FORMULATIONS OF COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE:

Discover our complete recipes offering beginners the opportunity to develop new applications, following step-by-step
instructions to learn the best way to design cosmetic formulations.

Eye Make-up Remover

Formulation
Facial Cream Recipe
Foundation Make-up
Formulation
Lipsticks Recipe
Mascara Formulation
Nail Polish Recipe
Shampoo Formulation
Shaving Cream Formulation
Sun Protection Cream
Formulation
Toothpastes Recipe

EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER Difficulty

FORMULATION ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
Eye make-up remover formulation requires specific precautions. Indeed eyes and eye contours are
particularly sensitive to irritations. There are tipically two types of eye make-up removers:
 Cleansing milks based on fluid oil/water emulsions
 Cleansing waters which are formulated in the form of an aqueous solution into which ultra-
mild surfactants are dispersed.

Required qualities:

 Perfect tolerance, non-irritant for the cornea

 Sufficient cleansing power to remove eye makeup without insisting too much
 Pleasant or neutral odor
 Non-greasy
 Non-tacky

 Typical
Ingredients
     Usual Method
(cleansing
water)
Must Use Disperse all hydrophilic ingredients in water under slow stirring;some surfactants should be dispersed in hot
water (40°C°). Oil-soluble ingredients like perfume and some kinds of preservatives should be added in the
 
aqueous solution by pre-mixing them with a small amount of solubilizers/ surfactants, in order to obtain
Mild surfactants/
1-5 % homogeneity and clarity. Adjust the pH of the solution.
cleansers
Deionized Water Q.S.*  

  Tips
Usual What are the two main requirements to be respected in order to prevent the irritations?
 
Humectants 3-30%  pH of product must be equal to pH of tears. pH of tears is slightly alkaline:7.4 (7.0-7.8). So,
Emollients 1-5 % product should contain agents for establishing the same pH as tears
PH Buffers Q.S. proper pH
 Isotonicity : Products should contain tonicity agents to establish isotonicity with tears (saline
Preservatives 0-0,02 %
concentration of product should be equal to saline concentration of tears)

Optional
 
Surfactants/
0-1 %
solubilizers
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents Q.S.
Colouring agents Q.S.
Floral water 1-5 %

Sample Recipe: Mild eye  

makeup remover
Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : Disperse the polyquaternium in the water. Heat the mixture to
Composition Function
(w/w) 45°C to disperse PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and PEG-120 methyl
glucose sesquistearate. Remove from heat and add the remaining
ingredients. Adjust the pH to 7,4 with the TEA.
Phase A
Deionized water   Q.S.
Active/
Polyquaternium-10
conditioning agent
0.02 Properties
Mild surfactant/
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 1.70
emollient
PEG-120 methyl glucose sesquistearate Mild surfactant 1.50 Clear solution, mildness, pH = 7,4
Mild surfactant/
PPG-10 methyl glucose ether 1.30
emollient
Sodium cocoamphopropionate Mild surfactant 3.50
Phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, glycerin,
Preservative/ blend 0.7
methylparaben, benzoic acid
Triethanolamine pH buffer Q.S.

To go further

Floral waters Rose water, chamomile and corn flower extracts can bring soothing and reduce puffiness that may occur during
content cleansing.

Preservatives Irritations are often due to preservatives. Monodose packaging allows a dramatic reduction of the required
content percentage of preservative in the product.

* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATIONS BASICS: FACIAL

Difficulty ****
CREAM
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the skin
or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-wrinkle
activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a sensitive skin..
Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions or Water in Oil emulsions. The typical skin care
emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology has advanced to the point where w/o stable
emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.

Required qualities :

 Neutral or pleasant odor and color

 Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application
 Easy penetration
 Non-oily/ non-greasy after application
 Non comedogenic
 Well tolerance/ non-allergenic
 Bring hydration

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C (depending on the recommandations
of the producer) under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. This first phase is combined with
 
the oily phase (Lipophilic components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) that has also been
Emulsifiers 2-6%
melted and heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is formed. Then mix
Emollients 10-35 %
gently while emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are
Thickener 0.1-1%
added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact.
Deionized Water Q.S.
 
