9. After setting both Headlamp cut-off pattern, check the head lamp reflector, There
should not be any fouling between Headlamp Reflector & Housing.
10.Head light centre height in Scorpio Vlx is 880mm from ground level.

(2) HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT IN THE DARK ROOM:
• Ensure that the:

a) Vehicle & black screen/ board both are placed on the same Level
surface.
b) Check and ensure all four tyre pressures as per specification.
c) Headlamp levelling switch position is on zero (0).
75 cm
Refer above illustration -
1. Keep the vehicle at a distance of 10 meter from the black screen in the dark room.
2. Mark the –1.3% height on the board as shown. i.e. 130mm below the Headlamp
centre height.
3. Set both LH & RH headlamp by setting the cut-off pattern at a height marked on
the board/screen.
4. Check the function of system, by operating the switch 0 to 4 and observe the cut-
off pattern movement in down word direction accordingly.
5. At zero position of switch the cut-off should come at –1.3% heights on screen.
Select the switch position as per following table for M-1 category vehicles -
Switch Position Vehicle loading condition

0 Driver / Driver with Front passenger.
1 Driver + Front passenger + Rear seat occupied
2 All seats occupied
3 All seats occupied with luggage
or Driver with luggage at extreme rear side.
NOTE:
1. Head light centre height in Scorpio Vlx/ Sle/ Lx is 880mm from ground level.
2. ‘h’ is the height 130mm below the HL-centre height i.e. –1.3% setting of cut-
off pattern. So here h (cm) is 75 cm/ 750mm.
3. Distance of vehicle from black board is 10 meters.

BODY MOUNTING BOLTS - TIGHTEN
Nut/ Bolt description Spanner Quantity Nos. Torque Value –

Size Nm.
• Body mtg. bolts 17 mm. 10 nos. 65 ± 05 Nm.
NOTE:
Body mounts/ triggers on front both are denominated as Mtg. No.1 to 5.
There are 05 Nos. Body mounts on vehicle left hand side as well as 05 Nos. on
vehicle right side.
Refer above sketch for body mount locations.
Park the vehicle in inspection pit /2 post lift/ 4 post lift.

If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected
before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting
height is correct after job complete.

EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM - CHECK

Refer above illustrations A & B.
1. Check all the Exhaust mountings for exhaust pipe fouling and correct fittings.
2. Check all the Exhaust joints for leakage and correct fittings.
3. Check rubber hanger for crack and shift, replace and correct if required.
Park the vehicle in inspection pit/ 2 post lift / 4 post lift.

If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV
spring is disconnected before lifting the vehicle & re-connect
the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting height is correct
after job complete.

Painting / Refinishing.
Contents
Trouble shooting
Paint application
Technical Terms
Paint details

Trouble Shooting

Stains under the paint Application on to a Preparation.
stained undercoat .Remove the affected
(Fall out, faulty coats with abrasive
preparation). paper
Gun cleaning problems.
Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the
final coats according
to recommended
procedure
Stain appearing in the

film under the finishing
paint.
Micro Blistering/ 1. Paint too thick. Preparation.

Pinholing 2. Flash off time too Remove the affected
short. coats with abrasive
3. Oven temperature paper.
rises too rapid. Finish sand.
4. Viscosity too high,
high paint output Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.

Concentration of very
small bubbles of solvent
or air included in the
paint film. A pierced
bubble is called a
pinhole.
Blistering 1. Absorbed salts Preparation.
incompletely Remove the affected
removed, pollution coats with abrasive
of the undercoat paper
(finger marks under
the paint), faulty Finish sand
products.
Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.
Blister or bubbles caused

by absorption or
presence of water.
Craters 1. Contamination of Remove the affected
the prepared coats with abrasive

surface causing a paper.

wetting fault Finish sand.
(silicone, grease, Mask and apply the
wax, soap, final coats according
atmospheric agents to recommended
cause which can procedure.
cause a similar
activity)
cavities in the finish

coat, possibly allowing
the previous coat to
show.

