Construction checklists

To help you maintain control over your house construction – and be another set of eyes for
mistakes – we’ve put together a comprehensive construction checklist. Some of this you can
do, some of this your designer can do.

If this is the first page you’ve come to on the Building Guide, have a look around if you’re
building or renovating. We have a load of advice around key things you need to know, some
hints and tips and advice around insurances or  guaranteeing your builder and their work,
financing your project, costs of building and product options that will help your project run
smoother, give you what you want and reduce the likelihood of things going wrong…

1. General Building Checks

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Materials and products match what was specified.

Timber is at specified moisture levels on installation.

Timber has the correct preservative treatment for its location.

The house is set out correctly on the site.

Plans and specifications are followed.

Materials are installed to manufacturers’ instructions so you get the warranty.

Finished construction is protected from the weather.

2. Early Stages Construction

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Earthmoving and excavation

Is the hole for excavation staked out correctly?

Are the walls vertical and even?

Has it gone to the correct depth?

Are all cut earth faces supported and “cut in”?

Where can this affect neighbouring properties?

Retaining walls

Retaining walls must be included in the building consent and signed off.

Is the ground supported during construction?

Ensure the wall is drained behind and waterproofed/tanked if necessary.

Footings and foundations

Footings need to be straight and correctly positioned, though the finish doesn’t have to be smooth.
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Drainage and underground plumbing

Are the pipes in the correct position, i.e. not where you may want to put paths or gardens?

Are the drain holes or pipe vents in locations that will interfere with future use of the grounds, e.g.
where you may want to put paths or entertaining areas?

Are the vents in the right position?

Will the drains carry sufficient water?

Does your drainage system meet the Building Code?

Concrete slabs

The concrete is laid on top of several things put in beforehand. There is a layer of compacted base
course, a polythene vapour barrier, plumbing pipes and pipes taking electrical and other cable, in-
floor heating and polystyrene insulation if required.

There are additives that can be applied to the concrete to reduce cracking during or following
curing; the concrete can be coloured, polished and/or ground.

Ensure the floor is fully laid in one pour and there is no lag between deliveries.

Ensure the concrete is cured properly under advice from your builder.

Scaffolding

Is your builder using scaffolding or approved safety measures for working from heights. If not, they
can be fined up to $500,000 and imprisoned for two years.

Is the scaffolding secure?

Are there safety barriers?

 Industry Associations: Cement & Concrete Association of NZ  and NZ Ready Mixed Concrete
Association.

3. Flooring and Framing

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Wooden flooring

Are the floor joists even and solid?

Has the flooring timber been evenly laid?

Has the timber been sufficiently seasoned?

Are the plywood/chipboard panels secured properly and are they even – is there any
movement or squeaks?
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Underfloor foil insulation is the minimum level of insulation you require under the Building
Act but never shy away from increasing your level of insulation.

Framing

Are the nogs (the cross-bars in the framing) level with each other?

Are the studs (the upright timber) as spaced correctly at 600mm?

If using timber framing, is the timber sufficiently dry and of the correct preservative
treatment?

Are the doors and windows correctly positioned and of correct sizes? Are the bracing
elements in place?

Brick and block laying

Have they been laid even and straight?

s there a satisfactory level of quality finish with no evidence of mortar splashes?

Are the ventilation gaps free of excess mortar?

 Further reading: Frame and Truss Manufacturers Association of NZ.

4. Plumbing
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Will you have adequate water pressure? Discuss with your plumber, designer and bathroomware
supplier together if you can – water pressure can be a major source of confusion on installation.

Have you worked with your plumber to ensure the pipes will be quiet?

Is the bathroom plumbing correctly positioned?

Do you have sufficient outdoor taps for hoses wherever you may need them?

Are the gas pipes all installed in the correct position?

Check the correct filters are in place for pipe size and water pressure.

Is the hot-water source close enough to the kitchen/bathroom taps to minimise time lag?

Are the nogs (the cross-bars in the framing) level with each other?

Are the studs (the upright timber) as spaced correctly at 600mm?

If using timber framing, is the timber sufficiently dry and of the correct preservative treatment?

Are the doors and windows correctly positioned and of correct sizes? Are the bracing elements in
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place?

