GREETINGS & THANK YOU!

Dear WorldWorks friend,

You are already a friend because by purchasing this model set you've just helped
me to continue creating new worlds! This is how I make my living and it is only
because of your support that I have been able to create so many unique model
sets. WorldWorks is a small business and with your future support there will be
many more worlds to come ;) All that I ask of you is that if you like what I'm doing
please tell a friend. If you have received this model set by means of pirating or file
sharing please consider that you could very well destroy the future of
WorldWorks Games and put me out of work. Without your support its back to
bartending for me and no new model sets for you :( I make every effort to price all
WorldWorks products to be EXTREMELY affordable for even the poorest of
gamers and will continue to do so as long as I have your support.

My prime goal has always been to offer gamers an affordable model solution
without sacrificing visual flair. These are the model sets I always wanted when I
was a player but they simply didn't exist. So...throw away your garage sale props
because Denny is here to help you through the tough times with really cool and
most importantly "affordable" model sets.

I give to you the keys of an expansive world the likes of which none have seen. I
hope that you enjoy this and other WorldWorks products (DungeonWorks,
VillageWorks, CaveWorks , InteriorWorks: Pubs & Inns , InteriorWorks:
Castles & Keeps, Gothic Realms, ArenaWorks and more coming soon!)
and spread the word. Your continued support will help me to create new visions,
new dreams and new worlds for your greatest adventures.

Denny Unger

Owner/Creator
www.worldworksgames.com
[email protected]
 Materials

● HOBBY KNIFE: The only way to go. If you want your models to have a clean edge then this is
the tool of choice. Use scissors only as a last resort! Cant afford one??? Look in your Dads
shop!
● WHITE CRAFT GLUE: is the most forgiving and inexpensive adhesive.
You can also use a glue stick although your models may come apart over time. DO NOT USE A
GLUEGUN! I'm a practiced glue gun user and I destroyed more models than I care to mention.
Glue guns dry WAY too fast! You need some time when gluing various pieces into position and
glue guns dont give you ANY play time.
● A STRAIGHT EDGE RULER: is absolutely essential. This ruler will act as your knife guide and
provide you with a precise edge. Without it your model will come out looking messy and uneven.
● A WOODEN RULER and or PENCIL: is used as a gluing support for hard to reach gluing
points.
● CUTTING PAD: A cutting pad is an invaluable tool. They provide an ideal cutting surface that is
easy on your blade and your table. Pick one up at your local office supply or fabric store. If you
can t pick one up or you simply can't afford one you can always use a piece of cardboard.
● CARDSTOCK: Last but not least you will need some cardstock to print your models on. Buy the
heaviest weight card that you can find. 110 LB card stock works well and is inexpensive. 110
LB cardstock is relatively easy to find and is commonly used to print business cards and
greeting cards. You can print on standard paper if you wish but your models will not last for
more than one or two games.
 PRINTING

Every Printer is different and has its own unique way of handling print jobs. This guide
will give you a basic list of checkpoints to ensure the best quality print possible.

● Select "file" then "Print" in Adobe Reader

● You will be shown a window with your printer's name, number of copies to print and so
on.
● VERY IMPORTANT! UNCHECK the "Page Scaling" box! If you dont do this your
models will print at the wrong scale!!!
● VERY IMPORTANT POINT 2: PRINT ONLY THE PAGES YOU NEED! Be sure
to tell the print dialog what page or pages you would like to print. Under "print range"
click on "pages from" and enter the page number you need to print in both boxes. If
you are unsure what the page number is simply look at the bottom of the page you
intend to print for the number. Be kind to your ink cartridge and only print model pages
(not the instructions).
● At the top right of the print dialog window you should also see a "properties" tab.
Select Properties now.
● IMPORTANT! Depending on your printer model you should now see a list of options.
Under the heading "Paper" make sure that the "Printable area" is set to "Standard"
NOT CENTERED and that the paper size is set to 8 1/2 by 11.
● Now go back to the "Main" printer options and select "custom" and "advanced" from
the print quality area.You should be presented with options for "Media Type" (paper
type) and "Print Quality". Under "Media Type" select "Matte Paper Heavyweight".
Under "Print Quality" select "Photo 360 or 720 DPI". You can select higher DPI
levels but they consume more ink. You can also select lower levels such as 360 DPI but
your print quality will suffer. The basic rules are these:
❍ Higher print quality (or DPI, Dots Per Inch)= More ink consumed / tighter

visual clarity.
❍ Lower print quality (or DPI, Dots Per Inch)= Less ink consumed / dotty,

slightly muddy visual quality.

● Save your settings (If you're given the option) and select "Print".
● You may also opt to print your models in black and white to save on colour ink. Most
printer models offer you a choice of colour or black print jobs at the first print screen.

