Level One, Science-Classifying Fabrics (Vero)
Level One, Science-Classifying Fabrics (Vero)
Level One, Science-Classifying Fabrics (Vero)
Dull looking, found only in natural colors e.g. off lusterous and attractive available in
white, brown and black different tints, prints and shades
Wrinkled with broken threads, stained and uneven Smooth and wrinkle free, no defects,
edges even edges and free from stains
Unattractive to customers, used for rough Attractive to customers and marketab
work…..e.g. packing and backing
IMPOTANCE OF FINISHES
Improves appearance
Variety is obtained i.e. printing and dyeing
Improves texture( feel)
Increases usability
Improves draping ability
Enhancing performance
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
Classification is based on:
I. function
Ii. Performance
III. Nature
FUNCTION
These may further be classified as:
Basic(aesthetic)
specialized (functional)
AESTHETIC (BASIC, COMMON) FINISHES
Finish is applied to improve appearance, feel or body
Examples are; bleaching, starching, steam ironing, dyeing, printing and embroidery
PERFORMANCE FINISHES
These are identified by the degree of performance;
Temporary- e.g. starching
Semi durable- e.g. bleaching, dyeing
Durable- pleats, wrinkle
Permanent- waterproof, fireproof
FUNCTIONAL (SPECIAL) FINISHES
These are applied to improve performance of fabrics for specific uses
Examples fireproof, waterproof and crease resistant treatments for finishes
CHEMICAL/MECHANICAL FINISHES
Also called wet and dry finishes respectively
Chemical finishes- appearance or physical properties is changed and its permanent e.g.
crease resistance, fireproof
Mechanical finishes-moisture, pressure or devices are used e.g. heating, brushing etc.
DYES AND PRINTING
The process of producing colour and designs on fabric is called dyeing and printing
DYES
There are two types;
Natural dyes
Synthetic dyes
NATURAL DYES
Obtained from natural sources e.g. vegetables, animals, minerals
its slow, difficult and expensive but eco friendly
SYNTHETIC DYES
Are made from chemicals
Are hazardous
Easy to use
APPLICATION OF DYES
Dyes are used on:
Fibre
Yarn
Fabric
Garments
DECORATIVE DYEING
This is when dyeing is carried out in a selective ways to get a different designs
This also called resist dyeing…threads or wax is used
Examples of resist dyeing are;
Tie and dye
Batik
TIE AND DYE
Threads are used as resist material to stop the dye from entering the selected areas of
the fabric
TIE AND DYE DESIGNS
Marbling –fabric is crumbled into a ball and tied into at different areas randomly
Binding- fabric is folded and picked from one point and tied with a thread at intervals
Knotting – knots are put on a fabric wherever desired
Folding – put the fabric on a table pleat and fold it uniformly in lengthwise direction tie
it at regular intervals to get widthwise lines and vice versa is true for length wise lines.
BATIK
Wax is used as resist material
PRINTING
Printing is done on fabrics only
Types of printing are:
Block printing
Screen printing
Roller printing
Stencil printing
Various types of fabric
Fabrics: - Sets of yarns are used for formation of fabric, Fabrics are produced in
number of ways which are detailed below:
Types of Fabrics
Woven Knitted Nonwoven Others
Woven Fabric: A woven fabric is composed of two basic series of yarn called warp
and weft
Knitted Fabric: Fabric which are constructed by interlocking a series of loop of one
or more yarns by hand or by machine are called knitted Fabrics.
Non-Woven Fabric: It is produced by mixing fibers and making into the form of a
thick layer of web of width corresponding to desired width of the fabric.
Other Fabrics: Braids, Lace, Netting, Felt etc.
NATURAL MANMADE
NOTE: regenerated fibres are a mixture of fibres that result into a new different fibre.
PROPERTIES OF FIBRES
Properties of fibres entail the fibre behavior that describes fabrics characteristics. Properties of
fibres include fineness, abrasion, shape retention, density (strength), wrinkle or crease,
thermal, reaction to moisture (absorbency) resilience (elasticity) and static electricity.
These properties react to certain forces and show out their behavior. The Conditions include
fire, water cold weather, rubbing, chemicals and light or sunlight.
