Woodworking Tips

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The document discusses 18 common types of wood joints and their uses as well as some tips for choosing the right joint. It also covers uses of particle board in construction.

Butt joints, dowel joints, biscuit joints, tongue and groove joints, mitered butt joints and frame joints are some of the main types discussed.

The biscuit joint is mentioned as requiring a specific tool called a biscuit plate joiner to create slots for the biscuits.

Woodworking Tips

Wood Joinery Techniques: 18 Types of Wood Joints & How to Make


Them
Learning how to join two pieces of wood together is an essential woodworking skill.
There are many different wood joinery techniques you can use and in this post we’ll
cover the 18 most common types of wood joints and how each is made, as well as
some tips on how to choose the right wood joinery method for you!

1. Square-Ended Basic Butt Joint

This is the most simple and straight forward way of making 90 degree wood joints, but it
is not always the strongest or the best choice for every project.

In a square ended basic butt joint, one piece of wood butts up against another, most
often perpendicularly at a right angle.

Since glue alone is typically not strong enough to make a sturdy butt join, it is usually
necessary to hold the pieces together with fine nails, screws or other types of fasteners
to make the joint stronger.

2. Edge-to-Edge Butt Joint


An edge to edge butt joint is similar to a square-ended butt joint, except pieces of wood
are laid side by side on the edge. This is typically done to make a panel of wood from
multiple pieces.

This type of joint is not very strong and difficult to reinforce with metal fasteners. If the
two pieces of wood you are joining together are more than 12 inches long, it is typically
necessary to instead use an edge to edge dowel joint or biscuit joint – which we cover in
more detail later in this post.

3. Mitered Butt Joint

Mitered Butt Joints are used to make a neat right-angle corner without any visible wood
grain. While mitered butt joints typically look the neatest, they are not always the
strongest or most durable – so this type of joint is usually reserved for light duty projects
such as photo frames.

To make a mitered butt joint, cut the edge of the wood at a 45 degree angle. To fasten
the two pieces together, add glue and clamp until the glue dries.

4. Tongue-and Groove Joint


A tongue and groove wood joint is often used instead of edge to edge butt joints and it
easily allows for one piece of wood to slide into another. Tongue and Groove joints are
much more stronger and can typically be seen in applications such as flooring.

To cut a tongue-and-groove joint by hand, it is usually necessary to have tongue and


groove router bits. One bit is used to shape the tongue on one piece of wood and the
one is used to make the groove. Cut the tongue first, then change the bit and make the
matching groove.

Tongue and groove router bits come in a wide variety of different sizes so make sure
you order the right size that will fit your project.

5. Right Angle Dowel Frame Joints

Dowel frame joints can be a lot stronger than you might think. Many furniture builders
use dowel frame joints for a variety of different applications – from chairs to dresser
drawers and more.

Note that fluted or spiral cut dowels are best as this gives additional “grip” compared to
smooth dowels. Most hardwood stores sell packages of pre-cut wood dowels
specifically for wood joinery that you can use.

To make the dowel frame joint, drill two holes that match up with each other in 2 pieces
of wood. Insert the dowels with some wood glue in one piece of wood, and then add
glue and attach the second piece of wood so the dowels slide in the holes you drilled.

In most cases, two dowels per joint are sufficient. Be sure they are at least a minimum
of ¼ inch from both edges of the rail. For longer pieces of wood, you may want to use 3
or 4 dowels.
The advantage to this method is it can be simpler to make than box joints or dovetail
joints and doesn’t require any specialized tools – just a drill!

6. Edge-to-Edge Dowel Joint

An edge to edge dowel joint is constructed very much like a square ended dowel joint,
except in this case you are joining two pieces of wood side by side instead of
perpendicularly at a 90 degree angle.

Depending on the length of your project and desired strength, you can insert dowels
every 6, 9 or 12 inches apart. The more dowels = more strength, so consider the
application for what you are using the dowel joint for.

7. Biscuit Joints

Biscuit joints are similar to dowel joints, except instead of dowels one uses “biscuits”
which are small, flat oval shaped pieces of wood.

Biscuit joints are not typically as strong as dowel joints, but most hardwood stores do
carry the wood biscuits in stock. One disadvantage to making biscuit joints is they
typically require a specific tool called a biscuit plate joiner.
To make biscuit joints, the plate joiner is used to create slots where the biscuits will fit
inside. You then glue together the biscuits into the slots with the adjoining piece of
wood.

8. Mortise and Tenon Joint

A Mortise and Tenon joint are one of the stronger types of wood joints and have been
used for many different types of wood projects and even larger construction projects
such as barns and sheds.

The mortise is a hole and the tenon is a “tongue” that fits into the hole.

One of the challenges with making mortise and tenon joints is ensuring the tongue and
mortise fit each other. When making these joints, it makes sense to always cut the
mortise first. This way you will have an easier time making the tenon fit exactly.
Fortunately, one can typically do this with basic tools such as saw!

Once the mortise and tenon are cut, you can then simply connect the two pieces with a
bit of wood glue.

9. Corner Bridle Joint

Similar to a mortise and tenor joint or tongue and groove joint, with a corner bridled joint
you are creating a slot in one piece of wood and cutting the other piece of wood to fit
into the slot.

Many people often opt to insert two dowels through the side of the joint after the glue
has set to improve the strength of this joint.

10. Mitered Bridle Joint

The mitered bridle is cut in a similar fashion as the conventional corner bridle joint, but
is a more attractive alternative, especially for uses like picture frames.

To make a mitered bridle joint, you would cut the pieces of wood at a 45 degree angle,
but allow for the tongue/groove portion of the joint to be square.

12. Half Lap Joint


A basic half lap joint is only a little bit stronger than a regular butt joint, but it can offer
somewhat of a neater appearance with much of the end grain concealed.

Lap Joints are sometimes used to connect a drawer front to drawer sides or can be
used when making a simple box.

In a lap joint, pieces of wood are typically cut or notched in half and the two pieces are
joined by overlapping one piece with the other.

13. Box Joints

Box joints are an easy method of joining together pieces of wood when making a box.
They are squares and square grooves cut out alternately on two edges of wood so that
when you fit them together the squares line up to make a clean edge.

They can often times be hand cut simply with a saw, although of course there are router
accessories sold that can make cutting them an easier task.

14. Dovetail Joint

Dovetail joints are probably one of the strongest types of wood joints and they can also
give a nice look on a finished edge. Dovetail joints are often seen in box construction
and drawer construction.

Dovetails are similar to box joints, but the “tails” are cut at an angle to provide additional
strength.

Dovetail joints can be cut by hand using a saw or you can use a router. Cutting dovetail
joints on a router is much easier when you make use of dovetail joint jig and template.
Most router manufacturers sell this as an accessory.
15. Half Blind Dovetail Joint

A half blind dovetail joint makes sense when you want to join together two pieces of
wood for a box, but do not want the dovetails to be seen from both sides.

Half blind dovetails are made very much in the same way as regular dovetail joints,
except they are only cut half way through the corner, leaving a clean edge on the
outside of the wood. This is a popular choice for drawer makers.

16. Sliding Dovetail Joints

Sliding dovetail joints are another popular option with many uses. In this type of joint,
rather than cutting individual dovetails, the entire length of one board is cut into the
dovetail shape, while the other piece of wood has a long groove.

Once the cuts are made, it is as simple as applying a little bit of wood glue and sliding
the pieces of wood into place.

While it is certainly possible to cut a sliding dovetail by hand, these are made easily on
a router with the proper attachments and accessories.

16. Finger Joint / Comb Joint

Finger joints are very similar to dovetail joints, but the edges are usually cut in a saw-
blade or comb like pattern.

Finger joints can be very strong, but some people do not like to use them because the
zig-zag comb pattern is not something they want seen on the outside of their project. Of
course, sometimes the design of these joints can be beautiful and add character to a
piece.
To make finger joints, it is usually best to use a specific finger / comb router bit in order
to make sure the two edges will line up together. Once the pieces are cut, simply apply
glue and allow to dry.

