Honda CRF 450 R 2007r. Service Manual Serwisówka

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The document provides information about maintaining a 2007 Honda CRF450R motocross motorcycle, including recommended fuel, oil, tire pressure, and periodic maintenance checks.

The document lists the recommended engine oil and transmission oil to use, as well as a maintenance schedule that includes checking items before each ride and performing services every few races or hours. It also mentions the importance of observing break-in guidelines and performing periodic checks detailed in the manual.

A high performance racing motorcycle intended for competition use in sanctioned motocross events. It utilizes the latest motocross technology.

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11 11:51 ページ1

2007
Honda CRF450R
OWNER’S MANUAL & COMPETITION HANDBOOK
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Introduction
Congratulations on choosing your Honda CRF As you read this manual, you will find
motocross motorcycle. information that is preceded by a NOTICE
symbol. This information is intended to help you
When you own a Honda, you’re part of a avoid damage to your Honda, other property, or
worldwide family of satisfied customers – people the environment.
who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building
quality into every product. Unless you are mechanically qualified and have
the proper tools, you should see your Honda
Your CRF is a high performance racing dealer for the service and adjustment procedures
motorcycle that utilizes the latest motocross discussed in this manual.
technology and is intended for competition use in
sanctioned, closed-course events by experienced The official Honda Service Manual for your CRF
riders only. is available (page 152). It is the same manual
your dealer uses. If you plan to do any service
Be aware that motocross is a physically on your CRF beyond the standard maintenance
demanding sport that requires more than just a procedures in this manual, you will find the
fine motorcycle. To do well, you must be in Service Manual a valuable reference.
excellent physical condition and be a skillful
rider. For the best results, work diligently on If you have any questions, or if you ever need a
your physical conditioning and practice special service or repairs, remember that your
frequently. Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is
dedicated to your complete satisfaction.
Before riding, take time to get acquainted with
your CRF and how it works. To protect your Please report any change of address or ownership
investment, we urge you to take responsibility for to your Honda dealer so we will be able to
keeping your CRF well maintained. Scheduled contact you concerning important production
service is a must, of course. But it’s just as information.
important to observe the break-in guidelines, and
perform all the pre-ride and other periodic checks You may also want to visit our website at
detailed in this manual. www.honda.com

You should also read the owner’s manual before Happy riding!
you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety
information, and helpful tips. To make it easy to California Proposition 65 Warning
use, the manual contains a table of contents, a WARNING: This product contains or emits
detailed list of topics at the beginning of each chemicals known to the State of California to
section, and an index at the back of the book. cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm.

Introduction
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A Few Words About Safety


Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. And operating this motorcycle safely is an important responsibility.

To help you make informed decisions about safety, this manual contains a section devoted to Motorcycle Safety, as well as a number of Safety Messages
throughout the manual.

Safety Messages are preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words: DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.

These signal words mean:

DANGER You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.

WARNING You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY HURT if you don’t follow instructions.

CAUTION You CAN be HURT if you don’t follow instructions.

Of course, it is not practical or possible to warn you about all hazards associated with operating or maintaining a motorcycle. You must use your own good
judgement.

Safety Messages
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Contents
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY...............................1 Service Procedures TIPS ................................................................133
Important Safety Information..............................2 Fluids & Filters Transporting Your Motorcycle ........................134
Important Safety Precautions..........................2 Fuel System.......................................................34 Storing Your Honda.........................................135
Accessories & Modifications ..............................3 Engine Oil .........................................................36 You & the Environment ..................................136
Safety Labels.......................................................4 Transmission Oil ...............................................39 Troubleshooting...............................................137
Coolant ..............................................................41
OPERATING CONTROLS .............................5 Air Cleaner ........................................................43 TECHNICAL INFORMATION ..................139
Operation Component Locations ........................6 Crankcase Breather ...........................................45 Vehicle Identification ......................................140
Specifications ..................................................141
BEFORE RIDING ............................................7 Engine Torque Specifications......................................142
Are You Ready to Ride? .....................................8 Throttle ..............................................................46 Oxygenated Fuels............................................145
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?....................9 Engine Idle Speed .............................................48 Competition Logbook .....................................146
Pre-ride Inspection..........................................9 Clutch System ...................................................49 Optional Parts List ..........................................148
Hot Start Lever..................................................53 Spare Parts & Equipment................................149
BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ......11 Spark Plug .........................................................54 Wiring Diagram...............................................150
Safe Riding Precautions................................12 Valve Clearance.................................................55
Starting & Stopping the Engine ........................13 Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin..........................65 CONSUMER INFORMATION ...................151
Break-in Guidelines ..........................................15 Authorized Manuals ........................................152
Chassis Contacting Honda............................................153
SERVICING YOUR HONDA........................17 Suspension.........................................................73 Your Honda Dealer..........................................154
Before You Service Your Honda Brakes................................................................77 The Honda Rider’s Club .................................155
The Importance of Maintenance .......................18 Wheels...............................................................81
Maintenance Safety...........................................19 Tires & Tubes ....................................................82 TABLE OF CONTENTS ..............................156
Important Safety Precautions........................19 Drive Chain .......................................................84
Maintenance Schedule ......................................20 Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ........................................87 INDEX ............................................................158
General Competition Maintenance ...................22 Additional Maintenance Procedures .................90
Before & After Competition Maintenance........26 Appearance Care ...............................................92 QUICK REFERENCE
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....26
After Competition Maintenance ...................26 ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION .....95
Front Suspension Adjustments..........................96
Service Preparations Rear Suspension Adjustments.........................109
Maintenance Component Locations..................28 Suspension Adjustments for Track
Seat Removal ....................................................29 Conditions ...................................................113
Fuel Tank Removal ...........................................30 Suspension Adjustment Guidelines.................114
Subframe Removal............................................32 Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips ..........117
Chassis Adjustments........................................129
Gearing ............................................................130
Tire Selection for Track Conditions................131
Personal Fit Adjustments ................................132

Contents
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Motorcycle Safety
This section presents some of the most important Important Safety Information...............................2
information and recommendations to help you Important Safety Precautions..........................2
ride your CRF safely. Please take a few Accessories & Modifications ...............................3
moments to read these pages. This section also Safety Labels ........................................................4
includes information about the location of the
safety labels on your CRF.

Motorcycle Safety 1
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Important Safety Information


Don’t Drink and Ride.
Important Safety Precautions Alcohol and riding don’t mix. Even one drink
can reduce your ability to respond to changing
Your CRF can provide many years of pleasure, if conditions, and your reaction time gets worse
you take responsibility for your own safety and with every additional drink. So don’t drink and
understand the challenges you can meet in ride, and don’t let your friends drink and ride
competitive racing. either.

As an experienced rider, you know there is much Keep your Honda in Safe Condition.
you can do to protect yourself when you ride. Maintaining your CRF properly is critical to your
The following are a few precautions we consider safety. A loose bolt, for example, can cause a
most important. breakdown in which you can be seriously
injured.
Never Carry a Passenger.
Your CRF is designed for one operator only.
Carrying a passenger can cause an accident in
which you and others can be hurt.

Wear Protective Gear.


Whether you’re practicing to improve your skills,
or riding in competition, always wear an
approved helmet, eye protection, and proper
protective gear.

Take Time to Get to Know Your CRF.


Because every motorcycle is unique, take time to
become thoroughly familiar with how this one
operates and responds to your commands before
placing your machine, and yourself, in
competition.

Learn and Respect Your Limits.


Never ride beyond your personal abilites or faster
than conditions warrant. Remember that alcohol,
drugs, illness and fatigue can reduce your ability
to perform well and ride safety.

2 Motorcycle Safety
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Accessories & Modifications


Accessories & Modifications

Installing non-Honda accessories, removing


original equipment, or modifying your CRF in
any way that would change its design or
operation, could seriously impair your CRF’s
handling, stability, and braking, making it unsafe
to ride.

WARNING
Improper accessories or modifications
can cause a crash in which you can be
seriously hurt or killed.

Follow all instructions in this owner’s


manual regarding modifications and
accessories.

Motorcycle Safety 3
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Safety Labels
Read this label carefully and don’t remove it.

If the label comes off or becomes hard to read, contact your Honda dealer for replacement.

4 Motorcycle Safety
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Operating Controls
Read this section carefully before you ride. It Operation Component Locations .........................6
presents the location of the basic controls on your
CRF.

Operating Controls 5
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Operation Component Locations


hot start lever
clutch lever front brake lever

engine stop button throttle grip

choke knob kickstarter

fuel valve shift lever rear brake pedal

6 Operating Controls
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Before Riding
Before each ride, you need to make sure you and Are You Ready to Ride?.......................................8
your Honda are both ready to ride. To help get Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?.....................9
you prepared, this section discusses how to Pre-ride Inspection .............................................9
evaluate your riding readiness, and what items
you should check on your CRF.

For information about suspension, carburetor,


and other adjustment, see page 95.

Before Riding 7
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Are You Ready to Ride?


Before riding your CRF for the first time, we
strongly recommend that you read this owner’s WARNING
manual, make sure you understand the safety Not wearing a helmet increases the
messages, and know how to operate the controls. chance of serious injury or death in a
crash.
Before each ride, it’s also important to make sure
you and your CRF are both ready to ride. Be sure you always wear a helmet, eye
protection and other protective apparel
For information about suspension, carburetor, when you ride.
and other adjustments, see page 95.

Whether you’re preparing for competition or for


practice, always make sure you are:

• In good physical and mental condition

• Free of alcohol and drugs

• Wearing an approved helmet, eye protection,


and other appropriate riding gear

Although complete protection is not possible,


wearing the proper gear can reduce the chance or
severity of injury when you ride.

8 Before Riding
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Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?


Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle,
so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct Pre-ride Inspection
any problems you find before each ride. Check
the following items (page numbers are at the Check the following before each ride:
right): • Engine oil level .............................................37
• Transmission oil level...................................40
WARNING • Coolant for proper level............................... 41
• Cooling system and hoses for condition.......42
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or • Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon
failing to correct a problem before riding fouling and high tension cord terminal for
can cause a crash in which you can be looseness .......................................................54
seriously hurt or killed. • Air cleaner for condition and
contamination................................................43
Always perform a pre-ride inspection • Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay ...........49
before every ride and correct any • Hot starter operation and freeplay ................53
problems. • Breather drain for cleaning ...........................45
• Steering head bearing and related parts
for condition..................................................90
• Carburetor throttle operation ........................46
• Tires for damage or improper inflation
pressure ........................................................82
• Spokes for looseness.....................................81
• Rim locks for looseness................................81
• Front and rear suspension for proper
operation ..................................................73,74
• Front and rear brakes, check operation ........77
• Drive chain for correct slack and adequate
lubrication ................................................84,85
• Drive chain guide, sliders and guide rollers
for damage or wear ..................................84,85
• Exhaust pipe/Muffler inspection...................87
• Every possible part for looseness (such as
cylinder head nuts, engine mounting bolts,
axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts, fork bridge
pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster, drive chain
guide, wire harness connectors, kickstarter
mounting bolt) .....................................142-144

Before Riding 9
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10 Before Riding
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Basic Operating Instructions


This section gives basic information on how to Safe Riding Precautions .....................................12
start and stop your engine as well as break-in Starting & Stopping the Engine .........................13
guidelines. Preparation ....................................................13
Starting Procedure ........................................13
Flooded Engine .............................................13
How to Stop the Engine................................14
Break-in Guidelines ...........................................15

Basic Operating Instructions 11


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Basic Operating Instructions


Safe Riding Precautions

Before riding your CRF for the first time, please


review the Important Safety Precautions
beginning on page 2 and the previous section,
titled Before Riding.

For your safety, avoid starting or operating the


engine in an enclosed area such as a garage.
Your CRF’s exhaust contains poisonous carbon
monoxide gas which can collect rapidly in an
enclosed area and cause illness or death.

12 Basic Operating Instructions


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Starting & Stopping the Engine


Always follow the proper starting procedure Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant Warm Engine Starting
described below. levels before starting the engine (pages 37,40,41). 1. Turn the fuel valve ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
Your CRF can be kickstarted with the Cold Engine Starting 3. Pull the hot start lever (3) and kick-start the
transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever 1. Turn the fuel valve (1) ON. engine. (Do not open the throttle.)
before operating the kickstarter. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
3. If the temperature is 95°F (35°C) or below, start lever.
pull the choke knob (2) fully out.
Preparation 4. If the temperature is below 32°F (0°C), open
the throttle two or three times. (The engine
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral. requires a richer mixture for starting in cold
Turn the fuel valve ON. weather. When the throttle is so opened, the
accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the
cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold
Starting Procedure weather.) (3)
5. With the throttle closed, operate the
Always follow the proper starting procedure kickstarter starting from the top of the (3) hot start lever
described as follow. kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom
ON OFF
with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open Starting the engine after a stall during riding or
the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with after a fall:
an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be 1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
charged into the engine, and the spark plug 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the
will be fouled if the throttle is opened and engine. (Do not open the throttle).
closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
makes kickstarting difficult.) start lever.
6. About a minute after the engine starts, push
the choke knob all the way to fully OFF. Flooded Engine
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
(2)
(1) If the engine fails to start after repeated attempts,
it may be flooded with excess fuel. To clear a
(1) fuel valve (2) choke knob flooded engine:

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.


2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately ten times
very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from
the engine.
3. With the throttle closed, pull the hot start
lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open
the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot
start lever.

Basic Operating Instructions 13


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Starting & Stopping the Engine


How to Stop the Engine

(1)

(2)

(1) throttle (2) engine stop button

Normal Engine Stop


1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3. Lightly open the throttle (1) two or three
times, and then close it.
4. Depress and hold the engine stop button (2)
until the engine stops completely.

Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the


carburetor to overflow, result in hard starting.

Emergency Engine Stop


To stop the engine in an emergency, press the
engine stop button.

14 Basic Operating Instructions


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Break-in Guidelines
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and
performance by paying extra attention to how
you ride during the first operating day or 15
miles (25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and
rapid acceleration.

This same procedure should be followed each


time when:

• piston is replaced
• piston rings are replaced
• cylinder is replaced
• crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced

Basic Operating Instructions 15


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16 Basic Operating Instructions


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Servicing Your Honda


Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely Before You Service Your Honda Chassis
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to The Importance of Maintenance ........................18 Suspension..........................................................73
protect your investment, get maximum Maintenance Safety ............................................19 Front Suspension Inspection........................73
performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more Important Safety Precautions........................19 Rear Suspension Inspection.........................74
fun. Maintenance Schedule .......................................20 Recommended Fork Oil ..............................75
General Competition Maintenance ....................22 Fork Oil Change ..........................................75
To help keep your CRF in good shape, this Before & After Competition Maintenance.........26 Brakes.................................................................77
section includes a Maintenance Schedule for Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....26 Wheels ................................................................81
required servicing and step-by-step instructions After Competition Maintenance ...................26 Tires & Tubes .....................................................82
for specific maintenance tasks. You’ll also find Drive Chain ........................................................84
important safety precautions, information on oils, Service Preparations Exhaust Pipe/Muffler .........................................87
and tips for keeping your Honda looking good. Maintenance Component Locations...................28 Additional Maintenance Procedures ..................90
Seat Removal .....................................................29
An ICM (Ignition Control Module) system is Fuel Tank Removal ............................................30 Appearance Care ................................................92
used on this motorcycle; consequently, routine Subframe Removal.............................................32
ignition timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you
want to check the ignition timing, refer to the Service Procedures
Honda Service Manual (page 152).
Fluids & Filters
An optional tool kit may be available. Check Fuel System ........................................................34
with your Honda dealer’s parts department. Engine Oil ..........................................................36
Transmission Oil ................................................39
Coolant ...............................................................41
Air Cleaner .........................................................43
Crankcase Breather ............................................45

Engine
Throttle ...............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed ..............................................48
Clutch System ....................................................49
Hot Start Lever...................................................53
Spark Plug ..........................................................54
Valve Clearance..................................................55
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin...........................65

Servicing Your Honda 17


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The Importance of Maintenance


Keeping your CRF well-maintained is absolutely
essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to
get maximum performance during each moto.
Careful pre-ride inspections and good
maintenance are especially important because
your CRF is designed to be ridden in off-road
competition.

Remember, proper maintenance is your


responsibility. Be sure to inspect your CRF
before each ride and follow the Maintenance
Schedule in this section.

WARNING
Improperly maintaining this motorcycle or
failing to correct a problem before you
ride can cause a crash in which you can
be seriously hurt or killed.

Always follow the inspection and


maintenance recommendations and
schedules in this owner’s manual.

18 Servicing Your Honda


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Maintenance Safety
This section includes instructions on how to • Read the instructions before you begin, and
perform some important maintenance tasks. make sure you have the tools and skills
Some of the most important safety precautions required.
follow. However, we cannot warn you of every
conceivable hazard that can arise in performing • To help prevent the motorcycle from falling
maintenance. Only you can decide whether or over, park it on a firm, level surface, using an
not you should perform a given task. optional workstand or a maintenance stand to
provide support.
WARNING • To reduce the possibility of a fire or
Failure to properly follow maintenance explosion, be careful when working around
instructions and precautions can cause gasoline. Use only a non-flammable (high
you to be seriously hurt or killed. flash point) solvent such as kerosene —not
gasoline— to clean parts. Keep cigarettes,
Always follow the procedures and sparks, and flames away from all fuel-related
precautions in this owner’s manual. parts.

Important Safety Precautions

• Make sure the engine is off before you begin


any maintenance or repairs.
This will help eliminate several potential
hazards:

Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine


exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation
whenever you operate the engine.

Burns from hot motorcycle parts. Let the


engine and exhaust system cool before
touching.

Injury from moving parts. Do not run the


engine unless instructed to do so.

Servicing Your Honda 19


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Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the safety and reliability of your Perform the pre-ride inspection (page 9) at each
CRF, regular inspection and service is required as scheduled maintenance period.
shown in the Maintenance Schedule that follows.
Summary of Maintenance Schedule Notes and
The Maintenance Schedule lists items that can be Procedures:
performed with basic mechanical skills and hand
tools. Procedures for these items are provided in Notes:
this manual. 1. Clean after every moto for dusty riding
conditions.
The Maintenance Schedule also includes items 2. Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires
that involve more extensive procedures and may mechanical skill.
require special training, tools, and equipment. 3. Replace after the first break-in ride.
Therefore, we recommend that you have your 4. Inspect after the first break-in ride.
Honda dealer perform these tasks unless you
have advanced mechanical skills and the required Maintenance Procedures:
tools. Procedures for items in this schedule are I: inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate, or replace,
provided in a service manual available for if necessary
purchase from your Honda dealer (page 152). C: clean
L: lubricate
Service intervals in the maintenance schedule are R: replace
expressed in terms of races and riding hours. To
avoid overlooking required service, we urge you
to develop a convenient way to record the
number of races and/or hours you ride.

If you do not feel capable of performing a given


task or need assistance, remember that your
Honda dealer knows your CRF best and is fully
equipped to maintain and repair it. If you decide
to do your own maintenance, use only genuine
Honda parts or their equivalents for repair or
replacement to ensure the best quality and
reliability.

20 Servicing Your Honda


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Maintenance Schedule
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection (page 9) at each scheduled maintenance period.
I: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. L: Lubricate. R: Replace.

FREQUENCY
Each race Every 3 races Every 6 races Every 9 races Every 12 races
NOTE or about or about or about or about or about Ref. Page
2.5 hours 7.5 hours 15.0 hours 22.5 hours 30.0 hours
ITEMS
THROTTLE OPERATION I 47
HOT START SYSTEM I 53
AIR FILTER (NOTE 1) C 43
CRANKCASE BREATHER I 45
SPARK PLUG I 54
RADIATOR COOLANT (NOTE 2) I 41
VALVE CLEARANCE / DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM (NOTE 4) I 55/62
ENGINE OIL (NOTE 3) R 36
ENGINE OIL FILTER (NOTE 3) R 37
ENGINE IDLE SPEED I 48
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS R 68
PISTON PIN R 68
TRANSMISSION OIL R 39
COOLING SYSTEM I 41
DRIVE CHAIN I,L R 84
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER I 84
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER I 85
DRIVE SPROCKET I 86
DRIVEN SPROCKET I 86
BRAKE FLUID (NOTE 2) I 78
BRAKE PADS WEAR I 80
BRAKE SYSTEM I 77
CLUTCH SYSTEM I 49
CONTROL CABLES I,L 90
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER I 87
SUSPENSION I 73,74
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE L 25,74
FORK TUBE/SLIDER (NOTE 3) R 75
FORK OIL
DAMPER R 101
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS I 91,142-144
WHEELS/TIRES I 81-83
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS I 90

This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent servicing.

NOTE: 1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.


2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.

Servicing Your Honda 21


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General Competition Maintenance


Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
optional workstand, or equivalent support.

When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with


the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.

Use genuine Honda parts or their equivalent


when servicing your CRF.

Clean parts in non-flammable (high flash point)


cleaning solvent (such as kerosene) when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface,
O-rings, and seals before reassembling. Grease
parts by coating or filling where specified.

After any engine disassembly, always install new


gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, piston pin clips,
snap rings, etc. when reassembling. After
reassembly, check all parts for proper installation
and operation.

All Pre-ride Inspection Items


Refer to Pre-ride Inspection page 9.

22 Servicing Your Honda


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General Competition Maintenance


Spark Plug Spark Plug Cap Air Cleaner
Some non-resistor plugs may cause ignition problems. Refer Install a small plastic tie-wrap around the spark plug cap to Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly because the volume
to the recommendations elsewhere in this manual for specific reduce any possibility of it loosening or of water of air able to pass through it has a great effect on
types so you will be sure to use the proper reach and heat penetration. performance. Both engine performance and long term
range. Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance durability may be affected by an air cleaner that has
Schedule. (page 21). deteriorated and allows dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner
closely each time it’s serviced for evidence of small tears or
seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions
may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a
pre-serviced air cleaner between motos. Be careful not to
over oil the air cleaner. While it is important to oil the air
cleaner thoroughly, over oiling will cause an overall rich
running condition, probably more noticeable off idle and in
low rpm performance. Follow the servicing instructions in
the Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or
an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner flange where
it contacts the air cleaner housing. Pro Honda White
Lithium Grease, or an equivalent, is handy for this because
any dirt that penetrates this sealing area will show up clearly
(page 43).
Use the Honda genuine air cleaner or an equivalent air
Engine Oil and Filter cleaner specified for your model.
Drain and replace engine oil often to ensure the greatest Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda air
service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft. cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may cause
Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the greatest premature engine wear or performance problems.
service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent
performance of power and response. (page 37).

Transmission Oil Air Cleaner Housing Sealing


Drain and replace transmission oil often to ensure the Remove and reseal the air cleaner housing boot where it
greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent connects to the air cleaner housing with Pro Honda Handgrip
changes will also assure consistent performance of both Cement or equivalent there is any doubt to its sealing
shifting and clutch action (page 40). integrity. Inspect the air cleaner and air intake tract regularly
for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.

Servicing Your Honda 23


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General Competition Maintenance


Handgrips Gaskets Fuel Filter
Always use Pro Honda Handgrip Cement when replacing Always use new gaskets when reassembling components. Periodically drain the fuel from the fuel tank, remove and
handgrips. clean the fuel valve/filter. Replace the fuel valve O-ring if
Refer to the Service Manual for installation Cylinder Removal there are any signs of damage or deterioration (page 35).
instructions. Put a little grease on the cylinder mounting dowels to
prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals. The tolerances are Fuel Contamination
Throttle Grip quite tight, so it’s important to keep these dowels absolutely Refer to Fuel System in your Owner’s Manual, page 34.
Align the index mark on the throttle grip with the index mark clean (page 67). Check the fuel lines for deterioration, damage, or leakage.
of the throttle cable guide. Left handlebar grip: Align the “∆” Replace the fuel lines, if necessary.
mark on the left handlebar grip with the paint mark on the Periodically drain the fuel from the tank, remove and clean
handlebar. the fuel valve and fuel filter. Replace the fuel valve O-ring if
there are any signs of damage or deterioration (page 35).
Loosen the carburetor drain screw and examine the fuel that
flows out of the float bowl. If you notice anything in the fuel,
such as water or dirt, remove the float bowl and inspect its
contents (page 119).
For maximum efficiency, drain and replace fuel that has
remained in your fuel tank for more than a month.

For added security, you may choose to bind the hand grips to
the handlebar and throttle pipe with safety wires to prevent
the possibility of them loosening. Position the twisted wire
ends away from your palms and be sure to bend the wire
ends well into the handgrip rubber so they will not snag your
glove.
Electrical Connectors
Clean electrical connectors and wrap them with electrical
tape to reduce the possibility of unwanted disconnections,
water shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is
offered by using Pro Honda Dielectric Grease on all
electrical connections.

Throttle Control
Remove the throttle control every few rides, clean the inside
of the throttle pipe and handlebar thoroughly, and apply a
light coating of oil. Inspect the cable carefully for kinks or
other damage that may restrict throttle control in anyway.
Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts
Move the handlebar from lock to lock to be sure there is no
Make sure the engine mounting bolts and nuts are tightened
cable interference. Make certain the throttle operation is
to the proper torque specification. For added peace of mind,
perfect after servicing and inspecting.
remove the nuts, clean the threads, and apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.

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General Competition Maintenance


Suspension Linkage Lubrication Brake Fluid Replacement Steering Head Bearings
Disassemble, clean, inspect and lubricate all suspension Refer to Brake Pad Wear in your Owner’s Manual, page 80. Periodically clean, inspect and regrease the steering head
linkage pivots with grease after each 7.5 hours of running Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both the front and rear bearings — especially if wet, muddy or extremely dusty
time in order to maintain proper suspension performance and calipers are able to move freely on the caliper pin and caliper courses are encountered often.
minimize component wear. bracket pins. Check pad thickness periodically and replace Use urea based multi-purpose grease designed for high
the pads when minimum thickness is reached. If the brakes temperature, high pressure performance (example: EXELITE
fade when they are hot, inspect the pads for glazing or EP2 manufactured by KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell
damage, and replace if necessary. Stamina EP2 or equivalent)
Brake Fluid Replacement: Replace the hydraulic fluid in the
brake system every 2 years. Replace the fluid more
frequently if you subject your brakes to severe use. Heavy
braking heats the brake fluid and it may deteriorate sooner
than expected. Any type of riding, that requires frequent use
of the brakes, such as in tight woods, can shorten the service
life of brake fluid.

Fork Oil/Performance
Swingarm Pivot Lubrication Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil
Clean, inspect and lubricate the swingarm and suspension regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles
linkage pivots with gease. Be sure all of the dust seals are in produced from the normal action of the fork, as well as
good condition. normal oil breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of
the suspension. Refer to the Honda Service Manual. Use
only Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or equivalent which
contains special additives to assure maximum performance
of your CRF’s front suspension.

