History of Costume: Pre-Historic - 20th Century

Fashion History 
Assignment
Michelle Allena
2nd year International Fashion Business
Esmod Jakarta
2
ORIGINAL STATEMENT
I here to declare my paperwork with
the title “ Story Behind :
The ‘IT’ Bag, Watch, and Shoes “
is my original paperwork.
Any material obtained from other

sources has been credited.
If in the future my work proven to be

nor original. I give permission for
the school to retract my paperwork.
Date : December 13th, 2018

Signature :
Michelle Allena
3
Introduction
The History have to be learned in order to understand about the
idea of costume itself. What is the real deal in making clothes and
how it became so important as a way to show off. For people to not
make the same mistakes as our past. Human is the sole influence in
fashion industry, it is only appropriate to have a researched
opinion about it. To live effectively and to know the evolution of
why a historical events happened.
Unfortunately, the sources of information is mainly based on the

internet which makes it not completely valid and is affected by
people’s opinion throughout the year. And some era didn’t leave
many legacies, covered by things, destroyed or even gone. Which
leads to educational guesses by historians experts.
timeline
Pre-History 004
History 005
Comparison 011
Ancient Egypt 015
History 016
Comparison 039
Mesopotamia 042
History 043
Comparison 054
Ancient Greece 057
History 058
Comparison 072
Ancient Rome 076
History 077
Comparison 093
Early Asian Culture 095
History 096
Comparison 114
The Byzantine Empire 117
History 119
Comparison 142
Nomads & Barbarian 144
History 145
Comparison 152
Europe in Middle Ages 155
History 157
Comparison 183
15th Century 185
History 188
Comparison 202
16th Century 204
History 205
Comparison 223
|Pre-history.
Pre-history
The idea of fashion itself is made from the era which Cro-Magnon born. People do care about their appearances,
they wanted to look good and presentable even from the prehistoric era. Not only that, in this era you could see
that their improvement on how they select their material sources, the tools to make them, until how they wear it
to show their status. It all began as a way to survive, but ended up being a tool to boast their ‘wealth’. They
even exchanged craft skill ideas with other territories in order to be better.
Strong hunters took advantages of animals around them. A way to make

the hunt easier is to “disguise” themselves with animal’s fur. This
is where the idea of clothing begins.
They also made tools from bones and stones to cut and separate things
like meat, vegetable fibers, and many more.
Another evidence is thebone needle
that was found on Siberia. The needle is made
from animal’s bone that they’ve captured.
Cro-Magnon is the one who invent this tool to
get more fitted garments.
This needle is made to

assemble the animals hide.
Animals skins are perforated
and attached to one another
using the bone needle with
hide string as their yarn.
this is a reinterpretation of the
prehistoric clothing .
The Venus of Willendorf

The first credible evidence is ‘The
Venus of Willendorf’ it is a woman
who suffer obesity. Many people
argued whether it is a head piece, Here’s some interpretation of what she was
hair do, basketry, or woven hat. She wearing. As we can see, in this period, hair
also wear some accessories attached was never really long both for men or women.
to her wrists.
Second one is the Venus of Brassempouy .
Interpreted as a wig, hood, or just a hair. However, the
reconstruction is imagined as both heavy net millinery and
braided hair.
Later on at the Gravettien
Civilization a new reinterpretation
of Venuše kostenkienu or Venus of the
bones is made. As we can see, the
accessories wrapped her body as well
as her wrists.
Both of the Venus sculpture indicates

that people do care about their looks
and is wearing accessories to
complete their appearances.
Venuše kostenkienu
Bog peoples are a proof of people from pre-historic care about their hair as they
are found with their hairdo, their nails were trimmed nicely, some might have used hair gel.
Bog people are those who’s found in peat bogs,
believed are people who’s volunteered/forced to be
a sacrifice for some sort of ceremony.
Tribal attire were used to show spirituality and status for ceremony and head chief. It was used with a purpose and
some sense of belonging or we could say to show off. As we can see from the bradshaw rock painting, the attributes,
accessories, used by them.
tatt0o
Evidence of male body decoration is more elusive, but it seems very likely that
early man also decorated his body. Given the examples of primitive peoples who
survived into the modern era, including the Aborigines in Australia and Native
Americans in North America, who use elaborate patterns of decoration for many
occasions, scientists believe that it is likely that early man did so as well.
The body was likely painted in order to provide camouflage while hunting or for
ritual or social occasions. They may also have used other forms of decoration
such as tattooing or scarification, in which small cuts are made in the skin to
create permanent scars in patterns.
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comparisons
Pre-historic loin cloth

have a similar silhouette
comparisons
but the function of it is
different as from
prehistoric it was used for
underwear, meanwhile the
new reinterpretation is
used as an additional item
for the dress. But both of Mary Katrantzou’s Spring
them have the same function Summer 2015 London Fashion
to covering the vital part. Week
The pre-historic pants and

the Urban Outfitters are
both made by leather and
have the shape of what we
call now a days ‘jogger
pants’ as they are both
tightened by the waist as Black leather sweatpants by
well as the ankle. Urban Outfitters
comparisons
comparisons
As you can see

the pre-historic
pants have some
linings on the
ankle part and
Headwear comparison, adidas’s track
even though it pants also have
doesn’t have a same some linings Adidas Original Apparel CLR84
material, you can see too. Challenger Track Pants
its similarities in
style and how it is
worn. The headpiece
was probably made from
animal’s teeth.
Meanwhile the modern
interpretation was
made luxuriously by Gucci crystal Headpiece
Gucci with crystals. Pre-Fall 2018 Collection
comparisons comparisons
Foot wear comparison

“Princetown Horsebit slipper
– Gucci. Made from natural
long hair goat. Both are made
from natural animal’s fur and
even though it have more addition, the
have the similar color as
“Princetown Horsebit slipper – Gucci big belt silhouettes is still seen on
well as similar shape.
Rick Owen SISYPHUS F/W 2018 collection.
comparisons
The way they do the body tattoo-ing is the same as they hurt themselves to make a permanent figure on
their bodies.
16
|Ancient Egypt.
Ancient Egypt
Egyptian life is famous for their typical culture and artistic. They live
in an area surrounded by Nile river which had fertile soil that make them
rich. It is an oasis in the deserted area of northeastern Africa.
pyramid
They create these mud brick to
built their houses, planted
their own food and doing
trading for some food that
they couldn’t produce.
Egyptians had a very
structured social pyramid.
Some are farmers, craftsmen,
scribes, and nobles. They
created these culture and made
many historical events and
buildings. Pyramid is one of
them. It was built as a tomb
for their King and the biggest
pyramid is Pyramid of Khufu
that took 23 years to build.
ma’at
Even though they are very divided by their social classes and hierarchy, Egyptian’s noble acted
as their people’s God with providing job and food in exchange for their comfort. People believes
on the balance and harmony of the culture, ma’at. They believes that God have blessed them with
the land and given them a King to rule them all.
Egyptian Gods
Egypt is also famous with their
stories, Horus, Osiris and his sister-
wife Isis who also have a brother, set
that is jealous of him. the iconic
rulers including amun.
The Egyptians were ruled 3000 years over than 300 rulers. The rulers, as we
know are considered as the protector of people that become the messenger
between humanity and hundreds of God they’ve worship. They believe if these
rulers dead, they will soon become God and that is why they built the
pyramid as a way to help them in their after life. This is one of the
reason why they wrapped the bodies with linens and then closed it with a
place which have its own artistic meaning to the modern era.
Not forget to mention that Egyptians found the measurement
mathematic mathematical with cubit as well as the time measurement such as
24 hour per day and solar calendar which states 365 days per
year.
The most recognisable Egyptian
ruler in the modern day
‘Tutankhamun’
who reigned from c. 1336-c.
1327 BCE. He was originally
named ‘ Tutankhaten’ to
reflect his father but then he
changed them to honour an
ancient God named Amun. He
restore all the ancient
temples, and returning the
capital to Thebes. But he
unfortunately had a short life
therefore he have the intact
grandeur of his tomb filled
with gold and that made him
the most iconic icon for his
era.
Egyptian jewellery use lots of gold to show wealth and status. Sometimes
they use stones or ceramics. Carnelian, turquoise, and lapis lazuli are the main colours. The
artist-craftsmen who made jewellery mix and match many compositions and usually have strictly
symmetrical reflects.
carnelian turquoise
gold and symmetrical
lapis lazuli from this stone as seen on

Tutankhaten’s mask
scarab lotus flower isis knot Horus eye
As the Egyptian strongly believe in their cult, the motifs were usually taken inspirations from the Gods, kings, and
beliefs, like scarab, lotus flower, Isis knot, Horus eye, Falcon, Serpent, vulture, and Sphinx. Sacred emblems such as the
scarab beetle and the asp were worn by priests and royalty.
serpent vulture sphinx

falcon
Necklaces were divided into two
kinds. First one is called menat, it
was meant to show exclusivity and
only worn by the pharaohs or the
rulers. The one that was worn by
Tutankhamen have a layered bead
necklace made by variety of beads
with one pendant at the middle. The
second one called usekh. This is more
widely used by people from variant
hierarchy. Layered as well but more
like vulture-shaped.
MENAT USEKH
Even though the culture has spread for 3000 years it came to an end with Persians and roman empire’s
invasions. Therefore, these culture will have a great effect on greece and rome’s culture later on.
shenti
All people from all hierarchy wearing a
clothing that was called shenti. But people
from higher ups or nobles have a stage to
make it stick out, usually symbolise
erection. they also wear loin cloth which is
a triangular piece of cloth worn by
commoners, nobilities and royalties. Slaves
were only allowed to wear it after the
formation of new kingdom.
kalas and sheath
Women usually use kalas, some men might have
use this too. Other than that, some might use
sheath like dress that is hanged by a
shoulder strap. That is used by Egyptian
people from middle until old Kingdom.
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Some upper class, or those who could afford it, they use beaded dresses . Nudity in
Egyptian era are not a taboo as they had hot weather. The clothing didn’t have any function other than
fashion. This proofs that people wear clothing for fashion. This is another proof that Egyptian loves
fashion.
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30
Egyptian dress of New Kingdom ,
18th dynasty. King Tutankhamen wearing a
double skirt, long and full, with the upper
one doubled and gathered in front; Queen
Ankhesenamen in a draped robe tied at the
breast and leaving the right arm free. Detail
from the back of the throne of Tutankhamen
Ancient Egyptian children

did not wear clothes until they
were about six years old when they
would wear the same clothes as men
and women.
Wealthy children wore similar

clothing to their parents'.
Egyptians shaved their children's
heads, except for a long section of
hair called a youth lock. Children
also wore makeup, including kohl
(grinded stibnite). 31
Both men and women use wigs or beads but they do not always wear them.
It was usually made out of human hair, horse hair, and sometimes vegetable-fibre.
important person usually wear wispy beard at the end of his chin, dyed
red, and braid gold. Some pharaohs might attached with ribbon or leather. beard
signified an event. But they usually wear fake beards or removable beards.
Having a great accessories and

vibrant colored head accessory
might show some noble status,
but having a shaved head also
means someone important such as
priests. Shaved head used by
men and woman as it is cleaner,
using pumice stone to make
“Head Lice”
blue flat hat
The nemes headdress, is

exclusively worn by the kings and
royals, but mostly kings. It might
connected with Re-Khepri at sunrise
and used to represented spin or The blue tapered headdresses thats flat on the top and slightly widened from
falcon. Nemes is made from starched the head up above. decorated with cobra as seen on the paintings. The most
linen and have stripes as well. It is iconic person wearing the flat crown is Nefertiti as she was claimed to be
a headwear. the most beautiful women that also translates in her name “the beautiful one
has come”
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Khepresh is
a blue coloured crown
with gold plat and
uraeus (the snake).
Many believes it was
made by leather or
stiffened cloth, or
somewhat natural
fabric like flex.
The crown usually worn by pharaoh for

certain ceremony but it is mainly
used for them who goes to the war. to
pursue the victory of a war. a sign
of military hero.
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cobra
and vulture
A cobra used as a symbol
of Lower Egypt.
A vulture was a symbol
for Upper Egypt
(used together on royal
headdresses to symbolise
the unification of Lower
and Upper Egypt
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make up and cosmetics were heavily applied to both
gender. We know because of the way they buried the dead along
with comforts and luxuries. They mixed mineral with mineral
water and gum to make it last all day. Just like us, they
applied their make up with brushes and sticks.
Rouge on their cheeks, red coloured ointment on their lips,

henna for their nails and feet. Uniquely they draw their
veins and breasts with blue paint. giving a gold paint on the
tip of their nipples.
Not forget to mention their iconic eye make up. Green

eyeshadow that sources from powdered malachite with black or
grey eyeliner. Powdered antimony, carbon, and oxide of copper
are the source to a latter of substance called kohl or
galena.
perfumes
How someone smelled designed social,
political and religious meaning. Egyptians
have a long history of varied and exotic
perfumes that determined one's class and
defined certain periods of Egyptian
history. Not only this, perfumes also
demonstrated the presence of various gods.
They used to make perfumes from many different plants,

flowers and wood fragments along with the addition of
required fats and oils. Ancient Egyptians often used
moringa, linseed, sesame and castor oils in their perfumes.
Some extracts of almond and olive oil were also used to
increase the quality and pungency of the perfumes.
37
Most of Egyptian people were barefooted or not wearing any footwear .
But those who have ranks wore sandals when they go outdoor. As we can see on
picture below, it was Tutankhamen’s footwear that have survived all these years.
It have some pattern might reflects on the current era. As for the shoes, it have
gold coloured or colourful beads embroidered to the shoes. Both of the footwear
have soles.
sandals made of woven reed, grass or leather.
The standers from consisted of a thing passing between
the first and second toes and attached to a bar passing
over the instep. In the Nineteenth Dynasty a style with
an upturned toe appeared, a forerunner of the Turkish
slipper. Among the earliest examples of this type are
the delicate, red leather sandals found in the cosmetic
chest of the lady Tutu, wife of the scribe Ani.
made from palm leaves, papyrus, or leather.
39
comparisons
Zoe oxford in
sequin, Ariel
style! Enter
Zoe Mermaid.
Both have some gold ornaments

over it and could be
reinterpreted as sequins.
Dolce and Gabbana Fall 2011 jeweled

silk embroidery pumps dolce gabbana
comparisons
both have the tassel Hattie Carnegie
at the end and also "Egyptian Revival"
decorative beads on Lotus Pendant
the pendant Necklace
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comparisons
Have the same make up as cleopatra and also hair decoration-beads,

colours and pattern as well. The bird’s wings also seen as well as
the cobra.
comparisons
comparisons
Mummy like wraps

were taken by
christian Dior as
an inspiration,
made with white Christian Dior Haute Couture
fabric. Spring 2004
Originally inspired by the

flat crown so that produce
the same silhouettes and beyonce 2018’s coachella outfit
shape. made by Balmains
42
comparisons
The uraeus worn by both but in
different way. one as a decorative
the other as a bandana.
Valentino Spring summer 2015
43
|Mesopotamia.
Mesopotamia
An area which is located by the great Tigris and Euphrates river
system. It have many empire that comes and goes but the most
influenced empire were Sumer, Akkad, Assyria, and Babylonia.
As people now, fashion is not a island, it is a response, Fashion

changes when world changes or when it needs to change.
But in Mesopotamia, not many change.