17. Dado Joint

Dado joints are most commonly used when joining wood pieces together in a T-shape,
such as making dividers in a box or drawer.

This is a very simple joint to make, where you simply cut out a slot or groove for the
other piece to fit in perpendicularly. They can then be attached with wood glue.

18. Rabbet Joint

Rabbet joints are very similar to half lap joints and dado joints, where one half of each
end is cut so that they fit together.

They are relatively easy to make as it is a straight cut on each board. They can then be
glued together.

Rabbet joints are not the strongest, but it is a wood joinery technique that is often used
in cabinet making and for the backs of shelving and drawers.

Which Type of Wood Joint Should I Use For My Project?

For many people, the type of wood joint you use is usually all a matter of personal
preference. However, it is important to consider the use of the item you are making, as
not all joints are created equal! Here are some things to consider:

How Much Strength Do You Need?

If you are building something that will be subject to everyday use, it makes sense to use
one of the stronger types of joints, such as dovetail or box joints.

For example, these two types of joints are frequently used in making drawers, which
makes a lot of sense if you consider they are holding potentially heavy items and are
opened at least once or twice a day if not more.
Photo frames on the other hand are something that are very rarely touched and handled
after the artwork or photo is inserted and they are hung on a wall. In that case, it makes
sense that a simple miter butt joint will do!

What Tools Do You Have?

Another thing to consider is what tools you have available to you. While there are plenty
of great router bits and accessories that make cutting out sophisticated joints easy, it’s
not always in everyone’s budget to even own a router, let alone all the bits and
templates.

If budget is a concern, dowel joints are a great choice – all you really need are the wood
dowels which are usually sold in packages at hardwood stores and a drill and some
wood glue.

Box joints, dado joints, half lap joints, and rabbit joints are also good choices if you are
on a budget because you can typically make these very simply with just a saw.

Do You Want to Be Able to See the Joint?

There are arguments on both sides on whether a joint should be visible or not. Some
people who make decorative boxes for example might argue that a dovetail or finger
joint adds to the overall design.

On the other hand, someone may not like how the joint looks and instead opt for
“invisible” joints, such as a half blind dovetail joint, biscuit joints or dowel joints.
22 Woodworking Safety Tips & Guidelines to Follow
Woodworking can be a lot of fun, but it can also have a lot of hidden dangers and
hazards we don’t always think about. These 22 basic but very important woodworking
safety tips to help you prevent and avoid accidents and injuries.
Why Woodworking Safety is Important
No one ever wants to talk about woodworking safety rules or guidelines, but it is a very
important thing to learn as a beginner woodworker.
Many people are aware of the many dangers associated with woodworking and using
sharp power tools. While people may know the things they are supposed to do to stay
safe, this doesn’t mean that everyone actually practices basic safety.
The More Experienced You Are, The More Likely It Is You Will Have Accidents
It’s surprising for many to learn that many injuries and accidents happen to people who
are actually very experienced. Experience can often cause over confidence, or
sometimes lead to many people thinking they can get away without following safety
rules because they “know what they are doing”.
It is VERY important to remember we live in an ever changing unpredictable world. We
can’t predict when accidents will happen, even if we are very intuitive or very
experienced.
I should also write a full disclaimer here that I am a mom. By nature, my survival instinct
is to make sure everyone stays alive. I have what I call an “automatic mother reaction”
in almost any sort of dangerous situation. Sorry folks, but as a mom, I have to pull the
mom card here and say, “Safety First!”
There are other reasons for safety rules. There are a lot of advantages to staying safe.
While preventing injuries and accidents is the number one reason you would want to
stay safe, there are many other ways it can be very beneficial.
3 Additional Benefits When You Practice Good Woodworking Safety Habits
Not getting hurt is the top priority, but there are a lot of other great benefits to following
the basic safety rules for power tools and other fine woodworking.
1. Safety Saves You Time and Energy
It’s a huge pet peeve of mine that people will say that they “didn’t want to waste the
time” to go get the right tool or a pair of glasses or gloves.
Most likely, if you’re working on a project and your safety gear is not easily within reach,
you are probably wasting a lot of valuable time and energy by not working as efficiently
as you should be.
Whenever I build something, I follow a very specific process. I do all of my measuring
and cuts at the same time. This means that the gear I use for staying safe is right there
with my tools.
There are other advantages to cutting everything at once, in a place where my safety
gear is easily accessible. Making the majority of my cuts at one time means that the
wood doesn’t warp or bend if I’m working on a project that spans several days or weeks.
All too often I see people who start by cutting two boards and they then go to assemble
them before cutting the other materials they need for the project.
While this may make sense in some types of projects, in general the changing back and
forth between tasks can cost a lot of time and energy. If you are constantly switching
gears between different functions while working, you are also likely to run into other
issues.
For example, you may notice your wood swells or shrinks and doesn’t always line up
correctly. This means the pieces you cut last week don’t match up with the ones you cut
yesterday. Now you have to spend time “fixing” the problem instead of avoiding it in the
first place.
Beyond just being more practical, taking the time to be safe can prevent a lot of lost
time if an accident might happen. Think about the time it takes to sit in the waiting room
of a doctor’s office or emergency room. That can be hours.
Some injuries could also mean you may also lose time from being unable to work. If you
sprain your wrist for trying to lift something too heavy and are unable to put any stress
or weight on your wrist for a week, that can also cost a lot of valuable time.

2. Safety Saves You Money


Just as having a safe and efficient workflow in your building process can save you time,
it also saves you money. If you develop good safety habits, you are going to have a
more efficient work flow. This again translates into less mistakes and money saved on
wasted materials.
Saving money on project costs is great, but just think how much more money you will
save by not having to go to the doctor’s office or being faced with major medical bills.
Even minor injuries from carelessness can cost money – think how much money the
cost of bandaids and other first aid supplies can add up over the years.

3. You Can Teach Others to Be Safe: Lead By Example


A lot of people think wearing things like safety glasses and a dust mask looks dorky.
People don’t want to do those things because they’re afraid they won’t fit in. It’s time we
make safety cool and lead by example.
Just think how it could be if everyone practiced good habits when building and using
their tools. Those who didn’t use safety gear would look like the odd ones out rather
than the other way around.
You should also definitely want to “practice what you preach” if you are sharing your
woodworking skills and experience with others. This is especially true for kids, as setting
a good example will likely stay with them for a very long time.
If you are more experienced, it’s also important to remember just because you know
what you are doing doesn’t mean people who watch or learn from you do.You also don’t
know who might be watching or picking up on different things. We as humans learn from
observation.
Sometimes it’s helpful to think about what you are doing and whether or not you would
want someone who has never used a power saw before to do it the same way you do.
I’d be very nervous if one of my kids ever tried to run a nail gun the way I’ve seen some
professional contractors toss them around in the air!

If you are new to woodworking, get into the habit of doing things the safe way early.
Starting good habits early is a lot easier than trying to correct old habits.
Hopefully all of this will help convince you it really is WORTH learning what will help you
not get hurt while woodworking. No one wants to get hurt, and it certainly doesn’t hurt to
save money or time.
Now that we know why we want to practice woodworking safety habits, we’re ready to
talk about the basic rules and safety guidelines that are important to follow.