 Further reading: NZ Metal Roofing & Cladding Manufacturers.

5. Roofing
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Roofing

All roofing must be laid straight and true and fixed correctly.

Fixings (screws) must be evenly and neatly set out.

All flashings, barge boards and ridge cappings must be in place.

Do you have a guarantee with the roof?

Have you supplied the roof shout?

Framing

Are the nogs (the cross-bars in the framing) level with each other?

Are the studs (the upright timber) as spaced correctly at 600mm?

If using timber framing, is the timber sufficiently dry and of the correct preservative
treatment?

Are the doors and windows correctly positioned and of correct sizes? Are the bracing
elements in place?

 Further reading: Master Plumbers.

6. Exterior Envelope
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Exterior cladding

Is your cladding installer an LBP or being supervised by one?

Is the cladding handled and installed as per manufacturer’s instructions with no damaged panels
used? (Important - if not, warranties may be void)

Are the flashings done correctly and properly waterproofed?

Are the joins in panels even and level and regular?

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If using flat panels, is there sufficient weatherproofing?

Are battens used to aid in drainage for water that gets behind the cladding?

Is the cladding finished properly so the job looks neat?

Weather-tightness

Avoid decks enclosed by solid walls with a lack of drainage and perhaps a handrail attached to the
top of the top of the wall – water cannot drain and the weather proofing skin may have been
pierced by the handrails.

Avoid wall cladding materials finished hard down onto a deck surface or paving or paths: the
cladding will absorb water from the surface it is finished onto.

Avoid wall cladding that extends below ground level or landscaping materials, including mulch,
built up against the wall – materials that are continuously damp will quickly deteriorate.

Avoid decks that are constructed to the same height as the internal floor, with no fall for drainage,
compounded by an outlet that can get blocked.

Ensure suspended timber floors have space below the floor for ventilation to remove moisture
evaporating from the ground.

Avoid using silicon sealant rather than properly designed flashings. Ensure head and sill flashings
are installed over windows and joinery.

Ensure parapet walls have cap flashings.

Kick-outs or diverters to apron flashings where roofs abut a wall surface ensure that water flows
into the gutter and not down inside walls.

Ensure monolithic claddings and tiled finishes have movement- control joints that allow building
movement to occur without cracking the materials.

Ensure adequate detailing on junctions between materials.

Check the difference in levels between the surface outside and floor inside and/or that there is
good drainage – without these the building may well fail to meet the performance requirements of
the Building Code.

Information supplied courtesy of BRANZ

Window joinery

Are the windows and sliders the correct size and design on delivery?

Have they been fitted with sufficient waterproofing?

Check correct and effective flashing has been installed.

Gutters and downpipes

Do the gutters have the correct fall to ensure no pooling of water?

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Are the gutters installed correctly with overflow relief in case of blockage so heavy rain does not
flow into wall cavities?

Have you chosen a colour that complements the roof and external colour of the house, and has
that colour actually been installed?

Are the correct downpipes installed – colour, materials, profile (shape)?

Are the downpipes in the correct location so they don’t interfere with external gates or the lines of
your home?

For more information and cladding options:

 Further reading: Claddings Institute of NZ.

 Further reading: Weathertight and more information here on Leaky Homes.

For information on windows and options:

 Further reading: Master Joiners and the Window Association of NZ.

7. Behind the Wall

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Insulation

Have you got the correct R (heat retention) levels or better?

Has it been correctly installed as per manufacturers’ specifications?

Ensure there are no gaps - including corners in the joinery – these can reduce efficiency
by as much as 40%.

Discuss reducing thermal bridging in window framing with designer and builder.

Wiring and lighting

Do you have enough power points and in the right positions?

Are the power points and light switches installed evenly on the wall?

Are the transformers correct for the types of lights you have installed?

Are the lights selected correct for the specific job you want them for?

Are the light fittings in the correct position for the tasks you wish to undertake or the
ambience you want?
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Has the electrician created holes for the lights in the correct position?

During installation, has the electrician installed the correct lights in the right places in the
right way?

Phone and broadband wiring

For new homes or major renovations are you installing structured cabling in a ‘star’
configuration, with each outlet wired back to a home distributor box?