Usual   Tips
 
Preservatives 0.2-1 % How to vary the consistency of your cream?
Humectants 1-8 % - Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the final viscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water
Consistency factors1-6% emulsion the greater the oily phase the higher the viscosity. Inversely for Water in Oil or Water in Silicone
Antioxidants 0.01-0.05% emulsion : the greater the aqueous phase the higher the viscosity.
UV filters 0.01-0.5%
- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agents like waxes). However some stabilizers can
prevent settling without increasing the viscosity.
Optional
 
Chelating Agents 0-0.02 %
Fragrance 0.1-1 %
Active agents 0.1-2%
Colouring agents Q.S.
Aesthetic
0.1-5%
enhancers

Sample Recipe : "Vanishing cream"

Ingredients Method
% Phase A  and phase B have to be mixed and heated separately to 80°C. Add slowly B into A under intensive
Composition Function
(w/w) stirring until the emulsion is formed. Then add more quickly the rest of the phase and keep stirring during a few
minutes. Continue stirring gently until the temperature is at 40°C. Then Add phase C. Keep stirring the mixture
slowly while it is being cooled.
Phase A
Emulsifier/
Glyceryl
consistency 4.00
stearate
agent Properties:
Emulsifier/
Stearic acid consistency 16.0
agent Cream with a pearlescent aspect
Ceteareth-12 Emulsifier 3.00
Octyldodecanol Emollient 3.00
Paraffinum
Emollient 3.00
liquidum
Phase B
Triethanolamine pH buffer 0.50
Deionized Water   69.3
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol,
methyl-, ethyl-,
propyl-, butyl-, Preservative0.7
isopropyl
paraben
Fragrance   0.5
 

To go further..
Ingredients choice criteria:

Dry skin - Slow down the TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) by using occlusive emollients in the oily phase (squalane, beeswax,
triglycerides, essential fatty acids, silicones..)
formulation - Reenforce or reconstitute the NMF (Natural moisturizing factor) with adequate additives (sodium lactate, sodium PCA)
- Bring humectancy with hygroscopic components (urea, allantoin, polyols, hyaluronic acid..)

Enhance As indicated above, aesthetic enhancers may be added: eg- pearlescent pigments, texturing agents, soft-feeling agents
aesthetic like silicone elastomers. The aim is to obtain a product which is sense-awakening !

FOUNDATION MAKEUP Difficulty

FORMULATION ****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
A little bit of history...

Foundations are coloring preparations used to enhance the aspect of the skin by giving uniformity to
the complexion and concealing blemishes. The origin of face makeup appears with the Egyptians 4000
BC: Women applied on their faces a paste composed of beeswax or sheet's fat added with minerals .
Foundation formulation is quite complex. Typically, it is an emulsion to which various pigments and
powders have been added. The choice is also limited to a few types of permitted pigments and dyes.

Required qualities:
  Easy to spread
 Homogeneous
 Well adhesion to the skin
 Covering power
 Permeable film to allow gas exchanges
 Non-irritant, non-allergenic
 Non-shiny, non-greasy
 Non comedogenic
 Pleasant or neutral odor
 Pleasant texture, creaminess

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) into warm water under intensive stirring until a homogeneous gel is
formed. Add other hydrophilic components. Heat this phase to 80°C. Pulverize pigments and powders
 
and add them to the water phase under intensive stirring. Emulsifiers, emollients & lipophilic consistency
Emulsifiers 1-6 %
factors, constituting the oily phase, are mixed and heated to 80°C. This third phase is added to the
Emollients 8-20 %
mixture (water phase + pigments) in order to form the emulsion. Sensitive components like actives,
Thickener (s) 0,1-2 %
special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their
Humectants 4-7%
properties intact.
Pigments
(opacifiying & 2-10 %
coloring)
 
Powders 4-10 %
Deionized Water Q.S.  

  Tips
Usual Powders of dry vegetable extracts can be used in such formulations to bring specific activity.
 
Preservatives 0,1-1 %
Antioxidants 0,01-0,05 %
Consistency
0,5-20 %
agents
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 %

Optional
 
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents 0,1-1%

Sample Recipe : Sand rose  

Liquid Makeup
Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : Heat components to 80°C until completely uniform.
Composition Function
(w/w)

