1967

HOW TO
TROUBLESHOOT & ,. ,

REPAIR ANY SMALL

PAUL DEMPSEY
 HOW TO
TROUBLESHOOT &
REPAIR ANY SMALL

PAUL DEMPSEY

TAB TAB BOOKS Inc.

....___,. Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17214
FIRST EDITION

FIRST PRI NTING

Copyright © 1985 by TAB BOOKS Inc.

Printed in the United States of America

Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner, without express

permission of the publisher, is prohibited. No liability is assumed with respect to
the use of the information herein.

library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Dempsey, Paul
How to troubleshoot and repair any small gas engine.

Includes index .
1. Internal combustion engines, Spark ignition-
Maintenance and repair. I. Title .
TJ790.D44 1985 621.43 '4 85-14748
ISBN 0-8306-0967-9
ISBN 0-8306-1967-4 (pbk .)
 Contents
Introduction vii

1 Engine Basics 1
Nomenclature-Operation-Dimensions and Measure-
ments-Heat Lubrication-Maintenance

2 Ignition 23
Timing-Simple Alignment-Point Gap Adjustment-Point-
To-Cam Adjustment-Insufficient Output-Conventional
Systems-Solid-State Systems

3 Carburetors and Fuel Systems 67

Operation-Types- Adjustments-Filters-Governors-
Fuel Pumps-Mechanical Pumps

4 Rewind Starters 117

Side Pull-Service Procedures-Briggs & Stratton- Vertical
Pull

5 Electrical System 155

Starting Circuits-Charging Systems

6 Engine Mechanics 188

Diagnosis-Scope of Work-Cylinder Head-Valves-
Pistons and Rings-Cylinder Bores-Connecting Rods-
Assembly Crankshafts-Camshafts-Main Bearings-
Seals- Governor Mechanisms-Oiling Systems

Index 259
 Introduction
This book is written for the millions of owners of small engines
who want to be able to make their own repairs, and for mechanics
who are just getting into small-engine work. It combines some
engineering theory with detailed descriptions of repair procedures,
including troubleshooting and major engine work. Emphasis is on
four-cycle and two-cycle, American-made utility and indus trial
engines. Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Onan, T ecumseh and Clinton
receive special attention, but techniques described here apply to
most makes and models.
Major systems are discussed in detail; there are chapters on
ignition, carburetion, rewind starters, electrical systems, and engine
internals. In each case, some attention has been given to theory,
but one cannot repair a carburetor, a magneto, or a rewind starter
without understanding how it works. In retrospect, I think that
these short descriptions are the most important parts of this book.
Readers will remember this type of information and be able to ap-
ply it for years to come and on engines not yet built.
Most small-engine repairs are fairly simple and can be accom-
plished with no more than the usual collection of kitchen-drawer
tools supplimented by a 3/8-inch , square-drive socket set in U.S.
or metric s izes. Nevertheless, there are times when factory tools
are needed. These tools might not be readily obtainable. To simplify
matters, I have included part numbers and, whenever possible,
alternate sources of supply or instructions for home fabrication.

VI I
'
 Chapter 1

\ I

Engine Basics
This chapter covers elemental matters about the theory of engine
operation, and routine maintenance procedures. Because readers
might have little familiarity with the subject, I will begin with what
the Army used to call " naming of the parts."
Figure 1-1 illustrates major external parts of a typical four-
cycle, single-cylinder, side-valve, horizontal-crankshaft engine.
Most of the labeled parts, such as fuel tank, muffler, carburetor,
and air cleaner, are engine accessories, bolted to the basic package.
Each of these accessories, including some not highlighted in the
illustration, are described in various chapters of this book.
The engine proper consists of those parts inside the cavity
formed by the cylinder head and cylinder block, and that are not
visible until disassembly. Figure 1-2 shows the internal parts of a
four-cycle engine in exploded view. Note that the basic engine is
quite a simple affair; there are fewer than 20 parts and
subassemblies. These parts include:

• Cylinder head-caps the cylinder bore and mounts the spark

plug. Finned for cooling and almost always cast in aluminum.
• Piston- a moving plug that reciprocates in the cylinder bore.
Area between the top, or crown, of the piston and the inner face
of the cylinder head forms the combustion chamber where gasoline
and air are explosively combined to drive the piston.
• Piston rings-fitted on the piston to prevent gas leakage

1
I\)
..,.. FIL LER CAP (KEEP VENT OPEN)
~
II I I ' FUE L TANK (OPTION)
TOP MOUNTED
11.-- 1-1/2 GAL. SHOW N
.........-rr

FUEL
CYLINDER
HEAD - ~ -==-.: :,--=====-"1 SHUT-OFF
~ . = ~ ~ - VALVE
COOL ING
FINS
SHOULDER
TYPE
" J-
• v,
ORY TYPE
AIR CLEANER
DIPS TICK - • ~- }---"/
.

~
(,
I
NAMEPLATE
AIR
BREAKER IN TAKE
POINT COVER ·: ~ SCREEN

GASOLINE
CARBURETOR
9 1~
OIL ~-
ORA! N--~-- - ~ -"--I , . _~
L - . . - - - - - -_.J \
~ BLOWER
HOUS ING
PAN STOP BUTTON
FUEL PUMP OR COVER

Fig. 1-1. External views of a Kohler single-cylinder engine, with major accessories labeled .
 FLANGE HOlD-DOWN BOLTS

Fig. 1-2. Internals of a four-cycle, single-cylinder, vertical crankshaft engine

of the type that is used to power rotary lawnmowers.

from the combustion chamber into the crankcase.

• Piston pin-ties the piston to the connecting rod; also known
as the wrist pin.
• Connecting rod-connects the piston and the explosive force
generated against the piston crown to the cranks haft. Usually
aluminum, although two-cycle engines sometimes employ a forged
steel connecting rod .
• Crankshaft-acts in concert with the connected rod to con-
vert reciprocating piston movement into rotary motion suitable for
turning wheels or driving other machines. Often cast iron,
sometimes cast or forged steel.
• Main bearings-two on a single cylinder engine to support
the crankshaft at both ends. May be in the form of sleeve, or plain ,
bearings or antifriction (ball, roller needle) bearings.
• Cylinder block-maj or casting, includes cylinder bore and
crankcase cavity. This cavity holds the oil supply for four-cycle
engines and fo rms part of the two-cycle induction tract , channel-

3
ing air, fuel, and oil from the carburetor into the combustion
chamber. Either aluminum or cast iron.
• Flange-secondary casting that closes off one side of the
crankcase cavity. Depending upon configuration, may be known
as side cover or oil pan.
• Valves-salient characteristic of four-cycle engines, usually
mounted in cylinder block (as shown) in which case the engine is
described as a side-valve or L-head design. Overhead valve (ohv)
with valves mounted in head, above piston crown, are also
manufactured.

-Intake valve: opens to admit air-fuel mixture from carburetor

to combustion chamber.
-Exhaust valve: opens to permit egress of exhaust gases from
combustion chamber to atmosphere.

• Camshaft-acts through tappets, or valve lifters, to cam the

valves open at appropriate places in the operating cycle. Driven
at half engine speed by the crankshaft. Valves are closed by springs.
• Oil pump-fitted on many four-cycle engines to transfer oil
under pressure to the bearings.

Figure 1-3 shows a typical two-cycle block assembly for com-

parison with the four-cycle in Fig. 1-2. Note the absence of many
parts, including intake and exhaust valves, camshaft and oil pump.
Valve functions are accomplished by the piston that opens and
closes ports in the cylinder bore. Many two-cycle engines, including
the one illustrated, also employ a reed, or leaf, valve between the
carburetor and crankcase. Two-cycle lubrication is by means of
small quantities of oil mixed with the fuel.
Another difference between the block assemblies shown is that
the four-cycle unit employs a vertical crankshaft, mounted "north-
south " in the block. This configuration is used in applications such
as rotary lawnmowers, where the driven member is below the block
assembly. The Clinton two-cycle uses a horizontal crankshaft,
typical of most industrial engines. Other than a change in
carburetor-fuel tank position and some modification to four-cycle
crankcases for oil storage, there is no significant mechanical dif-
ference between crankshaft configurations.

OPERATION
Internal combustion engines operate in a cycle of four events

4
 <:::>
~ P I S T O N RINGS
/ PISTON
I

\,CIRCLIP

'I• CONN ROD

MAIN BEARING
THRUST MAIN
CRANKSHAFT
SEAL (PTO ENO) BEARING BEAR ING
~

-@~c::n;t
REED ~ .. f ~-~ .,.~
\ : · :~
• I~
,
i:- _ _ __
r
JI a
SIDE COVER GASKET
CRANKCASE SEAL
(MAGNETO ENO)

CYLINDER BLOCK
REED VALVE ASSY.

Fig. 1-3. Two-cycle internals are simpler than the four-cycle variety and can , if you want to quibble a bit , be reduced to three moving parts-
u, piston, connecting rod and crankshaft . Clinton engine shown .
that take place in the area above the piston. These events are in-
take of fuel and air, compression of the charge, ignition and subse-
quent expansion and exhaust of spent gases. Four-cycle engines
require four upward or downward strokes of the piston to complete
the full cycle. Two-cycle engines compress events into two strokes
of the piston, or one cranks haft revolution.

Four Cycle
Figure 1-4 shows the sequence of piston and valve movement
during the four events. The piston moves downward during the in-
take stroke, evacuating the cylinder above it. Air and fuel enter
around the open intake valve to fill this void. The exhaust valve
is closed. At the lower limit of piston travel, called bottom dead
center (bdc), the intake valve closes and the piston begins to move
upward in the compression stroke. The piston rounds top dead cen-
ter , the spark plug fires, and the piston descends on the power (ex-

0 Q
INTAKE STROKE ro.tWESSI~ STROKf.

e e
EXHAUST STROKE
POWER. STROKE

Fig. 1-4. Conventional piston engines operate in a cycle, or sequence , of four

events-intake, compression, power and exhaust. In a four-stroke-cycle engine,
this sequence requires two complete crankshaft rotations or four piston strokes.

6
pansion) stroke. Both valves remain closed to contain the force of
the explosion. Past tdc again , the piston moves upward , forcing
the spent gases out through the open exhaust valve. The intake
valve will remain closed until the piston reaches tdc of the exhaust
stroke and a new cycle begins.
So much for theory. In practice, events are not so neatly ap-
portioned, one event to each piston stroke. Gases have interia (that
is, they resist acceleration) and, once set in motion, are reluctant
to stop moving. Both valves open early-well before their respec-
tive strokes-and remain closed late. Ignition occurs early, some
10 to 15 crankshaft degrees before top dead center, so that full com-
bustion pressure has time to develop before the piston retreats on
the downstroke.
Theory and practice do conform at one place in the cycle. At
top dead center on the compression stroke, both valves are closed,
although a fraction of a degree of crank movement in either direc-
tion will crack one or the other valve. This bit of information is
useful when " blind timing" an engine, as explained in Chapter 6.

Two Cycle
The central element of a two-cycle engine is the piston, which
functions as a double-acting compressor and, in conjunction with
ports in the cylinder bore, as a shuttle valve. The mixture is com-
pressed both in the combustion chamber above the piston, and in
the crankcase below it. Piston movement uncovers one or more
transfer ports, connecting the crankcase with the cylinder bore, and,
somewhat later in the cycle, exhaust ports to vent the spent gases
to the atmosphere. In addition, some engines use the piston to open
the intake port from the carburetor to the crankcase.
If all this seems a bit complicated, Fig. 1-5 will help to clarify
matters. Keep your eye on the pea. The engine shown is typical
of most industrial and light-utility types in that it uses a deflector
piston and a reed, or leaf, valve.
In Fig. 1-5 (top) the piston is descending on the down stroke.
Exhaust gases from the previous combustion are flowing over the
piston crown through the exhaust port on the left of the drawing.
At the same time, the port labeled "intake" (most mechanics would
call it a transfer port) is open, connecting the area above the pis-
ton with the crankcase. The crankcase and the air-fuel-oil mixture
in it are subject to s light pressurization as the piston falls and fills
the block cavity. This pressure-on the order of 7 psi- is sufficient

7
 -

FUEL -AIR
MIXTURE
LEAF VALVE
(OPEN)

EXPLODING
FUEL-AIR
:.- - S PARK PLUG
M IXTURE

~~

LEAF VALVE
(CLOSED)

Fig. 1-5. Two-stroke-cycle engines also operate in terms of the four cardinal
events (intake, compression, power, and exhaust) , but action is speeded up
to take place in a single crankshaft revolution or two piston strokes. (Courtesy
OMC).

to force the fuel charge through the open " intake" port and into
the cylinder bore.
In Fig. 1-5 (bottom) the piston has progressed past bdc and its
upward movement compresses the mixture in the cylinder bore.
Both " intake" and exhaust ports are closed. The same piston move-
ment that pressurizes the bore depressurizes the crankcase. This
partial vacuum causes the reed valve to open, admitting a fresh

8
air-fuel charge to the crankcase. As the piston approaches tdc, the
spark plug fires, igniting the mixture. The piston is driven
downward to uncover the exhaust port and then the transfer port.
The piston shown in this example has a peaked crown , acting
as a miniature "Continental Divide," to separate the gas streams.
The intake charge passes through the transfer port, strikes the steep
side of the piston deflector, and rebounds upward-driving the ex-
haust gases out before it. This system, known as a cross-flow
scavenging, is relatively inexpensive to manufacture and is used
in many small engines. Its chief disadvantages are poor scaveng-
ing (i.e., much of the exhaust remains in the cylinder, especially
at low rpm). loss of fuel through the exhaust, and excessive piston
weight.
Loop scavenging was developed some years ago in Germany
and has since appeared in a number of industrial engines (Fig. 1-6).
This system employs intake ports arranged radially around much
of the bore diameter and angled upward to direct the incoming
charge at the roof of the combustion chamber. The air-fuel streams
rebound off the roof, meet and combine in a miniature tornado to

INTAKE
IN TAKE PORT
PORT

~
;:
0 ~~

FUEL
FLOW

Fig . 1-6. A loop-scavenged engine uses angled intake (or, perhaps more cor-
rectly, transfer) ports imparts a swirl to the intake charge that scrubs exha1,Jst
gases from the chamber. (Courtesy OMC).

9
sweep the cylinder clean of exhaust products. The whirling mass
of air and fuel particles has kinetic integrity and very little of it
bleeds out the exhaust port.
Loop scavenging requires extremely precise foundry work,
because s light errors in port location or entry angle will destroy
the effect. This mig ht help expla in why some seemingly identical
two-cycle engines run more smoothly and more powerfully than
others.
Another area that has caught the attention of designers is the
valve between the crankcase and carburetor. The reed valve il-
lustrated functions automatically in r esponse to the pressure dif-
ferential between the crankcase and carburetor. It may improve
low speed torque output because there is no possibility of charge
reversal. Some small European engines use a third port, located
at the base of the cylinder bore and in communication with the
crankcase. The piston uncovers this port near the top of the stroke
and closes it on the downstroke (before the transfer port opens).
This system is simple and absolutely reliable; however, part of the
crankcase charge squirts back into the carburetor as the valve
closes. This can cause a ragged idle and give rise to a fog of fue l
and oil at the carburetor intake.
Several imported motorcycle engines and Tecumseh water-
cooled outboards employ one or another form of rotary valve. The
valve is keyed to the crankshaft and has part of its face outaway.
As the piston approaches tdc, the cutaway aligns with the intake
port to admit a fresh charge into the crankcase.

DIMENSIONS AND MEASUREMENTS

The bore , or the diameter of the cylinder, and the stroke, or
the distance the piston travels between dead centers, are the basic
engine dimensions. T ogether , bore and stroke give the displace-
ment, or swept volume of the engine. The formula is

d 2 x Bsn x 3.14
Displacement -
4

d = diameter of bore
s = length of s troke
n = number of cylinders

10
The Kohler two-cylinder model K582 has a 3.50-inch bore and a
3.00-inch stroke. Plugging these values into the equation:

3.50 X 3.50 X 8 X 3 X 2 X 3.14

Displacement -
4

- 57.7 cubic inch

Because bore and stroke dimensions were given in inches,

displacement is expressed in cubic inches. If the engine were dimen-
sioned metrically, displacement would be in cubic centimeters (cc).
Multiplying the cc value by 0.061 gives displacement in cubic in-
ches. T o work the conversion the other way, multiply cu in. by
16.39.

Compression Ratio
Compression ratio (er) is the ratio between the volume of the
cylinder at bottom dead center compared with the volume remain-
ing above the piston at top dead center. Within limits set by the
threshold of detonation and the requirement for reasonable trac-
tability, the higher the er, the more power the engine develops.
Detonation occurs in most side-valve engines when compres-
sion ratio is raised beyond 7.5 or 81 to 1. Because of a more favorable
combustion chamber shape, some overhead valve engines tolerate
a higher er, but rarely more than 8.5 to 1 with modern, low-octane
gasoline. The phenomenon is quite complex, but basically detona-
tion consists of an abrupt rise in combustion pressure after normal
ignition has commenced. During combustion, the flame front moves
outward from the electrode gap at the spark plug, progressively
igniting the air-fuel mixture. Detonation occurs when part of the
mixture, compressed and heated by the expanding flame front,
spontaneously ignites, generating terrific force that vibrates the con-
necting rod like a tuning fork to produce an audible ping. Severe
detonation will puncture a piston in a few minutes a nd moderate ,
transitory detonation will shorten engine life.
In addition to keeping the compression ratio conservative, there
are various techniques to keep detonation in check. One way is to
increase the speed of flame propagation so that normal combus-
tion can occur before the tag ends of the mixture absorb enough

11
 COMBUSTI O N
CHAM BER

PISTON

~-<;=;:z::::z:::::i...___ SOU IS H
AREA

TN7 - 1003

Fig . 1-7. Squish area increases mixture turbulence and allows some increase
in compression ratio. (Courtesy Onan) .

heat to explode on their own. This can be done by increasing the

turbulence of the air-fuel mixture with a squish area above the pis-
ton (Fig. 1-7). As the piston approaches top dead center, that part
of the mixture above it is compressed and "squishes" into the larger
chamber.
From a mechanic 's point of view, detonation can be controlled
by avoiding lean mixtures (which burn s lowly), impressing on
operators that the engine should not be lugged (wide-open throttle
at low rpm reduces turbulence) and by doing everything possible
to keep temperatures within design limits. Cooling fins should be
periodically cleaned, ignition timing should be checked and carbon
buildup in the combustion chamber should be removed during
tuneups. Two-cycle fuel should be mixed exactly as the manufac-
turer recommends. Whatever an extra dollop of oil might do to pro-
long cylinder bore life, it also reduces the fuel's octane rating and
increases the likelihood of detonation.
Engine modifications should be approached cautiously. In-
dustrial utility engines tolerate a few thousandths skimmed off the
cylinder head to re-establis h the gasket seal, but serious milling
to raise the compression ratio is not acceptable.

12
Performance Data
Horsepower is a term with a certain ambiguity attached to it.
The concept con1bines two distinct quantities: 1 hp is the ability
to lift 550 pounds. 1 foot in 1 second, or 33,000 pounds, 1 fo ot in
1 minute. Notions of work-which in the technical sense means to
exert force through distance-and time are combined to produce
a measure of the rate at which work is accomplished.
There are several varieties of horsepower. Taxable hp is a legal
term, created during the early days of automobiles to provide
authorities with a yardstick for taxation. Thus, the 2CV Renault,
a mini-car favored by a segment of the French population, develops
two taxable hp (chevaux vapor). Output by the n1ore common defini-
tion is 18 or so horsepower.
Indicated hp (ihp) is an engineering term, arrived at by calcula-
tion and meaning the power produced across the piston face. It does
not include frictional and other parasitic losses .
The most common measure-and the one usually quoted in fac-
tory literature-is brake horsepower (bhp) , determined by measur-
ing crankshaft output on an engine brake, or dynamometer. But
few things are a simple as they first appear, and a dynamometer
test is no exception. External variables, such as ambient air
pressure, temperature, and humidity affect engine power-as does
accessory load. Most U.S. manufacturers conform to Society of
Automotive Engineers (SAE) standard ]607 , which calls for a sea-
level test at 60 ° F with standard accessories in place. Procedures
minimize the possibility of dyno "loading" and high flash readings.
European manufacturers test under DIN standards, which are more
conservative than SAE. Power outputs can be adjusted to the
American practice by multiplying the European PS (pferd stark)
rating by 0.986.
Engines, especially those that are sold internationally,
sometimes carry a wattage rating, which is the electrical equivalent
of bhp. One bhp equals 745.7 watts or 0.7457 kilowatts (Kw).
Most industrial plants are warranted to develop at least 85%
of full rated bhp upon shipment and 95% of rating after run-in. Car-
buretor and timing adjustments might be needed to achieve these
figures and loads developed by nonstandard accessories must be
deducted. In addition, power output decreases about 3.5% for each
1000 feet of altitude above sea level and 1 % fo r each 10 ° F rise
in temperature above 60 ° F.
Torque is related to horsepower, but is a distinct concept. It
is a measure of instantaneous twisting force on the cranks haft,

13
which in this country is usually expressed as pounds of force ex-
erted on the end of a lever 1 foot long. A 33,000-pound force on
a 1-foot lever for 1 minute equals 1 horsepower:

6.38 x torque x rpm torque x rpm

horsepower -
33,000 5,252

From a theoretical point of view, torque is a function of cylin-

der displacement and brake mean effective pressure (bmep}. The
latter is the average combustion pressure during the power stroke.

bmep (psi) x displacement (cu. in.)

torque -
150

Horsepower is the index of an engine's ability to pull a load

through time. In motor vehicles this means miles per hour, in
pumps, gallons per minute, and in generators kilowatt-hours.
Torque, on the other hand, translates as tenacity, as the ability to
keep slogging as sudden loads shift the rpm curve into the high
torque area.
Bmep acting on piston area produces torque. Bmep depends
upon compression ratio and volumetric efficiency, or the mass of
air-fuel mixture in the cylinder (Fig. 1-8). Most engines develop
best volumetric efficiency and , consequently, peak torque at low
to moderate speeds.
Torque appears in the horsepower equation as the force com-
ponent; rpm is the time component. Horsepower curves start small
because there is little rpm and torque has not yet peaked.
Horsepower builds with speed and continues to rise, riding on rpm ,
after torque has reached its maximum value. But rpri1 can only carry
it so far because internal friction increases with rpm, following a
rough approximation of the square law. At some point near full-
governed speed, horsepower peaks and begins to decline.
Everyone wants higher performance, and especially if it can
be extracted without a weight or engine size penalty. But there are
other tradeoffs as exhibited by torque, horsepower and fuel con-
sumption curves for Kohler 241 and K341 engines (Fig. 1-9). The
K241 is a conservatively rated workhorse with a 3.25-inch bore and

14
 Actual Mass Of Air
In Cylinder
Volumetric Effic iency -
Mass Of Air To
Com ple te ly Fill Cy linder

Combustion Chamber Combus tion C hamber

2 3 Fu ll Of Air Comple te ly Full

Vol um etric 2/ 3 Fu ll
= = .66 o r 66%
Efficiency Full

Fig. 1-8. Volumetric efficiency is the index of how well the cylinder fills during
the intake stroke. Complete filling, that is, with the charge pressurized at 1
atmosphere, equals 100 percent volumetric efficiency. (Courtesy Onan).

2.88-inch stroke for a displacement of 23.85 cubic inches. Compres-

sion ratio is a moderate 6.2 to 1. The K341 is the performance ver-
sion of the same engine, bored to 3. 75 in. and strokes to 3.25 in.
The engine has a 35.90 cubic inch displacement and a compres-
s ion er of 7 .3 to 1, which stands near the upper limit for a side-
valve industrial engine. However it does perform, developing 16
bhp and slightly more than 38 foot pounds of torque. The K241
produces only 10 hp and 21.5 foot pounds.
As you might expect in a free-lunchless world, the larger, more
powerful engine burns more fuel. But the shape of the torque curve
tells a more revealing story. The K341 uses bigger valves than the
K241 , raises them further off their seats, and keeps them open
longer. These changes improve volumetric efficiency and torque
production , but at some cos t in flexibility. Torque peaks at 2600
rpm-300 rpm more than K241 peak-and falls sharply as speed
increases. In contrast , the K4 K241 curve remains essentially flat
through the rpm range, dropping by less than 3 footpound at 3600

15
 39
- - . - - 29

----
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37 >- . -~
TORQUE K 3d 1 •--- ..... ,.. - . .
27
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-
10

6 - ~?
k(' - y'o -
8

- - -~;> ~q.

' I- -v-J- -- ~i-

J- _- .._- - . - - .
- - '
/
)

I 800 2000 2200 2• 00

·- REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE

2600 28-00 3000 J200

- 3400 3600
-
~

55

--- ---t-- - ~ -- ~ --:t_

7 7 -·+ - f -- -
-
FUEL CONSUM PT ION , 10

a:
6 --- - AT FULL LOAD - K341 ~
I

K32 1 - I 50 a:
I 5 --- - - - ' - _+_ - , -_ '
- I
, 30 a:
a:
w
G. 4
-- - ...__ -- ~ +
KJO I
1 10 G.
w
FUEL
"'a:w K2• 1 -
90 0_,
"'z DATA
...
::;
3 --- ~

' ..J

- ' 10 <
2 - .J _ - - ... _- -- ---· 50 "
REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE
1800 2000 2200 2.00 2600 2800 3000 3200 JAOO 3600

Fig. 1-9. Performance data for three Kohler single-cylinder engines.

16
rpm . As industrial engines go, the K341 is a "peaky" engine,
developing good, but rpm-sens itive torque.

HEAT
Large quant1t1es of heat are developed in the combustion
chamber where normal operating temperatures can reach 2000 °
F. Unfortunately, only about a third of this heat is available for
useful work at the crankshaft; about a third goes out the exhaust
and , another third heats the engine, either from exposure to com-
bustion gases or through friction between moving parts.
Because pure aluminum melts at about 1400 ° F and the
lubricating properties of motor oil become problematic at about
400 ° F , the engine needs to be cooled in some way. The irony is
that, by cooling, a thermal gradient is set up between the combus-
tion chamber and the surrounding metal which invites more heat
to be rejected during the next combustion event. Hence, the in-
terest in high-melting-point, ceramic-engine parts and dry
lubricants .
Contemporary small engines use three mechanisms to main-
tain internal temperatures at tolerable levels. The primary mecha-
nis m is a flywheel-mounted fan that blows or, more rarely , pulls
cooling air over the cylinder head and cylinder barrel. Four-cycles ,
depend heavily on the lube oil in the sump to cool the underside
of the piston and lower end bearings; two-cycles use the incoming
air-fuel-oil mixture to the same effect. An excessively gasoline-rich
air-fuel mixture can also be used to quench combustion chamber
temperatures at high speed or under heavy load.
Air-cooling virtues include utter simplicity, rapid engine warm-
up, and virtual freedom from routine n1aintenance. But the freedom
is not absolute and the mechanic should periodically dismantle the
s hrouding and clean the fins. The hub screen, fitted to most fly-
wheel fans, might also require attention. In addition, everything
possible s hould be done to control combustion chamber
temperatures. The combustion chamber should be routinely decar-
bonized, timing should be advanced no more than the manufacturer
specifies, and a slightly rich carburetor power setting never hurts.
Of course, all shrouding-including the insignificant-appearing
square of tin that covers the downstream cylinder barrel on most
engines-must be in place before the unit is started.

LUBRICATION
Motor oil has multiple functions. It reduces friction by inter-

17
posing a fluid film, that can be no more than a few molecules thick,
between moving parts. Heavier films, measuring in the thousandths
of an inch, help to cushion forces acting on the crankshaft bear-
ings and adhere to the cylinder walls, forming a gas-resistant seal
with the piston. Local hot spots are quenched with oil that dissipates
the heat load into the relatively cool crankcase. It is said that some
engines depend upon oil to transfer as much as 40% of the total
thermal load. Another function of oil is to disperse solids that will
then be trapped in a filter. Oil also contains additives that resist
ash fo rmation (particularily important in two cycles where most of
the oil is burnt in combustion), corrosion, and foaming.
Ignition problems cause most complaints, but the real engine
killer is dirty oil. Two cycles have an advantage in this regard: the
oil supply and lubricating film will be skimpy, but it is at least clean.
Four-cycle engines recirculate their oil from a constantly
diminishing sump. It is up to the operator to change the oil at recom-
mended intervals (usually 25 operating hours or 50 hours if the
engine has an oil filter) and to more or less continually check the
oil level. Once the level drops, the remaining oil overheats and car-
burizes into an abrasive slurry.
Use the type and grade of motor oil recommended by the
manufacturer for the engine in question. Synthetic and
multiviscosity oils are usually not acceptable, with some
manufacturers going out of their way to warn against l0W-40. Two-
cycles generally require 30-weight oil, mixed in a separate container
(to assure complete dispersal of the lubricant in the fuel) to exact
proportion indicated on the engine instruction plate. Straight-
viscosity 30-weight is the almost universal recommendation for four-
cycles operated in above-freezing weather. Some manufacturers
reluctantly allow a thinner, multiweight oil in lower temperatures,
but others insist upon such hard-to-obtain grades as 5 weight. API
classification SF, the highest grade currently available, is preferred.
Don't combine cheaper oils with longer-than-recommended change
intervals.
Engine assembly work is crucial from a lubrication point of
view. Parts should be antiseptically clean and assembled sopping
wet with 30-weight motor oil. Additives are not recommended ei-
ther by the factories or by most mechanics. In spite of claims to
the contrary, " Miracle-in-a-can" products do not exist.
Lubrication systems that distribute and collect oil in four-cycle
engines take three patterns. T he simplest is the splash system that
flings about the crankcase by means of a scoop or rotating slinger.

18
 O IL PR ESSURE CAM SH AFT
C AM SHAF T BEARING
RELIEF VALVE
BEARING

MA IN
BEARIN G CONN ECT IN G ROD MAIN
BEARI NGS oe::::::: : i ,.') C BEARING

CONNECTING
ROD BEARING
O IL LEVEL
OIL PUMP
OIL
\.....__ _ _ _ _ _~ OI L SCOOP
STRAI NE R

SPLASH LUBRICATION FULL PRESSURE LUBRICATION

....
CD
Fig. 1-10. Splash lubrication is simple, but limited in applications; full-pressure lubrication is generally preferred and allows option of a filter
and oil pressure gauge. (Courtesy Onan).
Full-pressure systems employ a pump to provide positive lubrica-
tion to every journal bearing, while semi-pressure systems use a
pump to supply remote areas and splash for the rest. In all cases,
oil returns to the sump by gravity. See Fig. 1-10.

MAINTENANCE
Small, air-cooled engines are anachronistic devices , making
about the same demands on their owners as automobiles did 50
years ago. Engine life, meas ured as operating hours between
overhauls, is relatively short. Several years ago, a U.S. manufac-
turer of inexpensive two-cycle engines suggested that 500 hours
was a reasonable figure. Engines ran that long in the lab. A
maintenance schedule publis hed by a well-known industrial engine
maker indicates that after 1000 hours all bets are off.

Table 1-10. Maintenance Schedule .

Operating hours Service

4 Check and top ott crankcase oil level

8 Service air cleaner (Chapter 3)

25 Change oil (engines without oil filters)

50 Change oil and filter

Clean and regap spark plug (Chapter 2)
Check battery electrolyte level (Chapter 5)
Clean battery terminals (Chapter 5)
Replace paper filter element (Chapter 3)
Torque mounting bolts
Lubricate controls and control cables

100 Tune-Up time:

Clean cylinder head and cylinder barrel fins ,
removing shrouding for access
Service ignition (Chapter 2)
Rebuild carburetor (Chapter 3)
Adjust governor and control linkages (Chapter 3)
Clean two-cycle exhaust ports (Chapter 6)

200 Clean crankcase breather (Chapter 6)

Decarbonize combustion chamber (Chapter 6)
Inspect valve seats and valve lash (Chapter 6)

1000 Disassemble for overhaul or rebuild

20
 To put these numbers into context, the heavy equipment in-
dustry generally considers one hour of stationary operation to be
the equivalent of 20 miles in a motor vehicle. There are documented
cases of oil field pumping units-single-cylinder, gas-fired, air-
cooled engines-operating continuously for 40 years with only mi-
nor maintenance. Mercedes-Benz industrial diesels, somewhat
detuned and running at about half rated speed, typically clock 5000
hours without more than an injector change.
Even though schedule maintenance cannot extend design life,
it can delay the inevitable and help eliminate surprises during the
interim. Most important are four-cycle lubrication systems and air
filters fo r both engine types. Oil levels should be topped off daily
and changed at recommended intervals or more often under adverse
operating conditions. Air filters should be cleaned and re-oiled at
least once every duty day . Air filter gaskets should be replaced at
the fi rst sign of wear and possible leakage. Polyurethane filters re-
quire special attention. Before each startup, the filter element
should be removed fro m its housing and gently knealed to
redistributed oil throughout the foam. Paper filter elements should
be replaced at 50-hour intervals, and more freque ntly in dusty en-
vironments.
A good maintenance schedule includes the cumulative items
shown in Table 1-1. Repeat the 25-hour service at 50 hours, the
50-hour service at 100 hours, and so on.

21
 Chapter 2

Ignition
Ignition system difficulties are of two kinds: Improper timi ng, and
Insufficient spark.

TIMING
The spark plug should fire at some preordained point before
the piston reaches top dead center (tdc) on the compression stroke.
The amount of spark advance varies with engine type and intended
use, but generally ranges from 15 to 30 ° of crankshaft rotation
before tdc.
Small utility engines have, for the most part, fixed timing.
Engines in industrial or leisure-product roles, where power and fuel
economy is important, cannot rely on factory tolerances and always
have provision for in-field timing adjustments.

SIMPLE ALIGNMENT
A number of American-made engines employ Phelon or Wico
magnetos with elongated slots at the stator-mounting flange. These
slots allow the whole assembly to be moved a few crankshaft
degrees relative to the piston. Tecumseh provides punchmarks on
the stator flange and engine block (Fig. 2-1). When these marks
are aligned , the engine is considered to be in time. Jacobsen uses
travel limits establis hed by the elongated mounting holes as timing
refe rences. From the magneto side of the engine, loosen the two

23
 HOLD-DOWN
CAPSCREW (2)
TIM ING MARKS

Fig. 2-1 . Tecumseh engines are timed by aligning marks on the magneto stator
and stator pedestal. If the stator is replaced-as when substituting a magneto
from another engine-all bets are off, and the engine must be timed as shown
in Fig. 2-5.

magneto hold-down capscrews and rotate the magneto-as far as

slots will allow-counterclockwise for 20-inch. Snow Jet engines.
Retighten the capscrews. The drill is similar for all other Jacobsen
products except that the magneto is turned fully clockwise,
establishing an ignition advance of 20 ° at crankshaft, equivalent
to 1/8 inch of piston travel before tdc.
West Bend, which uses a Wico magneto 5 on slotted mounts,
varies magneto position from full left to full right, depending upon
model and engine rotation. Original timing should be referenced
before disassembly.
T iming procedures as just discussed are somewhat removed
from the real problem (which is to synchronize ignition with piston
movement). Ignition in conventional systems occurs when the points
break open and are no longer conductive. Most manufacturers
coordinate point break with a stationary timing mark. A few
manufacturers go furt her and coordinate point break with a
measured piston travel distance before top dead center.
The four timing procedures described in the remainder of this
chapter detail how this is done. The first two subsections-" Point
Gap Adjustment" and " Point-T o-Cam Adjustment" -describe how
contact point geometry is varied to synchronize ignition with a fixed
timing mark. The " Timing Light" subsection describes how both
point and solid-state ignitions are timed dynamically (while the

24
engine is running). The fourth subsection " Point Break/Piston
Position" shows how ignition is synchronized with piston position
for many magneto-equipped engines.

POINT GAP ADJUSTMENT

Some familiarity with ignition contact points and their
terminology is required to understand the following paragraphs.
Readers are referred to the "Contact Points" section of this chapter.
Point gap has considerable influence on ignition timing,
particularly when points are driven at half engine speed by the
camshaft. Making the gap wider allows the points to remain open
longer and advances timing relative to piston position. By the same
logic, narrowing the gap reduces point duration and retards timing.
This relationship holds for all point-equipped engines, but not all
manufacturers specify it as part of their timing drill. Those that
do have generally arranged matters so that the points are mounted
outside of the flywheel with timing marks on flywheel rim and
engine crankcase.
A test lamp (or meter) is needed to accurately determine when
points open. The lamp should have its own power source when used
on magneto engines. On engines with conventional battery and coil
ignitions, the engine battery can be used for the lamp. The general
procedure is as follows:

• Set ignition point gap to manufacturer's specs.

• Disconnect primary wire to magneto coil, because the coil
is grounded and would short the test lamp.
• Connect one test lamp lead to engine ground and the other
to the moveable, or "hot," point arm .
• Locate timing marks, that might which may require removal
of flywheel shroud (Wisconsin Robin) or inspection plug (some
Kohler models).
• Bring piston up on compression stroke so that timing marks
approximately align.
• Turn the crankshaft about half a revolution against the
direction of normal rotation.
• Slowly turn the crankshaft in normal rotation until the lamp
indicates contact points have separated.
• Adjust point gap to synchronize point separation with timing
mark alignment. Range of permissible adjustment varies with the
manufacturer, but is usually not more than ± 15% of the nominal

25
gap specification. For example, if manufacturer calls fo r a
0.020-inch gap, the actual adjustment can range between 0.017 and
0.023 of an inch.

POINT-TO-CAM ADJUSTMENT
There is a limit to how much point gap variation the ignition
system can tolerate. One way around this constraint is to arrange

PLACE D R O P O F Oi l ON PIVOT POINT

WHEN EVER N EW POI N TS ARE
IN S TA LLED

REFERENCE M ARK L OOSEN SC REWS

FOR - AN O SHIFT BOX-
APPR OXI MATE TI M IN G TO ADVAN C E O R RETARD

FLYWHEEL

--
Fig. 2-2. Onan CCK and CCKA series engines are timed by moving the breaker
box relative to the camshaft. Top dead center is indicated by the letters TC,
a standard industry practice. But because Onan timing specs vary with engine
model and optional equipment, no specific timing mark is provided. CCK
engines are timed 19° before top dead center (btdc). When a strobe light is
used, CCKA electric-start engines with auto advance are timed at 24 btdc; elec-
tric start CCKA engines without the advance mechanism are retarded slightly
to 20 btdc.

26
for the contact points to move as an assembly relative to their
actuating cam. Wico and Phelon under-flywheel magnetos (de-
scribed earlier) have this feature, because their slotted mounts allow
rotation relative to the cam. But for the examples described, the
timing marks were used as final arbiters, and no attempt was made
to determine when the points opened.The discussion here concerns
those systems that combine point assembly movement with
determination of point opening.
Figure 2-2 shows how ignition timing is varied on Onan CCK
series engines. Point gap is adjusted to the specified 0.020 of an
inch, a light is connected across the points, flywheel timing marks
are aligned , and the point box is moved left or right to initiate point
break.