Frame
Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the frame
should not be overlooked as part of your overall competition
maintenance program. Periodically inspect the frame
closely for possible cracking or other damage. It makes
Swingarm good racing sense.
Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged
swingarm. Welding will weaken the swingarm. Spokes
Check spoke tension frequently between the first few rides.
Footpegs As the spokes, spoke nuts and rim contact points seat-in, the
Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by filing the grooves spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial
between the teeth with a triangular shaped file. seating-in period, the spokes should hold their tension. Still,
Water Leakage Check Hole
Be aware that filing them too sharp will reduce boot sole be sure your race maintenance program includes checking
After every race, check the leakage check hole, located just
lifespan. Sharpen only the points of the teeth. Filing the spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis
below the water pump cover on the right crankcase cover.
grooves deeper will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs (page 81).
Clean away any clogged dirt or sand, if necessary. Look for
are free to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter coolant or oil leakage. Leaking coolant indicates a worn or
pins are in good condition. Nuts, Bolts, Etc
damaged water seal. Leaking oil indicates a bad
Application of a thread locking agent to essential fasteners
transmission oil seal. If replacement is necessary, both seals
offers added assurance and security. Remove the nuts, clean
should be replaced.
the threads of both the nuts and bolts, apply Pro Honda
Hondalock or an equivalent and tighten to the specified
torque.

Servicing Your Honda 25


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Before & After Competition Maintenance


Between Motos & Practice Maintenance After Competition Maintenance

After practice or between motos you have a It is important to the long term performance of
chance to make additional checks and your CRF to practice a consistent maintenance
adjustments. (1) program. Right after the event is a good time to
begin your next maintenance cycle.
• Clean accumulated dirt from under the
fenders and off the wheels, suspension After Race Lubrication
components, handgrips, controls, and Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the
footpegs. A stiff, nylon parts cleaning brush drive sprocket and any steel portions of the
works well. chassis or engine where the paint has worn away.
• Check tire air pressure. (1) chain adjuster index marks This will prevent rusting of the exposed metal.
• Check spoke tension and rim lock nut security. Apply rust-inhibiting oil more heavily if the
• Suspend the front wheel above the ground and event was particularly wet or muddy. Take care
use the pressure release screws (2) to release to avoid spraying any oil near the brake pads or
the built-up pressure (in excess of normal the brake discs.
atmospheric pressure: 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm2))
in the fork tubes. This pressure is caused by Take care to prevent catching your fingers
normal fork action while riding. (If you are between the chain and sprocket.
riding at altitude, remember that fork pressure
of 0 at sea level will increase as elevation Remove the drive chain, clean and lubricate it
increases.) (page 85). Be sure the chain is wiped clean and
is dry before lubricating the chain.
(2)
• Check sprocket bolt and nut security.
• Clean the sides of the drive chain with a stiff,
nylon parts-cleaning brush. Lubricate and
adjust the chain as necessary.

Do not perform maintenance while engine is


running. Injury to your fingers or hands may
result.

• After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster


index marks (1) are in the same position on (2) pressure release screws
each side. This will ensure that the rear wheel
is in proper alignment and allow maximum
performance from the rear disc brake.
Maintaining proper wheel alignment will also
extend brake pad wear.

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Before & After Competition Maintenance


Routine Cleaning
If your CRF is only slightly dirty, it is best to
clean it by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled
nylon brush and some clean rags.

Take care to prevent catching your fingers


between the chain and sprocket.

A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes


are available from variety, drug, food, and
hardware stores. Some of these brushes are
extremely useful in removing dirt from the many
tight contours of the metal pieces of your CRF.
Avoid using stiff, abrasive brushes on the plastic
or rubber parts.

If your CRF was exposed to sea air or salt water,


rinse it as soon as possible after the event, dry it,
and apply a spray lubricant to all metal parts.

If you decide to wash your CRF or use cleaners,


refer to Appearance Care (page 92).

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Maintenance Component Locations


hot start lever
clutch lever
front brake fluid reservoir

front brake lever

throttle grip

radiator cap

fuel fill cap

front suspension compression


rear suspension
spark plug · rear suspension high speed damping adjuster
rebound damping
damping adjuster adjuster
engine oil choke knob rear suspension · rear suspension low speed
filler cap air cleaner spring pre-load damping adjuster
engine idle adjuster
speed

crankcase
front brake breather
caliper tube

engine oil rear brake


inspection transmission oil pedal
rear brake transmission oil front suspension
engine oil window engine oil drain bolt fluid reservoir
drive chain rear brake check bolt transmission rebound damping
filter drain bolt oil filler cap adjuster
caliper

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Seat Removal
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. Installation
1. Install the seat while aligning the seat front
Removal prong (3) with the seat bracket (4) and seat
1. Remove the seat mounting bolts (1). rear prong (5) with the frame (6).
2. Remove the seat (2) by sliding it backward. 2. Install and tighten the seat mounting bolts to
the specified torque:
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(2)

(5)

(3)

(4)

(1)

(1) seat mounting bolts (2) seat


(6)

(3) seat front prong


(4) seat bracket
(5) seat rear prong
(6) frame

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Fuel Tank Removal


Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 5. Pull the breather tube (4) out of steering stem 9. Disconnect the fuel line (8) from the fuel
nut. valve (9). The fuel line leading to the
Removal 6. Unhook the fuel tank band (5). carburetor must be disconnected, not the fuel
1. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 7. Unhook the air cleaner case cover (6) and line leading to the fuel tank.
2. Remove the seat (page 29). remove the fuel tank band. 10. Remove the fuel valve bolt (10) and fuel
3. Remove the shroud A bolts/collars (1). 8. Remove the fuel tank bolt/collar (7). valve.
4. Remove the shroud B bolts (2) and shrouds 11. Remove the fuel tank.
(3).
(3) (2)
(4) WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
(7) explosive. You can be burned or
(6)
seriously injured when handling fuel.
(5)
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.

(1) (4) breather tube (10)


(5) fuel tank band
(1) shroud A bolts/collars (6) air cleaner case cover
(2) shroud B bolts (7) fuel tank bolt/collar
(3) shrouds
(8)

(9)

(8) fuel line (10) fuel valve bolt


(9) fuel valve

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Fuel Tank Removal


Installation 7. Put the breather tube (7) in the steering stem 9. Install the shroud B bolts (11) and A bolts/
1. Install the fuel tank on the frame. nut. collars (12).
2. Install the fuel valve (1) and tighten the fuel
valve bolt (2). (11)
3. Connect the fuel line (3) to the fuel valve.
(7)
(2)

(3)

(12)

(7) breather tube (11) shroud B bolts


(1) (12) shroud A bolts/collars
8. Install the shrouds (8) by aligning it’s tab (9)
(1) fuel valve (3) fuel line with subframe (10). 10. Install the seat (page 29).
(2) fuel valve bolt
(9)
4. Install and tighten the fuel tank bolt/collar (4).
5. Install and hook the fuel tank band (5).
6. Hook the air cleaner case cover (6).

(4)

(5)

(8)
(6) (10)

(8) shrouds (10) subframe


(9) tab

(4) fuel tank bolt/collar


(5) fuel tank band
(6) air cleaner case cover

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Subframe Removal
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 5. Disconnect the crankcase breather tube (7). Installation
6. Unhook the air cleaner case cover (8). 1. Loosely attach the upper and lower ends of
Removal 7. Unhook the fuel tank band (9), and remove it. the subframe (1) to the mainframe while
1. Remove the seat (page 29). 8. Loosen the screw (10) on the air cleaner connecting the air cleaner connecting tube to
2. Remove the side covers (1) by removing the connecting tube clamp (11). the carburetor. Then align the subframe with
bolts (2). the rear wheel and tighten the subframe
(8) mounting upper bolts (2) and subframe
(9) (11) mounting lower bolts (3) to the specified
(1)
torque:
upper bolts: 22 lbf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)
lower bolts: 36 lbf·ft (49 N·m, 5.0 kgf·m)

(2)

(7) (10) (1)


(2)
(7) crankcase breather tube
(8) air cleaner case cover
(1) side covers (9) fuel tank band
(2) bolts (10) screw
(11) air cleaner connecting tube clamp
3. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (3). (3)
4. Remove the muffler A bolt (4), muffler B 9. Remove the subframe mounting lower bolts
bolt/washers (5) and muffler (6). (12) and subframe mounting upper bolts (13). (1) subframe
Then remove the subframe (14) by pulling it (2) subframe mounting upper bolts
straight backward. (3) subframe mounting lower bolts
(5) (4) (3)
(13)

(14)

(6)

(3) muffler clamp bolt (12)


(4) muffler A bolt
(5) muffler B bolt/washers (12) subframe mounting lower bolts
(6) muffler (13) subframe mounting upper bolts
(14) subframe

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Subframe Removal
2. Make sure the carburetor lug (4) align with 9. Install the muffler (13). 13. Install the side covers (20) and bolts (21).
the air cleaner connecting tube slot (5). 10. Install the muffler clamp (14) by aligning the 14. Install the seat (page 29).
3. Tighten the screw (6) on the air cleaner tab (15) of the muffler clamp with the cut-out
connecting tube clamp (7). (16) of the muffler. (20)
4. Install and hook the fuel tank band (8).
5. Hook the air cleaner case cover (9). (13) (14)
6. Connect the crankcase breather tube (10).
(5) (9) (8)

(16)
(7)
(21)
(4)

(15) (20) side covers


(21) bolts
(13) muffler (15) tub
(6) (10)
(14) muffler clamp (16) cut-out

(4) lug 11. Tighten the muffler B bolt/washers (17) and


(5) slot muffler A bolt (18) to the specified torque:
(6) screw
(7) air cleaner connecting tube clamp 15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
(8) fuel tank band 12. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (19) to the
(9) air cleaner case cover specified torque:
(10) crankcase breather tube 15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
7. Remove the old gasket from exhaust pipe.
8. Install the muffler clamp (11) and new gasket (17) (18) (19)
(12) to the exhaust pipe.

(12) (11)

(17) muffler B bolt/washers


(18) muffler A bolt
(19) muffler clamp bolt
(11) muffler clamp (12) gasket

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Fuel System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Refueling Procedure Fuel Valve and Hose
Fuel Recommendation Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.90 US gal (7.2R)

Type Unleaded
(3)
Pump Octane Number 91 (or higher)

(2)
We recommend that you use unleaded fuel
because it produces fewer engine deposits and (1)
extends the life of exhaust system components.

Your engine is designed to use any gasoline that (1)


has a pump octane number of 91 or higher.
Gasoline pumps at service stations normally
display the pump octane number. For
information on the use of oxygenated fuels, see (1) fuel fill cap (3) steering stem nut
(2) breather tube (1)
page 145.
1. To open the fuel fill cap (1), pull the breather
Use of lower octane gasoline can cause persistent
tube (2) out of the steering stem nut (3). Turn
“pinging” or “spark knock” (a louder rapping
the fuel fill cap counterclockwise and remove
noise) which, if severe, can lead to engine
it.
damage. (Light pinging experienced while
2. Add fuel until the level reaches the bottom of
operating under a heavy load, such as climbing a
the filler neck. Avoid overfilling the tank.
hill, is no cause for concern.)
There should be no fuel in the filler neck.
3. Close the fuel fill cap and insert the breather
If pinging or spark knock occurs at a steady
tube in the steering stem nut. (1) fuel line
engine speed under normal load, change brands
of gasoline. If pinging or spark knock persists,
consult your Honda dealer. WARNING 1. Check for leaks.
2. Check the fuel line (1) for cracks,
Gasoline is highly flammable and deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace the
Never use stale or contaminated gasoline. Avoid explosive. You can be burned or fuel line, if necessary.
getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank. seriously injured when handling fuel. 3. Check for interference between the frame and
tank and adjust if necessary.
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
and flame away.
• Handle fuel only outdoors.
• Wipe up spills immediately.

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Fuel System
4. Wash the fuel filter (3) in high flash-point
Fuel Filter cleaning solvent.
5. Check that the O-ring (4) is in good condition.
The fuel filter is mounted on the bottom the fuel Install the fuel joint in the fuel tank by
tank. Dirt accumulated in the filter will restrict tightening the bolts securely.
the flow of the fuel to the carburetor. Refill the fuel tank.
Therefore, the fuel filter should be serviced Attach the fuel valve and fuel line, and turn
frequently. the fuel valve to ON; check for fuel leaks.

To service the fuel filter: (4)


1. Remove the fuel tank (page 30).
2. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into an
approved gasoline container. Disconnect the
fuel valve and fuel line. (3)
3. Remove the fuel joint (1) from fuel tank by
removing the bolts (2).

(1)

(3) fuel filter (4) O-ring

(2)

(1) fuel joint (2) bolts

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Engine Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. • Your CRF does not need oil additives.
Oil Recommendation Use the recommended oil.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking, • Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
adding, and changing oil will help extend the API SG or higher except oils oils displaying a circular API “energy
service life of the engine. Even the best oil wears classification labeled as energy conserving conserving” service label on the container. They
out. Changing oil helps get rid of dirt and on the circular API service may affect lubrication.
deposits. Operating the engine with old or dirty label
oil can damage your engine. Running the engine viscosity SAE 10W-30
with insufficient oil can cause serious damage to (weight)
the engine. JASO T 903 standard MA
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil NOT RECOMMENDED OK
or an equivalent motorcycle
oil* Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal your riding area is within the indicated range.
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.

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Engine Oil
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine Checking & Adding Oil Changing Engine Oil & Filter
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB. 1. Run the engine for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the (1) 2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
oil container. For example, the following label level surface.
shows the MA classification. 3. Remove the engine oil filler cap (1) from the
left crankcase cover.
(1) 4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
(2)
catch the oil. Then remove the engine oil
drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
(3) 5. With the engine stop button pushed, repeat
(2)
kickstarter operation approximately 5 times to
drain the engine oil completely.
6. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
(1) engine oil filler cap the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a
(2) upper level (H) mark new sealing washer to the specified torque:
(1) code number of the sales company of the oil (3) lower level (L) mark 12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
(2) oil classification
1. Run the engine for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to (1)
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the engine oil filler cap (1).
5. Check that the oil level is between the upper
(2) and lower (3) level marks in the inspection
window. (3)
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark, (2)
you do not have to add oil.
(1) engine oil filler cap
• If the oil is below or near the lower level (2) engine oil drain bolt
mark, add the recommended oil until the (3) sealing washer
upper level mark. (Do not overfill)
Reinstall the engine oil filler cap. 7. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter
Repeat steps 1–4. every 6 races or about every 15.0 hours.
6. Reinsert the engine oil filler cap. However, if you replace only the oil before
7. Check for oil leaks. the recommended interval, see page 21.

(cont’d)

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Engine Oil
8. Remove the left engine guard bolt (4) and left 12. Apply grease to the filter side of the spring
engine guard (5). end, then install the spring (10) into the new
oil filter.
13. Position the spring against the engine
crankcase and install a new oil filter with the
(4) rubber seal (11) facing out, away from the
engine. You should see the “OUT-SIDE” mark
(12) on the filter body, near the seal.
Use a new genuine Honda oil filter or a filter
of equal quality specified for your model.

NOTICE
(5)
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will
cause serious engine damage.
(4) left engine guard bolt
(5) left engine guard
14. Apply engine oil to the O-ring and install it to
9. Remove the oil filter cover bolts (6) and oil the oil filter cover.
filter cover (7). 15. Install the oil filter cover being careful not to
10. Remove the oil filter (8) from the oil filter cover. damage the O-ring, then tighten the oil filter
11. Check that the oil filter cover O-ring (9) is in cover bolts to the specified torque:
good condition. Replace it if necessary. 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
16. Install the left engine guard and tighten the
left engine guard bolt.
(8) (11) 17. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
Capacity: 0.73 US qt (0.69R)
at oil and filter change
0.70 US qt (0.66R)
(9)
at oil change
18. Install the engine oil filler cap.
(7)
19. Check the engine oil level by following the
steps in Checking & Adding Oil (page 37).
(10)
(12)
(6)

(6) oil filter cover bolts


(7) oil filter cover
(8) oil filter
(9) oil filter cover O-ring
(10) spring
(11) rubber seal
(12) “OUT-SIDE” mark

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Transmission Oil
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. • Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use the
Oil Recommendation recommended oil.
Using the proper oil, and regularly checking, • Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum
adding, and changing oil will help extend the API classification SG or higher except oils additives. They may adversely affect clutch
service life of the transmission and clutch. Even (4-stroke engine oil labeled as energy operation.
the best oil wears out. Changing oil helps get rid only) conserving on the circular • Do not use API SH or higher 4-stroke engine
of dirt and deposits. Operating the engine with API service label oils displaying a circular API “energy
old or dirty oil can damage your engine. viscosity SAE 10W-30 conserving” service label on the container. They
Running the engine with insufficient oil can (weight) may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
cause serious damage to the engine and
JASO T903 MA
transmission. standard

others without friction modifiers as


molybdenum additives
NOT RECOMMENDED OK
suggested oil* Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
or an equivalent motorcycle
oil* Other viscosities shown in the following chart
may be used when the average temperature in
* Suggested 4-stroke engine oils are equal your riding area is within the indicated range.
performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as
energy conserving on the circular API service
label.

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Transmission Oil
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index for engine Checking & Adding Oil Replacing Transmission Oil
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB. 1. Run the engine for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
Oil conforming to the standard is labeled on the 2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
oil container. For example, the following label (2) level surface.
shows the MA classification. 3. Remove the transmission oil filler cap (1)
from the right crankcase cover.
(1) 4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to
catch the oil. Then remove the transmission
oil drain bolt (2) and sealing washer (3).
5. After the oil has drained, apply engine oil to
(2) the drain bolt threads and tighten it with a
(1)
(3) new sealing washer to the specified torque:
12 lbf·ft (16 N·m, 1.6 kgf·m)
(1) transmission oil filler cap (3) sealing washer
(2) oil check bolt 6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
Capacity: 0.62 US qt (0.59R) at oil change.
(1) code number of the sales company of the oil 1. Run the engine for 3 minutes, then shut it off.
(2) oil classification 2. Wait 3 minutes after shutting off the engine to
7. Check the transmission oil level by following
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the
the steps in Checking & Adding Oil (this
clutch and transmission.
page).
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a
level surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil filler cap (1) and
oil check bolt (2) and sealing washer (3) from
the right crankcase cover. A small amount of
oil should flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil
check bolt hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole,
add oil slowly through the transmission oil
filler hole until oil starts to flow out of the oil (2) (3)
check bolt hole. (1)
Tighten the oil check bolt with a new sealing
washer and transmission oil filler cap. Repeat (1) transmission oil filler cap
steps 1–4. (2) transmission oil drain bolt
5. After inspecting the oil level or adding oil, (3) sealing washer
tighten the oil check bolt to the specified
torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)

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Coolant
Your CRF’s liquid cooling system dissipates Increasing the concentration of antifreeze is not
engine heat through the coolant jacket that recommended because it decreases cooling WARNING
surrounds the cylinder and cylinder head. system performance. Higher concentrations of Removing the radiator cap while the
antifreeze (up to 60%) should only be used to engine is hot can cause the coolant to
Maintaining the coolant will allow the cooling provide additional protection against freezing. spray out, seriously scalding you.
system to work properly and prevent freezing, Check the cooling system frequently during
overheating, and corrosion. freezing weather. Always let the engine and radiator cool
down before removing the radiator cap.

Coolant Recommendation Checking & Adding Coolant 2. Add coolant up to the filler neck if the level is
low.
Use Pro Honda HP Coolant or an equivalent high Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. Inspect the coolant level before each outing.
quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing A coolant loss of 0.7 - 2.0 US oz (20 - 60
corrosion protection inhibitors specifically 1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap cm3) through the over flow tube is normal. If
recommended for use in aluminum engines. (1) and check coolant level. The coolant level coolant loss is more than this, inspect the
Check the antifreeze container label. is correct when it is at the bottom of the cooling system.
radiator filler neck (2). Capacity:
Use only distilled water as a part of the coolant 1.18 US qt (1.12R) at disassembly
solution. Water that is high in mineral content or 1.09 US qt (1.03R) at coolant change
salt may be harmful to the aluminum engine. (1)
3. Install the radiator cap securely.

NOTICE NOTICE
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause (2) If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it
premature wear of water seals or blockage of will cause excessive coolant loss and may result
radiator passages. Using tap water may cause in overheating and engine damage.
engine damage.

The factory provides a 50/50 solution of


antifreeze and water in this motorcycle. This
coolant solution is recommended for most (1) radiator cap
operating temperatures and provides good (2) filler neck
corrosion protection.

Decreasing the concentration of antifreeze to less


than 40% will not provide proper corrosion
protection.

Servicing Your Honda 41


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Coolant
Cooling System Inspection Coolant Replacement

1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see the Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Honda Service Manual for troubleshooting of
leaks). (2) Coolant should be replaced by your Honda
2. Check the water hoses (1) for cracks, dealer, unless you have the proper tools and
deterioration, and radiator hose clamp for service data and are mechanically qualified.
looseness. Refer to the Honda Service Manual
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness. (page 152).
4. Make sure the overflow tube (2) is connected
and not clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins for clogging. (1) WARNING
6. Check the water leakage check hole (3) below Removing the radiator cap while the
(1)
the water pump cover (4) for leakage. Make engine is hot can cause the coolant to
sure the hole remains open. If water leaks spray out, seriously scalding you.
through the check hole, the water seal is
damaged. If oil leaks through the check hole, Always let the engine and radiator cool
the transmission oil seal is damaged. See the down before removing the radiator cap.
Honda Service Manual or consult your Honda
dealer for replacing the water seal or the
transmission oil seal. Both seals should be To properly dispose of drained coolant, refer to
replaced at the same time. You & the Environment, page 136.
(3)
NOTICE
Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
the environment.

(4)

(1) water hoses


(2) overflow tube
(3) water leakage check hole
(4) water pump cover

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Air Cleaner
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. Proper air cleaner maintenance can prevent
premature engine wear or damage, expensive Cleaning
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer repairs, low engine power, poor gas mileage, and
pieces which can’t be separated. spark plug fouling. 1. Remove the seat (page 29).
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power. 2. Remove the air cleaner retaining bolt (1).
NOTICE
Proper air cleaner maintenance is very important
for off-road vehicles. A dirty, water-soaked, Improper or lack of proper air cleaner
worn-out, or defective air cleaner will allow dirt, maintenance can cause poor performance and
dust, mud, and other impurities to pass into the premature engine wear.
engine.

Service the air cleaner more frequently if you


ride in unusually wet or dusty areas. Your Honda
dealer can help you determine the correct service
interval for your riding conditions. (1)

Your CRF’s air cleaner has very specific (1) air cleaner retaining bolt
performance requirements. Use a new genuine
Honda air cleaner specified for your model or an 3. Align the two access top tabs (2) of the air
air cleaner of equal quality. cleaner assembly (3) and “∆” mark (4) of the
air cleaner housing by rotating the air cleaner
counterclockwise.
4. Remove the air cleaner assembly keeping the
two access top tabs up.

(4)
(3)

(2)
(3)

(2) two access top tabs


(3) air cleaner assembly
(4) “∆” mark

(cont’d)

Servicing Your Honda 43


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Air Cleaner
5. Remove the air cleaner element (5) out from 9. Apply a thin coat of Pro Honda White 14. Install and tighten the air cleaner retaining
the air cleaner holder (6). Lithium Grease or equivalent to the sealing bolt (1) securely.
surface.
10. Assemble the air cleaner element and holder.
(8) (7) (5) Install the tab (7) of the holder in the hole (8)
of the air cleaner tab (9).
11. Install the air cleaner assembly into the air
cleaner housing keeping the two access top
tabs (2) up.
12. Carefully position the sealing flange of the
element to prevent dirt intrusion.
(9) 13. Align the set tab (10) of the air cleaner
element with the “∆” mark (4) of the air (1)
cleaner housing by rotating the air cleaner
(6) assembly (3) clockwise.
(1) air cleaner retaining bolt
(2) (4)
(5) air cleaner element (8) hole (3) NOTICE
(6) air cleaner holder (9) air cleaner tab
(7) holder tab Improper installation of the air cleaner assembly
may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine and
6. Wash the air cleaner in clean non-flammable cause rapid wear of the piston rings and cylinder.
cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot, soapy
water, rinse well, and allow to dry thoroughly. 15. Install the seat (Page 29)
The air cleaner element is made in two pieces:
inner and outer, which cannot be separated.
7. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
8. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After (10)
drying, soak the air cleaner element in clean (2) two access top tabs
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil or an equivalent (3) air cleaner assembly
air cleaner oil. (4) “∆” mark
Apply air cleaner oil to the entire surface, (10) set tab
inner and outer, and rub it with both hands to
saturate the air cleaner with oil. Squeeze out
excess oil.

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Crankcase Breather
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.

Service more frequently if your CRF is ridden in


the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the
transparent section of the drain tube.

Draining

1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug (1)


from the tube (2) and drain deposits.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.

(1)

(2)

(1) crankcase breather tube plug


(2) tube

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Throttle
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 1. Pull the dust cover (2) back. Lower Adjustment
2. Loosen the lock nut (3). The lower adjuster is used for major freeplay
3. Turn the adjuster (4). adjustment, such as after replacing the throttle
Throttle Freeplay Turning the adjuster in direction (–) will cables or removing the carburetor. It is also used
decrease freeplay and turning it in direction if you can not get the proper adjustment with the
(1) (+) will increase freeplay. upper adjuster.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specifiel torque:
Return the dust cover to its normal position.
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. After adjustment, check for smooth rotation of
the throttle grip from fully closed to fully (–)
open in all steering positions.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or
the correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn
(1) freeplay the adjuster all the way in and back out one
(+)
turn. Tighten the lock nut, install the dust
Inspection cover and make the adjustment with the (5) (6)
Check freeplay (1). lower adjuster.
Freeplay: 1/8 - 3/16 in (3 - 5 mm)
If necessary, adjust to the specified range. (5) lock nut (+) increase
(6) adjuster (–) decrease
Upper Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the 1. Remove the fuel tank (page 30).
upper adjuster. 2. Loosen the lock nut (5).
3. Turn the adjuster (6) in direction (–) to
decrease freeplay, and in direction (+) to
(2) increase freeplay.
4. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
(+) (3) 3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it
functions smoothly and returns completely.
6. Install the fuel tank (page 31).

(–) If you can’t get the freeplay within the specified


range, contact your Honda dealer.
(4)

(2) dust cover (+) increase


(3) lock nut (–) decrease
(4) adjuster

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Throttle
Throttle Inspection

(1)

(1) throttle

1. Check that the throttle assembly is positioned


properly and the securing bolts are tight.
2. Check for smooth rotation of the throttle (1)
from fully open to fully closed in all steering
positions. If there is a problem, see your
Honda dealer.
3. Inspect the condition of the throttle cables
from the throttle grip down to the carburetor.
If the cable is kinked or chafed, have it
replaced.
4. Check the cables for tension or stress in all
steering positions.
5. Lubricate the cables with a
commercially-available cable lubricant to
prevent premature rust and corrosion.

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Engine Idle Speed


Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.

Remember, idle speed adjustment in not a


“cure-all” for other problems in your engine’s
fuel-delivery system. Adjusting the idle will not
compensate for a fault elsewhere.

The engine must be at normal operating


temperature for accurate idle speed adjustment.

Idle Speed Adjustment

1. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3


minutes. Then shut it off.
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Shift the transmission into neutral. Start the
engine.
4. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
5. Adjust idle speed with the throttle stop screw
(1).
Idle speed: 1,700 ± 100 rpm

(1)

(1) throttle stop screw

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Clutch System
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 4. Turn the cable end adjuster (3) in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out 5 Clutch Lever Freeplay
turns.
Clutch Lever Adjustment (1)
Cable end adjuster:
The distance between the tip of the clutch lever
and the grip may be adjusted.
(–)
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
the clutch lever position adjustment or clutch
cable disconnected.