Their sense of fashion doesn’t have
to change.
Just like Egyptian, exotic colour is important. Once again, clothing is not
used in a survival way. it is used to signify something else. for fashion and
for a way to show off how rich and trendy they are. It is worn to show
status, to show business, and social structure.
Alabaster head of a man wearing a turban,
Killing lions was a royal sport as well as their duty and prerogative. from Adab, Akkadian period,
We know that Mesopotamia was alive with colour. She must have been ablaze with colour because exotic
colour was so important to the Mesopotamians, the Assyrians, the Babylonians, the whole culture of Sumer.
They had incredible gold headdresses, and earrings, and necklaces. And we know they wore a lot of makeup.
This was an exotic look.
46
they found agriculture system as well as some sort of board game.
On the right is Mesopotamia Lamassu are human-headed, eagle-winged, bulls or lions

who once shielded cities in Mesopotamia. They have been thought to be very strong
animals, and functioned both as a clear reminder of the king’s supreme authority and
symbols of security for all people. and up above is their invention on
cylinder seals.
47
The dress from Babylonians and Assyrians evolved into the
modernised dress for Sumerian and Akkadians. Both genders
wear basic garments made from one piece material called
tunic and shawl.

The tunic could be knee-length or ankle-length. either
way they had short sleeves and and a round neckline. On
top of it, they usually drape one or more shawl varying
in promotions and sizes. Usually decorated by fringe or
tassel at the end. Lastly, to fixed the shape, a broad
woollen belts were added. They prefer contrasting colour.
Other than fringe and tassel, they added more embroidery
or printed geometric motifs to enrich the outfit.
what differ the women and men were the underwear. Women wore
a shirt skirt meanwhile men wore a loincloth inspired by any
other era.
Another differ is the drape for men, the fabric was arranged
so that the fullness was at the rear, leaving the right, or
sword, arm free.
During the Sumerian civilisation both sexes use wrap around sheep skin skirt called kaunake
that are pinned in a cute high place from waist to knees, or for more important person, down till the
ankles. But men wore it just under the nipple meanwhile women wore it under the their arms. The upper part
of then body was bare skinned. Later on they change the material into wool fabric instead of sheep skin.
long cloaks were worn, and materials for garments and head coverings included felted wool and leather.
Many people differ about the theres skirt’s material
whether it is a scalloped shaped cloth, leaves, or
feathers. But all agree on the structure that is
wrapped and then tailored.
They love fringes. The fringes
reflects their status. Royals and land
owners have different fringes.
Covering their body with tunic which
material was embroiled silk of course
fringe and gold used to produce the
flashy effect on their clothing. Color
importance has growth more than ever.
In addition with motifs, like flowers
that could be printed or embroidered.
Or the pattern could be created by
filigree.
Ur-Nanshe, King of Lagash

Royal headdress have variety of
shapes, but one of them are
pleated crown that had

dependent lapped at the rear. The rich
ornaments were high quality therefore
it was heavy. Usually worn with
earrings that are made out of gold.
Just like Egyptian, they have
large wigs ready to wear

when they need it. They originally
have long hair that was curled nicely
and ringleted. Treatments on the hair
was important as they use perfume,
oils, and black dye.
Beards always a sign of wisdom

as they are older and wiser. Many has
grown a long natural wrinkly or curled
and treated by oils to make the beard
seems wrinkly. Beards were important.
But just like any other era, some of

them had clean shaved head. Shows the Ashurnasirpal II, relief from Nimrūd;
important person such as priests or
any high status.
bulbous hairdo . fertile crescent
2 buns sides of ears reflect the gate of ishtar.
nimrud
The famous gold crown, Nimrud

that was found in the tomb of Once again the jewellery was made to show
Queen Yaba, the wife of status and wealth. worn by royals and
Tiglath-Pileser III. It is those who could afford it. Other than
made by popular and most status and wealth it somehow shows
valuable material with trellis spirituality. Flowers were such an
vine on top and several important motif in Mesopotamian,
lapis-lazuli grapes hanging at Assyrian, and Babylonian fashion. Flowers
every end. Decorated by four- wouldn’t be complete without the leaves
winged robed figures that is and branches.
standing on rows of
pomegranates and rosettes.
This
workman
proves
ship
the
and
riches of the empire.
exquisite
vanished jewellery
53
Puabi is the
name of one of the
important person in
Sumerian city of ur
(the First Dynasty of
Ur) which isa an
Akkadian name that
translates “word of
my father”. It also
called Shubad due to
Sir Charles Leonard
Woolley’s mistake.
Until now, her status
is still in dispute
as some of historian
labeled her as
“queen” because of
the title of her tomb
that says “nin” or
“eresh” that means
queen or priests.
Either way, we know
that she had a great
influence in trading
and in her society.
54
body decoration
Both men and women wore earrings,
brooches, hair ornaments, and necklaces
on daily basis, but they wear even more
jewellery for celebrations or events. The
upper class of Sumerians would wear gold
silvers, and bronze materials not forget
to mention Lapis lazuli which was a very
popular gemstone thats more valuable than
gold. Many other valuable material was
obtain through trading with Egypt such as
seals, scarabs, and variety of stone.
Other famous material is the red
Carnelian beads. Not only those, but as
we know they also wear flowers filigrees,
amulets, ankle bracelets, and cylinder
seals.
As for their make up and beauty, they

keep their eye make up into some kind of
shell. they press the powdered make up
into the shell. As we know, the
importance of colour, they might be
wearing a bright and contrast coloured
make up, especially eyeliner as we see on
many discovered sculpture.
comparisons
Footwear for both sexes was made

from fabric or soft leather in the
form of sandals or boots.
comparisons
The two bun hairstyle is very
similar. The placement
exactly a little down with Chanel S/S 2016 Paris fashion
bun shaped beside the ear. week. Kendall Jenner as the
There’s no doubt of the model.
reinterpretation.
comparisons
comparisons
the scallop shape on both
figures. The colour and also SPRING 2014 READY-TO-WEAR
the material looks exactly the Alexander McQueen
same.
Fringe ended on the material 57

as it hanged on the dress. The
placement is similar as well. Herve Leger Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-To-Wear
57
As you can see the straps is placed

between the thumb and the next toe
after thumb. and then pulled to the Both consists of eyeshadow with
upper part that continues to wrap shell-shaped packaging.
both foot.
Prada_Spring summer 2013 Collection Tarte Be A Mermaid & Make Waves
58
|Ancient Greece.
Ancient Greece
Greek mythology is very dramatic and have unusual
visual elements, medusa who have snakes as their
hair. Clothing in Ancient Greece was made very
differently to the manufacturing process of today. It
was usually made out of large rectangular pieces of
cloth, and fastened to the body. Sewing of the cloth
was not very common, if it was used at all.
The clothes were made by women, by the mother, her daughters, and female slaves. As the Ancient Greeks were very proud
of the City or State they lived in, the clothing was often decorated to represent where they lived.The Ancient Greek
language includes the forms of Greek used in ancient Greece and the ancient world from around the 9th century BC to the
6th century AD. It is often roughly divided into the Archaic period (9th to 6th centuries BC), Classical period (5th
and 4th centuries BC), and Hellenistic period (Koine Greek, 3rd century BC to the 4th century AD). It is antedated in
the second millennium BC by Mycenaean Greek and succeeded by medieval Greek.
minoan
Many paintings show that both of gender wore
loincloth for protection when they do sports
just like Egyptian mens. Minoan men wore
skirts that have variant length from short
thigh-length with tassel and longer one that
stops at knee or ankle. It is very similar to
Mesopotamian kaunakes.
As for women, they have variety of shapes but
all of them are full length.
the famous bell skirt that was fitted at the
hips and then flare all over to the hem. Made
by layers of ruffles till it reaches the
ground.
Their main fiber was wool, but they also have

some linen as they traded with Egyptians.
Most of their clothing had a great dying and
weaving product.
Minoan fresco: priest-king

Priest-king, detail from a Late Minoan fresco,
61
minoan clothing
Women, too, wore skirts, but the
construction was quite different from
those of men. Minoan are known to be
the first to do fitted and the first
one to do body changer by suppressing
the waist to form hourglass form.
Scholars propose three different skirt
types. All are full length. One is a
bell-shaped skirt fitted over the hips
and flaring to the hem. It is usually
worn with some kind of decorative apron
as the overgarment that might be worn
for religious rituals or as a evolution
of loincloth.
The top part of women’s skirts are

usually fitted bodice that is nicely
cut and sewn. with tight fitted sleeves
that were tailored before or fastened
when they wore it. The bodice were
fastened to expose their bosom. But
some argue that it is worn by sheer
fabric to not fully expose them.
Like the other, they use tunics as

well. Men can choose between long or
short length meanwhile women only wore
the long one. what makes them different
is the woven pattern and braid
trimmings.
62
minoan headwear
Men and women are both depicted
with long or short curly hair.
elaborately coffee hair
accessorised with bronzer, leather
and gold bands and ribbon strings
of beads.
A variety of headwear can be seen

in Minoan art, much of which may
have been used in religious rituals
or to designate status. Women are
often shown with their hair
carefully arranged and held in
place with decorative nets or
fillets (bands). Men were usually
wear feathered fitted headdress.
63
mycenaean
There is little difference in mycenaean females
costume from Minoan female costume, besides the
fact that they occasionally covered their breasts
with some kind of inner garment, a bodice
structured to cover breasts, or a piece of fabric
tucked into their tight fitting, scallop shaped
bodices. The breasts covering was probably
connected to fashion fad than modesty
Men wear structured tunic with sleeves before the
elbow that was nicely trimmed around the neck. The
bigger difference is seen in menswear. abandoned
the solitary loincloth in favour of elbow length,
trimmed, boat neck tunics. The tunic is the
foundation for clothing throughout greek, roman,
dark age, and medieval eras, and be worn as an
undergarment. Amazingly, tunic is still worn until
tis day in the fashion industry.
greek fashion item
Greek main fashion items were
separated into 3 items. All of them
is loose and flowing, hardly even
sewn together. The main fabric was
linen or wool depends on the climate.
Women would wear a veil as an
overgarment if they stepped out of
their house. But it is rarely
happened as they were not encouraged
to go outdoor. Quite modern in its
outlook as far as men were concerned
to extent that male nudity was not
really a big deal. Guys can go nude
women not, this idea is the same as
it is nowadays.
chiton
This were worn by both men and women as a unisex item and was very
popular. Usually worn with himation or without, depends on the
occasion.
The belt was also worn with chiton that usually called zoster.
The doric chiton consisted 2 piece of cloth which were rectangular
in shape and was worn long.
The ionic chiton differed from the doric chiton in terms of the
overfold. overfold was worn longer on the doric chiton and clipped
on arms. Meanwhile doric were clipped on the shoulder.
Woman wearing the Greek chiton and himation.

Marble statue from the Nereid Monument,
Xanthus, Lycia, Anatolia
66
For a long chiton, the length of the material has to be the same as your height. When you fold it
in half it should reach from finger-tip to finger-tip.
Sew along the side seam. Join the top edge at intervals with safety-pins or brooches, or by
sewing. Don't forget to leave holes for your head and arms to go through. Slip it on over your
head.
Tie a belt round your waist and pull up the extra material so that it hangs over the belt.
Peplos
Worn by women that was styled based on the wearer’s
height with the material of wool. It contains tubular
shaped cloth that will be folded inside out. The top
part will be gathered at the waist and the bottom part
have the length of wearer’s ankles. On the right
shoulder, theres pleated that’s secured by tapes or
pins. They also use patterns such as checks, flowers,
waves, polkadot, and stripes.
Man (left) wearing the

himation draped over one
shoulder; the two women are
dressed in the peplos.
Take a large piece of material (like an old sheet). Its

length has to be your height plus at least 18", and
when you fold it in half it should reach from elbow to
elbow. Fold over the top 18 " or so. Wrap it round you,
with one side open. Fasten it at the shoulders with
safety-pins or brooches. Tie a belt round your waist.
Pull the extra material up so that it hangs over the
belt and so that you don't trip up.
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Himation
this is an important garment made out of lighter rectangle wool
fabric, worn by men as an outdoor wear with nothing underneath.
It will be worn with tunic if the weather is cold. The
silhouettes was loose and flowing acted as a cloak or veil to be Women's dress from the Hellenistic Age,
worn over the chiton for women to be worn with peplos or chiton, showing the himation draped over the head and
known as achiton. covered by a conical straw hat.
69
70
Ancient Greeks fastened their clothes withfibulae.
Fibulae, which resembled safety pins, secured the large
panels of fabric that Greeks draped around their bodies.
Although they began as a necessity for holding clothing in
place, fibulae later became decorative fashion items.
headwear
Youth wearing a Phrygian cap, marble,

Greek mens hat named petasus. Artemis as a huntress;
Roman copy of a Greek original,
71
Armour usually wore a long helmet
with the almond shape and holes on the
eyes. Breastplates were worn to duplicate
male’s torso as a protection. Of course
they use shields and a leg protector. As we
know from earlier they wore a high stylised
feather plus as their headwear.
women’s headwear
Girls have a really long hair that have lots of hairstyles such as
curled and braided, but later on the most common style is bun. Many
accessories were involved like beads, peals, and laurel leaves as
well.
Diadem worn like a tiara, looks like a top of grecian temple
architecture.
Slaves girls are told to cut their hair short
men’s hair on the early ancient Greece are short and many had grown
beard as people still thought beard symbolise wisdom, but on the
hellenistic era, beards went out of style so it will be clean
shaven.
The most popular necklace was made from gold pieces, often hollow or
filled with resin that have a shape of acorns, amphorae, and beautiful
rosettes that sometimes alternated with stones or vitreous paste. A
bracelet with serpent shape was originated and stay popular until the
roman period. Not only for bracelet but rings as well.
jewellery
body decoration
they also wore a gold deaden that was embellished with blue,
green, red, and white enamelled flowers.
Greek jewellery was very fine and was, especially in the later
centuries, worn in abundance. Greek snake bracelet
Greek gold spiral bracelet of two snakes whose
Both sexes used perfume, and women employed extensive makeup to tails are tied in a Hercules knot that is
give brilliance to their eyes, lashes, and cheeks. decorated with a garnet in a bezel setting;
footwear
Just like any other era where not everyone wore a footwear. They usually barefooted indoors. But many have
wear leather sandals or boots which were laced up the front and fur-lined.
comparisons
They are a exact twins of each