Stains or Deposits on the Stain or residue of For Deposits
Paint product deposited Treatment with a body
during manufacture, work cleaning product.
preparation or use of If the fault persist
the vehicle Polishing:
e.g. adhesives, fuel, Elimination of the fault
hydraulic fluid, using the polishing paste.
lubricant The thickness of the paint
film removed must not
exceed 8 microns.
Return the gloss with a
finishing polish.
Sanding + Polishing.
Elimination of the fault
using a suitable abrasive
paper.
The thickness of the film
removed must not exceed
8 microns. Next polish

with a polishing paste and

a finishing polish.
If the fault is still

persisting. Preparation.
Remove the affected
areas with abrasive paper.
Finish sand.
Stain: Preparation Remove
the affected coats with
abrasive paper
Finish sand
Paint. Mask and apply the
final coats as per
recommended procedure.
Atmospheric fall out Stains or deposits Remove the affected coats

mainly affecting the with abrasive paper.
horizontal surfaces of
the body work. If bare metal is showing -
apply an anti corrosion
This fall out can cause primer.
an attack in depth,
which can extend to Finish sand
flaking of the paint if it
is not dealt with Mask and apply the final
without delay. coats according to
Atmospheric fall out
can be of industrial
origin( foundry,
cement works,
furnace…), vegetable (
tree resin) or animal (
bird or insect
droppings
Runs Depending on the severity

Viscosity of the of the fault , carry out one

product:- or the other of the

following solutions:
1. Thickness too
great. Sanding +Polishing.
2. Paint flow too Elimination of the fault
great. using a suitable abrasive
3. Air pressure too paper. The thickness of
low. the paint film removed
4. Gun too near. must not exceed 8
microns. Next polish with
a polishing paste and a
finishing polish
Or
Remove the affected coats
Layers of paint or with abrasive paper.
varnish in the shape of Finish sand
a curtain starting ,
generally , on vertical Mask and apply the final
parts or from a panel coats according to
joint recommended procedure.

Scaling/Flaking Preparation.
Remove the affected
coats with abrasive
paper.
If bare metal is
showing apply an anti
corrosion primer.
Finish sand.
Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.
Flaking is related to
poor adhesion of one
coat on the previous
coat or to the base and
can affect one or
Mechanical destruction several components of
of one or more of the the vehicle.
coats of the paint film
which can extend to bare It can be caused by
metal and give rise to either
corrosion of metal parts. Stone chips, damage.
High-pressure washing
used inappropriately
Preparation or paint
procedures not
followed correctly.
Dirt Foreign bodies Preparation.
present in the air or Depending on the severity
the product during of the fault , carry out one
painting. or the other of the
following solutions:
Sanding +Polishing.
Elimination of the fault
using a suitable abrasive
paper. The thickness of
the paint film removed
must not exceed 8
microns. Next polish with
a polishing paste and a
Small solid particles finishing polish
embedded in the paint Or
producing a rough paint Remove the affected coats
surface with abrasive paper.
Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the final
coats according to

Thin paint / Lack of 1. Paint flow Preparation.
cover insufficient. Flat with fine paper to
2. Unsuitable gun obtain adhesion to the
nozzle. underneath coat
3. Gun too far away. Painting.
Mask and apply the
final coats according to
recommended
procedure
Partial or total
insufficiency of color or

varnish. It can cause

differences in color and
relief of the paint
surface or a lack of
gloss
Orange Peel Application parameters, Preparation.
solvent balance, paint Remove the affected
viscosity, surface coats with abrasive
condition of the previous paper.
coat, paint film thickness. . If bare metal is
showing apply an anti
corrosion primer
.Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure.
Pronounced undulations
of the paint film giving
a granular appearance
resembling orange peel
Insufficient gloss Insufficient thickens, Polishing.
sinking, excessive baking, Elimination of the fault
Poor reflection of light under baking of the using polishing paste.
or image which can preceding coat, faulty
appear Matt products The thickness of the
paint film removed
must not exceed 8
microns.
Return the gloss with a

finishing polish.
If the fault still persist.

