PRACTICAL

BOAT
MECHANICS
PRACTICAL
BOAT
Commonsense Ways to Prevent, Diagnose,
MECHANICS
and Repair Engine and Mechanical Problems

BEN L. EVRIDGE

International Marine / McGraw-Hill

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This book is dedicated to my former students at Kodiak College,
who had a way of asking the right questions.
CONTENTS

Acknowledgments xii
Introduction xiii

PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW 1

CHAPTER 1 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 3

The Boatowner’s Checklist 3
Engine Start-up Procedures 10
Tools and Equipment to Have on Board 11
Other Items to Have on Board 12
Routine Maintenance Procedures 14
Emergency Response Scenarios 14
Repairing and Replacing Damaged Fasteners and Fittings 16
Material Safety Data Sheets 18
Keep Yourself Safe 18

CHAPTER 2 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 21

In-Line Engines 21
V Engines 24
Wet Cylinder Liners 25
The Dry Cylinder Liner 25
Parent Bore Cylinder Blocks 26
Direction of Rotation (DOR) 26
Engine Mechanisms and Systems 26
Combustion Chambers 29
Diesel Engine Operation When Starting 29
Diesel Fuel Injection 30
Lubrication 30
The Exhaust System 30
Horsepower and Torque 30
Power Ratings 32
Engine Ratings 32
Horsepower Ratings in Boats 32
Fuel Quality and Back-Pressure 34
Marine Engine Energy Efficiency 35
Engine Mounting 36
A Useful Engine Procedure 37
CHAPTER 3 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 38
Freshwater Cooling 38
Keel Coolers 39
Keel Cooler Sizing 40
Keel Cooling System Volume and the Resulting Expansion 40
Aftercoolers 41
Heat Exchanger Aftercooler 42
Engine Cooling Components 42
The Expansion Tank 45
Coolant Recovery Bottles 46
Water-Cooled Exhaust 47
Cooling System Conditioner 47
Antifreeze Coolant 47
Pressure Caps 48
Mixing Coolant 49
Troubleshooting Coolant Consumption 49
Severe Engine Overheating 51
CHAPTER 4 BELTS AND HOSES 53
Water Pump and Alternator Belts 53
Extra Belts 53
Side Loads 53
Replacing Poly V-Belts 55
Fuel Hoses and Air in the Fuel 55
Transmission Hoses 56
Oil Cooler Flow Direction When Changing Hoses 56
Wet Exhaust System Hoses 56
Coolant Hoses 58
Preformed Hoses 58
CHAPTER 5 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 60
Water in the Fuel 60
Gasoline Engines 60
Diesel Engines 60
Water or Coolant in the Engine Oil 60
Air-Intake Contamination 65
Air-Intake Plumbing 66
Air Filters 66
Fuel and Contaminants in the Oil 66
Contamination of New Oil 66
Filter Inventory 67
Engine Oil Filters 67
Fuel Filters 69
Marine Transmission Filters 69
Filter Inspection 69
Don’t Waste Oil and Filter Changes 70
Water Filters 72
CHAPTER 6 THE MARINE TRANSMISSION AND POWER-TAKE-OFF 73
Marine Transmissions 73
Gear Ratios 74
Maintenance 75
Glitter 75
Come-Home Screws 75
Locking the Shaft 76
Front and Rear Couplings 76
The Power-Take-Off (PTO) 76
Crankshaft End Float 77
Measuring Your Flywheel Housing 77
Extra Belts 77

CHAPTER 7 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 79

Switches, Alarms, and Shutdown Systems 79
A Few Definitions 81
Alarm Systems 83
Shutdown Systems 83
Other Possible Engine-Protection Switches 88
Testing Switches 90
Battery Maintenance 91
The Mechanical Side of AC Power Generation 91
Leaky Crankshaft Seals 91
Single Bearing Damage 95

CHAPTER 8 MARINE EXHAUST SYSTEMS 98

Engine Fuel Efficiency 98
Wet and Dry Exhaust Systems 99
Wet Exhaust Systems 99
Dry Exhaust Systems 100
Back-Pressure 103
Silencers and Mufflers 104

CHAPTER 9 RUDDERS AND STEERING 105

All about Rudders 105
Rudder Shapes 107
Steering Actuation 111
Hydraulic Rams 113
Autopilots 114

PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING 115

CHAPTER 10 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 117

Diesel Engines 118
Insufficient Power 123
 Gasoline Engines 130
Insufficient Power 132
Troubleshooting Hard Starts—Diesel and Gas Engines 134
Troublespots to Look for When Dismantling an Engine 138
Outboard Engine Troubleshooting 145
Low Power Problems 147
Outboard Maintenance 147
Four-Stroke Gasoline Engines 147
Surveying Marine Engines and Transmissions 149

CHAPTER 11 TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES: DIESEL ENGINES 151

Engine Performance 152
What You See 152
What You Hear 155
Troubleshooting by Touch 161
Oil and Fuel Systems 165
What You See 165
What You Taste 180
Cooling System 180
What You See 180
What You Feel 188
Exhaust System 189
What You See 189
What You Hear 193
Mechanical/Electrical Interface 194
What You See 194
What You Feel 196
What You Hear 197
What You Smell 198

CHAPTER 12 TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES: GASOLINE ENGINES 199

Engine Performance 199
What You See 199
What You Hear 204
What You Smell 211
Oil and Fuel Systems 211
What You See 211
What You Taste 218
Cooling System 219
What You See 219
What You Hear 224
What You Feel 224
Exhaust System 227
What You See 227
What You Hear 228
 Mechanical/Electrical Interface 228
What You See 228
What You Hear 229
What You Feel 230
What You Smell 231

CHAPTER 13 TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES: CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM 232
What You See 233
What You Hear 238
What You Smell 238

CHAPTER 14 TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES: TRANSMISSIONS

AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 241
What You See 241
What You Hear 248
What You Feel 250
What You Taste 251
Outboards and Outdrives 251
What You See 251
What You Smell 254

CHAPTER 15 TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES: STEERING

AND ENGINE CONTROLS 256
What You See 256
What You Hear 257
What You Feel 257

PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC 263

CHAPTER 16 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 265
Pressure Tests 265
Tools for Testing 266
Cylinder Pressure Testing 267
Pressure Testing Heads 268
Pressure Testing Dry, with Air Pressure 270
Testing Hot 270
Testing Large Assemblies 270
Liquid (Dye) Penetrant and Magnetic Particle Testing 271
The Basic Penetrant Process 272
Effects of Mechanical Working 272
Lighting for Fluorescent Dye Penetrant Testing 273
Magnaflux Testing (Magnetic Particle Inspection) 273
Electricity and Magnetism 274
Magnetic Attraction 274
Effects of Flux Direction 274
CHAPTER 17 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 276
Finding the Source of Vibration 277
Alignment by the Numbers 278
Starting at the Rear 284
Order of Alignment Operations 286
Watch The Clock 286
The Coupling’s Pilot 287
Removing Shaft Droop 288
Aligning the Engine 288
The Sea Trial 289

Tables and Conversions 291

Index 297
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

First and most important, my thanks go to Diesel Service, Seattle, Washington; to Bob
Irene, who keeps a happy home. Evridge; to Jim Evridge of Jim’s Equipment
Next, to Jon Eaton and the staff at Repair LLC, Anchorage, Alaska; to Gerald
International Marine/McGraw-Hill who Gardner; to Betty and Richard Geddes;
kept the book on course. to Bob Gil, Master Mechanic; to Jerry
For giving their time, for contributing Grant, Master Mechanic; to Paul Hansen,
photos and technical resources, and for shar- Kodiak logger; to KJ and Jim Herman; to Al
ing their experience, my deepest thanks go to Herrington at www.fuelspillprevention.com;
Bob Allen and the crew of MER Equipment, to Tim Hess of Cascade Engine LLC, Seattle;
Seattle,Washington (see www.merequipment. to Cecile and Todd Hiner; to Pat, Jake, and
com, and see also MERPOWER Technical Theresa Jacobson; to Dave Jensen; to Mark
Support Blog: http://merpower.wordpress.com). Jochems, of Shoreline Marine Diesel Inc.; to
My thanks go also to Dwight Allen, for David Pflaum; to Meryl Snavely; to Lowell
great technical insight; to Pearl, Hank, and Stambaugh, owner of Deflector Marine
Chuck Burkhardt; to Jack Chafee of Jack’s Rudder (www.rudderpower.com); to Jim
Truck and Equipment, Gillette, Wyoming; Tully; to Randy Weber, Master Mechanic;
to Don Clark of Clark Marine, Dutch to Glenn White; to Bob Wilkison of Wilkies
Harbor, Alaska; to Andy Denham, Master Equipment, Anchorage, Alaska; to Kathy
Mechanic; to Ralph Endresen of Endresen and Thom Wischer; and to Stanley Wolrich.

xii
INTRODUCTION

There is a large gap between the information These classroom discussions resulted in
marine manufacturers provide in their man- more topics that could be distilled into one-
uals and the information mariners need to page summaries, but it didn’t stop there.
keep their boats motoring along. This book Topics would arise outside the classroom as
was written to fill the gap. well. For instance, a former student might see
I’ve been troubleshooting and repairing me at the grocery store and say: “Hey, Ben,
Kodiak fishing boats since I worked for a die- I’ve got a good one for you.” Then we might
sel equipment company in Anchorage, Alaska, get a napkin from the deli and draw a dia-
in 1980. Later I settled in Kodiak and opened a gram of the solution to a particular marine
marine engine repair shop, where I also began equipment problem.
receiving calls to repair motoryachts, pleasure The number of summaries grew to 50,
boats, and sailboats. Soon after, I was asked to 200, 400, and then I lost count. Practical
instruct night classes in marine engine repair at Boat Mechanics grew out of this collaborative
Kodiak College. The next twenty years found process.
me in the company of these students, often
mariners, who were wrestling with mainte- HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
nance problems. Most of us are familiar with traditional meth-
I found the best approach to answering ods of troubleshooting. When something
my students’ troubleshooting questions was goes wrong, it becomes painfully obvious.
through an ever-expanding collection of one- There is a horrifying noise, a burning smell,
page handouts. Each handout summarized a mysterious appearance of water in the bilge.
a particular problem with marine equip- At that moment, your primary concern is
ment, then offered solutions. The summaries to know what happened and how to fix it;
focused on the sights, sounds, sensations, however, good troubleshooting is much more
smells, and tastes associated with mechanical than a gut-level reactive response.
problems. The first step toward becoming a sea-
The handouts often spurred conversations soned troubleshooter is to know your boat’s
in the class. My students would recount their systems. Part 1 of this book will enhance
own “war stories”—real-life, hair-raising near your understanding of how your boat works,
misses. Most of their stories had happy end- and thus provide valuable context when you
ings, and the enthused students explained notice something out of the ordinary. It will
how they averted catastrophe and returned also provide maintenance advice to help you
safely to port. avoid problems altogether.
xiii
xiv INTRODUCTION

Eventually, however, something will break is dire, or if you have the luxury of fixing the
down. Part 2 presents a unique approach to problem when you return to port, or if you
troubleshooting and maintenance by put- can ignore it altogether.
ting your five senses to work. We start with Next, you’ll see the heading ”Suggested
Chapter 10, which, for those who like the Actions.” This will list steps you can take
familiar, tackles troubleshooting in the tra- to solve the problem, and it will offer back-
ditional fashion of symptom analysis. The ground information on its nature.
remaining chapters in Part 2 have been crafted Throughout the book you’ll also find help-
to ease your access to the information. For ful sidebars. Some sidebars are called “Work-
example, Chapter 11 is divided by subsystems Around Solutions.” These sidebars offer
related to your diesel engine. Under each sub- stop-gap measures if distance from shore
system you will find a series of symptoms orga- services makes a proper repair impractical or
nized by the five senses. If, for instance, you see impossible. Other sidebars are called “For the
black smoke billowing from the exhaust pipe, Workboat.” These sidebars deal with topics
you’d flip to the section “What You See.” that are specific to big-rig commercial vessels,
Following each symptom is the subhead master mechanics, or anything beyond the
“Urgency.” This will indicate if the situation scope of the average recreational boater.
PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

1
This page intentionally left blank
 CHAPTER 1
THE NATURE OF THE BEAST

Before you begin caring for your boat’s which conveys engine power to the propeller
mechanical health and diagnosing and treat- shaft, is often called the marine gear, the gear-
ing its mechanical symptoms, you should meet box, or simply the gear.
the patient. Chapters 1 through 9 offer a tour Every engine and transmission leaves the
of your boat’s mechanical mysteries and make factory with a serial number plate (Fig. 1-1)
a number of suggestions for routine mainte- to enable the ordering of parts and service
nance. Caring for your boat’s mechanical sys- work. Most often these plates are attached
tems is not only the best way to keep them with four small rivets. This same plate often
functioning reliably, it’s also the best way to provides the engine’s power rating as well.
learn how they function and to prepare your- If no serial number plate is visible,
self for problem solving if and when something begin looking for its original place on the
does go wrong. cylinder block. You’ll know you’ve found
This chapter covers a few of the basics. it when you see a flat rectangular area
Your boat may be brand-new, it may simply roughly two inches by three inches in size,
be new to you, or it may be a mechanical mys- framed either by four chiseled-off rivets or
tery even though you’ve owned it for several by the epoxy glue that once held the plate.
years. Whatever the reason, it’s time to meet When this is the case, you will have to get
your boat and to familiarize yourself with a serial number information from the boat’s
few of the techniques and circumstances you’ll previous owner. If this is not possible, an
encounter again and again as you work with experienced marine mechanic can inspect
mechanical systems aboard. the equipment and determine what was
stamped on the plate.
THE BOATOWNER’S CHECKLIST If the plate is missing and there is no
Before you use your boat, gather the infor- other way, it is worth hiring a mechanic to
mation and make the inspections noted in get you the information that was stamped
this section. You need to be familiar with on it. Don’t be tempted to just let it go. You’ll
all the important systems on board to prop- need the model and serial number whenever
erly maintain them and to know what to do you call a mechanic for help. Your mechanic
if something goes wrong. You’ll be able to must have accurate information to know how
respond more quickly if you do your home- your equipment is configured, especially if he
work ahead of time. or she hasn’t worked on that type of engine or
1. Record the information from all engines transmission before. It’s also vital information
and transmissions. Note: The transmission, when ordering parts.
3
4 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 1-1. The serial number plate.

2. Determine if the boat’s transmission has of the level of protection provided by the
a come-home feature. If it does, know how antifreeze. The coolant should be protected
to engage it. This information will be found from freezing at temperatures as much as
in the transmission service manual. (See also 20°F colder than the expected local minimum
Figure 14-3 and Chapter 6.) temperature.
3. Locate and clean the transmission oil suc- In addition, you should monitor the cool-
tion screen and filter, if so equipped. Most ant conditioner, an additive that minimizes
hydraulic transmission clutch failures start the possibility of galvanic corrosion in the
with a plugged suction screen. A failure is easy engine. You should do this in warm and cold
to spot early by monitoring any accumulation climates. Fuel supply docks and most auto
of metallic debris in the suction screen. parts stores sell coolant test kits.
4. Find and check the oil dipsticks for both A large part of cooling system mainte-
the engine and the transmission. nance involves keeping the pH of the coolant
5. Learn how to check the coolant level slightly alkaline instead of acidic. Acidic cool-
(Fig. 1-2), and in cold climates keep track ant acts as an electrolyte, conducting corrosive
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 5

THE COME-HOME FEATURE Until the hydraulic clutch is applied, the

engine’s crankshaft and the propeller shaft
Imagine that the transmission in your car has turn independently; there is no connection.
failed, leaving you stranded on the side of the When the control lever in the wheelhouse is
road. Now imagine that you could get going pulled into gear, pressurized oil flows into the
again by making a simple adjustment. Unfor- clutch pack and moves the clutch piston, which
tunately, that isn’t possible with a car, but it applies (locks) the clutch. After the clutch is
is for some boats! applied, the two shafts turn together.
Normally, a transmission in good condi- The come-home feature allows the forward
tion connects the power-absorbing propeller clutch pack on transmissions to be mechanically
to the power-producing engine. The connec- clamped together to cause the clutch to lock
tion is made in the transmission clutch pack. up, regardless of whether the clutch is normally
Some transmissions rated for under 100 hp applied mechanically or hydraulically. This man-
use a mechanically activated clutch pack. ual lock-up is done by turning two screws to force
However, transmissions mated with more the clutch discs together, in effect connecting the
powerful engines use a hydraulically acti- engine crankshaft to the propeller even though
vated clutch pack. the forward clutch pack may have failed.

Fig. 1-2. Checking the coolant level indicator on a workboat. Many diesel power and
sailing yachts also have this feature. If yours doesn’t, you’ll need to check
the coolant level in an expansion tank as in Figure 1-6. (Courtesy MER
Equipment, Seattle, Washington)
6 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

currents between the dissimilar metals that to it in addition to the battery cables, then
exist in any engine’s cooling system. Such cur-it is the type of switch that can be oper-
rents, if unchecked, can cause galvanic corro- ated (or turned) with the engine running.
sion that destroys metal and any non-silicone If there are no small wires running to the
rubber coolant hoses. switch, then it must not be turned with the
6. Check the engine’s direct current (DC) engine running. Failure to observe this limi-
electrical system, including the starter tation will result in destroying the alterna-
motor, alternator, batteries, starter switch, tor. The boat may even have both kinds of
the DC breaker or fuse panel, the engine switches.
and transmission gauges, all interconnecting 7. After turning off any battery chargers
wires, and often electronic engine and trans- (called constavolts in some parts of the
mission controls. Note: If your boat has an U.S.) and all electrical loads, check the
AC system as well as DC, the two electrical electrolyte levels in all liquid-electrolyte
panels are probably next to each other. Do not batteries with a good light. (This step does
under any circumstances poke around behind not apply to gel and absorbed glass mat,
an AC panel unless you know with absolute AGM batteries, which are also generically
certainty that no power is flowing to the panel called sealed or no-maintenance batteries.) If
from a shore connection or from an onboard a battery’s electrolyte is below the top of the
generator set. If you have any doubts about battery plates, add distilled water.
your ability or the system, call a marine If the batteries are alike, with the same
electrician. warranty date on each sticker, you have found
Write down the part numbers and a sign of good maintenance. Dissimilar bat-
operating voltages for the engine’s starter teries should be replaced by a matched set
motor and alternator. Also record the starter when it is convenient.
motor’s direction of rotation (abbreviated 8. After turning off all battery chargers and
on the starter motor plate as DOR or some- loads, disconnect, clean, and reconnect all
times DIR), which will obviously be either battery terminals. Inspect all battery cables
clockwise (CW) or counterclockwise (CCW). for cracked insulation, which can result in
Note: Alternators don’t care which way they short circuits or leak power to the electri-
turn. cal ground and discharge the batteries over
time.
WORKBOAT ONLY: Some workboats Also, check the ends of the cables by
require the engine to power two lifting an edge of the insulation and look-
alternators of two different voltages. ing for green (copper) corrosion at the ter-
minals. If corrosion is present, it may be a
Next, find the boat’s battery selector clue that the cable has been chronically wet
switch or switches. There are two different or even submerged. If so, the cable must be
styles—the kind that can be switched with replaced.
the engines running, and the kind that cannot. 9. If your boat has a fire suppression system,
If your switch has two small wires running find its sensors and controls and verify that
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 7

keep water out of the fuel. Likewise, find the

fuel tank vents and be sure they are clear of
Light
obstructions.
Fuel Spill 12. Find the stuffing box (Fig. 1-4) and learn
Guard System
the best way to adjust it. The stuffing box is
Overboard
Vent Line
Fuel Tank where the boat’s propeller shaft exits the hull.
The stuffing box contains the propeller shaft
Fig. 1-3. The Spill Guard stops fuel spills. seal, and the job of the assembly is to keep the
ocean out of the boat while allowing the shaft
to turn. Most stuffing boxes are designed to
admit a slow drip of water, which lubricates
the bottles are full. If you have any doubt the shaft, and the purpose of adjustment is
about the system, have it inspected by a fire to obtain the proper drip rate. If the drip is
and safety professional. If your boat has fire too fast, the bilge fills with water; if it is not
extinguishers rather than a suppression system, fast enough, the shaft overheats. Note: Newer
verify that the extinguishers are fully charged, boats are often equipped with so-called dripless
properly inspected, and properly secured in propeller shaft seals.
their brackets. 13. Locate and check the condition of the
10. Assuming the boat has a diesel engine boat’s freshwater tank or tanks, and also
or engines, locate all valves for both sides look for leaky or damaged hoses or fittings.
of the fuel system (suction and the return). The boat’s freshwater system should include
Note whether the fuel lines to and from the a replaceable activated charcoal filter with an
boat’s fuel tanks are plumbed and valved to exterior label indicating the date it was last
allow the engine or engines to pull fuel from changed.
the tanks on one side of the boat and send
the return fuel to the other side of the boat.
Stuffing Box
This type of system is only found on larger
boats. It is used to adjust trim as fuel in a port
or starboard tank is depleted. Note: If the fuel
system is plumbed this way, then it is also pos-
sible to return fuel to a full tank and thereby Front of
overfill the tank, sending fuel out the tank’s vent Tailshaft

and causing a fuel spill. The Spill Guard by

Herrington Marine Technologies stops fuel
spills by alerting the crew with a flashing light
when the tank is full. Gasket
Shaft Coupling
11. Verify that all external fuel tank fill
openings are properly sealed. If there is an Hull Bottom or
Transom Section
O-ring seal on the fill cap, check it for visible
damage and replace it if needed. This will help Fig. 1-4. Representative stuffing box.
8 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 1-5. A bilge pump, float switch, and alarm.

14. Find the best method for an emergency WORKBOAT ONLY: If your boat
engine shutoff on your boat. See Chapter 2 is very large, it may be worthwhile to
for more on this. obtain a gasoline-powered pump capable
15. Locate the bilge pumps and bilge of rapidly pumping out the bilge. Practice
pump switches (Fig. 1-5), together with starting and priming the pump, and
their fuses or breakers. Bilge pumps have identify the best location for it when it is
two possible settings—manual or auto- in use and the best way to tie it in place
matic. Verify that each pump works prop- during rough weather. If your boat has a
erly on either setting. watertight lazarette housing the steering
16. Locate the engine cooling system’s raw- mechanism, you may also need to figure
water strainer and its valves, if so equipped. out where to place your pump should it
Check the freshwater (antifreeze) side of be necessary to pump water out of this
the system (Fig. 1-6) for evidence of leaks, compartment.
damage to the plumbing, or chafing of these
critical hoses. Replacing depleted sacrificial galvanic corrosion. Check the zincs and
zincs is also important to prevent damaging replace them as needed.
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 9

Coolant 17. Locate all openings that pierce the hull

Level in
Expansion
Tank
Hot
Coolant and check for visible leaks, signs of corro-
Recovery
Cold Bottle
sion (Fig. 1-7), and adequate tightness of the
related fittings and hose clamps.
Engine
WORKBOAT ONLY: On a workboat
Check Sacrificial
Zincs Often! engine that is raw-water cooled (a boat
with a keel cooler instead of a heat
Hot Raw-water exchanger), check the system for leaks,
Overboard
damaged hardware, or damage to the hoses.
Belt Driven
Raw-water
Sea Strainer 18. Outboard engines: Check the engine
Pump
mounting bolts for adequate tightness,
fuel lines for kinks or chafing, and steer-
Fig. 1-6. A freshwater cooling system, showing a simplified heat ing linkage for excess wear. Also, check all
exchanger. There is antifreeze in the freshwater side. controls and electrical connections for any

Fig. 1-7. Watch for corrosion where dissimilar metals meet.

10 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

apparent damage before starting the engine. ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURES

If the engine is a newer four-stroke outboard, The previous section showed you what to
remember that the intake and exhaust valves check on a boat you are just getting to know.
do need to be adjusted periodically. If the At the risk of some redundancy, here are pro-
engine is a two-stroke outboard, confirm cedures to follow each time you start your
whether it has automatic oil injection or not. gasoline or diesel engine(s) to ensure long,
If not, you will have to mix the oil into the trouble-free service:
fuel with each refueling. Read the engine • Check the engine and transmission oil
manual to find the mixing ratio and the type levels.
of oil to add to the gasoline. Stock plenty of • Check the coolant level.
two-stroke oil on the boat. • Remove the cover from a vertical

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE OF OUTBOARDS AND OUTDRIVES

The lower unit oil must be checked and changed regularly to keep water out of the gear lube in the lower unit. Because
the outdrive is vented to eliminate pressure buildup, there is just no other way to keep atmospheric humidity out.

Fig. 1-8. Notice the oil drain plug.

Each outboard has its own system of zinc anodes to control corrosion. Waterborne electrical activity in
a harbor can eat them up quickly. Be sure to monitor the life of the zincs throughout the unit while you are
getting to know it. In time, you will know when to change them according to local conditions.
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 11

dry exhaust stack, if your boat is so temperature reaches 100°F, you can
equipped. put the engine into gear and idle away
• Check the battery charge. from the dock.
• Now crank and start the engine(s), • When the water (coolant) temperature
keeping your eyes on the oil pressure reaches 180°F, you can throttle up the
gauge to verify that the oil pressure is engine to cruising speed.
correct.
• Inspect the engine and transmission TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT TO HAVE
for leaks and excess noise. ON BOARD
• Idle the engine up to 1,000 rpm in neutral. This section is not meant to list a com-
• Make note of the exhaust sound, and plete inventory of the tools you might need
note the exhaust gas color; it must not aboard. The focus is on a few items that
be white. have repeatedly proven their value. Here
• Unless your boat has a dry exhaust, they are:
make sure a healthy flow of cooling 1. Jumper cables
water is coming out with the exhaust. 2. A multimeter (electrical tester), along with
• When the water (coolant) the knowledge to use it (Fig. 1-9)

Fig. 1-9. Become familiar with the multimeter electrical tester.

12 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Note: NAPA auto parts stores sell an excel- 4. Speaking of shims and shim stock, remem-
lent booklet that explains how to test electrical ber that some shims must be made of metal,
items with a multimeter. Strangely enough, it such as steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass,
is titled Burn Baby Burn, and it explains why or copper. In a pinch, aluminum pop cans
so many electrical components are needlessly make a good shim. Galvanized and stainless
replaced due to ignorance of good electrical test- steel stove pipe are also commonly available
ing procedures. and make good shims.
3. LED flashlights 5. Marvel Mystery Oil is an “upper cylinder
4. A shut-down paddle for stopping a run- lube,” which means it is a good lubricant for
away engine (see page 15) valve guides and piston rings. It is available at
5. Left-handed drill bits and Easy-Outs for most fuel docks and auto parts stores and can
removing broken bolts (see below) be added to both the engine lubricating oil
6. A battery-powered Dremel tool (die grinder) and the fuel tank for use with either a gaso-
and battery-powered carbide burrs (rotary line or diesel engine.
files) 6. It’s important to carry both stainless steel
and high-strength bolts and hardware on
OTHER ITEMS TO HAVE oceangoing boats. Engine bolts and fasten-
ON BOARD ers, such as those that mount the alterna-
In addition to the foregoing, the following tor, are high-strength. In the United States,
materials, spares, and fasteners may come in a high-strength bolt such as one of the ones
handy. They are so easy to carry that it would attaching an alternator to an engine is called
be a shame not to have any of them should the a Grade 8 bolt in the hardware and auto parts
need arise. stores that sell them.
1. You should have conversion charts to Spare fasteners come in ready-made kits
switch measurement units for bolt-tightening from marine suppliers, or you can buy a
torque and for any other application. case with many compartments and make
2. Ultra-Gray Silicone Sealer is heat resistant your own selection. Other boaters will
and is especially useful because it sets up very have good suggestions based on their own
firm. Good silicone sealants will replace many experience.
paper and fiber gaskets. 7. Carry spare oil pressure and water tem-
3. Rolls of gasket paper in various grades and perature gauges and senders (Fig. 1-10).
thicknesses are essential for maintenance and Engines have been rebuilt when all that was
repairs. Both 1/32 and 1/16 inch are good thick- wrong was a failed oil pressure sender that
nesses to have on the boat. In a pinch, how- showed no oil pressure. At the first sign of
ever, a temporary gasket can be made from high water temperature or low oil pressure,
cereal box paper. Just cut open a Cheerios be sure to consider a failed sender. On
box and cut the gasket’s shape from the paper, the other hand, you should definitely con-
then put a light coat of silicone sealer on both sider that the gauge is accurate until you
sides and install. In addition, any paper suit- know otherwise. Trust but verify; verify the
able for a gasket will also make a good shim. alarming readings with mechanical gauges
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 13

Fig. 1-10. Carry spare gauge senders.

that provide a reading with no electrical electrical supply kits are available at auto
input. parts stores and offer a good assortment of
If you don’t have mechanical gauges in- terminals and heat-shrink tubing.
stalled on the engine, consider carrying pres- 10. Aquarium-grade silicone sealant is handy
sure and temperature test kits. These kits are to have for emergency repair of the boat’s
available from Snap-on Tools. drinking water plumbing. If it won’t harm
8. Carry high-quality black and red electrical fish, it won’t harm you either!
tape for insulation purposes and for marking 11. Thread-locking compound (Loctite)
positive and negative electrical conductors. keeps bolts and nuts from vibrating loose and
9. You’ll want to carry assorted sizes of is highly useful stuff to have around.
crimp-on electrical terminals and heat-shrink 12. Spare engine-cooling system thermostats
tubing. The latter is plastic tubing that shrinks are important to have when an engine is run-
around electrical wires when heated. Small ning too hot or cold.
14 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE though in this case the water has gotten in due
PROCEDURES to wave action against the stern. A rubber flap
Know how to do the following routine on the outside of the hull will prevent water
procedures: from entering the exhaust system when a fol-
• crimp electrical terminals lowing sea washes against the exhaust outlet.
• adjust your engine’s valves With water-lift mufflers, proper installa-
• adjust the fuel injection timing tion of the exhaust system will keep water out
• replace the water pump of the boat. The engine’s raw cooling water
• change the engine and transmission oil flows through a hose from the heat exchanger
and filters to the exhaust elbow, where it is injected into
• change the engine air filter the exhaust. This hose should be looped at
• drain water from the fuel tanks least 6 inches (preferably 12 inches) above
• switch from one fuel tank to the other the waterline, with a siphon break in the top
while under way of the loop. This will prevent water from
siphoning from the muffler back into the
EMERGENCY RESPONSE exhaust manifold and then to the cylinders.
SCENARIOS
There are a few emergency topics you should
consider at length well ahead of time. If you WORK-AROUND SOLUTION
do your homework regarding these potential
problems, odds are you’ll never have to apply Turn Your Engine into a Bilge Pump
the knowledge. If you don’t prepare for them, By replumbing your engine’s raw-water
you know how Murphy’s Law works. pump, it is possible to take water from the bilge
1. First, unless your diesel engine is self- and pump it overboard. Simply detach the raw-
bleeding, learn the procedure for bleeding water intake hose from its seacock (after clos-
air from its fuel system. ing the seacock) and plunge it into the bilge as
Note: All gasoline engines and some diesel shown in the illustration. Of course, this will
engines have self-bleeding fuel systems. only work on relatively slow leaks.
2. Learn the procedure for bleeding air
from your engine’s cooling system after the Coolant

coolant has been drained and refilled.

3. Know all the possible sources of water Coolant
Pump
that can sink or damage your boat, and
know how to halt each one.
Rainwater can flood a boat that has a Re-route the Suction Sea Water
Hose So That It
Raw-water
Overboard
Pump
vertical exhaust stack, a problem limited to Pumps Bilge Water
Overboard
Sea
Strainer
workboats for the most part. Sailboats and
recreational powerboats with horizontal Fig. 1-11. Replumb the freshwater cooling system to
exhaust systems can also suffer damage from pump the bilge.
water ingress through the exhaust system,
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 15

WORK-AROUND SOLUTION The passage

through the
Correct Line of fitting
Drive for weakens it.
Stop a Runaway Diesel Engine Breaking the
Fitting Weakest part of the fitting
is here.
A runaway engine is usually a diesel engine
One quick hammer blow will stop
that is out of control and revving beyond the the engine by turning off fuel flow.

top speed limit of the engine’s governor. High

speed is far more destructive to a diesel engine
Fig. 1-13. Break the fuel fitting with a blow from the
than a gasoline engine for one very good rea- side.
son: the rods and pistons are far heavier for a
given bore size in a diesel. As speed increases,
forces of inertia multiply quickly. The crank- Further, on sailboats, the engine’s exhaust
shaft throws the piston toward top dead cen-
outlet from the exhaust manifold is some-
ter for the last time. The rod or rod bolts break
times well below the vessel’s waterline. There
and the engine fails!
should be a high, above-the-waterline loop in
One way to quickly stop a runaway diesel
engine is to cut off its air supply with a fab- the exhaust line between the water-lift muf-
ricated metal paddle. Caution: Do not under fler and the exhaust outlet to stop water from
any circumstances use a hand or any other siphoning in.
part of your body for this. Alternatively, if you The propeller shaft stuffing box is another
lack the time or means to shut off the air, the source of water coming into the vessel. Since
next best thing to do is to break off a vital fuel the stuffing box seal is low in the boat and
fitting in the incoming fuel supply plumbing. usually tucked out of sight, it can be dripping
without being noticed right away. This makes
adjustment of the stuffing box seal important.
The gasket behind the stuffing box can also
leak. See Figure 1-4 earlier in this chapter.
Fabricate paddle Another possible source of water in the
from 1/4-inch
aluminum or steel. bilge is a leaking freshwater tank. Rain can
enter the boat in other places besides a ver-
tical exhaust stack, such as through poorly
caulked areas on deck. Suspect one of these
sources if the water in your bilge tastes fresh.
Leaks along the keel and planking of a
wooden hull or at the outside of poorly sealed
through-hull fittings are another place where
water can enter the boat.
Fig. 1-12. Use a metal paddle to stop airflow to the Of course, hitting a rock and punching a
engine. hole in the hull will quickly sink a boat. If
there is time for coast guard personnel to
respond, they will often drop gasoline-powered
16 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

pumps on board so you can attempt to pump

3 Gently tap the Easy-Out
out the boat. Even these may not be big 4 If the drill
doesn't back
enough, however, unless the leak is slowed or out the stub,
use an ex-
stopped. 1 Grind a 2 Drill into the
tractor.

"center" stub .75 inch

with left-hand
REPAIRING AND REPLACING with a
carbide drill.
DAMAGED FASTENERS AND tool

FITTINGS
1. Broken steel engine exhaust bolts or
studs that are broken off in a blind hole
If possible, start the engine and get it up
to operating temperature, then turn it off and 1 2 3 4
disassemble as necessary to the point where
candle wax can be dripped on the exposed Fig. 1-15. Removing below-flush broken bolts.
threads of the exhaust bolt or on the bolt
stub. The wax will melt and find its way along
drill a hole in the bolt so that an Easy-Out may
the bolt threads. If there is a stub sticking out,
be driven into the freshly drilled hole to remove
an effort must be made to grab it with Vise-
the bolt.
Grip locking pliers. If it can’t be gripped, then
Just starting to drill a broken stud with
it is a good idea to first weld a washer onto
a left-handed bit will typically be enough to
the stub, and then weld a nut to the washer.
turn the bolt out of the threads.
Next, attempt to turn the stub out by the nut
2. A rounded-off bolt head or a head that
that was just welded (Fig. 1-14).
has rusted away
A bolt remnant that has broken off flush or
First, try an undersized 6-point box-end
recessed below the surface of the work piece
wrench as shown in Fig. 1-16. If this does not
(Fig. 1-15) will usually be loose in the threads.
In such a case, it often works to carefully use a
punch or chisel and drive on the outer perim- For 9/16 inch bolt heads that are rusted a smaller wrench
eter of the bolt to turn it counterclockwise. If size, use a 6-point 14 millimeter wrench to remove the bolt.

this won’t move it, use a left-handed drill bit to

14 mm six pt.

1 Weld washer to stub

2 Weld nut to washer 9/16" twelve pt.
3 Remove
The 6-point 14 millimeter wrench is slightly smaller than
9/16" and will grip the rusted bolt head far better than the
12-point 9/16 wrench.

Likewise, a 15 millimeter wrench is smaller than

1 2 3
a 5/8", and so on...

Fig. 1-14. One way to break out a fastener stub that is Fig. 1-16. Use a slightly undersized 6-point wrench to remove
standing proud of the work surface. rounded fasteners.
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 17

work, dress off the rounded head and press saves collapsing and damaging the fitting dur-
or drive a larger nut over the head of the bolt, ing removal.
then weld the larger nut to the bolt head. 6. A pipe nipple is to be removed
3. A bolt used for through-bolting is The nipple will sometimes collapse under
broken off the jaw pressure of a conventional external
If the back of the bolt can be accessed, it can pipe wrench, especially if it is thin-walled.
sometimes be turned by gripping with pliers To prevent this, insert a solid, snug-fitting
after treating it with candle wax or penetrating object into the nipple before using the pipe
oil. wrench (Fig. 1-20). Even a piece of wood can
4. A threaded bolt used for through-bolting be driven inside the pipe.
is broken off, but not in a blind hole 7. A threaded steel (gray or bright metal) or
A broken threaded bolt in this state aluminum fitting is broken off in a blind hole.
(Fig. 1-17) can, with practice and skill, be Use an internal pipe wrench to remove
blown out with a cutting torch, leaving the a larger broken fitting, and an Easy-Out
threads undamaged. After the bolt is blown style extractor to remove a smaller one. In
out, use a thread tap to clean the holes. Figure 1-21, an aluminum coolant pipe fit-
5. A threaded brass (yellow metal) fitting ting was broken off in an aluminum coolant
is broken off in a blind hole passage boss on an intake manifold. A large-
An internal pipe wrench (Fig. 1-18) or diameter extractor was first driven into the
large extractor (Fig. 1-19) will usually remove broken-off stub of the threaded fitting. Then
this kind of fitting. The internal pipe wrench the outside of the threaded boss in the mani-
fits inside the piece to be removed. As the fold was heated to expand the metal around the
wrench is turned, it expands. This action broken fitting, and finally the broken remnant

1 Grind a "center"
with a carbide tool.

This 3 If the drill bit doesn't

Technique 2 Drill through the back out the stub, use
Takes piece with a left- the torch to blow out
Practice! handed drill. the stub. Heat transfer
is slow enough that the
threads in the plate will
be OK.

1 2 3

Fig. 1-17. Removing a broken through-bolted stub.

18 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

2. Inserting the internal pipe wrench into the

pipe and turning nut with a wrench causes the
center knurled wheel to offset and grip
the inside of the pipe.
3. Twisting further will turn the pipe out of
its threads.

1. Before the internal pipe wrench is

placed in the pipe, its center wheel
is turned to be concentric with the
other two wheels.

Fig. 1-18. Using an internal pipe wrench.

Because the marine environment is

harsh, chemical products (lubricants, clean-
ers, paints, etc.) used to maintain boats must
be of industrial strength, as opposed to con-
sumer strength, to provide the required
strong cleansing and protective action. What
this means to the boatowner is that certain
chemical compounds or dust particles found
on boats can easily and irreversibly harm you
Fig. 1-19. An extractor for broken bolts and fittings, showing
or your children before you know you have
the helical grooves in its business end. Figure 1-21 been hurt! Strong detergents, the contents of
shows it in use. fire extinguishers, solvents, polyurethane com-
was turned counterclockwise (with a box-end pounds, and even the fumes from charging
wrench on the extractor) and removed. batteries are just a few items to consider.
Protect yourself and especially any children who
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS may be on the boat by obtaining and reading the
There is a material safety data sheet (MSDS) MSDS for the products you are using on board.
available free of charge for any chemical
product sold in the United States, and prod- KEEP YOURSELF SAFE
uct manufacturers are required by law to Take the necessary and commonsense safety
provide one upon request. precautions when working on boats. For
 THE NATURE OF THE BEAST 19

wooden insert

chain wrench

Fig. 1-20. Preventing pipe nipple collapse. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

extracted threads of
broken fitting coolant passage boss on
intake manifold

extractor

Fig. 1-21. An extractor in action.

20 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

example, you should obtain solvent-resistant grinding or welding, wear leather gloves to
or vinyl gloves to protect your hands and skin protect your hands.
from chemical compounds. When your work Finally, for breathing protection from
will create loud noises, wear earplugs or other dust particles and mist, use a respirator with
types of ear protection. the correct cartridge inserts for the job you
When you’re grinding or using hazard- are doing. Get a chemical cartridge when
ous chemicals, wear safety glasses and use a appropriate, and a dust and particulate car-
full-face shield over the glasses. When you’re tridge for grinding wood, fiberglass, or metal.
 CHAPTER 2
UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES

There is no more critical piece of machinery engine is obviously mounted entirely outside
on your boat than its engine, so this where the hull. Please see Chapter 12 for more on
we’ll start our tour of mechanical systems. outboard engines and stern drives. This chap-
This chapter introduces both gasoline and ter will focus on diesel and gasoline inboard
diesel engines, showing how they’re similar engines.
and where they differ.
Like marine gasoline engines, marine die- IN-LINE ENGINES
sel engines come with either a single cylinder Most in-line engines are easy to maintain and
(often called a one-lunger), in-line cylinders keep clean, largely because all the cylinders
(2, 3, 4, 5, or 6), or V configurations. The are lined up in a single row, making them eas-
cylinders in an in-line engine are arrayed in a ier to access than on V engines. In-line engine
single row, whereas a V engine has two banks, designs vary, as shown in Figure 2-1, but
or rows, of cylinders. regardless of design differences the working
Both gas and diesel engines come in V-6, principles remain the same for either diesel
V-8, and V-10 configurations, and diesels can or gasoline models. A key difference between
also have a V-12 or even a V-16 configura- them, however, is that marine diesel engines
tion. Those are big engines indeed. However, can have multiple heads, whereas in-line gas-
most diesel engines found on recreational oline engines have only one cylinder head per
sailboats are typically less than 50 hp and engine. The cylinders on an in-line engine are
have up to four cylinders. The more powerful numbered starting from the front end, where
marine gasoline engines, including inboard/ the water pump is located. The first cylinder
outboard and common outboard engines, are is the one closest to the water pump.
often V configurations, whereas very small The locations of the timing gears and fuel
inboard/outboard and outboard engines have system components in in-line engines vary
in-line configurations. widely. Figure 2-2 shows the timing gears on
Inboard/outboard engine installations a John Deere diesel. (In marine engines, the
(stern drives), keep the engine inside the front of the engine is always the end opposite
hull like a true inboard, but a rotating shaft the flywheel, and the transmission is always at
pierces the transom and connects the engine the rear end, outside the flywheel. In a stan-
to an outdrive (leg) through the transom of dard propulsion system the front of the engine
the boat. The outdrive usually contains the is forward, but in a V drive it’s aft.) This is the
unit’s forward and reverse gears as well as the ideal location for the timing gears because it
propeller. On the other hand, an outboard allows for quick “in-frame overhauls” when an
21
22 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Two valve covers, Three valve covers,

two cylinder heads, three cylinder heads,
two head gaskets. three head gaskets.
One valve cover,
Transmission
one cylinder head,
Mounted
one head gasket.
at the
Rear
Cylinder Front Sump
block Mid Sump
Six valve covers, Six valve covers,
Deep sump one cylinder head, six cylinder heads,
one head gasket. six head gaskets.
(Timing gears may
be at front or
rear of the engine.)

Shallow Sump Rear Sump

Fig. 2-1. In-line engine configurations.

Fig. 2-2. Front-mounted diesel engine timing gears.

 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 23

Front-mounted timing gears also allow

THE IN-FRAME OVERHAUL better access for camshaft repairs or replace-
ment when the engine loses efficiency due
The term “in-frame overhaul” originated with to wear. Easy access means it is less time-
trucks and heavy equipment, and it usually consuming and less expensive to do the
applies to diesel engines. When an in-frame work, always a big plus. In addition, the
overhaul is performed, the engine remains timing gears often drive the fuel injection
bolted to the boat. Leaving the engine in place system, and when they are front-mounted it
is quick and inexpensive compared to remov- is much easier to uncouple the engine from
ing it for a complete rebuild. In-frame over- the transmission to replace the camshaft or
hauls will restore full power to the engine, and repair the timing gear train.
most diesels can be in-framed twice before a
The timing gears on all new four-stroke
full reconditioning is necessary.
marine gasoline engines in North America,
Although an in-frame overhaul is quicker than
a complete rebuild, it still takes work. The first the market I’m familiar with, and many
step involves removing the coolant pump, cylin- marine diesel engines are front-mounted. On
der head, oil pan, and lube oil pump. The piston four-stroke outboards, the timing gears are
and connecting rod assemblies, along with the positioned at the top of the engine.
cylinder liners, have to come out, and the block
and all gasket surfaces must be cleaned. To finish
the job, you’ll need a cylinder kit. A cylinder kit
Engines of Less Than 400 HP May Have
includes the piston, rings, wrist pins, and cylin- an External Fuel Injection Pump Mounted and Driven
der liners. Install these new parts and replace from Either Side of the Cylinder Block...
Timing gears
the coolant pump. Replacing the lube oil pump Fuel Timing
Cover at front
Injection Caterpillar
is optional, depending on its condition. Pump Front of engine Used By: Cummins
seen from above Deere
Diesel engines are rugged, and many parts Timing gears Isuzu
Perkins
can be reused, as specified by the engine man- at rear
Volvo
Yanmar
ufacturer. If the crankshaft bearing journals
are in good condition and the manufacturer’s ...Or Individual Injectors at
specifications say it is OK, the crankshaft and Each Cylinder...
Unit injectors
even the existing bearings can be reused. You under the valve
cover.
can often order specialized manuals from Used By: Caterpillar
Cummins
engine dealers that provide details on which Unit injectors
outside valve Deere
parts are acceptable for reuse. For example, if cover

you own a Caterpillar diesel, you could order

the Engine Bearings and Crankshaft manual ...Or Even a "Pump-In-Block"
Arrangement that Feeds Injectors
(publication number SEBD0531). Under the Valve Cover.
Used By:
Individual pumps
Yanmar
in the block.

engine rebuild is required; it eliminates the

time-consuming and expensive job of uncou- Fig. 2-3. Various fuel system configurations for in-line diesel
pling the engine from the transmission. engines.
24 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

V ENGINES cylinder numbering usually starts at the front

A V engine has two rows of cylinders, called end (i.e., the water-pump end) of the engine.
the left and right banks. The term “bank” The cylinder closest to the water pump is the
refers to one side of a V engine, hence the first (No. 1) cylinder.
right- and left-handed designation, and it It does get interesting here, though,
can only be used to describe the cylinders on because the two forwardmost cylinders on a
this type of engine. In-line engines don’t have V engine both share one “crank pin” on the
banks, since there is only one row of cylin- crankshaft. However, because of the cylinder
ders, not two. offset required for two connecting rods to fit
Identifying the first cylinder of an in-line on one crank pin, one of the two cylinders
engine is pretty simple. It is a little trickier will be ahead of the other. The forwardmost
on a V engine because the location varies. one is cylinder No. 1.
On one, the first (No. 1) cylinder may be on It definitely matters which cylinder is first
the left bank and on another it may be on in the firing order. Engine manufacturers usu-
the right bank. However, as a general rule, ally start with that one for timing and firing-
order purposes, and shop manuals will require
you to identify it before going to work.
TERMINOLOGY FOR IN-LINE Again, every V engine has one bank of
AND V ENGINES cylinders offset forward or aft of the other
(when viewed from overhead) by the thick-
When ordering parts for a V or in-line engine, ness of the big end of the connecting rod, as
pretend you are facing the flywheel mounted shown in Fig. 2-4.
on the rear of the engine. Then refer to either Cylinder heads, valve covers, and head
the right or left side of an in-line engine, or the gasket systems (Fig. 2-5) also vary by man-
right or left bank of a V engine. Don’t mix up the ufacturer. Some companies will install one
terms side and bank; it will cause confusion at
the order desk. Simply say you need a part for
the left side of an in-line engine or for the left V engines are thought In reality they are
bank of a V engine, and take it from there. to look like this: shaped like this:
number
The reason for visualizing yourself stand- one
ing at the flywheel end of either type of engine intake air
cylinder
passages
when ordering parts is simple: engines can intake
be mounted with the flywheel facing the bow manifold

or stern, depending on the driveshaft configu-

ration (V drive or straight). A generator can be (rear)
ignition
mounted athwartships, further complicating distributor
matters. If you always use the flywheel as a
reference point, you won’t confuse left with Fig. 2-4. On V engines, one bank of cylinders is offset
forward or aft of the other when viewed from
right, and you will receive the correct parts
overhead. In this gasoline V-8 schematic, the
when your order arrives. distributor shows as a black dot at the rear of the
engine.
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 25

The Liner Counter Bore Wet Liner

Valve Covers Cylinder
Heads
Liner Band
Drain
Holes

Wrist
Pin
Left Bank
Water
Right Bank Jacket
Head Gaskets
Cylinder Block

Front Vibration
Damper

LINER
SEALS
Fig. 2-5. Diesel V-engine construction. In this schematic
we’re looking at the engine’s front end, where the Connecting
water pump would be located. Rod

Fig. 2-6. Wet cylinder liner.

cylinder head for each bank, whereas others
will install multiple heads. There are other
variations too, such as multiple head gas- The liner counter bore is the step machined
kets, heads, and valve covers, and each die- into the cylinder block; the cylinder liner
sel engine manufacturer has its own type of flange rests on the step. When the cylinder
cylinder configuration. Cylinder design and head bolts clamp the head gasket between
construction materials determine the cost of the cylinder head and the top cylinder liner
the engine, its length, weight, longevity, effi- flange, the force exerted on the cylinder liner
ciency, and ease of maintenance and repair. counter bore is considerable. Once tightened
The many variables won’t pose a problem as (torqued) according to specification, the head
long as you know your particular engine. bolts stretch a little and in effect become
powerful springs.
WET CYLINDER LINERS
While the wet liner design does provide
Just what is a wet cylinder liner? The term for cylinder replacement that brings the
describes a diesel engine where engine cool- engine back to the level of power and effi-
ant is in direct contact with the outer diam- ciency it had when new, the design does have
eter of the replaceable cylinder liner (a wet one major drawback. Wet liners can allow
liner). See Figure 2-6 for an example. Some coolant to leak into the oil pan if the liner
diesel engines have wet liners, but you won’t counter bore doesn’t fit properly, if the liner
find them in marine gasoline engines in develops a pinhole, or if the liner seals fail.
North America.
Diesel engines with wet liners can be THE DRY CYLINDER LINER
rebuilt a number of times before the cylin- Engines that have a replaceable sleeve (wear
der block becomes worn and the liner coun- surface) to house the piston and rings are
ter bore requires a trip to the machine shop. described as dry liners. In contrast to wet
26 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Liner Counter Bore Ledge

bore block design is also used in relatively
Diesel
Cylinder light, high-speed diesel engines.
Piston Block

DIRECTION OF ROTATION (DOR)

Dry Type
Cylinder
Liner
To understand engine crankshaft rotation
direction, consider a chicken slowly turning
Water
Jacket on a rotisserie at the deli. To a person view-
ing the head end of the now headless chicken,
the bird will appear to be turning clockwise.
However, if we change our vantage point
to view the bird from the other end of the
Fig. 2-7. Dry cylinder liner. skewer—i.e. from the tail end of the feath-
erless fricassee—it will appear to be turning
liners, dry liners are not in direct contact with counterclockwise.
coolant, so there will never be a coolant leak As with a rotisserie chicken, standard engine
into the oil pan (Fig. 2-7). crankshaft rotation is counterclockwise as
viewed from the rear, for the sake of consis-
PARENT BORE CYLINDER BLOCKS
tency when ordering engine-driven accessories
Engines that have the cylinder bore cast and
such as hydraulic pumps and air compressors.
then finished in the cylinder block (Fig. 2-8)
And, similarly, looking at the crank’s move-
are said to be parent bore engines, that is,
ment from the other end will show it is turn-
they have no replaceable cylinder liner. The
ing clockwise as seen from the front.
advantage of this common automotive gaso-
Now let’s turn our attention to the direc-
line engine design is that it makes for a lighter
tion the cam turns (Fig. 2-9). The reason to
and less expensive cylinder block. The parent
do this is in case we must order and install an
accessory that drives off the cam instead of
Diesel Combustion Chamber Piston Rings
the crankshaft.
The cam and crank turn the same direc-
tion when a chain or belt drives the cam-
shaft, as seen in engine No. 1 in Fig. 2-9. The
cam in engine No. 2, however, rotates in the
opposite direction from the crank. Yet a third
Water
Jacket
application, engine No. 3, uses an idler gear
to drive the cam, and as shown, the cam turns
the same direction as the crankshaft.
ENGINE MECHANISMS
AND SYSTEMS
Every marine engine, regardless of its configu-
ration, has mechanisms and systems that sup-
Fig. 2-8. Parent bore cylinder block construction. port its operation. Some of the systems are
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 27

1 2 3

Timing Idler
Chain Camshaft
Gear
or Belt
Crankshaft

Fig. 2-9. Direction of crankshaft and cam rotation.

parasitic and draw power from the engine but 17. valve operating mechanism
still permit it to run well. In fact, the engine 18. cylinder head mechanism (including
won’t run without some of the parasitic sys- valves, seats, springs, and retainers)
tems. The oil pump, for example, draws power, 19. cylinder block and crankshaft
and it’s a necessity. mechanism
While designs vary, every reciprocating 20. flywheel mechanism
engine (those with pistons traveling up and
down) must have the following twenty mech- To learn the troubleshooting skills that
anisms and systems, many of which absorb apply to your boat’s engine, you must take the
power: time to get familiar with it. The first step is
to become acquainted with the engine man-
1. fuel system ual. Go through it, focusing on each system
2. cooling system common to all reciprocating engines. Learn
3. air intake system the particulars of yours. This is important
4. exhaust system because spare parts and maintenance proce-
5. lubrication system dures are specific to each brand and model
6. starting and electrical system of engine. Use the list of twenty mechanisms
7. engine cover system (the valve cover, and systems as a guide. Let’s take a look at an
for example) interesting example that will illustrate how
8. emission control system different one engine can be from another.
9. fastening system (head bolts and In the 1970s, banjo fittings, fuel fittings
other fasteners) shaped like banjos, were only found in engines
10. sealing system (consisting of gaskets, manufactured in Japan or Europe (Fig. 2-10).
O-rings, and lip-type seals) In North America at that time, most engine
11. plumbing system manufacturers used either pipe threads or
12. filtration system flanges. Sometimes the flange required a
13. control system gasket or O-ring seal. Thus, the parts and
14. engine mounting system procedures to deal with an emergency leak
15. camshaft and timing gear mechanism differed, depending on where the engine was
16. piston, connecting rod, and cylinder made. Does your boat need spare pipe fit-
mechanism tings (North American), or does it need spare
28 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

copper sealing
port washer

copper sealing
washer
banjo
bolt
head
banjo bolt threads
into a port here

hose carrying air, oil, fuel, or coolant

Fig. 2-10. A banjo fitting like this can carry fuel, air, oil, or coolant. In practice the
bolt threads into a port (note the threads at top left), and the banjo bolt is
tightened until the port in its shank, which is visible in the photo, is recessed
into the fitting. The fluid then flows from the engine block or accessory into the
banjo bolt, then makes a right-angle turn through the banjo bolt’s port and is
distributed to its destination.

copper washers (European or Japanese) for Engineers (SAE)? Do the heads of the bolts
banjo fittings? It’s a good idea to find out. use metric or SAE sockets? Should your
Consider the engine fasteners. Are they spare O-ring seal kit be metric or SAE? How
metric bolts or standard ones based on the is the front crankshaft pulley retained on the
criteria set by the Society of Automotive crankshaft? Is it fixed to a tapered shaft or a
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 29

keyed tapered shaft? Is the shaft straight and When a hydraulically locked diesel
keyed, or is it straight but not keyed? Paying engine is to be drained and restored after
attention to details like these will enable you submersion, it can be done without remov-
to effectively deal with any trouble that might ing the heads. However, as mentioned above,
come up while you are on the water. the engine will require special measures to
clear the fluid in the piston crown. If this
COMBUSTION CHAMBERS
is not done, severe overpressurizing of the
The combustion chamber configuration con-
cylinder will occur when the starter motor
stitutes an important difference between
is energized. For more on this, please see
gasoline and diesel engines. Gasoline engines
Chapter 11.
have the chamber above the top of the piston
as shown in Figure 2-11, while most diesel
engines have the chamber below the top of DIESEL ENGINE OPERATION
the piston. This is especially important after WHEN STARTING
an engine is submerged or develops a hydrau- When you start a diesel, the engine turns and
lic lock, meaning there is fluid in the cylinder each cylinder fires in succession. During this
above the piston. process the engine must overcome the increas-
If a gasoline engine develops a hydraulic ing power demand from parasitic loads, espe-
lock, most of the fluid above the rings will, in cially when the engine is cold. When a 12-volt
time, leak into the crankcase through the gaps starter motor begins cranking a large cold
at the ends of the piston rings. You would diesel engine, voltage at the starter can drop
remove the excess fluid by simply draining from 13.8 volts to only 10. Amperage does
the crankcase oil. the opposite, going from zero to well over
However, when the combustion chamber 1,500 amps in an instant. The sudden, strong
is in the piston, as is the case with many die- electromagnetic field around the starter cables
sel engines, the fluid must be removed from may make them twitch or seem to crawl. Add
the piston crown before attempting to start parasitic loads into the equation and you can
the engine. For complete directions on clear- see why a cold start can sometimes be trouble-
ing a hydraulically locked diesel engine, see some. The following are examples of parasitic
Chapter 11. loads during engine start-up.
Power is needed for

1. overcoming inertia (resistance to

motion) and turning the heavy flywheel
Combustion Combustion
chamber chamber
and related components;
in the head in the 2. turning the fuel transfer pump;
piston
3. the fuel injection equipment (or ignition
system);
4. the engine oil pump;
Gasoline Engine Diesel Engine
5. the engine coolant pump;
Fig. 2-11. Gasoline and diesel engine combustion chambers. 6. the alternator;
30 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

7. moving the column of cold air in the As the oil pressure increases, the crank-
exhaust pipes and muffler; shaft seems to levitate and soon rises to the
8. moving the pistons in cylinders that center of its bore in the cylinder block. It is
are not yet firing, along with their lifted to and supported in this position by the
valve mechanisms. oil wedge that acts between the crankshaft
journals and the engine bearings. It would
Another big energy draw includes starting not be far-fetched to say the crankshaft surfs
an engine with a power-take-off engaged. This on a film of oil.
will greatly increase the load on the starter If the crankshaft main bearings have four
motor. (A power-take-off, or PTO, usually thousandths (0.004) of an inch oil clearance,
powers a hydraulic pump that drives a pot then the combination of oil pressure and the
hauler, rigging hoist, etc., on a workboat.) rotation of the crankshaft will lift the crank-
shaft half this distance, or 0.002 of an inch, to
DIESEL FUEL INJECTION
the center of its bore. This weight can be sev-
While the piston is approaching top-dead-
eral hundred pounds, depending on the weight
center on the compression stroke, the fuel
of the crankshaft, flywheel, and the vibration
injection system quickly builds high pres-
damper. If the engine has a front-mounted
sure to inject fuel into the cylinders. The fuel
power-take-off clutch, the oil film must lift this
bursts into each cylinder and ignites in the
additional weight as well. On larger engines
hot, freshly compressed air in the cylinder.
this weight can exceed one thousand pounds.
The heated air results from compression. This
process happens one cylinder at a time, based THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
on the engine’s firing order. Plenty of fuel is When the engine was at rest, the exhaust sys-
injected into the cylinders to get the engine tem and muffler were full of cool, dense air.
turning at start-up, but the amount the gover- This heavy column of air in the exhaust system
nor delivers quickly diminishes as the engine initially resists movement. But after the engine
accelerates to its preset low idle speed. starts, it does move, though slowly at first, like
molasses. Soon the exhaust gases, which can
LUBRICATION
be as hot as 250 to 600°F soon after starting,
Prior to start-up, when the engine was turned
push the cold air out of the system. Later, as
off the night before, the lubricating oil slowly
the engine warms, these gases will become
receded from between many of the compo-
even hotter and expand, losing density and
nents that depend so much on it. As the engine
becoming much easier to pump through the
begins to turn, the oil pump quickly lifts a col-
exhaust system. The two main types of marine
umn of oil from the oil pan and forces all the air
exhaust systems are covered in Chapter 8.
from the lubrication system. With the air gone,
the vital lubricating oil flows in and around HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE
and through the engine, within seconds of A basic understanding of horsepower and
starting. In addition to providing lubrication, torque is essential to broadening your work-
the oil film centers the big end of each connect- ing knowledge of marine engines. Let’s start
ing rod around its crankpin on the crankshaft. by briefly defining them both. As shown in
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 31

minute (rpm) is the term in common use. To

clarify torque, consider what happens when you
attempt to remove a stuck screw: twisting force
with no movement of the screw is purely torque.
James Watt, an Englishman, defined
horsepower in quantifiable terms by learning
what a good horse could lift with a block and
Direction of
twisting force tackle, and also how long it took the horse
12 inches to do a certain amount of work. He found a
horse could raise 200 pounds of ore 165 feet
in one minute. This is equal to lifting 33,000
pounds to a height of one foot in one minute,
which he defined as 1 hp.
100
In a boat with a displacement hull, the
pounds engine always “thinks” it is going up a steep
hill. Therefore, the power ratings for a marine
Fig. 2-12. One hundred foot-pounds of torque.
propulsion engine in this application will
usually be a continuous rating rather than an
Figure 2-12, torque is a twisting force, and the intermittent rating. In other words, the engine
common unit of torque in North America is will be rated at a level of power that it can sus-
the foot-pound. tain the majority of the time it is running.
Horsepower describes how fast a shaft To illustrate this concept, let’s examine
with a known load and measure of torque will some important differences (Table 2-1) between
turn in a specific time period. Revolutions per two 350 hp engines. One is a gasoline engine

Table 2-1. Comparison of 350 HP Gasoline and Diesel Engines

1970 Vintage Hot Rod Common Truck
350 hp V-8 gasoline engine 350 hp diesel engine
Cylinders 8 6
RPM 6,300 2,100
Cruising rpm 2,000–3,000 1,300–1,650
Highest torque 300 ft.-lb. at 2,800 rpm 1,400 ft.-lb. at 1,300 rpm
Bore size 4 inches 51/2 inches
Stroke 31/2 inches 6 inches
Engine displacement 350 cubic inches 855 cubic inches
Engine weight 600 lb. 2,000 lb.
Fuel consumption / lb. of fuel per hp per hour
1 2 / lb. of fuel per hp per hour
1 3

Fuel economy 8 mpg with 4,000 lb. rolling load 7 mpg with 75,000 lb. rolling load
Miles between tune-ups 20,000 50,000
Engine life 100,000 miles 1,000,000 miles +
32 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

in a small car, and the other is a heavy-duty

diesel engine in a truck. FOR THE WORKBOAT
POWER RATINGS Strategy for Avoiding Wet Stacking
Both engines in Table 2-1 have excess power While gasoline engines tolerate a wide
available. Neither of them will produce maxi- range of loads within their power rating, die-
mum power all the time. The hot-rod enthu- sel engines are much more finicky about how
siast wants excess power to accelerate quickly. they are used. One of the most challenging
However, the truck driver needs excess power aspects of operating diesel engines on the
to accelerate with a heavy load, often bucking water is dealing with the problem of running
a headwind or climbing a hill. The table com- them without sufficient load, resulting in wet
pares these two different types of engines to stacking and fuel dilution.
show how horsepower relates to engine speed Wet stacking simply means that unburned
and torque. It is easy to see that a low-torque fuel is leaving the cylinder and going into the
engine can do a lot of work quickly when rpm exhaust manifold and out the stack. When
is increased. While increasing engine speed this happens, black leaks develop in the joints
of the exhaust system and make a terrible
does raise horsepower, it also reduces engine
mess. Wet stacking also forces unburned fuel
life. The table can be summarized another
past the piston rings and into the engine oil,
way: engine efficiency equals power produced
causing fuel dilution of the lube oil. When an
(work done) based on fuel type. engine is in good condition, the cure is to work
ENGINE RATINGS it harder. If the engine is in poor condition, it
The truck engine in Table 2-1 has an inter- must be rebuilt and then worked harder.
mittent rating—that is, it can’t produce 350 hp
every hour it is running, but only when the
truck is briskly accelerating or climbing a hill.fishing boat, and have engines with either
The driver watches the exhaust temperature intermittent or continuous ratings.
gauge and must downshift and ease off the A continuous marine rating is a level of
throttle when the exhaust temperature climbs power that the engine can sustain the major-
too high. Once the top of the hill is reached, ity of the time it is running.
the driver downshifts and also throttles back Diesel engine ratings determine not only
for the downgrade, and the engine cools off as what an engine is capable of, but also the way
indicated by the exhaust temperature gauge, it must be used. For example, to get the lon-
otherwise known as the pyrometer. gest life out of an engine rated for generator
use, it must carry a load that is no less than
HORSEPOWER RATINGS IN BOATS 80 percent of its maximum rating 80 percent
Small powerboats, such as those used for of the time. Also, the speed range for most
waterskiing or brief sprints across a lake, have diesel generator sets is only 1,800 rpm, quite
pleasure craft ratings for those short bursts of a difference from the rating for the same
speed. Oceangoing sailboats use far less power engine in a truck that might be set to run at
per foot of length than, say, a commercial a maximum of 2,300 rpm. Following this
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 33

80 percent rule, a 100-kilowatt marine gen- Some engines can tolerate operating
erator set would not be allowed to produce under a light load better than others. There is
less than 80 kilowatts. a qualifier for this statement, though, and it is
Conditions occur when there just isn’t that most boat engines are ten to fifteen years
enough load to put on an engine. One example behind the state-of-the-art in fuel efficiency.
of this would be a main propulsion engine rated The following list focuses on older engines
at 400 hp that is periodically used to power in the 20 to 500 hp range, and it contains
hydraulics at the low idle speed of 700 rpm. A general rules for the most efficient features
few minutes of this isn’t so bad, but hours of for diesel engines that must handle extended
producing only 20 hp, or 5 percent of its rating, periods of light loading:
will harm the engine, because the unburned 1. Newer engines are better at operating
fuel (soot) will flow past the piston rings and under light loads than older ones because
dilute the engine oil. of improved designs and materials. Another
Here’s another example: A generator set reason is that increasingly stringent emis-
engine is rated at 60 kilowatts to cover a ves- sion standards are helping to ensure that all
sel’s heavier electrical loads, but it only pro- engines do a better job of burning fuel in the
duces 12 kilowatts at night when the crew is cylinder, and not in the exhaust manifold,
using the electric range and doing laundry. even during light loading conditions.
In both these cases, problems will eventually 2. Four-stroke engines handle light loads
crop up because unburned fuel will create better than two-stroke engines because
soot, which is bad for engines. there is more time for the fuel to burn before
Extended light loading will do two things the exhaust stroke.
to your engine: First, incompletely burned 3. Four-stroke engines with cast-iron pistons
fuel, due to the lower cylinder pressure, will do better under light loads than those with
exit the cylinder through the exhaust valves. aluminum pistons. At lower cylinder temper-
This fuel will paint the inside of your exhaust atures, the cast-iron piston-to-cylinder-wall
manifold with a thick black ooze. It will soon clearance is less than it would be with alumi-
find any leaks in your exhaust system. On num pistons.
the outside of the engine this fuel looks a 4. Direct fuel-injected engines do better
lot more like lubricating oil than diesel fuel, under light loads than precombustion-
and its appearance has been the trigger for chamber engines because the injection pres-
unneeded repair jobs. sure is much greater and the fuel is more
Second, as mentioned above, the unburned finely atomized.
fuel will dilute the oil with fuel, reducing the 5. Air-cooled engines do better than water-
viscosity of the oil. This will prematurely clog cooled engines under light loads because
the engine’s oil filter with soot, which in turn the cylinder temperature of an air-cooled
will cause the filter bypass valve to open (if engine tends to be 10 to 15 percent greater.
so equipped). This necessary but unfortunate 6. Electronically controlled engines perform
event will result in the engine being lubri- better under light loads than mechanically
cated with unfiltered oil! governed engines because they inject fuel
34 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

at higher pressures. The electronic engine’s for handling significant periods of operation
control system quickly cuts back the amount under light loads. The engine would be tech-
of fuel injected as the load tapers off. nologically advanced, air-cooled, electronically
7. Square-cut piston compression rings controlled, four-stroke, direct-injected, natu-
often work better for lightly loaded engines rally aspirated, and it would have cast-iron
than the tapered keystone-style rings. The three-ring pistons and square-cut compression
reason for this is that square-cut rings are rings!
not as dependent on cylinder pressure to It’s too bad there is no such engine in pro-
force the rings against the cylinder wall dur- duction, although the air-cooled Deutz die-
ing light loads. sel engine is closer than most to this ideal
8. Three-ring pistons seal better than two- specimen for extended use under light loads.
ring pistons when an engine is under light However, few boats have space for an air-
load simply because they seal compression cooled engine.
more efficiently. Two-ring engines are now As engines are reconditioned or replaced,
quite rare. though, it’s important to keep the above attri-
9. Naturally aspirated engines generally butes in mind as part of a strategy to address
work better for light loads than turbo- problems associated with running an engine
charged engines because their compression under light loads.
ratios are one or two points higher than a
turbocharged engine. FUEL QUALITY AND BACK-PRESSURE
10. Small-bore engines will work better than If you regularly buy your fuel from a single
large-bore engines because it is easier to con- supplier, it makes sense to verify its qual-
trol piston ring leakage in a small cylinder. ity. Consider sending a sample of the fuel
If we add all of the above together, we can to a lab and ask for a test to determine the
come up with the ideal marine diesel engine cetane number. Some fuel suppliers have this
Keystone Rings Square-cut Rings information available for each shipment they
or
(upper two) (all three) receive. All engine manufacturers publish
Ring fuel specifications for their engines, and the
Piston fuel must conform to these specifications to
Cylinder
Wall Land ensure long engine life.
(groove) Fuel additives are available from the
Stanadyne Corporation and many other
companies. Stanadyne also tests fuel for their
customers. Marvel Mystery Oil improves the
lubricating qualities of any fuel in either gas-
oline or diesel engines and also works well in
the engine crankcase oil. Cleaning and water
removal from diesel fuel can be done with
a centrifuge or with fuel-water separators.
Fig. 2-13. Comparison of keystone and square-cut rings. While a centrifuge is expensive and requires
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 35

constant maintenance, it is the method of stems from the greater energy content of each
choice for cleaning fuel. gallon of diesel fuel. However, the best marine
Restricting the flow of exhaust gases in the diesel engines still harness the smaller part of
exhaust system creates back-pressure, mak- the energy in each gallon of fuel. The energy that
ing it difficult for the gases to escape from is not wasted as heat to the exhaust and cool-
the cylinders. Excess back-pressure mimics a ing systems does the work of moving the boat
plugged air filter, which causes intake airflow through the water or powering a generator set.
restriction. Fresh air must get into the cyl- To save fuel after starting a cold diesel engine,
inders for combustion, and the spent gases, idle it long enough to get good oil pressure
depleted of oxygen, must get out. Anything and then get the boat moving with low rpm,
that hinders air and gas flow will cause prob- light throttle, and light load until the engine is
lems, such as low power, and on older engines up to temperature. Never use full power until
it will cause black smoke. the engine is all the way up to operating tem-
Testing exhaust back-pressure is done with perature. Marine and heavy equipment engines
a mercury-filled manometer. Engine manufac- take more time to warm up than a truck engine
turers publish their specification for exhaust because their cooling system capacities are much
back-pressure in inches of mercury (hg). This larger.
is covered in detail in Chapters 8 and 16. These additional items will also increase
fuel efficiency:
MARINE ENGINE ENERGY
EFFICIENCY
For the foreseeable future, diesel engines will 1. Remove barnacles and keep the bottom
remain significantly more efficient (Fig. 2-14) of the boat painted.
than gasoline engines. This would probably be 2. When possible, reduce wind resistance.
less true if there were more gasoline engines 3. Use the maximum allowable pitch and
with direct injection of fuel into the cylinders. prop diameter that will allow the engine
In other words, if these engines worked more to get up to its rated full-load speed.
like diesels, they’d be better at burning fuel. 4. Bevel skegs and underwater supports, if
Another reason why a diesel is more efficient so equipped.
5. Good shaft alignment reduces friction
losses.
Heat Wasted to
the Atmosphere
Heat Wasted to
the Atmosphere
6. Be sure the exhaust system is
Through the
Exhaust System
Through the
Exhaust System unrestricted.
Heat Available Heat Available
to Do Work to Do Work 7. Engines are more efficient with plenty
(Approx. 30%) (Approx. 20%)
Heat Wasted to the Heat Wasted to the of cold air coming into the engine room.
Sea Through the Sea Through the
Engine Cooling Engine Cooling
System
8. Precisely tune your engine.
System
9. Use the lightest allowable weight of lube
Energy Available from Each Energy Available from Each
Gallon of Marine Engine Diesel Gallon of Marine Engine oil, or, better yet, use synthetic oil.
Fuel to Do "Work" Gasoline to Do "Work"
10. Use the smallest allowable generator set
Fig. 2-14. Diesel engine (left) and gasoline engine (right) fuel for house power; try to size it to operate
efficiency compared. at over 85 percent of its rated capacity.
36 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

11. Wherever possible, use 3-phase motors

for the best electrical efficiency instead BARRING AN ENGINE OVER
of single-phase motors.
12. For larger boats, if light loading is not a Barring is the word used to describe rotating the
problem, use waste heat from the engine engine crankshaft slowly by hand without energiz-
water jackets to warm the vessel, rather ing the starter motor. There are times that engines,
than electric heaters. both gasoline and diesel, need to be barred. This
13. A little-known cause of excess fuel is true during engine installation, tune-ups, when
consumption is poor tracking while the doing valve adjustments, or when an engine is
vessel is under way, which results from hydraulically locked due to fluid above a piston.
Because there are so many engine configura-
poorly designed rudders and/or faulty
tions, there are several ways to turn an engine
autopilot adjustment.
manually. The guidelines for barring an engine
are as follows: Turn the crankshaft by any
ENGINE MOUNTING means that won’t harm the engine or yourself.
Engine mounting is not a short-term effi- Many engine manufacturers make provisions
ciency improver, but it is a necessity to ensure for the use of an engine turning tool that engages
maximum engine and transmission longevity. either the flywheel ring gear teeth or the timing
Bolting a square (symmetrical) engine into gear train teeth on the front of the engine.
a boat’s crooked or uneven engine bed rails When these options aren’t available, there
will actually bend the engine. We are using is sometimes a timing window on the flywheel
the term square as a carpenter uses the word. housing that allows the use of a pry bar on
Houses can be out of square, and so can the the flywheel teeth. When there is a mechanical
power-take-off (PTO) on the front of the engine,
area of a boat into which the engine or any
a pipe wrench can be used to turn the PTO
other piece of equipment is bolted. Rigidly
shaft after the PTO clutch has been engaged.
mounted marine engines, especially longer Also, the starter can be removed to allow the
ones, can be installed in such a way that use of a pry bar on the flywheel teeth.
extreme force is exerted on the cylinder block.
This twisting force can be so great that the
cylinder block and the crankshaft bore inside Turning
actually bend enough to warp the crankshaft. the
crankshaft
When the crankshaft warps like this it
is called crankshaft deflection. Crankshaft
deflection is the cause for the more spectacu-
lar and expensive engine failures that occur,
especially for those failures that are harder to
explain. Fig. 2-15. Barring over an engine. The photo shows
For smaller, lighter engines, avoiding the a bar attached to a socket wrench on
soft foot, which we will now define, easily the end of the crankshaft. Some engines
are fitted by the manufacturer with
eliminates crankshaft deflection. Marine an opening through which a specially
engines have four mounting feet that sit on designed turning tool can be inserted.
the engine bed mounting rails. Sometimes
 UNDERSTANDING MARINE ENGINES 37