K. Jacques strappy lace up
other, from the color and the
sandals
laces, an leather material.
comparisons
It have the same shapes as the
short height on the top part Carlos Miele Fall 2004 Modern Day
and the wide-trimmed hat. Petasos Hat
75
The pattern used is

the similar, and Kaufman Franco at the premiere of
both are bright Dreamworks’ Transformers: Revenge Of
coloured. the Mar’s The Fallen held at Mann Village Theatre
collections are The dress featuring the drapes and is
inspired by Mar Katrantzou spring clearly inspired by Greek.
Mesopotamia as well. summer 2017
76
Both made out of gold and

have flowers pattern ad Same pattern, colour, and vibes.
motifs. The gold tattoo worn at festivals
like coachella.
Chanel cruise 2018. Paris

fashion week
77
|Ancient Rome.
Ancient Rome
Rome was founded by Romulus and Remus, twin sons of Mars, the god of war.Politics in the early republic was
marked by the long struggle between patricians and plebeians (the common people), who eventually attained some
political power through years of concessions from patricians, including their own political bodies, the
tribunes, which could initiate or veto legislation.Rome’s military conquests led directly to its cultural
growth as a society, as the Romans benefited greatly from contact with such advanced cultures as the
Greeks.Romans would eventually adopt much of Greek art, philosophy and religion. After 450 years as a republic,
Rome became an empire in the wake of Julius Caesar’s rise and fall in the first century B.C. The long and
triumphant reign of its first emperor, Augustus, began a golden age of peace and prosperity; by contrast, the
empire’s decline and fall by the fifth century A.D. was one of the most dramatic implosions in the history of
human civilization
Dinner Togas
Greek have a great influence on Roman as many Mediterranean region was under the influence from Greece. It is
almost impossible to differentiate Greek and Roman style. But Roman dresses have more element to differ the
status of the wearer.
Roman have a special garment worn by men for dinner parties. It is difficult to stretch out in toga so they
invent this to eat more comfortably.
80
Tunic, togas, stole
IMPERIAL TOGA
Tunics hold such an important role at the ancient Rome. Tunic grow in popularity in both men and women that will be worn
beneath their togas or stole.
Togas worn by men is well structured unlike the Greece style. The republican toga and imperial toga are very different.
The imperial toga that was worn by caesar and his family were wider, had more fabrics, and had more spectacular
silhouettes. What really amazing is their culture where no one other than Romanian could wear a toga and from the 2nd
century BCE women are restricted from wearing togas, except for prostitute.
They use fashion as a way to show who you are and where you belong to
Toga virlis worn only by toga picta worn by triumphant toga candida worn by higher
toga praetexta worn by
young men and lower member generals or presiding over member of senate and have a
slightly higher member of
of the senate. white gladiatorial games. sometimes bleached white tunic.
senate.
natural toga. were embroidered.
toga trabea were worn only by the

emperor or selected royal families
toga pulla worn for indicated in its reddish purple
mourning or crisis color. It is expensive as it is
that shows in their hard to find. It was taken from a
dark coloured toga. mucous secretion of the murex sea
snail. later on the color is known
as imperial purple, royal purple,
or tyrian purple.
Undergarment for both gender
are loincloth, tunic or tunica. It was just a
simple rectangle fabric that was sewn into
tubular shape and will be pinned around the
shoulders just like Greek chiton. Women also
wear a strophium or breast cloth arments to
cover the loins, known as subligacula or
subligaria, The Vindolanda tablets found in
Great Britain confirm this fashion at the time
of the Roman Empire, when a subligaculum might
be made of leather. Farm workers wore
loincloths.
83
Sagum
They used a lot of chain mail that doesn't
shine. They also made scale armor that was
sewn together on a linen/leather backing.
Scale armor does shine a little. They also
made metal armor with leather skins. although
the ancient Romans loved the ornate and
glittery, their armor wasn’t.
Roman military being as if they were "born ready armed." as they

were in a period that always prepare for warfare. Roman’s life is
solely exist for military only. The sagum was a red wool cape worn
by ordinary soldiers. This term entered into the lexicon of
symbols, and when people talked about "putting on the sagum" they
meant "going to war."
84
children
Most children wore simple, belted tunics. As mentioned before, boys wore tunics with a garnet-coloured
stripe. Girls wore a simple tunic with a belt at the waist. When they went outside, they wore a second
tunic that reached their feet. Boys wore a tunic down to their knees. It was white, with a crimson
border.
85
women’s clothing
As for women, they wear tunica intimate which is a long or short sleeved
tunic that have more intimacy worn beneath the stola, a long dress made out
of linen with 3/4 sleeves. Lastly, they wear palla which is a cloak that you
wrapped around with the rectangular shape varying in textiles and weight
depends on the weather and occasion. Not forget to mention, they wear some
sort of belt to shape the whole thing.
grippina the Elder
Imperial Roman toga on Tiberius Agrippina the Elder wearing the stola and
palla,
hair styles
'less is more', for Ancient Roman women 'more was more'
Hairstyle, hairdos, and fads hold such an important role for roman women. They usually have a removable hair so they
could follow the trends. They live based on what Seneca said “We live not according to reason, but according to
fashion”. Therefore, most of them were usually done up.
The titulus which had strands the severan made by wigs and
the flavian which have a hair pieces
of hair pulled into a top hair pieces and was the most
at the front part of the hair.
knot at the back. popular hairdo.
hair treatment
Because of the damaged hair, they also use some oils to make them
healthier. They also use a certain oils to make them curly and
easier to shape n order to follow the trends.
headwear
Roman women or men usually curl their hair with a tool called
calamistrum that consisted or a hollow metal outer cylinder
and have a smaller cylinder inside it. They would wrap the
hair just like the picture and then heated it on fire to make
the curl. hairnets especially gold hair net and pins were in
common usage too. Poorer women would have used wooden pins,
while the aristocracy used gold, ivory, crystal, silver or
painted bone. The pins were decorated with carvings of the
gods, or beads and pendants.
Just like women in modern world, they also love looking at their
face through mirrors made with polished metal instead of glass.
Other than that is black obsidian that also used by oracles in a
form of divination that usually called mirror scrying. They also
loved necklaces, pins, earrings, bracelets and friendship rings.
Pearls were their favourites. They love to coloured their hair with
golden-red colour.
90
Bulla Children usually wear a locket that was given by
then at birth called bulla. Believed to have some sort of power
to protect them from the evil. worn on a chain, cord, or strap.
Girls usually wore them until their marriage, meanwhile boys keep
them until they are become a citizen. If the men won an award or
special honours, he might wear it again to protect him from the
evil jealously of men or gods.
91
Make up Chalk powder,
charcoal and saffron were used
as cosmetics. But Roman was more
famous with their skin cares.
Their pure white skin is a
demarcation of the leisure
class, was the most important
feature of Roman beauty. They
weren’t naturally fair-skinned
and spent their time outside
with oils on their faces,
requiring whitening makeup to
fit their model of beauty. They
wore beauty masks before
applying make up. The most well
known skin care was made from
sweat of sheep’s wool and it was
applied before bed.
Others were basics like juice,
seeds, horns, honey, but they
could go crazy and wear
placenta, animal urine, incense,
ground oyster shells, and many
other ingredients.
92
Caesar cut Men do not really care about hair as
they were a military people. As we can see in ceasar cut it
have short haircut with a little bangs brushed upfront.
footwear
Unlike other era most Romans wore sandals indoor.
Gladiators were in fact not wearing gladiator sandals
but they wore leather shoes that have soles and laced to
hold their structure. Other than that, they also wear
leg protector tied around their lower legs, usually made
out of leather.
Not only cloth, footwear also states a person's

position in society. Women wore closed shoes
that were either white, green or yellow and
decorated by pearls. Women's street shoes were
made of leather, like a man’s. Men wore sandals.
Patricians wore red sandals with an ornament at
the back. Senators wore brown footwear with
black straps which wound round the leg to mid-
calf, where the straps were tied. Consuls wore
white shoes, and soldiers, heavy boots.
The drape which

allows the pleats to
fall covering most of
Both are overgarment
the legs and the
that have white
similarity in putting
vera wang spring summer 2018 coloured fabric with Versace spring summer 2015
the fabric on one
ready to wear some frame linings. menswear
shoulder.
95
DOLCE AND GABBANA SPRING

Both have the same structure and isabel marants ss 2015
2014 MILAN FASHION WEEK. The
probably same colour and material
ornaments embroidered to the
for both upper part and soles,
clothing and its corset
even though the bottom part was
shape represents Ancient
hight developed.
Rome and clearly inspired by
this era.
96
|Early Asian Culture.
Chinese clothing has a long-term history. For the
ancient Chinese, the purpose of clothes was not just for
protecting and covering the body, but for showing
profound meanings which prevailed in society. Thus,
observing the development of clothes gives us a chance
to understand their society, economy, culture, and even
their mentality.
98
Early Asian Culture
Once again, clothing was to show what they have to Green for spring, red for summer, white for fall,
the society. And because of that, we could learn and black for winter. more importantly red signify
how the society, how the economy, culture, and life, happiness, and good luck. That is why they
mentality in their era. For example, yellow wore red to such a meaningful events in their life.
coloured garments made solely for emperors. Just like greek they have 3 main clothing and it
meanwhile the poor only limited to blue or black were all loose fitted and have a wide silhouettes
coloured garments. The rich use colour matches with on the sleeves.
the seasons.
“Pien-fu” is a ceremonial costume “chong p’ao” is a one piece combination of both garments. Those
consist of tunic with a matching skirt clothing that extends from pieces were sewn together and made a
or trousers that could reach the ankle. shoulders down to the heels. clothing named "shen-i”
silk
Silk, cotton, hemp, chiffon, satin, and other natural fibres have patterned motives such as birds, floral scrolls, and
asymmetrical designs were patterned to the cloth. These fabric has influenced the Western fabric. Silk is the one that
Chinese has invented. It was smooth and shiny that comes from the cocoons of a type of caterpillar, silkworm. People
were originally doesn’t prefer cotton but Mongols destroyed the sources of silk. At the end people started to love
cotton as they were warmer, softer, stronger, and cheaper than silk, especially for winter clothes.
Ruqun was made for women that have many
varieties but they consists of ru, a blouse and
Qun,a wrap-around skirt. As you can see on Shenui
from Ming Dynasty. It will later called Yi(shirt)
and shang(skirt) as the two parts of the clothing
were cut separately but then sewn together at the
waist.
101
hanfu Mianfu the
emperors‟ ceremonial
enthronement dress.
(Han Dynasty 206
People like darker B.C.-220 A.D.) The
coloured then court dress is now
light coloured as obsolete in the
the dark coloured modern age, but it
one were worn more still could be an
frequently on inspiration for Tang
ceremonials Dynasty court dress
meanwhile the
light one was worn
for daily basis.
The first type is Informal hanfu. Han people wore

hanfu for a long time until Manchu tribe banned it
4000 years later. Only buddhist and taoist that
were allowed to wear them. They have the Y shaped
cross collar with left one upon the right without
any closure like buttons, strings, and belt.
The next type is the formal Hanfu. Formal Hanfu was
worn only at certain special occasions like
important sacrifices and religious activities or by
special people who are entitled to wear them such
as officials and emperors. Daopao/Fusha is the
traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of
formal wear in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) . It is
a full-length robe with side slits beginning below
the waist Wedding Costume
102
accessories
The Chinese accessories which appealed attention in the whole world such as style hats, parasols, earrings,
necklaces, bracelets, pendants, and fans can beautify any dress. They are usually made from jade, wood,
lacquer, and cloisonné. Dragon, bat, and crane designs was very popular as they symbolise power, blessing and
peace.
A coolie hat is a conical shaped hat made from

straw, silk, or other materials and was decorated with a
chin strap. Used as a protector from their sun and rain.
Originated from Qing Dynasty.
O i l pa p e r
umbrella
were usually made from
paper or silk that was
supported with bamboo
as the ribs. It was
later influenced Japan
and Korea. This also
influenced Western via
Silk Road.
Fan accessories was

adopted by Europe from
sixteen century and it was
a feminine ornament as
well as a personal
statement. It was worn to
add exotic vibes to the
users.
104
make up
Chinese influenced
makeup refers to
Peking Opera style
make-up. The
particularity of this
makeup is very
exaggerated Asian eyes
105
SHANG & ZHOU DYNASTIES
先秦Pre-Qin During the Shang & Zhou Dynasties, people
wore a suit of clothes, which consisted of a long
top part with a belt around the waist and a lower
part. The top part came in five primary colors:
blue, red, yellow, white and black. It had short
sleeves with a hem that dangled to the knees. Also,
the hems of the neck and sleeves would be
beautifully embroidered.
During the war time During war time, more convenient
clothes were needed, so a new type of clothing came
into being. The long top part was replaced with a
short form. The people began to wear trousers and
boots, which made it easier to move in combat. This
new type of clothing was popular at that time.
HAN
DYNASTIES
“FIRE VIRTUE”
They have specified color for every season for
example, blue for springs.Women in the Han
Dynasty dressed themselves in an outfit that
consisted of a blouse and a skirt.
Red clothing, Square sleeves, Sloping necklines.
Established a formal dress code during this
time, CICADA-LIKE HATS, JADE HANGING
DECORATIONS, RED SHOES.
QIN
DYNASTIES
Black was very
popular as they
symbolised power of
water. Armors for
common soldiers and
Emperor Qin’s
terracotta army was
famous in this era.
107
WEI, JIN, NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN DYNASTIES
Womens in this era prefer a dress with loose belts with a triangle-shaped cloth at the back of the skirt as they
want to interpret a flying bird as they walk. These clothing were more light and comfortable than Han Dynasty’s
clothing. As for men, they wore a light coloured headdresses. The smart ones use a square-shaped cloth to fix and
cover their hair. “bad hair day hat”
108
TANG DYNASTIES SONG DYNASTIES
is an era that mixed East and West which produce a brand- SIMPLE AND NATURAL.
new clothing trend. It is considered the most thriving, Once again, the color used to categorised civil officials
prosperous, and glorious period of Chinese. In textile rank. This was the time for the emergence of li xue, a
industry, a low cup, narrow sleeve, cape, clothes of school of Confucianism in idealistic philosophy. Affected
women disguise as men, high-waisted, tight-clothes, Ming by the thoughts, the clothes of Song dynasty were usually
Yi were popular. Their quality of material was fine and plain. Most of vestments were big sleeve. They used
also delicate with lustrous decorations. Women usually different colors of clothes to tell their status. Collar
wore dresses with a belt fastened above the breast. The edges and sleeve edges of clothes were decorated with
colours of dresses mostly came in red, purple, yellow and laces or embroidered patterns. As for women, Song dynasty
green. The dress would contain a low-cut bodice with a was very similar to Han Dynasty. They were long dresses
cape behind. Besides, women would put on an additional with narrow sleeves. Additionally, women would put on a
dress made of transparent silk. The kind of dress used to long-sleeved. Apart from dresses, women in Song dynasty
be underwear before the Tang dynasty. Elegant and noble wore pants as well. There was a special custom of foot-
clothing. Sleeves became looser and larger. Long skirt binding at that time. The Song people considered foot-
and shawl binding a symbol of beauty and elegance. Therefore, women
HAIRSTYLE “FLOWER BUN” would wear pants shorter than their legs to expose their
“THE RULE OF WIDE BELT” for government officials. bound feet to catch people’s eyes. Men wore leather shoes
while women wore shoes with a round toe, sometimes
decorated with various patterns such as flower or bird
109
YUAN DYNASTIES MING DYNASTIES
Influenced by Han nationality
Men in Min Dynasty wore long
and become more gorgeous and
robes. Men’s costume had
featured on robe. Men wore wide-
circular collars and featured
brimmed rain hat in summer and
broad sleeves. Men wore black
wore fur coat, leather boot, and
silk ribbon and drooping strap
leather hat in winter. Many of
long enough to cover their
mandarin’s clothes were robe had
hands. White pleated skirts
narrow sleeves. They love to
became very popular.
grow plaited hair and wear
Women in Min Dynasty wore
earrings. Women of Mongol
shirt(衫) , coat, 霞披 (a kind of
clothes were similar to men’s,
but their colours were plaid) and skirt. Their clothes
different. Plenty of women’s were feat body. They just could
wear light color but couldn’t
clothes were 左衽 and had tight
wear deep red and yellow.
and narrow sleeves. When women
However, clothes of ladies were
wore a robe, they also wore
fit and slemder, such as long
pants, and used a band to tie on
coat and long skirt. They would
waist. Instead, women of Han
wear pleated skirt, long vest
nationality featured on 襦裙. and shawl.
Their clothes were 右衽 and
loose or narrow sleeves. They
wore long pants in the pleated
skirt and wore shallow-bottom
shoes. The rich women of Mongol
nationality had a special-shaped
hat which was tall and long.
110
QING DYNASTY
Yellow was used for celebration colour. EMPEROR CLOTHING. Manchu
ethnic minority from the northeast took power. An emperor’s gown
required two and a half years of labor to complete. Dragon Robe
contained nine dragons embellished with gold. MEN CLOTHING. The trait
of clothing of Qing Dynasty were retaining and absorbing Han
nationality and Manchu’s custom. Men of Qing Dynasty’s mainly clothes
were robe, jacket(⾺馬褂) and vest(⾺馬甲). Because Manchu liked riding-
shoot, their sleeves of robe were looked like a horse’s hoof. 褂 had
been wore out of the robe, whether men or women could wear it. On the
vest(⾺馬甲) were much adornment of colourful embroider. characterised
with long gowns, mandarin jackets. The slender style and rectangular
in form.
WOMEN CLOTHING. Women of Qing Dynasty liked the slender figure. They
often wore a cheongsam, combed the chignon on hair flat, fashioned put
an upright board which artificial flowers were sewed on and wore tall-
bottomed shoes. The rich women of Qing Dynasty would inlay jadeite
coral, pearls or white jade on the adornment which was inserted on the
chignon and wore nail coats made of jewel to protect their fingernail.
111
QING DYNASTY
WOMEN CLOTHING. QIPAO. Also known as
Cheongsam “long dress” or mandarin gown.
Evolved from an ancient clothing of Manchu
ethnic minority. Stylish and often tight-
fitting, the qipao that is known today was
popularized during the 1920s in Shanghai by
socialites and upper- class women. From the
1930s, the qipao became auniform type of
clothing for women. Folk women, students,
workers and high-status women all dressed
themselves in cheongsam.
WOMEN CLOTHING SHEN YI. Worn in ceremonies
to pay respect to ancestors or funerals.
Made up of 12 panels of fabric sewn
together, representing 12 months in a year.
WOMEN CLOTHING XUAN DUAN. like our black
coat and tie. The Chinese had a collection
of formal dresses that were reserved for
special occasions like traditional or
religious events as well important personal
events like weddings and funerals.
WEDDING DRESS. In the Chinese culture the
wearing of black denotes sorrow and grief. The same goes
for other dark colours like grey and blue. These are the
kinds of colours that are worn on funerals and not on
weddings. The colour of the wedding dress should reflect
joy and happiness. This is why the two most prominent
colours used for dyeing the wedding dress are red and white
in the Chinese culture. According to tradition the colour
red reflects prosperity and love. This is why traditionally
the Chinese wedding dress had red as its base colour.
Chengasm – a print of a dragon and a phoenix on the
dresses. According to Chinese tradition, the union of
dragon and phoenix symbolises the natural balance that
exists between man and woman.
113
XIN-HAI REVOLUTION happened
in 1911 that have 3 demands, abolishing the
monarchy, cutting off the braid, changing the
traditional clothes into the new ones. Men
started to wear unlined upper garments and
jackets. Young people use western style
clothes. Zhong-Shan also became a trend.the
traditional characteristics with the western
clothes were combined and also features chink
and a waistband on the backside.here are
always nine buttons on the front part of the
garment, and folds on the pockets. The five
pockets, one of which is inside the garment,
represent the five constitutional principles
by Dr. Sun Ye-Shan
FOOT BINDING. Foot-binding was a