(+)
(1) clutch lever
(1) (3)
Inspection
Check freeplay.
(3) cable end adjuster Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay If necessary, adjust to the specified range.
(2) Improper freeplay adjustment can cause
5. Loosen the lock nut (4) and turn the integral premature clutch wear.
(1) lock nut (2) adjuster cable adjuster (5) to adjust the clutch lever
freeplay 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm) at the Make sure to adjust the clutch lever freeplay after
1. Loosen the lock nut (1). tip of lever. Tighten the lock nut. the clutch cable is disconnected.
2. To position the clutch lever farther away from
the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2)
counterclockwise. To position the brake lever (5)
closer to the handgrip, turn the adjuster
(–)
clockwise.
3. Tighten the lock nut.

(+)
(4)

(4) lock nut


(5) integral cable adjuster
(+) increase freeplay
(–) decrease freeplay

6. Adjust the cable end adjuster for minor


adjustement.

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Clutch System
Cable End Adjustment Integral Cable Adjustment
Minor adjustments are generally made with the The integral cable adjuster is used if the cable Other Inspections & Lubrication
clutch cable end adjuster. end adjuster is threaded out near its limit — or
the correct freeplay cannot be obtained. • Check that the clutch lever assembly is
Cable end adjuster: positioned properly (by inspecting the end of
(4)
the holder (1) aligns with the paint mark (2)
(–) on the handlebar) and the securing bolts are
(–) tight.
(3)
(+)
(1)
(2)
(+)

(3) lock nut (+) increase


(2) cable end adjuster (4) integral cable adjuster (–) decrease
(+) increase freeplay
(2)
(–) decrease freeplay 1. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction (+)
until it seats lightly and then turn it out 5
Turning the cable end adjuster (2) in direction (+) turns.
will increase freeplay and turning it in direction (1) holder (2) paint mark
2. Loosen the lock nut (3).
(–) will decrease freeplay. 3. Turn the integral cable adjuster (4) to obtain • Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of
the specified freeplay. wear. If necessary, have it replaced.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the 4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the adjustment.
correct freeplay cannot be reached, turn the • Lubricate the clutch cable with a
5. Start the engine, pull the clutch lever in, and commercially-available cable lubricant to
adjuster all the way in and back out one turn and shift into gear. Make sure the engine does not
make the adjustment with the integral cable prevent premature wear and corrosion.
stall and the motorcycle does not creep.
adjuster. Gradually release the clutch lever and open
the throttle. Your CRF should move smoothly Clutch Operation
and accelerate gradually.
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation. If
If you can’t get proper adjustment, or the clutch necessary, lubricate the clutch lever pivot or
does not work properly, the cable may be kinked clutch cable.
or worn, or the clutch discs may be worn. See 2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration,
your Honda dealer or refer to the Honda Service kinks, or damage.
Manual (page 152).

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Clutch System
5. Remove the clutch pressure plate (6).
Clutch Cover/Disc/Plate Removal Clutch Disc/Plate Inspection
(5)
1. Drain the transmission oil (page 40). Replace the clutch discs (1) if they show signs of
2. Remove the rear brake pedal (1) by removing scoring or discoloration.
its pivot bolt (2). Measure the thickness of each clutch disc.
Service Limit: 0.112 in (2.85 mm)
(2)
Replace the clutch discs and clutch plates as an
(1)
assembly.

(6)

(1)
(5) clutch spring bolts/springs
(6) clutch pressure plate

6. Remove the washer (7), needle bearing (8),


clutch lifter (9) and clutch lifter rod (10).
(1) rear brake pedal (2) pivot bolt 7. Remove the eight clutch discs and seven
clutch plates (11).
3. Remove the six clutch cover bolts (3) and Assemble the clutch lifter, needle bearing and (1) clutch disc
clutch cover (4). washer. Turn the needle bearing with your
finger. The needle bearing should turn Check the clutch plate (2) for excessive warpage
smoothly and quietly. Replace the needle or discoloration.
(3) Check the plate warpage on a surface plate using
bearing and washer if the needle bearing does
not turn smoothly. a feeler gauge.
Measure the thickness of the clutch plates.
Service Limit: 0.006 in (0.15 mm)

Replace the clutch discs and plates as a set.


(11)

(4) (9) (2)

(3) clutch cover bolts (4) clutch cover (8)


(7) (10)
4. Remove the six clutch spring bolts and
springs (5).
Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 or 3 (7) washer (10) clutch lifter rod
(8) needle bearing (11) clutch discs and plates
progressive steps. (9) clutch lifter (2) clutch plate

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Clutch System
3. Apply grease to the clutch lifter rod (3). 10. Install a new O-ring (9) in the groove of the
Clutch Spring Inspection 4. Insert the clutch lifter rod into the mainshaft. clutch cover (10).
5. Apply engine oil to the needle bearing (4) and 11. Install the clutch cover by tightening the six
washer (5) and install them onto the clutch cover bolts to the specified torque:
lifter (6). 7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)
6. Install the clutch lifter onto the rod.
(1) (9)

(3)
(1) clutch spring

Measure the free length of each spring.


Service Limit: 1.72 in (43.7 mm) (10)

Replace the clutch springs as a set if any one of (9) O-ring (10) clutch cover
(5) (4) (6)
them is below the service limit or if the clutch
plates have been burnt/heat discolored. 12. Apply grease to the rear brake pedal pivot bolt
(3) clutch lifter rod (5) washer (11) sliding surface.
(4) needle bearing (6) clutch lifter
13. Install the dust seals (12) into the rear brake
Clutch Disc/Plate Installation 7. Install the clutch pressure plate (7). pedal (13).
8. Install the six clutch springs and bolts (8). 14. Apply locking agent to the brake pedal pivot
1. Coat the clutch plates (1) with engine oil. 9. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 bolt threads and tighten it to the specified
2. Install the eight clutch discs (2) and seven or 3 steps, to the specified torque: torque:
clutch plates (1) alternately, starting with a disc. 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m) 27 lbf·ft (36 N·m, 3.7 kgf·m)
Connect the brake pedal return spring (14) if
it was removed.
(2) (7)
(13)
(11)

(8) (14) (12)


(1)
(11) pivot bolt (13) rear brake pedal
(7) clutch pressure plate (12) dust seals (14) return spring
(1) seven clutch plates (8) clutch springs and bolts
(2) eight clutch discs
15. Add the transmission oil (page 40).

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Hot Start Lever


Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. Adjustment
Adjustments can be made with the cable end
adjuster.
Hot Start Lever Freeplay
Loosen the lock nut (3) and turn the adjuster (4).
left handlebar Turning the adjuster clockwise (+) will increase
(1)
freeplay and turning it counterclockwise (–) will
decrease freeplay. After adjustment, tighten the
(2) lock nut.

(3)
(4)
(–)

(1) hot start lever


(2) hot start lever freeplay (+)

Inspection
Check freeplay: (3) lock nut (+) increase
1/16 – 1/8 in (2 – 3 mm) (4) adjuster (–) decrease
If necessary, adjust to the specified range.

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Spark Plug
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 7. To obtain accurate spark plug readings,
Spark Plug Replacement & Inspection accelerate up to speed on a straightaway. Push
the engine stop button and disengage the
Spark Plug Recommendation 1. Remove the seat and fuel tank (pages 29,30). clutch by pulling the lever in.
2. Disconnect the spark plug cap (1). Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the spark
The recommended standard spark plug is 3. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug base. plug. The porcelain insulator around the center
satisfactory for most racing conditions. 4. Remove the spark plug (2). electrode should appear tan or medium gray.

Standard IFR8H11 (NGK) or


If you're using a new plug, ride for at least 10
(1) minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new
VK24PRZ11 (DENSO)
plug will not color initially.
Optional IFR9H11 (NGK) or (2)
VK27PRZ11 (DENSO)
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is
white or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and
Use only the recommended type of spark plugs in insulator are black or fouled (rich), there is a
the recommended heat range. problem elsewhere (page 128).
Check the carburetor, fuel system and ignition
NOTICE timing.

Using a spark plug with an improper heat range (1) spark plug cap
8. Tighten the spark plug.
or incorrect reach can cause engine damage. (2) spark plug • If the old plug is good:
Using a non-resistor spark plug may cause 1/8 turn after it seats.
ignition problems. 5. Check the electrodes for wear or deposits, the • If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to
sealing gasket (3) for damage, and the prevent loosening:
This motorcycle uses spark plug that have an insulator for cracks. Replace if you detect a) First, tighten the plug:
iridium tip in the center electrode and a platinum them. NGK: 3/4 turn after it seats.
tip in the side electrode. 6. Check the spark plug gap (4), using a wire- DENSO: 1/2 turn after it seats.
Be sure to observe the following when servicing type feeler gauge. If the gap is out of b) Then loosen the plug.
the spark plug. specifications, replace the plug with a new c) Next, tighten the plug again:
• Do not clean the spark plug. If an electrode is one. 1/8 turn after it seats.
contaminated with accumulated objects or The recommended spark plug gap is:
dirt, replace the spark plug with a new one. 0.039 – 0.043 in (1.0 – 1.1 mm) NOTICE
• To check the spark plug gap, use only a
“wire-type feeler gauge” To prevent damaging (4) An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
the iridium tip of the center electrode and the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may be
platinum tip of the side electrode, never use a damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads may
(3)
“leaf-type feeler gauge’’. be damaged.
• Do not adjust the spark plug gap. If the gap is
out of specification, replace the spark plug 9. Connect the spark plug cap. Take care to
with a new one. avoid pinching any cables or wires.
(3) sealing gasket 10. Install the fuel tank and seat (pages 29, 31).
(4) spark plug gap

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Valve Clearance
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Cylinder Head Cover Removal Positioning At Top Dead Center On The
Excessive valve clearance will cause noise and Compression Stroke
eventual engine damage. Little or no clearance Before inspection, clean the engine thoroughly to
will prevent the valve from closing and cause keep dirt from entering the engine. 1. Remove the crankshaft hole cap (1).
valve damage and power loss. Check valve
clearance when the engine is cold at the intervals 1. Remove the seat (page 29).
specified in the Maintenance Schedule (page 21). 2. Remove the fuel tank (page 30).
3. Disconnect the breather tube (1) and spark
The checking or adjusting of the valve clearance plug cap (2).
should be performed while the engine is cold.
The valve clearance will change as engine
(2)
temperature rises.
(1) (1)

(1) crankshaft hole cap

2. Remove the spark plug (2).

(1) breather tube (2) spark plug cap (2)

4. Remove the cylinder head cover A bolt/rubber


seal (3), cylinder head cover B bolts/rubber
seals (4) and cylinder head cover (5).

(4)
(5)

(2) spark plug

(3)

(3) cylinder head cover A bolt/rubber seal


(4) cylinder head cover B bolts/rubber seals
(5) cylinder head cover (cont’d)

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Valve Clearance
3. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the primary 2. Measure the exhaust valve clearance by
drive gear bolt (3) clockwise until aligning the Valve Clearance Inspection inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the
punch mark (4) on the primary drive gear with exhaust rocker arm (4) and shims (5).
the “∆” mark (5) on the right crankcase cover. 1. Measure the intake valve clearance by
In this position, the piston may either be on the inserting a feeler gauge (1) between the valve
compression or exhaust stroke. (5)
If the crankshaft passed the punch mark, lifters (2) and cam lobe (3).
(1)
rotate the primary drive gear bolt clockwise
again and align the punch mark with the “∆” (1)
mark.
The inspection must be made when the piston
is at the top of the compression stroke when
both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
This condition can be determined by moving
the exhaust rocker arm (6). If it is free, it is an (2)
indication that the valves are closed and that (4)
the piston is on the compression stroke. If it is
tight and the valves are open, rotate the (3)
primary drive gear bolt 360° and realign the (1) feeler gauge
punch mark to the “∆” mark. (4) exhaust rocker arm
(5) exhaust valve shims
(5) (1) feeler gauge
(2) valve lifters Valve Clearances:
(3) (3) cam lobe
IN: 0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)

If intake valve clearance and exhaust valve


clearance need adjustment, see Camshaft Holder
Assembly Removal (page 57) and select the
correct shim for each valve.
(4)
(3) primary drive gear bolt (5) “∆” mark
(4) punch mark
(6)

(6) exhaust rocker arm

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Valve Clearance
Use the tensioner stopper tool. 4. Loosen the cam sprocket bolt (4).
Camshaft Holder Assembly Removal • Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100 Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (crankshaft)
clockwise one turn and remove the other
1. Record the intake valve and exhaust valve 3. Turn the tensioner shaft clockwise with the sprocket bolt. Rotate the primary drive gear
clearances. stopper tool (3) until it stops, in order to bolt (crankshaft) clockwise one turn again and
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead retract the tensioner fully. remove the other sprocket bolt.
Center) on the compression stroke (page 55). Then insert the stopper tool fully to hold the 5. Remove the cam sprocket (5) and then attach
2. Remove the cam chain tensioner lifter cover stopper in the fully retracted position. a piece of wire to the cam chain (6) to prevent
bolt (1) and sealing washer (2). it from falling into the crankcase.

NOTICE

(3) Do not let the bolts, sprocket and cam chain fall
(1) into the crankcase.

(6)

(3)
(2)

(1) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (3) stopper tool
(2) sealing washer

(5) (4)

(4) cam sprocket bolts


(5) cam sprocket
(6) cam chain

(cont’d)

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Valve Clearance
6. Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead 7. Remove the valve lifters (9), decompressor 8. Remove the valve shims (12).
Center) on the compression stroke. shaft (10) and plunger (11).
Loosen the camshaft holder assembly bolts (7)
in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps.
(9)
Remove the camshaft holder assembly bolts,
camshaft holder assembly (8), intake valve
lifters (9) and shims.

• As you remove the camshaft holder


assembly, the intake valve lifters and intake
valve shims may be sticking in the camshaft
holder assembly. (12)
• Keep the intake valve lifters and the shims
so as to allow identification of the originally (12) valve shims
installed location such as intake or exhaust,
right or left.
(11)

(7)

(10)

(8) (9) intake valve lifters


(10) decompressor shaft
(11) plunger
(7) camshaft holder assembly bolts
(8) camshaft holder assembly

NOTICE
Do not let the valve lifters, shims, decompressor
shaft (10) and plunger (11) fall into the
crankcase.

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Valve Clearance
2. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer 3. Calculate the new shim thickness using the
Shim Selection and record it. equation below.
Seventy-three different thickness shims (2) are
1. Clean the valve shim contact area in the valve available from the thinnest (1.200 mm A = (B – C) + D
lifter (1) with compressed air. thickness) shim to the thickest (3.000 mm
thickness) in intervals of 0.025 mm. A: New shim thickness
B: Recorded valve clearance
(1) C: Specified valve clearance
(2) D: Old shim thickness

• Make sure of the correct shim thickness by


measuring the shim with a micrometer.
• Reface the intake valve seat if carbon deposits
result in a calculated dimension of over 2.450
mm.
Reface the exhaust valve seat if carbon
deposits result in a calculated dimension of
over 3.000 mm.
(1) valve lifter
(2) shim

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Valve Clearance
3. Install the plunger (3) into the camshaft (4) 5. Install the camshaft holder assembly (9) onto
Camshaft Holder Assembly with its rounded surface facing up and groove the cylinder head with the intake cam lobes
(5) side toward the decompressor shaft (6). (10) facing up as illustrated below.
1. Install the newly selected shims (1) on the Install the decompressor shaft while aligning Apply engine oil to the camshaft holder
valve spring retainers (2). its tab (7) with the groove of the plunger assembly bolt threads and seating surface.
shown. Tighen the camshaft holder assembly bolts
NOTICE Check the operation of the plunger by turning (11) to the specified torque:
the decompressor shaft with your finger, then 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m, 1.4 kgf·m)
Do not let the shims fall into the crankcase. pushing down and pull up the plunger smoothly.
NOTICE
(5) (3) Align
Do not let the decompressor shaft and pluger fall
(4)
into the crankcase.
(2) (7)
Tighten the camshaft holder assembly bolts in a
(2) criss-cross pattern in two or three steps.
(6)
(9)

(1) (6)

(3) plunger (6) decompressor shaft


(1) shims
(4) camshaft (7) tab
(2) valve spring retainers
(5) groove
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of 4. Install the each valve lifter (8) in their original
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide (11)
location into the camshaft holder assembly (9).
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum
disulfide additive) to the following parts. Exhaust side
– camshaft cam lobes (8) (10)
– each valve lifter outer surface (9)
– plunger whole surface
– decompressor shaft sliding area

(8) valve lifters (9) camshaft holder assembly


(9) camshaft holder assembly (10) intake cam lobes
(11) camshaft holder assembly bolts

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Valve Clearance
6. While holding the cam chain, rotate the 8. Set the decompressor weight (20) by aligning 10. Temporarily install the cam sprocket bolt (25)
primary drive gear bolt (12) (crankshaft) its hole (21) with out side weight pin (22) as by aligning the bolt holes of the cam sprocket
clockwise and align the punch mark (13) with shown. and camshaft.
the “∆” mark (14). Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (crankshaft)
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead (15) clockwise one turn and tighten the sprocket
(19) (22)
Center) on the compression stroke. bolt to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(14) Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (crankshaft)
(21) clockwise one turn again and tighten the other
(12)
sprocket bolt to the specified torque (see
(20) above).

(17) (16) NOTICE


(18)
Do not let the bolts fall into the crankcase.
(15) cam chain (19) decompressor weight pin
(16) cam sprocket (20) decompressor weight
(13)
(17) timing mark (21) hole
(18) “∆” mark (22) out side weight pin (16)
(12) primary drive gear bolt
(13) punch mark 9. Clean and apply a locking agent to the cam
(14) “∆” mark sprocket bolt (25) threads (coating width as
shown).
7. Install the cam chain (15) over the sprocket
without rotating the sprocket.
Place the cam sprocket (16) and align the
timing mark (17) on the cam sprocket with the
“∆” mark (18) on the camshaft holder (23) 0.26 ± 0.04 in (24) 0.04 – 0.08 in
(6.5 ± 1.0 mm) (1.0 – 2.0 mm) (25)
assembly.
When installing the cam sprocket with (16) cam sprocket
decompressor weight pin (19) toward the front (25) cam sprocket bolts
side.

(25)

(23) coating width


(24) no coating width
(25) cam sprocket bolt

(cont’d)

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Valve Clearance
11.Check the operation of the plunger (3) by 13.Rotate the primary drive gear bolt (crankshaft) 14.Measure the intake valve and exhaust valve
pushing the decompressor weight (20) with clockwise two turns and align the punch mark clearances.
your finger and then pushing the plunger (13) with the index mark (14). Make sure that Valve Clearance:
down. Release the decompressor weight and the timing mark (17) on the sprocket align IN:0.006 ± 0.001 in (0.16 ± 0.03 mm)
pull up the plunger. with the “∆” mark (18) on the camshaft holder EX: 0.011 ± 0.001 in (0.28 ± 0.03 mm)
assembly.
If the timing mark doesn’t align with the “∆”
mark, remove the cam sprocket. (27)
(27)
Then realign the valve timing.

(13) (14) (17)

(20) (3)

(3) plunger
(27) feeler gauge
(20) decompressor weight

12.Remove the stopper tool (26) from the cam (18) 15.Install a new sealing washer (28) and tighten
chain tensioner lifter. the cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt (29).
(13) punch mark
(14) index mark
(17) timing mark
(18) “∆” mark
(29)

(26) (28)

(28) sealing washer


(26) stopper tool (29) cam chain tensioner lifter cover bolt

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Valve Clearance
Spark Plug Installation Crankshaft Hole Cap Installation Cylinder Head Cover Installation

Tighten the spark plug (1): Coat a new O-ring (1) with engine oil and install 1. Remove the spark plug hole packing (1) from
• If the old plug is good: it onto the crankshaft hole cap (2). the cylinder head cover.
1/8 turn after it seats. Apply grease to the crankshaft hole cap threads. Apply engine oil to the spark plug hole
• If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to Install and tighten the crankshaft hole cap to the packing and install it to the spark plug hole
prevent loosening: specified torque: (2).
a) First, tighten the plug: 11 lbf·ft (15 N·m, 1.5 kgf·m)
NGK: 3/4 turn after it seats.
DENSO: 1/2 turn after it seats.
(1) (2)
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again: (1)
1/8 turn after it seats.

(1)

(2)
(1) spark plug hole packing
(1) O-ring (2) spark plug hole
(2) crankshaft hole cap
2. Install the cylinder head cover packing (3)
into the groove of the cylinder head cover (4).
(1) spark plug
(3)

(4)

(3) cylinder head cover packing


(4) cylinder head cover

(cont’d)

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Valve Clearance
3. Check the rubber seals (5) are in good 6. Connect the spark plug cap (10) and breather
condition, replace them if necessary. tube (11).
Install the rubber seals onto the cylinder head
cover with the “UP” marks (7) facing up.

(10)
(5) (7)
(11)

(7) (10) spark plug cap


(11) breather tube
(5) rubber seal
(7) “UP” marks 7. Install the fuel tank and seat (page 29, 31).

4. Install the cylinder head cover (6).


5. Tighten the cylinder head cover A bolt (8) and
cylinder head cover B bolts (9) to the
specified torque:
7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)

(9)
(6)

(8)

(6) cylinder head cover


(8) cylinder head cover A bolt
(9) cylinder head cover B bolts

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


8. Disconnect the primary wire connector (2). 11. Position the piston at top dead center on the
Cylinder Head Removal Remove the bolts (3), nut (4) and ignition coil compression stroke (page 55).
(5). Remove the camshaft holder assembly (page
1. Clean the area above the engine before 57).
disassembly to prevent dirt falling into the 12. Loosen the radiator hose clamp screw (7) and
engine. (2)
(4) disconnect the radiator hose (8).
2. Drain the radiator coolant after cooling the
motorcycle (page 42). (8)
3. Remove the seat and fuel tank (page 29, 30).
4. Remove the muffler (page 87) and subframe (5)
(page 32).
5. Remove the carburetor (page 119). (3)
6. Remove the exhaust pipe (page 89).
7. Disconnect the spark plug cap (1) and remove
any dirt from around the spark plug base.
(2) primary wire connector (4) nut
(3) bolts (5) ignition coil (7)

9. Remove the cylinder head cover (page 55).


(7) radiator hose clamp screw
10. Remove the spark plug (6). (8) radiator hose

(6)

(1)

(1) spark plug cap

(6) spark plug

(cont’d)

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


13.Remove the engine hanger nut (9), engine 14.Remove the cylinder head bolts (15). 17.Remove the dowel pins (19), cylinder head
hanger A bolt (10) and fuel hose guide (11). 15.Loosen the cylinder bolt (16). gasket (20) and cam chain guide (21).
Remove the engine hanger B bolts (12), left
engine hanger plate (13) and right engine NOTICE
hanger plate (14). (15)
Do not let the dowel pins and cam chain fall into
the crankcase.
(12)
(16) (20)
(21)
(14)

(9)

(15) cylinder head bolts


(16) cylinder bolt

16.Remove the cylinder head nuts/washers (17)


(19)
and the cylinder head (18).
(12)
(19) dowel pins (21) cam chain guide
Loosen the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in two or (20) cylinder head gasket
three steps.

(11) NOTICE

Do not let the nuts, washers and cam chain fall


(13)
into the crankcase.
(10)

(9) engine hanger nut


(10) engine hanger A bolt
(11) fuel hose guide (17)
(12) engine hanger B bolts
(13) left engine hanger plate
(14) right engine hanger plate
(17)

(18)

(17) cylinder head nuts/washers


(18) cylinder head

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


4. Spread each piston ring (4) and remove by
Cylinder Removal Piston Removal lifting it up at a point just opposite the gap.

1. Remove the cylinder bolt (1) and cylinder (2). 1. Place clean shop towels in the crankcase to NOTICE
keep the piston pin clips, or other parts, from
falling into the crankcase. Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
NOTICE
2. Remove the piston pin clips (1) using a pair of ends too far.
needle-nose pliers.
Do not let the cam chain fall into the crankcase. 3. Press the piston pin (2) out of the piston (3),
Do not pry on or strike the cylinder. and remove the piston.
(2)
Under racing conditions, the piston and rings
should be replaced after 15.0 hours of running.
Replace the piston pin after 30.0 hours of running.

(3)

(2)
(4)
(1)
(4) piston ring
(1) cylinder bolt (2) cylinder

2. Remove the A dowel pins (3), B dowel pin (4)


and cylinder gasket (5).
(1)
NOTICE
(1) piston pin clips (3) piston
(2) piston pin
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
(3)

(5)
(4)

(3) A dowel pins (5) cylinder gasket


(4) B dowel pin

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


• To install the oil ring, install the spacer first,
Piston/Piston Pin/ Piston Ring Installation then install the side rails.
Piston Ring Inspection • Install the top ring on the piston with the
1. Remove the carbon deposits from the piston marking side facing up.
We recommend you consult the Service Manual head and piston ring grooves with the
or your authorized Honda dealer for correct removed ring (1). 3. After installing the rings they should rotate
Service Limit measurements. freely, without sticking.
Space the ring end gaps 180 degrees apart
between top ring and upper side rail.
Space the ring end gaps 90 degrees apart
between upper side rail, spacer and lower side
rail.

top ring

oil ring
(1)

(1) removed ring

2. Apply engine oil to each piston ring whole


surfce and install them to the piston.
mark

NOTICE top ring


side rail
Do not damage the piston ring by spreading the
ends too far. spacer oil
Do not damage the piston during piston ring ring
installation. side rail

piston

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


(1) (2)
Piston Installation Cylinder Installation

1. Place clean shop towels over the crankcase 1. Clean off any gasket material from the gasket
opening to keep the piston pin clips from surface of the crankcase, being careful not to
falling into the crankcase. let any material fall into the crankcase.
2. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil (a mixture of Be careful not to remove any metal from the
1/2 engine oil and 1/2 molybdenum disulfide gasket surface.
grease containing more than 3% molybdenum 2. Remove the shop towel. Do not let any gasket
disulfide additive) to the connecting rod small debris fall into the crankcase.
end inner surface. 3. Install a new cylinder gasket (1), A dowel pins
3. Install the piston (1) with the “IN” mark (2) (3) (2) and B a new dowel pin (3).
and/or the large valve recesses (3) facing the
intake side of the engine. (1) (2)
NOTICE
4. Apply engine oil to the piston pin (4) outer
surface. Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
Apply engine oil to the piston outer surface
and piston pin hole inner surface.
Install the piston pin and new piston pin clips
(2)
(5).

NOTICE (5) (4)

Use new pin clips. Never reuse old clips.