Phase B : Disperse gums into water under intensive stirring until
Phase A complete dispersion, then add propylene glycol and TEA. Heat phase
Mineral oil Emollient 6,0 B to the same temperature as phase A while mixing gently.
Stearic acid Emulsifier 2,2 Pulverize phase C and add to phase B under moderate stirring until it
Glyceryl stearate Emulsifier 1,8 is homogeneous. Then add phase A to (B+C) under intensive stirring.
Lanolin alcohol Emollient 3.0 Maintain gentle agitation while it is being cooled until 40-30°C. Add
Cetearyl isononanoate Emollient 1,0 preservative. Mix gently until it is completely cooled.
Isostearic acid Emulsifier 0,5
Phase B
Cellulose gum
Xanthan gum
Thickener
Thickener
0.2
0.2 Properties
Propylene glycol Humectant 4,5
PH buffer,
Triethanolamine 0.9
neutralizer Texture: creamy oil/ water emulsion, color: beige
Deionized water   Q.S.*
Phase C
Iron oxides, brown (CI 77492, 77491,
Abrasive 0.2
77499)
Opacifying
Titanium dioxide 2.0
pigment
Powder/
Talc 7.8
texturing agent
Phase D
Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben,
ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, Preservative 0.7
isobutylparaben

Particles size is important as well as rheologic properties of the product. In fact, a proper viscosity
guarantees a good spreadibility on the skin. Pigments particles size is varied in order to obtain more matt
Key-ingredients effect. However particles size in a foundation should be chosen respecting two rules: - Not too small, it
would accentuate little wrinkles - not too large, it would be too occlusive.
   

Treatment Some additives can provide additional qualities to foundations:

 Protection against pollution, UV..
foundations  Non-staining on clothes, long-lasting
 Activity: hydrating..
 

Pigments are Dyes which are soluble in the liquid phase should not stain permanently on the skin. Thanks to their non-
non-soluble solubility neither in water nor in oil, insoluble pigments are used in decorative cosmetics. Moreover they
are considered to be non-irritant to mucous membranes. TiO2 is commonly used as an opacifier.
components
* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATION BASICS:
Difficulty ****
LIPSTICKS
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
A little bit of history...

We're tracking the origin of lip coloration within the high antiquity. Egyptian women used to apply on
their lips some dyes based on red blood stone or henna. However the origin of the lipstick such as we
know it today begins within the end of the XIXth century. At this time, actresses used to use mixtures of
beeswax, butter, vine grape extracts or other kinds of natural dyes to be applied on their lips. Synthetic
dyes discovery at the beginning of the XXth century allowed for a considerable pallet of coloring nuances
as well as the emancipation of the lipstick. 

Required qualities :

 Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature

 Must be applied easily on lips
 Must leave a mark as soon as lightly applied
 Musn't break during the application
 Uniformity of the film
 Creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness
 Sufficient adhesion is required
 Musn't leave marks when wiped
 Easy to remove
 Pleasant taste and odour
 Non-irritant, non-allergenic

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments may often have to be premixed separately in
liquid emollients mixture. Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be used, otherwise pigment
  dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible. The mixture can be added to the first hot phase or once the mix
Consistency has cooled. Then pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10°C above its melting point) into the
20-55%
factors/ Waxes appropriate moulds. Moulds must be placed into the refrigerator.
Emollients (liquid) 25-70%
Pigments (color) 0.5-10%

Usual    Tips
 
Thickeners/ How to obtain the wanted mattifying/ shining effect in your lipstick?
0-1%
stabilizers
Preservatives 0-1 % Mixing the correct amount of pigments every time and getting the desired color and effect is an art of its own.
Antioxidants 0.05-1% Pigments particles size and nature is varied in order to obtain more shine or more matt effect. The more the
Pigments (special distribution is large, the more the mattifying effect is high. Mattifying effect is associated with adhesion (long-
5-25% lasting). Cosmeticians would like to obtain lipsticks which join the brilliance with the long-lasting effect to satisfy
effects)
consumers. These two properties are contradictory.

Optional
 
Sunscreens/ UV
0-2%
filters
Fragrances/
0-1%
Flavoring agents
Active agents 0-1%

Sample Recipe : Purple fresh  

kiss
Ingredients Method
Composition Function % (w/w) Phase A  : Components are mixed and heated into a glass beaker to
70°C. Add Phase Bcomponents while stirring gently after have removed
Phase A from heat until the mix is homogeneous. Then pour the liquid
Phase A mixture into chosen molds.
Beeswax Consistency factor/ Wax 6
Carnauba Wax Consistency factor/ Wax 3
Candelilla Wax Consistency factor/ Wax 7
Ozokerite Consistency factor/ Wax 4  
Polyisobutene Emollient (liquid) 30
Castor oil Emollient (liquid) Q.S.
Mica Pigments 3
Red 7 Lake Pigments 2.25
Phase B
Tocopherol acetate Antioxidant 0.05
BHT Antioxidant 0.03
Peppermint Flavoring agent 0.3

To go further
 

Consistency Lipsticks are made of a mixture of waxes ("white paste or body"), oils and pigments. Waxes are chosen considering
their melting point (which varies from 50°C to 90°C) and their specific properties. They bring hardness and shining.
agents/ waxes They enhance stability and consistency, and provide richness to formulations. Most animal origin waxes were used in the
past. They're now widely replaced by synthetic or vegetal origin waxes (carnauba, candelilla..).