special kind of Chinese custom prevailing in
the early 20th century. At that time, women
had to use a long piece of cloth to tie their
feet since childhood. They wanted to stop the
growing of the feet, for smaller feet were
thought more attractive to men. Women with
bound-feet could not walk properly, but had to
walk on their heels. After the end of the Chin
Dynasty, more and more people started to
consider the food-binding a kind of repression
for women, and then the old custom has been
banned legally now.
114
XIN-HAI REVOLUTION
Dang (鈿) is also a kind of ornament
worn on the forehead by women as a
decoration. Due to its various
components,. Dang is colorful. For
example, a golden one is usually made of
foil. Besides, the pictures on Dang may
determine its color as well. There is a
popular one, named Zui Dang (翠鈿). It
got its name from the picture with
bird’s feather made of green emerald.
115
comparisons
The use of parasols were seen
in photographs of live models
showing John Galiano's Chinese
look for Dior in July 1997
Karl Lagerfeld, a famous
fashion designer, who always
wears sunglasses and carries a
folding fan when he appears in
fashion shows
Dior's Spring-Summer 2007 John galilano
116
Both have the same

colour, shape, same
dragon pattern,
The collar neck shape
probably the same
is the same as well as
embroidery and
the fastening in the
materials, have
top part. The
some decorative red ASHISH tailoring in the upper
linings. Tied at kimono silk dragon NE·TIGER 2016 Haute Couture
part was tight-fitted.
around the waist. embroidered jacket
117
comparisons
Calvin Klein Fashion Show, Ready To Wear
comparisons
Collection Fall Winter 2018 in New York
Aminaka Wilmont’s Spring

2009 Soleless/Souless Shoe
Same shape as
it widened by
the ear,
reached the
shoulder yet
fitted on the
head.
comparisons
Foot binding but not as
hurtful. Both have the same
A theatrical make up
concept of wrapping the foot.
with white based
with a sole that supports the
foundation and red
foot on which is a pointed
lips
heels.
Christian Dior at Couture Spring 2003
118
|The Byzantine Empire.
("The Byzantine Empire - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018)
Byzantine costume. First half of the VI Century
120
121
The Byzantine Empire
324 CE, Constantine I, a Roman emperor rebuild the great city
Byzantium. Sited strategically on Bosporus, a gateway waters that
connects Mediterranean and the Black Sea that differ West and
East. Called as New Rome, that later named Constantinople
(Istanbul) in his honour. In this era, their ruling classes came
before the empire. Byzantium that once known as Constantinople -as
its capital-. Byzantine called themselves Romans who spoke Greek
and Latin. The name Byzantine itself came from a Greek man named
Byzas- who’s existence is still in debate. Byzantine survived from
the downfall of Rome with civilisation legacy from Romans and
Greeks. Their trading status with Middle East and the Orient -
India and China- was remained good. Byzantine Empire produce great
armies, complex system of government and church officials.
Society
Hierarchical means a lot in Byzantine Empire. The top of the
hierarchy was the emperor-major decisions maker- which select its
successor by blood-related or trusted adviser. -an inner circle of
advisers and bureaucrats. Emperor doing its job with a well-
trained army -about 120.000 members- as their helpers. Theres also
Byzantine senate-prepare laws for the emperor’s approval-. Shop
owners and traders were a small middle class, right after the very
wealthy people surrounding the emperor. Most of the population
were poor who's either laboured or grow their own foods who's
owned by the wealthy.
Their culture surrounded with Christian church that was headed by
the emperor -with its rituals and holidays-. similar to Roman
Catholics - believed in the Jesus, son of God, as well as the
trinity consist of God the father, Jesus Christ, and the Holy
Spirit. But later on, there was a debate between Italians
favouring the pope in Rome and Byzantines supporting the bishop of
Constantinople, which created a split into Eastern Orthodox Church
and Roman Catholic Church -Great Schism-.
122
Nikephoros III Botaniates, Byzantine emperor.
The Byzantine Empire

Between East and West
The church influence is degrading for people and it began to differ tastes in clothing as well as decorations because of
the civilisations that prefer to the east than the west. And because of their trade routes, Byzantine costume turned
into a mix of Roman garments-tunic, stole, mixed with Eastern ornament and pattern- which created Byzantine culture so
iconic. The mixture of East and West could be seen in the church and monasteries. There was a huge dome that took 10.000
workers built in 5 years. This building claimed to be the greatest Byzantine Empire achievements in architecture.
The end of the Empire, began with the Emperor Justinian which led Byzantine to conflicts with Persians, North Africans,
and the Ostrogoths. However, the battle leads to expansion and contraction of the empire. Crusaders-11th century C.E.
Christian armies from western Europe- battled with Byzantine in order to reclaim the “holy lands” from Turks and Arabs
which led to Byzantine Empire’s ending with the capture of city of Constantinople. Even so, the great city of
Constantinople survived and changed its name to Istanbul, part of Ottoman Empire. Byzantine Empire have a great impact
between the ancient civilisations of Greece & Rome and the modern kingdoms an later nation-states of Europe.
123
Nuns at the St. John. Emperor Justinian With
The first Crusades.
Empress Theodora Of The
Hospitallers of St. John.
Eastern Roman
The Knights of Malta.
124
Jacques de Molay. Grand Master of Godfrey of Bouillon 1060-1100.
Templar, the second crusade
the Knights Templar Crusader. King of Jerusalem.
125
Crusaders, Outremer in 12th and
Normans – Byzantine Mercenaries
13th century.
126
Byzantine military inventors perfected Greek Fire, a combustible
liquid like napalm that could be hurled at enemy ships (or lobbed
against land armies as hand grenades).
127
clothing
Just like any other era, wealth and prosperity were shown in
the way they dressed, but there were two notable period,
first one is the period of Justinian I. In this era, mosaic
hold a very important role. Rome’s influences strongly
occurred. However, there are a few things that differ
Justinian’s and Rome. Taken from Persian and Anatolian
designs, the use of sewn, closer-fitting garments and richer
ornamentation and jewellery. Because of its successful area
as a trade centre between West and East, the Byzantine Empire
use many magnificent and excessive luxurious clothing. Luxury
fabrics from Asia, Syria, and Egypt is very popular and high
on quota, despite its high cost. These as well, shows a
status in the society.
When in Rome they have rules for which social status could
wear a garments, in Byzantine the clothing was limited to
those who could pay. The wealth of course could afford
luxurious silks, jewels, and embroideries which is the iconic
Byzantines clothing. Therefore, most Byzantines could only
afford the simple versions. Unfortunately, the poor’s
clothing have not survived, the surviving trace was only a
tile mosaics, statues, and paintings that represents the very
wealthy church members.
128
samite
Not only imported fabrics,
domestic textile developed
as soon as the sericulture
was introduced. The secrets
of silk manufacture from
China had been established
in northern India, spreads
through Korea, Japan,
Persia, and Central Asia
which leads to two Persian
monk missionaries who had
worked in China agreed to
smuggle the knowledge in
exchange of large monetary
rewards. Those was improved
into samite-silk interwoven
with gold and silver metals
threads thats interspersed
with pearls and jewelled
embroideries.
129
clothing
heavy and shiny fabrics
changed how people dress. the
stiff, full of orientations
dress with much simple cut,
with few folds, designed by
large-motifs. Fitted sewn
tunic worn by both men and
women that were clinched at
the waist with wide belt and
hanging straight to knee or
ankle. Their shoulder-covering
collars inspired by Egyptian
and Etruscan with deep and
rich decorations.
Christians made a big impact

as we can see in their long,
fitted sleeves, cloth or
silken hose. As for the
outdoor clothing, cloaks
pinned at the shoulder. Purple
and gold were used by
imperials. Meanwhile, vivid
Red, Yellows, and Greens worn
by the wealths.
Fitted tunic sleeve show under larger white outer tunic called an alb. 130
The second period came between 9th & 11th centuries. Court dress
would be richer than ever, decorated with jewels, dyed with deep colours,
mostly purple and red. Long panel of gold-embroidered material wrapped around
the body, ended with it hung over by one arm.
Caftan was worn as their formal wear for both sexes. Usually worn
with trousers with more elegant and closely cut on the lower limbs. Those
will eventually tucked into their boots or worn over their shoes.
Byzantine dress were strongly influenced by eastern Europe, like Balkans and
Russia. Bejewelled silk formal garments adopted by the
church and become vestments in the Middle Ages.
131
jewellery
Roman culture were seen in Byzantine
Empire. Iconoclasm made it shifted to
nature ornaments which use filigree, opus
interassile, and enamelling, and the
copious applications -of precious stones
and pearls- techniques. Complex decorations
and arabesques from filigree, while
enamelling used flowers and birds. Half-
moon-shaped earrings was very popular.
There are examples with pierced decoration,
with filigree basketwork, and with the
figures of enamelled birds facing each
other on a golden half-moon. Although the
mosaics give only a sketchy idea, on the
figures of Justinian, Theodora, and their
retinue, precious ornaments can be
Byzantine gold earring
distinguished that were of ceremonial
with enamelled bird,
magnificence suited to their rank.
12th century; in the
British Museum,
London. Courtesy of
the trustees of the
British Museum
132
CLOTHING
As discussed earlier, Byzantine ways of clothing came from the Roman Empire-colours and decorative tradition
shaped from the Orient and the Middle East. Just like Romans, Tunic and toga for men, stole for women. But the
clothing is way more ornate and luxurious to distinct themselves.
At the end of the Roman Empire, toga worn only for ceremonial occasions and Byzantine-simple flowing clothing
preference- also ditch the toga. In exchange for that, the basic garments Dalmatica -long flowing men tunic with
wide sleeves and hem-. Sometimes, women wore Dalmatica as well but they usually used their Stola. Because of the
religious rules, they wore their cloth from the neck, sleeves-wrists, and the hemline, as for their outer, it was
extended all the way to the ground. Not even enough, they layered it again with tunic and trousers beneath the
dalmatics for men and a long undergarment under their stola with an additional long cloak named paludamentum.
133
Byzantine clothing was richer
in colours and orientation
thanks to the influence in
colours, patterns, and exotic
fabric from the East. Wealthy
people used some common
colours-like deep reds,
blues, greens, and yellows-,
but which considered as the
richest were purple as it
represents the royals. These
were mainly worn by Byzantine
Emperors when a foreign
visitors came, wore purple
robes with glittering gold
embroidery as well as a
fabric with jewels sewn onto
them.
Another iconic clothing were

worn by clergy from Christian
church. Its similar to
dalmatica but it have some
variety that had their own
special roles regarding the
religious practices. The
influence of Byzantine can be
seen on robes and headwear of
leaders of Roman Catholic
Church. Meanwhile the
dalmatica garments are still
Nikephoros III Botaniates, Byzantine emperor used by the members of the
Eastern Orthodox Church.
134
DALMATICA
is a standard overgarment that were worn by both sexes in the
upper-class, but mostly used by men. Its like Tunica-or shirt,
which is a simple long fabric that were stitched on the sides
up the sleeves with a hole cut for the head. But they enlarge
the sleeves and excessively broadened the hem, both with the
draping bell shapes which makes the garment hang in folds about
the legs.
The garments were depends on the user’s wealth. As for the

basics the materials will be linen, wool, and cotton. And would
be more expensive depending on the orientation and jewels. The
decorative trim could be added to the hem, sleeves, and
neckline. Or it could be in a form of woven or embroidered
patches sewn onto some parts. Some decorative Clavi -vertical
stripes from shoulders or segmentae, stripes on the edge of the
sleeves or hem. As for the rich or the emperors, they might be
wearing the garments made from rich brocade with gold and
silver patterns and had pearls, gemstones, and enamelled metal
panels as its ornament. All those ornaments and jewels used to
show their social status as it was very important.
135
Paludamentum -
term of variety of cloaks used
in Byzantium Empire were worn by
both sexes, and worn over
standard garments. The most
popular was a large semicircle
fabric, pinned at the right
shoulder, reaching the hips.
Another popular garments have
trapezoid shaped pinned at the
right shoulder. There was also a
paenula -large circle with a
hole cut for the head.
Just like any other clothing,