Do not let the clips fall into the crankcase. (1)
Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the
piston cut-out (6). (3)

(5) (1) cylinder gasket (3) B dowel pin


(2) A dowel pins

4. Clean any gasket material off the cylinder.


(6)

(1) piston (4) piston pin


(2) “IN” mark (5) piston pin clips
(3) large valve recesses (6) cut-out

(cont’d)

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


5. Apply engine oil to the cylinder wall, piston 6. Install the cam chain guide (7) and fit the cam
outer surface and piston rings. chain guide tabs (8) in the cylinder cut-outs Cylinder Head Installation
Route the cam chain (4) through the cylinder (9).
(5). Push the guide until it bottoms in the 1. Install the dowel pins (1) and a new cylinder
Install the cylinder over the piston rings by crankcase guide hole. head gasket (2).
hand while compressing the piston rings (6).
NOTICE
NOTICE (7)
Do not let the dowel pins fall into the crankcase.
Do not damage the piston rings and cylinder
walls. (8) (2)

(4)

(5)
(9)
(7) cam chain guide
(8) cam chain guide tabs
(9) cylinder cut-outs
(1)
(6) (1) dowel pins
(2) cylinder head gasket
(4) cam chain (6) piston rings
(5) cylinder

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


2. Route the cam chain through the cylinder 4. Install the cylinder bolt (5), cylinder head bolts
head (3). (6) and tighten them to the specified torque: (9)
Install the cylinder head. 7 lbf·ft (10 N·m, 1.0 kgf·m)

NOTICE (6)
Do not damage mating surfaces when installing (11)
the cylinder head.
(7)
3. Apply engine oil to all cylinder head nut (4)
threads and seating surface. (10)
Install the washers and cylinder head nuts and (5)
tighten them to the specified torque:
44 lbf·ft (59 N·m, 6.0 kgf·m)
(9)
NOTICE (5) cylinder bolt
(6) cylinder head bolts (8)
Do not let the washers and nuts fall into the
crankcase. 5. Install the left engine hanger plate (7), right (12)
engine hanger plate (8) and engine hanger B
Tighten the cylinder head nuts in a criss-cross bolts (9), them tighten the engine hanger B
pattern in two or three steps. bolts until lightly contact the frame.
Install the engine hanger A bolt (10), fuel hose
guide (11) and engine hanger nut (12), them
tighten the engine hanger nut until it lightly (7) left engine hanger plate
(4) contacts the engine hanger plates. (8) right engine hanger plate
Tighten the engine hanger B bolts to the (9) engine hanger B bolts
specified torque: (10) engine hanger A bolt
(4) (11) fuel hose guide
19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
(12) engine hanger nut
Tighten the engine hanger nut to the specified
torque:
40 lbf·ft (54 N·m, 5.5 kgf·m)
(3)

(3) cylinder head


(4) cylinder head nuts/washers

(cont’d)

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Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin


6. Connect the radiator hose (13) to the cylinder 10.Install the crankshaft hole cap (page 63). 14.Install the exhaust pipe (page 89).
head. 11.Install the cylinder head cover (page 63). 15.Install the carburetor (page 123).
12.Install the ignition coil (15), ground terminal 16.Install the subframe (page 32) and muffler
(13) (16), bolts (17) and nut (18). (page 88).
Connect the primary wire connector (19). 17.Install the fuel tank and the seat (pages 29,
31).
18.Fill and bleed the cooling system (page 41).
(16)
(18)
(19)

(17) (15)

(13) radiator hose

7. Tighten the radiator hose clamp screw (14) as


illustrated below. (15) ignition coil
(16) ground terminal
(17) bolts
(14) (18) nut
(19) primary wire connector

13.Install the spark plug cap (20).

(20)

0 – 0.04 in
(0 – 1.0 mm)

(14) radiator hose clamp screw

8. Install the camshaft holder assembly (page


60).
9. Install the spark plug (page 63).
(20) spark plug cap

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Suspension
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. • Refer to Suspension Adjustment Guidelines (4)
(page 114). Make all rebound and
Loose, worn, or damaged suspension components compression damping adjustments in one-
may adversely affect the handling and stability of click increments. (Adjusting two or more
your CRF. If any suspension components appear clicks at a time may cause you to pass over
worn or damaged, see your Honda dealer for the best adjustment.) Test ride after each
further inspection. Your dealer is qualified to adjustment.
determine whether or not replacement parts or • If you become confused about adjustment
repairs are needed. settings, return to the standard position and
start over. (3) (3)
• If the fork is still too stiff/soft after adjusting
Front Suspension Inspection compression damping, determine which (3) wear ring (4) outer tube
portion of the travel is still too stiff/soft. This
• When your CRF is new, break it in for is an important step that will help you solve
approximately one hour to ensure that the suspension problems. (3)
suspension has worked in (page 15).
• After break-in, test run your CRF with the 1. Make sure that the fork protectors (1) and dust
front suspension at the standard setting before seals (2) are clean and not packed with mud
attempting any adjustments. and dirt.
• For optimum fork performance, we 2. Check for signs of oil leakage. Damaged or
recommend that you disassemble and clean leaking fork seals should be replaced before
the fork after riding your CRF for three hours. your CRF is ridden.
See page 97 for fork disassembly. (5)
• Replace the fork oil every 3 races or 7.5 hours
of running. See page 76 for oil level (1)
adjustment after changing the fork oil. (3) wear rings (5) end gaps
• Replace the damper oil every 9 races or 22.5
hours of running. See page 100 for damper 4. Make a quick check of fork operation by
fork oil replacement. locking the front brake and pushing down on
• Use Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or an the handlebar several times.
equivalent which contains special additives to
assure maximum performance of your CRF's
front suspension. (2)
• Periodically check and clean all front
suspension parts to assure top performance. (1) fork protector (2) dust seal
Check the dust seals for dust, dirt, and foreign
materials. Check the oil for any 3. Inspect the wear rings (3) for wear or damage.
contamination. Replace the wear ring if it is 0.06 in (1.5 mm)
or flat with the outer tube (4).
Install the wear ring with its end gap (5) facing
rearward.

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Suspension
1. Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down
Rear Suspension Inspection and check for smooth suspension action.

The swingarm is controlled by one hydraulic


shock absorber with an aluminum reservoir for
oil and nitrogen gas pressure. The gas pressure
in the reservoir is contained within a rubber
bladder.

The shock absorber’s spring pre-load and


damping adjustments (compression and rebound)
should be adjusted for the rider’s weight and
track conditions (pages 109-113).

Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or


dispose of the damper; see your Honda dealer.
The instructions found in this owner’s manual are 2. Remove the subframe (page 32).
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only. 3. Check for a broken or collapsed spring.
4. Check the rear shock absorber (1) for a bent
• When your CRF is new, break it in for rod or oil leaks.
approximately one hour with the standard
suspension settings before attempting to
adjust the rear suspension.
• Make all compression and rebound damping (1)
adjustments in the specified increment or
turns described in page 110. (Adjusting two or
more increments or turns at a time may cause
you to pass over the best adjustment.) Test
ride after each adjustment.
• If the rear suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust it
by turning all the compression and rebound
adjusters according to the procedures
described in page 110. After adjusting the
adjusters simultaneously, suspension may be (1) rear shock absorber
fine-tuned by turning one of the compression
and rebound damping adjusters in one click or 5. Push the rear wheel sideways to check for
in 1/12 turn increments. worn or loose swingarm bearings. There
• If you have a problem finding an acceptable should be no movement. If there is, have the
adjustment, return to the standard position and bearings replaced by your Honda dealer.
begin again.

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Suspension
NOTICE 5. Drain the fork oil by turning the outer tube (1)
Recommended Fork Oil upside down. (About 12 cc of fork oil will be
The outer tube (1) can drop on the slider (7) and left in the outer tube when it is left inverted
damage the fork dust seal (5) and guide bushing for about 20 minutes at 20 °C/68°F.)
viscosity (weight) 5 W
(6) when the fork damper is removed. To avoid
suggested oil Pro Honda HP Fork Oil or damage hold both the outer tube and slider when (1)
equivalent removing the fork damper.

Fork Oil Change (5)


(6)
Refer to Front Suspension Disassembly on page
97.

1. Clean the fork assembly, especially the sliding


surface of the slider and dust seal. (7) (1)
2. Record the rebound damping adjuster position
and turn the adjuster counterclockwise until it (1) outer tube (6) guide bushing
(5) dust seal (7) slider (1) outer tube
stops.
3. Hold the outer tube (1), then remove the fork
damper (2) from the outer tube using the lock 4. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (1). Amount of fork oil left in the fork
Drain the fork oil from the oil hole (9) of the (within damper and spring) unit: cc
nut wrench (3). Gently slide the outer tube minute
down onto the lower end of the slider (4). fork damper.
5 10 20 35 55 85 145
°C/°F

(1) 30/86 27 15.3 10.6 9.4 8.3 7.9 7.9


(2)
(1) 20/68 29.4 16.5 11.8 10.6 9.4 8.2 8.2
(9)
10/50 28.2 21.2 16.5 15.3 12.9 11.8 11.8
0/32 30.6 22.4 18.8 16.5 16.5 15.3 14.1
(1)

(3)

(4)

(1) outer tube (3) lock nut wrench (1) outer tube (9) oil hole
(2) fork damper (4) slider, lower end

(cont’d)

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Suspension
6. Pour the recommended fork oil into the outer Fork Oil Capacity: Optional Stiffer (0.48 kgf/mm) Fork Spring
tube. Standard (0.46 kgf/mm) Fork Spring
No mark
(factory products) 4 scribe marks

2 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
Standard oil 12.8 US oz
Standard oil 13.0 US oz capacity (378 cm3)
capacity (384 cm3) Maximum oil 13.6 US oz Slightly stiffer as
Maximum oil 13.8 US oz Slightly stiffer as capacity (401 cm3) it nears full
capacity (407 cm3) it nears full compression.
compression. Minimum oil 10.3 US oz Slightly softer as
Minimum oil 10.5 US oz Slightly softer as capacity (305 cm3) it nears full
capacity (311 cm3) it nears full compression.
compression.
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
Optional Softer (0.44 kgf/mm) Fork Spring legs.

7. Check that the O-ring (10) on the fork damper


3 scribe marks (2) is in good condition. Apply the
recommended fork oil to the O-ring.
Temporarily install the fork damper to the
outer tube (1).
Standard oil 13.2 US oz
capacity (389 cm3)
After installing the fork leg (page 106),
tighten the fork damper to the specified
Maximum oil 13.9 US oz Slightly stiffer as
capacity (412 cm3) it nears full
torque:
compression. 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
Minimum oil 10.7 US oz Slightly softer as
capacity (316 cm3) it nears full
compression.
(10) (2)

(1)

(1) outer tube


(2) fork damper
(10) O-ring

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Brakes
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Front Brake Lever Adjustment Rear Brake Pedal Height
Both the front and rear brakes are the hydraulic
disc type. As the brake pads wear, the brake The rear brake pedal height should be
fluid level will drop. A leak in the system will (3) (2) approximately level with the right footpeg.
also cause the level to drop.
1. Loosen the adjuster lock nut (1) and turn the
Frequently inspect the system to ensure there are adjusting bolt (2) in direction (+) to raise the
no fluid leaks. Periodically inspect the brake rear brake pedal (3) or in direction (–) to
3/8 – 13/16 in
fluid level and the brake pads for wear. (10 – 20 mm) lower it.
2. Tighten the adjuster lock nut to the specified
If the front brake lever or rear brake pedal torque at the desired pedal height.
freeplay does not feel within the normal range (1) 4.4 lbf·ft (5.9 N·m, 0.6 kgf·m)
while riding, check the brake pads. If they are
not worn beyond the recommended limit (page (1) lock nut (3) knocker arm
80), there is probably air in the brake system. (3)
(2) adjuster (–)
Refer to the Honda Service Manual or see your
Honda dealer to have the air bled from the 1. Loosen the lock nut (1).
system. 2. To position the front brake lever farther away
from the handgrip, turn the adjuster (2) (+)
clockwise.
To position the front brake lever closer to the (1)
handgrip, turn the adjuster counterclockwise. (2)
3. While holding the adjuster, tighten the lock
nut.
4. Apply the brake, release it, then spin the
wheel and check that it rotates freely. Repeat (1) lock nut (+) raise the pedal height
this procedure several times. (2) adjusting bolt (–) lower the pedal height
(3) rear brake pedal
5. Check freeplay by pulling in slowly on the
front brake lever until the brake starts to
engage.
Freeplay: 3/8 – 13/16 in (10 – 20 mm)
6. Apply silicone grease to the contacting faces
of the adjuster and knocker arm (3).

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Brakes
Rear Brake Fluid Level Check
Fluid Level Inspection

Front Brake Fluid Level Check

(2)

(1) (2) LOWER mark

With the motorcycle in an upright position, check


the fluid level.
(1) LWR mark
It should be above the LOWER mark (2). If the
With the motorcycle in an upright position, check level is at or below the LOWER mark, check the
the fluid level. brake pads for wear (page 80).
It should be above the LWR mark (1). If the level Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads
is at or below the LWR mark, check the brake are not worn, have your brake system inspected
pads for wear (page 80). for leaks.
Worn brake pads should be replaced. If the pads If the rear brake pedal freeplay exceeds 0.8 in
are not worn, have your brake system inspected (20 mm), there is probably air in the brake
for leaks. system and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda
If the front brake lever freeplay exceeds 13/16 in Service Manual or see your Honda motorcycle
(20 mm), there is probably air in the brake dealer for brake bleeding.
system and it must be bled. Refer to the Honda
Service Manual or see your Honda motorcycle
dealer for brake bleeding.

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Brakes
Adding Front Brake Fluid Adding Rear Brake Fluid

NOTICE NOTICE
Spilled brake fluid will severely damage Spilled brake fluid will severely damage
instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also instrument lenses and painted surfaces. It is also
harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful harmful to some rubber parts. Be careful
whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make whenever you remove the reservoir cap; make
sure the reservoir is horizontal first. sure the reservoir is horizontal first.

• Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a • Always use fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a
sealed container when servicing the system. Do sealed container when servicing the system. Do
not mix different types of fluid, they may not not mix different types of fluid, they may not
be compatible. be compatible.
• The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda • The recommended brake fluid is Pro Honda
DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent. DOT 4 brake fluid or an equivalent.

(1) (9)
(5)
(2) (4)

(3)
(7)

(6)
(8)

(1) screws (3) diaphragm (5) bolts


(2) reservoir cap (4) upper level mark (6) reservoir cap
(7) set plate
1. Remove the screws (1), reservoir cap (2) and (8) diaphragm
(9) upper level mark
diaphragm (3).
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
1. Remove the bolts (5), reservoir cap (6), set
the upper level mark (4). Do not overfill.
plate (7) and diaphragm (8).
3. Reinstall the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
2. Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid to
4. Tighten the screws to the specified torque:
the upper level mark (9). Do not overfill.
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)
3. Reinstall the diaphragm, set plate and
reservoir cap.
4. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque:
0.7 lbf·ft (1.0 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m)

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Brakes
Rear Brake Pads
Brake Pad Wear Inspect the brake pads (4) from the rear side of
the caliper to determine the pad wear. If either
Brake pad wear depends on the severity of usage pad is worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in
and track conditions. (Generally, the pads will (1 mm), both pads must be replaced.
wear faster on wet and dirty tracks) Inspect the
pads at each regular maintenance interval (page (5)
21).
minimum thickness
indicator
Front Brake Pads
Inspect the brake pads (1) through the front 0.04 in
(4) (1 mm)
wheel to determine the pad wear. If either pad is
worn anywhere to a thickness of 0.04 in (1 mm),
both pads must be replaced.

minimum thickness
indicator replace
(2) (3)

0.04 in
(1 mm) (6)
(1)

(4) brake pads (6) brake disc


(5) rear brake caliper
replace

(1) Other Inspections


0.04 in
(1 mm)
Check that the front brake lever and rear brake
pedal assemblies are positioned properly and the
securing bolts are tight.

wear indicator Make sure there are no fluid leaks. Check for
grooves
deterioration or cracks in the hoses and fittings.
(1) brake pads (3) brake disc
(2) front brake caliper

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Wheels
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. 2. Tighten, any loose spokes and rim locks (3) to
the specified torque:
Maintenance of spoke tension and wheel trueness Spoke :
(roundness) is critical to safe motorcycle (front) 2.7 lbf·ft (3.68 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
operation. During the first few rides, spokes will (rear) 2.7 lbf·ft (3.7 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)
loosen more rapidly due to the initial seating of Rim Lock : 9 lbf·ft (12 N·m, 1.2 kgf·m)
the parts. Excessively loose spokes may result in 3. Check wheel rim runout. If runout is
instability at high speeds and the possible loss of noticeable, see the Honda Service Manual for
control. It’s also important that the rim locks are inspection instructions.
secure to prevent tire slippage.

It is not necessary to remove the wheels to Axles & Wheel Bearings


perform the recommended service in the
Maintenance Schedule (page 21). However, See the Honda Service Manual for inspection
information for wheel removal is provided for information:
emergency situations.
1. Check the axle shaft for runout.
2. Check the condition of the wheel bearings.
Wheel Rims & Spokes

(3)

(2)

(1)

(1) wheel rim (3) rim lock


(2) spoke

1. Inspect the wheel rims (1) and spokes (2) for


damages.

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Tires & Tubes


Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. Always check air pressure when your tires are • Inspect carefully for bumps or bulges in the
“cold.” If you check air pressure when your tires side of the tire or the tread. Replace any tire
To safely operate your CRF, the tires must be the are “warm” — even if your CRF has only been that has a bump or bulge.
proper type (off-road) and size, in good condition ridden for a few miles — the readings will be • Look closely for cuts, slits, or cracks in the
with adequate tread, and correctly inflated. higher. If you let air out of warm tires to match tires. Replace a tire if you can see fabric or
the recommended cold pressures, the tires will be cord.
underinflated. • Check for rocks or other objects embedded in
WARNING The correct “cold” tire pressures are: the tire or tread. Remove any objects.
• Measure tread depth (1). Replace the tire
Using tires that are excessively worn or Front 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2) before depth at the center reaches 0.12 in (3
improperly inflated can cause a crash in mm), or any time you notice a reduction in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed. Rear 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2) traction.
• Check the position of both valve stems. A
Follow all instructions in this owner’s If you decide to adjust tire pressures for a tilted valve stem indicates the tube is slipping
manual regarding tire inflation and particular riding condition, make changes a little inside the tire or the tire is slipping on the
maintenance. at a time. rim.

The following pages give detailed information on Inspection Tube Replacement


how and when to check your air pressure, how to
inspect your tires for wear and damage, and our Take time to inspect your tires and wheels before If a tube is punctured or damaged, you should
recommendations on tire repair and replacement. you ride. replace it as soon as possible. A repaired tube
may not have the same reliability as a new one,
and it may fail while you are riding.
Air Pressure
(1)
Use a replacement tube equivalent to the original.
Properly inflated tires provide the best
combination of handling, tread life, and riding
comfort. Generally, underinflated tires wear
unevenly, adversely affect handling, and are more
likely to fail from being overheated.
Underinflated tires can also cause wheel damage
on hard terrain. Overinflated tires make your
CRF ride harshly, are more prone to damage
from surface hazards, and wear unevenly. (1) tire tread depth

Make sure the valve stem caps are secure. If


necessary, install a new cap.

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Tires & Tubes


Tire Replacement

The tires that came on your CRF were designed


to provide a good combination of handling,
braking, durability, and comfort across a broad
range of riding conditions.

WARNING
Installing improper tires on your
motorcycle can affect handling and
stability. This can cause a crash in which
you can be seriously hurt or killed.

Always use the size and type of tires


recommended in this owner’s manual.

80/100 – 21 51M
Front
DUNLOP D742FA
110/90 – 19 62M
Rear
DUNLOP D756

Type bias-ply, tube

• Use a replacement tire equivalent to the


original.
• Replace the tube any time you replace a tire.
The old tube will probably be stretched and, if
installed in a new tire, could fail.

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Drive Chain
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
(4)
The service life of the chain depends on proper (1)
lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance
can cause premature wear or damage to the drive
chain or sprockets.

When the motorcycle is ridden on unusually


dusty or muddy tracks, more frequent
maintenance will be necessary.
(2) (3)
Before servicing your drive chain, turn the
engine OFF and check that your transmission is (1) drive chain slack (3) driven sprocket
in neutral. (2) drive sprocket
(4) chain slider
3. Check drive chain slack at several points
Drive Chain Inspection along the chain. The slack should remain 6. Check the chain guide slider (5) for wear.
constant. If it isn’t, some links may be kinked Replace the guide slider if it is worn to the
1. Turn the engine off, raise the rear wheel off and binding. Lubricating the chain will often bottom of the wear limit (6).
the ground by placing the optional workstand eliminate binding and kinking.
or equivalent support under the engine and
shift the transmission into neutral. NOTICE (5)
2. Check slack (1) in the upper drive chain run
midway between the sprockets (2)(3). Drive Excessive chain slack may allow the drive chain
chain slack should allow the following to damage the engine cases.
vertical movement by hand:
1 – 1 3/8 in (25 – 35 mm) 4. Inspect the drive chain for:
• damaged rollers
• loose pins
• dry or rusted links
• kinked or binding links (6)
• excessive wear

Replace the drive chain (page 85) if it has (5) chain guide slider (6) wear limit
damaged rollers, loose pins, or kinks that cannot
be free. Lubricate the drive chain (page 85) if it 7. Measure the diameter of the upper (7) and
appears dry or shows signs of rust. Lubricate lower drive chain rollers (8). Replace them if
any kinked or binding links and work them free. below the service limit.
Adjust chain slack if needed. SERVICE LIMIT:
upper roller: 1.5 in (39 mm)
5. Check the chain slider (4) for wear. lower roller: 1.4 in (35 mm)
If the wear is 0.2 in (5 mm) or more, replace it.

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Drive Chain
Replace the roller if necessary as follows.
Install the upper drive chain roller (Green) with (5) Removal, Cleaning & Replacement
(2)
the “/” mark (9) facing toward the frame and (4)
lower drive chain rollar (Black) with the “/” For maximum service life, the drive chain should
mark (9) side facing out. be cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted before each
outing.
(7)
(9) (3)
(6) 1. Remove the master link retaining clip (1) with
(1) pliers. Do not bend or twist the clip.
Remove the master link (2). Remove the
drive chain.

(1) rear axle nut (4) index mark


(2)
(2) lock nut (5) axle plate
(3) adjusting bolt (6) reference marks

(9) 3. Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified


(8)
torque:
(7) upper drive chain roller /” mark
(9) “/ 94 lbf·ft (128 N·m, 13.1 kgf·m)
(8) lower drive chain roller 4. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.
5. Loosen the adjusting bolt counterclockwise
8. Check the driven sprocket nut torque values lightly until it touches the axle plate. Then,
after each race. while holding the adjusting bolt with a wrench, (1)
24 lbf·ft (32 N·m, 3.3 kgf·m) tighten the lock nut to the specified torque:
20 lbf·ft (27 N·m, 2.8 kgf·m)
(1) retaining clip (2) master link
Adjustment
Lubrication 2. Clean the drive chain in high flash-point
1. Loosen the rear axle nut (1). solvent and allow it to dry.
2. Loosen the lock nuts (2) and turn the Commercially prepared drive chain lubricants 3. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or
adjusting bolts (3) counterclockwise to may be purchased at most motorcycle shops and damage. Replace the drive chain if it has
decrease slack or clockwise to increase slack. should be used in preference to motor oil. Pro damaged rollers, loose fitting links, or
Align the index marks (4) of the axle plates Honda Chain Lube or an equivalent, or SAE 80 otherwise appears unserviceable.
(5) with the same reference marks (6) on both or 90 gear oil is recommended.
sides of the swingarm.
Saturate each chain joint so that the lubricant
penetrates the space between adjacent surfaces of
the link plates and rollers.

(cont’d)

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Drive Chain
4. Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear or damage. 5. Measure a section of the drive chain to
We recommend replacing the sprocket determine whether the chain is worn beyond More About Drive Chain
whenever a new chain is installed. its service limit. Put the transmission in gear,
Both chain and sprockets must be in good and then turn the rear wheel forward until the • The master link is the most critical element of
condition, or the new replacement chain or lower section of the chain is pulled taut. With drive chain security. Master links are
sprocket(s) will wear rapidly. the chain held taut and any kinked joints reusable, as long as they remain in excellent
Excessively worn sprocket teeth have a straightened, measure the distance between a condition. We recommend installing a new
hooked, worn appearance. Replace any span of 17 pins, from pin center to pin center. master link retaining clip when the drive
sprocket which is damaged or excessively If the measurement exceeds the service limit, chain is reassembled.
worn. replace the chain. After the chain is • You may find it easier to install a new chain
measured, shift the transmission into neutral by connecting it to the old chain with a
again before proceeding with inspection and master link and pulling the old chain to
service. position the new chain on the sprockets.

Replacement chain:
Size/link: D.I.D 520DMA2/114
Service limit: 10.20 in (259.0 mm)

MEASURE A SPAN OF 17 PINS (16 PITCHES)


NOTICE
Use of a new chain with worn sprockets will
cause rapid chain wear. 6. Lubricate the drive chain (page 85).
7. Pass the chain over the sprockets and join the
ends of the chain with the master link. For
ease of assembly, hold the chain ends against
adjacent rear sprocket teeth while inserting
the master link. Install the master link
retaining clip so that the closed end of the clip
will face the direction of forward wheel
rotation.
8. Recheck chain slack and adjust as necessary.

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Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
2. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt (4).
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Inspection 3. Remove the muffler A bolt (5), muffler B
1. Check the flange bolts and exhaust pipe joint bolt/washers (6) and muffler (7).
nuts for tightness.
2. Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for cracks (6) (5)
or deformation. (4)
A damaged exhaust pipe and muffler may reduce
engine performance.

Muffler Removal

1. Remove the seat mounting bolt (1), side cover


bolt (2) and right side cover (3).
(7)

(4) muffler clamp bolt (6) muffler B bolt/washers


(1) (5) muffler A bolt (7) muffler

(3)

(2)

(1) seat mounting bolt (3) right side cover


(2) side cover bolt

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Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
5. Tighten the muffler B bolt/washers (8) and 7. Install the right side cover (11) and side cover
Muffler Installation muffler A bolt (9) to the specified torque: bolt (12).
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m) 8. Install the seat mounting bolt (13) and tighten
1. Remove the gasket (1). 6. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt (10) to the it to the specified torque:
2. Install the muffler clamp (2) and new gasket specified torque: 19 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m)
onto the exhaust pipe (3). 15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)

(13)
(1)
(8) (10)
(2)

(11)
(3)
(9)
(12)
(1) gasket (3) exhaust pipe (8) muffler B bolt/washers (10) muffler clamp bolt
(2) muffler clamp (9) muffler A bolt (11) right side cover (13) seat mounting bolt
(12) side cover bolt
3. Install the muffler (4).
4. Install the muffler clamp (5) by aligning the
tab (6) of the muffler clamp with the cut-out
(7) of the muffler.
(4)
(5)

(7)

(6)

(4) muffler (6) tab


(5) muffler clamp (7) cut-out

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Exhaust Pipe/Muffler
Exhaust Pipe Removal Exhaust Pipe Installation

1. Remove the muffler (page 87). 1. Install a new exhaust pipe gasket (1), exhaust
2. Remove the exhaust pipe joint nuts (1), pipe (2) and exhaust pipe joint nuts (3) and
exhaust pipe (2) and exhaust pipe gasket (3). tighten to the specified torque:
15 lbf·ft (21 N·m, 2.1 kgf·m)
(2)
(1) (2)
(3)

(3)
(1)
(1) exhaust pipe joint nuts
(2) exhaust pipe (1) exhaust pipe gasket
(3) exhaust pipe gasket (2) exhaust pipe
(3) exhaust pipe joint nuts

2. Install the muffler (page 88).

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Additional Maintenance Procedures


Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19.
Handlebar Inspection
Steering Head Bearing Inspection 1. Check the handlebar (1) for bends or cracks.
2. Check that the handlebar has not moved from
1. With your CRF on a box or workstand (front its proper position (by inspecting the paint
wheel elevated), turn the handlebar to the mark (2)).
right and left to check for roughness in the 3. Check the torque of the upper holder (3) bolts:
steering head bearings. 16 lbf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Tighten the front bolts first.

