GLOSSARY OF TEXTILE TERMS
This entry was posted on September 13, 2010 by admin.
GLOSSARY OF TEXTILE TERMS
Ever wondered what mercerization or stentering means? Our glossary of textile terms acts as a dictionary of terminology
within the textiles industry. It is unnecessary to learn these definitions by heart but make sure you keep our guide
bookmarked so that you can easily refer to it when required.
Blend
A term applied to a yarn or fabric that is made up of more than one fibre or two different yarns are twisted or spun
together. In textile rental the most common blended yarns are cotton/polyester.
Carding
Carding removes dirt and matter and then separates the fibres and roughly lines them up so they all lie in the same
direction. This process eliminates any fibres too short to be spun into yarn.
Combed Cotton
This is an additional step beyond carding where fine brushes are used to pull out any remaining impurities.
Approximately 15% of the volume is removed leaving behind only long straight fibres. The texture of combed cotton is
softer because it lacks short fibres to stick out. Combed cotton is also stronger because weaker fibres have been removed.
As the combing process removes volume and adds a step in the process the resulting textile will be slightly more costly.
Cotton
A natural fibre that grows in the seed pod of a cotton plant. Fibres are usually ½" to 2" inches long. The longest staple
fibres longer than 1½" including Pima & Egyptian produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.
Damask
A patterned design produced on a jacquard loom.
Dobby Loom
Produces plain weave cloth or geometric, stripes etc.
Egyptian cotton
Egyptian grown cotton with extra long staple cotton produced in the Nile delta.
Greige
The term to describe an unfinished fabric – or loom state. Cotton is naturally a cream colour not white.
Gsm
Grams per square metre
Jacquard
Woven fabrics manufactured by using a jacquard attachment to a loom. This provides individual control of the warp
yarns to achieve more complex designs.
Loom
A machine used for weaving
Mercerization
This is used to describe a process of treating a thread, yarn or fabric to increase its lustre on the surface of the fabric and
its colour retention and durability. The fabric is immersed in sodium hydroxide and then neutralized in acid. This causes
the fibre to permanently swell and increases strength by up to 25%.
Pick or (weft)
A filling yarn that runs crossways between selvedges.
Pilling
A tangled ball of fibres that appear on the surface of a fabric as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing of the
surface of the cloth.
Percale
A closely woven fabric that's smooth, firm, midweight and fine. Usually made of cotton from a minimum of 180 threads
per square inch.
Polycotton
A blend of polyester and cotton
Polyester
A manufactured fibre derived from coal, air water and petroleum. Polyester fibres are formed from a chemical reaction
between acid and alcohol.
Resin
A synthetic chemical compound applied to a fabric to give non – iron / easy
care properties.
Satin Weave
A basic weave but the yarns are interlaced in such a manner that creates a smooth somewhat shiny surface is achieved.
Sanforizing
Is a process where the cloth goes through a machine with drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control
shrinkage of the fabric.
Shrinkage (Cotton)
Warp and weft usually shrink at different rates. An average cotton product will shrink 6 -8% after washing at high
temperature. Lower washing at 30/40ºC will cause less shrinkage
Singeing
A process to burn off protracting fibres from the body of the fabric, to give a smooth surface. Cotton is by nature a hairy
product.
Sizing
Warp yarns are coated with a sizing compound or starch mixture before weaving. The reason is to make the yarn
smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving. It can also increase fabric weight.
Stentering
A fabric is passed through a machine called a stenter to smooth out the fabric, because after bleaching the cloth gets
creased and wrinkled. This also controls the finished width of the fabric by tension.
Thread Count
The quality of bed linen is often conveyed by the thread count (TC)
It is calculated by counting the number of threads per square inch of the fabric in both directions. The number of threads
is the total of threads in the warp is added to the number of threads in the weft. (i.e. 110 x 90) = 200 TC
Warp (also known as the ends)
Warping is the processing of creating the base yarn that runs top to bottom on woven cloth
Weft (also known as picks)
The weft yarns are woven in from side to side.
Yarn Count
Yarns are usually graded using a number 16’s 18’s 20’s 24’s 30’s 40’s 60’s. The higher the number the finer the yarn.
Individual yarns can be twisted together. Two finer yarns twisted together in spinning are stronger than one thick yarn.
This is called ‘two fold yarns’.
INTERIOR DESIGN HISTORY TIMELINE:
Stone Age 6000 to 2000 BC
The first sign of an approach to interior design was noted in
prehistoric dwellings featuring flora and fauna. Those dwellings were
made of mud, animal skins, and sticks.
Neolithic Europe 2000 to 1700 BC
In comes the first defined handmade pottery that was used for both
practical and decorative reasons.
Ancient Egypt 2700
The rise of royal families saw for the first time people living in
structures besides mud huts. The new structures boasted murals that
portrayed their history and beliefs. And they had basic furnishings and
decorative objects like vases and sculptures – seen for the first time.