For large, long, heavy engines, the span is

On small engines, turning can often be much greater and the effect of being bolted
accomplished by putting a wrench on the down in a bind is much more serious. The
crankshaft hub retaining bolt or even on the procedure for dealing with crankshaft deflec-
alternator’s pulley retaining nut. tion on large engines is more complex. A
marine mechanic can follow the simple test
procedure published by Caterpillar for check-
ing and correcting crankshaft deflection.
the transmission will also have two mount-
ing feet. If any of these feet shows a gap A USEFUL ENGINE PROCEDURE
between it and the engine bed before the There will come a time when you will want
foot is tightened, then it is a soft foot. A soft to turn the engine over without engaging the
foot will need to be shimmed as described in starter motor. On smaller engines you can do
Chapter 17. Otherwise, it’s easy to picture this with a turning tool supplied by the man-
what would happen if this soft foot were ufacturer. On larger engines the procedure
violently pulled down by being bolted to is somewhat more complex. In either case,
the engine bed: the mounting bolt tension though, turning an engine without engaging
would put the engine in a bind as the bolt is the starter is, in the lingo of the trade, called
tightened. barring the engine over.
 CHAPTER 3
MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS

The cooling system on your boat’s engine is Low Temperature High Temperature
Coolant Returning Coolant Going
critical. If it malfunctions, the engine will to the Engine’s from the Engine
overheat, potentially causing severe damage. Water Pump Inlet to the Heat
Opening Exchanger
The cooling system is also particularly vul-
nerable. Plenty can go wrong and often does.
Sacrificial
In this chapter, you will learn about various Anode
types of cooling systems: freshwater cooling, (Zinc)
the common method used on pleasure craft;
keel cooling, which is mostly found on work-
boats; and intake-air aftercooling, a feature
used on all high-performance diesel engines.
Drain Plug
Topics such as engine cooling components,
expansion tanks, and engine overheating will
also be discussed.
It is important to clarify cooling system
terms. As often happens in industries or Cold Raw Warm Raw
Water In Water Out
trades, certain nomenclature will “stick” to a
part or a system even though, strictly speak- Fig. 3-1. Heat exchanger construction and action.
ing, it isn’t very accurate.
The term “heat exchanger” is a good FRESHWATER COOLING
example; it’s a catchall for many things. Freshwater cooling is a somewhat misleading
You probably wouldn’t think of your car’s description of how the system really works. It’s
radiator as a heat exchanger, but it is. On not fresh water that cools the engine, but raw
a boat, an engine’s oil cooler, aftercooler, water. Raw water is water from the ocean or a
intercooler, keel cooler, and freshwater (heat lake pumped into the boat with a raw-water
exchanger) cooler are all heat exchangers of pump, also called a seawater pump. The raw
one sort or another because they remove water passes through a strainer and an intake
excess heat from the engine and direct it hose and circulates through a heat exchanger
elsewhere. Therefore, throughout this chap- before it is pumped overboard, often through
ter, key terms will be defined to clarify mat- a water-cooled exhaust system (see Chapter 8),
ters, and where necessary an illustration will where it mixes with exhaust gas. The raw-
be included. Figure 3-1 shows how a basic water side of the system removes heat from
marine heat exchanger works. the fresh water, or closed-cooling, side.
38
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 39

The term “closed-cooling” describes what Remove Handle

from Seacock
is happening inside the engine block. The
coolant, usually an equal mixture of anti-
Heat Exchanger
freeze and distilled water, circulates through Cooled Marine
passages in the engine in a never-ending Engine

closed cycle. Closed-cooling and freshwater

cooling can be used interchangeably. The so-
called freshwater coolant is in fact a mixture Quarter-turn
Ball Valve
of fresh water and antifreeze. In a pinch you
could fill the block with fresh water and the
cooling system would still work, though you
Fig. 3-2. Remove the ball valve handle from the raw-water
wouldn’t want to leave it in the block for long. intake seacock to avoid accidental opening.
Apart from preventing the block from freez-
ing in cold climates, antifreeze inhibits rust
are self-priming, meaning they will lift water
and corrosion and enhances cooling, which is
a short distance and pull it into the pump.
why it’s used in freshwater cooling systems.
Note: When doing service work on freshwater
The heat exchanger is a vital component in
cooling systems or on any other system that uses
a freshwater cooling system. It facilitates the
quarter-turn ball valves, be sure to remove the
ability of raw water to remove heat from the
handle from the raw-water intake seacock so the
coolant circulating inside the engine. Heat
valve cannot be accidentally opened (Fig. 3-2).
exchangers are usually made of corrosion-
resistant copper-nickel alloy rather than KEEL COOLERS
straight copper tubing, and replaceable sacri- Although most pleasure boaters have never
ficial zincs are incorporated into the design heard of a keel cooling system, it is common
to further prevent galvanic corrosion. These on workboats. A keel cooling system routes
units can be mounted remotely or directly on the engine coolant through a loop of pipe
the engine. While a coolant recovery bottle is outside the hull below the waterline. The
often used with a heat exchanger, no supple- water the vessel travels through cools the cool-
mental expansion tank, other than the one ant circulating in the submerged pipe. Every
that came with the engine, is needed in a keel cooler must be connected to the engine
freshwater cooling system. See Fig. 1-6 for a through the hull, with either a single or double
simplified schematic illustration of a freshwa- opening. The double-stem (double opening)
ter cooling system. keel cooler is constructed of steel, aluminum,
The raw-water pump is also an important brass, or copper-nickel tubing. Careful design
part of a freshwater cooling system. Without is needed to ensure adequate heat transfer, to
it, the system would fail because the raw water minimize pumping losses inside the cooler, to
could not circulate through the heat exchanger. allow expansion and contraction as tempera-
The raw-water pump draws water into the tures change, and to minimize corrosion of the
system with a a rubber impeller; water flowing unit inside and out. For a schematic of a single-
inside lubricates it. Most raw-water pumps stem keel cooling system, see Figure 3-3.
40 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

An option for keel coolers, as shown in

Sight Glass for Checking Fig. 3-3, is a flow-bypass adjusting screw
the Coolant Level
incorporated into the manifold on top of the
through-hull fitting. This adjusting screw pro-
Engine
Expansion vides the option of recirculating coolant back
Tank to the inlet pipe on the water pump without
Marine Engine
sending it all out to the keel cooler. For large
cooling systems operating in cold waters,
adjusting the screw on the manifold will help
Valve the system get up to adequate temperature.
Up
Hull Manifold The opposite is true as well; the adjustment
Assembly
valve can be closed to provide more cooling
if it’s needed.
Single-Stem Keel Cooler KEEL COOLER SIZING
Diminished Flow
Well-designed cooling systems will have
Valve
Down enough capacity to cool the boat’s engines
worldwide, even in equatorial waters. There-
fore, boats operating in colder waters are fre-
quently going to have more cooling capacity
than is needed. Over the years and during the
Full Flow
course of repairs, as keel coolers are damaged
Fig. 3-3. Single-stem keel cooler with flow adjusting screw.
and replaced, skippers and boatowners operat-
ing in cold waters realize that their keel cool-
ers are often providing more cooling capacity
than is necessary, so they just order a slightly
smaller unit and save a few dollars. The best
way to repair the cooling system is to check
with the manufacturer of the equipment and
follow their guidelines.
KEEL COOLING SYSTEM VOLUME
AND THE RESULTING EXPANSION
Marine keel cooling systems have at least
twice the volume of a comparable truck
engine’s cooling system. This is important,
because unless the keel cooler is very efficient,
Fig. 3-4. A Murphy coolant level alarm switch is just visible the coolant can expand five percent in volume
on the bottom rim of this coolant level gauge. When as it warms up. Since engine manufacturers
the coolant level gets dangerously low, the switch
activates an alarm (propulsion engine) or shuts have no way of knowing the capacity of your
down the engine (if a generator). See also Chapter 7. keel cooler, they expect the person installing
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 41

CHRONIC ENGINE OVERHEATING plumbed to the larger keel cooler, and the
engine had been connected to the smaller
Ely’s 425 hp diesel engine had been periodi- keel cooler! The main engine had been oper-
cally overheating since the boat and engine ating for eight years with less than half of its
were brand-new. The engine had been rebuilt needed cooling capacity.
twice, and a huge amount of fishing time had
been wasted. In spite of the rebuilds, repeat-
edly overheating the engine finally caused it the engine to add a supplementary coolant
to seize up. Ely had taken it to several marine recovery tank when it is needed. Coolant
mechanics. Mechanics from the engine dealer recovery tanks add to the volume of the
had even flown in to the fishing grounds to engine-mounted expansion tank and provide
help. He had spent thousands of dollars on for this change in volume. As the engine cools
travel expenses for the several mechanics that after it is shut off, the cooling system will
had flown to his remote location in Alaska, not draw coolant back from the coolant recovery
to mention their repair charges. It wasn’t until tank; it does this by way of the pressure cap
the engine failed and he decided to try a dif- on the expansion tank.
ferent brand that the problem was found.
His original engine was a 425 hp high- AFTERCOOLERS
performance diesel. That is, to maximize the High-performance turbocharged diesel engines
power from the engine, it was not only heavily require additional cooling of the intake air. This
turbocharged, but it was also aftercooled. is done with aftercoolers, which are also known
High levels of turbocharging are used on as intercoolers. Figures 3-5 and 3-6 show the
high-performance diesel engines to sup-
ply more available oxygen in the cylinder, so Air from
Turbocharger Water-Cooled
that more fuel can be injected. This allows Heat Exchanger,
Through Which
the engine to produce more power. However, Intake Air Passes
in the process of highly pressurizing the air
entering the cylinders, the air is excessively
heated, which makes it expand, thus reduc-
ing volumetric efficiency. The solution to this
dilemma is provided by an aftercooler, which Jacketed
cools the air back down and makes it denser, Exhaust
Manifold
thus restoring its volumetric efficiency.
Ely’s boat had been built with two keel Aftercooler
coolers—a large one to cool the engine, and a for Cooling
smaller one for the aftercooler circuit. After the Intake Air
(also called
boat was hauled and cribbed up in the boat- an intercooler)
yard, it was easy to see what had caused the
years of overheating problems. When the boat
was built, the aftercooler had been mistakenly
Fig. 3-5. Marine engine aftercooler action.
42 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Hot Air Coming

from
Turbocharger
Cooled
Intake Air

Turbocharger

Belt-Driven
Raw-Water
Pump

Engine Aftercooler
(sometimes called intercooler)
Raw Water
Overboard
Hull

Sea Strainer
Screen

Fig. 3-6. A raw-water aftercooler.

air and raw-water flow through a heat-exchanger HEAT EXCHANGER AFTERCOOLER

aftercooler. Some workboats use fresh water in Another option for cooling engine intake air
the aftercooler and cool that water through a is to use a raw-water-cooled aftercooler. This
keel cooler. Note: An aftercooler that is too large type of unit (Fig. 3-6) can be engine-mounted
will overcool the engine intake air to the point that or mounted remotely.
it will hinder combustion of the fuel. An example
of higher volumetric efficiency is simply packing ENGINE COOLING COMPONENTS
more of the oxygen-bearing atmosphere into the Every engine cooling system has key compo-
cylinder when the intake valve opens. An example nents such as pumps, thermostats, and hoses,
of something that hinders volumetric efficiency to name just a few. Let’s take a look at some
is a plugged air filter. Aftercooling improves volu- of the more important ones to broaden your
metric efficiency by cooling the air that is going working knowledge of what makes a cooling
into the cylinders—thus making it denser—and system function properly.
it is a good and necessary practice. On keel-cooled
high-performance diesels, the aftercooler will Cooling System Hoses
often have its own separate keel cooler and pump Coolant hoses, though pretty basic in func-
for taking heat from the intake air and putting it tion, are nevertheless vital parts of the cool-
into the water beneath the boat. ing system. They must be protected from oil,
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 43

AFTERCOOLING ON LAND AND SEA

Marine engines are expensive, and to save

money boatowners, particularly owners of
workboats, sometimes install heavy-duty truck
engines in their boats. Air emissions regula-
tions in some nations prohibit such installa-
tions, but some boatowners do it anyway.
The incentive is easy to understand. A truck
engine, regardless of the manufacturer, costs
10 to 15 percent less than a marine engine with
the same horsepower. However, even putting Fig. 3-7. Kinked coolant hose.
aside the issue of exhaust emissions, there is
a problem with using a truck engine in a boat,
Coolant Pumps
one that fortunately can be easily overcome.
Most, if not all, heavy-duty truck engines are
The coolant pump (Fig. 3-8) serves an impor-
built with air-to-air aftercooling, which differs tant purpose. It moves hot coolant from the
drastically from the type used on boats. These engine to the heat exchanger, where the cool-
engines will not produce full power in a boat ant can shed its heat, and unlike a raw-water
unless the intake air is adequately cooled. pump, it is not self-priming. In fact, a cool-
Herein lies the difference: While marine ant pump is a submersible pump and must be
engines come with an engine-mounted after- submerged to work. When all is well with the
cooler, truck engines use a chassis-mounted system, the coolant pump moves hot cool-
air-to-air aftercooler placed ahead of the ant from inside the engine and the engine
truck’s radiator. The truck type of aftercooler
depends on a prodigious flow of air to cool the
intake air as the truck moves along the road.
The manufacturer of the truck supplies the
air-to-air aftercooler, not the engine manu-
facturer. Thus, if a boatowner ordered a 300 hp
truck engine for use in a boat, the engine
would come without the vitally important
aftercooler. The simple solution to the prob-
lem is to buy and install a raw-water-cooled Coolant
aftercooler. A truck engine equipped with one to Engine
will work just fine in a boat.

Coolant Coolant
from Heat
fuel, heat, and abrasion. They must also be Exchanger
installed so they are not stretched or kinked
such as the hose in Figure 3-7. Fig. 3-8. The inner workings of a coolant pump.
44 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

oil cooler, and circulates the coolant through boating applications the oil cooler’s purpose is
the heat exchanger and back to the engine. always to transfer heat away from the lube oil.
The coolant returns to the engine at a much Here’s how an oil cooler works. Thin-
lower temperature than it had before passing walled copper or stainless steel tubes (round
through the heat exchanger. or flattened in cross section) wind through
the oil cooler body, or core. In some engines
Oil Coolers the body contains the coolant and the tubes
The engine oil cooler (Fig. 3-9) is another contain the oil, and in other engines the
form of heat exchanger within the cooling opposite is true. Either way, the object is to
system. It is designed to take excess heat from facilitate heat transfer from the oil to the
the engine oil and dispose of it by transfer- coolant through the thin walls of the tubing.
ring the heat to the engine coolant. Oil cool- Whenever there is a leak in an oil cooler, the
ers are often used regardless of how the boat fluid flows from the high-pressure side of the
engine is cooled. oil cooler tubing to the low-pressure side.
The oil cooler is mounted on the side of
most diesel engines, and under the oil filter
Thermostats
on gasoline engines. While generally trouble-
When the engine is cold, the thermostat
free, sometimes the coolant passages within
(Fig. 3-10) closes to recirculate coolant inside
the oil cooler become plugged and the cooler
the engine. When the coolant reaches the
must be removed from the engine for clean-
thermostat’s rated temperature, the thermo-
ing. Normal servicing is usually done during
stat opens to send coolant out to the cooling
an engine rebuild, and consists of cleaning
loop. Thermostats are temperature-controlled
the water passages and replacing all O-rings
and gaskets.
Water Outlet
In extremely cold climates, in a truck or a
piece of heavy equipment, the engine oil cooler
is, at times, an oil warmer. If the engine is at
operating temperature and the oil pan hap-
pens to be cooled too much by the windchill,
Gasket
the cooling system transfers heat, by way of
the oil cooler, into the engine oil. However, in
Lube Oil Out Lube Oil In
Thermostat

Gasket
Coolant In Coolant Out

(Coolant Flow—Bold Arrows)

Oil Cooler
Housing

Fig. 3-9. Overview of oil cooling. Fig. 3-10. A typical thermostat.

 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 45

OIL COOLER LEAKS pressurize the other coolant opening to no

more than 20 psi. This test is illustrated in
The relative pressure of the two fluids becomes Figure 11-15, and pressure tests are dis-
important if the cooler fails and an internal cussed further in Chapter 16. If the oil cooler
leak develops between the oil side and the holds pressure, there must be some other way
coolant side. The pressure on both sides of that one fluid is invading the other. But if the
the cooler tubes is usually different, which oil cooler fails to hold pressure, it must be
means that oil or coolant will travel from one replaced.
side of the core to the other due to the pres-
sure difference. There is a case where the
pressures will nearly equal out, though, such coolant flow valves, and their job is to keep
as with a worn engine with low oil pressure the coolant in the ideal temperature range as
running at low idle speed with the coolant up determined by the engine manufacturer.
to full temperature and pressure. As the coolant nears its ideal tempera-
When the engine is operating at full speed, ture, the thermostat begins to open gradu-
the pressure on the oil side of the tubes is ally, thereby helping avoid abrupt changes of
much greater than the pressure on the cool-
temperature in the engine coolant. Abrupt
ant side. The pressure balance can go the
changes in coolant temperature stress the
other way, too, such as when an engine (at
operating temperature and coolant pres- engine castings. Of course, a thermostat that
sure) is turned off at the end of the day. The opens late or not at all will cause engine
oil pressure suddenly drops to zero, while the overheating.
cooling system still maintains the radiator Thermostats are easy to test. Heat some
cap’s rated pressure until the engine cools. water in a saucepan and place a meat ther-
This discussion isn’t important unless the mometer in it. Simply watch to see when the
oil cooler tubes begin to leak. If the pressure thermostat opens and note the temperature
on the oil side is higher when a leak develops when it does. Each thermostat has a tem-
in the core, then oil will travel across the leak perature rating stamped on it, in degrees
and into the cooling system. Under these con- Fahrenheit or Celsius. If the thermostat
ditions, opening the radiator cap will reveal doesn’t begin opening at its rated tempera-
oil in the coolant. If a leak develops after the ture, then it’s time to replace it.
engine is turned off, while the cooling system
pressure is higher, coolant will travel into the THE EXPANSION TANK
engine’s lubrication system and the oil pan. As coolant warms, it expands. For example, a
At this point, checking the engine lube oil cooling system holding 100 gallons of a water
level will show the oil level to be higher than and antifreeze mixture will expand roughly
normal. Pressure testing the oil cooler is your 5 percent, or 5 gallons, between cold and hot
next step. extremes.
To test an oil cooler, first plug one of the Keel coolers sometimes need more expan-
two coolant openings to the cooler and then sion tank capacity than the engine-mounted
expansion tank provides. The reason for this
46 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

is that the cooling system volume for many systems run higher coolant temperatures and
keel coolers is at least two or three times the will need larger expansion tanks.
volume of the cooling system of a truck that It is important to change coolant periodi-
happens to use the same engine. cally as suggested by the engine manufacturer
Marine engine manufacturers usually have and to add distilled water rather than tap
very little information about the types of ves- water for the 50–50 mix if possible. Using
sels in which their engines will be installed. distilled water will keep the mineral content
They send the engine-mounted tank that will low in the coolant and reduce the likelihood
accept the expansion of coolant up to a certain of problems developing over time.
volume. The manufacturer might include a It is vital to have a pressure cap (see
tank, for example, that will accept the expan- below) on the cooling system. The pressur-
sion (and contraction) of all keel coolers up ized system not only raises the boiling point
to 40 gallons of total system volume. Systems of the coolant, but it also prevents the coolant
with more volume will require a supplemen- from evaporating through the opening on the
tal expansion tank. expansion tank and precipitating minerals.
In older boats, the cooling systems, if not
properly serviced, will acquire a buildup of COOLANT RECOVERY BOTTLES
rust and precipitated dissolved solids (miner- Coolant recovery bottles are sometimes used
als). Some of this contamination will find its instead of supplemental expansion tanks.
way into the cylinder block and settle around There are several differences between supple-
the cylinders as shown in Figure 3-11. This mental expansion tanks and coolant recovery
buildup will eventually reduce keel cooler heat bottles. Unlike a supplemental expansion
transfer and result in far more expansion of tank, a recovery bottle has no make-up line
the coolant than will occur in an efficient cool- coming out the bottom and has only one
ing system. For this reason, inefficient cooling small line from the engine’s expansion tank
pressure cap that runs to the bottom of the
recovery bottle.
The recovery bottle cannot deaerate the
coolant in the upper parts of an engine as an
expansion tank can. Pressure caps are made
so they allow coolant to run into the recov-
ery bottle as the coolant expands. The pres-
sure cap also allows the vacuum, created as
the system cools down, to pull coolant from
the bottom of the recovery bottle and back
into the system. After the engine cools, you
will notice the level in the recovery bottle is
down—this is normal.
Unlike a supplemental expansion tank, the
Fig. 3-11. Contamination in the cylinder block. coolant recovery bottle can be mounted below
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 47

Face of Water-
WORK-AROUND SOLUTION Cooled Elbow
Outlet
Exhaust
Outlet

Failure of the Raw-Water Pump Fiberglass Raw-Water

During a dire emergency, when the raw- Pipe Ports
Rubber
water pump fails at sea, you might try using Flap
the bilge pump to circulate bilge water for Water-Cooled
limited engine cooling. Elbow
Rubber or Fiberglass
Mufflers Resist Corrosion
the top of the engine’s expansion tank. The
Marine
coolant recovery bottle is an elegant solution Stern Transmission
for many applications that just need a small
amount of additional room for expansion.
Fig. 3-13. A horizontal wet-exhaust system.
WATER-COOLED EXHAUST
A water-cooled exhaust system is more often
used with freshwater cooling systems than with liner from corrosion. For engines with dry
keel coolers. The water-cooled exhaust system liners, or no liners at all, conditioner is still
uses raw water flowing from the freshwater sys- important to limit corrosion between dissim-
tem’s heat exchanger to cool the engine’s exhaust ilar metals in the system. It’s a good idea to
gases (Fig. 3-12). This water is sprayed into the learn what your engine manufacturer suggests
stream of hot exhaust gases exiting each cylin- you use as a cooling system conditioner.
der, rapidly cooling these gases so that they may To neutralize acids in coolant that cause
safely leave the boat through a horizontal exhaust corrosion, chemicals are added to the con-
system. Horizontal exhaust systems usually exit ditioner formula. These additives keep the
through the stern as shown in Figure 3-13. coolant pH slightly alkaline. Conditioner can
be purchased in any quantity, and for the best
COOLING SYSTEM CONDITIONER results it is wise to use the manufacturer’s test
Diesel engines with wet cylinder liners must kit. Always test coolant before making any
have adequate cooling system conditioner in changes to the strength of the mixture.
the coolant to protect the outer surface of the Conditioner also comes in a spin-on car-
Raw-Water Into Raw-Water spray from
tridge that is plumbed to keep some coolant
Exhaust Pipe
Raw-Water
heat exchanger rapidly
cools the exhaust stream.
flowing through when the engine is running.
Cooled Exhaust You can tell when a conditioner cartridge is
used up by spinning it off and comparing its
weight to a new cartridge. A depleted car-
tridge will be much lighter than a new one.
ANTIFREEZE COOLANT
Because modern engines often have alumi-
Fig. 3-12. A water-cooled exhaust system. num components in the cooling system, it
48 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

WORK-AROUND SOLUTION raw-water pump and connect it to a 5-gallon

bucket as shown. Fill the bucket with pure,
Winterizing the Raw-Water Side undiluted antifreeze. (Use propylene glycol,
of a Freshwater-Cooled Engine which is nontoxic, rather than the highly toxic
The following method assumes that the ethylene glycol.) Start the engine and pump
coolant side of the system has adequate anti- the bucket dry before shutting off the engine.
freeze protection according to a hydrometer Refill the bucket and pump it dry one more
tester. Testers are available in any auto parts time. Finish by thoroughly inspecting the
store. engine and cooling system and removing all
Raw-water cooling systems can be tough drain plugs from the raw-water side of the
to thoroughly winterize because pockets of system. If possible, put a small, fan-driven
water sometimes remain in the system. If it electric heater under the engine cover. This
gets really cold, the water will freeze, dam- will help minimize condensation inside and
aging the system. Follow the engine manu- outside the engine.
facturer’s instructions whenever possible. If
such instructions are unclear or unavailable,
the following drawing will help.
is important to use coolant that is compat-
If the boat is in the water, begin by shutting
ible with aluminum. Coolant is also available
off the valve (seacock) below the sea strainer.
Caution: Again, always remove the valve han-
pre-mixed. The advantage of the pre-mixed
dle so that it cannot be bumped open acci- variety is that the water quality is better
dentally later on and sink the boat! for your engine than most local freshwater
sources. Use distilled water if at all possible
Coolant
Drawn into
Fresh Water-Cooled to reduce the buildup of minerals in the cool-
Engine
Engine and
Pumped
ing system.
Overboard
PRESSURE CAPS
Expansion
Tank The pressure cap’s main job is to cause the
coolant to boil at a temperature well above
212°F. This happens because the cap raises
Heat Exchanger
Coolant
the pressure in the cooling system and pre-
Belt-Driven
Overboard vents the formation of air bubbles that would
Raw-Water
Pump
otherwise cause small, localized hot spots,
which in time destroy parts of the cooling
Sea
Strainer system.
Secondly, pressure caps stop the evapora-
Fig. 3-14. Winterizing a freshwater-cooled system. tion of water and coolant. When water evap-
orates, make-up water must be continually
After closing the valve and removing the added. In time, hundreds of gallons of water
handle, remove the suction hose to the belt-driven evaporate in systems aboard large boats,
leaving behind the water’s dissolved solid
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 49

(mineral) content. High levels of dissolved that you are indeed tapped into the cooling
solids cause sludge to form in the cooling sys- system and not the lube oil or fuel system.
tem, blocking the small internal passages. Check the engine manual for clues on where
So, take care of the cap by visually inspect- to make the connection. (There is more detail
ing it periodically to be sure the neoprene on pressure tests in Chapter 16.)
washer on the bottom is in good shape. Once the system is pressurized, begin
following all external coolant lines to check
MIXING COOLANT
each joint. Sometimes it helps to turn off the
As previously mentioned, the best water to
engine room lights and examine each joint
mix with antifreeze is demineralized or dis-
with a bright flashlight. At this point, if no
tilled water. Cooling system conditioner must
leaks are obvious, it is time to see if coolant
also be added to this mixture. It is important
is going into the engine oil pan by way of the
to test the effectiveness of the conditioner and
engine oil cooler.
the freezing protection of the coolant after the
Loosen the oil pan drain plug a little and
engine has been warmed up and the coolant has
watch carefully. If coolant is leaking into
thoroughly circulated through the boat’s cool-
the oil, you will see coolant drip out of the
ing system. For small pleasure boats, one hour
plug threads before oil. If you just see oil,
of running at full temperature will be enough
check the transmission oil cooler next using
to mix the antifreeze and the conditioner with
the same approach. Another possibility is
any existing coolant in the system. For ves-
that coolant is going out the exhaust stack
sels with greater cooling system capacity, eight
with the exhaust gases. To check this, iso-
hours of running time may not be enough to
late the engine from the keel cooler or heat
mix the coolant and conditioner sufficiently
exchanger and pressurize the engine. If the
to get an accurate test result. In situations like
engine will not hold pressure, there is an
this, the levels must be retested until the same
internal leak. The possibilities for internal
reading is obtained twice in a row.
leaks include:
Avoid using more than fifty percent
because antifreeze is harder to pump than
water. 1. The aftercooler (intercooler), if so
equipped
TROUBLESHOOTING COOLANT 2. Cylinder liner coolant seals, if so
CONSUMPTION equipped
When the coolant level in an engine keeps 3. Faulty head gasket
going down it is time to find out where it is 4. A cracked cylinder head
going. First, check for water leaking to the out- 5. An internally cracked jacketed
side of the engine by pressurizing the cooling exhaust manifold
system to 15 to 20 psi. Find a pipe plug high 6. An internally cracked jacketed turbo-
in the cooling system and connect a pressure charger, if so equipped
source, such as a test pump or air compressor
hose, to it. Auto parts stores sell cooling sys- Another quick test for an engine sending
tem test pumps. Care must be taken to verify coolant out the stack is to remove the exhaust
50 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

FOR THE WORKBOAT

Coolant Consumption
In 1980 I was called to fly to Kotzebue, Alaska, where a 280-foot seismic survey vessel was anchored twelve
miles offshore; it had lost electrical power to its hydraulic steering system.
Arriving at the boat, I found that one of the two Cat generators (Unit A) had a bad engine, and the
other (Unit B) had a bad generator (electrical) end. Because flashlights were the only source of light in
the engine room, it was important to start the generator set with the bad engine and keep it going long
enough to let us remove the old generator from the good engine.
The problem with Unit A was that it had been severely overheated, and cooling water was flowing
from the cooling system into the engine’s oil pan nearly as fast as water could be added.
To keep it going temporarily, we made sure it had plenty of oil in the oil pan and filled the cooling
system with water. We instructed Eddy, the one-armed engineer, to continually add water to the cooling
system once the engine was running, and to open the drain valve on the bottom of the oil pan and let
the water flow out as fast as it was going in, as shown in the accompanying drawing.

2 Water flowing through severely 1 Water runs

cracked head and failed head through the
gasket into oil pan. engine and
drains out of
the pan at a
constant rate
to keep the
engine from
seizing.
5 Mixture of oil and water
4 Engine oil “floating” on that lubricated the engine
water passing through for two hours, while
the oil pan. running at 1800 rpm.

3 Thin layer of water

supporting the
Water Draining engine’s oil supply.
from Oil Pan

Fig. 3-15. Running with a severely cracked cylinder head.

Eddy succeeded in doing this for three hours while we removed the faulty generator end from the
good engine. We then shut off the bad engine and, by flashlight, starting at 2:00 a.m., removed its good
 MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS 51

generator end. As we were moving the 400-pound armature with a chain hoist, the boat pitched and one
of the two chains that held the armature slipped. The armature came hurtling across the engine room
at me and I dove to the left just in time. The man behind me didn’t see it coming and had his leg badly
crushed. He was taken to Kotzebue by an Air National Guard helicopter and then flown to Anchorage for
treatment.
By 6:00 a.m., we had the good generator installed on the good engine, and all was well while we
waited for parts to be flown in to repair the other engine and generator.

manifold and check the exhaust ports visually If you see such a temperature spike (it can
for any sign of rust. Rust in an exhaust port reach well above 210°F) on the temperature
is a sign of a coolant leak in the correspond- gauge, or if your engine suddenly stops, begin
ing cylinder. Beyond this, if no leak is found, assessing how much damage has been done. If
it is time to isolate the engine’s keel cooler or the engine has locked up while it was running,
heat exchanger from the engine for a pressure you know that the pistons have expanded due
test. to heat and lodged in the bores. Excessive
heat in the engine room and darkened paint
SEVERE ENGINE OVERHEATING on the outside of the engine are other indi-
When severe overheating occurs, it is often cations of severe overheating. Check coolant
due to lack of coolant, which impacts the cyl- and oil levels, and if you find both are normal,
inder head first. As heat increases, the pistons your engine may not have been damaged.
soon expand and actually get bigger than the However, you must track down what caused
bores through which they travel. Tremendous the overheating, be it a faulty raw-water or
friction and heat are then generated between coolant pump, an obstruction in the raw-
the pistons and the cylinder walls. This can water intake line, or some other cause.
cause the piston material to transfer (weld) Often, after an engine has cooled down
to the cylinder wall, and the piston becomes after overheating, it will start and run, some-
a brake that tries to stop the motion of the times surprisingly well. In a case like this,
crankshaft. If it gets hot enough, the engine cut open the oil filter and check the oil filter
will suddenly stop because the braking action media to learn if aluminum piston material
between the piston and the cylinder wall has (shards of metal called glitter, see Figure 11-11)
locked the crankshaft. is present in the lubricating oil. If the oil filter
If the piston seizes on the downstroke, the has aluminum in it, the piston damage is seri-
motion of the crankshaft will break both con- ous. If the oil filter has no aluminum in it,
necting rod bearings. If the piston seizes on the engine may be fine. The engine may be
the upstroke, it will stop the engine. As soon as equipped with cast-iron pistons, which will
the engine stops, any cooling benefit from the produce darker (magnetic) iron particles. To
water pump ceases, and there is usually a seri- further check the engine, pull a clean mag-
ous temperature spike in the engine, especially net through the filter media to check for the
in the cylinder head and exhaust manifold. presence of iron from the cylinder walls or
52 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

pistons, if the engine is equipped with iron so before coolant will accumulate in the pan.
pistons. When water is present, simply loosening the
When nothing is apparently wrong, per- oil pan drain plug will allow water to leak out
form an oil analysis to watch for wear metals first, making it easy to spot.
or antifreeze coolant in the oil. The second With very long use, liner seals can harden
problem that can occur after severe overheat- and shrink slightly, allowing coolant to leak.
ing is that the cylinder liner seals, if the engine This can happen without the engine ever
is so equipped, can begin to leak coolant into overheating. When the engine is severely
the crankcase. If this has happened, the cool- overheated, water-cooled exhaust manifolds,
ant and water mixture will go to the bottom cylinder heads, and even the cylinder block
of the oil pan. If the leak is small, the engine can crack, causing coolant leaks into the
may have to be left shut off for an hour or oil pan.
 CHAPTER 4
BELTS AND HOSES

If you consider the many systems on your and “throwing rubber,” as you can see by the
boat, you’ll see that rotation plays an impor- black material on the engine.
tant part in making things work. Belts affixed If information on proper belt tension isn’t
to raw-water pumps, alternators, and coolant available, push firmly on the belt with a force
pumps all spin and transfer power to these of ten to fifteen pounds and adjust the belt
components. From the viewpoint of manu- tension, usually by moving the alternator, to
facturers and boatbuilders, drive belts are allow 1/2 inch of belt deflection for every foot
attractive for their simplicity, low cost, and of length between pulleys. When it comes
convenience. Engine designers know that it to belts, it is obviously important to inspect
will cost more to build an engine with a gear- them regularly, and if you see any signs of
driven coolant pump than one that is belt- cracks, loss of pliability, or wear, replace them
driven. A disadvantage of the belt-driven immediately. Don’t wait for a belt to fail.
pump, though, is that it will need the belts
EXTRA BELTS
changed periodically.
Because marine engines on larger workboats
Hoses are another important part of a vast
often have front-mounted power-take-offs
array of boat systems. Hoses, or lines, carry
(PTOs) driven by crankshafts, it is necessary
fuel, oil, coolant, raw water, potable water, pro-
to remove the entire front PTO system to
pane gas, engine exhaust, and sewage. There
replace alternator and water pump belts. For
are many types, each with its specific applica-
this reason, it’s a good idea to tie in an extra
tion. Maintaining belts and hoses is one of the
set of belts any time the belts are changed or
most basic ways to avoid trouble on the water.
the PTO is serviced. Nylon cable ties work
It pays to know something about them.
well for tying in extra belts. To tie in an extra
belt when the pump is removed, simply route
WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR BELTS
the extra, unused belt where it will not inter-
Raw-water, coolant, and alternator belts live
fere with any moving equipment and attach
in the engine room, where heat is a concern.
it there with the cable ties.
High heat greatly reduces belt life. Too much
or too little belt tension is another area to SIDE LOADS
watch. Either extreme will harm the belts, Engine manufacturers specify the amount of
and overtightened belts will ruin water pump side load their engine’s crankshaft will safely
and alternator bearings. Be sure to tighten carry, and these guidelines must be followed,
V-belts as specified in the engine manual. as must those for the mechanical component
The belt shown in Figure 4-1 has been loose the belts are powering. By placing belt- or
53
54 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 4-1. Inspect your belts regularly for signs of wear and to monitor tension. The black deposits on this engine indicate that
this belt is loose, throwing rubber onto the engine. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

chain-driven loads on both sides of the crank- instructions in Figure 4-3 to make a tempo-
shaft pulley, you can get the driven elements rary repair with a Push-Loc hose or some
to oppose and partially cancel out one anoth- other material. This type of hose, when used
er’s side load effect on the crankshaft.
It is also important when engines are
mounted on flexible engine mounts to
Engine-
mount belt- and chain-driven loads on the driven
engine block, not the engine beds (Fig. 4-2). pump
mounted
Otherwise, as the engine moves on the above
mounts, belt and chain tension can get too the soft
mount.
slack or overly tight from the movement of the
boat and engine. Eventually, the belt will fail.
If you lose a belt on a water pump or alter- Fig. 4-2. Mounting engine-driven accessories on the block of
nator and you don’t have a spare, follow the an engine with flexible mounts.
 BELTS AND HOSES 55

Water Pump
and Pulley
STRIPPED CAM TIMING (COG) BELTS

Engine cam timing (cog) belts fail when the

belt gets old and three or four cogs in one
Push-Loc area of the belt “strip” or peel off. When this
Hose
happens the cam ceases to turn, and on some
Push-Loc engines will also bend valves, resulting in the
hose barb
need for a valve job. To learn if your broken tim-
ing belt has resulted in bent valves, remove the
valve cover and notice if there are large gaps
Remove the old belt fragments and run the between some of the valve tips and their corre-
Push-Loc hose around the pulleys; cut it to the sponding rocker arms, but not on others. Large
proper length and insert the double hose barb. gaps indicate those valves that are bent.
Fig. 4-3. A Push-Loc hose, duct tape, or even a nylon
If, however, your engine has no bent valves,
stocking will temporarily replace a V-belt. replace the timing belt according to the
engine maker’s directions.
The cam drive cog belts that power most
with a Push-Loc barbed fitting, requires no overhead cams in diesel and gasoline engines
hose clamps. Note: Due to resistance to turn- should be replaced after 1,500 hours of use. If
ing, it is difficult to drive an alternator with a your belt snaps before you can replace it and you
Push-Loc hose. If the hose slips on the pulley, in can’t get a new one, you can use the technique
spite of being well tensioned, try driving only the in the illustration to get the engine started.
water pump. (You can get home without elec- To get the engine going again without a new
cam belt, begin by removing the failed belt.
tronics but not with an overheated engine.)
Next, cut right down the center of the belt, all
the way around the belt until you have made
REPLACING POLY V-BELTS two belts from the one.

A poly V-belt is a wide, flat belt that has sev-

stripped area
eral small V ribs on the drive side of the belt. of belt
Now install the first belt.
These are often found on boats and will even-
tually require replacement. To do so, make a Then put on the second belt with the
stripped cogs several cogs away
diagram before removing a poly serpentine from each failed section, and both
failed sections on the slack side of
V-belt so that you can put it back on with the crankshaft cogs.

the same routing. Never cut the old belt off When the engine starts, don’t turn it
off until you arrive at your destination.
to remove it; save it in case the new one is the
wrong size.
FUEL HOSES AND AIR IN THE FUEL fuel transfer pump and the injection pump.
The presence of air in the fuel reduces engine Caterpillar sells a special sight-glass kit that
power and can cause hard starting. To check will stand considerable pressure, but verify
for air entering the fuel due to a suction leak, that it will stand the level of pressure your
put a sight glass in-line between the engine’s transfer pump produces before using it.
56 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Start the engine and watch for air bubbles. OIL COOLER FLOW DIRECTION WHEN
The slightest amount of visible air coming CHANGING HOSES
in with the fuel indicates at least a 5 percent When changing oil cooler hoses, keep the oil
power loss! More bubbles mean more power flowing through the cooler in the same direc-
loss. To eliminate the air, start working back- tion (Fig. 4-6) as it was before the hose change.
ward from the engine and tighten all fittings. The oil flow direction is important because
If needed, reseal them with a sparing applica- contamination and debris will sometimes get
tion of pipe sealant. Tighten the stem pack- caught on the upstream side of a cooler. If the
ing on all valves in the system. These valve flow direction is suddenly changed, contami-
stem packings can be a source of air entering nants will be released directly into the trans-
the fuel system too. As you go along, watch mission, quite likely resulting in damage. Note:
for collapsed, chafed, or damaged fuel hoses This also goes for the hoses on engines with remote,
as well. bulkhead-mounted oil filters. Accidentally revers-
When replacing hoses, be sure to pur- ing oil flow direction through a remote oil filter
chase only those that are U.S. Coast Guard– will eventually reduce engine lubrication.
approved. Hydraulic hoses can have pipe fittings
crimped to both ends, or they can have any com-
TRANSMISSION HOSES
bination of pipe threads crimped to one end and
Beware of a suction leak that allows the trans-
a straight threaded coupling on the other end.
mission oil pump to draw air with the oil
(Fig. 4-5). Aerated oil won’t provide proper WET EXHAUST SYSTEM HOSES
lubrication. Suction leaks occur when the The exhaust pipe for horizontally positioned
suction hose to the pump gets hard (difficult wet exhaust systems is usually made of fiber-
to bend). When this happens, replace it. glass. The small amount of expansion in a wet
exhaust system is absorbed by the hoses that
connect the parts of the system together.
Periodically check the inside of the wet
Air Enters exhaust elbow where the exhaust hose is
Pump Here

Oil Oil Pressure

Flow Line to Cooler
Engine
Air Enters Suction Transmission
Side of Pump Pump Water Pump

Oil Cooler
Oil Level Oil Pump
Transmission
Suction Hose

Oil
Pump
Cool Oil Back
to Transmission Keel Cooler Hoses

Fig. 4-5. Suction hose leaks will draw air into the oil flow
and kill your transmission. Fig. 4-6. Flow of transmission oil cooler.
 BELTS AND HOSES 57

Fig. 4-7. Check the wet exhaust elbow for coking buildup. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

attached for signs of coking (carbon). Coking rubber flap on the outside that will close if a
occurs on some engines because the exhaust large wave hits the transom. The flap prevents
gases get cold so quickly that the hydrocarbon water from entering the exhaust system from
residue in the gases can solidify and build up the wrong direction, possibly resulting in the
inside the elbow. introduction of water into the engine. When
Installed in-line with the wet exhaust sys- exhaust cooling water gets into the engine, it
tem is a silencer (muffler) that is either fiber- will rust the cylinders and cause a hydraulic
glass or a rubber-like compound. The entire lock.
exhaust system must angled downward, All wet exhaust systems must be moni-
toward the stern, where the exhaust exits. tored for hot spots during operation. Hot
This allows water inside the exhaust pipe to spots will occur if water flow stops. The entire
flow, with the exhaust gases, out of the boat. system must be well supported on both small
Be sure to check your engine’s installation and large boats. Sagging hoses can restrict
guide to verify that the installation is correct. exhaust flow and cause back-pressure. On
The through-the-stern fitting should have a larger boats, crew may actually step on hoses
58 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

and other parts of the system as they main-

tain the boat. Cuts

COOLANT HOSES
If your conventional coolant hoses (the black
ones) seem to age, dry out, and fail prematurely,
consider upgrading them to silicone hoses. In
the long run you’ll save money, and don’t for-
get the safety implications if a coolant hose
bursts when the boat is in a close-quarters
maneuver or near rocks or other hazards.
Heat and the effects of galvanic corrosion,
the result of electrochemical action, cause
many hose failures. The damage usually hap-
pens right at the connecting point between
the hose and the metal pipes in the system,
such as the water pump inlet pipe.
Fig. 4-8. Too much clamping force cut the inside of this
Consider this interesting scenario: The silicone rubber hose. (Courtesy MER Equipment,
pump inlet pipe becomes an anode, the hose Seattle, Washington)
becomes a cathode, and the coolant circulat- hoses, use constant-tension clamps to avoid
ing inside the hose becomes an electrolyte overclamping.
because of higher-than-normal acidity. What Non-reinforced suction hoses can col-
you have is a form of battery, or, more prop- lapse and totally stop circulation of the cool-
erly termed, a galvanic cell generating low ant when they are used on the suction side of
voltage that will shorten the life of the hose. the coolant pump. Note: Avoid overclamping
To combat such problems it is important all hoses, especially silicone hoses (Fig. 4-8), to
to keep enough conditioner in the coolant to eliminate cutting the inside of the hose.
prevent the coolant from becoming acidic.
Hose manufacturers have also developed PREFORMED HOSES
chemical additives for their rubber com- There are times when nothing but a preformed
pounds that resist electrochemical degrada- hose can bend tightly enough to connect
tion (ECD). These additives enable hoses to components at extreme angles. Preformed
carry the ECR rating, which stands for elec- hoses aren’t always available in remote com-
trochemical resistant. munities. If you’re stuck, visit an auto parts
Another way around such hose problems store—you may find what you’re looking for
as mentioned above is to use silicone rubber hanging on a wall (Figure 4-9).
hoses. While expensive and not as resistant If you get lucky and the auto parts store
to abrasion as conventional hoses, silicone carries preformed hose, carefully examine the
hoses don’t harden over time and are not inventory for any hoses that match the bend
affected by ECD. When clamping silicone you need; you can always cut it to make it fit.
 BELTS AND HOSES 59

However, care must be taken to avoid kink-

ing a hose when installing it; otherwise, flow
restrictions will occur. As previously men-
tioned, hoses must be protected from high
heat.
Many boats have hoses that are nearly
impossible to access. Removing an old hose is
the easy part, because it can be cut off.
When new hoses are tough to install, use
oil or dish soap as a lubricant to help the
hose slide into place. If the hose just can’t be
reached, fashion a hook from an old screw-
driver and pull it into place (Fig. 4-10).
Fig. 4-9. Cut sections from preformed hoses to get the right
bend.

Fig. 4-10. Fashion a hook from an old screwdriver to pull a hose into a difficult place. (Courtesy Thomas Wischer)
 CHAPTER 5
FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS

The importance of avoiding contamination DIESEL ENGINES

of fuel and lube oil with water, dirt, and otherClosely fit mechanical parts in a diesel fuel sys-
substances cannot be emphasized enough. tem depend on the lubricity of the fuel and will
Water in diesel fuel will create havoc, and it be harmed by the passage of water through the
doesn’t do a gasoline engine any good either. system if dispersant additives are used. Note:
Water or coolant in oil degrades its lubrica- Water dispersants must not be used in diesel fuel!
tion ability, counteracting its benefits. These If there is a low drain point in the tank, water
are just two examples of what can happen must be drained from there. If there isn’t a
when the vital liquids of your boat’s engine good drain system, the choices come down to
and transmission are compromised. Let’s take either processing the fuel with a filter buggy or
a close look at some of the problems you may removing the tank for cleaning.
encounter, and how good filtration and con- A filter buggy (Fig. 5-1) is a two-wheeled
stant vigilance will help you avoid unpleasant cart with an electric pump and two large Racor
and potentially costly surprises. fuel-water separator-type filters plumbed after
a small pre-filter. The suction hose from the
pump is connected directly to the fuel tank’s
WATER IN THE FUEL outlet fitting, and the hose that carries the
Whether you have a gasoline or a diesel filtered and dewatered fuel is routed to
engine, the most common type of fuel con- the boat’s fuel fill. To prevent fuel spills, this
tamination is fresh water. It can get into fuel hose is tied in place, and the buggy’s pump is
through condensation in the fuel tank or rain turned on.
entering tank vents and the fuel fill.
WATER OR COOLANT IN THE
GASOLINE ENGINES ENGINE OIL
Dealing with water in the fuel of a gasoline When water or coolant leaks into the engine
engine is much easier than it is with a diesel. crankcase, it migrates to the bottom of the
With a gasoline engine, all you have to do is oil pan because it is heavier than the engine’s
drain the tank and replace the fuel. Water can lube oil. It will stay on the bottom until the
go through the gasoline fuel system with little engine is started. When the engine is run-
harm, though it’s important to get most of ning, water is pulled from the bottom of the
the water out. Pour a water-dispersing addi- pan into the engine oil pump. From there it
tive into the tank to remove the final residue is sent throughout the engine lubricating oil
of water. system.

60
 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 61

Fig. 5-1. A filter buggy removes water from fuel.

Note: Engines equipped with a good partial- lube oil passages in the engine on both the
flow oil filter, like the COMO filter, manufactured suction and pressure side of the oil pump
in Janesville, Wisconsin, can temporarily tolerate a (Fig. 5-5).
small amount of antifreeze in the oil. The COMO Plugged oil passages result in a loss of lubri-
filter element is made of cellulose, which absorbs and cating oil to the entire engine. This condition
holds water (coolant) while trapping wear-causing is first revealed at the crankshaft (Fig. 5-6).
particles. Partial-flow oil filters are discussed later Some engine manufacturers suggest flush-
in this chapter. ing the engine with a special compound to
Unless coolant is removed from the oil, remove the coolant residue, or completely
the oil and coolant emulsify into an oily dismantling the engine for piece-by-piece
black substance. That is worse than water cleaning. Others recommend changing the
alone mixing with the oil, because the result- oil twice in a short period of time and then
ing sludge (Fig. 5-4) is so thick it plugs the sampling the oil. Let’s look at the options.
62 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

WORK-AROUND SOLUTION

Dealing with Water in Fuel

In the accompanying photo, boatowner
Thomas Wischer of Kodiak, Alaska, moni-
tors progress after the two fuel lines were
connected to his 26-foot Volvo-Penta diesel-
powered Olympic.

Fig. 5-3. Cutting a deck open to remove a fuel tank.

tank was pressure-washed and air-dried,

we “flanged” the piece of deck that had been
cut out. Aluminum flat bar and angle were
used here, thereby turning it into a removable
hatch.
Next, both the fill and vent hoses were
replaced with U.S. Coast Guard–approved hose.
Fig. 5-2. The filter buggy in action.
The clean tank was put back in place, and
aluminum angles were fitted, full length to
In this case, we were drawing the fuel from
the tank bay, to help support the hatch.
the rear of the tank, and we ran the filter
Finally, the hatch was installed using 3M
buggy until the fuel appeared to be clean. As
4200 quick-drying sealant. In addition to this,
a precaution, we jacked up the tongue of the
we drilled and screwed the hatch flanges to the
boat trailer to make any remaining water run
deck.
to the back of the tank, where the filter buggy
The last step was to replace all filters and
could treat it. Jacking up the trailer helped
drain all fuel lines between the fuel tank
the filter buggy pick up more water.
and the engine before the sea trial, which
However, on two subsequent sea trials
was successful. Just to be sure there would
the water just kept coming. We realized that
be no unexpected water coming into the fuel
the fuel tank baffles were trapping water,
through the filler neck, we installed a new
and we were forced to cut the deck to allow
O-ring seal on the plug.
removal of the tank.
Angle cuts were made so that the piece
removed would be self-aligning when it was
replaced. The 83-gallon tank had to be pumped Picture for a moment the instant when the
out to allow its removal. first drop of antifreeze leaks into the engine
The tank’s bay was then thoroughly cleaned oil. This first drop activates the engine failure
to remove any debris that might puncture clock. There is no way that the engine opera-
the tank when it was reinstalled. After the tor can immediately discern from the engine’s
performance, sound, or appearance that coolant
 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 63

Fig. 5-4. An example of sludge created by antifreeze leaking into crankcase oil.

is leaking into the oil. While there is now an down a steep mountainside. Two things will
engine failure in progress, the engine still per- happen: (1) the failure will gather momen-
forms well. tum, and (2) it will become increasingly
Unless someone intervenes, the failure noticeable as it proceeds. The best approach
will proceed as if it were a large stone rolling for stopping the large (and soon to be very
destructive) stone from rolling down the
mountain is to stop its movement while it
can be stopped—that is, before it gathers
momentum.
This brings us to several ways of deal-
ing with antifreeze leaks into the engine oil,
starting with the ideal and working down the
list to the least desirable outcome:
1. If the operator is diligent about regularly
checking oil and coolant levels and notices
that the system is losing coolant, engine
damage can be avoided. Then, by following
up with pressure testing, the source of cool-
ant leaking into the oil can be found and
Fig. 5-5. A partially plugged oil pump suction pipe. repaired.
64 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 5-6. Congealed oil and coolant can block an oil supply. This engine is upside down with its crankshaft removed, and the
screwdriver has just been withdrawn from the crankshaft oil supply port that is just beneath the screwdriver tip.
Coolant got into the oil in this engine, turning the oil to sludge.

In this ideal situation, after the leak is

stopped, all that is needed is to bring the
engine up to full operating temperature and
change the engine oil. This must be done
twice, two hours apart. Following up by send-
ing an oil sample to a lab should then verify
that the engine is OK.
2. The coolant leaking into the oil pan begins
to congeal the oil (Fig. 5-7). If it is caught
before the engine’s internal oil passages are
plugged, you can use butyl cellosolve as sug-
gested by the engine manufacturer. Butyl cel-
losolve is a harsh, toxic chemical compound Fig. 5-7. A plugged outlet tube from an oil pump.
 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 65

FLUSHING A CRANKCASE
WITH BUTYL CELLOSOLVE

While it is a judgment call, a marine mechanic

may sometimes opt to try flushing the engine
crankcase with the strong (and toxic) sol-
vent butyl cellosolve. This is done by mixing
20 percent of the solvent (by normal lube oil
volume) with 80 percent engine oil. Next the
engine must be idled at 1,000 rpm until it
reaches operating temperature. Finally, the
engine oil and filters must be changed. The
Fig. 5-8. Congealed oil in an oil pump is clearly visible in this filters that are taken out with the oil change
photo of the pump’s endcap. must be cut open for inspection to determine
if engine damage has occurred, as revealed
that is sometimes used to clean coolant from by shards of aluminum or iron. Sample the oil
the engine lubricating system after the source again after twenty hours of running time.
of a leak is located and repaired. Use of butyl
cellosolve is not advised for weekend boat-
engine. Many air filters may be gently washed
ers, but this treatment is used by professional
from the inside out with warm soapy water
diesel mechanics (see sidebar).
and then rinsed in the same direction. Check
3. When the oil congeals, however, no
with the filter manufacturer first, though, to
amount of clean oil or butyl cellosolve can
be sure your air filters are washable. Both dis-
reach the extremities of the system to dis-
posable and cleanable air filters are available.
solve the sludge. Therefore, the engine must
Most engine air filters made of paper may
be taken apart (Fig. 5-8) and meticulously
be gently washed twice in mild, warm deter-
cleaned. Every plug must be removed from
gent from the inside out. Never blow a filter
the lube oil system, and all lube oil passages
clean with compressed air, because the risk of
must be brushed and cleaned. If the engine
tearing the paper is too great. After cleaning,
continues to run while lacking lubrication, it
shine a light through the filter media (paper)
will self-destruct.
and inspect for tears or cracks. There can be a
In the final seconds of an engine failure,
lot of dust over lakes, and streams, as well as the
the engine damage, cost of repairs, length
ocean. Monitor the condition of your air filters.
of downtime, and potential danger to those
Besides being extremely hard on the boat’s
nearby all rapidly increase.
occupants, nothing is worse for an air filter
AIR-INTAKE CONTAMINATION than an exhaust leak in the boat’s engine
When all parts of the intake air plumbing room. After a filter is plugged, the restriction
system are in good condition, regular air can get high enough to pull the filter media
filter maintenance will keep dust out of the into the turbocharger!
66 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

AIR-INTAKE PLUMBING
There is an easy way to test for leaks in the AIR FILTERS ARE CHEAP
intake air system plumbing between the air
filter and the turbocharger. Begin by start- It took a day to get to Prudhoe Bay from
ing the engine and letting it idle, then lightly Anchorage with 450 pounds of tools and
spray all the joints in the air plumbing with engine parts, and upon arriving I asked to
starting fluid and see if the engine speed sud- look at a Caterpillar 3306 engine that the
denly changes. Engine speed will fluctuate if owner wanted rebuilt.
the starting fluid enters the engine through a The oil level was slightly above the full
mark, and it did drip too freely from the end
leak. This indicates a leak that will allow dust
of the dipstick, even in the cold. I took this
to get into the cylinders and damage them.
to indicate possible dilution of the crankcase
AIR FILTERS oil with fuel. The coolant level was just right.
Always check for an air filter restriction in When I started the engine, it billowed black
response to a low engine power complaint. smoke even at idle. Sure enough, the engine’s
Most air-intake systems have a filter restric- power output was very low.
An inspection of the engine showed no big
tion indicator plumbed into the system. Air
oil leaks and no burned or darkened paint, a
filter vacuum gauges can be installed in the
sign of severe overheating. The hour meter
instrument panel and will provide an early showed a low number of hours for a rebuild,
warning of air filter plugging. Black smoke is but I didn’t put too much stock in it, thinking
a dead giveaway for a restricted air filter. It can that a previous hour meter may have failed
also indicate an internally collapsed muffler. and been replaced. Then I noticed that the air
FUEL AND CONTAMINANTS filter restriction indicator device was in the
IN THE OIL red, an indication of a restriction. Pulling the
lid off the air cleaner, I found an air filter that
Engine oil is thinned when fuel leaks into the
was caked and plugged with dust! Replac-
crankcase, thereby diminishing its lubrication
ing the air filter cured all problems on this
qualities. Checking the oil level and quickly engine, including the fuel dilution.
noticing a rising oil level will help you spot this
problem before damage is done. Consult the
engine manual for fuel dilution sources for each CONTAMINATION OF NEW OIL
engine. The following general list will be helpful: There is plenty of opportunity for contami-
nation of new engine oil on most vessels.
1. plugged air filters This is especially true when a vessel is large
2. fuel transfer pump leaks enough to have a bulk (built into the boat)
3. leaks on the injection pump drive oil storage tank. These tanks are subject to
shaft seal the same problems that affect marine fuel
4. leaking fuel lines inside the crankcase tanks, such as condensation of water and the
collection of dust, rust scale, and algae in the
Periodic oil sampling will verify that the bottom. In addition to this, there is nothing
problem has been found and cured. worse than a dirty oil bucket being used to
 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 67

transfer oil from an oil spigot on the tank to filter rated at 10 microns is finer and will
the engine! remove smaller particles than a coarser
After an oil tank is opened and cleaned 20-micron filter. Along with micron ratings,
thoroughly, all it takes to keep these problems filters are rated as either nominal or abso-
under control is to drain condensed water from lute. A filter rated at 20 microns nominal
the low part of the tank. If there is no drain at will remove many of the 21-micron par-
the bottom, it’s important to install one. ticles that reach the filter, but not all of
A second preventive measure involves them. Nominal ratings on filters mean they
installing an oil filter on the outlet of the lube are rated at the best performance that could
oil tank to filter all new oil that is going into ever be hoped for. An absolute rating means
the engine. It can save time in the long run to that a 20-micron filter will pass no particles
install a filter base that will accept the same larger than 20 microns.
spin-on oil filter that the engine uses. Finish Those manufacturers that make high-quality
this upgrade by installing a brass gate valve on filters always advertise what kind of filter
the end of the oil filler hose. This will enhance media they are using as a selling point. Each
safety and prevent an accidental spill if the manufacturer has brochures explaining its
hose falls on the engine room floor. Unlike a filters’ construction. Oxygen takes a toll on
ball valve, a brass gate valve takes more than paper filters, and inexpensive ones degrade
an accidental bump to open. Often, the boat’s quickly. Better-quality filters last longer.
engineer will put a pipe cap on the end of the
tube coming from the gate valve to stop air- ENGINE OIL FILTERS
borne contamination from entering the filler Besides being made of good materials, a good
tube. engine oil filter will hold more soot than an
What can you do to protect your engine if inferior one. Soot is incompletely burned fuel
your boat is too small to have a lube oil reser- that gets past the piston rings and ends up in
voir? The answer is as simple as keeping any the crankcase. Diesel engines produce more
funnels or pouring buckets spotlessly clean, soot when they are in poor condition, are idled
and storing them in clean plastic bags. for too long, or are run with insufficient load.
The two major types of filters (Fig. 5-9)
FILTER INVENTORY are (1) full-flow and (2) partial-flow (bypass).
Every boatowner has several filters to keep The former filters all the oil that comes to it
track of. Care must be taken to ensure proper until it reaches its maximum capacity to hold
storage, ratings, filter type, filter quality, and soot, at which point a bypass valve opens and
change intervals. Since a filter is a device that the engine runs with unfiltered oil. Proper oil
removes unwanted particles from a fluid, change intervals prevent this from happen-
proper maintenance is critical. Abrasive par- ing. Filling a new full-flow filter with oil prior
ticles in the air, oil, and fuel cause damage and to installation is a good move.
actually generate more particles. Partial-flow filters are much less com-
All filter ratings are measured in microns, mon but will extend engine life when used to
one micron being a millionth of a meter. A assist full-flow filters. A partial-flow filter is
68 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

if only slightly. There is a qualifier for this

statement, though: The partial-flow filter
From oil To engine
pump bearings must pass enough oil to reduce the oil pres-
Pressure inside bypass
Full oil flow sure gauge reading by 2 or 3 psi, yet main-
filter is reduced by Partial
orifice oil flow tain sufficient oil pressure when the engine
back to Full-flow

Bypass
oil pan oil filter is at operating temperature. If you install
oil filter a partial-fill filter of proper size, the engine
will waste less fuel and power pressurizing
Routing of oil flow with both
lube oil.
full-flow and bypass oil filters. Partial-flow filters work well on transmis-
sions and hydraulic systems as well as engines.
Fig. 5-9. Full-flow and partial-flow oil filters. The filter media inside the housing is tightly
wound cellulose paper. Cellulose has a strong
finer—i.e., it has a lower micron rating than a affinity for water, and the unit will hold a con-
full-flow filter—and is teed-in to the main oil siderable amount of it while the cellulose fibers
gallery. Generally, a partial-flow filter only fil- allow oil to slowly pass through and return to
ters one quart in ten, but the oil it does filter is the sump.
rendered very clean. The oil from a bypass filter Note: When upgrading a system by install-
goes back to the oil pan and not directly to the ing a partial-flow filter, like the COMO filter,
engine’s bearings. use a wet- or dry-vacuum cleaner to change
Use of a partial-flow oil filter can also save the drain plug without completely draining the
fuel, enhance horsepower, or both—even hydraulic reservoir (Fig. 5-11). With the new,

Oil Fill Cap with Integral Vent Partial-Flow

(Bypass) Filter
Oil Level Dipstick

Filtered Return Line

Return Oil Filter Oil Flow

with Isolation Valves Direction Return
Orifice Oil

Electric
Motor Pressure
Oil
Gear
Pump

Suction Filter
Hydraulic
Pressure Relief Valve Control Valve
Return to Tank Drain

Fig. 5-10. A partial-flow filter installed on a workboat hydraulic system.

 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 69

Filling a new diesel fuel filter before instal-

lation is a bad move, because unfiltered fuel
flows to the filtered side. This gives the unfil-
tered fuel a straight shot into the fuel injec-
Nearly Full tion system.
Fluid Tank
MARINE TRANSMISSION FILTERS
Wet or Dry
Older transmissions have a cartridge-style
Vacuum filter, while newer gears use spin-on filters.
Cleaner
Regular service of either type is important.
Most transmissions also have a screen on the
suction side of the pump. Metal particles in
Remove the Drain Plug from a Full Hydraulic
Oil or Fuel Tank Without Losing the Fluid the suction screen filter indicate a failure of
the clutch discs or bearings in the transmission.
Fig. 5-11. Use of a wet- or dry-vacuum cleaner to keep fluid Small transmissions often have no filter
in a reservoir while a drain plug is removed. This
trick can be used on engines, transmissions, and and are fitted only with a suction screen to
hydraulic tanks. monitor and clean. Very small transmissions,
such as those on diesels under 40 hp, may not
predrilled fitting standing by, pull a vacuum on even have a screen.
the tank, switch plugs, and then connect the line
FILTER INSPECTION
to the bottom of the tank.
Most used oil filters can be inspected after
FUEL FILTERS they are drained. Filters can be inspected
Coalescing fuel-water separators are available periodically for safety’s sake or especially if a
in several micron sizes and will remove water new noise develops in a piece of equipment.
from fuel. Many vessels use a 10-micron fuel- It’s easy to cut open a filter to see how your
water separator, which can be overwhelmed if equipment is functioning and whether or not
a big slug of water hits it. Dark-colored mate- metal fragments are appearing due to a fail-
rial in the transparent filter bowl indicates ure. Clamp the threaded end of the filter into
an algae problem. Algae cannot live without a vise and cut the threaded end from the fil-
water, so the presence of algae is a danger sig- ter with a hacksaw. Remove the inner pleated
nal suggesting that there is more water com- filter media and cut out a 2-inch section (see
ing into the tank than condensation alone also Fig. 10-20). Cutting several pleats out,
could account for. opposite the end you opened, is also a good
Several companies are now making fuel idea. There may be iron particles present
and hydraulic filters that absorb water and from when the filter was cut open. Snap-on
stop the flow when the filter’s water-absorb- Tools makes a filter cutter that will open a
ing capacity is reached. They have a cellulose filter without creating any metal particles.
core that will absorb water but not fuel. As Squeeze the test section in a vise to remove
the core absorbs water, it swells until it finally all the oil, then open the pleats for inspec-
stops the flow through the filter. tion. Aluminum particles are easy to spot.
70 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

In an engine, aluminum particles mean pis- and aluminum from pistons. Also, by doing
ton damage. These show up in the filter after engine oil analysis and watching soot levels
severe overheating. Iron particles are not as in the report, it is possible to see if filters are
easy to spot, but they can be picked up with being changed too seldom or too often.
a clean magnet. Black soot particles don’t 3. The Exxon Mobil Viscosity tester: This
always indicate damage but may mean that is a clever plastic device with two grooves on
oil and filters need to be changed more often. the upper surface, allowing users to compare
the change in viscosity between new oil and
DON’T WASTE OIL AND FILTER CHANGES oil that is about to be changed. When soot
Because equipment manufacturers have no levels in engine oil get too high, it increases
control over the conditions under which their the oil’s viscosity, and it is time for an oil
units are used, they often specify very con- change, regardless of how few or how many
servative oil and filter change intervals. Your hours have passed since the last one. (See
application may not be as severe as the ones Figure 5-12.)
envisioned when the intervals were specified. To use the portable tester shown, begin by
You may be wasting oil and filter changes. laying it flat and filling each of the two reser-
There are three ways to find the best change voirs. One is to be filled with oil from your
interval for your equipment. While these engine and the other with new oil that is the
checks are often used for engines, they have same brand, weight, and temperature as the
application to equipment such as marine old oil.
transmissions as well. Next tip the tester up on its beveled end
1. Pressure differential gauges: The effi- and watch the two oils race to the bottom.
ciency of many filters improves dramatically If the old oil is a lot slower than the new,
just before the media clogs because larger par- Dual reservoirs
ticles plug the bigger holes in the media that
smaller particles could have gone through. As
a filter begins to clog, it will restrict the flow
of oil or it will bypass, depending on how it is
constructed. Many filter manufacturers pro-
vide pressure gauges on the inlet and outlet
Used oil
ports of the filter housing that allow the user
to see when the filter is beginning to clog. For New oil of same
example, if the inlet gauge indicates 50 psi brand, weight, and
temperature
and the outlet gauge says 46 psi, it is apparent
that the filter is at the end of its useful life.
2. Oil analysis: Testing used oil lets boat-
owners see engine, transmission, and hydrau-
lic system failures coming. For most diesel
Fig. 5-12. A portable viscosity tester. Exxon Mobil makes one,
engines, the most important wear metals or you can make one with a router and a piece of
to watch for are iron from cylinder liners wood.
 FUEL, LUBE OIL, AND FILTRATION SYSTEMS 71

there is probably soot in the oil. To correct Some engine manufacturers suggest a
this, shorten the oil and filter change interval specific torque for tightening the filter, while
by fifty hours and eliminate all idling below others suggest tightening the filter three
1,000 rpm. fourths to one complete turn after the filter
If the old and new oil travel at the same seal makes contact with the base.
speed, lengthen the oil and filter change inter- With longer oil change intervals, ease of
val by fifty hours and retest. pumping, and resistance to degradation, syn-
If the old oil gets to the bottom first, there thetic oil is a high-quality product that can
is probably fuel in the oil, the source of which help reduce engine wear. Use synthetic oils
must be found. and extended drain intervals only after engine
Note: Spin-on oil filters can be tough to oil analysis proves it is safe for the engine.
remove. Kodiak pilot and mechanic Randy There are, finally, many good additives for
Weber suggests using silicone lubricant on the oil oil. One that works especially well is an old
filter seal (Fig. 5-13) and then tightening the fil- product with a most unlikely name: Marvel
ter exactly as the engine manufacturer suggests. Mystery Oil. It comes in a red can and is

Fig. 5-13. Lube the oil filter seal with silicone grease.
72 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

CALIBRATING THE OIL DIPSTICK

ON A NEWLY INSTALLED ENGINE

When repowering with a marine engine dif-

ferent from the one you are replacing, it is
important to calibrate the dipstick. Engineers
Both oil level and oil
at the factory knew how much oil the new capacity are affected
engine required, but they couldn’t know at by the engine’s angle.
what angle the engine would be installed. This
is an important consideration in recreational
sailboats, which often have engines installed
at an angle.
To begin, drain all oil from the engine. The
manufacturer will specify how many gallons
represent the low oil mark. Usually the low
oil mark will be 90 percent of full. Therefore,
if the engine holds 10 gallons, adding nine also helps prevent sticking of the piston rings
gallons and marking the stick at nine gallons in their ring grooves. Marvel Mystery Oil is
will represent the low oil mark. very good in gasoline and diesel fuel systems
To find the full mark, add the final gallon as well as in the crankcase oil. It is a super
and mark the stick at the full mark. Marking lubricant that can extend engine life.
can be done by lightly marking the dipstick
WATER FILTERS
with a file or with a center punch. After all the
Domestic water filters are important for the
specified oil is added, this level of oil repre-
crew’s health. In remote areas, you don’t know
sents the full mark. Wipe off the dipstick and
about the quality of the water you’re putting
insert it in the engine, draw it out, and mark
this level as the high mark. in the tank. Many workboats have question-
Modern oil has very good wetting ability.able potable water tanks, as do pleasure craft.
Therefore, an engine at rest overnight can For inboard water filtration, an activated
charcoal filter is the minimum, and a reverse
give the oil time to wick above the full mark.
osmosis (RO) filter system is far better.
Just wipe the stick and reinsert it for an accu-
rate reading. The same procedure works with Reverse osmosis units have pores in the
engines that must have their oil checked filter membranes that are so small only water
while the engine is running. Note: Don’t molecules can pass through. These units then
exceed the engine manufacturer’s maximum flush contaminants overboard, so they do
engine installation angle. require a little more plumbing, and, like any
other filter, they do require filter cartridge
changes. All water filters need to be connected
available in most auto parts stores. It is an between the boat’s freshwater (domestic) pump
upper cylinder lubricant, which means it and the galley tap where the crew gets their
works well in lubricating the valve guides and drinking water.
 CHAPTER 6
THE MARINE TRANSMISSION
AND POWER-TAKE-OFF

Marine engines spin far faster than a propel- The transmission performs four vital duties:
ler should turn, and engines turn in just one 1. It provides reverse for backing the boat
direction. The function of the marine trans- and also for sudden braking
mission is to reduce the engine speed to a 2. It reduces propeller shaft speed for maxi-
usable shaft rpm while enabling the propeller mum efficiency
to spin in reverse as well as forward. It sounds 3. It transmits the fore-and aft-thrust from
obvious, but sometimes the most basic func- the propeller to the boat. Just as the mast on
tions related to a boat’s machinery are taken a sailboat transmits the wind’s force on the
for granted until a vital component fails. sails to the vessel, the transmission transmits
The following discussion will focus pri- the propeller’s force to the vessel through
marily on marine transmissions for inboard the engine bed, while isolating the engine
gasoline and diesel engines, but it will also from the destructive power of the propel-
provide information about engine power- ler’s thrust. If this thrust acted directly on
take-offs (PTOs). A PTO is essentially a means the engine’s flywheel, it would immediately
by which power from the engine is harnessed destroy the crankshaft’s main thrust bearing
to run other equipment on board. While most and cause engine failure.
smaller recreational vessels don’t have PTOs, 4. It dissipates heat, both by radiation and
it is still good to know about them, because through the oil supply to a heat exchanger
the knowledge will broaden your overall (oil cooler). This heat is caused by friction
understanding of what an engine can do in inside the gearbox.
addition to moving a boat through the water.
Propeller thrust, even in a small boat, can
MARINE TRANSMISSIONS be considerable. For example, a 16-foot seine
As mentioned above, transmissions do more skiff, such as an Alaskan salmon fisherman
than allow you to shift into forward, neutral, uses, might have a 130 hp, four-cylinder die-
and reverse. The transmission, also known as sel engine and easily achieve a bollard pull of
a reduction gear, slows the propeller to a use- 3,000 pounds. (Bollard pull is measured with
ful speed. In other words, it helps control the a heavy-duty scale tied between the skiff and
power transfer from the engine to the propel- the dock. It is defined as the pulling ability of
ler, acting as a middleman. The transmission is a boat measured in pounds or tons exerted
often referred to as a marine gear to distinguish when the boat is tied to and pulling against
it from automotive transmissions (Fig. 6-1). an immovable object.)
73
74 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 6-1. This small marine transmission has no oil filter and no suction screen on the oil intake. The lever arm in the
foreground controls the shifting between forward, neutral, and reverse. This transmission would be matched with a
two- or three-cylinder diesel of less than 40 hp. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

GEAR RATIOS
When a diesel engine turns at 2,000 rpm and
A 2:1 Gear Ratio
the propeller shaft turns at only 1,000 rpm, HALF
200 RPM AS
there is a drive ratio through the transmission Engine MANY

of 2:1 (Fig. 6-2). Put another way, 2,000 rpm Speed

is going into the front of the transmission, but

only 1,000 rpm comes out the back. This is 1000 RPM
TWICE AS
Propeller
accomplished by using two gears inside the Speed
MANY TEETH
transmission, running together. From the ratio
we can see that the driving gear, the one from
the engine, must have half the number of teeth
as the gear that drives the propeller shaft. Gear
reduction is what allows the engine, transmis-
sion, and propeller shaft to work together to
move the boat efficiently through the water. Fig. 6-2. A 2:1 transmission reduction ratio.
 THE MARINE TRANSMISSION AND POWER-TAKE-OFF 75

MAINTENANCE change the oil and filter or if your transmis-

As always, the first essential step in mechani- sion develops problems. It is not uncommon
cal maintenance is to read the manual care- to find metallic fuzz consisting of very fine,
fully. Examine your transmission manual and short strands of metal in this screen in a new
check for the proper type of oil to use. If syn- gear or following a rebuild. Use caution when
thetic oil is compatible with your equipment, checking your screen because these strands
use it because it has better film strength and are very sharp!
is easier to pump than conventional oils. If you begin to see metal fuzz in the screen
While you have the manual in hand, also on a transmission with a high number of
note the manufacturer’s recommendations hours, you need to check further. Remove the
for oil change intervals. oil filter and cut it open to inspect for metal-
Watch for oil leaks, especially from the lic glitter.
front end of the transmission. There are two Glitter is composed of small chunks of
possibilities for oil leaks in this area. Be sure to recently destroyed machinery, and more than
make the correct call between an engine rear half a thimble of this stuff in a small trans-
crankshaft seal leak and a seal leak in the front mission indicates that your gear is about
of the transmission. To distinguish between to die or is already dead. With glitter you
them, just remember that the transmission will often see the lubricating oil take on an
oil is always honey-colored, unless you’re appearance as of metallic paint. Glitter is also
using automatic transmission fluid (ATF), in self-perpetuating—that is, when the metallic
which case the fluid will be red. Engine oil, on particles start flowing through a transmis-
the other hand, is normally black. It is honey- sion, they run through the gears and bearings
colored immediately following an oil change, and cause even more damage.
but blackens as soon as the engine is started.
One problem with an oil leak in this area is COME-HOME SCREWS
that the oil can deteriorate the rubber cou- Several manufacturers of marine transmis-
pling that connects the input shaft of some sions, including Twin Disc and ZF, provide
transmissions to the engine flywheel. come-home screws as a means to keep going
Always monitor oil temperature and pres- if a clutch pack fails. Check your manual or
sure as you operate the boat. Some transmis- ask your transmission or engine dealer to
sions have lower pressure in neutral than demonstrate the come-home feature before
when they are in gear. If so, always wait to you need it.
increase the throttle setting until sufficient While coming back to port on the come-
drive pressure comes up on your gauge to home screws, it is advisable to be on the radio
show that the transmission is fully engaged. lining up a possible tow, because the failed
clutch will contaminate the gear case with
GLITTER clutch material and may result in a complete
Many transmissions have a suction screen transmission failure. See Fig. 14-3 on page
on the gear pump’s incoming oil supply line. 245 for more information on the come-home
This screen needs to be checked when you feature.
76 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

LOCKING THE SHAFT

If your workboat must be towed, be sure to FOR THE WORKBOAT
stop the propeller shaft rotation. This can be Trolling Valves on Workboats
done by hanging a pipe wrench on the propel- Sometimes the need arises to go slower
ler shaft to prevent it from turning. When the than the vessel travels in gear at its lowest
shaft freewheels from the rear with the engine engine rpm, which is why many transmis-
turned off, a hydraulic transmission will not sions on workboats have provisions for a
receive lubrication, which is why a spinning trolling valve. The trolling valves that Twin
output shaft can be harmful. Some hydrau- Disc sells, for example, can be added to many
of their transmissions after the sale.
lic workboat transmissions have shaft brakes
A trolling valve reduces the application oil
that lock automatically when the transmis-
pressure to the forward clutch pack, allowing
sion is in neutral or the engine is shut down. the clutch to slip a little while maintaining
Be sure to check the manual for your unit to lubrication to the discs to carry away excess
understand what is required. Small mechani- heat caused by slippage in the forward clutch.
cal transmissions with toothed gears, such as The downside to a trolling valve is that you
those on sailboats, do receive some lubrication can’t use full engine power unless the valve is
whenever the output shaft spins, so shaft free- closed. Using the trolling valve at high engine
wheeling does not harm the transmission. rpm will quickly burn out the forward clutch.

