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Planer Table: Shopmade

1) The document describes how to build a simple adjustable table to attach to a benchtop planer in order to help reduce or eliminate "snipe", which is a slightly deeper cut at the ends of boards when planing. 2) The table has support cleats that can be adjusted to slightly raise the ends of the tabletop, giving it a subtle bow. This helps reduce snipe by preventing the ends of boards from dipping too low. 3) The author provides instructions on assembling the table using common materials, and adjusting it to find the best elevation of the tabletop ends to minimize snipe for different thickness stock.

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Jim Lee
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
100 views2 pages

Planer Table: Shopmade

1) The document describes how to build a simple adjustable table to attach to a benchtop planer in order to help reduce or eliminate "snipe", which is a slightly deeper cut at the ends of boards when planing. 2) The table has support cleats that can be adjusted to slightly raise the ends of the tabletop, giving it a subtle bow. This helps reduce snipe by preventing the ends of boards from dipping too low. 3) The author provides instructions on assembling the table using common materials, and adjusting it to find the best elevation of the tabletop ends to minimize snipe for different thickness stock.

Uploaded by

Jim Lee
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Shopmade

Planer Table
Low-cost, adjustable table prevents snipe
Auxiliary tabletop,
Attach tabletop to cleats 1 ⁄ 2-in. MDF
with glue and finish nails.
Cut to fit across
bed of planer.

Top of planer
cabinet (or
benchtop)

Support cleat,
3⁄4 in. thick by

11 ⁄2 in. wide

B enchtop thickness planers are com-


pact workhorses that produce re-
markably smooth wood surfaces.
But, like any thickness planer, they often
create snipe—that’s the 2-in.-long (or so),
a length of 1⁄ 2-in.-thick medium-
density fiberboard (MDF) that serves as
the tabletop. The cleats attach to the top of
the planer cabinet with a few carriage bolts
and washers. The bolts allow me to elevate
slightly deeper cut at each end of a board. the ends of the tabletop slightly, giving it
Granted, some newer models have made a subtle bow. This slight rise at each end
good strides at reducing the problem, but is the secret to reducing snipe.
like the common cold, snipe defies eradi- I should mention that the adjustable table
cation. Indeed, it’s rare to find a thickness- reduces the thickness capacity of my planer
planed board that’s snipe-free. by 1⁄ 2 in., from 6 in. to 51⁄ 2 in. But since
However, adding an adjustable table to a 31⁄ 2 in. is about the thickest stock I’ve ever
benchtop thickness planer can help make planed, I don’t expect the reduced capacity
snipe a non-issue—if not by eliminating to be a problem. Also, you’ll need to re-
the problem, then at least by keeping it to move the folding infeed and outfeed table
a bare minimum. Snipe that measures less extensions that are attached to the saw.
than, say, 0.004 in. is rarely a problem. After cutting the tabletop to width and
This adjustable table has only a handful length, attach the support cleats to the un-
of parts. Four support cleats—two in front derside. First, though, drill both ends of
B Y A N D Y B E A S L E Y
of the planer, two behind—mount under each cleat to accept a carriage bolt. The

72 FINE WOODWORKING Photo: Tom Begnal; drawings: John Hartman


60 in.

⁄ in.
18

S U P POR T CLEAT
Tabletop

12 in. to 18 in.,
depending on
Adjust the two outside
manufacturer Shallow, square
support cleats until each
Carriage bolt, 1 ⁄4 in. mortise prevents
end of the table is elevated
about 1 ⁄8 in. bolt from turning.

Benchtop planer Support cleat


Flat washer

Top of cabinet Lock washer


Hex nut

Apply a few coats of


polyurethane to both
sides of the tabletop for
durability, smoothness,
and warp resistance.

Shopmade guide
rails, 1 ⁄8 in. thick
by 1 ⁄2 in. wide

bolt accepts a series


of flat washers, lock washers,
and hex nuts that attach the table to the that would
cabinet below. best minimize snipe.
Mount the two middle support cleats se- Adjusting the outside support cleats is
curely to form a stiff, flat table through the easy: After loosening the hex nuts adjacent elevation of the
planer. Two wood guide rails keep stock to the cabinet, simply tighten the upper tabletop ends. That’s be-
on course as it travels through the ma- nut to raise the bed, or tighten the bot- cause thicker stock can’t flex as much and
chine. Then, with a 6-ft.-long level placed tom nut to lower it. Because there are two will not conform to as much of a bow in
lengthwise on the bed, adjust the two out- bolts on each support cleat, both must be the table.
side support cleats until each end of the adjusted the same amount to avoid twist- Try a test piece before committing an
table is elevated about 1⁄ 8 in. above the ing the surface. expensive board to the planer. 
level of the table under the cutterheads. Once I determined the best table ele-
vation, I locked the support cleats in Andy Beasley retired a few years ago from the
Fine-tune for best results place for good. Keep in mind that if you Air Force, where he served as an instructor pilot
I ran test boards through the planer until I switch to stock that’s thicker than about in a variety of locations, including the Air Force
found the elevation of the tabletop ends 2 in., you might need to readjust the Academy. He lives in Hillside, Colo.

www.F i neWoodwor k i n g.com MARCH/APRIL 2006 73

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