Timing Light
Any engine with external timing marks-that is, marks that
are visible when the engine is assembled and running-can be timed
with a strobe light. Engines with solid-state ignition systems or with
automatic advance mechanisms must be timed with a strobe light.
Solid-state trigger circuits cannot be opened to determine the
moment of firing and, therefore, must be timed while the engine
is running. Nor can automatic advance mechanisms, which may be
mechanical or electronic, be definitively bench tested.
An inexpensive neon timing light is all that is required. Xenon
lights, which are favored by automobile mechanics, require an
external power source that might not be available on a magneto-
equipped engine.
Gap the points (where applicable) to factory specs and connect
the strobe to the spark-plug wire. Twin cylinder engines are
normally set up to fire alternately, 90 ° apart for two-strokes, 180 °
apart fo r four-strokes. When this is the case, one cylinder , known
at No. 1, is the timing referent and the strobe must be connected
to its spark-plug lead. A few twins fire simultaneously, either for
bona fide geometric reasons or because one cylinder receives a
phantom spark during its exhaust stroke. The strobe can be
connected to either lead.
Engines with fixed advance are timed at idle speed, although
speed can be increased to detect point bounce and possible misfires.
Illuminated by a strobe , timing marks appear stationary and it is
simple to bring them into alignment by rotating the magneto or
solid-state module relative to the crankshaft.
The drill for automatic advance mechanis ms is harder to

27
I'\)
00
CAMSHAFT

0
~

~
0 TIMING
CONTR OL
e,e SPRI NG COVER

~
¼., 0
Fig . 2-3. Onan automatic advance
mechanism may occasionally need
cleaning or, at even longer intervals,
spring replacement. Engines so
equipped should be timed while run-
ning 1500 rpm minimum .
 TIMING CHANG ING
SIGHT HOLE I 1==-; 11 PO INT GAP
(Of, BEARING
PLATl DR
vLl'l-ltR fiUUSJ;'/1;,

TIMING I
/
(

LI GHT ,,
/

-~

Fig. 2-4. Kohler single-cylinder timing drill involves small adjustments to point gap while marks are illuminated with a strobe. These engines
I\)
<D may also be static timed, using a test lamp to detect point break.
(.u
0

r--J\if:

2 CYCLE
TI M I N G T HU M BSC REW
TOOL LOOS E U NT IL TIGHTE N
~/ TDC IS - - T H U M BSC R E W
FOU N D, THEN TO HOLD
PLU N GE R

5 6
I
USE GASKET NOR MA L ON C AM )
 EACH MARK IS 1/32 I N CH-ABOUT .030"
THUMBSCRE W EX AMP LE : I F DI MEN SION CA LL E D OUT
REMAINS TIGHT,-~1 IS ~ , SLIGH TLY LESS THAN TWO
H OLDI N G P LU NGER .060 MARKS LENGTH IS REQU I RED.
AT T DC TIGHT EN SCREW WHEN BTD C IS
POSITION ~ ED.

9
BE
SURE
7 THAT T
V DIMENSION IS APPL IED
OPPO SIT E NORMAL ROTAT IO N(AGAINST
CAM ARROW ) ABOUT HALFWAY DOWN CAREFULLY-CORRECT~

BE SURE SCREW IS
TIGHTENED S O - -! 1
THAT P IS T O N WON T
DISTURB 8TDC
POSITION
, . ' r::ii:

NO RMA L ROTATIO N
10 ( ARR O W ON C AM )

...
(,J
Fig . 2-5. T iming drill details.
generalize. Some manufacturers (e.g., Sachs) provide two timing
marks, one for idle rpm and the other for full advance. Others
provide only an idle mark, trusting the mechanics to keep rpm
below the point of automatic advance. A few, such as Onan, provide
a timing specification at full automatic advance. This means that
the engines in question should turn at least 1500 rpm. See Figs.
2-3 and 2-4.

Point Break/Piston Position

Timing methods thus far discussed assume the accuracy of at
least one timing mark. This is a significant assumption, because
timing marks are at the far end of a series of toleranced parts that
begins with the piston crown. Consequently, high-performance
engines, that operate in a narrow window between loss of power
from too much retard and meltdown from too much advance, are
timed by synchronizing point separation with piston position. While
any point-equipped engine (that specifications are available for) can
be timed in this manner, the practice is more prevalent with two-
stroke engines.
Figure 2-5 illustrates the procedure. A timing tool (available
through Tecumseh dealers) is shown, although a dial indicator
mounted vertically over the spark plug port can give even greater
accuracy.
Timing drill for Tecumseh products can be applied to other
point-equipped engines when piston travel before tdc specifications
is available.
1. Install new point set and condenser.
2. Align points for full contact.
3. Rotate crankshaft to cam points full open and adjust gap
to specification.
4. Burnish point contact surfaces with cardboard to help
assure easy startup.
5. Install two-cycle timing tool.

In Fig. 2-5, the tool is used on a four-cycle engine where the

spark-plug port is offset from the cylinder bore. Consequently, it
is necessary to remove head bolts and position the head and timing
tool over the piston dome. Note that the original (compressed) gas-
ket remains in place. A new head gasket will be used for assembly.
6. Slowly turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal
rotation while observing tool plunger. The plunger will rise as tdc
32
is approached, appear almost stationary at tdc and fall as the pis-
ton descends. When apparent tdc is found, lock the plunger with
the thumbscrew and cycle the piston through again. Slight resis-
tance should be felt as the piston top just grazes the plunger tip.
Bring the piston to tdc on compression stroke.
7. Reverse crank rotation for about 90°.
8. Find timing specification for engine in question.
9. Apply specification to the timing tool by extending plunger
to a specified length past tdc. Tighten the thumbscrew securely.
10. Slowly tum the crank in the normal direction to bring the
piston top into light contact with the plunger tip.
11. Loosen the magneto flange capscrews and install the timing
light.
12. Rotate the stator until the points crack open. With the light
still connected, tighten the stator cap screws and verify that the
engine timing remains as set. Disconnect the light, remove the tim-
ing tool, pin prick the new timing marks on the stator and block,
and assemble re maining e ngine parts.

INSUFFICIENT OUTPUT
Ignition system troubleshooting s hould be prefaced by spark
plug replacement because the spark plug is the weakest component
in the system. If this does not clear up the problen1, proceed to test
voltage output and spark consistency.
Voltage can be measured with an automotive oscilloscope, but
mechanics working on small engines almost universally use an air-
gap test. Figure 2-6 shows the typical procedure. The high tension
lead is held so that its terminal is about 1/8 inch from the spark-
plug terminal. The engine is cranked and the quality of spark is
observed. A fat, blue spark that cracks audibly indicates that all
is well with the system. White, spindly sparks might not have volt-
age to start the engine and reddish sparks usually mean burnt points
and, possibly, condenser failure.
There is an exception. Magnetron solid-state ignitions, standard
on Briggs & Stratton engines since August 1982, do not produce
an impressive spark at cranking speed. T o test voltage output,
remove the spark plug, hold the high-tension lead near a block or
cylinder-head ground and crank vigorously. In general, any spark
means that the system is okay.
In most instances, an ignition system that delivers healthy
cranking voltage continues to operate normally at higher speeds.
If you want to test for misfiring, connect a strobe light across the

33
 - - 1/8 INCH

Fig . 2-6. To verify spark output, hold bared high-tension terminal about 1/8
of an inch from the spark plug center terminal or cylinder head and crank the
engine. Spark should be thick and blue.

high tension lead and run the engine up in stages to governed top
speed. Observe light flicker checking for s lips in the pattern.
Warning: Looking directly at Xenon lamps can cause retina
damage. Reflect the light off a polis hed surface.

CONVENTIONAL SYSTEMS
Two conventional ignition systems-battery and coil, and
magneto- are encountered. Because both systems were developed
in parallel, both employ similar components and, with exception
of some troubleshooting procedures, can be discussed together.

Battery & Coil

Found on a number of industrial engines and motorcycles,
battery and coil systems have three great advantages. Voltage
output is highest during starting when it is needed most, individual
components can be isolated and replaced , and primary current is
present whenever the key is on (which simplifies troubleshooting).
Theory. Figure 2-7 is a schematic of a battery and coil system
that, in this case, delivers voltage to two spark plugs. The primary,
or battery-voltage, circuit connects the battery with ignition coil,
breaker points, and condenser. The secondary, or spark-voltage,
circuit connects coil and spark plugs.
When the ignition switch is on and contact points are closed,
the battery discharges into the primary circuit, through heavy pri-
mary windings in the coil and through the stationary contact point
to ground. When points open, primary current is no longer grounded
34
 i Prima ry Circuit - - - · Secondary Circ uit

i Ig nition
Switc h , Batte ry ,
'
l'
'

High Tension Lead

11 Spark
I
I ,C. Condenser Plug

Ignition
Coil
~ Breaker
l
--~---------~-=
~=-
I ,'0 Points

~round _~
I

-=- - - ~-- - - ~-~--~'§'~

Fig . 2-7. Battery and coil circuitry for a Kohler simultaneous firing two-cylinder
engine. If the cylinders fired out of phase, two coils would be used (typical
Japanese motorcycle practice) or a distributor would be interposed between
the high-tension lead and the spark plugs. Single-cylinder system are wired
as shown with, of course, one high- tension lead and spark plug deleted .

and ceases to flow. An inductive reaction in the coil causes a high

voltage spike to be generated in the secondary lead. This voltage
finds ground through the spark plugs and engine block. The
condenser, or capacitor, helps prevent arcing across the points.
Troubleshooting . Begin by checking the battery state of
charge. Specific gravity should be 1.280 at 80° with no more than
0.05 difference between highest and lowest cell reading (Fig. 2-8).
It is also good practice to monitor cranking voltage of electric-start
engines (Fig. 2-9). The battery should produce at least 75% of its
rated voltage during several seconds of starter drain.
Check the point gap. Wear on the rubbing block (the bearing
surface between the movable point arm and the ignition cam)
eventually absorbs the gap, which is typically specified at 0.020
of an inch for American small engines (0.015 of an inch on West
Bend) and 0.012-0.016 of an inch for foreign makes.
Next, check primary circuit continuity with a test lamp rated
at battery voltage or, barring that, a screwdriver. With the ignition
switch on, tum the flywheel until the points open. Connect the lamp

35
 SPECIFIC
GR A VI T Y READ ING Fig. 2-8. The first step in battery and
SHOULD BE
0 coil troubleshooting is to determine
I . 200 AT 00 F .
the state of the charge of the battery
with a hydrometer (Courtesy Onan).
\

Volt And
Ohmmeter

Battery

Fig. 2-9. Battery capacity-as distinguished from state of charge-is also im-
portant for electric-start engines. The starter motor takes precedence and , if
the battery is too small , will rob the ignition system of voltage.

36
between the n1oveable ("hot") point arm and ground. The light
should come on. If it does not come on, trace the circuit back to
its source, successively connecting the lamp to the negative coi l
terminal, positive terminal , ignition switch and battery terminals.
Eventually the circuit break will be found.
If, on the other hand , the lamp lights when connected across
the hot point arm and ground, turn the flywheel until the points
close. The lamp should go out because since the hot point is now
grounded through the stationary point. If it continues to bum, point
contacts are oxidized and should be cleaned or replaced.
If both of these tests are negative, that is, if primary voltage
is present at the moveable point arm with the points open and absent
when points are closed, the problem is best solved by substitution.
In order of frequency, the failed component is:

• Contact points.
• Condenser (replace together with contact points).
• Coil.
• High tension lead.

Magneto Systems
A magneto can be thought of as a battery and coil system with
a high-voltage, permanent-magnet generator replacing the battery.
The system is compact, self-contained, and provides a spark
intensity roughly proportional to rpm. Before the advent of
electronics, racing engines were universally fitted with magnetos.
Theory . Figure 2-10 shows the parts arrangement of a typical
magneto, although another configuration-with points and
condenser mounted remotely from the coil-is also encountered.
The primary circuit consists of primary windings in the coil, breaker
points, condenser, and may include a kill switch that shuts down
the engine by shorting primary voltage to ground. The secondary
circuit consists of secondary coil windings, high tension lead, and
spark plug.
Figures 2-11 and 2-12 illustrate magneto operation about as well
as drawings can. As the flywheel turns, a magnet sweeps the coil,
energizing its primary windings. Some 300V is produced this way
and flows through the closed points and engine ground to the coil,
as shown in Fig. 2-11. In the next drawing, the points open . P ri-
mary voltage collapses together with the magnetic field associated
with that voltage. Secondary windings are energized to some
12,000V and the spark plug fires.
37
 A S THE MAGNETIC F IELD
OF FORCE PASSES THE
IG N ITIO N CO IL, THE
PR IMA RY WINDINGS CUT MAGNE T ROTATES
THE LI NE S OF MAGNETIC WITH FLYWHEEL
FO RCE, IND UCI NG
A CURRE NT FLOW ENG INE F LY WHE EL
IN THE PR I MARY ROTATIO N
WINDING \ MAGN ET IC
F IEL D (LI NES}
OF FORCE
/
/<.~ \/
'/)
......'::. ~~~

STATOR
L AM INATIONS
11 ._........_ CONCENTRATE
THE MAG-

0 NETIC F IE LD

STATOR ASSE M BLY

Fig. 2-10. Magneto parts arrangement and nomenclature. The cam that opens
the contract points is omitted for clarity.

Troubleshooting. A magneto is heavily dependent upon

parts geometry, and particularly the position of the magnets relative
to the coil at the moment of point break, known as edge distance.
For troubleshooting purposes it is sufficient to verify that the fly-
wheel or magnet rotor key is true and that its keyway is neither
wallowed or cracked. It should also be noted that rotary lawnmower
engines may not start if the blade is missing or loose, because the
lack of blade inertia affects edge distance.
Magnetos develop high primary currents and, consequently,
point life is short. This is particularly true if the system operates
off the crankshaft to generate a spark each revolution. Because the
condenser affects point life and spark intensity, change both parts
at the first sign of trouble.
38
 INDUCED PRI MARY
SECONDARY
WINDINGS
,.. - CURRE NT CREA TES
STRO NG MAGNETIC
LIN ES OF FORCE A-
-,:::-__ ROUNO THE PR IMARY
WINDI NGS. THE SECON-
DARY WIN DI NGS ARE
A LSO SURR OU NDED
BY THIS STRO NG
MAGNET IC F IELD .

~~Wl__ PO INTS CLOSED TO

'9'1:l l::"'t ALLO W CU RRENT TO
FLOW IN PRI MARY

Fig. 2-11 . Points are closed , completing the primary circuit which is energized
by the interaction of magnetic force with primary coil windings.

AS THE POI NTS OPEN

SECONDARY - THE STRONG FIELD
WINDINGS OF FORC E COLLAPSES
MAGNE TIC L INES ARE
- ~ - CUT BY THE SECON-
DARY WINDI NGS AS
THEY COLL APSE. THE
CUTTING INDUCES A
CURRE N, FLO W INTO
SECO N DARY WINDING.
TH E SECONDARY Cl R-
CUIT IS COMPL ETED
A S THE SPARK OCCU RS
AT THE SPARK PLUG
ELE CTROD ES .

POIN TS OPE N TO STOP

CURRE N T FLOW IN
PR IMARY

AS POINTS OPEN THE SPARK PLUG F IRES

Fig. 2-12. Points open , breaking the primary circuit continuity. A burst of high
voltage is induced in the secondary and goes to ground through the spark plug
gap.

39
Check wiring insulation for possible damage. Pay special attention
to the kill switch wire that can be fouled by carburetor controls.
While it is impossible to tally all the things that can go wrong with
various magnetos, one special case deserves mention. Small
European motorbikes are often wired with the stop lamp in series
with the ignition coil. Should the lamp fail, the coil is denied ground
and the whole system shuts down.
The coil is the last component to be suspected because it is the
most reliable and most expensive to replace. Coils can be checked
with the appropriate equipment, but the surest check is to substitute
a known good unit.

Flywheel Removal and Installation

Small engine magnetos, almost by definition , use the flywheel
as the magnet carrier. Most mount contact points, condenser and
coil under the flywheel, but some employ remotely mounted points
driven at half engine speed by the camshaft. Battery and coil
systems often incorporate under-flywheel coils for charging
purposes. In any event, the mechanic should become thoroughly
familiar with flywheel removal, inspection, and installation.
Small engine flywheels are secured by a crankshaft nut, a
tapered fit, and a key. Most engines you will encounter use a
standard right-hand thread (overhand and left to loosen). If there
is any doubt about the matter, check the manufacturer's manual.
Briggs & Stratton engines are a special case because units with
rewind or impulse starters secure the flywheel with a light metal
starter clutch assembly. The company provides a wrench (part No.
19114) and a socket (part No. 19161), either of which will allow
the starter clutch assembly to be removed and installed without
damage (Fig. 2-13). Flywheel fasteners on other engines can be
removed with the appropriate metric or American socket.
As also shown in Fig. 2-13, Briggs & Stratton provides a fly-
wheel holder, suitable for 6 3/4-inch OD and smaller wheels. How-
ever, its utility is limited on vertical shaft engines-the holder itself
must be somehow secured-and n1ost mechanics prefer a strap
wrench (Fig. 2-14). It is bad practice to secure the assembly by
blocking one of the flywheel air vanes, because the vane can snap
off or, worse, can crack and fly off when the engine is running.
A lockwasher is usually present under the crankshaft nut. Note
that for Briggs & Stratton the concave (dished inward) side of the
lockwasher is assembled next to the flywheel.

40
 \ TO
LOOSEN

STARTER
CLUTCH
WRENCH
19 11 4

FLYWHEEL
HOLDER 19167

Fig. 2-13. A Briggs & Stratton starter clutch wrench is almost a necessity when
servicing these engines. The company also provides a socket wrench for the
same purpose.

There are at least four ways to separate flywheel and

crankshaft.

• Heavy, iron wheels can usually be jimmied off with two

screwdrivers inserted between the back side of the wheel and the
crankcase.
• Most aluminum flywheels require a hub puller, which takes
purchase in bolt holes provided in the flywheel hub (Fig. 2-15). Do
not use a jaw-like gear puller that hooks over the flywheel rim.

Fig. 2-14. A strap wrench , such as the one shown here and available from
Tecumseh as part No. 670305, is the preferred tool for holding the flywheel.
Rotary lawnmower wheels can be secured by blocking the blade with a short
two by four.

41
Fig. 2-15. A flywheel puller for most American engines can be fabricated or
ordered from Kohler (shown) and other manufacturers. Briggs & Stratton and
most other engines do not have pr&-tapped puller mounting holes. Self-tapping
capscrews must be used. Small European and Japanese engines are a special
problem because their flywheels commonly use a threaded counterbore.
Threads are metric and a special puller is required, available from the manufac-
turer or, as the case may have it, from bicycle dealers (these tools are also
used to disassemble cotterless bicycle cranks.)

• Clinton and Tecumseh suppl y flywheel knockers

(Tecumseh part Nos. 670103 for 7/16-inch crankshafts and 670189
for 1/2-inch shafts, both right-hand threaded). These tools dislodge
the flywheel by impact and should be used with great care. A
glancing blow can break or bend the crankshaft stub, and light,
ineffectual blows can scramble flywheel magnets (Fig. 2-16).
• Although no factory recommends it and conscientious
mechanics abhor the practice, flywheels have been removed with
a brass bar used as a knocker. A large screwdriver used as a pry bar
behind the wheel helps reduce breakaway force, but is no guaran-
tee that the crankshaft will not be ruined.

42
 Ins pect the flywheel hub for cracks (Fig. 2-17). Remove the
key from the crankshaft, and replace if worn or distorted (Fig. 2-18).
Check both flywheel and crankshaft keyways for excessive
clearance that will allow the crankshaft to move relative to the fly-
wheel. Movement on the order of a few hundredths of an inch as
measured at the flywheel rim will upset edge distance and could
result in hard starting. Unfortunately, there is no way to restore
keyways, and damaged parts should be replaced.
It is not necessary to finally assemble the flywheel to test
magneto output. Replace the key, slip the flywheel over the
crankshaft and-with spark plug removed-hold the high tension
lead with its bared output terminal 1/8 inch or so from the block.
Spin the flywheel by hand; be careful not to cut your fingers on
the governor air vane or other obstructions near the flywheel rim.
A spark should be generated.
Once satisfied that the system operates, check key position as
shown in Fig. 2-19. Replace the lockwasher and tighten the fly-
wheel nut to manufacturer's specifications.

Contact Points
Small engine point assemblies are built in two basic

METAL
HAMMER ~

KNOCK OF F TOOL

"'
SCREW DRIVER
TO RAISE FLY WHEEL

Fig. 2-16. If you use a knocker, be certain it matches property with the crankshaft
threads.

43
 BATTERED BATTERED
KEYWAY KEYWAY

Fig . 2-17. A cracked flywheel hub is bad news, but there is some consolation
in knowing how the damage occurred. A crack on the trailing side of the keyway
means impact damage (A). The crankshaft suddenly stopped and the flywheel
attempted to overtake it. A crack on the leading side of the keyway (B) means
that the crankshaft was overspeeding the flywheel and can only occur if the
flywheel nut were loose.

PARTLY
SHEARED KEY

Fig. 2-18. Damaged flywheel keys must be replaced .

44
 WRONG

RIGHT

RIGHT

0
WRON G
r-- - -1----------,F::::::~-- -
' -- /

Fig. 2-19. When there is latitude in installing a flat key, as in the case of Kohler
engines, position the key flush with the crankshaft shoulder (A). Half-moon
keys are installed parallel to the crankshaft centerline (8).

configurations. What we might call the "standard" configuration

consists of a pivoted point arm, a flat point spring, and a fixed arm
(Fig. 2-20). Contacts are discs of tungsten (that can be perforated
for cooling). T he pivoted arm and its spring are electrically '' hot. "
The pivoted arm may bear directly aga inst the cam and often
features a nylon or phonelic rubbing block at the cam interface for
better wear resistance and gap stability. Alternately, the point
assembly can be mounted at some distance from the cam and
articulated by means of a plunger.
The other configuration has been used on Briggs & Stratton
under-flywheel magnetos for many years. In this design, the fixed

45
46
 - -- · - ----- · ---

QI
IN DEX ! PART NUMBER ASS Y REF I DESCR IPTI ON

11 1 I 1 18 000 1 Fl ywh ee l Cover

2 11797 00 000 1 Nut
3 11 794 00 000 1 Rotor Def l ec t or
4 11795 00 000 1 Rubber Ga s ket
5 11796 00 000 l Lock Nu t Rot o r
6 1213 1 00 000 I Ro t o r
7 12703 00 000 1 Bo l t
8 1 l 08 l 00 000 6 Bo 1 t
9 00056 00 000 1 Nu t D4/7 5 - H3 5
10 1 119 1 00 000 1 Co nde nse r
lI 11 11 7 00 000 I lgni ti on Coi 1
12 13294 00 000 l Lighting Coi 1
I3 13309 00 000 1 St op 1 i g h t Co i 1
14 00925 00 000 1 Li g hting Coi 1 Te rm ina l
15 1 I 218 00 000 1 Was he r
16 00959 00 000 1 Bo It
17 11220 00 000 1 Ci r e 1 i p
18 1 1219 00 000 I Wa s he r
l9 12584 00 000 1 Po in ts Leve r - Comp l e t e
20 1194 7 00 000 1 Con t ac t ( Kit 3)
21 00339 00 000 2 Wa sher
22 11 120 00 000 1 Po int s

~ Fig. 2-20. Velosolex under flywheel magneto showing standard configuration point set (20) . The hooked bracket mounts the fixed , or ground -
--.J ed, contact.
point is integral with the condenser and is hot. The grounded arm
swings on a kind of rudimentary hinge and is secured by a small
coil spr ing.
Troubleshooting. Points and condenser are sacrificial items
and should be replaced at the first sign of ignition trouble that a
spark-plug change does not cure. In rough order of frequency, point
failure is occasioned by:

• High resistance across the contacts, caused by oxidation

and/or metal migration. Normal contacts are slate gray in
appearance, rough but without the peak and valley associated with
metal transfer. Oxidized points are dark (sometimes black). The
movable arm might show blue temper stain from overheating.
• Loss of point gap caused by wear on the plunger or rubbing
block.

If contacts are good , points can be reset and tested.

• Loss of spring tension usually associated with point

oxidation and subsequent overheating, but may be the result of
fatigue. Symptom is high speed misfiring as points bounce and float.
Because small engine manufacturers do not supply spring tension
data, test by replacement.
• Oil fouling from seal failure is recognized by a splatter of
carburized oil under the point contacts. Main bearing or plunger
seal is involved.
• Broken or frayed primary wiring is almost always the fault
of a mechanic who misrouted the wire.

Servicing. "STAND ARD" configuration points are secured

to the baseplate with one or two screws and can be located by short
pins. When working quarters are tight-as in the case of Bosch-
pattern magnetos that are serviced through small flywheel
"windows"-i t is advisable to use a magnetized screwdriver. The
electrical connection between the moveable arm and the primary
circuit usually takes the form of a small screw, but some point sets
use the stationary point bracket as a tie point and incorporate an
insulator (Figs. 2-21).
Upon removal of the point assembly, remove all traces of oil
from the mounting area. Lubricate the cam with high-melting point
grease and, when present, oil the cam wick. The point pivot can
be oiled.

48
 0

FISER WASHER
STEEL WASHER

COHOEHSE R LEAD WIRE COHOEHSER

MUST FI T T OGETHER

PARALLEL

Fig. 2-21 . Briggs & Stratton manufacturers these remotely mounted , standard
configuration points as part of their Magna-Matic ignition system (A). Point sets
can be complicated. Make careful note of the parts layout. The detent in sta-
tionary arm bracket must be indexed with a hole in the insulating plate (B) and,
upon assembly, the breaker plate must be parallel with the left-hand edge of
the breaker box (C).

49
 Install the new point set, aligning pins are present with indexing
holes. Tighten the electrical connection; be careful not to twist the
moveable ann spring into contact with ground. Lightly secure hold -
down screw(s).
While few mechanics take time to verify that contacts are par-
allel and concentric, this step can extend point life. While A of Fig.
2-22 illustrates the correct contact pattern, B of Fig. 2-22 shows
the loss of contact surface that results from misalignment. Correct
by bending the fixed contact with hold down screws tight. A bending
bar, such as the one supplied by T ecumseh, should be used to avoid
scratching the contacts. Use the following procedures to adjust the
point gap:
S tep 1. Made a preliminary adjustment so that points make
and break as the flywheel is turned. Lightly snug the hold-down
screw .
Step 2. Turn the flywheel until points open to maximum
extension. When possible, visually verify that the high point of the
cam is against the rubbing back or point-actuating plunger.
Step 3 . As mentioned earlier, 0.020 inch is the more or less
universal standard point gap for small engines, specified for most

0
CORRECT

CONTACT AREA
0
INCORRECT

Fig . 2-22. Correct point alignment (A) results in full contact and maximum ser-
vice life. Lack of parallelism or eccentricity reduces contact area (B). While
visual examination is usually sufficient to determine alignment, in restricted
quarters contact pattern can be registered by closing the points on a piece
of plain paper with carbon paper.

50
Fig. 2-23. Point gap adjustment on under-flywheel magneto.

and runable in any. This gap can be set with a 0.020-inch feeler
gauge or, perhaps more accurately, with 0.019-inch and 0.021 -inch
blades used as go/no-go gauge.
Step 4. Using the screw or screwdriver-pry slots provided,
move the fixed contact until the 0.0 19-inch go gauge slips easily
between them and the 0.0210-inch no-go gauge forces the moveable
contact open against its spring (Fig. 2-23). Gauge blades must be
held dead parallel to contact surfaces during this operation.
Step 5. Tighten the hold-down screw(s) and recheck the gap.
Distortion as the assembly is tighted usually affects gap and the
adjustment must be repeated (this time anticipating for the change).
Step 6. Burnish points with a piece of cardboard (torn fr om
the box that the points came in) to remove fingerprints, oil from
the feeler gauge, and oxidation (Fig. 2-24).
Replace the condenser with the points, cleaning the condenser
mounting area and routing the lead wire clear of the flywheel a nd
other moving parts. Replacement procedure for integral Briggs &
Stratton point and condenser sets is a follows:
Step 1 . Remove the dust cover, held by two 1/4-inch self-
tapping screws.
Step 2. Remove the condenser hold-down and point-support
screws (Fig. 2-25).
Step 3. Disengage the coil and optional kill switch wires from
the condenser, using the tool supplied in the Briggs & Stratton
replacement point-set package or , lacking that, by "unscrewing"
the spring with a pair of miniature water pump pliers.

51
 LINT FREE PAPER

Fig. 2-24. After adjustment, point contacts should be burnished with paper to
remove oil and possible oxidation. Snap points to remove any lint.

POST

CLAMP - _..,,~ ~
CONDENSER--::::;::::--~

Fig. 2-25. Point disassembly for Briggs & Stratton light and medium frame
engines. Note how the ground wire on the moveable point arm is routed .

52
 Step 4 . Inspect for oil in the point cavity; replace crankshaft
seal as necessary.
Ste p 5. Inspect the point plunger for wobble. The plunger
hole can be reamed and bushed, if necessary.
Step 6. Replace plunger if worn down to 0.870 of an inch
or less (A of Fig. 2-26). Assemble with the grooved end toward the
points (B of Fig. 2-26).
Step 7. Install the replacement moveable points arm by first
engaging the post on its mount, mating the slot in the post with
the indexing tab.
Step 8. Tighten the point hold-down screw.
Ste p 9. Position the moveable point arm for installation with
its braided ground wire outboard of the post, as shown in Fig. 2-27.
Step 10. One end of the point spring is open, the other end
forms a closed loop. Guide the open end through two holes provided
in the moveable point arm. Slip the closed end of the spring over
the groove in the spring mounting post.
Ste p 11. Grasp the moveable arm and, pulling against spring
tension, engage it into the slot provided in its mounting pedestal.
Step 12. Using the depressor tool, install the coil and kill
switch wires on the condenser terminal (Fig. 2-28).
Step 13. Rotate the crankshaft to retract the point plunger.
Step 14. Install the condenser so that point contacts lightly
touch and snug the hold-down screw.
Step 15. Turn the crankshaft to extend the plunger and open
the points.
Ste p 16. Measure the gap with a 0.020-inch feeler gauge,
moving the condenser as required to establish the correct gap.

Fig. 2-26. Excessive plunger wear can affect point geometry (A). Install the
plunger with the groove adjacent to the moveable point arm (8) .

53
 Screwdriver
here to move
condense r
backward
Keyway 1n crankshaft

here to move
condense r
fo rward

clamp sc rew

Co ntact poi nt bracket

Ground w ire

Fig . 2-27 . Gap points with braided ground wire outboard of point arm pedestal
and open eyelet of spring hooked to moveable point arm. Turn the crankshaft
to bring the keyway adjacent to the point plunger; snug the c lamp screw and
set the point gap 0 .020 of an inch . Use a screwdriver to move the condenser
into or away from the moveable arm contact. Tighten clamp screw and check
gap.

DEPRESSOR
TOOL

SPR IHG--i

COHOEMSER

----
I

Fig . 2-28. A depressor tool, packed in Briggs & Stratton replacement point sets,
should be part of a small engine mechanic's tool kit.

54
 Step 1 7 . Tighten the condenser hold-down screw and recheck
the gap. Some "creep" is inevitable and the operation will have
to be repeated.
Step 1 8 . Burnish the contacts with cardboard .
Step 1 9 . Install the flywheel key and flywheel.
Step 20. Test magneto output by spinning flywheel.

Filing Points
Ideally, burnt contact points should be replaced-together with
the offending condenser-but this is not always practical in the field.
Do what you can. Use a fine , single-cut file and work patiently until
both contacts are bright. Some mechanics mount the point assembly
in a vise and dress the contacts s lightly convex to assure that they
meet over a wide area. But, in an emergency, all that's needed is
to close the contacts over a file and get after it.

Ignition Coils
While ignition coils can be tested with the proper equipment,
substituting a known good coil is the best test. Battery and coil
systems are tolerant and any coil of the same rated voltage can be
used as a test. Indeed, it is common practice to permanently
substitute department-store specials for expensive original
equipment manufacture (OEM) coils on some Japanese motorcycles.
Unfortunately, magneto coils offer few opportunities for
interchange (although it is possible to swap coils from other engir ,s
that use the same, or a similar, magneto). Older designs have the
coil secured to the armature by means of a spring wire clip, and
it is sometimes possible to replace the coil without disturbing
armature hold-down fasteners. More modern designs usually
integrate coil and armature into a s ingle assembly.
Whenever the armature is disturbed on a magneto system, it
is necessary to re-establish armature-to-flywheel (or rotor) distance.
This distance varies with manufacturer and model, but is usually
in the neighborhood of 0.006 of an inch to compensate for
manufacturing tolerances, worn bearings, and thermal expansion.
The traditional way to establish the air gap is to insert shim stock
of required thickness between the flywheel (or rotor) and the loosely
attached coil assembly (Fig. 2-29). Turn the crankshaft until the
magnets are under the armature, tighten the armature hold-downs
and remove the shim stock. A business card can be substituted for
shim stock at some sacrifice in precision.

55
 I Alt""' TUltf

•
00WM

"'
...'"°"'
'"'"' s TOC1t
TUltM \ IM f'lACf
""'Gllf T
,
AltMATUltf
•

ltOlL
OUT

'"'"'
Fig. 2-29 . Briggs & Stratton coils mount outside the flywheel, simplifying air
gap adjustment.

Phelon, Wico, and a number of other magnetos are completely

contained in the flywheel cavity and do not have built-in provision
for adjustment. Normally, the air gap is ignored, on the theory of
letting sleeping dogs lie, but an inquisitive mechanic can determine
the gap by wrapping the armature with vinyl electrical tape (Fig.
2-30). Two layers of tape, applied without creases and without

Fig. 2-30. Vinyl electrical tape serves as an air gap indicator for magnetos with
under-flywheel coils . Clinton shown.

56
stretching for a total thickness of 0.014-0.018 of an inch, should
cause interference when the flywheel is torqued down and rotated.
(Because of tolerance stack and greater heating effects, the under-
flywheel-coil air gap is about twice that of coi ls mounted outboard
of the flywheel.) The air gap can be reduced by judicious parts
changing and can be increased by filing the ends of the armature.
Nevertheless, armature ends must be filed evenly, because each
leg of the laminations must be the same distance from the magnets.
Edge distance , E-gap, breakaway gap, and pole shoe break
describe the spacial relationship between the ignition coil armature
and the magneto magnet at the moment of point break. This
relationship is fixed on American engines, or, if not, is clearly
marked (Fig. 2-31). On some foreign engines pole shoe break must
be re-established whenever ignition coil hold-down screws have
been disturbed. Figure 2-32 illustrates pole shoe break for a high-
performance Bosch magneto. Other manufacturers measure from
different referents.
Optimum pole shoe break can be approximated with the aid
of point gap variations. Increasing the gap narrows pole shoe break.
Thus, if an engine has a point gap specification of 0.020 inch and
produces its best spark at, say, 0.026 of an inch, the pole-shoe break
should be increased as necessary to give best spark at specified
point gap.

SOLID-STATE SYSTEMS
Capacitive discharge ignition (CDI) systems have all but made

ARROW OH ARMATURE
ARMATURE MUST
L IHE UP WITH
COIL
CORRECT EH~IH
MARK OH ROTO

ROTOR

Fig. 2-31 . Briggs & Stratton Magna-Matic E-gap varies with engine model ; ar-
mature is marked accordingly.

57
 Spark Plug Gap O 16" / 020 "

F tywhee1 -co,1
Gap· .98" / 1. 18"
( Measure only
w ith non -st eel
feeler gau ge) ~r7~~ Po le Shoe
Break
.334 " / .492"

Co t!

ffJ/ Brell kfH Point

f G ao .0 11 " 1.0 19"

View From P T O End

Fig. 2-32. Robert Bosch magneto has pole shoe break (E-gap) specification
of 0.334-0.492 of an inch, measured between north pole lamination and coil
housing.

conventional systems obsolete. While circuit details vary somewhat

between makes and models, basic operation, shown schematically
in F ig. 2-33, is similar. The flywheel magnet (1-A) passes the input
coil, generating an ac voltage of about 200V at normal engine
speeds. Rectifier (3) converts alternating current to direct current,
suitable for storage in a large capacitor (4). About 180 ° of
crankshaft rotation later, the magnet passes a trigger coil,
generating a s mall voltage across resistor (6). This voltage causes
the silicon-controlled rectifier (7) to become conductive, releasing
the charge on the capacitor (4) into primary windings of the pulse
transformer (8). A large voltage is generated in the transformer's
secondary windings that goes to ground across the spark plug (9)
electrodes. Some CDis employ a second trigger coil to retard the
s park at low rpm; others feature electronic advance (keyed to rpm
as a function of trigger-coil voltage).

58
 These systems are highly integrated and may combine the pulse
transformer and input coil in the same housing. Low-voltage
generating coils needed to provide power for accessories and battery
charging may also be present.
CDI systems have three advantages over the systems they re-
place. Output voltage, particularly on outboard motor and
snowmobile applications, is extremely high. Voltage buildup is rapid
and carboned spark plugs usually will fire before voltage has time
to leak to ground. And , perha ps most important, contact points are
eliminated (together with the rationale for frequent tune-ups).
On the debit side, CDis are not re pairable in any significant
sense. Other than to inspect wiring and remove rust accumulations
on the magnet faces (that can cause high-speed misfire), there is
little a mechanic can do.
Some systems are entirely encapsulated and must be changed
out as a unit. Others are divided into low- and high-tension sections,

SPARK PLUG

® 0 MAGNET

-=~I
I INsI

INPUT COIL
;@
RECTIFIER

(
®
I I
I I
I I
I
I
II ...__ _____. CAPACITOR

PULSE @)
TRANSFORMER
® ---TRIGGER COIL
@
s N

MAGNET
&) .

Fig . 2-33. The Tecumseh COi system .

59
with the low-tension generating and switching circuits near the
magnets and the high-tension coil mounted on the engine block or
frame. Dealers test equipment will at least identify which half of
the system should be replaced.
Other des igns employ a discrete trigger coil with leads to the
encapsulated remainder of the circuit. Trigger coil output can be
checked with a very sensitive voltmeter or, lacking that, with an
ordinary ohmmeter set on its lowest range. Connect the ohmmeter
across t rigger coil output leads and spin the flywheel. The meter
will see coil output voltage as a sudden increase in resistance.
Some manufacturers have not completed the changeover to
CDI, and otherwise identical engines come off the line with either
conventional or solid-state ignitions. Magneto ignition coils on some
Tecumseh engines even look like CDI modules made by the same
company, but the magneto version requires a gray stepped flywheel
key while the CDI uses a gold key (Fig. 2-34).
Magnetron Retrofit. Briggs & Stratton Magnetron CDI
entered series production in August 1982, replacing the magneto
shown in Figs. 2-25 through 2-28. The $15 Magnetron kit, part No.
394970, can be used to update ignition systems in older , single-
cylinder, aluminum block engines with the " two-legged " armature
(as shown in Fig. 2-29). In addition , the kit is the replacement part
for failed Magnetron units on cast-iron block, single- and twin-
cylinder engines. First-time installation requires about an hour.
Step 1. Disconnect the spark plug lead and remove the
blower housing (flywheel shroud).
S tep 2. The factory suggests that the flywhee l be removed
to access primary and kill-switch wiring, and to replace the flywheel
key with an identical key supplied in the kit. Flywheel removal is
not mandatory, because the wires can be snipped at their exit-point
at t he dust cover (Fig. 2-35). However, the wires will be several
inches short of the Magnetron and must be spliced.
Step 3. Normally the points and condenser are left
undisturbed. If you want to disca rd the points, the point plunger
hole must be sealed with part No. 231143 for single-cylinder engines
or part No. 231262 for twins. Failure to block off the hole results
in a serious oil leak.
S te p 4 . Remove the two capscrews holding the ignition coil
armature and governor vane bracket to the engine block. Note: Four
rivet heads identify the visible side of the armature (Fig. 2-35). Some
models require disengagement of the air vane from its wire and
spring linkage.

