Pr0mans' Tutorial To The Apocalypse
Pr0mans' Tutorial To The Apocalypse
1 Introduction 3
2 Overview of Controls 5
3 World 7
3.1 The Creation 8
3.2 Mods 13
3.3 Suggested Mods for a Game 14
4 Character Creation 16
4.1 Scenarios 17
4.2 Professions 18
4.3 Traits 19
4.4 Attributes 28
4.5 Skills 30
5 The Story 39
6 The Game 40
6.1 Interface 42
6.2 Game mechanics 46
6.3.1 Your Characters’ Needs 47
6.3.2 Temperature and Clothing 52
6.3.3 Crafting 61
6.3.4 Construction 64
6.3.5 Combat 65
6.3.6 Status Effects 69
6.3.7 HP and Health 72
6.3.8 CBMs 74
6.3.9 Mutations 77
6.3.10 The Reality Bubble 80
6.3.11 Vehicles 81
6.4 Winning C:DDA 90
7 Guides 91
7.1 The Early Game 93
7.2 The Mid Game 97
7.3 The Late Game 102
7.4 Wilderness Start 106
Buttons of interest:
Spawn Rate Scaling Factor [0.00 to 50.00] -> Sets the amount
of monster spawning, a value of 0 would deactivate spawning
all together, while a value of 2 would effectively double the
amount of monsters. Small changes can have a huge impact on
monster density inside a town, especially when paired with
Wanders Spawns: On.
Carrion Spawn Rate scaling factor [0% to 1000%] -> Sets the
value at how often (and therefore how quick) critters spawn
out of rotten edibles, a value of 0% disables this mechanic
all together.
Item Spawn scaling factor [0.01 to 10.00] -> Sets the amount
of items found in certain locations and how many items dead
enemies carry with them.
Initial Time [0 to 23] -> this sets the time of the current
world upon spawn, 0 meaning midnight, 12 midday etc.
Settings you can safely modify would be: Zombie Spawn Rate
(set it to 1.00 or lower if deemed necessary), carrion spawn
rate (either disable it by setting it to 0 or leave it at
100%) Item spawn rate is also more than fine at 1.0 - you
will find more than enough junk and food to keep you going
just by looting houses. While this makes the early game
substantially easier to deal with, limitless frustration
makes the game experience less enjoyable as well, so beware
of setting this too low. Reducing this setting at a certain
skill level, to not get handed everything right from the
get-go makes for great runs later down the line.
I’d suggest against playing with random NPCs, as they are
currently horrendously unbalanced and can spawn with
extremely high skills and if that NPC is considering you to
be a threat, he might decide to give you a couple smacks to
make you slip the mortal coil. If you want an experience like
DayZ, except fun, go for it and bump up the NPC spawn times
to 6 before steadily decreasing it, but don’t come crying
that I didn’t warn you.
Season length should be around 30, maybe even lower so you
can see the effects of the appropriate seasons to the
surrounding world. As this changes ambient temperature as
well as what you can forage in the wilds, quicker times means
more dynamics. While you will enter difficult seasons
earlier, they will also pass earlier, requiring a lower
stockpile.
For the mods that are unsafe to add due to factions being
added, you can create a new game with those mods and copy the
specific missing faction data from master.gsav in the new
game into your old game, and then add the mod to the old
save. Be sure to back up your save file before doing so, as
being unsuccessful at trying to add a mod that adds factions
can corrupt your save.
3.3 Suggested Mods for a Game
(To find downloads for the newest versions, check the C:DDA
Discord or just employ google)
Many people have different wishes in what they’d like to have
from a mod, some just like extra content, some like
challenges, some just wanna breeze through the game.
Nevertheless, here’s a small list of Mods that I feel are
well worth the addition to your game:
Once you are happy with your worlds’ settings, you now can
select one of the different game modes to start out with.
This guide will focus on the [Custom Character] selection.
Once selected and the content mods are all loaded into the
system, not throwing any exceptions, you are brought to the
character creation screen, separated into many different
categories. First you are asked to select your point pool
system: Multiple Pools, Single Pool or Freeform (unless you
set your point pools in the world-default options). Multiple
Pools force you to use points in their respective pools or
followup pools (except for skills). So you can’t just pick a
bunch of negative traits and rack up the attributes. Single
Pool removes these limitations and you are free to use the
points at your disposal to how you see it fit. Freeform is
basically a cheat mode, you can use however many points you
wish. For this Tutorial, we are going with Multiple Pools.
4.1 Scenarios
Once you have made your decision, you can choose a specific
scenario that you are playing. These limit you in terms of
where you spawn, as what profession you can spawn, as well as
imposing certain possibilities in the trait selection and
potentially coming with extra merits that need to be
resolved. Some of these can be quite challenging, not just by
what their name suggests, but as to where and as what you are
spawned in.
Traits are the defining, well, traits that make you who you
are: A faceless, nameless git that somehow managed to survive
the initial strike of the cataclysm.
While traits may seem like something you can easily gloss
over, they are however extremely important when it comes to
how you want to experience the game.
