DEPARTMENT OF FASHION AND LIFESTYLE ACCESSORIES DESIGN
NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI. MODERN AND HERITAGE COLLECTION-CHAPPERS INDIA
INDUSTRY SPONSOR: Chappers
GRADUATION PROJECT REPORT
submitted in partial fulfillment of the Graduation Project of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.
Student name: Mamta Vaghadia
Faculty guide: Prof. Saurabh Kumar
Designation: ……………………………………
May. 2017 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that Mr/Ms. MAMTA VAGHADIA of Fashion and Lifestyle Ac- cessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology - Mumbai, has been evaluated for his or her Graduation Project report and have fulfilled the re- quirements set by the institute and the evaluation jury. His or Her work has been found satisfactory.
All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a re- trieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechani- cal, photocopying, recording and scanning or other wise in any form without the written permission of the copyright owners.
Design: MAMTA.VAGHADIA Printed at: ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I would like to express my deepest appreciation to all those who provided me the possibility to complete the Internship project. I am also grateful for having a chance to meet so many wonderful people and professionals who led me though this Internship period.
I thank my institute, NIFT Mumbai, for forming a curriculum that gives us the opportunity to gain the vital industry exposure during the courses of our study. I would like to thank my project mentor, Prof. Saurabh Kumar. I am also thankful to our Course Coordinator, Depart- ment of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories and my faculty Prof. Kumar Sudeepta for always being there to encourage me in my endeavors.
I would like to express my gratitude to my industry mentor and founder of Chappers Mr. Harshwardhan Patwardhan, for his support, patience, and encouragement throughout my internship project. It is not often that one finds an advisor that always finds the time for listening to the little problems and roadblocks that unavoidably come up in the course of internship project. His technical advice was es- sential and has taught me innumerable lessons and insights on the leather footwear industry.
I express my deepest thanks to Mr. Pratik Hatwalane Operations Manager of Chappers for helping me and giving necessary advices and guidance and for arranging all facilities to make life easier.
Furthermore I would also like to acknowledge with much appreciation the crucial role of karigars at Chappers for guiding me and giving me actual factual information on manufacturing of footwear. SYNOPSIS The graduation project gives students like us the necessary maturity and confidence to make constructive contribution to all design related needs in the actual indusrty This Internship project has helped me evolve as a Designer, that is learn to be able to work most creatively keeping in mind the given constrains like manufacturing feasibility, costing and consumer psyche. My project comprises following collections: 1.)Modern Collection 2.)Heritage Collection CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ORIGINAL KOLHAPURIS V/S CHAP- PERS ABOUT CHAPPERS PRODUCTION PROCESS MY RESPONSIBILITIES MACHINERY DESIGN BRIEF TOOLS COMPANY PROFILE LOCATION EXISTING PRODUCT RANGE
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE THE PROPOSAL
STUDIO
MARKET SEGMENT a)User b)Price Range c)Quality d)Possible competitors MODERN COLLECTION HERITAGE COLLECTION NEW SOLE DEVELOPMENT a)Texture, prints and materials a)Texture, prints and material b)Clientele b)Clientele ORIGINAL KOLHAPURI DE- c)Concept Sketches c)Concept Sketches VELPOMENT d)Details d)Details e)Technical Drawing e)Technical Drawing CONCLUSION f)Development f)Development g)Sampling g)Sampling h)Costing h)Costing i)Possible colourways INTRODUCTION National Institute Of Fashion Technology Mumbai is committed to establish continious and healthy interaction with the industry to share information, expertise and real life oppor- tunities through Graduation Projects and intenships. In the last semester of the four year full time Accesssory Design(AD) Degree Program is the Graduation project. Graduation project an exposure towards working in professional environment of real life industry pro- ject requiring us to perform creatively within given constraints and giving viable and practical solutions to the problems. This interaction between the students and the sponsoring company aims to provide profitable difference to the industry and crucial learning experience to the students. ABOUT CHAPPERS
At chappers they have an uncontrollable fascination towards all things old and new, especially towards the new. Their story started in a land far away, United Kingdom to be precise. Being a true Indian, their founder Harshwardhan Patwardhan carried with him and used a pair of traditional Kolhapuri sandals whilst studying Business Management in Nottingham. What he didn’t expect were all the compliments he received for them. This incident unknowingly set the wheels churning and the idea of Chappers was born.
Upon returning to India he started helping with his father’s transportation business only to realize that he didn’t belong there. Going back to his initial idea of experimenting with the traditional Kolhapuri sandals, he wondered if the idea would catch on. The initial research in- cluded a lot of solo trips to Kolhapur, finding out and arranging meetings with leather manufacturers in Dharavi etc. Modi’s Make in India scheme proved to be the ultimate inspiration as a few samples were made and distributed amongst family and friends for a test run. Each pair was tested in some harsh conditions including long and difficult treks and ploughing through heavy rains. Only after the results were satisfying, did they start with the initial design and manufacturing process.