60
 e
ROUNO COIL

0
~ C
0
GRAY STEPPED
KEY

[ II 0
0 GRAY KEY fflPPEDEMI
'-"rowARO ENGINE
II I
0 0

0
SQUARE MOOULE

0
~
I GOLD COLORED
KEY
0
C /

0 0
GOLD KEY
0, ,0
e
Fig. 2-34. Tecumseh magneto and COi coils are vaguely similar in appearance,
but not interchangeable. The magneto coil is cylinderical and used in conjunc-
tion with a gray flywheel key (A) . The COi unit is rectangular and requires a
gold key (B).

Step 5. Hold the ignition coil armature upright, standing it

on its " legs" with its inner side (the side without rivet heads) facing
you. As the part is now oriented, the Magnetron module installs
between the coil and the right leg.
Step 6. Using finger pressure only, s lip the module into
position, making certain its plastic hook locks on the armature
shoulder. See F ig. 2-36.
Step 7. Prepare to make the electrical hookup. One or two
hot (insulated) wires ran to the ignition points. One wire connected
the p0ints with the coil primary and the other, optional, wire went

61
 to the kill switch, located near the carburetor. The ignition coil was
also grounded through a bare wire that attached to one of the coil
annature hold-down screws. The Magnetron module has two wires:
a long ground wire with a terminal on its end and a short,
uninsulated hot wire.
Step 8. Remove the insulation about 3/4 of an inch back from
the wire(s) that originally went to the ignition points. Scrape bare
wire ends to remove varnish.
Step 9. Route the wire(s) in under the ignition coil to lay be-
tween the coil and cylinder upon assembly. If the flywheel has been
removed , wire length should be sufficient to reach the Magnetron.
If not, splice in additional wire, twisting the ends for mechanical
strength and soldering with 60-40 rosin core solder. Do not use
crimp-on connectors for these or other connections. Complete the
job with heat-shrink tubing or vinyl electrician's tape.
S tep 10. Connect these wires to the s hort, uninsulated
Magnetron hot wire. Twist the wires, making two fuJl turns, and
secure with a small amount of rosin-core solder, using only enough
heat to flow the solder into the joint (Fig. 2-37).
Step 11. The installation kit contains a small coil spring and
a ]-shaped connector. Slip the coil spring over the long ann of the

NOTE LARGE RIVET HEADS ON ARMATURE FRONT

AIR VANE BRACKET: ~~

REMOVE SHADED -
AREA FOR MODULE
CLEARANCE

ARMATURE
CUT WIRES SCREW
HERE

2 LEG
ARMATURE

Fig. 2-35. It is not absolutely necessary to remove the flywheel to retrofit a

Magnetron COi on many Briggs & Stratton engines. However, flywheel removal
simplifies the work . Note the four rivet heads visible on coil laminations that
reference the outboard (flywheel) side of laminations.

62
 ARMATURE
GROUN D
WIRE

Fig. 2-36. The Magnetron module

must be installed on right-hand coil
lamination "leg" as viewed from the
3" underside of the armature/coi l
assembly. In this position, rivet
heads will not be seen .

ARMA TURE 5/8"

PRIMARY ( 16 mm)
WIRE

J so that its end abuts the crossbar. This assembly is shown in Fig.
2-38. Insert the J connector-hook first- into the hole provided on
the side of the module. Using a drill bit, punch or the contact-point
end of a Briggs & Stratton condenser, press the connector into the
bore against spring tension. The connector might have to be turned
to align the hook with the slot in the bore. Slip the wires soldered
in the previous step under the connector hook and withdraw the
tool to release spring tension. The connector will retract (holding
the wires securely). Snip off the ends of the wires 3.16 of an inch
beyond the connector.
Step 12. Twist the armature ground and module ground wires
together close to the armature (Fig. 2-39). Solder the connection.

ARMATURE
PRIMARY
WIRE

Fig. 2-37. Coil hot (insulated) wire(s)

are twisted together and soldered to
the short, uninsulated Magnetron
hot wire and installed in the unit with
a special clip.

t SOLDER

TOOL

63
 MODULE MODULE
PRIMARY GROUND
WIRE WIRE

' MODULE
TERMINAL

Fig. 2-38. A Magnetron J-clip (inset) secures a previously soldered coil hot and
Magnetron hot wires to the module body.

Because both wires have terminals, the shorter of the two can be
snipped off.
S tep 13. To prevent vibration damage, secure the wires under
the coil with Permatex or another sealant.
S tep 14 . Install the armature, ground wire, and governor vane.
The ground wire is not to be attached on the air vane side of
armature. Armature-to-flywheel clearance is 0.006 to 0.010 of an
inch for engines up to 13 cubic inches displacement and 0.010 to
0.014 of an inch for large models. (The first two digits in the model

ARMATURE AND
MODULE GROUND
WIRE TERMINAL

LARGE
- - - - - - - - - . RIVET HEAD
APPLY PER MA TEX
TO THIS AREA

MODULE
.___.....-- TERMINAL

Fig. 2-39. The unit is installed on the block with large rivet heads up, wires
are secured with Permatex, and the coil air gap is adjusted.

64
number indicates cubic inch displacement-60000 translates as 6.0
cubic inches and 140000 means 14 cubic inches).
Step 15. Test the spark output by spinning the flywheel at
least 350 rpm.
Step 16. Complete assembly and the start engine. If the
system produces spark but the engines does not start, suspect a
sheared key.

65
•
 Chapter 3

=O=

Carburetors and Fuel Systems

The carburetor is a much-maligned instrument whose primary
purpose is to atomize liquid gasoline into an explosive mist.
Unfortunately for mechanics, this is not as easy as it sounds and
the hardware can be a bit intimidating.

OPERATION
Carburetors have five basic elements. The throttle, which is part
of the carburetor closest to the engine, is a valve that determines
how much air-fuel mixture is delivered. On American designs, the
throttle is a pivoted plate, mounted across the carburetor bore (Fig.
3-1). European and some Japanese manufacturers favor a sliding
throttle, or s huttle, that pulls upward out of the carburetor bore.
All throttles incorporate an adjustable stop on the closed side that
determines engine rpm at idle.
Gasoline moves through the carburetor along two channels,
called circuits, in the carburetor body casting. The low-speed circuit
delivers fuel through one or more tiny holes just upstream of the
throttle. As its name indicates, the low-speed circujt functions when
the throttle is nearly closed. An adjustment needle is provided to
regulate the amount of gasoline or, in a few examples, the amount
of air in the mixture. The high-speed circuit empties through a port
or removable jet located upstream of the low-speed port. It comes
into play when the throttle is opened, although there is an overlap

67
 IDLE ADJ UST NEEDLE
TH ROTT LE STOP
~ SCR EW

'
I

T HR OT TLE
SH A F T &
L E VER

GAS K E T

FLOAT

--- MA IN J ET
A SSY .

Fig. 3-1 . Basic carburetor nomenclature. The example shown is an Onan float-
type, side-draft carburetor using a pivoted throttle plate. An area of confusion
for beginning mechanics is that nomenclature is not entirely consistent among
manufacturers. For example, the throttle plate is called the throttle valve or
butterfly; the throttle stop screw is also known as the idle rpm screw; the idle
adjust screw is termed the idle, or low speed , adjustment; and the adjustment
on the main jet assembly in this drawing , is labeled the power, or high speed,
adjustment, main adjust needle, or needle valve.

period when both circuits flow. A high-speed mixture adjusting

needle is almost always present.
Because large amounts of fuel are needed during cold starts,
carburetors incorporate a s tarting system to enrich the mixture.
In most instances, a choke plate is mounted just behind the air
cleaner. When closed, the choke blocks air entry into the carburetor

68
bore and , at the same time, encourages fuel flow by subjecting high-
speed and low-speed circuits to a partial vacuum. Some foreign
designs use a starting jet, which is merely a large orifice that is
opened to provide additional fuel. A few American carburetors use
a primer pump to squirt raw gasoline into the cylinder for starting.
Whether supplied by gravity or a fuel pump, more gasoline is
available to the carburetor than the engine can burn. Consequently,
carburetors employ some means of internal fuel regulation. Most
often this is achieved by a float-controlled inlet valve-reminiscent
of a toilet tank float-that opens to admit fuel as the engine requires
it. In some instances, a diaphragm-triggered by pressure
fluxuations in the engine crankcase-substitutes for the float. But
not all carburetor diaphragms are used to regulate internal fuel
levels. In many cases the diaphragm is the active element of a fuel
pump and a float or a second diaphragm regulates the carburetor
fuel level.

TYPES
Carburetors can be conveniently divided into three groups on
the basis of hardware used to maintain internal fuel level.

Suction-lift
Single-cylinder utility engines are often fitted with suction-lift
carburetors that are mounted on the fuel tank and pick up fuel
through a standpipe. Figures 3-2 and 3-3 illustrate Briggs &
Stratton, and Clinton types.
Regardless of manufacturer, these carburetors are s imilar in
design and can develop similar problems, including:

• Loose flange screws. The carburetor and gasoline tank is

secured to the engine with two screws that can vibrate loose and
cause an air leak at the flange gasket. If the problem is chronic,
replace the flange gasket and secure the screws with Loc-tite or
a similar product.
• Leaks at the fuel tank/carburetor body interface. Remove
the tank, check for cracks radiating out from the screw holes, and
replace as necessary.

Warning: Do not attempt to solder or otherwise repair this

or any other fuel tank.

69
 METERI NG HO LES

CHOK E- ~ ,

THROTTLE

Fig. 3-2. Briggs & Stratton suction lift carburetor. Because this design employs
a single mixture adjustment (labeled " needle valve"), the mixture tends to be
slightly rich when adjusted for maximum power and smooth acceleration . In
addition, this and other suction-lift carburetors may " hunt" when operated under
no load at light and mid throttle.

• Sticking choke-corrosion and carbon buildup can cause

Briggs & Stratton plug-type chokes to bind. Free with Gum-out or
an equivalent product.
• Stuck check ball-the result of stale fuel. Replace the inlet
pipe, twisting it counterclockwise to remove. Install a new pipe and
integral check va lve to the same depth as the original.
• Loose expansion plug (Clinton)-replace plastic plug.

Generally, the carburetor can be cleaned on the engine by

removing the needle valve, spring, lock nut and o-rings. The jet
will now be visible and can be opened with compressed air or with
a soft bristle. Immersion in commercial carburetor solvent is not
recom mended .

Suction Lift (Fuel Pump)

Briggs & Stratton took suction lift technology a step fur ther
with the development of the " Pulsa-Jet" (Fig. 3-4). The carburetor
feeds from a small chamber in the top of the fuel tank, which is
replenished by the pump pipe. In this way, fuel available to the

70
 4
1- IDLE ASSEMBLY, INCLUDING ADJUSTMENT
SCREW, SPRING . AND REMOVABLE JET

2- FUEL INTAKE PIPE WITH INTEGRAL

CHECK VALVE

3- CHOKE PLATE
4- CHOKE SHAFT

5- HIGH SPEED ASSEMBLY, INCLUDING

ADJUSTMENT SCREW AND SPRING (JET IS
3 INTEGRAL WITH CARBURETOR BODY)

6- THROTTLE LEVER

7-IDLE RPM ADJUSTMENT SCREW

Fig. 3-3. One of three Clinton suction lift designs. One type does not have a low speed mixture adjustment and is not intended to run at
speeds below 3000 rpm . Another type employs a plastic expansion plug in the throttle body that must be inspected for air leaks and which
must not be exposed to commercial carburetor cleaner. The type shown is the most sophisticated , employing separate low-speed and high-
-....J speed adjustment screws.
.....
 SPRI NG CUP OLD HEW
CUPS

COVER

SHORT
CARBURETOR
LONG PUMP PIPE
PIPE

8=;9-- BOTTOM HOUSI NG

Fig. 3-4. The " Pulsa-Jet", a suction-lift carburetor with integral fuel pump, is
manufactured in two styles. Note the elegant simplicity of design that makes
it the most reliable of small-engine carburetors.

carburetor is always at a constant level. There are three things to

remember about these carburetors:

• Unless the fuel tank is topped up, the engine will have to
be cranked a few times on initial startup to fill the carburetor feed
chamber.
• Failure to deliver fuel can almost always be cured by
replacing the diaphragm.
• Replace any old style cups that might be encountered with
the new type shown in Fig. 3-4.

72
Float Types
Float carburetors are by far the most popular type and are found
on a wide variety of utility and high-performance engines. The ma-

F L OA T & L E V ER I
ASSY. -- -

- B ODY

-~ - r.:_ t
J
ID L E ST OP
L EVE R
THR OTTLE
I
SHA FT

!)
a
J. --
MA IN AD JUS T
N EEDLE

Fig. 3-5. Downdraft carburetor used on Onan CCK/CCKA twin-cylinder engines.

As is traditional with downdraft designs, the main jet empties into a nozzle
that lies athwart the air stream . Holes in nozzle aerate fuel before discharge
for more consistent vaporization and better response to sudden throttle open-
ing . Throttle shaft bushing indicates that the carburetor is intended for long
service and repairability. Throttle shaft and bushing should be replaced when
side play exceeds 0.008-0.010 of an inch.

73
"'
.::..
FILTER HEAD - ~

FUEL f 0
e
'
BOWL
ASSEMB L Y N ~@ ~ \ ! ----A IR INTAKE ASSEMBL y

,\b---1..\~,r~
e
·~o
O
G •

• -....-.--
~ -;7
FUEL INL ET
NEEDLE & SEAT

~~o ~I DISCHARGE ~/
.,
8
/JET ~ / AUTa--lATIC
- - - - CHOKE
~
VENTURI--.._~
'
, j
0 \

~
FLOAT ......._~ ,,_, ~~
=it
. ~w-
®~ ~
~~
~ U@e .,
~
w

NEED~\_..
• SEAT ~ '-.MAIN FUEL
NEEDLE

~ - - - - BO WL GASKET

MODEL 28
 MAIN FUEL AIR HORN

/"'"' /
ASSEMBLY

i FUEL INLET
/NEEDLE & SEAT
! /JET
I DLE FUEL
FUEL
fJ FLOAT BOWL
~ / i , _, / ASS£MBLY

~
Q mJJ/N
OZZL[
b i~~y
IDLE FUEL NEEDLE / ~ 6 :
~
..,.
~

MODEL 228

Fig. 3-6. The automotive heritage of Zenith small engine carburetors can be seen from these examples fitted to Kohler K662 twin-cylinder
industrial engines. Model 28 employs a removable venturi, or air flow restriction , an integral filter, and an automatic choke that could have
been bui lt by Rochester. Low-speed mixture adjustment is on the air intake assembly or, as it is commonly called, the float bowl cover. The
more usual arrangement is for this adjustment to be close by low-speed discharge port adjacent to the throttle plate. Model 228 has the idle
--..J mixture control, or idle fuel needle, in the customary location . The throttle body assembly is common to both carburetors and is not intended
01 to be dismantled for cleaning or repair. When the throttle plate shaft is worn, the assembly must be replaced as a unit.
jor limitation of this design is that the float chamber must be kept
approximately level. Consequently, these carburetors are not used
on chain saws, snowmobiles, and other equipment subject to
changes in attitude.
Float-type carburetors fall into three classifications on the basis
of mixture delivery. Downdraft carburetors receive air from the top,
mix fuel in the central section, and deliver the mixture through the
mounting flange at the bottom (Figs. 3-5 and 3-6). While almost
universal on automobiles, application of this design to small engines
is limited to multicylinder, horizontally opposed types. Updraft
carburetors reverse the architecture just described. Air enters from
the bottom of the instrument, mixes with fuel in the central section,
and is expelled through the top. Figure 3-7 shows a typical design
in cutaway view.
The Flo-Jet is one of the most reliable small engine carburetors,
but it does have certain idiosyncrasies. Unless the engine starts
almost immediately, gasoline will dribble from the air cleaner
mounting boss. This condition is normal and is not to be taken as
prima facie evidence of severe flooding. T he main jet adjustment,
called "needle valve," is quite sensitive but response is slow. Make
a small adjustment, turning the thumb screw a fraction of a turn

=yo-=
CHOKE VALVE

Fig. 3-7. Flo-Jet in cutaway view. In Briggs & Stratton nomenclature, this is
a " two-piece" carburetor because it consists of two castings, the upper or throt-
tle body and the lower or carburetor body.

76
and wait a few seconds for the instrument to respond. The fuel
nozzle extends into the throttle body casting. Upon dis.assembly ,
the throttle body must be moved diagonally to disengage the nozzle.
And finally , overtightening throttle body screws can distort the
casting and cause fuel leaks around the gasket at the top of the
float chamber. Correct by ren1oving the throttle body and carefully
straightening the distorted corners with a brass pin or miniature
ball-peen hammer.
Side-draft carburetors are by far the most popular with
applications that range from vertical crankshaft lawnmowers to
snowmobiles. Parts arrangement is horizontal. Fuel mixing takes
place in the central section above the float chamber. Figure 3-8
illustrates a typical example.
There are several things a mechanic should be aware of when
dealing with the LMG and its kin: the float bowl gasket fit is crucial
and new gaskets must usually be stretched like a rubber band before
the gasket will cover the full diameter of the float bowl lip. Do not
remove the fuel nozzle without a replacement part in hand. Walbro
nozzles are cross-drilled after assembly to open a fuel passage to
the idle circuit. It is almost impossible to realign this drilling-upon
assembly and the engine, starved for fuel at low speed, will refuse
to idle. Replacement nozzles, illustrated in the lower right of Fig.
3-8, have an angular groove that accommodates misalignment. The
float drain may develop leaks and should be replaced as part of
carburetor overhaul. If the bottom of the float bowl is rusted, how-
ever, the bowl must also be replaced.
Most s ide-draft carburetors use a pivoted throttle plate to
regulate air-fuel delivery and engine speed. Some Japanese and
•
European designs employ a throttle slide for the same purpose (Fig.
3-9). In the usual configuration, the throttle slide incorporates a
tapered needle, which partially obstructs the main jet. As the slide
retracts out of the carburetor bore to admit more air, the needle
moves out of the jet, allowing more fuel to flow. At wide-open
throttle, all that obstructs the carburetor bore is the needle.
Mechanics should remember that most piston slide carburetors
regulate the low speed mixture strength by means of the air supply.
Tightening the low speed mixture screw richens the mixture. The
throttle piston is accessible after the piston cap and choke assembly
are removed . Exercise care to see that dirt does not enter the pis-
ton bore and gently extract the piston. The metering pin is
vulnerable and, once bent, will accelerate wear on the main nozzle.
Lean running seems to be the main complaint with this type of

77
 ,, ,,
,,
9 I

! - -- ...,
8
'- - - -..J

Fig. 3-8. Walbro LMG side draft, float-type carburetor. This very popular design
is used by Clinton, together with almost identical LBM and LMV varieties, and
by Tecumseh . (Courtesy Clinton Engines Corp.)

78
 11

29~
28 ~

1. Piston Cap Nut

27
0
18. Bowl Gasket
2. Piston Cap and Choke 19. Float
Assembly 20. Float Leve r Pivot Screw
3. Metering P in Reta ine r Clip 21. Float Lever
4. Mete ring P in 22. Float Valve
5. Throttle Piston 23. Float P in Lock Ring
6. Throttle Piston Spring 24. Float Pin Spring
7. Control Coil Adjusting Screw 25. Float Pin
8. Control Coil Adjusting Nut 26. Body
9. Choke Rod Hairpin Spring 27. Main Nozzle Cap
10 . Intake Pipe Clamp Screw 28. Washe r
11. Intake Pipe Clamp 29. High Speed Jet
12. Gas Straine r Cap 30. Main Nozzle
13. Gas Line Fitting 31. Low Speed Jet
14. Gas Strainer Gasket (2) 32. Throttle P iston Stop Sc rew
15. Gas Strainer 33. Throtlle Piston Stop Scr ew Nut
16. Bowl Cover Screw and 34. Low Speed Needle Valve
Washer (2) 35. Low Speed Needle Valve Spring
17. Bowl Cove r

Fig. 3-9 . This piston slide Del'Orto is typical of European motorbike practice
and similar to a number of Japanese designs. The example shown was fitted
to Harley-Davidson M-100 and M-125 bikes imported from Italy a few years
back . The carburetor employs a cannister float, adjustable metering pin (or
needle) , replaceable high-speed and low-speed jets and a float pin. The last
item , somewhat quaintly called a " tickler" by the English, is used to depress
the float and flood the carburetor when other starting techniques fail.

79
carburetor, and on two-cycle applications, is often the fault of
leaking crankshaft seals. Another possibility is extreme wear on
the throttle piston and bore, which allows air to enter around the
cap nut.
Float-type carburetors typically fail by flooding. This condition
causes hard starting (if the engine is warm), and black smoke from
the exhaust. In extreme and hazardous form, fuel escaping from
the flooding results from:

• Wear on the inlet needle and seat.

• Dirt between the needle and seat (which sometimes can be
dislodged by a s harp rap on the float cover).
• Improperly adjusted float level.
• Damaged float or float hinge.

Diaphragm Types
Diaphragm carburetors are conventional side-draft designs
except that a diaphragm, rather than a float, is used to regulate
the amount of fuel admitted to the instrument. The primary
advantage of this arrangement is that the carburetor will continue
to meter fuel when tilted at large angles off the horizontal. This
is a useful attribute for chain saws, snowmobiles, motorbikes and,
according to some designers, lawnmowers. Fuel cannot spill out
of the instrument and, in absence of a float and float chamber, the
design package is compact.
The crankcase is basically a sealed container. On four-cycle
engines, it is partially filled with oil and somewhat tardily vented
through the crankcase breather. Crankcase pressure fluxuates as
the piston moves. On the downstroke pressure increases and on
the upstroke it diminishes.
The frequency of pressure variations depends upon engine rpm
and, as a consequence, can be used to control fuel delivery through
the carburetor. Most diaphragm carburetors respond to negative,
or low-pressure, crankcase pulses to momentarily open the fuel inlet
valve. The type shown in Fig. 3-10 is typical of most applications.
The more complex T illotson model (shown in Fig. 3-11) employs
both positive, or high pressure, and negative pulses. Positive pulses
operate the fuel pump diaphragm on the bottom of the instrument
that supplies fuel to the regulating diaphragm. The diaphragm then
admits fuel to the carburetor circuits in response to negative
pressure fluxuations.

80
 THROTTLE SH AFT - -
'!-~~
_ _ _ CHOKE
THROT TLE PLATE .-HA SHAFT

~ {I ,, ,)
IDLE FUEL CHAMBER 0.-- :, /FUEL INLET

' ~ iJ.
WELCH PLUG~ ~,. ,, .,. W--BODY
IDLE ADJUSTING- e f
SCREW )p"'*"o.,
~:i/,, f:1 1
FLAT

HI GH SPEED
ADJUSTING SCREW
____.,..ef RINGS/
• CH ECK BALL c
I CHOKE
PLATE

WELCH PLUG i
• 1NLET NEEDLE AND SEAT~,
NOTE
SEQUENCE MAY
*GASKET--~ BE REVERSED
~~
RIVET HEAD TOWARDS
INLET NEEDLE - - - - - ,~ ~
• DI AP HRAG M
COVER--~ ,:--_
~ ,
.,
fl
·IN DICATES PARTS THAT CAN BE DAMAGED
BY HARSH CARBURETOR CLEANERS

Fig. 3-10. The Tecumseh carburetor in exploded view .

The theory is a bit complex but a close look at Fig. 3-10 will
help clarify matters. The neophrene diaphragm divides the
diaphragm chamber into two parts. The upper part contains the
inlet valve, which consists of a spr1ng-loaded needle and seat. Fuel,
impelled by gravity or by a remote pump, enters the upper half
of the diaphragm chamber when the needle is raised. T his part of
the chamber also communicates to the crankcase by means of a
port which passes through the carburetor body and mounting flange.
The lower part of the chamber is dry and vented to the atmosphere
by a small hole visible in the part labeled "cover."

81
 I

...

J
co
N

82
 40
21
31 . 0.
.;;·_:. · -. ~' "·.~,tl!f'T 1 /
'
. .·. ./ . •. ', .
l • • • \
--~ ··/o ·
' I

. . ·.·' ·,:··-:·~-- . ; o,
.-....,;-~;·:p ...
o .! :·• . ., -·.. -. . ·,
.,_:, . , .. ~ . '0
' . .
I

39

33

~?/>\\?. ?1'?., $
¥,..\,
34

Fig . 3-11 . Tilloston HL series dual diaphragm design integrates carburetor and fuel pump functions on a Chrysler West Bend engine. This
and similar Bendix models are used on chain saws, go-karts, and other two-cycle applications where compactness and ability to run at large
~ angles off the horizontal are important.
 LL US. DESCRIPTION
>JO. QTY.

I Carburetor gasket
2 Th rot de shutter
3 Order complete ca rburetor
4 Thro tt le shaft slip
5 Clip lockw asher
6 Cl ip retai ning screw
7 Ch o ke sh a lt a nti lever
8 Choke shu uer
y ·I Shut ter sc rew
10 I Choke friction pin
11 Choke friction , pring
12 Inl et sea t gaske t
13 Inl et n eedle. sea t ,rntl gaskc c
14 I In let contro l le\'er
15 I I nlc t tension spring
IG Noale check valve
17 \ Vetch plug
18 Drain scre w
19 Thro ttle shaft return ~pring
20 2 Adjustm ent screw packin g
21 2 Adjustm ent screw wa she r
22 2 A'<ljustment screw ,p ring
23 Control lever pinion ,crew
24 Throul e shalt anti lever
25 Idl e adj ustment suew
26 Main adjustment screw
27 Gaske t set
28 Idle speed regulating ,crew
29 Idle speed regulating ,c1ew spr ing
30 Diaphragm gasket
31 Diaphragm
32 Diaphragm cover
33 I Repair pans k it
3-1 6 Bocly screw a nd lockwasher
;!5 Strainer cover screw
3G Strainer cover
37 Strainer cover gas ket
38 Strainer screen
39 fuel pump body
40 F uel pump diaphragm
-11 I Fuel pump gasket
J Throttle shaft arm (n o t shown)

Parts listing for Fig. 3- 11 .

84
 The ten commandments of this carburetor are: (1) replace the
diaphragm and gasket after wet storage or whenever hard start-
ing is a problem; (2) note that relationship between diaphragm and
gasket shown in drawing is reversed on some models; (3) assemble
diaphragm with rivet head-the round part, not the splayed s hank-
up; (4) inspect inlet needle and seat for contamination; (5) replace
needle and seat in event of persistent flooding, visible wear or if
needle tip is bent; (6) replace the seat with the aid of a six-point
9/32-inch socket, with its OD reduced by grinding; (7) some models
incorporate a check ball in the high speed circuit.
If the ball and seat are replaceable, a welch plug will be
present in the carburetor body above the diaphragm and adjacent
to the high-speed adjustment screw ; (8) inlet fitting is pressed into
place and has an integral screen. If screen cannot be cleaned, extract
fitting by holding it in a vise and cautiously twisting. Replace inlet
fitting with a new part, positioning the fitting end for fuel line
hookup; (9) atmospheric vent hole must be open in diaphragm cover;
(10) wisdom dictates that harsh chemical cleaners should not be
used because check ball, elastomer check valve in plastic inlet fitting
(used on models with primer pumps} could be damaged.
When the engine is stopped, the diaphragm is relaxed and does
not contact the extended needle tip. Consequently, the needle
remains seated and no fuel flows past it. During cranking negative
pressure pulses, generated on the piston upstrokes, stretch the
diaphragm upward, unseating the needle. Fuel flows into the upper
half of the diaphragm chamber and into the carburetor circuitry.
If for some reason the engine does not start, the diaphragm
can be gently pushed upward by inserting a match stick through
the cover vent. This unseats the needle and fills the upper part of
the diaphragm chamber with gasoline.
Diaphragm carburetors arrived relatively late on the small-
engine scene and share some of the characteristics of modern
e ngineering. When they work, they work exceedingly well and
allow a sharper tune and provide more power than most earlier
types. But these carburetors are temperamental and demand a
certain tolerance from mechanics. In rough order of frequency,
problems a re:

• Failed diaphragm , not always apparent under visual

inspection. Replace diaphragm whenever hard starting or persis-
tent fuel starvation occurs.
• Contamination by rust particles and other solids in the fuel,

85
 which generally collects on the inlet screen (when fitted), needle
and seat or in the low-speed circuit.
• Poor response to mixture adjustment controls, caused by
forcibly seating adjustment screws into their jets. The Tillotson,
whose operation is discussed above, can be assembled with high
speed and idle adjusting screws interchanged. Screw tapers differ
and the tip of the high-speed screw can break off in the low-speed
jet. The inlet control lever, shown in Fig. 3-1 1 can be bent by rough
handling and upset fuel metering.
Diaphragm carburetors are also adapted to Briggs & Stratton
engines for junior-class kart racing, where power output is valued
more than mechanical simplicity. From a mechanic's point of view,
the car buretor diaphr agm (31) is the most vulnerable part, followed
by the inlet control lever (14). The lever should be replaced upon
any sign of wear at the point where it touches the inlet needle. In
addition, the lever must be parallel with the diaphragm housing
as shown in the inset (Fig. 3-11). Correct any misalignment by
carefully bending the inlet needle side of the lever wh.ile the lever
is disassembled. Do not apply bending force to the needle that could
deform the elastomer inlet seat and result in flooding. Nozzle check
valve (16) malfunctions usually result in hesitant acceleration and
poor mixture control. Draw down the six capscrews that secure fuel
pump body (39) with extreme care, tightening in a criss-cross fash-
ion. Failure to do this can wrinkle one or both diaphragms.

ADJUSTMENTS
High-s peed mixture adjustment possibilities are as
follows:

• Nonadjustable, nonreplaceable main jet, no adjustment

possible.
• Nonadjustable, replaceable main jet, adjustment possible
if alternate jets are available.
• Threaded adjustment needle, adjustment range from zero
flow to flooded.
• Throttle slide adjustments, a special case discussed later.

Nonadjustable and nonreplaceable main jets are encountered,

but most manufacturers make provision for the jet to be replaced
with one of a larger or smaller orifice diameter. Replaceable main
jets are commonly found on outboard motors to make adjustment

86
possible while, at the same time, discouraging amateur attempts
at tuning.
Threaded adjustment needles, used in conjunction with fixed
or replaceable jets, are the norm and are illusrated throughout this
chapter. The main jet needle, or screw as it is sometimes called,
is usually located near the throttle plate on the carburetor body or
else it is centered below the float bow.
Low-speed mixture adjustment devolves into these
possibilities:

• Nonadjustable nonreplaceable jet, no adjustment.

• Threaded adjustment needle, with adjustment range from
flooding to no flow.

Gasoline engines, particularity the small ones, do not like to

idle. Very few carburetors have been n1ade without provision for
low-speed mixture adjustment. Most notable among these have
been the sheet-metal Clinton suction-lift carburetor (for an engine
that is not intended to operate below 3000 rpm), several versions
of Tecumseh Craftsman carburetors, and the Lawnboy modular
unit.
Other carburetors have such an adjustment that is almost
always in the form of a tapered screw threaded into the carburetor
body near the throttle plate. With exception of most piston slide
carburetors, this screw controls fuel flow through the jet.
Tightening the screw reduces the amount of fuel passing through
the jet orifice and cleans the mixture.
Idle rpm adjustment is typically in the form of a spring-
loaded screw that prevents the throttle from shutting off all fuel
and air to the engine. Tightening the screw increases idle rpm.
Carburetor adjustment is a tune-up procedure and-unless the
carburetor has been tampered with-should not be crucial for start-
ing. The basic drill for diaphragm and float types with two mixture
control screws and a conventional (pivoted) throttle is as follows:

1. Determine that the engine is in good tune, with ignition

system functioning normally, diaphragm and float types, two
mixture control screws, conventional, pivoted, throttle plate, and
air filter services, and (when appropriate) float is set properly.

As shown in the Fig. 3-12, Tab A is the most crucial and

87
 Tab " B" / T a b "A"
"
0

Float
Tab " A "
0
I
11/ 64"
t

(Inverted Carburetor)

e
I 1-1 / 32"

l
..
"' Float

l
. v ·~ ·'j
' .• .., . . . . .I ..
, • ,•. '
-\ ...

.... .
• ·::·: ,).' I" • ·,
•',I,, ;,, •
. : ··,··.
~\:.. .. ~ .. -~-
; . ,_
I '1 •

·. -
' .. ·····' ~,: :.·' ::,
• , •, ;

, ~
I,
,, ;,·,··.: '. ":'
,, ,
;:,\\• I
··.·:.
........
!",:.~ .: : /:· .:. ·.. .t ~ : ;_;:_...)? ." 1- 5/64"
., •••c. . ··., •'. , ......; ... (• .::!'
... ... . : .

I·

Fig. 3-12. Most floats incorporate two adjustment tabs.

88
controls float height. This adjustment is made by assembling float
over needle and seat and inverting carbur etor body (B). Exact
adjustment varies carburetor 1nake, model and application. How-
ever, as a general rule, the float should be parallel with carburetor
body casting. Do not force the float into the needle and seat when
bending tab. The second adjustment, controlled by tab B, is less
critical (C). Lower edge of the float should not drop below main
nozzle casting and should remain \vell clear of float bowl. Tillotson
Model E float follows the general float height rule and is adjusted
correctly when float parallels inverted carburetor body (0). Other
carburetors employ an adjustment screw instead of tab A and some
include a window or drain plug on float body so actual fuel level
can be determined.

2. Crank the engine. If it does not start after several tries,

lightly seat high-speed and low-speed mixture screws. Do not force
these needles home: to do so will invite the kind of damage shown
in Fig. 3-13 and destroy any hope of fine tuning. Back off both
mixture controls about one full turn. The specification varies with
carburetor type, but one turn from lightly seated should pass enough
fuel for the engine to start.
3. Allow the engine to reach stable operating temperature.
The choke must be full open.
4. With the throttle plate slightly more than half open, back
off the high-speed mixture control screw in small increments,

BAD

GOOD

Fig. 3-13. Worn needles make accurate adjustment impossible.

89
pausing a few seconds between each adjustment. When the (fuel)
rich limit is reached, engine rpm will falter and puffs of black smoke
will issue from the exhaust. Two-cycle engines will " four stroke,"
that is, fire with a loud bang, miss on one revolution , and bang again.
5. Note position of screw at rich limit and, working in small
increments, tighten the screw past the region of smooth running
and to the point where rpm builds, hovers, and drops. This is lean
roll, representing the least amount of fuel that will maintain
combustion. Note the position of the screw.
6. Open the adjustment screw to the midpoint between lean
roll and rich limit.
7. Close the throttle and adjust the low speed mixture control
screw for fastest idle. It n1ight be necessary to change the ad-
justment of the idle rpm screw.
8. Low-speed and high-speed adjustments are to some degree
interdependent. Open the throttle as before and adjust the high-
speed screw for best rpm. Drop the throttle back to idle and recheck
the low speed adjustment.
9. With the engine idling, open the throttle quickly.
Caution: Utility engines-particularly those with splash
lubrication-require a minimum 1600 rpm idle speed to assure oil
circulation. This speed should be set with a tachometer.

10. Should the engine hesitate, open the high-speed needle 1/8
turn and retest until acceleration is rapid and smooth. This is an
approximation of the true adjustment, even if the mixture is
somewhat rich at high, no-load speeds.
11. The high-speed mixture can be fine-tuned by making final
adjustments under load.

For single mixture control screw, typical of suction-lift

carburetors, follow the first three steps, substitute the following
three s teps, and then continue.

4. With the throttle half open, adjust the single mixture screw
for best rpm. Some slow rise and fall of engine speed may be
apparent.
5. Close the throttle to a fast (1600 rpm) idle and, using your
fingers, flip it open rapidly. If the e ngine s tubles, back off the
mixture screw 1/8 turn and repeat the acceleration test.
6. The correct adjustment may give an overly rich idle, but
that is a design limitation, not easily corrected.

90
 Throttle Slide Types . These carburetors theoretically have
six adjustment points, each with its own domain across the range
of throttle movement. However, parts ava ilabil ity and common
sense reduce adjustments to three.
Remove the air filter and any plumbing that obstructs the view
down the carburetor bore. Adjustment points are described as
follows.

• Idle adjustment screw, present on all carburetors and

bearing against the lower face of the throttle slide. The higher the
slide is raised the faster the engine idles.
• Low speed mixture screw, present on all carburetors,
located near the throttle slide and often regulates air (rather than
fuel) flow. When this is the case, tightening the screw enriches the
mixture between closed and 1/8 open throttle (A of Fig . 3-14).
• Cutaway, milled on the edge of the slide throttle to drive
air into the bore. Increasing the angle of the cutaway leans the
mixture between 1/8 and 1/4 throttle (B of Fig. 3-14). While all
carburetors have such a cutaway, changing the factory adjustment
depends upon parts availability and is rarely done.
• Fuel needle setting, or distance the needle extends below
the throttle slide. Needle is usually grooved a nd secured to slide
with a spring clip. Raising the needle, obscures less of the high
speed jet and provides a richer mixture at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle (C of
Fig. 3-14). Needles can sometimes be obtained with different tapers.
• High speed jet diameter controls mixture strength between
3/4 and wide open throttle (D of Fig. 3-14). Unless the engine has
been extensively modified or is operated at high altitudes, a jet
change is normally not required .