Positive Traits:
Animal Empathy (1 point) - smaller game is less likely to run
away from you, while bigger animals like dogs, wolves or
moose are less likely to just charge at you and attack. And
believe me, moose are well-known early game character
killers. So if you have a point to spare and trouble
surviving in the wilderness, consider picking this up.
https://discourse.cataclysmdda.org/t/best-unarmed-styles-for-
early-game/15558/11
Negative Traits:
Addictive Personality (+2 Points) - Addictions will hit in
quicker for you, and you’ll have a harder time of getting rid
of them. Sounds nasty, but if you use addictive items
sparingly, like the odd cigarette, or not snort meth like
it’s going out of style, you are totally fine with this perk.
For those interested - you’d need to take in 3 doses and be
unlucky enough to get 3 addiction level increases (more on
that in Chapter 6.3.1)
Trigger Happy (+1 Point) - weapons that support full auto can
on rare occasion go full auto when firing regardless of
firing mode. Not only does this not apply if you aren’t using
firearms that don’t support full auto, if you intend to not
use firearms at all, or in extremely bad situations (where
Full auto might save your bacon) this trait is a safe pick
Perks to avoid:
These perks I consider to be too weak to be worth considering
for various reasons. Either because the application is too
limited at all, the benefits too small, or even hurtful in a
way you aren’t even expecting.
Positive:
The NPC Perks: Pretty, skilled liar (-1 Point each) - like
the negative traits, the effects gained from them are too
small to be worthwhile. With the notable exception being that
the negatives provide you with points, while with these,
you’d waste them more often than not.
Negative:
The intolerance traits (+1 or +2 Points each) - Food may be
common in some of your runs, other times however, food can be
extremely scarce. Limiting your potential food intake because
of the negatives of food that you don’t tolerate (-50 Mood
penalty of each eaten unit plus nausea, stacking) is not
worth the small amount of points gained. There is an argument
to be made by coupling this with the positive trait “Strong
Stomach” though. So take at your own risk.
Illiterate (+6 Points) - Books are not only a nice way of
raising your skills to a certain point, but more
predominantly they contain a lot of respective recipes, which
can and will save you at some point or another. While they
make for great challenge runs, illiterate characters are
having a hard time in the endgame, where powerful weaponry,
tools and armor are locked behind recipes you cannot learn.
Oh, and Terminals are also off-limit, which is also not nice.
Now that we are done with this, off to the next topic.
4.4 Attributes
(referred to as Stats ingame)
You have 4 Stats that you can only increase in their base
value at the very start of your game (mods not included), so
choose carefully.
Dexterity (Dex): You are quicker, more accurate and have more
finesse with tasks which require it, what this amounts to is
the following per point:
● +0.25 melee to-hit bonus
● +0.5 dodge level in addition to your skill
● Reduced penalty on throwing based on the targets dodge
(diminishing returns apply)
● reduced penalty to operating ranged weaponry (works in
tandem with Perception and can’t go below 0)
(Side-note: More Dex makes tasks that require finesse easier:
What this entails is that lockpicking and safecracking work
better and prying a window has a lower chance of breaking it.
Also reduces the chance of a weapon taking damage on strike)
With this in mind, going for Str and Dex specifically seems
to have the most benefits, as having an edge in combat means
you take less damage, have a lower chance of taking a bite
wound or two and allows you to carry heavier stuff with you.
However, in the long run, intelligence might be balancing out
it’s apparently not too-great early benefits with the
additional crafting benefits and it’s increased chance of CBM
installation.
So, with all of that out of the way, how would our starter
character look like? Well, let’s take a look at that:
The best part of the story? Nobody really knows what’s going
on (not even the devs). But to give you a quick rundown: You
are just another nameless citizen in a near-futuristic
(around 2040-ish) New England, a.k.a the USA, when all of a
sudden the cataclysm hit and several extra-dimensional beings
attack simultaneously. Somehow, you seem to have been spared
from the events for the most part and managed to find
yourself surviving for the first bit of the aftermath. Now,
it’s several days after the initial strike and you need to
get your ass moving to survive. However, it seems the
cataclysm hasn’t only brought zombies to the playing field,
but otherworldly beings also seem to invade the planet at the
same time. This is however not just restricted to one group
of beings far beyond our understanding. You are nothing but a
microscopic speck trying to survive in a now hostile world,
and survive you shall, or not.
6 The Game
(which you just lost)
Once you pop into the game, you are assaulted by either a
weird look of symbols, or a weird look of things barely
resembling a crude depiction of the world.
Well, that was me, to give you a general idea of how the game
looked in its original form (which is honestly quite good,
especially if you have enough imagination to fill out the
blanks, ASCII is something I can always recommend.) if you
however press [Esc] to bring up the quick menu, go to Options
(or press 2) then cycle to Graphics (lol) using the [TAB] key
and scroll down to the “Use Tileset” option, you can and
should turn that on. Directly after you can also set up your
favorite tileset to be used. I personally use the
MSX++LIVE_PEOPLE Tileset, which is a Fork of MShock, which
got forked and improved several times and turned out to be
one of the best tilesets so far.
Ahh, way better, at least you can now determine what’s what
at a glance. But what’s with all that stuff on the left and
right side of the game window? The left side might be
somewhat self-explanatory, being that you can tell what is
located where. On the other hand, the right side seems so
cluttered that you are flat-out bombarded with information.