FRONT AND REAR COUPLINGS

Each transmission has one coupling at the
designed to take a small amount of torsional
front and one at the rear. They are alike in
vibration and a huge amount of propeller
name only.
thrust. Flexible couplings for the output end
The coupling between the engine and the
of the transmission are available and do have
transmission is designed to be flexible enough
their place. Lighter, high-speed boats with
to absorb rotating impulses of torque com-
high propeller shaft speeds benefit from a
ing from the engine. However, these front
flexible output shaft coupling. They are used
couplings are not designed to absorb fore-
on motoryachts and lobster boats, which are
and-aft thrust. They are sometimes made of
light vessels with much higher power levels
a combination of steel discs and springs to
than is typical of commercial fishing boats of
absorb torque, though they can also be made
the same length.
of a rubber-like compound that absorbs
vibrations from firing impulses common to THE POWER-TAKE-OFF (PTO)
all engines. These rotary vibrations are called As mentioned in the introduction of this
torsional vibrations. As previously men- chapter, a power-take-off (PTO) harnesses
tioned, an oil leak between the engine and the engine to power other equipment.
the transmission will seriously weaken a rub- Conservatively speaking, there are more
ber coupling and cause it to fail. than one hundred ways to do it.
Output shaft couplings usually come Figure 6-3 shows several ways to use an
installed from the factory, with rigid couplings engine to drive pumps:
 THE MARINE TRANSMISSION AND POWER-TAKE-OFF 77

(A) Optional Clutch

Mounts on Top of Tranny
known as end play, allows the crankshaft to
Flexible move forward and aft in the cylinder block.
Coupling
It must have enough end float to allow the
(B) Direct-Driven
Pump
Pos. crankshaft thrust bearing to receive proper
Neg.
Hydraulic Pump lubrication. Too little prevents oil from get-
Driven by
Clutched PTO ting to the thrust-bearing surface, which will
Workboat
Transmission (D) Pitts destroy the crankshaft and cylinder block.
Electric
(C) Belt-Driven
Clutch
Pump
MEASURING YOUR FLYWHEEL HOUSING
When ordering an engine-driven unit such
Fig. 6-3. Various power-take-off (PTO) systems. Option A, for
as a marine transmission or a new PTO, you
workboats, requires a clutched PTO mounted on the
transmission. have to know the size of the flywheel housing
on the engine. This seemingly simple infor-
mation isn’t always easy to obtain. Follow the
• With the engine’s flywheel, through a measurements on Figure 6-4 to determine the
mechanical clutch (A) size and bolt pattern of the flywheel housing
• With a clutchless side-mounted pump on your engine.
direct-driven from the engine’s timing
EXTRA BELTS
gears (B)
When replacing alternator or fan belts on an
• With a belt driving a pump from the
engine with a front-mounted PTO, always
engine’s front crankshaft pulley (C)
tie in an extra set of belts around the crank-
• With a D-shaft driving a pump remotely
shaft snout so the whole PTO won’t need
through a Pitts electric clutch (D)
to be removed for future belt changes. See
Chapter 4 for more details.
The PTO is used to power hydraulic
pumps, steering pumps, refrigeration com-
pressors, or an extra alternator. Usually Measure the straight-line distance between two consecutive
flywheel housing bolts to learn the SAE housing size.
mounted at opposite ends of the engine,
Flywheel
PTOs and boat transmissions share com- Society of Automotive Housing Face
mon mounting requirements: they all must Engineers (S.A.E.)
be centered with the engine’s crankshaft. Numbering System:
"0" = 5.25" between Bolt Centers
Caterpillar engine service manuals provide 1 = 5.46"
a very clear explanation of how to check to 2 = 4.81"
3 = 4.42"
see that the flywheel and PTO housings are 4 = 3.92" Looking at
S.A.E. Number the Rear of
round and centered with the crankshaft. 5 = 5.15"
the Engine

Boltholes
CRANKSHAFT END FLOAT
Most engine manuals spell out how to check
crankshaft end float, another important
Fig. 6-4. The SAE flywheel housing size is simply the
aspect of mounting transmissions and PTOs straight-line center-to-center distance between two
on an engine. Crankshaft end float, otherwise adjacent bolts.
78 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

REMOVING PROPELLERS

Using an acetylene torch is a good way to remove a larger propeller. A Mapp gas torch gets warm
enough to do small propellers.

2-Heat the keyway area of the propeller

with an acetylene torch.

1-Loosen Nut

3-Strike here with large

sledge hammer.
Shaft
Key-Way
 CHAPTER 7
THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE

Many boats have two electrical systems, one emphasize devices that enhance safety and
operating on direct current (DC) and one protect propulsion and generator engines, as
operating on alternating current (AC). The well as tips for maintaining these devices.
two systems are quite different, but they Before we begin, please note that working
both deliver electrical power and do work around electricity on boats can be dangerous,
on board, and this saves the crew’s time and and this is particularly true of AC power.
muscle power. I am not an electrician, and this Where DC power might shock or arc (nei-
book does not attempt to guide you through ther being a pleasant thing by any means),
the ins and outs of onboard DC and AC elec- AC power can kill. You must be absolutely
trical system maintenance and troubleshoot- certain that no power is supplying any AC
ing. For that you can study one of the several components you handle or work on. If in
good marine electrical manuals available. For any doubt about what you are doing, hire a
example, basic 12-volt DC coverage is pro- marine electrician.
vided by The 12-Volt Bible for Boats, Second
Edition (Miner Brotherton and Ed Sherman, SWITCHES, ALARMS, AND
2003) and by Sailboat Electrics Simplified (Don SHUTDOWN SYSTEMS
Casey, 1999). For intermediate coverage of The alarm and shutdown systems that protect
DC and AC systems, your choices include propulsion and generator engines typically
Powerboater’s Guide to Electrical Systems, Second operate with DC power and use electrical
Edition (Ed Sherman, 2007); Boatowner’s switches, such as an oil pressure switch that
Illustrated Electrical Manual, Second Edition detects faults (Fig. 7-2). The system then
(Charlie Wing, 2006); and Boatowner’s activates an alarm or shutdown mechanism.
Mechanical and Electrical Manual, Third Alarm and shutdown switches are
Edition (Nigel Calder, 2005). And ad- designed to respond to “inputs” from temper-
vanced onboard troubleshooting and ature, pressure, or liquid level fluctuations,
electronics installation guidance is available and they do one of two things in response
from Advanced Marine Electrics and Electronics to abnormal inputs: In the case of a propul-
Troubleshooting (Ed Sherman, 2007). sion engine, since sudden engine shutdown is
This chapter will focus on the electro- undesirable, the switch will send power to an
mechanical connections in noncomputerized alarm, which is either a horn or warning light,
mechanical components—in other words, and the engine will keep running. In the case
our concern here is mechanical malfunc- of a generator engine, the switch will power a
tions that have an electrical origin. We’ll also normally non-energized actuator (or depower
79
80 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

USING A MULTIMETER TO CHECK SWITCHES

Even inexpensive multimeters come with helpful documentation. Start by reading the booklet that came with
yours.
To check for the presence of voltage at a DC switch, turn the system on without starting the engine.
Turn the multimeter dial (Fig.7-1) to “Volts DC” (in other words, put the multimeter in its voltmeter
mode) and ground the tip of the black lead to ground. Next touch the tip of the red lead to each terminal
on the switch. One of the terminals should provide a voltage reading on the multimeter display.

Fig. 7-1. Multimeters include several dial settings for use in checking electrical systems. Read the meter instructions
carefully to learn how yours works.
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 81

To check for continuity through a switch or wire, first be sure that power to the switch is off. Confirm
this by testing for voltage as described above. Next, turn the multimeter to ohmmeter mode by switch-
ing the dial to “Ohms” or “continuity” (depending on how the dial is labeled). Connect the black probe
to one terminal on the switch and the red probe to the other terminal, and watch the meter display for
a change in reading. If the meter shows continuity (resistance near zero ohms), then the contacts are
closed. If the meter shows infinite ohms or OL (overload), the contacts are open.
Note: Some multimeters have an audible “beep” for continuity that helps to quickly check switches.

Conductor Color Code: Positive (+) in a main propulsion engine. Meanwhile the
Negative (–)
engine keeps running, leaving the decision of
Thin Metal
No Pressure Diaphragm
when to shut it down to the skipper. If the
Contacts Open boat is close to rocks or other hazards, the
(+) Battery Side
skipper may decide to operate the engine just
(–) Load Side a little longer to get away from the hazard.
Switch in “Off” Position In the case of low oil pressure in a generator
set, however, a shutdown system can be con-
figured to first sound an alarm and then stop
Pressure Closes
Contacts the engine shortly thereafter.
Contacts Closed
At a minimum, generators require pro-
(+) Battery Side tection from low oil pressure and high cool-
(–) Load Side ant temperature. There are more elaborate
Switch in “On” Position options as well, including high or low oil
Note: Both conductors attached to a switch are in the “supply” level, low coolant level, and even overspeed-
circuit to the load. However, the conductor to the load is ing protection.
electrically dead until the contacts close.

Fig. 7-2. This normally open switch allows no current flow A FEW DEFINITIONS
until its contacts are closed by oil pressure. Defining a few terms will simplify the work
of understanding the concepts that follow.
a normally energized actuator) to shut down The term shelf-state refers to the posi-
the engine. (It may or may not activate an tion of a switch’s internal contacts—open or
alarm at the same time.) The actuator may be closed—when unaffected by external pres-
an electrical solenoid valve that closes to turn sure or temperature—i.e., when the switch
off the fuel, or it may be an electromechani- is still in its box on the store shelf. Both the
cal solenoid actuator that pushes or pulls a designers of a system and the technicians who
linkage to turn off the fuel. One brand of the repair it later need to know the shelf-state of
latter is the Trombetta actuator, which we’ll each relevant switch.
cover shortly. A normally open switch is one in which
For example, you can wire a switch to the contacts are open in shelf-state. That
sound an alarm in response to low oil pressure is, the electrical circuit through the switch
82 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

is normally open, and no current will pass Conductor Color Code: Positive (+)
Negative (–)
through the contacts. A normally closed switch,
on the other hand, does maintain continuity No Pressure
in normal operation, because the contacts are
(+) Battery Side
closed in shelf-state, thereby allowing current
flow. (+) Load Side
An automatic shutdown system can be
Switch in “On”
either an energize-to-run or an energize-to-stop Position
Diaphragm
variety. An energize-to-run system is one in
which a solenoid-style actuator must oppose
a spring in order to keep the engine run- Pressure
ning. When electrical current is interrupted
(+) Battery Side
at the switch due to a fault (for example, low
oil pressure), the spring either closes a valve (–) Load Side
or moves a mechanical linkage to stop the Switch in “Off”
engine. An energize-to-stop system works in Position
the opposite way; that is to say, a spring will
Fig. 7-3. A simple normally closed pressure switch has
keep the engine running unless the shutdown closed contacts in the shelf-state, before engine
solenoid is activated in response to a fault oil pressure acts on it. In use, a fall in oil pressure
detection and overcomes the spring. allows the contacts to close. This then sounds an
alarm and/or, in the case of a generator, supplies
Normally open and normally closed
power to an energize-to-stop mechanical solenoid-
switches are used in various combinations type actuator, which shuts down the engine.
depending on the complexity of an engine-
protection system, which includes an alarm
and/or, for a generator, an automatic shut- circuits through the switch and can do two
down. For example, a normally open oil pres- jobs simultaneously if needed. One circuit
sure switch is often wired in series with a is normally open and the other is normally
normally closed coolant temperature switch closed. The connections are as follows:
in an energize-to-run shutdown system. If (1) the common wire brings power in; (2) the
the contacts in either switch open due to a normally closed terminal connects to compo-
fault, the engine will shut down. nents operated by the normally closed side;
A simple two-terminal switch must be and (3) the normally open terminal connects
either normally open or normally closed. to components operated by the normally
(See, for example, the normally open switch open side.
in Figure 7-2 and the normally closed switch A three-terminal switch can be operated
shown in Figure 7-3.) Since there is only one on one side only if that is all that is needed.
circuit through the switch, it must be dedi- The common terminal is always used, but
cated to just one task. either the normally closed terminal or the
Though nearly identical to a two-terminal normally open terminal can remain unused.
switch, a three-terminal switch provides two The advantage of this is that the vessel owner
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 83

can carry three-terminal spares for a variety SHUTDOWN SYSTEMS

of applications rather than having to carry Let’s return to the subject of automatic shut-
normally open switches for some applica- downs in generator engines. As we’ve noted, a
tions and normally closed switches for oth- generator shutdown system requires a device,
ers. If the three-terminal switch is adjustable,known as an actuator, that positively stops
that’s all the better. the engine when a switch trips. The type of
shutdown system employed (energize-to-run
ALARM SYSTEMS or energize-to-stop) dictates the combina-
To build a very simple oil pressure alarm for a tion of normally open and normally closed
propulsion engine with a normally closed oil switches to be used.
pressure switch, first plumb the switch into
the engine’s oil passages and then connect one Simple Shutdown Systems
of the switch’s terminals to a battery through The simple shutdown system shown in
the boat’s ignition switch in the wheelhouse. Figure 7-5 has an energize-to-run solenoid
Connect the other terminal to a grounded valve on the injection pump. This means the
horn (Fig. 7-4). engine will not get fuel and therefore will not
When connected this way, the horn will run unless there is electrical power to the
sound anytime the engine’s ignition switch is solenoid valve. (Solenoid valves open or close
on and there is insufficient oil pressure acting against a spring, depending on electrical input.)
on the oil pressure switch’s internal contacts. In contrast with a solenoid valve, an elec-
Normal oil pressure is required to open the tromechanical solenoid actuator (Fig. 7-6)
contacts and break the alarm circuit. As moves a mechanical linkage in response to
the engine operates, this spring-loaded oil electrical input (energize-to-run) or inter-
pressure switch is poised to sound the alarm ruption of electrical input (energize-to-
at the instant oil pressure drops. stop). Trombetta is a common brand name of

Positive (+)
Conductor Color Code: Positive (+) Negative (–)
Negative (–)

Alarm Ignition
Horn Switch
Injection
Pump
“Energize-to-run”
Solenoid
Oil Pressure Switch
Ignition Switch Oil Pressure Switch + – (Engine and Equipment
+ – Battery Grounded)
(Engine and Equipment Grounded)
Battery

Fig. 7-5. In this simplified energize-to-run shutdown system

Fig. 7-4. A simplified oil pressure alarm system for a schematic, a normally open oil pressure switch will
propulsion engine. Using a normally closed oil open in response to low oil pressure and interrupt
pressure switch, this system sounds a horn alarm the electrical supply to an energize-to-run solenoid
in response to falling oil pressure, but does not turn valve on the injection pump, closing the valve and
off the engine. shutting down the generator engine.
84 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 7-6. This Trombetta actuator uses electrical power to oppose a spring, thus allowing fuel into the
injection pump and permitting the generator engine to run. In the event of a fault, the power
to the actuator is interrupted, and the generator shuts down.

electromechanical actuator. A simple electro- the actuator moves a lever, cutting off fuel to
magnet moves an iron pin when the solenoid stop the generator.
is energized (magnetized). In the energize-to- The solenoid actuators discussed in this
run system shown in Figure 7-6, the actuator chapter, such as the Trombetta, are continu-
opposes a spring when energized, allowing ously rated (as opposed to momentary rated).
fuel into the injection pump and thus permit- That is, they can run day in, day out, without
ting the engine to run. When a fault occurs, overheating or malfunctioning. These actua-
power to the actuator is interrupted and the tors have both pull-in and hold-in electrical
opposing spring cuts off the fuel and turns windings. In either an energize-to-run or
the engine off. An electromechanical actuator an energize-to-stop application, the pull-in
in an energize-to-stop application works in windings use high amperage to pull in a
the opposite fashion—i.e., when energized, mechanical linkage in opposition to spring
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 85

pressure. In an energize-to-run application injection systems, like those on some John

only, once the linkage is pulled in, lighter-duty Deere engines, mount the solenoid actuator
hold-in windings that use far less current inside the injection pump lid.
take over to hold the linkage in the run posi- Finally, some generator engines are manu-
tion, and the pull-in windings are switched factured without shutdown systems but can
off at this point. In fact, solenoids operating on be protected by an aftermarket system that
12 volts can take from 50 to 80 amps to pull includes a Trombetta or some other actuator.
in the mechanical linkage, depending on their Other engines, however, are manufactured
size; hold-in windings take just a fraction of with shutdown systems in place and will not
that amperage to hold the linkage in place. run without them. For example, CAV dis-
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommen- tributor-type fuel systems, such as those used
dations regarding wire or conductor sizing. on Cummins engines, mount an energize-to-
The length of the linkage from a Trombetta run or energize-to-stop solenoid valve under
solenoid to the injection pump shutdown the pump body (Fig. 7-7).
lever must be precisely adjusted. When there When solenoid valves like the one shown
is trouble with this type of shutdown system, in Figure 7-5 are energized, they emit an
check this linkage length first. Having the audible “click,” and this can be helpful when
linkage adjusted perfectly allows the sliding troubleshooting. If you don’t hear a click, the
iron pin inside the solenoid body to advance solenoid may not be getting power.
to the point within the magnetic field created However, in a noisy engine room, when
by the hold-in windings at which it will be you don’t even have access to a multimeter,
held securely. If the linkage is too short and it is still possible to learn if a solenoid valve
the solenoid pin cannot reach the hold-in is energized. When a solenoid valve is ener-
position, the solenoid will not keep the engine gized, its exterior is magnetized. Just lay a
running when the starter quits cranking. steel screwdriver against the outside of the
A Trombetta solenoid has three wires: solenoid to learn if it is magnetized and there-
(1) the black ground wire; (2) the white, fore receiving power.
high-current pull-in wire; and (3) the red, low-
current hold-in wire. When wiring the More Elaborate Shutdown Systems
solenoid, it’s vital to carefully follow the To build a more elaborate shutdown system,
printed directions that come with the sole- one that responds to abnormally high coolant
noid, because none of the wires is inter- temperature as well as abnormally low oil pres-
changeable with the others. If the hold-in sure, we would add the second switch (coolant
and pull-in wires are mistakenly reversed, the temperature) in series so that a fault at either
solenoid will quickly overheat and be destroyed. the oil pressure or coolant temperature switch
The solenoid actuators discussed above— will stop the engine, as shown in Figure 7-8.
including the Trombetta—mount on the
outside of the fuel system, but this arrange- Direct Current (DC) Relays
ment, while common, is by no means uni- If the design of a shutdown system calls
versal. For example, Stanadyne diesel fuel for the use of a more powerful mechanical
86 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 7-7. Location of the fuel solenoid on a CAV distributor-type diesel fuel system. Small Cummins engines sometimes use this
type of fuel system.

actuator, the system will require higher

(+)
(–)
amperage. When the amperage gets above
Water Temperature Switch 5 amps at 12 volts, it is time to incorporate a
relay (Fig. 7-9). A relay is a device that uses
Ignition
a small amount of electrical current to control
Switch
Injection
a larger amount of current (Fig. 7-10).
Pump “Energize-to-run This type of DC relay is rated as either
Solenoid”
momentary or continuous. Energize-to-run
Oil Pressure Switch
+ – systems must have a continuously rated relay,
(Engine and Equipment Grounded)
Battery whereas an energize-to-stop system or alarm
needs only a relay with a momentary rating.
Fig. 7-8. This simplified view shows a generator shutdown Relays are often used to power (control)
system with pressure and temperature switches
wired in series and designed to power an energize- solenoids like the Trombetta actuator. The
to-run fuel system solenoid valve. control power to the relay (Fig. 7-11) is in
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 87

Contacts

Electromagnet

Control
Circuit

Relay De-energized (off position)

Fig. 7-9. This simplified view of a DC relay shows how its contacts move inside the relay’s metal jacket. The small-gauge wires
at the bottom of the relay carry the energizing current that closes the relay’s contacts. The large-gauge wires at the top of
the relay carry the heavy electrical load that the relay controls. In the left view, the relay is not energized and the contacts
are therefore open, interrupting the electrical load. In the right view, the relay is energized, closing the contacts and
permitting the heavy electrical current to flow.

Fig. 7-10. This photo shows the exterior of a continuous-duty relay.

88 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

(+)
turn routed through the shutdown system’s
(–)
Control Circuit Water Temperature Switch
switches.
to the Relay
OTHER POSSIBLE ENGINE-PROTECTION
SWITCHES
Ignition “Energize-to-run”
Switch Solenoid Switches are available with a wide range of
Injection
Pump
Electrical Relay
settings, and some are adjustable so that they
Pressure Switch
can be reset in the field. The switch shown
+ – in Figure 7-12 is adjustable with an Allen
Battery
wrench after the rubber plug is removed.
Some engine-protection systems use, in
addition, a coolant-level switch on the cooling
Fig. 7-11. This shutdown system is equipped with a relay and system expansion tank. This is usually wired
is able to power heavy-duty actuators.
to sound an alarm and/or (in the case of a

Fig. 7-12. This three-terminal adjustable oil pressure switch can be reset in the field when
a higher or lower tripping pressure is needed.
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 89

generator engine) to stop the engine when the 0.050 inch from a generator flywheel and
coolant level drops below a specified thresh- measures the rpm of flywheel teeth through its
old. Yet another option is an oil level switch magnetic field. In the event of an engine over-
in the oil pan, which is usually set to sound speed, it sends an electric signal through an
an alarm and/or stop a generator engine when overspeed switch to the generator’s energize-
oil rises above or falls below a specified oper- to-run or energize-to-stop shutdown solenoid.
ating range, the idea being that running out Tachometer senders come in a number
of oil and “making oil” must both be guarded of diameters (Fig. 7-13). In North America,
against. (“Making oil” means simply that the 3/ -inch national fine (NF), 5/ -inch NF, and
8 8
oil level is rising, which can only be caused by even 3/4-inch NF are common sizes. Follow
either fuel or coolant leaking into the oil pan.) the engine maker’s directions for installing
Electric tachometer senders, also known and adjusting these components.
as magnetic impulse pickups, constitute yet Whatever additional switches are in an
another engine-protection option for gen- engine-protection system, they all act as moni-
erators. A tachometer sender mounts just tors to safeguard the engine while it is running.

Fig. 7-13. Electric tachometer senders, also known as magnetic impulse pickups, are used in generator
engine speed-control systems.
90 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 7-14. A stovetop testing of a temperature switch quickly shows when and if the switch contacts are tripping.

TESTING SWITCHES Murphy coolant-level alarms have a small

You can test a coolant-temperature switch on knob on the face of the unit that can be turned
a stovetop in the same way you test an engine by hand for testing purposes.
thermostat. Heat water in a one-quart sauce- Testing oil pressure switches is a little more
pan and use a thermometer to check the tem- difficult, because it requires a pressure source.
perature at which the switch contacts move. A If you have access to a compressed air system,
meat thermometer works just fine, as shown connect air pressure to the switch. The regu-
in Figure 7-14. lator on the air compressor should be turned
Attach an ohmmeter to both contacts of down to 30 psi to avoid overpressurizing the
the switch and wait for the contacts to move. switch. When the pressure switch is connected
If the contacts don’t trip near the rated tem- to air pressure, use an ohmmeter to tell if the
perature, the switch must be replaced or switch is tripping, proceeding as in the test of
adjusted (if adjustment is possible). a temperature switch described above.
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 91

causes a magnetic field to revolve. The revolv-

ing magnetic field moves past a current-
carrying conductor at great speed. This action
results in useful electrical power flowing to
the boat’s breaker panel.
Every generator set has two identification
plates, one for the engine and one for the gen-
erator. For some strange reason, these plates
are often made of aluminum rather than
stainless steel. In the marine environment,
the corners of the identification plates soon
corrode where the rivets pass through the tag
6.8 V to attach them to the engine and generator.
Digital If they don’t corrode and fall off, somebody
Volt
Meter will surely paint over them! Be sure to record
all information from each identification plate
while you can.

Fig. 7-15. Test the battery for self-discharge due to surface

LEAKY CRANKSHAFT SEALS
deposits. If you register a voltage difference
between the positive post and the battery surface, One of the more important maintenance
clean the battery surfaces and posts. items to watch with generators is the engine’s
rear crankshaft seal (Fig. 7-18). When the seal
fails, engine oil leaks into the flywheel hous-
BATTERY MAINTENANCE
ing between the generator windings and the
Keep the tops of batteries clean and dry to
engine. A quick inspection of the air discharge
avoid unwanted discharging through electri-
end of the generator will indicate if there is a
cally conductive deposits between the posi-
buildup of oil and dust. This should serve as
tive and negative posts of a dirty battery. Test
a red flag, signaling the need for maintenance.
for a dirty battery with a voltmeter as shown
If there is a buildup of dirt, it is time to look
in Figure 7-15. If you get a voltage reading
deeper for the source of contamination.
between the positive post and any surface of
In pleasure boats and sailboats, genera-
the battery, you are losing charge. To clean the
tor engines turn at either 1,800 or 1,200 rpm.
tops of your battery, dust the surface with a
Any oil that leaks past the rear seal is flung
fine coat of baking soda to neutralize any acidic
outward by the spinning of the flywheel. The
residue. Wash the baking soda off with water.
oil is then picked up by the air coming from the
THE MECHANICAL SIDE generator fan and becomes an airborne
OF AC POWER GENERATION mist. This oily mist is carried through-
Generators have an electrical (generator) side out the engine room because of the
and a mechanical (engine) side. The engine tremendous amount of cooling air that the
turns the generator, and this movement generator fan moves through the generator.
92 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

TEMPORARY REPAIR OF A BAD BATTERY POST

When battery cable terminals are loose on battery posts, and cranking the engine demands high amper-
age, the arc and heat will cause the posts to disintegrate. It is possible to temporarily rebuild a post and
get home by making a post mold and pouring a new post.
But first some precautions! The battery must be disconnected and carried out on deck, where there is
good ventilation. Without ventilation, hydrogen gases inside the battery can explode. Wear gloves and
eye protection, and further, put a transparent face shield over your safety glasses. Also, avoid using
open flames near batteries!
You can make a mold by drilling a piece of hardwood or aluminum and tapering the hole to the size of
the damaged post. It is not too hard to make a post mold in a piece of 1-inch-thick hardwood—begin
by drilling a hole through the hardwood, then enlarge the hole by whittling. Remember that the positive
post is always larger in diameter than the negative post. Before pouring, clean the damaged post with a
wire brush. If most of the post is gone, thread a short sheet-metal screw into the old post before you fit
the mold over the post (Figure 7-16), and pour molten lead around the screw. A source of lead is found
in lead sinkers used for fishing. While this remedy isn’t something an average recreational boater would
wish to do, it just might get you out of a bind, especially if you’re caught in a pinch in a remote locale.
Use extreme caution when handling molten lead; the lead will be hot, and it is poisonous.
Needless to say, this is a short-term solution. You will need to replace the battery as soon as possible.

1
Post “mold” made from
hardwood or metal
Melt lead or
Brush and clean old
solder and
post thoroughly
pour into mold

The Post Restored 3

Note:
a two or three inch
steel pipe cap makes
a good crucible

Fig. 7-16. Making a mold and pouring a new post to temporarily repair a battery.
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 93

WORK-AROUND SOLUTION avoid fire hazard. The system also uses a

spring-loaded push button (momentary
Bypassing a Failed Indicator in a switch). When the glow plugs are ener-
Manually Controlled Glow-Plug Starting gized, the extra plug glows red. When you
System see that slight red glow behind the instru-
Some diesel engines use glow plugs to aid ment panel, turn off the glow plugs and
starting. The amount of time the glow plugs start the engine.
are supposed to be energized is measured in
Positive (+)
seconds, and if glow plugs are energized too Negative (–)
long, they overheat. When this happens, the
tips are prone to melt and break off, causing Relay
Switch

them to fall into the cylinders, where they can Tube attached to panel Indicator
glows when
do terrible damage to an engine. One diesel other plugs
owner told me that he never worried about this are energized.

because his mechanic had assured him

that glow plugs are made of soft materials Battery
In the
so that an engine can pulverize them and spit On the
wheelhouse
engine
them out the exhaust! Engine manufacturers
don’t buy this concept.
To prevent overheating of glow plugs, most
Glow Plugs
manually controlled glow-plug systems pro-
vide an indicator in the control panel that Fig. 7-17. Roy Maddocks’s work-around glow-plug
glows red when it’s time to turn off the glow control system.
plugs and start the engine. If your indicator
has failed, it is possible to “jump” your glow
plugs for starting by temporarily connecting
a wire from the battery to the glow-plug har-
Many generators move between 500 and
ness. To jump glow plugs without an indi- 1,200 cubic feet of cooling air per minute
cator, however, is to risk expensive damage (CFM). In a small engine room, twice the
to the engine. You need some other means volume of air in the entire enclosure can pass
of determining when it’s time to turn off the through the generator every minute.
glow plugs. The mist recirculates to the air-intake por-
Roy Maddocks, owner of Alaska Diesel tion of the generator and is repeatedly pulled
Service in Anchorage, Alaska, suggests the inside. This puts a uniform coat of oil on
following temporary fix. Since it is often a every part of the generator. The airborne oil
lot easier to find a spare glow plug than is also pulled into the generator engine’s air
to find a new glow-plug indicator, his sys- filter. In fact, any engines running nearby will
tem (Fig. 7-17) uses an extra glow plug draw oil into their air filters, causing prema-
installed in a holder behind the instrument ture airflow restriction.
panel. Careful installation is required to Oil on the generator windings acts as an
insulator and prevents them from cooling.
94 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Diesel Engine
your engine manual. Fuel or coolant leaking
Air-Intake
Louvers into the oil pan can also explain a high oil
level in the engine.
Generator Location of Rear Engines that have wet boltholes in the
Crankshaft Seal
flywheel mounting crankshaft flange can
leak through one or more boltholes when
not sealed according to the engine maker’s
instructions. Some engines also have wet
boltholes in the flywheel housing (going
through the block into the crankcase) that
Fig. 7-18. Rear crankshaft seal. can mimic a rear seal failure, though this type
of arrangement is rare. (A wet bolthole is one
Once the windings are coated with oil, any in which the bolt is turned into threads from
dust that comes through will stick to them, outside the engine and penetrates any of the
further reducing their ability to cool. engine’s fluid systems, such as the crankcase
Any amount of water or salt spray coming or the cooling system.)
into the generator airstream will soon find One additional reason for rear seal fail-
its way inside. Even splash from bilge water ure is excessive wear of the rear main bear-
in rough seas will find its way into the gen- ing in an engine with many hours of service.
erator’s airstream. Because water contains In this case, the crankshaft can wobble as it
minerals that will carry electrical current, turns while the engine is being started, and
a short circuit will occur if a crack develops this wobble will cause the rear seal to leak.
in the winding insulation. Bilge water also In a generator engine, the rear main crank-
carries microorganisms that eat the winding shaft bearing will often wear more than other
insulation. Generator winding insulation is engine bearings because the engine must start
degraded when anything other than cool, dry dry with the weight of the generator’s revolv-
air passes through the generator. ing member hanging on the heavy flywheel.
If you see oil leaking from the rear crank- Never clean or wash a generator when it is
shaft seal, it is time to find out why the seal running or when the electrical junction box is
failed and then replace it. First check the open. Before servicing any generator, have a
engine oil level to learn if the level is too high. qualified electrician confirm that there is no
A high oil level can cause even a good seal to power running to it. Disconnect all electri-
leak. Someone may have overfilled the engine cal leads to the generator. Both propulsion
with oil, or perhaps the engine is mounted at and generator engines must have the bat-
an extreme angle (more than 15 degrees of tery cables removed from the starter to avoid
fore-and-aft inclination). It is also possible accidental turning of the crankshaft during
that you need to check the dipstick calibra- repairs.
tion. Each engine manufacturer has a sug- Clearly tag the instrument panel or con-
gested method for calibrating the oil dipstick trol panel so that all personnel will see that
in its marine engines (see Fig. 5-14). Refer to the unit is out of service. Disconnect the
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 95

battery from the starter and turn off fuel to

the engine. If it looks like the engine position
will be disturbed, disconnect the exhaust sys-
tem plumbing as well. Detaching the exhaust
system will avoid damaging the exhaust pipe Autobody Slide Hammer
or flex when the engine is moved to facilitate Drill Small
the repair. Hole Here
To become familiar with the area between
the engine and the powered unit, make note
of three things inside the flywheel housing:
Hammer Weight

1. the drive device that couples the Fig. 7-19. Removing a lip-type seal with a slide hammer. First
transmission or generator to the drill a small hole in the seal’s metal body, sizing
flywheel; the hole so that the threads on the tip of the slide
hammer will grip in it. Twist the slide hammer
2. the engine’s flywheel; into this hole, then tap away from the seal with
3. the engine’s rear crankshaft seal. the slide hammer weight. The seal will quickly be
pulled from its bore.
Looking forward from the rear of the
engine (i.e., the generator end), you will see
the old seal as shown in Figure 7-19. Clean the
three concentric rings of bolts that you must
area thoroughly, and then install the new seal
remove to gain access to the rear seal:
as directed in your engine service manual.
1. The largest-diameter ring of bolts fastens
the transmission or generator housing to SINGLE BEARING DAMAGE
the engine’s flywheel housing. Older generators used bearings that had to
2. The next smaller ring of bolts fastens be oiled daily. Modern marine generators
the transmission or generator drive to the use a single or rear bearing, sealed and lubri-
engine’s flywheel. After removing the first cated at the factory. It is important to visually
two rings of bolts you can pull the transmis- inspect the bearing now and then to watch
sion or generator away from the engine. for a leaky seal. If and when you see evidence
3. Next the flywheel-lifting brackets bolted of grease leaking from the bearing, it needs
to the flywheel and the third, inner ring of to be changed. The bearing is located oppo-
bolts can be removed. This allows the fly- site the engine (Fig. 7-22). After this type of
wheel to be lifted away from the engine and bearing runs without lubrication for a short
provides access to the rear seal. Before remov- time, it will lock and cause the entire bearing
ing the flywheel, however, mark the position to spin with the rotating member of the gen-
of the flywheel on the crankshaft to aid its erator. This will seriously damage the bear-
reinstallation. ing’s support plate, and serious vibration or
Once you gain access to the seal, drill a even electrical arcing will result. Change the
small hole in the outer metal surface of the bearing by removing the rear generator cover,
seal body and use a slide hammer to remove which is also the rear bearing carrier.
96 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

WORK-AROUND SOLUTION

Tightening Oil-Seal Tension Springs

Lip-type seal tension springs can be tightened (Fig. 7-20) if a replacement seal isn’t available and
the engine must be used. They can also be tightened if a shaft running through the seal has become
undersized from wear or is wobbling as it rotates due to bearing wear. Front and rear crankshaft seals,
as well as other lip-type seals, often wear a groove in the adjacent shaft the seal runs against. Tight-
ening the tension springs may work even when the shaft or bearings are badly worn.
To shorten (and thereby tighten) a seal tension spring, begin by removing the spring from its groove
in the back side of the seal’s neoprene lip. Next find the joint in the spring, and gently turn both ends in
opposite directions to pull the spring apart.
For seals under 1 inch in diameter, cut ¼ inch from the blunt (non-pointed) end of the spring. For
larger seals, cut ½ inch from the blunt end. Screw the ends back together and install the spring back
in its place in the lip seal.
It is important to note that the recommended shaft size for a given seal is not always set in stone.
This means that you may be able to get a seal that fits the inner diameter (ID) of your application, but
the suggested shaft size for the lip may have leeway, both ways. For example, you can often run a 1.345-
inch shaft in a seal recommended for a 1.338-inch shaft, and so on.

Cut Here
With Good
Wire Cutters

Lip-type Oil Seal

Tension Spring

Fig. 7-20. Shortening a seal tension spring increases the lip seal pressure against the shaft, thereby stopping leaks.

When shafts and their lip-type seals are leaking, position the new lip-type seal on an unworn portion
of the shaft (Fig. 7-21). Done properly, this technique restores sealing integrity if the shaft or bearings
are not excessively worn.
 THE MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL INTERFACE 97

Lip Shaft wear from Shaft

Seal previous seal O.D.
I.D.
Alternate seal
Lip installation depths Seal
Seal “Pocket”
O.D. I.D.

Fig. 7-21. Install the new seal to a different depth than the old seal.

Location of
generator’s
single bearing.

Fig. 7-22. Single bearing generators have just one bearing

opposite the engine. They are sealed and lubricated
for life.

EXCEPTIONAL TROUBLESHOOTING

One of my customers noticed that one of his fishing vessels was burning out more lightbulbs than
usual. He called and said he felt funny asking me to check his generator because he was spending more
on light bulbs, but it seemed like there might be an electrical problem and he wanted to know what
might be causing it. When I checked the generator I found a problem with the fuel transfer pump that
allowed air to mix with the fuel. The pump problem was actually triggering brownouts, a low voltage
condition that causes the lights to dim. Brownouts will damage electric motors and are an indicator of
governor, regulator, or fuel problems (see Chapter 1).
 CHAPTER 8
MARINE EXHAUST SYSTEMS

Every engine requires an exhaust system to At times, the exhaust temperatures in

remove gases and heat to achieve optimal diesel engines can exceed 1,000°F. Jacketed
performance. On vehicles, this system is fairly exhaust manifolds reduce exhaust tempera-
straightforward. On boats, however, the sys- tures, knocking them down to 450°F as
tem must function in the harsh marine envi- the exhaust exits the manifold (Fig. 8-1).
ronment and fit into a confined space below. Downstream of the exhaust manifold, it
There are different types of systems for a given takes a well-designed system to safely carry
vessel and engine configuration. This chapter the remaining heat away.
will guide you through the basics of marine The hottest parts of the system are the
exhaust systems, with a special emphasis on exhaust manifold and turbocharger. They
diesel engines. are constructed of heat-resistant materials
and will usually last the life of the engine.
ENGINE FUEL EFFICIENCY New marine diesel engines come with either
Not all the fuel a diesel engine burns is used to water-jacketed or dry-wrapped (Fig. 8-2)
spin the propeller shaft. In fact, approximately exhaust manifolds, and each has its own dis-
one-third of every gallon is used to turn the tinct advantages.
crankshaft, and even more of that same gallon, Dry-wrapped manifolds control surface
about two-thirds, is converted into wasted heat temperature with insulation that coats the
that must be disposed of as quickly as possible exterior to keep heat from escaping into the
through the cooling and exhaust systems. engine room. It takes power to pump exhaust
Consider this for a moment: A gallon of gases through the boat’s exhaust system, and
No. 2 diesel fuel, when burned, produces over hotter exhaust is easier to pump. Thus, an
130,000 British thermal units (Btu) of heat. engine with a dry-wrapped exhaust mani-
Now, let’s take a look at a 42-foot motor- fold can be slightly more efficient because
yacht with a 400 hp diesel engine running at the exhaust gas temperatures are higher
full power for one hour. The yacht will burn and easier to pump than those from an
20 gallons of fuel, and two-thirds of it will engine equipped with a water-jacketed exhaust
be wasted in the production of heat equaling manifold.
roughly two million Btu. Roughly half of this Water-jacketed exhaust manifolds are
heat will be transferred into the ocean via the heavier and more expensive than the dry-
engine’s cooling system, and the other half wrapped type. They absorb heat from the
will be released into the atmosphere by the exhaust and transfer it to the engine cool-
exhaust system. ing system. The gases aren’t as hot as those
98
 MARINE EXHAUST SYSTEMS 99

Jacketed
Exhaust Manifold
Jacketed
Exhaust
System

Marine
Expansion
Coolant Lines Tank

To Vertical Stack Exhaust Ports

Antifreeze
Flanges bolt Coolant
to cylinder head

Fig. 8-1. A jacketed exhaust system. The upward-turning elbow at the aft end
leads to a dry stack. In a wet exhaust this would be replaced with a
downward-turning mixing elbow where the raw water is injected into
the exhaust.

Vertical Stack
Non-jacketed
Exhaust
System

Marine Cooling System

Engine Expansion Tank

Dry manifolds must be

wrapped with insulation.

Fig. 8-2. Manifolds without a water jacket are often wrapped with a heat-
insulating material to guard against fire and injury.

passing through a dry-wrapped exhaust man- systems, such as the ones that exit at the
ifold, making the gases slightly harder for the transom, can be either wet or dry. Vertical
engine to pump. The outer surface of water- systems, where exhaust exits from a stack, are
jacketed manifolds is made of cast iron or always dry.
various steel alloys. This makes the manifold
WET EXHAUST SYSTEMS
more durable and more resistant to bumps
Most recreational boats are equipped with
and abrasion than the dry-wrapped type.
horizontal exhaust systems plumbed out the
WET AND DRY EXHAUST SYSTEMS transom or the side of the hull. The exhaust
There are many variations on exhaust system gas exits the jacketed exhaust manifold at
designs, but in spite of the numerous config- nearly 450°F, then travels to the water-cooled
urations you’ll find on boats, the systems will elbow where cold raw water is sprayed into
either operate wet or dry. A wet exhaust sys- the hot gas. The raw water rapidly cools the
tem mixes cooling water with exhaust gases, exhaust to a temperature that makes it safe
and a dry exhaust system doesn’t. Horizontal to run the mixture of exhaust and raw water
100 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

through the stern of the boat. This cooling are ideal for performing the following five
will reduce the volume of exhaust gases by at functions:
least half. 1. Remove exhaust gases from the engine
However, the amount of water coming and take them away from the boat
through with the exhaust requires that wet 2. Keep sound levels low
exhaust systems usually must go up one pipe 3. Allow heat from the engine room to
size, rather than down a size, when compared escape by rising alongside the exhaust pipe
to a dry exhaust system. See Fig. 3-10 of a and muffler (silencer). The accompanying
water-cooled exhaust elbow. Figure 8-3 shows drawing (Fig. 8-5) shows several features of a
an application of a wet exhaust system in a complete exhaust system going up the stack.
boat with its exhaust outlet above the water- 4. Keep the surface temperature of the entire
line. The muffler is a simple in-line type that exhaust system low, by way of insulation, to
the water and exhaust gases flow through. avoid fire hazards and injury to crew. The
The top two drawings in Figure 8-4 show system must be insulated high enough, some-
water-lift mufflers in boats with engines times including the muffler (silencer), so that
below the waterline. Both of these systems heat is prevented from being radiated into the
require a siphon break line designed to stop galley wall or other living spaces.
water from entering the engine through the 5. Allow the entire assembly to lengthen
exhaust manifold when the engine is turned and shorten as the system warms and
off. The bottom of the three drawings shows cools through the use of flexible tubing
a water-lift muffler in an application where joints. Any flexes used in a horizontal run
the engine is well above the waterline. Be of pipe incorporate an inner shield made of
sure to consult a specialist with your exact tubing. This tube is only welded all the way
requirements. around the upstream portion to allow for
expansion and contraction of the system.
DRY EXHAUST SYSTEMS The purpose of the inner liner is to keep
Vertical exhaust systems are always dry and the bellows of the flex from filling with
constructed from steel pipe or tubing. They soot and breaking.

Jacketed Exhaust
Manifold Coolant
Expansion Tank
Raw Water Into
Exhaust Pipe

Heat
Exchanger Raw
Muffler Water In
Waterline

Fig. 8-3. A wet exhaust system with in-line muffer.

 MARINE EXHAUST SYSTEMS 101

Siphon Break Line

Raw-Water Into
Exhaust Pipe
Waterline

Jabsco
Raw-Water
Pump
Water-lift Muffler

Siphon Break Line

Raw-Water Into
Exhaust Pipe
Waterline

Water-lift Muffler

No siphon break line needed

when engine is above waterline

Waterline Water-lift Muffler

Fig. 8-4. Three simplified applications with water-lift mufflers. Top: Engine below
waterline; exhaust loops above waterline; raw water injected above
waterline with siphon break. Middle: Engine below waterline; raw water
injected below waterline with siphon break. Bottom: Engine and exhaust
above waterline. Note: These are generalized—be sure to consult a
specialist.

Exhaust systems in boats are far heavier careful design for the mounting and support
than those used in trucks. For example, let’s system.
compare a fishing boat or large motoryacht
with a truck. Each is powered by a Caterpillar Expansion
3406 diesel engine. The exhaust system in the Dry exhaust systems typically vent gases
boats can be ten times heavier and five times up a vertical stack. The main consideration
longer than the one in the truck, requiring with this part of the system is expansion
102 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Cat, the intake valves are so large and such a

short distance from the intake manifold that
they are tremendously loud.
What we did for Tony was buy a heavy blan-
ket of sound-deadening material, like the kind
found in the cabs of earthmovers. The material
The outer stack cover channels rainwater is called “barrier de-coupler,” and it absorbs
to the bottom of the outer pipe and then
out through a hole at the bottom.
sound waves rather than reflecting them. This
1-inch-thick blanket was carefully fitted so it
covered the top of the engine, and extended
Solid over the valve covers and exhaust manifolds
Mount
and down both sides of the engine. Provision
Exhaust Flex Solid was made to ensure that the material was a
Mount
Under Insulation safe distance from the jacketed exhaust mani-
folds and any other warm parts of the engine.
We also made an intake air system adapter
lined with the same barrier de-coupler material
Diesel shaped to allow air into the engine without let-
Engine
ting much sound escape. It worked better than
we had hoped. It was quite comfortable and
Fig. 8-5. Vertical exhaust system. quiet in the cabin while the boat was under way.
Air Movement
Into Engine

FOR THE WORKBOAT Diesel Air Intake

Engine Silencing Air In

Tony’s marine 8V92 Detroit Diesel engine

was too noisy, and he wanted to do something Sound Waves
Emanating
about it. He asked if we could put a better muf- Outward
fler on the engine exhaust system. The 8V92 Intake
Detroit is known for being loud, but after a little Silencer
research we found that most of the noise was
actually coming from the air-intake system.
Sound-Absorbing
There are at least two types of marine engines Insulation
that have especially noisy air intakes: any two-
stroke Detroit Diesel, and the 3208 Cat diesel.
In the case of the Detroit, the engine’s blower Fig. 8-6. A schematic section through an air-intake
is responsible for supplying the cylinders with silencer. The inverted cone inside the
fresh air, and it’s very noisy. In the case of the cylindrical silencer absorbs the sound waves.
 MARINE EXHAUST SYSTEMS 103

(lengthening) of the steel pipe when it is solid brackets is taken up by these flexible
heated, and contraction (shortening) when it components as the system warms. Flexible
cools. Consider a vessel with an exhaust sys- mounts allow the exhaust pipe to slide in
tem fifteen feet long. The steel pipe and the either direction as the system expands and
muffler (silencer) between the engine and contracts.
the top of the pipe elongate up to 1 inch as the
system reaches full operating temperature. BACK-PRESSURE
The expansion is quite forceful and will dam- Since the downstream end of the exhaust
age the system. Pipe hangers that allow for system is open to the atmosphere, hot gases
changes in the length of the exhaust pipe, flex should rise from the engine and exit at the top
joints, and a combination of solid and flexible of the pipe, working much like a fireplace and
pipe mounts compensate for expansion and chimney. However, sometimes restrictions
contraction. hinder the upward flow of hot gases, which in
Stanley Wolrich of Harbor Welding, in turn causes high exhaust pressure at the engine
Kodiak, Alaska, warns against installing end of the system. This is called back-pressure,
exhaust flexes in torsion. They can take and it was briefly discussed in Chapter 2.
expansion and contraction, but not a twist- As mentioned in that chapter, back-pressure
ing force (Fig. 8-7). You should orient the flex can lower an engine’s power output. In older
joint athwartships, not fore and aft. engines, it causes black smoke. Back-pressure
The solid brackets used to mount a dry can occur in wet or dry exhaust systems in
exhaust pipe are always used in conjunction gasoline and diesel engines.
with flex joints and flexible brackets as shown Back-pressure is usually measured with
in Fig. 8-5. Lengthening of the pipe between a manometer, which works something like
a barometer. Inside the manometer are par-
Flex allel columns of water or elemental (liquid)
Coupling
mercury. Pressure coming in on one side of
Correct Installation of Flex:
the manometer is going to move one column
As the engine twists in the
soft motor mounts around down and the other column up. Comparing
the centerline of the
Engine crankshaft, the flex can the difference in height between the col-
seen from
rear
lengthen or compress. umns provides a pressure measurement, as
discussed in Chapter 16. The resulting mea-
surement will be in inches (or millimeters) of
water or mercury, depending on the type of
manometer.
Incorrect Installation: Each engine manufacturer specifies the
As the engine flexes in the amount of exhaust back-pressure that is
soft mounts it puts torsional
strain on the flex and will allowed, and it is generally in the range of
soon break it.
20 inches of water. Again, too much back-
Fig. 8-7. Don’t put an exhaust flex joint in torsion. Mount it pressure will drastically lower any engine’s
athwartships on a propulsion engine. available power.
104 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Exhaust pipe Is So Close to Engine,

It Is Heating the Intake Air Plumbing

Fig. 8-8. Tight bends and close quarters.

Most exhaust systems have a small plug on will often still need a 5- or 6-inch exhaust system,
a straight stretch of the exhaust pipe, within depending on the manufacturer’s recommenda-
24 inches of the turbocharger, if the engine tions. The exhaust gases are superheated and easy
is so equipped. Connect your manometer to to pump at the turbo. As they cool in the exhaust
the port with a section of copper tubing and system, they get much harder to pump, and there-
run the engine at full power long enough to fore need to make a transition to a much larger
determine the amount of backpressure. exhaust pipe diameter.
Sizing of silencers is a science. The follow-
SILENCERS AND MUFFLERS
ing factors are involved:
In boats, a steel muffler is called a silencer and
a rubber muffler is called just that, a muffler. • the amount of exhaust gas coming out of
Steel exhaust silencers come in several grades, the engine at full rated power and speed
and grades delivering quiet performance cost • the inside diameter and length of the
more. Exhaust silencers trap sound waves steel exhaust pipe
and turn them back into heat without overly • the number of bends in the exhaust pipe;
restricting the flow of gases. it also matters whether bends are 45, 90,
Note: Don’t be misled by the 3-inch diam- or 180 degrees, as shown (Fig. 8-8)
eter exhaust outlet on your turbocharger, if you • the level of desired silencing
have one! An engine with a 3-inch turbo outlet
 CHAPTER 9
RUDDERS AND STEERING

It is amazing how often recreational and even understand your steering system and how it
professional mariners neglect the steering sys- works, and schedule regular inspections and
tems on their boats. It is an out-of-sight, out- maintenance. This chapter will provide you
of-mind situation that can lead to calamity, or, with information about various steering sys-
at best, inconvenience and expensive repairs. tems and how they work in tandem with the
From a safety standpoint, the steering system rudder.
ranks close to the top of the list in terms of
importance. If a vessel loses steerage at sea, ALL ABOUT RUDDERS
it will drift at the mercy of wind and waves. Most conventional vessels are equipped
If it loses steerage in a busy harbor or near with an aft-mounted rudder consisting of
rocks, quick action will be necessary to avoid a single blade attached to a vertical metal
serious trouble. Take the time to thoroughly shaft (Fig. 9-1).

Fig. 9-1. The rudder of this steel motoryacht is mounted on a vertical rudderpost, or shaft. A shoe
extends aft from the keel to capture and support the post’s bottom end.

105
106 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

The rudder typically swings up to 45 degrees Because the rudder is crucial to a vessel’s
either side of its centered position. At maxi- safety and utility, serious thought should
mum angle, the rudder is said to be hard over be given to its design. The most common
with its largest surface area exposed to the catastrophic steering system failures usu-
flow of water. The greatest force is generated ally involve the rudder shaft and its connec-
along its leading edge, and the force dimin- tions. While rubber-lined bearings—as in
ishes as the flow of water moves aft toward a stern tube—are sometimes used for the
the trailing edge. rudderpost, a solid brass or high-density
The earliest rudders were fastened by their plastic is a far better bearing material for this
leading edge to the transom, the sternpost, or application.
the after end of a full keel—often with an The top of the rudderpost comes up
aperture cut out for the propeller. This design through the hull by way of a stuffing box with
shadows the leading edge and leaves the rud- a packing gland. The top of the rudderpost is
der unbalanced. Early rudders were not very keyed or squared off to allow the attachment
effective, especially when made of wood. of the tiller (lever arm). The steering cylinder

Fig. 9-2. A rudder hung from the after edge of the full keel on a traditional sailboat.
 RUDDERS AND STEERING 107

Fig. 9-3. This wooden rudder hung on the back of a keel looks like a jerry-built
arrangement.

attaches to the tiller. Figure 9-4 shows the til- Foil rudders: According to Lowell
ler detached during steering system repairs. Stambaugh of Deflector Marine Rudder,
The steering system requires robust com- Naselle, Washington, foil shapes, such as
ponents to perform dependably. Resist the those developed by the National Aeronautics
temptation to cut corners. The boat’s steering and Space Administration (NASA), are far
system is a poor place to save a few dollars. superior to plate rudders. Foils pass through
Figure 9-5 is an example of an inefficient rud- air or water more easily than other shapes.
der design with a very small leading edge. The thicker forward section of the foil
diminishes the buffeting effects of prop
RUDDER SHAPES wash. Foil-shaped rudders work best for
Flat plate rudders: A powerboat rudder works slower vessels.
in the turbulent environment behind the pro- Wedge rudders: In contrast to a foil, ves-
peller and can be made of metal or any material sels cruising at speeds in excess of thirty knots
durable enough to withstand heavy loads. require a sharp, wedge-shaped rudder.
108 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 9-4. The top of the rudderpost and a hydraulic steering cylinder are clearly visible in this photo.
The rudder arm has been detached from the post so that the rudderpost stuffing box can be
repacked. The arm is hanging from the far end of the cylinder and is not clearly visible.

leading edge

Fig. 9-5. A small leading edge is inefficient.

 RUDDERS AND STEERING 109

Flap rudders: Rudders designed with an the rudder begins exerting force against the
articulating hinged flap on the trailing edge water flow. The balance area (leading edge) of
are twice as effective as flat plate or wedge this type of rudder—the portion of the total
rudders. Such designs can reduce a vessel’s blade area ahead of the rudder shaft—can be
minimum turning circle by 50 percent with- made larger and more aggressive, with up to
out increasing the size of the rudder. 38 percent of the total rudder area located
Articulating or flap rudders (Fig. 9-6) are forward of the leading edge. This makes the
called high-lift rudders, in the sense that an boat much easier to steer.
aircraft wing with adjustable flaps is a high- Plate, wedge, and flap rudders each have
lift wing. Incidentally, the underpinnings in their own benefits and liabilities, and they
the science of aerodynamics and hydrody- share factors that influence performance
namics are essentially the same. The main regardless of rudder type. For example, let’s
difference between them is that water is 840 take a brief look at how speed impacts steer-
times denser than air. ing ability. When a hull is moving at eight
Flap rudders share some things with their knots or more, the speed is sufficient to cre-
less elegant cousins in that the high pres- ate enough force so that even a small rudder
sure concentrates on the leading edge, and will work. However, most steering maneu-
the pressure diminishes as the water moves vers occur at slower speeds. The water flow
aft along the rudder surface. But with flap past the rudder is slower and exerts less force,
rudders, sometimes referred to as deflec- requiring a larger rudder to compensate in
tor rudders, the angling out of the flap from terms of turning power.
the trailing edge creates a secondary high- There are many hull sizes and shapes, and
pressure area to enhance steering ability. rudders to fit each one. For a powerboat a
While the trailing edge of the conventional proper rudder should be shaped to redirect
rudder is loafing, the flap of the deflector rud- prop wash. Proper rudder shape and place-
der is doing double duty when the back of ment facilitates this. The aspect ratio (the
rudder’s height compared to its width) of
Steering Cylinder
most rudders is typically 2:1. In other words,
Articulating
the rudder is usually twice as tall as its fore-
Link and-aft dimension. (See Fig. 9-7.) For a very
shallow boat the ratio will probably be closer
to 1:1, or almost square.
Hinge The blade portion ahead of the rudder
shaft (on the leading edge) is the balance area
of the rudder (Fig. 9-8), described above. The
size of this section determines whether a ves-
sel is easy or hard to steer. For boats cruis-
ing in excess of twelve knots, the balance area
on the leading edge of the rudder should be
Fig. 9-6. Articulating (flap) rudder. 15 or 20 percent of the total surface area of
110 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

Fig. 9-7. Rudder with a 2:1 aspect ratio.

the blade. The rule is that slower boats need Helm

Pump
more balance area and faster boats need
Steering Cylinder
less. Displacement boats requiring excellent
maneuvering ability can have a balance area
as much as 25 percent of the total surface
area of the blade.
Increased balance area reaches across the
centerline of the boat and grabs more water.
This is a great aid for maneuvers executed at
low speeds. Proper balance area also dimin- Balance area ahead
of rudder shaft
ishes the load at the tiller and therefore the
helm.
Fig. 9-8. Balance area of the rudder’s leading edge. Notice
Consider the relative pressures around a
too the helm pump, which is powered by the
rudder to see why some rudders work bet- skipper’s movement of the helm and sends oil to the
ter than others. Recall that for a given vessel hydraulic steering cylinder.
 RUDDERS AND STEERING 111

(displacement hull type) and rudder size, A small or poorly designed rudder can stall
a rudder that is deeper in the water will be at less than 12 degrees from the centered
more resistant to stall. This is due to the position.
greater water “head” pressure surrounding Because of this possibility, many design-
the rudder. Raise the same rudder three feet, ers believe rudders should only be able to
on the same boat, and the rudder will tend to swing 30 degrees from the centerline of the
stall more often. boat, which will decrease the chances of a
Again, this concept is similar to the stall stall. However, the best rudder designs will
speed of an aircraft. With the flaps down, provide for more rudder travel rather than
stall is avoided at a lower airspeed. less. An effective rudder that still resists
When a hull resists turning for any rea- stalling needs a total swing range of up to
son, the conventional rudder begins to stall as 90 degrees.
the water in the low-pressure area behind the Rudder effectiveness is also important for
rudder becomes turbulent. This condition tracking. Good tracking saves fuel, gets the
can progress to a full stall, and the rudder will boat to its destination faster, and makes for a
temporarily lose its grip. more comfortable ride. When a hull veers off
Notice that rudder A in Figure 9-9 has a track, the boat may roll and present either its
vacuum (negative pressure), which indicates right or left side to the oncoming water. This
turbulence and a stall condition on the right results in drag and heeling. If the steering sys-
side, while rudder B creates more positive tem is slow to react, you can actually lose con-
pressure on the left side and avoids extremely trol of the boat. It’s a bit like a bicycle rider
low pressure on the right side of the rudder. who is slow to react. He wobbles, and one
The rudder cavitates (pulls a pocket of wobble prompts another, until he tumbles.
air or a void in the water behind it) during
a stall. A swift, temporary loss of steering is STEERING ACTUATION
usually the result of a stalled rudder. If you Most rudders move through force applied
think you’re in a stall, ease the rudder angle. to a tiller (lever arm). The simplest steer-
The rudder will bite into the water again. ing system consists of a rudder with a tiller

A 5 PSI B 5 PSI

Rudderpost
Rudderpost

Articulating Link
2 PSI 4 PSI
Direction
–2 PSI 1 PSI
of Travel

Conventional Deflector
Rudder Rudder

Fig. 9-9. The response of a conventional rudder (left) versus a deflector rudder
in a difficult turn. The deflector rudder’s articulating link helps prevent
a stall.
112 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

attached to the rudderpost, and turning is This type of system employs a manual pump
accomplished by pushing the tiller right or that is turned by a steering wheel. Rotating
left. Anyone who has ever sailed a small boat the wheel sends oil to a ram (steering cylinder)
knows that the forces exerted on the rudder attached to the tiller. Changing the diameter
can be quite strong, requiring lots of muscle of the steering wheel can change the steering
to control the tiller. On larger boats, the forces effort of these types of systems. Most of these
exerted on the rudder and transferred to the fixed-displacement pumps move from 11/2 to
tiller or lever arm would easily overpower 4 cubic inches of oil volume per revolution of
even a strong person. Mechanical advantage the wheel.
is needed, and sophisticated and powerful There are also variable displacement steer-
systems have been designed to provide it. ing pumps, which allow for adjustment of
Let’s take a look at some of them. the steering effort. Whether fixed or variable,
Rack-and-pinion steering is common on displacement steering pumps do not work
small boats because it’s designed for light- well with autopilots. It is very strange that
duty applications, making it less costly to while the smallest automobiles have hydraulic
manufacture. A steering wheel is attached power steering, the owners of 20-ton boats
to a pinion gear, which moves a rack bar want manual steering!
attached to a cable extending to the tiller. The Manual hydraulic steering systems do
system usually includes a drag brake to allow not work well on large vessels, where they
you to temporarily set the helm on a certain fail to provide the optimal combination of
heading. mechanical advantage and quick steering. Big
Cable-and-sprocket systems often fea- boats need power steering, and there are two
ture a cable quadrant (one-quarter of the types. The first includes an automotive-type
diameter of a pulley), though there are many hydraulic pump driven by a PTO from the
custom systems employing sprockets, rotat- main engine (Fig. 9-10). It is simple and eco-
ing shafts, and even automotive worm gears. nomical, and parts for repairs can be generic,
These systems are complicated and difficult which means that several manufacturers
and expensive to adapt for use with an auto- supply them.
pilot. In contrast, hydraulic steering systems Steering pressures are usually limited
are simple, strong, and more easily coupled to 1,000 psi to allow for pressure spikes. A
with an autopilot. cross-port pressure relief is usually provided
Rack-and-pinion mechanisms, rotary actu- and can be adjusted to lower pressure for
ators, T-rams, and rotary vane actuators are manually steering with an emergency tiller.
good at transmitting steering force to turn the Another solution for emergency steering is
rudder shaft without causing extreme side valving configured so as to direct hydraulic
loading on the rudderpost. Rotary vanes are fluid around the cross-port pressure relief,
the best solution out of these four systems, eliminating the need to make adjustments.
but they are costly. The second, more elaborate type of hydrau-
The most common steering for vessels lic steering uses an electrically driven power
under fifty feet in length is manual hydraulic. steering pump that works independently of
 RUDDERS AND STEERING 113

Spring-to-center 15 amp breaker

three-pole solenoid
control toggle switch

Battery
Steering
cylinder

Return
filter
Tank
Steering
Open center
pump
4-way
solenoid
Cross-port pressure relief valve

Fig. 9-10. Power-assisted hydraulic system.

the main engine. These are used on larger in the rod, with the rod protruding out both
motoryachts and workboats, most often with ends. This equalizes the volume on both sides
a reversing motor to provide power assist to aof the piston. Otherwise, the system would
manual-hydraulic steering system. The ability require fewer turns, develop less power, and
to reverse the pump eliminates the need for a move faster in one direction than the other.
DC four-way valve. Steering rams for boats in this size range
The power available from a DC-assisted come with bores as small as 11/4 inches in
system is limited, however, relegating it to diameter. However, the diameter can get to
light-duty applications. For heavy-duty steer-3 inches in some applications. These cylinders
ing there are two options: a pump driven by tolerate poor alignment, especially when
the main engine (as in Fig. 9-10) or an AC equipped with a spherical rod end. Spherical
electric motor driving a non-reversing pump. rod ends should be used because they elimi-
Non-reversing fixed-displacement systems nate lash or slack in the linkage. Clevises
work well when coupled to autopilots and are inferior to a spherical rod end for this
are easy to adapt. They are suitable for ves- application.
sels above sixty feet in length. A continuous Steering systems for larger boats use unbal-
source of AC power is required to run them. anced cylinders in pairs, with one on each
More elaborate variable-displacement pumps side of the tiller. This is better for geometri-
and AC reversing motors are available, but cal reasons. When the tiller moves toward
they are beyond the scope of this discussion. the extreme of its travel, the angle between
the ram and the tiller becomes oblique. This
RAMS transmits a large portion of the ram force as
The most popular rams (steering cylinders) a side load on the rudderpost, and it is even
for boats under sixty feet are comprised of a worse in single cylinder applications.
balanced, spherical yoke-mounted cylinder. The outboard end of a steering cylinder
A balanced cylinder has the piston centered should be installed so as to be slightly forward
114 PART 1: SYSTEMS OVERVIEW

the compass after the boat is pushed off

Tillers
Steering Ram
course, making it less responsive in adverse
Notice
Rudderpost the conditions.
Offset
Most modern autopilots consist of com-
Fig. 9-11. Hydraulic steering ram configuration. puter microprocessors that receive inputs from
a compass for heading, and a tiller-mounted
of its inboard end when the tiller arm is point- potentiometer that feeds back the rudder posi-
ing directly aft. This will put the cylinder at right tion. There is a common misconception that
angles to the tiller arm when the rudder is hard large boats need more autopilot capacity and
over to port or starboard, which is when small boats need less. However, the opposite is
maximum leverage is needed (Fig. 9-11). true. Small boats change their headings much
What type and size must steering compo- more quickly and need more responsiveness
nents be? Only experience and a comparative from the autopilot, not less. Keeping a boat on
analysis will tell. Properly specifying the dis- track in any kind of seaway requires fast and
placement of the components and arranging powerful rudder responses. Windage (wind
them to work well will result in an effective resistance) makes the autopilot’s job more dif-
system. When planning a steering system, ficult, and it should be considered when sizing
boatowners should rely on the best informa- an autopilot for your boat.
tion and professionals to do the design work. Where fuel economy is concerned, it
One needs to be well informed in the science is vital to have the autopilot tuned to keep
and principles of steering to shop well. Many the vessel on the right heading. Many ves-
otherwise fine vessels are burdened with poor sels zigzag their way home, actually traveling
handling characteristics because of poor rud- far more miles than needed. Every time the
der design and poorly engineered steering side of the boat is presented to the direction
systems. of travel, fuel economy suffers. The effect of
even a large amount of rudder drag is very
AUTOPILOTS small compared to the excess drag involved
Good crew at the helm see waves coming and with a poorly tracking boat. No matter what
anticipate the preemptive action required brand of autopilot is used, be sure yours has
to keep the boat tracking well. The auto- a very steady input compass and a high-qual-
pilot can’t, and thus must wait for input from ity rudder angle indicator (RAI).
PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

115
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 CHAPTER 10
ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM

Troubleshooting is problem solving. It’s the

process of reducing the number of possible into an engine—do not use this above an open
causes of engine problems to the smallest engine!
10. Telescoping magnet
number of probable causes. This chapter uses 11. Variety of high-quality nylon zip-ties
a conventional approach to troubleshooting (note: cheap ones look identical but
quite similar to the way troubleshooting mate- soon fail)
rial is presented in engine service manuals; in 12. Ultra-gray silicone sealer
13. More white correction fluid
Chapter 11 the methods used will be rather 14. Hose clamp tightening driver that fits in No. 39
unconventional, employing the five senses. 15. 3/8" ratchet
16. Multimeter
17. Shallow and deep metric 3/8" drive 6-point sockets
18. 3M-brand electrical tape
BASIC TOOLS 19. Red heat-shrink tubing
20. Adjustable wrench with jaws drilled to accept
It is important to carry basic tools with you 1/ " spanner dowels
8
so that you can dig in and find the problem. 21. Nylon pot webbing—very strong
The photo on page 118 shows the tools I carry 22. Medium-sized Vise-Grip locking pliers
23. Side cutters—note how hinge pin was center
on every troubleshooting trip. The tools and punched three times to tighten the joint
toolbox weigh 36 pounds, a weight that is 24. Medium sheet-metal shear
easy to manage one-handed while climbing 25. Waterproof LED flashlight
aboard. The tools are listed below to help with 26. Metric Allen wrench set
identification. 27. Thread locking compound
28. Fuel sightglass for finding air in the fuel in
1. Small and surprisingly powerful butane diesel engines
torch 29. Short ruler in inches and millimeters
2. White correction fluid—this paint works well to 30. Standard angle screwdriver
mark valves that have been adjusted during a 31. Coarse point black marker
tune-up 32. Feeler gauge
3. Electrical pliers for cutting, stripping wires, 33. Very fine point black marker
and crimping terminals 34. Needle-nose pliers with wire cutter
4. Stainless steel serrated knife 35. Small Vise-Grip needle nose
5. Long chisel 36. Earplugs
6. Medium ball-peen hammer 37. Standard Allen wrench set
7. Channel-lock adjustable pliers 38. 8-foot tape measure
8. Extra hose clamps 39. Multi-point screwdriver with locking tips that
9. Multi-tip screwdriver that works well for hose cannot fall into an engine
clamps—caution these tips can and will fall 40. Metric and standard combination wrenches

117
118 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 10-1. A basic tool collection (see page 117).