Greek Empire 1200 to 31 BC
Advancements in civilization and lifestyles saw citizens decorating
their homes in their own unique style for the first time ever with
wealthier Greeks possessing furnishings inlaid with ornate ivory and
silver details. Iconic and statement-making pillars and columns were
key motifs during this era and the Greeks also created standard rules
and procedures for building construction.
Roman Empire 753 BC to 480 AD
An austere age when royals weren’t able to evoke their wealth simply
through their homes. The Romans decorated their homes with murals
and mosaics, and furnishings featured clawed feet.
The Dark Ages 900 to 1500
The Dark Ages saw disinterest in interior design with people opting
for simple paneled wood walls, minimal furnishings, and stone slab
floors.
The Byzantine Empire 500 to 1500
During this period grande domes and decadent décor took center
stage.
The Renaissance Period 1400 to 1600
The beauty of interior design was a major feature during the
Renaissance period with grand furnishings and art realized in vibrant
hues and luxurious textiles like silk and velvet along with marble
surfaces. And since carpets were too precious and expensive for even
the wealthiest of patrons, they were used as wall art when possible.
Gothic 1140 to 1400
In response to the dark ages, decorative ornamentation and bold colors
were once again prominent interior design features. Two hallmarks of
the era carried over through to today are more windows for brighter
homes along with open floor plans.
Baroque 1590 to 1725
Ostentatious and ultra-rich artistic elements made for a recipe of
sumptuous interior designs featuring stained glass, twisted columns,
colored marble, painted ceilings, and gilt mirrors and oversized
chandeliers.
Traditional 1700 to Today
Embodied by a formal spirit, traditional interior design is still a
mainstay to this day. Traditional interior design is a broad term that
highlighting varied design styles and movement’s that aren’t nailed
down to one locked direction or spirit.
Traditional design celebrates the illustrious, rich history of the past by
contrasting it with decidedly modern elements for an elegant spin on
beautiful design while highlighting 18th and 19th-century European
decor. It’s a timeless design style that evokes easy glamor and comfort
and is a great direction for those who appreciate antiques, classic art,
symmetry, and design rich with history.
Rococo 1700
A hyper elegant and lavishly detailed design style taking cues from
botanical silhouettes, Rococo interior design featured unique elements
like tortoise shell and pearl embellishments alongside Asian porcelain.
The Industrial Revolution 1760 to 1820
Throughout the Industrial Revolution interior design was available for
a wider audience and was easier to access for the general population
than ever before. This is in large part due to easier printing processes
creating a wide distribution of fashion and lifestyle publications and
the fact that luxury items became increasingly attainable.
Neoclassical Style 1780 to 1880
Taking inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman cultures for
architectural details and motifs, this era saw furnishings rely heavily
on the use of bronze and gold metals, and soft furnishings featuring
silk, velvet, and satin. The trend of matching wallpaper and
furnishings also took hold.
Tropical 1880’s to Today
As the British empire swept through countries like India and territories
like the West Indies, they combined interior design elements from
their home country and the regions they were occupying to create a
heady mix of the traditional and the extoic.
Aesthetic Movement 1800’s to Today
With ‘art for art’s sake’ in mind, the Aesthetic Movement was a way
for radicals to express their dislike of current, tired interior design.
The key here was in practicality and function taking importance
before beauty.
Tuscan 1840’s to Today
Taking a cue from the charming and calming nature of Tuscany in
Italy, the focus of interior design during this period was of
straightforward simplicity with hints of luxury for good measure.
Arts & Crafts 1860 to 1910
In order to highlight their opposition to mass-produced ordinary items
due to the innovations of the Industrial Revolution, people turned to
traditional crafts and classic elements to produce furnishings.
Rustic 1870’s to Today
Rustic interior design features handmade furnishings and large, open
rooms boasting wooden beams and columns.
Rustic decor provides the perfect combination of comforting, fuss-free
design and practical, functional decor, put together to create a
warm rustic interior. Natural materials work as the foundation and
starting point for creating enviable rustic home decor celebrating the
authentic beauty of natural materials to create a cozy, beautiful space.
Modernism 1880 – 1940
The modernist movement stressed simplicity, clarity of form, and
rejected noise in design. Some of the movement’s leading figures in
include Mies van der Rohe, Le Corbusier, and Eero Saarinen, whose
signatures seen in his forever popular Saarinen table and Saarinen
chair are the epitome of the design style.
Art Nouveau 1890 to 1920
The enthusiasm behind the Art Nouveau movement was in bringing in
natural silhouettes derived by botanical elements that lent the era its
signature curved lines and organic shapes.
Colonial Revival 1905 to Today
Popular in the U.S and spurred by the centennial, the Colonial Revival
found inspiration from the Neoclassical and Georgian historical styles.
By far the most popular style of the time up til WWII, some believe
that the launch of the automobile helped to spark people’s interest in
historical references as they were able to freely visit documented
landmarks.
Eclectic 1900’s to Today
Some historians point to the rise of needing interior designers who
understood how to mix different design styles with authority for the
sharp increase of designers in the industry as eclectic style took over
aesthetic inspiration.