Troubleshooting
Although design differences always intrude, carburetors
operate on the same general principles and the same broad
troubleshooting procedures apply. Combustion chamber flooding,
shown by a wet spark plug tip, can develop w hen the engine does
not start after persistent cranking. The cause of the difficulty is
usually in the ignition system (although improper carburetor
settings can contribute).
Chamber flooding will usually clear of its own accord by waiting
20 minutes or so for the surplus gasoline to evaporate. Cranking
with the throttle and choke wide open might help restarting, but

91
 THROTTLE OPENING
BETWEEN
0-1/8

THROTTLE OPENING
BETWEEN
1/8-1/4

THROTTLE OPENING
BETWEEN
1/4--3/4

THROTTLE OPENING
BETWEEN
3/4--1

e
Fig . 3-14. Black, fluffy carbon deposits on a spark plug tip indicate an overly
rich fuel-air mixture . (Courtesy of Kohler Co.)

the quickest fix is to change or dry the spark plug and boost
magneto voltage. This is done by holding the spark plug wire 3/8
of an inch from the spark plug terminal and cranking. The air gap
thus created wrings all available voltage from the ignition system.
Carburetor flooding is entirely another matter and can occur

92
as soon as gasoline is introduced into the instrument. Fuel dribbles
through the float bowl vent and, depending upon design, from the
carburetor throat. This condition is hazardous; until corrected, do
not attempt to start the engine.
Carburetor flooding is most often caused by a failure of the
needle and seat to make a leak-proof seal. Sometimes a bit of dirt
is the culprit. Nevertheless, it is always good practice to replace
both parts of the inlet valve. Float-type carburetors can also flood
because of a punctured, binding, or maladjusted float.
Fue l S tarvation. Zero fuel delivery is easy to diagnose on
a cold engine because the spark plug tip remains resolutely dry after
prolonged cranking. Heroic efforts may oil the tip, but the
characteristic odor of gasoline will be absent. Hot-engine diagnosis
is more difficult because the spark plug tip usually remains dry.
If there is fuel delivery, however, it should be possible to flood the
chamber by cranking with the choke closed.
Stoppages most often develop upstream of the carburetor where
flow pressure and velocity are low. Inspect screens at the tank and
carburetor fittings, fuel filters, and fuel pump. Pump failure is al-
most always a diaphragm failure , although mechanical, automotive-
type fuel pumps employ suction and discharge-side check valves
that seem especially vulnerable to dirt. Another point to remember
is that an upstream fuel line air leak can rob the pump of its prime.
As far as the carburetor is concerned, stoppages tend to be
associated with the internal fuel-level mechanism. The check ball
in suction-lift carburetor pickup tubes might stick in the closed
position, the float might hang closed and, of course, the diaphragm
could go haywire.
Obstructions in internal circuits are fairly rare, but can occur
if the engine is stored without draining the tank and carburetor.
A massive air leak at the mounting flange gasket can also deny
fuel to the engine, but this condition is quite obvious because a leak
of this magnitude implies that the carburetor jitters on its mounts.
The ultimate cause might be a bent crankshaft.
Refus al to Idle. Assuming that the problem originates in the
carburetor and is not a symptom of the throttle, governor, or ignition
timing maladjustment, the cause is partial fuel starvation. Check
for an obstruction in the low speed circuit and for a vacuum leak
downstream of the throttle.
Low-speed circuit obstructions can often be cleared by
removing the low-speed mixturt: control needle and gently opening
the low-speed jet with a broom straw . Do not use wire, a drill bit,

93
or other hard object that can score the jet and change its flow cali-
bration. Compressed air will work when the jet is not visible from
the vantage point of the mixture screw or when the obstruction is
upstream of the jet.
I ntake vacuum leaks-that is, leaks on the engine side of the
throttle plate-are almost always confined to the carburetor
mounting flange. Check the flange bolt tightness and gasket
condition. Some engines are fitted with vacuum-operated
accessories that might develop leaks and increase idle rpm .
As mentioned earlier, Walbro carburetors employ a cross-
drilled main fuel nozzle. If this nozzle is disturbed , cross-drilled
holes no longer index with the idle circuit and no fuel will pass .
Repair by replacing the original nozzle with the undercut version
that provides fuel-no matter how assembled.
Rich Running. Symptons of this malady are:
• Black smoke in exhaust.
• Soot on spark plug tip that will extend to inside of exhaust
pipe (Fig. 3-14).
• Lack of power.
• Four-stroking with two-cycle engines.

Three conditions can cause rich running. The firs t and most
common is too high an internal fuel level in the carburetor. This
may be caused by a maladjusted float level, a fuel-sodden float
(whether of plastic or brass construction), a sticking float (usually
caused by too much float drop}, a leaking inlet needle and seat and,
fo r Tillotson diaphragm carburetors , a worn or bent diaphragm
lever.
The second cause is mixture control maladjustment. This is
remedied as described in the " Adjustments" section.
The third possibility is an air obstruction upstream of the
throttle. T est the air cleaner by removing it while the engine is
running. Some rpm increase might be experienced on utility engines
because of designed-in restrictions, but rpm should not increase
more than 100 rpm or so. A pronounced speed increase means that
the filter element needs cleaning or replacement. It is also possible
for the choke to pull into engagement on some designs, particularly
if choke attenuation is automatic.
Lean Running. This condition has these symptoms:
• High cylinder head temperatures, shown by whitis h spark
plug tip (Fig. 3-15).

94
Fig. 3-15. White insulator, or rip, means dangerously high combustion-chamber
temperatures, most often caused by an overly lean fuel-air mixture. (Courtesy
of Kohler Co.)

• Lean roll, or a slow falling and building of engine rpm .

• Lack of power.
• Carburetor spit-back as the throttle is opened suddenly.
• Engine might pick up rpm with choke partially closed.

Lean running resolves into insufficient fue l or excessive air.

Insufficient fuel delivery can usually be corrected as described in
the " Adjustments" section. If this does not help , check the float
adjustment and condition of Tillotson diaphragm lever. Massive
air leaks downstream of the throttle can also cause this difficulty.
Check the carburetor mounting flange surface and, on two-cycle
engines, the condition of the main bearing seals.

Cleaning and Repair

Lacquer thinner is an ad~quate solvent for routine carburetor
cleaning. More severe cases respond to Gunk Carburetor Cleaner-
available from auto parts stores in pint containers-and very
corroded carburetors need something on the order of Bendix Econo-
Cleane. While Gunk seems fairly benign, Bendix rapidly attacks
plastic and rubber parts and , upon several days immersion, leaches
zinc castings.

95
 When powerful chemicals are used, the carburetor must be
disassembled far enough to remove plastic and other soft parts. Do
not, in the normal course of events, disturb throttle plates, welch
(expansion) plugs, or pressed-in fuel inlet fittings. Grind
screwdrivers to fit jet and inlet seat slots.
The process goes something like this:

1. Obtain a carburetor overhaul kit that should contain all

necessary replacement parts and instructions. Some kits include
float-level gauges.
2. Remove the carburetor from the engine. Note how the
governor link and related springs are attached to the throttle le-
ver; adjust screw positions from closed.
3. Clean external carburetor surfaces.
4. Work on a clean bench, laying out parts 1n order of
disassembly. Refer to drawing in overhaul kit.
5. Immerse semi-stripped carburetor body, jets and other
metallic parts in cleaner for at least 30 min.
6. Rinse cleaner from parts as instructed on label.
7. Assemble unit, using kit parts.

Needle and Seat. A few carburetors s till use metallic needle

and seat assembles, but the tendency now is to substitute plastic
for one or both of these parts. Figure 3-16 shows recent and current
Walbro types, both with elastometer-tipped needles with brass
seats. Forcing the needle into the seat, as when making float
adjustments, could permanently deform the needle tip and result
in a fuel leak.
Figure 3-17 depicts another Walbro type that features a Viton
seat and plastic needle. The old seat is extracted with a hooked
wire and the new seat is pressed into place with its ringed s ide to-
ward the carburetor body. Lightly oiling the seat cavity aids
installation. Both the current brass seat design (shown on the right
of Fig. 3-16) and the Viton seat-type employ a float damper spring.
Figure 3-18 describes spring installation.
Briggs & Stratton elaston1er seats, used on Flo-Jet carburetors,
are removed with a self-tapping screw and installed using the
original seat as a ram. See Fig. 3-19. This seat must be flush with
its boss.
Throttle Shaft Bushings. Industrial-type engines employ
bushings at the throttle shaft that should be replaced , together with

96
 EARLY NEW

Fig. 3-16. Two Walbro needle and seat assembles. Note the float damper spring
shown on the right and discussed in captions with Figs. 3-18 and 3-19.

MAIN NOZZIF

~. "B• DAMAGED
:.- Replace
"A"
INSERT THIS ROUNDED
FACE FIRST EDGE

INLET SEAT
~ l~
A.OAT
MOUNTING
r.AVITY 8 GJ
INLET NEEDLE TIP
SEATS AT THIS POINT

Fig . 3- 17. Walbro carburetor with Viton seat.

97
 HOLD SLIGHT
SPfllNG TENSION
WITI4 THUMB

GASKET GOES
OYER SPfllNG

aiOKE ENO OF
CARBURETOR

ENOS OF SPfllNG
' - - POINT TOWARD
CHOKE END OF
CARBURETOR

Fig. 3-18. Assemble current Walbro carburetors with needle (hair)spring hanging
down and ends of float damper (coil) spring pointed at choke. Carefully place
coil spring between float hinges and assemble needle to float tab. Now wind
the coil spring back to put tension on it and install the float over the hinges,
securing the assembly with the hinge pin (A). Install the bowl gasket over the
hinge pin (B).

98
 SELF
THREADING
SCR EW

VISE

PRESS
FLUSH l

OLD
SEAT - + ~
:ffi)),»Hl)-)mn,_=~':1~U-JY
VISE 1.----"""1 ()
'-'":.£...):,J.~ - ~

Fig. 3-19. Elastomer seat in Briggs & Stratton Flo-Jet can be removed with
aid of self-tapping screw and vise (A). Install new seat flush with recess, using
original seat as ram (B).

99
the shaft, when side play exceeds 0.008-0.010 of an inch (Fig. 3-20).
The throttle plate may not be reversible and the choke side should
be scribe marked before detaching the plate from the throttle shaft.
(Some Walbro throttle plates have a reference mark at 12 and/or
3 o'clock.) Remove the old bushings with an appropriately sized
tap or Ease-Out-usually 1/4 inch- and press in new bus hings.
Ideally , bushings should be reamed, but this is not considered
absolutely necessary. Install a new throttle shaft and lightly tighten
the hold-down screw(s). Shut the throttle, centering the plate in the
carburetor bore. Tighten the screws, staking them if that is factory
practice. T est the throttle for possible binds.
Welch Plugs. Normally it is not a good idea to disturb welch,
or expansion, plugs used to seal large cavities in carburetor bodies.
But these plugs may develop leaks and sometimes must be removed
to access primer pump valves and other vulnerable parts. First,
make certain that you can obtain a replacement plug and then, using
a s mall capehart chisel, pierce the plug (Fig. 3-21A). Press down
on the chisel, prying the plug out of its recess. Ins tall a new plug-
convex side out-with a punch that has the same or slightly larger
diameter as the plug (B of Fig. 3-21). Seat the new plug with its
edges just shy of the carburetor casting surface. Avoid flattening
the plug because spring tension developed across plug convexity
maintains the seal. No chemical sealant is necessary or desirable.
Primer Pump. Some diaphragm and fl oat-type carburetors
employ a primer pump (rather than a choke valve) as a cold start-
ing aid. The pump bulb might be located at some distance from

FEELER GAUGE

(
Fig. 3-20. Throttle bushings are subject to fairly severe wear and should be
renewed when throttle shaft to bushing clearance is more than 0.008 of an
inch or so.

100
 SMAU CHISEl \.

/ PIERCE Pl.UG wmt TIP

PRY OUT Pl.UG { WELCH PI.UG

DO NOT ALLOW CHISEL ~ TO BE REMOVED
POINT TO STRIKE ---==~Oli/Zii:
CARBURETOR BODY ~ -
OR CHANNEL REDUCER
SMA
' Tu_\,._
CH_ISE
_ L_ _ ~,..___l. ABOUT 11r· WIDE
cl..l,.(_ _ _ ~c; ;.:._.JT

'-...._
FLAT-END PUNCH

NEW WELCH PI.UG

"¾::m, ::J.---,
- -- ~ SAME OR LARGER
DIAMmR OF PI.UG

Fig. 3-21 . Welch plugs are removed by first puncturing the plug with a chisel,
then levering it up and out (A). New plugs are seated to the depth shown with
a flat punch (B).

the carburetor or directly below it as an integral part of the fue l

bowl hold-down bolt. In either case, access is easy and obvious.
However , some designs incorporate the pump bulb on the side of
the main body casting, adjacent to the high speed fuel circuit.
Remove the pump bulb and retainer with main force (as shown in
Fig. 3-22).
Castings . 11ounting flanges are usually secured to the cylin-
der by two capscrews. Because the gas ket is thick and resilent,
overtightening the screws invariably distorts the casting. The gas-
ket surface can be restored with an Armstrong "surface mill." Tape
a sheet of medium-grit emory cloth to a piece of plate glass or a
drillpress work table and, using a circular motion, grind until the
gasket surface takes a uniform sheen.
Up-and-downdraft carburetor float bowl covers are also
vulnerable to distortion. Check cover-to-bowl clearance as shown
in Fig. 3-23 and correct by gently tapping casting "ears" with a
very s mall hammer.

101
 Fig. 3-22. In this configuration , the
primer bulb and retainer washer are
disposible items , removed as
shown. Install replacement parts us-
ing a 3/4-inch deep well socket as
a pilot.

AIR FILTERS
With the exception of outboard motors, most small engines are
equipped with an air filter. Two-cycle engines may employ a wire
mesh or composite fiber filter, which should routinely be cleaned
with kerosene and re-oiled. The " fuel fog" that hovers in front of
two-cycle carburetors is intended to keep the filter element wet and
working between service intervals.
A design weakness of most of these filters is the single-screw

Fig. 3-23. Check the float bowl cover casting fit with a 0.002-inch feeler gauge.
If the gauge will enter, remove the casting and straighten with light hammer taps.

102
mounting arrangement that vibrates loose in service, allowing grit
to enter the engine. Correct by securing the screw with red Lock-
tite or equivalent thread adhesive.
Industrial engines often employ centrifugal oil bath filters (Fig.
3-24). Air entering the top of the unit makes an S-turn that
centrifuges out heavy solids. The mesh, continuous ly wetted by
oil in the reservoir , traps smaller particles. These filters should be
clea ned in solvent and replenished with st raight-not
multigrade-30-weight motor oil. Overfilling or using a lighter oil
can cause the engine to smoke.
Pleated paper filters are among the most efficient in terms of
particle size trapped and permeability to air, but these filters cannot,
in any real sense, be cleaned and must be periodically replaced.
(Liquids swell the paper fibers, blocking air entry.)
Polyurethane, or sponge, filters (Fig. 3-25) match pleated pa-
per efficiency with the added bonus of reusability. Wash in solvent
or water and deterrent and re-oil with a few cc's of motor lube,
knealing the element to distribute the oil. It is good practice to check
the element each time the engine is started.
Some manufacturers employ a polyurethane "precleaner" in
conjunction with a pleated paper main element (Fig. 3-26). The

FILTER WITERIAL

\AIR
INTAKE

OIL LEVEL

!) OIL BATH
CLEAN AIR TO
CARBURETOR

Fig. 3-24. Oil-bath filters do a fair job and are at least reusable. This is an early
Kohler type.

103
 FLOCKED, CUPPED SCREEN MUST BE
POSmONED WITH EDGES AWAY
FROM ELEMENT ~

COVER
-
.....

POLYURETHANE
"""-.. FLOCKED ELEMENT
SCREEN

Fig . 3-25. Polyurethane filters achieve good results when properly wetted, but
suffer from oil migration and need frequent attention to maintain full efficiency.

precleaner has little depth of filtration and requires frequent

attention. Clean with detergent and water, allowing it to air dry
before oiling. Gently squeeze-do not wring-excessive oil from the
sponge that would otherwise migrate to the paper element.

GOVERNORS
Industrial and utility engines incorporate a governor to help
maintain engine rpm under varying loads and , more importantly,
to limit maximum speed to the friendly side of 3,600 rpm. Outboard,
chain saw and other high-performance engines do not , in general ,
employ such a governor, although many have some form of rpm
limiter (usually tied into the ignition system).
Air vane governors, such as the own shown in Fig. 3-27, sense
engine speed as a function of cooling air pressure and velocity. The
air vane is installed under the shroud and in the cooling stream.
It is spring-loaded and connected to the throttle by a linkage. As
engine rpm increases, air pressure on the vane reacts against spring
tension to shut the throttle, slowing the engine. If the engine
speed decreases past a certain limit, the spring opens the throttle.
Figure 3-26 s hows a fixed-speed governor. Engine s peed is
fixed in the sense that the operator has no throttle and can only
adjust the speed by loosening a screw and moving the spring-anchor
bracket. A variable-speed governor, one that gives the operator
discretion over engine speed, is similar in construction, but employs

104
a moveable spring anchor. Opening the throttle control stretches
the spring, increasing tension on it and causing the carburetor
throttle plate to open wider. Closing the throttle control relaxes
spring tension and biases the system in favor of the air vane that
acts to close the carburetor throttle plate.
Centrifugal governors sense engine rpm as flyweight movement
(Fig. 3-27). Camshaft-driven flyweights respond to increasing engine
rpm by moving outward. This movement, acting through a spool

r.1 -----Wing Nut

1 Air Cleaner
~ Cover
l

Element Cover

(
~
.e _ _ _

-- , ____ Seal
Element
Cover

C I
[Precleaner

Element

,,,,,,_ -~~
( : ~~'----Base
l -----Base Screw

~~ ~ - - - - G asket
-~
---.. .~"
l !------ Intake Elbow

w
, ~

Fig. 3-26. Modern Kohler filter combines paper element with polyurethane
precleaner.

105
 ADJUST RPM BY
LOOSENING SCREW
AND SLIDING
BRACKET

HORIZONTAL FIXED SPEED

(ALUMINUM AIR VANE GOVERNOR)

Fig. 3-27. Engine speed is changed on this fixed-speed air vane governor by
loosening screw and moving balance spring anchor bracket. The design is used
on some Tecumseh two-cycle engines.

and yoke mechanism, rotates the governor s haft and attached

gove rnor lever. The lever is linked to the carburetor throttle plate
and tends to close the throttle as rpm increases. A small coil spring,
known as an angleich or balance spring, opposes flyweight action
and would keep the throttle full open.
When the engine is shut down , flyweights are neutralized and
the balance spring is free to pull the throttle plate open. As soon
as the engine starts, flyweights energize to close the throttle to the
extent balance-spring tension permits. Under load, engine speed
drops, flyweights retract and the balance spring opens the throttle.
Engine speed picks up, flyweights respond and a new equil ibrium
is established.
Fixed-speed governors have their balance springs more or less
permanently anchored so that spring tension remains constant. On
variable-speed designs. the spring anchor is connected to the hand
throttle and tension can be varied at will over the rpm range. This
arrangement is clearly shown in B of Fig. 3-28.

106
 ... . ........ ........
~

.........
'

~' ·.· : 1:

.,

THROTTLE
IN
OPEN POSITION

GOVERNOR
IN
ADJUSTMENT CLOSED POSITION
SCREW

0
GOVlltMOII
ADJUSTING
LIVllt

THltOTTll

LIHIC

CAM GEAR
GOVEltHOR'---+
LEVIER

GOVERNOR - ---(cll..J
CUP
SHAl'T ..._:;a;
GOVERNOR
GEAR

Fig . 3-28. Centrifugal governors as applied to horizontal (A) and vertical

crankshaft (B) engines.

107
 Some centrifugal governors can be adjusted for sensitivity,
usualJy, by changing the mechanical advantage of the balance spring
relative to the governor lever (Fig. 3-29). Insufficient sensitivity
allows the engine to lose excessive speed under abrupt loads; too
much sens itivity, on the other hand , can result in hunting or
continuous s peed corr ections.
Other adjustments are possible. Some designs incorporate a
low-speed adjustment (distinct from the carburetor idle-speed
screw) and all centrifugal governors allow changes in the factory
high speed limit. A few governors incorporate a screw for this
purpose. Others can be fiddled by changing the position of the bal-
ance spring relative to the throttle or by bending the linkage.
Warning: Use an accurate tachometer when making low
speed and-most emphatically-high-speed adjustments. Do not
exceed factory rev limits.
The governor can be recalibrated. This operation is necessary
when the unit has been dismantled or severely worn (Fig. 3-30).
T he theory of this adjustment is the same for all governors: with
the engine shut down, loosen the governor lever on the governor
shaft and move the lever to the full-open throttle position. Holding
the lever with one hand , turn the governor s haft to seat the yoke
against the flyweights. The problem with this adjustment is that
the direction of governor shaft movement varies with engine
manufacturer and model. A mistake will dramatically destroy the
governor and usually takes out part of the cylinder block as well.
Therefore, obtain factory instructions or the help of a mechanic
familiar with the engine model in question before attempting this
adjustment.

FUEL PUMPS
Small engine fuel pumps are either mechanical or diaphragm
types. Either can be tested as follows:
1. Detern1ine that fuel reaches the pump. lf fitted , remove
the inlet filter to assure fuel passage.
2. Crack the outlet line fitting at the pump or carburetor.
3. Switch off the ignition.
4. Crank the engine.
5. If the fitting remains dry, the pump does not function and
must be repaired.

Other s igns of pump fai lure include a fuel starvation under ful l

108
 A - E A RLI ER MODELS
" O•C
l(.11;.s,, , \f(

.r"'lr -•Ncqe -... -

.,,,-:-° 1\ ""s£ MOVE GOVERN OR SPR ING
,.,....
-1.o
('(':

a\
¥ 0 111( !(N61T I Y(

; ~--
GQlt( 'fN QA - \, ( ~ ~ ) [ N) l "T t 'I [
) f'"IN C
GOV(A N OA S11 M J
THIS DISTANCE
0 DETERMI N ES

----
~ - C.Ov( A NOA__ AA._,
SE N SITIVITY
·~

-I ,-
\I CARBURETOR~ GOVERNOR
GOVERNOR
SPRI NG
SPRING
GOVERNOR ARM

----~
i\\\~ EXTENSION

GOVERNOR GOVERNOR
SHAFT- ARM
LINKAGE
GOVERNOR ARM
EXTENSION

0 Fig. 3-29. Moving the balance spring closer to the governor arm pivot improves response sensitivity. (Courtesy Onan .)
<D
 -
PUSH UVER
TO OPOI
TltROTTLE

TURN CUP
~'-f ~$jt---;;::;;a.-~? -- :~ ONCOUNTtRCU)Q(WIS(
VfJITICAL ENGINES
(a.OQ(WISE ON
HORIZONTAl EJIIGINESI

Fig. 3-30. The relationship between governor shaft and wide open throttle is
probably the crucial aspect of small engine service work. Unfortunately, pro-
cedures are not standardized (as this Tecumseh illustration shows) .

load and throttle, and gasoline (detected by its odor) in the

crankcase.

MECHANICAL PUMPS
Mechanical pumps are, for the most part, miniaturized
automotive units that drive from a camshaft or crankshaft eccentric.
Figure 3-31 illustrates a Briggs & Stratton pump used on several

IHLfT

GROOVE IH CRAHKSHAFT

Fig. 3-31. Briggs & Stratton mechanical fuel pump drives from a crankshaft
eccentric.

110
of the company's larger engines. Replace the diaphragm with the
followi ng procedure:

1. Remove the pump assembly from the engi ne.

2. Separate pump head (or upper body casting) from pump
body by removing the four hold-down screws. Note position of fuel
outlet fitting relative to the fuel line.
3. Using a small punch, drive out the pin in either direction
far enough to disengage pump lever.
4. Unhook lever from diaphragm. Remove lever, lever spring
and diaphragm.
5. Position replacement diaphragm over diaphragm spring
with slot in diaphragm shaft turned 90 ° from lever.
6. Install lever without lever spring (Fig.3-32A).Hook end of
lever into diaphragm shaft slot.

DIAPHRAGM
0

Fig. 3-32 . Service procedures for the Briggs & Stratton pump: Displace pin
far enough to release lever (A), install lever spring after lever and diaphragm
engagement is made (8), and compress diaphragm spring before tightening
pump head screws (C).

11 1
 7. Insert lever spring into position above lever. Inner end of
spring fits over projection in pump body casting; outer end is
jimmied over lever extension with a screwdriver (Fig. 3-32B).
8. Start-but do not run down-screws holding pump body
head to body casting. See that pump head fitting aligns with fuel
pipe.

LIPPFR PuMP BODY

(NOT SlR V ICEABLE/

VALVE CAGE
Rl= TA INER

" DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY---...

~ ' FUEL PUMP

' MOUNTING GASKET ~ ROD SPRING
' L OWER SIDE
DIAPHRAGM GASKET

PR IMI NG LEV~ O e LOWER BODY

• · PARTS INCLU DED IN REPAIR K I T .

Fig. 3-33. Pump furnished by Onan drives from camshaft and features a prim-
ing lever.

112
 PUMP VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM INLET OUTLET
TO CARB.
COVER
G ASKET

VALVE
PUMP SPRINGS IMPULSE
CHAMBER CHAMBER
BODY BODY

Fig . 3-34. Briggs & Stratton pump includes a secondary diaphragm that acts
like an accumulator to dampen fuel pulses. Check valves are integral with main
diaphragm. Tecumseh employs a similar design .

9. Press down hard on lever and tighten head screws in an

X-pattern. Steps 8 and 9 prevent excessive diaphragm stretch.
10. Position a new fuel pump flange gasket on the engine block,
securing it with Permatex or an equivalent gasket adhesive.
11. Mount the pump, making certain that the pump lever rides
on the flanged crankshaft eccentric. Start the pump-to-block
capscrews.
12. Tighten screws, turning flywheel as necessary to relieve
tension on the pump lever.
13. Make up fuel line connections.
14. Start engine to verify that pump operates and that there
are no fuel leaks.

Figure 3-33 illustrates a somewhat more elaborate mechanical

pump used by Onan and Kohler. Service procedures generally par-
allel those for the Briggs & Stratton unit and, at the risk of
repetition , the pump diaphragm spring must be compressed before
upper body screws are torqued down. Otherwise the diaphragm
will be overstressed and fail rapidly.

Diaphragm
Diaphragm pumps, also known as impulse, pulse, vacuum, and
pressure differential pumps, rely on the changing crankcase vacuum
to generate diaphragm movement (Figs. 3-34 and 3-35). As the pis-
ton moves toward the top of its s troke, a partial vacuum is created

11 3
~
~

VAL VE DIAPHRAGM PUMP

PUMP C.OVE: R G A ', r l I BASE
AIR BLEED
PUMP PLATE
'
~ n:t·t tutnkj I '
...
• .
SPRIN G

.....
,: ~ .•
',1 I •
:;
·• t':1..
,\· ·-=i...
l • ,.
.. .
J

@ i

~~
....- .
0,: .....;;;;;;;, #;
--,. . . .. i

R[EO
ASSE MBLY SCREW S VAL VE

Fig. 3-35. Onan pump is a serious piece of work (with reed valves).
 in the crankcase. This vacuum, transmitted to the pump by an
impulse line or, on block-mounted units, by a port, displaces the
diaphragm to allow fuel to enter the pump cavity. Crankcase
vacuum almost entirely dissipates on the downstroke and the
diaphragm, impelled by its spring, moves to force fuel through the
pump outlet.
Nearly all pump failures can be corrected by replacing the
diaphragm. However, a stoppage at the atmospheric bleed port or
leaks in the inlet or impulse plumbing can also disable the pump.
Some designs include an air bleed filter that requires periodic
cleaning and re-oiling.
To service the pump, disconnect fuel and vacuum lines, and
remove the unit from its mounting bracket. Scribe a mark across
the pump stack as an assembly aid. Carefully remove the parts,
strata by strata, noting their sequence and orientation. Pay
particular attention to the position of the diaphragm gasket relative
to the diaphragm. Some are on the outboard side of the diaphragm
and some are under it. Clean metallic parts in solvent and replace
soft parts from the overhaul kit. Install assembled pump on engine
and check for leaks.

115
 Chapter 4

Rewind Starters
Unlike other engine systems that operate continuously, manual and
electric starters are designed for intermittent use. This is why
rewind starters can get by with nylon bushings and motor pinions
can cheerfully bang into engagement with the flywheel. The starter
usually lasts about as long as the engine and the owner is satisfied.
But the balance between starter and engine life goes awry if
the engine is allowed to remain chronically out of tune. Most starter
failures are the result of overuse: the starter literally works itself
to death cranking a baulky engine. The mechanic must repair the
starter and-if the repair is to be permanent-must correct what-
ever it is that makes the engine reluctant to start.

SIDE PULL
The side-pull rewind (AKA recoil, self-winding, and retract-
able) starter was introduced by Jacobsen in 1928 and has changed
little in the interim. These basic components are always present
(Fig. 4-1).

• Pressed steel or aluminum housing, which contains the

starter and positions it relative to the flywheel.
• Recoil spring, one end of which is anchored to the housing,
the other to the sheave.
• Starter rope (nylon, although a few Fairbanks Morse

117
wirelines are still encountered) which is anchored to and wound
around the sheave.
• Sheave or pulley.
• Sheave bushing between sheave and housing or (on Briggs
& Stratton) between sheave and crankshaft.
• Clutch assembly.

Troubleshooting
Most failures have painfully obvious causes, but it might be
useful to have an idea of what you are getting into before the unit
is disassembled.

• Broken rope-the most common failure, often the result of

excessive tension on the rope near the end of its stroke or by pulling
the rope at an angle to the housing. The problem is exacerbated
by a worn rope bushing (the guide tube, at the point where the rope
exits the housing). In general, rope replacement means complete
starter disassembly, although some designs allow replacement with
the sheave still assembled to the housing.
• Loss of spring tension-usually the result of a broken spring,
but may also be caused by spring disengagement from the housing
or sheave. The spring anchor slot on Briggs & Stratton housings
may batter out and release the spring. Complete disassembly is
required.
• Rope fails to completely retract-on a unit in service, suspect
loss of spring preload tension due to aging. Best recourse is to re-
place the spring, although preload tension can be increased by one
sheave revolution. On a just-repaired unit, check the starter
housing/flywheel alignment, spring preload tension, and
replacement rope length and diameter.
• Failure to engage flywheel-a clutch problem, caused by a
worn or distorted brake spring (Fig. 4-1 illustrates a coil-type brake
spring; other designs employ more vulnerable hair springs), retainer
screw backout, or oil on clutch friction surfaces. While recoil spring
and sheave bushing generally require some lubrication, starter
clutch mechanisms must, as a rule , be assembled dry.
• Excessive force required to pull rope-check starter
housing/flywheel alignment first. Then remove starter, turn the
engine over by hand to verify that it is free, and check starter action.
Problem might involve a dry sheave bushing.
• Noise from starter as engine runs-check starter housing/fly-
118
 LATER M ODELS HAVE
CE NTER IN G PIN AN O
SLEEVE FOR ALIGNING
STARTER TO CRA NKSHAFT ----"
GREASE LIGHTLY

10~

~"'~

Fig. 4-1 . Eaton rewind starter with integral mainspring and housing that should
not be dismantled in the field . These starters can be recognized by lock tabs
on the spring housing OD. This starter also uses a small coil spring-shown
directly below the sheave-to generate friction on the clutch assembly.

wheel alignment. On Briggs & Stratton designs, the problem is of-

ten caused by a dry sheave bushing (located between the starter
clutch and crankshaft). Remove the blower housing and apply a
few drops of oil to the crankshaft end.

SERVICE PROCEDURES
Rewind starters are a special technology, and it is helpful to
take an overall view of the subject.The firs t order of business is
to release spring preload tension. T here are two ways to do th is.
Any rewind starter can be disarmed by removing the rope handle
and allowing the sheave to unwind in a controlled fashion. Other
starters have provision for tension release with the handle still
attached to the rope. Briggs & Stratton provides clearance between
sheave OD and housing that allows several inches of rope to be
fished out of the sheave groove. This increases the effective length
of the rope, enabling sheave and attached spring to unwind. Many
other designs incorporate a notch in the s heave for the same
purpose.
Brake the sheave with your thumbs as it unwinds. It is also

119
good practice to number sheave rotations from the point of full rope
retraction so that the same preload can be applied on assembly.
The sheave is secured at its edges by crimped tabs and located
by the crankshaft extension (Briggs & Stratton side pull), or else
rotates on a pin attached to the starter housing. A screw (Eaton)
or retainer ring (Fairbanks-Morse, several foreign makes) secures
the sheave to the post.
The main spring lives under the sheave, coiled between sheave
and housing, with its inner, or movable, end secured to the sheave
hub. The outer, or stationary, spring end anchors to the housing.
Warning: Even after preload tension is dissipated , rewind
springs store energy that can erupt when the sheave is disengaged
from the housing. Wear safety glasses.
The manner in which recoil springs secure to the housing varies
among makes, and this affects service procedures. Some Eaton
starters use an integral spring retainer that indexes to slots in the
housing (Fig. 4-2). Spring and retainer are handled as a unit and
should not be disassembled.
What might be called the standard attachment strategy is to
secure the spring to a post, pressed into the underside of the
housing. The fixed end of the spring forms an eyelet or, as the case
may be, a hook, that s lips over the anchor post. To simplify
assembly, most manufacturers supply replacement springs coiled
in a retainer clip. T he mechanic positions the spring and retainer
in the housing cavity with the spring eyelet over the post and

HOLD TIGHT
W ITH THU MB-
RELEA SE SLOWLY

Fig. 4-2. Common sense dictates that the starter should be disarmed before
sheave is detached. Most have provision to unwind the rope a turn or so while
others are disarmed by removing the rope handle and allowing the rope to
fully retract .

120
 CLOCK WI SE ENGI NE ROTAT IO N

COVER

REWIND SP R ING

COU NT ER CLOCK WISE ENGINE ROTAT IO N

REWIND SPR ING

Fig . 4-3. Many rewind springs and all ropes can be assembled for left-hand
or right-hand engine rotation. This feature is a manufacturing convenience that
makes life difficult for mechanics.

presses the spring out of the retainer (which is then discarded).

Sheave engagement usually takes care of itself. Exceptions are dis-
cussed in sections dealing with specific starters.
Some starters adapt to left or right-hand rotation by reversing
the spring (Fig. 4-3). Viewing the starter housing from the underside
and using the movable spring end as reference , clockwise engine
rotation demands counterclockwise spring wind up. The wrap of
the rope must, of course, provide appropriate sheave rotation.
The third type of spring anchor- after the integral retainer and
the hous ing post. T his anchor takes the form of a slot in the starter
housing through which the spring passes. Figure 4-4 shows a Briggs
& Stratton side-pull unit that is similar to several OMC Lawnboy
types.
These starters are assembled by winding the spring home with
the sheave. Thread the movable end of the spring through the
housing slot, engage the movable end with the s heave, and rotate
the sheave opposite engine rotation until the whole length of the
spring snakes through the housing slot. The fixed end of the spring
is notched or hooked for retention by the slot.
Rewind spring preload is necessary to maintain some rope
tension when the rope is retracted. T oo little preload and the rope

121
handle droops; too much and the spring binds solid to pull out of
its anchors.
Depending upon starter make and model , either of two
approaches is used to establish preload. Most manufacturers
suggest this general procedure:

1. Remove the rope handle if it is still attached.

2. Secure one end of the rope to the sheave anchor.
3. Wind the rope completely over the sheave, so that the
s heave will rotate in the direction of engine rotation when the rope
is pulled.
4. Wind the sheave against engine rotation , a specified
number of turns. If the specification is unknown , wind until the
spring coil binds and release sheave for one or two revolutions.
5. Without allowing the sheave to unwind further, thread the
rope through the guide tube (also called a ferrule or eyelet) in the
starter housing and attach the handle.
6. Gently pull the starter through to make certain that the
rope extends to its full length before the onset of coil bind and that
the rope retracts smartly.

Another technique can be used when the rope anchors to the

inboard (engine) side of the sheave:

1. Assemble sheave and spring.

2. Rotate the sheave, winding the mainspring until coil bind
occurs.

UN USED TANG BLOWER HOUSING

PULLEY

CURRENT STYLE
OLD STYLE REWI ND SPRING RE WIND
REWI ND SPRING STARTER GRIP

Fig. 4-4. Briggs & Stratton rewind starter used on 6 through 11 cubic inch
engines. A later variant employs redesigned sheave and dispenses with nylon
bumpers.

122
 3. Release spring tension by one or no more than two sheave
revolutions.
4. Block the sheave to hold spring tension. Some designs have
provision for a nail that is inserted to lock the sheave to the housing;
others can be snubbed with Vise-Grips or C-clamps.
5. With rope handle attached, thread rope through housing
ferrule and anchor it to the sheave.
6. Release the sheave block and, using your thumbs for a
brake, allow the sheave to rewind, pulling rope after it.
7. Test starter operation.

The starter rope should be the same weave, diameter, and

length as the originals. If required length is unknown, anchor the
rope to the sheave, wind the sheave until coil bind-an operation
that also winds the rope on sheave- release the sheave for one or
two turns, and cut the rope (leaving enough surplus for handle
attachment).
Three types of clutch asse1nblies are encountered: Briggs &
Stratton sprag, or rachet, Fairbanks-Morse friction-type, and the
positive-engagement dog-type used by other manufacturers. In
event of slippage, clean the Briggs clutch and replace the brake
springs on the other types. Fairbanks-Morse clutch shoes may re-
spond to sharpening .
One last general observation concerns starter positioning. When-
ever a rewind starter has been removed from the engine or has
vibrated loose, starter clutch/flywheel hub alignment must be re-
established. Follow this procedure:

1. Attach starter or starter/blower housing assembly loosely

to engine.
2. Pull starter handle out about 8 inches to engage the clutch.
3. Without releasing the handle, tighten the starter hold-down
screws.
4. Cycle starter a few times to check for possible clutch drag
or rope bind. Reposition as necessary.

BRIGGS & STRATTON

Briggs & Stratton side-pull starters are special in several
respects (Fig. 4-4). In addition to its basic function of transmitting
torque from the starter sheave to the flywheel and disengaging
when the engine catches, the starter clutch also serves as flywheel

123
nut and starter sheave shaft. Starter and blower housing assemblies
are integral. It is possible, however, to drill out the spot welds and
replace the s tarter assembl y as a separate unit. Bend-over tabs
locate the starter sheave in the starter hous ing.

Disassembly
Follow th is procedure:

1. Remove blower housing and starter from engine.

2. Remove rope by cutting the knot at the s tarter s heave-
vis ible from underside of blower housing.
3. Using pliers, grasp the protruding end of the mainspring
and pull out as far as possible (Fig. 4-5). Disengage the spring from
the sheave by rotating the s pring a quarter turn or by prying one
of the tangs up and twisting the sheave.
4. Clean and inspect. Replace the rope if it is oil soaked or
frayed. Although it might appear possible to reform the end of a
broken B & S mainspring, such efforts are in vain and the spring
will have to be replaced for a permanent repair. The same holds
for the spring anchor slot in the housing. Once an anchor has
swallowed a spring, the housing should be renewed.

Assembly
1. Dab a spot of grease on underside of steel sheave. Note that
a plastic version requires no lubrication. See Fig. 4-6.
2. Secure blower housing- engine side up- to the workbench.

ENO OF SPRING

)I
Fig. 4-5. Once rope is removed , pull the rewind spring out of the starter hous-
ing. The spring can be detached from sheave by twisting either sheave or spring
a quarter turn .

124
 HUB

HOLE IN
OLD STYLE PULLEY

CURRENT STYLE OLD STYLE

Fig. 4-6. Spring installation varies slightly with the date of manufacture. Steel
sheaves require lubrication.

This can be accomplished with nails or C-clamps.

3. Working from outside of the blower housing, pass the inner
end of mainspring through housing anchor s lot. Engage inner end
with the s heave hub.
4. Some mechanics attach rope-less handle-to the s heave
at this point. The rope end is cauterized in an open fla me and is
knotted.
5. Bend tabs to give the sheave 1/16 of an inch endplay. Use
nylon bushings on early models so equipped.
6. Using a 3/4-inch wrench extension bar or a piece of one
by one inserted into sheave centerhole, wind the sheave 16 turns
or so counterclockwise until full length of mainspring passes
through the housing slot and coil binds.
7 Release enough mainspring tension to align the rope anchor
hole in the sheave with the housing eyelet.
8. Temporarily block the sheave to hold spring tension. This
can be done with a Crescent wrench snubbed between winding tool
and blower housing. See A of Fig. 4-7.
9. If rope has been installed, extract end from between sheave
flanges, thread through eyelet, cauterize and attach handle. If the
rope has not been installed, pass the cauterized end through the

125
eyelet from outside the housing, between sheave flanges and out
through sheave anchor hole (Fig. 4-7). Knot the end of the rope.
Old-style sheaves incorporate a guide lug between flanges. The rope
must pass between the lug and sheave hub. This operation is aided
by a small screwdr1ver or a length of piano wire (A of Fig. 4-7).