A List of Common Dangers, Hazards, and Cautions Involved With Woodworking


The first thing to do is to be aware of what types of hazards exist when you work with
various building materials and tools. Simply being aware of possible dangers and
problems can help you avoid a lot of accidents and injuries.
Electrocution Hazards
Electrocution hazards apply to a lot more than just power tools when you are building.
Even if you are using hand tools, it’s still important to consider other electrical hazards
in your environment, such as lights and extension cords.
Here are some common dangers and hazards to consider:
 Power tools use electricity. Some power tools have very high voltage.
 Power tools may still retain a charge even if not plugged in.
 Nailing, Drilling, Sawing or otherwise contacting any type of live electrical wire in
existing structures can result in electrical shock injuries.
Falling and Tripping Hazards
Anytime you are working on a DIY project or building something, there are always risks
of falling. Even if you aren’t on a ladder, it’s easy to slip, trip, or even be unexpectedly
hit by falling objects.
Here are some common things to look out for:
 Tangled Power cords.
 Ladders
 Paint Buckets
 Untied Shoelaces
 Leftover Wood & Other Materials
 Heavy Items Overhead
 Poorly stacked storage containers
 Wet/Slippery Surfaces
 Spilled Nails
Common Tool Hazards & Dangers
Working with different types of hand tools and power tools also presents many different
dangers and hazards to be aware of.
 Clothes, Gloves or Hair can get caught in drills, saws, or other tools which rotate
 Tools often have sharp edges, it is important to walk with them safely.
 Dull blades can cause slippage and accidents.
 Tools are most dangerous if tripped on – keep your workspace neat and tidy.
 Protect your hands with gloves to avoid blisters when doing repetitive tasks such
as sanding or carving.
22 Woodworking Safety Tips to Follow
These 22 tips are a basic overview of different things you can look out for and do to help
have fun and stay safe while woodworking. Most don’t require much extra effort and can
help you develop good habits and routines to see many benefits beyond just not getting
hurt.

1. Always Know Who is Nearby For Help: You should always have someone else
nearby who is available to call for help if needed. This could be another person who
lives with you or a neighbor.
2. Have an Emergency Plan: You should always have a basic emergency plan that
outlines what to do in case of emergency. This should include emergency contact
numbers, important medical conditions and any medications you are currently taking.
3. Have a First Aid Kit: With most accidents, being able to respond quickly matters.
Having first
4. Wear Safety Goggles: Eye protection while working is extremely important. Saw
dust can be very irritating, and if you get something in your eyes it can be very painful.
Safety goggles have come a long way in design and comfort. If you normally wear
glasses, you can also get prescription safety goggles.
5. Wear Gloves: Gloves are great for protecting your hands. Ideally, you should have at
least two pairs of gloves, with one pair at your shop and one pair in your truck. This can
help save you on a lot of splinters if you are transporting wood. Certain types of wood
can cause a lot of irritation due to the natural oils of the tree. Gloves will help avoid any
possible allergic reactions.
6. Wear the Right Clothes: Do not wear anything that may be loose enough to get
caught in power tools. Saws, drills, and other equipment can have high RPMs that could
pose a hazard. A good pair of steel toe work boots can help protect your toes.
7. Get the Saw Dust Under Control: Breathing in saw dust is not good for you at all. A
good dust collection system is very helpful in keeping your shop tidy and your lungs
happy.
8. Wear Protective Masks When Needed: Wearing protective masks can help reduce
your exposure to breathing in saw dust or fumes when working with certain finishes.
This is especially important if working with woods that have natural plant oils that can
cause irritation.
9. Protect Your Ears: Many power tools are very loud. Prolonged exposure to the
noise from equipment can cause hearing loss. A good pair of hearing protection ear
muffs can help make sure you do not damage your hearing.
10. Respect the Tools: Always use tools for the purpose they are intended for and in
the way they should be handled. Never be tempted to try to force something with the
wrong tool in a way it shouldn’t be used.
11. Keep your blades Sharp: Sharp blades will always ensure smoother cuts and less
problems.
12. Reduce Tripping Hazards: Be sure all power cords for any type of equipment,
including lights or radios, will not be easily tripped on. Use gaffer tape or electrical tape
to secure any extension cord wires in place to reduce tripping hazards if you must work
any distance away from a power outlet.
13. Do not overload circuits: At best, overloading circuits and outlets will mean blown
fuses in your circuit breaker boxes. Far more dangerous things can happen if you’re
running a saw and you suddenly lose all power and lighting.
14. Clean Up Your Mess: Accidents are much more likely to happen when your
workspace is cluttered or disorganized. Always clear away any wood cuttings and put
tools in their proper place. If something spills, clean it up immediately.
15. Use Caution With Existing Construction: If you are building into the walls of a
house or other existing structure, always check walls with a stud finder to locate hidden
electrical wires and outlets before drilling, nailing or sawing. Coming into contact with
live power lines can be very dangerous.
16. If in Doubt, Ask For Help: It’s always better to ask for help from a friend, family
member or fellow woodworker about how to use a tool correctly than to be shouting for
help because you hurt yourself. If you are unsure about DIY repairs you did around at
home, you can always hire someone to inspect your work.
17. Have Good Lighting: If you can’t see, you are more prone to make mistakes. Make
sure lighting fixtures will not cause a fire hazard. To avoid power cords from lamps and
lights, consider hard wiring shop lights.
18. Be Careful Around Water: Use caution in wet environments. Slippery surfaces can
cause trips and falls. You should also remember water conducts electricity. Outlets in
areas where water is present should be wired properly with GFCI receptacles.
19. Get Fresh Air: In addition to a good dust collection system, it can be helpful to have
a large fan or other type of ventilation system that provides fresh air when working.
Many materials can cause dangerous fumes, such as varnish and other wood finishing
treatments. If you are unable to have a proper ventilation system, work outdoors.
20. Practice Good Lifting Habits: Wood is heavy. The things you build might be
heavy. Ladders are heavy. Tools are heavy. Learn how to lift things properly to avoid
sprains and muscle soreness. Learn how to move materials in ways that reduce using
your own physical energy, such as a dolly or cart to move heavy objects.
21. Take Breaks: I know that it is easy for me to sometimes get frustrated while
working, especially when I am working on something that requires a lot of time to cut
and patience to assemble. Taking a 5 minute break every 25-30 minutes or so can help
you be more productive, not less.
22. Never work Under the Influence: Just as you wouldn’t want to drive a car if you
were drunk or taking medications that cause you to be drowsy, you should also not use
sharp blades or power tools which require an ability to have coordination, be alert and
execute judgement.
Some of these things may take a bit of effort to make a regular habit at first. Fortunately,
with enough practice and experience, safety comes easily and automatically.
Do you have any additional woodworking safety tips or rules to follow? What things do
you do to make sure your workspace is safe? What are some common hazards you
look out for? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.
15 Popular Types of Wood used in the Construction Industry!
Trees and wood have been an integral part of the development of our civilization.
Different types of wood have been used from early Paleolithic times for constructing
buildings, woodworking & DIY and manufacturing tools, weapons, and furniture. Right
from ancient times, the use of wood has been dependent on cost, quality, and
availability.
Wood is a hard-fibrous material forming the trunk and branches of trees or shrubs.
There are many structural and non-structural applications of the wood used in
construction. As wood is a general term, it is important to understand its application in
construction.
Wood is only second to stone in terms of its application in the world of construction. It is
a widely preferred material when it comes to building houses, shelters, and boats. The
chemical properties of wood are inherently complex, but despite this challenge, we have
successfully harnessed its unique characteristics to build a variety of composite
structures. Let’s understand why wood enjoys such popularity in the construction and
home decor segment.
Benefits of Using Wood in Construction
 Wood is a natural material that’s easy to work upon, widely available in huge
quantities, and has several varieties. Each type of wood can be used for specific
purposes.
 It is lightweight and sturdy, Further, it is available in a variety of patterns and
looks natural.
 The material has been used since ancient times. Therefore, skilled workers who
have adequate knowledge about the different types of wood are easily available
globally.
 Wood retains its thermal properties. Thus, it is highly resistant to high
temperatures.
 The heat conductivity of wood is relatively low in comparison to materials such as
aluminum, marble, steel, or glass.
 It can absorb sound and echo, making it a favorite material for the construction of
offices and residential structures.
 Wood is a bad conductor of electric waves. Hence, it’s perfect to provide
insulation to a living or working area.
 Wooden houses are inexpensive to build and extend and enjoy low running and
maintenance costs over a long period of time. However, this also depends on the
availability of wood in the local area.
 Wood paneling is particularly popular for ceilings, covering irregularities,
minimizing maintenance, and simplifying the fitting of lighting and the ventilation
system.
Different Types of Wood and their Uses
Wood can be broadly classified as Softwood and Hardwood. Density is a major
determinant of the strength of wood. Hardwoods, being denser than the softwoods, are
stronger and more durable.
According to ‘Madan Mehta, Walter Scarborough & Diane Armpriest’ (Author of Building
Construction), the difference between hardwood and softwood is not only based on the
density of the wood. This is because several hardwoods are lighter than softwoods.
Generally, the distinction between these two types of woods is based on their botanical
characteristics.
Let’s learn about the different types of wood used for furniture and in construction.

