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Seam Puckering and Its Types

This document discusses different types of seam puckering, including tension puckering, transport puckering, and displacement puckering. Tension puckering is caused by unwanted tension between fabric layers and thread tension. Transport puckering occurs when different forces are exerted on fabric layers during sewing. Displacement puckering results from fabric threads being pushed together and displaced at needle puncture sites. The document provides remedies for each type of puckering and lists factors that can cause seam puckering, such as fabric structure, thread type, and sewing machine settings. Examples of different puckering types are also shown.

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1K views9 pages

Seam Puckering and Its Types

This document discusses different types of seam puckering, including tension puckering, transport puckering, and displacement puckering. Tension puckering is caused by unwanted tension between fabric layers and thread tension. Transport puckering occurs when different forces are exerted on fabric layers during sewing. Displacement puckering results from fabric threads being pushed together and displaced at needle puncture sites. The document provides remedies for each type of puckering and lists factors that can cause seam puckering, such as fabric structure, thread type, and sewing machine settings. Examples of different puckering types are also shown.

Uploaded by

Prakriti
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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SEWN PRODUCTS

MACHINERY AND
EQUIPMENTS II
Assignment 1

SEAM PUCKERING
AND ITS TYPES
Submitted
By:
PRAKRITI
GORAI
(BFT/19/75)
Semester 4
What is Seam
Puckering?
The unwanted waviness of the fabric
along the seam line is called seam
pucker or seam puckering. This may be
apparent immediately after sewing.
Most of the time, sewing threads are
referred to as responsible for seam
puckering. But, without sewing
threads, there are so many reasons or
causes for occurring seam puckering
such as fabric structure, seam
structure, needle size, feeding
problem, uneven thread tension, and
so on. This can be seen after sewing
and sometimes after washing of
garments. There is a great possibility
of seeing seam puckering in case of
more plies of fabric sewing together.

Types of Seam Pucker

TRANSPORTATION PUCKER
DISPLACEMENT PUCKER
RELAXATION PUCKER
TENSION
PUCKERING
Tension puckering can be recognised by the fact that
it is symmetrical along both sides of the seam line
and present in all layers of the sewing material.
Often it occurs only after the sewing material has
been relaxed, which normally means a certain delay.
If you were to cut open the connections between the
stitches, they would disappear.

Cause
Tension puckering is caused by unwanted tension
between the sewing material and the seam.
Specifically, it is the result of excessive thread
tension and poor stretching ability in the sewing
material and sewing thread. The more flexible the
sewing thread is, the more it can stretch during the
sewing process, causing tension puckering when
returning to the seam. If the sewing material is
particularly fine and smooth, there is a higher risk
of tension puckering. In this case, the sewing thread
is often tight and pulls the sewing material together.

Remedies for tension puckering:


When using a double lockstitch, it is important to spool the lower
thread so that it is as free of tension as possible, and adjust the upper
thread tension to the lower thread tension. When using a double chain
stitch, the tension should be the same between the needle thread and
the hook thread. In general, however, the double chain stitch requires
less tension than the double lockstitch.
Together with the thread tension, the stitch density also has an impact
on the tendency towards tension puckering. The lower the number of
stitches, the higher the feeding-in rate of the sewing material after
the thread interlooping, resulting in a longer stitch. In the case of a
higher stitch density, this in turn means a comparatively small thread
reserve for the seam. Having little thread at the seam ultimately leads
to greater tension between the stitch connections than sewing with a
high stitch density. As such, having a high stitch density generally
helps to prevent tension puckering.
TRANSPORT
PUCKERING
Cause
Transport puckering is due to one-sided or different forces
exerted on the sewing material during transport. While the
lower layer of sewing material, for instance, may be moved
on by the feeder after the stitch has been made, the upper
layer is slowed by the presser foot. As such, it is not
extended the same length as the lower layer, resulting in
length variation and layer displacement. The higher the
presser foot pressure, the greater the effect. This is
particularly problematic for materials with a low sliding
ability, such as specially coated fabrics or imitation leather.
But even smooth fabrics can suffer from transport
puckering, as they tend to float beneath the presser foot.

Remedies for Transport puckering:


To ensure uniform sewing material transport, the presser foot
force must be optimally adjusted to the feeder. The presser foot
force must not be too high, while the toothing of the feeder
should protrude only slightly from the stitch plate during the
feed motion.
If the material cannot be sewn without causing transport puckering,
there are special presser feet that are adapted to the material, e.g.
with Teflon coating or adapted transport systems (e.g. needle, puller,
roll or gripper feed).
The sewing speed also has an important impact on an accurate feed.
The faster the sewing occurs, the shorter the distances between the
successive feed movements. This in turn changes the friction
behaviour between the individual sewing material layers and
between the upper layer and the presser foot. If sewing occurs too
fast, the feed between the upper and lower layers of material will not
be even. As such, it is better to sew more slowly, or to adjust the
sewing speed to the material.
DISPLACEMENT
PUCKERING
Cause
The penetration of the sewing machine needle and the
introduction of the sewing thread causes the fabric
threads to be pushed together in such a way and displaced
at the puncture site of the sewing needle, causing ripples.
This type of puckering is particularly common in densely
woven fabric. The higher the warp and weft density, the
greater the likelihood of displacement puckering. But the
fabric structure is key, along with the fabric density:
Linen-weave materials have a greater tendency to pucker
than twill- or satin-weave fabrics. This is due to the
location of the weave points. In addition, the seam
structure, type of stitch, stitch density and the choice of
sewing thread may all have an effect on the tendency
towards displacement puckering.

Remedies for Displacement Puckering:


If the seam does not run parallel to the thread system, this can help
to reduce displacement puckering.
Due to the location of the thread looping, the double chain stitch
requires less space on the sewing material than the double lockstitch.
If possible, it is better to use the double chain stitch.
As seams with a higher stitch density (> 4 stitches/cm) tend to
displace the fabric threads more than seams with a lower stitch
density due to the sense sequence of needle stitches and the
penetration of the sewing thread, it is best to opt for the lowest
possible stitch density.
It is also important to choose the optimal sewing thread. However,
the thicker the thread, the greater the displacement of the fabric
threads and the likelihood of displacement puckering. This can be
reduced by using thinner threads.
Factors responsible for
Seam Puckering:
Weave / Construction of fabric
Types of fabric
Types of sewing thread
Types of sewing machine
Tension of sewing thread
Stretch applied on fabric
Shrinkage of sewing thread and fabric
Feeding mechanism
Stitching condition
Sewing thread behavior
Thread tension of needle and bobbin

Examples of
puckering...

Tension
Puckering
Reason:
Incorrect sewing tension
Stretch applied on the fabric
Transportation
/feed
Puckering
Reason:
High friction between feed dog
and fabric (R1)
Low friction between upper and
lower fabric (R2)
High friction between upper
fabric and presser
Either of the three may be
responsible for this

Tension
Puckering
Reason:
Incorrect sewing tension
Stretch applied on the fabric
Tension on sewing thread
Displacement
Puckering
Reason:
Displacement of yarns near the
stitch hole resulted in tension,
which led to puckering.

Tension
Puckering
Reason:
Incorrect sewing tension
Stretch applied on the fabric
thank

you !

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