All done! You'll be building in no time. Depending on your printer model you may have to
repeat the above steps each time you print however,If you were given the option to save your
print settings then you can simply load your customs settings at each print. Some printers offer
the option to scale down or resize the printout. This feature may be usefull to users who want
smaller models to fit their particular figures.

HEWLETT PACKARD & CANON TROUBLESHOOTING

The above settings are optimized for Epson Stylus printers. If you have a Hewlett Packard or
Canon printer you may experience "bad margin" issues (the image is cut off on the sides). To
rectify these problems be sure to download the latest drivers for your printer. If the latest
drivers still do not resolve the problem use the following fix:

In Acrobat, up towards the top, is an icon on the right hand side of the toolbar called "Graphics
Select Tool" or "Snapshot (Camera icon)" depending on what version you have. Click that, and
select the actual item you want to print. Be sure you select no more than a couple pixels more
than the object itself. Then, go to print. Once there choose the "Selected Graphic" button. Print!

It's a great way to get rid of the "margin" that Acrobat seems to be adding. It's not a margin!
Acrobat thinks the white space on either side of the images is part of the image

Please note: WorldWorks is not responsible for faulty hardware or incompatable driver settings.
 CUTTING TIPS

PLEASE NOTE!
Hobby knives are VERY sharp use only under adult supervision.

The Knife and the Ruler

These two items are your new best friends. If you are like many people you are probably accustomed
to cutting paper and cardboard with scissors.The unfortunate reality is that scissors are the worst way
to cut paper in a straight line. Using the Knife and Ruler technique is not only more precise; it is a
method that you will choose for the rest of your paper cutting life! Follow these simple steps for paper
cutting bliss:

1. Place a model template on your cutting pad.

2. Take your metal ruler and place the edge along any of the black guides. IMPORTANT: Apply a
strong downward pressure on the ruler. This will keep the template from moving around during cutting.

3. With your other hand place the hobby knife blade against the edge of the ruler.

4. IMPORTANT: Apply a small amount of pressure on the blade towards the ruler so that you
have firm contact between the two tools. This will
ensure a very percise and straight cut.

5. With one smooth stroke pull the blade along the rulers edge while maintaining downward pressure
on the ruler.

IMPORTANT: Hobby knives are very sharp; you do not need to apply a huge amount of
pressure when cutting the paper itself.
A light touch is usually all it takes.

6. That s it!

Scoring and Folding

It s really easy to get a nice crisp edge on your folds. All that you have to do is repeat the above steps
except this time DO NOT CUT. Once your ruler and knife are lined up to the fold line apply only as
much pressure as your hand is heavy. That is to say, apply NO PRESSURE but instead use the
weight of your hand to drag the blade across the fold. If done properly you should have just broken the
top layer of the card stock enough for a crisp folding point.
 Gluing

You would think that gluing was a straightforward kind of topic but surprisingly there are a few
tips that will make life a lot easier for you.

Tip 1

USE A HARD AND EVEN SURFACE. Whenever possible try to attach the various pieces of your
model against a hard and even surface.
This will ensure even glue distribution and tack.

Tip 2

LESS IS MORE. Use only a small bead of glue when applying glue to the flaps.
If you use too much white glue on a given area you will cause warping as the glue
seeps into the cardstock fibers. By using less glue you will also decrease drying time.

Tip 3

THE 3 SECOND RULE. Once you are sure of position be sure to apply pressure to the
area being glued for at least 3 seconds. This will ensure a secure bond.

Tip 4

IF YOU CANT REACH IT WITH YOUR FINGERS, DON T! If you are modeling a section and you
cant quite reach a flap to apply pressure because there is no room instead use a wooden ruler or a
pencil. Take the back side of your wooden ruler or pencil and insert it along the inside edge of the flap.
This way you can apply pressure evenly from both sides while the glue takes hold
 "EDGING"

Get That Professional Finish With Edging

Edging is a simple technique that only takes a couple of extra minutes but turns your models
from "so so" to WOW! Its all about that annoying white line that shows up when you score and
fold your models. The models look great but if you could only get rid of that white line they
would look so much better...and they do!

How to "EDGE"
● Edging is very simple. Get yourself set up with three primary felt colors:
❍ A Black Felt (A black felt is an absolute must as it seems to work well for almost
any model youre working on but can be too dark in some cases)
❍ A Grey Felt ( Great for stone, metalic and washed out colors)
❍ A Brown Felt ( Perfect for most wood and earth tones)
● Once you've completed a model look at its overall colorscheme and select a felt that is
the closest match.
● On each white crease that is visible lightly drag your felt across the length of the seam.
This may require more than one pass depending on how deep the cut /fold is.