The clutch is normally not opened unless it slips, a condition

that may be caused by wear or presence of lubricant. Old-style
assemblies are secured with a wire retainer clip; newer models
depend upon retainer-cover tension and can be pried apart with
a s mall screwdriver (F ig. 4-8). Clean parts with a dry rag (avoiding
use of solvent). The clutch housing can be removed from the
crankshaft using a special factory wrench described in Chapter 3.

\I \\I
HOLE IN EYELET
PULLEY

GUIDE LUG RIB TYPE ONLY

ROPE
EYELET ,_.-

Fig . 4-7. Cast-iron block Briggs & Stratton engines never seem to wear out
and starters with internal rope guide lugs are still encountered. Use a length
of piano wire to push the top past the inner side of the lug as shown (A). Newer
designs omit the guide lug, making installation easier (B).

126
 RETAINER
~ .~ SEAL COVER

RATCHET

CLUTCH HOUSI NG

Fig. 4-8. Current production clutch cover is a snap fit to clutch housing . Older
version employed a spring wire retainer. As a point of interest, older engines
can be modified to accept new clutch assembly by trimming 3/8 inch from the
crankshaft stub and 1/2 inch from sheave hub.

Eaton
Recognized by P-shaped engagement dogs, or pawls, Eaton
starters are found on a wide variety of American engines. Light
duty models employ a single pawl, more substantial types use two,
and high-torque models have three. Eaton pioneered the use of
mainspring and spring retainer (a feature that makes life easier and,
perhaps, safer for mechanics). Another Eaton feature is the
centering pin; it usually rides on a nylon bushing. Figure 4-1 shows
a single-pawl Eaton starter with a mainspring and centering pin.
T he most common complaint is failure to engage the flywheel.
This difficulty can be traced to the clutch brake, which generates
friction that translates into pawl engagement, or to the pawls
themselves. Two brake mechanisms are encountered. The latest
arrangement, shown in Fig. 4-1, employs a small coil spring that
reacts against the cuplike pawl retainer. You can see the spring
directly below the sheave and to the left of the pawl. Another brake
mechanism, used for many years and apparently still in production,
interposes a star-shaped brake washer between the pawl retainer
and brake spring. Figures 4-9 and 4-12 illustrate this part. A
shouldered retainer screw secures the assembly to the s heave and
preloads the brake spring (Fig. 4-10).
Check the retainer screw, which should be just short of hernia
tight, inspect friction parts, with special attention to optional star

127
 14

II ~ -;,7, •
'{\~~ ..----a
•D IS ASSE MBLY - REFER ·. ' , "'
TO TEXT ~ QJ~ '\ 9
t ASSEMBLY - REFER 10-----\ ( ~ ."'; )
TO TEXT -- •
•
~ ---7
4..--C:::, ,
6~

5- ------·'
@ --3
i 2

Fig. 4-9. Eaton light-duty pattern found on small two and four-stroke engines.
This starter is distinguished by its uncased mainspring (13) and single-dog clutch
(dog shown at 4, clutch retainer at 3) . In event of slippage during cranking,
replace friction spring 5 and brake 6.

CENTER
PIN HOLE

RETAINER SCREW
TORQUE 45 -55 IN. LBS.
-----~-

01

Fig. 4-10. View looking toward the inboard side of the sheave with one of two
dogs assembled over return spring and brake spring in place . This unit is to
be assembled dry; only snow-proof models, distinguished by half-moon cam
that engages the dogs, require oil on dog-mounting posts.

128
brake, and check the pawl return spring (Fig. 4-11) that can be
damaged by engine backfire. Clean parts, assemble without
lubricant, and observe pawl response as the rope is pulled. If
necessary, replace the star brake, retainer cup, and brake spring.
Figure 4-12 shows top-of-the-line Eaton s tarter used on
industrial engines. Service procedures are s lightly more complex
than for lighter-duty units because the sheave is split. This makes
rope replacement more difficul t, and the mainspring, which is not
held captive in a retainer, can thresh about when the sheave is
removed.

Disassembly

1. Remove five scre\vs securing starter assembly to blower

housing.
2. Release spring preload. Most h-d models employ a notched
sheave that allows rope slack for disarming (see Fig. 4-2).
3. Remove retainer screw and any washers that may be
present.
4. Lift off clutch assembly, together with brake spring and
optional brake spring washer.
5. Carefully extract sheave, keeping mainspring confined

RIGHT HANO
STARTER DOG
RETURN SPR ING

ST ARTER
DOG

Fig . 4-11 . Eaton rewind starter partially dissembled . Generous retainer screw
torque compresses brake spring , generating friction against retainer that
extends dog. Because the rope attaches to the inboard-and accessible-
side of the sheave, the rope can be replaced by applying and holding mainspring
pre-tension as shown. Original rope is fished out , new rope is passed through
the eyelet and sheave hole, knotted, and pretension is slowly released. Spring
winds rope over sheave.

129
......
w
0

DRIVE CUP
~ / ( O N CRANKSHAF T)
DOG
RETA! ttER

®s ~ PULLEY -SHEAVE Fig. 4-12. Eaton heavy-duty starter

/ASSEMB LY of the type used on some Kohler
- - - -- --:;, engines. Note brake start washer,

DOG ( 3 ) /
a G
QI
REWIND
SPRING
three-dog clutch, and split sheave.

CJOJ / HDUSIN7
~
(It~~
Q)

- /

' 0
within starter housing. Wear safety glasses during this and
subsequent operations.
6. Remove rope, which may be knotted on the inboard side
of sheave or which may be sandwiched between sheave halves as
shown in Fig. 4-12. Screws that hold sheave halves together might
require a hammer impact tool to loosen.
7. Remove the spring if it is to be replaced. Springs without
a retainer are unwound a coil at a time from the center outward.
8. Clean and inspect with particular attention to the clutch
mechanism. Older light-duty and medium-duty models employed
a shouldered clutch retainer screw with a 10-32 thread. This part
can be updated to a 12-28 thread (Tecumseh part No. 590409A)
by retapping the sheave pivot shaft.

Assembly
1. Apply a light film of grease to the mainspring and sheave
pivot shaft. Do not over-lubricate because the brake spring and
clutch assembly must be dry to develop engagement friction. Snow-
proof clutches, recognized by application and by half-moon pawl
cam, might benefit from a few drops of oil on the pawl posts.
2. Install the rewind spring. Loose springs are supplied in a
disposable retainer clip. Position the spring-observing correct
engine rotation as illustrated in Fig. 4-3-over the housing anchor
pin. Gently cut the tape holding the spring to the retainer, retrieving
tape in segments. Use spring and retainer sets by si mply dropping
them in place.
3. Install rope, an operation that varies with sheave
construction.

Split Sheave

A) Double knot rope , cauterize and install between sheave

halves-trapping tope in cavity provided.
B) Install sheave on sheave pivot shaft, engaging inner end of
mainspring. A punch or piece of wire can be used to snag the spring
end as shown in Fig. 4-13. Install clutch assembly.
C) Wind sheave until mainspring coil binds (Fig. 4-14).
D) Carefully release spring tension two revolutions and align
rope end with eyelet in starter housing.
E) Using Vise-Grips, clamp sheave to hold spring tension and
guide rope through eyelet. Attach handle.

131
 INSERT PUNCH IN TO
THROUGH HOLE AIDI NG
SPRING ENGAGEMENT

Fig . 4--13. A punch aids spring-to-sheavge engagement on large Eaton starters .

__
.....________ ....:::.....

SCR EW DRIVER--~~

3 . IN SERT ROPE

/
2. CLAMP Vv1TH
PLIERS TO
RETAIN TENSION

Fig. 4- 14. Prewind specification varies with starter model and mainspring con-
dition.

132
 F) Verify that sufficient pretension is present to retract rope.

One-Piece Sheave
A) Wind sheave to coil bind and back off to align rope hole
on inboard face of s heave with housing eyelet.
B) Clamp sheave.
C) Cauterize ends of ropes and install rope through eyelet and
s heave (Fig. 4-15).
D) Knot rope under sheave and install handle.
E) Carefully release sheave, allowing rope to wind as spring
relaxes.
F) T est for proper pretens ion.
3. Pull out centering pin (where fitted) so that it protrudes
a bout 1/8 inch past the end of the clutch retainer screw. Some
models employ a centering pin bushing.
4. Install starter assembly on engine, pulling the starter
through several revolutions before hold-down screws are snubbed.
Test operation.

CENTER
STARTER SCREW VISE JAWS
DOG
I

ROPE
HOLE - - -,.~~
"' ' )
I
ROPE
LEVER ACTION
OUTLET
PLIERS

Fig. 4-15 . Installing rope on one-piece sheave involves passing rope from out-
side starter housing, through eyelet, and into sheave connection point.

133
Fairbanks-Morse
Fitted to several American engines, F-M starters can be
recognized by absence of serrations on the flywheel cup. The cup
is a soft aluminum casting and friction shoes (clutch or brake shoes)
are sharpened for purchase. Early models used a wireline in lieu
of the rope. Figure 4-16 is a composite drawing of Models 425 and
4 75, intended for larger single-cylinder engines.

Disassembly
1. Remove starter assembly from blower housing.
2. Turn starter over on bench and , holding the large washer
down with thumb pressure , remove the retainer ring that secures
the sheave and clutch assembly (A of Fig. 4-17).
3. Remove the washer, brake spring and friction shoe
assembly. Normally, friction shoe assembly is not broken down
further.
4. Relieve mainspring preload. T his can be accomplished by
removing the rope handle and allowing the sheave to unwind in
a controlled fashion. Tension on Model 4 75 can be released by
removing screws holding middle and mounting flanges together (B
of Fig. 4-1).
5. Cautiously lift the sheave about 1/2 inch out of housing and
detach the inner spring end from the sheave hub.
6. The mainspring is left undisturbed (unless it is to be
replaced). From the center outward, remove a coil at a time.
7. Clean parts in solvent and inspect.

Assembly
1. Install spring, hooking spring eyelet over anchor pin on
cover. The spring lay shown in D of Fig. 4-17 is for conventional-
clockwise when facing flywheel-engine rotation.
2 Rope installation and preload varies with starter model. In
all cases, rope is attached to sheave and wound on it before the
sheave is fitted to starter cover and mainspring. Model 475 employs
a split rope guide, or ferrule, consisting of a notch in the middle
flange and starter housing. Consequently, rope may be secured to
and wound overflange with rope handle attached. Model 425 and
most other F-M starters use a one-piece ferrule and rope must be
installed without a handle. After the sheave is secured and the
preload established, the rope is threaded through the ferrule for
handle attachment.

134
 COP
MOUNTING FLANGE
/
I) E,~ ~ - MIDDLE FLANGE

/:"-./
~ J---'t I RETAINER
· /}/ / WASHER
/ BRAKE
t>/ /
<ft,

@ "" WASHER
~ WASHER / /" /t~/ WASHER ROPE
CENTERING / WASHER ~ o / / SHEAVE

~ ,_
PIN , @ /

,y,,- ' REWIND

FRICTION / ,' ~ / SPRING
SHOE ASSEMBLY
/ I (!~ /,i
, -~ (ilfP
,dJ!Ji( ~
' ;,:,
r
·l Y
HOUSING /

..... Fig. 4-16. Fairbanks-Morse starter used on Kohler and other heavy-duty engines. Mounting and middle flanges are characteristic of F-M
(.,.)
(J1 Model 475.
_..

e
(,.)
0) 0 0 DOUB! E
K.NOT"'

e G G

SHARP EDGE

Fig. 4-17. Crucial service operations and parts relationships include removing the retainer ring and spring-loaded washer (A), releasing residual
spring tension, flanged -starter shown (8) , rope anchors and rope lay, standard engine rotation (C), mainspring orientation , standard rotation
(D) , engaging spring and sheave (E), and correct brake shoe assembly (D).
 3. Lubricate the sheave pivot shaft with light g rease a nd ap-
ply a small quantity of motor oil to the mainspring. A void
overlubrication.
4. Install the sheave over the sheave pivot shaft with the rope
fully wound. Using a screwdriver, hook the inner end of spring into
sheave hub (E of Fig. 4-17).
5. Establish preload, four sheave re volutions against the
direction of engine rotation for Model 425 , five turns for Model
4 75 and variable for others.
6. Complete assembly, installing sheave hold-down hardware
and friction shoe assembly. When assembled correctly, sharp edges
of fri ction shoes are poised for leading contact with flywheel hub
ID (F of Fig. 4-17).
7. P ull centering pin out about 1/8 of an inc h for positive
engagement with the cranks haft centerhole.
8. Install the assembled starter on the flower housing, rotating
the flywh eel with the starter rope as hold-down screws are torqued.
This proced ure helps to center the clutch in the flywheel hub .
9. Start the engine to verify starter operation.

The Fairbanks-Morse utility starter is a s n1alle r and simpler

version of the heavy-duty models just discussed. The starter
housing mounts directly to the engine cooling shroud (eliminating
flanges). A one-piece sheave is used with the rope , anchored by
a knot, rather than compression fitting. The utility starter uses the
sa me clutch components as its larger counterparts and , like them,
can be assembled for right-hand or left-hand engine rotation. See
Fig. 4-18.

VERTICAL PULL
Like othe r spring-powered devices, vertical-pull starters must
be disarmed before disassembly. Otherwise, the starter will dis-
arm itself with unpredictable results . Disarming involves three
distinct steps: releasing mainspring pretension (usually by s lipping
a foot or so of rope out of the sheave flange and allowing the sheave
to unwind), disengaging mainspring anchor (usually held by a
threaded fastener) and , when the spring is to be replaced, uncoiling
the spring from its housing. Safety glasses are ma ndatory .
Vertical-pull starters tend to be mechanically complex and-
because of a heavy reliance upon plastic, lig ht-gauge steel, and
spring wire-are unforgiving. Parts easily be nd or break. Lay
components out on the bench in proper orientation and in sequence

137
 -
C""'4

-
(D

-
-
a, w
8
I
81D
w
Cl.
er
~
9D ~
81D co I.ft

~
Cl
""

138
 ILLUS.
NO. QTY. DESC RIPTJ ON
I I Cover
2 I R ew ind spring
3 I Ro to r
4 2 Friction sh oe pla te
5 2 Friction shoe spri11g
6 2 Spring retainer p lati.:
7 I Brake spring
8 I Brake washer
9 2 Fiber washer
10 I Brake lever
II I Brake reta iner washer
12 I Retai ner ring
13 I Centering pin
14 I Cord
15 I Cup an<l screen
16 I T -h a ndle
17 I L .H . thick hex nut
17A I R .H. thick hex nut
18 I Ext. tooth lock.washer (left h a nd)
ISA I Ext. tooth lock.washer (rig ht h and)
19 4 Pan hd . screw w/ int.-ext. tooth lock washer
20 I Friction shoe assembl y, incl u des: Item s 4, 5, 6 and I 0
21 I Spira l pin
22 I Roll pin

_.
w Fig. 4- 18. Small series Fairbanks-Morse employs integral cover and mounting pedestals. Knot at the rope sheave end can be set up for
(0 right or left rotation. This example is used by Chrysler L series engines.
of disassembly. If there is any likelihood of confusion, make
sketches to guide assembly. Also note that step-by-step instructions
in this book must aim at thoroughness and describe all operations.
It will rarely be _necessary to follow every step and to completely
dismantle a starter.

Briggs & Stratton

Briggs & Stratton uses one vertical-pull starter with minor
variations in the link and sheave mechanisms. It is probably the
most reliable of these starters and the easiest to repair.

Disassembly
1. Remove starter assembly from engine.
2. Release mainspring pre-tension by lifting the rope out of
the sheave flange and, using the rope for purchase, winding the
sheave counterclockwise two or three revolutions (Fig. 4-19).
3. Carefully pry the plastic cover off with a screwdriver. Do
not pull on the rope with the cover off and spring anchor attached.
Under these conditions it is possible for the outer end of the spring
to slip out of the housing.
4. Remove the spring anchor bolt and spring anchor (Fig.
4-20). If the mainspring is to be replaced, carefully extract it from
the housing, working from center coil outward. Note the spring lay
for future reference.
5. Separate the sheave and pin (Fig. 4-21). Observe the link
orientation.
6. Rope can be detached from sheave with the aid of long-
nosed pliers. Figure 4-22 illustrates this operation and link retainer
variations.
7. Rope can be disengaged from handle by prying the handle
center section free and cutting the knot (Fig. 4-23).
8. Clean parts (except rope) in petroleum-based solvent to
remove all traces of lubricant.
9. Verify gear response to link movement as shown in Fig.
4-24. The gear should move easily between its travel limits. Re-
place link as necessary.

Assembly
1. Install the outer end of mainspring in housing retainer slot
and wind counterclockwise (Fig. 4-25).

140
Fig. 4-19. Briggs & Stratton vertical-pull starters are disarmed by slipping rope
out of sheave groove and using the rope to turn the sheave two or three revolu-
tions counterclockwise until the mainspring relaxes.

Fig. 4-20. Mainspring anchor bolt must be torqued 75-90 inch-pound and can
be further secured with thread adhesive.

141
 AL TERNA TE STYLE
LI NK

Fig . 4-21. Observe friction li nk orientation for assembly.

2. Guide the rope into the sheave with the help of a small
screwdriver or stiff wire (Fig. 4-26).
3. Knot the rope and sear the end in the open flame to prevent
unraveling. Pull the rope hard; the seating knot must not interfere
with link operation.
4. Ins tall rope in handle.

~ - - ALTERNA TE STYLE
RETAINER

Fig. 4-22. Rope can be disengaged from sheave with long-nosed pliers.

142
 INSERT

Fig . 4-23. Briggs & Stratton handle

insert must be pried out of grip for
rope installation.
~ -GRIP

TO ASSEMBLE,
THIS END OF
LINK LOOP
TOWARD GEAR

Fig. 4-24. Pinion gear should move through its full range of travel in response
to link movement. Note orientation of link for assembly (inset).

PRING
RETAINER \
SLOT

Fig. 4-25. Mainspring winds counterclockwise from outer coil.

143
 3/ 18" (4.8 mm) MAX.
(B OTH ENDS)

Fig. 4-26. A short length of piano wire aids rope insertion into sheave .

5. Mount the sheave, sheave pin and link assembly in the

housing. Index the end of link in groove or hole provided (Fig. 4-27).
6. Install the rope guide and hold-down screw.
7. Rotate the sheave counterclockwise, winding the rope over
sheave (Fig. 4-28).
8. Engage the inner end of the mainspring on the spring
anchor. Mount a nchor and torque hold-down capscrew 75-90
inc h-pounds.
9. Snap plastic cover into place over spring cavity.
10. Disengage 12 inches or so of rope from the sheave and,
using rope for purchase, turn the sheave two or three revolutions
clockwise to generate pre-tension. See Fig. 4-29.
11. Mount starter on engine and test.

Tecumseh
T ecumseh has used several vertical-pull starters, ranging from

ROPE
GUIDE

ROPE GUIDE

Fig. 4-27. Friction link hold-down detai l.

144
 - ---
'
-- ,,,.

Fig. 4-28. The rope winds counterclockwise on the sheave, and then the spring
anchor and anchor bolt are installed.

quickie adaptations of side-pull designs in the 1960s to the current

vertical-engagement type, which stands as a kind of textbook
example of modern engineering and manufacturing techniques.
The gear-driven starter shown in Fig. 4-30 is an interesting
transition from side to vertical-pull. No special service instructions
seem appropriate, except to provide plenty of grease in the gear
housing and some light lubrication on the mainspring. Assemble
the brake spring without lubricant.
The current horizontal-engagement starter (Fig. 4-31) is
reminiscent of the Briggs & Stratton des ign, with rope clip, cup-

Fig. 4-29. Pretension requires two or three sheave revolutions using the rope
for leverage.

145
 · -GEAR PIN(12)

RELEASE PRE-TENSION
BY HOLDING PULLEY W ITH ROPE ""1"\_
T H UMB AND UNWIN DING ROPE
THROUGH PULLEY SLO T COVER SCREW

Fig . 4-30. Early Tecumseh vertical-pull starter, driving through a gear train.
While heavy and , no doubt, expensive to manufacture, this starter was quite
reliable.

type spring anchor (" hub" in the drawing) and threaded sheave
extension upon which the pinion rides.

Disassembly
1. Remove the unit from the engine.

SCREW

./"") ....
'
1

\
Fig . 4-31 . Tecumseh 's most widely used vertical-pull starter employs a spiral
gear to translate the pinion horizontally into contact with the flywheel.

146
 2. Detach the handle and allow the rope to retract past the
rope clip. This operation relieves mainspring preload tension.
3. Remove two screws, while holding the cover in place, and
carefully pry the cover free.
4. Remove the hold-down screw and hub.
5. Extract mainspring from housi ng, working a coil at a time
from the center out. If it will be reused, the spring can be left
undisturbed.
6. Lift off the gear and pulley assembly. Disengage the gear
and, if necessary, remove the rope from the pulley.
7. Clean parts.
8. Inspect the friction spring (the Achilles' heel of vertical-
pull starters). The spring must be in solid contact with the groove
1n gear.

Assembly
1. Secure the rope to the handle, using No. 4 1/2 or 5 nylon
rope, 61 inches long for standard starter configurations. Sear rope
ends and form by wiping with a cloth while the rope is still hot.
2. Assemble gear on pulley, using no lubricant.
3. Lightly grease center shaft and install gear and pulley.
Brake spring loop is secured by bracket tab. Rope clip indexes with
hole in bracket (Fig. 4-32).
4. Install hub and torque center screw to 44-55 inch-pound.
5. Install spring. New springs are packed in a retainer clip
to make installation easier.
6. Install cover and cover screws.

MOUNlWG IRAa<ET
RECEPTAW FOR RAB MUST m INTD
RAISED SPOT SPflMLOOP

Fig. 4-32. Generous gear lash , minimum 1/16 inch, is required to assure pi-
nion disengagement when engine starts.

147
 FLYWHEEL GEAR ROOT DI AMETER
OR BASE OF THE GE AR TOOTH

\ ST AR TER GE AR TOOTH HEAD OR OUT-

S I DE PERIMETER OF STARTER G EAR

Fig. 4-33. Rope clip and spring loop index to bracket.

7. Wind rope on pulley by slipping it past rope clip. When

fully wound, turn pulley two additional revolutions for preload.
8. Mount starter on engine, adjusting bracket for minimum
1/16-inch tooth clearance (Fig. 4-33). Less clearance could prevent
disengagement , grenading the starter.

The vertical-pull, vertical-engagement starter is a serious piece

of work that demands special service procedures. It is relatively
easy to disassemble while still armed. Results of this error can be
painful. Another point to note is that rope-to-sheave assembly as
done in the field varies from the original factory assembly.
Figure 4-34 is a composite drawing of several vertical-pull
starters. Many do not contain the astericked parts, and early models
do not have the V-shaped groove on the upper edge of the bracket
that s implifies rope replace ment.
When this groove is present, the rope (No. 4 1/2, 65-inch
standard length, longer with remote rope handle) can be renewed
by turning the sheave until the staple, which holds the rope to the
sheave, is visible at the groove (Fig. 4-35). Pry out the staple and
wind the sheave tight. Release the sheave just some 180 ° to index
the hole in the sheave with the V-groove. Insert one end of the
replacement rope through the hole , out through the bracket.
Cauterize and knot the short end, and pull the rope through, burying
the knot in the s heave cavity. Install rope handle, replacing the
original staple with a knot, and release the sheave. The rope should
wind itself into place.

148
Disassembly
1. Remove starter from engine.
2. Pull out the rope far enough to secure rope in the V-wedge
on the bracket end . This part, distinguished from the V-groove
mentioned above, is called out in Fig. 4-34.
3. The rope handle can be removed by prying out the staple
with a s mall screwdriver.
4. Press out the head pin that supports the sheave and spring
the capsule in the bracket. This can be done in a vise with a large
deepwell wrench socket as backup.
5. Tum the spring capsule to align with brake s pring legs.
Insert a nail or short (3/4-inch maximum) pin through the hole in
strut and into gear teeth (Fig. 4-36).
6. Lift the s heave assembly and spring the capsule out of the
bracket.

KEY 0

STRUT
PAWL•

-'wi- LOCl<ING PAWL•

"V' RODE WEDGE

~·~~-
-
- PIN

0
USED ON SOME MOOE.LS

Fig. 4-34. Tecumseh's vertical-pull, vertical-engagement starter is most

sophisticated unit used on small engines. Spring and cover are integral and
are not separated for service.

149
 -
liii
- 0

Fig. 4-35. V-groove in bracket gives access to rope anchor on some models.

Warning: Do not separate the sheave assembly and spring

capsule until the mainspring is completely disarmed.

7. Hold the spring capsule firmly against the outer edge of

g
0 ROTATE
COUNTERCLOCKWISE

STRUT

Fig. 4-36. A pin locks the spring capsule and gear to prevent sudden release
of mainspring tension .

150
the sheave with thumb pressure and extract the locking pin inserted
in Step 5.
8. Relax pressure on the spring capsule, allowing the caps ule
to rotate , and dissipating residual mainspring tension .
9. Separate the capsule from sheave and, if rope replacement
is in order, then remove hold-down staple from sheave.
10. Clean and inspect parts.

Note: No lubr icant is used on any part of this starter.

Assembly
1. Cauterize and fo rm ends of replacement rope (see specs
above) by wiping down with a rag while still hot.

ORIGINAL INSTALLATION
WITH STAPLE

LEFT-HAND
REINSTALL KNOT
LEFT-HAND
KNOT INSTALL NEW ROPE

0
""'" res,,.,,,,.

PRY STAPLE
OUT TO
REMOVE OLD ROPE Q

Fig. 4-37. Replacement rope anchors with knot, rather than staple, and mounts
180° from original position on sheave.

151
 GEAR
HUB
STARTER SPRING
I ENO
I

C.J

-,
'

SPRING HOOKED
ON GEAR HUB ROTATE SPRING
0 4 FUll TURNS 0
Fig. 4-38 . Spring capsule engages gear hub (A), is rotated four revolutions and
pinned (B).

2. Insert one end of rope into sheave, 180 ° away from original
(staple) mount (A of Fig. 4-37).
3. Tie knot and pull rope into knot cavity.
4. Install handle (B of Fig. 4-37).
5. Wind rope clockwise-as viewed from gear- on s heave.
6. Install brake spring, spreading spring ends no more than
necessary.
7. Position the spring capsule on the sheave, making certain
the mainspring end engages the gear hub (A of Fig. 4-38).
8. Wind four revolutions, align the brake spring ends with
the strut (B of F ig. 4-38), and lock with the pin used during
disassembly.

0 0

GUIDE
BRAKE
ENOS .. C
THROUGH
SLOT

WHEN PIN
IS REMOVED
0 STRUT Wil l ROTATE 45 ° CLOCKWISE

Fig. 4-39 . Sheave and spring capsule assembly installs in bracket with brake
spring ends in slots (A). Releasing pin arms starter (B), which can now be
mounted on the engine .

152
 9. Install pawls, springs, and other hardware that might be
present.
10. Insert sheave and spring assembly into bracket, with brake
spring legs in bracket slots (Fig. 4-39).
11 . Feed rope under guide and snub in V-notch.
12. Remove locking pin, allowing strut to rotate clockwise until
retained by bracket.
13. Press or drive center pin home.
14. Mount starter on engine and test.

153
,
 Chapter 5

\., --- '

I. . ...-'"-::~ _- .,,J
-- +
>- - - - -,
I .... - - - - ~
'\
' .... _ - --

Electrical System
At its most developed , the electrical system consists of a charging
circuit, or voltage source, and a starting circuit, or primary load
(Figs. 5- 1 and 5-2). Secondary loads, such as lights and
instrumentation, might also be present. An alternator or generator
are the primary elements of the charging circuit, (which also can
contain a regulator, rectifier and fuse). The starting circuit includes
a starter motor, solenoid or relay, and -in nearly all examples-a
battery.
Not all small-engine electrical systems include both circuits.
Some dispense with the starting circuit and others employ a start-
ing circuit without provision for onboard power generation.

START ING CIRCUITS

Starting circuits fall into two groups: de (direct current) systems
that are powered by 12 or 6V batteries, and ac (alternating current)
systems that are fed directly through a 120 Vac line. Most de
systems employ lead-acid batteries that, with rare exceptions, are
replenished by an engine-driven charging circuit . Nicad batteries
must be recharged before use and so depend upon household cur-
rent to provide the necessary energy.

Batteries
Outright ba ttery failure-zero cranking voltage afte r

155
_...
0,
0)

ST A RT SWI T C H
"" r<::-·

FUSE

""
IGNI TION
·,
SPARK P L UG

~
12 VO LT
BATT E RY
Fig. 5-1 . Electrical system used on
Onan engines ties into coil and bat-
COIL
' "ia'.·fit.·_
' tery ignition. Starter operates by way
of solenoid .
COND E NSER A MMETE R

.
B RE AKE R POI NT S
\
SPARK PLUG ,;·~-
-
CONN ECTOR

CO NNECTO R
 IGNITION
SWITCH

12V
BATTERY

STARTER
- REGULATOR
SOLEN OID
..l

TO MAGNETO ~ 12V
GROUND LEAD BATTERY
KEY SWITCH
y

Fig. 5-2. Briggs & Stratton 1OA system combines magneto ignition with ac-
cessory tap for lights.

charging-is no problem to troubleshoot. But partial failure,

characterized by some loss of battery capacity, can be more diffi-
cult to pinpoint. The battery is the connection point between charg-
ing and starting circuits, and either circuit could be at fault.
However, the battery is usually the culprit and the first order of
business is to charge the battery and test its output.
Lead-Acid. The lead-acid storage battery is the most popular
type. It can be recharged several hundred times and maintains its
charge fairly well, declining by 1 percent or 2 percent a day. On
the other hand, lead-acid batteries lose capacity when cold, drop-
ping to less than 70 percent of normal at 32 °F. and, even at best,
are able to convert only a tiny fraction of charging current to stored
energy. T hese batteries contain fairly concentrated solutions of
sulfuric acid and give off hydrogen gas, especially during charg-
ing. The combination of a corrosive liquid and an explosive gas is

157
hazardous . Warning: Wear safety glasses when servicing a lead-
acid battery. To prevent sparks, disconnect the battery charger
before charger-to-battery connections are made or broken. Test as
follows:

1. Open battery-cable connections and scrape connectors and

terminals to bright metal. Check cable-to-ground and cable-to-
starter connections. Remove any rust, corrosion, or paint deposits
present. Secure all cable connections.
2. Verify that electrolyte level covers plates in each cell.
Secure the caps.
3. Clean battery top with a mixture of baking soda, detergent,
and water. Rinse with fresh water and wipe dry.
4. Charge the battery, using a taper charger (i.e., a regulated
charger that reduces output as battery approaches full charge). Note
that charging releases hydrogen gas.
5. Fill battery cells with distilled water (as necessary).
6. T est each cell with a temperature-compensated hydrometer
(Fig. 5-3). Replace the battery if hydrometer readings average less
than 1.225 or if individual cell readings vary by more than 0.050.
7. Connect voltmeter across battery terminals (Fig. 5-4).

Fig. 5-3. Use a hydrometer to determine specific gravity of each battery cell :
100% = 1.260 to 1.280; 75% charge = 1.230 to 1.250; 5-% charge = 1.200
to 1.220; 25% charge = 1.170 to 1.190; complete discharge = 1.11 Oto 1.130.
Specific gravity readings are referenced to 80°F electrolyte temperature. Add
0.004 for each 10° F over 80° and subtract 0.004 for each 10° below 80° .

158
Fig. 5-4 . A fully charged 12V battery should deliver at least 9.5V during a 1O-
to 15-second discharge through the starter. A 6V battery should maintain a
minimum of 4 .5V during the same test. Lower than specified cranking voltages
usually can be traced to the battery, although the starter motor, its wiring and
even parasitic engine loads can increase the current draw and cost voltage.

8. Disable the ignition, energize the starter motor, and

observe the voltmeter.

Caution: Small-engine starter motors are intended for brief,

intermittent service and must not be operated for more than 10
seconds continuously. Allow 60-second cool-down period between
each I O-second cranking episode.

9. Cranking voltage should remain above 9.5V (12V systems)

or 4.5V (6V). Lower readings mean a defective battery or starter
circuit.

Nicad. Nickel-cadmium battery packs are supplied by Briggs

& Stratton, Tecumseh, Toro, and other manufacturers as part of
a starting system that consists of 12V motor, switch, and 120Vac
battery charger (Fig. 5-5). T hese batteries are based on an entirely
different chemistry than conventional storage batteries and require
159
special handling and maintenance procedures. Other elements of
the system do not interchange with more conventional hardware.
An ordinary battery charger cannot be used to recharge nicad
batteries, nor can a standard 12V starter or automotive ignition
switch be easi ly substituted.
Warning: Nicad batteries have potential for harm. Basic
precautions include extreme care in handling and disposal.
Cadmium, visible as a white powder on leaking cells, is a persist-
ent poison. Do not incinerate and avoid welding on or around the
battery pack.
While the charger can be plugged in continuously, battery (and
charger) life will be extended if charging is limited to a 12-hour
or 16-hour period just prior to use. This should fully replenish the
battery pack with energy for 30 to 40 engine starts. Deep discharge
should also be avoided. When the unit is in storage , batteries should
be charged for 12 to 16 hours once every two months. Do not charge
when ambient temperature drops below 40 ° F (4 ° C).
Weak starter response when connected to a freshly charged
battery pack can mean any of the following problems:
• Faulty battery charger.
• Defective starter motor or switch circuit.

STOP
SWITCH -

Fig . 5-5. Typical nicad system used by Briggs & Stratton .

160
 GREEN

RED
3/ 4 "
( 19.05 mm)
#3-48
#6-32 (m2.5 X 0 .45)
'\ (m3.5 X 0.6) SCREW
SCREW 5/ 16"
PUSH
' _,___
--- )
----' IN
(8.2 mm)
CHARGER
r, '
\,... , / DIODE GREEN
---
c..- - - . 1
I ) .... -.... ____ .1'
,---.,__---,

...---0-.....--_,, I
BULB

I
\
' ...... -- - --- ......

Fig. 5-6. This charger tester, designed by Briggs & Stratton, requires one IN4005
diode, two Oialco lamp sockets (red No. 0931-102 and green No. 0932-102)
two No. 53 bulbs, one 6-32, 3/4-inch screw and one 3-48, 3/4-inch screw. These,
or equivalent, parts are available at electronic supply stores. A battery charger
in good condition will light the green lamp only. A c harger with an open diode
will light the red bulb and one with a shorted diode will light both bulbs.

• E ngine bind.
• Defective battery pack.

In general, if the charger becomes warm when plugged in, it

is operating properly. Output is variable, depending upon battery
charge, but after two or three hours the battery s hould draw
something on the order of 80 m.A. T ecumseh supplies a test
meter-part No. 670235- fo r the 32659 Nicad charger. I do not
know whether this meter can be used with competitive chargers.
Briggs & Stratton suggests that the technician construct his own
tester, to indicate whether the charger diode is open or shorted (Fig .
5-6).
Parasitic loads are detected by turning the flywheel by hand.
T he usual cause is a dragging brake or clutch. M ore ominous
possibilities include hydrostatic lock a nd wiped engine bearings.
The most common fault is refusal of the Nicad battery to take
a full charge. After 16 hours on the charger, battery potential should

161
register no less than 15.5V and should not be greater than 18V.
Assuming that static (motor switched off) voltage is within these
limits, the next step is to measure battery capacity. This amounts
to a controlled discharge, achieved by shunting output leads across
a load. One technique, suggested by T ecumseh, is to connect a 1.4
ohm ( ± 10 percent), 150W resistor across the output. With the
starter disconnected , discharge the battery through the resistor for
2 minutes. Check output voltage with a 10,000-20,000 ohm/volt
voltmeter. Battery voltage at the end of the test should be at leas t
9V.
Another approach is to use two No. 4001 sealed-beam
head lamps with the terminals soldered together as shown in Fig.
5-7. When connected to a fresh battery pack, buJbs should burn
brightly for 6 minutes (Tecumseh) or 5 minutes (Briggs & Stratton).
Briggs suggests that a voltmeter, connected across the two lamp
terminals, should s how 13.SV minimum after 1 minute-with 13V
or less indicating a s horted cell.
These tests, whether us ing a resistor or headlamps, are one-

TEST: - - - - - MODIFIED CABLE

BULBS MUST BURN #32724
FOR 6 MINUTES
MI NIMUM

2-SEALED BEAM
BULBS NO. 4001

Fig. 5-7. Perhaps the easiest way to check nicad output is to discharge the
battery pack through two headlamps. The hookup shown uses a modified bat-
tery to starter motor cable.

162
shot affairs and cannot be repeated until the battery is charged for
another 14 to 16 hours.

Starter Motors
A mechanic can expect to encounter a variety of starter motors,
sometimes interchangeable between engine makes and models, but
more often specific to the engine at hand. Major manufacturers
include American Bosch, European Bosch, Bendix, Briggs &
Stratton, Mitsuibishi, Motor Products, and T ecumseh. Motors fall
into the following three basic groups:

de-Lead-Acid Battery. Rated at 6V to 12V, these motors

are generally two-pole (brush) designs with electromagnetic fiefds.
Figure 5-8 illustrates one type, differing from most only by the use
of tubular insulators over the through-bolts. Figure 5-9 shows a
Bendix starter , used on a variety of engines, including some of Jap-
anese manufacture. Figure 5-10 shows yet another variation. While
some early motors employed solenoid, or linear motor drive, most
modem designs rely upon an inertial clutch, or " Bendix," to engage
the pinion with the flywheel.
dc-Nicad Battery. Representing a later generation than
lead-acid types, these 12V units typically employ permanent-magnet
fields, end-cap brush mounting and individualized housings,
designed to fit a narrow range of engines. Figure 5-11 show a Nicad
starter in various stages of disassembly.
ac - External Power S upply. The distinguishing feature
of 120Vac motors is a rectifier mounted on the housing that converts
line voltage to pulsating de, which registers on a meter as about
15V less than the ac input. A four-pole , permanent-magnet field
unit for large displacement engines is s hown in Fig. 5-12. This
starter is also available in a 12V version. Note that the Bendix mech-
anism is secured with a compression pin (Fig. 5-13).
Preliminary Tests. T um the flywheel through several
revolutions by hand to verify that the engine is free. Using heavy
jumper cables, connect a " hot" battery to the motor terminal and
an engine ground, observing correct polarity. Control circuitry for
120Vac motors can be shunted in the same manner, using an
extension cord. However, this procedure involves extreme and
potentially lethal electroshock hazard , and I do not recommend it.
If the motor is shorted , the engine and whatever the engine is
attached to will be hot.

163
~

0)
.i:i,.
PINION GEAR DRIVE HEAD END CAP

HELIX

~~@)

THRU BOLT
llHHINC=============:~
HOUS ING
AN D FIELD COILS. END
0 CAP
0

THR UST 0
WA SHER
INSUL ATING
THR UST WA SH ER <2>
ARMAT URE

INSUL ATI NG TUBE

Fig . 5-8. Briggs & Stratton 12Vdc starter employs electromagnetic (EM) field coils , thrust washer on drive end of motor shaft and insulating
washer at communtator. Note the use of tubular insulators· over through-bolts.
Fig . 5-9. Bendix 12Vdc motor with thrust washer at drive end and EM coils.
This motor is used on a number of American and foreign-made engines.