what makes Byzantine, Byzantine
is the rich Byzantine silk and
richly decorated fabrics. The
most used ornaments were tablion
-square & diamond shaped- sewn
onto the front of the garment as
a symbols of rank and worn by
the upper-class.
136
stola -a long dress that had both sides sewn from the hem, bottom, until the arms. Just right below the
bust-line, they usually worn a belt. Linen or light wool were the most popular fabric but silk, was preferred by
the wealthy just like any other clothing. A basic garment worn by women for so many era, and yet Byzantine Empire
still using it. Beneath the stola, they usually wore some long underdress or a shorter tunic which both had long
sleeves. At the earliest age, because of the Church’s preference in modesty, they barely show any skins in
public. Of course Byzantine would have more ornaments in their costume. At first they have sleeveless stola, but
just like Dalmatica, they were improved into a long bell-shaped or flared sleeves and mostly made out of silver-
gold patterned silk brocades that were decorated in variety of patterns and embroidery. When the common people
wore blue, red, or white stolas, the royals would wore purple and gold.
137
As for their headwear , men still using Caesar cut-short
hair with straight cut in the forehead- and clean-shaven beards.
Phrygian cap-the hood was the inspiration from Greek for their
outdoors look and Petasos were the most popular headwear for men.
Meanwhile, women had a long hair that usually braided or piled on top
of their head which have its own style of each fashions -usually use
pins or ribbon so the hair stays in place. Other than that, they also
have variety ways of curling, twisting, and molding their hair which
makes it more pleasant. wore veils and encased their long hair with
Byzantine silk cap or pearl net.
kamelaukion,
crown of But when both men and women were members of Byzantine court or the
Constance of emperor, they have varied richly ornamented crowns. The most iconic
Aragon might be a skullcap named zucchetto-worn by Clergymen- that have
(1179-1222), variants of color based on their status, a bishop, a cardinal, or a
Holy Roman monk. Monks wore paludamentum with a pulled up hood in order to keep
Empress, Queen them warm.
of Sicily, wife
of Frederick Notable figures from the Roman Catholic Church nowadays also wore the
II. Royal pope’s white zucchetto.
Palace, Naples,
Italy.
138
139
TURBAN -made from cotton or
silk long cloth that were used by
wrapping it around the head with
specified pattern. It was used to cover
the head and hide their hair. Its
origins are still in debate whether its
from Persia, modern-day Iran or
Egyptians. However, it was popular since
Byzantine Empire started using it and
the turbans became identified with
Eastern cultures and religions. East and
West cultures mixed and became a
distinct Byzantine Empire style, one of
them was turban that was worn by both
sexes when Byzantine was conquered by
Ottoman Turks, but starting that moment,
the Turks also began to wear turbans.
It have a great religious and political

meanings when it was used, but later on
it had became a popular women’s fashion
accessories.
140
BODY DECORATION
At first Byzantine Empire developed a public baths just like Roman Empire as their
daily rituals. They also loves gold and silver jewels like earrings, rings-for finger
and toes-, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, and fibulae-clasps to tightened their cloth.
But they usually use gold plate-thin plate over other material- might be because of a
shortage of gold.
Unlike Romans, Byzantine rejected heavy make ups. However, they developed rich perfumes
which ingredients obtained from China, India, and Persia-modern day Iran-.
They developed some technique, for example enamelling-a baked glassy coating as a
surface with decorative pattern or figure-. Cloisonné enamelling used a small panels
enamelled figures with raised gold borders to parted it -usually worn as armlets or
squares to be attached to the cloth.Rings held such an important role with many shapes
and styles.
Just like any other era, the use of the jewellery was a way to show wealth.
141
EMBROIDERY -decorations of
fabric by stitching or do needlework to
make raised pattern-.
It is probably the most important method
to decorate their costumes. This technique
had been discovered all the way back to
ancient Egypt and ancient China, but it
became a full realisation when embroidery
was a distinctive to Byzantine costume.
Byzantine wore plain garments that were

highly ornamented, some used some patterns
of embroidery sewn or some used strips or
panels embroidery sewn to the hem, waist,
or sleeves. Geometric patterns-squares,
circles, diamonds- as well as nature
patterns-flowers, leaves, birds,
mythological creatures- were mainly used
as their favoured patterns.
Meanwhile the wealthy love to use tablion

-a 6 to 12 inch square piece of heavily
embroidered fabric attached in front of
Dalmatica-. They also used many colourful
silk or gold threads like purples, golds,
reds, blues, and yellows to have their
spotlight.
142
FOOTWEAR
Because of long clothing, the traces of Byzantine’s footwear is not
very accurate. However, based on their lifestyle we could obtain
some educated guesses. Byzantine footwear was similar to soled-the
sandals- and calceus-covered shoes- that were previously worn by
Romans. But because of the influence of the Middle East and the
Orient, the shoes might have made from embroidered silk and
decorated with jewels. Mens love leather boots, black for everyday
wear, meanwhile red was used in court. Women wore sandals but
mostly used footwear were a soft-snkle-height shoes with
embroidered bright coloured shoes.
143
comparisons
Both have similarr patterns, and clearly
inspired from the era, the mozaik patterns
as well.
Dolce and Gabbana

comparisons 2013 collection.
The Beret headpiece shard the same

shape and probably came in the
same color.
Gold-plated Swarovski
crystal cross necklace
comparisons
comparisons
Both have the same shape, as well as the similar

Both have similar color and shape. ornaments, details, and material.
144
Dolce and Gabbana 2013
comparisons
Dolce and Gabbana 2013
comparisons
Both share similar colours, as well as
details, decoration, the end red box
linings and mosaic patterns. The shape of the dress including the size and
cutting came from picture on the left. Meanwhile
the patterns and colour came from picture on the
right.
145
|Nomads & Barbarian.
Even after all those empires arisen, theres a group of people
who still lived like its ancients called “barbarians-lawless
crude people”. Barbarian is a negative nicknames meaning
ignorance and heathenism, used by civilised people in Rome and
China which hated and feared at how barbarians fight. But the
term “Nomads-the lifestyle of barbarians” is a term in
historical explanation until now. They made a small groups to
hunt, gather their foods unlike the civilians in the empire. To
posses a land, instead of making settlements they fight for it.
There were variant of nomads group including, Celts, Huns,

Vandals, Goths, and Franks. Unfortunately, their lifestyle have
no proof, except for the Celts that have strong oral traditions
that had survived through all the years until it made to the
Nomads and Barbarians

history record. These nomadic group were constantly moving which
made their legacies scattered all over the place. However,
historians managed to identify some pottery, metal belt buckles,
and bones.
The most civilised amongst the nomads were called the Celts,
they had complex religion and kings nobles was the head of their
social organisation. With their skills in ironworking-produce
swords and armour- they resisted Romans.
The life of Barbarians came to the surface when they started to

hunt food to the east, which leads them to Romans that had all
sources of food and wealth they’ve never encountered before.
They move in small groups and built sanctuary as they pleased.
Men’s job is to provides food and fight to others to claim their
“temporary” grounds. After many years, they finally discovered a
stable climate and geography for them to permanently stay. From
that point, they uncover agriculture from the locals. As Roman
Empire’s collapse in 476, they were able to settle. Celts,
Angels, and Saxons settled in Great Britain, Franks settled in
Germany and France, Visigoths settled in Spain, and the rest
were scattered all over Europe.
147
("Nomads and Barbarians - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018)
Viking - the last barbarians
After the settlements, a new barbarian group from the North came to Europe-looting, pillaging, terrorising
Britain and northern France. These new group are known to us as the Vikings. But their barbarian lifestyle
was quite different as they already had a complex agricultural society which means they are no longer
traveled in a small group. These, however managed to conquered England and temporarily ruled North
America-Canada. At the end, they converted to Christianity and merged into respective societies.
As for Viking’s clothing, it resembles Europes at the same period. With the trousers, tunic, and coat or
large cloak. Meanwhile, women’s cloth is similar but the tunic extended all the way to the feet. It made
from wool or linen with vibrant colours -purples, blues, and greens.
148
CLOTHING
First record of the groups were nomads and
barbarians. People from Gaul (France), and Celts,
Britain, were not ad cultured as Romans. They wore
rough wool garments made out of local sheep. It came
along with thick wool tunics, inexpertly sewn at
sides, as well as heavy wool capes that were draped
over the shoulders. Meanwhile the Celts wore a more
developed version with plaid pattern and had vivid
colours.
The most iconic items were the loose leg coverings

called braccae -modern day trousers, and snug-fitting
knee-length pants called feminalia worn by Gauls and
Celts. There were banned at some time in Rome, but
when the Roman soldiers travelling in cold climate,
they wore these as it was practical. The way Gauls
and Celts in their wooden clothing will be adopted
through Europeans in the Middle Ages.
Barbarian groups like Huns and Goths were using

flapping fragments of fur, the crude dress. The
garments from barbarian have not survived, but
fortunately roman left the descriptions. Barbarians
did not use burial customs that preserved garments,
and they left no written records, paintings, or
sculptures.
149
Barbarians primary clothing was animal fur, marmot, deer, ibex (wild goat), and sheepskin. They wore it with
loosely tied or stitched together as their overcoat, sleeveless shirts, and leggings, which were held to the legs
with bands of hide and animal skin. Meanwhile, Huns wore a single set of clothes.
Some barbarians managed to make wool clothing. Over the years, its garments became more refined, with more
developed fabric-making techniques. From woven wool until linen garments, and yet the shape is still as as simple
as trousers, tunic, overcoat or cloak for men, and a long tunic worn with a belt for women. Their crude garments
resemble the prehistoric clothings. In fact, the way they hunt and gathered food had so many resemblance.
150
HEADWEAR
Since there were no direct legacies from Barbarian tribes, historians have to believes to the victims of
Barbarian’s descriptions. The victims claimed that barbarians had a long hairs for both sexes. Women's loved to
braid and let it hang at their back and Men’s pushed their straight hair back decorated with their crown. Beards
and moustaches also grown very long. "They indeed allow [their hair] to grow so thick that it scarce differs from
a horse's mane. The nobility … wear moustaches, which hang down so as to cover their mouths, so that when they eat
and drink, these brush their victuals [food] or dip into their liquids.”-
151
Richard Corson's Fashions in Hair: The First Five Thousand Years

However, some barbarians had their beard shaved but grew their
moustache long. It is disgraceful for men to have a short
hair. Goths priests shaved the front and sides of their head
and left a long mane of hair from the top to the back of the
head. As for the warriors, they like to dye their hair with
bright red. Anglo-Saxons dyed it green, orange, and deep blue.
Goths and Franks might wore a thick felt cap, while a battle
headdresses made with bison horns made worn by Franks.
152
BODY DECORATION
While prehistoric humans left some
evidence, barbarians left nothing
behind. However, historians might
have discover that barbarians might
have worn simple bracelets and
necklaces made from bone. They also
used combs made from animals horn
and bone.
Luckily, we know that Vikings woes

bracelets as a sign of their
victories in battles as well as a
bronze or bone belt buckle.
Extracted from the Roman Empire’s

record on the enemy, Franks used
seaweed and bison-horn headdresses
for their body decorations.
Meanwhile Celts wore arm and wrist
bracelets, and metal collars on
their necks.
153
FOOTWEAR
Mainly made from animal’s hide that comes with
two basic style. The first one was similar to
prehistoric humans, which is a piece of animals
hide wrapped up and cover all of the foot with
hide strap or tie to secured it. The second
one, which is more common was a multipart hide
shoe- hide uppers stitched to a thicker leather
sole.
However, Huns and Goths who travel to a colder

climate loved to left the fur still attached to
the shoes to makes it warmer. Knee-high boots
were believed to be worn by them. In fact,,
Roman cothurnus was modelled after Celts and
Gauls’s boot.
154
comparisons
COAT MAHOGANY by
Mesdemoisellesparis
crocodile leather bag, both have black

leather, similar pattern and size.
comparisons
comparisons
The Furry Keeper Brown Sling Purse, Lulu &
Sky. Both made with brown fur, similar
outer shape but different construction and
auditions. as well as handles. The same brown hooded
fur outer different
in cuttings and
length.
155
https://www.mesdemoisellesparis.com/en/collection-2018/winter-fashion-paris-women/coat/-1660--20167faux-fur-coat-mahogany-100-m-lining-80pes-20co
https://www.luluandsky.com/the-furry-keeper-brown-sling-purse.html
comparisons
LushStyleUK New Ladies
Italian Faux Fur
Sleeveless Gilet Women
Crop Gilet Plus Sizes
comparisons
Flannel & Leather Duck Boot
TORY BURCH
Both have the same shape, size, and tightened by strap Both have the same style, cropped and sleeveless,
like with fur added and leather upper part. same fur material, used as an outer garment.
156
http://www.paulafaermanphotography.org/lushstyleuk-new-ladies-italian-faux-fur-sleeveless-gilet-women-crop-gilet-
plus-sizes-b077t8d64t-p-123.html
https://shop.nordstrom.com/s/tory-burch-flannel-leather-duck-boot/3182309
|Europe in Middle Ages.
158
Europe in Middle Ages
After the collapse of Roman Empire, all the civilisations were
destroyed and took a step back for human. Everything became a chaos
which many historians called this era a Dark Ages which became a part
of a larger historical period called the Middle Ages. A few Romans who
survived was leaded by a Germanic King named Charlemagne which renewed
trade among France, Italy, and Spain. Unfortunately, after the King's
death, the empire once again fell. However, Catholic religion, Latin
language and their feudal system survived.
A local King was supported by nobles who swore loyalty and provided the
King Knights as protections.Knights came up with rules on how to treat
woman as well as an intricate and sophisticated systems of armour.Lands
were controlled by nobles which peasants and lower classes worked at.
Life was extreme for those lower classes which were proved by short
lives.
Throughout the years, the system developed as it grew larger. Alliances

with surroundings complete the systems of nobility-monarchies, kingdoms
of France,England, Spain, and Germany.
Roman Catholic Church became the centre of their life which made them
the most powerful institution. It was a source of knowledge and
learnings-act as a library-. It also collected taxes to built enormous
churched, monasteries, and cathedrals which takes part the form of
Middle Ages. Church also have Crusades-religious knights- which mission
was to reclaim the Holy Lands-the birthplace of Jesus Christ- form the
Muslim nations. These Crusaders also crossed path with Byzantine Empire
that led them brought new ideas in trading and clothing.
159
("Europe in the Middle Ages - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018)
The Black Death -is a terrible disease
which wiped out one-third of Western Europe’s population.
The plague made people doubt the Catholic Church and change
how people dressed.
However, right after the plague vanished, people started to

wore fancier and excessive ornamented clothing- to enjoy
their life while it seems too short.
14th century became a highly developed century. Access to

money was easier than before, they managed to organise
themselves with guilds of similar trades, a small middle
class opened up stores, royal families and courts still at
the top of the society. The idea of Universities as a place
to support education was established, so the historians
named the Renaissance-the rebirth of learning and civil
society.
The Clothing followed trends with highly developed

techniques. Tailors were able to made a living with their
skills in making finely cut and fitted garments. The
clothing was customer and fitted to the favour of the
wealthy royals and nobles. France obtain the status of
Fashion capital which stayed until the twenty-first
century.
160
CLOTHING As nomadic people
destroyed civilisation, the clothing
in middle ages also degraded from
Romans fine linen and silk togas and
draped robes to crude wool leggings
and fur-lined tunics. Fortunately,
the clothes developed as time goes by
which created a distinctive costume
of Middle Ages. They developed their
clothing in variant ways such as cool
climate traditions had wools
garments. The tunic remained used as
a basic garments for both sexes but
sometimes made from fur -for the
wealth, ermine, wasels, and mink- to
add warmth worn with a belt. Under-
tunic and heavy over-tunics were worn
with variety in length, as for women
it will reached to the ground, but
for men it will get shorter evolved
to modern shirt. Men wore
combinations of hose and breeches.
161
From 11th century, emerging monarchies created courts which produce real wealth on fashionable
clothes. Crusaders took Byzantine’s fashion back and those will be modified by the servants if the
wealth. Medieval fashion grew women’s and men’s clothing separately. Multiple-fabric long robes with
fitted bodice featured flowing bountiful skirt. Men’s tunic grew shorter ended by the waist with
close-fitted hose to show off the leg. Professional craftsman began to built organisation which
trade tailoring, making, repairing, and altering garments which became a job for mens. The more
intricate technique began to show, but the significant changes started at Renaissance. Middle Ages
was probably the last age with simple garment.
162
BLIAUT -a sheer-constructed long gown featured many
folds and drapes which needed twice as much fabric needed
for a flat skirt worn by the wealthy. Made out of wool or
linen, as for the wealthiest, made of silk.
Women’s bliauts had hundreds of pleats and reached to the

ground. It commonly close-fitting at the shoulders, torso,
and upper arms with widened sleeves from the elbow to the
wrist, and as for Men, they fit fairly loosely, reached the
ankle with widened sleeves at the wrist.
They often wore a belt or sash to decorated their costume.