The following pages cover general trouble- DIESEL ENGINES

shooting for diesel and gasoline engines, with The following section lists specific prob-
discussions on low-power issues, hard starts, lems you may encounter when operating
and engine teardowns. Outboards and vacuum a diesel engine and identifies probable
testing four-stroke gasoline engines will also causes. For details on how to proceed
be addressed. after narrowing down the probable cause,
In this chapter we will be pulling and prod- see the index of this book or refer to the
ding the engine’s wires, belts, and hoses and appropriate section in your engine service
really looking things over. We’ll be watching manual.
for things that look great on the outside, but
are faulty, such as the coolant hose in Figure ENGINE MISSES
10-2. This hose was very close to failure, hav- Probable causes:
ing been destroyed by electrical activity in the • Air in the fuel
coolant, but someone happened to look inside • Water in the fuel
and catch it in time. It’s important to change • Faulty valve seat
the coolant regularly and add conditioner to • Faulty injector
stop electrical activity in the coolant. • Faulty injection pump
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 119

Fig. 10-2. Faulty coolant will destroy hoses. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

ENGINE KNOCKS • Piston rings and cylinder walls severely

Probable causes: rusted due to water in the cylinder (see
• Spun connecting rod bearing Fig. 10-3)
• Wrong fuel injection timing • Too long a bolt or fastener inserted too
• Injector tip, glow-plug end, valve head, deeply into the engine or timing gears
or other object in the cylinder intake, hindering crankshaft movement
or exhaust valve stuck open and piston
striking it ENGINE LOW ON POWER SEE ALSO
• Severely worn engine bearings SECTION BELOW
• Extreme crankshaft end play Probable causes:
• Extreme clearance between cylinder • Air filter restricted or plugged with
wall and piston dust and soot
• Collapsed muffler (silencer) or exhaust pipe
ENGINE LOCKED UP, OR CRANKSHAFT • Wrong fuel in engine
WILL TURN JUST A LITTLE • Air in the fuel
Probable causes: • Water in the fuel
• Hydraulic lock with coolant, water, or • Plugged fuel filter or restricted fuel
fuel on top of a piston lines on the suction side, pressure side,
• Object on top of a piston or return side of fuel system
120 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 10-3. Rust in cylinder walls caused by rainwater entering through an exhaust stack. (Courtesy Wilkies Equipment,
Anchorage, Alaska)

• Faulty fuel injection timing, injection • Poor ground between engine and
pump, or injector, or faulty adjustment battery
of injection pump or injector • Low or no fuel, wrong fuel type, air in
• Faulty turbocharger fuel, or fuel filter plugged
• Low compression due to cylinder • Injection pump faulty or water damaged
damage • Fuel injection timing wrong, low injec-
• Valve clearance too much or too little, tion pump pressure, or poor atomizing
adjustment is set too loose or too tight of fuel by injectors
• Faulty throttle linkage doesn’t pull • Low compression due to piston ring
governor lever to full fuel flow and cylinder wear
• Exhaust pipe covered or blocked
ENGINE STARTS HARD • Injection pump shutdown linkage
Probable causes: stuck in the off position
• Low battery charge causes slow cranking • Valve clearance setting too tight or too
speed loose
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 121

EXCESSIVE BLACK EXHAUST COOLANT TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH,

Probable causes: LOW COOLANT LEVEL
• Plugged air filter Probable causes:
• Excessive fuel delivery by pump or • Thermostat faulty and not opening
injectors • Keel cooler plugged internally, kinked,
• Insufficient atomization of fuel by the or bent
injector • Heat exchanger core plugged, or water
• Engine overloaded and lugging inlet plugged
• Exhaust system restricted due to a
collapsed muffler, or pipes with too ENGINE OVERHEATING, YET COOL
small a diameter or too many tight ANT TEMPERATURE READS NORMAL
bends OR LOW
Probable causes:
EXCESSIVE BLUE EXHAUST • Faulty gauge
Probable causes: • Cooling system has large amount of air
• Piston rings and cylinders extremely in it, displacing coolant
worn
LOW OIL PRESSURE
• Extremely worn valve guides and seals
Probable causes:
• Faulty oil seals in turbocharger
• Low oil level or no oil in crankcase
• Engine overfilled with oil
• Wrong viscosity of oil or oil diluted
with fuel
EXCESSIVE WHITE EXHAUST
• Oil pump pressure relief valve stuck open
Probable causes:
• Crankshaft bearings extremely worn
• Low compression
• Faulty gauge gives wrong reading when
• Late injection timing
oil pressure is actually OK
• Water in the fuel or poor fuel quality
HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION
EXHAUST WHITE, BUT HAS A SLIGHT Probable causes:
YELLOW CAST • Worn cylinder, pistons, and rings
Probable cause: Antifreeze entering the • Faulty turbocharger oil seals
cylinder as engine runs, due to a faulty cylinder • Worn valve guides and valve stem seals
head gasket or broken casting • Incorrect lubricating oil
• Plugged oil drain-back holes in cylin-
COOLANT TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH, der head causing valve guide oil leakage
LOW COOLANT FLOW • Engine overfilled with oil
Probable causes:
• Coolant pump not turning, loose water POOR FUEL ECONOMY
pump belt if so equipped Probable causes:
• Pump impeller slipping on shaft, • Restricted air filter or exhaust flow
broken, or reduced in size by corrosion • Wrong fuel injection timing setting
122 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

• Either too much or too little pitch or

diameter on the propeller rather than hydraulic lifters and screw-
• Cylinder pressure abnormally low thread adjusters. Measure, or closely esti-
• Fuel leaking into bilge (easy to smell) mate, the length of the valve pushrods and
• Engine in a poor state of tune; valve use the following method to assign temporary
adjustments too loose or tight, or fuel valve adjustment specifications to your engine.
injection timing is wrong The valve pushrods on the intake and exhaust
valve mechanisms are usually the same
length. Multiply the length (in inches) of the
intake valve pushrod by two to get the valve
WORK-AROUND SOLUTION—ENGINES clearance in thousandths of an inch. For exam-
WITH MECHANICAL LIFTERS ple, the intake valve clearance for a 10-inch-long
pushrod would be the following: 10 ⫻ 2 = 20, or
Adjusting Valves on the Exchange of 0.020 (20 thousandths of an inch).
Rocker Arms One Cylinder at a Time Since the exhaust side of the engine runs
There are a number of ways to adjust engine hotter than the intake side, the valve mecha-
valves on gasoline or diesel engines. The first, nism elongates due to the heat, and the valve
of course, is the one you’ll find in the engine clearance must be greater. Therefore, we will
manual. The manual will suggest adjusting the use a multiplier of 2.5 for the exhaust valve
valves after a certain number of engine hours adjustment specification: 10 ⫻ 2.5 = 25, or
and will provide the required valve adjustment 0.025 (25 thousandths of an inch).
specifications as well as instructions. You will Setting the valve clearances a little loose
need a feeler gauge, screwdriver, and a lock- (excess clearance) won’t damage the engine.
nut wrench for the adjusting screw. Setting them too tightly, though, with insuffi-
Valve Clearance Adjustment cient clearance, will harm the valve seats. The
Pushrod
Rocker Arm
above method is liberal enough with clearance
Valve to serve on a temporary basis, but you don’t want
Clearance to run that way for long. As soon as you can,
adjust the clearance to factory specifications.
Valve Spring
When a feeler gauge can’t be found, there
is another way to determine and set the
clearance. Take a ruler or tape measure and
count the number of threads per inch on the
valve adjustment screw. For example, on
a screw with 20 threads per inch, one turn
will advance the screw 0.050 inch (50 thou-
Fig. 10-4. Cylinder head and valve components. sandths of an inch). Therefore, adjusting the
screw one-half turn would equal 0.025 inch
Sometimes the engine manual is not avail- (25 thousandths of an inch). Likewise, one-
able. When this is the case, there is a method quarter turn will advance the screw 0.0125
that will work on all engines with mechanical inch (12.5 thousandths of an inch).
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 123

1 inch cylinder head to each valve on each cylinder.

Make a list to help keep track of the arrange-
ment. For example, from front to rear, the
valves on the four-cylinder engine may be
20 threads arranged with the intake all on one side and
the exhaust on the other, or they may alter-
1 inch = 1,000 thousands of an inch.
This screw has 20 threads per inch. nate. As you mark the rocker arms, you may
1 inch divided by 20 = .050" per turn. see the pattern is IE, IE, IE, IE, or you may
Therefore, each turn of the screw advances see it alternate to look like IE, EI, IE, EI. It all
it .050" (50 thousands of an inch). depends on the design of a particular engine.
Fig. 10-5. Calculating travel per turn of the screw. Do not proceed any further until you can posi-
tively identify intakes versus exhaust valves. It
To use this method with the specifications may take a call to your engine dealer.
above, the exhaust valve adjusting screw After identifying and marking the valve
would be turned clockwise enough to eliminate rockers, begin at the first valve at the front
all slack or clearance from the mechanism of the engine. Remember, the flywheel is at
(known as zero lash), and then the screw would the rear of the engine and the cooling pump
be backed off almost one-half turn for a clear- is generally in the front. Turn the engine to
ance of 0.020 inch. The intake valve adjusting rotate the crankshaft until the tip of the first
screw, on the other hand, would be backed off rocker arm touching the valve stem rocks
slightly more than one-quarter turn from zero downward to the bottom of its travel.
lash to get a running clearance of 0.015 inch. To summarize the exchange method: On
Now, to begin the adjustment procedure, any cylinder of any four-stroke engine, be it
consider a four-cylinder diesel engine. Start gasoline or diesel, when one valve rocker is all
by disconnecting the negative battery cable the way to the bottom of its travel, it is safe
to prevent the starter from being energized to adjust the other rocker’s valve clearance
while the valves are adjusted. Then find a way on the same cylinder. The method works by
to bar the engine over before removing the adjusting the valves one cylinder at a time.
valve cover; you will need to gently rotate the
crankshaft as you observe rocker arm travel.
Wipe the oil from the rocker arms so that paint INSUFFICIENT POWER
marks will later adhere. Identify the rocker Fuel Supply
arms and mark them with an “I” for intake
or an “E” for exhaust so appropriate adjust- Low fuel level: When engines develop lows
ments can be made. The engine manual will power problems, check the fuel level first.
show which are intake and exhaust. How much fuel is in the tank? Is the fuel
If no manual is available, look to see how level in the tank below the suction side of the
and where the intake and exhaust mani- engine’s fuel system? Fill the tank and start
fold ports connect to the cylinder head. Then the engine, putting it in gear to see if the low
visualize how the ports must be routed in the power issue has been resolved. If the engine
runs normally, then the problem was related
124 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

to the fuel supply. Lack of fuel can also cause

hard starts, which will be covered later in this Diesel Fuel
chapter.
If the engine was recently worked on, then water and
it is important to consider that as a plausi- contaminants

ble reason for low power. It is possible that Fig. 10-6. Use a plastic bag to test fuel for water.
critical wiring or fuel lines were accidentally
disturbed during the repair. If that isn’t it, Just open the drain cock and pour a little fuel
there are plenty of other potential suspects to into a cup or even a plastic bag (Fig. 10-6), and
consider. water will be easy to spot.
Water in the fuel filter indicates water in
Suction leaks in fittings and water in the tank, and it must be removed. An hour
fuel: When low power accompanies a low fuel of your marine mechanic’s time will go a long
level, it may be a sign of suction leaks allow- way toward solving or preventing water prob-
ing air into the fuel system on the suction side lems in the fuel system. Note: Don’t disperse
of the system. Air enters the system through water in diesel fuel with chemical fuel treat-
loose fuel fittings or pipe fitting threads that ments. The water will pass through the fuel
have not been properly sealed with pipe joint injection system, which you don’t want.
compound. Pipe threads are designed to require
joint compound to seal them. Fuel line sizing: The inner diameter (ID)
To correct problems with pipe thread leaks, of fuel lines, if too small for a given engine,
begin resealing each joint in the incoming fuel can cause low power problems. Some older
line between the fuel tank and the engine. Use boats, for example, might have a 1/2-inch ID
pipe dope instead of Teflon tape on fuel line fuel pipe coming into the engine room. This
plumbing to avoid getting strands of Teflon line may have been enough to feed the origi-
tape in the fuel system. nal engines when the boat was built.
If there is no fuel gauge or the exist- However, over the years, after a boat is
ing one is questionable, dip the tank with a repowered or a generator is added there may
clean dowel or broom handle that will reach be times when one or more of the engines
the bottom. This can be impossible on many surge or seem sluggish. In the case of a gen-
boats, but if it can be done, it should be. It’s erator, the lights may occasionally dim, which
always good to dab the end of the dowel or indicates the generator engine has lost rpm,
broom handle with paste designed to change or the lights may dim when the main engine
color if water is present in the fuel at the bot- is also running because there isn’t enough
tom of the tank. The paste is available at most fuel to supply them both. If this happens, it is
fuel docks. time to upgrade the fuel supply lines to what
If the fuel level is satisfactory and there is the factory specifies for each engine, and then
no water in the fuel, then move on to the fil- go up one pipe size.
ters. When water is present, it will settle to To figure out the correct sizing for fuel
the bottom of a fuel-water separator type filter. lines, first calculate the cross-sectional area of
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 125

the ID of all fuel lines and add them together. Consider installing a sight glass in the
After getting the area of cross section needed fuel system, before the fuel injection pump.
to feed them all, go up to the next higher sized A sight glass helps spot air in the fuel, a big
pipe to allow for an adequate supply of fuel help when troubleshooting low power prob-
for all the engines. Always inspect the fuel lems. The place to install one is between the
return lines and consider upgrading them to low-pressure fuel transfer (lift pump) and
a larger size as well. the high-pressure pump or unit injectors,
Engines with Stanadyne diesel fuel injec- depending on the type of injection system
tion systems will not run with a plugged or on the engine. Be sure to check the pressure
valved-off fuel return line. Most vessels do that the transfer pump produces, and be sure
have a valve on the return line, so check and that the sight glass is rated to handle it. Most
make sure that the return line valve is defi- major engine manufacturers can supply a
nitely open, or the engine will not start. suitable sight glass through their parts sales
organization.
Wrong fuel type: Fuel tanks can also be acci-
After the sight glass is installed and the
dentally filled with the wrong fuel. No. 1 diesel
fuel system is primed according to the engine
fuel is sometimes put in, when the boat really
manual, you should see no air passing through
needs No. 2. This will reduce engine power
the sight glass if the fuel system is sound.
because there is less energy in a gallon of No. 1
If, however, you have run the engine for
fuel than in a gallon of No. 2 diesel fuel.
at least fifteen minutes and you see even one
Diesel-powered boats have been filled
bubble of air, there is a problem with the sys-
with gasoline as well. Unlike gasoline fuel sys-
tem that must be solved. That bubble means
tems, diesel fuel systems have internal parts
that there is at least a 5 percent mixture of air
fitted at almost unimaginably small running
in the fuel.
clearances, and they depend on the lubricity
Electronic fuel system governors have a
of the diesel fuel to lubricate (and cool) the
hard time stabilizing engine speed when there
system. Gasoline has zero lubricating ability
is air in the fuel. This is especially true for
and will quickly destroy a diesel engine’s close-
generator engines, which require extremely
tolerance fuel injection equipment.
precise speed control. When there is air
Air in fuel: Air in the fuel, as mentioned in the fuel, the engine speed drops too low
earlier in relation to it entering the system and the governor responds to increase the
through leaky fittings, will cause an engine to engine speed. If a slug of fuel does happen to
lose power. Air should not be allowed to get get through, the engine speed will suddenly
into fuel lines. When any gets in, bleeding the increase, and then the governor reacts by
lines usually ejects it. However, if the air just reducing speed. This is very bad for engines.
keeps coming, it indicates that the fuel sys- Note: If an engine suddenly develops a start-
tem is pulling air into the fuel on the suction ing problem, and the fuel filters have recently
side of the fuel transfer pump. Examine all been changed, check for air (Fig. 10-7) in the
fuel lines, hoses, fittings, and clamps between engine’s fuel pump and injector lines. Air may
the engine and its fuel supply. have entered the system during the filter change.
126 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 10-7. Use a see-through hose to check for air in the fuel.

As previously mentioned, a sight glass installed the wheelhouse. Now, with the engine off,
on the suction side of the fuel system works nicely pull the engine speed control to full throttle
for checking fuel for air. Some diesel injection and have your helper pull the engine link-
systems are self-bleeding, but most are not. Read age to see if the governor lever on the engine
your engine service manual or work with a local moves farther toward full fuel. If it does,
expert to learn the best way to bleed the engine’s then the throttle control must be repaired or
fuel system before you need to! Knowing this pro- adjusted.
cedure should be considered a safety precaution.
Mufflers and air filters: A collapsed muf-
Other Areas to Check fler (silencer) will reduce engine power by
Governors: The governor control lever on the restricting airflow through the engine, which
engine must move to full fuel when the engine will result in excessive back-pressure. Check
speed control in the wheelhouse is pulled into the back-pressure on the engine exhaust system
the full throttle position. If it doesn’t, the engine every two years. Adequate airflow into and
will appear to suffer from low power problems. through the engine must not be hindered in
To check for trouble with linkage, sta- any way. Many engines have a filter restriction
tion a helper at the engine while you are in gauge on the intake air system that shows red
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 127

THE TOO LONG BOLT

Some time ago, I was called north to Prudhoe Bay to troubleshoot a Caterpillar 3412, a V-12 engine with
very low power. I traveled from Kodiak to Anchorage to Prudhoe Bay by air, arriving at 10:00 a.m. in total
darkness. Lining up to wait for the bus, I found myself in the company of approximately sixty men in a
zombie state, all keeping silently to themselves without making eye contact with anyone. They worked
in the dark for weeks at a time on Alaska’s North Slope. Once on the bus I felt as though I might as well
have been riding to a funeral.
After the bus ride, I rode in a pickup to a remote oil rig. Upon arriving at the rig, where morale was
better, I found that a bolt 1/4-inch too long had been installed in a governor housing. The excess length
protruded into the governor housing and prevented a piece of internal linkage from moving far enough
to give the engine full power.
It took just a few minutes to install a shorter bolt, which let the engine reach full power. That was a
long, expensive trip to make for such a minor fix.

Extra long bolt prevents governor

from moving far enough.

Fig. 10-8. Beware of fasteners that are too long and may interfere with vital components of a system, like a governor.

Fig. 10-9. Bolts that are too long can exert great force and damage the engine. The dimple in this camshaft thrust
bearing was made by an overly long bolt. In this case it did not cause an engine failure, but it could have.
128 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fuel injectors on older engines with lower

FOR THE WORKBOAT pressure fuel systems are easy to short out.
Transmission Slippage Just start the engine and let it idle slowly.
On workboats, don’t forget the trolling valve. Next, using gloves and eye protection, care-
The trolling valve control linkage must be fully and slowly loosen the fuel line nut to
adjusted to remain fully closed when the boat each cylinder one at a time. Place a clean rag
is getting under way for cruising. If it should over each line nut before you loosen it.
hang even partially open while the boat is While working through all of the injec-
moving, the trolling valve will cause clutch tors, it will be obvious that the engine rpm
slippage and the boat will appear to lose drops suddenly on strong cylinders when the
power. This slippage will destroy the clutch
fuel line nut is loosened. However, loosening
discs in just a few minutes of running time at
the fuel line nut on a faulty cylinder will cause
high engine speeds.
little difference in engine rpm. If a tachometer
is available, the exact amount of speed loss for
when the air filter should be serviced; air fil- each cylinder can be recorded as each injec-
ters get loaded with dust and grime. Always tor is shorted out. You can then compare the
check the condition of your air filter to avoid speeds to get a better idea of which cylinders
potential problems with low engine power. need attention.
Caution: It is important to stay away from
Line in the propeller: Like driving a car with
the stream of fuel that leaks out past the loosened
the emergency brake on, line wrapped around
fitting and also have your skin well covered.
the propeller or propeller shaft will make it
High-pressure fuel systems can produce a stream
appear as though the engine has a low power
of fuel that will cut through skin! Serious blood
problem. The best thing to do is to recall how
poisoning can occur from fuel injection under the
much effort it takes to turn the propeller shaft
skin. If the engine’s fuel system produces more
with a pipe wrench, or even by hand, when the
than 2,500 psi, leave this test to a professional.
propeller is free of obstructions. You’ll imme-
Consult the engine manual to find your engine’s
diately notice a difference if the prop is fouled
maximum fuel injection pressure.
because it will take much more effort to turn
Mechanical unit injectors, like Detroit
the shaft, if you can turn it at all.
Diesel injectors, require a different method
Checking the cylinders: In a low power sit- to short them out. Remove the valve cover
uation, it’s easy to assume there is big trouble to provide access. With the engine running
in the engine cylinders. However, unless the at low idle, push a screwdriver down on the
engine is smoking badly, the cylinders may injector’s plunger to hold it seated in the body
well be fine. They are difficult for the average of the injector. As each injector is shorted out,
person to inspect. However, when it is time you will hear the engine slow down slightly if
to check them, there are several ways to do the cylinders are functioning properly. If the
it. The first way is known as shorting out an engine speed remains constant when an injec-
injector. The procedure will help you identify tor is shorted out, then the cylinder in which
faulty cylinders. that injector resides is weak. An alternate
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 129

method is to pry sideways slightly on the air. An extremely loose exhaust valve also lim-
plunger spring retainer to prevent the plunger its the amount of fresh air that can enter the
from popping back up after the rocker arm cylinder by hindering the escape of exhaust
depresses it. gases. If the exhaust gases can’t exit, then the
Electronic unit injectors also require their cylinder can’t get a full charge of fresh air for
own testing method. Check these injectors combustion. Without the ability to develop
using the engine manufacturer’s electronic its rated cylinder pressure, no diesel engine
code reader and let the system tell you which will run properly. There are several types of
cylinder is weak. Caution: Never detach the compression tests to check cylinder pressure.
power wire from an electronic injector because Dynamic compression testers provide a read-
many of the newer systems use over 90 volts ing of cylinder pressure while the engine is
DC. Electrical shock with high levels of DC cranking using its starter. This type of test
voltage is more dangerous than the same level uses a fitting that threads into the injector
of AC voltage. Also, since the injection pressures hole, or a glow-plug hole, if so equipped,
are so high, never hold down an electronic injec- in the cylinder head. When the fitting is
tor plunger! installed and connected to the pressure
All this testing brings us to the next hurdle. gauge with a flexible hose, the test may pro-
If a cylinder is weak, the question is why. Is it ceed. The test consists of cranking the engine
weak because of a bad injector, faulty piston, or with the starter while observing the pressure
even one of the valves? To answer the ques- reading on the gauge. Most diesel engines
tion, try swapping an injector from a bad need a minimum pressure of 400 psi to start
cylinder into a good one. Shorting out the properly.
injector will tell the tale. You will be listen- When a cylinder has low pressure, and
ing for a miss, which is an irregular chugging you’re not sure why, you can do what the old-
sound that tells you the engine is not running timers did and give it the wet test. To perform
smoothly as you troubleshoot. Often a vibra- a wet test, just squirt a little motor oil in the
tion can accompany a miss. cylinder before reattaching the compression
If you switch injectors into a seemingly tester, and see if the pressure increases. If it
good cylinder and it suddenly starts to miss, or does, you know the piston rings are badly
appears weak, then the injector is bad. If the cyl- worn.
inder works fine, then the injector is good and Note: Some engines have such a small com-
the cylinder from which it came is bad. Before bustion chamber volume that a wet com-
condemning it, though, double-check the valve pression test can severely over-pressure the
adjustment, just in case the valve adjustments cylinder. Consult the engine service manual
are set too tightly. A valve set too tight mimics to be sure the wet test is permissible on your
a faulty valve, and a cylinder with a valve set too engine. See page 29 for an illustration com-
tight will not build full pressure. paring combustion chambers in gasoline and
The other extreme is when valves are set diesel engines.
far too loose. A loose intake valve will not Recording compression testers are a variation
open long enough to let in fresh combustion on the tester described above and are widely
130 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

used in Europe. The recording tester con- GASOLINE ENGINES

nects the same way as the compression tester The following section provides the probable
and does the same type of pressure test. The causes for specific problems you may encoun-
difference is that the recording tester graphs ter when operating a gasoline engine. For
the pressure of all the cylinders for easy details on how to proceed after narrowing
comparison. down the probable causes, see the index for
Leak-down testers have two pressure gauges further guidance or refer to the appropriate
and are often used by aircraft mechanics with section in your engine service manual.
the engine shut off. This test puts a certain
amount of compressed air through the cyl- ENGINE MISSES
inder each minute. The air pressure coming Probable causes:
in is regulated at 40 psi and is displayed on • Air or water in fuel
one of the two pressure gauges. If the engine • Faulty valve seat, spark plug, ignition
cylinder leaks so much that the second gauge system, or distributor
pressure can’t reach 80 percent of the reading
on the first gauge, then the cylinder is faulty. ENGINE KNOCKS
The good thing about this test is that you can Probable causes:
listen in the crankcase for leakage past the • Spun connecting rod bearing
piston rings; you can listen in the exhaust • Wrong ignition timing
pipe for leakage past an exhaust valve; or you • Valve head or other object in cylinder
can listen at the air filter for a leak past an • Valve stuck open and piston striking it
intake valve. • Severely worn engine bearings
Note: Putting air pressure to one cylinder can • Extreme clearance between cylinder
move the piston and turn the crankshaft. It may wall and piston (piston slap)
be necessary to hold the crankshaft unless it is
possible to put the piston on the cylinder to be ENGINE LOCKED UP, OR CRANKSHAFT
tested very near top-dead-center (TDC) on the WILL TURN JUST A LITTLE
compression stroke. Probable causes:
The bore scope lets the troubleshooter look • Hydraulic lock with coolant, water, or
inside almost any diesel cylinder. Access to the gasoline on top of piston
cylinder can be gained through the injector • Object on top of piston
hole or through an open valve. Better-quality • Piston rings and cylinder walls severely
bore scopes have a light source that illumi- rusted due to water in cylinder
nates the engine cylinder and allows you to • Too long a bolt or fastener inserted too
see whatever damage is there. The bore scope deeply into the engine or timing gears
can also help detect coolant leaks into the
cylinder, if the cooling system is pressurized ENGINE LOW ON POWER
while the bore scope is in the cylinder. Many Probable causes:
bore scopes enable the user to photograph • Air filter restricted or plugged with
the inner parts of the engine. dust and soot
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 131

• Collapsed muffler or exhaust pipe EXCESSIVE BLUE EXHAUST

• Wrong fuel or water in fuel; fuel mix- Probable causes:
ture set too rich • Cylinder extremely worn
• Plugged fuel filter or restricted fuel • Piston or rings worn
lines on the suction or pressure side of • Extremely worn valve guides and seals
fuel system • Faulty oil seals inside turbocharger
• Wrong ignition timing or faulty igni- • Engine overfilled with oil
tion system
• Low compression due to cylinder EXCESSIVE WHITE EXHAUST
damage Probable causes:
• Valve clearance insufficient, or adjust- • Water in fuel
ment set too loose or tight • Salt or fresh water entering cylinder
• Faulty throttle linkage won’t pull gov- when engine is running
ernor lever to full fuel
EXHAUST WHITE, BUT HAS SLIGHT
ENGINE STARTS HARD YELLOW CAST
Probable causes: Probable cause: Antifreeze entering the cyl-
• Low battery causes slow cranking speed inder as the engine runs, due to a faulty cylin-
• Poor ground between engine and battery der head gasket or broken casting
• Low or no fuel, wrong fuel, or fuel
filter plugged COOLANT TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH
• Ignition system damaged or ignition Probable causes:
timing wrong • Coolant pump not turning or coolant
• Fuel pressure low level low
• Poor atomizing of fuel by fuel injec- • Thermostat faulty and not opening
tors, if so equipped • Keel cooler plugged internally, kinked,
• Low compression due to worn or bent
cylinders • Heat exchanger core or cooling water
• Exhaust pipe covered or blocked inlet plugged
• Valve adjustment excessively loose or tight
LOW OIL PRESSURE
ENGINE WON’T READILY SHUT OFF Probable causes:
WITH THE KEY • Low oil level or no oil in crankcase
Probable cause: Rust holding fuel system • Wrong viscosity of oil or fuel dilution
governor lever in the run position of oil
• Oil pump excessively worn or oil pump
EXCESSIVE BLACK EXHAUST pressure relief valve stuck open
Probable causes: • Crankshaft bearings extremely worn
• Plugged air filter • Faulty gauge gives wrong reading when
• Fuel mixture too rich oil pressure is OK
132 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION removed. It may be necessary to call a marine

Probable causes: mechanic to get an idea of the best way to
• Worn cylinder, pistons, and rings remove water from the gasoline tank and to
• Faulty turbocharger oil seals prevent the water contamination from hap-
• Worn valve guides and valve stem seals pening again.
• Incorrect lubricating oil After the cause of the water in the tank has
• Plugged oil drain-back holes in cylin- been found and addressed, and the tank has
der head causing valve guide oil leakage been emptied and refilled, gasoline fuel con-
• Engine overfilled with oil ditioner may be used to disperse any remain-
ing water in the fuel. Dispersants carry water
POOR FUEL ECONOMY through the engine’s carburetor or fuel injec-
Probable causes: tors with the fuel. While this is fine with a
• Restricted flow through air filter or gasoline engine, it’s not for a diesel.
exhaust
• Wrong ignition timing setting Fuel filters: The next check involves the fuel
• Too little pitch or diameter on the filters. If they are clogged, reduced power can
propeller, or too much result. Also, if water is found in the separator
• Cylinder pressure abnormally low bowl, you will have an indication that water is
• Fuel leaking into bilge (easy to smell) in the tank. Change the filters and remove the
water from the tank as described above.
INSUFFICIENT POWER
Fuel line sizing: If the boat has been recently
Fuel Supply repowered with more powerful engines, take
a careful look at the fuel lines. If they weren’t
Low fuel level and water in fuel: There replaced when the new engines were installed,
are similarities between gasoline and diesel they may not have sufficient inner diameters
engines when it comes to low power (and to carry enough fuel. Poor fuel flow will make
starting) problems and the way they are tested. an engine appear to have less power than
As with a diesel, when a gasoline engine has it should. Checking fuel pressure with the
reduced low power, check the fuel level first. engine producing full power will reveal any
Filling the tank may solve the problem. existing problem. The fuel pressure to the
If there is no fuel gauge or the existing engine fuel system will drop below the engine
one is questionable, dip the tank with a clean manufacturer’s specifications if fuel lines are
dowel or broom stick that will reach the bot- inadequate.
tom. This can be impossible on many boats,
but if it can be done, it should be. It’s always Wrong fuel type: Boats with gasoline engines
good to dab the end of the dowel or broom have been mistakenly filled with diesel fuel.
handle with paste designed to change color if While the engine won’t run with diesel fuel
water is present in the fuel at the bottom of in the tank, it doesn’t usually harm the engine.
the tank. The paste is available at most fuel Replacing all the diesel fuel with gasoline is
docks. If there is water in the tank, it must be time-consuming, but it is a simple fix.
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 133

Other Areas to Check propeller is fouled because it will take much

more effort to turn the shaft, if you can turn
Carburetor and fuel injection control
it at all.
levers: The control lever on the engine must
move to full fuel when the engine speed control
in the wheelhouse is pulled into the full speed Checking the cylinders: Engine cylinders
position. If it doesn’t, the engine will appear are difficult for the average person to inspect.
to suffer from low power problems. To check But for those who are inclined to check them
for trouble with linkage, station a helper at when the need arises there are some indirect
the engine while you are in the wheelhouse. ways to learn what is happening in the heart
With the engine off, pull the engine speed of the engine. Auto repair shops use engine
control to the full speed position and have analyzers to check gasoline cylinder condi-
your helper pull the engine linkage to see if tion by turning off the spark to one cylinder
the control lever on the engine moves farther at a time and then measuring the amount
toward full fuel. If it does, then the throttle the engine speed drops. Engine speed drops
control must be repaired or adjusted. the most when cylinders that are carrying
their share of the load are shorted out (see
Mufflers and air filters: A collapsed muf- below). However, when weak cylinders are
fler (silencer) will reduce engine power by shorted out the engine speed changes very
restricting airflow through the engine, which little.
will result in excessive back-pressure. Check The engine analyzer turns off the spark to
the back-pressure on the engine exhaust sys- each cylinder in turn by putting the spark to
tem every two years. ground. If this isn’t done, the test may dam-
Adequate airflow into and through the age the ignition system insulation. Once the
engine must not be hindered in any way. spark plug wire is charged with tens of thou-
Many engines have a filter restriction sands of volts from the ignition system, the
gauge on the intake air system that shows red current must go somewhere! If it doesn’t go
when the air filter should be serviced; air fil- to ground, it’ll try to fry the insulation. You
ters get loaded with dust and grime. Always might ask, “Can’t I just pull off the spark plug
check the condition of your air filter to avoid wire to each cylinder, one at a time, and listen
potential low power problems. to the change in speed?” The short answer is
yes. Sometimes mechanics do just that. But it
Line in the propeller: Like driving a car really shouldn’t be done because it is hard on
with the emergency brake on, line wrapped the electrical system.
around the propeller or propeller shaft will In an emergency, go ahead in spite of the
make it appear as though the engine has a low hazards, if you must know which cylinder
power problem. The best thing to do is to recall is misfiring to make a repair. The higher the
how much effort it takes to turn the propeller ignition system voltage is, the harder it is on
shaft with a pipe wrench, or even by hand, the system to pull off a plug wire with the
when the propeller is free of obstructions. engine running. One good strategy for check-
You’ll immediately notice a difference if the ing to see if there is spark is to make a test
134 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Insulation Break

Fig. 10-10. Ignition testing spark plug.

Fig. 10-11. Examine the insulation on spark plug wires if
misfiring is a problem.
plug as shown (Fig. 10-10). By grounding the
test plug and attaching a spark plug wire to it, A simple compression test for a gasoline
you will easily see if there is spark in the test engines consists of removing the spark plugs
plug when the engine is started. Using this as each cylinder is tested, inserting the com-
tester will not harm the system. pression tester into the spark plug hole, and
If a cylinder is weak, the question is why. then energizing the starter motor to build
Is it weak because of a bad spark plug, or is pressure in the cylinder. Inexpensive com-
a piston or one of the valves damaged? Try pression testers are available at auto parts
swapping a spark plug, and even the spark stores. Simply record the pressure of each
plug wire, from a known good cylinder into cylinder and then compare pressures at the
the bad cylinder. The problem may be a faulty end of the test. The pressure on most engines
plug or bad insulation on the spark plug wire will be 100 psi or greater, with no more than
(Fig. 10-11). 10 psi variation between cylinders.
If the miss (weak cylinder) moves to the More variation than this indicates bad
other cylinder when spark plugs and then the rings, valves, or both.
wires are switched, then the plug or wire is Note: I do not recommend removing all of the
bad. If the miss doesn’t move to the new cyl- spark plugs first and then moving the tester from
inder, then the missing cylinder is damaged. cylinder to the next, cranking the engine each
However, before condemning it, double- time. This method works, but can allow extra
check the valve adjustment, in case the valve dust and airborne abrasives into the cylinder.
adjustments are set too tight. A valve set too TROUBLESHOOTING HARD
tight mimics a faulty valve. A valve set too STARTS—DIESEL AND GAS
loose will hinder the cylinder’s efficiency, too. ENGINES
However, it will make such a loud clicking In spite of the differences between them, die-
noise that the sound will give it away. sel and gasoline engines share many features,
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 135

including many of the problems you may Check the electrolyte in lead-acid batteries
encounter regarding hard starts. For example, and fill with distilled water if the levels in each
a squealing alternator belt will result from the cell are low (rainwater, tap water, or even elec-
same causes regardless of engine type. Hard trolyte from an old battery are also options,
start issues share many common factors in though not as good as distilled water, which is
both types of engines, so the information that free of minerals that can damage the battery).
follows should be construed to apply to both Check for corroded terminals or cut bat-
unless otherwise noted. tery cables, which will cause an open cir-
Of course, as previously mentioned, the cuit. Replace any damaged or cut cables. In
first thing to do if faced with a hard start a pinch, you can scavenge cables from an arc
regardless of what type of engine you have is welder, if you happen to have one on board.
to check the fuel level and fuel filters. These Note: Severe voltage drop at the positive post
are the most likely culprits. Failing that, there of the starter, when trying to crank the engine,
are plenty of other probable causes. Below indicates that there is severe corrosion between
you will find a detailed troubleshooting list the cable and the inside of the cable terminal, or
to help you resolve hard start problems. that the cable is cut nearly all the way through
somewhere between the battery and the starter.
CRANKSHAFT WON’T TURN WHEN After these checks, charge the batteries
STARTER ENGAGED, NO SOUND OF with an AC charger. If no charger is avail-
STARTER MOTOR TRYING TO WORK able, jump the discharged batteries from a
Probable causes: Faulty or discharged bat- fully charged battery. When a jumper bat-
tery, or battery low on electrolyte tery isn’t available and a DC arc welder is,
use the welder as the power source to ener-
• Corroded battery terminals, corroded gize the starter (through the battery) and turn
or partially cut cables, damaged battery the engine. Since many DC “stick” welding
posts machines operate at 24 volts, make sure to put
• Alternator output low or nonexistent, it on a lower amp setting. Connect the weld-
belt slipping, excessively worn pulley ing leads in the right polarity with very good,
• Faulty starter switch, low voltage to tight connections, and try it. If the engine is
switch warm it may start.
• Bad starter solenoid
Alternator: After checking the batteries,
Suggested actions: look for alternator belt slippage. Tighten
or replace the belt if necessary. If no belt is
Batteries: Check battery voltage with a mul- available, make one from a length of Push-
timeter. You should get a reading of 12 volts Loc hose rated for 300 psi. See page 55 for
or better. If you don’t have a multimeter, turn a detailed illustration on this type of repair.
on the lights powered by the DC electrical As a last resort, you can fashion a belt from
system. If lights are dim, your batteries are a nylon stocking. Check the alternator pulley
low and lack the power to energize the starter. and replace it if it’s worn.
136 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Overcharging will eventually boil lead-acid is bypassed, then the solenoid is faulty and
batteries until the electrolyte level drops too must be replaced.
low for them to function properly. When you If no replacement solenoid is available,
check the electrolyte level and find it low, check it is possible to remove the solenoid and
the alternator charge rate after refilling the bat- engage the starter drive gear manually with
teries. Assuming you have found a way to start the flywheel, using a pry bar. When the
it, make note of the alternator charging system starter drive is engaged with the flywheel,
voltage before starting up the engine. It should you can energize the starter motor directly
be 10.5 to 12 volts, or twice that for a 24-volt by touching the positive cable from the bat-
system. Now, start the engine, take another tery to the starter’s high-amperage positive
reading, and compare it with the previous one. post. But I do not recommend this. There will
The voltage after the engine is started should be tremendous arcing from the battery cable to
be 13.5 to 14.2 volts for a 12-volt system or the starter terminal or to any other ground the
twice that for a 24-volt system. cable touches. This is an extreme emergency
Note: If alternator diodes are faulty, current can measure.
leak from the system through the alternator when If the starter is faulty, it will not spin
the engine is at rest. This will sometimes make the even if the solenoid is bypassed, and it
alternator warm even when the engine is off. must be replaced. If no new starter is avail-
able, get a used starter from another engine.
Starter switch and solenoid: The next com- Alternatively, in an emergency, you may use a
ponent to check is the starter switch in the starter with a lower voltage rating. For exam-
wheelhouse. Using a voltmeter (black lead ple, if your workboat engine has a 32-volt
to ground and red lead to the wire supply- starter, a 24-volt or even a 12-volt starter will
ing the switch and then to the wire leaving work in an emergency. This is a temporary
the switch), verify that current is reaching the fix. Install the right starter for the engine as
switch and verify the voltage output when the soon as possible.
switch is operated. If current isn’t reaching
the switch or the voltage output is weak, you CAN HEAR THE STARTER TRYING TO
have found the root of the problem. You can TURN CRANKSHAFT, BUT ENGINE
try jumping the starter as shown in Fig. 11-3. WON’T TURN FAST ENOUGH TO
But if all is well, move on to the next step. START
Check the starter motor solenoid. It is Probable cause: Possible low voltage
possible to bypass the solenoid altogether Suggested action: See previous actions
by creating a temporary connection from related to charging or jumping batteries.
the solenoid’s main positive terminal direct
to the starter field post. Using eye protec- CAN HEAR DRIVE “CLUNK” INTO FLY
tion and leather gloves, momentarily span WHEEL TEETH, BUT DOESN’T SPIN
these two terminals with a stout screwdriver CRANKSHAFT
or pry bar. Caution: There will be some arcing. Probable cause: The starter windings may
If the starter motor spins when the solenoid be an open circuit
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 137

Suggested action: Replace the starter or mark and move the ring gear one-quarter
take steps as previously explained. turn from its original position. Rotate the
ring gear one-sixth of a turn on a six-cylinder
THE STARTER MAKES GRINDING engine, and one-eighth of a turn on an eight-
SOUND DUE TO DAMAGED FLYWHEEL cylinder engine.
RING GEAR TEETH
Probable cause: Faulty starter ring gear THE STARTER MOTOR CAN BE HEARD
Suggested actions: OVERREVVING BUT NOT ENGAGING
If a new ring gear is not available, remove WITH THE FLYWHEEL
the existing one from the flywheel and flip Probable cause: Starter drive (also known
it to expose undamaged teeth to the starter. as the Bendix) may be bad
Then reinstall the ring gear to the flywheel Suggested actions: The starter drive will
and the flywheel to the engine. need to be replaced.
If the gear tooth contour isn’t compatible
with flipping over, then remove the ring gear CRANKSHAFT TURNS A LITTLE BUT
and change its clock orientation to the flywheel. THEN LOCKS UP BEFORE MAKING A
Rotate the ring gear slightly and reinstall it. For FULL REVOLUTION
example, on a four-cylinder engine (Fig. 10-12), Probable causes:
• Hydraulic lock (fluid on top of a
When a 4-cylinder engine piston)
is turned off it will come to
rest in one of two places • Mechanical lock
on the flywheel ring gear
lined up with the starter Suggested actions:
4 Cyl. drive gear.
Over time these two areas
Hydraulic lock: Remove the injectors or glow
get much more use than the plugs (diesels) or spark plugs (gas engines)
rest of the flywheel teeth.
to allow barring over the engine by hand.
On a diesel, if injectors or glow plugs can’t be
Likewise, a 6-cylinder
removed, rotate the adjusting screws on all
6 Cyl.
engine wears three areas, exhaust valves one-half turn to tighten them
evenly spaced around the
ring gear.
past zero-lash. (Zero lash is an absence of clear-
ance between the rocker-arm tip and the end of
the valve stem.) This will hold all exhaust valves
open and enable the engine to be barred over.
The fluid will be pumped out of the cylinders
Similarly, a V-8 wears four and into the exhaust manifold. After the fluid is
8 Cyl. areas around the ring gear. gone, the valves must be readjusted.
Note: Always err on the side of caution and
be sure the cylinders are clear before energizing
the starter! Bar the engine over, by hand, two
Fig. 10-12. Areas of wear on a flywheel ring. complete revolutions to clear fluid from above
138 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

the piston rings. Be sure to find out where the Fuel doesn’t reach engine: If no smoke
fluid is coming from and stop it. comes from the exhaust pipe during crank-
ing, then no fuel is entering the cylinders.
Mechanical lock: The lock may be due to Find out why by bleeding the high-pressure
recent repairs in which a bolt was threaded fuel fittings on the pressure side of the fuel
in too far, causing interference with some system. Follow the directions in your engine
moving internal engine part. Loose internal service manual for bleeding the fuel system.
parts may have jammed inside the engine, On a diesel engine only, if you determine
or the lock may be due to a severe engine that fuel is reaching the cylinders (there is
failure. Cut open the oil filter and check for smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe), but
metal particles (glitter) lodged in filter media the engine will not fire, try ether starting fluid
paper. If you find any, you’re seeing evidence to see if it helps. See the accompanying sidebar
of metal-to-metal contact, and that almost for proper use of ether. Note: Some engines such
always means the engine is damaged. Remove as Volvo-Penta diesels are equipped with a certain
the valve cover and inspect for damaged valves type of keystone piston rings that don’t respond to
and for valves that have contacted a piston. ether starting aids. See Fig. 2-14 for a detailed
comparison of keystone and square-cut rings.
CRANKSHAFT TOTALLY LOCKED UP
Probable causes: Low compression and fuel injection
• Rusted cylinders timing: Verify that there is at least 350 psi
• Mechanical lock of compression in the cylinders (see above
for more on compression tests). If the engine
Suggested actions: Rusted cylinders will still won’t start, refer to your engine service
seize up. Water may have come down the stack manual for directions on checking fuel injec-
of a dry, vertical exhaust system, or it may have tion timing.
entered the engine from excessive bilge water You may never have thought of this, but a
splash. If the boat has been refloated after sink- trick of the trade is to heat the oil. This won’t
ing, then you know exactly how the water got work well on boats with large engines, but if
in! Check the cylinders for rust or see previ- your engine is fairly small, consider drain-
ous problem for information about mechanical ing the oil as soon as you shut the engine off.
locks. Store the oil in a warm place, and when you’re
ready to go, pour the warm oil back into the
ENGINE TURNS BUT WILL NOT START
engine. Start the engine immediately. Believe
Probable causes: it or not, this has worked well more than
• Engine not getting fuel once! These techniques are good for diesel
• Low compression in cylinders and gasoline engines.
• Fuel injection timing out of TROUBLESPOTS TO LOOK FOR
specification WHEN DISMANTLING AN ENGINE
Professional mechanics develop a heightened
Suggested actions: ability to detect important clues during the
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 139

USING STARTING FLUID ON A DIESEL the cylinder and explodes so violently that it
ENGINE temporarily locks the engine. This is called an
ether lock, and it will break the piston rings.
The starting fluid sold in auto supply stores is After an ether lock, the engine will need ether
pressurized ether, a highly explosive gas that is to start every time because the rings won’t
misused most of the time. Starting fluid is a lot hold pressure in the cylinders. The engine is
like a sledgehammer. Skillfully applied, it does then said to be addicted to ether.
its job better than any substitute, but if not used
carefully, it will do expensive damage quickly.
You should not use starting fluid on gaso-
line engines, because they have light-duty
connecting rods and pistons that are easily
damaged. What’s more, gasoline is nearly as
explosive as ether, and if you have a spark and TIPS FOR COLD WEATHER STARTS
good spark timing, compression, and fuel, the
engine will start when it turns fast enough. One major consideration when discussing
When a gasoline engine won’t start, check hard starts in diesel and gasoline engines is
each of the items in the preceding sentence. older diesel engines often require warming
Ether starting fluid is useful for balky diesel to facilitate the starting process, especially
engines, however, especially for very cold starts. in cold weather. While gasoline engines start
If used properly, it will not hurt your engine. better in the cold, a modern diesel is less
Begin by charging the batteries and warming prone to hard starts in cold weather because
the engine. Even a small electric heater blowing injection pressures are now much higher for
warm air onto the engine for an hour is helpful. good starting. However, larger diesel-powered
While warming up the engine, make sure there vessels still often have electric forced-air
is fuel in the tank and fuel to the engine. Next heat plumbed into the engine room to make
remove the air filter and have someone energize starting in cold weather easier.
the starter to get the crankshaft turning. On a smaller boat, you can use a hairdryer,
Here is the important part: After the engine is a hot-air popcorn popper, or even a lightbulb
spinning, squirt a small “puff” of ether into the air to warm the engine compartment. Never use
filter. Wait two seconds, then squirt another quick an open flame. Direct the heat toward the oil
puff. Wait two seconds more and squirt another. pan for best results.
While the engine is cranking, keep watching Warming the battery will also help. Ideally,
for smoke out of the exhaust pipe. Black smoke you would warm the battery along with the
proves that fuel is entering the cylinders and engine. But you could remove the battery, if
starting to ignite. An absence of smoke means it’s not too heavy, and put it inside a warm
that the engine isn’t getting fuel in the cylinders. cabin. Alternatively, you could place the bat-
Ether can destroy an engine if you spray a tery in a container of heated water. Keep the
liquid stream into the air filter before you start top dry to preserve the integrity of the electro-
turning over the engine. The ether gets into lyte in a lead-acid battery.
140 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

disassembly of an engine. They don’t merely Is the engine paint burned or darker in
take an engine apart to rebuild it. They view some areas due to overheating of the engine
the exercise as an ideal way to identify poten- or some part of the engine? If the head and
tial areas of trouble that may have caused a upper engine are discolored, watch for signs
breakdown or threatened to in the future. As of internal overheating damage. This dam-
they work, they are extremely careful not to age will include things like cracked heads or a
introduce problems, such as not allowing dirt, damaged cylinder block.
fasteners, tools, or even small shop cloths to fall How does the exterior of the engine
unnoticed into vital oil, fuel, coolant, or air pas- look? Are aluminum pieces corroded and iron
sages. They cap, plug, tape, or cover all openings pieces rusted? If so, the engine may have been
as they remove components from the engine. wet often or even submerged in water. Does
Whenever possible, professional mechan- the oil pan or even the cylinder block have a
ics also avoid doing engine jobs where there high-water mark that indicates swamping?
is going to be a lot of foot traffic in the work Is the exterior of the engine dented or
area, like in a shed where major structural scuffed, or are there bent or broken parts?
repairs are being done on the boat. Dust and If so, it has had rough handling.
metal grinding near an engine rebuild is just Are there streaks of leaking oil running
asking for trouble. It’s better to do the engine down the side? This indicates an oil leak.
rebuild either before or after the other boat Are there streaks of white mineral residue
work that must be done. This is a safety con- running down the side? This indicates a coolant
sideration as much as anything else. leak with poorly maintained coolant containing
When a marine engine fails, lives are on high levels of dissolved solids (Fig. 10-13).
the line, much as they are when an aircraft When the oil pan drain plug is loosened,
engine suddenly stops working. While cer- what appears first, water or oil? If water
tainly not as deadly, engine failure on the
water is dangerous, especially in bad weather No. 4 L.H.

or near rocks. To lose power in a boat will

often be life-threatening.
In a truck or piece of heavy equipment it’s
not hard to “swing” (change) a new engine in
a day’s time. However, on a boat it’s no sim-
ple matter to replace or rebuild an engine.
Hatch covers and bulkheads must be opened,
removed, unbolted, or even cut to pass large
and heavy engines, or pieces of an engine, Minerals from
cooling system
through to the top deck and then back to the
engine room after repairs are made. What
follows is a point-by-point troubleshooting
Fig. 10-13. White streaks on the side of this engine indicate
tour of an engine as it is taken apart, prior to the presence of dissolved solids in leaking
rebuilding. antifreeze coolant.
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 141

THE CRANKCASE VENT crankcase, and he insisted on doing an eight-

hour sea trial during a storm. Soon after we
The boatowner on the other end of a scratchy left our anchorage I became really seasick.
sounding phone asked me to charter a plane The skipper told me it would help if I went on
from Kodiak, Alaska, to Port Moller, which deck and got some fresh air.
is several hundred miles west of Kodiak. He The boat was pitching and rolling so vio-
said to bring the 1,200 pounds of parts that lently I had to stand with my feet far apart
it would take to rebuild his Cat D353. He said just to remain upright. The cover of the crab
he had blown a piston and the engine was tank, which was six feet square, was up on
down. Then he added that the engine kept the edge of the tank, apparently left that way
blowing the dipstick from its hole because the so just one person could slide it open.
engine had terrible blowby (high crankcase Suddenly, a wave swept over the deck from
pressure). the port side and carried me over the rail on the
When I arrived and checked the engine, I starboard side of the boat. I flailed and caught
found the crankcase vent tube kinked, which the rail as I went over and hung on, then quickly
was causing the high crankcase pressure. I climbed back on deck. As soon as I got my bal-
assured the skipper that his engine was just ance again, the boat pitched violently and the
fine, and that we needed to plumb his vent cover of the dry crab tank slid open, seemingly
system as shown in Figure 10-14. to receive me as I started to fall in!
As this drawing reveals, the pipe inserted Totally panicked, I grabbed the edge of the
in the exhaust stream causes a swirling low- tank as I fell through the opening and hung
pressure area at the end of the small pipe. there with the boat rolling. Giving it every-
This actually acts like a vacuum cleaner to thing I had, I was able to swing and climb
draw the crankcase gases from the crank- back out of the tank, fearing all the while that
case. This is known as the venturi effect. the tank cover would slide closed on my arms.
Getting back to my feet, I lunged through the
Exhaust gases scavenge
crankcase vapors from Notice venturi door and back into the galley.
the engine. effect
Slowly regaining my composure, I realized
I had been totally cured of the seasickness
Silencer by my stark terror out on deck. The skipper
Flex joint
calmly informed me that the engine seemed
Crankcase vent to be doing just fine.
Exhaust gas flow

shows first, then there is water (or coolant) in

Fig. 10-14. A proper marine crankcase vent the oil pan. As the disassembly progresses, it
system. is vital to find the source of this water.
After cutting open a fuel filter, is it full
The skipper didn’t believe that the prob- of rust, algae, or even water? These are signs
lem was fixed after we properly vented the of water in the fuel. Finding water in the fuel
can turn what was supposed to be a quick
142 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

“in-frame” overhaul into a more costly job the first time since it was new. Are the scraped
because the injection pump and injectors will surfaces gouged or scratched? If so, you are
need to be replaced. not the first to repair the engine.
After cutting open the oil filter and Inspect fasteners as they are removed.
inspecting the pleats of filter media for con- Are the fasteners you are removing all similar
tamination, is aluminum present? This is and of the type the manufacturer used when
piston material. Are there a lot of black soot the engine was new? Or does the engine have
particles? This shows excessive piston ring a mixture of some factory and some after-
blowby, too much time between oil changes, market fasteners? To tell the difference, just
or poor maintenance. look at the markings on the bolt heads. These
Before removing the water pump and are more clues to help you learn if the engine
alternator belts, did they allow slippage and has been previously repaired, and if the job
are they glazed? Are the belt pulleys badly was done well.
worn? These are signs of belts slipping. If the Is the bottom wear surface on the rocker
engine overheated, it is possible it overheated shaft excessively worn? This will show the
because the coolant pump was not turning as engine has a high amount of hours on it. If so,
fast as it should have. new rocker arms will need to be ordered.
Collect and test the antifreeze for freez- Check the valve settings with a feeler
ing protection and also do a pH test. Many gauge before you remove the rocker arms.
drugstores sell inexpensive pH tape for the Are they loose or overly tight? This can
testing of water-based fluids. The coolant tell you what state of tune the engine was
must be slightly alkaline in pH to prevent in. If the valves are overly tight, watch for
galvanic corrosion from attacking dissimi- a burned valve seat when you get the head
lar metals inside the engine. Acidic coolant disassembled.
means the engine you are reconditioning may Loosen the valve adjustment locknuts
be going back into a boat where the cooling and back off the valve lash before removing
system needs cleaning and flushing. the rocker arms. This will help you avoid bolt-
How does the valve cover gasket look? ing the rocker arms back onto the engine with
Is the gasket crushed from overtightening of insufficient valve clearance later. This is impor-
the cover bolts? Overtightening of these bolts, tant because the cylinder head valves and seats
using excessive silicone sealer on a valve cover will be machined during the rebuild, and the
gasket, or using sealer instead of a gasket are all valve stems may protrude upward through the
signs of a novice. Cat green (contact cement) valve guides a little higher after the heads are
or 3M weather-stripping adhesive on the valve done. Bolting the rocker arms back in with
cover side of the gasket are signs of a pro. insufficient valve lash settings could cause a
Do the engine’s gasketed surfaces show valve to hit a piston and bend as the crankshaft
signs of someone having previously scraped is being turned during the rebuilding process.
an old gasket off during a previous rebuild? Note: Before removing the head bolts, be sure
If so, the engine has been rebuilt. If not, it to remove the injectors, because the injectors
may be that you are rebuilding the engine for sometimes take a little force to remove. Injectors
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 143

are easier to remove while the heads are bolted cover or crankcase because the residue will
securely to the engine. Injector tips also often pro- contaminate any oil analysis sampling that is
trude through the cylinder head and will be dam- done on the engine.
aged if the head is set on a workbench, so remove As the head bolts are removed, smell the
the injectors to prevent injector tip damage. oil on the bolts. If the engine has been over-
Be sure to notice the level of head bolt heated, the oil will have a very strong burned
tightness as the bolts are removed. Are they smell.
uniformly tight? If not, they may not have Can you wiggle the valve stems much?
been torqued properly, or one may have been Put a dial indicator on the stem and measure
missed during the tightening procedure. If you the movement. How does this amount of
find one that was not tight, notice which cyl- movement compare with the service manual
inder it was near. Then, once the head is off, specifications? If the guides are far out of
make note of any places the head gasket may specification, the engine, or at least the heads,
have blown out. These places will show dark- will have a lot of running time.
ening or actual destruction of the head gasket. When removing the pushrods, keep
Any engine will have a certain number them in order. As the pushrods are removed,
of head bolts under the valve cover, pro- check to see if they can be rolled smoothly on
tected from the elements. These inside bolts a flat surface. If so, they are straight. If not,
will have no paint on their heads. There will they are bent. A bent valve-actuating push-
also be a certain number of outside head rod tells you that a valve contacted a piston.
bolts. However, these bolts will have painted Can you see a mark on any of the pistons that
(and possibly rusty too) heads from when the will verify that contact was made?
engine was painted. Another important check for hollow
As you disassemble the engine, make note tubular pushrods, like those used in older
if any painted bolt heads are found under Cummins engines with PT fuel systems:
the valve cover. Likewise, notice if any of the Hold them up by one end and tap them gen-
unpainted bolts were used as outside bolts. tly with a hammer to make sure each rings
If any irregularity is found here, it will prove with the same resonance. This indicates they
previous service work was done. It will also are not filled with oil. When one has a differ-
indicate that the work was unprofessional. ent tone than the others, then it does have oil
Head bolt threads must be lubricated dur- inside and must be replaced.
ing assembly, according to the manufactur- Inspect the head gasket surfaces on the
er’s directions, which usually call for engine head and block immediately after removing
oil on the threads of the bolts and under the the head. Watch for discolored areas where
head of the bolt. Never-Seez compound, coolant or compression may have been poorly
also known as anti-seize compound, is a contained.
thick paste often containing minute flakes of Similarly, watch for a deep scratch or
graphite, copper, nickel, molybdenum, and gouge under a critical area of the head gasket.
grease. The compound works great, but it Scratches will let fluids pass under gaskets,
should not be used on bolts inside the valve preventing them from holding pressure.
144 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Watch for mismatched, wrong length, or an oil sample from a sound engine appear as
bolts of various strength ratings, and bolts though it is self-destructing.
with painted heads inside of the engine After the cylinder head (or heads) is
covers. This includes the flywheel housing, removed, it is time to check the tops of the
the timing gear cover, and the oil pan and the pistons for evidence of contact between a
valve cover. Mismatched bolts are signs of valve and piston. Often the contact is more
poor or sloppy workmanship. subtle than shown in Figures 10-15 and 10-16.
When inspecting the heads further, look
for cracks between the exhaust valve (often
the smaller diameter valve in each cylinder)
and the injector hole. Cracks here prove
overheating occurred.
Are there gouges on surfaces where gas-
kets have been scraped? Is the head straight
and true according to a straightedge? If not,
it has been overheated.
As the exhaust manifold is removed, is
there any trace of red (rust) in the intake or
exhaust ports of the head or the passages
of the exhaust manifold? If there is, this is a
sign of water in the corresponding cylinder.
Looking into the exhaust ports of the
head, are all of them flat black in color and
tone? This is good. It shows that the cylinders Fig. 10-15. Broken valve head embedded in a piston.
were in good shape and that each was prob-
ably doing its share of the work of keeping
the crankshaft turning. On the other hand, is
one or more of the exhaust ports a shiny wet-
looking black color? If so, this indicates the
possibility of weak cylinders, and especially
cylinders that are low on compression and
not completely burning the fuel.
Do the exterior (out of the crankcase)
bolts have Never-Seez on them? Good! This
is a sign of craftsmanship. However, if inte-
rior bolts have Never-Seez on them, this is
not good, and is the sign of a novice at work.
As mentioned above, Never-Seez compound
inside the crankcase will cause faulty oil sam-
ple results. Never-Seez compound will make Fig. 10-16. Debris embedded in a piston.
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 145

Loose
Engine Oil Bolts
Pump Body
Cracked
Pipe

Faulty
Gasket
or Seal Oil Pan

Oil Pump
Suction Bell
and Pick-up
Tube rust

Fig. 10-18. Rust in the injection pump.

Fig. 10-17. Poor oil suction.
Are all locating dowels present on the
front and rear cover and on the top of block?
Are the O-rings on the lube oil pump
Note: Locating dowels protrude upward from
suction tube hardened? This could explain
the cylinder block, and they are what aligns the
damage to the crankshaft bearings even when
head gasket and the head to the cylinder block.
there is no fuel in the oil. Hard O-ring seals
Take the lid off of the injection pump (if
on the suction side of the lube oil pump will
it has one) and look for rust in the pump.
aerate the oil, as will faulty suction pipe gas-
If there is rust in the pump (Fig. 10-18), the
kets and loose bolts on the pipe (Fig. 10-17).
injectors and injector lines must be replaced.
What is the condition of the main and
rod bearings that are farthest from the oil OUTBOARD ENGINE
pump? If the engine runs low on oil, these TROUBLESHOOTING
will be damaged first. A good share of maintaining an outboard
Are the oil pump gears scratched? They depends on strong troubleshooting tech-
are supposed to be soft, so that hard particles niques. It also helps to have impressions
will embed rather than lock the pump gears. about how your particular outboard starts,
Scratches, though, indicate contaminants in runs, sounds, smells, and steers, and the tem-
the lube oil system. perature on different parts of the engine after
What is the condition of the water pump it warms up. If you observe and recall how
impeller? If it is missing a blade, the missing the engine acts when it is running well, you’ll
blade may be trapped in the cooling system. notice immediately if it begins to misbehave.
It also means the engine may have been run- Take temperatures, for example. Since the
ning hot. hottest object a person can hold onto with a
Is the crankshaft rear main bearing bare hand is 140°F (60°C), this natural ther-
sloppy? This indicates extreme crankshaft mometer in your hands can be a real help if
wear and poor maintenance. overheating becomes a problem. Learn the
146 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

normal temperatures of the different parts out of the cylinders that could scratch the
of your equipment, and if you find any part cylinder walls.
is too hot to touch, you’ll know you’ve got a It is important never to try to start an
problem. engine with a spark plug wire ungrounded.
Did you ever notice that a small stream of The reason for this is that an ignition system
bypassed cooling water runs out of your out- with an ungrounded plug wire is something
board when your engine is moving through like a hydraulic pump that has its outlet
the water? This stream is a clue that the cool- opening plugged; if you turn the pump on,
ing system is doing its job. If the water stops, something will break. The newer outboard
it is time to stop, tilt the outboard, and check ignition systems are powerful! When a spark
for blockage of the water inlet on the lower plug wire is unhooked, there is no easy ground
unit. If the inlet is clear, then the water pump path for the high voltage. The high voltage
may have failed. Also, in very cold weather in must go somewhere, and if it goes to ground
saltwater applications, ice can build up and through the wrong part of the ignition sys-
block the water outlet opening above the tem, it can fry something. If there is no spark,
waterline. then be sure there are 12 volts available to the
When an outboard engine fails to start, it’s ignition system.
a good idea to check fuel flow first. Simply Turning the engine flywheel by hand
unhook the fuel line where it enters the car- allows you to feel the pistons come up on the
buretor or fuel injector housing and see if fuel compression stroke. If compression isn’t evi-
flows into a jar when you crank the engine. dent, there may be a hole in a piston. It will
If there is fuel flow, then hold the jar up and pay to remove the spark plugs at this point
look for water lying below the fuel. If there is and look in each cylinder for a clue.
no fuel flow, then check the fuel level in the On four-stroke engines, a failed camshaft
tank and squeeze the bulb. Pump the bulb timing belt will make it impossible to start
a few times and see what happens. No fuel the engine. It’s an easy visual check. Also, a
means there is a problem in the fuel pump, cog belt that is close to failure will be cracked
fuel line, or the tank itself. Also, a plugged on the inside of the belt next to the cog. The
fuel screen can certainly make you late for the neutral safety switch can be a source of start-
barbecue! To check it, remove the fasteners ing problems if it gets sticky, because it is in
on the cover of the fuel screen that are close the circuit between the starter switch and the
to the carburetor or fuel injector. starter.
When an engine cranks but will not start, Of course, you could have a dead battery
check for spark using a good spare spark plug. or corroded battery posts. A bad battery can-
Instead of removing the engine’s spark plugs, not take or hold a full charge. The most basic
use an extra plug and connect the spark plug alternator test is to check the battery volt-
wire to it and ground it on the cylinder head age before starting the engine. After it starts,
while cranking the engine (see Fig. 10-10). check the voltage again. If the alternator is
Leaving the spark plugs in their respective working, voltage should increase by one to
cylinders for the time being will keep debris three volts.
 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 147

LOW POWER PROBLEMS like turpentine. If it sits for longer than one
The all-time winner for low power complaints month, the best prevention for gum deposit
on any type of engine-driven equipment is problems is to drain the float bowls.
the lowly throttle linkage. If there isn’t full Check valve lash every 200 hours on
travel of the throttle at the engine when the four-stroke engines or at the interval recom-
throttle lever is at its full power position, then mended in the service manual. Four-stroke
low power will result. The way to check this engines need regular valve adjustments for
is to pull the throttle control to full throttle long engine life and best performance. There
(with the engine off ) and then look and see if are plastic and stainless steel feeler gauges
you can pull any more travel at the engine. available to do this job. Regular ferrous metal
Another problem on four-stroke outboards feeler gauges won’t last around the water.
is a timing belt that is one cog off the correct There is easily a 3 to 5 hp penalty for a sloppy
setting. Usually, a cog belt gets that way because valve adjustment on a 100 hp outboard.
it was improperly installed. A piece of line in If the need arises to remove the cylinder
the propeller can be another troublemaker, but head from your outboard—for example to
fortunately that is easy to check! check the pistons for holes and the cylinder
walls for scratches—be sure to remove the
OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE cylinder head bolts in the order specified by
There is a lot of dust over water, even over the the service manual. This can prevent warping
ocean. Regular air filter service is important. a cylinder head. Before reinstalling the head,
Regular changes of the lube oil and filter as clean the boltholes and remove all oil, cool-
well as fuel filters, if so equipped, are vital to ant, or foreign matter. Visually inspect each
four-strokes. Also, two-stroke engines require bolthole for cracks or weak threads before
either oil mixed with the fuel in older engines reinstalling the head.
or the oil level maintained in the oil injection
tank. FOUR-STROKE GASOLINE ENGINES
Change lower unit oil regularly to keep
water out of the gear lube in the lower unit. Interpretation of vacuum gauge readings:
Because all outboard lower units are vented Before the engine is vacuum tested, all obvious
to the atmosphere from the top of the unit, causes of vacuum leaks must be repaired and
there will always be condensed moisture the engine must be warmed up. Vacuum testing
coming in. Oil changes are the only way to is one of the best troubleshooting techniques
keep water out of a lower unit. for inboard/outboard (IO) engines and out-
Fuel injection is used on higher horsepower board motors. Before beginning the test, set the
engines while smaller ones use carburetors. engine’s idle speed to the factory specification.
Fuel conditioner should be used for long-term The place on the engine where vacuum
storage to prevent gum deposits. The gum is testing (Fig. 10-19) takes place is on the intake
actually a microorganism that develops in old manifold. The intake manifold is the area
gasoline, and it is the outboard motor’s big- between the throttle plates and the upstream
gest problem. When gasoline is bad, it smells side of the intake valves. Inside this space
148 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

1. A steady reading 2. A reading that

between 15 and 20 drifts back and
inches of mercury forth over a range
(in. Hg), with the of 4 to 5 in. Hg
engine warmed within the normal
up and idling, is range indicates the
normal. need of carburetor
adjustment if so
equipped.

3. Next snap the 4. Rapid needle

throttle plate open vibration between
and closed suddenly. 14 and 19 in. Hg
The gauge needle indicates that worn
should drop to 5 in. valve guides are
Hg or lower before letting the intake
stabilizing at the valves chatter as
normal reading of they seat.
between 15 and 22
in. Hg

5. A low reading that 6. A needle that floats

holds steady at near over a range of
5 in. Hg indicates a about 14 to 16 in.
vacuum leak. The Hg suggests that
leak may be at a spark plugs may be
vacuum hose, the gapped too close.
intake manifold,
carburetor, or fuel
injector gaskets, if
so equipped.

7. A low reading 8. A needle that swings

that holds steady erratically between
between 8 and 14 10 and 20 in. Hg
in. Hg suggests when the engine is
the ignition accelerated smoothly
timing is off or may indicate weak
that piston rings valve springs.
are leaking. Also
check timing and
compression.

9. A fluctuating 10. A steady high

reading that reading that holds
regularly drops 2 above 21 in. Hg
to 6 in. Hg below indicates a
normal indicates restricted air intake
low compression or air filter. Also
or worn points, if check for a stuck
so equipped. choke, if so
equipped.

11. A regular variation 12. If the needle drops

between a low to near zero when
reading of approx. the engine is
5 in. Hg and a accelerated, then
slightly lower than climbs back to
normal reading almost a normal
means the head level, check for a
gasket is leaking. restricted exhaust
system.

Fig. 10-19. Vacuum testing four-stroke gasoline engines.

 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM 149

within the engine there is only filtered air and 1. Cut the Threaded End
from the Filter Housing.
fuel, at least when all is well. (Note: This kind
of vacuum testing will not work on a diesel engine.
Because marine diesels do not have throttle plates,
there is seldom a vacuum in the diesel’s intake
Metal
manifold. Be sure to check all of the information from
Cutting
in the troubleshooting section in the engine service
manual for your particular engine.)

SURVEYING MARINE ENGINES

AND TRANSMISSIONS 2. Cut the Paper Media from
the Other End Once the
When buying a used boat, a careful inspection Filter Is Opened. This will
Prevent Contamination
can reveal potential problems. You should from the Cut End.
never rely on your own expertise, even if you
think you are qualified. Always hire a profes- Fig. 10-20. Cut open the oil filter to learn the engine’s
condition.
sional surveyor. However, it is very helpful
to understand what to look for in a boat’s
engine and transmission before paying for an
expensive professional survey. The following Water in oil: Loosen the oil drain plug and
information will point out some of the more turn it outward only one full turn; don’t take
important things to check. it all the way out. Now notice what comes
into view. There should be no water present,
Oil filter: After you’ve done your homework only oil. If, however, water is the first thing
about what kind of engine is in the boat, arrive that drips out of the threads, then the engine
for the inspection with a new oil filter for the has water in the oil and you should consider
engine and a filter wrench. If the seller is on the engine only a rebuildable core, not a func-
the level, there will be no problem about tak- tional engine.
ing his existing oil filter home so you can cut it
open to look for signs of trouble. Turn the filter Crankshaft: Turn the engine crankshaft two
upside down and let it drain overnight. Then complete revolutions by hand. Feel for tight
cut it open (Fig. 10-20) and inspect the filter spots in the movements and verify that the
media for aluminum, iron, or excess soot. engine will indeed turn two revolutions. This
proves the engine is ready to start.
Fluid levels: Check the oil levels in the engine
and transmission, and the coolant level too. Intake manifold plug: If the engine is tur-
bocharged, find a plug on the intake manifold
Oil color: Open the oil filler cap and shine a downstream of the turbocharger and remove
bright light in the opening. Make note of any it. Look at the end of the plug to check its
cream-colored oil that has water emulsified condition. It should be clean and bone-dry,
in it. This will tell you the engine might have and it should have no oil on it. An oily intake
a little coolant in the oil. plug indicates oil leaking from the center
150 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

section of the turbocharger into the cold Watch the engine smoke when it is running.
side (intake side) of the turbocharger. Next, White smoke indicates low compression, and
even if the intake plug is dry and clean, shine black smoke indicates a plugged air filter or
a light into the manifold and verify that it is sluggish turbocharger. Notice the oil pres-
also clean and dry. sure when the engine is cold and hot. Be sure
the pressure is no less than 25 psi at low idle
Engine mounts: Check for loose engine when the engine is warm, or check the engine
mount bolts and shims under the mounting manufacturer’s specification.
feet. If mounts or shims are loose, there may
be a soft foot (see Chapter 17). Oil pan: Notice if there is a watermark on
the oil pan (inside or out), which will show the
Antifreeze: Check the antifreeze with a
bilge water has been deep for some reason.
tester to get an idea if the engine has been
well maintained. Transmission wear metal: Check the trans-
Air filter: Check the air filter for evidence of mission screen, which is on the suction side of
a lot of black soot. A soot-plugged air filter the oil pump. You may need to read the trans-
indicates an exhaust leak. If the engine has mission service manual to find the screen. A
been operated with a plugged air filter, there slight amount of wear metal is normal for a
may be a lot of fuel in the oil. An oil analysis transmission with under 1,000 hours on it or
will show if there is fuel in the oil. one that was just rebuilt. More than just a few
small pieces of wear metal indicate a problem
Oil test: If the engine is operational, warm it and reduces the transmission to rebuildable
up and take an oil sample to send to an oil lab. core status.
 CHAPTER 11
TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES:
DIESEL ENGINES

Most of us are familiar with traditional meth- recognize the terms and vocabulary, but rec-
ods of troubleshooting onboard systems, as dis- reational mariners may not and will need to
cussed in the previous chapter. When something know both in order to communicate effec-
goes wrong, it becomes painfully obvious. There tively when calling a mechanic.
is a horrifying noise, a burning smell, a myste- This chapter provides a lengthy and detailed
rious appearance of water in the bilge. All you look at diesel engines; Chapter 12 covers gaso-
want to know at that moment is what happened line engines; Chapter 13 addresses systems in
and how to fix the problem. Yet, there is far more the cabin and engine room; Chapter 14 deals
to good troubleshooting than a gut-level reactive with transmissions and power-take-offs; and
response, and, for that matter, there is far more Chapter 15 takes you through steering as well
to good boat maintenance as well. as engine speed and transmission controls. In
Professional marine mechanics prevent short, you will have all the information you
problems using their five senses. They look, need to prevent or respond to problems like a
listen, sniff, taste, and touch, hovering over a professional. In fact, these chapters are almost
system like a hunter stalking prey. One or more like having a seasoned professional on board
of the five senses can tell the mechanic quite a with you as you puzzle through the sometimes
lot about what may or may not be happening baffling situations that come up on every boat,
with a given system, and knowing the signs of be it large or small.
impending problems goes a long way in heading These chapters have been crafted to make
them off at the proverbial pass. When some- it as easy as possible for you to access the
thing does go wrong, in spite of the mechanic’s information. For example, this chapter is all
vigilance, the five senses play an important role about using your five senses to troubleshoot
in helping to diagnose the problem. your diesel engine. The chapter is broken
The following five chapters will take you down into parts, each dedicated to a particu-
through a unique approach to troubleshoot- lar subsystem related to your diesel. Under
ing and maintenance by showing you how each of these you will find a series of symp-
you can put your five senses to work. The toms organized according to which of the five
same terms and vocabulary you will find in senses you would use to identify a problem
service manuals and hear when discussing or potential problem. If you see black smoke
problems and remedies with mechanics have billowing out the exhaust pipe, naturally that
been included deliberately. Professionals will symptom would fall under troubleshooting

151
152 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

by sight. Following the symptoms are sub- 2. Look for any possible restriction of
headings that will tell you how urgent the coolant or raw-water flow.
problem is, what suggested actions you should 3. Check the engine service manual
take to address it, and background material on for cooling system troubleshooting
what may have caused it. information.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE Other causes include a faulty thermostat,
WHAT YOU SEE the water pump not turning at full speed (belt
ENGINE TAKES LONGER THAN NOR slipping), or the coolant pump’s metal impel-
MAL TO REACH FULL SPEED IN GEAR ler slipping on the pump shaft.
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored ENGINE TAKES LONGER THAN NOR
Suggested actions: MAL TO WARM UP
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
1. Check for a plugged air or fuel filter. monitored
2. Check for line or other obstruction on Suggested actions:
the propeller.
3. Check the engine service manual for 1. Conduct a stovetop test on the ther-
recommendations. mostat. As previously mentioned, sim-
4. Check the bottom of the boat for ply place the thermostat in a saucepan
fouling. full of water, heat the water, and use a
5. If there were recent repairs, contact meat thermometer to verify that the
your marine mechanic. thermostat opens at the correct water
temperature.
The problem may also result from insuf- 2. Replace the thermostat if necessary.
ficient throttle travel due to a faulty governor
control linkage, a poorly adjusted throttle The thermostat’s opening temperature
control, or even something like a bolt that’s will be stamped on it. To see if the thermo-
too long and causes a restriction of the gov- stat opens, watch its center section for a slight
ernor control at the engine. A propeller of gap that opens and grows wider as the tem-
incorrect size is another possibility. perature increases. If the thermostat opens
late (at a higher temperature than its rating),
ENGINE HEATS UP FASTER THAN replace it.
USUAL, THEN OVERHEATS
Urgency: Requires immediate attention ENGINE QUICKLY GOES TO FULL
Suggested actions: SPEED WHEN PUT IN GEAR AND FULL
THROTTLE IS APPLIED, BUT THE
1. Shut the engine down. When it cools, be BOAT IS SLOW TO ACCELERATE
sure the cooling system is full and the belts Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
on the belt-driven water pump are tight. monitored
 DIESEL ENGINES 153

Suggested actions:
The best solution is to fabricate a shut-down
1. Double-check the pitch and diameter paddle in advance to be ready for just such
an emergency. Make it from aluminum or
of the prop. steel to cover the air intake on the engine. To
2. If the boat has an extremely shallow be prepared in case you need to use it, wipe
draft, it may need a cupped-out four- all dust away from around the engine’s air
blade propeller. intake where the air filter is attached. Remove
the air filter before starting the engine to
expose the end of a pipe that the paddle can
The problem is most likely with the pro- seal against to positively stop the airflow if
peller, particularly if it happens after a propel- needed.
ler change. There may not be enough wheel 2. Shut off the fuel supply to the injection pump
by breaking off the main fuel suction fitting
pitch and/or diameter. If the boat has always going to the engine. Identify this fitting
behaved this way, then it may have never had before you need to know where it is! Lay a
the correct propeller. Check with your local two-pound hammer near the fitting in case
the fitting must be broken.
propeller shop for recommendations. 3. Put a load on the engine to reduce engine
speed. In some cases, it is possible to engage
the power-take-off and the transmission at
the same time. Doing this may buy some
WORK-AROUND SOLUTION time. However, this option won’t be much
help if you have a runaway diesel generator.
Stopping a Runaway Diesel Engine Remember to stand more in front of the
When an engine races beyond its normal engine or behind it in case you cannot stop
it! Internal pieces (shrapnel) of the engine
governed top speed to the point where it will will break out through both sides of the block
destroy itself, it’s called a runaway. A run- and fly through the engine room. These pieces
away engine can fly apart and seriously injure of engine will hurt you. If the engine can’t be
anyone nearby. The pistons will hit the valves, stopped, get away from it!
often breaking them, and seconds later the
connecting rods are likely to break apart too.
Take precautions against a runaway diesel
ENGINE RAPIDLY ACCELERATES OUT
engine any time fuel system governor work has
OF CONTROL, WITH AN INCREASING
been done. Before starting the engine after
ROAR OF ENGINE SOUND
repairs, act as though you know it’s going to
become a runaway. Have strategies in mind so Urgency: Requires immediate attention
you can respond immediately. Here are some Suggested actions:
helpful tips to help you deal with a runaway engine:
1. Using a shut-down paddle, shut off the
1. Shut off the intake air supply. Never try to air to the intake side of the engine.
block an intake air passage with any part
of your body! However, it may be possible to
2. Break off the most critical fuel fitting
block the air filter inlet pipe with a piece of with the largest diameter in the fuel
wood or the bottom of a plastic oil bucket. system.
Even some heavy cardboard can help. Note: You’ve got to identify the correct
fitting before you encounter this problem!
154 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Runaway engines, also called overspeeds,

occur most often because of rust inside the
fuel injection pump, which causes the gover-
nor linkage to lock up in the full fuel posi-
tion when the engine is shut off. When this Look for
air bubbles
happens, it becomes impossible to pull the in glass.

throttle to low idle/or even to turn off the

engine. The quickest way to stop a runaway Sight glass is put
in-line, before the
engine is to place a shut-down paddle over injection pump.
the engine’s air intake.