Brush
End
Cap
~
.., ,,
,::,
Detail
Permanent
0 '
\. ,
"!."or,,
··"
... ~
Magnets
·~ (J '.11(.,Q

' Y· .I_ ~h~

\ .
-... ......
-... -...
......
.....
..... I
.....
Ai,,.
""'< ' - ...,
- , I Dust
~{) 1($9 . . . . . . . ,/ ~~~~
Drive
End Cap ·
(bt Ty e)

Thru Bolt
' ~ .j

Drive Pinion Pinion

Shield Anti-Drift Stop
Retainer Spring Nut

Fig. 5-10. American Bosch 12Vdc starter used on Kohler and other large engines
employs permanent magnet (PM) fields and radial communtator with brushes
parallel to motor shaft.

165
 0

r - LOCK NUTS

COMMUTATOR
THR US T WASHER

"E"' CLIP

. 11?~
~o,
/

DRIVE ASSY .

I NSURE BRUSH
SPRI N GS ARE I NSTALLED BEHIND
BRUSHES

SPACE BRUSHES
TO GUIDE END CAP
OVER COMMUTATOR

Fig . 5-11 . Tecumseh nicad end caps are assembled on motor housing with
two through-bolts (A). Bendix drive assembly is secured on shaft with E-clip
(8 ). Brushes, which are replaceable only as part of the end cap assembly, must
be carefully shoehorned over communtator (C). Thrust washer mounts on com-
muntator end of motor shaft. This particular motor should draw 20A while crank-
ing the engine 415 rpm (with lube oil at 70 ° F) .

166
 PINION __
ENDCAP_~Q
GEAR 12 V \:.•b-- - - - -
THAUT
WASHER ........
INSULATING~
WASHER
120V ONLY
()

END _....i;
HEAD ARMATURE-----1_..

END -4...,..:'1;::::!~::=:::::::::;__::~
THAU
CAP
BOLTS
120V

Fig. 5-12. Briggs & Stratton 120Vac starter used on 17-through-32-cubic inch
engines. (A 12V version is available.) The insulating washer is a safety feature
that must be installed as shown .

A healthy starter should spin the flywheel 350 rpm or so with

the spark plug installed. Possible malfunctions include:

• Motor runs free without engaging flywheel. Check Bendix

drive for dirt accumulations, broken parts.
• Motor runs, Bendix " machineguns" in and out. Check
Bendix pinion and flywheel ring gears for interference.

167
 • Motor runs but slowly. Check engine ignition timing (if
variable), motor bearing side play, motor shaft s traightness,
pinion/flywheel clearance (usually specified as 1/16 inch between
tip of pinion tooth and root of flywheel tooth) commentator ,
armature, and fields.
• Motor does not run ; no spark when jumper connection is
broken. Open circuit, and check brushes and brush connections.
• Motor does not run , and there is a spark when the jumper
connection is broken-short circuit that, at best , may be confin ed
to brush feed circuit. If armature or fie lds are involved, it is usually
advisable to replace the motor.

Service. Approach starter work with discretion , disassembling

the unit no further than necessary to make the repair. In addition
to the usual hand tools, you should have access to a voltohmmeter
and a growler to check the armature. Bushings made from s intered

0 BR USHE S

()

Sheet Metal Brush Brush Holder in Place

Holder Tool Over Brushes and End Cap

Fig. 5-13. Brush hold-down straps for four-pole unit (A) and for two-pole radial
armature (B).

168
 REST RETAINER IN DRIVE WITH
"V" BLOCK 1/8" PIN PUN CH
EITHER TO
REMO VE OR

~ST
:LL

3"
(76.2 mm)

Fig . 5-14. Shaft must be supported while driving out and installing compres-
sion pin . Also note that beveled side of pinion gear-shown clearly in previous
figure-must be assembled toward flywheel gear.

bronze-recognized by their cobbley appearance-require 20W

motor oil. Conventional "hard" bushings like a light high-
temperature grease such as Lubriplate. Interior parts should be
cleaned with MEK or one of the aerosol products sold for electrical
work. Use these chemicals with care and observe the warnings on
the label. Crucial components include:
End Caps. Mark end caps and starter housing with a pin
punch as an assembly aid.
Brus hes. Most starter problems originate with the brushes
that wear short and bind against the sides of their holders or that
are propelled by insufficient spring tension. Older starters employed
screw-type brush terminals for ease of replacement. Newer designs
employ soldered terminals, occasionally silver soldered. A few
starters, including the one shown in Fig. 5-11, employ integral
brushes that must be replaced with the end cap as an assembly.
Brush assembly tools are sometimes necessary (Fig. 5-13).
Clutch. Most often secured to the motor shaft with a
conventional right-hand nut, a few have been built with left-hand
threads. When a roll pin is used , secure the motor shaft in a Vee-
block as shown in Fig. 5-14.
Bus hings . Do not disturb bushings unless they are visibly
worn. The Bendix-end bushing is usually in an open boss and can

169
be driven out from behind; the commutator bus hing is a nother
matter because standard practice is to press the bushing into the
closed end cap. It may be collapsed with a small chisel or , more
elegantly, can be forced out with hydraulic pressure. Fill the bushing
ID with heavy grease. Obtain a rod that exactly matches motor shaft
diamete r and hammer the rod into the bushing recess. Impacted
grease will lift the bushing out of its bore.
Thrus t Bearing. The motor shaft thrust passes through the
commutator shoulder and into the end cap. One or more spacer
washers one or the other e nd of shaft absorb wear and compensate
for manufacturing tolerances to hold endplay in the 0.006-0.008-inch
range. Bearing houses stock the necessary spacer washers.
Warning: nylon washers used on some motors are crucial and
on 120Vac machines they are a safety-related item. Washers must
be in good repair and installed as originally found. See Figs. 5-8
and 5-12.
Commutator. With brus hes out of the circuit, use a
continuity lamp or ohmmeter to verify that:

• Paired commutator bars adjacent to the brus h holders have

continuity. Rotate the armature to test each pair individually.

Fig. 5-15. Testing American Bosch radial commutator for shorts to motor shaft.
(Courtesy Onan .)

170
Fig . 5-16. A shorted armature windings cause thin metal strip to vibrate when
assembly is magnetized on a growler. (Courtesy Onan.)

• No bar pair has continuity with other commutator bars or

with the motor s haft (Fig. 5-15).

Reddish-brown discoloration on the brush track is normal and

means that the brushes are seating properly. Polish out small
imperfections with 000 sandpaper. Do not use emory cloth. More
serious faults, including out of round, deep scores and burns can
sometimes be corrected by dressing the commutator on a lathe.
Afterwards, insulation should be cut out from between the segments
for brush clearance with a jeweler's file. Before proceeding with
these operations, make certain the commutator bars are thick
enough to tolerate dressing. Many modem designs-including radial
types with brushes parallel to the motor shaft-cannot be
remachined.
Armature. The continuity test, described in the previous
section, can be used to detect gross fau lts. Other indications of
trouble are " thrown " solder, sometimes adhering to the motor
housing ID, cooked insulation and severe pitting between adjacent
commutator segments. A " growler" will respond to internal,
winding-to-winding shorts that escape other tests (Fig. 5-16).
Although a moisture-shorted armature can sometimes be

171
revived by heating it for several hours in an oven at 250 ° or so,
most armature faults can only be corrected by rewinding.
Unfortunately, rewinding small armatures is expensive (even when
you can find someone willing to do it). Purchasing a new armature
is usually the best solution .
F ie lds . American Bosch PM fields glued in place should be
inspected for signs of separation and cracks that can develop from
mishandling (e.g., overtightening motor housing in a vise) or from
armature contact. Electromagnetic fields generally are subject to
all the ills of electrical components (Fig. 5-17), and may suffer
contact with the armature if bearings are loose or motor shaft is
bent. EM fields are secured by flat-head screws that usually must
be loosened with an impact driver. Before dismantling, it is a good
idea to check of parts availability. Replacement coils are never easy
to obtain and are not always listed as separate items for recent
motors. In other words, you might have to purchase a new motor
housing.
Rectifie r. Mounted on or near 120Vac motor housings, the
rectifier assembly converts alternating line current to de and usually
incorporates the starter motor switch. Figure 5-18 shows a typical
unit in schematic form. Diodes are mounted in pairs on heat sinks.

- OH MM ETER

Fig . 5-17. Tracing field continuity with an ohmmeter establishes that circuits
have continuity. Shorts, either to motor housing or between field windings , re-
quire special equipment to detect.

172
 BLACK
- - - . ./LEAD

(C)~i.---+---+1--+-t.11 ...
-4
0
V
~(G)

(E)
(0) O.C. OUTPUT
THYRECTOR

MOTOR
HOUSING
RED LEAD GROUND

ARMA- SEE TE XT
TURE FOR LE TTE R
EXPLANAT ION

BLACK LEAD

Fig. 5-18. Control box, mounted on or near 120LVac starter motor, contains
motor switch, full-wave solid-state rectifier assembly and, on Tecumseh designs,
a thyrector.

The thyrector is a Tecumseh feature that, while normally an

insulator, conducts to ground when design voltage is exceeded in
order to protect rectifiers from ac voltage surges. T he unit
illustrated can be opened for repair and replacement of individual
components. Test rectifiers for unidirectional conductivity: connect
one lead from an ohmmeter to the rectifier lead and the other lead
to the housing. Note the meter reading and reverse connections.
The rectifier should conduct in one direction and block current in
the other. Check the thyrector to a 7.5W lamp and a 115Vac power
line in series. If the lamp glows, the thyrector is bad.
Most connections are soldered and excessive heat will dam-
age diodes and thyrector. Use alligator clips for heat sinks and mon-
itor temperature by holding your finger to the component. If you
can stand it, so can the part.
Briggs & Stratton units are partially encapsulated (although
rectifiers can be replaced as a separate assembly). Figure 5-19
illustrates the basic tes t hookup. When the unit is working prop-
erly, it delivers no less than 14V below line voltage across a 10,000
ohm, 1W resistor. Diodes are checked as indicated in Fig. 5-20.
173
 A MPERE TE ST

WATCH FOR
ENGAGEMENT
OF PINION
GEAR

DEPRESS
PUSHBUTTON
GROUNDED
PLUG

Fig . 5- 19. Although this test looks complicated, it merely verifies that de volt-
age to motor is no more than 14 or 15V below ac input voltage .

• DC TERMINAL
AC TERMINAL

Fig. 5-20. Diodes can be checked with an ohmmeter (as illustrated here) on
a Briggs & Stratton control box .

174
 Solenoid and Relay . Although the Bendix-type inertial drive
is by far the most popular, a few designers continue to use solenoid
engagement (Fig. 5-21). A solenoid is a remotely operated linear
motor that, in this application, closes contacts to provide power to
the starter motor and almost simultaneously moves the pinion gear
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear. Solenoid failures are
usually traceable to dirt in the lever mechanism, bad control switch
contacts, or bad solenoid contacts. Test the contacts by jumping
battery power directly to the starter motor.
A relay is a solenoid that does not perform mechanical work
(such as moving a pinion gear into mesh). In other words , a relay
is merely the switching part of a solenoid. Because of the power
loss and expense of long battery cables, relays are used to energize
the starter motor in applications that combine Bendix drive with
a remotely mounted starter switch. A relay has at least three
connections: a heavy cable from the battery, a second heavy cable
to the starter, and a small diameter wire to the remote switch. A
second small diameter wire may be connected to ground. In any
event, the test procedure is the same. Using a short length of battery
cable, jump the two cable connections at the relay. The starter
should energize and engage the flywheel.

START BUTT O N

STARTING
S TARTER M O TOR
P I N IO N
-

:(1
OVE R -
R U NN I N G
CLUTC H
II I I
SHIFT A RM II I I

SOLE N OID

Fig. 5-2 1. A few starter motors employ a solenoid that acts as both a relay
to energize the starter and as a linear motor to move the pinion gear into mesh
with the flywheel gear.

175
 REGULATOR
LIGHTS
-- ....
5'WITCH

TO POSITIVE SIDE OF
COl FOR BATTERY
IGNITKJN ONLY

' .. B
START _,,,,, ,,,
5'WITCH /
(KEY OR
BUTTON)
-
'I

----MOTOR
GENERATOR

Fig. 5-22 . Mechanically, motor-generators are similar to starter motors. The

tricky part is the wiring.

Motor-Generator
Delco-Remy builds a belt-driven combination starter motor and
generator that can be ordered as an accessory for horizontal
crankshaft engines. Figure 5-22 illustrates a typical hookup that
em ploys key starting and has provision for a optional battery
ignition. With the exception of ignition, all accessory loads must
be taken from the battery terminal (marked " B" or " Batt") at the
voltage regulator. This particular system carries a 14A rating. With
battery ignition, which draws about 3A, subtracted, 1 lA are
available for accessories. Seven-amp systems are also encountered.
Assuming that drive belt and ,viring are functional, starting
problems might originate with wiring, key switch, relay (all of which
may be checked with a jumper), or the motor-generator itself.
Troubleshoot the latter as you would any other starter motor.
176
 Generator problems are a little more difficult to define because
both motor-generator and voltage regulator are prime suspects.
The initial test is to place an ammeter in series with the wire
leading to the B regulator terminal, one meter lead to the terminal
and the other to the wire, which carries charging current to the
positive battery pole. Run the engine about 2000 rpn1 and observe
the meter. Some charge should be indicated, depending upon the
state of charge of the battery and the accessory load. With no charge
or excessively high charge-l0A or more with a healthy battery-
call for a second test to discriminate between the generator and
regulator.
Motor-generators have insulated fields. The unit should put out
full rated amperage when the fields are grounded. Disconnect the
field (" F " ) regulator terminal and ground the lead from the
generator to the engine. Run the engine at no more than 2000 rpm.
Higher speeds and resultant outputs could damage an otherwise
healthy armature. If output is zero or minuscule, the motor-
generator is defective. If output is l0A or more, the motor-generator
can be assumed good and, almost by definition, the regulator is
shorted.

CURRENT
VOLTAGE
REGULATOR

JJMPER
WI~

Pt«JTOR
GENERATOR

Fig. 5-23. Motor-generator may need to be polarized when a new voltage

regulator is installed or after long storage with the battery out of the circuit.

177
 Fig . 5-24. Basic charging
system consists of low volt-
age stator windings and
load, which in this case is
a headlamp.
USE 12 TO 14
GAUGE WIRE -- 1

11•·

Although the most common regulator ailment-sticking

contacts-can sometimes be corrected with a point file, it is usually
better to replace a faulty unit. A replacement unit must be polarized
by momentarily connecting the B regulator terminal with the motor-
genera tor armature (as shown in Fig. 5-23).

CHARGING SYSTEMS
Occasionally a mechanic will still encounter a direct current
charging system, similar to the generator half of the motor-
generator system shown in Fig. 5-22. However, direct-current
generators have been almost universally replaced with flywheel
alternators that, as the name indicated, produce alternating current.
Output of the more powerful units is controlled by a solid-state
regulator and, when a battery is present in the circuit, converted
to de by means of a rectifier.
Figure 5-24 shows a vestigial charging circuit, used by Clinton,
to power a headlamp or other accessories. A pair of charging coi ls
mount on the ignition coil armature and receive power from 10 small
flywheel magnets. Because the accessory load does not discriminate
between ac and de, no rectifier is necessary. Output can be checked
with a PR 12 flashlight bulb connected across the "hot" and ground
wires. Remove the spark plug and crank the engine. The system
works if the bulb glows.
Figure 5-25 illustrates the next stage of development. T he same
paired lighting coils and flywheel magnets are present, but output
passes through a selenium rectifier, which converts ac to de by
imposing high resistance on current flow in one direction. Part of
the rectified output goes to the accessories and the remainder to
replenish the battery.
178
 One interesting feature of the circuit is the selen ium rectifier
(shown between the terminal block and the alternator). Today, al-
most all charging systems rectify by means of one or more silicon
diodes that, while mechanically fragile and hypersensitive to
polarity reversal, are inexpensive. To check the selenium type, tag
and disconnect the fou r wires going to it. Connect the ohmmeter
or continuity lamp leads between a center and side terminal. Note
the meter response and reverse leads. The associated rectifier plate
should conduct in one direction and resist current flow in the other.
Repeat the test for the remaining pair of terminals. Check the
alternator output voltage between both of the ac terminals and
ground with the B wire disconnected.
Figure 5-26 shows a variation on the theme , this time a fuse,
a heavy-duty key switch, and a si licon diodes are used. Check the
fuse and fuse holder for continuity and test-system voltage output.
Disconnect the battery wire at the B + rectifier panel terminal and
connect an alternator between this terminal and ground. Because
the system is unregulated, voltage increases with engine rpm. This
particular T ecumseh 3A cir cuit should deliver at least 12V at 2,500
rpm , 16V a_t 3,300, and 18V at maximum governed speed of 3,800
rpm. Note that not all unregulated charging circuits are designed
to operate at these relatively high voltages and can be functioning
normally when max output is on the order of 11 .5V.
Check diodes for this and other systems with ohmmeter or

Fig. 5-25. Clinton adapts the same system for battery charging with a selenium
rectifier in series with alternator output.

179
 ENGINE MAGNETO GROUNO

STARTING
MOTOR

HEAVY OUTY
KEY SWITCH
Off-MAG. OIOOES
TO GROUND
RUN-MAG. OPEN
START BAT.
TO STARTER

M.
B.
+ BAT. FUSE
--

- I BATTERY
+

Fig. 5-26. Tecumseh and most other manufacturers employ silicon diodes for
rectification. A manual switch engages the starter motor and a fuse protects
stator windings from excessive current draw.

continuity lamp. A good diode conducts in one direction only, a

shorted diodes conducts in both directions (usually ruining the
battery in the process), and an open diode conducts in neither
direction.
At this point I have discussed alternator-only and alternator-
with-rectifier circuits. T hese circuits, rated between 14 and 30A,
employ a solid-state regulator-rectifier encapsulated in epoxy or
housed in a fi nned aluminum box (Fig. 5-27). In the standard format,
three wires go to the unit: the two outboard wires from the
alternator stator (sometimes marked ac) and the center, or B, wire
to the battery. The regulator-rectifier is grounded through one or
more hold-down screws.
Note : Check wiring arrangement because older and foreign-
made units can vary from the standard format.
Solid-s tate electronics have become more reliable in recent
years, but remain vulnerable to damage during service operations.
Observe these prohibitions:

• Do not reve rse battery polarity. Only a s mall minority of

180
regulator-rectifiers include a blocking diode to protect against this
mishap.
• Make certain regulator-rectifier hold -downs are securely
ground to engine (if necessary with a jumper wire).
• Disconnect the wiring harness at the regulator-rectifier
before arc welding on engine-grounded equipment.
• Do not short alternator stator leads together or to ground.
• Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.

The previous point needs amplification. While there are

exceptions, most regulator-rectifiers will suffer irreversible dam-
age if the battery-that serves as a voltage-limiter- is ren1oved from
the circuit. This means that the open-circuit B + output test, de-
scribed fo r the charging circuits previously discussed, cannot be
used. However, ac leads from the alternator can be disconnected
at the regulator-rectifier for voltage checks.

OPT IONAL VOLTAGE

REGULATOR

STANDARD
VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Fig. 5-27. Onan charging systems may use plastic encapsulated regulator-
rectifier or familiar aluminum unit, heavily finned for cooling. In either case ,
ac leads are outboard with B + tap in the center.

181
 MAGNETO~
SHUT OFF ~ A.C.

I
STARTING MOTOR
A.C.

I
~
CHARGING COILS

SOLID STATE
KEY SWITCH REGULATOR
OFF MAGNETO TO GROUND RECTIFIER
RUN MAGNETO OPEN
START BATTERY TO STARTER

AMMETER
BATTERY

'I LIGHT ETC. SWITCH

Fig. 5-28. Typical charging system used in conjunction with magneto ignition
on Tecumseh engines. Note that the center wire in the engine connector is
the magneto ground.

Figures 5-28 and 5-29 are reasonably typical wiring diagrams

for magneto and battery-and-coil sparked engines. Battery and
accessories feed from the B + regulator-rectifier terminal in all
cases.
Test values vary with make and model (although a general
description remains possible). The primary situation is no charge
or insufficient battery charge. If necessary, further discharge the
battery with a headlamp or other load to drop terminal voltage to
12.5V. Start the engine with the same load connected and run for
a few moments at 2500, 3000, and 3600 rpm. If voltage across
battery terminals increases, the system can be declared functional.
If voltage does not increase, connect the voltmeter across the ac
leads to the regulator-rectifier as shown in Fig. 5-30. Note that the
regulator-rectifier remains connected to both alternator and battery.
Run the engine at full governed speed and observe voltage readings.
Most alternators are good if about twice rated voltage-23 to 27V-
develops between stator leads. If voltage is lower the stator is faulty.

182
 APPLICATION DIAGRAM ENGINE DIAGRAM
Add Amme ter
For Test Purposes

Key
Switch Fuse
Onl y
i !O ~ :r
AC
Rectifier
Regulator

Oft Run Start (Optional)

I , I

30 amp buss AGS 30 Automatic

fuse or equivalent. Plug Plug Choke Fly wheel
C A UT ION: Fuse holder Alternator
must be same or g reater ----1---~-
I
- I_,_
·;;
rating than fuse. ' / .
Fuse I - -
I
B + lead shou ld be I Shutdown
14 GA. 125°C L __ __ _____ .JL- -;, Control
insulation or I ~ .
Ammeter I ,
equivalent.
I
I
I ~ - - - - - - -- - ---,

Solenoid 7
Spark 7

Plugs
T
C oll
12 Volt
~ Starter Points
Battery
;

Condenser
t
~

~ Fig. 5-29. Kohler wiring makes provision for coil and battery ignition , automatic choke, and starter solenoid.
 INSERT Pf!OBES INTO
CONNECTOR SLOTS.
00 NOT REMOVE
CONNECTOR WIRES.

-----
•I J
...........
A.C. VOLTMETER

CAUTION: BLOWER HOUSING

MUST BE INSTALLED WHEN
RUNNING ENGINE

Fig. 5-30. Because most regulator-rectifiers do not tolerate battery disconnects

and because ac tests described here require that the regulator-rectifier remain
in circuit, test leads must be piggybacked to terminals. Insert test probes into
connector slots without disconnecting the associated wiring. This regulator-
rectifier mounts inside the blower housing that must be removed for access.
Blower housing is reinstalled before startup and regulator-rectifier should be
grounded at hold-down bolt.

If voltage is higher, the regulator-rectifier should be replaced.

Chronic overcharge can be detected by checking voltage output
at full governed rpm across the battery terminals. Output should
not exceed 14 .7V and may comfortably be lower. Check ac volt-
age for a high reading that would point to a defective regulator-
rectifier.

184
 Chapter 6

;:rr,~-,,_.....,--nn..:.~
.
.. ( , I

'

Engine Mechanics
Serious engine work involves some appreciation of mechanical
theory, a nun1ber of specialized skills, and complete factory
specifications for the engine at hand. Theory is necessary in order
to understand why a component has failed. It is not enough to
n1erely replace a broken connecting rod . You should be able to
identify and correct the underlying cause of failure that, in this case,
might involve the lubrication system, the governor mechanism, or
connecting rod bolt locks.
The skills required include how to install a piston without
breaking the rings, how to use reamers and other cutting tools and
how to fit bearings. The British term "engine fitter" is appropriate
because most engine work comes down to fitting parts to very
precise clearances. And while this precision can be generalized
about-for example, mos t small engines require 0.0015 of an inch
running clearance between the crankpin and connecting rod
bearing-there is no substitute for detailed, complete, and current
factory specifications. If, for some reason, you cannot obtain a
factory manual for the engine, at least obtain the specifications ,
available from a dealer and compiled in sources s uch as Chilton's
Small Engine Repair.
But books are not enough. The mechanic must, first of all, come
to terms with the engine in question. Study its architecture before
disassembly and during the repair process. Scrupulously cleaning
parts, lingering over them with brush and kerosene, is perhaps more

185
beneficial to the mechanic than to the parts. You need the time to
get the feel of the engine to "think," as Charles Kettering said,
" like a piston." This kind of intuitive thought combined with some
engineering theory, is what being a mechanic is about. We tell
people we repair engines, but really it is a kind of high play only
incidentally related to the hardware.
While the real work of engine repair centers on accurate fitting,
beginning mechanics are someti mes daunted by the magnitude of
the assembly process. Even the relatively simple utility and
industrial engines discussed consists of hundred parts. There are,
fortunately, some ways around the confusion.
Assen1 bly is, nearly always, the mirror image of disassen1bly.
What you take off first goes on last. Work on a clean, well-lighted
bench and lay out the parts as they are removed from the engine.
If necessary, make sketches of complex assemblies and, as
circumstances permit, work in stages. Refurbish the cylinder head
before the cranks haft is extracted. Do not disassemble the
carburetor until the engine is buttoned up,and so on. Nuts, bolts,
and washers should be positioned next to the components they
secure. In addition, make a running notation of work to be done
and replacement parts to be purchased.

DIAGNOSIS
Tum the engine over a few revolutions to detect possible binds
and to establish that the connecting rod has not parted company
with the piston. Excessive drag as the crankshaft is turned can have
many causes, but is usually associated with a bent crankshaft or
a severely galled cylinder bore. The classic symptom of a thrown
rod is effortless rotation to about mid-stroke; then progress stops
with a dull clunk. In severe cases, the crankshaft will have driven
the parted rod end through the s ide of the block.
Some notion of connecting rod bearing wear can be had by gen-
tly rocking the flywheel a few degrees on each side of top dead
center. This determination is made at tdc because crank-
pin/connecting rod bearings are subject to greatest wear at this part
of the stroke and because engine geometry is favorable. During this
part of the stroke, relatively large angular flywheel displacements
are needed to absorb bearing clearances. Increased drag as the fly-
wheel moves off of tdc signals that bearing clearance is taken up
and that the piston is moving. In general, a new engine will have
3 ° or 4 ° of rock between piston movements. Wear may be consid-

186
 ered excessive if the flywheel can be moved 10 ° oetween pis ton
engagements.
Move the flywheel axially (as if you were attempting to puJI
it out by the roots). Main bearing endplay should be about 0.004
inch, or enough to make a "click" as the crankshaft shoulders
against the thrust bearing. Excessive endplay is not, in itself, serious
but it can indicate a generally high level of bearing wear.
Grasp the flywheel with both hands and attempt to push it from
side to side. Radial clearance should be minimal-on the order of
0.02 inch. Much more side play than this means severe wear on
main bearings and possibly the crankshaft. Either or both crankcase
seals may be affected, resulting in oil leaks (four-cycle engines) or
air leaks (two-cycles).
Next check crankshaft straightness. A rough and ready way
to do this is to visually track the crankshaft centering holes-
chamfered holes drilled in both ends of the crankshaft-while the
flywheel is spun. Remove the spark plug(s) and check the pto end
first; it is more likely to be bent. The centering hole should track
in a true circle without perceptible wobble. Repeat the operation
on the flywheel end. Loose mounting bolts and enlarged engine
shroud bolt holes are secondary indications of crankshaft problems.
Mechanics traditionally make a compression test before
embarking on major repairs. However, many small engines,
including Briggs & Stratton and Kohler singles (except K 91),
incorporate a compression release on the exhaust valve. The Briggs
unit is engaged by the starter and the Kohler design employs
centrifugal weights to keep the valve from making a gas-tight seal
below 600 rpm. In either case, the engine must be spun backwards
for meaningfuJ compression readings. Kohler suggests that a gauge
pressure of 90 to 100 psi is normal after seven or eight successive
compression strokes. Briggs & Stratton gives no compression
specification, but says that the flywheel should rebound when spun
backwards with the spark plug in place.
Engines without automatic compression release mechanisms
can be tested as follows:

• Remove spark plug and ground ignition.

• Install a compression gauge in cylinder-head spark plug
boss. A 14mm threaded gauge adapter is more convenient than the
friction type (Fig. 6-1).
• Open throttle and choke full wide.

187
Fig. 6-1 . A compression test is a fairly reliable barometer of engine condition ,
but best results can be had with a compression history made once every six
months or so as part of routine maintenance.

• Spin flywheel at normal starting speed.

• Record gauge reading on the seventh compression stroke.

At this point, preliminary inspection is complete and, when-

ever possible, the engine should be started for more detailed
diagnosis. Figure 6-2 and 6-3 show causes of excessive oil
consumption and loss of power in four-cycle engin es. As far as two-
cycles are concerned, excessive oil consumption (that can contribute
to loss of power and overheating) can only be caused by an improper
fuel mixture. Loss of power in two-cycle engines is almost always
traceable to worn piston rings or worn piston and cylinder bore.
Note that while two-cycle engines have excellent oiling systems that
assures a fresh lubricant with each crankshaft revolution , piston
and rings are heavily stressed. These engines fire every revolution
and compress the mixture at both ends of the cylinder bore. Con-
sequently, ring and bore life is somewhat shorter than for equivalent
four-cycle designs.
Engine knocks are usually "spark knocks" that on both engine
types can be traced to improper ignition timing or excessive carbon

188
 Ignition • Must be properly limed so
Ulal spark plug hru at prec1• e
moment (or full power

Spark Plug Gap ·

AdJusl 10 pr oper Cylinder Head •
Val ve • Check lo r setti ng, use r ound Shou Id not be
seat ing , warping', leeler gauge warped. Casket
• ticking Grind s urface mu1t be
and la p to proper
!Ne.
angle.

Valve Sea t· Musi

be ol spec1hrd
Cylinder Hud
angle a nd width. 1,,-"""--- . Bolta . T ighten to
proper torque ,

Valve Guide
Exa mine lo r
~=;K~~:;;.,'-r:::;,..__ _:::::====:;rc::"h Guket
t
Cylinder Head
Mus t
• ear , va rmsh for m perfec t aeaJ
which ma y pre- betwe en cylinder
ve nt proper valve and head.
action,
- fins • Keep clean
to prevent power
Valve Spring 1099 becauae o l
Check lree le ngth, ove r -heat1ng.
must have proper -ii-#-,H-n-·c
tension to close P is ton Rlnga
va lve and hold on P ,s ton rings must
1ea1. b e htted properly
w iU, recommend-
Valve Gap • Must ed end gap to aa·
be adjusted lo eure a ulllcient
prope r gap, pressure on cyl-
inder wall to
transfer heat and
/
Cam Lobe• • Che ck lo r wear , must
a eal high prea -
eure.
be proper 11ie to open va lve lully
to allow complete discharge ol ex - Pis ton P in • Muet
haua t and lnt.ake ol luel. a llow lriclion lree
move ment of con-
necting r od and
piston ,

Pis ton F'tt • Must be fitted to cyl- Connecttng Rod • Match m.u~ mual
inder wi th recomme nded clearance. be matched and COMect ing rod nut.I
lightened to proper torque.

Oil Pas sagu · All oil holu and

passages must be clear to allow
lull lubric a tion lor friction lree
Air Filte r • Should be clean to operauon.
allow e ngine to breath.
Carburetor • Must be se t properly
to ueure proper and e uflicient air
and fue l.

Fig. 6-2. Factors that affect four-cycle engine power output. (Courtesy
Tecumseh .)

189
 V a.I ve Guides
Must be with in Cylinder Wall P'lnls h • Cylinder wall
tolerances to pre- glaze mu s t be broken prior lo In·
vent oil ente ring stalling new piston nngs lO allow
combustaon cham- rings 10 e eat and control oil, a ls o
ber T o prevent acts u r eservoi r ro r oil to lubri-
exhaust gases cate rings and pis ton.
fro m ente rang
crankc ase.

P is ton Rine•
Are to flt • quare -
Brea the n • Mus t lJ to cyli nder wall
operate properly with proper end
to prevent 011 gap and r ing to
from being ex - g roo,e cl~arance .
pe lled o ut o f e n- with tn• lde cha m·
rer to top o f pl• ·
gine . \ ton.

Pis ton F lt • Muat

be within 1peca
Drain Holts • In 141---- fo r prope r o il
b reather box and control and wlplnc
under o il aeals o l excualve oU
muat be c le ar fro m C y 11 D d . r
(mag e nd verti cal wall.
engine) to a llow
oil to return to
c rankcue .
011 PUHlftl
Piston Passages· Mu1t be clear for
Mus t be clear to pro per dl1t r lbu-
allow oil to return llon to load c arry-
to crankcue , Ing bearlnc 1ur-
lacu .

Bearings • Should be to s pec s to

prevent excessive oil spillage and
c a use pressure loss tn pressure Oil F Iiier C a ps • Must ah n ya be
sys tem s. / tight, gasket must be uaed and aeal
perCecl to pre vent 1p11lage out of
Oil cont rol means the e rrectave das - brea ther.
trlbuuon of 011 w1th1n the engine Co r
Cracllnr, free operation and c ont ro l OU Level • Ove rCllllng wi ll Cl UH
to pre vent 011 Crom being burned o r le aJu ng, burning a nd 0 1.l routed apark
lulung at gasket surfac es. plugs .
Ca s ket ~rlacea • Mus t not be Engine Speed • Ex c eulv e • peeda
nic ked, old gasket removed, al ways wall cause excess ave 01I conaumptlon
use ne"' gaskets . by burning a nd lealtlng.

Fig. 6-3. Factors that affect four-cycle oil consumption. (Courtesy Tecumseh.)

190
accumulation in the con1bustion chamber. Mechanical knocks can
have several sources, such a loose flywheel, a worn connecting rod,
worn main bearings, or excessive piston clearance.
Seal leakage on two-stroke engines deserves special mention.
Complete failure of either cranks haft seal means that the engine
will not run because crankcase compression is required to pump
fuel into the cylinder. An experienced mechanic can turn the fl y-
wheel by hand and feel crankcase pressure buildup. Partial seal
failure results in loss of power and possible overheating. The tipoff
is that the engine will demand very rich carburetor settings and
might refuse to run unless the choke is partially or completely shut.
The best approach is to replace both seals at the first s ign of
trouble. Seal test tools-consisting of a squeeze bulb, pressure
gauge and blanking plates for intake and exhaust ports-are
available from some snowmobile dealers. To test, seal the engine
block, pressurize to about 5 psi, and immerse in a tub of solvent.
Seal leaks show as air bubbles around the crankshaft.
Two-cycle engines-particularly low-speed industrial types-
can strangulate from carbon fouling at exhaust ports or the muffler.
Some mufflers can be disassembled for cleaning. Steel (as opposed
to aluminum) units can be soaked in a warm solution of household
lye and water. To clean exhaust ports, remove the muffler or
exhaust pipe, retract the piston below port level, and scrape with
a screwdriver or dull knife (Fig. 6-3). Spin the engine a few times
to clean carbon flakes from the cylinder bore. The spark plug might
foul on first startup if loose carbon is present in the cylinder. See
Fig. 6-4.

SCOPE OF WORK
There are three reasons to go into an engine. The first is to
make a specific and limited repair, such as correcting a centrifugal
governor problem or freeing a stuck exhaust valve. An overhaul
is somewhat more generalized and consists of replacing seals,
gaskets, rings, and, when detachable, connecting rod big-end
bearings. Most shops also reseat the valves on four-cycle engines.
A rebuild is the most ambitious procedure and, done correctly,
involves restoration of every engine and accessory bearing surface
to original specification. Worn parts that cannot be remachined are
replaced. New factory paint and decals top off the job.
A limited repair is in order when the engine experiences a
component failure early in its life. An overhaul could add 30 percent

191
Fig . 6-4 . Two-cycle exhaust ports should be periodically scrapped to remove
carbon deposits. Tecumseh engine shown is typical in that the piston does
not retract below port floors.

or so to the longevity of an otherwise sound powerplant, while a

rebuilt engine is reserved for the worst cases (those that knock or
pump clouds of oil smoke). The crankshaft usually decides the issue.
If the crank is good, other bearing surfaces are probably tolerable,
and you might be able to get by with an overhaul. If the crank is
flat, bent, or otherwise unserviceable, the choice is between a new
engine, a factory short block, or a rebuild of the existing unit. Short
blocks are theoretically less expensive than complete engines and
consist of a new block casting and all internal crankcase parts.

CYLINDER HEAD
Most utility and industrial engines employ demountable cylin-
der heads, sealed with throwaway composition gaskets and secured
to the block by capscrews.
Warning: Composition gaskets employ asbestos as a filler.
Dispose of the gasket in a safe manner. Carefully scrape gasket
remains from the block and head without breathing or ingesting
any dust that is generated.
With the engine at roon1 temperature, remove the capscrews.
192
Note, variations in length such as are present on aluminum-block
Briggs & Stratton engines. Some European makes employ studs
that pass through or around the cylinder barrel and anchor in the
crankcase. These same engines can be equipped with reusable
copper head gaskets. Anneal the gasket by heating with a propane
torch and quenching in oil or water.
Remove carbon deposits from the cylinder head, piston top,
and block. An end-cutting wire brush is the preferred tool (Fig. 6-5),
although a dull knife may also be used on stubborn deposits. Be
careful not to gouge the aluminum or damage the gasket surfaces.
Inspect the spark plug boss for stripped or pulled threads.
Repairs can be made with a 14mm Heli-Coil kit. Check head
distortion with the aid of a surface plate or piece of plate (not
window) glass. The head is considered acceptable if a 0.003-inch
feeler gauge will not pass between bolt holes (Fig. 6-6). Ideally a
warped head should be replaced together with the head bolts. If
the engine is fitted with a single head casting, however, the head
can be reground without serious side effects. Separate head
castings, such as found on horizontally opposed twin-cylinder
engines, may also be ground, but great care must be exercised to
take off equal amounts of metal on both. Tape a piece of medium-

Fig . 6-5. Remove carbon deposits from cylinder head and engine block deck
with an end-cutting wire brush .

193
 Cylinder
Head
"- ~~~

\ Surface
Feeler
Plate
Gauge

Fig. 6-6. Cylinder head flatness should be checked to assure head gasket in-
tegrity. Commercial plate glass can be substituted for the surface plate shown.
(Cou rtesy Kohler.)

grit, wet-or-dry emory paper to the plate glass and, applying

pressure at a point near the center of the head, grind the gasket
s urface. Oil speeds the process. When the gasket surface is
uniformly bright, the head is flat.
Install a new gasket and torque in three equal increments to
specification. Normally, cylinder head bolts are installed dry. Some
mechanics lubricate threads with motor oil or assembly lube. When
a lubricant is used, it is good practice to increase torque 10-15
percent over the fa ctory limit. The torque sequence fo r four-bolt
heads is a simple X pattern. Others are torqued from the center
bolts outward so that the ends of the casting go down last. How-
ever, the factory might make exception to this general rule (as
shown in Fig. 6-7). Consult the factory manual for the engine in
question.

VALVES
Side valves, i.e., those located in the block, are removed and
installed with either of the compressor tools shown in Fig. 6-8.
Rotate the flywheel to seat the valve, insert the compressor under
the valve collar, compress the valve spring, and remove valve locks.
It is good practice to temporarily plug the oil drain hole in the valve
chamber floor to prevent a valve lock from falling in the crankcase.
194
 " I

G)-

=-= ~

- ' .
N O. 1 CYLI NDER N O . 2 CYLINDER

Fig . 6-7. Cylinder-head torque sequence varies with engine make and model.
Onan 843E, 43G and 48G patterns differ between cylinders.