   

Pigments are Thanks to their non-solubility neither in water nor in oil pigments are permitted in decorative cosmetics. Moreover they
non-soluble are considered to be non-irritant to mucous membranes. TiO2 is commonly used as an opacifier. Pigments derived from
mica are used and often coated with titanium dioxide to enhance the range of colors available
components
   

What kind of
lipstick was The ancient Egyptians used for lip rouge a reddish purple mercuric plant dye. They didn't know it was potentially
called the kiss of poisonous . Talk about the kiss of death!

death?
   

MASCARA FORMULATION Difficulty ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
Mascaras are used to enhance the eyelashes. They were once prepared with oil and lamp-black. There
are two main types of mascara formulation:
 water-based mascaras, known as "cream mascaras," which are in the form of an oil/water
emulsion
 anhydrous mascaras, known as "waterproof mascaras", which are formulated in the form of a
dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents.

Required qualities

 Proper creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness

 Easy application
 Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature
 Uniformity
 Filmogenic
 Covering power
 No build-up
 Sufficient adhesion is required
 Fast drying after application but musn't dry in the container
 Water-resistant
 Easy to remove
 Non allergenic, non-irritant
  Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments have to be added and dispersed in this
oily mixture. Hydrophilic thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in hot water. Some of
  them require neutralization. This second phase is heated and combined with the oily phase to form the
Deionized Water Q.S.* emulsion.
Emulsifiers 3-10 %
Consistency factors/
7-20 %
Waxes  
Emollients (liquid) 25-70%
Pigments (color) 0.5-10%
 
   
Usual
 
Thickeners/ stabilizers 0-1%
   Tips
Preservatives 0-1 % How to obtain light mascaras with water-resistant effect?
Adhesion promoters/ Some water-based mascaras may also have a waterproof effect. A large amount of latex should be added
2-8%
Film formers(resins) to the oil/water emulsion. It should be noted however that considering the low solids content, this type of
mascaras is characterized by a weaker makeup power than anhydrous mascaras.

Optional
 
Water-resistant agents 0-1%
Pigments (special
0-1%
effects)
Fragrances 0-1%
Active agents 0-1%

Sample Recipe : Natural look  

mascara
Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : Add slowly hydroxyethylcellulose in warm water (40°C). Mix
Composition Function
(w/w) until uniformly dispersed. Add the triethanolamine, mix until the gel is
homogeneous, and add butylene glycol. Mixture has to be heated until
75°C in order to be combined with Part C. Mix all the ingredients ofPart
Phase A C and melt to 75-80°C. Then add the pigments (Part B) to C and mix until
Water   Q.S. the pigments are completely wetted and uniform. Combine with part A to
Hydroethylcellulose Thickener 0.50 form the emulsion. Continue mixing (slowly) and begin cooling. Add
PH Buffer/ dimethicone, polymer and preservative. Continue cooling to room
Triethanolamine 2.00
Neutralizer temperature.
Butylene glycol Humectant 8.00
Phase B
Iron oxides (CI 77499) Pigment 10.0
Phase C  
Glyceryl stearate Emulsifier 2.50
Consistency
Carnauba Wax 4.00
factor
Consistency
Beeswax 5.00
factor
Consistency
Candelilla Wax 1.00
factor
Stearic acid Emulsifier 5.00
Phase D
Acrylates copolymer Film former 5.00
Waterproofing
Dimethicone 0.5
agent
Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben,
Preservative 0.7
propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben

To go further
 

Volumizing
and Silk fibers may be added to these types of mascaras. They provide bodyfying volume and lengthen eyelashes.
lengthening
mascaras
   

Key criteria Rheology control helps optimize the spotted amount during application, thus helping control the thickness of eyelashes.

   
* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATION BASICS: NAIL

Difficulty ****
POLISH
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
 3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Nail polishes are preparations whose main function is to color and enhance aesthetics of both hands and
feet, giving them a more attractive aspect. Nail polish basically consists of pigments suspended in a
volatile solvent to which film formers have been added.