6.1 Interface
(well, that got a rework, but hey, they just moved the stuff
around, the contents are still the same)
To get to the Interface that you are now presented with I’m
going to use the screenshot again as an example.
The entire left side of the game is your view on the world,
what’s where, where you are in relation to everything else
and so on and so forth, when you issue a command, like a
move, this view will slightly change.
Right below that empty space you see your current amount of
focus. This plays an important role in skill gain, but more
on that later.
Now for that sweet smiley that looks at you with its’
currently more than uninterested look (:|) - this is your
general happiness indicator, ranging from (D8 - depressed)
all the way to (8D - elated), more on that later when we talk
about the mechanics of the game.
On the right of that you can see your Stats, and if they are
lowered(red) or boosted(green) by various effects. As we can
see, we have 11 Strength, 11 Dexterity, 8 Intelligence, 8
Perception, all things seem to be in order.
Right below the stats you see a fat, green SAFE - this
indicates safe mode, a mode that will notify you if something
potentially threatening enters your field of view and
stopping inputs until you disable it[!} or ignore the monster
[‘] that caused the alarm. It is a great feature that saved
so many players when just doing a walk from A to B without
paying much attention, just by enabling safe mode again [!].
Left of that fat green SAFE notifier, you can see some
numbers. SPD 110, 0 W and a comfortable in green below that.
This gives you an indication of how fast you are. Given our
perks, we have a speed of 110% and since we haven’t taken a
step, walking speed hasn’t changed yet.
Comfortable in the apocalypse? well that is going to change,
one way or the other. This is just a general indicator on how
the temperature outside feels to you with your current amount
of clothing on.
Below the location name are currently positioned is the
current weather as well as the moons’ position. So we know
there’s some small snowfall going on, and we can’t discern
the moon's location. Oh well, could be worse.
Right of that is the indicator for light levels: Lighting:
Very Dark, meaning we see jack shit as of right now. Why is
that? well, all the curtains are closed. Light plays an
important role in noticing things and things noticing you
(bare a couple monster differences)
The big empty space below all of that is a log for messages.
How much damage you do, how much damage the enemy does, if
you evade an attack, what you just did, everything remotely
thinkable off will land in there. By pressing [P] you can
access the message log and scroll through recent messages you
may have missed.
And last but not least, at the very bottom is a radar that
shows you a more detailed look of what you can see. Enemies
would be marked as red dots, NPC’s as violet dots and so on
and so forth. Makes finding minefields somewhat easy if you
know their pattern and occurrence positions.
And that pretty much covers the interface, all of those funny
values will change when you play, either to the positive or
negative, depending on how you do.
6.2 Game mechanics
The big one and I mean the BIG ONE is water. Water is
essential for survival, without water, you are a goner within
a couple days at best. While being thirsty in itself is not
much of a problem, barely reducing your speed (extremely
small % amounts), it can add up with other negatives, so
having a drink every now and then keeps you happy, and more
importantly, keeps you alive. Having a good supply of
drinkable water is mandatory for any basic form of survival,
besides it being the need that ticks down the fastest, which
is also why it is your most important need. Beware, as many
sources of water are not inherently drinkable. Most notably -
toilet water, which newer players tend to drink without
checking the consequences. Drinking unpurified water carries
the risk of giving you food poisoning. While ponds and rivers
have a chance to poison you, it is in a pinch doable to drink
from them to quench your thirst, remember that you are taking
a risk. And vomiting out the water and potentially food you
had beforehand would just waste supplies as well as hitting
your mood badly for a while.
The next big thing on the list is food. Food comes in various
shapes, tastes and forms, but it all has one important factor
- to keep your stomach filled and you running. Being hungry
has no negatives at all, but being famished or worse starts
to impact your stats and speed noticeably. Not just that, but
your body’s fat reserves are also being drained by doing
exhausting tasks like massive crafting projects, meaning
you’ll be forced to eat high-density food, which may impact
your mood. But rejoice, food is plentiful if you know where
to look. Forests have edibles in them for most of the year.
You can get by eating junk food you looted from houses, off
of enemies, but sooner or later, you want to properly stock
up on long lasting food.
So what should you aim for on your focus? The higher the
better obviously. But, what is the normal value of focus? For
any character without any particular mood effects, it tends
to fluctuate around 100, depending on actions done. Mood
increases in small steps by eating food, being comfy, doing
fun things and the likes and with that, you can reach around
130+ mood relatively easily. If you employ drugs or similar,
you can bump that even higher though. But this can also turn
the other way and you can easily end up being stuck at 30
focus or lower, either by draining it heavily - combat is a
great way to do so - or by doing bad things. But what could
be considered bad in a world where there’s the living dead
and extraterrestrial beings roaming the world? Well, your
character is still a human, and may think of human life as
valuable. Killing other humans can occur a hefty penalty
(killed innocent: -100 happiness), as can losing a friend
(long-term companions that you recruited using the “We’re
friends” talk option, as you will also consider them a
friend, just as they do you). This is not the only threat to
your happiness, as things that one would have scruples
killing, like zombie children, will occur a small, but
stacking penalty to your overall happiness. However, the
biggest threat that you can encounter in this regard is not
the undead, not the humans (those are too rare anyways to be
a bother), but rain!