Eclectic style is all about harmony and the coming together of
disparate styles, juxtaposing textures, and contrasting colors to create
a cohesive, beautifully realized room that wouldn’t be out of place in a
home décor magazine as this is one design style that takes verve and a
great eye. And since eclectic interior design is all about
experimentation and play, do have fun with the freedom it allows.
Modern 1918 to 1950
With a focus on sparse interiors and bold primary colors, Modern
interior design eschewed the typically ornate and over decorated
design aesthetic trending at the time.
Bauhaus 1920 – 1934
Celebrated to this day for its grand yet minimal and beautifully
executed gestures, and founded by German architect Walter Bauhaus,
who also created the Bauhaus school of art and design in Weimar
Germany, the movement quickly produced some of the most
influential architects, sculptors, graphic designers, furniture makers,
and design mavericks of the mid to late 20th century.
Country 1920 to 1970
With notes lifted from traditional farmhouse settings, country style
was practical but with quality, vintage inspired furnishings.
Today’s take on the modern country style of interior design is an
idyllic classic. Stepping away from a purely traditional country design
style; modern country allows for more playful and nuanced aspects
along with minimal notes.
Art Deco 1920’s to 1960
This movement features an intoxicating blend of early 20th century
design styles including Constructivism, Cubism, Modernism,
Bauhaus, Art Nouveau, and Futurism. One of the most well-known
interior design styles, Art Deco represented modernity, everyday
glamor, and elegance. The era relied heavily on clean lines, fuss-free
angular shapes, bold color, and stylized patterns like zig-zags and
optical figures. For added glamor, ornate embellishments and metallic
surfaces were also hallmarks of the era.
Materials used in art deco interior design are slick and reflective for
everyday glamor in the home. Plenty of metallics are present in this
style; from gold to silver, stainless steel, and chrome. They lend any
room an elegant and luxurious feel, and they can be used everywhere.
Imagine a modern art deco living room with a glass topped gold
coffee table, chrome lamps, and a bold geometric patterned rug in
black, gold, and white. Glass is also a frequently used material in art
deco design; whether that’s through mirrors, glass-topped tables,
sculptural elements or an art deco vase or lamp, as glass adds to the
elegant feel of an art deco room.
Mediterranean 1920’s to Today
To evoke the feel of coastal European countries, textures from terra
cotta, stone, and patterned tiles were heavily featured along with
wrought iron, and aquatic hues.
Surrealism 1925 to 1930
Surrealists like famous artists included Salvador Dali, André Breton,
and Max Ernst used this avant-garde movement to free people from
their associations of what was normal and ultimately predictable in
design, music, art, and even interior design.
Mid-Century Modern 1930’s to Today
Though the term mid century modern wasn’t coined until the mid-
80’s, and though no one really knows it’s true timeline, the era
represents a combination of post World War II practicality, 50’s era
optimism, 60’s era earthiness, and 70’s era tones and textures neatly
wrapped up in a stylish ode to Scandinavian simplicity.
Call it a reaction to the decadence and gilt adorned stuffiness of
interior design and architecture through to the 40’s if you will, as at
the time of its inception, mid century modern decor was a complete
rebuttal and restart for the senses.
The vibe is fresh and poppy, retro-tinged, and completely alluring
with its dedication to comfort and practicality wrapped up in beautiful
design that never goes out of style. Unlike other aesthetic
movements, mid century modern decor is streamlined in design, as
form follows function while highlighting the materials used, rather
than making them something they aren’t.
Scandinavian Modern 1930’s to Today
This movement highlights the virtues of beautiful designed, practical
objects that are both easily affordable and accessible, which is why the
movement remains popular to this day.
Belonging to the school of modernism, Scandinavian interior design is
a design movement characterized by a focus on functionalism and
simplicity. It also includes the use of natural materials, such as leather,
wood, and hemp. Furthermore, a Scandinavian interior design is often
influenced by a connection to nature, which combines natural shapes,
abstraction, and the use of natural elements.
Transitional 1950’s to Today
With the invention of the television and its prominence throughout
most homes across the U.S, the interior design of sets helped feed the
masses appetite for décor more than ever.
Transitional style refers to a mix of traditional and modern
furnishings, fabrications, and decorative features that lend you more
freedom when looking to decorate your home with ease as there’s no
end to the directions you can take the design style. In
essence, transitional interior design is the combination of various
design styles brought together simultaneously to create a cohesive
design in one room.
Postmodernism 1978 – Today
This movement born as a challenge to what people saw to be the
generic blandness of the Modernist movement. One of its main figures
was Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, with his signature
playful shapes, abstract prints, and powerful color stories.
Contemporary 1980’s to Today
Contemporary interior design is classic yet thoroughly of the moment
and timeless thanks to a light-handed, spare take on decorating to
ensure it will never feel dated.
While modern decor can feel cold, limiting, and overtly
minimal, contemporary style is calming and serene, and is peppered
with a focus on architectural elements, decorative details, attention to
bold scales, and a concise color palette to create a warm space with
easy sophistication.
Simplicity, clean lines, plays on texture, and quiet drama are
fundamental in achieving a perfectly balanced contemporary style
home.