YARN PRODUCTION
During fibre production, synthetic fibres are put through a spinning process during which they
are forced through small holes in showerhead-style structure, creating long, continuous fibres
called ‘filament’ fibres. Unlike natural fibres, manufacturers can control the thickness of the
fibre during
This process. Staple fibres are short, natural fibres with the exception of silk, which naturally
develops in a continuous length. Filament fibres can be cut to resemble staple fibres, so
mimicking the properties of natural fibres. Synthetic fibres are cut down to become staple fibres
when they are blended with natural fibres. Spinning is also the name given to the process of
twisting staple fibres together to make yarn. Yarn is twisted during the spinning process; the
twist holds the short fibres together and contributes to strength. Yarn for weaving is tightly
twisted to make it strong, while yarn for knitting is twisted more loosely to make it stretch. It
also has better absorbency and a softer, warmer handle. A single yarn is one yarn twisted, ply
yarns are two or more single yarns twisted together. Two-ply yarn is two yarns twisted together
and three-ply is three yarns twisted together. Ply yarns are stronger than single yarns. Yarn can
also be twisted and textured to enhance its performance or aesthetic qualities. Synthetic yarns
can be heat set during manufacture to produce a texture.
KNITTING
The knitted fabrics are constructed with an arrangement of interlocking loops of yarns that are
influenced by the type of knitting style used, that is, the fibre, the fineness or closeness of the
knitting, the dimensional stability of the fabric and special finishes.
BONDING
Bonded fabrics are light but firm and require no underlining of the tricot (knit) that usually is
fused to the back of them. Bonded fabrics do not ravel 1. It is important to check a bonded fabric
whether the lengthwise and crosswise yarns are at right angles to each other. So bonded fabrics
are first woven and then fused with a tricot or knit to make them strong.
CROCHETING
Crocheted fabrics are constructed in anarrangement of interlocking loops of cotton yarns by
using a crochet hook. The name is derived from a French term ‘crochet’ which means a small
hook. Usuallydone with the use of by hand and are influenced by crocheting patterns.
MACRAMÉ
A form of textile making using knots rather than weaving or knitting. Its primary knots are the
square knots (a variant of the reef knot) forms of hitching. The process of construction is done
by full hitch and double hitches. Sometimes after macramé the fabric appears like a web that
has been made out of hand knotted cords. Usually used for wall decorations, hanging baskets
garments etc.
FELTING
Felt fabrics are without grain, making it possible to place pattern sections in any direction. They
are available in different colours and do not ravel. Many construction processes for leather and
synthetics is done by felting method.
TYPES OF FABRICS
Types of fabric to include cotton, denim, silk, linen, polyester, nylon, viscose, flannel and wool
FABRIC FINISH
This is the process of converting the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more
specifically the process performed after dyeing the yarns or fabric to improve the look (visual),
performance or touch feel of the finished textile or clothing.
It also entails treating the yarns or fabric once it has been constructed and dyed. Fabric finishing
improvesthe textilebeyond its functionality and natural state. So fabric finishes are very vital to
the textile industry since theyplay a very important role on textile products chemical and
physical properties.
Methods of testing fabrics to include visual inspection, burning test, solubility and microscopy
Some of the common market terms of the fabric used in Garment Industry
2x2 Fabric in which two fold yarn is used in
both directions.
2x1 Fabric having two fold yarn in one
direction and single yarn in other
direction.
Brocade Rich heavy fabrics woven on jacquard
looms having floral or figured patterns
emphasized by contrasting surfaces or
colors.
Cambric A light weight closely woven plain
weave fabric usually with a stiff finish for
giving weight and appearance.
Canvas Heavy durable cotton fabric made from
coarse, hard twisted yarns.
Chiffon A transparent sheer fabric of plain
weave. Yarns used are highly twisted.
Usually has a soft finish.
China Silk A very soft, extremely light weight silk
made in a plain weave. Used mainly for
linings. Irregularities of threads, caused
by extreme lightness and softness of
china silk are the characteristics of the
fabric.
Corduroy A ribbed pile fabric with a high, soft
luster. Made with extra warp or weft
threads. During weaving, the extra filling
yarns form loops or floats over the
ground threads. After weaving, the loop
threads are cut. Threads are then
brushed forming a pile.
Crepe Wide range of fabrics come under this
name like crepe de chine, crepe
charmeuse, crepe-back satin etc., they
have pebbly texture and made with high
twist yarn.
Denim Traditionally a 3/1 warp – faced twill
fabric made from yarn-dyed warp and
undyed weft yarn.
Drill A twill fabric of similar construction to
denim but usually piece dyed.