Different wood types available in nature possess different properties, color, texture, and
strength. As a homeowner, it’s important to know the different types of wood for building
and construction and their applications.
(a) Softwood
Softwood comes from the coniferous trees. These trees are also known as evergreen
trees as leaves do not fall till the new ones grow. Softwood usually grows in regions
having a cold climate. Coniferous trees grow fast; hence, they are less expensive as
compared to hardwood. They are more sustainable as they can be easily grown. There
are different types of softwood as mentioned below:
01. Pine Wood
Pinewood is a soft, white or light-yellow wood which is light in weight and straight-
grained. It resists shrinkage, swelling, and warping. Pine is very easy to shape and
stain. Pine decays easily when it comes in contact with soil. It grows in most parts of the
Northern Hemisphere. In India, it is found in the western Himalayas, Assam, and
Nagpur.

Uses:
It is used to make all kinds of indoor and outdoor furniture. It is also used to make
frames of doors and windows, flooring, and paving materials. Knotty pine is often used
for a decorative effect. It is also one of the sources of turpentine.
02. Cedar Wood
Cedarwood is a knotty softwood that has a red-brown color with light lines. Cedar is soft
as compared to other softwoods. The wood texture is uniform and highly resistant to
decay and insects. They are aromatic in nature. In India, it is found in Kashmir and
Assam.

Uses:
It is one of the famous wood types used for lining drawers, chests, and boxes. Simple
cases and storage closets are also constructed from this wood.
03. Firwood
Firwood is also referred to as Douglas Fir. Fir is straight grain and has a reddish-brown
color. It is uniform in texture and non-resinous and has poor resistance to decay. Fir is
hard in comparison to other softwoods. It cannot be stained easily; hence, it’s generally
used in the raw form or as a painted surface. Fir is found in North and Central America,
North Africa, Europe, and Asia. In India, it is found in Himachal Pradesh.

Uses:
It is used for furniture, doors, frames, windows, plywood, veneer, general millwork and
interior trim.
04. Spruce Wood
Spruce wood is strong and hard. It finishes well and has a low resistance to decay. It
has moderate shrinkage and is light in weight. Spruce is found in America, Europe,
Asia, Alaska, and Canada. In India, it is found in Western Himalaya and Sikkim.

Uses:
It is commonly used for masts and spars of ships, aircraft, crates, boxes, paneling,
cladding, general millwork, and ladders.
05. Hemlock Wood
Hemlock wood is light-weight and has moderate strength. It has a low resistance to
decay and is non-resinous. It’s found in the United States, Canada, Alaska, England,
and Eastern Asia. It is quite prone to shrinkage like other softwoods like firwood.
Uses:
It is used in the construction of lumber, planks, doors, boards, joinery, subflooring and
crates.
(b) Hardwood
Hardwood comes from deciduous trees that have broad leaves, produce fruits or nuts,
and are generally inactive in the winter. Hardwoods have a more dense structure in
comparison to softwoods. The different types of hardwood are described below.
06. Teakwood
Teakwood is one of the most popular types of hardwood. It is yellow to dark brown in
color and is extremely heavy, strong, durable, weather-resistant, warp-resistant, and
does not decay. Often strongly figured, teak may show straight grain pattern. The
natural oils in teak make them termite and pest-resistant. Teak does not burn easily. It is
quite expensive when compared to other wood types. It is generally found in central and
southern India. It is also one of the most preferred types of wood for furniture in India.

Uses:
It is commonly used as a structural wood for wooden framed houses, doors, windows,
and partitions. It is an excellent choice for outdoor furniture like garden benches and
lounge chairs. Most homeowners prefer teak for their indoor furniture like beds and
wardrobes. It is also used in veneer production.
07. Rosewood
Rosewood is very hard and has a dark reddish-brown color. It has a unique fragrance. It
is hard to work on and needs a lot of polishing. Rosewood is classified as Brazilian
rosewood, East India rosewood, Honduran rosewood, Amazon rosewood, Madagascar
rosewood, and others. East Indian rosewood is also known as Sheesham in Hindi.
Rosewood is considered to be very valuable. In India, it is generally found mostly in
Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Mysore, Bengal, Assam, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and
Orissa.
Uses:
According to ‘Mamta Bhattacharya’, ‘Archana Singh’, ‘Chhaya Ramrakhyani’, (Author of
Journal of Medicinal Plant Studies), Rosewood is used in musical instruments, piano
cases, tool handles, art projects, decorative veneers, and furniture. The extracts from
Indian rosewood or Sheesham are used to cure blood disorders, eye disorders, and
leprosy among other ailments.
08. Oak Wood
Oakwood is one of the most widely used types of hardwood. Oak can be distinguished
into two basic varieties: white and red. The red variety is also known as black oak (a
reference to its bark). It has a very distinct grain and finish. Oak is a heavy, strong, light-
colored hardwood. It is very easy to work on. It has good resistance to moisture, fungus,
and yeast. Oak is found in different parts of America, Asia, North Africa, and Europe.
Such types of hardwood trees are found in the north-eastern parts of India.

Uses:
It is an excellent choice for household and office furniture like bookshelves and
cabinets. It is also widely preferred for outdoor furniture. Due to its moisture-resistant
property, it is also used in ships and boats. In modern times, interior decor experts are
employing oak for flooring, timber-framed structures, and veneer production.
09. Maple Wood
Maple wood has a fine texture with great strength. It is so hard and resistant to shocks
that it is often used for constructing pathways. Maple is resistant to splitting and is highly
durable and easy to clean. Maple is found in Asia, North America, North Africa, Europe,
and Canada. In India, you can find maple trees in Ooty and other hilly regions.

Uses:
It is extensively used in making household furniture like console tables, wall shelves,
and bedside tables. Maple has a curly grain and is also used for the violin back.
10. Ash Wood
Ashwood is a hard, heavy, ring porous wood. Ash is well-known for its elasticity and
strength. It has a prominent grain that looks like oakwood and is white to light brown in
color. It is easy to work on with using screws, nails, and glue. It gives an attractive
finish. Ash is generally less in demand as compared to other hardwoods; therefore, it’s
less expensive compared to other wood types.

Uses:
Ash is widely used for structural frames and steam bent furniture pieces. It is used in
making guitars, drum shells, frames, sports equipment, ladders, and baseball bats.
Decorative veneers are produced from ash due to its interesting grain.
11. Mango Wood
Mango wood is dense and strong hardwood which comes with a distinctly attractive
grain pattern. Its grain is unique as it embodies several tones and colors, ranging from
light shades like dark brown with hints of light pink or green. It is lighter than other wood
types and highly water-resistant.

Foldable Portable Activity Table


Uses:
It is best used for living room and bedroom furniture, nesting tables, kitchen cabinets,
entertainment units and bookshelves.
12. Mahogany Wood
Mahogany wood is also known as Honduras. The wood is reddish-brown in color. It is
strong, with a uniform pore structure and poorly defined annual rings. It is an excellent
carving wood and finishes well. It takes stain very well, rendering a great finish to the
piece of furniture. One of its many advantages is that it doesn’t warp, swell, or shrink. It
can be used underwater too. According to ‘Vikash Kumar et al.’, (Author of Mahogany
(Swietenia macrophylla King): a suitable timber species for agroforestry), in India,
mahogany was planted in 1795 in Royal Botanical Garden in Kolkata. It is now found all
over India, particularly in Corbett National Park, Kaziranga National Park, and
Thattekkad Wildlife Sanctuary.
Uses:
It is most commonly used in fashion cabinets, nested tables, dining table sets, and other
types of indoor furniture. Mahogany is also used in boat building, window frames, sills,
and veneers.
13. Beech Wood
Beechwood is a hard, strong, and heavy wood with tiny pores. It is light pink in color and
is relatively inexpensive. Beech is tough and yet dimensionally unstable. It is very easy
to work with as it is highly resistant to splitting. Beech has less durability for prolonged
exterior use. It is found in Europe, Asia, and North America.