Being wet, which your clothing most likely will not protect
you from, will incur a nasty -55 penalty to your happiness
and also carries the extra risk of you catching a cold. While
it is absurdly easy to remove (use a towel), you can quickly
forget that this is an option.
Well…
Eyes:
● negative 1 Per while checking traps/calculating NV for
each 10 encumberment
● Extra +0.5 throwing dispersion per point of encumbrance
● extra +0.25 ranged dispersion per point of encumbrance
Mouth:
● running costs + (mouth encumberment lvl * 5) increased
stamina
● decreases yelling volume
Torso:
● negative 1% melee to hit per point of encumbrance
● melee swings cost +1 movement point per encumbrance
● negative 0.1 dodge skill per point of encumbrance
● swimming Encumbrance Lvl /10 * (80 - Swimming Skill Lvl
* 3)
Arms:
● extra aiming penalty by 2*arm encumberment
Hands:
● extra reloading time: 30*hand encumberment lvl
● throwing dexterity (throwing - hand encumberment lvl)
legs:
● Running cost + (leg encumbrance * 3)
● swimming cost: encumbrance * (50 - Swimming Skill lvl *
2)
● dodge skill: -encumberment/2
Feet:
● running cost + (feet encumbrance Level * 5)
Basically - the more you wear, the less freely you can move,
which, in combat, can be pretty hampering. However, clothing
does make up for it, we already know that it has warmth, we
know it’s protecting you, to a degree, but how does that
actually work? We’ll talk about that now:
Armor values on gear are what is between you and the zombie
that is trying to maul you and use your skull as a muesli
bowl. Armor is separated into the following damage types:
CUT, BASH, BALLISTIC, ACID, FIRE, ENVIRONMENTAL. The more it
has, the better protected the body part is, makes sense
right?
Yes and no, again, coverage is king on the matter of BASH and
CUT. Since %-Coverage determines if a hit done to you will be
reduced by your respective armor values, or bypassing it in
its entirety. This will be checked for each layer that you
wear when a body part is attacked. So it may be worthwhile to
stack up on as much armor as possible for each body part,
right? No, have you not payed attention yet? Armor that is
fully covering and has great protective values will most
likely encumber you to hell and back, making you nothing
short of a sitting duck, ready to be ripped apart. It is a
fine balancing line that you need to find for yourself, how
many pieces of armor and clothing you require to not be too
encumbered whilst also being protected enough to not just
straight-up get killed in close combat.
But what about the other values? Well, Acid protection means
that you are able to withstand attacks that would be
considered corrosive and that will deal relatively quick
damage to the hit body part. You will quickly, and
potentially painfully learn to avoid these kinds of attacks
once you get into actual contact with them while unprotected.
But how does it actually work?
And last but not least, each piece of clothing can have
several extra effects, which I’m going to list:
● pockets
● hood
● rain protection
● gas protection
● radiation protection
● electricity protection
● built-in sheath/holster
● tool storage/loops
● durability (not exclusive to clothes, but is still a
special)
The hood will be used in the same way, as long as you are not
wearing headgear (a.k.a your head is unencumbered)
If you however want to look for a specific item, you can also
open up the search by pressing [f] inside the crafting menu.
You will be shown a bunch of search parameters you can look
after. This is a godsend, as it quickly allows you to search
for items with the appropriate qualities, what something
might be a component out of to guess its’ value and so on and
so forth. If you have a search results page op
ened, press [r] to clean the results and head back to the
standard crafting overview.
Should you notice that you are unable to craft a certain item
despite you having all the components, make sure to check if
all the conditions are met - is it bright enough or are you
too sad to perform a craft? The Top right corner will tell
you in red what the issue is. Is one of the tools marked in a
brown color? That means the Tool property is on an item that
is also a component of the craft. You can’t just hammer a
rock using itself into pebbles, nor can you use one of your
two makeshift welders to turn them into a vehicle welding rig
- you require an extra tool that provides you with that
quality.
Each weapon has its own damage type: CUT, BASH or PIERCE
(technically that is also cut with a different flag to it)
and other factors that all should calculate into if you want
to use a weapon or not, but let’s not worry about that, as we
will just assume you landed a hit. The weapons damage values
(which you can see by checking it in the inventory), as well
as your Str (visible in the [@] screen) and %-skill damage
bonus will be added together to your melee dice roll(which
will increase with more melee skill at high levels)(citation
needed here) and determine the damage done to the enemy minus
its armor values. Each enemy has a fixed amount of armor for
different damage types - CUT and BASH, as those are the only
2 damage types a player can do. PIERCE is a derivative of CUT
and checks against this armor type. Bullets and the likes
tend to go for CUT damage (except for blunt ammo, like target
arrows, or Beanbag rounds which deal BASH, or piercing ammo
like Flechette which also comes with heavy armor-piercing
values).
Each strike done against an enemy will, however also have the
chance of being a critical hit. This has the added benefit of
being maximum applicable damage and your chance to land a
critical strike increase with the appropriate weapon skill.
But what about that fun little green bar called stamina?
Well, each weapon has a fixed stamina cost to swing. Each
movement done has a fixed stamina cost - usually not
noteworthy, unless you are overburdened, which increases the
cost the higher you are over your limit or when your
legs/feet are too heavily encumbered, most likely a
combination of both - But we will only worry about the swing.