Today they spend a lot of their time innovating and experimenting with the design, testing out new products (our new anti-skid rubber layer works wonders on slippery surfaces) and trying to better their last batches by using the latest available technology to make their pair more comfortable. Each pair of Chappers is completely handcrafted in their workshop situated in Pune. Their skilled craftsmen put in a lot of hard work right from cutting the leather to stitching the sole to hand polishing the side edges and that is why they make sure to remunerate them with three times of what they would usually make on a pair of traditional Kolhapuri sandals. HIGH PRICE
LOW HIGH QUALITY QUALITY
LOW PRICE PHYSIQUE Coloufull Different PERSONALITY Hand stiched Quality oriented Genuine Leather traditional Comfortable
INTERNALISATION EXTERNALISATION
RELATIONSHIP CULTURE Trust Royal maratha Soul of heritage Modern tradition
SELF IMAGE REFLECTION Driven by inner pas- Qulaitative sion Pioneering Empowering Karigars For love of Kolhapuris Reinventig kolhapuris Kolhapuri a global phenomenon MY RESPONSIBLITIES
ANALYSIS CREATIVITY DEVELOPMENT
Observational reseach Concept development Material selection
Reasearch on existing kolhapuris Developing the chosen conepts through Pattern cuttings Study of the origin, making, market etc. sketchs Sample making User Insights CAD designs Fittings and corrections DESIGN BRIEF: 1) Heritage collection This collection focuses on the ancient Indian handicrafts and attempts to take them to the next level by making them super comfortable and classy. These designs should be used in the wedding collections and festive collections too.
2) Modern collection This collection focuses on the modern day footwear but attempts to give it a Kolhapuri edge. These designs need to be really funky yet wearable in day to day life. Can include colours like neon yellow, olive, bottle green, electric blue, orange etc along with hints of gold/silver. Indian sandals- The world has never seen Kolhapuri chappals blended with sandals. These de- signs can be funky or classic whatever, but have to look and feel unique.
Most of the designs have to be male centric since 85% of clients of Chappers are men. COMPANY PROFILE
Company Name: Chappers
Type: Private Limited
Company Location: “Sai Prasad” Building, Hotel Nisarg Lane,
Off Karve Road, Erandwane, Pune 411004 Maharashtra, India
Company’s USP: Pure leather Indian Handcrafted sandals.
Chappers is more about quality and inno- vation than it is about money They aim to build a brand which cares for its craftsmen.
Company Vision: To build a brand which stands for its qual-
ity and its Made in India tag and to make the Kolhapuri a global phenomena. Company Location: “Sai Prasad” Building, Hotel Nisarg Lane, Off Karve Road, Erandwane, Pune 411004 Maharashtra, India ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
FOUNDER Harshwardhan Patwardhan
OPERATIONS MANGER Pratik Hatwalane
MARKETING SALES Param Joshi Atul Shinde
KARIGARS INTERNS
LEATHER CONSULTANT Mr. Damle STUDIO MARKET SEGEMET
User
Age Group: 15-80 years
Lifestyle: Status oriented, achievers
Price range: Rs. 1500 - Rs 3500 Quality: Possible competitors
Premium ORIGINAL KOLHAPURIS V/S CHAPPERS
Vegetable tan leather 100% Genuine Leather
No cushioning Foam for cushioning
Sole is slippery Anti-skid rubber layer Dura sole
One of the most common problem faced in original kolhapuri is No shoe bites due to leather nurishing lotion which softens the leath- shoe bites er, preserves the original softness and feel of the leather.
Craftsmen are remunerated by three times of what they would usu-
ally make on a pair of traditional Kolhapuri sandals. Innovative Designs KOLHAPURI PARTS PRODUCTION PROCESSS
Leather sole cutting Base leather is hand cut and pasted onto the recycled cork. The cork layer provides ultimate comfort.
A piece of dark tan leather being marked for cutting.
The leather belt being cut with a special tool called ‘Rapi’. This The leather belt is pasted with a soft leather lining for a softer gives the belt a classic rough edge. feel to the users’ foot.