Originated in France but worn by wealthy through Europe.
163
COTE AND COTEHARDIE -a long loose fitting robe worn by both sexes that was pulled over the
head with close fitting neck and sleeves fastened with buttons or laces.
Men wore it with a wide belt and occasionally bloused the fabric out across the chest. While mens wore it until it
reached the ankle, women extended it to the ground with a belt under the breasts. Just like any other garments,
commonly made from wool but to show wealth, a silk would do. Dyed in a single colour, as for the wealth decorated
with embroidery or fringe at the hem. To follow the fitted trend, it transforms to cotehardie which was the
shorter versions for the mens that stopped at the hip. Usually worn together with a skirt and hose. As for the
women, it became a dramatic snugly-fitting bodice and sleeves which was attached to a long and wide skirt that had
folds and a slits cut. The skirt started from under the breasts with a bulk which gave a pregnant profile as seen
in paintings and tape-strings. They sometimes cut their cotehardies and gave it to the favoured knight in a
tournament as a presents.
164
GANACHE AND GARDCORPS
-an over coats made from thicker wool by men from
all social classes which goal was to protect the
wearer from bad climate and gave warmth-sometimes
lined with fur for more warmth-.
These garments were pulled over the head and hung

down all the way to the waist, probably to the
knees. Attachable hood at the back of the neck
was draped over the back when not necessary.
Ganache's sleeves formed of extended fabric at
the shoulder which had an open underarm and its
length is no longer than the elbow. The gardcorps
sleeves were attached separately which makes it
better for a colder weather.
165
HOSE AND BREECHES
As time goes by, men's outfit started to
grew shorter garments which shown more
parts of their legs. These leads them to
wore these hose and breeches-the length
and fit of these changed a great deal
between around 1000 and 1400 C.E.
Breeches was a loose-fitted trousers
made out of wool that were held by a
belt or drawstring at the waist. They
could either secured the hem inside a
shoe or let them loose. many tightened
it with leg bands. They followed the
trend which prefer to show off the shape
of the body instead of covered it up
with loose clothing. Hose was a close-
fitting garment which usually made from
a clingu, bias-cut wool-diagonally cut
to the grain of the fabric-. But the
rich made them out of silk or velvet.
Hose could reached the upper calf or
above the knee held by a garter or a
small belt. Hose gets longer and longer
up to the leg which made breeches
diminished in size. In 13th century some
breeches was nothing more than a baggy
short pants. Otherwise, hose had been
joined together at the waist which we
know as tights. Hose was quite popular
nowadays even more advanced with the
feet sewn on. Some had leather heels
sewn which made no more shoes needed.
166
HOUPPELANDE -a long full
outer featured close fitting shoulder
with billowed outward continuance in
many folds of fabric-which later on will
be organised into long tubular pleats-
that was worn by both sexes. As for men,
they wore it over tunic and hose. and as
for women, over a long under-robe.
It also featured dramatic hemline and

sleeves as it could reach to or trail on
the ground. Extremely wide and hung down
sleeves. The hemline and sleeves cuffs
were trimmed or scalloped to decorative
patterns. The patterns didn't stop
there, fabric flourishes-small wings-
often added to the shoulder.Women loved
wore a belt under the line of the bust
with houppelande as well.
Rich fabrics like silk, brocade, and

velvet were often used as houppelandes
material and trimmed with contrast
linings for fur addition to produce
warmth. The users choose variant colours
but later on they prefer vibrant
patterns.
167
LEG BANDS -leg wear
These were a significant clothing transition from ancient Rome to Middle Ages. Many people from the colder
climate of Europe wore crude breeches or trousers that often called feminalia by Romans. In order to keep the
fabric hanging loose, men used tie leather or bands made of wool at the lower legs. These where the leg bands
born as a garment.
Later in 17th and 18th centuries, leg bands came in regular patterns and the hemline arisen in order to show the
bands. People choose the close-cut look that the bands made and inspired the creation of hose-snug fitting- which
replaced the leg bands.
168
MANTLE -a simple all purpose overgarment
consists of a large rectangular, semicircular, or
circular which was wrapped across the shoulders and
tightened with a metal clasp or brooch.
However, later on the late 12th century, they drape the

mantle on both shoulders and fastened it at the core of
their chest with cords that tied or button and loop.
It is as simple as their function which is very

adaptable. The poor usually used their un-dyed wool
mantle with a crude clasp. The wealthy on the other hand,
wore rich silk mantle trimmed with soft fur and fastened
it with jewelled brooch.
169
POURPOINT -a comfortable undergarment that provides paddings to the body worn beneath the armour,
and act as a fashion statement without the armour. Heavily quilted and padded in key places where sharp parts
of the armour contacted the skin, the pour-point was a close-fitting featured long sleeved shirt with button
down at the front. With tailored arm sockets, they were able to complete range of arm movement to support in
battle. Knights wore a hose which had ties that secured the anchors on the pourpoint called points. With snug-
fitted hose and pourpoint, the strength and masculinity images were able to be delivered.
170
TABARD
Origins by Crusades -Holy war Knights- which wore a heavy chain mail -
flexible armour made from intertwining metal chains-. In order to keep
the sun from heating the metal, they made a simple smock with a long
rectangular fabric with a head-hole called surcote that usually worn
with a waist belt. When it was not used in the battle, it was adopted to
tabards. Often used for ceremonies.
So tabard was a decorated open-sided smock ended at the waist that was
trimmed at the hem and armholes with fur. Made with fabrics in
contrasting colours -parti coloured-. Decorated with a coat of arms,
emblems with different symbols based on a family seal which reflected a
shield background, family motto, and an animal with decorative
flourishes.
171
Headwear
They wore variety hairstyles and headwear. The fondness for headwear was bigger than ever. Men’s hairstyles that
usually long and shaggy with beards and moustaches, turned to short, clean-shaven. The bowl haircut and the
tonsure -a large round spot that monks and other religious figures shaved on the top of their heads to show
their religious devotion- was popular after the 12th century. Meanwhile, the women had a long hair with natural
and flowing or two-braided long plaits hung to their side of the head.
Catholic culture was dominating the Middle Ages, and it demand modesty in form of full coverage of the body. For
everyday wear the most popular were coif, a light fabric cap held close to the head with a string under the
chin, and a wool feet beret, a durable all-purpose cap worn mostly by men. The wimple, a veil that completely
covered a woman's neck and chin, was often worn with a veil over the top of the head.
As for the late Middle Ages, women's most dramatic headdresses were steeple headdress -a tall dunce shaped cap,
adorned with a veil- and the ram’s form headers -two conical horns that stuck off the side-. How they compete in
their headdresses. The most extravagant was the butterfly headdress -steeple headers adorned with starched and
ironed linen wings with multi winged butterfly shaped-
172
173
BERET -a soft round brimless cap made of
sturdy wool felt -with wind and water prevents
fabric- designed with a tight-fitting crown to make
it stay without the elastic. It made an excellent
protection from cold, wind, and rain popular as a
men’s headwear. French legends said that the one
who discovered wools as a waterproof and in fact a
weatherproof fabric was Noah the biblical hero, as
the wools were trampled by the animals which
created the tough felt fabric. However, there was
another source that said it was invented by
medieval shepherds who expose knitted wool to the
weather so it swelled and became a solid felt. The
origin is lost, but it became popular during Middle
Ages. Warm and practical as it keep the hair from
the face and it had no brim to get in a way of
shooter’s aim. That is why beret is still popular
in military uniforms.
174
BOWL HAIRCUT -a plain short haircut with a
straight bangs on the forehead and the same length for the rest
of the hair.
This haircut was popular as it was very simple. In fact, it got

its name by placing a bowl as the cutting guide. They had the
backs and sideburns shaved. The haircut was highly influenced by
The Crusades which was used in military and brought to the
culture by both military and religious leaders. Of course, it
had some adaptation to make with the complex and ornate
fashionable hats or head coverings. These cut was worn
throughout the centuries by the poor as they couldn’t afford
barbers.
However, it was brought to the popularity once again as a

British rock group, the Beatles wore a modern version.
175
COIF -a simple linen or wool
fabric cap that allows to cover
the hair and tied under the chin
worn by women, men, and children.
Usually worn alone, but could add
an additional warmth if worn
underneath another hat. Common
colour were black or white with
embroidered designs.
At first, it was only a simple

two-piece coif with a seam down
the middle head. after that it
transformed into three-piece coif
with two seams for more fitted
headwear.
It offer warmth and modesty both

by the wealthy and the poor.
However, the priests and monks
wore a simple linen coif, and the
travellers wore it beneath the
felt caps. Married women wore it
alone or beneath a veils. Later
around 1450, most of the coifs
worn by women which shapes and
sizes show the wealth and social
status. English women wore coifs
that came to one or several
points at the top, while French
and Flemish women wore round
coifs on top and tied under the
chin.
176
HOODS At the Roman Empire they had pulled a part of the outer
cloaks to the head and form the idea of hood. However, in the Middle
Ages, the hoods became detachable and act as a headwear all over
Europe.With many form of hoods, the most basic was a tube woolen
hoods featured an opening for the face. But the most common called
chaperon which featured a broad band of material spreader from the
neck covering the shoulders. Usually the fabric surrounded the head
with an opening in the face with excess fabric rolled backwards to
frame the face. However, the most interesting hood was liripipe -a
long narrow tube material which tapered to a point at the end- with
length ranging from 1 foot to several feet. The longer liripipes
could hang at the back or worn like a scarf. Hoods protect the users
from cold and rain, but sometimes they use the hood like a turban.
177
RAM’S HORN HEADDRESS -
also called horned hennin, from two sculpted
horns or curved cones that stacked out from the
sides of temple. It was constructed from wire
mesh which was secured to fit skullcap which
length up to three feet. Covered with fabric and
layered with thin gauzy veils draped between the
horns. The end of the horns were decorated with
small flags or other ornaments. The most
extravagant often used for the ceremonies.
TONSURE -The most mysterious medieval

hairstyles. Christian religious leaders shaved
the top of their head as a sign of purity and
chastity. Tonsure's size and shape had many
variety. Some people used a semi-circle
meanwhile others used a full circle. Some shaved
just above the ears with a full hair below. Some
Catholic monks shaved all the hair but left a
fringe that looked like a crown.
178
STEEPLE HEADDRESS
Started with a stiff cone featured wide
end that sat on the top of the head and
the point jutting up and slightly back
covered with black velvet or silk.
As time goes by, the cone got longer

and longer extended to four feet. The
cone was covered with patterned fabric
as decoration. Sometimes a sheer veil
attached at the end of the steeple,
hung down or draped to cover the
woman’s shoulders.
It was hard to keep it on the head, so

it was pinned to a simple cloth cap
with a tie under the chin. But because
it grew taller, women create more
substantial under caps with sturdy
anchors. Later on, it was trendy to
plucked their hair into the steeple.
179
WIMPLE -or whimple
a light veils made from linen or silk
fastened by the neck up to the chin worn
by women which offer protection from the
weather and modesty. It was common for
married woman to cover their hair.
At the bottom, commonly tucked into the

dress's collar. Commonly worn by with a
veil called a couvrefchef-covered the
top of the head and flowed down over the
shoulders. The wimple and veil was a
combination to demonstrate modesty which
covers everything except the face. The
wealthy used it to show their wealth by
attaching jewellery. They often placed a
circle of fabric or metal to act as a
crown to hold it in place. It was
extremely popular by nuns who choose to
give their lives to Catholic as well as
dress simply and at the end it were
adopted as their uniform dress.
180
Body decorations
People did less to adorn themselves, instead of taking Roman Empire’s traditions, they took the crude
barbarian groups tradition. Catholic Religion in Europe left the excessive decoration, and people in
Middle Ages also didn’t have the money to spend on jewellery. There were jewellery made out of gold but
in such a low construction standard. By the late Middle Ages, they were able to stocked their wealth and
eventually wore jewellery.
People did’t care on how they looked, however they took public baths tradition. One king bathed once
every three weeks, the subjects must have had less than that.
To improve their make ups, women wore variant of mixture such as blood-sucking leeches which was applied
to the face to make it pale and quicklime-a caustic powder- to shave. They use some mixtures to bleach
their hair, cultivated dried roses, spices, and vinegar to perfumed themselves. As for the make ups,
they basically painted their faces with colours, Germany prefer pink, Britain prefer white, while Spain
prefer red rouge. Eye makeup includes variant shades of eyeliner and eyeshadow. Plucking the eyebrows
was a notable innovation at this era.
They used a several iconic accessories, like small satchels or purses that usually tied or tucked into a
belt carried by mens. A new technique of close-fitting gloves were used and became a distinct fashion
accessory.
181
GLOVES
These were treated as a fashion accessory rather than its
function to bring warmth. A crude mittens which was lined with
fur was worn for outdoor working but it wasn't as advanced
because they haven't learnt how to do stitches between the
fingers. They commonly warming their hands with the extra
fabric from the baggy clothing. However, Middle Ages figured to
wore gloves as a fashion statement which was first used by
Royals, dignitaries from Roman Catholic Church, and dominant
church in Europe that acted as a symbol of purity. The rich
wore gloves to train falcons to land on one's hand. At first it
was made from deerskin or sheep skin. The gloves became popular
acted as a fancy accessories and add warmth to the hands that
portrayed Renaissance in western history.
PURSES
Men started to use small leather
bags that was fastened to the belts
or tied to the belt with the help a
of a string loop or leather strap
fastened to the purse. There was
not many information on the use of
men's purses but later on, it
adopted to women's purses and mens
brought their belongings in pockets
or wallet.
182
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FOOTWEAR
Footwear evolution signify a
larger social changes in European
history. After Roman Empire
collapsed, the barbarians tried
to settle in which results a
mixture of Romans empire and
nomadic footwear. At first it was
a stiff leather shoes that was
stitched and tied at the ankle.
For the north, they often wore a
fur leg-length shoes. As Europe
evolves, the footwear develops .
The Crusaders had taken
Byzantine's footwear style like a
long points shoes named crackowes
or poulaines.
Much more educated techniques was

learnt which offer close fitting
shoes with straps extended from
shoes up the shins featuring
buttons or buckles to tightened
the shoes. Hose becoming more
popular as it had developed into
sewn bottom sole which became a
practical footwear.
When women's dresses extended to

the floor, it covers their
footwear which made historians
had no idea about women's
footwear.
183
CRACKOWES and POULAINES
Both were a decorated leather shoes featured long
pointed toes. Pistachios, were more extreme with the
24inches-long toes over the wearer’s feet supported by
thin chain to connect the toe to the knee.
Once again the Crusaders brought the Oriental-style

pointed slipper from East to the West. Which we already
know, the points of the shoes grew even longer. Extreme
fashions were popular as they appreciated life more than
ever after the plague, Black Death.
It was called crackowes -city of Krákow,Poland- and

poulaines as its popularity arisen because it was worn
by Polish nobles which shoes were widely imitated after
that.
The shoes could be 6inches or 24inches which hole