Preparation.
Flat with fine paper to
obtain adhesion to the
underneath coat then
paint
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Marbling 1. Temperature of the Preparation.

application too low

2. Faulty dilution Flat with fine paper to

3. Poor spraying obtain adhesion to the
technique underneath coat.
4. Faulty gun adjustment
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Dark or light stains in

the shape of irregularly
distributed veins giving
a non uniform color to
the panel
Color difference. Preparation.
Flat with fine paper to
obtain adhesion to the
Difference in color underneath coat
visible between two
panel Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Sanding/Polishing marks Sanding/ polishing Preparation.
procedure poorly Flat with fine paper to
executed obtain adhesion to the
underneath coat
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Sanding marks:
scratches visible
through the paint film.

Polishing marks: lighter

paint halo
Deterioration The micro scratches Preparation.

can be caused by an over Polishing.
aggressive roller brush Elimination of the fault
car wash ( badly with cutting paste.
maintained, incorrectly
adjusted, etc) The thickness of paint
In this case they are removed should not
circular or lengthwise and exceed 8 microns.
cover the whole of the
body. Restore the gloss with
In other case they will be finish paste. If the
multi directional (a dirty fault persist Fine
or abrasive sponge, rubbing down +
rubbing by an object etc.) polishing.
Rub down with suitable
abrasive paper and
then polish.
Scratches
Preparation. Remove
the affected coats with
Superficial abrasive paper.
deterioration of the Finish with fine paper
paint finish Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure

Paint application
Surface preparation
Proper surface preparation is the key to top quality body panel refinishing. Even if it is
sometimes long, sanding with the adequate abrasives of suitable material and properly
trained personnel will ensure a quality result. The importance of selecting the right
grit is a must. If unsuitable grit is used then will cause damage impossible to hide. For
example a 40 grit causes very deep scratched – do not ever use this grit.
Always clean the panel surface with a wax and grease removal solution and then wipe
the surface with a lint free rag before applying primer or paint. Cleaning will also
remove any residual silicone from the painted surface.
Body putty that is procured from any major supplier is recommended. If synthetic
body filler is to be used then it should be a quality product.
Primer
The type of primer to be used is dependent on the condition of the panel surface. Bare
metal should be primed with epoxy – base. A sealant is recommended when applying a
second color coat over an existing color coat. With certain colors sealants are also
important in preventing bleed through.
Base/ Color coat
Base color coat paint finishes must be applied in a clean envoirement. Top loader guns
are recommended for applying the base / color cat paint.
Base / color coat paint should be reduced/ thinned and applied to the manufacturers
suggestion. Please refer to the manufacturer suggestion.
Basecoat/ Clearcoat
Basecoat/ Clearcoat application is a two stage process. The Basecoat is applied over
the final primer coat. The Clearcoat is then applied over the Basecoat. The Clearcoat
provides the paint finish with a high gloss and increased durability
The work areas should be well ventilated for application of Basecoat and Clearcoat
paint. More particularly when applying the Clearcoat paint.
Buffing & polishing
Minor paint defects in Basecoat/ Clearcoat can frequently be removed by light

sanding, buffing & polishing. Wet sand the defect with 600 grit soaked in mineral
spirits.
Buff the surface area with fine grade buffing compound. Finish the repair with quality
polishing compound to blend and restore the gloss.