(1)

(2)
2. Stand in front of your CRF, grab the fork (at (3)
the axle), look at the steering head, and push
the fork in and out (toward the engine) to (1) handlebar (3) handlebar upper holders
check for play in the steering head bearings. (2) paint mark
If any roughness or play is felt, but you do
not see any movement in the steering head, Control Cables
the fork bushings may be worn. Refer to the
Honda Service Manual for replacement or
adjustment procedures, or see your Honda Periodically, disconnect the throttle, clutch and
dealer. hot start cables at their upper ends. Thoroughly
lubricate the cable pivot points with a
commercially-available cable lubricant. If the
clutch lever, hot start lever and throttle operation
is not smooth, replace the cable.
Be sure the throttle returns freely from fully open
to fully closed automatically, in all steering
positions.

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Additional Maintenance Procedures


LEFT SIDE (1)
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
(8)
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners
before every outing.
ENGINE
Torque
Item
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
(7)
1 Cylinder head cover bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Clutch cover bolts 7 10 1.0
3 Water pump cover bolts 7 10 1.0
4 Transmission oil check
bolt 7 10 1.0
5 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5
6 Oil filter cover bolts 9 12 1.2
7 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
8 Cylinder head bolts 7 10 1.0 (6)
9 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 15 21 2.1
10 Drive sprocket bolt 23 31 3.2

RIGHT SIDE
(10)
(1) (1) cylinder head cover bolts
(6) oil filter cover bolts
(7) cylinder bolt
(8) cylinder head bolts
(10) drive sprocket bolt

(9)

(3)
(2) (4) (5)

(1) cylinder head cover bolts


(2) clutch cover bolts
(3) water pump cover bolts
(4) transmission oil check bolt
(5) crankshaft hole cap
(9) exhaust pipe joint nuts

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Appearance Care
Refer to Safety Precautions on page 19. If you use a high pressure washer, avoid spraying
the following areas: Washing Your Motorcycle with a Mild
Frequent cleaning and polishing will keep your wheel hubs Detergent
Honda looking newer longer. Frequent cleaning muffler outlet
also identifies you as an owner who values his under seat 1. Rinse your CRF thoroughly with cool water to
motorcycle. A clean CRF is also easier to inspect engine stop button remove loose dirt.
and service. brake master cylinders 2. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild,
under fuel tank neutral detergent, such as dish washing
While you’re cleaning, be sure to look for drive chain liquid or a product made especially for
damage, wear, and gasoline or oil leaks. carburetor washing motorcycles or automobiles.
steering head bearings 3. Wash your CRF with a sponge or a soft towel.
suspension pivot points As you wash, check for heavy grime. If
General Recommendations necessary, use a mild cleaner/degreaser to
(1) remove the grime.
• To clean your CRF you may use:
– water Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it
– a mild, neutral detergent and water could damage or discolor the frame surface.
– a mild spray and wipe cleaner/polisher Muffler stain remover is for removing stains on
– a mild spray and rinse cleaner/degreaser and the non-coated aluminum frame only.
water
• Avoid products that contain harsh detergents 4. After washing, rinse your CRF thoroughly
or chemical solvents that could damage the with plenty of clean water to remove any
metal, paint, and plastic on your CRF or (2) residue.
discolor the seat and decals. 5. Dry your CRF with a chamois or a soft towel.
• If your CRF is still warm from recent (1) steering head bearings 6. Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
operation, give the engine and exhaust system (2) suspension pivot points 7. Start the engine and let it idle for several
time to cool off. minutes. The engine heat will help dry moist
• We recommend the use of a garden hose to NOTICE areas.
wash your CRF. High pressure washers (like 8. As a precaution, ride at a slow speed and
those at coin-operated car washes) can High pressure water (or air) can damage apply the brakes several times. This will help
damage certain parts of your CRF. The force certain parts of your motorcycle. dry the brakes and restore normal braking
of water under extreme pressure can penetrate performance.
the dust seals of the suspension pivot points You may use Pro Honda Hondabrite, a
and steering head bearings-driving dirt inside multi-surface cleaner/degreaser, to remove both
and needed lubrication out. dirt and petroleum-based grime from paint, alloy,
plastic, and rubber surfaces. Wet any heavy
deposits with water first. Then spray on the Pro
Honda Hondabrite and rinse with a garden hose
at full pressure. Stubborn deposits may require a
quick wipe with a sponge.

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Appearance Care
Condensation Control Aluminum Frame Maintenance Exhaust Pipe Maintenance

Some condensation can form within the Aluminum corrodes when it comes in contact The exhaust pipe is stainless steel, but may
transmission cavity as well. This is natural and with dust, mud and road salt. became stained by oil or mud.
just one more reason you should change the
engine and transmission oil often. To remove stains, use Scotch Brite Hand Pad Remove heat stains with a liquid kitchen
#7447 (maroon) or an equivalent. abrasive.
Wet the pad and polish the surface using strokes
After Cleaning Lubrication parallel to the length of the frame.

There are some things you should do just after Clean the frame using a wet sponge and a mild
washing your CRF to help prevent rust and detergent, then rinse well with clean water. Dry
corrosion. the frame with a soft clean cloth, using strokes
parallel to the length of the frame.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should
protect any bare steel from rusting by applying a NOTICE
light coating of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the
drive chain and drive sprocket after removing Do not use steel wool to clean the frame as it
and thoroughly cleaning in solvent. Be sure the could damage or discolor the frame surface.
chain is wiped clean and is dry before applying Muffler stain remover (Scotch Brite Hand Pad
the chain lube. #7447-maroon) is for removing stains on the
non-coated aluminum frame only.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake
and clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot
pins.

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94 Servicing Your Honda


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Adjustments for Competition


This section tells you how to fine tune your CRF Front Suspension Adjustments...........................96
for maximum competition performance. Front Suspension Air Pressure......................96
Front Suspension Damping ..........................96
Initial suspension adjustments should be Fork Springs..................................................97
performed after a minimum of two hours of easy Front Suspension Disassembly .....................97
break-in time. Damper Oil Change ....................................100
Fork Assembly ............................................103
Optional front and rear suspension springs are Rear Suspension Adjustments ..........................109
available in both stiffer and softer than standard Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load..............109
rates, in order to tailor your CRF specifically for Rear Suspension Damping..........................110
your weight, riding style and course conditions. Rear Suspension Race Sag..........................111
Suspension Adjustments for Track
Follow the instructions given in the rear Conditions ........................................................113
suspension sag setting section of Rear Suspension Adjustment Guidelines..................114
Suspension Adjustments to determine if your Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips ...........117
combined rider and sprung machine weight (rider Carburetor Components ..............................117
fully dressed for competition and machine Carburetor Circuit Functions ......................119
coolant, oil and fuel levels ready for competition) Carburetor Removal....................................119
requires an optional stiffer or softer rear spring. Carburetor Disassembly..............................121
The need for either optional rear spring may need Carburetor Assembly ..................................123
to be balanced by installing the optional fork Standard Tuning Recommendations ...........124
springs of a similar rate. Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature ...124
Special Tuning Conditions..........................125
Pre-Adjustment Checks ..............................125
Carburetor Minor Adjustments ...................126
Spark Plug Reading ....................................128
Chassis Adjustments.........................................129
Rear End .....................................................129
Fork Height/Angle ......................................129
Wheelbase ...................................................129
Gearing .............................................................130
Tire Selection for Track Conditions.................131
Personal Fit Adjustments .................................132
Control Positioning .....................................132
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........132

Adjustments for Competition 95


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Front Suspension Adjustments


The front suspension can be adjusted for the
rider’s weight and riding conditions by using one Front Suspension Air Pressure Front Suspension Damping
or more of the following methods:
Air is an unstable gas which builds up pressure Rebound Damping Adjustment
• Oil volume — The effects of higher or lower as it is worked (such as in a fork). Air pressure The fork rebound damping adjuster screw (1) has
fork oil level are only felt during the final 3.9 acts as a progressive spring and affects the entire 16 positions or more. Turning the adjuster screw
in (100 mm) of fork travel. range of fork travel. This means the fork action one full turn clockwise advances the adjuster four
• Compression damping — Turning the on your CRF will get stiffer during a race. For positions. To adjust the rebound damping to the
this reason, release built-up air pressure in the
compression damping screw adjusts how fork legs between motos. Be sure the fork is standard setting, proceed as follows:
quickly the fork compresses. fully extended with the front tire off the ground Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
• Rebound damping — Turning the rebound when you release the pressure. turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
damping screw adjusts how quickly the fork The adjuster is set in the standard position when
extends. The standard air pressure is 0 psi (0 kPa, 0 the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 9 clicks.
• Fork springs — Optional springs are kgf/cm2). You may relieve accumulated air Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
available in softer and stiffer types than the pressure in the fork legs by using the pressure same position.
standard rate. (page 148) release screws. The front wheel should be off the
ground before you release the pressure. The air Compression Damping Adjustment
The inverted fork on your CRF features sealed pressure should be adjusted according to the This adjustment affects how quickly the fork
damper cartridges with dual (separate air and oil) altitude and outside temperature. compresses. The fork compression damping
chambers to prevent aeration. The design also adjuster screw (2) has 16 positions or more.
isolates the oil in each fork tube/slider, which 1. Place an optional workstand under the engine, Turning the adjuster screw one full turn changes
so that the front wheel is off the ground.
may contain air bubbles and/or metal particles, Do not adjust air pressure with the front wheel the adjuster four positions. To adjust the adjuster
from the sealed cartridge to provide more on the ground as this will give false pressure to the standard position, proceed as follows:
consistent damping. readings. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer
(1) 2. Remove the pressure release screw (1). turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard position.
3. Check that the O-ring (2) is in good condition. The adjuster is set in the standard position when
4. Install and tighten the pressure release screw the adjuster is turned counterclockwise 7 clicks.
to the specified torque: Make sure that both fork legs are adjusted to the
0.9 lbf·ft (1.2 N·m, 0.1 kgf·m) same position.

(1)
(2)

(2)

(1) compression damping adjuster


(2) rebound damping adjuster (1) pressure release screw (2) O-ring

96 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


Both compression and rebound damping can be
increased by turning the adjuster clockwise. Fork Springs Front Suspension Disassembly

NOTICE The fork springs in CRF’s are about right for • If your CRF is brand-new, put enough part-
riders weighing between 150 and 160 lbs (less throttle break-in time (about one hour) on it to
Always start with full hard when adjusting riding gear). So if you're a heavier rider, you ensure that the suspension has worked in.
damping. have to go up on the oil level or get a stiffer • For optimum performance, and extended fork
Do not turn the adjuster screw more than the spring. Do not use less oil than the minimum life, the fork should be completely
given positions or the adjuster may be damaged. specified for each spring or there will be a loss of disassembled and cleaned after the first three
Be sure that the rebound and compression rebound damping control near full extension. If hours of riding. See the Service Manual or
adjusters are firmly located in a detent, and not the fork is too hard on big bumps, turn the your Honda dealer for this service.
between positions. damping adjuster counterclockwise 1-turn and • When disassembling the fork, turn the
lower the oil level in increments of 0.2 oz (5 cc) rebound (1) and compression (2) adjusters
(2) in both fork legs until the desired performance is counterclockwise to the softest position to
obtained. Do not, however, lower the oil level prevent damaging the adjustment needle (be
below the minimum oil level. sure to record the number of turns from the
starting position).
Minimum oil capacity:
Standard spring: 10.5 US oz (311 cm3)
(2)
Softer spring: 10.7 US oz (316 cm3)
Stiffer spring: 10.3 US oz (305 cm3)

When adjusting oil levels, bear in mind that the


(1) air in the fork will increase in pressure while
riding; therefore, the higher the oil level, the
(1) rebound damping (2) compression higher the eventual pressure of any air in the
adjuster screw damping fork.
adjuster screw
Oil capacity 13.8 US oz (407 cm3)
(MAX)
(1)

Oil capacity 13.0 US oz (384 cm3) (1) rebound damping (2) compression
(STANDARD)
adjuster screw damping
Force (N)

adjuster screw
Oil capacity 10.5 US oz (311 cm3)
(MIN)

Stroke (mm)

Adjustments for Competition 97


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Front Suspension Adjustments


1. Place your CRF on the optional workstand or 5. Loosen the upper pinch bolts (8). 8. Remove the front axle nut (11) and loosen the
equivalent support with the front wheel off the 6. Loosen the fork damper (7), but do not front axle pinch bolts (12) on both forks.
ground. remove them yet. Pull the front axle shaft (13) out of the wheel
2. Unlock the number plate tab (3) from the hub and remove the front wheel.
handlebar pad (4). NOTICE
3. Remove the handlebar pad. (12) (12)
Do not use an adjustable wrench to loosen the
(4) fork damper: it may damage them.

(7)
(8)

(13) (11)

(11) front axle nut (13) front axle shaft


(3) (12) axle pinch bolts
(3) number plate tab
(4) handlebar pad
9. Remove the fork protector bolts (14), brake
(7) fork damper (8) upper pinch bolts hose clamp bolts (15) and fork protectors
4. Remove the handlebar holder nuts, washers, (16).
mounting rubbers (5) and handlebar (6). 7. Remove the disc cover (9) by removing the 10. Remove the brake caliper bolts (17) and brake
two bolts (10). caliper (18).
NOTICE Do not support the brake caliper by the brake
hose. Do not operate the brake lever after the
Keep the master cylinder upright to prevent air front wheel is removed. To do so will cause
from entering system. (9) difficulty in fitting the brake disc between the
brake pads.
(16)
(10)

(14)
(6) (15)

(9) disc cover (10) bolts


(17)
(5)

(14) (18)
(5) handlebar holder nuts/washers/mounting rubbers (14) fork protector bolts (17) brake caliper bolts
(6) handlebar (15) brake hose clamp bolts (18) brake caliper
(16) fork protectors

98 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


11.Loosen the fork leg lower pinch bolts (19), 15.Hold the outer tube, then remove the fork 16.Drain the fork oil from the outer tube (28).
then pull the fork legs down and out. damper (23) from the outer tube using a lock Drain the fork oil from the oil hole (29) of the
nut wrench (24). Gently slide the outer tube fork damper.
down onto the lower end (axle holder) (25).
(28)
(23)
(29)

(25)
(24)
(19)

(19) lower pinch bolts (28) outer tube (29) oil hole

12.Clean the fork assembly, especially the (23) fork damper (25) axle holder 17.Temporarily install the fork damper to the
(24) lock nut wrench
sliding surface (20) of the slider and dust seal outer tube.
(21). 18.Place the lower end (axle holder) (25) of the
13.Record the rebound damping adjuster position NOTICE slider in a vise with a piece of wood or soft
and turn the adjuster counterclockwise until it jaws to avoid to damage.
stops. The outer tube (28) can drop on the slider (26)
14.Measure the length (22) between the axle and damage the fork dust seal (21) and guide
holder and outer tube and record it before bushing (27) when the fork damper is removed. NOTICE
disassembling the fork. To avoid damage hold both the outer tube and
slider when removing the fork damper. Overtightening the vice can damage the axle
holder.
(21) (20)
19.Loosen the fork center bolt (30).
(21)
(27)

(25)

(22)
(26) (28)

(20) sliding surface (22) length (21) dust seal (27) guide bushing
(21) dust seal (26) slider (28) outer tube
(30)

(25) axle holder (30) fork center bolt


(cont’d)

Adjustments for Competition 99


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Front Suspension Adjustments


20.Push out the fork center bolt from the axle 24.Remove the push rod (33) from the fork
holder of the slider by pushing the fork damper. Damper Oil Change
damper. 25.Remove the special tool or mechanic's stopper
21.Make the mechanic's stopper tool out of a thin tool (31) between the axle holder (25) and 1. Place the fork damper (1) in a vise with a
piece of steel (1.0 mm thick) as shown if you lock nut (32) while applying pressure to the piece of wood or soft jaws to avoid damage.
do not have the special tool. fork cap. 2. Loosen the fork cap assembly (2) while
holding the fork damper using the lock nut
NOTICE wrench (3).

Be careful not to damage the lock nut and fork (1)


center bolt hole.
(2)
12.2 mm
33 mm

(25)
(31)

22.Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert a


special tool or mechanic's stopper tool (31) (32)
(see below) between the axle holder (25) and
lock nut (32). (3)
23.Hold the lock nut and remove the fork center (33)
bolt (30) from the fork damper. (1) fork damper (3) lock nut wrench
(2) fork cap assembly
(25) axle holder (32) lock nut
NOTICE (31) stopper tool (33) push rod

Do not remove the lock nut from the fork damper 26.Remove the fork damper assembly (34) from
piston rod. If the lock nut is removed, the piston the fork assembly (35).
rod will fall in the fork damper and you cannot Remove the fork from the vise.
reassemble the fork damper. Remove the fork spring (36) from the fork.
(31)
(34)
(25)
(36)

(32) (30) (35)


(25) axle holder (31) stopper tool (34) fork damper assembly (36) fork spring
(30) fork center bolt (32) lock nut (35) fork assembly

100 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


3. Remove the fork cap assembly (2) from the 6. Extend the fork damper piston rod to maximum. 8. Extend the fork damper piston rod to
fork damper (1). Pour the recommended fork oil into the fork maximum. Adjust the oil level of the fork
damper. damper as shown.
Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushing. Recommended Oil: Oil Level: 1.65 – 1.85 in (42 – 47 mm)
Do not disassemble the fork cap assembly. Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5 W or equivalent
Replace the fork cap as an assembly if it is Recommended Amount: (1)
damaged. 6.5 US oz (192 cc, 6.8 Imp oz)

(2)

(1)

1.65 – 1.85 in
(42 – 47 mm)

(1)
(1) fork damper

(1) fork damper 9. Apply fork oil to the bushing (6) and new
O-ring (7) on the fork cap assembly.
7. Pump the fork damper piston rod (5) slowly Extend the fork damper piston rod to
(1) fork damper (2) fork cap assembly several times to bleed the air from the fork maximum, holding it, install the fork cap
damper (1). assembly to the fork damper (1).
4. Empty the fork oil from the oil hole (4) of the
fork damper (1) by pumping the damper rod Be careful not to damage the fork cap bushing.
(1) If it is difficult to install the fork cap assembly,
several times. the fork damper oil level might be higher than
standard oil level. Inspect the fork damper oil
level again.
(1) (4)
(7) (2)

(5)

(1)
(1) fork damper (5) fork damper piston rod

(6)

(1) fork damper (4) oil hole


(1) fork damper (6) bushing
5. Clean the fork cap and fork damper threads. (2) fork cap assembly (7) O-ring
(cont’d)

Adjustments for Competition 101


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Front Suspension Adjustments


10. Tighten the fork cap assembly (2) while 12. Screw in the lock nut (8) to the fork damper 14. Drain the extra oil from the oil hole (5) of the
holding the cut out of the fork damper (1) piston rod (5) fully. fork damper (1).
using the lock nut wrench (3) to the specified
torque: (5) By doing this procedure, about 0.6 US oz (17
22 Ibf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m) cm3) of fork fluid will be drained from the
(8) damper spring chamber through the oil hole and
(2) cause 5.9 US oz (175 cm3) of fork fluid to be left
(1) in the chamber.

(1) (5)

(5) fork damper piston rod (8) lock nut

Turn the rebound adjuster and compression


(3) adjuster counterclockwise to the softest position.
Check the fork damper piston rod sliding surface
for damage.
(1) fork damper (3) lock nut wrench Apply fork oil to the fork damper piston rod
(2) fork cap assembly sliding surface.
Cover the fork damper piston rod end with soft
11. Hold the fork damper (1) in an upright jaws (9) to prevent fork damage.
position and pump the fork damper piston rod (1) fork damper (5) oil hole
(5) to 3.9 in (100 mm) slowly several times. 15. Blow out the oil from the fork damper spring
NOTICE
chamber using compressed air to the oil hole.
(1) Be careful not to bend or damage the fork Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
damper piston rod when the piston rod is stroked. 16. If you can not use compressed air, remove the
pressure release screw (11) on the fork cap (12).
13. Blow the extra oil off to the fork damper (1)
spring chamber (10) by pumping the fork Hold the fork damper up side down for 10
damper piston rod to full stroke. minutes and drain the oil from the fork
damper spring chamber.
(5)

(10)

(11)
(1)
(1) fork damper (5) fork damper piston rod

(9) (12)

(1) fork damper (10) spring chamber


(9) soft jaws (11) pressure release screw (12) fork cap

102 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


2. Tighten the lock nut (2) fully and measure the
Fork Assembly thread length (A) as shown.

1. Drain the fork oil from the outer tube/slider Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
(1) by placing it upside down.
(About 7 cc of fork oil will be left in the outer Wipe the oil completely off the fork damper.
tube/slider when it is left inverted for about 20
minutes at 20°C)

(2)
(1)

(A)

(2) lock nut (A) thread length

3. Blow out the oil completely off the fork


(1) outer tube/slider
spring (3) using the compressed air.
Install the fork spring.
Install the fork damper assembly (4) to the
outer tube/slider (1).

(4)
(3)

(1)

(1) outer tube/slider (4) fork damper assembly


(3) fork spring
(cont’d)

Adjustments for Competition 103


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Front Suspension Adjustments


4. Place the lower end (axle holder) of the slider 8. Measure the length of the lock nut (2) and 10. Remove the special tool or mechanic's stopper
in a vise with a piece of wood or soft jaws to fork center bolt (8) clearance. tool while applying pressure to the fork
avoid to damage. Standard: 0.06 – 0.08 in (1.5 – 2.0 mm) damper.
Install the fork center bolt (8) to the axle
NOTICE If the clearance is out of specification, check the holder and tighten it to the specified torque:
lock nut and center bolt installation. 51 Ibf·ft (69 N·m, 7.0 kgf·m)
Overtightening the vise can damage the axle
holder.
(2)
5. Temporarily install the fork damper to the fork.
Push out the fork damper piston rod from the (8)
axle holder of the slider by pushing the fork
damper.
Apply pressure to the fork damper and insert
the special tool or mechanic's stopper tool (5)
between the axle holder and lock nut (2).
(8)
Measure the thread length again.
Standard: 0.43 – 0.51 in (11 – 13 mm)
6. Install the push rod (6) into the fork damper
piston rod until it stops.
Check the push rod installation by turning the (2) lock nut (8) fork center bolt (8) fork center bolt
push rod right and left.
7. Apply fork oil to a new O-ring (7) and install 9. Tighten the lock nut (2) to the fork center bolt 11. Measure the length between the axle holder
it to the fork center bolt (8). (8) closely by hand. Tighten the lock nut to and outer tube.
Apply locking agent to the fork center bolt the specified torque: Standard: 12.5 ± 0.1 in (317 ± 2 mm)
threads. 16 Ibf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
Install the fork center bolt to the fork damper 12. Compare the length (10) at assembly and at
piston rod aligning the fork center bolt disassembly. They should be the same length.
adjusting rod (9) to the push rod. Tighten the
fork center bolt fully by hand. If the length at assembly is longer than at
disassembly, check the fork center bolt and lock
(5) nut installation.

(9)

(8) (2)

(8)
(2)
(6) (2) lock nut (10)
(7) (8) fork center bolt
(2) lock nut (7) O-ring (10) length
(5) stopper tool (8) fork center bolt
(6) push rod (9) adjusting rod

104 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


13.Pour the recommended fork oil (11) into the Fork Oil Capacity: Optional Stiffer (0.48 kgf/mm) Fork Spring
outer tube/slider (1). Standard (0.46 kgf/mm) Fork Spring
No mark
Recommended Oil: (factory products) 4 scribe marks
Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5 W or equivalent.
2 scribe marks
(aftermarket parts)
(11) Standard oil 12.8 US oz
Standard oil 13.0 US oz capacity (378 cm3)
capacity (384 cm3) Maximum oil 13.6 US oz Slightly stiffer as
Maximum oil 13.8 US oz Slightly stiffer as capacity (401 cm3) it nears full
capacity (407 cm3) it nears full compression.
(1) compression. Minimum oil 10.3 US oz Slightly softer as
Minimum oil 10.5 US oz Slightly softer as capacity (305 cm3) it nears full
capacity (311 cm3) it nears full compression.
compression.
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both fork
Optional Softer (0.44 kgf/mm) Fork Spring legs.
(1) outer tube/slider (11) fork oil

3 scribe marks

Standard oil 13.2 US oz


capacity (389 cm3)
Maximum oil 13.9 US oz Slightly stiffer as
capacity (412 cm3) it nears full
compression.
Minimum oil 10.7 US oz Slightly softer as
capacity (316 cm3) it nears full
compression.

(cont’d)

Adjustments for Competition 105


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Front Suspension Adjustments


14.Check that the O-ring (12) on the fork damper 17.Tighten the fork damper assembly (4) to the
assembly (4) is in good condition. Apply the specified torque using the lock nut wrench
recommended fork oil to the O-ring. (14).
15.Pull up the outer tube/slider (1) slowly and Actual:
install the fork damper assembly (4) into the 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m, 3.5 kgf·m)
outer tube. Torque wrench scale reading:
23 Ibf·ft (31 N·m, 3.2 kgf·m), using a 20 in
(50 cm) long torque wrench.

When using the lock nut wrench, use a 20-inches (15)


(4) (1)
(12) long deflecting beam type torque wrench. The (16)
lock nut wrench increases the torque wrench’s
leverage, so the torque wrench reading will be (1) outer tube/slider (16) upper fork clamp
less than the torque actually applied to the fork (15) align
damper.
(1) 19.Tighten the fork lower pinch bolts (13) to the
specified torque:
(4) 15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(1) outer tube/slider (12) O-ring 20.Tighten the fork upper pinch bolts (17) to the
(4) fork damper assembly specified torque:
16 Ibf·ft (22 N·m, 2.2 kgf·m)
16.Insert both fork legs into the fork clamps.
Tighten the fork lower pinch bolts (13) to the NOTICE
specified torque:
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m) (14) Over-tightening the pinch bolts can deform the
outer tubes. Deformed outer tubes must be
replaced.