Required qualities :

 Must have an important adhesive power

 Shining film
 Easy application, easy spreadibility
 Homogeneity
 Fast drying
 High covering power
 Plasticity and flexibility to prevent cracks
 Hardness

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Thixotropic agents are dispersed in part of the solvents and mixture is added with the diluents and the others
components. Pre-wet the pigments by making a 1:1 or 1:2 premix in carrier (oils or solvents) under slow stirring
  conditions. Controlled speed stirrers with a paddle or propeller type agitator blades are recommended to disperse
Film former pigments. 
10-20%
(primary)
Film former/ resin
2-10%
(secondary)  
Pigments 1-5%
Plasticizers 3-10%
Solvents 30-50%  
Diluents 5-15%
Thixotropic agents 0-1%    Special effects
How to obtain special effects?
Usual You can vary effects in nail polish through the addition of both organic colors and pigments. Pigments must be
  maintained within the preparation with suspending agents, such as stearalkonium hectorite. Specialty additives
UV filters 0-0.1% may also be added in order to create special effects: sparkling, shimmering, frosted, metallescent... Nylon or
Preservatives 0.1-1% rayon fibers can be added for nail-strengthening purposes. Aluminum is widely used in nail polishes. It can add
Antioxidants 0-0.1% some sparkle and flop effects when using the larger particle sizes.
Pigments (special
1-5%
effects)

Optional
 
Fragrance 0-1%
Active agents 0-1%

Sample Recipe  

Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : 1. Disperse the stearalkonium bentonite in butyl acetate under
Composition Function
(w/w) intensive stirring and add isopropyl alcohol. Add the others solvents,
plasticizers and film formers to the mixture. 
Add the Phase B by slow stirring and mix slowly until the mixture is
Phase A homogeneous.
Stearylalkonium Bentonite Thixotropic agent 0.90
n-Butyl Acetate Solvent 40.0
Isopropyl Alcohol Diluent 8.4  
Ethyl Acetate Solvent 18.0
Nitrocellulose Film former (primary) 15.0
Polyester Resin Film former (secondary) 9.0
Dibutyl Phthalate Plasticizer 5.0
Camphor Plasticizer 1.7
Phase B
Aluminium powder (and) Ethyl
Pigments (metallescent) 2
Acetate

 
To go further

Key Nitrocellulose is the most commonly used primary film-forming agent in nail polishes. It produces a shiny, tough, nontoxic
film that adheres well to the nail plate. The oxygen permeable film allows gas exchange between the atmosphere and the
ingredients and nail. Resins are added to increase the flexibility of the film at a ratio of about two parts nitrocellulose to one part resin by
weight. The most popular resin used to enhance the nitrocellulose film is toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde. However, it
allergy might be the source of allergic contact dermatitis. Toluene is notably considered as a strong sensitizing agent, a toxic  
inhalant, and has a high risk of causing severe contact dermatitis and eye irritation. Hypoallergenic nail varnishes use
polyester resin or cellulose acetate butyrate.

  Plasticizers increase flexibility after solvents have volatilized, reducing cracking in the polish. Dibutyl phthalate has been
used as a plasticizer for years.

SHAMPOO FORMULATION Difficulty ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
A shampoo is a colloidal dispersion of various surfactants in water. Base components of a classical
shampoo are cleansing agents, thickeners and water. Most of the time additives and adjuvants are added
to the formula in order to help cleansing, enhance aesthetics properties, foaming or make hair shine.
Indeed, beauty brought by the product is as important as cleanliness: As long as it is an hygiene product,
a shampoo has to maintain a pleasant feel of the hair. Moreover, in the mind of many consumers
cleanliness is often associated with foam quantity...So...Shampoos have to foam!

Required qualities:

 Cleansing properties without eliminating all surface lipids

 Foaming properties
 Make hair shine and soft
 Make hair easy to comb
 Antistatic
 Pleasant odor
 Non-irritant, non-stinging

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. Then add
the surfactants and the other ingredients and mix gently until the product becomes homogeneous. Oil-soluble
  ingredients (some preservatives, perfume..) should be added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of
Surfactants 15-30% surfactants.
Foam Stabilizers 1-4 %
Thickener 0-5%
Deionized Water Q.S.  