ENGINE “HUNTS” OR THE SPEED Fig. 11-1. Insert a sight glass before the injection pump.

SURGES AT HIGHER RPM

Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient and the injection pump as shown in
Suggested actions: Figure 11-1.
2. Check the engine service manual
1. For two-stroke diesels this is often troubleshooting section to learn more
a tune-up issue that is resolved by about the causes of hard starting.
adjusting the fuel system according to
the engine manual. Cold ambient temperatures or a weak
2. Four-stroke engines will do this when starter are other likely suspects.
the fuel filter is becoming plugged or
the system is pulling air in with the ENGINE RELUCTANT TO TURN OFF OR
fuel. WON’T STOP AT ALL
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
A faulty governor may be another cause. Suggested action: Rust makes the mechan-
ical fuel injection system hard to control.
ENGINE “HUNTS” OR THE SPEED Suspect water in the fuel and follow up with
SURGES AT LOWER RPM the engine manual to troubleshoot this prob-
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient lem. Diesel fuel injection systems with internal,
Suggested action: See previous symptom. spring-loaded electric shutoff solenoids may not
shut off if the mechanical linkage between the
ENGINE CRANKS, BUT TAKES A VERY solenoid and the pump gets rusty. Check the
LONG TIME TO START engine manual to determine how the engine is
Urgency: Requires immediate attention configured.
Suggested actions:
RUST IS APPARENT ON THE OUTSIDE
1. Check for air in the fuel system by OF ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION
plumbing a suitable temporary sight Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
glass between the transfer pump monitored
 DIESEL ENGINES 155

Suggested action: Watch for sources of replacing a serpentine belt, be sure to diagram
water in the engine room. the layout of the belt first, noting where pul-
Unpainted iron and steel will rust in the leys engage the rib side and the flat side of
marine environment, but it will be much the belt.
worse if the metal is exposed to salt spray.
When an engine is positioned low in the WHAT YOU HEAR
bilge, bilge water can splash it in rough seas. ENGINE HAS DULL KNOCK
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
CORROSION VISIBLE ON ALUMINUM Suggested actions:
ENGINE COMPONENTS
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be 1. Have the engine oil analyzed routinely.
monitored It will help you spot trouble early.
Suggested action: Watch for sources of 2. Cut open the oil filter and inspect as
water in the engine room. previously described.
Exposing aluminum to salt spray or strong 3. If metal is present in the filter, the oil
detergents will cause corrosion. Aluminum pan must be removed to allow inspec-
can be polished or cleaned with a very mild tion of the connecting rods.
rotating abrasive pad to remove corrosion,
or it can be sprayed with a cleaner such as Bad rod bearings are noisy as they start to
Zep-a-lume. There are marine grades of alu- fail. They start out sounding dull, and the sound
minum that resist corrosion better than oth- becomes sharper as the piston begins to travel
ers. For best results, coat new aluminum, or farther upward in the cylinder and contacts the
aluminum that has been cleaned, with zinc valves. A very loose (excess clearance) bearing
chromate primer before painting. can even let the piston slap the cylinder head.

VISIBLE WEAR ON EDGES OF A DRIVE ENGINE BEGINS KNOCKING SEVERELY

BELT Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be Suggested actions:
monitored
Suggested actions: 1. Stop the engine.
2. Cut open an oil filter to inspect for
1. Obtain a new belt and a spare, and aluminum or iron in the oil.
change it when convenient.
2. Check belt idlers and belt-driven units When a foreign object gets on top of a pis-
like the alternator for proper belt ten- ton, the engine will make a knocking noise.
sion and alignment. Also, overheated pistons expand to seize in
the cylinder wall, and something has to give.
Wear on the edge of a belt means either What gives is usually the connecting rod or
that the pulleys are misaligned or that some- connecting rod bolts. After the rod breaks, the
thing is rubbing on the side of the belt. When broken end swings around on the crankshaft
156 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

and begins to behave like an out-of-control Fluid-filled Cylinder

jackhammer. The side of the cylinder block
can be broken out by this action, ejecting
pieces with great force—sometimes great Piston Rings
enough to injure or kill a person or to dam-
age the other engine in a twin-engine instal-
lation. Note: It is a good safety practice to avoid
standing beside a running engine whenever pos-
sible. Should an engine blow up, it is better to be
standing in front of or behind it.

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START THE

ENGINE, THE ENGINE GOES “CLUNK”
AND COMES UP HARD AGAINST
SOMETHING, AND WILL NOT TURN
ANY FARTHER
Fig. 11-2. Fluid over the top of a piston is known as a
Urgency: Requires immediate attention hydraulic lock.
Suggested actions:
four-stroke marine engines come up on a
1. Unless recent repairs have been done, compression stroke within two revolutions
this will most likely be a hydraulic lock of the crankshaft. Use caution because
problem. the fluid forcefully squirts out through the
2. Use the engine service manual and the cylinder head injector holes!
lists below to determine if there is a 2. If the engine is equipped with glow
hydraulic lock and figure out how to plugs, it is easier to remove them
clear it. instead of the injectors and bar the
engine over. This allows the fluid to be
When fluid rises over the top of a pis- purged from the cylinder.
ton (Fig. 11-2), the engine is said to have a 3. Another method is to make the
hydraulic lock, and this will stop crankshaft exhaust valves leak temporarily, so the
movement until the fluid is removed. There fluid is pumped out to the exhaust
are three ways to address this: manifold when the engine is barred
over. Remove the valve cover and iden-
1. Remove all injectors and bar the tify the exhaust valve for each cylinder.
engine over by hand, turning it two full Tighten the valve lash adjustment on
revolutions of the crankshaft. This will each exhaust valve so that the valves
pump out any fluid in the cylinders. are held open just a little (even when
(See Fig. 2-15 and the accompanying they’re off-the-cam just a few thou-
sidebar for information on barring an sandths of an inch). Now bar over the
engine over.) Note: The cylinders on all engine and the excess fluid will flow
 DIESEL ENGINES 157

out into the exhaust manifold through Suggested actions:

each cylinder’s exhaust valve. Caution:
Be sure to readjust the valve lash when 1. Stop the engine and cut open a filter. If
the fluid is pumped from the cylinders. there is metal in the filter, avoid start-
Note: If the starter motor were used to ing the engine until repairs are made.
turn the engine with fluid on top of a 2. Remove the valve cover and look for
piston, severe damage could follow. This a valve stem that stays lower than the
damage could include a bent connecting rest. This is the sign of a bent valve.
rod or a bent or cracked crankshaft.
The knock is probably due to a faulty rod
SHARP, METALLICSOUNDING NOISE bearing or something in the cylinder. After a
WHEN STARTING COLD, DISAPPEARS faulty rod bearing gets enough slack in it, the
WHEN WARM piston on that cylinder will begin hitting the
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient valves first and the head itself later on.
Suggested actions:
ENGINE HAS METALLIC CLICK
1. Cut open an oil filter and look for Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
metal debris, the sign of a failure. Suggested action: Stop the engine and adjust
2. Consult the engine service manual and the valve lash according to the engine manual
listen to similar engines in other boats. specifications.
Loose valve adjustment may also be the
If the sound goes away when the engine is problem.
warm, then it may be normal. Older engines
with precombustion chambers will make a HEAR CLICKING NOISE WHEN TRYING
terrific clattering sound that is actually nor- TO START ENGINE, BUT IT WILL NOT
mal. Newer direct injection engines can also START
do this if air is coming in with the fuel. A Urgency: Requires immediate attention
seeming metallic knock can also be an injec- Suggested actions:
tor that is atomizing poorly.
Every boat has a unique acoustical environ- 1. Check the DC electrical system’s volt-
ment. The material the boat’s hull is made of age. If it’s a 12-volt system, the gauge
will greatly influence the sound of an engine. should show 12 volts.
Older, heavy wooden hulls absorb mechani- 2. If voltage is low, check for a loose belt
cal noise, a metal hull reflects and even ampli- on the alternator.
fies noise, and fiberglass hulls fall somewhere 3. Turn off the battery switch and clean
between these two extremes. both ends of all battery cables.
4. Try jumping the starter on the engine.
SHARP METALLIC KNOCK, ALL THE Jumping means temporarily connecting
TIME the starter solenoid pull-in, or energiz-
Urgency: Requires immediate attention ing, terminal to the positive battery
158 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Battery Positive Cable

Jump Start by Momentarily

Connecting These Terminals
Starter with a Length of Wire
Solenoid
Solenoid Pull-in
Terminal
(From the Wheelhouse
Starter Switch)

Starter Motor

Battery Ground
Cable

Fig. 11-3. Bypassing the starter switch.

cable lug on the solenoid as shown in SLIGHT BUT DEFINITE CHANGE IN

Figure 11-3. SOUND OF ENGINE, TRANSMISSION,
5. If all else fails, have the starter solenoid OR GENERATOR
and starter motor bench-tested at an Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
auto parts store, or replace them both. Suggested actions:

Clicking without the engine starting usu- 1. Cut open filters from the engine and
ally means there is low voltage to the starter the transmission and inspect. Again,
motor or battery terminal connections are metal means damage.
dirty. A dirty battery case can drain the bat- 2. Generator: Inspect the bearing (known
tery between the posts. Be sure to keep the as the single bearing).
battery clean! 3. Tighten the coupling bolts between the
engine and generator.
ENGINE HAS HIGHPITCHED SQUEAL
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Fuel in the oil can also cause this problem,
Suggested action: Stop the engine and as can a turbocharger impeller contacting its
tighten all intake manifold and exhaust sys- housing. The impeller should not touch the
tem bolts to specifications. housing.
Steel shim gaskets in either the intake
or exhaust system can work like the reed in STARTER MOTOR SOUNDS LIKE GEARS
a clarinet. Tighten all fasteners on both the STRIPPING
intake and exhaust sides of the cylinder head. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
 DIESEL ENGINES 159

Suggested actions: connected to the crankshaft, and also some-

thing loose in a front-mounted power-take-
1. Replace the starter as soon as possible. off arrangement.
2. To get the engine to start one more
time, turn the crankshaft one-quarter SQUEALING AT FRONT OF ENGINE
turn and see if the starter drive will Urgency: Requires immediate attention
engage enough teeth to start the Suggested action: Stop the engine and
engine. check all drive belts for adequate tightness.
3. Remove the starter to inspect the fly- A slipping alternator belt or an alterna-
wheel and starter drive teeth. tor that is beginning to fail, or has failed, can
cause this kind of noise, especially if the alter-
The starter drive may not be engaging the nator has a locked-up bearing. As mentioned
flywheel due to bad teeth on the starter drive above, a shim-type intake or exhaust side
or on the flywheel ring gear. gasket on the cylinder head can also make a
terrible racket.
ENGINE HAS “RAPPING” NOISE NEAR
THE FRONT, BUT DOWN LOW LOUD RUMBLING NOISE NEAR ENGINE
Urgency: Requires immediate attention STARTER
Suggested actions: Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
1. Cut open the oil filter and inspect. This
may be a timing gear failure. 1. The noise may be the starter drive stay-
2. Check the tightness of the front crank- ing engaged with the flywheel. Stop the
shaft damper bolts. engine, turn off the battery power to
3. Listen to the alternator and water the starter, and remove the starter to
pump to hear if the noise is coming inspect the starter drive gear. Check to
from a faulty bearing inside these see if the gear or the flywheel ring gear
components. teeth show signs of extreme wear.
4. Check the engine service manual to see 2. If the starter is fine, check the tightness
how the front of the engine is con- of the flywheel bolts.
structed, and what might be causing
noise there. When the starter drive (also known as the
Bendix) stays engaged in the flywheel, it will
Be mindful of the position of the engine’s cause an ominous rumbling.
timing gear and of the end of the engine
where the oil pump is driven. Noise low on “BELCHING” NOISE INSIDE THE
the front of the engine can be associated ENGINE AFTER RUNNING FOR A
with these two components. Other potential SHORT TIME, THEN STOPS
sources of noise from this location are the Urgency: Not urgent
crankshaft damper and pulley, where they are Suggested action: None.
160 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

This kind of noise is normal on some was put in gear. Check the fuel level and try
engines. It happens when freshly pumped it again.
lube oil is pumped into the lubrication sys-
tem after an engine starts. The oil displaces ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT IS SPINNING
the air pockets that formed as cavities in the WELL, BUT THERE IS NO SOUND OF
lube oil system the last time the engine was IT TRYING TO START
turned off. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
ENGINE LETS OUT A LOUD “SQUAWK”
AND THEN LOCKS UP STOPS 1. Verify the shutoff lever, if so equipped,
TURNING is in the run position.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention 2. Verify the energize-to-run feature, if
Suggested action: Severe overheating or a so equipped, of electronic injection
mechanical failure inside the engine will cause pumps is energized.
this sound. Follow engine manual suggestions. 3. Verify all fuel valves are open and the
Piston, rod bearing, or main bearing sei- engine is getting fuel.
zure will suddenly stop an engine. Cut open 4. Fully prime and bleed the air from the
the oil filter and check for metal fragments. fuel system according to the engine
Engine seizures like this usually require the manual instructions.
cylinder head or heads to be removed as part 5. Check the engine manual for trouble-
of the troubleshooting procedure. shooting hard starting.

WHEN THE ENGINE IS PLACED IN A mechanical fuel shutoff or compres-

GEAR, IT SOUNDS LIKE IT LUGS sion release lever that is not returning to the
BADLY AND THEN DIES WITHOUT run position will make it impossible for the
TURNING THE PROPELLER SHAFT engine to start. Find the mechanical shutoff
Urgency: Requires immediate attention lever, if so equipped, and check its movement.
Suggested actions: Make sure it is in the run position.

1. Check for line in the propeller by ENGINE WITH STANADYNE DB2 OR

attempting to turn the propeller shaft DB4 FUEL SYSTEM STARTS, THEN
with a pipe wrench. IMMEDIATELY DIES, OR WON’T START
2. Check the transmission filter for the AT ALL
presence of metal, which indicates a Urgency: Requires immediate attention
failure. Suggested action: Check for pressure on
the return side of the fuel system.
Shaft brake problems, if so equipped, These Stanadyne fuel injection systems
line in the wheel, or broken gear teeth in the will shut off the engine if pressure develops on
transmission can stop an engine. However, the return side of the system. One of the most
the engine may have just run out of fuel as it important things to check in either a DB2 or
 DIESEL ENGINES 161

DB4 configuration is the fuel return line. If the transmission, especially around
fuel line is blocked or obstructed in any way, the propeller shaft coupling to the
the engine will not run. Check the energize- transmission.
to-run solenoid, or determine if the injection 4. Check the front crankshaft vibration
pump uses an energize-to-stop solenoid. damper pulley and any other pulleys
for slack, and if any is found consult
SQUEAKY SERPENTINE BELT, SQUEAK the service manual.
GOES AWAY WHEN BELT IS SPRAYED
WITH STARTING FLUID OR WATER Loose mounting bolts can allow move-
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be ment and vibrations. A soft engine mount-
monitored ing foot (Fig. 11-4), one that is bearing less
Suggested action: Replace the serpentine than its intended share of engine weight,
belt and idlers. This should stop the belt from will also cause vibration problems and can
squeaking. even cause engine failure if one corner of the
According to belt manufacturers, all belt engine and transmission mounting system is
idlers should be replaced with the belt. lower or higher than the others. A soft foot
should be shimmed, not tightened. When
TROUBLESHOOTING BY TOUCH all four mounting bolts are tightened in
A NEW ENGINE VIBRATION IS response to vibrations caused by a soft foot,
NOTICED the engine casting bends, which also bends
Urgency: Requires immediate attention the bore in which the crankshaft turns.
Suggested actions: When the bending of the bore gets too
severe, vibration will occur. If any engine
1. Hold a glass of water on a flat spot on mount foot seems to spring upward when
both the front and rear of the engine its bolt is loosened, it is a soft foot. Have a
while it is running. On a big engine, the marine mechanic check it.
ripples will be more pronounced where
the vibrations are the most intense.
(On a small engine the vibrations are
more general.) Run the engine at slow
and high speeds to see which throttle Correct
Shim-pack
setting causes the worst vibrations. Installed

2. Ascertain whether the vibration is

present only when the transmission is
engaged. If so, the transmission is the
likely source of the vibration. If this is
the case, determine whether the vibra-
tion is worse in forward or reverse gear. Fig. 11-4. A soft foot will need to be shimmed with off-the-
3. Check for loose mounting bolts shelf or fabricated sheet-metal shims stacked to
and fasteners on the engine and the needed thickness.
162 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

If recent work has been done in the area,

ON ENGINE VIBRATIONS it should be rechecked. Be sure to check all
engine mounting bolts for tightness and for
Some engines will normally vibrate at a certain proper flywheel installation.
speed. For example, an engine may vibrate
near 1,150 rpm, but as the speed increases VIBRATION AT THE FRONT OF THE
the engine settles down and runs smoothly. ENGINE
Therefore, not all engine vibrations indicate Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
a problem. However, a change in any engine’s Suggested actions:
vibration pattern may indicate trouble. If you
notice a change, the first thing to do is cut
1. If applicable, check the engine’s front-
open the oil filter and look for metal particles.
mounted power-take-off for vibration
and for tightness of the fasteners.
WHEN YOU HOLD A GLASS OF WATER 2. Check the front crankshaft pulley hub
ON A FLAT SPOT ON THE TRANSMIS and vibration damper as well as all
SION OR REAR OF ENGINE, RIPPLES retaining bolts and fasteners.
ON THE WATER SHOW THAT REAR OF 3. Check the front engine mounts and the
ENGINE SHAKES MUCH MORE THAN power-take-off mounts, if so equipped.
THE FRONT
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Vibration at the front of the engine may
Suggested actions: indicate looming problems. Do not wait too
long to investigate.
1. Perform the checks discussed with
the preceding symptom. (On a small WHEN CHECKING FOR VIBRATIONS,
engine, the vibrations are more general ENGINE’S FRONT POWERTAKEOFF
and harder to localize.) PTO, IF SO EQUIPPED, SHAKES MORE
2. Watch for any visible wobble in the THAN THE TRANSMISSION
propeller shaft as it turns. There Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
should be none. monitored
3. If there is any wobble in the shaft, Suggested actions:
vibrations should occur only when the
transmission is engaged. Check engine 1. Check that the front motor mount
and shaft alignment. bolts are tight. Tighten if needed. Note:
4. Check the transmission suction screen. Most engine manuals provide a bolt-
5. If the problem persists, remove the tightening table based on the diameter
starter motor and pry gently on the and grade of the bolt.
flywheel to verify that it is tightly 2. Verify that the crankshaft vibration
fastened to the crankshaft. If the fly- damper pulley is tight and running
wheel is loose in its housing, it must be true on the crankshaft or hub.
removed and repaired according to the 3. Read the engine service manual and
engine service manual. consult a marine mechanic if needed.
 DIESEL ENGINES 163

FLYWHEEL TIGHTENING PROCEDURE If you have done everything by the book and
the flywheel still has too much wobble (accord-
When the mating surfaces between the crank- ing to your service manual), loosen the bolts.
shaft and flywheel are damaged or dirty, mis- If you kept track of the first bolt you tightened,
alignment will occur. Misalignment will cause you can start by tightening the opposite bolt in
the flywheel to wobble and vibrate. the bolt circle first. This will often cure a wobble
Similarly, when flywheel housings are installed and the resulting vibration. If all such efforts
off-center or cannot seat perfectly flat on the cyl- fail, consult the engine manual for directions
inder block, there will be misalignment that may on checking for a bent crankshaft.
damage the transmission or an engine-mounted
generator.
Flywheel wobble can also occur when the fly- A PTO is any place on the engine where a
wheel is bolted improperly to the crankshaft— pulley or some other arrangement is turning
when the bolts are not tightened alternately with to power an accessory. Often, the boat’s steer-
increasing torque. This can cause imbalance ing pump is powered by an engine PTO. A
even though the mating surfaces are clean and PTO that has excessive run-out (appears to
flat when bolted. When installing a flywheel or wobble off-center) or that is out of balance
flywheel housing, verify that you are using the will vibrate.
proper bolts and gently file the mating surfaces
totally flat. Start tightening the bolts with very ENGINE VIBRATION AT LOW SPEED
little torque, alternating across the bolt pattern Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
until the bolts are tightened to full torque (see Suggested actions:
illustration). Use the manufacturer’s suggested
tightening pattern if it is available. Note: Some 1. Check to see if the starter is still
manufacturers require new flywheel bolts every
engaged in the flywheel (it should not
time the bolts are removed.
be), and that the flywheel is tightly
1
mounted to the crankshaft (it should
3
be). See also Figure 11-6.
6
2. Confirm that the transmission drive
adapter is attached properly to the
flywheel and that the elastomer
5
8 drive member is intact and properly
attached. The elastomer drive is a syn-
thetic drive cushion that some propul-
sion engines have between the engine
7 4 flywheel and the transmission. The
cushion protects the transmission from
2 engine vibrations.
Fig. 11-5. Suggested pattern for tightening flywheel 3. Check for a loose front crankshaft
bolts. damper or pulley. Tighten the bolts as
needed.
164 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

1 3

2 Flywheel

Misalignment
Off-center
between the
housing.
flywheel and
the housing.

Out-of-round flywheel housing.

Corrected by Corrected by re- Corrected by

moving the fly- centering and learning if the
wheel housing re-doweling or by cause is due to
to a centered replacement. the flywheel
position around position, fly-
the flywheel. wheel housing
position, or both.

Fig. 11-6. Flywheel housing and possible problems.

4. Check engine mounts to make sure ENGINE VIBRATION AT HIGH SPEED

they are intact and that all bolts are Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
tight. Suggested action: See the last two symptoms.

One or more cylinders misfiring or not fir- PULLEYS OR HUBS APPEAR TO WOB
ing at all will also cause engine vibration. BLE AND DON’T SEEM TO RUN TRUE
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
ENGINE VIBRATION AT MEDIUM Suggested actions:
SPEED
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient 1. If a vibration accompanies the visible
Suggested action: See previous symptom. wobbling of a pulley or hub, stop the
A starter that stays engaged in the fly- engine immediately and investigate
wheel will damage both the starter and the by gently prying on the part in ques-
ring gear. The flywheel ring gear will eventu- tion. Obvious slack indicates loose
ally fail because of where the engine tends to bearings.
come to rest when turned off. If the engine 2. If bearings are loose, consult the ser-
was recently repaired or rebuilt, confirm vice manual or a mechanic.
that the correct pistons, rods, and wrist pins 3. Check for an oil leak in the area where
were used. the piece is wobbling. If oil is leaking,
 DIESEL ENGINES 165

the bearings and possibly the shaft

FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING must be repaired when the seal is
PROBLEMS, RING GEAR DAMAGE replaced.
4. If there is no vibration or oil leak,
Flywheel ring gear wear takes place over time continue to run the equipment until a
as the starter drive jumps out and wrenches mechanic can check it.
the engine to life during starting. Wear pat-
terns will differ depending on the number of Sometimes castings, like a rotating crank-
cylinders in the engine. See Figure 10-12. shaft pulley, may have a rough (unmachined)
On a four-cylinder engine, for example, portion that may appear lopsided when there
every time the engine is turned off it is likely is really nothing wrong. Also, the pulley may
that the flywheel will come to rest with one of appear to have excess run-out, when in fact
two possible areas directly in front of the starter
there is no problem. Run-out is defined as a
drive gear. Therefore, a four-cylinder engine will
piece of machinery rotating off-center.
have two spots of high wear opposite each other
on the ring gear. A six-cylinder engine will have OIL AND FUEL SYSTEMS
three areas of high wear, and a V-8 engine will
have four. In time, this worn area will shorten WHAT YOU SEE
the life of the starter drive gear. If you find your- ENGINE OIL IS BLACK AND VERY
self frequently installing new starters on your THICK MORE VISCOUS THAN
engine, it is time to inspect the flywheel ring NORMAL
gear and take action if wear is detected. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
To correct ring gear wear, first remove the Suggested action:
flywheel and put it on a block of wood before
driving the old starter ring gear off with a Change the oil and filter when con-
hammer and chisel. To install the new ring venient and shorten the oil change
gear, locate the front face of the ring gear interval by 50 hours.
before the installation. Then heat the gear to
350°F and drop it in place on the flywheel.
Thick, black engine oil indicates either
Heating the ring gear expands it enough to
allow it to drop into position without any ham-
that the oil change interval is too long or
mering. When the ring gear cools to the same that the piston rings’ sealing ability has been
temperature as the flywheel, an interference degraded. Poor ring sealing can result from a
fit will hold it in place. number of causes:
When a new ring gear is not available, I
have seen old-timers remove the damaged 1. Installing the piston rings on the
ring gear, turn it 20 degrees, and reinstall it pistons by hand during an engine
on the flywheel. This gives the teeth on the rebuild can slightly bend the ring so
starter drive gear a new area to engage. This that it is not round in the cylinder. A
solution will usually work until a new ring mechanic should always use a piston
gear can be obtained. ring installer to uniformly expand
the piston rings during a rebuild. An
166 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

even better practice is to install cyl- OIL IS BLACK, BUT APPEARS THIN
inder kits that come with the piston AND DRIPS RAPIDLY FROM DIPSTICK
and rings preloaded in the cylinder Urgency: Requires immediate attention
liner. Suggested actions:
2. Not breaking in the engine according
to the engine manufacturer’s direc- 1. Change the oil and filter immediately,
tions can cause ring seating prob- and shorten your oil change interval by
lems. For example, sometimes the 50 hours.
engine must run the first few hun- 2. Cut the filter open and look for shards
dred hours with special break-in oil or flecks of metal. If any are found,
in the crankcase. Break-in oil allows it usually means extensive repairs are
a little more friction between the needed.
piston rings and the cylinder liner
surface so that the surfaces of the This condition suggests that soot or
rings mate properly with the inside unburned fuel is getting past the piston rings
of the cylinder liner. and into the oil. When the oil is thinned by
3. Another cause of poor ring seat- fuel, the oil film strength breaks down, causing
ing is the ingestion of abrasive dust severe metal-to-metal wear. Metal-to-metal
due to a faulty air filter or a suction wear puts metal particles in the lubricating oil.
leak between the air filter and the A portable viscosity tester (such as the model
turbocharger. offered by the Exxon Mobil Corporation) can
be used to check for soot or fuel contamina-
tion of the oil as described in the accompa-
nying sidebar. If this test suggests fuel in the
AIR-INTAKE PLUMBING LEAKS oil, look for the cause. The sources will vary
based on engine construction, and the engine
There is an easy way to test the intake air manual must be consulted.
system plumbing between the air filter and
the engine for good seal integrity. Begin by
ENGINE OIL REMAINS HONEY
starting the engine and letting it idle, then
COLORED EVEN WITH MANY HOURS
lightly spray all the joints in the air plumb-
ON THE OIL
ing with starting fluid and see if the engine
speed suddenly changes. A joint is any place Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
in the intake air plumbing that has a gasket Suggested action: Verify at oil change time
or an O-ring seal. Engine speed will fluctuate that the proper oil is used in the engine.
if the engine gets a whiff of the starting fluid. Honey-colored oil may be a reason to double-
This indicates a leak that will allow dust to check the detergent level in the oil you are using.
get into the cylinder and damage it. Dust can For non-synthetic diesel engine oil, it is usually
also enter the engine during repairs if open- a good sign when the oil blackens immediately
ings aren’t covered. after changing. This proves that the detergent
level is high enough to keep soot and other
 DIESEL ENGINES 167

USING A PORTABLE VISCOSITY TESTER

To use the tester shown (Fig. 11-7), lay it flat on a level surface and fill the used oil reservoir with a
sample of oil from the engine. Fill the new oil reservoir with the same brand and weight of oil as the used
oil. The next point is critical: Both oils must be precisely the same temperature. The easiest way to do this
is to let containers of the new and used oil sit in the same place for several hours before testing.
Overfill each reservoir slightly and let the excess flow through the small overflow passage into the over-
flow containers at the end of each reservoir. This ensures that both test reservoirs are holding precisely the
same amount of oil.
Now tip the tester up on its beveled end and watch the oil flow down the grooves. When the new oil gets to
the midpoint shown in the illustration, the used oil should be somewhere between points A and B. If the used
oil is uphill of point A when the new oil is at the midpoint, there is too much soot in the oil, and the oil change
interval must be shortened by 50 hours. At the end of this shortened interval, the oil should be retested. If the
used oil has flowed all the way downhill past point B, there is fuel in the oil. Shorten the oil change interval by
50 hours and locate the source of the fuel contamination.
Dual
Reservoirs

Used
Oil Point “A”
Midpoint of
New Oil Travel
Same brand,
weight, and Point “B”
temperature
as used oil.

Fig. 11-7. The Exxon Mobil Corporation portable oil

viscosity tester.

impurities suspended in the oil stream flowing On the other hand, it is also possible, if
through the oil filter. Too low a detergent level, your engine is fitted with superior after-
as is typical of a cheap brand of oil meant for market bypass (partial-flow) filtration, that
gasoline engines, may allow sludge to build up this is a normal condition due to very clean
and cling to internal engine surfaces rather than engine oil. Synthetic oil stays clean much
being carried to the filter. There are several oil longer by resisting the heat and chemical
filtering options, as shown in Figure 11-8. See breakdown that affects petroleum-based
Chapter 5 for further discussion. lube oil.
168 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

From oil To engine

pump bearings

Full oil flow

Pressure inside bypass
filter is reduced by orifice Partial oil
flow back
Full-flow
to oil pan
oil filter
Bypass
oil filter

Routing of oil flow with both

full-flow and bypass oil filters

Fig. 11-8. Bypass and full-flow filtration.

DARK OIL DRIPS LEAKS SLOWLY under the following symptom.) In either case,
FROM ENGINE pinpoint the source of the leak and make
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient repairs.
Suggested actions:
CLEAR, THIN, OILY SUBSTANCE FUEL
1. Find the general location of the leak by LEAKING FROM ENGINE
narrowing it down to the left or right Urgency: Requires immediate attention
side, front or rear, or even the top or Suggested actions:
bottom of the engine.
2. After finding the general location, trace 1. To avoid a fire hazard, immediately
the leak to a gasket, fitting, or crack, shut off the engine and see if the leak-
then check your engine manual for age slows or stops.
instructions. 2. Wipe the area dry and then start the
engine to pinpoint the location of the
Dark oil leaking from an engine indicates leak so that repairs can be made.
a lube oil leak, but it’s important to be care-
ful on this point because it is also possible The path of the fuel running down the side
for fuel leaks to wash down the side of the of the engine will appear to shimmer when a
block. If the fluid is thick, it’s engine oil, but if light is held up to it, thus making it easier to
it is very thin, it is fuel. (Refer to wet stacking spot. The source of a fuel leak can be a loose
 DIESEL ENGINES 169

filter, loose fitting, a faulty gasket or seal, a there may also be a leak of oil that has cir-
crack in some part of the fuel system, or a fuel culated through the valve train and is drain-
line that has cracked or rubbed through. ing through the cylinder head on its return to
the oil pan. Replacement of the head gasket is
LIGHT BROWN OIL LEAKING FROM often required to stop a leak like this.
ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient BLACK OIL LEAKING FROM THE BOT
Suggested actions: TOM OF FLYWHEEL HOUSING
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
1. Stop the engine and check the trans- Suggested actions:
mission oil level.
2. Follow the oil lines that run back and 1. Keep the engine oil level up until
forth between the transmission and the repairs can be made.
oil cooler. This will help you pinpoint 2. The flywheel must be removed to per-
leaks so they can be repaired. mit inspection of the possible sources
3. Check the opening in the bottom of of the leak (Fig. 11-9).
the flywheel housing to see if the oil
leak is coming from this area, indicat-
ing a leak from the front transmission
oil seal.

Lighter-colored oil, as opposed to black

oil, is from the transmission and may be an 1-Wet Bolt Hole
in Block
indication of a leak in an engine-mounted 2-From O.D. of
Crank Seal
oil cooler. Oil leaking from the front oil seal
requires removing the transmission to gain 3-Wet Bolt Hole
in Crankshaft
access to the seal.
Crankshaft

BLACK OIL LEAKING FROM BETWEEN

THE CYLINDER HEAD AND BLOCK 4-From Between
Lip Seal and
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Crankshaft
Suggested actions:

1. Keep the oil level up in the engine until

repairs can be made.
B.E.
2. Check the service manual for
instructions.

This leak could be from the oil supply port Fig. 11-9. Potential sources of engine oil leaks in the
to the cylinder head valve mechanism, but flywheel housing.
170 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

The bottom of the flywheel housing can

potentially leak either black oil (from the Engine

engine crankcase) or light brown oil (from

the transmission). The source of black oil is Front Transmission
Seal
most often the rear crankshaft oil seal (on
the engine side of the flywheel). If crankcase
pressure gets too high (above two pounds
psi) due to a plugged or restricted engine
crankcase vent, both the front and rear seals
of the crankshaft may fail. Fig. 11-10. The transmission input shaft oil seal on the front
On the other hand, a generator engine of the transmission.
can only leak dark oil from the flywheel
housing because there is no oil in the gener- OIL LEAK AT FRONT OF ENGINE,
ator side of the flywheel. This is one impor- BEHIND CRANKSHAFT PULLEY OR AN
tant area where a generator engine differs ACCESSORY DRIVESHAFT PULLEY
from a propulsion engine. Figure 7-18 Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
(page 94) shows the flywheel housing and Suggested action: Keep the engine full of
crankshaft seal arrangement used on every oil until repairs can be made.
type of engine, regardless of whether the The front crankshaft oil seal can leak,
application is for propulsion or for generat- especially if crankcase pressure is high due
ing electricity. to a plugged crankcase breather. Use a slide
hammer to replace the seal (see Figure 7-19),
BROWN OR LIGHTCOLORED OIL or follow the service manual instructions.
LEAKING FROM BOTTOM OF FLY
WHEEL HOUSING METALLIC PARTICLES GLITTER IN
Urgency: Requires immediate attention ENGINE, HYDRAULIC SYSTEM,
Suggested actions: TRANSMISSION, OR THE OIL FILTER
MEDIA PAPER
1. Check for a low oil level in the trans- Urgency: Requires immediate attention
mission and keep it full until repairs Suggested actions:
can be made.
2. Consult the transmission service 1. This is most likely a mechanical failure in
manual for specific instructions. progress. Consult the equipment manual
and call a marine mechanic if possible.
For engines that power transmissions (as 2. If the engine must be run, operate it at
opposed to generators), a lighter-colored oil the lowest possible speed.
leaking from the flywheel housing indicates a 3. If the sound of the engine changes, a
transmission oil leak. The source is the trans- failure is imminent. Remove the valve
mission input shaft oil seal (Fig. 11-10) located cover and inspect the valve train, look-
on the transmission side of the flywheel. ing for obvious damage.
 DIESEL ENGINES 171

Cutting open an oil filter is one of the best stored. Two cylinders were badly rusted, and
ways to learn the condition of an engine, trans- the engine was in the process of failing. The
mission, or hydraulic system. The filter media engine represented by the paper on the right
shown in Figure 11-11 are from two different would have had no more metal visible in the
engines. Both engines were brand new (not filter after the second oil change.
rebuilt), with three hours of operating time. When flecks of metal are discovered in a
The filter paper on the right shows a normal filter after you cut it open, try to determine
amount of metal for a new engine that is still what type of metal it is. Brass or copper
breaking in. Notice, though, that the paper from crankshaft thrust bearings, on engines
on the left has more metal and is darker. The equipped with them, will be golden or yellow.
dark particles are rust from rain entering Metal from aluminum (pistons on most
the exhaust pipe of the engine while it was engines) will be dull white. Metal from

abnormally high amount normal amount

of rust and metal of metal

Fig. 11-11. Comparison of oil filter media from two new engines. Filter on right shows the normal amount of rust and metal.
172 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

chromium (piston rings) will be bright and install a new pump, new high-pressure fuel
shiny, while cast iron or steel from crankshaft, lines (if so equipped), and new injectors.
cylinder, or even cylinder block wear will be One major U.S. auto manufacturer recently
dull gray. Passing a clean magnet over the came up with a fix for one of their diesel
filter paper (media) will pick up flecks of engines that was experiencing chronic fuel
ferrous (iron-containing) metal and flag injection pump failures due to the low lubric-
your attention to potential problems. Be ity of the newer diesel fuel formulation. The fix
alert when the magnet attracts iron and included replacement of the injection pump,
steel particles, because some engines have all eight injectors, and all eight high-pressure
either cast-iron or steel pistons. Reduction fuel lines to the injectors. The fuel tank also
shafts, gears, and bearings are made of steel, had to be removed and steam-cleaned. They
and hydraulic pump gears are made of soft also suggested motorists use Stanadyne diesel
steel. A file will easily scratch gears made fuel conditioner in the fuel.
of soft steel.
BLACK SOOT OR DARK RUST PARTI
FUEL TEST RESULTS PRINTOUT CLES SEEN IN ENGINE OR TRANSMIS
SHOWS LUBRICITY OF FUEL IS POOR SION LUBE OIL FILTER MEDIA WHEN
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be THE FILTER IS CUT OPEN
monitored Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
Suggested actions: monitored
Suggested actions:
1. Add diesel fuel conditioner to the fuel
and retest the fuel at the time of the 1. For soot problems, shorten the oil change
next refill. interval until the accumulation clears up.
2. If the lubricity isn’t up to specifications, 2. For rust, examine the engine or trans-
find a new fuel supplier. mission for water or coolant intrusion.

Modern diesel fuel is sometimes too “dry” As previously mentioned, passing a very
for older diesel fuel injection systems designed clean magnet over filter paper laid out flat
for fuel lubrication. In the past, diesel fuel had after you cut open the filter will determine
much better lubricating qualities. When there whether iron or steel particles are present.
is damage and wear in a fuel system from lack The best way to clean the tip of a magnet is
of lubrication, ultrafine metal particles will with a blast of high-pressure compressed air.
contaminate the diesel fuel tanks in small Ferrous metals (iron or steel) often look
boats. If the engine’s fuel injection pumps keep dark or even black in the filter and will be
failing, it may be necessary to put a 2 micron drawn to the magnet. Black particles that are
fuel filter on the return line of the fuel system not attracted to the magnet are soot. The pres-
to keep the wear particles from circulating ence of large amounts of soot in the engine oil
through a new fuel system. When there has filter can indicate poor maintenance or faulty
been a failure such as this, it is important to cylinder kits (pistons, rings, and liners).
 DIESEL ENGINES 173

CREAMCOLORED SLUDGE NOTICED the oil pressure might drop to 40 psi at

INSIDE ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION a coolant temperature of 180°F, whereas
OIL FILL CAP the normal oil pressure at that tempera-
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient ture is 45 psi. Changing the oil and filter
Suggested actions: will restore the oil pressure to normal
until more fuel leaks into the oil.
1. What you are seeing is an emulsifica-
tion, or mixture, of oil and water. Keep Fuel leaking into the crankcase oil will
track of how often the cooling system cause the oil level to slowly rise. In an even
needs filling in case coolant is leaking worse scenario, an engine that is burning oil,
into the engine crankcase lube oil. the fuel can enter at the same rate as the oil is
2. Also check for coolant or water in the burned, making the problem difficult to spot.
oil by loosening the oil drain plug as The oil thins out, losing its lubricating proper-
outlined earlier. Coolant or water will ties, until suddenly there is an engine failure!
leak out first.
3. If coolant is leaking into the oil, take ENGINE OIL LEVEL ON DIPSTICK
such measures as are outlined in the SLOWLY RISES OVER TIME AND OIL
equipment’s service manual. BECOMES MILKY
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
The causes and consequences of cool- Suggested actions:
ant leaking into oil are covered in detail in
Chapter 3. See also Figure 11-12. 1. A milky color to the oil indicates water
(coolant) in the oil.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL ON DIPSTICK 2. Verify the presence of water in the oil by
SLOWLY RISES OVER TIME stopping the engine and letting it stand
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be for thirty minutes before loosening the oil
monitored pan drain plug. If water or coolant is pres-
Suggested actions: ent, it will be the first liquid to drip out.
3. Change the oil immediately and
1. Stop the engine, let it cool for thirty consult the service manual or a marine
minutes, then loosen the oil drain plug mechanic to find the source of the leak.
and check for water in the oil. If water
(coolant) is present, the source of the Water (coolant) entering and emulsifying
leak into the oil pan must be found. with the oil causes milky oil. The cause might
2. Fuel leaking into the oil will also cause be a faulty head gasket, cracked head, faulty
the oil level to rise. The vital clue that liner seal, cracked or pitted liner, cracked
fuel is leaking into the oil is that the water-cooled exhaust manifold (due to over-
oil pressure gauge will read lower than heating), or failed oil cooler core or associated
normal for a given coolant temperature. seals. Coolant in the oil will quickly destroy
For example, the oil level might rise and an engine.
174 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

ENGINE OIL LEVEL RISES DRAMATI Coolant can rapidly fill the crankcase if the
CALLY, IMMEDIATELY AFTER ENGINE O-ring liner seals at the bottom of the liners fail,
IS TURNED OFF whether the engine is running or not. Likewise,
Urgency: Requires immediate attention pitting and pinholes in the cylinder liners due
Suggested action: Drain the oil and watch to galvanic corrosion will permit coolant to leak
to see if coolant comes out first. If any cool- into the crankcase. Adding a conditioner to the
ant is seen, there is a severe coolant leak into cooling system will prevent galvanic corrosion.
the oil pan that will need to be found. Call a If pitting problems persist, have an electrician
marine mechanic. test both the AC and DC electrical systems for
Symptoms like this indicate a huge coolant ground faults. A failed engine oil cooler will
leak that may quickly cause a hydraulic lock in also allow coolant into the oil.
one or more of the engine cylinders. A broken
marine water-cooled exhaust manifold or a water- ENGINE OIL LEVEL RISES SLOWLY
cooled turbo exhaust housing that has cracked WHEN ENGINE IS OFF, EVEN AS THE
while the engine is running will pump a lot of EXPANSION TANK COOLANT LEVEL
coolant into the oil system and will continue to DROPS
do so until the coolant expansion tank empties or Urgency: Requires immediate attention
the engine is shut off. When the engine is turned Suggested actions:
off, all water above the head gasket will leak into
the cylinders through open exhaust valves. Those 1. This symptom is coolant leaking into
cylinders that have both valves open when the the oil. If possible, remove the oil pan
engine comes to rest will be flooded, with the to find out where the coolant leaks into
excess then flowing out through the intake valve, the crankcase.
into the intake manifold, and into any other cyl- 2. After the source of the leak is found,
inder that has an intake valve open. consult the service manual to learn the
best way to deal with the leak.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL SUDDENLY VERY
HIGH WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING Some imported copies of Caterpillar heads
Urgency: Requires immediate attention will only leak when hot and when they are
Suggested actions: torqued down on the engine because of their
very poor casting quality.
1. Stop the engine.
2. Drain the oil and determine whether ENGINE OIL LEVEL SUDDENLY VERY
it is fuel or coolant that is causing the LOW
level to rise. This is done by watching Urgency: Requires immediate attention
to see what comes out of the drain plug Suggested actions:
first. If water comes out first, then the
problem is coolant in the oil. If not, the 1. The first clue that this is happening,
problem is likely fuel in the oil. when the engine is running, is a reduc-
3. Call a marine mechanic. tion in oil pressure on the pressure
 DIESEL ENGINES 175

FOR THE WORKBOAT

Coolant in the Lube Oil

The customer reported that the main engine’s coolant was apparently leaking into the oil pan. We
took the starboard inspection plates from the Caterpillar D353 and could see water trickling down the
inside of the third cylinder.
It seemed straightforward enough to remove the forward cylinder head and look for the source of the leak.
When we pulled the head, we found no visual evidence of a head gasket failure. Looking closely at the
head showed no apparent cracks either. We took the head to the machine shop, where it was subjected
to a Magnaflux test. (Magnaflux is a brand name for a practice called magnetic particle testing to reveal
surface and subsurface flaws in ferrous metals.) The test identified no problems. Next, we filled a tank
with hot water and did an air pressure test with the head submerged, and this showed no problem.
After these two tests, we reasoned that the problem must have been with the head gasket after all. We
reinstalled the head, and we decided to do a pressure test on the engine. We found that it leaked exactly as it
had the day before! Pulling the intake manifold, we looked in the head’s intake air port for the third cylinder (see
illustration), and there we saw the crack! The head would only leak when it was torqued down on the engine.

Air from
Coolant Turbocharger
Expansion
Tank

Cracked
Intake
Port

Combination
Piston & Rings Intake Air
Jacketed Aftercooler
Exhaust Assembly
Manifold and Intake
Manifold

Coolant Drips Past

Piston Rings Into
Oil Pan

Fig. 11-12. Coolant leaking from a cracked intake port.

176 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

gauge. Stop the engine and inspect the after the engine is turned off. Pressure on the
engine for an oil leak. water (coolant) side of the oil cooler is higher
2. If nothing obvious is found, refill than the pressure on the oil side, causing
the crankcase and inspect under coolant to travel to the oil side. As previously
the engine. If the oil pan has rusted explained, leaks in the cooler core will cause
through, replace the pan or use a tem- liquids to travel to either side, the oil or water
porary fiberglass patch to stop the leak side, because of pressure differences.
until a new pan can be obtained.
3. If there are no obvious oil leaks, check WATER OR COOLANT SQUIRTS OUT
for oil in the cooling system and pressure- ENGINE’S DIPSTICK HOLE WHEN DIP
test the engine oil cooler. Replace if STICK IS REMOVED
needed. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
Cracks or rust holes in the oil pan will
allow lube oil to leak into the bilge. It’s easy 1. This happens after a swamping or a
to spot oil in the bilge because it floats on the severe internal coolant leak such as
surface of the bilge water. Oil can also quickly from a leaking oil cooler. Drain the
transfer into the cooling system through a water from the engine oil pan.
split engine oil cooler. Thus, when oil pressure 2. The source of the leak must be found
drops quickly, you should also check the cool- before starting the engine. Check the
ing system for the presence of oil. service manual for recommendations
or call a marine mechanic.
COOLANT WATER FOUND IN TRANS 3. After the leak is repaired, bar the
MISSION OIL FILL OPENING OR ON engine over manually (two complete
DIPSTICK revolutions; see the sidebar on
Urgency: Requires immediate attention page 36) to check for a hydraulic lock.
Suggested actions: Most engine manufacturers now sell
an engine turning tool for use in turn-
1. Check the engine coolant level. If it is ing the engine by hand when service
low, refill as needed. work is done. As previously discussed,
2. Determine whether the water came in a hydraulic lock occurs when there
from the oil cooler or leaked into the is fluid above a piston that prevents
transmission from a high level of bilge the engine from turning. If the engine
water. The best way to do this is to won’t turn two complete revolutions, a
pressure-test the oil cooler. hydraulic lock probably exists. If there
3. Replace the oil cooler if it is defective. is no hydraulic lock, start the engine.
4. Change the transmission oil and filter.
Water can enter the crankcase if the engine
Failure of a transmission oil cooler can room is flooded due to a leaking stuffing box,
allow engine coolant to enter the oil cooler a crack or leak in the hull, a leaking through-hull
 DIESEL ENGINES 177

fitting, or a leaking bow thruster. Tasting the a harmful level of pressure in the crankcase.
fluid will reveal whether it is fresh water, salt Engine crankcase vents carry these blowby
water, or antifreeze coolant. Coolant has a gases out of the engine. In many boats, the
sweet taste. gases are vented into the engine room! When
an engine is nearing rebuild time or is fail-
LIGHT OIL RUNS OUT DIPSTICK HOLE ing altogether, it will begin to produce much
WHEN STICK IS REMOVED larger amounts of blowby. This is a vital clue
Urgency: Requires immediate action that the engine cylinders are weak and the
Suggested actions: piston rings are excessively worn. A plugged
crankcase vent will cause these same symp-
1. Change the engine oil and filter and toms. To check the crankcase vent, look for
monitor the oil level while investigating drooping or kinked crankcase vent hoses.
the problem. Further, disconnect the vent line at the engine
2. Use the engine only for emergencies to see if excess pressure still comes out of the
until the problem is solved. dipstick hole when the dipstick is removed. If
it doesn’t, you have found the problem: The
This can only be diesel fuel. Each engine vent line is obstructed. If removing the vent
has its own peculiar route or routes for fuel to line doesn’t help, the engine probably needs
enter the crankcase. The engine service man- a rebuild.
ual will help you ascertain how the engine’s
fuel system is constructed and the most likely CRANKCASE PRESSURE BLOWS DIP
pathway fuel will take when entering the STICK FROM DIPSTICK TUBE
engine oil. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
OILY VAPOR, IN LARGE AMOUNTS,
BLOWS OUT OF ENGINE’S CRANKCASE 1. Verify that the crankcase vent tube
VENT OR DIPSTICK TUBE is clear and that crankcase fumes are
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be free to vent. If the vent is obstructed,
monitored clear it.
Suggested actions: 2. If the vent is working as it should, the
engine may be tired or recently dam-
1. Check that the crankcase vent tube is aged and should be checked for cylin-
unobstructed. der wear.
2. Cut open an oil filter to check for the
presence of piston material, which, if High crankcase pressure resulting from
found, indicates that an engine failure one or more failed pistons will overwhelm the
is occurring. crankcase vent and cause the pressure to blow
the dipstick from its tube. On some engines,
Inside the engine, combustion gases that this condition can even blow lubricating oil
leak past the rings into the crankcase will build from the dipstick tube.
178 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

ENGINE OIL PRESSURE READS LOW do leak due to rust, corrosion, or cracking.
WHEN ENGINE IS WARM Something can also hit an oil pan and split
Urgency: Requires immediate attention or dent it. A severely dented oil pan not only
Suggested actions: reduces the volume of the pan, but it may
break off the oil pump pickup. Try not to
1. Change oil and see if the pressure damage the oil pan. On most boats it’s pretty
increases. If so, fuel is getting into the inaccessible and hard to remove for repairs.
oil. Consult the engine manual for
instructions. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE HIGHER THAN
2. If changing the oil doesn’t help, verify the SPECIFIED WHEN ENGINE IS WARM
low oil pressure with a good test gauge. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested action: Check for a faulty elec-
Possible causes include a faulty oil pres- trical gauge or sender.
sure gauge, faulty oil line to a mechanical oil While a faulty electrical oil pressure gauge
pressure gauge, faulty pressure sender or wir- or a faulty pressure sender (if the gauge is
ing, low oil level, a pressure relief valve stuck electric) are the likely suspects, other consid-
open, weak or broken pressure relief valve erations include a sender incompatible with
spring, contamination plugging the oil suction the engine, oil with viscosity too high for the
strainer in the oil pan, fuel in the oil, plugged engine, or even very cold oil.
oil filter (some systems), or a worn oil pump.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE READS
NO OIL PRESSURE AT ALL HIGH WHEN AIR TEMPERATURE IS
Urgency: Requires immediate attention EXTREMELY COLD
Suggested actions: Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored
1. Make sure there is oil in the engine. Suggested action: This is normal in frigid
2. Install a mechanical pressure gauge (a weather, especially if heavy (30 weight) oil is
great thing to have on any boat) and used in an engine.
start the engine to check the pressure. It’s important to follow the engine manu-
3. Refer to the engine service manual to facturer’s instructions for using lube oil that
learn how to check the oil pump drive is the correct weight, based on the usual out-
mechanism, then check that the oil door temperature where the boat is operated.
pump is turning. Many boat operators neglect this, which can
4. Check the engine manual regarding the lead to problems in the lube oil system.
location of the lube system pressure
relief valve. Be sure the valve is operat- ENGINE OIL PRESSURE READS LOW
ing freely and not stuck open. ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS COLD
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
The drain plug in the oil pan may not have Suggested action: Check the oil pickup
been replaced after a change. Also, oil pans tube (see Figure 10-17).
 DIESEL ENGINES 179

Oil that is so cold and thick that the pump TACHOMETER READS LOW, ENGINE
can’t easily move it, or a faulty seal or gasket WON’T SEEM TO GO TO FULL SPEED
where the tube attaches to the oil pump, will Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
cause low oil pressure readings. Suggested actions:

1. Before starting to troubleshoot a

FUEL PRESSURE READINGS, WHEN
tachometer problem, determine if your
CHECKED WITH A TEST GAUGE, ARE
tachometer is a mechanical or an elec-
LOWER THAN SPECIFICATIONS
tronic unit.
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be 2. Try to verify or disprove the reading
monitored with a test tachometer.
Suggested actions: 3. If the engine has a mechanical tachom-
eter, verify that the spinning drive cable
1. Most often this will be a partially (like a speedometer cable) is spinning
plugged fuel filter. at the tachometer gauge end. If not,
2. Follow the engine manual directions replace the cable; otherwise suspect the
for filling and bleeding the system. gauge.
4. If the engine has an electronic tachom-
There are several probable causes: a plugged eter with a magnetic pickup mounted
fuel filter, low fuel level in the tank, faulty on the flywheel housing, check the
fuel pump or fuel pump gauge, faulty electric fuse, the magnetic pickup adjustment,
sender, or an unrestricted fuel-return fitting, the magnetic pickup, and the gauge, in
if so equipped. (Older two-stroke Detroit this order. Consult the manual for the
Diesels, for example, require a restricted procedure to reset the dip switches in
fuel return in order to build sufficient fuel the gauge, if so equipped.
pressure.)
Mechanical tachometers work like an old
magnetic speedometer, that is, the engine
FUEL PRESSURE READINGS HIGHER drives a spinning magnet that attracts and
THAN SPECIFICATIONS moves a lever arm behind the gauge face. If
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient it’s a mechanical tachometer, it may have the
Suggested actions: wrong drive gear ratio, or the cable drive may
be worn or slipping. The electronic tachom-
1. Check for a faulty gauge or sender. eter may be calibrated improperly, or the boat
2. Check the engine service manual for may have an improperly sized propeller.
further suggestions.
TACHOMETER READING WAVERS,
A sticky fuel pump pressure relief valve or WITH ENGINE SOUND CONSTANT
a kinked fuel-return line may also be causing Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
the higher readings. Suggested action: See previous symptom.
180 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

NO READING ON TACHOMETER AT 2. Pressure-test the engine cooling system

ALL to learn how coolant is getting into the
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient oil pan.
Suggested action: See previous symptom 3. Check the engine oil cooler, liner seals,
(tachometer reads low). cylinder head, and head gasket.
WHAT YOU TASTE
NO TASTE TO WATER FOUND IN Coolant entering the lube oil in the engine
ENGINE OIL PAN may indicate a serious problem.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: WATER IN ENGINE OIL PAN IS SALTY
BOAT IS OPERATED IN SALT WATER
1. This is fresh or rainwater, and the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
source of the leak into the oil pan must Suggested actions:
be found. If you have a vertical, dry
exhaust system, check it to ensure that 1. Find the possible routes of salt water
rain isn’t getting in through the stack. into the bilge and then check the bilge
2. Look for evidence of swamping in the pumps and switches to see if they are
engine room, such as a high-water allowing the bilge water to get too high.
mark on the side of the engine or 2. For boats with horizontal saltwater-
nearby equipment. cooled exhaust systems, check the sys-
tem to see if salt water is entering the
When an engine is turned off, it always engine through an exhaust valve port.
comes to rest with a few intake and exhaust
valves open. Rainwater coming down the inside The engine may have been swamped or bilge
of a dry exhaust stack will flow through an open water may have gotten high enough to enter the
valve and into the cylinder. In the cylinder, the engine through the rear crankshaft main seal.
water will slowly trickle down through the pis- COOLING SYSTEM
ton ring gaps and into the oil pan.
WHAT YOU SEE
WATER IN ENGINE OIL PAN TASTES ENGINE PAINT TURNS DARKER THAN
SWEET ORIGINAL COLOR AFTER AN APPAR
Urgency: Requires immediate attention ENT ENGINE OVERHEATING
Suggested actions: Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
1. After noting that the color of the liquid
dripping from the oil pan drain plug 1. Let engine cool a few hours.
appears to match the color of the anti- 2. Check engine oil and coolant levels.
freeze coolant in the engine, confirm by 3. Refill cooling system if low.
tasting a tiny amount. Coolant will taste 4. If the oil level is higher than normal
sweet even when contaminated with oil. or higher than before the overheating
 DIESEL ENGINES 181

Overheating of an engine or even a trans-

Engine Oil Floating on Water in Oil Pan
mission to temperatures above 270°F will
Layer of Water on Bottom of Oil Pan cause the paint on the unit to darken.
Overheating of this magnitude usually requires
extensive repairs and the services of a marine
Oil Drain Plug
mechanic. What if the engine appears to over-
When the Drain Plug is Loosened, heat (darkened paint; hot engine space) with-
Water—If Present—Will Leak Out First
out it registering on the temperature gauge?
Such an occurrence is possible if all the cool-
Fig. 11-13. Notice what type of liquid comes out first when ant has suddenly leaked away, because few
opening the oil drain plug.
engine temperature gauges will register over-
heating unless coolant is touching the sender.
incident, loosen the oil drain plug in Engine mechanics keep track of engine
the oil pan and note what leaks out paint color during disassembly, especially
first (Fig. 11-13). If coolant or water when an engine of unknown history is brought
leaks out before oil, there is coolant into the shop for a rebuild. (See Chapter 10
in the oil, and the engine has been for more information on what to look for dur-
severely damaged. ing an engine rebuild.) Decisions about testing
If the engine died when hot, remove or replacement of components are sometimes
the oil filter and use a filter cutter or based on changes of paint color.
hacksaw to cut it open on the threaded During overheating, the upper half of
end. Remove a piece of the filter media the engine, including the cylinder heads and
paper and inspect it for the presence of the water-cooled exhaust manifold, if so
metal. Shards or flecks of metal in the equipped, will get much hotter than the lower
oil filter usually indicate piston seizure parts of the engine. This is because the fuel
and the need for extensive repairs. (See burns in the upper third of the engine, and
Figure 10-20.) even a small diesel engine must manage mil-
lions of British thermal units (Btu) of heat
If the engine temperature gauge was reading production every hour! As a point of refer-
higher than normal or the engine space seemed ence, note that a three-bedroom home can
hotter than usual, this indicates engine over- easily be heated in the winter by a 100,000
heating. The engine may have even stopped Btu furnace. After any change in paint color,
running due to the extreme heat, though it is even if the engine appears normal after the
possible that the engine will start again after immediate cause of overheating is addressed,
cooling for an hour. Engines die when overheat- check the engine oil level carefully and moni-
ing because the pistons expand and become tor it closely. Use the engine cautiously for a
too large for the cylinder bores. When this few days to be sure it is OK.
happens, friction between the pistons and the As mentioned above, coolant in the oil
cylinder walls stops the pistons’ up-and-down means that the engine has been severely dam-
movement, and the crankshaft stops turning. aged. Coolant can enter the oil through any
182 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

of the following routes, depending on how test can also be performed on the cooling system
the engine is configured: pressure cap itself, if it begins to leak.
However, when huge amounts of steam and
1. Cracked cylinder head water gush from the pressure cap, it usually
2. Cracked water-cooled exhaust means the head gasket has failed and the
manifold engine is damaged.
3. Cracked jacketed turbocharger (into
cylinder, then down past piston rings) ENGINE OVERHEATS SEVERELY.
4. Leaking gaskets between the parts of TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS OVER
the jacketed exhaust system 210°F, STEAM IN ENGINE ROOM, AND
5. Failed head gasket ENGINE RADIATES FAR MORE HEAT
6. Failed cylinder liner seals, if so THAN NORMAL
equipped Urgency: Requires immediate action
7. Cracks or pinholes in the cylinder liner, Suggested actions:
if so equipped
8. Via the crankcase through the drive 1. Stop the engine and let it cool for an hour.
end of a gear-driven (as opposed to 2. Check the oil level; it will be high if
belt-driven) coolant pump coolant is entering the oil.
3. If the oil level is high, drain the
If the pressure-tested (Fig. 11-14) com- water from the oil pan and find a
ponents, such as oil coolers, exhaust mani- marine mechanic familiar with your
folds, or oil filter housings, fail the test and equipment.
leak, further disassembly and more specific 4. If the oil level was not out of the ordi-
testing of each piece is needed until the source nary, refill the cooling system and bar
or sources of the leak is found. Note: A pressure the engine over two complete turns.

Water Flow Through Pipe

Wall of Pipe

Water pipe leak is repaired with a weld and a

pressure gauge is installed to measure the
pressure that is used.
Compressed air nozzle
blows air into pipe to see if
it will hold pressure.

Fig. 11-14. Basic pressure testing.

 DIESEL ENGINES 183

5. If it bars over smoothly, start the detergent with water and pour it into the
engine and watch carefully for an exter- cooling system to break down the oil. This
nal leak. practice is not recommended, because dish-
6. If no leak is found, there may be a faulty washer detergent contains sodium that will
water pump or some other reason why cause corrosion in the cooling system. If
coolant is not circulating through the dishwashing detergent is used, the cooling
engine. Consult the engine manual for system must be flushed until all sodium is
more specific information on your system. gone. Only a coolant sample sent to a lab will
tell for sure that all of the oil is gone and that
Careful observation of all the gauges is the sodium level in the cooling system is low
important at all times, but especially dur- enough to run the engine safely. Contact the
ing overheating. See the previous symptom. engine manufacturer for instructions.
Fluid can flow either way in a leaky oil cooler,
as the next symptom shows. LIGHTERCOLORED OIL FOUND IN
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
BLACK OR BROWN OIL FOUND IN Urgency: Requires immediate attention
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM Suggested actions:
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: 1. Check the transmission oil level and
refill if needed. If the oil is low, it is
1. Black oil comes from the engine, and likely that it is entering the cooling
brown oil comes from the transmis- system through the transmission oil
sion. Verify the source of the oil. cooler, if so equipped.
2. Oil entering the engine’s cooling 2. Pressure-test and replace the oil cooler
system will most likely do so through as needed (Fig. 11-15).
a leaky oil cooler. If the oil is black,
pressure-test the engine oil cooler. This oil cooler has its bottom opening (on
3. If the oil is brown, pressure test the the oil side) plugged for a pressure test. A
transmission oil cooler. pressure gauge is teed into the other opening.
4. Follow the service manual instructions If the cooler can’t hold 50 psi of test pressure
for replacing the part of the system on the oil side, there’s an internal leak that
that is responsible for the leak, and could let coolant into the oil (engine off ) or
for flushing the oil from the cooling oil into the coolant (engine on).
system.
CLEAR WATER LEAKING FROM ENGINE
This is the opposite of the preceding Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
symptom, in that oil is traveling into the cool- Suggested actions:
ant side of the oil cooler and thereby contam-
inating the cooling system. Boatowners will 1. Check the cooling system coolant level
sometimes mix no-suds electric dishwasher and refill if needed.
184 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Pressure cause may be a pinhole in a thermostat hous-

Gauge ing caused by galvanic corrosion. (The front
of the engine is the end with the coolant
pump, and the rear of the engine is the end
with the flywheel.) Galvanic corrosion can be
Tee Fitting
prevented by keeping the antifreeze coolant
mixture slightly alkaline in pH, rather than
Air Supply
Line
acidic. Coolant test kits and coolant addi-
tives are available at fuel docks and most auto
parts stores.
Plug
Note: To test the level of the cooling system
conditioner in the field, turn your multimeter
Oil Cooler Assembly
onto the “Volts” function and ground the black
Engine
Coolant lead probe. Next, submerge the tip of the red
Engine Cylinder Block probe and observe the voltage in the coolant. If
the voltage is more than one or two volts, add
Fig. 11-15. Testing an engine or transmission oil cooler. conditioner. If the voltage is a lot higher, then
there is stray electrical current that must be
found by your marine electrician.
2. Start the engine and bring it up to
operating temperature. Because cool- COLORED WATER COOLANT MIX
ing systems are pressurized and the TURE LEAKING FROM ENGINE
pressure increases as the engine warms, Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
leaks will be worse (more apparent) Suggested actions:
when the engine is hot.
3. When the leak is found, determine if 1. Shut off the engine and refill coolant if
the problem is a gasket, O-ring seal, the level is low.
faulty hose, loose hose clamp, faulty 2. Pressurize the cooling system by
fitting, or a crack. replacing the pressure cap and bring-
ing the engine to normal operating
This symptom usually indicates one of the temperature.
following: 1) water is leaking from the cool- 3. When the engine is warm, turn it off,
ing system itself; 2) water is flowing from the and look for the leak with a good light
cooling system overflow; or 3) there is no source.
antifreeze protection in the cooling system. 4. Consult your service manual for
If there were, the leaking fluid would be the instructions on repairing the leak.
color of the antifreeze in the engine.
When resealing a faulty gasket, a thin coat Antifreeze coolant is often red, blue,
of silicone sealer is often helpful. If the leak orange, green, or yellow, so a leak tinged with
is high up toward the front of the engine, the these colors indicates coolant.
 DIESEL ENGINES 185

COOLANT SOMETIMES AIR BUBBLES from crushing or kinking, which will

TOO LEAKING FROM BETWEEN THE reduce coolant flow.
CYLINDER HEAD AND THE CYLINDER 5. If you have a freshwater-cooled system
BLOCK with a heat exchanger, be sure that raw
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient water is flowing by looking overboard
Suggested actions: at the raw-water outlet. (If your boat
has wet exhaust, the used raw water
1. Keep the cooling system full until is injected into the exhaust and exits
repairs can be made. through the exhaust pipe.)
2. Consult the service manual for 6. If you see no raw-water flow, be sure
instructions. the raw-water pump is working. If the
impeller in the pump disintegrates or a
This type of leak indicates that coolant is blade breaks off, the pump won’t move
flowing past or near the head gasket. Bubbles water and cool the engine. Also check
usually indicate a slight compression leak. the raw-water strainer for plugging
The head will normally need to be removed from seaweed or trash.
to fix this type of leak. 7. To test for combustion gases in the
cooling system, attach a pressure gauge
WATER IS OVERFLOWING FROM COOL to the cooling system and start the
ING SYSTEM EXPANSION TANK engine. If combustion gases are enter-
Urgency: Requires immediate action ing the cooling system, the pressure
Suggested actions: will increase beyond the system’s
pressure cap rating within two or three
1. Stop the engine and let it cool. Do minutes. When this happens, the cyl-
not loosen the pressure cap (if so inder head must be removed to allow
equipped) until the engine is cool checking the head for cracks and to
enough to touch with a bare hand replace the cylinder head gasket.
(about 140°F).
2. Refill the cooling system and watch for The simplest and most common reason
obvious leaks. Check the oil level to that an expansion tank overflows is that it has
learn if coolant is now going into the been overfilled. When the engine and coolant
oil pan as a result of overheating from get up to temperature, the excess coolant has
coolant loss. to go somewhere. An expansion tank overflow
3. Obstructed coolant flow will cause loss might also mean that the engine has over-
of coolant. Check that the engine cool- heated and combustion gases are entering the
ant pump is indeed free to turn. If it is, cooling system by way of a bad head gasket.
remove it and make sure the impeller is
tightly attached to the impeller shaft. COOLANT SLOWLY VANISHES WHEN
4. If your system includes a keel cooler, ENGINE SITS IDLE FOR LONG TIME
visually inspect it to verify that it is free Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
186 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Suggested actions: A FINGER WIPED INSIDE COOLING

SYSTEM FILLER NECK UNDER THE
1. Tighten all hose clamps. Most often COOLANT PRESSURE CAP COMES
the problem is a slow leak on one of AWAY COATED WITH OILY SCUM
the coolant hoses. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
2. If the problem persists, ask a marine Suggested actions:
mechanic to pressure-test the cooling
system. This will help determine if 1. Check the engine oil level and refill
there is internal leakage in the engine, if needed. If the oil is low, it is likely
and, if so, where it is happening. that engine oil is entering the cooling
system through the oil cooler.
When coolant is lost from an idle engine, 2. Pressure-test and replace the engine oil
these are the usual suspects: 1) leaking fittings cooler as needed.
or hoses between the engine and a keel cooler
(if so equipped); 2) leaking from a keel cooler When oil enters the engine’s cooling sys-
into water surrounding the hull; 3) leaking tem, it emulsifies with the coolant and reduces
fittings or hoses between a heat exchanger (if the coolant’s ability to transfer heat. As the
so equipped) and the engine; 4) leaking fit- oil transfers into the cooling system, levels
tings or hoses between the expansion tank drop in the lube oil system. Soon the engine
and the engine; 5) leaking from the heat (or the transmission; see following symptom)
exchanger core (if so equipped) into water runs out of oil, locks up, and is permanently
surrounding the hull; 6) leaking from pinholes damaged.
in the thermostat housing due to galvanic The source of the oil is either the engine
corrosion (which will also allow slow leakage or the transmission oil cooler. If you see
of coolant into the bilge); 7) leaking from a black, oily film in the coolant, it’s the engine
cracked cylinder head or block, or any other oil cooler, and if you see lighter-colored oil
water-jacketed part such as a turbocharger (the same color as the transmission oil), it’s
or exhaust manifold; 8) leaking from a faulty the transmission oil cooler. A pressure test
of the offending oil cooler is the next step.
head gasket, a cracked cylinder liner, or a faulty
O-ring seal. Oil in the cooling system makes it very likely
that coolant is also getting into the engine or
COOLANT SLOWLY VANISHES WHEN transmission oil. Note: Small sailboat trans-
ENGINE RUNS missions do not have oil coolers. However, as a
Urgency: Requires immediate action general rule, it is safe to say that most transmis-
Suggested action: Same as above. sions used on engines over 50 hp will have an
A cracked cylinder head or a crack in a oil cooler.
jacketed exhaust manifold can also cause an
engine to burn coolant (turn it into steam) and COOLANT TEMPERATURE READS
expel it through the cylinder or the exhaust LOWER THAN USUAL WHEN WARM
stream. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
 DIESEL ENGINES 187

Suggested actions: for the engine, or a thermostat stuck closed,

or the water pump may not be turning fast
1. Begin by reading the engine service enough to move coolant through the cool-
manual cooling system troubleshooting ing system. Check for a slipping belt on belt-
section. driven pumps and also check the impeller; it
2. Plug a spare gauge into the panel to may be slipping on the shaft or a blade may
verify the accuracy of the low reading. be missing. If the boat is equipped with a keel
3. If no change is detected, install a new cooler, the plumbing may be obstructed or
sender to further verify that the low flattened, and if operating in freezing temper-
reading is accurate. atures, the coolant may be frozen somewhere
4. If you confirm that the temperature is in the keel cooler, preventing adequate flow.
indeed low, replace the thermostat.
COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE
A faulty electric gauge or gauge sender will DOESN’T REGISTER ANY RISE IN
incorrectly provide low coolant temperature TEMPERATURE
readouts. Another cause may be low coolant Urgency: Requires immediate attention
level. Low levels of coolant won’t reach the Suggested actions:
sender probe consistently and will prompt
erroneous temperature readings (coolant 1. This may be a result of coolant leak-
must touch the sender probe at all times). A ing out of the system. Most gauges
thermostat that won’t close could also be the will not register temperature on steam
root of the problem, or, on boats with small (the absence of water). Check the
engines equipped with oversize keel coolers, a engine to see if it is overheating. Shut
cooling system shunt line may bypass too much it off and go below. Carefully touch
and trigger low coolant temperature readings. the surface of the engine. If it feels too
hot to touch, then it has overheated
COOLANT TEMPERATURE READS HIGH and you must take appropriate action.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention 2. If the engine isn’t too hot to touch,
Suggested actions: chances are you’ve got a less serious
problem with the gauge, sender, or the
1. It is safest to always assume the worst wiring between the two.
and proceed as if the engine is over-
heating. Shut off the engine, and after If the problem is with the gauge or sender,
it cools check the coolant level and the it is easiest to replace the sender first, before
coolant pump to be sure it is working. moving on to the gauge.
2. Read the engine service manual to get
specific troubleshooting information. COOLANT HOSES BULGED OR
BLISTERED
The source of the problem may be a faulty Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
gauge or electric sender, a sender incorrect Suggested action: Replace as soon as possible.
188 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Bulging or blistering indicates that the hose overheat and fail unless the engine is immedi-
is weak or is being subjected to more pressure ately turned off. The cause is usually a clogged
and temperature than it can handle. Perhaps raw-water inlet. It may be that the raw-water
the hose is of the wrong kind for the applica- pump belts are slipping or the raw-water
tion. Blistering can also result from chemicals pump impeller has disintegrated.
attacking the rubber compound on the hose
exterior. It is possible that the rubber com- OUTLET OF RAWWATER HOSE ON
pound isn’t compatible with cleaning com- HEAT EXCHANGER WARM
pounds that are used to clean the engine room. Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
Avoid putting strong detergent on the hoses. monitored
Suggested action: None. This is normal.
WHAT YOU FEEL The raw water is carrying heat away from
RAWWATER COOLING SYSTEM PLUMB the engine cooling system, so it’s a good sign
ING COLD when the outlet plumbing is warm.
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored INLET TO COOLANT PUMP TOO HOT
Suggested action: This is normal and a TO TOUCH FOR LONG
good check to make several times during the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
day when operating the engine. Suggested actions:
Cold pipes prove the raw-water side of the
cooling system is working well. 1. Stop the engine and check for any pos-
sible restriction of coolant flow.
RAWWATER COOLING SYSTEM PLUMB 2. Be sure the coolant pump is turning.
ING HOT 3. Verify that the thermostat is opening
Urgency: Requires immediate attention or replace it.
Suggested actions: 4. Consult the engine service manual for
troubleshooting suggestions.
1. Shut off the engine and check for
obstructions on the outside of the raw- The excessive heat indicates that coolant
water strainer that could block water flow. is not circulating through the keel cooler or
2. Check inside the raw-water strainer for heat exchanger, depending on how the engine
debris that could block water flow. is equipped. The keel cooler tubes may be
3. Check the condition of the raw-water pinched or badly bent.
pump impeller and be sure it is turning.
4. Consult the engine manual for further OIL, COOLANT, FUEL HOSES HARD
instructions. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions:
This is a serious problem because a
freshwater-cooled engine depends on the 1. Replace the hoses.
raw-water pump for cooling and will soon 2. Avoid overtightening hose clamps.
 DIESEL ENGINES 189

Old hoses with high hours of operation, EXHAUST SYSTEM

or those that have been used in very hot con-
ditions, will get hard and should be replaced. WHAT YOU SEE
WHITE EXHAUST SMOKE ON
ENDS OF COOLANT HOSES SOFT STARTING COLD
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
Suggested action: Replace the hoses. monitored
Galvanic corrosion occurring in coolant Suggested actions:
hoses will soften hose ends where they con-
nect to the engine or cooling system fittings. 1. If the white smoke clears up when
the engine is warm, it may be normal.
SURFACE OF ORING SEALS ROUGH, Compare your engine smoke to other
OR SEAL HARD similarly equipped boats.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention 2. If the smoke does not seem normal,
Suggested action: Replace any rough or check the fuel injection timing and the
brittle O-ring seals. cylinder cranking pressure.
Do not use any O-ring that doesn’t have a
smooth surface, because it will not seal properly. So-called cold smoke occurs when fuel is not
It is really handy to string O-rings on a wire for completely burned in one or more of the cylin-
easy access; however, over time, the wire can ders. For some low-compression-ratio diesel
wear a flat spot on the seals and ruin them. It’s engines, this is normal. Low-compression diesel
best to store extra O-rings in sealed plastic bags. engines, those with compression ratios below
16:1, are designed so that turbocharging raises
WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR the cylinder pressure once the engine is warm.
BELTS TOO TIGHT However, if white smoke persists beyond five
Urgency: Requires immediate attention minutes after starting an engine with a compres-
Suggested action: Loosen belts immediately. sion ratio above 16:1, the engine will need to be
Belts that are tighter than needed will checked for low compression. Possible causes
reduce water pump and alternator bearing include low compression or late fuel injection
life. They should be tightened according to timing. Low compression can be caused by too
manufacturer’s specifications. tight a valve adjustment, scored pistons and lin-
ers, broken rings, valve and valve seat damage, or
WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR even a camshaft that was installed out of time.
BELTS TOO LOOSE
WHITE EXHAUST, ENGINE WARM
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested action: Tighten belts when
Suggested actions:
convenient.
Belts that are too loose will slip, causing 1. Check for the presence of fuel in the oil
noise, wear, and possible loss of efficiency in with the Exxon Mobil Corporation’s
belt-driven components. portable viscosity tester (see Fig. 11-7).
190 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Check the engine manual for model- indicates a leak and the need for turbo-
specific information. charger repair.
3. If no oil is found on the cold side of the
White smoke with the engine warm sug- turbocharger, check the hot side with
gests low compression or late injection timing. the engine stopped. See if the bear-
If white smoke persists after an engine is warm ings are loose enough to let the turbo-
or if the engine starts smoking white very sud- charger shaft wobble significantly, and
denly, especially after overheating, then severe if they are, you may have to try replac-
engine damage is possible. There may be a hole ing the turbocharger to see if that stops
in a piston or a bent or damaged valve. the blue smoke.
4. Finally, if all else fails, check the condi-
WHITE EXHAUST WITH YELLOW tion of the cylinders. Because there
TINGE, ENGINE WARM are so many cylinder configurations,
Urgency: Requires immediate attention it’s important to start by consulting
Suggested actions: the engine service manual. A cylinder
leak-down test or a compression test is
1. The engine may have antifreeze cool- usually done at this time. See Chapter
ant entering one of the cylinders or the 16 for more details on engine testing
exhaust stream. Check the coolant level. procedures.
2. If coolant is low, it is likely that coolant
is leaking internally. See Chapter 16 Blue smoke indicates that oil is either pass-
for more details. ing by the piston rings or valve guides or is
3. Consult the engine manual. passing from one or both of the turbocharger
seals, if the boat is so equipped. While it sel-
When coolant enters the cylinder or the dom occurs, adding too much of some kinds of
exhaust manifold and is exposed to intense fuel conditioner to the fuel will cause an engine
heat, it produces a very dense, off-white to to produce blue smoke. Blue smoke is usually a
yellow smoke. sign of a worn turbocharger or engine.