(4) fork damper (14) lock nut wrench


(13) (17)
18.For ease of releasing air pressure after the
forks are installed, loosen the lower pinch
bolts and position the outer tubes so that the
pressure release screws are in front of the
rebound damping adjusters.
(13) Align (15) the top of the outer tube/slider (1)
with the top surface of the upper fork clamp
(16).
(13) lower pinch bolts

(13) lower pinch bolts (17) upper pinch bolts

106 Adjustments for Competition


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Front Suspension Adjustments


21.Clean the threads of the fork protector bolts 24.Clean the surfaces where the axle and axle 25.Install the handlebar (25), mounting rubbers
(18) and axle holder thoroughly. clamps contact each other. washers and handlebar holder nuts (26) and
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads. Install the left and right side collars into the tighten the handlebar holder nuts to the
Install the fork protectors (19), fork protector wheel hub. Insert the front axle shaft through specified torque:
bolts and brake hose clamp bolts (20). the wheel hub from the right side. Make sure 32 Ibf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m)
Tighten the fork protector bolts to the the front axle shaft is seated firmly onto the
specified torque: left fork leg clamp inner surface. Tighten the
5.2 Ibf·ft (7 N·m, 0.7 kgf·m) front axle nut (23) to the specified torque:
65 Ibf·ft (88 N·m, 9.0 kgf·m)
22.Align the brake caliper (22) and hose with the
left fork leg, making sure that the brake hose Tighten the left axle pinch bolts (24) to the
is not twisted. An improperly routed brake specified torque: (25)
hose may rupture and cause a loss of braking 15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
efficiency.
23.Clean the threads of the caliper mounting
bolts (21) and brake caliper thoroughly. (24)
Apply locking agent to the bolt threads. (26)
Install the brake caliper (22) on the slider and
tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the (25) handlebar
(26) mounting rubbers/washers/handlebar holder nuts
specified torque:
22 Ibf·ft (30 N·m, 3.1 kgf·m)

(19)
(23)

(18) (23) front axle nut


(20)
(24) left axle pinch bolts

(21)

(18) (22)

(18) fork protector bolts


(19) fork protectors
(20) brake hose clamp bolts
(21) caliper mounting bolts
(22) brake caliper

(cont’d)

Adjustments for Competition 107


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Front Suspension Adjustments


26.Route the number plate tab (27) around the 28.While keeping the forks parallel, alternately 30.Turn the rebound damping (32) and
handlebar pad (28) as shown. tighten the right axle pinch bolts (29) to the compression damping (33) adjuster screws
specified torque: back to their original settings.
15 Ibf·ft (20 N·m, 2.0 kgf·m)
(33)

(28)
(29)

(27)

(27) number plate tab (32)


(28) handlebar pad
(32) rebound damping (33) compression
(29) right axle pinch bolts adjuster screw damping
27.With the front brake applied, pump the fork adjuster screw
up and down several times to seat the axle NOTICE
and check front brake operation.
To avoid damage when torquing the axle pinch
bolts, be sure the axle is seated firmly onto the
left fork leg clamp inner surface.

29. Install the disc cover (30) and tighten the


bolts (31) to the specified torque:
10 Ibf·ft (13 N·m, 1.3 kgf·m)

(30)

(31)

(30) disc cover (31) bolts

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Rear Suspension Adjustments


The rear suspension can be adjusted for the 3. Check that the spring pre-load is adjusted to Pin spanners should be used for turning the lock
rider’s weight and riding conditions by changing the standard length. Adjust as necessary by nut and adjusting nut. See page 148 for optional
the spring pre-load and the rebound and loosening the lock nut (1) and turning the pin spanners.
compression damping. adjusting nut (2).
Each complete turn of the adjuster nut Spring pre-load length (Standard spring)
The rear shock absorber assembly includes a changes the spring length by 1/16 in (1.5 Standard: 10.11 in (256.7 mm)
damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen mm). Min. : 9.80 in (249.0 mm)
gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or 4. After adjustment, hold the adjusting nut and
dispose of the damper; see your Honda dealer. tighten the lock nut to the specified torque: Spring pre-load length (Optional spring)
The instructions found in this owner’s manual are 32 lbf·ft (44 N·m, 4.5 kgf·m) Min. (Softer, 5.3 kgf/mm): 9.9 in (251 mm)
limited to adjustments of the shock assembly Min. (Stiffer, 5.7 kgf/mm): 9.9 in (251 mm)
only. Min. (Stiffer, 5.9 kgf/mm): 9.8 in (250 mm)
(1)
Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in (3)
an explosion, causing serious injury. (4)
Service or disposal should only be done by your
Honda dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped
with the proper tools, safety equipment and the
official Honda Service Manual.

If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle (2)


break-in time (about one hour) on it to ensure
that the suspension has worked in. (1) lock nut (3) pin spanners
(2) adjusting nut (4) spring length

Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load To increase spring pre-load:


Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin
Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten
cold because it is necessary to remove the the spring length (4). Do not shorten to less
muffler (page 87). than:
An optional pin spanner is available for turning 9.80 in (249.0 mm)
the lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring
pre-load. To decrease spring pre-load:
Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin
1. Place your CRF on an optional workstand or spanners (3) and turn the adjusting nut to
equivalent support with the rear wheel off the increase the spring length (4). Do not increase to
ground. more than:
2. Loosen the connecting tube clamp screw and 10.15 in (257.7 mm)
remove the rear subframe’s three mounting
bolts, then remove the subframe. See page Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length
32. and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring
length:
1/16 in (1.5 mm)
Adjustments for Competition 109
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Rear Suspension Adjustments


High Speed Damping: (3)
Rear Suspension Damping The high speed damping can be adjusted by
turning the hexagonal portion of the compression
Compression Damping adjuster.
Compression damping may be adjusted in two
stages with separate adjusters. To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
The high speed damping adjuster (1) is effective longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard
when damping adjustment is desired for high setting.
speed operation. The low speed damping 2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/2 – 2
adjuster (2) should be used when damping turns and the punch marks are aligned.
adjustment is desired at relatively low speeds.
Low Speed Damping:
• Both the high and low speed compression The low speed damping can be adjusted by (3) rebound damping adjuster
damping can be increased by turning the turning the center screw of the compression
appropriate adjuster clockwise. adjuster. To adjust to the standard position:
• Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in 1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
1/12 turn increments. The low speed compression adjuster has 13 longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
• Be sure the low speed compression adjuster is positions or more. position.
firmly located in a detent, and not between 2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 5 – 8
positions. Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise clicks with the punch marks on the adjuster
advances the adjuster 4 positions. and the shock absorber aligned.
(1)
To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no
longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard
(2) setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 9 clicks
and the punch marks are aligned.

Rebound Damping
The rebound damping adjuster (3) is located at
the lower end of the shock absorber.

It has 17 positions or more. Turning the adjuster


(1) high speed damping adjuster one full turn advances the adjuster 4 positions.
(2) low speed damping adjuster
• Rebound damping can be increased by turning
the adjuster clockwise.
• Be sure that the rebound adjuster is firmly
located in a detent, and not between positions.

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Rear Suspension Adjustments


REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT 4. Calculate the race sag dimension.
Rear Suspension Race Sag To do this, subtract the loaded with rider
dimension (step 3) from the unloaded
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very UNLOADED MEASUREMENT
dimension (step 2).
important for competition use. (without rider) Standard Race Sag: 3.9 in (100 mm)
EXAMPLE: 23.6 in (600 mm)

Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain
travel used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, the desired handling results.
with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, Decreasing the race sag dimension (example:
the race sag dimension should be about one-third 3.5 in, 90 mm) improves turning ability for
of the maximum travel. tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced
CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT straight line stability.
On your CRF, ride height is changed by Increasing the race sag dimension (example:
adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load. 3. Measure the loaded with rider dimension. 4.3 in, 110 mm) may improve stability on
Remove the workstand. With two helpers faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce
Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment available, sit as far forward as possible on turning performance slightly and may upset
The following adjustment procedure establishes your CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel. the balance between the front and rear
the correct starting point for any suspension Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly suspension, producing a harsher ride. This
tuning — the proper rear spring pre-load upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. will happen if the adjustment shifts the
adjustment for your specific needs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of effective wheel travel toward the more
Your CRF should be at normal racing weight, times to help the suspension overcome any progressive end of its range.
including fuel and transmission oil. You should situation and settle to a good reference point.
be wearing all your normal protective apparel. 5. Measure the loaded without rider dimension.
You will need two helpers. Ask the other helper to measure the loaded Do this with your CRF set at the standard race
with rider dimension. sag.
To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary
to measure between two fixed points — from the REAR FENDER MOUNTING BOLT
center of the rear fender mounting bolt to the
center of the chain adjuster lock nut as illustrated BIKE LOADED
(without rider)
here — for three different situations: LOADED EXAMPLE: 21.7 in (550 mm)
(with rider)
EXAMPLE: 19.7 in (500 mm)
unloaded: motorcycle on workstand with rear
suspension fully extended, no rider.
loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with
rider.
loaded without rider: motorcycle on ground,
without rider CHAIN ADJUSTER LOCK NUT Example:
1. Support your CRF on a workstand with the Example: Unloaded = 23.6 in (600 mm)
rear wheel off the ground. Unloaded = 23.6 in (600 mm) – Loaded = 21.7 in (550 mm)
2. Measure the unloaded dimension. – Loaded = 19.7 in (500 mm) Sag = 2.0 in (50 mm)
Race Sag = 3.9 in (100 mm) (Without Rider)
(cont’d)

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Rear Suspension Adjustments


6. Calculate the free sag dimension. Because of the great absorption quality of the
To do this, subtract the loaded without rider shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you
dimension (step 5) from the unloaded to notice when your CRF’s suspension is
dimension (step 2). bottoming. Some riders may think the damping
Free sag indicates the distance your rear or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh. In
suspension should sag from the weight of the reality, the problem is most likely insufficient
sprung portion of your CRF. spring pre-load or a spring that is too soft. Either
With the spring pre-load set to obtain the situation prevents utilizing the full travel.
proper race sag, the rear suspension should
sag 0.4 to 1.0 in (10 to 25 mm). Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension
If the rear of your CRF sags less than 0.4 in system may bottom slightly every few minutes at
(10 mm) from its own weight, the spring is full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this
too stiff for your weight. It is not compressed occasional bottoming may cost more in overall
enough, even though you have the proper race suspension performance than it is worth.
sag adjustment. As a result, the rear
suspension will not extend as far as it should. A spring that is too stiff for your weight will not
allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
Spring Rates and will pass more bumps on to you.
If you are lighter or heavier than the average
rider and cannot set the proper ride height
without altering the correct spring pre-load,
consider an aftermarket shock absorber spring.

A spring that is too soft for your weight forces


you to add excessive spring pre-load to get the
right race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the
motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear
wheel to unload too much in the air and top out
as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out
from light braking, or kick sideways over lips
and square-edged terrain. It may even top-out
when you dismount your CRF.

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Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions


Soft Surface
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud,
consider increasing compression damping front
and rear.

Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping


to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps
are usually larger, there’s more distance between
them, giving the shock more time to recover.

You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension


for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and
improve straight-line stability.

In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs


front and rear may help, especially if you are
heavier than the average rider. Your CRF may be
undersprung because of the added weight of the
clinging mud. This additional weight may
compress the suspension too much and affect
traction.

Hard Surface
For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you
can probably run the same spring as normal, but
run softer damping both ways-compression and
rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the
wheel will follow the rough ground and small
bumps much better, and you will hook up better.
With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns
very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground
quickly enough after each bump. The result is a
loss of traction and slower lap times.

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Suspension Adjustment Guidelines


Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 96 – 113. Remember to make all adjustments in
one-click increments. Test ride after each adjustment.

Front Suspension Adjustment


Adjustments for Type of Track

Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.

Sand track Adjust to a stiffer position.


Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position.
– Install the optional stiff spring. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a stiffer position at
this time.)

Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Install the optional stiff spring.

Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping

Symptom Action
Soft Initial travel too soft: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
suspension • Steering is too quick. – Test stiffer rebound damping in one-click increments.
• Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line.

Middle travel too soft: If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel:


• Front end dives when cornering. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment:
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.

Final travel too soft: If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
• Bottoms on landings. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
• Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps. If initial and middle travel are stiff:
– Install the optional stiff spring.
If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring:
– Increase the fork oil level in increments of 0.2 oz (5 cc).

Entire travel too soft: – Install the optional stiff spring.


• Front end shakes. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
• Fork bottoms over any type of terrain. – Increase rebound damping in one-click increments.

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Suspension Adjustment Guidelines


Symptom Action
Stiff Initial travel too stiff: – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
suspension • Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line. – Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in one-click increments.
• Stiff on small cornering bumps. – Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination.
• Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line. If the front end dives while cornering, reduce the rebound damping in one click
increments. If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring.
If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff over the full range of travel:
test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired compression damping for initial travel is obtained.

Middle travel too stiff: If initial travel isn’t stiff:


• Stiff on bumps when cornering. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
• Front end wanders when cornering. should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
• Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps. If initial and middle travel is stiff:
• While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff. – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
– Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.

Final travel too stiff: If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff:
• Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This
• Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps. should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.)
• Stiff on large bumps when cornering. If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or
If initial and middle travel becomes stiff:
– Install the optional soft spring.
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment:
– Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the
desired initial travel compression damping is obtained.
– Lower the oil level by 0.2 oz (5 cc).

Entire travel too stiff: – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments.
• Stiff suspension on any type of terrain. – Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments.
– Lower the oil level by 0.2 oz (5 cc).

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Suspension Adjustment Guidelines


Rear Suspension Adjustment
Adjustments for Type of Track

Hard-surfaced track Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below.

Sand track Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring pre-load).
Example: – Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting.
– Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).

Mud track Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight.
Example: – Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings.
– Install the optional stiff spring.
– Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm).

Symptoms and Adjustment


• Always begin with the standard settings.
• Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/6 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or
more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment.
• If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until
the correct settings are obtained as described.

Symptom Action

Stiff suspension Suspension feels stiff on small 1. Test softer low speed compression adjustment.
bumps 2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.

Suspension feels stiff on large 1. Test softer high speed compression adjustment.
bumps 2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously.

Entire travel too stiff 1. Test softer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment simultaneously.
2. If it still feels stiff, replace the spring with a softer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to
softer settings.

Soft suspension Entire travel too soft 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments simultaneously.
2. If it still feels soft, replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to
stiffer setting.

Rear end sways 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment to stiffer settings
simultaneously.

Suspension bottoms Suspension bottoms at landing 1. Test stiffer high speed compression adjustment.
after jumping 2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a
stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.

Suspension bottoms after landing 1. Test stiffer low speed compression adjustment.
2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a
stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.

Suspension bottoms after end of 1. Test softer rebound dumping adjustment.


continuous bumps 2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and softer rebound damping
adjustment, and replace the spring with a stiffer spring (optional) if necessary.

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


The carburetor on your CRF should perform Hot Start Circuit
suitably with the standard recommended settings Carburetor Components A lean mixture must be delivered to the cylinder
under average load, climatic, and barometric when a hot engine is being started. When the hot
conditions. However, to fine tune the engine’s Cold Start Circuit start lever is pulled back, the hot start valve (1)
power output, the carburetor may require A very rich mixture must be delivered to the opens, allowing air to be supplied to the main
adjustments for specific competition needs. cylinder when a cold engine is being started. bore (2) through the hot start air passage (3). This
When the choke knob (1) is pulled out, fuel is extra air enters the air-fuel mixture from the slow
Optional main jets, slow jets and leak jets are metered by the starter jet (2) and is mixed with circuit resulting in a lean condition.
available for your CRF. See your Honda dealer. air from the air passage (3) (located above the
throttle valve (4)) to provide a rich mixture for
Any engine or air cleaner modifications or the starting. The mixture discharges through the (1)
use of an aftermarket exhaust system may require orifice (5) into the cylinder.
jetting changes.
(3)
(1) (3)

(2)
(5) (1) hot start valve
(4) (2) main bore
(3) hot start air passage

(2)
(1) choke knob (4) throttle valve
(2) starter jet (5) orifice
(3) air passage

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Accelerator Pump Circuit Slow Circuit Main Circuit
The accelerator pump circuit operates when the Fuel is metered by the slow jet (1) and mixed Fuel is metered by the main jet (1), jet needle (2)
throttle is opened. As the throttle valve (1) opens, with air from the air passage (2). The mixture and needle jet (3). It is then mixed with air
the pump rod (2) depresses the diaphragm (3). At enters the venturi through the bypass (3) and coming from the air jet (4) and enters the venturi
this time, the inlet check valve (4) is shut pilot outlet (4) that has been metered by the pilot past the needle jet.
resulting in a sharp increase in pressure in the screw (5).
pump chamber (5). The outlet check valve (6) Baffle Plate
then opens, supplying fuel to the main bore via The baffle plate (5) prevents foaming of fuel or
the accelerator nozzle (7). Leak jet (8) operation abnormal fuel level around the main jet.
is related to both the length of time before the
fuel starts flowing after the opening of the Float Bowl
throttle (time lag) and the flow amount. (3) The float (6) and float valve (7) operate to
maintain a constant level of fuel in the float
bowl.

(4)

(1) (2)
(2)
(4)
(7) (5)
(1)
(6)
(1) slow jet (4) pilot outlet
(2) (3) (2) air passage (5) pilot screw
(8) (3) bypass

(7)

(5)
(6)
(4) (3)
(5)
(1)
(1) throttle valve (5) pump chamber
(2) pump rod (6) outlet check valve
(3) diaphragm (7) accelerator nozzle
(4) inlet check valve (8) leak jet (1) main jet (5) baffle plate
(2) jet needle (6) float
(3) needle jet (7) float valve
(4) air jet

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Jet Needle Leak jet
Carburetor Circuit Functions The jet needle controls fuel/air mixture over fully The smaller the number, the smaller the jet bore
closed to 3/4 throttle. The straight section (1) diameter. This controls the amount of fuel
The carburetor has several major circuits, each affects throttle response at smaller throttle returned to the float chamber under pressure,
providing the fuel/air mixture over a given openings. By changing the position of the clip there fore the flow amount is incleased or
portion of throttle valve opening. (2) in its groove, you can improve acceleration at decreased. With a small jet, pressure is raised
medium low and medium speed. faster and the elapsed time before the fuel starts
These major circuits overlap as shown below. flowing is shorten.

Carburetor Removal
1st (2)
2nd
1. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3rd
2. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
4th loosening the drain screw (1).
(1)
5th
WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or
(1) straght section (2) clip seriously injured when handling fuel.

Slow Jet and Pilot Screw • Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
The slow jet and pilot screw affects fuel/air ratio and flame away.
over fully closed to 1/4 throttle. • Handle fuel only outdoors.
Adjust the pilot screw to obtain the best off-idle • Wipe up spills immediately.
performance.
• If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a corner,
Main jet turn the pilot screw clockwise to lean the
The main jet affects fuel/air ratio from half (1/2) mixture.
to full throttle (4/4). The size should be reduced • If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
at higher altitudes. turn the pilot screw counterclockwise to
richen the mixture.
Honda carburetor jet sizes are numbered in
increments of 2 or 3. When changing the main jet The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
size, increase or decrease it gradually until the adjustment is 1 1/4 to 2 turns out from the lightly
desired jetting is obtained. Because Honda jet seated position.
size numbers do not correspond with other If you exceed 2 turns out, the next larger slow jet (1)
carburetor manufacturer’s jet size numbers, use is needed.
only Honda jets. If you are under 1 1/4 turns out, the next smaller (1) drain screw
slow jet is needed.
3. Tighten the drain screw. (cont’d)

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


4. Remove the fuel tank (page 30). 10. Remove the hot start cable holder (6). 12. Loosen the throttle cable lock nut (9), adjuster
5. Remove the subframe (page 32). (10), throttle cable bolt (11) and disconnect
6. Remove the fuel hose (2) from the fuel hose the throttle cables (12) from the throttle drum
guide (3). (13).
(6)
7. Loosen the insulator band screw (4).
(9)
(10)

(2)
(13)

(4)

(11)
(6) hot start cable holder
(12)
(3) 11. Remove the throttle drum cover bolt (7) and
throttle drum cover (8).
(9) throttle cable lock nut (12) throttle cables
(2) fuel hose (10) adjuster (13) throttle drum
(3) fuel hose guide (11) throttle cable bolt
(4) insulator band screw
(7)
8. Disconnect the throttle position sensor
connector (5).
9. Remove the carburetor.

(5)

(8)

(7) throttle drum cover bolt


(8) throttle drum cover

(5) throttle position sensor connector

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


3. Remove the link arm set torx screw (6). When installing the floating valve (8) onto the
Carburetor Disassembly When installing the link arm set torx screw, throttle valve (5) make sure the floating
apply a locking agent to the link arm set torx valve’s flat side faces out and the hole (9)
1. Remove the carbretor top cover bolts (1) screw threads. faces down.
clamp (2) and carburetor top cover (3). 4. Remove the throttle valve (5), throttle valve
roller (7) and floating valve (8). (5)
(2)
(1)

(5)
(8)

(9)

(3)
(6)

(1) carburetor top cover bolts


(2) clamp (5) throttle valve
(3) carburetor top cover (8) floating valve
(8) (9) hole
2. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (4)
from the throttle valve (5).
(4)

(5)
(7)

(5) throttle valve (7) throttle valve roller


(5) (6) link arm set torx screw (8) floating valve

(4) jet needle/holder assembly


(5) throttle valve

(cont’d)

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


5. Remove the accelerator pump cover screws 7. Remove the holder screw (17), throttle stop 9. Measure the float level (24) with the float
(10) and accelerator pump cover (11). screw holder (18), float bowl screws (19), level gauge (25) while the float tab is just
tube guides (20) and float bowl (16). contacting the float valve with the carburetor
(10) intake (26) is facing up. The float level should
(17) be 0.24 in (6.0 mm).
(19) (18)
If the float level is out of specification, adjust
it by bending the float tab carefully.
(16) (26)

(24)

(11)
(20)
(10) accelerator pump cover screws
(11) accelerator pump cover (16) float bowl
(17) holder screw
6. Remove the U-ring (12), O-ring (13), spring (18) throttle stop screw holder
(19) float bowl screws (25)
(14) and diaphragm (15).
(20) tube guides
Clean the diaphragm. (24) float level
When installing the U-ring into the accelerator (25) float level gauge
pump cover (11) make sure the U-ring flatside 8. Remove the pump rod (21). (26) carburetor intake
faces the accelerator pump cover, away from Clean the pump rod and rod passage (22).
the float bowl (16). Install the pump rod into the link lever (23). 10. Remove the leak jet (27) from the float bowl
Push the rod forcibly into the link lever until (16).
(12) it snaps into place. Clean the leak jet.
(16)
(13)
(23) (27)
(22)
(16)

(21) (21)

(12)
(14)

(15) (11)

(11) accelerator pump cover (14) spring


(12) U-ring (15) diaphragm (23)
(13) O-ring (16) float bowl (21) pump rod (23) link lever (16) float bowl (27) leak jet
(22) rod passage

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Carburetor Assembly

To assemble, reverse the disassembly procedures.


To install the carburetor, reverse the removal
procedures.
(4)
Tighten the following parts to the specified (4)
torque.
float bowl screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m) (2)
(1)
accelerator pump cover screws:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
carburetor top cover bolts: (5)
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
jet needle/holder assembly:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
rink arm set torx screw: (3)
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m)
throttle drum cover bolt:
2.5 lbf·ft (3.4 N·m, 0.3 kgf·m)
hot start cable nut:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2 kgf·m) (1) throttle cables
throttle cable lock nut: (2) hot start cable
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m) (3) throttle position sensor connector
throttle cable bolt:
3.0 lbf·ft (4 N·m, 0.4 kgf·m)

• After installing the carburetor, adjust the


throttle cable (1) freeplay and hot start cable
(2) freeplay.
• After installing the carburetor, check the
throttle position sensor connector (3) for
correct routing.
• After installing the carburetor, check the air
vent hoses (4) and overflow hose (5) for
kinking or pinching and correct routing. (4) (5)

(4)

(4) air vent hoses


(5) overflow hose

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Standard Tuning Recommendations

For the following recommendations to be


accurate, you must use the standard settings as a
baseline. Also, don’t change any of the settings
until you’ve determined what changes are
necessary.
Adjustment Standard settings
Pilot screw opening 1 3/4 turns out
Slow jet #42
Jet needle NJYR
Needle clip position 3rd groove
Main jet #178
Float level 0.24 in (6.0 mm)
Identification number FCR00F

Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature

All jetting recommendations are based on


standard jetting with an unmodified engine. The
following conditions can affect the fuel mixture.

Condition Mixture will be: Adjust to:

cold temperature lean richer

warm temperature rich leaner

dry air lean richer

high humidity rich leaner

high altitude rich leaner

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Once you’ve adjusted the carburetor for
Special Tuning Conditions temperature and altitude, it shouldn’t need major Pre-Adjustment Checks
readjustment unless race conditions change
There are some unique atmospheric conditions or drastically. However, there are some unique Before adjusting carburetor settings, check the
situations that may require additional atmospheric conditions or race day situations that following:
adjustments. may require additional adjustments. They are as • air cleaner
follows. • air leaks
It should not be necessary to go more than one • float level
jet size richer or leaner to fine tune your CRF. If To prevent engine damage, always adjust the • clogged carburetor jets
larger jetting changes are necessary, check for air main jet before adjusting the jet needle. Always • spark plug fouling (improper heat range or
leaks, blocked or restricted exhaust or fuel choose the next richer jet if there is any doubt so other cause)
systems, or a dirty air cleaner. there is a margin for safety. • freshness of fuel
• owner modifications (such as exhaust system,
Main Jet • Go richer on the main jet, by one holes in the air cleaner, etc.)
Condition Main Jet Adjustment size, when: the track has a very • ignition timing
long straightaway or uphill section, • compression
long straights next larger
a high percentage of sand, or the
uphill sections track is muddy. If the above check out, then, adjust the carburetor
• Go leaner on the main jet, by one for your specific racing conditions. Engine
sand
size, when: it is very humid or response and appearance of the firing end of a
mud raining, or it is hotter than 113 spark plug are highly indicative of the engine
degrees F. condition.
high humidity next smaller

raining After using the chart, and making any Refer to the list on page 148 for the optional
adjustments for special conditions, it shouldn’t be carburetor parts.
hotter than 113 °F (45 °C)
necessary to go more than one jet size richer or
leaner to fine tune your CRF. If larger jetting To prevent engine damage, always adjust the
changes are necessary, check for worn crankshaft main jet before adjusting the jet needle. If there
seals, air leaks, blocked or restricted exhaust or is any doubt — always choose the next richer jet
fuel systems, or a dirty air cleaner. so there is a margin for safety.

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Carburetor Minor Adjustments WARNING
Gasoline is highly flammable and
The standard carburetor settings are ideal for the explosive. You can be burned or
following conditions: sea level altitude, and 68°F seriously injured when handling fuel.
(20°C ) air temperature. If your conditions are
different, you may need to adjust the carburetor • Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks
settings, using the tuning information on pages and flame away.
124 and 125. Confirm your settings are correct • Handle fuel only outdoors.
(1)
before proceeding. • Wipe up spills immediately.

Minor Adjustments
4. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
1. Adjust the carburetor setting using the tuning
5. Drain the remaining fuel in the float bowl by
information on pages 124 and 125.
loosening the drain screw (2) and disconnect
2. When the engine is warm enough to run
the fuel line from the fuel valve.
without the choke, push the choke knob in to (1)
6. Loosen the connecting and insulator band
its off position.
screws. Rotate the carburetor. Remove the
3. Adjust the pilot screw (1) to obtain the best
float bowl plug (3).
off-idle performance.
Make sure the float bowl plug O-ring (4) is in
– If the engine blubbers (rich) exiting a
good condition, and replace it if necessary.
corner, turn the pilot screw clockwise to
lean the mixture.
– If the engine surges (lean) exiting a corner,
turn the pilot screw counter clockwise to (2)
richen the mixture.
(1) pilot screw
The minimum to maximum range of pilot screw
adjustments is 1 1/4 to 2 turns out from the Adjustment Procedure
lightly seated position. If you exceed 2 turns out, 1. Warm up the engine. (3)
the next larger slow jet is needed. If you are 2. Make two or three laps of a course with the
under 1 1/4 turn out, the next smaller slow jet is standard setting or corrected jetting (page
(4)
needed. 124). and spark plug. Note engine
acceleration and other engine conditions in
relation to throttle opening. Verify
(2) drain screw (4) O-ring
carburetion by removing the spark plug and (3) float bowl plug
reading its firing end (page 128). It may take
more than two or three laps to get a good
spark plug reading with a new spark plug.
3. Change carburetor settings or select suitable
carburetor jets, taking into consideration the
engine conditions and factors for temperature
and altitude (page 124).