Stamina required for a swing is based on the items’ weight
and volume and therefore speed - swinging a knife is
definitely easier than swinging around a 100L wooden barrel.
The stamina cost of your swing will also be modified by the
current encumbrance to Torso and Arms. so be sure to not be
too heavily wrapped up in gear. Why does it matter? Once you
run out of stamina, your swings will hit for less and take up
lots of time, not to mention the winded effect, which occurs
when you drain the entirety of your stamina and need to catch
your breath (-4 all Stats). But swinging fast and for little
cost also comes at its’ own risk - if you deal next to no
damage, you are gonna be winded in no time regardless. This
is most notable when doing unarmed combat and also the reason
why it is a quick and easy way to get hurt. While unarmed
combat is great for murdering zombies once you hit a decent
level (3 is minimum for most players, 5+ recommended) and a
great unarmed style, when just starting out at rank 0, you
will most likely hit like a wet noodle and just waste
stamina. So even something as simple as stamina management
can be a win or loss determining effect in combat.
I’ve talked about it every now and then and it kept cropping
up in different topics, so I guess we will have to have that
talk now. So what are CBMs - CBM stands for Compact Bionic
Module and are basically nothing but augmentations for the
everyman that could achieve the cost. Well, that and survive
the operation.
To be able to activate any CBM, you require power. This power
doesn’t come from just plugging yourself into an outlet, you
have to have some power storage banks installed. Not only
that, you also require a means to generate power to fill
those storages somehow, to which there are several methods,
though each of them requires a CBM to be installed to work.
Besides those, there are two kinds of CBMs that you can have
installed - active, and passive ones.
Active CBMs work by opening up your CBM menu [p] and
selecting it via button to drain the energy and activate the
CBM. They can have all different kinds of effects, from
having flamethrowers built into your hands, to a laser from
your fingertips up to a toolset that is useable on demand or
just some general utility features like blocking vision or
sound. There are also very powerful weapons and combat
related CBMs that will drastically increase your damage
output.
Then there are the passive CBMs, note that all failed
installations will also fall into this category. These CBMs
will quietly work in the background for you and can have
several benefits (or detriments) like improved Stats, extra
Armor or effects like glare protection, while faulty CBMs
have severe negative effects that can and will mess up your
runs and plans. Some power generating CBMs are also passively
working in the background.
But how do you install these CBMs and how do you even obtain
them? Well, before we answer the installation, we should talk
about acquiring them: For once, some high-tech electronic
stores could have CBMs lying around, high-tech structures
like Military Bunkers or Science Labs are also likely to have
easy access to those. But what about in the field? Well,
shocker zombies (as well as their big cousin, the shocker
brute) come with built-in CBMs that you will need to cut out
of them using the appropriate tools - namely a tool with
fine-cutting quality, the better the quality, the more chance
you have to obtain those sweet CBMs. Many knives come with a
fine cutting quality of 1, the X-Acto knife even has 2, but
the best tool would be a scalpel, with 3 in fine cutting
quality. Makes sense, since hey, you’d require a great deal
of precision to make fine cuts to remove something like a CBM
without carrying over meaty pieces from where you cut it out.
But who’d want to put stuff into them they just cut out of an
enemy that is technically considered to be the living dead?
Apparently, you do, but now what?
Regardless of the outcome, the CBM will be used up. But for
the event that you did end up with a failed installation and
are now having to remove it, the AutoDoc can do that too,
provided you still have Anesthetics left. See why you should
weigh each installation decision?
http://cddawiki.chezzo.com/cdda_wiki/index.php?title=List_of_
mutations
Yet the game doesn’t slow down to a crawl and runs like a
fortress in DF a couple years in (for the most part), this is
due to the feature called the Reality Bubble: With the player
as the center, the tiles that are loaded are in a range of
around 60 tiles in each direction, resulting in a 7x7 (a
small bit shorter) of overmap tiles to be constantly loaded
at all times. The Reality Bubble moves the same way you do.
Everything outside of that Reality Bubble does technically
not exist for as long as it is not loaded.
So, how is this all working out? Well, you can either find a
vehicle you like in the open, on roads or near certain
buildings, or create one on your own (which is not
recommended for anything that is supposed to drive on your
first run), however, most vehicles you will find out there
that seem to be functional most likely will come with some
problems. They either miss some crucial parts, gas, power or
their keys. There are so many possible faults to a car, that
finding one in pristine condition with its keys is going to
be a rarity. However, let’s talk about vehicular controls
real quick.
This is the core of the vehicle system and how you will
interact with it.
From the vehicle menu you can [i]nstall parts, [r]epair
parts, re[f]ill fuel sources, rem[o]ve parts, [s]iphon
fluids, [c]hange tires, [m]end any faulty parts, r[e]name the
vehicle or assign cre[w] to a seat. (fixed NPC spot they will
take)
But how and where do you install these parts? Well, the left
hand view that shows you the vehicle can be navigated using
the NumPad. Pressing [i] to install a part onto an existing
tile of the vehicle will show you a list of what can
currently be installed into that location. Pressing [o] will
allow you to remove parts from this location respectively.