BLUE EXHAUST BLACK EXHAUST, BOAT IDLING AT

Urgency: Not urgent, but should be DOCK
monitored Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions: Suggested actions:

1. Monitor engine oil consumption. 1. Replace the air filter first.

2. Check the cold side of the turbo- 2. Check the valve adjustment dimen-
charger for an oil leak. Remove the sion next. It is possible that extremely
pipe that takes the pressurized air to loose valve adjustments will keep the
the cylinder head and inspect it for cylinder from filling with enough air to
the presence of oil. Any amount of oil burn all the fuel.
 DIESEL ENGINES 191

3. A marine mechanic can test the Worn mechanical fuel injection system
exhaust system back-pressure. Back- governors can cause erratic fuel system action,
pressure that is too high indicates a such as erratic rpm levels, also known as
collapsed muffler or other restriction in surging.
the exhaust system.
4. If nothing else is found, suspect poorly
NO SMOKE AND LOW POWER
atomized fuel, a result of tired fuel injectors.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions:
Sometimes an injector will seize inside
the cylinder head, requiring its removal or
1. For older engines with aneroid or air-
removal of the copper sleeve that holds the
fuel-ratio controls, check the settings
injector to address the problem.
of the controls.
However, it is possible to test injectors
2. For electronic engines, go into limp-
while they are still in the head. Just take the
home mode when there is a fault.
injector tester to the engine and do a pop test
Consult the service manual to learn
to get an idea of how the injectors perform. If
how to check and clear fault codes,
it pops well, then keep operating the engine,
and for other advice no matter what
and remove the head later at a more conve-
type of engine you have.
nient time. Note: When injectors are working
well, they suddenly open and spray or pop at a
For older engines this can actually indi-
preset pressure. If there is no pop, they are faulty.
cate an aneroid or fuel-ratio control is set
too lean, thereby reducing engine power.
BLACK EXHAUST, BOAT UNDER WAY
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored ENGINE BLOWS WHITE SMOKE RINGS
Suggested action: Follow the steps in the FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES AFTER
previous symptom. STARTING UP COLD
Causes of black smoke while the engine Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
is under load include a plugged air filter, a monitored
collapsed muffler, a stuck or hindered tur- Suggested action: Ignore them. They don’t
bocharger unable to spin freely, restricted air- seem to cause any harm.
flow to the engine room, an overheated engine Smoke rings might be related to low-
room, or too much propeller pitch. compression marine diesel engines that rely
on heavy turbocharging once the boat is
PERIODIC BLACK PUFFS, BOAT UNDER under way.
WAY
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be ENGINE EXHAUST TEMPERATURE
monitored TEST GAUGE PYROMETER READS
Suggested action: Remove and test the HIGH
injectors. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
192 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Suggested actions: See above symptom. Also, check for a

faulty throttle linkage that does not provide
1. Slow the engine immediately to protect full travel of the governor control on the
it until the condition is remedied. engine.
2. If this is a propulsion engine, check to
see if there is too much pitch or diam- ENGINE EXHAUST TEMPERATURE
eter in the propeller, which will cause GAUGE SHOWS NO READING
too much load on the engine. While Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
you can’t easily determine the pitch or Suggested actions:
diameter of a propeller when under
way, a lugging condition, with the 1. Replace the thermocouple (hot end).
engine unable to reach its full specified 2. Use the engine conservatively until you
rpm, is quite obvious. repair the system.

Most small recreational boats don’t have See the previous two symptoms.
instruments to measure the temperature of
exhaust. However, many large motoryachts DARK OR BLACK SUBSTANCE LEAKING
and workboats do have such instruments FROM EXHAUST MANIFOLD JOINTS
(pyrometers). If the boat is so equipped, Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
know that pyrometers rarely fail and read monitored
high. However, the pyrometer might have Suggested action: Idle the engine far less
faulty calibration of the gauge to accom- and work the engine harder.
modate the length of the run of the ther- The source liquid is not lube oil. It is soot-
mocouple wires (contact your supplier for laden, incompletely burned fuel leaving the
instructions on this). The thermocouple cylinder with the exhaust gases. This problem
may be faulty, or it may even be the wrong is known as wet stacking and is a result of light
one for the particular system. The engine loading, very low compression, or a tired die-
may also be lugging, or the boat may have sel engine that has low cylinder pressure and
too much propeller. poorly atomized fuel. Long periods of idling
Note: The hot end of the pyrometer system is an engine will also cause wet stacking, which
the replaceable thermocouple end, with the cali- is why it is bad if you run your diesel in idle
brated length of high-resistance wire between the to charge the batteries while at anchor. You’re
gauge and the thermocouple. The weakest part slowly killing your engine if you do that.
of the system is the replaceable thermocouple. Light loading is cured by putting more
load on the engine. Increasing the load makes
ENGINE EXHAUST TEMPERATURE the engine work hard enough to increase the
READS LOW cylinder pressure, and this helps force the
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient piston rings against the cylinder walls. Wet
Suggested action: Verify the pyrometer stacking while idling an engine is reduced if
readings before replacing the thermocouple. you don’t let it run for long periods below
 DIESEL ENGINES 193

1,000 rpm, but you don’t want to run in high over) by hand a few times to check
idle for long periods while charging batter- them all.
ies! Find another way to charge your batter-
ies that doesn’t require running the engine in It’s important to check any popping noise,
idle or under light loads. because a sticking valve can cause it. A stick-
ing valve can result in a broken connecting
WHAT YOU HEAR rod. A bad exhaust valve face or seat can also
EXHAUST TONE ROUGH AND result in a popping sound. Perform a com-
IRREGULAR pression test to check cylinder pressure.
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored EXHAUST TONE HAS INTERMITTENT
Suggested actions: POPPING SOUND
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
1. Consider a tune-up that includes an Suggested actions:
injector change.
2. Learn what the engine manual says 1. Check fuel injection timing according to
about this problem. the engine manual and adjust as needed.
3. If the problem proves hard to solve, try 2. Check for a valve that hangs open by
checking for air in the fuel. removing the valve cover and doing a
visual inspection as mentioned above.
An engine miss due to a faulty cylinder, a
poorly atomizing injector, or air in the fuel See above symptom. Also, faulty injection
can make the engine sound irregular while timing and exhaust valves that hang open can
the boat is under way. cause an intermittent popping noise.

EXHAUST TONE HAS STEADY POP BACKFIRING OR POPPING AUDIBLY

PING SOUND TRACED TO INTAKE SIDE INTAKE
Urgency: Requires immediate attention VALVES OF ENGINE
Suggested actions: Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
1. Check the valve adjustment according
to the engine manual. 1. Check the intake valve adjustment.
2. If adjustment does not help, remove 2. Visually check the valve stems to be
the valve cover and check visually for sure all valves are closing when needed.
an exhaust valve that is not closing.
This is done by sighting down the row Bad valve seats or valves that are slow to
of valve stems and finding one that is close, or even sticking open, will cause this
low and has a lot of extra valve lash problem. Remove the valve cover and inspect
when the rocker arm comes off it. The the valve lash to make sure no valves are
engine will need to be turned (barred adjusted too tight (insufficient valve lash).
194 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL Electrical wiring and terminals will cor-

INTERFACE rode much more when components are sub-
jected to salt spray or sprayed with strong
WHAT YOU SEE detergents. Replace corroded terminals with
ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT BREAKERS KEEP higher-quality connectors with a shrink-
TRIPPING fit boot incorporated onto the connectors.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Check to see whether corrosion has crept up
Suggested actions: into the wire under the insulation. If it has,
replace the wire.
1. First, be doubly sure the power is
turned off before inspecting an electri- BLACK OIL LEAKS FROM FAN HOUS
cal system. ING AT ENGINE END OF GENERATOR
2. Check that the load is powered by Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient.
the breaker power and make sure it is This could coat the generator windings and
functioning properly and not a dead cause them to overheat.
short. This may require a marine Suggested actions:
electrician.
3. Inspect the wiring between the load 1. Oil leaks in this area are usually due to
and the breaker. a failed rear crankshaft oil seal. Replace
4. Be sure the breaker is the right capacity the seal.
to protect the circuit. 2. If you can’t immediately replace the
5. Consult a marine electrician as needed. seal, monitor the engine oil level and
keep it up to a safe range.
There may be an excessive load, such as a
faulty electric motor, on the breaker. There An engine rear crankshaft oil seal will leak
may be a short circuit, or you may have a oil into this area, and the generator fan will pick
bad circuit breaker or one of the wrong it up and blow it all over the engine room.
capacity.
GENERATOR FREQUENCY METER
CORROSION VISIBLE ON ELECTRICAL READS LOW, HIGH, OR NOT AT ALL
TERMINALS Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Suggested actions:
Suggested actions:
1. For a low reading, raise engine rpm.
1. Disconnect the power from the circuit 2. For a high reading, lower engine rpm.
and detach the terminal. Brush the 3. For no reading, replace the frequency
terminal and post to clean it, then reat- meter (cycle meter).
tach the terminal.
2. Protect all electrical components from For alternating current (AC) electrical sys-
water spray and detergents. tems to work properly, the cycles per second,
 DIESEL ENGINES 195

known as the frequency, or Hertz, must be

maintained at specified rates. In the U.S., the AN EMERGENCY FREQUENCY METER
standard is a rate of 60 cycles per second,
or 60 Hertz, while in the rest of the world David Pflaum of Ketchikan, Alaska, found
50 Hertz is the norm. On a U.S. yacht, the that he could check both the rpm of a gen-
frequency meter, also called the cycle meter, erator and the accuracy of a frequency meter
will normally read 60 Hertz on a generator with a 120-volt clock with a second hand and
with an engine designed to produce power his wristwatch. He plugged the clock into the
at 1,800 rpm. On a set like this, the genera- circuit powered by the generator and coordi-
tor’s rotating field member turns at a 1:1 ratio nated its second hand with the seconds on
his wristwatch. Next, he watched for three
with the engine.
minutes to see if the generator-powered sec-
Generators are equipped with frequency
ond hand ran faster or slower than the second
meters instead of tachometers. In the above hand on his wristwatch. He then adjusted the
example, 30 rpm of engine rotation equals generator engine speed until the second hand
one cycle. Therefore, if the frequency meter of the 120-volt clock matched the one on his
reads 59 cycles and is in good calibration, the wristwatch. When that was accomplished, he
engine is turning at 1,770 rpm, instead of the adjusted the generator frequency meter to
specified 1,800 rpm. A frequency meter can read 60 cycles per second.
be calibrated using a test tachometer. All it
takes is to first adjust the engine governor
to run at exactly 1,800 rpm. When this is slack side of the belt will be flexing
done, adjust the screw on the face of the fre- back and forth two inches or so if the
quency meter to exactly 60 cycles. For more belt is loose.
specific information, call a marine electrician. 4. It’s dangerous to tighten a belt with the
Unfortunately, this subject is not well covered engine running. Turn off the engine
in most repair manuals. and tighten the alternator belt.
5. If the voltage doesn’t increase, check
VOLTMETER READS LOW OR NO the alternator, the batteries, and all
READING connections between the two.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention 6. Check the system voltage by using a
Suggested actions: test gauge such as a Fluke voltmeter to
verify readings; otherwise, check the
1. If the engine is on, do not turn it off electrical connections in the system.
until you find another battery to use
as a backup. The engine may not start The 12-volt system on a generator or
again with low voltage. marine propulsion engine is often regulated
2. With the engine at rest, check the elec- a little lower (13.2 as opposed to 14.2 volts)
trolyte level in the batteries. than on engines used in trucks, cars, and
3. Look for obviously loose alternator other land-based applications. This is the
belts with the engine running. The case because engines on the water tend to
196 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

idle far less. Note: Batteries produce extremely MULTIMETER SHOWS VOLTAGE READ
flammable hydrogen gas, both when charging ING WHEN CONNECTION IS MADE
and discharging! Wear rain gear, rubber gloves, BETWEEN EITHER BATTERY POST
boots, and a complete face shield when working AND THE SURFACE OF BATTERY
near batteries. Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
monitored
VOLTMETER READS HIGH Suggested action: Clean the exterior of the
Urgency: Requires immediate attention batteries with brush, soap, and water.
Suggested actions: This indicates a dirty battery discharging
between the posts. Simply wash it and brush
1. Verify the voltage with a test meter and it before rinsing it off with water
then stop the engine.
WHAT YOU FEEL
2. Consult the engine service manual to
AFTER SHUTTING OFF ENGINE,
learn if the alternator is adjustable;
ALTERNATOR PULLEY CAN BE TURNED
some are. Replace the alternator if it is
INSIDE OF THE BELT BY HAND
not adjustable.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
3. To get home with an overcharging
Suggested action: Tighten the belt. If you
alternator, identify, disconnect, and
can still turn it by hand after tightening, then
tape the alternator field wire as identi-
the pulley must be replaced.
fied by the service manual.
This results from slippage between the
pulley and the belt. To repair, tighten the
The gauge may be faulty or the alterna-
belts. If it takes a huge amount of belt ten-
tor’s regulator may be causing an overcharge.
sion, suspect that the width and contour of
Overcharging will quickly damage any battery.
the belt and/or pulley may be wrong.
VOLTMETER READING WAVERS
PULLING SIDEWAYS ON LARGE STUDS
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
ON STARTER SOLENOID RESULTS IN
monitored
STUD WOBBLING
Suggested actions:
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested action: Replace the solenoid.
1. Stop the engine and check the wiring
Loose starter studs show an electrical
connections to the voltmeter.
component is damaged or failing and needs
2. The regulator may require replace-
to be replaced.
ment. Since many alternators have
internal regulators, the alternator is PULLING SIDEWAYS ON ALTERNATOR
often replaced. OUTPUT STUD RESULTS IN WOBBLING
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Check the connections to the gauge. The Suggested action: Replace the alternator.
load may actually be fluctuating, or the volt- A loose stud on the alternator shows it
age regulator may be faulty. needs to be replaced.
 DIESEL ENGINES 197

BATTERY CABLES WARM TO THE short. Heat harms starters by breaking down
TOUCH the insulation of the windings. Barely percep-
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient tible heat in the starter motor is acceptable.
Suggested action: The engine is cranking
or starting too hard, or the cables are too STARTER MOTOR IS HOT TO THE
small for the application. Find out what can TOUCH
be done to make the engine start more easily Urgency: Requires immediate attention
or increase the cable size. Suggested actions:
High current draw, such as during the start-
ing of a tired engine, can cause the battery cables 1. A hot starter will soon fail. Get a new
to get warm. Heat is generated by repeatedly one and keep it on board.
cranking an engine that is reluctant to start, or 2. Increasing the cable size will help.
by high resistance in the battery cable ends. 3. Check the engine manual for trouble-
shooting hard starting.
BATTERY CABLES HOT TO THE
TOUCH AFTER STARTING ENGINE Heat at the starter motor indicates that
Urgency: Requires immediate attention the insulation has overheated, and this will
Suggested action: See previous symptom. cause a short circuit.
Hot battery cables mean the amp draw is
too high and the engine is taking too much WHAT YOU HEAR
cranking to start. The cables may also be sized NOISE COMING FROM ALTERNATOR
too small, or the starter motor current draw Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
may be too high, indicating a faulty starter Suggested actions:
possibly in the process of failing.
1. Remove the alternator drive belt and
STARTER MOTOR WARM TO THE run the engine momentarily to see if
TOUCH the noise stops. (This may not work
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient on some boats because the alternator
Suggested actions: belt also drives the raw-water pump.)
Note: Water pump noise can sometimes
1. If this happens regularly it will shorten be checked this way too.
the starter’s life. Tune the engine and 2. Replace the alternator if needed.
do anything you can to aid quick
starting. As alternator bearings begin to fail, the
2. While it is expensive, using the largest bearings can begin to make noise. Also, when
battery and starter cables you can will the bearing clearance becomes excessive, the
help the system last longer. drive belt tension will pull the armature off-
center. The spinning armature will begin to
The action of a starter motor, when every- contact the side of the bore in the field wind-
thing is right, is that of a controlled dead ings, making even more noise. Normally,
198 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

however, long before things get this bad, certain before doing this that no AC
someone will notice that the alternator isn’t power source is connected.
working.
The smell of burning rubber indicates a
WHAT YOU SMELL
drive belt is probably slipping and overheat-
STRONG ODOR OF BURNING RUBBER
ing on the pulley. Electrical problems, as
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
mentioned above, are also possible causes.
Suggested actions:
ODOR OF SULFUR SMELLS LIKE ROT
1. Stop the engine and track down the
TEN EGGS IN ENGINE ROOM
smell to make sure there is no fire Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
hazard. monitored
2. Check the belts. Suggested action: Overcharging batteries
3. Turn off all AC and DC electrical smell like this. Check the alternator charging
power and check for hot electrical wir- voltage. It should be no more than 14.2 volts.
ing by quickly running your hands over A smell like sulfur can be overcharging
all of the accessible wiring harnesses batteries.
and cables on the boat. Make absolutely
 CHAPTER 12
TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES:
GASOLINE ENGINES

Refer to the introduction to Chapter 11 for ENGINE PERFORMANCE

an explanation of how Chapters 11 through
WHAT YOU SEE
15, Troubleshooting with the Five Senses,
ENGINE TAKES LONGER THAN NOR
are intended to work. This chapter provides
MAL TO REACH FULL SPEED IN GEAR
a detailed look at gasoline engines.
Compared with diesel engines, fewer spe- Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
cialized and expensive tools are required to monitored
troubleshoot gas engines. For example, compres- Suggested actions:
sion-testing tools for gas engines cost a lot less
because they need only measure half the pres- 1. Check for a plugged air filter or fuel
sure that diesel cylinders develop. Likewise, die- filter.
sel fuel-system pressures can be as much as one 2. Check for line in the propeller.
or two thousand times higher (no, this is not a 3. Check the engine service manual for
misprint!) than those in a gas engine, and there- recommendations.
fore the fuel pressure–testing equipment for a 4. If there were recent repairs, contact
gas engine costs much less than that for a diesel. your marine mechanic.
As with diesel engines, gas engine trouble- 5. Check the bottom of the boat for
shooting frequently focuses on starting prob- fouling.
lems and low power. So the ability to raise
full pressure in the cylinders is important, This problem can also result from insuf-
as is timing of valve openings and closings. ficient throttle travel due to a faulty throttle
Gasoline engines require a timed spark to control linkage.
ignite the fuel in the cylinder, so a spark tester
and a timing light are needed. ENGINE GETS HOT MORE QUICKLY
While easier in some respects, working on THAN USUAL, THEN OVERHEATS
gasoline engines requires greater caution than Urgency: Requires immediate attention
working on diesels, because gasoline fumes Suggested actions:
are terribly explosive in a confined space like
a boat’s interior. If you should create a spark 1. After the engine cools, be sure the
before the blower fan clears the engine space of cooling system is full and the water
fumes, the boat will be gone, and you with it. pump belts, if so equipped, are tight.

199
200 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Look for any possible restriction of 6. If no coolant has gone into the oil,
coolant or raw-water flow, depending watch for external leaks and repair
on the type of cooling system. them if possible.
3. Check the engine service manual 7. Pressure-test the cooling system.
for cooling system troubleshooting 8. After pressure-testing the engine, bar
information. it over two complete revolutions of
the crankshaft. (See the sidebar on
This symptom may be the result of a faulty page 36 for information on barring
thermostat, a water pump not turning at full over an engine.)
speed (belt slipping), or the coolant pump’s 9. Cut open the oil filter and check for
metal impeller slipping on the pump shaft. metal, the sure sign of an impending
engine failure. The presence of metal
ENGINE OVERHEATS SEVERELY, TEM shows that damage has been done. If
PERATURE GAUGE READS OVER there is little or no metal in the filter,
210°F, STEAM IN ENGINE ROOM, AND continue to the next action.
ENGINE RADIATES FAR MORE HEAT 10. If the cooling system holds pressure
THAN NORMAL with no decrease for one hour, start the
Urgency: Requires immediate attention engine and warm it up. If no overheat-
Suggested actions: ing or leaks occur, run the engine at a
Note: There are so many ways to build a cool- low power setting to see if it’s safe to
ing system that it’s important to start with the use.
engine and boat service manuals to learn how After overheating, O-ring seals through-
the boat is equipped. Then follow the directions out the system will harden, allowing coolant
below that apply to the equipment on your boat. to leak into the oil pan. The cylinder head
and even the cylinder block can crack, any
1. Let the engine cool until it can be of which can cause serious damage. Heated
touched with a bare hand, and then fill head bolts seem to elongate during severe
the cooling system. overheating. This could relax the tension on
2. Find and repair any damage causing an the head gasket and thereby cause head gas-
obstruction to the coolant plumbing ket failure.
and hoses.
3. Verify that the coolant pump (and raw- ENGINE TAKES LONGER THAN NOR
water pump, if so equipped) is turning. MAL TO WARM UP
4. If the engine is raw-water cooled, check Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
the raw-water strainer and the ball monitored
valve on the through-hull fitting for Suggested actions:
obstructions.
5. Check the engine oil level to see if cool- 1. Test the thermostat to make sure it
ant is going into the oil. If so, serious opens at the rated temperature.
damage has occurred. 2. Replace the thermostat as needed.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 201

The thermostat may not be closing when ENGINE CRANKS BUT TAKES A VERY
the engine cools down. To test the ther- LONG TIME TO START
mostat, heat water in a saucepan with the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
thermostat totally submerged. If no test ther- Suggested actions:
mometer is available, use a meat thermom-
eter. The thermostat’s opening temperature 1. Check for a plugged fuel filter or faulty
will be stamped on it. When the thermom- anti-drain-back check valve in the fuel
eter approaches the stamped temperature, lift pump.
watch the center section of the thermostat 2. Read the engine service manual trou-
for a slight gap that opens and grows wider as bleshooting section for hard starting.
the temperature increases. If the thermostat 3. Check for a weak starter that doesn’t
opens late (at a higher temperature than its provide full cranking speed.
rating), replace it.
Gasoline engines that take lots of crank-
ENGINE QUICKLY GOES TO FULL ing to start often have a weak check valve in
SPEED IN GEAR, BUT WHEN FULL the fuel transfer pump, which allows the fuel
THROTTLE IS APPLIED THE BOAT IS line just before the carburetor to fill with air
SLOW TO ACCELERATE that can only be purged by cranking. To see
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be if this is the problem, just pour 1/4 cup of
monitored gasoline down the carburetor opening before
Suggested actions: cranking. Then try to start the engine. If the
engine starts immediately, you know the fuel
1. Double-check the pitch and diameter is draining back and the check valve in the
of the propeller to ensure that it is transfer pump is faulty.
right for the boat.
2. If the boat has an extremely shallow ENGINE DIESELS, IS SLOW TO TURN
draft, it may need a cupped-out four- OFF, OR WON’T STOP AT ALL
blade propeller. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:
If the problem happens after a propel-
ler change, suspect that there is not enough 1. Lower engine speed.
wheel pitch or diameter. If the boat has always 2. Retard the ignition.
behaved this way, then it may never have 3. Remove deposits from the combustion
had the correct propeller. Check with your chamber.
local propeller shop for recommendations.
Some high-speed outboard drive propel- Dieseling is a problem with older gasoline
lers have rubber vibration isolators built into engines that idle too fast and have glowing
the hubs. These units can fail and will let the phosphorus deposits that keep igniting what-
drive slip rather than turning the propeller at ever fuel arrives in the cylinder. The engine
full speed. idle speed may be set too high. Engines
202 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

with phosphorus deposits in the combus- shut off. Wait a day, and, immediately before
tion chamber can continue to run with the starting the engine, remove the clamp. If the
ignition turned off because the phosphorus engine starts well, then you have proven that
apparently gets hot and glows, thereby con- the pump check valves are bad. Proceed by
tinuing to light the incoming gasoline. replacing the fuel lift pump.
Take these steps to eliminate the deposits
without removing the cylinder head: With DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR WON’T TURN
the engine at operating temperature, bring WITH ENGINE CRANKSHAFT
the engine speed to approximately 1,500 rpm Urgency: Requires immediate attention
while pouring a steady stream of water down Suggested action: Remove the distributor
the carburetor (or through the throttle body and look down the distributor hole to see if
on fuel-injected engines). Be sure to pour the end of the camshaft is turning. If it is not,
enough water in the opening to almost stall the cam drive (timing) chain is broken.
the engine, but not quite. Apparently the The power to turn the ignition dis-
steaming action helps loosen the deposits. tributor and the oil pump of most gasoline
engines comes through the engine’s camshaft.
ENGINE TAKES A VERY LONG TIME TO Therefore, if the timing chain between the
START crankshaft and the camshaft breaks, the cam-
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient shaft won’t turn and neither will the distribu-
Suggested actions: tor and oil pump. For overhead camshaft
engines that have a cam driven by a cog belt, a
1. For gasoline engines, a lengthy start broken belt can be handled differently. Other
process is usually caused by lack of potential problems with distributors include
fuel, so replace the fuel filter first. carbon tracking (Fig. 12-1). When present,
2. Next, consider installing a new carbon tracking looks like a pencil line drawn
mechanical fuel pump, if so equipped, from one of the posts in the cap to another
because check valves in the pump can post, or down the side of the cap. The current
weaken and let the pump lose its prime then flows along the track to ground, rather
when the engine is turned off and sits than traveling to the spark plug.
unused for six or eight hours.
WORK-AROUND SOLUTION
If the fuel tank is lower than the engine,
gasoline can drain from the engine back to Stripped Cam Belts
the tank through the lift pump check valve The cam belts that power most overhead
in carbureted fuel systems. To test for this, cams in gasoline engines should be replaced
use Vise-Grips to clamp any two flat objects after 1,500 hours of use. If your belt snaps
on both sides of the rubber fuel supply hose before you can replace it and you can’t get a
leading from the tank to the lift pump. This new one, you can use the technique shown in
improvised clamp will close the hose. You Chapter 4 to get home.
must do this immediately after the engine is
 GASOLINE ENGINES 203

Fig. 12-1. A clean distributor cap—if yours has what looks like pencil lines, you may have a
carbon tracking problem.

GASOLINE CLOUDY OR FUEL FILTERS Water in the fuel encourages the growth
PLUG WITH DARK MATERIAL of microorganisms known as algae, which
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient can form a type of gum in the fuel. Fuel stabi-
Suggested actions: lizer additives stop algae and gum from con-
taminating gasoline. Keeping the tanks full
1. Drain the fuel tank and refill. of fuel will help reduce condensation in the
2. Replace all fuel filters. fuel tanks, which results from temperature
204 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

changes and provides an ideal environment

for algae. CLEARING A HYDRAULICALLY LOCKED
GASOLINE ENGINE
VISIBLE WEAR ON EDGES OF DRIVE
BELT Remove all spark plugs and, using the
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be method outlined in the sidebar on page 36,
monitored bar the engine over by hand, turning it two
Suggested action: Replace the belt and any full revolutions of the crankshaft. Caution is
associated idlers. needed, because the fluid really squirts out
Wear on the edge of a belt means that through the spark plug holes!
either the pulleys are misaligned or that If the starter motor were used to turn the
something is rubbing on the side of the belt. engine with fluid on top of a piston, severe dam-
age could occur. This damage could include
When replacing a serpentine belt, be sure
a bent connecting rod or a bent or cracked
to diagram the layout of the belt and where
crankshaft.
pulleys engage the rib side and the flat side
of the belt. See the photo on page 54.
WHAT YOU HEAR
WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO START THE the liquid is removed. Note: A hydraulic lock
ENGINE, IT GOES “CLUNK,” COMES UP sounds like a mechanical lock.
HARD AGAINST SOMETHING, AND
WILL NOT TURN ENGINE HAS DULL KNOCK
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: Suggested action: Oil analysis is a great tool
1. First, determine if the problem is to help spot trouble early. Of course, there is
mechanical or hydraulic by removing always the old standby, cutting open a filter
the spark plugs to see if the engine will for inspection to detect the presence of metal
turn with the cylinders open. If the particles that indicate damage.
engine is still locked after removing the Bad rod bearings are noisy. A very loose
spark plugs, the problem is mechanical. (excess clearance) bearing can even let the
2. To track down the mechanical lock, piston slap the cylinder head at the top of
remove the valve covers and inspect its upward travel. Cut open the oil filter and
the valve mechanism for one valve that check for bearing material in the pleats of
stays open even when the cam is down. the filter media. If metal is present in the fil-
3. Next, consult the engine manual for ter, the oil pan must be removed for a visual
ideas, and consider removing the cylin- inspection of the connecting rods.
der heads to investigate further.
SHARP METALLIC KNOCK, ALL THE
When there is water or fuel on top of a TIME
piston, it stops crankshaft movement until Urgency: Requires immediate attention
 GASOLINE ENGINES 205

Suggested actions: 3. If nothing is apparently wrong, cut

open an oil filter and also do an oil
1. Stop the engine and cut open a filter. If analysis.
there is metal in the filter, avoid start-
ing the engine until repairs are made. This sound may result from loose valve
2. Remove the valve cover and look for adjustments or a faulty valve mechanism. If
a valve stem that stays lower than the you remove the pushrods, if so equipped, roll
rest. This is a sign of a bent valve. them on a flat surface to check for straight-
ness. If they are bent, replace them. Solid
Possible causes of this sound include a pushrods, however, can be hammered straight
faulty rod bearing or a valve hitting a piston. for a temporary fix.

SHARP METALLICSOUNDING “RAP” HIGHPITCHED SQUEAL

WHEN STARTING COLD, DISAPPEARS Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
WHEN WARM Suggested action: Check for alternator or
Urgency: Requires immediate attention water pump belt slippage.
Suggested actions: A slipping alternator, power steering pump,
or water pump belt will cause a squealing
1. Cut open an oil filter with at least noise. For engines with serpentine belts, do
twenty-four hours of running time the following check. With the engine idling,
on it and look for the presence of use a spray bottle with water in it and spray
aluminum. the back of the serpentine belt to see if the
2. Consult the engine service manual and noise goes away. If it does, the belt idle may
listen to similar engines in other boats. be faulty or misaligned. Note: Many gasoline
3. Send the oil for analysis at a lab. engines use two idlers, and one is down low on
the front of the engine where it is easy to miss.
A piston with too much cylinder wall clear-
ance will make this sound when cold. As the pis- SLIGHT BUT DEFINITE CHANGE IN
ton warms up, it expands and the noise ceases. If SOUND OF ENGINE THAT PUZZLES
large amounts of aluminum are detected when YOU
inspecting the oil filter, replace the pistons. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions:
ENGINE HAS METALLIC CLICK
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient 1. Cut open the oil filter to check for
Suggested actions: metal in the oil, the sign of ongoing
engine destruction.
1. Remove the valve cover and inspect the 2. Follow up with an oil analysis.
valve train.
2. Check the engine service manual for If no metal is present in the oil filter
clues. and the oil analysis comes back clean, then
206 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

monitor the oil pressure and water tempera- the drive gear jumps out and meshes with
ture gauges for any changes from the norm. the flywheel teeth. To check this further,
remove the starter motor (with the engine
LOUD RUMBLING NOISE NEAR ENGINE shut off, of course) and inspect both the
STARTER starter drive gear teeth and the flywheel
Urgency: Requires immediate attention teeth for excessive wear. The best sign of
Suggested action: Remove the starter and excess wear is the presence of metal filings
check for drive gear damage. in the hole where the nose of the starter
When the starter drive (also called the resides. If there is a lot of metal present,
Bendix, see Fig. 12-2) stays engaged in the replace the starter.
flywheel, it will cause an ominous rumbling.
The Bendix is the part of the starter that ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT IS RAPIDLY
carries the gear that engages with the fly- ACCELERATING OUT OF CONTROL
wheel teeth. When the starter is engaged, Urgency: Requires immediate attention

Fig. 12-2. The Bendix—hidden here inside the starter motor housing—carries the starter gear that is visible at right.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 207

Suggested actions: cranking the engine to see if the spark

jumps the gap in the test plug.
1. Quickly find a way to pull back the 2. If there is no spark, verify that there is
throttle or turn off the ignition system. 12-volt power to the primary side of
2. Check the throttle linkage to see if it’s the ignition system. The ignition sys-
held in the top speed position. tem has two sides—the primary, which
is battery voltage, and the secondary,
The throttle linkage may be disconnected, which is the much higher voltage that
or the throttle return spring may have broken. makes the spark. On the primary side,
possible problems are a cut wire, a
ENGINE SPUTTERS OR STUMBLES corroded electrical terminal, or even a
WHEN STARTING TO ACCELERATE faulty ignition resistor.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient 3. Check the engine service manual for
Suggested action: Consult the engine ser- ignition troubleshooting instructions.
vice manual to learn how to repair the fuel 4. To check fuel delivery to a carbureted
system’s acceleration circuit. or throttle body fuel-injected engine,
Every carburetor or fuel injection system is remove the air filter and, viewing
designed to supply extra fuel during accelera- from slightly above and to the side of
tion. If this function of the system is not work- the carburetor, check to see if there
ing, the engine will stumble on acceleration. is incoming fuel when the engine is
cranked. Caution: When checking for
WHEN YOU PLACE AN ENGINE IN the presence of fuel, beware of back-
GEAR, IT SOUNDS AS IF IT LUGS firing! Wear a face shield and glasses
BADLY AND THEN DIES WITHOUT when doing a visual check for gasoline,
TURNING THE PROPELLER SHAFT and remember to look down the car-
Urgency: Requires immediate attention buretor or throttle body from the side
Suggested action: Check to see if there is rather than from directly above the
something fouled in the propeller. unit.
This may be a line in the wheel or broken 5. Another possibility is severe flood-
gear teeth in the propulsion drivetrain. ing. Remove a spark plug to see if it is
drenched with fuel.
ENGINE SEEMS TO CRANK WELL 6. If the engine is flooded, remove all
CRANKSHAFT IS SPINNING, BUT spark plugs for one hour to let the
THERE IS NO SOUND OF IT TRYING excess fuel dissipate.
TO START
Urgency: Requires immediate attention A weak ignition spark, a restriction of the
Suggested actions: fuel supply, or severe flooding with fuel are
likely causes. Also, the secondary side of the
1. Verify that there is a spark by plugging ignition system may have a failed ignition
in a spare spark plug to a plug wire and coil or a failed coil wire to the center of the
208 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

distributor cap. It may also be a faulty rotor ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT ALMOST
in the distributor cap, if so equipped, or a STARTS, BUT THE STARTER’S DRIVE
faulty distributor cap. KICKS OUT FIRST
Remove the air filter and look down the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
carburetor or throttle body while someone Suggested actions:
cranks the engine. No fuel in this area means
there is a fuel supply problem, and that it’s 1. Use a timing light as directed by the
time to change the fuel filter or the fuel pump, engine repair manual to verify that the
or even put some fuel in the tank. ignition timing is correct.
2. Older engines with a burned-out
ENGINE BACKFIRES ignition resistor will run as long as
Urgency: Requires immediate attention the starter motor is cranking; how-
Suggested action: Check ignition timing, ever, when you let off on the key,
the distributor cap, and rotor. the engine stops. Replace the starter
A more severe cause could be the failure motor.
of the timing belt or the chain that turns the
distributor. Suspect the starter drive mechanism in
the starter. If possible, try installing another
starter motor assembly.

BACKFIRING ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT’S RUNNING

ROUGH AT LOW IDLE
A backfire is defined as unexpected popping Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
or even an explosion of fuel and air, usually Suggested actions:
coming from the engine intake manifold. In
other words, the air and gasoline mixture is 1. Check spark plug wires for insulation
traveling backward and coming back out of damage.
the intake manifold. 2. Check spark plugs and replace as
When a loud explosion comes from the needed.
exhaust pipe it would seem that it should 3. Check the distributor cap.
be called a front fire, but it isn’t. Exhaust
explosions are still called a backfire. It is Rough running could be spark related, due
true that the gases are flowing in the right to faulty spark plug wire insulation or even a
direction. However, the air and fuel are
faulty distributor cap or rotor. This could also
making a severe increase in pressure in the
be a faulty cylinder, due to damage of valves
wrong place (in the exhaust system, rather
than in the cylinder). A mechanic would
or even a hole in a piston crown.
describe these two types of backfiring as
“backfiring from the intake” or “backfiring ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED
from the exhaust.” Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested action: See previous symptom.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 209

ENGINE MAKES “PINGING” SOUND 2. Remove the starter to see if the drive
Urgency: Requires immediate attention gears are damaged by staying engaged
Suggested actions: after the engine starts.
3. Check for one or more cylinders mis-
1. Use premium-grade gasoline. firing or not firing at all.
2. Set the ignition timing to specifications. 4. Check for a loose front crankshaft
damper or pulley.
Pinging is caused by the premature deto- 5. Check engine mounts to make sure
nation of the air-fuel mixture in gasoline they are intact and tight.
engines. It happens before the piston travels 6. Check the flywheel to ensure that it is
to the top of the cylinder on the compres- installed tight to the crankshaft.
sion stroke when the spark timing is set 7. Confirm that the transmission drive
too early. This can even happen from the adapter is attached properly to the
heat of compression, especially when high- flywheel and that the elastomeric
compression engines are fueled with low- (rubber-like material) drive member is
octane gasoline. intact and properly attached.
8. Confirm that the flywheel housing is
ENGINE VIBRATES AT LOW RPM centered on the flywheel and is not
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient egg-shaped, off-center, or otherwise
Suggested actions: misaligned. (See Figure 11-6.)

1. First cut open the oil filter and look for If the starter stays engaged, it will produce
metal particles that indicate damage. If a noisy rumble because the gear ratio between
there is no metal in the filter, the engine the starter and the flywheel is greater than
can be safely run for additional checking. 10:1. For example, when the starter stays
engaged, it will spin at least 10,000 rpm if the
engine is running at 1,000 rpm. Check the
starter drive visually by removing the starter
GASOLINE ENGINE VIBRATIONS and looking for shiny shards of metal or dam-
age to gear and flywheel teeth. If the engine
All gasoline engines (except four-cylinder) are
has had recent repairs or a rebuild, confirm
normally vibration free, though some will have
a small amount of vibration at a certain speed. that the correct pistons, rods, and wrist pins
It is important to pay attention to your engine’s were used.
usual pattern of vibration, if it has one. As you
get to know a new engine, make a mental note ENGINE VIBRATES AT MEDIUM RPM,
of how it sounds through the full range of throt- WITH LOUD RUMBLING
tle settings. A change in any engine’s vibration Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
pattern is something to check out immediately, Suggested action: See previous symptom.
because it could be the first sign of a problem. As in the previous symptom, a starter that
stays engaged in the flywheel will damage
210 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

both the starter and the ring gear. The fly- and that the elastomeric (rubber-like) drive
wheel ring gear will fail in time because of member is intact and properly attached.
where the engine tends to come to rest when
turned off. To see whether the starter is ENGINE VIBRATES AT HIGH RPM
remaining engaged in the flywheel after the Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
engine starts, remove the starter and look for Suggested action: See previous two symptoms.
bright (recent) wear on the flywheel teeth. The
starter drive gear will also show extra wear INBOARD/OUTBOARD IO APPLICA
and the presence of metal filings throughout TIONS: ENGINE VIBRATION IS NO
the starter drive cavity, which is the hole the TICEABLE AND IS WORST AT THE
starter plugs into. REAR OF ENGINE
Also check for one or more cylinders mis- Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
firing or not firing at all. Check for a loose Suggested action: Check alignment of the
front crankshaft damper or pulley. Check engine to the outdrive according to the ser-
engine mounts to make sure they are intact vice manual.
and tight. If the engine was recently repaired Faulty engine mounting can allow move-
or rebuilt, confirm that the correct pistons, ment and vibration when there are loose
rods, and wrist pins were used. Confirm that mounting bolts. A soft foot differs from a
the flywheel is installed tight to the crank- soft (flexible) engine mount. Many inboard
shaft. Ensure that the transmission drive gas engines have soft mounts as shown in
adapter is attached properly to the flywheel Figure 12-3. A soft foot is when one corner

Lower Adjusting
Nut

Adjustable
Motor Mount
Mount
Foot

Fig. 12-3. Most small diesels (such as those on pleasure boats) and gasoline engines can be installed with
adjustable mounts, as shown here. If, when you back off the top nut on both sides, one side or the
other springs up, you have a soft foot and will have to adjust the mount to meet it.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 211

of the engine and transmission mounting Suggested actions:

system is on a different plane than the other
mounting feet. When all the mounting bolts are 1. Verify that the proper oil is being used.
tightened in a soft foot situation, it can bend the 2. Change both oil and filter and shorten
exterior of the engine, especially large engines the oil change interval.
mounted on strong steel rails in steel boats. 3. Monitor the oil color, and send a
To check for a soft foot, loosen both front sample to an oil lab to troubleshoot
mounting bolts to see if the shim pack on either this problem.
front mount can be easily slid out of place. If the
shim pack is loose, you have found a soft foot Thick, black oil in a gasoline engine shows
that must be shimmed up so that it carries the that the oil change interval is too long. Over
same amount of weight as the other front foot. time, badly worn piston rings and scored cyl-
Inboard/outboard (IO) applications require inder walls causing gaps between rings and
the engine to be mounted and aligned accord- cylinder walls will also contribute to black oil.
ing to the manufacturer’s directions. These Another cause of poor ring seating is the inges-
instructions usually come in an installation tion of abrasive dust due to a faulty air filter or
manual, rather than in the service manual. even due to dust entering the engine during
Many IO engine systems are a package that repairs. Poor break-in of gasoline engines, which
consists of an engine, the transom support for results in excessive blowby, is almost unheard of.
the rear of the engine, and the outdrive. Often
the engine and outdrive are manufactured by OIL VERY THIN AND DRIPS RAPIDLY
different companies and married together in a FROM DIPSTICK
package. Factory technical support is terrible Urgency: Requires immediate attention
for many of these packages after the sale. Suggested actions:
WHAT YOU SMELL
1. Change the oil and filter.
GASOLINE ODOR
2. Investigate the possibility of a choke
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
that is stuck closed on a carbureted
Suggested action: Use extreme caution and
engine.
check for a visible fuel leak on the pressure side
of the engine fuel system. Remember, if gaso- Oil in this condition means that there is
line smells strongly it is potentially explosive! raw gasoline going past the rings. This can be
Sources of gasoline leaks include hoses, fit- due to a choke set too rich on a carbureted
tings, flooding of the engine intake and cylin- engine, or it can also be caused by cranking the
ders with gasoline, or an overfilled fuel tank. engine with the throttle open when attempt-
OIL AND FUEL SYSTEMS ing to start it.

WHAT YOU SEE ENGINE OIL REMAINS HONEYCOLORED

ENGINE OIL BLACK AND VERY THICK EVEN WITH MANY HOURS ON IT
VISCOUS Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient monitored
212 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Suggested action: This is probably normal.

FLOODING THE ENGINE WITH GASOLINE However, verify the correct weight and grade
of the engine oil.
The word “flooding” means delivering far too much For gasoline engines, this is a normal con-
raw (wet) fuel to the intake manifold and the cyl- dition due to clean engine oil. Also, synthetic
inders. Fuel-injected gasoline engines are easy to oil stays clean much longer than petroleum-
flood. Generally, manufacturers recommend not based oil because it resists breaking down
opening the throttle at all before starting one. from engine heat.
Once a fuel-injected gasoline engine is There are two kinds of oil filters: the full-
flooded, the best thing to do is turn off the boat’s flow filter that all engines come with from the
battery switches to avoid any possibility of spark-
factory, and the optional partial-flow filter (also
ing, and then remove the air filter. Next, select
called a bypass filter). The full-flow unit filters
a clean and slender object, like a long screw or
screwdriver, that is too large to fall through the
all oil going to the engine from the oil pump
throttle plates. Gently open the throttle, and slide as long as it doesn’t exceed its capacity to hold
the screwdriver tip past the throttle plates to hold solids. After the filter pleats clog with solids,
them open. This will allow pooled-up gasoline in or when the filter pores become restricted, the
the intake manifold to evaporate. filter capacity is reached and a small spring-
Pooled gasoline prevents the engine from loaded bypass (pressure relief ) valve opens as a
starting. It typically can be found in the intake stopgap measure to lubricate the engine. When
manifold and in the engine cylinders. When an this happens, the filter is in bypass mode and
engine comes to rest after the ignition is turned none of the engine oil is filtered. Good main-
off, some of the intake valves and some of the tenance will prevent this problem.
exhaust valves remain open until the engine is The partial-flow filter is supplied by after-
cranked again. Blocking the throttle plate open market companies as an add-on. This unit
and waiting for one-half hour in warm weather, supplements the action of the full-flow filter
or an hour in cooler weather, will allow most of by continuously taking a small amount of pres-
the excess gasoline to evaporate. surized oil from the engine’s oil pump flow and
If you try this procedure and the engine still
super-cleaning it. The partial-flow filter will clean
won’t start, remove the air filter again and block
up a dirty engine in a few days of operation.
the throttle plate open. This time, go one step
further and remove all the spark plugs and wait
for two hours. When you’re ready to try starting OIL LEAKING FROM ENGINE
the engine, withdraw the screwdriver from the Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
throttle plate and reinstall the air filter. Suggested actions:
Note: Before trying to start the engine after
the waiting period, be sure to run the vessel’s 1. Keep the engine oil level full until
ventilation fan until the engine compartment repairs can be made.
is clear of all gasoline fumes. To be on the safe 2. Find the source of the leak by narrow-
side, continue running the fan for five minutes ing it down to the left or right side,
after you can no longer smell fumes. front or rear, or top or bottom of the
engine.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 213

3. After finding the source of the leak, 2. If it’s the front crankshaft seal, then
further classify it as either a faulty the vibration damper must be removed
gasket or fitting or a crack. Then check and the seal replaced according to
the engine manual for instructions. engine service manual directions.
3. If it’s the rear seal, the engine will need to
To zero in on the source of an engine oil be removed and pulled forward to allow
leak, check the engine oil level. If it is high, the replacement of the seal. Check the engine
leak may be coming from a front or rear oil seal. manual to learn the best way to do this.
Find out if it is the front or rear seal that is leak- 4. If the engine must be used before the
ing, and if the leak appears to be high or low on seal is replaced, one strategy is to main-
the engine. It may be on the left or right side of tain the oil level right at the low-level
the engine. The leak may also not even be a leak, mark on the dipstick. This will some-
but rather the result of someone having spilled times slow the rate of oil leakage.
oil when it was last added to the engine.
Engines with a banjo fitting to the dipstick The bottom of the bell housing can leak oil.
tube can also leak (Fig. 12-4). The source of this type of leak is the engine’s
rear crankshaft oil seal. If crankcase pressure
OIL LEAKING FROM BOTTOM OF BELL gets too high due to a plugged or restricted
HOUSING OR FROM FRONT CRANK engine crankcase vent, the front and/or rear
SHAFT SEAL crankshaft seals may fail. Use a slide hammer
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient to remove the old seal. See page 95 for more
Suggested actions: details on leaky crankshaft seals.
Gasoline engines are also prone to leaks
1. Keep the oil level full until the leak is from the timing chain cover in the front of
repaired. the engine. The fix for this involves remov-
ing the front crankshaft pulley and vibration
damper first and then the engine front timing
gear cover before replacing the gasket.

OIL LEAK AT EITHER SIDE, NEAR

Oil
Pan
FRONT OF ENGINE
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions:
Banjo
Fitting 1. Tighten the valve cover bolts to see if
this repairs the leak.
2. If not, replace the valve cover gaskets.

Fig. 12-4. One possible source of an oil leak is the banjo Faulty valve cover gaskets will cause oil
fitting at the bottom of the dipstick tube. to leak down either side or down both sides
214 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

of an engine. Leaks low on either side of the metal it is. For example, brass or copper will
engine will come from an oil pan gasket. be golden or yellow, which may be material
Note: When resealing a valve cover gasket, from a crankshaft thrust bearing. The pres-
never use silicone sealer on both sides because it ence of aluminum (pistons on most engines)
acts like a lubricant and will let the gasket slip will be dull white, chromium (piston rings)
out of place when the cover bolts are tightened. will be bright and shiny, and cast iron or
Instead, glue one side of the valve cover gasket steel will be harder to locate visually. Passing
to the cover with contact cement. Do this while a clean magnet over the media paper should
keeping the boltholes in the gasket lined up with attract cast-iron or steel particles, making
the boltholes in the cover, and let it dry. Then, them easier to identify.
just before assembly, put a light coat of silicone
sealer on the other side (surface that will seal CREAMCOLORED SLUDGE SEEN
against the cylinder head). When clamped, the INSIDE ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
gasket will stay in place. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions:
METALLIC PARTICLES GLITTER VIS
IBLE IN ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION 1. Change oil and filter and start moni-
OIL OR IN FILTER MEDIA PAPER toring the cooling system for coolant
Urgency: Requires immediate attention loss.
Suggested actions: 2. If coolant seems to be leaking into the
oil, consult your engine manual and
1. Listen for new and worrisome noise also see Chapter 16.
that accompanies the metal particles.
2. Remove the valve cover and check for When water or coolant leaks into the
valve train damage as it is described engine crankcase, it goes to the bottom of the
in the engine manual troubleshooting oil pan because it is heavier than the engine’s
section. lube oil. It will stay on the bottom until the
3. Consult a marine mechanic if the engine is started. When the engine is run-
source of the damage isn’t apparent. ning, the water is pulled from the bottom of
the pan into the engine oil pump. From there
Where there is glitter, there is mechani- it is sent throughout the lubricating system.
cal damage. Changing the oil and filter and As the engine warms up, the oil and the cool-
cutting open a second filter after repairs are ant emulsify into a foamy, oily consistency
made will tell if a situation is under control. that cannot properly lubricate the engine.
In the case of an outboard or outdrive that The source of coolant entering the crank-
has no filter, simply draining the oil and com- case may be an oil cooler, if so equipped,
paring new and used oil will visually reveal or a head gasket. The test for either one is
the presence of metal. the pressurization of the cooling system. If
When filters are cut open and there is the system will not hold 20 psi, there is a
metal present, try to determine what type of leak somewhere. Check the oil cooler, if so
 GASOLINE ENGINES 215

equipped. If the oil cooler is good, then it is If no damage is found, then each head
time to remove the oil pan if there is room, must be pressure-tested. If no pressure tester
and if not, to remove the cylinder heads to is available, with the engine cold, remove the
inspect the head gaskets for signs of obvious pressure system cap from the reservoir and
damage (bending) or discoloration. top off the tank with fresh water (salt water
It’s best to learn about head gasket fail- will damage the engine). Now, start the engine
ures before you need the information. Visit a and watch for bubbles going up through
repair shop and ask to see faulty head gaskets. the reservoir. Constant bubbles coming up
The second best scenario is to buy a new set through the reservoir indicate combustion
of head gaskets for your engine and examine gases leaking into the cooling system through
them with an experienced mechanic. a cracked head or a faulty head gasket. Note:
Water in the oil often occurs after over- A faulty oil cooler will not make bubbles in the
heating from plugged coolant passages reservoir, but it will transfer oil into the cooling
(Fig. 12-5). system.

Fig. 12-5. This plugged coolant passage could have been avoided by
regular changing of the coolant. (Courtesy MER Equipment,
Seattle, Washington)
216 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Engine oil can also enter a cooling system pour it into the cooling system to break down
through the oil cooler when an internal leak the oil and thereby clean the system. If this
develops in the tubes inside the unit. To test is done, the system will need to be flushed
the oil cooler, remove both oil lines and plug with fresh water several times, because many
one of them. Pressurize the cooler through dishwasher detergents contain salt. Contact
the other passage to 40 psi to verify that it is the engine manufacturer or your marine
sound. If it will not hold pressure, replace it. mechanic for instructions.
Boatowners have been known to mix
no-suds dishwasher detergent with water and ENGINE OIL LEVEL ON DIPSTICK
RISES SLOWLY OVER TIME, AND OIL
BECOMES MILKY
REPAIRING AN ENGINE THAT SANK Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
WHILE RUNNING Suggested actions:
When a running marine engine is inverted or
1. Change the oil and filter and moni-
sunk in a boating accident, water soon enters
tor the coolant level to see if coolant is
the intake manifold. When the water enters the
next cylinder of the firing order that is on the
slowly leaking into the crankcase.
intake stroke, the engine takes a deep “breath” 2. If the engine is using coolant, perform
of water. However, when the intake valve on that a pressure test as covered in Chapter 16
cylinder closes and the flywheel tries to carry the or consult the engine repair manual.
crankshaft motion through, the piston comes up
against the water in the cylinder because the Water (coolant) entering the oil and
exhaust valve is closed. Water is incompress- emulsifying with the oil will cause this milky
ible, forcing the engine to stop very suddenly. appearance.
The sudden stop will usually bend only one
connecting rod: the rod on the cylinder that first WATER SQUIRTS OUT ENGINE
took in water. To restore the engine, remove the cyl- DIPSTICK HOLE WHEN DIPSTICK IS
inder head and the oil pan and measure the full REMOVED
extent of the height of each piston in the cylinder Urgency: Requires immediate attention
with a dial indicator. One of the pistons will Suggested actions:
be a little lower in its cylinder than the rest.
Change the rod, piston, and rings on the cylin-
1. Change oil and filter.
der with the piston not at its full height.
2. See if the cooling system is low on
If the engine is completely dismantled,
have a machine shop check the crankshaft for
coolant, and if so, pressure-test the
cracks. If, however, the engine must be used cooling system to pinpoint the leak.
as is for a while, over time any cracks may 3. If the coolant level is OK, the water
increase in length. The check for measuring must have come from an external source.
maximum piston height is the same for gaso-
line and diesel engines. Tasting the water will prove if the water is
fresh, salt, or antifreeze coolant.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 217

This will help track down the source of the into the engine room! However, when an
water. After the taste test, proceed according engine is damaged by overheating, is near-
to the configuration of your vessel’s cooling ing rebuild time, or is failing, it will begin to
system. Consult Chapters 3 and 10 for more produce large amounts of crankcase gases.
cooling-system information. This is a sign that the engine cylinders are
weak. Note: A plugged crankcase vent will
OILY VAPOR IN LARGE AMOUNTS cause these same symptoms.
BLOWS OUT ENGINE CRANKCASE
VENT OR DIPSTICK TUBE ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHANGES ERRATI
Urgency: Requires immediate attention CALLY, SOMETIMES READING HIGH,
Suggested actions: SOMETIMES LOW
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
1. Disconnect the crankcase vent at the Suggested actions:
engine to see if this reduces the pres-
sure in the crankcase. 1. Change the oil and filter, taking care to
2. If not, the engine has a blowby prob- use the amount of oil specified by the
lem, which means at least one of the manufacturer.
pistons is severely scuffed or has a hole 2. If the oil level continues to fluctuate
in it. rapidly, check the bottom of the exter-
3. Cutting open the oil filter will reveal nal oil dipstick tube, if so equipped, for
metal in the filter if a piston is blockage.
damaged to the point of requiring
replacement. Erratic changes in oil level can easily hap-
4. Consult the service manual to learn the pen when an engine has an external dipstick
engine manufacturer’s suggestions for tube that goes to the bottom of the oil pan
repairing the internal engine damage as shown in Figure 12-6. Even new engines
that is causing the blowby. with few hours on them can have a surpris-
ing amount of debris in the oil pan during the
After engines seize up hard from over- break-in period. While the break-in period
heating, they will sometimes start again, (also called run-in) for a new diesel engine
but will have excessive blowby of combus- can be as much as 500 hours of operation,
tion gases past the rings because the pistons, gasoline engines are considered run-in at 100
rings, and cylinder walls have been severely hours.
damaged. Excess combustion gases that leak The fix for erratic dipstick readings in a
past the rings into the crankcase will build case like this is to remove the banjo fitting
pressure in the crankcase that will eventu- bolt and clean it. If the debris appears to be a
ally overwhelm the crankshaft seals. Engine metallic chip, then the decision must be made
crankcase vents are designed to carry the whether or not to keep running the engine or
normal amount of these gases out of the to tear it down and find the source of the con-
engine, and, in many boats, they are vented tamination that plugged the tube.
218 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

cooler must be pressure-tested by capping off

one of the oil openings and putting 20 psi to
Debris Covering the Banjo
Fitting Hole to the Dipstick the other opening. If the oil cooler will not
Tube Causes Erratic Oil hold pressure, then it must be replaced.
Level Readings
WHAT YOU TASTE
WATER IS FOUND IN OIL PAN AND
HAS NO TASTE
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:

1. This is fresh water or rainwater.

Change the oil and filter and watch for
Fig. 12-6. Erratic dipstick readings can be caused by debris
clogging the banjo fitting hole. the source.
2. Water may have entered the engine
through the horizontal exhaust system,
ENGINE OIL LEVEL SUDDENLY VERY
if so equipped.
LOW
3. Check for evidence of engine room
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
swamping.
Suggested actions:
Another possible cause may be specific to
1. Change the oil and filter so there is a boats operating in fresh water. The source of
known quantity of oil in the engine the water might be from waves getting past
and then proceed to troubleshoot by the flap at the exhaust pipe on the transom
checking the bilge for oil floating on and traveling into the engine via open exhaust
the bilge water. valves.
2. If there is oil leaking from the engine,
determine the source of the leak and WATER IN ENGINE OIL PAN TASTES
proceed as needed. SWEET
3. If no leak is found, the engine may be Urgency: Requires immediate attention
burning a lot of oil or leaking oil into Suggested actions:
the cooling system.
1. This indicates antifreeze coolant is
Cracks in the oil pan, or a pan that has leaking into the oil pan. Pressure-test
rusted through, will quickly dump the lube the cooling system to find the leak.
oil. Oil can also quickly transfer into the cool- 2. Check the engine oil cooler that inter-
ing system through a split (or leaking) engine faces with engine coolant.
oil cooler. When the oil level quickly drops,
it is time to check the cooling system for the When the engine is off, the pressure on the
presence of oil in the coolant reservoir. If coolant side of the oil cooler is often higher,
there is also oil in the coolant, then the oil and coolant may travel into the oil. When the
 GASOLINE ENGINES 219

engine is running, pressure is greater on the seizure and the need for extensive
oil side of the system, and oil will travel into repairs. If the pistons have seized,
the coolant. aluminum will be found in the oil
filter.
WATER IN ENGINE OIL PAN TASTES
SALTY Severe overheating of an engine or
Urgency: Requires immediate attention transmission causes the paint to change
Suggested action: Find out where bilge color. At a temperature of just over 270°F,
water is getting into the engine. engine paint begins to darken. The upper
The engine may have been swamped, or half of the engine, including the cylin-
bilge water may have gotten high enough to der heads, will get hotter than any other
enter the engine through the crankshaft rear external area of the engine. Keeping track
main seal. of engine paint color during disassembly is
COOLING SYSTEM a great troubleshooting tool. This will help
with decisions about testing or replace-
WHAT YOU SEE ment of components. See Chapter 10 for
ENGINE PAINT TURNS DARKER THAN more information on what to look for when
ORIGINAL COLOR rebuilding an engine.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Contamination of the cooling system
Suggested actions: degrades coolant flow and results in severe
overheating.
1. Let engine cool for one hour. Extreme overheating most often results
2. Check engine oil and coolant levels. in engine seizure because the aluminum pis-
3. Refill cooling system if low. tons in gasoline engines expand greatly and
4. If the oil level is higher than normal then act as brakes against the cylinder walls.
or higher than before the overheat- This braking action scuffs the cylinder wall
ing incident, loosen the oil drain plug and the piston. It also welds aluminum to the
in the oil pan and note what leaks cylinder wall. The engine can often be started
out first. If coolant or water leaks after it cools, but the engine will burn oil until
out before oil, there is coolant in the it is repaired.
oil and the engine has been severely When there is a change in paint color,
damaged. pressure-test the engine cooling system to
5. If the engine died (stalled or quit 20 psi. See Chapter 16 for more detailed
running) when hot, remove the oil fil- information. It is also important to test indi-
ter and use a filter cutter or hacksaw vidual engine components, like the jacketed
to cut it open on the threaded end. marine exhaust manifold. If the individual
Remove a piece of the filter media pressure-tested components won’t hold pres-
paper and inspect it for the presence sure, then replacement is required. See
of metal. Shards or flecks of metal in Chapter 3 and Figure 3-15 for more details
the oil filter usually indicate piston on severe overheating.
220 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

CLEAR WATER LEAKING FROM THE 4. Consult the service manual for instruc-
ENGINE tions on the procedure for repairing
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient the leak.
Suggested actions:
Antifreeze coolant is often red, blue, green,
1. Keep the coolant level full while find- orange, or yellow, so a leak of one of these
ing the source of the leak. colors indicates a coolant leak. Use the same
2. Bring the engine up to temperature. method mentioned in the previous symptom
Because cooling systems are pressur- to pinpoint the leak by narrowing down its
ized and the pressure increases as the location.
engine warms, leaks will be worse
(more apparent) when the engine is hot. WIPING A FINGER INSIDE ENGINE
3. When the leak is found, determine if COOLING SYSTEM FILLER NECK
the problem is a gasket, O-ring seal, REVEALS AN OILY SCUM UNDER
faulty hose, loose hose clamp, a faulty COOLANT PRESSURE CAP
fitting, or a crack. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions:

A leak like this usually comes from the 1. Pressure-test the engine oil cooler, if so
cooling system itself or simply from the cool- equipped. Replace if needed.
ing system overflow, but it might also indicate 2. Drain the cooling system.
a lack of antifreeze protection in the cooling 3. Obtain a no-suds detergent recom-
system. If the antifreeze is sufficient, the leak- mended by the manufacturer and mix
ing fluid should show the antifreeze color, as with hot water. Pour this mixture into
in the next symptom. the cooling system and operate the
engine until the engine comes up to
COLORED WATER COOLANT MIX operating temperature.
TURE LEAKING FROM ENGINE 4. Drain the cooling system again and
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient refill with the recommended mixture
Suggested actions: of antifreeze and water.

1. Shut off the engine and refill coolant if When oil enters the engine cooling system,
the level is low. it emulsifies with the coolant and reduces the
2. Pressurize the cooling system by heat transfer of the coolant. No matter what
replacing the pressure cap and warm- size the engine, oil in the cooling system is a
ing up the engine to normal operating valuable clue that some system will soon run
temperature. out of vital lubricating oil, and bearing dam-
3. When the engine is warm, turn it off age will soon occur (Fig. 12-7).
and look for the leak with a good light The source of the oily scum is often
source. either the engine or the transmission
 GASOLINE ENGINES 221

Fig. 12-7. Main bearings come in all sizes. The bearing in the hand is from a modern engine. The
bearing is the background is from an ancient 100 hp diesel.

oil cooler. Black oily film in the coolant 2. If nothing is found, check the water
indicates that it is the engine oil cooler, pump drive belt for adequate tightness.
while lighter-colored oil (the same color as 3. At this point, after no apparent cause
the transmission oil) indicates that it is the is found, it is time to suspect a faulty
transmission cooler. A pressure test of head gasket.
the offending oil cooler is the next step in 4. Pressure-test the cooling system. If it
solving the problem. will not hold pressure, the head gas-
ket is suspect and must be replaced
WATER OVERFLOWING FROM ENGINE according to the engine manufacturer’s
COOLING SYSTEM EXPANSION TANK directions.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: After an expansion tank is overfilled, it
will overflow as the engine and coolant get
1. Stop the engine and check for any up to temperature. However, if an engine has
problem that is restricting cool- overheated and combustion gases are enter-
ant flow, such as a pinched coolant ing the cooling system by way of a bad head
hose or dented keel cooler, if so gasket, this too can make the expansion tank
equipped. overflow.
222 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

COOLANT SLOWLY VANISHES WHEN 5. Examine all fittings or hoses between

ENGINE IS IDLING the engine and the expansion tank.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions: Coolant might be leaking from the heat
exchanger into water surrounding the hull.
1. Check all hose clamps on the cooling The heat exchanger can also leak into the bilge
system for adequate tightness. after it is damaged by vibration (Fig. 12-8).
2. Check the bilge for evidence of
antifreeze. COOLANT SLOWLY DISAPPEARS, BUT
3. Follow up by pressure-testing the cool- ONLY WHEN ENGINE RUNS
ing system. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
4. Check for leaking fittings or hoses Suggested action: Remove the exhaust
between the engine and the heat manifold and check for a slightly rusted
exchanger. exhaust port in the cylinder head (Fig. 12-9).

Severe Leak Caused

By Vibration Against
Framework

Fig. 12-8. A coolant leak into the bilge can be caused by excessive vibration of the heat exchanger. Here a mechanic
has pulled the heat exchanger away from its point of contact with the engine bed. (Courtesy MER
Equipment, Seattle, Washington)
 GASOLINE ENGINES 223

Fig. 12-9. The exhaust ports shown in this section of exhaust manifold were badly rusted. Rainwater had invaded the cylinders
through a vertical stack.