Usual  
 
Preservatives 0,1-1 %
   Tips
Humectants 1-5 %
How to significantly reduce the overall irritation of your mixture?
PH Buffers Q.S. neutral pH
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 % By increasing the betaïne surfactants %. When these ones are combined with fatty alcohol sulfates, they form
large anionic-cationic complex which lowers irritation.
Part of anionic surfactants can also be replaced by non-ionic surfactants like alkylpolyglucosides.
Optional  
 
Pearlescing/
0,2-2%
opacifying agents
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents 0-2%
Colouring agents Q.S.
Q.S. desired
Conditioning agents
effect
UV Filter 0.01-0.1%

Sample Recipe: Clear shampoo - TOP -

Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : Heat Water (40°C), disperse thickener under intensive stirring.
Composition Function
(w/w) Reduce mixing speed after polymer is dispersed. Then add propylene glycol
and NaOH solution. Mix until homogeneity. Add other ingredients of Part A
in order.
Phase A
Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Thickener 1.20
Crosspolymer
Propylene glycol Humectant 6.00 Mix Phase B ingredients in hot water (30-40°C) and add into Phase A. Add
NaOH (18%) Neutralizer/PH Buffer 0.40 other ingredients in order. Mix until it is uniform.
Sodium laureth sulfate (28% active
Surfactant (primary) 30.00
matter)
Propylene glycol, Diazolidinyl urea,
Methylparaben, Propylparaben
Preservative 1.00 Properties
Deionized Water Diluent Q.S.
Phase B
Benzophenone-4 UV Filter 0.02 Clear, viscous gel, pH 6.5, viscosity = 5500-6500 cP
Deionized Water Diluent 5.00
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating agent 0.10
Phase C
NaOH (18%) Neutralizer/PH Buffer 2.40
Foam booster (secondary
Cocamidopropyl Betaïne 4.00
surfactant)
FD & C Blue No. 1 (C.I. 42090) Dye 0.002

To go further
Specific substances may be incorporated in order to provide a restoring and protecting effect on hair like natural and modified lipids, amino acids and silicones.
They may also have reconstituting effect on the integrity and health of the hair and scalp - such as preventing dandruff and excessive sebaceous secretion.

Baby Shampoos They should be based on amphoteric surfactants (imidazolinic derivatives or betaïnes, 75 to 100% of total surfactants)

   

Greasy Hair Its first mission is to eliminate excessive sebum without eliminating all surface lipids. Following actives may be used:
Shampoo
  - sulfur in order to regulate sebum secretion

  - clays to absorb fats

   

Dry Hair Shampoo A dry scalp leads to a dry aspect of the hair because of lack of sebum. Cleansing base is composed with a ternary mixture
of surfactants (anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic). Formulation is completed by superfatting agents: castor oil, lecithins..

   

Antidandruff Formulae contain antimicrobial and keratolytic actives (zinc pyrithione,piroctone olamine)
Shampoos
   

2-in-1 Shampoos Some conditioning agents (polyquaterniums, silicones..) are added in order to help combability

Difficulty
SHAVING CREAM FORMULATION
****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
Shaving cream is a product applied to the skin to facilitate removal of hair. Traditional shaving creams
have been largely replaced by aerosol products with shaving foams and gels. However shaving creams
have been used for years and their soap-glycerin-water formulations keep on being a reference for all
shaving products: Based on soaps added with glycerin and water. Stearic acid is an ingredient widely
used in shaving creams; its soap-like character makes the beard hydrated and softened, falicitating its
removal.

Required qualities :

 Well lubricant properties, skin protection against razor

 Hydrating properties, softner
 Well-tolerated, non-irritant
 Pleasant odor
 Easy application, easy to spread
 Creaminess

   Typical Ingredients    Usual Method

Must Use Dissolve neutralizing agents in water and heat the water to 80 °C. Heat surfactants and
consistency agents to 80°C. Mix slowly with water phase.
 
Surfactants 5-20 %
Consistency agents 3-8 %
Neutralizing agents Q.S.*
Humectants 2-10 % Keep under slow stirring during saponification ( during 60 minutes).
Deionized Water Q.S.

Remove from heat. Actives and sensitive ingredients should be added after the mixture have
Usual been cooled (40°C) in order to keep their properties intact.
 
Preservatives 0,2-1 %  
Emollients 2-5%
Films formers 0-2 %  

  Tips
Optional How to improve the feeling and tolerance of your product?
 