Uses:
Beech is often used for frames, a variety of bent and turned parts. Quarter sliced and
half-round cut beech veneers are commonly used. It is also used in flooring, plywood,
and other household items. It is rarely used as a decorative veneer. It makes a very
good firewood.
14. Cherry Wood
Cherry wood is sometimes called fruitwood. It is light to reddish-brown in color, hard,
strong, warp-resistant, and closed grained wood. It resists warping and checking. It is
easy to carve and polish. Cherry is mostly found in Europe and Asia. These trees are
found in the hilly regions of Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, and Himachal Pradesh.

Uses:
It works well when used for decorative carving and for making solid furniture like
cabinets, shelves, and tables.
15. Walnut Wood
Walnut wood is one of the most versatile and popular wood types with a very fine
texture. The wood is light to dark chocolate brown in color with a straight grain in the
trunk. Walnut is strong, hard and durable, without being excessively heavy, and warp-
resistant. It has excellent woodworking qualities and takes finishes well. It is very
expensive compared to other types of hardwood. Walnut is found in Europe, America,
and Asia. In India, it is found in Jammu and Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, and Himachal
Pradesh.

Uses:
It is an ideal wood choice for crafting dining table sets, coffee tables, veneer, musical
instruments, gun stocks, and decoration.
Wood is an ancient building material, used as construction material much
before cement came in. According to the United States Department of Agriculture
Forest Service, more than half of the wood types harvested in the forests is used as a
building material in the United States.
The natural beauty and long-lasting nature of wood can bring warmth and beauty to the
decor of our homes. Hence, wood is a common building material used in India.
Out of the many construction materials that we can choose from, wood stands out as a
unique and amazingly versatile product. Its aesthetic appeal, strength, insulation
qualities, and ease of fabrication makes it an ideal choice for an extensive array of
construction applications. A homeowner must choose the type of wood depending upon
its use and requirements and, if you’re bored while working at a jobsite, buy a loud
jobsite radio. It will help pass the time while completing your project.
7 Tips to Remove Colored Stain from Wooden Furniture
The colored stain on wooden furniture is caused due to various reasons. For example
when you’re restyling the salvaged furniture, you see your old stains of ink, dye, nail
polish etc. To remove stains from old/new wooden furniture you can try the following
tried and successful tips:

01. You can use dark colored stain to cover-up the lighter stain wood to look darker &
will ultimately remove stains from your wooden furniture.
02. If your furniture is stained with Aniline dye, then you can simply remove stains by
using bleach.
Note: You have to do this outdoors and you must also use a respirator or dust mask
while doing it.
03. To remove the dark colored stain rings from the wood; first scrape the entire surface
with sand paper, then make a solution (saturated) using oxalic acid crystals (wood
bleach powder) and apply this solution over the surface by using synthetic brush. Apply
it till the stain disappears.
Note: This treatment will raise the grains of wood, to resolve it use the sandpaper to
smoothen the surface. While doing it wear mask and of course do it at outdoors.
04. If there is a colored stain of nail polish on your wooden furniture, then take a plastic
knife with putty and lightly scrape the spill from the surface. By doing this the nail polish
should slip easily from the wood. If the spill is stubborn and not removed, then apply a
cloth which is dampened with hot water to the spill for a few seconds to loosen it, then
proceed with the plastic putty knife.
Note: Be sure to use only a plastic knife.
05. The nail polish colored stain can also be removed by applying denatured alcohol to
a cloth, & gently rubbing spill until it comes off.
Note: The Denatured alcohol (poisonous liquid – ethanol/methanol or also called as
thinner) is also used to remove stains or paint from woodwork treated with polyurethane
finish. Although denatured alcohol is milder than mineral spirits (paint thinner – naptha),
which will remove all paints and stains, but be careful not to rub too hard or too long, as
denatured alcohol will take up paint from the surface.
06. You can also use 0000-Grade fine stainless-steel wool to scrape away the dried nail
polish. It is a very fine wool that will be tough enough to remove the spill from the wood,
but soft enough not to damage the wood.
Note: By rubbing steel wool, If you take off some of the wood finish, then you can touch
up the treated area with a wood touch-up products, such as a wooden Felt-tip Pens or
wood finish stain marker.

07. If you find colored stain of ink on your wooden furniture, you can try out different
products to remove stains from your wooden furniture, like by using dish detergent,
baking soda, alcohol, tea oil, nail polish remover, Barbasol shaving cream, toothpaste,
window cleaner, & vinegar. etc.
Note: Just keep in mind, while using any product to remove stains as mentioned above,
it is a good idea to test in a non-noticeable area before going ahead with an entire piece
of Wooden furniture, which will save you from unknown problem.
Make Your Home Termite Free with these Termite Prevention Tips!
Termites are of the most destructive pests around the world. They can eat away your
wood furniture, under your nose. Termites cause loss of around 5 billion dollars
worldwide per year. Termites consume cellulose, which is found in the cell wall of
plants, woods, and in some clothes. As said, prevention is better than cure, and hence
taking preventing measures against termites may help you to avoid damages to your
home and ultimately saving your money. Here we have given termite prevention tips,
which can help you to keep your house safe from the termites.
Termites mate and emerge out in the spring season to establish new colonies. This is
the time when you can encounter termites often. Most people are not aware of how to
identify termites. Flying ants are sometimes mistaken as termites. The below image
shows the difference between an ant and a termite.

Courtesy - Bugs
By careful inspection, it is easy to differentiate between ants and termites. Flying ants
which are also known as carpenter ants have bent antennae. They have two sets of
wings, among which back wings are shorter in length than front wings. Winged termites
also have two sets of wings which are equal in length. They have straight antennae on
their head. Termites also live in colonies like ants. There are various classes of termites,
which perform different functions such as queen, king, reproductive termites, soldiers
and workers. Most commonly observed termites are workers, and soldiers.