The engine can is probably “burning” cool- the hose clamps. It’s important to always have
ant (sending it out the exhaust pipe as steam), spares on the boat.
and a corroded exhaust port is a likely result. Bulged or blistered hoses can result
You might have a cracked cylinder or faulty from chemicals attacking the rubber com-
head gasket, or coolant might be entering a pound on the outside of the hose. It
cylinder or the exhaust stream by way of a might be that the rubber compound isn’t
crack in a jacketed exhaust manifold. compatible with cleaning agents that are
used to clean the engine room. According
COOLANT HOSES BULGED OR to the Gates Rubber Company, many hose
BLISTERED failures that occur at or near the end of a
Urgency: Requires immediate attention hose are due to electrical activity. This hap-
Suggested action: Replace the hoses as pens especially if the coolant is slightly
soon as possible. Take care not to overtighten acidic and then becomes the electrolyte
224 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

in a galvanic cell, a sort of battery at the Suggested action: If the belts feel rough,
hose end. replace the pump.
Faulty water pump bearings will cause
WHEN REPLACING SEALS, YOU the water pump (Fig. 12-11) to get noisy.
NOTICE THE SURFACE OF ORING Excessive belt tension first reduces the life of
SEALS ARE ROUGH the water pump bearings and then the seal.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
WHAT YOU FEEL
Suggested action: Replace the O-ring seals.
WATER PUMP OR ALTERNATOR
Do not use any O-ring (Fig. 12-10) seal
PULLEYS ARE HOT, IMMEDIATELY
that isn’t pliable or doesn’t have a smooth
AFTER THE ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN
surface.
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
WHAT YOU HEAR monitored
NOISE COMING FROM WATER COOL Suggested action: Increase belt tension.
ANT PUMP A slipping belt will cause a warm or even
Urgency: Requires immediate attention hot pulley. Tighten the belts and see if the

Fig. 12-10. Inspect O-ring seals carefully—they should be pliable and have smooth surfaces.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 225

Pump Pulley Bolts

To Drive Hub

Coolant
Pump
Inlet Port
The Pump’s “Weep Hole”
Only Leaks If The Pump
Seal Fails

Dual Pump Outlet Ports

Carry Coolant To The
Engine Cylinder Block

Fig. 12-11. A belt-driven coolant pump for a gasoline inboard engine, shown with the pulley removed from the shaft at top.
When a pump like this fails, water drips from the weep hole.

pulley still gets hot. If it does, it is because the COVER OF RAWWATER PUMP HOT
belts are worn, the V-groove in the pulley is Urgency: Requires immediate attention
worn beyond specifications, or both causes Suggested actions:
may be in play. When changing serpentine
belts, draw a diagram to help correctly rein- 1. Clear the raw-water opening outside
stall the belt. the hull.
2. Clean the raw-water suction screen
COVER OF RAWWATER PUMP COLD inside the hull.
Urgency: Not urgent 3. Remove the cover of the raw-water
Suggested action: None. This is normal. pump and inspect the neoprene
A cold raw-water pump cover is a good (rubber-like) impeller for damage.
sign and is proof that cold water is indeed
being pumped through the cooling system to A hot raw-water pump cover means that
cool the engine. no raw water is passing through the engine
226 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

to cool it. Check the raw-water strainer. If Low Temperature High Temperature
Coolant Returning Coolant Going from
it is clear, the through-hull to the raw-water to the Engine’s the Engine to the
pump is probably clogged. Water Pump Inlet Heat Exchanger
Opening

RAWWATER COOLING SYSTEM

PLUMBING COLD Sacrificial
Urgency: No action needed Anode
(Zinc)
Suggested action: This is normal and very (Greatly Simplified Veiw)
desirable.
The plumbing is supposed to be cold when
the engine is running.
Drain Plug

RAWWATER COOLING SYSTEM PLUMB

ING HOT
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: Cold Salt Warm Salt
Water In Water Out

1. Clear the raw-water inlet opening Fig. 12-12. The heat exchanger sends excess engine heat
outside the hull. overboard.
2. Clear the raw-water strainer inside the
hull.
3. Verify that the raw-water pump is INLET OPENING TO ENGINE COOLANT
turning and that the impeller is intact. PUMP TOO HOT TO HOLD WITH BARE
HAND
Hot raw-water plumbing is a serious Urgency: Requires immediate attention
problem. A freshwater-cooled engine that Suggested actions:
depends on the raw-water pump for cool-
ing will soon overheat and fail unless the 1. If so equipped, check for crimps, kinks,
engine is immediately turned off. The usual or other damage to the keel cooler
cause is a blocked through-hull that cuts plumbing inside or outside the boat.
off water flowing to the raw-water pump. A frozen keel cooler will stop coolant
circulation.
2. Check the belt tension on the coolant
OUTLET PLUMBING OF RAWWATER pump, if so equipped, to be sure the
HEAT EXCHANGER IS WARM pump is turning.
Urgency: No action is needed. 3. Replace the thermostat.
Suggested action: This is normal. 4. Heat exchanger problems can also
The raw water is carrying heat away from cause the coolant pump to warm up if
the engine cooling system (Fig. 12-12). the raw water is not flowing through
 GASOLINE ENGINES 227

the heat exchanger system. Check the EXHAUST SYSTEM

heat exchanger and raw-water and coolant
lines. WHAT YOU SEE
ENGINE PRODUCES BLUE SMOKE
Lack of coolant circulation through the keel Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
cooler or heat exchanger will cause excessive heat. monitored
Suggested actions:
OIL, COOLANT, FUEL HOSES HARD
1. Remove the valve covers and carefully
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
inspect the inner part of the valve
Suggested action: Replace hoses as soon as
springs. Watch for small pieces of black
possible.
neoprene (rubber) that are the sign of
Old hoses or those that have been used in
degraded valve stem oil seals.
very hot conditions will get hard and should
2. If the valve stem seals are good, then
be replaced.
the piston rings may be worn or
damaged.
ENDS OF COOLANT HOSES VERY SOFT; 3. The next step is to consult the engine
ALMOST GUMMY IN CONSISTENCY repair manual for directions on per-
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient forming a cylinder compression test.
Suggested action: Replace hoses as soon as See Chapter 16.
possible.
Hoses attacked on the exterior by strong Blue smoke indicates oil consumption that
chemicals, fuel, or oil will soften and fail. is going by the piston rings or valve guides.
Galvanic corrosion in coolant hoses can also While it seldom occurs, adding too much of
soften hose ends. some kinds of fuel conditioner to the gasoline
will cause an engine to produce blue smoke.
WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR Blue smoke is usually the sign of a worn
BELTS SEEM EXCESSIVELY TIGHT engine.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested action: Loosen the belts. ENGINE PRODUCES BLACK SMOKE
Excessive belt tension will wear pump Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
bearings. monitored
Suggested actions:
WATER PUMP AND ALTERNATOR
BELTS TOO LOOSE 1. Black smoke indicates either too much
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient fuel or too little air in the cylinder.
Suggested action: Tighten the belts. First, change the air filter.
Loose belts will slip on the pulley, limit- 2. Next, consider adjusting the choke on
ing the available power to the driven member carbureted engines, or even installing a
while shortening belt and pulley life. manual choke.
228 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

3. For fuel-injected engines, consult the 1. Check the distributor cap for carbon
engine repair manual. tracking. Carbon tracking looks like a
pencil line drawn inside the cap. The
The problem may be that the choke is set carbon in the track lets the high volt-
too rich or stuck closed (on a carbureted gas- age current flow to ground rather than
oline engine), an air filter may be clogged, or jumping the gap at the spark plugs.
there may be restrictions in the exhaust sys- 2. Rewire the spark plug wires to the
tem. Black smoke from a gasoline engine with distributor cap.
fuel injection likewise indicates the air-fuel
ratio is too rich with gasoline. However, since This type of sound can be due to a faulty
most fuel-injected engines are computer con- intake valve or seat, or spark plug wires placed
trolled, the engine will require scanning for in the wrong order on the distributor cap
trouble codes from the computer. (Fig. 12-13). Consult the engine manual for
the correct firing order. Ignition spark timing
WHAT YOU HEAR
must also be checked. If nothing else is found,
EXHAUST TONE NOT SMOOTH,
the engine timing chain may be so loose that
RATHER IRREGULAR
the spark timing has slipped (jumped time).
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
The chain drives not only the camshaft and
Suggested action: Check for sparking com-
oil pump on many gasoline engines, but also
ing from the spark plug wires. Replace any
the ignition distributor. Notice the numbered
that spark, if not the whole set.
firing order labeled on the cap for each wire
An engine miss due to a faulty cylinder or
and also the distributor’s direction of rota-
ignition system problem can make the engine
tion in Fig. 12-13.
sound irregular while the boat is under way.
MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL
EXHAUST TONE HAS INTERMITTENT INTERFACE
POPPING SOUND
WHAT YOU SEE
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
SPARKING COMES OFF IGNITION
Suggested action: Crossed spark plug wires
WIRES
will sound like a pop. Verify that the plug
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
wires and plugs are wired in the correct firing
monitored
order and in the correct rotation.
Suggested actions:
A sticky exhaust valve that hangs open can
also cause an intermittent popping noise.
1. At the least, replace any wires that are
sparking.
BACKFIRING OR POPPING NOISE COM
2. Consider replacing the wires as a set
ING FROM ENGINE AIRINTAKE OR
and upgrading to a premium type of
EXHAUST PIPE
insulation and a larger diameter wire.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
3. Route the wires away from areas of
Suggested actions:
heat and chafing.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 229

Fig. 12-13. Make certain the spark plugs that connect to the numbered terminals on the distributor cap fire in the correct
order.

When spark plug wires age, are physically have very high voltage to the spark plugs and
damaged, or are exposed to excessive heat, the will require thicker insulation.
insulation will break down and the spark will
go to ground before reaching the spark plug. WHAT YOU HEAR
When this happens, replacement is required. NOISE COMING FROM ALTERNATOR
Note: To positively check an ignition system Urgency: Requires immediate attention
for faulty insulation, watch the engine run at Suggested action: Remove the alternator
night. The short circuits are easy to spot in the belt and turn the alternator by hand to see if
dark. The wires can be rerouted until new ones it sounds or feels rough. If it does, replace the
are obtained. An air gap is a good insulator for alternator. Note: Always disconnect the bat-
even a bare wire, if the wire can be kept sus- tery when changing alternators.
pended and away from grounds. Wires can be As alternator bearings begin to fail, they
temporarily insulated with almost any plastic can make noise. When the bearing clearance
or rubber-like material. Newer gasoline engines becomes excessive, the tension of the drive
230 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

belt will pull the armature off-center and the The action of a starter motor, when every-
spinning armature will begin to contact the thing is right with the electrical system, is that
side of the bore in the field windings, mak- of a scarcely controlled dead short. Excessive
ing even more noise. Normally, however, heat harms starters by breaking down the
long before things get this bad, someone will insulation of the windings and eventually
notice that the alternator isn’t working. melts conductors inside the starter.

WHAT YOU FEEL STARTER MOTOR HOT TO THE

BATTERY CABLES WARM TO THE TOUCH
TOUCH Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Suggested action: Check the tune of the
Suggested action: Consult the engine engine and its general condition.
service manual to learn how to do a starter Heat at the starter motor indicates the
amperage draw test. insulation has overheated. This will eventu-
High current draw, such as overcranking ally cause a short circuit. For the best depend-
while starting a tired engine, can cause the ability, consider replacing the starter, or at
battery cables to get warm. High resistance in least getting a new spare as soon as possible.
the battery cable ends or cables of too small a
gauge or that are too long are other possible AFTER SHUTTING OFF ENGINE,
causes. ALTERNATOR OR WATER PUMP PUL
LEY CAN BE TURNED INSIDE THE
BATTERY CABLES HOT TO THE BELT BY HAND
TOUCH Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Suggested action: Increase belt tension.
Suggested action: Perform a starter amper- If it takes a huge amount of belt tension to
age draw test and prepare to replace the stop the slippage, suspect that the width and
starter and possibly the cables. contour of the belt or pulley may be wrong.
Hot battery cables are a bad sign because
it means that the electrical current (amperage LOOSE STUDS ON ELECTRICAL CON
draw) is too high, and the engine requires too NECTIONS ON STARTER, STARTER
much cranking to start. The starter motor SOLENOID, OR ALTERNATOR RESULTS
may be failing. IN STUD WOBBLING
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
STARTER MOTOR WARM TO THE Suggested action: Replace components that
TOUCH have loose studs.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Loose studs show that an electrical com-
Suggested action: Slight heat at the starter ponent is failing and requires replacement.
motor is OK, although it is true that a starter This often results from the stud being struck
on an engine that starts well will never get or bumped, or from the electrical component
warm. being severely overheated.
 GASOLINE ENGINES 231

WHAT YOU SMELL ODOR OF SULFUR SMELLS LIKE

ODOR OF BURNING RUBBER OR ROTTEN EGGS
PLASTIC Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Suggested actions:
Suggested actions:
1. Turn off the engine and the power
1. Check for a slipping alternator belt or to any battery chargers on the boat,
a locked-up alternator or water pump. and fill the batteries with distilled
2. See if something like raingear is lean- water.
ing against a hot part of the engine. 2. Start the engine and check the alter-
3. Turn off all AC and DC electrical nator charging voltage and be sure it
power and check for hot electrical wir- is within specifications. If it’s not, the
ing by quickly running your hands over alternator or the voltage regulator
all of the accessible wiring harnesses and requires repairs.
cables on the boat. Be certain that no AC
power source is active before you do this. An overcharging battery or one that is
boiling dry of electrolyte will produce a sul-
The odor could mean there is a fire on fur smell.
board. Use extreme caution in this situation.
 CHAPTER 13
TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES:
CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM

The cabin and engine room are both impor- where many connecting systems join together.
tant locations on board. The crew must have Freshwater pumps, bilge pumps, refrigeration
a safe and comfortable place to eat, sleep, and systems, battery chargers, inverters, generators
relax while the boat is at rest or under way. The (Fig. 13-1), and myriad hoses and electrical
engine room is obviously important because it cables all can generally be found in an engine
houses the boat’s propulsion system, and it is room.

Fig. 13-1. Larger boats often have generator sets. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

232
 CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM 233

When something goes wrong in the cabin probably at the pressure relief built into the pres-
or engine room, knowing what to look for and sure cap on the cooling system expansion tank.
how to address what you find is essential. This
chapter will provide you with a series of symp- HAZE WITH EXHAUST ODOR HANGS
toms that may become apparent in engine room IN CABIN OR ENGINE ROOM
systems, as well as a detailed checklist highlight- Urgency: Requires immediate attention
ing the level of urgency and suggested actions Suggested actions:
you should take to troubleshoot the problem.
The more in-depth background material will 1. Check the engine air filter. It will be
help you determine what caused the problem. black if there is an exhaust leak.
As in the previous chapters dealing with diesel 2. Check all joints in the exhaust plumbing
and gasoline engines, this one is organized by for the accumulation of black soot, which
each of the five senses you will use in the trou- shows there is an exhaust leak in the area.
bleshooting process. The remaining two trou- 3. If soot has accumulated on a bolted
bleshooting chapters also share this format. joint, try tightening the bolts around
the exhaust flange.
WHAT YOU SEE 4. Look for failed gaskets and cracked
STEAM IN CABIN OR ENGINE ROOM exhaust tubing (Fig. 13-2).
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: New gaskets can be cut from high-
temperature gasket material and installed
1. Turn off the engine and check the after removing the bolts from the exhaust
engine temperature gauge for an exces- flange. Tap out the new gasket as shown in
sive reading (over 180°F). Figure 13-3, by laying the gasket paper over
2. While the engine cools, check for cool- the flange and then tapping with the hammer
ant leaks, especially for any that might
spray hot engine surfaces.
3. When the engine is cool enough to HUNTING EXHAUST LEAKS
touch (below 140°F), check the coolant
To find the exact location of a leak, trace
level. Low coolant is further proof of a along the exhaust system’s outer insulation
coolant leak. wrap and look for black areas. Another way to
4. Consult the engine manual and consider find an exhaust leak is to start the engine and
performing a cooling system pressure let it idle in neutral. Next, turn off the engine
test. room lights and turn on a flashlight. Now,
while still in neutral, give the engine some
Steam in the engine room that lacks a sweet throttle. The leak will gush and be easy to see
smell indicates that it derived from straight with the flashlight. Even very small exhaust
water, or at least from water with very little leaks are made worse by high back-pressure
antifreeze coolant mixed in. The steam resulted in the exhaust system.
from possible overheating or a leak, which is
234 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 13-2. Check the exhaust system tubing for holes. This section of exhaust pipe rusted through
from the outside.

Hot antifreeze coolant dripping or spray-

Gasket Paper on
Top of Flange ing on a hot surface on the engine, such as the
exhaust manifold, will vaporize and cause a
haze that a person can smell or taste.

HAZE WITH SULFUR SMELL

Fig. 13-3. Tapping out a new gasket. Here a gasket paper Urgency: Requires immediate attention
blank has been laid over an exhaust flange, and
now we’re tapping out the fastener holes. Suggested actions:

to cut the needed holes and outline. Coat the 1. Turn off the battery charger or check
bolt threads with anti-seize thread lubricant the alternator for overcharging due to a
before installation. This will enable future faulty voltage regulator.
removal of the bolts rather than having to cut 2. Turn off the battery switch and fill the
them off when the threads gall. (Galling is the batteries with distilled water to the
seizure of threaded nuts on bolt threads.) mark inside the fill opening.

HAZE WITH SWEET SMELL Severely overcharging batteries will put a

Urgency: Requires immediate attention haze in the air that smells like sulfur. Turning
Suggested action: See first symptom, the off the alternator or battery charger will allow
one related to steam in the engine room. you to safely fill lead-acid batteries. To locate
 CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM 235

the source of the overcharging, first run the Engine compartment temperature must be
alternator, then the battery charger. Measure kept between 40° and 70°F.
the voltage each time you do this. If the volt-
age is more than 3 volts over the electrical BLACK POWDER COATING FRONT OF
system’s rating, then the alternator regulator ENGINE NEAR A VBELT
must be replaced or a certified marine elec- Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
trician must be called to troubleshoot the Suggested actions:
battery charger. Note: Many alternators have
internal regulators. In a case like this, the alter- 1. Tighten belts to stop slippage.
nator would need to be replaced. 2. Replace the belts if they are badly worn.

VAPOR OR STEAM COMING FROM A slipping belt will “throw rubber”—that

TRANSMISSION VENT is, small particles of belt material (Fig. 13-4).
Urgency: Requires immediate attention This will lead to slippage of the alterna-
Suggested actions: tor belt on the pulley, and can even result in
water pump belt slippage. Water pump belt
1. Turn off the engine and let the trans- slippage can result in engine overheating.
mission cool for one hour or until it
can be touched. BATTERY POSTS MELTED AND
2. Check the transmission oil level and fill ERODED AWAY BY ARCING, MAKING
it to the mark if low. If the level is high, IT IMPOSSIBLE TO CONNECT BAT
drain the transmission and change the oil TERY CABLE
because engine coolant may be present. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
3. If there is coolant in the transmission, Suggested action: Replace the battery or, in
replace the oil cooler. an emergency, pour a temporary battery post.
Damaged battery posts can be temporar-
Failure of the transmission oil cooler core ily restored. See Chapter 7 and Fig. 7-16 for
will allow engine coolant to enter the rear of more details.
the unit when the engine is turned off. When
the engine and transmission are used again, ALTERNATING CURRENT AC LIGHT
coolant will vent from the transmission as BROWNOUTS
water vapor or steam, indicating that further Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
checking must be done. Suggested actions:

CRACKS INSIDE DRIVE BELTS 1. Replace the generator fuel filters and
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient check for low fuel levels.
Suggested action: Replace the belts. 2. Check the air filter for partial
Cracks on the traction side of a belt mean plugging.
either that the belt has many hours on it 3. Check for air in the fuel (refer to
or that the engine compartment is too hot. generator service manual).
236 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 13-4. Replace belts that are giving off rubber or have slipped. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)

A “brownout” indicates a lowering of Air in diesel fuel can cause brownouts.

voltage to the lights and other electrically The air trapped in the generator fuel sys-
powered equipment, often the result of a tem triggers irregular fuel delivery that in
loss of engine speed when additional load turn makes the engine run faster or slower
is added to the system. When the genera- in short intervals of time. The end result is
tor size is marginal for the application, or a power surge or power drop. When gen-
when new electrical equipment capable of erator engine speed drops, the lights dim.
using more electricity has been installed in Use a sight glass in-line in the fuel system to
the boat, sequential switching of loads may spot air bubbles. A sight glass can be made
be needed. Sequential loading means that from clear plastic tubing for use on fuel
the largest loads are put on the generator systems with less than 7 psi of fuel transfer
first, and then smaller and smaller loads are pump (fuel lift pump) pressure. Consult the
added until the generator is loaded to its engine service manual to learn the pressure
maximum capacity. of your system.
 CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM 237

DIRECT CURRENT DC LIGHTS plug in the system. Check each glow plug
BROWNOUT for continuity. The indicators are rated
Urgency: Requires immediate attention for the draw the system has; therefore, a
Suggested action: Brownouts in DC systems 3-cylinder indicator will not work properly
often result from dirty electrical connections. on an engine with more cylinders (glow
Turn off your battery charger, disconnect the plugs).
AC shore power cord, and begin troubleshoot-
ing by cleaning the battery cable terminals. WATER SLOWLY ENTERS BOAT NEAR
A DC brownout is caused by low voltage. PROPELLER SHAFT
A gradual dimming is normal as batteries dis- Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
charge. However, a sudden dimming of the Suggested actions:
DC lights is a sign of trouble, and the reason
must be found immediately. Start by turn- 1. Check the stuffing box packing and
ing off any battery chargers and also all loads shaft gland for soft hose.
before looking at the batteries and the battery 2. Tightening the packing nut will reduce
connections. Check the electrolyte level in the the water flow. If adjustments don’t
batteries, unless they are maintenance-free help, replace the packing.
AGM or gel types. Watch for wires or cables
with faulty insulation or those that are warm. Check the engine manufacturer’s recom-
mendations regarding stuffing box flow rates.
INSTRUMENT PANEL GLOWPLUG Water dripping out so fast (Fig. 13-5) that
INDICATOR BURNS OUT you can’t easily count drops per minutes is
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient excessive. Newer boats are often equipped
Suggested action: Order the part from the with dripless shaft seals. Be sure you know
factory and replace the indicator, or try the whether your boat has one or if it has a tradi-
following tip. tional stuffing box.
For diesel engines equipped with glow plugs,
it is important that the glowing hot wire indica-
tor in the instrument panel works. The purpose
Stuffing
of the indicator is to show when to crank the Box Packing Adjustment
engine, so that the glow plugs are not energized
for too long. If left on too long, the tips of the
glow plugs will burn off and fall into the cylin-
der on top of the piston, and this will destroy Tail
Shaft
the engine. To make your own glow-plug indi-
cator, fabricate a small metal tube and install
an extra glow plug in it behind the instrument
panel. See Chapter 7 and Fig. 7-17.
Note: If a good indicator fails to glow, Fig. 13-5. Monitor stuffing box water flow. The steady drip
you may have at least one burned-out glow rate shown here is probably about right.
238 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

WATER SLOWLY ENTERS BOAT

BEHIND PROPELLER SHAFT PACKING WATER ENTERING THROUGH THE
GLAND, WHERE STUFFING BOX EXHAUST SYSTEM
ATTACHES TO REAR OF SHAFT ALLEY
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient A horizontal exhaust system needs a periodic
Suggested action: Tighten the bolts that replacement of the rubber flap outside the
attach the body of the stuffing box to the end transom where the exhaust exits the boat. It
of the shaft alley. may also need changes to improve the water
The boat must be hauled or careened exclusion. Such changes could include install-
to repair seals behind the stuffing box. The ing the exhaust system with a steeper down-
stuffing box can then be unbolted and pulled ward grade from the engine to the exhaust
far out enough to be resealed with the appro- outlet, or the installation of a neoprene water
priate gasket, sealant, or both. trap muffler in the system.

HOLE IN HULL ALLOWS WATER

INTO BOAT 2. Check the fuel level in the tank and
Urgency: Requires immediate attention check the stove for a fuel leak. A fuel
Suggested action: Obviously, plug the hole leak should be easy to smell.
by any means possible. 3. Check the water level in potable water
In a pinch, grab a pillow or mattress and tanks to detect any possible leaks.
wedge it into the hole to slow the water. When 4. Check the bilge for a high water level.
bilge pumps fail and the leak is small, replumb
the engine heat exchanger pump, if so equipped, The ticking may be coming from the electric
to draw water out of the bilge through the galley stove oil pump working or running out
engine freshwater cooling system. Figure 13-6 of fuel. It may also be a potable water pump
shows commonsense mounting of the pump. working or running out of water.
The pump switch is on the right, and the level WHAT YOU SMELL
alarm switch is next to the pump. The block of AMMONIA ODOR IN ENGINE ROOM
wood is well attached to the metal angle iron, OR CABIN
and the pump and switches are mounted on Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
the wood. Suggested actions:

WHAT YOU HEAR 1. Check pressure of ammonia refrigera-

HEAR RAPID TICK, TICK, TICK SOUND tion system, if so equipped.
IN CABIN 2. Check the bilge and clean it if needed.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested actions: The odor may be coming from an ammonia
refrigeration system leak, if so equipped. This
1. Check the oil stove fuel lift pump, if so can also be decomposing fish in the bilges of
equipped. fishing vessels.
 CABIN AND ENGINE ROOM 239

pump float switch alarm switch

Fig. 13-6. A good bilge pump installation on a steel sailboat. A piece of hardwood fastened to the engine bed is the base for the
components. The pump is low in the bilge, and the float switch and alarm are submersible.

BURNING OIL ODOR IN ENGINE ROOM The source of such a leak is easy to find by
OR CABIN following your nose.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: DECOMPOSING FISH ODOR IN ENGINE
ROOM
1. Check for a valve cover leak on the Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
engine that may allow oil to drip on aSuggested action: Clean the bilge with
hot surface, such as an exhaust manifold.
a bristle brush and bleach dissolved in
2. Monitor the engine for unusual oil water.
consumption. Rotting fish in the bilge should be cleaned
out because it outgases into the engine room.
Oil leaking on a hot surface will make The gas from decomposing fish is toxic, not
obnoxious smoke and may eventually burn. to mention highly offensive.
240 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

EXHAUST ODOR IN ENGINE ROOM, 1) when the boat is under way; 2) when the
WITH VISIBLE HAZE boat is closed up at night for sleeping and
Urgency: Requires immediate attention the heat is on; 3) when the boat is idling at
Suggested action: Check all the joints in the dock.
the exhaust system for black soot, a sure sign ODOR OF BURNING PLASTIC OR
of a leak. Repair the leak. ELECTRICAL WIRE INSULATION
Exhaust leaks will cause a haze in the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
engine room that will plug every engine’s Suggested actions:
air filter. When exhaust flexes are installed
incorrectly, they will soon fatigue, causing 1. Check the wires coming out of the
a leak. breaker panel for warmth. Caution: If
there is any doubt in your mind whether
you have the knowledge to do this
PEOPLE GET SICK SUDDENLY OR
effectively, don’t mess with the wiring.
CONSISTENTLY WHEN WORKING IN
Simply shut off the electricity and look
BOAT’S ENGINE ROOM
for signs of fire. Safety requires the use of
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
an infrared thermometer when testing
Suggested action: Monitor the fire sup-
for heat in wiring, in case there is bare
pression system and the refrigeration sys-
insulation. If you don’t have an infrared
tem, if so equipped, for slow leaks. If any are
thermometer, stay away from the wiring in
detected, repair them. If you can’t find any-
this situation!
thing unusual, have a professional look at the
2. Check the electrical breakers (fuses)
boat.
for radiated heat with the infrared
Toxic gases in the engine room must be
thermometer.
eliminated. The engine room and the cabin
must both have a carbon monoxide alarm A yearly survey of the boat’s electrical
installed. If people get sick or even fail to system by a marine electrician is a good pre-
feel their best when boating, the air in the ventive measure. Sure, it costs money, but
boat must tested to determine the percent- the potential trouble you’ll avoid, such as a
age of oxygen in a variety of situations: fire, is well worth the expense.
 CHAPTER 14
TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES:
TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS

The transmission is as important as your can draw air into the oil when the engine is
boat’s engine. It transfers engine power to running. Aerated oil will quickly cause severe
the propeller shaft at controlled speeds and damage to the pump. It is possible for the suc-
allows you to shift gears to make the boat tion hose to let air into the stream of oil, with
go in forward and reverse. If something no visible evidence of oil leaking to the out-
goes wrong, you need to know what to do to side of the hose when the unit is turned off.
address the problem. This chapter will pro- It’s a very good preventive measure to replace
vide some guidance on how you can use your the suction hose yearly or when it begins to
five senses in the troubleshooting process, harden.
just as in Chapters 11 through 13.
In this chapter, you will find information LIGHTCOLORED OIL LEAKS FROM
on transmissions with hydraulically applied FLYWHEEL HOUSING
internal clutches since these are most com- Urgency: Requires immediate attention
mon on motoryachts and commercial vessels. Suggested action: Replace the transmission
When troubleshooting older transmissions front seal, which is located under the drive
with mechanically applied clutches, you will coupling (Fig. 14-1).
need to consult the manufacturer’s repair For engines that power transmissions,
manual. However, the information provided such as a BorgWarner Velvet Drive, Hurth,
in these pages will still be helpful to you. Twin Disc, or ZF, to name just a few, a light-
Details on troubleshooting outboards and er-colored oil leaking from the flywheel hous-
outdrives will also be included. ing indicates an oil leak in the front seal. It
WHAT YOU SEE is coming from the transmission’s input shaft
LIGHT BROWN OIL LEAKS FROM oil seal located between the engine’s flywheel
TRANSMISSION WHILE UNIT IS and the front of the transmission housing.
TURNED OFF The transmission must be removed to gain
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient access to the seal.
Suggested Action: Replace the oil pan gas-
ket, if so equipped. LIGHT BROWN OIL LEAKS FROM
Oil can also leak from the transmission ENGINEMOUNTED TRANSMISSION
pump suction hose when the engine is off. OIL COOLER
If there is a leak, even a small one, the pump Urgency: Requires immediate attention
241
242 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 14-1. The front transmission seal is under this drive coupling.

Suggested action: Check for loose or faulty for the presence of wear metals or brass-col-
fittings or a faulty hose. ored clutch material. If a lot of metal is pres-
An oil leak in the oil cooler can lead to ent, call a marine mechanic.
damage. Make repairs immediately. It is normal for some older transmissions
to creep in forward or reverse when they are
PROPELLER SHAFT CREEPS SLOWLY cold. This condition is sometimes referred to as
IN NEUTRAL BEFORE TRANSMISSION gear creep, which is defined as a slow turning of
WARMS UP the output shaft (and therefore the propeller)
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be when the engine is running in neutral. Creep
monitored usually turns the propeller in the direction of
Suggested action: This can be normal if forward travel, because it is often the forward
high-viscosity oil is used in a cold climate. clutches that get the most use and finally warp.
Follow up by checking the transmission filter Warped clutch discs cannot fully disengage.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 243

Taking great care for safety’s sake, grasp PROPELLER SHAFT CREEPS SLOWLY
the shaft with a gloved hand and try stopping IN FORWARD OR REVERSE DIRECTION
the motion of the propeller. If you can, there WHEN TRANSMISSION AND OIL ARE
is no cause for alarm. Just check periodically UP TO TEMPERATURE
to see if the creep worsens. If you can’t stop Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
the output shaft, then there is clutch disc Suggested action: Check to be sure that the
damage inside the transmission. When the transmission control lever is centered in the neu-
shaft tries to propel the boat forward, the tral position (Fig. 14-2). A control or control valve
discs in the forward clutch pack are warped. that is partially in gear when the control handle in
The same applies to reverse. When the shaft the wheelhouse is in neutral will cause creep.
wants to back down, the discs in the reverse If the control is centered and the shaft still
clutch pack are warped. Warped discs must creeps, the cause is likely warped clutch discs.
be replaced. Consult the transmission ser- If clutch material (brass-colored metal) is
vice manual for instructions on making found in the oil, consult a marine mechanic
repairs. about clutch replacement.

Fig. 14-2. Center the transmission control to neutral.

244 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

After a transmission clutch assembly has A broken internal shaft inside the trans-
slipped under power, whether it is the forward mission, a broken input coupling, or a failed
or reverse clutch pack, the clutch discs warp. clutch will stop the propeller from spinning.
The sign of warped discs is pretty simple to Transmissions will also slip if the oil leaks
identify: The shaft still creeps in neutral even away. A broken transmission control can
when the transmission is up to temperature. make you think the engine is in gear when in
When this is the case, the propeller shaft is fact it is not.
difficult or impossible to stop by hand. Creep Note: Some transmissions provide the
indicates the clutch pack is on the way out, option of a manual clutch application in for-
because the forward clutch discs have warped ward, which is called the come-home feature
and can never truly disengage; they will con- (Fig. 14-3). With it, the forward clutch mecha-
tinue to overheat and degenerate. nism can be locked (applied) even though the
clutch pack has failed. Your service manual will
PROPELLER WON’T SPIN WITH say if your gear is so equipped. Engagement of
TRANSMISSION CONTROL IN FORWARD the come-home screws is done with the engine
OR REVERSE turned off. See Chapter 6 for more details on
Urgency: Requires immediate attention the come-home feature.
Suggested actions:
OBJECTS FORWARD IN BOAT SHAKE
1. Consult the repair manual to identify MORE THAN THOSE AFT
the correct hydraulic pressure when Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
the transmission is in neutral and in monitored
gear. Also, refer to the troubleshooting Suggested actions:
section.
2. If the pressure is low or nonexistent, 1. Check the tightness of all fasteners on
check the transmission oil level. the front motor mounts.
3. If the boat is a fishing vessel equipped 2. Tighten fasteners on the front crank-
with a trolling valve, make sure the shaft pulley; these are especially
control is in the disengaged position. important.
3. Check the engine repair manual for
Although rare on recreational boats, troll- troubleshooting ideas.
ing valves are often fitted to fishing boat
transmissions. The trolling valve permits the Faulty front power-take-offs are a likely
skipper to reduce the propeller speed even cause of vibration toward the front of a boat.
lower than it would be with the engine at low A defective front crankshaft pulley or vibra-
idle. If the trolling valve is fully activated, it tion damper can also cause severe vibration.
will sometimes stop the propeller from turn- Always identify the engine speed at which the
ing even though the transmission is in for- vibration is the most noticeable and whether
ward or reverse. This will make it appear as the vibration is related to boat speed while
though the transmission is not working. under way.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 245

Fig. 14-3. Accessing the come-home screws, both of which are circled.

To learn if the front PTO is the source of Propeller shaft misalignment, a damaged
the vibration, turn off the engine and unbolt propeller, or intermediate shaft pillow block
the PTO drive coupling, if so equipped. Next, bearing damage are likely causes for this sort
run the engine (and the boat, if needed) at the of vibration problem.
speed that resulted in the most vibration.
PROPELLER SHAFT SPINS WITH
OBJECTS AFT IN BOAT SHAKE MORE ENGINE OFF
THAN THOSE FORWARD Urgency: Not urgent
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be Suggested action: None. A propeller will
monitored spin when the engine is turned off under cer-
Suggested actions: tain circumstances: a sailboat under sail, a
powerboat tied to a dock in swift current, or a
1. Check all fasteners on the propeller boat under tow.
shaft for tightness. A freewheeling propeller does not repre-
2. See Chapter 17 for more on shaft sent a problem for a hydraulic transmission
alignment. that is rated to allow turning of the output
246 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

shaft with the engine off (see your service Suggested action: Pressure-test the transmis-
manual for rating). If yours isn’t so rated, sion oil cooler. If you have determined that
hang a pipe wrench on the shaft (with an the engine is also losing coolant, replace the oil
old leather glove in the wrench jaws to pro- cooler.
tect the shaft) wherever it is accessible to stop When water or coolant leaks into the
the spinning. The teeth of the pipe wrench transmission through a faulty oil cooler, it
will grab the shaft and the handle will come travels to the bottom of the oil pan because
to rest on the bottom of the boat, locking the it is heavier than the lube oil. It will stay on
shaft. Most small diesel engines use mechani- the bottom until the engine is started. When
cal transmissions, which are lubricated even the engine is running, water or coolant is
when freewheeling. It is common practice pulled from the bottom of the oil pan into the
to leave these transmissions in neutral when transmission oil pump. From there, it is sent
under sail. throughout the transmission lubrication sys-
tem. As the oil and coolant warm up, emulsifi-
METALLIC PARTICLES GLITTER IN cation occurs, creating a foamy, oily substance
TRANSMISSION OIL OR IN OIL FILTER that cannot provide proper lubrication.
MEDIA TRANSMISSION OIL PRESSURE LOW
Urgency: Requires immediate attention Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: Suggested actions:

1. This is most likely a mechanical failure 1. Check the oil level.

in progress. Consult the transmis- 2. Verify the accuracy of the gauge.
sion service manual and call a marine 3. Consult the repair manual for trouble-
mechanic. shooting strategy.
2. If the engine must be run, operate it at Low oil pressure could be the result of a faulty
the lowest possible speed to nurse the gauge, sender, or pressure control valve. There
transmission until repairs can be made, could be an oil suction leak on the oil supply
which should be done quickly. pump, or the oil pump may not be pumping to
capacity.
Dull gray shards of metal in the filter
media indicate steel. This results from metal- TRANSMISSION OIL PRESSURE HIGH
to-metal contact inside the transmission, a WHEN WARM
sure sign of damage. A forward clutch pack Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
may be excessively worn and failing to fully Suggested actions:
disengage. 1. Verify the existing gauge is correct.
2. Consult the repair manual to learn
CREAMCOLORED SLUDGE INSIDE how to check the pressure relief valve
TRANSMISSION OIL FILL CAP OR ON (pressure control valve).
THE DIPSTICK FIG. 144.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention See previous symptom.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 247

Fig. 14-4. The dipstick on this brand-new hydraulic transmission (not yet installed) is clearly visible. Transmissions like this
are common in fishing vessels and motoryachts.

TRANSMISSION OIL PRESSURE 2. Check the output shaft bolts for

NEVER COMES UP ON GAUGE, BUT tightness.
TRANSMISSION WORKS JUST FINE 3. Verify that the front propeller shaft
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient coupling is tight on the propeller shaft.
Suggested action: Replace the pressure 4. Remove the starter motor and pry on
gauge or the sender. the flywheel to see if it is loose on the
See previous two symptoms. crankshaft. If so, the transmission must be
removed to enable removal of the flywheel.
VIBRATION AT REAR OF ENGINE 5. Check the transmission-to-engine
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient flywheel coupling bolts.
Suggested actions:
If the transmission suction screen con-
1. Check the transmission suction screen tains over one-quarter teaspoon of debris,
and ensure that it’s clear of wear metals. then transmission or bearing failure is likely.
248 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

COOLANT RUNS OUT TRANSMISSION 2. If, however, the unit is full of antifreeze
DIPSTICK HOLE WHEN DIPSTICK coolant from a faulty oil cooler, replace
IS REMOVED the cooler.
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested action: Replace the transmis- When the oil cooler core is leaking, it will
sion oil cooler. allow coolant into the transmission oil and
A split or damaged oil cooler will allow transmission oil into the engine cooling system.
engine coolant to flow into the transmission. To test for this, first drain the engine coolant and
then pressure-test the oil side of the transmission
TRANSMISSION SLOW TO ENGAGE oil cooler by disconnecting both oil lines. Next,
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be plug one oil cooler opening and apply under
monitored 30 psi to the other opening by whatever means
Suggested actions: is available. If the cooler core holds pressure, it is
fine, but if not, it must be replaced.
1. Check the oil level. If there is no replacement cooler available,
2. Consult the repair manual to learn the ends of the oil cooler hoses may be coupled
how to check the directional control together after disconnecting both lines from
valve. the oil cooler. This will allow the boat to limp
home at very low engine rpm. But remember:
If the oil is low, the gear will engage slowly.
Marine transmission oil coolers are not
A faulty suction hose on the suction side of optional like transmission oil coolers are on a car
the oil pump will also cause slow engagement, or truck. Without one, the marine transmission
as will a weak oil pump or plugged oil filter won’t last more than a few minutes at full power.
(screen). Check the service manual to learn
if the pressure is too low, and then follow the WHAT YOU HEAR
directions to address the problem. TRANSMISSION MAKES LOUD
CLUNKING NOISE WHEN SHIFTED
WATER SQUIRTS OUT TRANSMISSION INTO GEAR
DIPSTICK HOLE WHEN DIPSTICK IS Urgency: Requires immediate attention
REMOVED Suggested actions:
Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested actions: 1. Make sure the propeller is tight on the
shaft.
1. If the transmission has been swamped, 2. Tighten all shaft coupling bolts.
drain and refill it with the correct oil 3. Check the transmission screen or filter
and run it for two hours at the dock, for wear metal.
periodically shifting from neutral to
forward and back to neutral. Shut off Extra-high idle speed will cause shifting
the engine and change the oil and filter noise even when all else is fine. Verify that the
again. engine idle speed is within the manufacturer’s
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 249

specifications. Reduce the idle speed accord- keyway is long enough and a new coupling
ingly. Never adjust idle speed lower than speci- and key can be installed. (Note: The cou-
fied, because the engine may die when shifted pling shown in Fig. 14-5 has yet to be bored
from forward to reverse during docking. If the for the shaft it will fit.) This new coupling
idle speed is fine, check the transmission suc- comes with bolts and self-locking nuts. Each
tion screen for debris. Debris in the screen or piece of the system must be visually checked.
filter suggests that the transmission is failing. Extreme wear in the transmission can also be
Loose couplings on the propeller shaft, a very noisy during and after engagement.
bad keyway between the shaft and coupling,
loose coupling bolts between couplings, or SLIGHT BUT DEFINITE CHANGE
even a loose propeller will all make noise. IN SOUND OF TRANSMISSION,
When there is room for the propeller and OUTBOARD, OR OUTDRIVE
shaft to move forward a few inches, the for- Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
ward end of the shaft can be cut off, if the monitored

Fig. 14-5. New couplings are made with self-locking nuts. This coupling has yet to be bored for the
shaft it will fit. (Courtesy MER Equipment, Seattle, Washington)
250 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Suggested actions: BOAT’S RIGGING VIBRATES MORE

THAN USUAL
1. Check the transmission screen or cut Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
open the oil filter to check for glitter monitored
that indicates damage or accelerated Suggested actions:
wear.
2. Send a sample of the oil to an oil analy- 1. Start by checking to see if the vibration
sis lab. is related to engine speed. Proceed by
bringing the engine up to operating
Changes in the way an engine or a transmis- temperature and placing the transmis-
sion sounds should be promptly investigated. sion in neutral. Now, slowly bring the
engine up to 75 percent of maximum
HEAR STEADY RUMBLE IN TRANSMIS speed and pay close attention to the
SION OR OUTDRIVE level of vibration in the boat. This test
Urgency: Requires immediate attention will not harm the engine. If there is
Suggested action: See previous symptom. a certain engine speed that produces
Oil filled with small particles of wear vibration every time, then the engine is
metal indicates transmission or clutch pack the problem and you may proceed by
failure. troubleshooting the engine vibration
according to the engine service manual.
WHAT YOU FEEL 2. If the vibration seems worse under way,
VIBRATIONS IN MIDDLE OF BOAT even if it happens at a certain engine
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be speed according to the tachometer,
monitored then it is probably related to propeller
Suggested actions: speed and not the engine.
3. Check the propeller for damage and
1. Check the forward end of the propeller take it to a prop shop if needed.
shaft and coupling for tightness on the 4. Check the screen on the transmission
shaft, as well as the rear transmission suction hose for glitter (metal par-
coupling. ticles). If any is found, the transmission
2. Check the screen on the transmis- is failing.
sion suction side for glitter (metallic 5. If there is no glitter in the screen, then
particles). check for a bent shaft by watching the
3. Check that the propeller is properly shaft turning slowly with the engine in
installed on the shaft taper and that gear. A wobble indicates a bent shaft.
the key is in position.
Excessive vibration is a general clue that
Glitter indicates the transmission is fail- there may be propeller damage, misalign-
ing. When you find it, the source of the vibra- ment, or a transmission failure. It can also be
tion is not far away. the beginning of a shafting or bearing failure.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 251

If the propeller and shaft are straight, WHAT YOU TASTE

then the shaft and engine alignment must be WATER IN THE TRANSMISSION
checked. For more detailed information on IS SALTY
this see Chapter 17. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Suggested action: Check to see if bilge
VIBRATION FELT IN BOAT water is getting into the transmission.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient The transmission may have been swamped,
Suggested actions: or bilge water may have gotten high enough
to enter it through the output shaft oil seal.
1. Check the crankshaft vibration damper
for wobbling or an oil leak if it is a WATER IN TRANSMISSION TASTES
viscous damper. SWEET
2. When the engine’s front power- Urgency: Requires immediate attention
take-off (PTO) shakes more than Suggested action: Check the engine and
the transmission, check to see if any transmission manuals to locate the transmis-
part of the PTO has excess run-out sion oil cooler and then follow up by pressure-
(visible wobble). Often, an out-of- testing it as shown in Chapter 16.
balance condition will accompany Coolant tastes sweet and can enter the
run-out. transmission through the oil cooler that
3. Make note of any recent problems interfaces with engine coolant.
the boat may have had, such as line
caught in the propeller. If the line NO TASTE TO WATER IN
had to be cut out, then the snag was TRANSMISSION
serious enough to bend the propeller Urgency: Requires immediate attention
shaft. Suggested action: Check for a way that rain-
water could be getting into the transmission.
To begin tracking down vibrations, it In boats with dry, vertical exhaust systems,
helps to make note of when and under which rainwater could be dribbling down the out-
conditions the vibration is worst and of what- side of the stack and dripping into the trans-
ever reduces it. Boat vibrations are related to mission vent. If the stack is vertical, it may
when, in relation to engine rpm, and where the need a rain exclusion method installed.
vibration is most noticeable. It may be at the
front of the boat, and this may be related to OUTBOARDS AND OUTDRIVES
a front-mounted PTO. The vibration may WHAT YOU SEE
be in the middle of the boat, and this may OUTBOARD OR OUTDRIVE WON’T
be engine or engine alignment related, or it ENGAGE
may have to do with a rear-mounted PTO. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Vibrations at the rear of the boat are usually Suggested action: Perform a visual
related to bent shafting or misalignment of check of the control cables and the controls
the shaft and engine. (Fig. 14-6).
252 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 14-6. Check the outboard throttle and shift controls for signs of breakage and for full
range of movement. Shown here is a combination throttle and shift control. (The
two functions are often separated.)

If the cables are fine, the unit may need to from forward to neutral to reverse are located
be opened up for a visual inspection. in the leg. Also, the unit may have failed and be
locked up internally. Draining the oil will allow
ENGINE DIES WHEN PUT IN GEAR a visual check for the presence of glitter (metal
Urgency: Requires immediate attention particles indicating a mechanical failure).
Suggested action: Adjust the spark inter-
rupt feature to factory specifications accord- WHEN DRAINED, OIL IN LOWER UNIT
ing to the repair manual. OF OUTBOARD OR OUTDRIVE HAS
The spark interrupt device is located on the METALLIC LUSTER
shift linkage and works by interrupting the Urgency: Requires immediate attention
ignition power to the coil for just an instant to Suggested action: Consult a marine
avoid gear clash in the leg (the leg is the pro- mechanic immediately. Metal in the oil is
peller drive in the water). The gears that shift always a sign of internal destruction.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 253

A very slight amount of metal in the oil is 2. Overfill the unit by one quart, and,
normal in new machinery with a low num- with the boat on a trailer, watch for
ber of operating hours. If excessive glitter is leaks throughout the day.
detected and is accompanied by a new and 3. When the leak is found, follow the
alarming noise, then a failure is in process. repair manual instructions for repair-
ing the leak.
WHEN YOU DRAIN OIL FROM AN 4. When finished, drain the excess oil
OUTBOARD LOWER UNIT OR AN from the unit.
OUTDRIVE, OVER ONE CUP OF WATER
COMES OUT BEFORE ANY OIL IS SEEN The presence of this much water at the
Urgency: Requires immediate attention drain opening (Fig. 14-7) indicates that water
Suggested actions: is leaking into the leg, either through the out-
put shaft (propeller shaft) seal or through a
1. Drain the water from the outdrive. hole or joint in the case.

Fig. 14-7. The lower unit’s drain plug.

254 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

WHEN YOU DRAIN OIL FROM AN Urgency: Requires immediate attention

OUTBOARD LOWER UNIT OR AN Suggested action: Many outboards and
OUTDRIVE, ONLY ONE TEASPOON OF outdrives require periodic greasing (Fig. 14-8)
WATER COMES OUT BEFORE ANY OIL to keep the tilt and breakaway mechanisms
IS SEEN working well. Grease according to the repair
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be manual.
monitored Electrohydraulic trim and tilt systems also
Suggested action: Change the oil frequently require power and an adequate supply of oil
as directed by the service manual. to work. Consult the service manual for your
This small amount of water is normal, unit.
because it is impossible to keep all water out
of the vented drive housing. WHAT YOU SMELL
THICK, BROWN, STRONGSMELLING
OUTDRIVE OR OUTBOARD WON’T OIL LEAKS FROM LOWER UNIT
TILT, WON’T HOLD TILT ADJUSTMENT, Urgency: Requires immediate attention
OR FLIPS UP WHEN SHIFTED INTO Suggested action: Note whether the leak is
REVERSE at the lower shaft seal or coming from joints

Fig. 14-8. Grease the steering pivot (using the zerk fitting shown here) and the tilt mechanism to ensure smooth
operation.
 TRANSMISSIONS AND POWER-TAKE-OFFS 255

in the lower unit where one section is bolted THICK, CLEAR OIL WITH NO STRONG
to another. Consult the service manual for SMELL LEAKS FROM LOWER UNIT
your engine. Urgency: Requires immediate attention
Mineral-based AW 80W-90 gear lube has Suggested action: See previous symptom.
a strong odor and is brown in color. Synthetic gear lube has no odor and is clear.
 CHAPTER 15
TROUBLESHOOTING WITH THE FIVE SENSES:
STEERING AND ENGINE CONTROLS

Steering systems and engine controls are crit- 12' feet length
ical to the safety of your vessel and crew. You 8''

must be able to move the rudder as needed

and to operate the engine throttle and trans- 1/4'' n.c. 5/16'' o.d. 3/32'' cable
(National (Outside extends beyond
mission controls to safely maneuver the boat. Coarse) Diameter) body of cable a
Anything that interferes with these vital func- 3/8'' n.f. (National Fine) full 8" inches
tions can quickly lead to trouble. Fortunately,
these systems are especially friendly to trou- Fig. 15-1. Diagram the length and type of cable you need
before ordering—and preferably before you are
bleshooting with the five senses. in dire need! The example shown here is SAE
Every time you manipulate the helm, you gain (non-metric), but metric sizes are also available.
a feel for how it should respond. Thus you will The thread designation “n.c.” means “National
Coarse,” and “n.f.” means “National Fine.”
quickly know if something is amiss. Likewise,
every time you use the throttle to manage engine
old one to a marine supply store or measure it
speed or the transmission control to shift gears,
for proper length. If possible, draw a diagram
you can sense from the response of the con-
(Fig. 15-1) or photograph the ends of the cable
trol whether or not there is something wrong.
to ensure that you get the right configuration.
This chapter will guide you through the pro-
cess of troubleshooting these essential systems.
CONTROL CABLES HANG
Everything from stubborn steering or engine
HAPHAZARDLY
control cables to what to do if your outdrive
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
starts making ominous noises will be covered.
Suggested action: Route cables out of the
WHAT YOU SEE way and tie them securely to protect them.
STEERING OR CONTROL CABLES Control cables will quickly wear through
APPEAR CHAFED OR DAMAGED if not properly secured.
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested action: Replace the cable. HYDRAULIC STEERING FLUID LEAKS
Cables require protection from chafing dam- FROM PART OF SYSTEM
age. Cover the cable with chafing gear to protect Urgency: Requires immediate attention
it. You can buy chafing gear, or you can make it by Suggested action: Identify the leak and
splitting a hose lengthwise and attaching it with check with a marine mechanic about the best
nylon cable ties. When replacing a cable, take the way to repair it.
256
 STEERING AND ENGINE CONTROLS 257

There is very little standardization of Suggested actions:

steering systems on boats, and often there
is no repair manual available. The various 1. Check for corrosion in the control
hydraulic steering systems use a number of housing as well as in any linkage.
fluids. These systems also use hose or tubing Remove linkage pins and clean all
material, fittings, and even bleeding proce- rust from the pins and the bores.
dures that are specific for each type. Many Lubricate the pins and reinstall
pleasure boats have hydraulic steering sys- them.
tems plumbed with pipe and pipe-threaded 2. Check the condition of control cables,
fittings that are notorious for leaks. A far if so equipped. Cables (Fig. 15-2) that
better practice is to use JIC or Boss O-ring have chafed through will rust and lose
connections. their internal lubrication.
3. For chain controls, check the chain,
WHAT YOU HEAR pulleys, and bushings to see if
OUTBOARD OR OUTDRIVE MAKES they are jammed and in need of
LOUD CLUNKING NOISE WHEN PUT lubrication.
IN GEAR
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient Metal fittings rust without cleaning and
Suggested actions: lubrication. A brass wire brush and pen-
etrating oil will often help clean and free up
1. If possible, lower idle speed slightly. controls.
2. Adjust the spark interrupt mechanism
to the manufacturer’s specifications. ENGINE SPEED THROTTLE OR
TRANSMISSION RESPONDS INCONSIS
Some noise is normal when these are TENTLY TO CONTROL SETTINGS
engaged. However, excessive noise is a sign of Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
engine idle set too high or mechanical damage. Suggested action: Check for broken cables
Compare your engine to a similar unit. You or linkage at the engine and transmission.
will know if the noise is excessive by listening The linkage may need lubrication, or there
to the similar engine as the gears are shifted. may be something pressing against the link-
Next, check for metal in the oil, which is a sure age in a way that hinders movement.
sign of trouble that will require repair. If there
is a clunk but no metal (glitter) in the oil, then THROTTLE WON’T TAKE ENGINE
continue running the engine and keep an eye TO FULL SPEED
on it. Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient
Suggested action: Check the adjustment of
WHAT YOU FEEL the throttle linkage and also the ratio between
THROTTLE OR TRANSMISSION the actuator and the control valve.
LINKAGE VERY STIFF The linkage may be bent, broken, or out of
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient adjustment. The ratio of linkages may need to
258 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Control Cable

Fig. 15-2. Inspect the throttle control cable for signs of wear.

be changed to get more speed control move- according to the manufacturer’s instruc-
ment (Fig. 15-3). Note: This condition may tions when they will not hold. Be sure to
be more of a low power problem than a control use Hyanautic’s fluid in the system and
problem. keep the separate Hyanautic air pressure
reservoir in the 50 to 70 psi range, or as
THROTTLE CONTROL LEVER WON’T specified.
HOLD FULL SPEED
Urgency: Attend to as soon as convenient THROTTLE REDUCES ENGINE SPEED TOO
Suggested action: The friction surfaces in MUCH WHEN SUDDENLY THROTTLED
some controls can be adjusted to help hold the BACK ALL THE WAY, ENGINE DIES
throttle setting better. If the control cannot be Urgency: Requires immediate attention
adjusted to hold the throttle at full speed, it Suggested action: Adjust the engine idle
must be replaced. speed upward.
Hydraulic controls, such as those from When the idle speed is set too low on a
Hyanautic (Fig. 15-4), need to be bled gasoline or diesel engine, the engine will die as
 STEERING AND ENGINE CONTROLS 259

Small Movement Urgency: Not urgent, but should be

Large Movement monitored
Suggested action: Check to see if the
control levers can be adjusted to matching
Diesel
Fuel
positions.
Injection Again, the control ratios may require
Pump
adjusting as shown above in Figure 15-3.
Control Actuator
Governor
THROTTLE LEVERS ON TWIN
Small Movement Large Movement ENGINES MATCH VISUALLY, RUDDER
ANGLE INDICATOR SHOWS BOTH
RUDDERS APPARENTLY STRAIGHT,
AND THE ENGINE SPEEDS ARE EQUAL,
YET BOAT WANTS TO VEER ONE WAY
OR THE OTHER
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
One-to-One Ratio: One-to-One Ratio: monitored
Equal Movement Equal Movement
Suggested actions:

1. Have the rudder angle indicator cali-

bration checked, because it might be
2
inches (one-to-one ratio) 2 off.
inches
2. Verify that both propellers have the
same pitch and diameter.
Fig. 15-3. Some controls, like the hydraulic controls shown
here, require adjustment of the movement ratios Propeller diameters or pitch may differ
to ensure that full throttle in the wheelhouse
corresponds to full throttle on the governor, and from one another if work has recently been
that idle speed in the wheelhouse corresponds done on them. Also, one engine’s tachometer
to idle on the governor. Adjust the linkages as in may be inaccurate.
these three scenarios until you find the ideal. Shift
linkages are adjusted in the same fashion.
TRANSMISSION GEARSHIFT CONTROL
the throttle is pulled back suddenly or when TAKES TOO MUCH EFFORT TO SHIFT
changing from forward to reverse (or the INTO OR OUT OF FORWARD OR
opposite). REVERSE
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be
THROTTLE LEVERS ON TWIN monitored
ENGINES DON’T MATCH POSITION, Suggested action: Disconnect the shift
YET TACHOMETER SHOWS EQUAL linkage at the transmission to see if the con-
ENGINE SPEEDS AND BOAT STEERS trol valve is hard to turn manually. If so, the
STRAIGHT valve must be repaired. If not, there is a cable
260 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

Fig. 15-4. Hydraulic throttle and shift controls require reservoirs like the two shown here. The smaller one
at left is for single helm-station controls. The larger one at right is for multiple-station controls.
These reservoirs need refilling and pressurizing after repairs and before the controls are bled. The
bleeding isn’t easy. Consult your manual, and use the fluid specified there.

or linkage problem between the control and 2. For larger boats with a rudder, check all
the transmission. mechanical parts of the steering system.
Binding linkage or cables or a faulty
Possible causes include a bent steering cylin-
transmission control valve will cause stiff
der rod. Visually inspect every part of the system.
controls.
MOVING HELM HAS NO EFFECT
STEERING REQUIRES EXTRA EFFORT ON STEERING BOAT
Urgency: Not urgent, but should be Urgency: Requires immediate attention
monitored Suggested actions:
Suggested actions:
1. Check the oil level in the hydraulic
1. With an outboard or outdrive, it may steering system, and fill the helm pump
only take greasing the unit’s outer (Fig. 15-5), if so equipped, according
hinge point to correct hard steering. to manufacturer’s directions.
 STEERING AND ENGINE CONTROLS 261

Fig. 15-5. A hydraulic helm pump viewed from behind the bulkhead where it’s mounted. There
are many potential sources of steering-fluid leaks throughout the system.

FOR THE WORKBOAT

Emergency Steering Improvised
Many years ago, Kodiak logger Paul Hansen was crab fishing with his dad twenty miles east of Old
Harbor, Alaska, off Kodiak Island. All was well until something gave way in the steering system, and
suddenly control of the boat was lost. Looking in the lazarette, Paul and his dad found that a vital piece
of the steering mechanism had broken and required welding. With no welding machine on board, they
knew they had to get to Old Harbor to make the repairs.
With the broken steering, the boat would only go in big circles, always turning the same direction. To
compensate, Mr. Hansen had the crew tie a line from the capstan (in the middle of the deck) to a 6-foot
by 6-foot crab pot and ease the pot over the stern. They adjusted the line length so that the crab pot
was barely under water.
When the boat was put in gear, the crew muscled the line from the port side of the stern to starboard
and back, as needed, to keep the boat headed for Old Harbor. They arrived safely, having steered for
twenty miles with a crab pot.
262 PART 2: TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Check all parts of the steering mecha- while you follow the system to the rear of
nisms in the boat, including the steering the boat. This approach will help you find
linkage. out where the steering system stops working
3. Check the key and keyway on the rud- properly. If all else fails, you will have to check
derpost, if so equipped. the rudder by diving on the boat or schedul-
ing a haulout.
When checking steering mechanisms,
have someone move the helm back and forth
PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL
BOAT MECHANIC

263
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 CHAPTER 16
DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER
DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS

Finding defects in critical parts is a major pri- stop flow will actually do so. There is also flow
ority for every mechanical technician, with no testing. With flow testing (Fig. 16-1), it is pos-
exceptions. For boaters, it is a seemingly endless sible to see if a device that is supposed to allow
effort as parts of a boat corrode, wear, or fail. flow does indeed let the flow through. Figure 16-1
In this chapter, nondestructive testing meth- shows a coolant passage, but a qualitative check
ods will be discussed. These methods include for presence or absence of flow also works for
pressure testing, dye penetrant testing, and the oil, fuel, and air passages. Pressure and flow
Magnaflux process, a brand name for testing tests allow you to check areas in systems where
ferrous (containing iron) metals for flaws. visual inspection is impossible.
When beginning to test metal objects, we There are devices aboard boats that must
soon learn that even brand-new, unused met- always hold pressure, must sometimes hold
als can have defects or cracks. Unfortunately, pressure, must always allow flow, or must
no method is completely accurate in identify- sometimes allow flow. For example, the
ing them. Visual inspection in good light is the engine’s water pump forces coolant through
starting point, and this includes the use of a the cooling passages of the engine. The engine
magnifying glass. More advanced techniques, coolant thermostat must open and close at
such as pressure, dye penetrant, and Magnaflux, the right temperatures to either recirculate
extend and multiply the tester’s senses. the coolant in the engine or to send it out to a
When a mechanic is weary from long hours heat exchanger for cooling. As previously men-
and overwork, he or she can start seeing hairline tioned, a flow test is simply verification that
cracks all over a work piece—or, just as serious, there is flow where it is needed. Compressed
can be looking directly at an obvious defect and air, fuel, water, and coolant can all be used to
miss it! So, in a life-or-death situation or one of
huge financial importance, remember to check
Blockage
the part in question with a couple of differ-
ent methods before condemning it or using it. Blockage can be drilled out or dissolved chemically, and
then a visual check can be done for flow through the pipe.
Whenever possible, verify visual findings with
a dye penetrant or pressure test. Water Flow Through Pipe

PRESSURE TESTS
Fig. 16-1. Flow testing is one way to determine the source
Pressure testing is the process of learning of blockages. In the upper schematic view of a
whether a device that should hold pressure or coolant passage, no flow is getting through.

265
266 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

verify flow visually. Sometimes leaking fluid for bubbles. The same simple pressure tests
will leave a trail that you can track back to the used on a leaking tire will serve the boater
source. well when a leak must be found.
One reason engines overheat is plugging of
TOOLS FOR TESTING
the cooling passages with precipitated solids,
The pressure gauge and the manometer are
which prevents coolant flow. After an engine
two of the most common pressure-testing
overheats, cracks develop in the engine cast-
tools. Both take skill to use and read accu-
ings, and the coolant goes places it shouldn’t
rately. The range of pressure gauges varies
go. For example, coolant will flow from a
widely. This is because a gauge that is used to
cracked head or faulty head gasket into the
check pressures in the 5,000 psi range won’t
engine cylinders, causing a hydraulic lock.
be sensitive enough for use in the range of
Eventually, the coolant will reach the oil pan.
5 psi. Therefore, mechanics use whatever range
It can also leak to the outside of the engine.
of pressure gauge is right for the application.
One simple pressure test involves blowing
When testing for 5,000 psi, a gauge of higher
into a hollow fitting while plugging the other
capacity would be used. A gauge with a range
end with your thumb. If air leaks out from
from zero to 6,000 psi would be used to pro-
somewhere it shouldn’t, you’ve used a rudi-
vide a safety margin in case of an unexpected
mentary form of pressure testing to locate
pressure spike. Likewise, to measure 5 psi, a
the defect. This will work for testing many
10 psi gauge would be suitable, or, as we’ll see,
things, one example being engine vacuum con-
a manometer will very accurately measure low
trols. Marine gasoline engines have a vacuum
pressures, including vacuum readings.
advance diaphragm on the distributor that is
Note: When pressure testing, be careful to
easily tested with the mouth by pulling a vac-
standardize the way you look at the pressure
uum on the diaphragm to see if it will hold a
gauge (Fig. 16-2). It also helps to close one eye
vacuum. You can also see if it will move the dis-
and center the line-of-sight so that readings
tributor linkage. When it’s important to keep
taken over time are consistent.
away from the work piece for safety reasons,
connect a piece of new or clean vacuum hose
to the device you are testing. Most pressure
testing is simply a variation of this method.
25 25 25
Next, consider a pressure leak. A car tire 0 50 0 50 0 50
with a slow leak may first be checked audibly,
because leaks can often be heard. Stooping
down by the tire and listening carefully may
help locate the leak. If not, use a squirt bottle Parallax Present: Parallax Present:
The line-of-sight The line-of-sight
filled with diluted dish detergent to spray the is to the left of the
No Parallax
is to the right of the
tire, and watch for foam over the leak. If these gauge face center. gauge face center.

methods don’t find the leak, the people at the Fig. 16-2. When reading pressure gauges, maintain a
tire shop will take it to the next level and place consistent viewing angle so readings are not
the tire in a tank of water and simply watch influenced by your changing line-of-sight.
 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 267

The more uniform the cylinder pressures are,

the better the engine will run.
No Vacuum
When a cylinder’s maximum pressure is
No Pressure
Here OR Here less than 90 percent of the highest cylinder
Pressure
Here OR
Vacuum pressures, it is time to find the cause for the
Here
Meniscus
low cylinder’s pressure reading. Considering
Columns of
Water Equal
the way piston engines are built, the most
Height Columns of common reasons for low cylinder pressure are
Water Unequal
a valve seat leak, a piston ring leak, or a hole
in a piston. This testing method can leave the
user with some uncertainty as to the cause of
the low pressure.
However, if the spark plug (gasoline engine)
Fig. 16-3. A manometer is an instrument that measures is fouled, it is safe to say the engine is burning
changes in pressure.
a lot of oil and that the rings are involved. If
the plug is not fouled and the engine does not
Manometers are made of transparent tub-
burn much oil, then the compression may be
ing and work something like a barometer.
leaking away through a valve seat. Often, an
They register changes in pressure by the
intake valve seat leak can be checked audibly
movement of a column of liquid contained
by listening in the air intake while the engine
inside the transparent tubing. The advan-
is running. Likewise, an exhaust leak can be
tage of the manometer is extreme accuracy.
checked by listening near the outlet of the
The pressure readings are taken in inches
exhaust pipe.
of water or inches of mercury. Both of these
There is a better test for cylinder condi-
readings are easy to convert directly to psi or
tion that takes a little more time, skill, and
the metric unit of pressure, kilopascals (kPa).
equipment. It is called the cylinder leak-
Manometers filled with water display a curve
down test.
shaped (in cross section) like a smile (called
Cylinder Leak-Down Testing. Often used
a meniscus) at the top of the water column
on aircraft engines, this method is very good
(Fig. 16-3). A mercury-filled manometer, on
for determining cylinder and valve condition.
the other hand, displays a meniscus that is
The testing is done after attaching the test
just the opposite, like a frown.
apparatus to the spark plug hole (gasoline
CYLINDER PRESSURE TESTING engine) or in the injector hole (diesel engine).
The engine cylinder compression test is one of This test must be done with the batteries dis-
the most common. It uses a pressure gauge to connected to prevent accidental cranking of
register the maximum pressure that a cylinder the engine. The leak-down test (Fig. 16-4)
will develop when the engine is cranked with works by comparing the leakage rate of any
the starter motor. The test pressure gauge is cylinder against a known pressure and vol-
installed in each cylinder, one at a time, and ume of air that is plumbed into the cylinder
then the cylinder pressures are compared. through the leak-down tester.
268 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

30 30

10 50 10 50 Air Pressure Flex Coupling

Regulator

Valve
Orifice

Air to Injector or Spark Plug Air Coming in to Leak-down (Or Straight)

Hole in Cylinder Head Tester from Air Compressor
Fluid-Filled
Fig. 16-4. The cylinder leak-down tester works by comparing Manometer Exhaust
Pipe Engine
the readings on the two gauges. The closer Seen from Rear
the readings are to one another, the better the
condition of the cylinder. If the downstream gauge
registers a lower pressure, the cylinder is losing
pressure. This test is done with the engine off.
Fig. 16-5. There are two ways to connect a manometer to
the exhaust system—one for a vertical exhaust
Exhaust Back-Pressure Testing. Exhaust and one for a horizontal one. In either case the
manometer should be attached to a straight
back-pressure testing measures excessive section of pipe. If you do not find a plugged hole,
exhaust flow restriction. Engines run better you will have to drill and tap one. The test is done
with low back-pressure in the exhaust system. with the engine running under full power.
Generally speaking, exhaust back-pressure on A manometer is also used for measuring
gasoline and diesel engines must be less than the intake manifold pressure, and it’s likewise
four inches of mercury (1.5 psi) as measured good for testing turbochargers. The manom-
with a manometer. The manometer must be eter works well for testing crankcase pressure
connected (Fig. 16-5) only in a straight sec- too, and the test results are a good indication
tion of pipe at least a foot away from the near- of the cylinder and piston condition. One
est bend in the exhaust plumbing. When there sign of poor piston ring sealing is excessive
is no place to connect the manometer to the blowby of combustion gases past the piston
exhaust system, a small hole may be drilled rings. When the engine crankcase pressure
that is suitable for tapping to a 1/8-inch NPT gets too high, the engine will tend to leak oil.
(National Pipe Tap) pipe fitting size. This High crankcase pressure will also cause the
hole is plugged with a pipe plug after the test. front and rear crankcase seals to fail.
It is not enough to run the engine up to full
speed in neutral to check for back-pressure. PRESSURE-TESTING HEADS
The engine must be used at full power under When cylinder heads are suspected of leaking
sea trial conditions for accurate results. Check coolant, the water jacket is pressure-tested
the exhaust pressure you see against the engine with a pressure gauge that gives readouts
manufacturer’s specs. Note: Because elemental in psi or kilopascals (kPa). This testing can
mercury is so much heavier than water, a manom- be done wet or dry, and there are advan-
eter filled with mercury is capable of measuring tages and disadvantages to each method.
much higher pressures than one filled with water. It can also be done with the work piece at
 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 269

ambient temperature or heated to operating and shapes of plugs are available at plumb-
temperature. ing shops, although special plugs or covers
Before a pressure test can be done, there must often be fabricated. When test fittings
must be access to the internal area of the piece or cover plates are used, they must be suitably
that is to be tested—i.e., a pressure tap. For sealed with pipe dope, O-ring seals, or gasket
example, to do a compression test on a gaso- material.
line engine, the spark plug is removed and a
test gauge fitting is threaded into the spark Hydrostatic Pressure Testing
plug hole. When the piston comes up, the pres- A pressure test with the piece to be tested
sure gauge that is threaded into the spark plug full of water is known as a hydrostatic test
opening registers the pressure in the cylinder. (Fig. 16-7). The enhanced safety of this
When a cylinder head is to be pressure- method is due to the fact that liquids are
tested, there are often over a dozen openings incompressible. What this means is that if
that must be blocked so that the head will the piece under test suddenly ruptures, no
hold pressure, while the pressure source and one is likely to be harmed, because the pres-
the pressure test gauge must be plumbed into sure drops almost instantly.
the water-jacket of the head. You’ll have to Notice that the cylinder head in this
remove the head from the engine. A plate to drawing is totally filled with water. The pres-
block off the water-jacket holes can be fabri- sure source is regulated compressed air, and
cated as shown in Figure 16-6. Various sizes it enters the head from above. The pressure
line between the gauge and the head is filled
with air. For the purpose of this discussion,
Source of Air consider that the volume of the air line plus
Blocking Plate
a thin layer of air in the top of the cylinder
head is one-half cup, and the volume of the
Plate Gasket

Pressure Gauge

One-half
Cylinder Head
Expandable Plug cup of air

Fig. 16-6. To pressure-test a cylinder head, you’ll have to

remove it from the engine. All the openings—
perhaps over a dozen—must be blocked, as done
here with a blocking plate. A pressure gauge is
teed into the compressed-air source, which is Fig. 16-7. Hydrostatic cylinder-head pressure testing uses
tapped into the plate. water and has several advantages over an air test..
270 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

cylinder head being tested is two gallons. air pressure in it. A small stream of bubbles
Let’s say that the pressure on the gauge is 60 will quickly show where the leak is.
psi. If one-half cup of water leaks from the
TESTING HOT
head, this will double the volume of air in the
No matter what type of testing is done, it
system and will also reduce the pressure read-
always works better to pressure-test metal
ing on the gauge by half, bringing it down to
pieces as close to their normal operating tem-
30 psi.
perature as possible. It’s helpful to test cylinder
Therefore, not only is a hydrostatic pres-
heads, for example, at 180°F, the normal oper-
sure test much safer than a straight air test,
ating temperature of a cylinder head. Testing
the pressure gauge reading is many times
hot causes the metal to expand and open even
more responsive than a pressure test per-
very small cracks, thereby making them more
formed only with air. Another advantage of a
detectable. There are several ways to heat the
hydrostatic test is that the work piece can be
water in the head, and one of the best is to
located over a dry area, and every drop result-
attach an automotive (electric) tank heater
ing from leakage will be easy to see.
to recirculating tank-style water through the
PRESSURE TESTING DRY, WITH AIR head, while it’s under pressure. Another good
PRESSURE way is to test a head with air pressure and
Pressure testing only with air (Fig. 16-8) and submerge it into a tank of hot water while it’s
no water at all is far more dangerous than under pressure to check for leaks.
hydrostatic testing, because air is compress-
ible, and if the work piece bursts it will take TESTING LARGE ASSEMBLIES
much longer for the pressure to dissipate. While the discussion so far has centered on
Another disadvantage of straight air testing testing parts of engines, it’s important to note
is that the pressure gauge will be unable to that the water jackets of complete engines can
measure very small leaks. This test does have also be pressure-tested in a fully assembled
the benefit of very quick results when the state.
work piece is submerged in water with high Sealing materials such as gaskets and
O-ring seals are made of materials that are
especially good at containing either high pres-
sures or high temperatures. Take care to use
Testing with a 20 psi source of pressure. the manufacturer’s suggested part number,
and if the instructions say to put an O-ring of
a certain color in a certain position, be sure to
If there is no water in
the head it is called an do it! Often, gaskets must be made at sea for
air pressure test.
doing temporary repairs. At times like these,
pay close attention to the thickness of the
original gasket material, and try to duplicate
that thickness.
Fig. 16-8. Pressure testing using air can be dangerous but is Where O-rings are concerned, there are
quicker than hydrostatic testing. kits available to make new ones by cutting the
 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 271

appropriate diameter of round rubber stock Bore Scope

to length and then gluing the ends together Goes Down
Injector
to form the right seal circumference. When Opening
this is done, try to stay as close as possible to
the original diameter of the O-ring material,
which may be neoprene, Buna-N, or silicone
rubber.
The pressure test of a complete engine Exhaust Intake
cooling system is a hydrostatic test because Port Port

the engine and its cooling system are filled

with coolant. Such a test will reveal the integ-
rity (or lack thereof ) of the cylinder walls,
head gasket, and the cylinder liner seals.
Pressure testing such an engine would con-
sist of first connecting a regulated air pres-
sure line, or hand pump, to a point high up
on the engine and then supplying between
20 and 30 psi to the system, often through
the pressure cap opening.
A pressure test will also indicate the integ-
rity of the cylinder head, the aftercooler core,
and the jacketed exhaust system. The jacketed
exhaust system, if so equipped, may also have Fig. 16-9. A bore scope in use to provide an internal visual
inspection while the cylinder is under pressure
a jacketed turbocharger. (engine not running).
A bore scope (Fig. 16-9) can also be used to
watch for a leaking head gasket, head, or cylin- shops in the late 1800s. Parts to be inspected
der liner while the engine is under pressure. would be immersed in used machine oil. After
immersion, the parts were withdrawn from
LIQUID (DYE) PENETRANT AND the oil and the excess surface oil was wiped
MAGNETIC PARTICLE TESTING off. The surfaces of the parts would then be
Fluorescent penetrant testing and magnetic coated with powdered chalk or a mixture of
particle testing are nondestructive inspection chalk suspended in alcohol (whiting). Oil
methods capable of detecting flaws or defects trapped in cracks or flaws in the metal would
in metal parts with very good accuracy. These bleed out, causing a noticeable stain in the
methods work for many objects that would white chalk coating.
be impossible to check with pressure, such as The oil-and-whiting method was replaced
solid shafts. by magnetic particle inspection on steel and
Liquid penetrant inspection is the first of ferrous (iron) parts in 1930. However, indus-
the modern nondestructive inspection meth- tries using nonferrous metals, such as bronze,
ods. It originated in railroad maintenance aluminum, magnesium, and titanium, needed
272 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

a more reliable and sophisticated tool than the the removal of the penetrant from the part
oil-and-whiting method. In 1941, fluorescent surface. Care must be taken to prevent over
dye materials were added to a penetrating- cleaning and removal of penetrant contained
type oil to make a penetrant material. in the cracks. The third step is the applica-
tion of a material called developer. The devel-
THE BASIC PENETRANT PROCESS
oper acts to draw any trapped penetrant from
Penetrant inspection is a simple, inexpensive,
cracks and improves the visibility of defects,
and reliable way to detect cracks on the surface
as shown in Figure 16-10.
of metal objects. It can be used on metals and
Penetrant materials are available in aerosol
other nonporous materials that are not harmed
spray cans and in small containers that can
by the penetrant oils. The technique will detect
be used on installed parts. A wide variety of
a wide variety of cracks ranging in size from
materials, including ferrous and nonferrous
those readily visible down to the microscopic
metals and alloys, fired ceramics and cermets,
level, as long as the cracks are open to the surface
powdered metal products, glass, and some
and are sufficiently free of foreign material.
types of organic materials can be inspected
The steps in the penetrant process have not
this way.
changed from the oil-and-whiting days. In the
first step, a penetrating liquid containing dyes EFFECTS OF MECHANICAL WORKING
is applied to the surface of a clean part. While Mechanical working, such as machining,
cleaning is not part of the penetrant process, scraping, sanding, sandblasting, shot peening,
it is emphasized because of its effect on the and even steam cleaning, removes soils and
inspection results. Contaminants, such as soils contaminants by physical action. This action
or moisture, either inside the flaw or on the also removes or deforms some of the part’s
part surface at the flaw opening, can reduce the surface. Even a small amount of deforma-
effectiveness of the inspection. The penetrant tion, such as that caused by fine sanding or
is allowed to remain on the part surface for a vapor blasting, will reduce the surface open-
period of time, which is learned by experience, ing of small cracks, resulting in a decrease in
to permit it to enter and fill any openings. the effectiveness of the penetrant inspection
After the immersion time that is sug- process. Severe mechanical working pro-
gested by the instructions, the second step is cesses, such as metal removal, shot peening,

Penetration Excess Removed Development

1. Penetrant Seeps 2. Cleaning Surface Leaves 3. Developer Draws

Into Crack Penetrant In Crack Penetrant from Crack

Fig. 16-10. The basic dye penetrant process.