Split locks are almost universal; Tecumseh and , most notably,

Briggs & Stratton use cross pins. Some Briggs models employ one-
piece retainers. See Fig. 6-9. Installation is the reverse of
disassembly. Split locks can be positioned with the aid of grease
and a screwdriver as (shown in B of Fig. 6-8). Professional
mechanics generally prefer to use a magnetic insertion tool such
as Snap-on's CF 771.
When properly secured, split locks will be swallowed by the
collar and will be no longer visible. Briggs' one-piece retainer will
be centered under the collar and the cross pin will be tucked out
of sight under the collar.
A side-valve engine can be serviced without special tools (al-
though the procedure costs something in frustration). Lift the collar
with two flat screwdrivers. The trick is to keep the collar level so
the valve remains seated as the spring compresses. Split locks
should fall or can be knocked free; other types are removed with
long-nosed pliers. Installation is a bit more difficult, and particularly
so when you are working alone. Compress the spring, as before,
and make certain that the valve is seated. Hold pressure on the
screwdrivers with one hand and insert the valve locks. Split keepers
might slip partly out of the valve stem groove, but can be tapped
into place against spring tension.
Overhead valve mechanisms are more accessible and ,
195
 0

COl.LA•

Q
Fig . 6-8. Either a clamp (A) or bridge-type (8) compressor can be used to remove
and install block-mounted valves. The former tool is available from Kohler, the
latter from Briggs & Stratton . Note how split valve locks are spooned into place
with the aid of a grease-coated screwdriver.

consequently, easier to service than side valve units . Detach the

cylinder head and support the head and valves on a wood block
sized to fit the combustion cavity. The purpose of the block is to
prevent valve movement as springs are compressed. Collapse
springs with a crow's foot tool (Fig. 6-10). An alternate disassembly
196
 - + -YALYI
ITIM

-~~ c f
,,..
D

Fig. 6-9. In years past, Briggs & Stratton used a pin-type valve lock. Some later
production employs a slotted retainer (also used by Tecumseh).

technique is to position a large wrench socket over the collar and

rap the socket sharply with a hammer. Impact will simultaneously
compress the valve spring and dislodge split keepers. Assemble
with a crow's foot tool.
Valve springs are often, but not always , interchangeable be-
tween intake and exhaust sides. When springs differ, the heavier
or, as the case may be, double, spring serves the exhaust valve.
Some engines employ springs with closely wound damper coils that
should be assembled on the stationary end of the spring (Fig. 6-11).

RETAINERS HELD BY SPRING

TENSION AGAINST THE CAP RETAINER

VAlVE SPRING
COMPRESSOR TOOL
PART NO. 670237A

Fig . 6-10. Tecumseh overhead valve gear, showing split-type valve locks and
factory spring compressor.

197
 SPRING MUST BE SQUARE

FOR VALVE-IN-HEAD ENGINES

Fig. 6-11 . Damper coils on Tecumseh ohv and other engines should be on
the stationary end of the spring, away from the valve locks.

In other words, the tightly wound coils are positioned farthest away
from the rocket arm or valve lifter.
Valve springs are replaced as a matter of course during an
engine rebuild and should be replaced during a conscientious
overhaul. Weak springs can cause a hard-to-diagnose high-speed
miss and , on ohv designs, can become detached with disastrous
consequences. Nevertheless, original springs can be reused if:

• The spring stands flat.

• The free-standing height meets the manufacturer's
specification.
• There is no evident of stress pitting or contact between
adjacent coils.

Valve nomenclature is illustrated in Fig. 6-12. Inspect intake

and exhaust valves, which incidentally are not interchangeable, for
deep pitting, cracks and stem distortion. Leaks across the valve
face cost compression, a condition signaled by hard starting, loss
of power and , on the intake side, by " pop back" through the
carburetor.
Figure 6-13 illustrates normal and abnormal valve wear
patterns. Valve A has run almost 1000 hours in a Kohler test engine
and, despite the heavy accumulation of combustion products on heat
and upper stem, can probably be reconditioned. Valve B suffers
from severe stem corrosion, caused by moisture in fuel or from

198
condensation. The latter condition occurs when the engine is
improperly preserved during extended layup or when engine is
repeatedly stopped before normal operating temperatures develop.
The valve should be replaced.
Valve C is badly worn. It is the victim of too many hours be-
tween overhauls. Margin has become knife-edged and the head is
hopelessly warped. Valve D s hows evidence of chronic leakdown.
Because the face is gas cut, the valve cannot be reconditioned and
must be replaced. Valve E shows coking, or carbon buildup, that
is a normal and relatively benign condition for intake valves. Clean
and regrind. Gum deposits , valve F , usually result from stale
gasoline and are often seen when fuel is left in the tank during
engine storage. Generally, the valve and guide can be cleaned and
reused but in severe cases the valve must be replaced.
An overheated exhaust valve, G, is frequently encountered.
Note the dark discoloration of the upper stem and absence of
combustion deposits. The valve should be renewed and cause of
the problem should be corrected. Look for maladjusted ignition
timing, overly lean carburetor adjustment, blocked cooling fins , a
weak valve spring or worn valve guides. Carbon cut valve, H, has
been destroyed by carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. This
condition can been avoided with proper maintenance. Carbon
accumulates rapidly in engines that run at part throttle under light
load.

HEAD MAR GI N

,
SEAT
/~
Fig. 6-12. Basic valve nomenclature.
(Courtesy Clinton.)

...--vTEM

199
 •

Fig. 6-13. Valve inspection: (A) normal wear and deposit accumulation on valve
that ran almost 1000 hours under laboratory conditions; (B) severe stem cor-
rosion from water in fuel or condensation (replace valve because stem pits
act as stress risers); (C) extreme wear, characterized by thin margin and warped
head mean that valve should be replaced .

Worn valve faces and seats should be turned over to a dealer

or competent automotive machinist for servicing. The cost of the
tools makes this work prohibitive for the casual mechanic. See Fig.
6-14.
200
 0

Fig. 6-13. Valve inspection: (D) gas channeling at valve face, probably caused
by an improper valve grind; (E) heavy carbon buildup on intake valve, normal
flow slow-turning engines, (valve usually can be reused after cleaning); (F) gum
deposits from stale gasoline, one of the major causes of valve sticking (ream
guides and clean valves).

Figure 6-15 shows a commercial valve grinder in use. While

most small engine valves are cut at 45 °, Onan likes 44 °. Some
Briggs & Stratton models have 30 ° intake valves and 45 ° exhausts.
The moral of all this is that valve work requires factory documen-
201
Fig. 6-13. (G) overhead exhaust valve with dark discoloration above guide. (Prob-
lem may be caused by worn guides or age-weakened springs. Also check
ignition timing, carburetor adjustment, and cooling system. Valve should be
replaced) ; (H) carbon-cut valve destroyed by carbon deposits in head cavity.
(Courtesy Kohler.)

tation for the particular make and model. At any rate, the valve
face is cut at a single angle and s hould leave a margin (see Fig.
6-12) of about 1/64 of an inch. Less than this will cause the valve
to overheat and might send the engine into detonation.
The shop should also be able to handle seat refinishing (al-
though automotive machinists do not always have the appropriate
pilot). Normally , a high-speed grinder is used, but cast-iron, or

202
Fig. 6-14. A valve lathe is used to reface valves. Grinder may also be used
to widen margin at some cost in valve diameter. (Courtesy Clinton.)

,, ..
/

Fig. 6-15. Seats can be refurbished by hand or with a portable grinder and
suitable " rocks." Seat width, angle and entry angle are crucial.

203
integral, seats can be refurbished with a relatively inexpensive
reamer of the type shown in Fig. 6-16. Valve seat angle and seat
width are matters of specification, but the angle is always 1/2 to
1 ° larger or smaller than the valve face angle in order to provide
an interference fit. Seat width is controlled by entry and exit angles
(as illustrated in Fig. 6-16). An overly narrow seat soon hammers
out under valve impact and a seat that is too wide makes a poor seal.
While there is always some loss of control when work is farmed
out, you can expect the machinist to accurately reproduce original
valve dimensions, unless some metal gets lost in the grinding.
Provide the specifications, if he does not have them, and ask that
grinding be kept to a minimum. "Buried" valves have poor flow
characteristics and reduce available spring tension. Springs, how-
ever, can be shimmed at their stationary ends with hardened
washers available from bearing supply houses.
Most manufacturers suggest that valves should be lightly
lapped after machine refinishing. Few professional mechanics take
the time to do this , but lapping does ensure a perfect seal.
Obtain a suction cup tool , sized for small engine work such as
K-D T ools' catalog No. 501, and tin of Clover Leaf oil-based, valve-
grinding compound. Dab a small amount of compound on the valve
face, insert the valve and mount the suction cup tool as shown in
Fig. 6-17. The cup might not find purchase on highly polished valve
heads and some form of adhesive can be used. Rotate the tool be-
tween your palms, stopping when the compound degrades and no
longer makes the characteristic hiss as the valve is worked. Raise
the valve from its seat, spot a little more compound around the face,
rotate the valve a quarter-tum, and repeat the operation. Stop when
the valve face and seat take on a uniform met finish. Wipe all traces
of compound from the valve, seat the valve chamber, and flush with
solvent. Compound that remains in the engine will continue its work
on valve stems and guides.
At the risk of repetition, it should be pointed out that valve
lapping is a touch-up operation that should not require more than
30 seconds per valve. Excessive lapping will groove the valves and
produce the condition shown in Fig. 6-18. When the engine is cold,
the groove and seat match perfectly. Once the engine attains
operating temperature, the valve expands away from the seat and
leaks.
Valve Guides. Integrity of the valve seat depends, in large
n1easure, upon the condition of the valve guide that centers the
valve (and reconditioning tool) on the seat. It is a waste of time

204
 Valve Seat Details ~ 5a° , Over
30°~ / .,.. Cut 1/

I
/]i;:~ J
'/ , ~ ~ _j
Under
Cut
Valve Seat Insert

/
\, /{'-'·.-r-
7
04_5--,.-..,...-.----,
J J
4-
/ ~ /
, 1...-

" -- /' ?'

'\

1.125" - KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19

1.390" - KT19 Series II, KT21

Valve Guide
Depth

Guide

I\)
0
Fig. 6-16. Some idea of the crucial nature of valve geometry can be had from this Kohler-supplied illustration . Note the three-angle valve
{J1 seat for improved flow characteristics. (Courtesy of Kohler.)
to grind a valve that rides in a sloppy guide.
Guide-to-valve-stem clearance is measured at the top (valve
head end) of the guide, and any figure of 0.0045 inch or more is
excessive. Minimum clearance is quite small (on the order of 0.0015
inch). Briggs & Stratton supplies their dealers with plug gauge sets
to make these determinations. Experienced mechanics check valve
guide wear as a function of how much the valve wobbles when full
open.
Most engines have some form of replaceable guide that is
pressed into place. A few of the least expensive models run the
intake and sometimes the exhaust valve directly against block
metal, but there is always provision to retrofit guides. Many Briggs
& Stratton guides are repaired by partial reaming and installation
of a bushing in the upper guide area. And most manufacturers
supply valves with oversized stems that can be installed after the
original guides are reamed to fit.
If you establish that guides are worn, the first step is to obtain
the necessary replacement parts and reamer. The later can be
purchased from a good tool supply house and the new guides, guide

Fig. 6-17. Lapping assures a positive seal after valves and seat have been
reworked .

206
 ~h LAPPING
,i,;, COMPOUND
·•·.

.,; ... .j
. COLD ENGINE
0 :Y.':?: ••••-...•,.. ,.

~- ,;:·"
;;::
;,
.. ·rr~,,~--i:.,,,,,.,,;,. ,-~,,;,::,-.. .::., .,~iL,?~\,..,, ..
; .

.; LAPPING
'
, ,.· COMPOUND

;.··:;·

Fig. 6-18. Lapping is no panecea and will not substitute for machining opera-
tions. When an engine is cold, a lapped seat will work. As the engine reaches
running temperature, the valve expands away from lapped surface and leaks.

bushings, or oversized valves should be obtainable fro m a dealer

(together with detailed installation instructions).
Replaceable guides are knocked out from the valve head end
after measuring the distance between the top of the guide and the
valve seat insert. Side valve guides sometimes have to be broken
207
before extraction from the valve chamber. Others can be withdrawn
in one piece. Clean parts in solvent and-working from the valve
head end-drive replacement guides home to the depth of the
originals. Valve guide drivers that center on the guide ID can be
purchased from specialty tool houses. Use of the appropriate driver
may eliminate the need to finish ream the guide to 0.0015-0.002
inch larger than the valve stem. Othe rwise, the guide must be
reamed.
Figure 6-19 shows how Briggs & Stratton valve guide bushings
are superimposed upon the original guides. This job requires special

P'\.UO
OAUGf

MAAK
'1LOT IUIHING
(11111 )

•M~~\--::;;;.;
"l~LACIMINT~=';/,
IUIHING 5

'1LOT o,
COUNTl"IO"f
AIAMI"
(1toM)

Ill. 1 Ill. 2 Ill. 3

IUIHING ""''H I k=::===

"IAMI"
(1IOM)
D"IV("
(1IOM)

"IAMI"

Fig. 6-19. Installation of valve guide bushings in Briggs & Stratton engines is
a job best left to a dealer.

208
 HEAT UNTIL OIL BEGINS TO SMOKE.

Fig. 6-20. Aluminum ohv heads do not take kindly to brute-force methods of
valve guide extraction and installation. The head should be heated and replace-
ment guides chilled .

tools a nd should be farmed out to a dealer. Figures 6-20 and 6-21

depict another approach to guide service. In this example, guides
are mounted in an aluminum head. The head is immersed in oil
and heated to 375-400 ° F- a process that should be done

1/2" RAT
. - - - - DRIFT PUNCH

CENTER DRIFT PUNCH ON VALVE GUIDE

Fig . 6-21 . If the temperature differential between guide and head is great
enough, guide would drop into place . As a practical matter, an arbor press
is needed .

209
outdoors-and the old guides are pressed out. Then, the head is
brought back up to temperature and new guides, which have been
chilled, are pressed in. Because installation depends upon thermal
expansion and contraction, little violence is done to the guides.
Finish reaming s hould not be necessary.
Note : Valves and valve seats must be ground and lapped after
guide installation.
Valve Seats . . Most engines feature replaceable valve seats
that must be renewed in event of looseness, cracking, or deep pitting
(a seat insert is shown back in Fig. 6-16). Briggs & Stratton cast
iron block models employ a replaceable exhaust valve seat, but the
intake valve runs directly on the block. Briggs is nothing if not thor-
ough, however, and intake valve seat inserts can be installed with
proper tools as described as follows.
Valve seat replacement is a relatively unusual service operation
and parts should be obtained before embarking upon such work.
Remove the old seat with a long punch (Fig. 6-22) or, if that is not
possible, with a purchased or homemade removal tool (Fig. 6-23).
Most replacement valve seats-particularly those intended for
installation in cast-iron blocks-have the same OD as the original
seat. T his eliminates the need for a special reamer, but limits the

Fig. 6-22. Sometimes it is possible to drive out valve seats from below, as in
this Clinton block.

210
 1/ 32"
(0.1 mm )~·ff='!~/;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;:\~·

(r

EXHAUST
VALVE
IHSEIT

Fig. 6-23. When ports are restrictive, a hammer impact bushing puller (available
from auto parts houses) or Briggs & Stratton's part No. 19138 can be used.

repairability of the block when the seat has loosened and wallowed
its recess. The wear limit for Briggs & Stratton engines is 0.005
of an inch clearance between the seat OD and block ID (Fig. 6-24).
The alternative approach is typlified by Clinton in their GEM se-
ries engines. Replacement seats are 0.040-inch oversized and a
reamer, piloted on the valved guide, must be used to enlarge the
recess.
As mentioned earlier, intake valve seats on Briggs & Stratton
cast iron engines must be reamed to accept an insert. The factory
provides its dealers with a well-engineered tool for this purpose
(Fig. 6-25).

LOOSE VAL VE SEAT

CAN 9E TURNED OR
MOVED UI" OR
Fig. 6-24. Loose valve seats are not DOWN. CHEC K
WITH fEELE R
unknown in aluminum block en- GAUGE HERE
gines. If a seat with an oversized OD
is not available, the problem can
usually be corrected by staking the
seat.

211
 CUTTER SHANK

Fig . 6-25. A scrap valve can substitute for the factory valve seat driver shown.

Replacement seat and recess must be dry and spotlessly clean.

Chill the seat and , working qujckJy, press it into place. A factory
driver, such as the one shown in Fig. 6-26, should be used when
available. Otherwise use a scrap valve. It is good practice, especially
on aluminum block engines, to stake the newly installed seat. Begin

Fig. 6-26. Valve seat reamer in use. Note that this tool pilots on the valve guide
and will not cut true if the guide is worn .

212
at three points 120 ° apart and complete the job at close intervals
around the seat circumference.
The associated valve should be replaced or, if still serviceable,
reground and lap"ped to the seat.
Valve Lash Adjustment. Metal lost through grinding and
lapping operations and metal gained through seat or valve
replacement must be compensated for by valve lash adjustment.
See Fig. 6-27. Side valve engines generally are fitted with fixed
tappets and valve lash increases are made by grinding the valve
stems. Install the valve without spring, turn the cranks haft until
the tappet fully retracts and measure the clearance between the
tappet and valve stem with a feeler gauge (Fig. 6-28). Grind the
valve stem as necessary to establish factory-specified clearance (on
the order of 0.008 inch intake and 0.010 inch exhaust). Work slowly,

USE CE NTER PUN C H TO

TIGHTEN INSERT AT THREE
POINTS EQUALLY SPACED

Fig. 6-27. Staking the valve is a good PEEN OVER EDGE AROUND
and perhaps necessary practice ENTIRE INSERT
when replaci ng seats in aluminum .
First nail the seat down with three
stakes about 120° apart (A). Secure
with stakes around its whole perim-
eter (B).

METAL
SQU EEZED
AGAINST
INSERT

213
 VALVE - TAPPET
CLEARANC E

Fig. 6-28. Valve lash measured between stem end and tappet with tappet on
heel of cam. Kohler engine shown closely resembles other side valve types.

frequently rechecking the lash, and exercising care that the stem
remains dead flat. If too much metal is lost, the lash will be
excessive and valve timing will retard for some loss of power.
Correct by regrinding and lapping the valve face.
Some of the better side-valve engines and all overhead valve
types have adjustable tappets. Valve lash for ohv engines is defined
as clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem (Fig. 6-29).
Turn the crankshaft until the associated tappet is on the heel of
its cam lobe, loosen the lock nut, and tum the adjustment nut to
achieve specified clearance. T ighten the lock nut and recheck.
Valve Gear Modification. It is sometimes possible to
upgrade standard-duty engines to heavy-duty status by parts
substitution. Table 6-1 gives the interchange parts numbers for
Briggs & Stratton engines.

214
 TURN ACUJSTING SCREW: CLOCKWISE TO OEC~E WH,
COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO INC~E ~H.

AO.AJSTING
ROCKER ARMS
SCREWS

FEE R
GAUGE
VALVE STEM

INTAKE .oo5
EXHAUST .010

Fig . 6-29. OHV lash is measured between stem end and rocker arm, and is
adjusted via threated push rod pivots.

Breather. Four-cycle engines incorporate some form of

breather assembly (Fig. 6-32). The breather consists of a check
valve, bleed port and oil trap. The check valve opens on the piston
downstroke-when crankcase pressures are highest-to allow air
to be expelled from the crankcase. It remains closed for the rest
of the stroke, sealing the crankcase and keeping its pressure at son1e
value below atmospheric.
Partial vacuum tends to reduce oil seepage at gaskets and
crankshaft seals. However, the breather bleed port remains open
during the whole cycle. Consequently, some air enters the crankcase
to be circulated and expelled, together with combustion gases, on
the next downstroke. The oil trap prevents escape of lube oil out
of the breather tube. Exhaust may be vented to the atmosphere
or to the carburetor intake.
Some two-cycle engines use a functionally similar device for
an entirely different purpose. The Reed assembly (Fig. 6-31) acts
as a check valve to contain the air-fuel mixture in the crankcase.

PISTONS AND RINGS

Engine configuration determines piston access. Single-cylinder
utility and industrial plants typically employ unitized have cylin-

215
f\)
~
Table 6-1 . Briggs & Stratton Stallite Valve and Torocap Conversion .
0)

Rotocap only conversion

Stellite
valve Spring Rotocap Retainer Pin

Aluminum

60000, 80000, 82000, 92000, 94000 260443 26826 292259 230127 230126

100000, 130000 260860 26826 292259 230127 230126

140000, 170000, 190000, 200000, 250000 390420 26828 292260 93630

Cast Iron

14, 19 , 190000, 200000 26735 26828 292260 68283

23, 230000 261207 26828 292260 68283

240000, 300000, 320000 261207 26828 292260 68283 (Stellite Std .)

 "'-'

~ l
I
I

J I'

~ '\
\
\
,\
~ \
\
'
\l
''

Fig. 6-30. Conical crankcase breatherb with filter and check valve used in some
Clinton engines . Other types are integral with valve chamber cover or may
be remotely mounted and connected to crankcase by a hose.

Fig. 6-31 . Two reed valve assem-

blies, flat (upper) and dished (lower)
for increased flow. Dished unit
employs stop plate to limit reed
deflection.

217
der barrels that are cast in one piece with the block. The head is
de tachable and the connecting rod is s plit at the crankpin. One side
of the crankcase is closed with a cover, whose arrangement depends
upon the lay of the crankshaft:

Horizon tal Cranks haft- cover on power takeoff side of

block, top-side main bearing or cover, which serves as oil pain, on
bottom of block.
Vertical Cranks haft-cover (known as flange) on bottom
of block, supports lower main bearing and engine mounting bolts.

Figure 6-32 shows a Kohler horizontal-shaft block being lifted

off its combination crankcase cover-oil pan. No problems here. All
you have to remember is to renew the gasket upon assembly. Flange
or side-cover engines are a little more complicated (Fig. 6-33). Polish
all traces of rust or paint from the crankshaft extension. Use strip
emory cloth and remove burrs and break sharp edges on keyways
with a fine file. Take your time with this operation, dressing out
all imperfections on the crankshaft that would bind the main bearing
or cut the lower oil seal. Mount the engine upright, lubricate the
crankshaft , remove the flange hold-down bolts and, using a soft
mallet, gently tap the flange away from the block. Carefully

,--,
r I
., I

@)
j

'·'

Fig. 6-32. Crankcase cover-oil pan offer easiest rod access because main bear-
ings are not disturbed .

218
 I
..
.... -
I
I

FLANGE

OIL SEAL I

Fig. 6-33. Flange on vertical crank engines locates crank and camshafts .
Remove with extreme care, cleaning shaft extensions and making the initial
parts separation with a rubber hammer. Do not use a screwdriver to jimmy
the flange free of the block.

withdraw the flange. The camshaft should remain in mesh with the
crankshaft.
The connecting rod is secured with two bolts or studs that can
be proofed against vibration loosening by lockwashers or tab locks.
To avoid assembly errors, reference both rod cap and rod lay as
detailed in the " Connecting Rod" section of this chapter.
Once the rod nuts are removed, turn the cranks haft a few
degrees to disengage the cap and shank. Using a wooden dowel,
drive the piston assembly out the top of the barrel (Fig. 6-34). In
event of extreme wear, it might be necessary to ream the cylinder
ridge. T his operation is described in the fo llowing section.
Engines with demountable cylinder barrels trade off easy pis-
ton access for difficult connector rod access (Fig. 6-35). With the
barrel still assembled, scrap the carbon from the piston top. Bring
the piston down to bdc, remove barrel hold-downs, and lift the barrel
off the crankcase. A few raps with a rubber mallet might be required

2 19
 @

Fig . 6-34 . Once the rod cap is detached, tap the piston out of the bore with
a wooden dowel placed against the underside of the piston crown . Do not ap-
ply force to the upper rod bearing half.

to break the barrel-to-block gasket seal. Raise the piston and stuff
the area between the block and rod with clean rags to keep carbon
fragn1ents out of the crankcase.

Inspection
Bright rings, unifo rmly polished and with no vestige remaining

--

/l }(
,·
~-
..,... ....
. ... ."··)
(

.,· .
...
.,,\.'.

Fig. 6-35. Demountable barrels are lifted off their pistons. They should be sup-
ported by a rod or holding fixture.

220
 of tool marks, are s imply worn out. Stuck rings, frozen into their
grooves, indicate poor maintenance, extreme service, excessive
combustion temperature, or consequent loss of ring spring tension.
Broken rings have several causes that include inept installation,
detonation impact, and worn grooves that allow the rings to twist
during stroke reversals.
Chronic detonation can also affect the piston, nibbling at the
crown as if mice were at work. The damage usually starts at one
edge of the crown-adjacent to the area in the chamber where the
fuel charge is slowest to ignite-and progresses toward the cen-
ter. Check for poor fuel antiknock quality, lean carburetion ,
excessive ignition advance, and any other condition that wouJd lead
to elevated combustion temperature. Excessive load brought on too
early in the rpm curve can be a factor because large throttle
openings at low speed reduce turbulence and slow flame
propagation.
Pre-ignition is rare but obvious when seen from the vantage
point of the piston. The center of the crown overheats and can dent
or bum through from the combination of high temperatures and
premature gas expansion. Check the combustion chamber for any
abnormality-such as a hang-nail spark plug thread, a piece of
partially detached carbon or a knife-edged exhaust valve that could
produce a constant source of ignition. Grinding two-cycle ports
oversized for better flow and increased power sometimes has the
same results because the bridge between exhaust ports is narrowed
and can become incandescent.
Examine the piston skirt for wear. T ypically, rubbing contact
occurs at two points at right angles to the wrist pin centerline and
gradually expands to the whole length of the s kirt. Figure 6-36
illustrates abnormal wear patterns produced by bent and twisted
connecting rods. Forces that rocked the piston to make these
patterns can also drive the wrist pin past its locks and into contact
with the cylinder wall.
Deep scratches can mean cylinder bore problems and might
smear into the ring grooves, freezing the rings. Light abrasions,
giving the piston a matt finish, point to air filter problems. Once
sand has been ingested, all bearings become contaminated and the
engine should either be scrapped or rebuilt.
Utility and industrial engines are set up fairly tight with piston-
to-bore clearances between 0.0015 and 0.002 inches. How much
wear is tolerable is, in part, a subjective judgment involving tradeoff
between immediate cost and anticipated life to the next overhaul.

221
 e

Fig . 6-36 . Abnormal thrust face wear, a bent rod tilts the piston in the bore-
concentrating wear at the piston ends (A). A twisted rod oscillates the piston
producing a wavelike signature (8) .

222
Most factories put the wear !unit at 0.005 or 0.006 inches, but small-
bore, high-rpm engines are happier if piston clearance does not
exceed 0.004 inch.
Pistons usually taper toward their crowns at a rate of about
0.00125 of an inch per inch of height. This allows the hottest part
of the piston room to expand . In addition, four-cycle pistons are
cam ground so that thrust faces are on the long axis. The piston
remains centered on the bore when cold and gradually expands to
a full circle as the engine warms to operating temperature. Two-
cycle pistons are sometimes round, rather than oval, to control
crankcase leakage during startup.
All measurements are made, across the thrust faces, at right
angles to the wrist pin. Manufacturers specify a distance above the
base of the skirt and just under the wrist pin. Clinton backstops
s kirt diameter with a measurement across the second ring land (Fig.
6-37).
The final piston check is to determine ring groove width.
Remove the rings and scrap all traces of carbon from the grooves,
opening oil drain holes in the lowest groove. You might want to
use a special groove cleaning tool, available at auto parts stores,
or a broken piston ring mounted in a file handle.

Fig. 6-37. Primary piston measurement is between thrust faces at some

specified distance below the wrist pin. Clinton two-cycle straight-cut pistons
can also be checked at top ring land.

223
 )
I

,81,2

Fig. 6-38. Determine ring side clearance with a new ring as reference . Wear
tends to concentrate on the upper side of No. 1 groove. (Courtesy Onan .)

Warning: Piston rings-especially used rings- are razor

sharp.
Using a new ring, measure side clearance on both compression
ring grooves (Fig. 6-38). Excessive side clearance, as defined by
the manufacturer, allows the ring to twist during stroke reversals
(Fig. 6-39). This condition defects ring sealing geometry and

CYLINDER
WALL

PISTON
RING

Fig . 6-39. Excessive groove width rounds the leading edge of the ring and can
contribute to ring breakage . (Courtesy Onan .)

224
eventually causes breakage. While it is theoretically possible to
recut the grooves overly wide and restore clearance with s pacers,
the best option is to replace the piston.

Piston Pin
Four-cycle wrist pin bearing wear is almost unheard of because
thrust reverses every second revolution. In contrast, two cycle pins
are subject to an almost constant downward force that tends to
squeeze out what lubrication is present. In either case, the small
engine bearing is considered acceptable if it has no perceptible hand-
up-and-down plan and if the piston pivots of its own weight.
Pistons incorporate a small offset relative to their pins and some
two-cycle piston crowns are shaped to deflect the incoming fuel
charge away from the exhaust ports. Consequently, you must install
the piston exactly as found. Some are stamped with an arrow or
with the letter F (signifying the front of the engine). Others can
be oriented by the manufacturer's logo.
Remove and discard the circlips. New circlips are inexpensive
insurance against the pin moving into contact with the cylinder bore.
If the piston is out of the engine , support it on a wood V-block and
drive or press the pin clear of the rod. Do not gouge the pin bore
during this process. When the connecting rod remains attached to
the crankshaft, it will be necessary to extract the pin with the tool
(Fig. 6-40) or by carefully heating the piston. Do not heat with an
open flame. Besides inviting a crankcase explosion, this approach
is almost guaranteed to distort the piston. Instead, wrap the pis-
ton with a rag soaked in hot oil or, less messily, heat the crown
with an electric hot plate.

Fig. 6-40. A piston pin extractor is a useful tool that can be purchased through
motorcycle or snowmobile dealers. Kohler type is shown .

225
 RING
CENTIRED
IN RING
TRAVEL AREA

INVERTED PISTON CHECK RING

TO POSmON RING ENO GAP
SQUARELY IN
CYLINDER

Fig 6-41 . Using the piston as a guide, insert each new ring about halfway into
the cylinder bore and measure end clearance.

Installation is essentially the reverse process, except that pis-

ton pin and pin bores must be well lubricated. Make certain that
new circlips seat in their grooves.

Piston Rings
Four-cycle pistons employ three distinct rings. Counting from
the bottom, there is the oil control ring (cast in one piece or made
up of several steel segments), the scraper, and the top compression
ring. Four-ring pistons employ a second, backup compression ring.
Replacement ring sets may differ from production sets and, when
identical, some manufacturers offer the option of engineered
replacements. These sets include expanders behind the com-
pression, the scraper, and sometimes the oil control ring to increase
ring tension. This expedient permits better conformity with worn
bores, but costs something on the order of 2 percent in loss of power
and additional fuel consumption.
Two-cycle engines are fitted with two identical compression
rings that do, however, have definite upper and lower sides.
Installing the rings upside down will cost compression and power.
Pegs can be used to secure ring ends to prevent rotation and
possible handup in cylinder ports.
Determine the end gap of each ring as verification that the

226
 Install Bottom I Prod. (Single) I Prod. (3 Piece) I Service (4 Piece)
I I
Ring First I I
I
I .--' I
BOTTOM I

(t° ~
I I I
GROOVE I

©
I
I
I
I
I
I
@
Prod. Type Prod. Type Prod. Type Service (3 Piece)

MIDDLE
GROOVE
fJ? ~
Install Top
Ring Last
Inside
Bevel - -
TOP Marking
on Ring
GROOVE
0 Ring With Inside With " Top"
I\)
Bevel Up, or Marki ng Up
I\)
'.J Fig. 6-42. Kohler ring sequence and orientation is typical of four-cycle engines.
correct diameter rings are installed and as a final check on cylinder-
bore dimensions. Using the piston crown as a pilot to hold the ring
square, insert the ring about midway into the cylinde r (F ig. 6-41).
Measure end gap with a feeler gauge. Specification varies, but most
manufacturers call for about 0.0015 of an inch of ring gap per inch
of cylinde r diameter. T oo large a gap wastes compression and will
indicate an undersized ring or oversized cylinder. Too narrow a gap
may allow ring ends to abut under thermal expansion, resulting in
rapid cylinder wear and premature ring failure. Correct by filing
the ends; keep them flat a nd square.
Lay out rings in the orde r of installation. Make certain that you
have identified each ring and each ring's upper side, which can be
marked as such (Fig . 6-42). Using the prope r tool, install the oil
ring from the top of the piston, spreading the ring only wide enough
to clear piston diamete r. Re peat this operation for the re maining
rings (Fig. 6-43). Verify that rings ride in their grooves and, where
applicable, that ring e nds straddle locating pegs.
Rotate floating rings to stagge r ring gaps some 120 ° apart so
that there will be no clear channel for compression leakage. On
T ecumseh engines with relieved valves (shades of Ford hot rod

Fig . 6-43. Installing a compression ring on an Onan piston with aid of ring ex-
pander.

228
 TREM:HING
GAPS

GAPS
STAGGER RING END GAPS AWAY FROM TIIEM:HING

Fig. 6-44. Rings for Tecumseh engines with relieved, or trenched , valves must
be installed with their ends away from the bore undercut.

days), it is important to position ring ends away from the bore

undercut (Fig. 6-44).

Installation
Integral Barrel. Tum the crankshaft to the bottom dead cen-
ter position and press short pieces of fuel hose over rod studs.
Lubricate cylinder bore, crankpin, rod bearing, pin and piston
(flooding the rings with motor oil). Without upsetting ring gap
stagger, install a compressor tool, of the type shown in Fig. 6-45,
over the piston. Tighten the band only enough to squeeze rings flush
with piston diameter.
Position the piston, attached upper rod as originally found in
the engine, and carefully tap the piston out of the compressor. Do
not fo rce the issue. If the piston binds, a ring has escaped the tool
or there is interference between the rod shank and the crankshaft.
Read "Connecting Rod" section that follows before installing the
rod cap.
Detachable Barrel. Lubricate cylinder bore, piston pin, and
ring areas. Support the piston on the crankcase flange with a rod
(as shown back in Fig. 6-35), or with a wooden fo rk (Fig. 6-46).
Some barrels are beveled and can be slipped over the rings with-
out much difficulty. Others are straight cut, and require use of a
clamp-type tool shown in Fig. 6-46.

229
 Fig . 6-45 . A ring com-
pressor sized for small en-
gines is used when the
piston is installed from the
top of the bore.

CYLINDER BORES
Pistons for cast-iron engines run directly on block metal with-
out the intermed iary of a cylinder liner. Iron provides a fairly
durable wearing surface and flows readily enough to mend small
scratches. Aluminum-block engines are protected from ring scuff
with a layer of chrome applied to the base metal or, as is more of-
ten the case, with an iron liner. A few linered bores are chromed
for extreme wear and corrosion resistance.

Fig. 6-46. A homemade clamp is

easily removed after the barrel is in-
stalled over the piston . Inset shows
how rings are pegged on some two-
cycle engines.

230
 Inspect for deep scratches, aluminum splatter from piston melt,
and fo r chrome separation. The plating is most vulnerable at the
top of the bore and around the exhaust ports on two-cycle engi nes
where thermal expansion is greatest. Rechroming the bore is
impractical and any evidence of peel means that the block s hould
be scrapped.
Maximum wear occurs near the upper limit of ring travel where
heat is greatest, lubrication is minimal, and corrosives are most
concentrated. On unchromed bores, wea r results in a ridge at the
upper limit of ring travel. The amount of ridge is a rough guide
to bore wear and can be significant enough to hinder piston
extraction. In any event, the ridge must be removed before new
rings are installed.
Figure 6-4 7 illustrates a ridge rean1er in use. Adjust cutter
tension with the upper nut and rotate the tool clockwise. Insufficient
tension dulls the cutter, while too much tension produces chatter
and may fracture the carbide cutting edge. Lubricate the tool
frequently and stop when the ridge is partly obliterated. No used
cylinder is a perfect circle and some evidence of ridge will remain
at the long axis.
Cast-iron bores develop a polished glaze that must be removed
for new rings to seat (Fig. 6-48). A spring-loaded home that

C: s S- '.:>
C s S- :>
C > s ::>
C

MEASURE AT
SIX POIHTS

CEHTER OF
PISTOH RIHG TRAVEL

Fig. 6-47. Measure the bore at six points to determine oversize, out of round
and taper.

23 1
 ..,..
.. - ---

()

()

Fig. 6-48. Iron bores develop a ridge at the upper limit of ring travel that must
be removed whenever new rings are fitted. (Courtesy Onan.)

automatically conforms to cylinder diameter is preferred for "glaze

busting," although patience and sandpaper will do much.

1. Chuck up the hone in a drill press or a 1/2-inch portable

drill motor. A smaller drill will provide sufficient power, but most
turn at excessively high speeds. Anything more than 400 rpm will
produce the "threaded" surface (Fig. 6-49) and defeat the whole
operation.

PROD UCE C ROSS HATCH SCRATCHES A V OID THIS F I N ISH

FOR FAST R I NG SEA T I NG

Fig. ~9. Honed cylinder should consist of thousands of diamond-shaped points

that retain oil and wear-in quickly. (Courtesy Onan .)

232
 2. Fit the tool with a 280-grit stone and lubricate as the
manufacturer suggests.
3. Cycle the hone about 70 times a minute with 3/4 inch or
so of stone protruding from each end of the cylinder at extremes
of travel (Fig. 6-50).
4. Stop when the cylinder bore is uniformly scored.
5. Scrub bore with brush and detergent to remove every trace
of abrasive. Cleanup cannot be accomplished with solvent.

Cylinder oversizing is a more serious matter and requires a

precision hone. If a lathe is used, the last few thousandths of the
cut must be honed to remove tool marks. Most mechanics find it
easier to use a hone for the whole operation:

1. Adjust drill press for 300 to 400 rpm spindle speed.

2. Select a coarse (80-grip) stone for ignition cuts.
3. Position the work piece on the tool table (Fig. 6-51). The
bore must be vertical and, at the same time, free to move laterally.
Figure 6-51 shows an arrangement using shims for vertical
alignment. The table can be oiled to further aid centering.
4. Set press stops to extend stones 3/4 of an inch beyond both
ends of the bore.

Fig. 6--50. Cutaway view of Clinton block illustrates the cylinder hone at lower
travel limit. Note the stone extension beyond the bore.

233
 0
101' TO If l(Vfl

W( AA

C.UIOf
SPAC E I OU

3/ 4"
(20 .0 mm)
0

314··
·(20.0 mm)

Fig. 6-51. Mount the block or barrel loosely on the drill press table to aid align-
ment. Vertical-shaft blocks must also be shimmed to bring fire deck level with
table (A). When resizing, begin at the lower and least worn portion of the bore
(B).