Do you have phone / broadband outlets in all areas? A double RJ45 outlet is
recommended for bedrooms and other normally occupied rooms, with multiple outlets
in the lounge, rumpus room and study.

Are you using Cat5e cable or better?

Is the computer cabling run separately to the electrical wiring?

Ultrafast Broadband is rolling out around the country - have you taken advantage of
supply in your area, and do you have the right technical set up at home?

 Further reading: Eco Design Advisor Service, Smarter Homes and Homestar.

 Further reading: Electrical Contractors Association of NZ.
 Further reading: Wiring for broadband.

8. Interiors
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Interior Lining

Have you checked with alternative wallboard suppliers to ensure you have the best product and
best price for your project? (You don't necessarily need to use the default product specified)

Is the wallboard handled and installed as per manufacturer’s instructions with no damaged panels
used?

Ensure framing is dry and straight. The use of thicker 13mm plasterboard with metal ceiling
battens helps provide a straighter ceiling.

Wall sheets should be fixed horizontally, as horizontal joints are less visible.

To reduce the visibility of any imperfections use light colours and flat paints or textured wallpaper
and avoid lighting that strikes a wall at a shallow angle.

Use light shades or recessed downlights and position windows away from the edges of walls and
ceilings or use shades.

Plastering of the joins is critical, especially in ceilings in open- plan living areas – a single large
ceiling is almost impossible to get completely flat but a poor job will be obvious and bug you for
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years.

Do you have the correct panels for specific rooms; e.g. waterproof in the bathroom, fire-rated in
the kitchen, sound- proof in the bedrooms?

Are they even and undamaged?

Ask what level of finish is being done? (see our Product Selection section here for more
information)

Interior and exterior painting

Ensure correct paints are used in areas like kitchens and bathrooms, doors and window frames.

Look for sloppy work and make sure it is cleaned up. Ensure angles are cut in to keep lines sharp.

Is the preparatory work of a sufficient standard – filling holes, touching up plaster sanding, use of
correct undercoats?

Are the paints being used the brands you specified or cheaper alternatives?

Have the painters got the correct colours as specified?

 Further reading: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industry NZ

 Further reading: Master Painters NZ

9. Kitchens
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Is the benchtop the correct size? If not, negotiate with your kitchen manufacturer to replace or
discount.

Are cupboards installed above the bench fitted properly to the ceiling and/or walls?

Are powerpoints installed at correct locations and with fittings that minimise intrusion onto
benchspace or tight spaces?

Ensure workmanship on joinery is an acceptable standard, with well-fitted joins and hardware.

10. Bathroom
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Don’t forget ventilation and heating, especially underfloor heating. The room must be able to be
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fully dry within 30 minutes.

Check that sufficient waterproofing is done.

Ensure all glass is of correct NZ standard.

Check tiles for chipping after laying and after other major items installed so damaged tiles can be
replaced.

 Further reading: National Kitchen & Bathroom Association.

11. Heating and Air-Conditioning

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Do you have sufficient heating units for your new home?

Have they been correctly installed as per manufacturers’ specifications?

Is the gas flued to reduce moisture build-up inside?

Have you considered the trade-off between purchase price and running cost?

For information on heating go here:

And for information on ventilation and air-conditioning click here:

 Further reading: Institute of Refrigeration, Heating & Air Conditioning Engineers.

12. Outdoor
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Fencing

Have you discussed the fence with your neighbour?

Has the correct grade of timber been used?

Are the vertical posts installed solidly and evenly?

Is the fence the correct height or do you need to get building consent?

Decks
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If solid deck attached at the wall, is the drainage sufficient?

Check where decks attach to walls to ensure the proper procedures are followed and
weathertightness is achieved.

Have attachments to walls been done properly?

Is the deck rated to hold sufficient people?

Rubbish removal

 There will be rubbish left behind by the tradespeople and sub-contractors. Specialist
companies can dispose of this in an environmentally sound manner.

Also see our Maintenance Checklist here…

Wrapping up
When work is completed you apply to the council for a Code Compliance Certificate (CCC).
If you don’t have one it may be hard to sell the house later. If you’ve done recent work and
have a Building Consent and had inspections as due, then it should be a formality.