 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 273

plastic media bead blasting, coarse sanding, in a darkened testing booth the sensitivity of
or grit blasting, can seal or close the surface the eye increases, yielding better results.
openings of large cracks and prevent the for- Low-pressure fluorescent bulbs are simi-
mation of penetrant indications. Penetrant lar to standard fluorescent tubes and are not
inspection must be done prior to mechanical strong enough for use in detecting fluorescent
work processes (Fig. 16-11). indications. High-pressure, mercury-vapor
bulbs are the most common testing sources
LIGHTING FOR FLUORESCENT DYE
for black light. No less than a 100-watt bulb
PENETRANT TESTING
should be used for penetrant inspection,
The eye is not too responsive to black light,
and only after the bulb has warmed up for
especially if visible light is present. However,
at least 15 minutes before the inspection is
performed.
Cross Section of Aluminum Block For safety, black lamp bulbs need filters.
Paint or Rust Cracked, chipped, or ill-fitting filters must be
ENLARGEMENT OF CRACK replaced before using the lamp. High-intensity
Crack can
super black lights that use bulbs with integral
be seen filters must have a splash guard, as supplied
by the manufacturer, attached to the front of
the lamp housing to prevent accidental implo-
sion of the bulb. Prolonged direct exposure of
hands to the main beam of the filtered black
ALUMINUM light may be harmful. White cotton glove liners
or other suitable gloves must be worn to pro-
tect the skin from burns when exposing hands
Cross Section of Aluminum Block to the main light beam.
Paint or Rust Caution: The temperature of some black
ENLARGEMENT OF CRACK lamp bulbs reaches 750°F or more during oper-
Contamination
ation. This is above the ignition or flashpoint of
hides crack fuel vapors. These vapors will burst into flames
if they contact the bulb. Black lights must not
be operated in the presence of flammable vapors.
Extreme care must be exercised to prevent con-
tacting the housing with any part of the body.
ALUMINUM

MAGNAFLUX TESTING (MAGNETIC

PARTICLE INSPECTION)
Fig. 16-11. Effects of mechanical working. In the top As mentioned above, cracks can exist even in
drawing, the crack is evident by its raised, sharp newly smelted metals, can form during fabri-
edges. In the bottom drawing, after sanding or
sandblasting, those edges are gone, and the cation of parts, or can appear as fatigue cracks
crack is filled in and may be invisible. or cracks due to excessive service stresses. Not
274 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

all cracks are considered defects. However, if

the crack prevents usefulness of the parts, it
is a defect. Magnetic particle inspection can
often locate cracks in ferromagnetic material.
N S
Magnetic particle inspection is another nonde-
structive method for revealing surface and near
subsurface cracks in parts made of magnetic
materials. The process consists of three steps:
BAR MAGNET

1. Application of magnetic particles

2. Establishment of a suitable magnetic Fig. 16-12. Magnetic flux lines.
field
3. Examination and evaluation of particle MAGNETIC ATTRACTION
accumulations The concept of flux lines includes flow, distri-
bution, directional, and attraction-repulsion
If the part to be inspected is made from an properties. Each flux line is considered to
alloy containing a high percentage of iron and be a continuous loop, which is never broken
can be magnetized, it is in a class of metals but must complete itself through some path.
called ferromagnetic and can be inspected by The flux lines always leave a magnet at right
this method. If the part is made of nonmag- angles to the surface. They always seek the
netic material, it cannot be inspected by this path of lowest reluctance (opposition to the
method. The magnetic particle inspection establishment of magnetic flux) in complet-
method will detect surface cracks, including ing their loop. When a piece of soft iron is
those that are too fine to be seen with the placed in a magnetic field, it will be drawn
naked eye, those that lie slightly below the toward the magnetic source. This is the action
surface, and, when special equipment is used, that causes magnetic particles to concentrate
more deeply seated cracks. at leakage fields at cracks. Since the magnetic
particles offer a lower reluctance path to the
ELECTRICITY AND MAGNETISM flux lines, they are therefore drawn to the
Electricity is used to cause magnetic fields in crack and bridge the air gap (Fig. 16-12).
parts made of magnetic materials. Magnetic
lines of force are always aligned at right angles EFFECTS OF FLUX DIRECTION
to the direction of electric current flow. Since The magnetic field must be in a favorable
it is possible to control the direction of the direction to produce indications. When the
magnetic field by controlling the direction flux lines are oriented parallel to a crack, the
of the magnetizing current, it is important indication will be weak or lacking. The best
to know how to use electricity to induce the results are obtained when the flux lines cross
magnetic lines of force so that they intercept a crack at right angles. If a crack is to pro-
and are as near as possible to right angles to duce a leakage field and a readable magnetic
the defect or crack. particle indication, it must intercept the flux
 DETECTION OF CRACKS, LEAKS, AND OTHER DEFECTS IN VITAL PARTS 275

lines of force at some angle. When an elec-

trical magnetizing current is used, the best
indications are produced when the path of S N
the magnetizing current is flowing parallel to
the crack because the magnetic flux lines are
A
always at right angles to the flow of magnetiz-
ing current (Fig. 16-13).
While stationary magnetic crack detection S N S N
equipment is common in large shops, portable
equipment is often used on board boats and
works well for examining small areas in large CRACK B
components, such as cylinder heads, blocks, LINES OF FORCE

and crankshafts. Handheld electromagnetic

probe yokes are U-shaped cores of soft iron Fig. 16-13. Cracks alter the lines of force. Finely ground
iron particles are sprinkled on the steel or iron
with a coil wound around the base of the U. surface to be tested. When a handheld Magnaflux
When alternating current or rectified alter- unit is laid on the surface and activated, the
nating current is passing through the coil, particles align themselves with the magnetic flux
the two ends of the core are magnetized with lines, and any cracks running across those lines
will show as distortions in the particle alignments.
opposite polarity.
 CHAPTER 17
SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT

Proper alignment of propeller shafts and engine and transmission assembly is aligned
engines ensures that the vessel will run to the shaft. Caution: Be sure to disable the
smoothly under power, prolongs the life of starter motor before doing any of the work
the equipment, and contributes to the safety described in this chapter!
of the crew. The shaft and engine need to work Unlike land-based heavy machinery
together and must be in perfect harmony. mounted on thick concrete, marine propul-
Engine power is transferred from the rear sion systems are designed to take consider-
of the transmission, through the shaft cou- able twisting and flexing of their platform
plings, intermediate shaft, bearings, stuffing (the boat) and keep on working. As they are
box, rear shaft, the stern bearing, and finally hauled out and blocked for repairs, boats are
the propeller. Note: Not all boats have interme-
subject to bending and twisting. In addition,
diate and rear shafts; these are more typical of
thermal expansion and contraction occur due
large motoryachts and commercial fishing boats. to temperature changes of the water and air,
At times, alignment of the shaft and engine internal heat sources, and uneven heating
will need adjusting. There is a specific order when one side of a vessel is in sunlight and
that must be followed if the job is to be done the other is in shade. These fluctuations will
right, and there are three important factors change the stresses in the hull and the shafting
to consider when the boat is in the water and and thereby slightly change shaft alignment.
loaded to normal running weight: Weather and sea conditions always require
the hull and the shafting to bend and flex as
1. The bores of all shaft bearings and the the vessel moves through the water. Marine
stuffing box must all be aligned within propulsion systems routinely operate in
the tolerances specified by the bearing conditions that land-based machinery, such
manufacturers. as stationary diesel generators, would only
2. Propeller shafts must be centered encounter during a severe earthquake.
within the shaft bearings and the stuff- Sailboat shafts and engine alignment are
ing box. fairly stable because of the low power ratings
3. Only after the above two conditions at which they operate. High-performance
have been met can the engine and trans- yachts and workboats are designed with
mission assembly be aligned to the shaft. fairly light and flexible hull structures, and
often the shafts run at high speeds. Fishing
To summarize, the shaft is first aligned boats or freighters differ from other boats
to the boat, and after this work is done, the because they are heavy on the ends when
276
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 277

empty, but, when loaded, they are heavy in rear of boat

front of boat
the middle.
When properly designed, built, and main- (one bend at rear of shaft)
tained, shafts and supporting bearings will
last and be relatively free of vibration in any
application. As we’ll see, there are low levels (one bend at front of shaft)
of normal vibration, and then there are severe
vibrations. It’s the variation from the norm
that tips off the troubleshooter. (one bend in middle of shaft)

FINDING THE SOURCE OF VIBRATION

When vibrations become noticeable due to a
(two bends in shaft)
change in intensity, alignment checks are in
order. Increasing levels of vibration foretell of
mechanical damage to the system.
To begin looking for shaft and align- (three bends in shaft)
ment problems, remove all covers and access
hatches so that the shaft can be observed Fig. 17-1. Shafts can have simple or compound bends.
with the transmission engaged. We’ll be
watching for an obvious wobble of the shaft and reinstalled, a complete alignment will be
as it turns and for hot pillow block bearings, required. If the vibrations are due to misalign-
which are sometimes found on motoryachts ment rather than physical damage such as a
and are often found on commercial vessels. bent shaft, bent propeller, or failed shaft bear-
Note: There are many ways a shaft can bend ing, see the discussion below.
(Fig.17-1). Caution: Be very careful not to get Every part of a propulsion system has a
your clothing or limbs caught in the shaft mecha- working tolerance, an allowable degree of
nism while watching the shaft! imperfection, which permits the new part’s
As the shaft turns, a 0.020-inch (20 thou- specifications to vary a small amount from
sandths of an inch) bend or wobble in the the specifications of a perfect or ideal part.
shaft is easy to spot visually. The surface of When checking the alignment of equipment,
the shaft can be cleaned with a belt of abra- the working tolerance will keep coming up,
sive emery cloth and a dial indicator set up to and it’s important to keep on the low side
verify the visual observations. (A dial indica- whenever possible to achieve the best results.
tor has a spring-loaded plunger connected to The final alignment procedures must be done
a dial at one end. The other end has a clamp or with the boat in the water.
a magnetic base for mounting. The device is As we describe the process, it will be easy
mounted with the plunger resting on the shaft. to see why most boats aren’t aligned as well as
See also Fig. 17-8.) After finding a severe they could be. The shaft and engine alignment
bend or wobble, the next thing to do is remove of a boat is often a functional compromise that
the bent shaft. After the shaft is straightened lets the boat keep operating with a minimum
278 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

of wear and vibration. However, we’ll cover the front of the shaft is so much easier to
the ideal way to align the equipment. check than the rear. Because there are many
When vibration is a problem, the propel- shafting configurations, this discussion will
ler must be inspected to spot any damage. A cover a long shafting system with an interme-
propeller can look great yet have a slightly diate shaft, even though many boats have no
bent or out-of-pitch blade. This will cause intermediate shaft.
vibration. Furthermore, the stern (Cutless) 8. The transmission output shaft bearings
bearing must be tight enough to control shaft control fore-and-aft, up-and-down, and side-
movement according to specifications pub- to-side movement of the shaft. The trans-
lished by the stern bearing manufacturer. mission’s shaft coupling must be tight on the
output shaft. When oil leaks from the rear
ALIGNMENT BY THE NUMBERS of the transmission, it comes from the inside
Using the reference numbers in Figure 17-3, through the lip-type output shaft seal, or past
we will start with eight and count down to the output shaft splines in the output shaft
the rear of the boat, covering the basic checks coupling. When there is a vibration in this
that must be made to identify a problem area, check to ensure that the transmission’s
that causes vibration. We will do it this way rear coupling is tight on its shaft and that the
because the forward end of the shaft is where face of the transmission coupling runs true
people normally start looking, mainly because when checked with a dial indicator.

FOR THE WORKBOAT

The Kink at the End of the Shaft

By 2:30 a.m. we had been through the shaft alignment tests several times to verify the results, and
it was clear that the boat’s intermediate shaft was badly bent at the rear end, only two inches from the
coupling. The skipper, Len, had been sitting with me for hours in the engine room bilge, just behind the
transmission, helping to turn the shaft and writing down my readings.
We were tired but happy to have found the source of the boat’s terrible vibration. All that was left
was to take the shaft to the machine shop and have it straightened. Making the opening of the halibut
season would be close, with less than twenty-four hours left to go. But it was likely we’d have it ready
in time, depending on how fast the machine shop could straighten the shaft.
The next morning, after a short night, I awakened to a call from a very angry boatowner. They had
been able to get the machinist to chuck the intermediate shaft in his lathe, and it ran perfectly true
(Fig. 17-2). I assured him my findings were right-on and headed for the machine shop. It’s important
to note that this machinist was very well trained and highly competent; he had been a machinist in
the navy.
To my surprise, when the machinist rolled the shaft, the dial indicator needle remained still. There
was no sign of the plus thirty-thousandths readings we were getting down on the boat the night before.
The skipper was also in hot water with the owner for letting a “little vibration” worry him. Standing in
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 279

the machine shop, with the crowd who had gathered to watch the fireworks, I was baffled as to why my
readings at the boat were so different!

A .002" indicator reading

six inches from the lathe
chuck will cause as shaft
Notice Gap at wobble of .040" at the far
Top of Chuck end of a ten-foot shaft,
but it will only be
apparent in the boat.

Lathe
Chuck

The weight of the far end of

the shaft and the fact that it is
held securely by the lathe’s
live center will cause the
chucked end of the shaft to
overpower the chuck jaws
Propeller Shaft
and rock back and forth.
Coupling
This will hide the severe
nature of the bend in the shaft
Chuck Jaws unless the machinist checks
between the chuck and the
face of the shaft coupling.

Fig. 17-2. A kink at the end of a shaft.

It wasn’t until a few months later that I happened to carry something back to the same machinist.
As I looked at his lathe, it dawned on me that I should have had him swap the shaft end for end and
recheck it.
Because the bend was so close to the end of the shaft, I saw that he must have installed the bent
end of the shaft in the chuck. The straight end of the shaft was held by the point of the live center as
shown in the accompanying drawing, which made it seem as though the shaft ran true. The shaft was
so heavy that even a new chuck in a new lathe would have allowed the kinked end to slip inside of the
jaws as the shaft rotated.
280 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

8 the dial indicator after separating (splitting)

7 the couplings and using a dial indicator on the
face, while turning the shaft. Shaft couplings
Angular Parallel
Misalignment Offset come in male and female configurations. It is
6 this pilot and pocket system that keeps the
couplings concentric with one another. The
5 coupling faces and the pilot and pocket must
be free of burrs (Fig. 17-4). There must be a
No No snug hand-tight fit between the pilot and the
pocket in the couplings. The final alignment
7
must cause the coupling faces to be parallel
4 and with no offset.
3 Propulsion coupling bolts are normally
Grade 5, as specified by the Society of
2
Automotive Engineers (SAE), and need not
1 be Grade 8 unless these better bolts have
been specified by the boatbuilder. Remember,
Fig. 17-3. Shafting checks by the numbers. (1) propeller; the shanks of these coupling bolts will never
(2) stern bearing (also called Cutless bearing); be in shear unless the nuts are left loose. The
(3) tail shaft, if so equipped; (4) stuffing box; only job of the coupling bolts is to create
(5) intermediate pillow-block bearing, if so
equipped; (6) shaft or intermediate shaft;
intense friction between the coupling faces. It
(7) couplings; (8) transmission. is friction that transfers the engine’s power to
the next coupling, and finally to the propeller,
7. The shaft couplings must be tight on the and not the shank of the bolt.
shaft, and the faces of the couplings must Fine-thread bolts with self-locking nuts are
be flat and true with the shaft to ensure often used instead of coarse threads in this loca-
that the shaft will run true when turning. tion. For ease of removal in the future, point
The ultimate test to determine whether the the threaded end of the front coupling bolts to
coupling is running true with the shaft is in the rear of the boat. Also, point the bolts in the
a lathe after the shaft has been verified to be rear coupling of the intermediate shaft with
straight. However, a skilled marine mechanic the threaded end pointing forward. This makes
can check the trueness of the coupling to the it easy to put a coat of Anti-Seez compound
shaft by first turning the shaft with a dial on the bolt threads before the self-locking nuts
indicator set up on clean places along the are installed. After appying a liberal coat of
length of the shaft. Clean places are made by marine grade anti-seizing compound, the nuts
using belts of abrasive and running it all the are tightened to specifications.
way around the shaft to remove rust before 6. The intermediate shaft has to be straight
setting up the dial indicator. (Fig. 17-5). Most often this shaft, being
After the shaft is verified to be within tol- somewhat protected from the elements by the
erance, the coupling faces can be checked with shaft alley, is steel rather than stainless steel.
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 281

Pilot and Pocket

Front Coupling Male Female

(Consists of Male Shaft Shaft
and Female Halves) Coupling Coupling

Marine
Transmission

Pillow-Block Shaft Stuffing-

Grease Line Box Seal

Cutless
Bearing

Rear
Coupling

Fig. 17-4. The pilot and pocket arrangement of a shaft coupling.

The reason for this is that a bronze, stainless and not too low, in relation to the other fixed
steel, or monel intermediate shaft represents points of shaft support. The bearing cap must
a needless expense since the intermediate be shimmed to allow clearance for grease on
shaft is protected from salt water. top of the shaft under the cap. Molydisulfide
Unfortunately, this shaft can be destroyed grease is a superior lubricant for such appli-
in short order by lack of lubrication, such as cations and is the lubricant of choice among
after the grease line to the pillow block bear- professional mechanics.
ing breaks! The intermediate shaft can also Pillow-block bearings come new with
degenerate if it is exposed to salt water. extra paper shims installed between the cap
5. When well lubricated, the pillow block and the bearing’s body. This allows for the
bearing is made to carry a heavy, slow-turning removal of shims in those instances when
shaft for many years. To do so it has to be there is some wear on the shaft and bearing-
installed at the right height, not too high to-shaft clearance is too great.
282 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

Stuffing Box be done after alignment work or any other

Tail Shaft
major repair. It is during the sea trial that the
boat is checked for vibrations and heat at the
Rear Coupling bearings and stuffing box.
Rear Pillow Block 4. The stuffing box provides a means of con-
trolling water flow past the same packing
that keeps water out of the boat. The water
flow through the stuffing box lubricates the
packing inside and prevents accelerated wear
Intermediate Shaft
of the propeller shaft. There is often a grease
Front Pillow Block fitting on the stuffing box.
On workboats, the crew can use this grease
Engine fitting to their advantage when they arrive in
town and can’t wait to get off the boat for a few
hours. To stop the stuffing box from leaking for
a little while, they may grease the stuffing box
Fig. 17-5. The contents of a shaft alley. fitting, and this stops water from leaking past
the packing until the shaft turns again. This
keeps the bilge from filling quickly with water.
Each bearing manufacturer has its own The only alternative for temporarily stop-
guidelines for bearing clearance, which is ping stuffing box leakage is to tighten the
based mainly on shaft diameter. Pillow block adjusting bolts (or packing nut) on the stuff-
bearings have a grease fitting installed to ing box until the water stops dripping. If this
enable greasing with a grease gun. They can is done, the same adjustment must be loos-
also be plumbed to allow remote greasing ened before the shaft starts turning again. The
to take place from the engine room. Remote rate of water dripping must be several drops
greasing is more convenient and easier on the a minute, or damage to the shaft and stuffing
crew. The drawback to remote greasing is that box will follow. The area where the stuffing
you don’t know for sure that the grease is get- box is fastened to the rear of the shaft alley
ting to the bearing without a visual inspec- must be well sealed against leaks (Fig. 17-6).
tion. Unfortunately, many boats use copper There is either a gasket in this area or a dura-
tubing as their grease lines to the pillow block ble sealant.
bearings. It is better to use high-pressure 3. The rear shaft is made of either bronze
hydraulic hoses that are made to length before or stainless steel alloy for corrosion resis-
installation. tance. On recreational boats with only one
While it is normal for pillow blocks to run shaft, the same material is used. Note: Watch
warm, even as hot as 170°F, cooler is always for cracking at the end of the shaft keyway dur-
better. A noncontact infrared thermometer ing propeller sevice.
works well for monitoring bearing tempera- 2. The rearmost support for the wet end of
ture, especially during the sea trial that must the shaft is the stern tube (Cutless) bearing
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 283

Stuffing Box Follow the Bearing

Gasket Manufacturer’s
Recommendations
Dial Indicator

Pry Upward on
Bottom of Wheel

Packing Fig. 17-8. Checking the stern bearing clearance.

bearing material must remain attached to the

Fig. 17-6. The stuffing box shaft seal.
bearing’s outer bronze sleeve.
The stern bearing can be checked under-
(Fig. 17-7). The stern bearing is lubricated water by an experienced diver. To do so, the
by water, and it has an ideal range of clearance diver pries between the rudder shoe and the
that is specified by the manufacturer. The propeller to lift the shaft while observing
clearance must be small enough to control shaft movement in the bearing. When the
shaft movement, but great enough to allow boat is on the hard, the actual bearing clear-
water flow through the bearing. It is the stuff- ance can be measured with a dial indicator
ing box packing adjustment that controls the (Fig. 17-8).
flow of lubricating water through the stern 1. Les Christensen of Kodiak Metals,
bearing. The stern bearing’s inner rubber Kodiak, Alaska, told us that propellers
must be installed in such a way that the
key is not binding between the keyway and
the propeller (Fig. 17-9). With the key in a
1 bind, the propeller cannot advance fully onto
The stern tube contains the Cutless bearing.
Line of sight forward through stern tube
must center directly in the middle of the
transmission output shaft.
Engine
2

The eventual outcome is that the rear

surface of the output shaft flange, of the
90° Yes!
reduction gear, is as close as possible
to being at an angle of 90 degrees This:
to the center of the stern tube.
3 Mark with
pencil here
Not This:

The intermediate shaft must

follow the center of the stern No!
tube all the way to the tranny’s
output shaft flange.
4
Intermediate Shaft

Fig. 17-7. The stern tube points to the engine’s best position. Fig. 17-9. Precautions for propeller installation.
284 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

the tapered shaft. This causes two problems: Cut the Ax Head Like This and
Then Bevel the Curve to Fit the
(1) the prop is thrown off-center, and (2) the Radius of the Couplings
plane of center of the blades is no longer
perpendicular to the shaft. Not only will
it vibrate, but it may well come loose as it
runs. When this happens, the propeller
may fall off.
The best way to install a propeller is to
slide it on the shaft without the key in the
keyway and put a mark on the shaft at that
point, showing that the propeller is all the Remove Old Wooden
Handle
way on the shaft. When the propeller is
installed with the key in place, it’s obvious Weld Steel Pipe Handle Onto Ax Head
that the key is in a bind if the propeller won’t
slide all the way up to the mark.
Fig. 17-10. To fashion a flange ax for separating stubborn
shaft couplings, remove the wooden handle from
STARTING AT THE REAR a standard ax, cut its blade from a convex to a
When a vibration seems to be related to the concave curve as shown, bevel the newly shaped
shaft or alignment, the crew will normally blade, and weld a steel pipe to the flat of the ax
head to use as a handle.
unbolt the couplings behind the engine and
transmission and check there first for obvi-
ous misalignment. Sometimes the crew finds
it there. If, when the shaft is pulled back from (Fig. 17-10) to part them. Not a store-bought
the coupling pilot, it springs into some other item, the flange ax must be fabricated from an
position, you have found a bent shaft or an ax head.
obvious alignment problem, but you do not To repeat: The final outcome of an engine
yet know where the problem is. alignment cannot be certain unless the shaft
At first it might seem that the answer is alignment is first verified by starting at the rear
to loosen the engine mount bolts and slide of the boat. Notice again that engine alignment
the engine around so that it lines up with the and shaft alignment are two completely differ-
shaft. However, this seldom works. When ent things. Now, before starting the alignment
the shaft springs away from the transmission check at the rear of the boat, it’s important to
coupling, it indicates there is a problem, but note that the method varies slightly for boats
the cause of the problem cannot be tracked with steep shaft angles (Fig. 17-11).
down unless the alignment check starts at the When the angle of the shaft is steep and
back of the boat. The shaft may be straight or the coupling bolts are removed, the tail shaft
it may be bent, but the only way to know for tends to slide rearward as it is turned to per-
sure is to start at the back of the boat. form the necessary checks. This makes it very
When couplings are unbolted and still difficult to get consistent readings with a
won’t come apart, it helps to use a flange ax feeler gauge or a dial indicator. For boats with
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 285

House in the Middle alignment checks are being made. Note: This
method also depends on the front coupling of
Shaft Angle Minimized the intermediate shaft remaining connected
to the transmission output shaft coupling.
Mark and number four points on each cou-
House Aft:
pling half, equally spaced around the perime-
Short Intermediate Shaft ter. Measure the gap at each point with a dial
caliper. (Note: It is normal for the gap to be
0.001 or 0.002 inch larger at the top of the
coupling.) Next rotate the shafts, together,
one-half turn and measure again. If the gap is
Fig. 17-11. A steeply angled shaft (bottom) requires a consistent at top, bottom, port, and starboard
somewhat different approach to alignment. See before and after the half rotation, all is well.
Figure 17-12.
If not, either the tail shaft or the intermediate
a steep angle, fabricate the fixtures shown in shaft needs to be straightened. Note: If you
Figure 17-12 to set up the rear couplings. can’t get consistent readings due to rocking and
This tooling system keeps the rear shaft rolling of the boat in the water, chances are the
from sliding toward the rear of the boat while Cutless bearing needs to be replaced before you

Placing a large
ball bearing in two
Take Precise opposing bolt-
Measurements holes keeps the
Stuffing Here
Hose Clamp shafts evenly
Box
Holds Pipe spaced and
Halves turning
together.

Front of
Tail Shaft Rear of Intermediate Shaft

Keeping spring
tension on the
ball bearing
allows precise
measurement.
Two halves of steel
pipe cut to make a
spacer.

Fig. 17-12. Alignment tooling for use with steep shaft angles. A spacer is cut from two halves of steel
pipe, long enough to permit a gap of about ¾ inch between the coupling halves when
placed over the tail shaft. Take out the coupling bolts, let the tail shaft slide back far
enough to open up the coupling, insert a steel ball bearing as shown, then take up on a
spring-loaded bolt as shown to stabilize the coupling with a ¾-inch gap.
286 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

can complete the alignment. Finally, note that a 13. The rear pillow-block bearing is in good
wider gap port or starboard is your clue that the shape (within specifications), has a way
engine and transmission will need to be moved of getting lubrication, and has been get-
port or starboard by adjusting engine mounts. ting lubrication.
ORDER OF ALIGNMENT OPERATIONS
Continue with the steps below.
To do a thorough check of the alignment of a
shaft and engine, follow these steps, starting 14. If the rear of the intermediate shaft
at the rear of the boat. Verify the following: needs adjustment up or down or side-
to-side, do so now. This is done by loos-
1. The propeller retaining nut is tight.
ening the pillow block bolts and sliding
2. The propeller key is properly positioned
the bearing left or right, by shimming
in its keyway.
the bearing to raise it, or by removing
3. The propeller is advanced all the way
shims to lower the bearing. The forward
into the tail shaft taper.
pillow block bearing may also need to be
4. The propeller blades are undamaged,
moved to accomplish this change.
all blades are pitched the same, and
15. Moving forward, check the forward pil-
the radial centerline of each is equally
low block bearing just like you checked
spaced with the others around the hub.
the rear one, and make changes as needed.
5. The rear and front ends of the tail shaft
16. Continue by removing the droop (see
are straight.
page 288) in the shaft, and then you will
6. The stern bearing is tight and secure
know where the engine goes and which
in its bore (not turning with the shaft),
way to point it.
and there is no excess clearance between
17. After verifying that things at the wet
the shaft and bearing, according to the
end of the shaft (propeller and rear of
bearing manufacturer’s specifications.
tail shaft) are all right, the shaft align-
7. The area of the tail shaft upon which
ment process starts with loosening the
the stuffing box packing resides is not
rear coupling bolts. Loosen the bolts
excessively worn.
just enough to see if the coupling flanges
8. The tail shaft coupling is tight on the
spring apart on the top, the bottom, or
shaft, and the face is flat. Dress the cou-
on either side. If the couplings do spring
pling faces with a file to make them flat
apart, then this gap must be measured
if necessary.
with a feeler gauge (see below).
9. The rear intermediate shaft coupling is
tight on the shaft. Also, file the face of WATCH THE CLOCK
this coupling as needed. Upon loosening the bolts, any gap that does
11. The rear of the intermediate shaft is open up must be referenced to a clock face
straight. (Fig. 17-13). Is the opening at 12 o’clock or is
12. These two couplings are aligned to one it at 3 o’clock? At the end of the alignment pro-
another within specifications. cess, when the eventual engine position is right,
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 287

12 o’clock wrench or a pipe wrench on the shaft with

9 3 a leather welding glove between the turning
Top of coupling 6 tool and the shaft. Turn the shaft one-quarter
is 12 o’clock turn in either direction and measure the gap
again. If the widest gap moves with the turn-
ing, then it is time to suspect that the shaft is
bent. When the shaft is straight, the widest
opening will stay at the same “clock” position
where you first found it.
Note: As the shaft is turned, it may slide
apart due to the loose bolts. This may result in
a gap opening all the way around the coupling
faces. This is not a problem unless the pilot and
pocket in the coupling disengage with each other.
Fig. 17-13. Clock terminology for describing shaft position.
You can still stack up feeler gauges and calculate
the difference between the widest gap and the
narrowest gap.
there must be a slight opening at 12 o’clock (on After turning the shaft and finding that
top) on all shaft couplings. the opening moves, it is time to learn which
For workboats and fishing boats with slow shaft is bent, either the intermediate or rear
turning shafts, a maximum opening between one. To do this, turn one shaft at a time while
couplings of 0.001 inch per inch of coupling keeping the other from turning. For example,
face diameter is allowable. For example, the if turning the rear shaft causes the opening
opening between the faces of 8-inch couplings to move, then the rear shaft is bent. If how-
would be a maximum of 0.008 inch. For a ever, holding the rear shaft still and turning
high-speed motoryacht, a maximum of half the front shaft causes the opening to move,
the workboat specifications, or 0.0005 inch then the front shaft is bent. Often, however,
per inch of coupling diameter, is required. the opening between couplings will move
Alignment specialists like to see a slight just slightly, indicating a slight bend. At this
opening straight up at the 12 o’clock posi- point, the mechanic will need to determine
tion on all couplings. The reasoning is that how much of a compromise in straightness
when the boat is loaded, the shaft coupling the equipment can handle and if one or both
alignment would only improve as the boat shafts must be removed from the boat.
flexes and the keel drops slightly. If, however,
there is an excessive opening at 12 o’clock, or THE COUPLING’S PILOT
any other position, it is time to check for a If you have loosened the coupling bolts and
bent shaft or an engine that is in the wrong found an excessive opening on the port side
position. of the coupling that does not move or change
To do so, mark the place where the open- when the shaft is rotated, then your shafts
ing is and rotate the shaft by putting a chain are straight, but the intermediate shaft is
288 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

pointing too far to the starboard side. At this

point, the rear shaft must be moved back
slightly to allow the two couplings to move
apart until they are no longer engaged in the
pilot or pocket (shown above in Fig. 17-4) of
the couplings. Fifty-Pound
When the couplings slide apart, the inter- Capacity Scale

mediate shaft may spring to one side or the

other, as well as either up or down. Only one
thing decides the position of the intermediate
shaft, and that is the direction that the tail Rope, Chain,
or Sling
shaft points. The boltholes in the base of the Ratchet Hoist

pillow block bearing are slotted to allow left- Pillow-Block

Coupling
Bearing
and right-hand movement of the bearing.

REMOVING SHAFT DROOP

Shaft droop is the distance that the unsup- Fig. 17-14. Weigh the unsupported shaft and coupling.
ported shaft hangs down when it is discon-
nected from the transmission output shaft unsupported weight of the shaft and coupling
coupling. The engine can be aligned only registers on the scale. The droop has now been
after shaft droop is eliminated by one of two eliminated by this method.
methods.
Note: Droop is normally only a problem at Method Two: This method is done with-
the front of the intermediate shaft because the out a scale and instead uses a dial indicator
unsupported span is so great, much greater than (Fig. 17-15) mounted on the pillow block
the unsupported span between the pillow block bearing. First, zero the dial indicator. Next,
bearing and the rear shaft coupling. attach the hoist to the shaft coupling and take
up until the dial indicator reads upward shaft
Method One: Determine (from tables) the movement of 0.001 inch. This is the shaft
weight (per inch) of the unsupported shaft and height that the engine must be aligned to.
also the weight of the coupling. Add these sums
together, because this is the weight that is hang- ALIGNING THE ENGINE
ing on the pillow bearing. (Example: The shaft After the droop has been eliminated, it is
weighs 2 pounds per inch and the pillow block is time to align the engine. Aligning the engine
50 inches aft. Therefore the unsupported shaft really means aligning the engine and transmis-
weight is 100 pounds. The coupling weighs 10 sion assembly to the shaft, because the trans-
pounds, so the total unsupported weight is 110 mission is attached to the engine. Since these
pounds.) Then hang a weight scale on the bot- two are bolted to each other, they will move
tom of a ratchet hoist and zero the scale (Fig. as a unit as you take the following steps. The
17-14). Next, take up on the hoist until the following instructions rely on the couplings
 SHAFT AND ENGINE ALIGNMENT 289

the front coupling to the rear that will tell us

which way to move the engine.
If there is a parallel offset in any direc-
tion, both ends of the engine must be moved
to eliminate it. On the other hand, if there
is angular misalignment, then only one end
Ratcheting Hoist
of the engine will be moved to eliminate the
problem. Once the engine is moved into posi-
tion and the couplings are lined up within
specifications, the engine can be bolted down.
Dial Indicator
The coupling bolts are installed and tight-
ened only after the alignment is verified with
a feeler gauge.
Pillow-Block The final alignment of the shaft couplings
Bearing is done with the boat having been in the water
overnight. This time frame is enough to let
Fig. 17-15. Removing the shaft droop with a dial indicator.
the keel settle into its normal position. When
you check the openings between shaft cou-
being close enough to touch. The two cou- plings with a feeler gauge, you should find no
plings will be aligned to each other. gap larger than 0.0005 inch per inch of cou-
With the shaft supported in the no-droop pling diameter. For example, a pair of 6-inch
position, and the shaft pulled forward and couplings (in a high-speed shafting system)
the two couplings touching, check the posi- should have a clearance between them at 12
tion of the transmission coupling to the shaft o’clock of no more than 0.003 inch.
coupling. It is the orientation (Fig. 17-16) of Lubricate the bearings and confirm visu-
ally that grease is coming out from under the
bearing cap at the front and rear of the cap.
Parallel offset
After lubricating the pillow block bearings, it
is time to align any power-take-offs (PTO)
that are ahead of the engine. Of course, a
PTO must be aligned in a way that is consis-
tent with the methods we’ve covered so far. If
all is well, the boat is ready for a sea trial.
Angular misalignment

THE SEA TRIAL

When running the boat to check it after the
alignment, you’ll be watching for heat and
vibration. An infrared thermometer is great
for quickly monitoring the heat of several
Fig. 17-16. Coupling misalignment. points as the sea trial commences, and for
290 PART 3: THE RESOURCEFUL BOAT MECHANIC

checking bearing heat after the repairs and Hot

Spot
during the sea trial.
Check the tightness of the intermediate
bearing by slipping the feeler gauge between
the top of the shaft and the bearing cap. The
bearing manufacturer publishes specifica-
tions for intermediate bearing clearance. If
Hot
the clearance is too large, the grease will come Spot
out at the ends of the bearing cap rather than Install
wedge
traveling around with the shaft. To reduce the here
bearing cap clearance, remove shims from the
stack of shims under the cap until the clear-
ance is within specifications. Fig. 17-17. Shimming under a pillow block to eliminate hot
While the feeler gauge is available, see if spots. In this example the bearing is binding the
shaft slightly at the hot spots. Installing a shim as
it will slide in at the front or back beneath shown will eliminate this binding.
the shaft. If the feeler gauge slips in under the
shaft, then the intermediate bearing is tilted.
Tilted bearings don’t distribute the weight of Note: Shimming under the bearing as
the shaft evenly on the bottom of the bearing. shown will lift the whole bearing and the shaft.
Uneven weight distribution will cause either Therefore, if a wedge shim must be used, then a
the front or rear of a pillow-block bearing thin shim may have to be removed from under
to overheat, because one small area of the the whole bearing.
bearing surface is carrying too much of the The last step of the alignment process is to
load. Shimming (Fig. 17-17) with a wedge go back over every bolt in the system to verify
as shown will help distribute the load all the that all fasteners are tight before replacing all
way across the lower bearing surface. inspection covers.
 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS

FRACTION, DECIMAL, AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS

291
292 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS

INCHES TO MILLIMETERS CONVERSION TABLE

TORQUE CONVERSION TABLE, POUND FEET TO NEWTON METERS

 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS 293

FEET TO METERS CONVERSION TABLE

294 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS

METERS TO FEET CONVERSION TABLE INCHES TO CENTIMETERS CONVERSION

TABLE
 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS 295

DEGREES FAHRENHEIT TO DEGREES CELSIUS/CENTIGRADE CONVERSION TABLE

296 TABLES AND CONVERSIONS

COMPARATIVE SHEET-METAL THICKNESSES

EQUIVALENCIES
 INDEX

Numbers in bold indicate pages with illustrations

acetylene torch, 78 anti-seize (also Anti-Seez and Never- belts (Cont.):
actuator, 81, 83–85, 84, 86, 112 Seez) compound, 143, 144, tension on, 53–54, 135, 142, 159,
Advanced Marine Electrics and 280 189, 195, 196, 227, 230
Electronics Troubleshooting autopilots, 114 throwing rubber, 53, 54, 235,
(Sherman), 79 236
aftercooler, 38, 41–42, 43 backfiring, 193, 208, 228 wear on, 204
air, pressure testing with, 270 banjo fittings, 27–28, 213, 217–18 wear on edge of, 155
air-cooled engines, 33, 34 barrier de-coupler, 102 Bendix, 137, 159, 165, 206, 208
air filters, 35, 65, 66, 126, 128, 133, barring over an engine, 36–37, bilge
150 137–38, 156–57, 176 coolant leak into, 222
air intake. See intake air plumbing batteries odors from, 238, 239
system charging, 136 oil in, 176
alarms and shutdown systems, 79, 81, cleaning, 91, 157, 158 water in, 150, 219
83–88 disconnecting during engine repairs, bilge pump, 8, 14, 238, 239
Alaska Diesel Service, 93 94–95 bilge pump switches, 8
alternating current (AC) electrical dissimilar, 6 black lights, 273
system electrolyte level, checking, 6, 237 blow-by gases, 141, 177, 217, 268
brownouts, 235–36 jumping, 136 boatowner’s checklist, 3–10
burning odors from, 198, 231, 240 maintenance of, 91 Boatowner’s Illustrated Electrical
circuit breakers, tripped, 194 overcharging, 136, 231, 234–35 Manual (Wing), 79
electrical panel, 6 posts, 92, 235 Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical
frequency meter and rate, 194–95 safety issues, 196 Manual (Calder), 79
resources for information about, starting problems and, 135, 146 bollard pull, 73
79 sulfur odor, 198, 231, 234–35 bolts. See fasteners and fittings
safety issues, 6, 79 testing, 91, 135 bore scope, 130, 271
alternator voltage readings, 195–96, 237 bow thruster, 177
battery selector switches and, 6 warming, 139 brass engine components, 171,
belts, 53, 54–55, 77, 135, 142, battery cables, 6, 7, 197, 230 214
159, 189, 195, 196, 227, battery chargers, 6 brass gate valve, 67
230, 235 battery selector switches, 6 breathing protection, 20
inspection of, 6 bearings, 220, 221 brownouts, 97, 235–37
noise made by, 197–98, 229–30 bell housing, 213 burning oil odor, 239
output stud, 196, 230 belt idlers, 161, 204, 205 burning rubber or plastic odors, 198,
starting problems and, 135–36 belts 231, 240
turning direction, 6 cracked, 235 butyl cellosolve, 64–65
aluminum engine components, 33, extra, 77
47–48, 51, 69–70, 140, 142, 155, hot pulleys and, 224–25 cabin
171, 205, 214 odor from, 231 odors in, 233–34, 238–39
aluminum fittings, 17, 19 repairing, 54–55 sounds in, 238
ammonia odor, 238 replacing, 55, 204 cable-and-sprocket steering,
antifreeze, 4, 39, 48, 49, 142, 150, slipping, 205, 224–25 112
184, 220 squeaky, 161 Calder, Nigel, 79

297
298 INDEX

camshaft coolant (Cont.): crankshaft

repair or replacements, 23 level, low, 121 barring over an engine, 36–37,
rotation of, 26, 27 mixing, 49 137–38, 156–57, 176
timing belts, 55, 146, 147, 202 oil leaking into, 45, 49, 50, 176, bearing wear, 94, 145
carbon monoxide, 240 183, 186, 218, 220–21 deflection, 36, 37
carburator, 133 recovery tank, 40–41 disabling during engine repair, 94
Casey, Don, 79 taste of, 177 end float, 77
Caterpillar diesel engines, 102, 174 temperature, 121, 131 engine oil and start-up operations,
Caterpillar engine service manuals, in transmission oil, 173, 176, 186, 30
23, 37, 77 246, 248, 251 inspection of, 149
Caterpillar sight glass kit, 55–56 types of, 47–48 lip-type seals, 95, 96–97, 170
CAV Distributor-type fuel systems, coolant expansion tank, 9, 39, 45–47, materials for, 172
85, 86 185, 221 PTO mounting and, 77
charcoal filter, 7, 72 coolant hoses, 42–43, 58, 118, 119, rear seal, 91, 93–95, 194, 213
chemicals, material data safety sheet 187–89, 223–24, 227 rotation of, 26, 27
(MSDS) for, 18 coolant level alarm switch, 40 side loads, 53–54
chromium engine components, coolant-level switches, 88–89 wet bolt holes in flange, 94
171–72, 214 coolant pump, 43–44, 142, 224, 225, crankshaft thrust bearings, 171, 214
closed-cooling system. See freshwater 226–27 Cutless bearing, 280, 282–83, 286
cooling system coolant recovery bottle, 9, 39, 46–47 cylinder block
clutch pack, 5 coolant temperature gauges and contamination in, 46
cog belt, 55, 146, 147, 202 senders, 186–87 leaks between head and, 169, 185
coking, 57 coolant temperature switches, 82, leaks in, 186
cold weather starts, 139 86, 90 locating dowels, 145
combustion chamber, 29 cooling system. See also freshwater materials for, 172
come-home feature, 4, 5, 75, 244, cooling system; keel cooling cylinder heads
245 system; arrangements for, 22, 24–25
COMO filter, 61, 68 raw-water cooling system cracked, 50–51, 144, 186, 215
compression release lever, 160 bleeding air from, 14 discoloration, 140
compression testing, 129–30, 134, cleaning, 183, 216, 220 exhaust ports, 144
138, 267–68 combustion gases in, 185, 221 head bolts, 142–43, 147, 158
compression testing tools, 129–30, components and operation of, head gaskets, 22, 24–25, 142, 143,
199 42–49, 43, 44, 47 144, 169, 185, 186, 215, 221,
connecting rod bearings, 155, 157, coolant passages, 215, 265, 266 223
204 damage from malfunction of, 38 injectors, removing, 142–43
connecting rods, 155–56, 216 inspection of, 8–9 inspection of, 142, 143, 144
constavolts. See battery chargers leaks in, 25, 26, 63–65, 140, 143, leaks between block and, 169, 185
continuity, testing for, 80, 81 174, 183–86, 220, 222–23 leaks in, 174, 175, 186
conversion charts, 12, 291–96 maintenance of, 14 pressure testing, 215, 268–70
coolant multimeter for testing, 184 removing, 143, 147
antifreeze, 4, 39, 48, 49, 142, 150, oil cooler leaks and, 45, 183, 186, rusted, 222–23
184, 220 215–16, 220–21 cylinders
changing, 46 overheating engine, 51–52, 219 arrangements for, 21, 22, 24
checking level of, 4, 5 pressure testing, 49, 182, 265–66, compression testing, 129–30, 134,
conditioner for and pH levels, 4, 6, 270–71 138, 267–68
47, 49, 58, 142, 174, 184 spare parts for, 13 cracked, 223
consumption, troubleshooting, start-up procedures, 10–11 design and construction materials,
49–51, 50 terminology, 38 25
contamination of, 46 copper engine components, 171, 214 engine that sank while running and,
in engine oil, 60–65, 89, 94, 140–41, crankcase 216
173–74, 175, 176–77, 180–82, butyl cellosolve, flushing with, firing order, 21, 228, 229
181, 186, 214–17, 218–19 64–65 inspection and testing, 128–30,
expansion of, 45 pressure, 141, 177 133–34, 144
freshwater cooling system, 39 vent system, 141, 177, 217 low power situations and, 128–30
leaks, 25, 26, 63–65, 140, 143, 174, water in, 176–77 materials for, 172
183–86, 220, 222–23 crankcase breather, 170 misfiring, 164, 210
 INDEX 299

cylinders (Cont.): diesel engine troubleshooting (Cont.): Easy-Out extractor, 12, 17, 19
overheated engine and, 219 low power, 55–56, 119–20, electrical panel, 6
pressure testing, 267–68, 271 123–30, 124, 126, 127, 191 electrical systems. See alternating
rusted, 138, 144, 171 lugs and dies, 160 current (AC) electrical system;
water in, 138, 144, 171, 180, 223 metallic sounds, 157 direct current (DC) electrical
misses, 118 system
defects in parts, 265 oil consumption high, 121 electrical tape, 13
Deflector Marine Rudder, 107 overheating, 121, 152, 160, 180–83 electrical terminals and heat-shrink
Detroit Diesel engines, 102, performance problems, 152–65, tubing, 13, 194
128–29 154, 156, 158, 161, 163, 164 electric tachometer senders, 89
Deutz diesel engine, 34 rapping noises, 159 electrochemical degradation (ECD),
diesel engines rebuilding the engine, troublespots to 58, 118, 223–24
break-in (run-in) period, 217 look for during, 138, 140–45 energize-to-run switches, 82, 83–85
combustion chamber, 29 rumbling noise, 159 energize-to-stop switches, 82, 83
compression ratios, 189 runaway engines, 15, 153–54 engine. See also diesel engines; gasoline
cylinder arrangements, 21 speed, time to reach full, 152 engines
dry cylinder liners, 25–26, 47 speed surges, 154 alarms and shutdown systems, 79,
fuel efficiency, 35–36, 98 squawk and locks up, 160 81, 83–88
fuel injection system, 30, 85, 125 squeaky belts, 161 alignment of, 276–77, 284, 288–89
fuel system configurations, 23 squeal, high-pitched, 158 appearance of, 140
gasoline engine compared to, 31–32 squealing at front of engine, 159 barring over, 36–37, 137–38, 156–57,
gasoline use in, 125 starting fluid, 138, 139 176
gear ratios, 74 starting problems, 55–56, 120, as bilge pump, 14
glow plugs, 93, 237 134–38, 139, 154, 157–58, emergency shut-off, 8
hydraulic lock, 29, 137–38, 156, 160–61 failure, crankshaft deflection and,
174, 176 stopping problems, 154 36
in-frame overhauls, 23 vibrations, 161–65 flywheel as reference point, 24
in-line engines, 21, 22, 23 warming up, time to, 152 front, 21
light loading, 32–34, 192–93 water leaking from engine, 183–84 gear ratios, 74
mounting, 161 diesel fuel, 98, 172, 236 in-frame overhauls, 23
operation at start-up, 29–30 direct current (DC) arc welder, 136 in-line engines, 21–23, 24
overpressurized cylinders, 29 direct current (DC) electrical system installation of, 21, 23
power-take-off (PTO), 30 brownouts, 97, 237 maintenance, 14, 25
shut-down paddle, 12, 15, 153–54 burning odors from, 198, 231, 240 manual for, 23, 27
start-up procedures, 10–11 circuit breakers, tripped, 194 mechanisms and systems that
vacuum testing, 149 electrical panel, 6 support operation, 26–29
warming, 139 inspection of, 6 mounting, 36–37, 54, 150, 161,
water in fuel, 60, 62 maintenance, 14 210–11
wet cylinder liners, 25, 47 multimeter for testing, 11–12, oil leak between transmission and,
wet stacking, 32, 33 80–81 75, 76
diesel engine troubleshooting resources for information about, 79 ordering parts for, 24
acceleration problems, 152–54 safety issues, 79 parent bore cylinder block, 26
appearance of outside, 140, 154–55, voltage readings, 195–96 ratings and use of, 32–34
180–81 direct current (DC) relays, 85–88 rebuilding, troublespots to look for
belching noise, 159–60 dishwasher detergent, 183, 216 during, 138, 140–45
clicking noise, 157–58 distributor cap, 202–3, 208, 228, 229 serial number plate, 3, 4
clunks, 156–57 drain plug, changing, 68–69 shaft and engine alignment,
coolant level low, 121 drill bits, 12 276–89
coolant temperature, high, 121 dripless propeller shaft seals, 7 shut-down paddle, 12, 15, 153–54
engine that sank while running, 216 dry cylinder liners, 25–26, 47 silencing strategies, 102
exhaust color, 121, 150, 189–91 dry exhaust systems, 100–102, 103, soft foot, 36–37, 161, 210–11
failures, 160 171, 180, 218, 251 start-up procedures, 10–11
fuel efficiency, 121–22 dry-wrapped exhaust manifolds, surveying, 149–50
hunting, 154 98–99 truck engines in workboats, 43
knocks, 119, 155–56 dust particles, safety and, 18, 20 V engines, 21, 24–25
locking up, 119, 120 dynamic compression testers, 129 working tolerances, 277
300 INDEX

Engine Bearings and Crankshaft exhaust system (Cont.): flywheel (Cont.):

manual, 23 purpose of, 98 as reference point on engine, 24
engine controls silencers, 104 starter staying engaged in, 209–10
inspection of, 6, 251–52 water-cooled, 47, 100 tachometer senders, 89
tagging during repairs, 94–95 water entering boat through, tightening, 163
throttle linkage and controls, 147, 14–15, 238 wet bolt holes in housing, 94
152, 207, 257–59, 260 water-lift mufflers, 14–15, 100, 101 wobble and vibration, 163, 164
engine failure wet exhaust systems, 47, 99–100 flywheel ring gear, 137, 164, 165, 210
metallic particles in engine, exhaust temperature gauge, 32, foil rudders, 107
hydraulic system, or 191–92 foot-pound, 31
transmission, 170–72, 171 extractors, 17, 18, 19 four-stroke outboards, 10, 146,
safety issues, 140, 155–56 Exxon Mobil viscosity tester, 70, 166, 147–49, 148
water or coolant in oil and, 63–65, 167 freshwater cooling system, 8–9,
173 38–39, 45–47, 48
engine gauges, 6, 12–13, 79, 81 fasteners and fittings freshwater system, 7, 15, 72
engine room inspection of, 142 fuel
blow-by gas venting into, 177 length of, 127, 143–44 additives, 34, 72, 132, 147, 172
components and systems in, 232 materials for, 12 contamination of, 60
haze in, 233–35, 234 mismatched, 142, 143–44 diesel fuel, energy from, 98
odors in, 198, 231, 233–35, 234, Never-Seez compound, 143, 144 in engine oil, 66, 89, 94, 173, 177
238–40 repairing and replacing, 16–18, 19 filter buggy, 60, 61, 62
steam in, 233 spare, 12 leaks, 211
engine troubleshooting, tools and types of and tools for working with, odor of bad, 147
equipment for, 117–18, 199 28 quality of, 34–35
equipment. See tools and equipment feeler gauges, 142, 147 running out of, 160
equivalencies and conversions, 291–96 filter buggy, 60, 61, 62 spills, 7
ether lock, 139 filters types of, 125, 132
ether starting fluid, 138, 139 inspection of, 69–70 water in, 60, 62, 124, 132, 141–42,
exhaust color materials for, 67 203–4
black, 121, 131, 150, 190–91, ratings, 67 fuel efficiency, 35–36, 98, 111, 114,
227–28 storage of, 67 121–22, 132
blue, 121, 131, 190, 227 filters, types of. See also oil filter fuel filters, 69, 124, 125, 132, 141,
white, 121, 131, 150, 189–90, 191 air, 35, 65, 66, 126, 128, 133, 150 147, 179
white with yellow, 121 charcoal, 7, 72 fuel injection pump energize-to-run
white with yellow cast, 131, 190 fuel, 69, 124, 125, 132, 141, 147, switches, 83–85
exhaust manifolds, 98–99, 144, 182, 179 fuel pump check valve, 202
186, 192–93, 219, 223 transmission oil, 4, 69 fuel pump pressure relief valve, 179
exhaust ports, 144 fire extinguishers, 6–7 fuel pumps, 145, 154, 172, 179, 202
exhaust system fire suppression system, 6–7, 240 fuel shutoff lever, 160
backfiring, 193, 208, 228 fish odor, 238, 239 fuel systems
back-pressure, 35, 103–4, 268 fittings. See fasteners and fittings air in, 55–56, 97, 124, 125–26,
bolts, 158 flange ax, 284 154, 236
disconnecting during engine repairs, flap rudders, 109 air in, bleeding air from, 14, 125,
95 flat plate rudders, 107, 109 126, 138
dry exhaust systems, 99, 100–102, flooding, sources of water entering banjo fittings, 27–28
103 boat, 14–16, 176–77, 237–38 CAV Distributor-type, 85, 86
engine start-up procedures, 10–11 flow testing, 265 diesel engines, configurations for, 23
exhaust temperatures, 98 fluorescent dye testing, 271–73 fuel fittings, 27–28
gaskets, 233–34 flywheel fuel lines, 7, 160–61
hoses, 56–58, 57 barring over an engine and, 36 fuel line sizing, 124–25, 132
leaks in, 233–34, 240 flywheel housing, leaks from, hoses, 55–56, 188–89
mufflers, 102, 104 169–70 injection pressure, 128, 199
noise made by, 193 flywheel housing, rear seal injection system, 23, 30, 154, 172,
operation at start-up, 30 replacement and, 95 228
popping sounds, 193, 228 flywheel housing size, 77 injectors, removing, 142–43
pressure testing, 182, 219, 268 gear-stripping sounds, 159 injectors, testing, 129, 191
 INDEX 301

fuel systems (Cont.): gasoline engine troubleshooting heat exchanger pump, 238
leaks in, 168–69, 173, 211 (Cont.): high-strength bolts and hardware, 12
low fuel level, 123, 132 mounting, 210–11 horsepower
low power and, 123–26, 132 oil consumption high, 132 defined, 30–31
outboard engines, 146 overheating, 199–200, 219 power ratings, 31–32
personal protection for working pinging, 209 ratings in boats, 32–34
with, 128 rebuilding the engine, troublespots to hoses
pressure readings, 179, 199 look for during, 138, 140–45 access to, 59
rust in, 154 rough running, 208 clamping, 58
safety issues, 128, 129 rumbling noise, 206 coolant hoses, 42–43, 58, 118, 119,
starting problems and, 138 shut off problems, 131 187–89, 223–24, 227
suction leaks, 55–56, 124 speed, time to reach full, 199 electrochemical degradation (ECD),
fuel tanks, 7, 14, 68–69, 203–4 squeals, 205 58, 118, 223–24
starting fluid, 139 fuel system hoses, 55–56, 188–89
galling, 234 starting problems, 55–56, 131, galvanic corrosion and, 58, 189
galvanic corrosion 134–38, 139, 201, 202–3, materials for, 58
coolant additive to minimize, 4, 6, 207–8 preformed, 58–59
142, 174, 184 stopping problems, 201–2 replacing, 188–89, 227
dissimilar metals and, 9 tools and equipment for, 199 transmission hoses, 56
hoses and, 58, 189 vibrations, 209–11, 210 types of, 53
zinc anodes to prevent, 8, 10, 39 warming up, time to, 200–201 wet-exhaust system hoses, 56–58,
gasket paper, 12 water leaking from engine, 220 57
gasoline, 147, 199, 211, 212 Gates Rubber Company, 223 hubs, wobbling, 164–65
gasoline engines gate valve, 67 hull, hole in, 15–16, 176–77, 238
break-in (run-in) period, 217 generator set, 232 hull design, rudder design and,
combustion chamber, 29 alarms and shutdown systems 109–11, 110
cylinder arrangements, 21 attached to, 79, 81, 85, 86 hydraulic controls, 258, 259, 260
diesel engine compared to, 31–32 flywheel housing, leaks from, hydraulic helm pump, 260, 261
fuel efficiency, 35–36 170 hydraulic hoses, 56
hydraulic lock, 29, 137–38 frequency meter, 194–95 hydraulic lock, 29, 137–38, 156, 174,
in-line engines, 21 identification plates, 91 176, 204
loads on power rating, 32 inspection of, 97 hydraulic oil tank, 68–69
safety issues, 199 oil on generator windings, 93–94, hydraulic steering, 112–13
start-up procedures, 10–11 194 hydraulic system, glitter in, 170–72
timing gears, 23 operation of, 91 hydrometer, 48
water in fuel, 60 ratings and use of, 32–33 hydrostatic pressure testing, 269–70,
gasoline engine troubleshooting rear crankshaft seal and, 91, 93–94, 271
acceleration noises, 206–7 194
acceleration problems, 201 servicing, 94 idler gear, 26, 27
appearance of outside, 140, 219 single-bearing, 95, 97, 158 ignition system, 133–34, 146, 229
choke, 228 tachometer senders, 89 inboard/outboard engine
clunks, 204 washing or cleaning, 94 configuration of, 21
coolant temperature, high, 131 glitter, 75, 170–72, 171, 214, 246, 250, cylinder arrangements, 21
dieseling, 201–2 252–53 engagement of, 251–52
engine that sank while running, 216 gloves, 18 maintenance, 254
exhaust color, 131, 150, 227–28 glow plugs, 93, 237 mounting, 210–11
flooding, 212 governors, 126, 127 noise made by, 257
fuel efficiency, 132 oil, checking and changing, 10
fuel injection, 228 Hansen, Paul, 261 oil, glitter in, 252–53
hydraulic lock, 204 Harbor Welding, 103 oil, water in, 253–54
knocks, 130, 204–5 hardware, materials for, 12 oil leaks, 254–55
locking up, 130 head gaskets, 22, 24–25, 142, 143, spark interrupt device, 252
low power, 55–56, 130–31, 132–34 144, 169, 185, 186, 215, 221, tilt and trim adjustments, 254
lugs and dies, 207 223 in-frame overhauls, 23
metallic sounds, 204–5 heat exchanger, 38, 39, 47, 186, 222, in-line engines, 21–23, 24
misses, 130, 208 226–27 instrument panel indicators, 237
302 INDEX

intake air plumbing system MSDS (material data safety sheet), 18 oil dipstick
aftercooler, 38, 41–42, 43 mufflers, 102, 104, 126, 133 blow-by gas venting from, 177
air filters, 35, 65, 66, 126, 128, multimeter, 11–12, 80–81, 184 calibrating, 72, 94
133, 150 Murphy coolant-level alarm switch, coolant or water leaking from,
air in fuel systems, 14, 55–56, 97, 40, 90 176–77, 216–17
124 crankcase pressure and, 141, 177
contamination in, 65–66 NAPA auto parts stores, 12 oil leaking from, 177
engine operation and, 35 National Aeronautics and Space oil level, erratic changes in, 217–18
engine shut-down paddle, 12, 15, Administration (NASA), 107 oil filter
153–54 Never-Seez compound, 143, 144 change interval, 70–71
filter restriction gauge, 126, 128, normally-closed switches, 82 changing, 71
133 normally-open switches, 81–82 housing, pressure testing, 182
leaks in, 65, 66, 166 inspection of, 69–70, 142, 149,
silencing strategies, 102 oil (engine oil) 170–72, 171, 181, 205, 214
intercooler, 38, 41. See also aftercooler additives, 71–72 silicone lubricant on seal, 71
internal pipe wrench, 17, 18 air in, 145 types of, 61, 67–69, 68, 167, 168, 212
iron engine components, 51–52, 70, change interval, 70–71 oil level switch, 89
140, 172, 214 changing, 147 oil pan
checking, 4 appearance of, 150, 178, 218
John Deere engines, 85 color of, 75, 149, 165–67, 211–12 coolant or water in, 180–82, 181,
consumption, 121, 132 218–19
keel cooling system contamination of, 60, 66–67 gaskets, 214
components and operation of, 38, coolant or water in, 60–65, 67, 89, oil pickup tube, 145, 178
39–40, 42 94, 140–41, 149, 173–74, oil pressure
coolant contamination and, 46 175, high, 178
coolant expansion tank, 45–46 176–77, 180–82, 181, 186, low, 121, 131, 178–79
coolant recovery tank, 40–41 214–17, 218–19 no, 178
inspection of, 9 fuel in, 66, 89, 94, 173, 177 surveying, 150
installation of, 41 glitter in, 170–72, 171, 214 oil pressure gauges and senders,
leaks from, 186 heating, 138 12–13, 75, 178
repairing and replacing, 40 leaks, 75, 140, 168, 169–70, 176, oil pressure switches and alarms, 79,
sizing, 40 183, 186, 212–14, 213 81, 82, 83, 86, 88, 90
Knight, Herb, 46 level, erratic changes in, 217–18 oil pump, 145, 159
level, low, 174, 176, 218 oil storage tank, 66–67
leak down testers, 130 level, rising, 66, 173–74, 216–17 O-ring seals, 145, 189, 200, 224,
light loading, 32–34, 192–93 lubricating quality of, 173 270–71
lip-type seals, 95, 96–97, 170 maintenance, 14 outboard engines. See also four-stroke
Loctite, 13 mixing with fuel for two-stroke outboards; two-stroke outboards
lubricants, 12 outboards, 10, 147 cooling system, 146
Never-Seez compound mixed with, cylinder arrangements, 21
Maddocks, Roy, 93 143, 144 engagement of, 251–52
Magnaflux test (magnetic particle odor of, 143 ignition system, 146
testing), 175, 271, 273–75 overfilling, 94 inspection of, 9–10
magnetic impulse pickups, 89, 179 start-up operation, 30 low power, 147
maintenance procedures, 14 testing, 150 maintenance, 10, 147–49, 148, 254
manometer, 35, 103–4, 266, 267, types of, 178, 212 noise made by, 257
268 viscosity tester, 70–71, 166, 167 oil, checking and changing, 10, 253
manual hydraulic steering, 112 oil cooler (engine oil) oil, glitter in, 252–53
Mapp gas torch, 78 components and operation of, 44 oil, water in, 253–54
marine gear, 73. See also transmission as heat exchanger, 38, 44 oil leaks, 254–55
Marvel Mystery Oil, 12, 34, 71–72 leaks in, 44, 45, 49, 50, 174, 176, spark interrupt device, 252
material data safety sheet (MSDS), 183, 186, 214–16, 218, starting problems, 146
18 220–21 tilt and trim adjustments, 254
mechanical lock, 138 pressure testing, 45, 182, 216, 218 timing gears, 23
mechanical working, 272–73 oil cooler (transmission oil). See troubleshooting, 145–47
MER Equipment, 46 transmission oil cooler zinc anodes on, 10
 INDEX 303

outdrives. See inboard/outboard pressure testing (Cont.): raw-water pump (Cont.):

engine large assemblies, 270–71 troubleshooting, 188, 225–26
overheated engine oil cooler, 45, 182, 216, 218 winterizing, 48
causes of, 41, 51, 121, 152, 180–83, purpose of, 265 recording compression testers, 129–30
199–200, 219, 266 temperature of system and, 270 reduction gear, 73. See also
damage from, 51–52, 200, 219 tools for, 199, 266–67 transmission
noise made by, 160 transmission oil cooler, 183, 184, relays, 85–88
246 respirator, 20
parent bore cylinder block, 26 types of, 266, 269–70 reverse osmosis (RO) filter system, 72
penetrant testing, 271–73 propellers revolutions per minute (RPM), 31
personal protection, 18, 20, 128 acceleration problems, 152–53, 201 rocker arms, 122–23, 137, 142
Pflaum, David, 195 freewheeling, 245–46 rotary vane actuators, 112
pillow-block bearing, 280, 281–82, installation of, 283–84, 286 (RPM) revolutions per minute, 31
286, 290 line in, 128, 133, 147, 207 rudderpost, 105, 106, 108
pipe nipple, 17, 19 matching, 259 rudders
piston rings removing, 78 angle indicators, 259
blow-by gases, 141, 177, 217, 268 thrust, 73 aspect ratio, 109, 110
keystone compared to square-cut, vibrations and, 250–51 balance area, 109–10
34, 138 won’t spin, 244 design of, 105, 106, 107, 108
number of, 34 propeller shaft failures, 106
sealing ability, 165–66, 211–12 alignment of, 245, 276–77, 284, 286 hull design and, 109–11, 110
pistons bends in, 277, 278–79 mounting and fastening of, 105,
contact between valves and, 144 coupling between transmission and, 106–7
damage, signs of, 51, 69–70, 142, 76, 249, 280, 281 safety and, 106
155–56, 205 creep, 242–44, 245 shapes, 107, 109–11
engine that sank while running and, gear ratios, 74 speed and, 109
216 line wrapped around, 128, 133 stall, 110–11
height of, 216 locking, 76 swing of, 106, 111
hydraulic lock, 29, 137–38, 156, shaft brake problems, 160 tracking and, 111
174, 176, 204 spinning with engine off, 245–46 run-out, 165
materials for, 33, 51–52, 69–70, vibrations, 250–51, 278
171–72 water entering boat through, 15, safety issues
overheated engine and, 219 237–38 AC electrical systems, 6, 79
plate rudders, 107, 109 working tolerances, 277 batteries, 196
power-assisted hydraulic steering, propeller shaft seal, 7 black lights, 273
112–13 pulleys, 164–65, 204, 224–25, 227, DC electrical systems, 79
Powerboater’s Guide to Electrical 230 engine failure, 140, 155–56
Systems (Sherman), 79 Push-Loc hose, 54–55 fuel systems, 128, 129
power-take-off (PTO) pushrods, 143, 205 gasoline engines, 199
barring over an engine with, 36 pyrometer, 32, 191–92 ignition system and, 133
belt replacement and, 53, 77 material data safety sheet (MSDS),
crankshaft end float and, 77 rack-and-pinion steering, 112 18
engagement of at start-up, 30 rams (steering cylinder), 106–7, 108, personal protection, 18, 20, 128
flywheel housing size and, 77 113–14 runaway engines, 153
mounting, 77 raw-water cooling system standing beside a running engine,
options for, 76–77 components and operation of, 9, 156
purpose of, 30, 73, 76 38–39, 48 toxic gases, 240
vibrations, 162–63, 244–45, 251 engine as bilge pump, 14 Sailboat Electrics Simplified (Casey), 79
pressure cap, 46, 48–49, 182 strainer, inspection of, 8–9 sea trial, 289–90
pressure testing troubleshooting, 188 seawater pump. See raw-water pump
cooling system, 49, 182, 265–66, water entering boat through, 14–15 serial number plate, 3, 4
270–71 winterizing, 48 serpentine belt, 205
cylinder heads, 215, 268–70 raw-water pump shaft alley, 280–81, 282
cylinders, 129–30, 134, 138, belts, 53, 54–55 sheet metal thicknesses, 296
267–68, 271 failure of, 47 Sherman, Ed, 79
exhaust system, 182, 219, 268 purpose of, 38, 39 shims and shim stock, 12
304 INDEX

shut-down paddle, 12, 15, 153–54 stern drives. See inboard/outboard transmission (Cont.):
shutdown systems. See alarms and engine engine start-up procedures, 11
shutdown systems stern tube (Cutless) bearing, 280, failure, 75
sight glass, 55–56, 125, 126, 154, 236 282–83, 286 front coupling and seal, 75, 76, 241,
silencers, 104 stuffing box 242, 281
silicone sealants, 12, 13, 214 adjusting, 282 gear ratios, 74
single-bearing generators, 95, 97, 158 inspection of, 7 input shaft oil seal, 170
Society of Automotive Engineers operation of, 7 intermediate shaft, 280–81, 286,
(SAE), 28, 77, 280 purpose of, 7 288
soft foot, 36–37, 161, 210–11 shaft and engine alignment, 280, maintenance, 75
spark interrupt device, 252 282 mounting, 36–37, 77
spark plugs, 133–34, 146, 228, 229 shaft seal, 282, 283 noise made by, 248–50
spark plug wires, 133, 134, 146, water entering boat through, 15, oil leak between engine and, 75, 76
228–29 176–77, 237–38 output shaft and coupling, 278,
Spill Guard, 7 sulfur odor, 198, 231, 234–35 280, 281
Stambaugh, Lowell, 107 surveyors, 149 propeller spinning and, 244
Stanadyne Corporation, 34, 85, 125, switches, 79, 80–81, 83–88, 90 purpose of, 73, 74, 241
160–61 switches, types of rear coupling, 76
starter drive, 137, 159, 165, 206, 208 energize-to-run, 82, 83–85 rear shaft, 280, 282
starter motor energize-to-stop, 82, 83 relationship to engine, 21
direction of rotation, 6 normally-closed, 82 serial number plate, 3, 4
gear-stripping sounds, 158–59 normally-open, 81–82 shaft, weight of, 288
hot, 197, 230 three-terminal, 82–83, 88 shaft and engine alignment, 276–89
inspection of, 6 two-terminal, 81, 82 soft foot, 36–37, 161
loose studs, 230 sounds from, 158
specifications of, 6 tachometer, 179–80, 259 surveying, 150
starting problems and, 136–37, tachometer senders, 89 towing procedures, 76
157–58 temperature gauges, 181 trolling valve, 76, 128, 244
vibrations and, 209–10 thermostats, 13, 44–45, 90, 152, 187, vent, vapor or steam from, 235
starter motor solenoid, 136, 196, 230 200–201, 265 vibrations, 244–45, 250–51, 277–78
starter switch, 6, 136 thread locking compound, 13 working tolerances, 277
starting fluid, 138, 139 three-terminal switches, 82–83, 88 transmission gauges, 6
starting problems throttle linkage and controls, 147, transmission linkage and controls, 6,
diesel engines, 55–56, 120, 134–38, 152, 207, 257–59, 260 257, 259–60
139, 154, 157–58, 160–61 throughhulls and seacocks, 9, 15, 39, transmission oil
gasoline engines, 55–56, 131, 134–38, 48, 176–77 checking, 4
139, 201, 202–3, 207–8 tiller, 106, 111–12 color of, 75
outboard engines, 146 timing chain or belt, 26, 27, 55, 146, coolant or water in, 173, 176, 186,
steel engine components, 172, 214, 147, 202, 213, 228 246, 248, 251
246 timing gears, 21, 22, 23, 36, 159 glitter in, 75, 170–72, 214, 246, 250
steering cylinder (rams), 106–7, 108, tools and equipment, 11–13, 117–18, hoses, 56
113–14 199 leaks, 75, 169, 170, 183, 186,
steering systems. See also rudders torque, 30–31, 32, 292 241–42
autopilots, 114 torsional vibrations, 76 maintenance, 14
control cables, 256 towing procedures, 76 temperature and pressure, 75
cost-saving measures and, 107 toxic gases, 240 types of, 75
emergency steering, 261 transmission transmission oil cooler
failures, 106 alignment of, 276–77 failure of, 235
hydraulic fluid leaks, 256–57 clutch pack, 5, 242–44, 246 hoses, 56
maintenance on, 105 come-home feature, 4, 5, 75, 244, leaks in, 49, 56, 169, 176, 183, 186,
rudders, 105–11 245 220–21, 241–42, 246, 248,
safety and, 105, 107 control lever, 243 251
steering cylinder (rams), 106–7, couplings, alignment of, 289 oil flow direction, 56
108, 113–14 couplings, openings between, 287 pressure testing, 183, 184, 246
troubleshooting, 259, 260–62, 261 creep, 242–44, 245 transmission oil dipstick, 246, 247,
types of, 111–12 engagement of, 248 248
 INDEX 305

transmission oil pressure, 246–47, valve stem packings, 56 water-cooled exhaust system,
248 valve stems, 143 47, 100
transmission oil suction screen and V engines, 21, 24–25 water filters, 7, 72
filter, 4, 69, 75, 150, 247 vibrations water-jacketed exhaust manifolds,
trolling valve, 76, 128, 244 diesel engine troubleshooting, 98–99, 186, 219, 223
Trombetta actuator, 81, 83–85, 84, 86 161–65 water-lift mufflers, 14–15, 100,
troubleshooting with five senses, 151, gasoline engine troubleshooting, 101
199 209–11, 210 water pump, 145, 227
truck engines in workboats, 43 power-take-off (PTO), 162–63, water pump belts, 189, 230, 235
turbochargers, 41, 104, 149–50 244–45, 251 water tanks, 15
The 12-Volt Bible for Boats (Brotherton shaft and engine alignment, water temperature gauges and senders,
and Sherman), 79 278–84, 280, 281, 282, 283 12–13
Twin Disc transmissions, 75, 76 voltage, testing for, 80 Watt, James, 31
two-stroke outboards, 10, 147 voltage readings, 195–96, 237 Weber, Randy, 71
two-terminal switches, 81, 82 Volvo-Penta diesel engines, 138 wedge rudders, 107, 109
wet bolt holes, 94
Ultra-Gray Silicone Sealer, 12 water wet cylinder liners, 25, 47
U.S. Coast Guard, 56 in cylinders, 138, 144, 171, 180, wet-exhaust system, 47, 56–58, 57,
223 99–100
vacuum testing, 147–49, 148 in engine oil, 60–65, 67, 89, 94, wet- or dry-vacuum, 68–69
valve cover, 22, 24–25, 142, 143, 140–41, 149, 173–74, 175, wet stacking, 32, 33
213–14 176–77, 180–82, 181, Wing, Charlie, 79
valves 214–17, 218–19 Wischer, Thomas, 62
adjusting, 122–23, 142, 147, 157 in fuel, 60, 61, 62, 124, 132, Wolrich, Stanley, 103
bent, 55, 157, 205 141–42, 203–4 wooden boats, 15
checking settings, 142 leaking from engine, 183–84, 220
contact between pistons and, 144 sources of water entering boat, Zepalume, 155
engine noises and, 157, 205 14–16, 176–77, 237–38 zero lash, 123, 137
loose valves, 129, 134 in transmission oil, 173, 176, 246, ZF transmissions, 75
tight valves, 129, 134, 142 248, 251 zinc anodes, 8, 10, 39