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Tilda Friends Fia Doll

Height: 52cm (20½in)

The Fia Doll can be made in Tilda Doll Fabric in Caramel (140002) or Biscuit (140001).
Tilda Merino wool doll hair is available in six colours.

You will need

• Tilda doll fabric 55cm x 50cm (21¾in x 19¾in)
• Tilda Merino wool doll hair approx. quarter of a ball
• Embroidery yarn in similar colour to skin fabric, for sewing on arms and legs (optional)
• Fiberfill approx. 170g

We also recommend using the following:

• Sewing machine
• Matching thread and a sewing needle for hand sewing
• Larger needle for yarn
• Flower stick or chopstick for turning and stuffing
• Thick paper for copying patterns
• Black hobby paint and a small metal-headed pin for eyes
• Soft pink lipstick, rouge or stamp pad, and a dry brush for rosy cheeks

Making the Doll

1 Refer to the bullet points below on making the project and read all the project
instructions through before you start.
• We suggest copying or gluing all the pattern pieces onto thick paper and then cutting
out the shapes.
• When sewing the seams, reduce your stitch length to 1.5mm–1.6mm.
• Unless otherwise instructed, sew on the outer line of the pattern. Generally, no seam
allowances are included in the patterns, except for areas marked with ES (extra seam
allowance).
• Cut out the shapes after sewing whenever possible, cutting ⅛in–¼in (3mm–6mm) outside
the sewn line. For pieces that need to be cut out before sewing, add a normal seam
allowance, and trim down after sewing.
• To get a good shape, cut snips in the seam allowance where seams curve tightly inwards.
• Stuff well, using a stick to fill small areas.
• Sew up openings with matching thread and small slipstitches.

2 Body: Cut a piece approximately 9½in (24cm) wide x 10in (25.4cm) high. Trace and cut
out two body parts. Fold each body part right sides together so that you can easily sew the
opening at the top together (see Fig A). This will create the shoulders. Cut two pieces for the
head, each approximately 3½in (9cm) wide x 4in (10.2cm) high. Open out one of the body
parts and place it right side down on top of a head piece. Straighten out the top edge of the
body piece and sew it onto the head piece, as in Fig B. Repeat with the other body part and
head piece.
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3 Fold the head pieces up and press the seam allowance apart. Place the two body parts right
sides together and make sure the seams are aligned. Trace the head so that it continues the
traced lines on the body, as shown in Fig C. Sew around as shown.

Fig A Fig B Fig C

4 Cut out the body and then cut notches in the seam allowance caught in the seam on each
side of the neck, as well as where the seam around the body curves inwards. Turn the body
through to the right side and fold in the extra seam allowance around the opening before
pressing the body.

5 Cut a 12in (30.5cm) square for the legs, a 9½in (24cm) square for the arms and a 4in
(10.2cm) square for the hair buns. Fold each piece of fabric double. Trace two arms, two legs
and two hair buns on the fabric pieces and mark the openings. Sew around and cut out all the
pieces.

6 Turn all of the parts through to the right side, fold in the seam allowance by the openings on
the arms and hair buns (leave the seam allowance on the legs open and flat) and then press.
When turning thin arms and legs it is helpful to separate the two fabric layers by using your
thumb and forefinger and then place the blunt end of a flower stick or similar tool against the
end of the piece (see Fig D). Use the stick to push the fabric through and up out of the turning
opening (Fig E). Now pull the rest through the opening and use the stick to push through the
top part.
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Fig D Fig E

7 Stuff the body, arms and legs and sew up the openings on the arms. Sew the arms onto the
body using a large needle and matching embroidery yarn or a doubled sewing thread to sew
from one arm, right through the body, through the second arm and then back again. Repeat
this, two or three times, to secure the arms tightly to the body (Fig F). This will enable them
to move easily.

8 Place the extra seam allowance of the legs inside the body opening and pin. Now sew the
opening shut while at the same time attaching the legs, as shown in Fig F. Pin the opening on
the hair buns against each side of the head, adjusting their position until you are happy with
them. Now hand sew them into place.

Fig F
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9 Hair: Place pins along the seam in the middle of the head, from the forehead and backwards
towards the neck. Place one pin behind the hair buns on each side. Start winding the yarn
back and forth between the hair buns, dividing it between the pins on the top of the head and
winding it around the hair buns a few times, as shown in Fig G. When covering the back of
the head, continue winding back and forth between the pins behind the buns. The aim is to
cover the scalp with just the necessary amount of yarn. When it is covered, secure the hair in
place by hand sewing a seam along the middle of the head (Fig H). Sew stitches back and
forth through the head to secure the hair around the pin on each side behind the buns. Remove
the pins. Thread some hair yarn on a large needle and sew a few stitches to cover the tip of the
bun, then wind the yarn around the rest of the bun until it is covered, as shown in Fig I.
Repeat with the other bun.

Fig G Fig H Fig I

10 Face: Stamp eyes onto the face using a metal pin with a small head, dipped in black hobby
paint. When the eyes are dry, create rosy cheeks using lipstick or rouge and a dry brush.
Patterns
Add a seam allowance to all pattern pieces.
The edges of the patterns mark the seams.
Dotted lines indicate openings and folded
edges. ES stands for Extra Seam allowance
and appears by openings where it is impor-
tant to continue the seam to the very end of
the seam allowance. This ES is included in
the pattern, and where it appears there is no
need to add the normal allowance too.
Please check this ruler to ensure that you are printing in 100%. Pages are made in A4.

0 inches 1 2 3 4 5 6

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