You can also attach a new structure-part to the 4 cardinal
sides of an already existing structure-part, this is used to
expand vehicles in several ways, mostly to increase its size
and therefore what you can fit into it.
So, with that in mind, with me talking about structure parts
and the likes, how are vehicles composed in terms of their
parts? Each vehicle has several layers to it, just like
clothing, but in this case, it determines where the part is
sitting in relative height:
● Roof
● Center
● Fuel source
● Engine block
● Structure
● Under
● Armor
● Anywhere/Other
So, with that out of the way, how does it work? Well, to be
able to do work on a vehicle, you require tools, a lot of
them, each according to the part you want to work on:
● Bolt Turning / Fine Bolt Turning (Wrench)
● Screwdriving (Screwdriver)
● Metal Sawing / Fine Metal Sawing (Hacksaw)
● Hammer + Nails (for wooden parts)
● Welder + Glare Protection 2 (for metal parts)
After this step, the examine screen will show you your
freshly made vehicle - except it’s lacking all of the
components that would classify it as a proper “vehicle”. So
first and foremost, we should expand this. Assuming we’d be
working a 3x3 vehicle, something bare-bones, this would mean
attaching 8 more frames to that single one that we have
sitting there. Structure parts - meaning frames - are
required to attach anything else to it, with the exception of
rams, which are slapped next to existing structure parts. By
either welding or nailing frames together, you now managed to
get a 3x3 of framing set up, looking something like this:
+++
+++
+++
But what to do with it? The first thing that would make sense
is to slap on some wheels for it to be drivable. The amount
of wheels is quite expansive - from simple caster wheels up
to Armored 32” wide wheels or tank treads, lots of different
wheels can be attached to the frame. If we were to attach
them, we should do it in a location that makes sense, the
outer layer of the car. Not like we have much space to work
with anyways.
You do require your wheels to be in sensible positions, you
can’t just have the entirety of 4 (or more) wheels close to
the front/back of your car. Doing this will make it unstable
when driving and cause you to skid around way more often.
This raises the question of what wheels to put on it. The
important factor is that your wheels need to have at least 1
axle that is steerable. Certain wheels, like Wooden Cart
Wheels and Banded Wooden Cart Wheels come with the
[NOSTEERING] flag and therefore can only be used to have
static wheels on them. When installing wheels, make sure to
see if the “Wheel-name” (Steerable) is an option to install
it, otherwise you will most likely be unable to turn. Usually
17” wheels from any beat down car are sufficient and shall be
used for this quick demonstration.
this would make the vehicle look something like this
0+0
+++
0+0
0+0
+#+
0+0
But wait, how are we going to control the vehicle? It’s not
like it comes with a built-in control. This is the hardest
part and can be frustrating as all hell to obtain, as most
vehicle controls inside a vehicle are behind a broken
security system, which still needs to be removed (4 mech/4
elec). You could technically try [s]mashing out the broken
security system, this however also carries the risk of
destroying the other parts, namely the controls. But if you
do lack the skills and have an abundance of controls
installed in other cars that are otherwise unusable, you
gotta do what you gotta do.
This would be the only part (if you exclusively used wooden
frames) that requires actual welding to install, so a welding
tool is gonna be required at some point or another, it is
only a matter of how much you are going to use it.
Well, our vehicle didn’t change all that much, but now..
well, we can control it, it has wheels, some of them are
steerable. Still, we are missing a way of propulsion. So we
have to find a suitable engine. Considering the vehicle would
be extremely light at this point, only consisting of a couple
wheels and frames, any engine would do, from a simple 1.25l
inline-engine to a powerful V12. Considering the fuel
efficiency and extra skills required to install a big ass
engine, you should go smaller instead of bigger, as the only
thing improved is acceleration and maximum safe/top speed.
But going too fast might cause risks of their own, namely you
driving straight into a minefield, tree or any other hazard,
and since we did not yet bother installing a seatbelt, this
would send you flying, and most likely, end up dead.
To spark the engine, we also require some form of power, so a
battery is also required, with sufficient charge to actually
get the engine to fire. An alternator would also be nice,
this way your battery will receive charge for as long as the
engine is running. These parts are relatively easy to come
across, so one would have no trouble finding and installing
them. So once we move our ass and collect the required parts,
namely a small engine, an alternator plus a battery with a
sufficient charge, usually around 10-15% is enough, we go
ahead and install them, for now, into the center tile.
This also goes to show how the system of car parts works. As
the engine block is considered to be its own location, it can
be installed in the spot with our seat no problem. As the
alternator is considered to be an extension part for the
Engine, this can also be installed on the same spot and the
battery is located in the “fuel source” location, as it
sparks the engine. Battery power is considered fuel for
engines, electric motors and tool stations inside a car.
┌─┐
│#│
└=┘
And with this in mind - go ahead and enjoy the challenges you
may wish to set out for yourself.
Just remember one thing: Set yourself some goals! Early on,
you might wish to just make it through an entire week without
death, or you wish to visit a certain location x times by
finding multiples of it on the overworld. Or you wish to
tackle a certain tough enemy to declare that you won C:DDA.
7 Guides
This is it - the place 80% of readers most likely will have
skipped to, in order to check out what to aim for, what to
do, what to not do. And I’m more than happy to provide.