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


7. Change the main jet (4) and slow jet (5) as 10. Remove the fuel tank (page 30). 14. Change the clip position of jet needle or jet
required. 11. Remove the carburetor top cover bolts (9), needle as required.
clamp (10) and carburetor top cover (11). 15. Reinstall the jet needle/holder assembly,
12. Remove the jet needle/holder assembly (12). carburetor top, clamp and carburetor top
(4) cover.
(11) (10) 16. Tighten the carburetor top cover bolts to the
(12) specified torque:
1.5 lbf·ft (2.1 N·m, 0.2kgf·m)
17. Install the fuel tank (page 31).
18. Start the engine.
If the engine idle speed is too high or too low
or engine is not idling, adjust the engine idle
speed (page 48).
(5) 19. Repeat steps 4 – 17 until the engine gives
(9)
maximum power with the correct spark plug
reading. It is always better to jet a little rich
(4) main jet (5) slow jet
than a little lean. It is advisable to record the
(9) carburetor top cover bolts settings, course conditions, lap times, and
8. Reinstall the float bowl plug. (10) clamp
(11) carburetor top cover climatic and barometric conditions for future
9. Rotate the carburetor and align the lugs (6) on
(12) jet needle/holder assembly reference.
the carburetor with the slots (7) on the
insulator and connecting tube.
13. Remove the clip (13) and jet needle (14)
Tighten the connecting tube and insulator
from the jet needle holder (15).
band screws (8).

(6) (14)

(15)
(13)
(8)

(8)

(7)

(13) clip
(6) lugs (8) screws (14) jet needle
(7) slots (15) jet needle holder

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Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips


Spark Plug Reading NOTICE NOTICE
Using spark plugs with an improper heat range An improperly tightened spark plug can damage
Refer to Spark Plug on page 54. or incorrect reach can cause engine damage. the engine. If a plug is too loose, a piston may
be damaged. If a plug is too tight, the threads
Check any jetting change by reading the spark Before removing the spark plug, clean the spark may be damaged.
plug. The following procedure is recommended. plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from
You may not get an accurate reading if you entering the cylinder.
simply turn off the engine and pull the plug for
inspection. Ride for 10 – 15 minutes before taking a plug (2)
reading. A new plug will not color immediately.
(3)
Use a new spark plug. Inspect the plug before
installing it. To obtain an accurate reading of a new spark
plug: (1)
1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight.
2. Push the engine stop button and pull the (1) insulator (3) side electrode
clutch lever in to release the clutch. (2) center electrode
3. Coast to a stop.
4. Remove the spark plug. Spark Plug Coloring Guidelines
5. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the Condition Spark Plug Appearance Mixture
center electrode (2) should appear clean and Normal Dark brown to light tan correct
colorless with a gray ring around the center color with dry electrode
electrode where it exits the porcelain.
Metallic specks indicate lean jetting that is Overheating Light gray or white color lean
(Lean)
removing metal from the piston. Black sooty
streaks on the porcelain indicate rich jetting. Wet Wet or sooty rich
(Rich)

Remember that in addition to improper jetting:


• A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in
the inlet tract or exhaust system, the passage
of too much air because of the use of the
wrong air cleaner, use of a less-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, or a hole or holes
(deliberate or uninterna) in the air cleaner
housing.
• A rich condition can be caused by a plugged
or dirty air cleaner, use of a more-restrictive
aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged spark
arrester, or excessive oil on the air cleaner.
Excessive smoking will occur.

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Chassis Adjustments
The following suggestions may improve a
specific concern. Subtle changes in overall Fork Height/Angle Wheelbase
handling may also be noted.
The position of the fork tubes in the clamps is Adjusting your CRF’s wheelbase can offer subtle
adjustable. changes in overall handling. You may adjust
Rear End wheelbase by adding or removing links on the
Standard Position drive chain. If you change the wheelbase, be
If you have a problem with rear wheel traction, The standard position (1) align the top of the sure to re-check race sag and adjust, if necessary.
raise the rear end of your CRF by increasing the outer tube (2) (not the top of the fork cap) with
rear spring pre-load. Instead of running 3.9 in the top of the upper fork clamp (3). In the past, a general rule was lengthen the
(100 mm) of sag, you can run 3.5 in (90 mm) so (1) standard position wheelbase to add straight line stability, shorten
the rear of the bike will sit a little higher. This (2) 0 in (0 mm) the wheelbase to improve turning. However, we
should produce more traction because of the (1) (2) top of outer tube suggest you do not lengthen the wheelbase of
change to the swingarm and the location of your (3) upper fork clamp your CRF unless you are racing on a track with
CRF’s center of gravity. more fast sections than normal.

If you have a problem with the steering head As a general recommendation, keep the
shaking when you use the front brake hard or if (3) wheelbase as short as possible. This positions
your CRF wants to turn too quickly, lower the the wheels closer together, improves turning
rear of the motorcycle by reducing the rear spring response, increases weighting (traction) on the
pre-load. This will increase fork rake and trail rear wheel, and lightens weighting on the front
and should improve stability in a straight line. wheel.
The effective suspension travel will be
transferred toward the firmer end of wheel travel. With your CRF, you will probably find that the
standard setting or a shorter wheelbase will offer
Keep the race sag adjustment (page 111) in the more overall benefits.
3.5 – 4.3 in (90 – 110 mm) range.

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Gearing
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the Lower Gearing (more rear sprocket teeth) A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
standard engine to suit track conditions by • decrease top speed in each gear where you want to keep the front end light so it
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a • increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear can float from the peak of one sand whoop to the
different portion of the engine’s power range at a ratios) next. Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide • increases engine rpm at a given throttle to maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
the change you are looking for without the need setting or ground speed (which may provide wheel traction and a light front end) because you
to consider further modifications. more power-to-the-ground on good traction remain in the powerband longer in each gear.
surfaces) The higher gearing allows you to steer more
The portion of your engine’s power range you efficiently with throttle control and body English.
use can be adjusted by changing the final drive However:
ratio with different sized rear sprockets. Gearing • spacing between gears may be too narrow If you are riding a track with sections where you
changes allow you to more closely match the • engine rpm may be too high choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
type of terrain and the available traction. than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the rear Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
sprocket will be sufficient. first race, then lightly or not at all during the day. Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
This results in a track surface that is slippery one section of the track to gain a better overall
There is a choice of both higher and lower final during the first few races, then changes from time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time,
drive ratios with two optional driven sprockets. good to great and back to good and possibly ends even if the cost is some sections where the
Like the optional springs, these sprockets are the day with a slick rock-hard consistency. gearing feels wrong.
listed in the Optional Parts List section of this Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit
manual (page 148). all these conditions. If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
Unless you have the required mechanical • Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a (before and after the change) to get an accurate
knowhow, tools, and an official Honda Service higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm appraisal of the change. “Seat-of-the-pants”
Manual, sprocket changing should be done by down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating wheelspin
your Honda dealer. engine may bog in certain corners so you’ll with a gearing change can make you feel like
need to slip the clutch to compensate; you’re going slower when, in reality, you’ve
Higher Gearing (less driven sprocket teeth) downshifting may be too drastic a change in decreased your time by increasing your speed
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the speed. with better traction.
engine will pull the higher gearing) • Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear • Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use These gearing recommendations should be
ratios) lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting rpm high where the engine produces the most style, and the track.
or ground speed (which may allow better rear power. This may require an extra upshift on
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain) certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
• the spacing between gears may be too wide having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
• engine rpm may be too low fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.

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Tire Selection for Track Conditions


Choosing the correct tire tread pattern and rubber If you choose a tire with a sticky compound for
compound can affect your placing in competition. added traction, remember that it may transfer
The tires on your CRF offer a “happy medium” additional loads to the transmission because it
for the variety of soil conditions the majority of grips so well, especially when riding in situations
riders are likely to encounter. that normally place unusual demands on the
transmission.
Experienced competitors often switch to tires
developed for specific terrain conditions. If you Complete consumer information can be obtained
do switch, stay with the factory recommended from the various tire manufacturer
sizes. Other tires may affect handling or representatives and dealers.
acceleration.
Some general recommendations for specific
Be aware that tire sizes (width and aspect ratio) terrain follow:
do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer or
even among tires made by the same Hard, Slick Soil
manufacturer. Variations in tires, especially the Use tires with many relatively short knobs that
sidewall profile, can change the attitude of your are close together in order to obtain the largest
CRF and its handling. Tire variations that raise possible contact patch on the surface. The rubber
or lower the rear of your CRF have a more compound needs to be softer for hard ground in
significant effect on handling than variations in order to hook up, but not so soft that the knobs
front tires which, generally, don’t vary as much. roll over easily and affect holding a straight line.
Often, you can see or feel the change in tire size. These tires tend to wear more quickly than
Another way to check is to measure the rolling standard tires because of the combination of soft
circumference of the old and new tires. A higher rubber and hard terrain.
profile tire will have a larger rolling
circumference. Muddy Soil
Use a more open tread pattern to avoid clogging.
If you do switch to tires designed for special For these conditions, the relatively long knobs
terrain use, remember they will be less will probably be made from a harder rubber
acceptable in other circumstances. For example, compound to reduce any tendency to bend back
an aggressive mud tire will give excellent grip on under acceleration or wear quickly.
wet, loamy terrain, but less impressive grip on a
hard surface. Loose, Sandy Soil
Use a tire that is similar in construction to those
needed for tacky soil and mud, but with a few
more knobs.

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Personal Fit Adjustments


The following suggestions may make your ride • Position the shift lever and rear brake pedal so • Handlebar width can be trimmed with a
both more comfortable and more responsive to they are close to your boot for rapid access, hacksaw to better suit your particular shoulder
your control input. but not so close that either is depressed when width and riding preference. Think this
sitting or standing comfortably on your CRF. through carefully and cut off just a small
amount at a time from both sides equally. It is
Control Positioning obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
• Position the control levers so that you can use
them comfortably when seated and standing.
• Adjust the mounting bolt torque of the clutch
and front brake lever assemblies so that they
can rotate on the handlebar in a fall. If an
assembly does not rotate, it may bend or
break a control lever. Make sure that the
bolts are torqued securely enough to prevent
slippage during normal operation.

Apply Pro Honda Hondalock or an equivalent to Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
the threads of these bolts prior to adjustment to
help ensure the correct torque is retained. • Position the handlebar so that both gripping
Tighten the top bolts first. • Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
the bar and operating the controls is
irregularities or roughness after sawing the
comfortable while both seated and standing,
handlebar.
while riding straight ahead and turning.
• An alternate handlebar shape, through varying
Tighten the forward bolts first.
rise or rearward sweep dimensions, will
• The handlebar position may be moved
provide further adjustment to riding position
forward either 3 mm (using optional
and may better suit your particular body size
handlebar lower holders) or 6 mm (by rotating
or riding style. Each of the ergonomic
the standard holders 180 degrees). Refer to
dimensions of the machine were determined
the Service Manual for installation
(1) to suit the greatest possible number of riders
(1) instructions. Be sure to check control cable
based on an average size rider.
and wiring harness routing after the
adjustment.

(1) control lever mounting bolts

As an alternative, consider wrapping the


handlebar area under the control assemblies with
teflon tape. Then tighten the assemblies to their
normal torque. Upon impact, the fully-tightened
assemblies should rotate on the Teflon tape.

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Tips
Here’s helpful advice on how to transport and
store your Honda, as well as three
troubleshooting flow charts.

Transporting Your Motorcycle .........................134


Storing Your Honda..........................................135
Preparation for Storage ................................135
Removal from Storage.................................135
You & the Environment ...................................136
Troubleshooting................................................137

Tips 133
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Transporting Your Motorcycle


If you use a truck or motorcycle trailer to To secure your CRF, brace the front wheel
transport your Honda, we recommend that against the front of the truck bed or trailer rail.
you follow these guidelines: Attach the lower ends of two straps to the tie-down
• Use a loading ramp. hooks on your vehicle. Attach the upper ends of
• Make sure the fuel valve is off. the straps to the handlebar (one on the right side,
• Secure the motorcycle in an upright position, the other on the left), close to the fork.
using motorcycle tie-down straps. Avoid
using rope, which can loosen and allow the Check that the tie-down straps do not contact any
motorcycle to fall over. control cables or electrical wiring.

Tighten both straps until the front suspension is


compressed about half-way. Too much pressure
is unnecessary and could damage the fork seals.

Use another tie-down strap to keep the rear of the


motorcycle from moving.

We recommend that you do not transport your


CRF on its side. This can damage the
motorcycle, and leaking gasoline could be a
hazard.

134 Tips
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Storing Your Honda


If you won’t be riding for an extended period, 6. Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain bolt
such as during the winter, thoroughly inspect (3) at the water pump (4) to drain coolant. Removal from Storage
your Honda and correct any problem before After the coolant has been completely
storing it. That way, needed repairs won’t be drained, reinstall the drain bolt with a new 1. Uncover and clean your CRF.
forgotten and it will be easier to get your CRF sealing washer and radiator cap. Change the engine and transmission oil if
running again. more than 4 months have passed since the
(2)
start of storage.
To reduce or prevent deterioration that can occur (4)
2. Uncover the end of the muffler and remove
during storage, also follow the following the rag from the muffler outlet.
procedures. 3. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel
(page 34).
4. Pour a fresh recommended coolant mixture
Preparation for Storage (page 41) slowly into the radiator filler hole
up to the filler neck.
1. Completely clean all parts of your CRF. If Capacity:
your CRF has been exposed to sea air or salt (3)
1.18 US qt (1.12R)
water, wash it down with fresh water and (1) at disassembly
wipe dry. (1) bolt (3) coolant drain bolt 1.09 US qt (1.03R)
2. Change the engine oil and filter (page 37). (2) right engine guard (4) water pump at draining
3. Change the transmission oil (page 40).
4. Drain the fuel tank and carburetor into an 7. Lubricate the drive chain. Lean your CRF slightly right and left several
approved gasoline container. 8. Inflate the tires to their recommended times to bleed trapped air in the cooling
Turn the fuel valve OFF and loosen the drain pressures. system.
screw. Drain gasoline into an approved 9. Place your CRF on the optional Honda If the coolant level lowers, add coolant and
container. Retighten the drain screw. workstand or equivalent to raise both tires off repeat the above procedure.
the ground. Install the radiator cap securely.
WARNING 10. Stuff a rag into the silencer outlet. Then tie a
plastic bag over the end of the silencer to 5. Perform all maintenance checks (page 9).
Gasoline is highly flammable and
explosive. You can be burned or prevent moisture from entering.
seriously injured when handling fuel. 11. Store your CRF in an unheated area, free of
dampness, away from sunlight, with a
• Stop the engine and keep heat, sparks minimum of daily temperature variation.
and flame away. 12. Cover your CRF with a porous material.
• Handle fuel only outdoors. Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing,
• Wipe up spills immediately. coated materials that restrict air flow and
allow heat and moisture to accumulate.
5. Remove the bolt (1) and right engine guard (2).

Tips 135
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You & the Environment


Owning and riding a motorcycle can be NOTICE
enjoyable, but you must do your part to protect
nature. When you show respect for the land, Improper disposal of drained fluids is harmful to
wildlife, and other people, you also help preserve the environment.
the sport of off-road riding.

Following are tips on how you can be an


environmentally-responsible motorcycle owner.

• Choose Sensible Cleaners. Use a


biodegradable detergent when you wash your
CRF. Avoid aerosol spray cleaners that
contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) which
damage the atmosphere’s protective ozone
layer. Don’t throw cleaning solvents away;
see the following guidelines for proper
disposal.

• Recycle Wastes. It’s illegal and thoughtless to


put used engine oil in the trash, down a drain,
or on the ground. Used oil, gasoline, and
cleaning solvents contain poisons that can hurt
refuse workers and contaminate our drinking
water, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Before changing your oil, make sure you have
the proper containers. Put oil and other toxic
wastes in separate sealed containers and take
them to a recycling center. Call your local or
state office of public works or environmental
services to find a recycling center in your area
and get instructions on how to dispose of non
recyclable wastes.

136 Tips
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Troubleshooting
The items that are serviceable using this Manual POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW AND UNSTABLE POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
are followed by the page number reference in IDLE SPEED CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES
parenthesis. The items that require use of the CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES 1. Disconnect fuel FUEL FLOW • Lack of fuel in tank
Honda Service Manual are followed by an 1. Check if air INCORRECT • Over-oiled air cleaner. line at carburetor RESTRICTED (P.34)
and check for • Clogged fuel line
asterisk. cleaner is over-
clogging (P.34) (P.34)
oiled (P.44) • Clogged fuel fill
ENGINE DOES NOT START OR IS HAND TO START UNRESTRICTED
CORRECT cap breather tube
FUEL FLOW
(P.34)
CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES • Clogged fuel valve
1. Check the fuel NOT REACHING • No fuel in fuel tank (P.34)
2. Check if the insulator LEAKING • Loose insulator clamp
flow to carburetor CARBURETOR • Clogged fuel tube or • Clogged fuel filter
is leaking • Damaged insulator
fuel strainer screen (P.35)
REACHING (p.34) NOT LEAKING
CARBURETOR • Sticking float valve* 2. Remove air • Not cleaned
DIRTY
• Clogged fuel fill cap cleaner (P.43) frequently enough
breather tube (p.34) (P.43)
3. Check carburetor INCORRECT • Fuel-air mixture too AIR CLEANER
pilot screw lean (Turn the pilot NOT DIRTY
2. Try spark test* WEAK OR NO • Faulty spark plug (p.54)
• Fouled spark plug (p.54) adjustment (P.126) screw out) (P.126)
SPARK
GOOD SPARK • Faulty ignition control • Fuel-air mixture too rich
CORRECT (Turn the pilot screw in) 3. Install a larger CONDITION • Jet size wrong, rejet
module*
(P.126) carburetor main WORSE in the opposite
• Broken or shorted spark
jet (P.124) direction (P.126)
plug wire
• Faulty exciter coil CORRECT
• Broken or shorted ignition 4. Check carburetor CLOGGED • Contaminants in the
coil jets and accelerator fuel
• Faulty engine stop button pump for clogs • Not cleaned frequently 4. Check carbureator CLOGGED • Contaminants in
• Loose or disconnected enough (P.121) jets for clogging
NOT CLOGGED the fuel
ignition system wires
NOT CLOGGED
• Faulty ignition pulse
generator* 5. Try spark test WAKE OR • Faulty, carbon or wet
INTERMITTENT fouled spark pulg (P.128) 5. Check valve INCORRECT • Cam sprocket not
3. Test cylinder LOW • Valve stuck open GOOD SPARK • Faulty ignition control
SPARK timing installed properly
compression* • Worn cylinder and piston module*
ring* • Faulty alternator* CORRECT
CORRECT • Leaking/damaged • Faulty ignition coil*
cylinder head gasket • Broken or shorted
• Improper valve timing* spark plug wire. 6. Try spark test WEAK OR • Faulty, carbon or wet
• Seized valve • Faulty ignition pulse INTERMITTENT fouled spark pulg
GOOD SPARK (P.128)
generator*. SPARK
4. Start by following ENGINE STARTS • Improper choke operation • Loose or disconnected • Faulty ignition control
normal starting BUT SOON • Pilot screw incorrectly ignition system wires module*
procedure STOPS adjusted* • Faulty engine stop button • Faulty alternator*
• Insulator leaking • Faulty ignition coil*
ENGINE DOES • Improper ignition timing • Broken or shorted
6. Check the throttle INCORRECT • Faulty throttle position
NOT FIRE (Faulty ignition coil or position sensor* sensor* spark plug wire.
ignition pulse generator)* • Faulty ignition pulse
• Fuel contaminated CORRECT generator*.
• Improper hot start • Loose or disconnected
operation (p. 53) ignition system wires
7. Test cylinder LOW • Ring worn • Faulty engine stop button
5. Removed and WET PLUG • Carburetor flooded compression. • Cylinder worn or
inspect spark plug • Choke closed damaged* 7. Test cylinder LOW • Ring worn
• Throttle valve open CORRECT • Piston worn or compression. • Cylinder worn or
DRY • Air cleaner dirty (p. 43) damaged
damaged*
CORRECT • Piston worn or damaged
• Head gasket not
sealing • Head gasket not sealing
• Valve stick open • Improper valve timing
6. START WITH CHOKE ON
• Valve stick open

Tips 137
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138 Tips
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Technical Information
This section contains dimensions, capacities, and Vehicle Identification .......................................140
other technical data. Specifications ...................................................141
Torque Specifications.......................................142
Oxygenated Fuels.............................................145
Competition Logbook ......................................146
Optional Parts List ...........................................148
Spare Parts & Equipment.................................149
Wiring Diagram................................................150

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Vehicle Identification
The engine number (2) is stamped on the left
Serial Numbers crankcase.

The VIN and engine serial numbers are required


when you register your CRF. They may also be
required when ordering replacement parts. You
may record these numbers in the Quick
Reference section at the rear of this manual.

The VIN (vehicle identification number) (1) is


stamped on the right side of the streering head.
(2)

(2) engine number

(1)

(1) VIN

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Specifications
Item English Metric Item English Metric Item English Metric
Dimension Engine Drive train
Overall length 86.3 in 2,191 mm Type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke Clutch type Wet, multi-plate type
Overall width 32.5 in 825 mm Single 8˚ inclined from Transmission 5-speed, constant mesh
Cylinder arrangement
Overall height 49.7 in 1,262 mm vertical Primary reduction 2.739
Wheelbase 58.9 in 1,495 mm Bore and stroke 3.78 x 2.44 in 96.0 x 62.1 Gear ratio I 1.800
mm
Seat height 37.6 in 955 mm Gear ratio II 1.470
Displacement 27.41 cu-in 449.4 cm3
Footpeg height 17.0 in 432 mm Gear ratio III 1.235
Compression ratio 12.0 : 1
Ground clearance 13.3 in 339 mm Gear ratio IV 1.050
Valve clearance Intake: 0.006 ± 0.001 in
Frame (cold) (0.16 ± 0.03 mm) Gear ratio V 0.909
Exhaust: 0.011 ± 0.001 in
Type Twin tube (0.28 ± 0.03 mm) Final reduction 3.692
Telescopic fork, Left foot-operated return
Engine oil capacity Gear shift pattern
F. suspension travel 11.0 in (280 mm) system 1-N-2-3-4-5
at draining 0.70 US qt 0.66R
stroke 12.4 in (315 mm) Electrical
at draining and
Pro-link, Ignition ICM
R. suspension oil filter change 0.73 US qt 0.69R
travel 12.6 in (320 mm)
at disassembly 0.90 US qt 0.85R Starting system Kickstarter
80/100 – 21 51M
Tire size, front Transmission oil NGK
DUNLOP D742FA Spark plug : IFR8H11
capacity Standard
110/90 – 19 62M at draining 0.62 US qt 0.59R
Tire size, rear DENSO
DUNLOP D756 VK24PRZ11
at disassembly 0.71 US qt 0.67R
Tire type bias-ply, tube type For extended high NGK
Carburetor
IFR9H11
Tire pressure, front (cold) 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2) speed riding
Type Piston valve
Tire pressure, rear (cold) 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0 kgf/cm2) DENSO
Identification number FCR00F VK27PRZ11
Single disc brake
F. brake, swept area Main jet (standard) # 178 Spark plug gap 0.039 – 0.043 in
51.8 in2 (334.5 cm2) (1.0 – 1.1 mm)
Single disc brake Jet needle (standard) NJYR
R. brake, swept area Needle clip position
60.6 in2 (391.1 cm2) 3rd groove
unleaded gasoline, pump (standard)
Fuel recommendation octane number of 91 or Slow jet (standard) # 42
higher Pilot screw opening 1 3/4 turns out
Fuel tank capacity 1.90 US gal 7.2R Float level 0.24 in 6.0 mm
Caster angle 26˚47’ Idle speed 1,700 ± 100 rpm
Trail length 4.30 in 109.3 mm Cooling system
Fork oil capacity Cooling capacity
(except fork damper 13.0 US oz 384 cm3 at draining 1.09 US qt 1.03R
per leg)
at disassembly 1.18 US qt 1.12R

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Torque Specifications
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners ENGINE
Check and tighten nuts, bolts, and fasteners before every outing. Torque
Item Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
Engine
1 Cylinder head cover bolts 7 10 1.0
2 Clutch cover bolts 7 10 1.0
3 Water pump cover bolts 7 10 1.0
(1) 4 Transmission oil check 7 10 1.0
bolt
(8)
5 Crankshaft hole cap 11 15 1.5 NOTE 1
6 Oil filter cover bolts 9 12 1.2
7 Cylinder bolt 7 10 1.0
(7) 8 Cylinder head bolts 7 10 1.0
9 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 15 21 2.1
10 Drive sprocket bolt 23 31 3.2
(10) NOTE: 1. Apply grease to the threads.