- The residual film should be to the proper pH value. It should correspond to the skin's pH level
Perfume 0,1-1 %
Active agents 0,1-1 % - Emollients like mineral oil and lanolin derivatives can be added, making shaving more
comfortable, by rending skin softer and more supple

Sample Recipe : Snow shaving  

cream
Ingredients Method
% Phase A  : Oily components are heated to 80-85°C. Mix until
Composition Function
(w/w) homogeneity. Remove from heat. Mix Phase B ingredients, heat to
approximately 60°C and add it under stirring to the first phase. Mixing
should continue during 60 minutes while maintaining the temperature at
Phase A 60°C. Then remove from heat. Add preservatives and perfume when the
Stearic acid Surfactant/ soap 8.2 mixture has cooled to 40-30°C.
Surfactant/
Polysorbate-60 6.0
emulsifier
Emollient/
Lanolin
emulsifier
5.0 Properties
Phase B
Triethanolamine Neutralizing agent3.7
Deionized water   Q.S. White pearlescent cream
Glycerin Humectant 2.0
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol, butyl-,
Preservative 0,7
isobutyl-,ethyl-,methyl-, propylparaben
Perfume   0,2

SUN PROTECTION CREAM

Difficulty ****
FORMULATION
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further 

Before starting... 
Sun protection formulation is a main issue for formulators nowadays. Considering the needs of the
market, formulations are more difficult to make than for standard care products: Formulations have to
protect against two classes of UV rays during the exposure, also prevent long-term consequences of
UV exposure, and provide a pleasant feeling during and after the application. That is a challenge
considering:1) the difficulty to stabilize components which bring the sun-protection: UV filters and
sunscreens 2) the interactions between the ingredients.
Emulsions oil/water or water/oil are usually used.

Required qualities:

 Protection against sunburns (immediate effects of sun exposure)

 Protection against long-term damages on cells
 However May allow few tan
 Water-resistant
 Pleasant feeling during and after application
 Easy spreadibility
 Easy-to-use
 Stable formulation
 Non-irritant, non-allergenic

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Sunscreens and UV filters have to be dispersed in suitable solvents (Pre-dispersions of mineral sunscreens are
  often available to facilitate the procedure). Then, emollients, emulsifiers, lipophilic components (consistency
Emulsifiers 3-10% factors) are combined and melted at 75-80°C. Stabilizers (thickeners) are essential to prevent settling of
Emollients pigments, they're dispersed separately under stirring in water phase until homogeneous gel is formed and
10-20 %
(lipophilic) heated to 80°C. The two mixtures are combined progressively to form the emulsion. Mix under intensive stirring
Sunscreens (TiO2, until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special
1-5%
ZnO, Fe oxides) additives, preservatives should be added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) in order to keep their
UV filters 1-10% properties intact.
Solvents (for
5-10%
filters)
Thickener (s) 0.5-2%  
Deionized Water Q.S.
 

Usual
  Tips
  How to reduce the irritation caused by the formulation?
Antioxidants 0.1-0.5% In most cases allergies and irritations are due to UV-filters
Preservatives 0.1-1 %
Humectants 1-5 % - The addition of mineral sunscreens replacing part of UV filters allows reduction of their quantity and
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 % consequently the allergenic potential. Nowadays producers can provide sunscreens that offer superior
transparency with a wide variety of particle diameters and surface treatments
- Combining more filters (3-4) that provide different UV-absorptions may reduce the% of each of them so to
Optional prevent the irritations
  How to enhance the efficiency of the protection?
Consistency factors1-3% Combine both oil-soluble and water-soluble filters in the formulation
Fragrance 0,1-1 %
Active agents 0.1-1%
Colouring agents Q.S.

Sample Recipe : Sun cream

based on W/O emulsion/ SPF  

10
Ingredients Method
% Mix and heat separatly Phase A and Phase B to 75-80°C. Just before
Composition Function
(w/w) emulsification add Phase Cinto A. Add slowly Phase B to Phase A under
intensive stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.

Phase A
Emulsifier (Water  
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 1.00
in Oil)
Emollient/
Isohexadecane 6.00
solvent  
C-12-15 Alkyl benzoate, titanium dioxide,
Sunscreens (Pre-
polyhydroxystearic acid, aluminium stearate, 10.0
dispersion)
alumina
Phase B Properties
Stabilizer/
Magnesium sulfate 1.0 Light cream
Thickener
Humectant/ SPF (in vitro) = 10
Propylene glycol 4.5
solvent
Deionized water   74,75
Phase C
Tocopherol acetate Antioxidant 0.05
Solvent/
Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00
emollient
Diazolidinyl urea, methyl-, propylparaben,
Preservative 0.70
propylene glycol

To go further
 

= Sun protection factor. This number is determined experimentally indoors by exposing human subjects. Its rating is calculated
by comparing the amount of time needed to produce a sunburn on protected skin to the amount of time needed to cause a sunburn
SPF on unprotected skin. Difference between the 2 amounts allow to determinate SPF rating. SPF numbers can range from as low as 2
to as high as 60.