However, before I can just go ahead and drop you a cheat
sheet to check out, I feel that we need to define one last
thing - the stages of the game.
With that out of the way, the following pages will contain a
page of information on their respective first pages carrying
information what you should aim for, what is important to get
out of the way and what would be considered “Luxury”.
7.1 The Early Game
Immediate needs:
-Water
-Food
-Shelter
-initial tools
Luxury:
-Tools
-Toolbox
-Welder/Acetylene Torch + Welding goggles/PBA Mask
-Meds
-Antiseptic (Either liquid or powder)
-Painkillers
-Antibiotics
-Weapons
-Shotgun of any kind
-Rifle of medium/high calibre (.45 ACP minimum)
-powerful melee weapon (Katana, Steel Spear, Mace etc.)
-Shopping Cart or similar
-Any sort of books that raise skills/contain recipes
Goal: Survive
First things first - check the Terminal, select “Contact Us”
to get a marker to the closest refugee center as well as
(hopefully) the main road to follow just to uncover more of
the map. Back to your needs:
How do you achieve all of this? Water first - Either loot
Houses/Grocery Stores, or if towns are too overrun to enter,
find a suitable item that has boiling quality of 1. This can
range from Glass containers (jar, 3L jar, bottle) to a tin or
aluminum can. If there are plentiful Forest tiles nearby, you
can forage the underbushes by [e]xamining them and maybe
manage to find trash, to which those containers all count. As
a byproduct you will also find lots of vegetables. Note: as
of the recent rebalances in experimental, veggies barely are
worth picking up, making forest spawns more difficult. They
will fill your belly, but the calorie intake is laughable,
except for nuts and eggs that will serve as an initial food
supply, ticking off two things at once (a frying pan/pot or
stone pot is however required to process those into truly
safe foods).
n the topic of food it is also interesting to raid farms
around the rural parts of the map, as they provide many
different veggies, fruits and sometimes have encased animals
that are more or less free game for any ranged character.
Raiding a farm and having a way to process foods can last you
a while.
Another way of tackling water might be to deconstruct the
newly implemented roofs of the shelter - namely the standing
tank, which has 4 60L storage tanks, which also come with
boiling qualities. This requires a screwdriver and hammer
(makeshift tools might help you here) to do so though.
The Evacuee Shelter makes for a decent shelter to begin with,
since it has a permanent light source (Terminal), lots of
crafting resources (Benches, Curtains) and a basement (fixed
temperature to store your food in so it won’t freeze/thaw and
subsequencially rot).
Some of the tools on the list can be crafted early, at least
makeshift or crude versions of it. Most of those require
Fabrication and Survival in the ranges of 1-2 each, so once
water and food are set and you can’t go looting, do some
crafting instead.
A decent weapon of your choice should be mandatory before
entering combat. A Nailboard/Makeshift Crowbar will do for
bashing weapons, a wooden spear is pretty much your only
option for piercing (2 fab/1 survival)when it comes to
crafted weapons - This is due to the fact that knife spears
and forked spears are considered “Flimsy” and will break
after only a couple swings - and cutting users can go with
the crude sword (requiring the 2-by-sword, also craftable),
or a makeshift machete if they can find and disassemble a
lawn mower and some duct tape.
If you have had the luck/bad luck to not see any cities in
the immediate surroundings of your starting shelter, once you
are stabilized, that would be the perfect opportunity to
venture out, follow the road and look for a city to loot.
Immediate needs:
-stronger gear
-vehicle tools
-drugs/meds
-food stockpile
-a game plan moving forward
Luxury:
-A functioning car fitting for your needs.
-CBMs stockpiled up
-Martial Arts / Weapon Arts
-High-Power firearms (M249, M60, M107A, Compound bow etc.)
Goals:
-get a vehicle/base up and running
-improve your gear
As you can see, the list is already shrinking - your most
pressing needs are now advancements that are not crucial to
survival, but to make survival even easier than it is. Gear
currently equipped can now be interchanged for gear that you
feel is better for your survival needs, like stronger defense
in combat or more storage capabilities and you will sooner
rather than later require a set of wheels to drive you
around, as walking longer distances takes considerable time
besides limiting what you can bring along.
Immediate needs:
-none
Luxury:
-Power Armor
-laser weapons
-fun
Goals:
-challenge the different late game encounters
-not getting bored
In order to not spoil the Science Lab too much for you, this
advice on different ways to enter it is the only one I will
provide, now it’s all up to you, and tread carefully.
With that in mind, what else should you work on to make life
on the road and as the most powerful being more convenient?
Well, Tool Stations for vehicles would be pretty swell. A
Welding Rig, Kitchen Unit/Chemistry Lab and maybe a fridge. A
vehicle forge and the FOODCO Kitchen Buddy all make for great
additions to a mobile base. Those can either be found in the
appropriate vehicles or, more likely - be crafted by yourself
if you happen to have the appropriate books. But how do you
protect these valuable stations from being smacked up by
zombies while you are out, looting? Either by armoring up and
providing your vehicle with a nice batch of different armor
parts, or by using turrets.
So, what about this End Game gear that I was talking about?
Well, for once, there are buildings we haven’t even talked
about, either because they didn’t seem all too valuable in
the earlier stages of the game, or are too heavily guarded to
bother with.