Leather braid upper and upper being attached to the sole Leather braid making for the upper MACHINERY
Embossing Machine for chappers Buffing Machine for Cutting Machine for logo on the sole Finishing cutting sole leather, foam etc using dye Grinder-Edge finishing Machine for Stitching Machine- Single post bed cutting the edges of thick leather up- pers ACCESSORIES USED ON THE UPPER
LOGO TOOLS FOR CUTTING GONDA SOCKET FOR HOLDING GONDA
BHINGRI
THREAD Synthetic rubber adhesive for foot- Dudh Solution Wax bars used with buffing machine wear industry Used for sticking uppers parts and layers for final fininshing Diluted lacquer is used Used for sole and kaan sticking TOOLS
IRON RAPI RAPI PATHAR
POGAR
PALTAN
RAPI
AARI
HASTI POGAR EXISTING PRODUCT RANGE AT CHAPPERS THE PROPOSAL
Based on the brief I have come up with
the following proposals
MODERN COLLECTION: 1)Kolhapuris with slogans and statments 2.)Denim Kolhapuri 3.)Camouflgue Kolhapuris 4.)Punk rock Kolhapuris
HERITAGE COLLECTION 1.)Embroidery with maratha motifs 2.)White and golden kasvu Kolhapuris 3.)Ikhat and jute kolhapuris 4.)Traditonal kolhapuri sandals MODERN COLLECTION TEXTURES PRINTS AND MATERIALS
SOLOGANS AND STATMENT KOLHAPURIS
Fun statements are incorporated into
footwear, with bold, eye-catching typography for a cool look. Layered, screen-printed and hand written fonts add impact in monochrome tones.
DENIM KOLHAPURIS
Denim is used in more rugged ways, with
a natural, raw finish. Dark indigo washes complemented by honest and authentic materials such as rope, cork and jute. CAMOUFLGUE KOLHAPURIS
Perennial camouflage print stories are
updated with organic motifs. This classic print direction is key, but updated with patched, over-printed and mismatched designs.
PUNK ROCK KOLHAPURIS
Studs and stones details on the uppers to
give a punk rock look with skeleton studs and other colorful stones placed interest- ingly over the footwear. CLIENTELE CONCEPT SKETCHS STUDS AND STONES SAMPLING DETAILS
Back Panel Leather veni(Braid)
Red Gonda
Denim material
Screen Print on Kolhapuri silhouette
Lace
Camouflage laether
Retaining the kan of kolhauri chappal to
give a modern kolhauri look DEVELOPMENT
Pattern Cutting Testing with alternate material
SAMPLING CAMOUFLAGE KOLHAPURI MODERN COLLECTION DETAILS 1.)Camouflage print leather for the upper 2.)Golden leather for upper bhingri ,veni and paan 3.)Coffee brown chrome leather for sole 4.)5mm foam sheet for cushioning 5.)Dura sole CLASSIC CHAPPERS WITH A NEON TWIST MODERN COLLECTION POSSIBLE COLOURWAYS FOR MODERN KOLHAPURI COLLECTION WOMEN FOOTWEAR COLOUR FORECAST
enhances its glamour through the intrinsic borders soaked in the color of pure gold. The borders are designed in a kasavu style with the use of different colored threads, imprint- ing ethnic and religious motifs in multi colored threadwork. INTRICATE WOVEN
Refined and sophisticated weaves offer a
play of texture and colour. Patterns chal- lenge form and function, working well as part of a detail highlight, or applied to the complete upper. Distinctive rattan, leather and cotton surfaces are combined with rich earthy tones to create designs with a cross- cultural look.
KASAVU FABRIC AND MOTIFS OF KERLA
Weaver ties bundles of warp threads in
precise patterns to prepare for coloured dyes. A more intricate resist-dyeing tech- nique like tie-dyeing, tied patterns must ac- curately match the planned fabric design. CLIENTELE CONCEPT SKETCHES MEWAR TRADITIONAL COLLECTION
Rs.3200 DETAILS: 1.)Golden leather upper 2.)Olive green oil pull up leather for sole. 3.)Gonda 4.)Pan-golden 5.)Bhingri olive green and gold 6.)Tassel details on upper 7.)Moti mala for accessory 8.)Leather sole DEVELPOMENT
Material section Pattern cutting, fittinngs and finishing
AVAILABLE AT www.chappers.in ROYAL BLACK SANDALS
Rs.2600 DETAILS: 1.)Polyurethane sole 2.)Black leather for upper 3.)Golden veni 4.)Gonda 5.)Pan and bhingri 6.)Brass buckle POSSIBLE COLOURWAYS FOR HERITAGE COLLECTION NEW SOLE DESIGNS DEVELPOMENT OF ORIGINAL KOLHAPURI COLLECTION
Biocentre-wax dye used to paint the veg tan leather uppers and soles Painting the veg tan leather uppers and soles Painted and decorated uppers and soles ready for assembly CONCLUSION
The two collections designed are not the only outcomes of this 22 weeks Gradua- tion Project at Chappers. This experience has hepled in harnessing knowledge of technicalties and given me a better insight of the system, right from the develop- ment of new ideas to the execution of the vision.One of the most important lessons was to design the footwear according to the consumer. It hepled me understand how the footwear industry works and how to cater to the needs of consumers, laborers and tradesmen effeciently. Besides footwear I got to experience marketing and sales too and how imortant it is to know how to present and sell the designs you made.