(6)

(1)

(9)

(3)
(2) (4) (5)

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Torque Specifications
Frame FRAME
Torque
Item Remarks
(4) lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
(2)
1 Steering stem nut 80 108 11.0
(5) (1) 2 Fork upper pinch bolts 16 22 2.2
3 Fork lower pinch bolts 15 20 2.0
(3) (12) (13) 4 Handlebar upper
holder bolts 16 22 2.2
5 Handlebar holder nuts 32 44 4.5
6 Front axle nut 65 88 9.0
7 Front axle pinch bolts 15 20 2.0
(6) 8 Rear axle nut 94 128 13.1 NOTE 1
(9)
9 Chain adjuster lock nuts 20 27 2.8 NOTE 2
10 Front engine mounting
bolt 47 64 6.5
11 Engine mounting nut 47 64 6.5
12 Upper engine hanger
plate bolts
(10) (engine side) 40 54 5.5
(14)
(frame side) 19 26 2.7
(13) 13 Shock absorber (upper) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
(16)
(lower) 32 44 4.5 NOTE 1
14 Swingarm pivot nut 65 88 9.0 NOTE 1
(15) 15 Fork (fork damper) 25 34 3.5
(fork cap) 22 30 3.1
16 Rear shock arm nuts
(15)
(16) (18) (12) (swingarm side) 39 53 5.4 NOTE 1, 3
(shock link side) 39 53 5.4
17 Rear shock link nuts
(Frame side) 39 53 5.4
18 Shock spring lock nut 32 44 4.5
(8) (9) (7) 19 Kickstarter arm bolt 28 38 3.9
NOTES: 1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
4. Apply locking agent to the threads.
5. SH bolt
6. Alock bolt: replace with a new one

(16) (17) (19) (11)

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Torque Specifications
Frame FRAME
Torque
(39) Item Remarks
lbf•ft N•m kgf•m
20 Front brake master
cylinder holder bolts 7.3 9.9 1.0
(36) 21 Brake hose bolts 25 34 3.5
(29)
22 Front brake caliper
mounting bolts 22 30 3.1 NOTE 6
23 Front brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 1
24 Rear brake disc nuts 12 16 1.6 NOTE 1
(32) (35) 25 Brake pedal pivot bolt 27 36 3.7
(23) 26 Spokes (front) 2.7 3.68 0.4
(rear) 2.7 3.7 0.4
27 Rim locks 9 12 1.2
28 Drive chain roller (upper) 9 12 1.2 NOTE 5
(Iower) 9 12 1.2 NOTE 1
29 Subframe (upper) 22 30 3.1
mounting bolts (Iower) 36 49 5.0
30 Fork center bolt 51 69 7.0 NOTE 4
(26) (22) (28) 31 Fork center bolt lock nut 16 22 2.2
32 Disc cover bolts 10 13 1.3
(26) 33 Fork protector bolts 5.2 7 0.7 NOTE 6
(30) (31)
(37) 34 Muffler clamp bolt 15 21 2.1
(20) (21) 35 Driven sprocket nuts 24 32 3.3 NOTE 1
36 Seat mounting bolts 19 26 2.7
(40) (36) (40) 37 Front brake reservoir
(29) (39) (33) cap screws 0.7 1.0 0.1
38 Rear brake reservoir
cap bolts 0.7 1.0 0.1
39 Fork air pressure release
screw 0.9 1.2 0.1
(24) 40 Muffler mounting (A) 15 21 2.1
bolts (B) 15 21 2.1
NOTES: 1. U-nut.
2. UBS nut.
3. Apply oil to the threads and flange surface.
(34) 4. Apply a locking agent to the threads.
5. SH bolt
(29) 6. Alock bolt: replace with a new one

(38) (25)
(31) (27)

(30)
(27)

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Oxygenated Fuels
Some conventional gasolines are being blended If you notice any undesirable operating
with alcohol or an ether compound. These symptoms, try another service station or switch
gasolines are collectively referred to as to another brand of gasoline.
oxygenated fuels. To meet clean air standards,
some areas of the United States use oxygenated Fuel system damage or performance problems
fuels to help reduce emissions. resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel
containing more than the percentages of
If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is oxygenates mentioned above are not covered
unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating under warranty.
requirement.
Oxygenated the fuels can damage paint and
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm plastic. Be careful not to spill fuel when filling
the fuel’s contents. Some states/provinces the fuel tank. Wipe up any spills immediately.
require this information to be posted on the
pump.
NOTICE
The following are the EPA-approved percentages Oxygenated fuels can damage paint and plastic.
of oxygenates:

ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) 10% by


Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 10%
ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol
may be marketed under the name “Gasohol”.

MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether) 15% by


Volume
You may use gasoline containing up to 15%
MTBE by volume.

METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) 5% by


Volume
You may use gasoline containing methanol
containing up to 15% methanol by volume as
long as it contains cosolvents and corrosion
inhibitors to protect the fuel system. Gasoline
containing more than 5% methanol by volume
may cause starting and/or performance problems.
It may also damage metal, rubber, and plastic
parts of your fuel system.

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Competition Logbook
Any serious competition effort relies heavily on Tuning & Adjustment Records Racing Records
the knowledge gained and compiled from Keep track of the settings and adjustments that Information worth recording for this section of
previous racing events. The best way to organize worked best at a particular location. These items your logbook may include:
the many bits of information is to record them in include: • Your placing in each moto and overall
a logbook. • basic track conditions, altitude, and finishing position.
temperature • Thoughts on what you could do to improve
Your logbook can include such information as • carburetion changes your performance next time.
suspension adjustments, carburetor adjustments, • suspension settings • Notes on any patterns noted in choice of
gearing, and tire selection. This detailed • chassis adjustments tested and selected starting gate positions or in riding portions of
information, along with your comments, can • gearing the course as the day progressed that may
prove valuable when you compete at the same • tire selection prove helpful in future events.
track or on similar terrain. • air pressure • Any places on the course where you chose the
wrong line and were passed too easily.
Your logbook can also tell you when Competition Records • Notes on strategy used by your competition or
maintenance was performed and when it will be • your placings by riders in another event that are worth
necessary again. Your logbook also lets you • thoughts to improve performance next time: remembering.
record any repairs and lets you keep track of the both yours and your CRF’s
running time on the engine and suspension • strategy notes Maintenance Records
components. Regular maintenance items you’ll want to record
Maintenance Records in your logbook should include:
If you choose to sell your CRF, the accurate • regular interval maintenance • Dates and results of cylinder, piston and ring
maintenance records in your logbook might be • repairs examinations
the deciding deal-maker for a potential buyer. • running time on engine • Patterns for frequency of need for
• running time on suspension components decarbonization with a particular oil
Consider using different color pens or pencils to • When you last performed shock linkage and
record important information on specific Timekeeping swingarm pivot bearing maintenance
subjects. For example, record results in black, This Manual lists maintenance intervals for • Engine, transmission, and suspension oil
jetting changes in red, suspension/chassis settings every-so-many races or every-so-many hours of changes
in blue, and gearing selections in green. Color running. • Chain, sprocket, chain guide and slider
codes will help you identify the information you replacements
want with a glance. Because all races are not the same, the most • Coolant changes and related component
effective way to schedule maintenance is by the replacements
hours you have run your CRF. • Spark plug, brake pad and control cable
replacements
An official “guestimate” is close enough for our
timekeeping purposes. You may choose to record In addition, you should record any irregularities
your time the same way aircraft operators do (but noted in component wear so you’ll remember to
without the benefit of an electrical hourmeter). keep a close eye on these areas in the future.
All running time is broken down into hours and
tenths of an hour (each six minutes represents
one tenth of an hour).

146 Technical Information


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Competition Logbook
Date Running Location/Event Comments (Jetting, Suspension Settings, Gearing, Chassis Adjustments, Maintenance
Time Performed, etc.)

(Make several photocopies of this page for future use)

Technical Information 147


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Optional Parts List


These parts and tools may be ordered from your FRAME Remarks FRAME Remarks
authorized Honda dealer. Driven sprocket < >: Drive chain links Shock spring 308.0 lbf/in (5.50 kgf/mm)
Standard 48 Teeth, Aluminum. Standard
CARBURETOR Remarks
<114> No mark
Main jet #168 – #188 (in increments of Optional 47 Teeth, Aluminum (factory products)
(Standard: #178) 2 or 3) <114> Red
49 Teeth, Aluminum or Red
168 paint
<114>
(aftermarket parts)
Size Drive chain
Slow jet #38 – #48 size/link D.I.D 520 DMA2/120RB Optional 296.8 lbf/in (5.30 kgf/mm)
(Standard: #42) (in increments of 2 or 3) Handlebar Softer Blue
lower holder
Jet Needles
3 mm offset
Standard needle: NJYR Stiffer 319.2 lbf/in (5.70 kgf/mm)
Straight diameter: ø2.755 mm Optional no offset
Pink
Jet needle number
TOOLS Remarks 330.4 lbf/in (5.90 kgf/mm)
Pin spanner A To adjust spring preload. Silver
Straight diameter (ø2.755 mm) (two spanners required)
Jet needle number Jet needle number
(1/2 clip position Workstand For maintenance Fork spring 25.76 lbf/in (0.46 kgf/mm)
(standard series)
leaner than Standard
standard series, Air gauge For checking tire air pressure
leaner only at 1/8
to 3/4 throttle)
2 scribe marks
NJYP NKPP (aftermarket parts)
Ø2.735 mm Ø2.735 mm
General flow characteristics
Richer
(at 1/16 to 1/4 throttle)

NJYQ NKPQ Optional 24.64 lbf/in (0.44 kgf/mm)


Ø2.745 mm Ø2.745 mm Softer 3 scribe marks
(standard needle)
NJYR NKPR
Ø2.755 mm Ø2.755 mm Stiffer 26.88 lbf/in (0.48 kgf/mm)
Leaner

NJYS NKPS 4 scribe marks


Ø2.765 mm Ø2.765 mm

NJYT NKPT
Ø2.775 mm Ø2.775 mm The standard fork spring and shock spring
Leak jet #40 – #60
mounted on the motorcycle when it leaves the
(Standard: #50) factory are not marked. Before replacing the
springs, be sure to mark them so they can be
distinguished from other optional springs.

148 Technical Information


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Spare Parts & Equipment


There are numerous spare parts you can take to ignition components Pro Honda DOT 4 Brake Fluid
an event to help ensure you get in a full day of radiator hoses Pro Honda Chain Lube
riding. In addition to the usual nuts and bolts, radiator shrouds (L & R) Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
consider the following: brake hoses (front & rear) Pro Honda Hondabrite cleaner
Pro Honda Dielectric Grease
Pro Honda Handgrip Cement
Spare Parts General Tools Pro Honda Hondalock
Molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more
spark plugs sockets (3/8 in drive) than 30% molybdenum disulfide additive)
air cleaner (clean & oiled, sealed in a plastic bag) screwdrivers: blade & Phillips No. 1, 2, 3 Pro Honda White Lithium Grease
optional carburetor jets/needles wrench, large adjustable Multi-Purpose Grease
chain & masterlinks wrenches: open end & box Rust-inhibiting oil
chain guide slider wrenches: hex (Allen) Cable lubricant
chain guide wrench, spoke Pro Honda HP Coolant
chain rollers torque wrench (metric scale, click-stop style) Urea based multi-purpose grease designed for
inner tubes (front & rear) pliers: standard, needle-nose, channel-lock set high temperature, high pressure performance
fenders hammer, plastic head (example: EXELITE EP2 manufactured by
footpegs syringe with adjustable stop KYODO YUSHI, Japan or Shell stamina EP2 or
front visor & covers tire pressure gauge equivalent)
handlebar tire irons
grips tire pump or air tank
levers (brake, clutch & hot start) feeler gauge set Other Products
clutch lever handlebar mount Vernier caliper (metric)
clutch cable pressure/vacuum testing equipment pliers-safety wire
hot start cable safety wire
throttle assembly mechanic’s wire
throttle cable Honda Special Tools duct tape
shift lever plastic tie-wraps
rear brake pedal Any special tools for your CRF purchased from hose clamps
spokes (front & rear, each side) your Honda dealer. drop light
sprockets (larger & smaller than standard, for • Tensioner stopper 070MG-0010100 electrical tape
gearing changes & collision damage • Lock Nut Wrench 07WMA-KZ30100 Scotch-Brite Hand Pad #7447 (maroon) Teflon
replacement) • Spoke Wrench 07JMA-MR60100 tape
assorted nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cotter pins • Spoke Wrench 070MA-KZ30100

Additional Spares
front brake master cylinder Chemical Products
rear brake assembly
wheels & tires (front & rear, mounted) Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke Oil
clutch discs and plates (Engine and Transmission Oil)
engine & transmission oil SAE 80 or 90 gear oil
seat Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W

Technical Information 149


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Wiring Diagram

150 Technical Information


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Consumer Information
This section contains information about Authorized Manuals .........................................152
contacting Honda and how to get an official Contacting Honda.............................................153
Honda service manual. Your Honda Dealer...........................................154
The Honda Rider’s Club ..................................155

Consumer Information 151


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Authorized Manuals
The Service Manual used by your authorized Honda dealer is available from
Helm, Inc. NOTE: Dealers and Companies, please provide dealer or company name, and also
the name of the person to whose attention the shipment should be sent. For
purchases outside U.S.A., please write to the address shown below for a quotation.
Also available but not necessary to service your model is the Honda Common
Service Manual which explains theory of operation and basic service
information for various systems common to all Honda motorcycles, motor S
H Customer Name
scooters and ATVs.
I
Attention
These Honda manuals are written for the professional technician, but most P
mechanically-capable owners should find them helpful if they have the proper
Street Address-No P.O. Box Number Apt. #
tools and skills. Special Honda tools are necessary for some procedures. T
O City State Zip Code
Publication Item No. Description Price Each*
61MEN60 2007 CRF450R Service Manual $48.00 Daytime Telephone Number ( )

61CM002 Common Manual $48.00


31MEN630 2007 CRF450R Owner’s Manual $16.00
*Prices are subject to change without notice and without incurring obligation.

Order On-Line: www.helminc.com


Order Toll Free: 1-888-CYCLE93 (1-888-292-5393) Check or money order enclosed payable to Helm, Inc. U.S. funds only. Do not
send cash.
(NOTE: For Credit Card Orders Only) P
Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM EST Check here if your billing
A Master address is different from the
OR Card VISA Discover shipping address shown above.
By completing this form you can order the materials desired. You can pay by Y
check or money order, or charge to your credit card. Mail to Helm, M Account Number
Incorporated, at the address shown on this order form. E
N Expiration Date: Mo. Yr
Publication Price Total T —
Item No. Item Description Qty. Each* Price
Customer Signature Date

These Publications cannot be returned for credit without receiving advance authorization within
Sub Total 14 days of delivery. On returns, a restocking fee may be applied against the original order.
*Prices are subject to change without notice and Purchaser’s Sales
without incurring obligation. Tax
Mich. Add 6%
Calif. Add 8.25%
Orders are mailed within 10 days. Please allow
adequate time for delivery. Handling $5.00 HELM P.O. BOX 07280, DETROIT, MICHIGAN 48207
Charge
Grand Total

152 Consumer Information


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Contacting Honda
Your owner’s manual was written to cover most
of the questions you might ask about your
Honda. Any questions not answered in the
owner’s manual can be answered by your Honda
dealer. If he doesn’t have the answer right away,
he will get it for you.

If you have a difference of opinion with your


dealer, please remember that each dealership is
independently owned and operated. That’s why
it’s important to work to resolve any differences
at the dealership level.

If you wish to comment on your experiences with


your Honda or with your dealer, please send your
comments to the following address:

Motorcycle Division, American Honda Motor


Co., Inc., P.O. Box 2220, Torrance CA 90509-
2220, mailstop: 100-4C-7B,
telephone: (866) 784-1870.

Please include the following information in your


letter:

• name, address, and telephone number


• product model, year, and VIN
• date of purchase
• dealer name and address

We will likely ask your Honda dealer to respond,


or possibly acknowledge your comments directly.

Consumer Information 153


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Your Honda Dealer


Once you purchase your new Honda, get familiar Your dealer can inform you about competition
with the organization of your Honda dealer so events in your area. You’ll also find that your
you can utilize the full range of services dealer is a source of information the Honda
available. Rider’s Club of America.

The service department is there to perform We’re sure you’ll be as pleased with the service
regular maintenance and unexpected repairs. It your Honda dealer continues to provide after the
has the latest available service information from sale as you are with the quality and dependability
Honda. of your Honda.

The parts department offers Genuine Honda


parts, Pro Honda products and Hondaline
accessories. The same quality that went into
your Honda can be found in Genuine Honda
replacement parts. You’ll also find comparable
quality in the accessories and products available
from the parts department.

154 Consumer Information


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The Honda Rider’s Club


One of the best ways to get the most enjoyment
from owning and riding your Honda is through
the Honda Rider’s Club of America. Your
purchase of a new motorcycle, scooter, ATV or
PWC from a participating U.S. Honda dealer
entitles you to a complimentary one-year
membership in the Club. There are hundreds of
HRCA Chapter-sponsoring dealers across the
USA with events and activities almost every
weekend. Membership benefits include:
• 24-hour, toll-free roadside assistance for your
new Honda (includes roadside assistance for
your transport vehicle [up to one ton] as long
as your Honda is aboard or in tow). For
street-legal motrcycles and scooters only.
• An exclusive HRCA website complete with
access to the official Honda Common Service
Manual, contests, insider information and
more.
• Reimbursement (up to $75) for successful
completion of a Motorcycle Safety
Foundation training course. Separate,
complimentary training from the Specialty
Vehicle Institute of America for purchasers of
new ATVs.
• One full year of Honda Red Rider magazine
(six issues).
• Discounts from HRCA partners for
experienced rider courses.
• Discounted vehicle insurance from the
HRCA’s insurance partner.
• Racing contingency programs and assistance
at selected dual-sport, off-road and motocross
events for off-road motorcycles and selected
ATVs.

If you purchased an off-road motorcycle, ATV or


PWC, your benefits do not include roadside
assistance or trip interruption protection.

Contact your Honda dealer for more information


or call: 1-800-847-4722 or log on to
www.hrca.honda.com.

Consumer Information 155


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Table of Contents
The following presents the contents of each SERVICING YOUR HONDA........................17 Chassis
section of your owner’s manual. Before You Service Your Honda Suspension.........................................................73
The Importance of Maintenance .......................18 Front Suspension Inspection.........................73
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY...............................1 Maintenance Safety...........................................19 Rear Suspension Inspection..........................74
Important Safety Information..............................2 Important Safety Precautions........................19 Brakes................................................................77
Important Safety Precautions..........................2 Maintenance Schedule ......................................20 Wheels...............................................................81
Accessories & Modifications ..............................3 General Competition Maintenance ...................22 Tires & Tubes ....................................................82
Safety Labels.......................................................4 Before & After Competition Maintenance........26 Drive Chain .......................................................84
Between Motos & Practice Maintenance .....26 Exhaust Pipe/Muffler ........................................87
OPERATING CONTROLS .............................5 After Competition Maintenance ...................26 Additional Maintenance Procedures .................90
Operation Component Locations ........................6 Appearance Care ...............................................92
Service Preparations
BEFORE RIDING ............................................7 Maintenance Component Locations..................28
Are You Ready to Ride? .....................................8 Seat Removal ....................................................29
Is Your Motorcycle Ready to Ride?....................9 Fuel Tank Removal ...........................................30
Pre-ride Inspection..........................................9 Subframe Removal............................................32

BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ......11 Service Procedures


Safe Riding Precautions ....................................12
Starting & Stopping the Engine ........................13 Fluids & Filters
Preparation ....................................................13 Fuel System.......................................................34
Starting Procedure ........................................13 Engine Oil .........................................................36
Flooded Engine .............................................13 Transmission Oil ...............................................39
How to Stop the Engine................................14 Coolant ..............................................................41
Break-in Guidelines ..........................................15 Air Cleaner ........................................................43
Crankcase Breather ...........................................45

Engine
Throttle ..............................................................46
Engine Idle Speed .............................................48
Clutch System ...................................................49
Hot Start Lever..................................................53
Spark Plug .........................................................54
Valve Clearance.................................................55
Piston/Piston Rings/Piston Pin..........................65

156 Table of contents


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Table of Contents
ADJUSTMENTS FOR COMPETITION .....95 TIPS ................................................................133
Front Suspension Adjustments..........................96 Transporting Your Motorcycle ........................134
Front Suspension Air Pressure......................96 Storing Your Honda.........................................135
Front Suspension Damping ..........................96 Preparation for Storage ...............................135
Fork Springs..................................................97 Removal frrom Storage...............................135
Front Suspension Disassembly .....................97 You & the Environment ..................................136
Damper Oil Change ....................................100 Troubleshooting...............................................137
Fork Assembly ............................................103
Rear Suspension Adjustments.........................109 TECHNICAL INFORMATION ..................139
Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load..............109 Vehicle Identification ......................................140
Rear Suspension Damping..........................110 Specifications ..................................................141
Rear Suspension Race Sag..........................111 Torque Specifications......................................142
Suspension Adjustments for Track Oxygenated Fuels............................................145
Conditions ...................................................113 Competition Logbook .....................................146
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines.................114 Optional Parts List ..........................................148
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips ..........117 Spare Parts & Equipment................................149
Carburetor Components ..............................117 Wiring Diagram...............................................150
Carburetor Circuit Functions ......................119
Carburetor Removal....................................119 CONSUMER INFORMATION ...................151
Carburetor Disassembly..............................121 Authorized Manuals ........................................152
Carburetor Assembly ..................................123 Contacting Honda............................................153
Standard Tuning Recommendations ...........124 Your Honda Dealer..........................................154
Adjustments for Altitude & Temperature ...124 The Honda Rider’s Club .................................155
Special Tuning Conditions..........................125
Pre-Adjustment Checks ..............................125
Carburetor Minor Adjustments ...................126
Spark Plug Reading ....................................128
Chassis Adjustments........................................129
Rear End .....................................................129
Fork Height/Angle ......................................129
Wheelbase ...................................................129
Gearing ............................................................130
Tire Selection for Track Conditions................131
Personal Fit Adjustments ................................132
Control Positioning .....................................132
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape...........132

Table of contents 157


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Index
A C E
accessories...........................................................3 capacity, fuel .....................................................34 engine,
adjustments, carburetor, flooded .........................................................13
altitude and temperature.............................124 adjustment ..................................................124 idle speed......................................................48
carburetor ...................................................126 circuit functions..........................................119 number .......................................................140
chassis ........................................................129 components.................................................117 pinging .........................................................34
control freeplay .............................44,49,53,77 disassembly/assembly ................................121 starting..........................................................13
for competition.............................................95 idle speed .....................................................48 stop button....................................................14
gearing........................................................130 minor adjustments ......................................126 stopping ........................................................14
personal fit .................................................132 removal.......................................................119 won’t start ..................................................137
suspension, front ..........................................96 care, appearance ................................................92 environment, protecting ..................................136
suspension, rear..........................................109 chain drive.........................................................84
suspension, track conditions ......................113 chassis adjustments .........................................129 F
tire selection .................................................83 choke knob ........................................................13
after competition maintenance ..........................26 cleaner, air .........................................................43 filter,
air cleaner ..........................................................43 cleaning, appearance care .................................92 air .................................................................43
air pressure, clutch system, adjustment .................................49 oil .................................................................37
front suspension ...........................................96 consumer information .....................................151 flooded engine, starting.....................................13
tires...............................................................82 competition logbook........................................146 fork,
apparel, protective ...............................................2 contacting Honda ............................................153 front suspension adjustment.........................96
appearance care .................................................92 controls, operating...............................................5 front suspension inspection..........................73
authorized manuals..........................................152 coolant ...............................................................41 oil recommendation......................................75
customer service..............................................154 front brake lever adjustment .............................77
B cylinder system..................................................67 front suspension maintenance ...........................96
fuel,
basic operation...................................................11 D line................................................................34
before riding ........................................................7 filter ..............................................................35
between motos & practice maintenance ...........26 damping adjustments, recommendation...........................................34
brakes, front ..............................................................96 refueling .......................................................34
fluid level .....................................................78 rear..............................................................110 system...........................................................34
lever, front adjustment .................................77 dealer, your Honda ..........................................154 oxygenated .................................................145
pad wear .......................................................80 diagram, wiring ...............................................150 tank capacity ................................................34
pedal height ..................................................77 drive chain.........................................................84 valve .............................................................13
break-in guidelines ............................................15

158 Index
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Index
G M R
gap, spark plug ..................................................54 maintenance, rear suspension maintenance...........................109
gasohol ............................................................145 after competition ..........................................26 Rider’s Club Honda.........................................155
gasoline..............................................................34 before & after competition...........................26 riding,
gearing.............................................................130 between motos & practice............................26 apparel ............................................................2
guidelines, suspension adjustment ..................114 component locations ....................................28 basic operation .............................................11
general competition......................................22 before..............................................................7
H importance....................................................18 important safety information..........................2
safety ............................................................19 safety precautions...........................................2
handlebar inspection..........................................90 schedule........................................................20
Honda, manual, service................................................152 S
contacting ...................................................153 modifications.......................................................3
Rider’s Club ...............................................155 safety,
service manual............................................152 O a few words about .................Safety Messages
your dealer..................................................154 important information ....................................2
oil, important precautions.....................................2
I engine ...........................................................36 labels ..............................................................4
fork ...............................................................75 maintenance..................................................19
identification, vehicle......................................140 transmission .................................................39 riding precautions.........................................12
idle speed, engine ..............................................48 operating, schedule, maintenance.......................................20
inspection, pre-ride..............................................9 controls...........................................................5 serial numbers .................................................140
instructions ...................................................11 service,
L operation component locations ...........................6 customer .....................................................154
optional, manuals ......................................................152
labels, safety........................................................4 parts list ......................................................148 spare parts........................................................149
logbook, competition.......................................146 sprockets.....................................................130 spark knock .......................................................34
oxygenated fuels..............................................145 spark plug,
maintenance..................................................54
P reading........................................................128
specifications...................................................141
pads, brake.........................................................80 spring pre-load, rear suspension .....................109
parts, optional..................................................148 starting,
personal fit adjustments ..................................132 engine ...........................................................13
pinging, engine..................................................34 troubleshooting...........................................137
plug, spark .........................................................54 steering stem inspection ....................................90
pre-load, rear suspension.................................109 stopping engine .................................................14
pre-ride inspection...............................................9 storage .............................................................135
protective apparel ................................................2 subframe ............................................................32

(cont’d)

Index 159
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Index
suspension,
front ..............................................................73
rear................................................................74
suspension adjustment,
front ..............................................................96
rear..............................................................109
for track conditions ....................................113
guidelines ...................................................114

T
transmission oil .................................................39
tuning tips ........................................................117
throttle,
freeplay.........................................................46
inspection .....................................................47
tires,
air pressure ...................................................82
flat ................................................................82
selection........................................................83
tools ...............................................................149
torque specifications ................................142-144
transporting......................................................134
troubleshooting................................................137
tubes, replacing .................................................82

V
valve, fuel..........................................................13
vehicle identification no. (VIN) ......................140

W
washing your motorcycle ..................................92
wheels................................................................81
wiring diagram ................................................150

160 Index
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Memo 161
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162 Memo
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Memo 163
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Quick Reference
The following is a brief, but important collection Record important information here:
of information you need to know about your VIN
Honda. You’ll also find space to record Engine No.
important notes.
Owner’s:
Name
How To Avoid Costly Repairs Address
City/State
The engine of your Honda can be the most Phone
expensive component to repair. Proper Dealer’s:
maintenance, especially the use of the
Name
recommended fluids and filters, prevents
premature wear and damage. Address
City/State
Frequent causes of costly engine repairs are: Phone
• Transmission oil & engine oil: insufficient Service Mgr.
quantity, improper oil.
• Air cleaner: dirty, leaking because of
Maintenance The maintenance schedule (page 21) lists service frequencies for:
each race or about 2.5 hours,
every 3 races or about 7.5 hours, every 6 races or about 15.0 hours,
every 9 races or about 22.5 hours and every 12 races or about 30.0 hours
Pre-ride Inspection Check the items listed on the Pre-ride Inspection checklist each time before you ride
(page 9):
Fuel/Tank Capacity unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 91 or higher
tank: 1.90 US gal (7.2R)
Engine oil Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Transmission oil Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil or an equivalent motorcycle oil.
Tires 80/100 – 21 51M 110/90 – 19 62M
Front Rear
DUNLOP D742FA DUNLOP D756
Type bias-ply, tube
Tire Pressure (cold) Front: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm2)
Rear: 15 psi (100 kPa, 1.0kgf/cm2)
Spark Plug standard: IFR8H11 (NGK) or VK24PRZ11 (DENSO)
optional: IFR9H11 (NGK) or VK27PRZ11 (DENSO)
Coolant ethylene glycol antifreeze (silicate-free) for aluminum engines in 50/50 solution with
Pro Honda HP Coolant or equivalent distilled water.
Drive Chain Size/Link D.I.D 520DMA2/114

Quick Reference

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