5. Adjust the hone to conform with the lower bore diameter

(which will be smaller than upper bore). Contact s hould be positive,
but not so firm as to prevent turning the tool by hand.
6. Lubricate stones as the manufacturer suggests. Petroleum
solvents can dissolve the binder and this causes rapid s tone wear.
7. Star press and keep hone moving about 70 strokes a min-
ute. As lower cylinder enlarges, adjust hone for greater reach.
E ventually the whole length of the cylinder will be traversed on
each stroke.
8. Keep a close eye on how much metal is ren1oved. The bore
might tend to bell mouth at the ends.
9. Clean felts and replenish lubricant at frequent intervals.
10. When the bore is straight and within 0.002 inch of final
size, s top and change to a 280 finishing stone.
11 . M ake the final cut; stop frequently for a dimension check.
Verify running clearance against replacement piston. The actual
diameter may vary 0.0005 inch fo r nominal diameter.
12. Scrub the bore with a brush, hot water , and detergent.
Wipe dry with paper shop towels. Scrub until the towels are no
longer stained with abrasive. Oil imn1ediately.

CONNECTING RODS
Aluminum is the material of choice for four-cycle connecting

234
rods that , almost always, are s plit at the big end. Utility and light
industrial do not have replaceable bearings; crank a nd piston pins
run against the rod itself. Figure 6-52 illustrates the standard pattern
that, in this case, incorporates an oil slinger below the cap for splash
lubrication.
Better-quality engines might use precision bearing inserts at
the big e nd in conjunction with a bushing at the small end (Fig.
6-53). Undersized inserts (0.010 and 0.020 inch for American-made
engines) allow the crank to be reground .
Traditionally, two-cycle connector rods were steel forgings with
needle bearings at both ends. However, light and moderate-output
plants, including some outboard motors, currently use alun1inum,
(which can be fitted with races for needle bearings or which can

WRIST PIN

- -- ··-- 1+1-t-- BEARING

SUP AT

OIL
PASSAGE THROUGH
BOLT

INSTAU WrTH MATCH

......._ MARK FACING OUT
AND OIL DIPPER AS
SEE SPECIACATION SHOWN
SECTION FOR BEARING
SIZE ANO NUT TOfllUE

Fig. 6-52 . Typical four-cycle connecting rod has integral bearings.

235
 ,.

'

Fig . 6-53. Onan conn rod features a bushed small end and precision inserts
at the big end .

itself act as the bearing). Plain bearing engines are adequate for
light duty in applications where exhaust smoke is of little
consequence. These engines require as much as 1 part of oil to 24
parts of fuel. As a point of comparison, an automobile engine is
considered worn out of oil consumption is 1 to 400.
Figure 6-54 illustrates a connector rod for a two-cycle industrial
power plant. The aluminum rod rides on a bushing at its upper end
and on single-row or double-row needles at the crank end. Note
the use of replaceable races.
Catastrophic rod failure almost always originates at the big end.
How this happens is, in part, a function of big end bearing type.
Plain bearings skate on a pressurized wedge of oil that appears soon
after startup . Once up to speed, the bearing should , in a sense, hy-
droplane and make no direct contact with its journal.
Insufficient clearance between the crankpin and bearing
prevents the oil wedge from forming; excessive clearance allows
the wedge to leak faster than it can be formed. In either case, the
236
result is metal-to-metal contact, fusion, and a broken connecting rod.
Needle bearings make rolling contact against their races with-
out the cushion of an oil wedge. Consequently, any imperfection-
fatigue flaking, rust pitting, "skid marks"-n1eans bearing seizure
and rod failure .
Split big ends occasionally crumple into bit-sized chunks as a
result of insufficient rod-bolt torque. Proper torque might not have
been applied during assembly or rod locks might have given way,
allowing the bolts to shake loose. This is why manufacturer's torque
specifications must be followed to the letter and why new lock
washers or locknuts must be installed whenever the rod is
disassembled. Bend-over tab locks usually carry a spare tab that
can be employed during the first overhaul. Once the tab is engaged ,
it cannot, in conscience, be straightened and reused .

Orientation
Correct orientation is vital and, counting the piston, has three
aspects:

• P iston to rod. The piston pin may be offset relative to the

bore and two-cycle pistons may be asymmetrical.
• Rod assembly to engine. Some connector rods are drilled
for oil and vapor transfer; others are configured so that reverse
installation locks the cranks haft.
• Cap to rod. In order to maintain the necessary precision,
most engine makers assemble the rod and cap and ream to size.

-=~~D
C....!_)
SINGLE NEEDLE

() ~ D
I SPLIT NEEDLE
TAPER

MATCH MARKS

0 0
Fig . 6-54. Two-cycle rod employs needle-bearing lower end tor durability. Note
that split needles assemble with squared ends together.

237
 CAM CE AR SIDE ~ CAM CEAR SIDE CAM CE AR SID E .,,

Cf==--:V
LOClt
l'LAtE

CAM GE AR SID E ~ C AM CE AR SID E

( 41tl . SIDE ~
fL AT
ASST .
:»--11"!"4-"... ll i

A SSY .
M,UU LOCll
0~ Pl AT[

Fig. 6-55. Briggs & Stratton rod-to-engine and cap-to-rod orientation . Another
example of embossed rod and cap index marks can be seen in A of Fig. 6-54.
McCulloch engines employ a steel rod that is fractured after machining; when
cap is installed correctly, the break becomes almost invisible.

Stamped or embossed marks identify cap orientation (F ig. 6-55).

Failure to assemble the cap correctly results in early and cata-
strophic failure.

Inspection
Modem pistons are ''free floating. '' T he piston assembly should
pivot on the rod at room temperature. Piston pin-to-rod clearance
should be in the neighborhood of 0.0002 of an inch with more than
0.0005 or 0.0006 as the wear limit on plain bearings. Needles can
tolerate a little more play. Because needle bearings are part of the
two-stroke repertoire, excessive clearance can mean trouble. Two-
cycle engines get very little lubrication in this area and , what
lubrication there is, is poorly distributed. These engines run under
more or less constant compression. This condition tends to starve
the lower part of the bearing. Note that small end needles will be
located by steel thrust washers.
The big end gets most attention. Inspect the bearing for blue
238
temper marks-always a sign of serious trouble- and for surface
flaws. Small scratches can be tolerable in a low-rpm, plain-bearing
application. Any imperfection- including tiny pits, rust or needle
imprints on antifriction crankpins, races or rollers- is grounds for
immediate rejection. Replace all needles as a set. A new needle
in an old set will ride higher than the others and take the full brunt
of the load.
Needle bearings are " measured" by assembling the rod dry
with match marks aligned and by determining play by feel , and
bearing condition by sound , or more exactly, absence of scrapes,
rattles and other sounds of protest. Plain bearings must be actually
measured to determine running clearance , out of round, and taper.
The traditional way of doing this is to measure the crankpin
diameter across bottom dead center and at 90 ° from bdc at each
end of the pin. This shows out of round because the pin might be
egg-shaped, and taper, since one end of the pin might have a larger
average diameter than the other. In general, 0.001 of an inch of
out of round and taper are about the maximum allowed. Some
mechanics are more concerned about taper than out of round. Once
the crankpin diameter is known, the rod is assembled, match
marks-as always-together, and its diameter is measured across
bdc and normal to it.
The difference between average crankpin and rod bearing
diameter equals running clearance, which is subject to specification,
but which should fall between 0.001 of an inch or a new and
somewhat tight assembly to, say, about 0.004 (which is pushing
things a bit). Do not attempt to restore bearing clearance by filing
the ends of the rod cap. The expedient does not work for very long.
Another way to establish bearing clearance and crankpin
asymmetry is to use plastic-gauge wire (available from auto parts
jobbers). The soft, plastic wire is precisely dimensioned and flattens
as the bearing cap is installed. Wire width converts to bearing
clearance via a scale on the package. Follow this procedure:

1. Turn the crankshaft and assembled rod to bottom dead

center.
2. Remove the rod cap.
3. Wipe off all oil on rod cap and exposed crankpin.
4. Tear off a piece of gauge wire and lay it along the full
length of the crankpin (A of Fig. 6-56).
5. Install the rod cap, oriented correctly, and puJled down
evenly to factory torque s pecifications.
239
 Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft during this procedure.

6. Remove the cap and measure the width of the gauge wire
against the scale printed on the envelope (B of Fig. 6-56). Average
width corresponds to bearing clearance; variations in width from
one end of the crankpin to the other show taper.
7. Repeat the process, using two pieces of gauge wire, as
shown in C of Fig. 6-56. This is a cross-check on taper and indicates
out of round.

Even if you prefer to make the initial determination with

precision gauges that seem to show taper and out of round more
positively than wire, the final check on the installed bearing
clearance should be made with plastic. This is a positive
measurement with very little room for errors of interpretation.

ASSEMBLY
Coat upper and lower bearing surfaces thoroughly and liberally
with clean motor oil. Failure to do this can ruin a bearing on initial
startup. The insert type of big-end bearings sometimes have an oil
hole that defines the upper e nd. Otherwise bearing inserts
interchange between rodcap and shank. Uncaged needle bearings
can be fixed around the periphery of the crankpin with grease or,
following the old practice, with beeswax. Protect the crankpin ,
during piston installation, with short lengths of fuel line over the
rod bolts.
Check the piston-to-block, piston-to-rod, and rod-cap orientation
one final time. Tum the crank down to bdc and, using your fingers,
guide the rod assembly home. Install the correctly orientated cap,
new rod locks, and run the bolts down to specified torque, keep
the cap square during the process.
Pull the engine over by hand for several revolutions to detect
possible binds. The rod should move easily from side to side along
the crankpin . Most manufacturers do not provide a side play
specification, but the rod is comfortable with several thousandths
of an inch of axial freedom.

CRANKSHAFTS
It is always good practice to align timing marks before four-
cycle engines are disassembled. Crankshaft and camshaft timing
marks index at top dead center on the compression stroke.
240
 0

,.
I
I

•
' ~
. l '-'
·,
•
I '\
I '
I \I
•
I
\
'

Fig. 6-56. First, lay a piece of plastic gauge wire along the length of the crankpin
(A), install the cap to factor torque, remove the cap, and measure wire gauge
width against scale on envelope (B). These repeat the operation using two
pieces of gauge wire around the fore and aft perimeter of the crankpin (C).

241
Secondary marks on rotating balance or accessory-drive shafts are
indexed to the crank or cam after primary alignment is made.
Occas ionally, timing marks wear away and the mechanic must
time the engine from the " rock " position. Rotate the crankshaft
to bring No. 1 piston to top dead center on what will become the
compression stroke. Install the camshaft; it should slip easily under
the tappets. Rock the crankshaft a degree or two on each side of
tdc, alternately engaging the intake and exhaust valves. Timing
is correct when freeplay splits evenly between the two valves. If
one va lve leads the other, repos ition the camshaft one tooth from
that valve.
Crankshafts that run on plain, main bearings extract easily with-
out interference with the camshaft. Timing marks should be clearly
visible from the top side of the block (A of Fig. 6-57). Some engines

awtKSHAFT

GEAR
KEYWAY

0
6~
~ SMALL
CAMSHAFT HOBBING
GEAR HOLE

CRANKSHAFT

GEAR ADVANCI MARK

KEYWAY ONE TOOTH

CAMSHAFT
GEAR

Fig. 6-57. Tecumseh uses the crankgear key as a timing referent. On all models
except one, this indexes with a stamped mark on the cam gear (A). The ex-
ception is the Craftsman-label engines with an elemental carburetor that are
advanced one tooth (B).

242
 CRANICPIN NEAii TOP
DEAD CENTER

0
©~'t.
0

TIMING MARI(
COUNTEIIWEICHT
OF CRANKSHAFT

Fig. 6-58. Axle-supported camshaft on engines w ith antifriction main bearings

must be dropped out of mesh for crankshaft access. Briggs & Stratton is shown
and C linton is similar.

employ the crankshaft gear keyway as one of the marks. Tecumseh-

made Craftsman engines with fixed-adjustment carburetors are
advanced one tooth for sake of mid-range torque (B of Fig. 6-57).
As far as I know, they are the only small engine deliberately
mistimed.
Antifriction (ball or tapered roller) bearing cranks can present
something of an extraction problem. The top-side bearing rides in
a carrier and , because of limited space, the camshaft must be
dropped out of position to maneuver the crankshaft throw out of
the block. Timing marks on the crankshaft side often take the form
of a chamfered tooth or may be stamped on the counterweight (Fig.
6-58).
Displace the camshaft by driving out the cam axle through the
magneto side of the block (Fig. 6-59). Note the expansion plug that
should be oil-proofed with sealant before assembly. Timing might
be easier if the associated crankshaft gear tooth is marked with
chalk or a crayon. This is particularly true on Briggs & Stratton
30400 and 320400 models.
Inspection. Figure 6-60 illustrates inspection points for a
Briggs & Stratton plain bearing cranks haft. Other makes do not
have the integral point cam, represented by the flat ·on the magneto
end, and there is normally no need to measure journal-bearing
diameter when antifriction bearings are fitted. These journals do
not wear unless the race has spun (in which case the crank may
not be salvageable). The crankshaft shown has an integral gear,
243
that is usually a separate part on other makers. Crank and cam drive
gears should be renewed as pairs.
Pay special attention to the crankpin . Check for out-of-round,
taper, and concentric wear as described under "Connecting Rods."
Remember that deep scratches are grounds for rejection. As
mentioned in that section, needle bearing crankpins require a glass-
smooth surface without the slightest hint of galling or rust pitting.
When oversized connecting rod bearing inserts are available, the
crankpin can be ground to fit. Otherwise repair is by way of
replacement.
Check oil ports for burrs and shavings that could restrict oil
flow to the bearings. Crank journals should be lightly polished
before assembly with 600 wet-or-dry emory cloth saturated in oil.
The best way to do this is to cut a strip of sand cloth to journal
width, \vrap it around the journal, and spin with a shoe lace of
leather thong. Remove all traces of abrasive from the crank and,
particularly, the oil drillings.
No small engine manufacturer allows crankshafts to be
straightened. This is primarily because of the legal ramifications
of a broken crankshaft and attached lawnmower blade or whatever.

Olt lVE SIDE

o~o
f
cc===~=====~-=-~? NAGIIE TO SI OE

•
CAN SNAFT

•
Fig. 6-59. While the crankshaft-side timing mark is usually on the gear, ex-
igencies of ball-bearing mains sometimes make this impossible. Then the timing
mark is on crankshaft counterweight.

244
 DISCARD CRANKSHAFT IF SMALL OR OUT OF ROUND
SEE CHART
JOURNAL JOURNAL JOURNAL
P.T.O. ENO· CRANKP IN MAGNE TO END DISCARD CRANKSHAFT
IF PLUNGER FLAT OR
KEYWAY ARE DAMAGED

GEAR TEETH
SHOULD NOT
BE WORN THREADS SHOULD
NOT BE DAMAGED

CRANKSHAFT SHOULD BE STRAIGHT

Fig. 6-60. With only a few exceptions, B&S crankshaft check procedure ap-
plies to other makes as well.

Another consideration is that a crankshaft bend-normally confined

to the top-side stub and extends out of the block-can displace the
counterweights, bowing the crankpin in the process.
Experienced and patient craftsmen can straighten cranks bent
a few thousandths. If you want to pursue the matter, recognize,
dear reader, that you are on your own and that describing this
process is not an invitation to perform it.
The work requires two machinist's vee-blocks, two dial
indicators, and a straightening fixture that is usually built around
a hydraulic jack. The crank is supported by the blocks at the main
bearings and the indicators are positioned near opposite ends of
the s haft. Total runout should be no more than 0.001 of an inch
(or 0.002 of an inch indicated). Using the fixture, the crank is
brought into tolerance in small increments with frequent checks.
Once the indicators agree, the crank is then sent out fo r magnetic
particle inspection to detect possible cracks. Skipping this final step,
which only costs a few dollars at an automotive machine shop, can
be disastrous fo r all concerned .
Upon assembly, check the crankshaft end play. Depending upon
block construction , this check is made internally (Fig. 6-61) or with
a dial indicator from outside of the engine. The amount of float is
not crucial so long as parts have ample expansion room. Typical
specs fall in the 0.003-inch-to-0.005-inch range. Several engine
makers supply thicker base or bearing cover gaskets for use when
the float has been absorbed by a new crank or flange. A thrust
washer-usually placed between crank and topside main and,
occasionally, on the magneto side-compensates for wear.
245
CAMSHAFTS
The cams haft rides on an axle pin (as shown back in Fig. 6-58)
or else is supported by plain bearings at the magneto side of the
block and the top-side cover. The latter type can be removed and
installed without compressing valve s prings if firs t turned to the
timing mark index position .
Most camshaft failure is obvious : Once the surface hardness
goes, the lobes wear, the round , gear teeth break, or the gear
fragments . A careful mechanic will meas ure valve lift and bearing
clearance. This is particularly true if the cam extends through the
engine to serve as a power takeoff. In most cases, cam drive side
bearings are placeable when wear exceeds 0.005 of an inch or so.
The cam might include a compression release to aid starting.
Briggs & Stratton displaces the cam laterally when the starter
engages to unseat the exhaust valve. Little can go wrong with this
device and no special service procedures are required. Tecumseh
and Kohler employ centrifugal compression releases that prevents
exhaust valve closure below 500 or 600 rpm (Fig. 6-62). Check the

_ _o
REAR B EARING
P L A TE

,'

"'--"---:-:- MEA SURE E N DPLAY

______j HER E

Fig . 6-61 . Crankshaft end play, or float, may be determined from inside of the
engine with feeler gauge between crank cheek and thrust bearing (as shown
on this Onan engine). It is more convenient to check flange-type engines ex-
ternally, at the pto stub.

246
 11

CAM
GEAR
ROLL PIN

INTAl(f
CA.-

SPRING

INTAKE EXHAUST\ PLUNGER (COMPRESSION

CAM CAM RELIEF PIN)

Fig. 6-62. Centrifugal compression release fitted to some Tecumseh engines

should be checked during overhaul and , if necessary, replaced as a unit with
the camshaft.

operation by hand and look for wear on pivots and weight stops.
Clinton and other manufacturers sometimes employ a cam-actuated
advance mechanism on engines with side-mounted magnetos.
Verify operation by hand. Remove springs only as necessary for
replacement.

MAIN BEARINGS
The crankshaft runs against plain or antifriction bearings or
a combination of both types with an antifrictio n bearing at the top
end. Plain bearings can be made of brass. In such cases they are
relatively easy to replace or are integral with an aluminum block.
Antifriction bearings usually are present as ball or roller bearings

247
with inner cones and outer races (cups) to protect both the
cranks haft and the castings. Some two-cycle engines have used
needle bearings (riding directly on the crank). Antifriction bearings
should be replaced at first sign of roughness and as part of every
engine rebuild.
Antifriction. Figure 6-63 illustrates the more or less typical
setup using two tapered roller bearings with a washer and shims
at the top s ide to control end play. Check by removing all traces
of lubricant from the bearings and spinning the outer races by hand.
Roughness or the tumbrel-like noise of loose cones means that the
bearing should be renewed.

CYLINDER COVER HO" RING

"C"
SHIM GA.5KET

_ o
STIEL W~ER
IF REQUIRED

.._____...., .
ROLI..ER
II BEARING

BEARING CUP
HO"

BOTTOM ON A
I
SHOULDE~

Fig. 6-63. Tecumseh roller bearing arrangement is typical of small industrial

engine practice. Shim gasket and optional washer determine crankshaft float .

248
 TIGHT EN N UTS
TO LOOSEN
BEARING

PULL BEARING BY
TURN ING CLOCKWISE

r'Jc - - - - - - WARNING -
c._~--i~'ffl"/,AJ DO NOT TIGHTEN
SPLITTER SO FAR
THAT IT STR IKES
THE CRANKSHAFT

. ....

Fig. 6-64 . Antifriction bearings remain on the crankshaft unless they will be
replaced . (Courtesy Clinton .)

Caution: Do not spin antifriction bearings with con1pressed

air. In addition to damage from water in the air source, the turbine
effect will overspeed the bearings.
Remove the bearing from the crankshaft with aid of a bearing
splitter (Fig. 6-64). Once drawn in this manner, bearings cannot
be reused. T he preferred method of installation is to heat the
bearing in a container of oil until the oil begins to smoke (a condition
that corresponds to a temperature of about 375 ° F).
The bearing should be supported away from the bottom of the
container with a wire mesh. The more usual method is to press the
bearing cold by supporting the crankshaft at the web and applying
force to the inner race only. Figure 6-65 illustrates this operation
for Kohler double-press fit bearings. First the bearing is pressed
into its cover with the arbor against the outboard race, and then
the cover assembly is installed with press force confined to the inner
race. Antifriction bearings seat flush against the shoulders provided.
Check end play against specification and adjust as necessary with
gaskets or shims.
Antifriction bearings are hardware items that can be purchased
from bearing-supply houses at some savings over dealer prices.
However, be certain that the replacement matches the original in
all respects. U nless you have certain information to the contrary,

249
I\)
Ol
0
11

0
cs c p'b-~ -----
1!

Fig . 6-65. Kohler K482 and K532 series engines employ pto bearings with double interference fit. The cup is pressed into bearing cover,
and then the inner race is pressed on the crankshaft . Supporting crankshaft web protects the crankpin .
do not specify the standard Cl clearance for bearings with inner
races. Ask for C3 or C4; they are looser fits to allow room for
thermal expansion.
Plain. Determine bearing clearance with inside and outside
micrometers and compare with factory specs for the engine in
question. Most are set up with 0.0015 inch new clearance and
tolerate some 0.0035 inch before rework.
All engines from major manufacturers can be rebushed, but
this is not a do-it-yourself project. The work is best left to a dealer
who has access to the necessary reamers, pilots, and drivers.
Thrus t bearings are normally present as a hardened washer
at the top end of the cranks haft. Kohler and other manufacturers
sometimes specify a proper babbit-coated or roller thrust bearing.
Poorly maintained vertical-shaft engines will develop severe galling

SEAL
SLEEVE
TOOL

DRIVE DOWN
WITH HAMMER
UNTIL SEAL IS
R.USH WITH
COVER

OIL
SEAL- - --.-r
- ~ = 4 = ~.........

BEARING OR
CYLINDER COVER
11111,IIMd from qilll
I.
USE THIS METHOD TO DRIVE Oil SEALS FLUSH
AND SQUARE INTO THE SEAL RECEPTACLE

Fig. 6-66. Always use the correct sized driver to ensure that installation stresses
are confined to the outer edge of seal retainer.

25 1
at the flange thrust face that can be corrected by resurfacing the
flange or replaci ng the casting.

SEALS
Seals, mounted outboard of the main bearings, contain the oil
supply for fou r-cycle engines and seal crankcase pressure in two-
strokes. Seal fail ure can be recognized by oil leaks at the crankshaft
ex.it points or , on two-cycle engines, by hard starting and chronically
lean fuel mixtur es. Seals should be re placed during an overhaul and
must be replaced to protect the investment of a rebuilt engine.
Install replacement seals with the maker 's mark vis ible and the
steep s ides of the lip toward the pressure. Lubricate the lip with
light grease and, unless the seal is already covered with a n
elastome r, coat the metal rim OD wi th gasket sealant. Be careful
not to allow the sea lant to spread to the lips or the oil return port
just inboard of the seal.
Installation is best done with a factory seal driver that
concentrates force on the rim OD. A length of pipe of the
appropriate dime nsion will suffice. Drive the seal to the original
depth (usually flush or just under flus h), unless the crankshaft seal
area is worn. In that case, adjust seal depth to engage an unworn
area on the crank, but do not block the oil return port in the process.
The crankshaft must be taped during installation to protect seal
lips from burrs, keyway edges, and threads. Celophane tape,
because it is relatively thin, works best.

GOVERNOR MECHANISMS
The unit shown in Fig. 6-67 is typical of the crankcase part
of most mechanical governor assemblies. Paired flyweights, driven
at some multiple of engine speed by the camshaft, pivot outward
with increasing force as rpm increases. This motion is translated
into vertical movement at the spool and appears as a restoring force
on the carburetor throttle linkage. Work the mechanisn1 by hand ,
checking for ease of operation and obvious wear. The governor
shaft presses into the block or flange casting and, in event of
replacement, must be secured with Loctite bearing mount and
installed at the proscribed height.

OILING SYSTEMS
Two-cycle engines are, of course, lubricated by oil mixed with

252
 GOVERNOR
SPOOL

GOVERNOR ~ \ RYWEIG~ i--..

\~EARO
\ \\\ ' I -------- /
~

Fig. 6-67. Typical centrifugal governor flyweight assembly employs plastic spool.

the fuel. Bearings may be vented with ports or milled slots to

encourage oil migration.
Four-cycle systems can be more complex and worthy of special
attention. Indeed, some of the best mechanics seem to spend an
inordinate amount of time tracing the circuits, cleaning those that
are accessible with rifle bore brushes and compressed air, and
making certain that blanking plugs are secure and pressure-tight.
Any of the three oiling systems are used. Most small, side-valve
engines depend upon a splash system, in which crankcase oil is
agitated by a dipper mounted on the connector rod cap or camshaft
gear. Briggs & Stratton engines in this class employ a camshaft-
driven slinger (Fig. 6-68). Other than thoroughly cleaning the inside
of the crankcase, checking dipper orientation (another reason to
make certain the rod cap is on right) and inspecting the slinger for
wear, no special maintenance procedures are required.
Because splash systems develop no pressure, lubrication
depends upon proximity and gravity return to the crankcase. Drilled
passages are not present to deliver oil to remote areas and neither
an oil filter or gauge can be fitted.
Semi-pressure systems combine splash with positive feed to some
bearings. The T ecumseh system, used on vertical crankshaft
engines, is fairly typical of the breed (Fig. 6-69). A small plunger-
type pump (Fig. 6-70), driven by the camshaft, draws oil from a
port on the cam during the pump intake stroke. As the plunger
telescopes closed, a second port on the camshaft hub aligns with
the pump barrel and oil is forced through the hollow camshaft to

253
 CYLINDER

Fig. 6-68. Early (left) and late-production Briggs & Stratton oil slingers. The
later variant may incorporate centrifugal governor weights and a wave washer
between bracket and flange. Bracket should be replaced with camshaft hole
ID is 0.49 of an inch or larger.

SPRAY MIST
HOLE
MAIN BEARING
OIL GROOVE

CAMSHAFT

DRILLED BARREL TYPE

CAMSHAFT LUBRICATION PUMP
PASSAGE

Fig. 6-69 . Tecumseh semipressure system pumps oil to the upper main bear-
ing and (optionally) to the crankpin.

254
 FLAT

J---------~rU-=====--.J'·S
-----,
FLAT MUST FACE OUT

Fig. 6-70. The plunger pump shown in extended (suction) and collapsed
(discharge) positions. Note that the flat faces out on assembly.

a passage on the magneto side of the block. Cross drillings in the

cams haft provide lubrication to the bearings. Once in the block
passage, the oil flows around a pressure-relief valve (set to pen at
7 psi) and into the upper main bearing well. Most models feature

Oil Level
11
...J--rlT Oil Pickup

Fig . 6-71 . Kohler full-pressure system splits the crankshaft into separate oil-
ing circuits.

255
a crankshaft drilling to provide oil to the crankpin.
Blow out the passages with air and check the pump for scores
and obvious wear. Replace pump plunger and barrel as a matched
assembly.
Ca ution: The pump must be assembled with the flat side out
and primed with clean motor oil before startup.
Some T ecumseh engines use an Eaton-type oil pump,
recognized by its star-shaped impellor. Check for scuffing on the
impellor and pump case ID. Clearance between impellor and pump
cover s hould be gasketed to 0.006-0.007 of an inch. Except for
relocation of the pressure relief valve in the flange between the
pump and camshaft, oi l circuitry is as previously discussed.
Full-pressure systems deliver pressurized oil to all crucial bearing
surfaces, although some parts receive lubrication from oil thrown
off the crankpin (cylinder bore, cam gear) or by oil flowing back
to the s ump (valve guides). The Kohler system, used on KTl 7 Se-
r ies II and KT19 Series II engines, is typical of most, (although
circuitry varies between engine makes and models). A conventional
gear-type pump supplies oil to the top s ide main, No. 1 crankpin
and to the camshaft that serves as a gallery to bring oil to the
magneto-side main bearing and No. 2 crankpin. A pressure-relief
valve, under the top-side main bearing carrier, limits pressure to
50 psi to prevent bearing erosion. Provision for an oil pressure
sendor is by way of a 1/16-inch NPTF plug on the top-side of the
crankcase. See Fig. 6-71.

256
Index
 Index
A Briggs & Stratton, 33, 40-42, 45, 49,
adjustment tabs, 88 51 -54, 60, 62, 70, 76, 96, 99,
adjustments, high-speed mixture, 86 110-13, 118, 119-20 , 126,
adjustments, idle rpm , 87 140-43, 130, 145, 157, 160-64,
adjustments, low-speed mixture, 87 167, 173-74, 187, 193-96, 204,
alignment, simple, 23 207-08, 211 , 238, 243, 254
alternator, 179 bushings, 169
angleich, 106 bushings, throttle shaft, 96
armature, 168, 171 bushings, throttle, 100
automatic advance mechanism , 28
C
B camshaft, 4, 112, 219, 246
barrel , detachable, 229 carbon deposits, 92, 193
barrel, integral, 229 carburetor cleaner, 95
batteries, 155 carburetor elements, 67
battery capacity, 36 carburetor nomenclature, 68
battery polarity, 180 carburetor, downdraft, 76
battery, 36, 178 carburetor, float, 73, 78
battery, lead-acid, 157 carburetor, lean-running, 94
battery, nicad , 159-63 carburetor, rich-running , 94
bearing, thrust , 170 carburetor, suction lift (fuel pump),
bearings , integral, 235 70
bearings, main, 3, 247 carburetor, suction-lift, 69
bearings, thrust, 251 carburetor, updraft, 76
Bendix carburetor cleaner, 95 carburetors and fuel systems, 67
Bendix, 165-67 carburetors, cleaning and repair of,
bore , 10, 231 95
bores, iron, 232 carburetors, float, 80
Bosch magneto, 57 carburetors , needle and seat
Bosch , 165, 170, 172 assemblies for, 96
brake horsepower, 13 carburetors, side-draft, 77
breather, 215 carburetors, temperamental , 85

259
carburetors, throttle slide, 91 engine power output, 189
carburetors, troubleshooting, 91 engine timing, 24
carburetors, types of. 69 engine, Chrysler West Bend , 84
castings, 101 engine, diagnosis, 186
charging systems, 178 engine, loop-scavenged , 9
choke, automatic, 183 engine, Magna-Matic, 57
Chrysler engines , 139 engine, rebuilding an , 191
Chrysler West Bend engine , 84 engine, single-cylinder, 2
circlips, 225 engine, two-cycle, 7
circuit, high-speed , 67 engines, air-cooled , 20
circuit, low-speed, 67 engines. basics of, 1
circuits, starting , 155 engines, Fairbanks-Morris, 134
clamp, homemade , 230 engines, four-cycle, 6
Clinton, 5, 56, 70-71 , 78, 179, 210, engines, motorcycle, 10
217 , 223, 233, 243, 249 engines, operation of, 4
clutch assemblies, 123 engines, single-cylinder Kohler, 16
clutch shoes, Fairbanks-Morse, 123 engines, single-cylinder utility, 69
clutch, 169 engines, two-cycle, 226
coil air gap, 64 engines, two-stroke-cycle, 8
coil and battery ignition , 183
coil and battery, 34 F
coils, electromagnetic field, 164 Fairbanks-Morse, 134-39
coils, em, 165 fields, 172
commutator, 170 filter, air, 21
compression ratio, 11 -12 filter, Kohler, 105
compression, 5 filters, air, 102
connecting rods, 234 filters , oil-bath , 103
contact points, 43 filters, polyurethane, 104
crankcase, 7, 8, 18, 115, 218 flange, 4
crankpin, 241 float bowl , 102
crankshaft shoulder, 45 flywheel gear, 169, 175
crankshaft threads, 43 flywheel hub, cracked , 44
crankshaft, 3, 5, 17, 25, 43-45, 219 , flywheel keys, damaged , 44
239-250 flywheel knocker, 43
crankshaft, horizontal , 218 flywheel puller, 42
crankshaft, vertical, 218 flywheel , 40-41 , 4 7, 55-56, 61-62 ,
cylinder block, 3 118, 146, 163, 167-68, 178,
cylinder bores, 230 188, 194
cylinder head, 1, 192-94 fuel intake, 5
cylinder, 10 ' fuel pump, 72, 108, 118
cylinder, honed , 232 fuel starvation, 93
fuel systems and carburetors, 67
D
G
Delco-Remy, 176
gases, exhaust, 6
diaphragm pumps, 113
gases, expansion of, 6
diodes, 174, 179
gear lash , 147
governor arm , 109
E governor mechanisms, 252
Eaton rewind starter, 119 governors, 104
Eaton, 120, 127-28 governors, air vane, 104
electrical system , 155-56 governors, centrifugal, 105-07
engine idle, 90 governors, fixed-speed , 106
engine knocks, 188
engine maintenance, 1 H
engine mechanics, 185 Harley-Davidson, 79
engine overhaul , 191 horsepower, 14

260
hp, indicated, 13 oil, weight requirements of 18
hp, taxable, 13 oiling systems, 252 '
hydrometer, using a, 158 Onan charging system , 181
Onan , 12, 15, 19, 26, 28, 36, 68, 73,
I 11 2- 14, 156, 171 , 195, 224,
idle, refusal to, 93 228, 236, 246
ignition coils, 55
ignition system output , insufficient p
33 '
performance data, 13
!gn!t_ion system , Magna-Matic, 49 Permatex , 64
ignition system, troubleshooting the
35 ' Phelon , 27
piston orientation 237
!gn!t!on systems, conventional , 34 . . '
piston pin, 3, 225
1gnit1on, 23, 187
piston position , 32
integral barrel, 229
piston rings, 1, 224, 226
piston rods, 222
J piston, 1, 5, 12I 220
Jacobsen , 23-24, 117 •
pistons and rings, 215
pistons, inspection of, 238
K
plugs, expansion , 100
Kohler engine, 75
plugs, welch , 100-01
Kohler, 25 , 29, 35, 75, 92 , 95, 105,
113, 165, 183, 187, 194, 198,
plunger
.
point alignment, 50
.
. wear, excessive 53
202, 205, 214, 218, 227, 249-56
point contacts, 52
po!nt disassembly, 52
L point gap adjustment, 25, 51
lean roll , 90 point-to-cam adjustment 26
lubrication, 17 . '
points and condenser
lubrication , splash, 19 troubleshooting, 48
points, 39
M points, filing, 55
magneto ignition, 182 points, gap , 54
magneto stator, 24 puller, hub, 41
magneto systems, 37 pump, fuel , 108, 110
magneto, 27, 47, 55-56, 61 pump, primer, 100
magneto, Bosch, 57 pumps, diaphragm , 113
magneto, parts of a, 37-38 pumps, mechanical, 11 0
magneto, troubleshooting a, 38
Magneton , 64
R
Magnetron CDI , retrofit of a , 60
rectifier, 172
Magnetron, 63
mainspring, 132, 140, 143, 150-51 r~lay and solenoid , 175
ring, compression , 228
motor generator, 176
rings and pistons 215
motor-generator, polarized , 177 .
rings , 221
'
motor-generators, wiring, 176
rod , connecting, 3-5
rods, 220
0 rods, connecting, 234
ohmmeter, checking diodes with an
174 '
oil consumption , 190 s
oil filters, 103 seals, 252
oil pump, 4 , 255-56 sheave, pivot shaft, 131
oil slingers, 254 sheave, split, 131
oil, 244 sheaver, one-piece, 133
oil, motor, 240 solenoid and relay, 175
oil, splash system, 253 solenoid , 156, 183

261
solid-state systems, 57 Tillotson , 80-89
spark plug gap, 39 timing drill details, 31
spring installation , 125 timing drill, Kohler single-cylinder,
spring , balance, 109 29
spring , rewind , 124 timing light, 27
springs, valve , 197-98 timing mark, 244
starter motors, 163, 175 timing methods, 23, 32
starter, Briggs & Stratton side-pull , timing procedures, 24
123, 198 torque , 13-14
starter, Eaton heavy-duty, 130
starter, Eaton rewind , 129 V
starter, Eaton , 132 valve gear modification , 214
starter, Fairbanks-Morse, 135 valve gear, 197
starter, gear-driven, 145 valve guides, 206, 209
starter, horizontal-engagement, 145 valve inspection, 200
starter, rewind, 122 valve lash adj ustment, 213
starter, troubleshooting, 118 valve lash , 214
starter, utility, 137 valve lathe, 203
starter, vertical-pull , vert ical- valve nomenclature, 199
engagement, 148-49 valve seal, 206
starters, rewind , 117 valve seats, 210-12
starters, service procedures for re- valve seats, loose, 211
wind , 119 valve, scrap, 212
starters, side-pull , 117 valves, 4, 194
starters, vertical pull, 137 Viton seat, 97
stator pedestal, 24 voltage regulator, 181
stroke, compression , 6 voltage, cranking , 159
stroke, exhaust, 6
stroke, power, 6 w
Walbro, 96-98
T West Bend, 24
Tecumseh COi system , the, 59 Wico, 24, 27, 56
Tecumseh overhead valve gear, 197 Wisconsin Robin, 25
Tecumseh , 10, 24 , 41 , 61 , 81 , 110,
144-46, 149, 162, 166, 173, X
180-82, 192-96, 242, 247-48, Xenon lamp, 34
254-56
throttle opening , 92 z
throttle, 67 Zenith small-engine carburetors, 75

262 Edned by Steven Bolt

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 How to Troubleshoot
and Repair Any Small Gas Engine
Paul Dempsey
Covers the full range of two- and four-(ycle engines
used in lawnmowers, chain saws, pumps, and small generators!
When your lawnmower grinds to a stop ... your chain saw won't
cut ... or your AV 's power generator shuts down ... the first thing
you probably th ink about is a huge repair bill! But wait, there's a
quicker and easier solution ... you can locate the problem and fix
it like a pro with the help of this exceptionally complete guidebook!
Now you can repair almost any two- and four-cycle gas engine
from all the major American manufacturers-Briggs & Stratton,
Clinton , Kohler, Onan, Tecumseh, OMC, West Bend, and others.
Troubleshooting . . . d isassembly . . . techn iques for repairing
every major engine system ... and reassembly .. . it's all covered
in easy-to-follow detail. Factory drawings and exploded diagrams
bring every step into practical focus as you learn basic repair theory
and specific techniques for each make and model engine. You'll also
discover that most repairs can be made with tools that are probably
already in your toolbox ... and if specialized tools are needed, Demp-
sey supplies parts numbers and sources (and in many cases shows
how you can actually fabricate your own tool at practically no cost)!
Just some of the book' s highlights include: •
• Factory identification codes-how to understand and decode them.
• Ignition system troubleshooting for both conventional and solid-
state models.
• Step-by-step conversion of a Briggs & Stratton point and condenser
ignition to solid-state.
• Troubleshooting and repair of charging and starting systems-
one of the most intimidating jobs for the novice.
• Carburetor and fuel system servicing procedures-with pro tips
not found in standard manuals.
• Adjustment of engine timing ... and much more.
Paul Dempsey is an experienced mechanic and writer. His many
previous books for TAB include How to Repair Briggs & Stratton
Engines-2nd Edition and How to Repair Diesel Engines .

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Blue Ridge Summit, Pa. 17214 l
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FPT > $1 0 -9 5 ISBN 0-8306-1967-4

PRICES HIGHER IN CANADA 1045-0985