Courtesy - Terminix
Here are some termite prevention tips, which can reduce the chances of termite
infestation in your house:
Termite Prevention Before Constructing a House:
The best termite prevention starts during the planning stage and also throughout the
construction. If you are constructing a house, you can plan such that there is no termite
infestation in the future. Here are some tips on how to prevent termites before
constructing a house.
 If possible construct concrete foundation for your home. Termites are not
attracted to concrete. If you are constructing a wooden foundation, then rest the
foundations on a concrete slab. Exposed wooden foundation can invite
underground termite colonies.
 Grading of soil must be done such that water drains away from the foundations.
 Before constructing your home, make a trench around your plot and layer of
basaltic termite barrier must be laid so that it can prevent termites from attacking
your house. Also, termiticide can be sprayed in that trench to create a barrier for
termites.
 If you are constructing a wooden framed house, then select timbers which are
chemically treated to resist termite attack. Naturally termite resistant wood is also
available from trees like cypress, pine, etc. Still, chemically treated timber has
more resistivity when compared with naturally termite resistant wood.
 Always use termite resistant fences to cover the perimeter of your plot.
 Assure that every room has proper ventilation so that humidity of your house is
low. High humid environment boosts the growth of termites.
 If you are constructing a decking in the garden or patio of your house,
select composite wood decking over natural wood decking. As composite wood
is made of sawdust and chemical resins, they do no attract termites.
 If wood flooring is to be laid in a new house, lay a layer of termite resisting
chemical before laying the flooring. It will save your expensive wood flooring from
the attack of termites.
 It is advisable to cover exposed wood surfaces with a proper sealant.
 If a storage room or an attic is to be constructed in your house, make sure it is
ventilated properly. Otherwise, in a humid atmosphere, it will attract termites.
 Remove wooden scaffolding immediately after the house is constructed, as they
attract termites and you give them access to your home.
Courtesy – Patton termite and pest
Termite Prevention in an Existing House:
There are many measures and precautions, which homeowners can take to prevent
termite infestation, in houses which are already built. Here are some tips on how to
prevent termites in an existing house:
 Termites grow in a humid climate, and hence it is desirable that humidity in your
house must be low.
 Repair broken roofing tiles immediately as it can give access to flying termites.
 Fix leaky faucets, pipes, and drains as they create a humid environment for
termite growth.
 Keep your air conditioner drain pipe away from the foundation of your home.
 Plant trees and shrubs at a distance from your exterior walls.
 Remove dead plants and tree trunks if any from your garden. As termites love
dead plants, they can attract them very easily.
 If you are storing firewood for cold winters, store them away from your house.
 Put old items or recyclable material in plastic boxes rather than cardboard.
Cardboard boxes can be easily eaten by termites.
 Furniture of chemically treated wood must be made or purchased. Wooden
furniture must be placed at some distance from walls. If possible you should
select furniture made of other materials such as glass, or metals.
 Wooden window and door frames must be checked regularly. They must be
properly sealed so that termites cannot access your home easily.
 Do not bury scarp wooden items, as they can be easily accessed by termites.
 If there are any cracks in exterior walls and foundations, they must be sealed
with grout or caulk.
 Put bug screens in drainage pipes and gutters so as to prevent the termites from
accessing your home.
 Carry out termite inspection regularly for wooden beams and frames. If you
struck a beam with your hand, it should make a solid sound. If it makes hollow
sound or echoes than, there are chances of termite infestation in it.
 Periodically check for any signs of termite infestation. Signs of a termite
infestation include mud tunnels, bubbles in the paint around your house, and any
holes in exposed wood.
The aforementioned termite prevention measures can reduce the possibility of a termite
infestation in your home if followed correctly. Unfortunately, there’s no guarantee that
you won’t get termites. If you suspect a termite infestation, contact a licensed pest
professional immediately to determine the extent of the problem and take an
appropriate course of treatment of termites. Finally, learn more about the cost of termite
tenting to be ready for future expenses.
Nails vs Screws: Which is Better for Furniture?
Nails and screws are among the popular types of fasteners which are most commonly
used by carpenters in their daily activities. Most of the time, carpenters use these tools
in many applications like doors, chairs, windows, furniture, etc. But, people are
confused, which is better for joining materials together, nails or screws?
When selecting fasteners, you need to consider the nature of the job and the materials
that are involved. Generally, nails are more popular among st the carpenters as they are
easy to work with it and save the time. However, when strength is more concern, you
need to use screws. When comparing nails vs screws, we need to consider few factors,
i.e. strength, material, size, cost, etc.
Here we give you a brief comparison of nails vs screws which is  helpful for you
to make the right choice:

Courtesy - uncomo, perfectaidea
01. Composition
Nail
Nails are consist of 3 parts; head, shank and point.
 The head of the nail is enlarged and flattened to allow easy hammering.
 The shank is the long thin portion of the nail. Nails hold materials together
through the friction created between the shank and the material.
 The nail point is the tapered portion at the end of the shank.

Courtesy - archtoolbox
Screws
Screws consist of 3 parts; head, threads, pitch
 The head of the screw has a recessed area that accepts a tool, such as a drill or
a screwdriver, which turns the screw into place.
 The threads are the helical ridges along the screw, which provide the friction that
keeps the two materials together.
 The pitch is the distance between threads.

Courtesy - archtoolbox
02. When to Use?
Nails
 Furniture that generates sideways pressure, i.e. lateral forces where material
would have the tendency to move left or right (sideways movement) this is when
you would use a nail.
 If you are making lightweight furniture where almost no load is coming and nails
are acting as only glue, then you can use nails. For example, if you are making
drawer bottom, cabinet framing, etc. then you can use nails.
Screws
 Furniture that will try and separate from the top or bottom, then you can use a
screw.
 Screw is recommended for making furniture of plywood, blockboard, MDF, etc.
as it has a good holding strength. When strength is a larger concern, i.e. at all
joints, then you can use screws. For example, If you are making a wardrobe,
modular kitchen, chair, etc. then you can use screw as it has good holding
strength.
 If you are making long shelves, benches, tables, etc. where length of the furniture
is more than 6-7 ft. then you can use screw.
03. Material
Nails
 Nails are generally made up of mild steel, although it can be made of aluminium,
brass, or many other metals.
Screws
 Screws are made up of brass, stainless steel, M.S. coated with chrome, etc.
04. Types
Nails
 Round Wire Nail, Oval Wire Nail, Finishing Nails, etc. are types of nails
commonly used in making furniture.
Screws
 There are various types of screw like, Countersunk Screw, Raised Screw, Round
Screw, etc.
05. Strength
Nails
 Nails have higher shear strength compared to screws.
Screws
 Screws have a much higher tensile strength compared to nails.
06. Flexibility
Nails
 Nails are more flexible. If you hit with a hammer at a bad angle it will bend.
Screws
 Screws don’t have that flexibility in comparison of nails.
07. Rust Resistance
Nails
 Nails are less resistant to rust.
Screws
 They are highly resistant to rust and prevent moisture to come in contact with its
metal.
08. Advantages
Nails
 Nails are cheaper than the screw.
 They can be installed faster. Two or four blows from a good hammer and you can
drive a nail all the way into the wood.
 Finishing nails can be easily hidden on furniture surface as it has a small head.
 In lightweight furniture, where almost no load is coming, then you can use nails.
 If you accidentally bend a nail by hitting it at the wrong angle, you may be able to
hammer it straight again and reuse it.
Screws
 Screws are very strong.
 The screw is recommended for making furniture of plywood, MDF, etc. as it has a
good holding strength.
 They are highly resistant to rust and prevent moisture to come in contact with its
metal. This makes it more preferable for a long-term solution than nails.
 With the availability of screws in different sizes with varying thread, patterns offer
great chance to choose as per requirement for long term strength.
 They are easier to remove than nails.
 With screws, you can decide where exactly to put them in and install them slowly
and methodically with the use of drill or screwdriver.
09. Disadvantages
Nails
 Nails are not recommended for plywood, blockboard, etc. as when nails are
hammered; nails get bent or even split the wood.
 Nails do not have good holding capacity as compared to screw.
 Nails are installed with the use of hammer which requires more force to install.
Screws
 The head of the screws are usually larger than its body, therefore it becomes
difficult to hide it discretely.
 It requires skilled labour for installation.
 It is not flexible as compared to nails.
10. Size
Nails
 The size of the nails depends on where you want to use the nails. Generally, the
size of the nails is 1/2 inch to 5 inch.
Screws
 The most common gauges (screw’s diameter) are between 2mm and 16 mm
diameter and 0.25 to 3.5 inch length.
11. Cost
Nails
 They are less expensive than screw. The cost of the nails depends upon the size
of nails and materials.
Screws
 Screws are more expensive than nails. The cost of the screws depends upon the
size and material.
Special Comment
From the above comparison on nails vs screws, we can conclude that though nails and
screws, both are used for same purpose, screws have more holding strength than nails
and hence are always better option. Therefore you need to make rational and judicial
choice as per your specific needs.
Acrylic Finish VS Laminate Finish: Select the Best for your Kitchen Cabinets!!!
There are various components of a kitchen which assemble together to create a
stunningly beautiful looking modular kitchen. The cabinets are the most essential parts
of a kitchen which decide the overall look and appearance of the kitchen and
differentiate between the average looking and a great modular kitchen. It is important to
take some time to choose the best finish for your kitchen cabinets. Presently there are
various cabinet finishes available in the market such as acrylic finish, membrane finish,
laminate finish, stainless steel finish, etc.