Technical Terms
Single Coat
A single coat spray pattern is applied from left to right. After that the returning right
to left spray pattern is applied so that it overlaps the lower one half of the initial
spray pattern
Double Coat
A double coat spray pattern is applied from left to right. Then the returning spray of
right to left is applied.
Drying
Drying and hardening of the film involves 3 stage of evaporation.
1st stage- Dust free stage.
2nd stage- tack free stage.
3rd stage-hard dry stage.
It is recommended that to obtain a high quality of gloss the painting operation and
drying be done in a paint booth where the heating can be achieved.
Degrease/ De wax
Degreasing or dewaxing involves cleaning a panel surface either with 3M All-purpose

cleaner or any other equivalent. This removes the surface grease or wax
Flash Time
is the time required for the solvent to evaporate from the applied primer / paint coat.
Mist Coat
A mist coat is frequently used as the final color coat. Mist coats are overthinned paint
that is sprayed wet.
Surface Primer Coat
A surface primer must be applied over the repaired metal substrate. The body parts
taken from the Spare parts have the OE treatment of CED priming.
The primer provides a bond between the metal and the colurs base coat. Various type
of primers for use in exposed parts are available. Surface primers are available in
either sandabale or non sandabale form.
Spot putty can be applied on top of the primer to cover up small imperfections which
will not get covered / concealed by the standard primer

Reducer/ Thinners
Is mixture of volatile liquids and are used to reduce the surface primers and color coat
paints. Use only the type that is specified.
Paint Details
For paint details refer Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
The Reference Number for TSB is M&M/IO/PAINT/1/10/08
Primer
GNP reference no M&M part no

Primer 3007/00121 0118BK0020N
Base color coat
Low bake clear coat for exterior touch up.

(Use the clear coat with 5% acid catalyst)

Clear Coat 1506/00291 0118AK0030N
Acid catalyst 3920/00014 ESKM99J9574B
Thinner 1534/01216 99581
Air drying for interior touch up

NARP clear coat 1512/00036 97505
Thinner 1534/00195 99447


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SCORPIO REFRESH GASOLINE

Care of the System

Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine

Specifications & Wear Data

Sealant Application Pattern

List of the MST

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The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The

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Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the following

Cylinder compression pressure Test

 Remove all the spark plugs.

Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

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Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

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Symptom Causes Remedial action

9 Replace spark plugs

Engine does 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Replace air cleaner

3. Defective spark plugs 9 Replace spark plug

4. Air leaks in pressure line 9 Replace spark plugs

5. Fuel return pipe to tank 9 Locate the kink/block

6. Valve leak 9 Check the

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8. Gas leaks between 9 Replace gaskets.

10. Exhaust gas leak 9 Correct the leak

11. Fuels supply line kink 9 Remove the restriction.

12. Compression leak. 9 Check compression

13. Jammed piston rings 9 Replace piston rings.

14. Vacuum leak to the turbo 9 Check the vacuum

Noisy engine 1. Cylinder head gasket 9 Replace the cylinder

Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted. 9 Check for hoses,

3. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks

4. Restricted exhaust system. 9 Remove restriction or

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5. Gas leak between 9 Replace manifold

2. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

3. Restriction in air intake to 9 Locate & remove

4. Restrictions in 9 Remove the restriction

5. Restriction in crankcase 9 Check the crankcase

6. Damaged oil separator 9 Replace the oil

7. Turbocharger damaged. 9 Change oil, filter,

8. Worn out rings, liners, and 9 Overhaul engine.

9. External oil leaks 9 Stop the external oil

10. Leakages through inlet 9 Change the manifold

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11. Bend/kink in any of the oil 9 Remove the bend or

12. Defective vacuum pump. 9 Replace the vacuum

Blue smoke 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

2. Restriction in air intake to 9 Locate & remove

3. Air leak between the 9 Locate the leaks,

4. Excess oil. 9 Correct the oil level.

5. Wear in valve seal. 9 Check the valve stem

6. Wear in piston rings & 9 Check the compression

7. TC oil seal leaks 9 Check the

White smoke. 1. Improper timing 9 Check sprockets &

2. Defective cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder

Remove all the spark plugs.

Sensors (HFM, Cam Phase Sensor, Boost Pressure Sensor)