If work was done some time ago, or a previous owner without consent then you can apply for
a Certificate of Acceptance (you may not necessarily get one, but all work should be on the
LIM and if not, then the council may require you to remove the building.) The council will
make a final inspection and issue you with a CCC if satisfied that the work complies with
your consent documentation.

If the council issues a “notice to fix”, you must make sure the work is fixed and advise the
council when it is. You may have to go back to your contract with your builder and see who
is responsible.

Then after a glass of champagne, your regular maintenance programme kicks in. Houses need
care and repair – repainting, washing, gutters cleaned…new consumer protection legislation
requires your builder to give you a maintenance programme for your house – have you got
yours?

What is Home Maintenance?

Most New Zealanders’ homes are their biggest investments, so it’s important to protect them.

Good maintenance will:

 help keep your home safe and secure

 keep you and your family healthy
  save you money by allowing you to fix problems before they get bigger
 protect your financial investment.

Many modern homes are described as ‘low maintenance’, but this does not mean ‘no
maintenance’. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free house.

NOTE:

Under new consumer protection legislation introduced at the beginning of 2015 your builder
is now required to give you a schedule of home maintenance, including all the ‘Producer
Statements’ and warranties of the products they have used in building your house.

If you do not maintain the products according to the manufacturers’ instructions, your
warranties may be void.

BRANZ have a FREE maintenance schedule for consumers and builders to use. This makes it
easy for your builder to meet their obligations under law and gives you the list of things you
need to take care of in one easy reference tool. If a new build Go Here… or if a renovation
Go Here…

Home maintenance includes everything from regular cleaning to repairs and replacements. It
can be a job as small as changing a washer to stop a tap dripping, or as large as repainting the
whole house.

What’s the best way to approach maintenance?

Whether you’re living in your home or renting it to tenants, there are four main approaches to
maintenance:

1. Carry out regular preventive maintenance, such as cleaning gutters, to prevent some
problems from occurring.
2. Carry out repairs as needed, preventing small problems from turning into big ones.
3. Plan ahead for major maintenance tasks, such as repainting or reroofing, so you have the
money and time available when the work is needed.
4. Be prepared for emergencies – know where and how the water, gas and power supplies turn
off, and if you have tenants make sure they know too.

DIY or Professional?

You may be able to do basic maintenance and repairs, like painting or replacing a broken
window, but you need to be realistic about your limits. It is better to hire a tradesperson and
get the job done properly the first time around than to make costly mistakes.

By law, some jobs need to be done by a professional, such as gas, plumbing, drainage and
some electrical work. From November 2010, certain building work will need to be supervised
or carried out by a licensed building practitioner.
If you’re doing your own maintenance work, make sure you take the necessary safety
precautions.

Major maintenance matters

Note: BRANZ have a FREE maintenance schedule for consumers and builders to use.
This makes it easy for your builder to meet their obligations under law and gives you
the list of things you need to take care of in one easy reference tool. If a new build Go
Here… or if a renovation Go Here…

Walls

It is particularly important to wash the cladding, and especially if your house is near the sea
and where wall areas are sheltered from regular rain washing. Use a soft brush and low-
pressure hose to wash the cladding – do not use a water blaster as they can damage claddings
and force water through gaps and joints.

If your home was built after the early 1990s and has any risk of being a leaky building, you
need to be especially vigilant in your maintenance checks. Carry out a careful inspection of
the cladding at least once a year. Modern homes with monolithic fibre-cement claddings were
once sold as ‘low maintenance’ homes, but most of these speciality exteriors need more
maintenance than a weatherboard house. Check with the cladding manufacturer, as you may
be required to wash the cladding at specific intervals to keep the warranty valid. Always
follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The main things to look for are:

 places where water can get into the framing

 signs that water has already got in.

Moisture

One of the main problems with New Zealand homes is the amount of moisture that collects
and stays around indoors. Damp homes are unhealthy and harder to heat.

You can combat persistent damp in your home by:

 insulating (under the floor, in the ceiling and walls)

 ventilating (including extractor fans in bathrooms and kitchens, open windows, using a
dehumidifier or forced ventilation system, keeping vents clear)
 heating (aim to keep the indoor temperature at a minimum of 16 degrees)
 replacing unflued gas heaters with electric or flued gas heaters.
You should treat the cause of excessive moisture at the same time as addressing its effects.
Excessive moisture can be caused by leaking pipes or condensation. It can also indicate that
your home is a leaky building, which could involve extensive repairs.