To install kitchen cabinets, there is a whole wide range available in different finishes and
different materials all together you can select from. If you don’t want wood, you have
plastic. If not plastic, how about glass?
Acrylic finish and laminate finish are the most popular options among all the finishes of
kitchen cabinets. Visual appeal, pricing and durability are some of the aspects in which
they differ from each other. It is important to learn a few of the things about both the
finishes to choose for a cabinet that compliments the kitchen aesthetics and increase its
décor value.
Acrylic Finish
Acrylic is made up of Polymethyl Methacrylate material. It is commercially available as
Crylux, Plexiglas, Lucite, etc. This material is presently achieving importance in the field
of the modular kitchen. It gives a high gloss finish to the kitchen cabinet. This finish is
quite similar to lacquer(coating) finish.
The acrylic finish should be your choice if you are looking to make your cabinets look
perfectly smooth and reflective.
Laminate Finish
On the other hand, laminate finishes are quite different. It is a composite artificial
material made by pressing thin layers of plastic resin and paper together having a
pattern and/or colour on top. Kitchen cabinets with laminate finish are made by pressing
them in factories using high pressure automated machinery.

Pros and Cons of Acrylic Finish and Laminate Finish


There are various aspects on basis of which both the finishes are differentiated. On that
basis, there are pros and cons of both the finishes. Let’s see that
(a) Aesthetic Appeal
 Acrylic cabinets with premium high-gloss finish are the preferred option for high-
end kitchens as it can add visual space and an appealing interest hence
increasing the décor value of the kitchen.
 Laminate cabinets are also available in gloss finish but the look is dull, less
reflective and less-striking as compared to acrylic cabinets.
(b) Maintenance
 Acrylic finishes are scratch-resistant. Any fingerprint marks or stains are easier to
clean and remove from acrylic finish modules. Use a mild soap & water mixture
with a gentle cleaning cloth for cleaning of surfaces.
 In comparison with Acrylic finish, a laminate is highly resistant to scratch and
abrasion. Sweeping or vacuuming is typical and it is all that takes to clean the
laminate.

(c) Durability
 Acrylic finishes retain their colour and smooth gloss for a long period of time.
Most acrylics used in the market for furniture are generally UV stabilized for good
weather ability and resistance to exposure of prolonged sunlight.
 They have good resistance to moisture and heat and can be treated for
antibacterial properties as well.
(d) Varieties and Colour
 Acrylic finishes are available in plenty of colours that are bright and vibrant and
they retain their colour and gloss for a long period of time.
 The variety in laminate finishes available is higher and includes matt, glossy,
ultra high gloss. Along with a various range of colours, they are also available in
various textures including that of wood.
(e) Cost and Budget
 Acrylic finished cabinets are way too expensive when compared to laminates as
they offer various properties such as reflective and smooth finish, easy to clean,
etc.
 It is ideal for those on a budget as laminate finish offer variety and durability at a
significantly lower cost as compared to the acrylic finish
(f) Repairable
 Hazing or fine scratching and colour of sheet keeps on eventual changing to
yellow if the surface is cleaned using glass cleaning spray or products containing
ammonia.
 Once the top layer of laminate has worn out, the whole sheet needs to be
replaced.
Finally, what to choose?
Nowadays, there is a trending combination of both acrylic and laminate finished
cabinets in a modular kitchen. Acrylic finish is preferred to use for upper cabinets for
their glossy and attractive look as lighting tends to highlight them. Lower cabinets can
be made of laminate finishes due to its continuous use as they are highly durable and
has good resistance to wear and tear.
Above listed were the points to be considered for selecting the acrylic finish and
laminate finish for your modular kitchen. Depending on your use, budget and taste,
decide on the best finish for your kitchen cabinets to enhance the overall look and feel
of your modular kitchen.

How To Apply Wood Veneer Sheets: Follow These Simple Steps!

Wood veneer is a thin slice of real wood that is glued on to different types of engineered
woods such as plywood, MDF, blockboard, particle board, etc. to give a finishing look.
Many carpenters use wood veneer to improve aesthetics of kitchen cabinets. The
standard thickness of the wood veneer is generally between 1mm to 4mm. Wood
veneer is available in different types, based on types of wood species, based on
matches, based on cut, etc. Applying wood veneer sheets is an easy task if done
properly.
Here we have given simple steps on how to apply wood veneer sheets:
Step – 1: Preparation
Inspect the wood veneer sheets properly for any impurity or deformation. Select a
section of the veneer that is free from any cracks or defects as this could interfere with
the overall finish. Allow these sheets to acclimate in your environment for 48 to 72
hours. This is been done so that the sheets may change their dimensions slightly
depending upon the temperature and humidity.
Step – 2: Setting the Dimensions
Before veneer application, you need to cut the wood veneer sheets according to the
dimensions of the substrate. Place the substrate over the desired section of the veneer
sheet and mark the required size on the sheet accounting half an inch extra on each
side.

Step – 3: Applying the Adhesive


Figure out the bottom side of the wood veneer, and apply adhesive recommended by
wood veneer manufacturers. Generally contact cement which is a type of liquid glue is
used for veneer application. Mark sheets with a pencil to avoid any confusion. Now,
apply the adhesive on the top side of the substrate and using a spreader, spread out the
adhesive nicely and evenly all over it.

Courtesy - Instructables
Step – 4: Veneer Application
Align the wood veneer sheets and the substrate and stick the sheets carefully on the
surface of a substrate. Take extra caution while positioning the two elements so that
you can get a proper alignment. Press the sheet to ensure it has stuck properly. Use
lacquer thinner to remove excess glue.

Step – 5: Apply Pressure


Now roll over a J – roller on wood veneer sheet and apply maximum pressure. It is
recommended that you start from the center and work your way out towards the edges.
This is done so as to remove any air bubbles formed if any and also extra glue is also
removed. Now using a smoothing blade, smoothen the veneer surface and verify that
the wood veneer is completely adhered.

Courtesy - DIYnetwork
Step – 6: Cutting the Excess Veneer
Excess wood veneer must be trimmed off using a razor knife.

Courtesy - Official North Nottinghamshire College Channel


Step – 7: Finishing
Allow the piece to dry completely for 24 hours before finishing it. For perfect finish it is
necessary to sand the wood veneer. Sandpaper must be used to refine the surface and
veins of veneer. You can stain the veneer using different types of wood finishes. For a
final check, run your hands over the area to make sure that the area is free from any
defects.

Courtesy - Official North Nottinghamshire College Channel


Once the wood veneer sheets are applied to the substrate properly, you can polish
them to make them shiny and improve the durability. The aforementioned steps provide
a simple guide on how to apply wood veneer sheets. For a perfect finish, it is
recommended to contact an expert carpenters.
15 Things to Know Before Installing Vinyl Flooring or PVC Flooring
Furniture and fittings in your home may keep changing with time but your floor covering
is something that will remain for a long period of time. Therefore you need to make the
right choice. Choosing new flooring for your home is never an easy process.  With so
many types of flooring available in the market, i.e. stone, wooden, tiles, PVC or Vinyl,
etc. it is easy to get confused when deciding the best type of flooring solution for your
home. Among them, PVC flooring is popular flooring type nowadays because of its cost-
effective nature and sleek appearance.
PVC flooring is popularly known as vinyl flooring. It is more suitable for the cold climate.
Vinyl flooring is composed of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and are made in layers. It is
available as tiles, planks, or sheets form. PVC or vinyl flooring comes in many different
patterns and styles such as wood, carpet, etc.

01. Uses
It is suitable for low traffic areas. Vinyl flooring is a perfect choice for areas that are
prone to spills and moisture such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, etc.
02. Durability
PVC flooring is durable as it is easy to clean and maintain. It has resistant to water and
moisture as compared to other types of flooring. However, with the heavy loads, it can
be damaged by sharp and heavy objects.
03. Types of Vinyl Flooring or PVC Flooring
(a) PVC or Vinyl Tiles
Vinyl tiles are mostly square and can offer the look of real stone or ceramic floors. If
there is any sort of damage during use, one can simply even remove the tiles and
replace it with a new one.  So when you buy, always keep some in stock for such future
needs.
Vinyl Tiles
(b) PVC or Vinyl Sheet Flooring
Vinyl sheet flooring is made up of large rolls without using much labour to cut the
material, due to this, there is not much of wastage. It is usually laid without having
grooves, unlike tiles.