usually stuffed with hay or whalebone to hold the shape.
Crackowes shows more than just fashion, it also present
their social status since those who wore it couldn't
move a lot.
The traditional institutions such as church leaders or

political rules takes the new fashion disgraceful and
called the shoes “devil’s fingers”. There was a law made
to limit the wearer based on their social classes. It
became more conservative but remained popular and
fashionable among the wealthy young men.
184
comparisons
Backstage at the Christian Dior autumn/winter 2017

comparisons
Shoes by Gianni Morano, Couture 2013

What makes it similar is the points at the end of the shoes.
Both have similar color and shape tightened around

the head. 185
http://local-moda.blogspot.com/2014/03/medieval-origin-of-modern-shoes.html
https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/fashion-special-we-all-want-diors-beret-dlctgzt5b
comparisons
Tadashi Shoji - Fall
2014, both have the
same shape, color,
length, except for
the hood.
comparisons
Yigal Azrouel
Spring/Summer
2013, Have the
same hooded
and connected
to the dress.
comparisons
Oscar De La Renta fall 2016

collection. Both were embroidered
with jewels and have same color even
though little different in shape.
https://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/dressed/0910_athletic_yigal-fa.jpg
https://www.vogue.com
186
|15th Century Costume.
187
Eleanor of Portugal, Holy Roman Empress. Knight making
188
German patrician, French Swiss military costumes in
court dresses 15th century. 15th century.
German Men`s dress of the first half of the 15th century
German Men`s dress, second half of the 15th century.
189
15th Century Costume
At the Europe, most of the people were peasants who worked
at a small farm to paid taxes to a local lord or the
landlord which provide protection. Lords could be dukes,
barons, or kings as the leading figures. These leaders were
helped by advisers, leading merchants -formed the court-,
and warriors-knights who fought for them-. In England and
France the lords joined forces and choose a King, Henry VI
for England and Francis I for France. Europe’s kingdoms
fights to each other in wars but unites for profitable
outcomes. The top authorities was Catholic Church which was
the sole religious institution in Europe. Roads made from
Roman Empire helped Europeans in connecting with trading and
commerce which helped in spreading fashion feuds as well.
England, France, Italy, Germany, and Spain dress similar to
each others.
The shift between 14th century and 15th century was a

rebirth era in learning, culture, and commerce, called
Renaissance. It was started in Burgundy, Florence, Italy
which developed banking and trading systems to stabilise
Europe’s economy which made Burgundy a wealthy region. It
leads to money spent on art, learning, clothing, and
jewellery. The business man expanded their businesses
especially in textile industry which produce accessible rich
fabrics.
After that all countries in Europe stopped wars and focused

on self-developing which brings Europe to its best states.
This is the era for Europe’s evolutions in every aspects
including clothing.
printing.
190
("Europe in the Fifteenth Century - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018)
CLOTHING
15th century became a staple in Fashion World, it was all about
traditions, fabric availability, and skills of the tailor. The
fashion for 30 centuries haven’t changed that much, however in
15th century it began to greatly emphasise. In this era, many
people were able to collect wealth which leads to more people
dress keep up with trends and dress extravagantly especially
in Burgundy as their duke, Philip III became the trendsetter.
People still wore houppelande and overgarments like mantle, and

the cote and cotehardie. However women’s houppelandes were more
fitted and the skirt billowed outward. Women also wore bliaut
while men prefer to wear tunic or pourpoint -which were
transformed to doublet- with hose and breeches.
Prince, squire, anf servant.
191
The wealth growth allows people to afford
different fabrics-silk, taffeta, velvet- and
traditional cotton, wool, and linen. People
were able to follow the trends from Burgundy,
Italy. Men prefer fitted doublets and hose,
which were sewn together at the genital area
and produce codpiece-paddings for the genitals.
Later on, the paddings moved to the shoulders.
Pregnant look and billowing sleeves evolved

into fitted torso and fitted arms dresses while
the skirts billowed outwards. Round hoops
called farthingales were planted inside Spain
women's skirts to give shape and swish effect
as they walked which will became popular in
16th century.
Costumes once again was a show-offs as

technique like slashing and dagging were
popularly used, especially during the
Renaissance.
192
15th century sleeve pattern. Pattern of Cloak
French merchant of
Marriage.
glass and crystal
193
DAGGING and SLASHING
-a technique in decorating garments in order
to distinguish and beautify it based on the
trend. Both technique shows the importance of
unique details in Renaissance's fashion.
Dagging -various pattern-cutting in the edges

of fabric. U, V, or leaf shapes, were the
common patterns or dagges. Slashing -a
fashion statement to slits the outer fabric
to reveal the inner lining -usually bright
coloured-. It was brought by Swiss army
troops that was defeated by the duke of
Burgundy which producing tiny cuts in their
tents, banners, and garments. In the early
15th century, the dagging and slashing were
used on both sexes garments including shoes.
194
DOUBLET -a short over-shirt with slight paddings featuring buttons at the front could have sleeves or not,
one of men's essentials. The basic shape was inspired by pourpoint while the garment keep developing to follow the
trend. Doublet reflects the duplicated layers of the material. Linen was often used as the inner lining, meanwhile
heavy silk used for the outer layer. The one who's following the trend was filling which was the bombast or padding.
Doublets stoped at the waist and worn with short skirt, breeches ,and hose.
In late 15th and early 16th century broad shoulders were popular which made
people filling paddings to the shoulder and upper arms. Peascod-belly which
had paddings added to the lower stomach in order to give pregnant shape to
the mens were seen in late 16th century.
Doublet acted as an important garment

which leads the evolution of long
draped garmets to fitted styles of
Renaissance. At first it was buttoned
to the neck but later it turned into
wide V shape to show the linen shirts
and ruffs which was fashionable. The
tight fitting sleeves changed to puffy
sleeves at the upper arms. The sleeves
were detachable with the hidden
fasteners on the doublet.
195
Pattern of outer garment
196
HEADWEAR
At first 15th century still lived in late Middle Ages where men wore a bowl cut or clean shaven even though
Italians choose long and curly hair. A fact that English law not allowing mens to grew moustache. As for the
headwear, common hood and turbans were still seen. The new one was sugar-loaf hat (felt or wool hat featuring a
large loaves shaped bulge sticking off the back top of the head.
Married women covered their hair but before marriage they prefer long hair often braided or piled on top of the
head. The wealthy women took extra care of their hair like plucking and shaving forehead's hair and the back hair
so it won't distract the use of their headwear. Steeple and ram's horn developed with elongated profile of the
head. They decorate the veils to add bulk not solely for modesty.
197
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Bourrelet -a thick padded roll to add bulk worn as their hat with straps
or pins to hold. Even though it was very heavy, uncomfortable and limit
the wearer movement, many women wore the piece. People from lower
classes wore a simple headwear like coif or beret while women wore
wimple or barbe to cover their chin and neck.
As Italian mens began to be the trendsetter, all men through out Europe
began to choose longer hair-shoulder length. Even though facial hair
became important, beards or moustaches were not seen. More ornament like
feathers were added to their hats. Tall cone shaped headdresses popular
among women. However, after 1480s tall headwear were replaced to shorter
headwear which framed the face.
Rich jewels and embroidery decorated the fabric headdresses. When

headwear goes simple, the hairstyle goes extra. Braided, woven into
ornate buns with ribbons, jewels, and string of pearls added. Wigs
became popular among the wealth as they were too lazy to took extra care
for their hair. Blonde hair were trending in Italy, since Roman Republic
era.
198
199
BARBE -formal version of wimple, a form of neck drapery. A
piece of cloth fitted under the chin with the excess fabric draped
in front of the chest reflects men's beard which what form barbe
word. As we know that married womens need to cover their heads to be
wrapped in modesty with only face visible. Barbe was one of the
popular garments among the womens mostly worn with a veils. It was
also popularly worn by widows or those in mourning. Commonly made
from white linen with tiny pleats ironed to the cloth. The sides of
the garments brought up to the side of the head and pinned on the
top. Another version called barbette -little beard- made from a
strip of linen passed under the chin, brought up to the ears and
around the top of the head. This however, didnt give as much
coverage as barbe.
200
Body decorations
15th century was a transition for people to ornamented their
bodies using jewellery and accessories showing wealth and
success. People didn’t bath except wealthy people in Italy which
took shower once every few weeks. To cover their body odor, they
used perfume which were simple and consisted of crushed flowers
and spices. And to masked some offensive odors, some people
brought small metal ball consists crushed flowers and herbs.
Instead of using bold colours make ups, they used ‘skin care’s to
give pale skin effects and used subtle pink for cheek blush or
red for their lips. In order to get pale skins, they used
dangerous chemical in their face which stayed for several days,
these happened because of the lack of informations.
Jewellery used to show wealth, starting with Burgundy’s people

who hired craftsmen to make detailed necklaces, rings, and
pendants from gold. Diamonds started to show as a new cutting
techniques came, which show the brilliance of the gem. Necklaces
and wide jewelled collars showed as precious gems or gold
pendants. Some broad belts were decorated with gold chains
holding keys, a mirror, or a scented ball. Ring became popular
with custom made detailed designs, however earrings were not
common except in Spain.
Gloves from thin deer and rabbit’s skin also came to the society
as a new fitted techniques were discovered. It also have
function, when covered with perfume, to mask the offensive odors.
201
Head-dress, Clasp for a Cloak, Rosary and Alms-box.
202
FOOTWEAR
In 15th century, Europeans wore a simple pull-on leather moccasins
and highly decorated poulaines. Most of the shoes made of leather
with wood or leather as its soles, and tightened with laces or
buckles. Heavy leather shoes and boots worn by working people,
meanwhile the rich people wore fancy shoes which mostly come to a
point. Crackowes and poulaines remained popular which create the
competition on the length of the shoes. However, the long shoes
shifted into the broad, chunky shaped shoes -squared off toes or
toe boxed- around 1470s.
Soled hose also remained popular with pattens to protect the sole.
Pattens were a wooden outdoors overshoes featured two wooden
blocks to avoid the mud and street’s dust. Some patten also seen
in Japan and Arab.
Women’s also followed the tracks of men’s footwear evolution from

long-pointy to short-rounded. Unfortunately, their long dresses
interfere the historians to discover more details.
203
Santino Rince (2005): Top of
this outfit is derive form
the pourpoint/doublet with
the same sleeve puffs, and
base skirts.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2013

Both have bulged bottoms
with boots have pleats
as well.
Tinelinhard-The Pomander
in 18 kt. gold with a
0.10 ct. twvvs brilliant
cut diamond. Both have
the same functions and
the same material.
204
https://id.pinterest.com/pin/409335053603584723/?lp=true
https://tinelindhard.com/jewellery/the-pomander-gold-pendant/
Jean Paul Gaultier with the cone hair, the same
structure and shape, but different in material.
Comme des Garcons Homme

Plus black leather 'Jugo
Boots', ss 2015
205
https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/shoes/comme-des-garcons-homme-plus-black-leather-jugo-boots-ss-2015/id-v_4025371/
https://mwafrika-nywele.blogspot.com/2013/07/style-stalker-valentino-jean-paul.html?view=flipcard
|16th Century Costume.
206
It was a period known as the Renaissance, since Europe saw a
resurrection of learning, expressions, and culture that had not
been seen since the magnificence of the Greek and Roman domains of
a thousand years past. This resurrection was supported by the
ascent of colleges, the formation of the principal printing press
in 1455, which permitted book distribution to thrive, and across
the board bolster for expressions of the human experience by
affluent supporters. Extending exchange made a new opportunity ,
energising the development of the white collar class; religious
contention started war and added to the becoming stronger and
autonomy of countries all through Europe; taking into account more
noteworthy populace development.
Amid the Middle Ages numerous minor lords, dukes, and different
nobles had administered little areas. By the sixteenth century,
nonetheless, nobles in the districts that moved to England,
France, and Spain had thought of a framework that advanced more
noteworthy soundness. They gave their help—as assessments and
warriors—to a solitary incredible ruler. The economies of France,
England, and Spain enhanced. The ruler's capacity laid on the
certainty that was depended in him or her by the nation's numerous
nobles, so it was not constantly steady. Not the majority of the
regions of Europe were sorted out. City-states were the essential
type of association, and they were controlled by the wealth
families like the Medici family. These city-states blossomed with
managing an account and exchange. In present-day Germany an
assortment of states were inexactly composed under the expert of
the pope. Both of these areas would not compose into brought
together countries until the nineteenth century.
207
("Sixteenth-Century Clothing - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018)
One of the powers that had joined Europe through the Middle Ages
was the religious solidarity given by the Roman Catholic Church.
That solidarity disintegrated in the fifteenth and particularly
the sixteenth century. The most ground-breaking power behind the
decrease of the Catholic Church was an authentic occasion called
the Protestant Reformation. The Reformation started in 1517 when
German cleric Martin Luther (1483– 1546) posted a progression of
dissents about chapel maltreatment on the entryway of a
neighborhood Catholic church. Before long numerous others joined
Luther in his break from Catholicism. Before the century's over
these dissenting gatherings, called Protestants, had made
unmistakable religions of their own. These new religions, for
example, Lutheranism, Calvinism, and Puritanism, turned out to
be particularly persuasive in northern Europe.
With Protestants set against Catholics, and with Catholics in

various parts of Europe contending over divisions of intensity,
religion turned into a wellspring of genuine clash all through
Europe. Ground-breaking rulers, for example, Henry VIII of
England (1491– 1547), concluded that they, not the pope, ought
to be the leader of the congregation in their country. In 1534
Henry VIII proclaimed himself the leader of the Church of
England. A lot of progressively vital occasions and patterns
that formed the sixteenth century, not slightest the further
opening of the New World to exchange and investigation, yet the
ascent of ground-breaking countries with solid and complex
economies had the best effect on the course of human outfit. 208
People began to choose what to wear that later contributed to the
change of style we know as "trendsetter". other examples are the
spread of books, expansion of trade, exploration and increase in
power and wealth of monarchies, especially in France, Britain and
Spain. Wool production in the UK and silk in Italy allowed the
creation of "rich" fabric. can be seen in kings and palace members in
this century who followed the trend and bought the most expensive
clothes. not only members of the work but people who are up and down
can also buy these clothes.
"clothing can show their strength", trusted by kings and queens in

European countries. except for France's Francis I king, he
deliberately chose unique and strange clothes and then challenged
courtiers to imitate his style, as a way of affirming his leadership.
the king who followed the trend created by king Francis I was the
king of France hendry III, establishing the use of lace for men. even
though the biggest fashion trendsetter in this century was elizabeth
I of England.
effort and pressure to stay in fashion, especially for nobles in

England and France who are expected to entertain the king and members
of work when the members of the work travel. feeling pressured to
throw a big party and wear the latest and most expensive fashion.
travel members work often makes them almost bankrupt. "at the great
country houses the progresses of the queen and her entourage were
welcome as a visitation from assassins." in the sixteenth century
people were also able to get information about fashion from printed
books, where the first book was a book on advice for men entitled
Badassare castiglione's II contegiano (1561) translated into several
languages and English as one of the translations of the book entitled
book of courtier
209
For all the changes that fashion brought to the clothing of the sixteenth century, the basic form of garments
remained fairly stable. The standard garments worn by men were hose and breeches for the lower body and a doublet, a
padded overshirt, with attached sleeves for the upper body. During the early part of the century men often wore a
prominent codpiece over their genitals, but this garment virtually disappeared by the end of the century. Both men
and women wore ruffs, wide pleated collars, around their necks. Men wore a shirt beneath their doublets, and they
wore a variety of cloaks and mantles, a type of cape, over the doublet. Perhaps the most memorable was the mandilion,
a cloak draped over one shoulder almost purely as a fashion statement. The basic garment for women was the gown, but
it was far from simple. Actually a combination of several garments, including bodice, sleeves, skirts, and
underskirts, sixteenth-century gowns have been considered some of the most beautiful garments of any era in history.
cutting, color, the use of jewelry, ribbons and other accessories are evidence that people in this century are
constantly looking for ways to express and develop their style of taste, each of which is not stopped by the fact
that clothing is worn "consistently" or wear in the same way.
French nobility fashion Italian renaissance Italy fashion end of the