Mould, water stains and musty smells in houses that have been built or renovated since the
early 1990s can be the first signs of a leaky or non- weathertight house – they need to be
thoroughly investigated.

Owners who think their homes could have weathertightness problems because of their design
and construction methods should seek early expert advice.

Water might get in through holes, cracks, loose cladding, fixings (like aerials), joints that
have separated, around doors and windows, anywhere where the sealing has failed, and any
area where water can pool against the cladding. Look for signs that moisture might be
soaking up into the cladding, often indicated by darker colouration along the bottom edges of
the cladding.

Vulnerable areas to pay attention to:

 Check around the house to make sure the cladding is at least 175 mm above the lawn or
garden, or 100 mm above paved surfaces
 Check pergolas, cantilevered decks, poorly formed flashings (waterproofing strips) that do
not protect doors and windows, and meter boxes which are not sealed or flashed
 Check any areas where bolts, screws or handrails penetrate the cladding Brick houses

Balconies and decks

Common on apartments and many modern homes, enclosed decks and balconies require good
design and regular maintenance to ensure adequate drainage.

 They should be built with a slope to allow water to run off to a collection point such as a
downpipe.
 Drainage outlets must be kept clear of leaves and other items that might block them.
 Balconies enclosed with solid walls often suffer weathertightness problems and need to be
frequently checked for signs of rotting, swelling, cracks, and rust around bolts and flashings.
Note: BRANZ have a FREE maintenance schedule for consumers and builders to use.
This makes it easy for your builder to meet their obligations under law and gives you
the list of things you need to take care of in one easy reference tool. If a new build Go
Here… or if a renovation Go Here…

Roofs

Once a year you should check your roof cladding, chimneys and flashings (waterproofing
strips that protect vulnerable areas) to ensure problems are not developing.

Things to look for include:

 flashings that have corroded or lifted

 crumbling chimney mortar
 Overhanging branches can damage roofing materials, so it’s important to keep trees next to
your house well trimmed.
 Check with the manufacturer of your roofing material to find out about any special
maintenance requirements. Paint-on membranes, for example, must be regularly re-coated
every 7-10 years.

Drains and gutters

Blocked and damaged drains can cause serious flooding so it’s important to contact a
professional drain cleaner as soon as you become aware of any problems.

 Tree roots can cause clay (earthenware) drainage pipes to crack, so take care where you
plant trees with extensive root systems.
 Guttering and spouting need to be cleaned out at least once a year as leaves can easily
collect and block them.
 Most brick houses are brick veneer, with a cavity between the timber framing and the
brickwork.
 You need to keep the drainage cavities at the base of the walls clear – check regularly that
soil and plants are not blocking them.
 Never let insulation material fill the cavity behind the brick veneer as this will seriously alter
the weatherproofing performance of the cladding.
Concrete block houses

Most solid concrete block homes are constructed of reinforced masonry. They rely on the
externally applied waterproof coating for weathertightness and this must be maintained to
keep water out.

Basic Maintenance Checklist

Plan for regular preventive maintenance

Budget for major maintenance tasks like repainting

Carry out repairs promptly to avoid larger problems developing

Know how to turn your water, gas and power supplies off

Know your limitations – get qualified help when necessary

Know what jobs the law requires a professional to do

Get involved in your body corporate’s maintenance planning

Combat dampness by insulating, ventilating and heating your home

Check mould and water stains for possible weathertightness problems

 Plan for regular preventive maintenance

Understand the maintenance requirements of your home’s cladding

Check cladding regularly for signs of water getting in

Keep drainage outlets clear on enclosed decks and balconies

Check your roof annually

Clean guttering and spouting regularly

Take adequate safety precautions when doing maintenance work

Clean Heat Pump/Aircon Filters monthly, especially in high use periods

Fireplace cleaned before or after each season.

House including cladding and roof, cleaned every 2 years (check with your product maintenance
schedule to ensure regularity to meet warranty requirements)

Reprinted with permission – MBIE