You might be shaky at first but after a few models you'll be an edging pro! Your friends will
think you blew hundreds on some solid models. Just try edging one model and you'll never
look back ;)
 "CLIP-IT" SYSTEM

THE EVIL BUMPING, SHAKING WAR PARTY

So you've completed your models, set up your map and everything looks amazing. You cant
wait for your eager group to start plunging into the depths until... "Jonny" makes his first shaky
handed move into one of the main corridors and he bumps the board. Suddenly your carefully
crafted network of tunnels and props is in a chaotic disarray. You cry, scream, meltdown and
chastise Jonny for his clumsiness.

This has been the criticism of "paper models" for far too long. Critics bark "They're just too
light to be practical". Well, I'm here to tell you that this isn't an issue anymore! The whole
situation can now be easily remedied with the help of the good old paperclip. The corridor
sections have been completely redesigned to accommodate the much needed paper clip.
(Please note: DungeonWorks users can apply this same technique to the underside of the corridor
sections at the hollow point of the wall ends.

How to "CLIP-IT"
Simply take a pack of paper clips (gold in color if possible) and clip corridor sections, risers
and almost anything together with ease! As a result of clipping everything together your model
set takes on a greater overall weight and resilience to slipping and bumping.

You'll find that this one simple technique helps immensely in the quest for "bump proof"
cardstock models. For even more tips on "Weighting" and making your models "stay put"
please refer to the Beginners Guide included in this model set or visit us online at
www.worldworksgames.com
 WEIGHTING YOUR MODELS

Weighting Your Models and Giving Them "Staying Power"

While the "CLIP-IT" system may solve many of your bumping model blues you might want
to take it a step further. The following techniques are guaranteed to make your models as
heavy and as unmovable as the heaviest of commercially made models.

PENNY STRIPPING
● Tools of the trade:
❍ GLUE GUN or TAPE (Kids need adult supervision if using the glue gun!)
❍ PENNIES (Raid your piggy bank, your couch, your wife's purse, your Moms
purse, your Dads wallet and that kid down the street you despise)

● Penny Stripping is a very simple, speedy process for giving your models some
much needed extra weight. This works on small prop pieces right up to large risers.
Simply apply pennies to the inside of the model you wish to give weight. The more
pennies you add the heavier the model will be. Attach the pennies by using either a
strip of tape or a hot glue gun. Because I use my models so often I opted for the glue
gun and the pennies have stayed on for months.

RUBBERIZED BOTTOMS
● Another cheap, fast and effective way of keeping your models from moving around
is to rubberize their bottoms. Tools of the trade:
❍ HOT GLUE GUN ( This method works best with low temperature glues as they
tend to be more "rubbery".)
● Place your selected models upside down on a even surface and run a bead of hot
glue in a zigzag pattern on the bottom. IMPORTANT! Be sure to give your models at
least five minutes before flipping them over or the results could be disastrous. The
glue gunned bottoms of your models will now have the friction they need to hold
their place on your Masterboard. This method works best for corridor pieces and
ground tiles.

THUMBTACK ATTACK!
When all else fails probably the most effective technique is also the simplest. Grab
yourself a handful of low profile thumbtacks and simply stick your models right to your
Masterboard. Your foamcore Masterboard is perfectly suited to the thumbtack solution!
The only downside to this technique is that you'll be creating small holes on your models
and Masterboard. Tip: try to use the same holes each time you use the models.

If you combine all four techniques: CLIP-IT, PENNY STRIPPING,

RUBBERIZED BOTTOMS and THUMBTACK ATTACK your models aren't going
ANYWHERE! Now no one can say anything negative about paper models...I hope ;)
WorldWorks WORLDS ~ 3D Cardstock Models for Roll Playing

Once you've made your masterpiece model set you might find that you're running out of room.
You may also want to transport your models to and from gaming areas. If you've printed your
models on a heavy weight cardstock then they are going to be with you for some time to come
so you best be prepared for storage issues. Here are a few handy storage tips for the avid
modeler/gamer:
● Grab some old cardboard boxes from your local grocery or liquor store for easy
stackable/transportable storage.
● Place the smaller models inside the larger models for more efficient use of space.
● Store your models in a dry environment. Excess humidity will cause your models to
warp.
● COOL TIP! Is your model collection getting out of hand? Nowhere to store it all??? You
have extra storage space all around you but you did'nt even know it. Grab yourself a
handful of tacks; now choose a nice clean, bare wall in the room of your choice. Begin
attaching your models to the wall in neat rows. This is a killer way to organize your
models for gaming and is ideally done in the room you play in.
● If you can afford it you can always store your models on display shelves.

file:///C|/Documents and Settings/Denny/My Documents/.../Website/WorldWorks folder/WorldWorks/storagepdf.html [11/6/2002 4:49:26 PM]

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