SPF and The SPF may be significantly enhanced by controlling the rheology of the product, notably the film:

rheology - If the film is too thin, it doensn't provide sufficient coverage

- If it's too thick, spreadibility will be affected

 
Viscosity has to be well-balanced between easy spreadibility and suitable coverage

FORMULATION BASICS:
Difficulty ****
TOOTHPASTES
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting... 
Toothpastes are mild cosmetic detergents for cleaning teeth. Dental creams are complex dispersions.
Indeed, a toothpaste contains a solid phase which is dispersed in a liquid phase. Formulations have to be
 thick enough thanks to inorganic binders (aluminium silicates, bentonites) and organic thickeners.
Thickeners and binders keep the solid phase properly suspended in the liquid phase to prevent separation
of the liquid phase out of the toothpaste. Initially intended to freshen the breath and remove deposits
from teeth, evolution of toothpaste has also made it a vehicle for the protection of teeth from cavities and
gum diseases.

Required qualities :

 Consistance have to be creamy

 Thixotropic, enabling it to stand up on the toothbrush after it is extruded
 Easily washable
 Abrasive enough
 Pleasant taste
 Slightly foaming properties
 Homogeneous
 Well-tolerated by gingiva and buccal mucous

 Typical
     Usual Method
Ingredients
Abrasives are mixed with humectants until a paste is formed. This is an essential step: in fact, formulation is
relatively complex and poorly made pastes will separate or liquefy. Organic thickeners are dispersed into water.
Intensity and heating depend on thickeners. Actives and additives are added to part of the water and the mixture
Must Use is added slowly to the paste (in order to prevent the formation of air-bubbles during the mixing stage).
  Surfactants are added at last stage. Before been added, they may be dipersed in part of heated water if
Abrasives 15-35% necessary.
Surfactants 0.5-2%
Thickeners/ binders0-12%
Humectants 40-60%  
Deionized Water Q.S.
Usual  
 
 
Preservatives 0.2-1.5%
Antimicrobial
Anticaries
0.2-1.5 %
0.2-1.5%
   Tips
Tartar control What are the 3 main requirements to be respected during the procedure to formulate a clear
0.5-10%
ingredients toothpaste?
- Refractive Index of carrier must be equal to Refractive Index of abrasives blend
Optional - The formulation needs to be processed under vacuum. This largely avoids inclusion of air bubbles. Heating the
  mixture reduces its viscosity, enabling it to be gently mixed under vacuum.
Sweet agents Q.S What is the role of humectants in the formulation?
Flavoring agents 0.8-1.5%
They help keep the moisture in and prevent dryness. They are also used to maintain the plasticity of the paste
Colouring agents Q.S.
 
 

Sample Recipe  

Ingredients Method
Composition Function % (w/w) Phase A : Disperse xanthan gum in sorbitol under intensive stirring.

Phase A Phase B: Dissolve all additives in water, whilst stirring during 10

Xanthan gum Thickener 0.8 minutes. Add B into A and keep stirring during 45 Minutes, until a
Sorbitol Humectant Q.S. homogeneous gel is formed. Then add gradually the
Glycerin Humectant 25.0 mixture C to A+B. Keep stirring the mixture slowly during 30 minutes.
Phase B Add the flavoring agent, then continue stirring during 5 minutes. At last,
Deionized Water   17.0 introduce the surfactant whilst continuing stirring during 5 minutes.
Sodium fluorure Anticaries agent 0.22
Sodium benzoate Preservative 0.3
Sodium pyrophosphate
Sodium saccharinate (sol 1%)
Antitartar agent
Sweetener
1.0
5.00  
Phase C
Silica Abrasive 21
Titanium dioxide Whitening agent 0.5
Phase D    
Peppermint Flavoring agent 0.8
Sodium laureth sulfate Surfactant 4.7

To go further

   
Mineral powders with abrasive properties are usually used in toothpastes to aid mechanical tooth cleaning: Silicas, calcium
carbonate, calcium phosphate, alumina, sodium phosphates…Silicas are more abrasive than other components. The ideal
Abrasives abrasive is one that will not scratch the tooth enamel and yet will exert sufficient scouring action to clean and polish teeth.
In order to regulate abrasiveness, combination of several kinds of abrasives with different particles sizes is used.

   

Anti-stain They should be based on calcium phosphate (gentle abrasive) and sodium bicarbonate.
toothpaste

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