Not only labs provide a nice batch of CBMs and Late Game gear
that is ready for the taking, but there’s also some heavy
loot to be found right in the middle of cities - namely
inside Bank Vaults.
However, as of the recent versions, banks do seem to come
packed with security bots, which are more than willing to
turn anybody heading too close to them into swiss cheese,
which is why I avoided talking about them. Not just that -
but any building that is secured with an alarm (Museum, Pawn
Shop, Banks to name a few) and which is broken into
(destroying a window, breaking the door etc.) will cause an
Eyebot to spawn. They are not too terrible on their own, yet
have the ability to call in reinforcements. This can quickly
overwhelm you and end your life, so you might want to
exercise caution when attempting some breaking and entering.
In addition, if you wish to crack safes that you come across
quietly, you will require either a stethoscope or the
Enhanced Hearing CBM. Stethoscopes can be found inside
ambulances, the CBM, well, we talked about that earlier. Not
only do bank vaults rarely contain some really decent recipe
books regarding items that require Plutonium, their safes
also contain pieces of Power Armor, the best piece of gear
you can wear. It makes you pretty much impervious to normal
attacks or small/medium caliber gunfire and shrapnel,
depending on range. With that worn you are pretty much a
walking tank, ready to wreck the world. That is, if you can
operate it.
Or maybe you are tired of having to fight off the enemies and
wish to take the fight to them? Then look no further, as
there are several Overmap Specials that you can challenge for
a good old fight. All the Fungal Structures should be avoided
until you are at this stage unless you know precisely what
you are doing - a fungal infection is pretty much a
game-ender, despite it not technically killing you if you
have no way to cure it.
Immediate Needs:
-Shelter!
-Water
-Food
Luxury:
-finding proper tools
-finding a crash site / wreckage
-making / Finding a cart
Water helps out a long way, but only so much. Food on the
other hand can easily be found by foraging, hunting small to
medium game and this also has the added benefits of providing
you with containers for boiling, in the form of sealed
stomachs, as well as potential pelts, since clothing is
sparse inside forests.
For personal preference you are more than welcome to swap out
anything you like, but I feel that from a combat-standpoint,
this character can hold his own well, while also taking a
weapon choice that is pretty good to start out with - though
may be a bit annoying to craft unless you specifically head
for it first.
8.1 The Early Game
Yeah, that requires some work. good thing we made that needle
and bandages, with tailoring 1, we should have a somewhat
easier time getting some gear up and running. So we grind our
tailoring to 2 using pairs of light gloves (or any other
recipe, it’s all up to you) and at rank 2 we should
definitely make a long underwear top since that is close to
the skin and therefore a great piece of clothing to wear as
well as a balaclava to increase head and mouth temperature.
To grind further, I’d suggest using the T-shirt recipe, since
that can also be disassembled instead of cut up, returning
the full crafting resources.
Pr0-Tip: if you fail a couple of crafts, don’t sweat it, the
shelter has generally enough sheets to keep you outfitted for
the first crafts that you do.
But why tailoring 3? Is clothing that important? Well, it is
important in a sense that you require some pockets to store
all the phat loots in, while also being free enough to be a
force in combat, yet also not freezing to death. A clothing
combo I’d suggest is a long underwear top, Duster and
Backpack, Balaclava + boonie hat, some form of pants and
respective boots. (the winter boots you spawn in quickly will
turn your feet warm)
Well, I’m pretty happy with how things turned out. And since
we are now properly equipped it’s time to go exploring (we
traded in a bit of defense from the winter coat for way more
pockets and less encumberment all around) The spear makes for
a great weapon against basically anything, except the zombie
Soldier, but this is simply due to its’ low damage values.
So it is now day 5
I’m pretty well situated for where I started out as, have
some gear and food stocks, now I should work on scavenging
together some tools and maybe look for a vehicle that would
be worthwhile turning into a base.
Another factor in “leaving” my shelter, speak my base behind,
is the fact that the shocker brute is walking awfully close
to it, and he has no trouble smashing up some house walls to
get to my fleshy parts.
So not only did we tick off the most pressing needs in the
form of water, food and gear (god that toolbox drop) as well
as shelter - the starting evacuee shelter makes for a great
makeshift base of operations to start out with, but we also
managed to scout out some vehicles, are about to set up a
forge to allow for some extra weapons as sidearms to switch
to and can freely grind any skill we like, as not many
enemies at this stage pose much of a threat, with the
exception of shocker brutes and enemies bigger than that.
While reading, I totally did not notice that one of the books
I looted appears to give me the weapon arts “Fencing”, so I
guess instead of going for an Estoc, I’ll make a broadsword
instead as it is a compatible weapon for this style. Having
multiple melee options is not a bad thing anyways. So off to
more looting, resources for better armor are not just
acquired overnight, at least for the most part.
Q: Why am I sick?
A: General sicknesses like the common cold of flu just
happen, unless you wear a gas mask or similar constantly,
avoiding those is gonna be next to impossible. If you got
poisoned or gained food poisoning, this happened because the
food you decided to throw into your system wasn’t meant for
eating raw. Some enemies can also infect you with
disease-like status effects - those wear off over time.