16th century. fashion, 16th century. 16th century.
210
HEADWEAR
As in the preceding several centuries, the hairstyles worn during the sixteenth
century were driven by the tastes of kings, queens, and their courts. During the
early part of the century, for example, French king Francis I (1494–1547) wore his
hair in a long bob and many in France followed his example. In 1521 an accident led
to a portion of Francis's hair catching fire, and the king was forced to cut his
hair short. Again, his court and many other Frenchmen followed suit. Henry VIII
(1491 – 1547), the king of England, liked the new French style and cut his hair
short. In fact, he liked his short hair so much that in 1535 he commanded everyone
in his court to cut their hair as short as his. The trend toward short hair for
men, usually worn no longer than the bottom of the ears, continued for the better
part of the century. It was only very late in the century that men began to grow
their hair long, and they would keep it long for nearly two centuries.
The same kings who liked short hair also preferred beards, and there were a
great variety of beard styles worn throughout the century. Only older men and
poor men wore long, poorly trimmed beards. Upper-class men and those who
wanted to be fashionable trimmed their beards and mustaches neatly. Some of
the most popular styles were the pique devant, a narrow beard that came to a
point, and the spade, which was shaped like a slightly rounded shovel. Some
men cut their beard off square and others were even known to wear a forked
beard.
211
Men also wore a variety of hats. Early in the century simple bonnets or caps,
low, soft hats with narrow brims, were most popular. After about the 1570s,
however, larger hats became more popular. Hats could be made of felt, leather,
or even fur. The copotain, a tall, round-crowned hat with a medium brim, was
one of the most popular hats. Hats could be worn very simply, or they might be
adorned with feathers, jewels, or decorative headbands.
Women continued to wear the large hats and headdresses of the previous century,
but only in the earliest part of the sixteenth century. The custom that kept
mature or married women from showing any of their hair in public was fading,
and hat styles began to allow more of the hair to show. By midcentury hats and
veiled headdresses, called lappets, and French hoods stood away from the
forehead and temples to reveal rows of artfully curved hair. Very late in the
century, and especially among royal women such as Queen Elizabeth (1533–1603)
of England, small coronets (crowns) or jeweled hairpieces replaced the hat and
allowed a nearly complete display of the hair. Elizabeth had dramatic red hair,
but she was known to possess eighty wigs of varying color and style. Women
continued to wear their hair as they had during the fifteenth century: long and
straight and styled with a variety of braids, curls, rolls, and other forms of
wrapping. Metal hairpins were first used to keep hair in place in 1545, and by
the end of the century women were using wire hair frames called palisades to
give structure to their elaborately braided and styled hair. It was very common
for women to add strings of jewels or flowers to their hair, or to string
ribbons through their braids. Wigs or sections of false hair were also used
when the woman's own hair was too thin or not long enough for the desired
style. Also, many women used dyes or other methods to color their hair, with
blond and red being favorite colors.
212
BODY DECORATION
Wealthy people do extra treatment on their hair and make up. Poorer
people bath very rarely compared to the wealth. They believed that
water would made them sick. Pancake make up were popular, with bright
red rouge lips and cheek. These cosmetics were toxic and destructed
their face.
Both sexes wore accessories like for men, they wore simple leather
belt, highly ornamented sword, and leather gloves tucked into their
belt. Women carried fans, soft Cordoba leather gloves, handkerchief,
and pomander -gold ball consists of perfume-.
Men wore rings, dangling neck chains, pendants, and jewelled earrings.
Women wore rings on every finger, bracelets and necklaces. Goldworking
skills were advanced and produce distinctive ornamented garments.
Women often laced strings of pearls into their hair, and ruffs, wide
pleated collars, and high collars were also studded with small pearls
and jewels. The jewellery, accessories, and makeup discussed were used
only by the wealthy people who attended the courts of the kings and
queens of Europe and perhaps by the wealthiest merchants of European
cities. Most ordinary people in the sixteenth century could not afford
and would have had little use for these impractical elements of
costume.
213
FOOTWEAR
The construction was highly advanced in the
durability. wood, cork, or extra leathers as
its soles, uppers, and tied or buckled to
tightened. Cobblers-shoemakers- were
competent enough to make thigh-boots for
riding or field work which featured rollable
floppy leather cuff. Fancier designs worn by
the upper class men but commonly used by
military units.
They prefer trend over comfort in their

footwear. Wide-toed shoes or duck’s bill
shoes were a leather slip-ons which flared
out up to 12inches at the toe and gave duck
walk to the wearer. By mid-century the trend
fades and replaced by soft leather, silk, or
velvet slippers which match their outfit.
Chopine which had 24inches platform were
popular even though it was hard to use. From
this point, both sexes preferred thick
platform where wedge heels first introduced.
Ribbons, bows, and jewels were added to
decorate their shoes. However, these shoes
were indoor only, they needed to wore
overshoes like pattens or pantofles to secure
their shoes outdoor. 214
Bases were a skirt to replace hose and breeches made
from stiff heavy cloth with colourful panelled fabric worn
for ceremony especially for armies as it signify their
strength. In order to make the panels rounded or pleated it
needs to be attached to the inner lining. Underneath the
bases often used fitting leg stockings.
215
Bombast -cotton, wool, horsehair, or sawdust form of stuffing
to pad or add more shape to the shoulders, chest, and stomach to the
garments.It was added to over shirt, bodice, pumpkin breeches, and
Venetians -sleeves and shoulders of women’s gown-.
Nowadays the word bombast evolved to bombastic referring to the extra
and glamorous the padding gave to their bodies.
216
Farthingale was compilations
of stiff wood or wicker hoops, sewn to the
under-skirt and anchored to the waist with
ties to give the skirt a desirable shape.
First used by Spain women called vertugados
with small loop below the waist and larger
hoops to the end which gives cone shape.
They commonly wore twi skirts, the outer
was to reveal the middle skirt.
Women began experiencing with widened the

top of the skirt with padded roll and
adjusted the shapes. French which was a
wheel or drum farthingale give the drum
shape with identical hoops. Lastly a bell
farthingale which used both, padding and
hoops to give large bell shape. It evolved
over the time like panniers, crinolines,
and bustles.
cod piece -or braguette was a flap of fabric sewn at the genitals part
in man’s hose to help keep it hidden and protected. It was a garment which
help to preserve modesty and act as a fashion statement. Later on, it became
highly decorated and larger in size to make their genitals seemed bigger, so
big that it could fit their small weapons or valuables things. In fact, a
special opening was made at the doublet in order to show their erected penis
codpiece. Of course priest and clergy strongly opposed it, but it became
smaller and replaced by padded breeches because of Queen Elizabeth I.
("Sixteenth-Century Clothing - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018) 217
GOWN
Respectful woman of 16th century needs to wore a gown which also a piece to show wealth. Commonly made of
luxurious material like silk, velvet, and lace, decorated with pearls, beads, and jewels with stitched and
embroidered patterns. These gown acts as an art piece which common people imitated. These rich gowns
consisted of a bodice, skirt, and sleeves.
Bodice was a double layered fitted shoulder to waist covering with variety of neck opening, usually had a
large opening at shoulder to the chest and reveal a slight curve above their breasts, it became more and
more daring showing the cleavage. However, it often filled with chemise-transparent shirt- or decorative
ruffs. V-shaped panel was at front to define a point below the waist called stomacher which was stiffened
with bone or wood and padded bombast to give flat-chest profile.
218
The skirts were very wide and full, extended to the
floor from overlapping fabrics with the help of
Spanish farthingale or Drum farthingale to create the
shape. These gowns often had a wide opening to show
off undershirt or interior panel of different fabric,
called a partlet. To protect the gowns when going
outdoors, they usually used decorative apron or
safeguards.
Most of the sleeves were detachable with points or

small ties. Varying in shape and sizes from puffy
which was made of simple fabric with several laces,
ribbons, and bows. These puff could be combined at the
shoulder with sections of more closely fitted fabric.
Ornamental cuff was popular as well as false sleeves.
German with his waisted look and Spanish with cone

shaped skirt, Queen Elizabeth I set the style for all
Europe with there lavish gowns. After her death, more
than 3.000 gowns owned by her were recorded.
219
Aprons and safeguards
were the protectors of their gowns worn by all
social classes ad it were flexible. A panel of
fabric at the front part of skirt called an apron,
meanwhile the full outer skirt to protect from
weather called safeguard, which were worn to
protect the lavish gowns. For the poor, plain wool
or cotton crude aprons worn to protect while
working, meanwhile for the wealth, silk or velvet
aprons patterned and trimmed in laces or
embroidered with intricate patterns. The rich
usually have the safeguard matched the outfit. The
aprons attached with a tie at the waist.
220
Hose and breeches combination were
commonly used since 1200. Hose made from loose woven fabric
that were cut to snugly fit the leg i order to expose the
legs. Later on, hose was made with knitting to get more
stretchy, close-fitted look which will be popular on 17th
century. Hose reached the knee and set by garter if worn
together with longer breeches. As discussed earlier, longer
hose and shorter breeches became more popular especially in
off-white colours.
The most usuals, trunk hose breeches were connected to the

doublet with points which almost looked like a puffy short
skirt. Commonly worn with canions, loose-fitting upper leg
hose. More exaggerated version was pumpkin breeches with
contrasting fabric’s panel which were ballooned outward to
shape a large pumpkin. Venetians were a padded bree which
gets slimmer as it reached the knee. Pluderhose were a fully
baggy hose from waist to knee until it hides the fastening at
the knee. Slops, were the longest breeches which reached the
calf.
Simple hose and breeches were popular to all classes but

wool, cotton, silk, velvet made breeches, with panels,
bombast paddings, and lace strips trims were used to
challenge the trend.
221
MANDILION
-was a silk, velvet,
or linen long-
sleeved cloak
stopped at the waist
with front opening.
It was popular among
the soldiers, worn
over both shoulders
like regular cloak
or draped it over
one shoulder and
left the other
hanging, ‘Collie-
Westonward'.
222
RUFF -was a wide pleated collar stiffened with starch stood out like a
wheel surrounding the neck. It was extremely hard to made these ruff.
However, these awkward ruff were popular among the wealth as it hold the
head in proud and lordly pose. Their garment’s string were pulled which
create a ruffle around the neck. It became popular and made as a separate
garment made of cloth or lace. Varying in size and style the ruff could be
1 inch or 12inches, either closed-stiff- or opened -loose-. These ruff drew
controversies and still popular even though it was impractical as people
have to used long utensils to eat. Queen Elizabeth made a law to limit the
width of the ruff.
MEDICI COLLAR - is a wide pleated collars as the extention

of ruffs offered a tremendous frame around the sides and back of women's
head. Worn with décolleté neckline which shown a woman's cleavage. With
the help of wire or heavy starch, these collars or lace could reach some
heights towering over the wearer's shoulders and head. Decorated with mini
jewels. It got its name from France's Queen, Catherine de Médicis, however
became popular because of Queen Elizabeth I. Some medici collars were
still seen but only in pageants or shows.
223
SLEEVES -fabric arm covering , usually detachable with points, but sometimes attached directly to the
garments. If it was detachable, usually could be worn in several garments to have more choices in mix and match. The
false sleeves worn together with regular sleeves attached at the shoulder and hung down behind the arm.
The most common styles were panes, padding, and puffs (large multiple fabric puffed out wrapping the upper shoulder arm
or sometimes elbow or wrists). Panes featured contrasting color panelled fabrics -sometimes pleated- ran the length of
the sleeve. The popular style was rising panes which caught several panes to vertical puffs.
Rounded melon shaped sleeves were made from several padding and stiffenings to add volume to the arms. Puffs and panels
were combined with a fitted length of sleeve. Involving ribbons, jewel, and slashing techniques. Made of rich fabrics
like silk and velvet with some lace or linen cuffs at the end.
("Sixteenth-Century Clothing - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages", 2018) 224
comparisons Valentino Fall
2016 Couture- EE
comparisons
Similar in the
makings, colours,
and shape even
though in a
smaller size.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2013, acted as

a Safeguard ti protect the
dow, have same opening event
made from less fabrics.
225
comparisons
comparisons
comparisons
Valentino Fall 2016
Galliano Fall 2010, The Alexander McQueen Autumn/
Couture- EE, the same
same bulking on Winter 2013-14 Ready-To-
sleeves shape, mantle,
genieals area, COD Wear PFW, the same drum-
openings, and length,
piece, different in shaped farthingale even
though different in
matchings. though it was shorter.
materials.
Tumblr. (2018).
("Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2013 Ready-To-Wear show report", 2018) 226
Conclusion
As many knows, fashion have its own cycle. What
was old-fashion could become trendy in a split
second. just like history itself, whatever
happens in the past will affect its future.
from social perspectives, pride, and many more.
From the ancient until today’s time. People
still wants to follow the trend, as wants the
society to admit how wealthy or trendy you are.
The trends from the past could became trendy
again as long as it is re-interpreted or not,
and adjusted to the society. Ideas from the
past were brilliants and will be more advanced
as human learns from the past’s mistakes.
227
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History of Costume: Pre-Historic - 20th Century

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Fashion History

Any material obtained from other

If in the future my work proven to be

Date : December 13th, 2018

Unfortunately, the sources of information is mainly based on the

Strong hunters took advantages of animals around them. A way to make

This needle is made to

The Venus of Willendorf

Both of the Venus sculpture indicates

Pre-historic loin cloth

The pre-historic pants and

As you can see

Foot wear comparison

gold and symmetrical

lapis lazuli from this stone as seen on

serpent vulture sphinx

Ancient Egyptian children

Wealthy children wore similar

Having a great accessories and

The nemes headdress, is

The crown usually worn by pharaoh for

Rouge on their cheeks, red coloured ointment on their lips,

Not forget to mention their iconic eye make up. Green

They used to make perfumes from many different plants,

Both have some gold ornaments

Dolce and Gabbana Fall 2011 jeweled

Have the same make up as cleopatra and also hair decoration-beads,

Mummy like wraps

Originally inspired by the

Valentino Spring summer 2015

As people now, fashion is not a island, it is a response, Fashion

But in Mesopotamia, not many change.

On the right is Mesopotamia Lamassu are human-headed, eagle-winged, bulls or lions

tunic and shawl.

Ur-Nanshe, King of Lagash

pleated crown that had

Just like Egyptian, they have

large wigs ready to wear

Beards always a sign of wisdom

But just like any other era, some of

The famous gold crown, Nimrud

As for their make up and beauty, they

Footwear for both sexes was made

Fringe ended on the material 57

As you can see the straps is placed

Prada_Spring summer 2013 Collection Tarte Be A Mermaid & Make Waves

Their main fiber was wool, but they also have

Minoan fresco: priest-king

The top part of women’s skirts are

Like the other, they use tunics as

A variety of headwear can be seen

Woman wearing the Greek chiton and himation.

Man (left) wearing the

Take a large piece of material (like an old sheet). Its

Youth wearing a Phrygian cap, marble,

They are a exact twins of each

The pattern used is

Both made out of gold and

Chanel cruise 2018. Paris

Fashion History 