Vinyl Sheet Flooring


(c) PVC or Vinyl Planks Flooring
Vinyl planks flooring comes in long, narrow strips.  It is easy to install and give you the
look of hardwood.

Vinyl Planks Flooring


04. Easy Installation
Vinyl flooring installation is easy as compared to other types of flooring. It can be
installed over concrete, hardwood or plywood. The great thing about PVC or vinyl tiles is
their ease of installation. Vinyl tiles are also easy to replace if you decide to remove
them in the future. However, it requires accurate measurement for installation.
However, the repairing of dents or damages is difficult to repair. It is preferred when it is
not possible to get additional thickness to cut doors.
05. Water Resistant
Vinyl sheet flooring is resistant to water and moisture as compared to any other types of
flooring. Basically, there are no joints that allow water to seep in and damage the sub-
floor.
06. Easy to Clean
PVC flooring is stain resistant. Any spillages like oil, grease, acids, etc. are easy to
clean with damp cloth.
07. Light Weight
Vinyl flooring is light weight as compared to other types of flooring and hence it is easy
to install.
08. Maintenance
It requires very little maintenance. You just need to sweep regularly and use a damp
mop to keep your floors sparkling.
09. Fading
Colours can fade with exposure to too much direct sunlight and floors can also get
damaged by extreme temperatures.
10. Surface Irregularities
Improper preparation of the subfloor leads to uneven installation of vinyl flooring. This
allows moisture to penetrate causing it to lift and warp. Due to shiny appearance, any
damage to PVC flooring will get easily reflected. Therefore a perfectly levelled, smooth
subfloor is a must for installation of vinyl flooring.
11. Scratch Resistant
Vinyl flooring is soft, and hence it is prone to dents and scratches which often leave a
bad impact on the surface of the vinyl floor.
 12. Life
Please, however, note that vinyl flooring has a limited life, say 10 to 15 years.
13. Health Concern
Vinyl flooring emits high Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) which is harmful for human
health.
14. Size
 Vinyl Sheet Flooring: The standard width of vinyl flooring sheets or rolls in
continuous lengths shall be 1000 mm to 2000 mm.
 Vinyl Tiles: The tiles shall be 250 mm, 300 mm, 600 mm and 900 mm square.
 Vinyl Planks Flooring: 100 to 200 mm width and 900 to 1200mm length
Thickness: The standard thickness of vinyl flooring shall be 1.5mm to 3.0 mm
15. Cost
The major advantage of vinyl flooring is that they are inexpensive than other type of
flooring.
Flooring is a big part of your home so be sure to take time and consider what you need
from your floor and how PVC flooring or vinyl flooring can meet these requirements. If
you want to estimate the cost of your flooring then check out the flooring cost
estimators.

Veneer vs Laminate: Make the Right Choice


The main use of both veneers and laminates is to provide a decorative surface, which
gives a finishing touch to the interior design. Though being used for the same purpose
these materials are poles apart in their properties, availability, life cycle, cost, etc. When
we compare veneer vs laminate, both have their own pros and cons. Hence, here we
have tried to provide a brief comparison of veneer vs laminate to help you make the
correct choice while choosing the finishes of your house furniture.

01. Material
Veneer
 Veneer is a very thin slice of wood which is obtained by peeling a tree log.
Laminate
 Laminate is an artificial material made from decorative papers and plastic resins.
02. Uses
Veneer
 Used at places which are less prone to wear and tear.
 Used where premium finish, touch and feel is important.
 Example: Conference rooms, Luxurious Home Interiors, Walls, etc.
Laminate
 It is the best choice for areas which are prone to wear and tear.
 Used where durability, impact and scratch resistance is important.
 Example: Tabletops, Office Furniture, Cabinetries, Doors, etc.
03. Properties
(a) Resistance to Physical Components
(i) Water
Veneer
 It is susceptible to damage in presence of water as water is known to damage
the polish and eventually the wood surface.
Laminate
 It can resist water up to a certain extent.
(ii) Abrasion and Scratch
Veneer
 Veneers have less resistant to abrasion and scratches as compared to
laminates.
Laminate
 The surface of laminate is hard and resistant to abrasion and scratching.
(iii) Warping and Fragmentation
Veneer
 It is resistant to warping and fragmentation.
Laminate
 It is not resistant to warping and fragmentation.
(iv) Clipping
Veneer
 Veneer has high resistance to clipping as compared to laminates.
Laminate
 It is a brittle material hence prone to clipping.
(b) Appearance
Veneer
 Each sheet is unique and exclusive and gives everlasting value to furniture.
Laminate
 It is available in numerous designs, patterns, colors and textures. The patterns
are repetitive in nature.
(c) Surface Finish
Veneer
 The surface can be customized by polishing or painting.
Laminate
 The surface cannot be painted or polished.
(d) Replacement
Veneer
 As the sheets are exclusive, once the sheet is damaged a similar replacement is
never available.
Laminate
 Similar looking sheets can be manufactured if needed.
(e) Toxicity
Veneer
 As it is a natural material, it is non-toxic.
Laminate
 It is toxic as it is known to emit VOC’s.
(e) Recyclability
Veneer
 It can be recycled.
Laminate
 Once damaged, laminates cannot be recycled.
(g) Strength and Durability
Veneer
 Veneers have less strength and durability than that of laminate.
Laminate
 It has high strength and durability compared to other finishing materials.
04. Size
Veneer
Standard Thickness:
 8 mm to 4 mm in a standard veneer
Standard Length and Width:
 4 feet to 12 feet long (1220 mm to 3658 mm )
 4 feet wide (1220 mm)
Laminate
Standard Thickness:
 6 mm to 1.8 mm thick plain sheets.
 3mm to 18 mm thickness in self-supporting compact laminate sheets.
Standard Length and Width:
 8 feet x 4 feet (2438 mm x 1219 mm)
05. Installation
Veneer
 Its installation requires special skills, instruments and adhesives.
 It cannot be installed over any existing surface.
  Post processing is required before applying finish to the veneer surface. (Before
applying the final polish, veneer has to be smoothen using sandpaper.) Thus it
requires more time for installation.
Laminate
 Easy to install as no special skills and instruments are required.
 It can be installed over any existing surface.
 No post-processing is required as the laminate is a finished product.
06. Maintenance
Veneer
 The surface has to be re-polished periodically.
 It requires high maintenance as it is a natural wood product.
 Special care has to be taken while cleaning the surface to prevent damage.
Laminate
 No polishing is needed.
 It is very easy to maintain as the surface is resistant to physical damage.
 Wiping with a damp cloth or vacuuming is all it takes to clean the surface.
07. Life
Veneer
 If timely polishing and proper care is taken the material is known to last longer
than laminates.
Laminate
 It lasts only till the top layer is not damaged. Once the top layer is worn out the
entire surface has to be replaced.
08. Cost
Veneer
 It is generally costlier than laminates.
Laminate
 It is more economical than veneer.
 (a) Material Cost
Veneer
 The price of veneer sheets is always calculated per square foot.
 Its price may vary depending on the type of wood species, type of cut and
thickness of the sheet.
 The price approximately ranges from 70Rs /sq. ft. to 9000Rs/sq. ft.
Laminate
 The price of a laminate is always calculated per sheet.
 Its price may vary depending on the properties as well as the thickness of the
sheet (0.8, 1, 1.25mm).
 The price approximately ranges from 600Rs/sheet to 6000Rs/sheet.
(b) Life Cycle Cost
Veneer
 The maintenance cost of the veneer is very high.
Laminate
 Maintenance cost is negligible.
09. Types
Veneer
Veneers are classified on the basis of :
 Use
 Types of wood species
 Veneer cutting
 Backing
 Matches
 Grains of wood
Laminate
Laminates are classified on the basis of:
 Pressure applied
 Thickness
 Use
 Surface finish
 Advanced properties
Special Comments
 If you need good aesthetics and have a luxurious budget, a veneer is
recommended. However, laminates go hand in hand as far as general use is
concerned.
 From the above comparison of veneer vs laminate, the user needs to make a
judicial and rational choice.

7 Uses of Particle Board in Building Industry


Particle board is gaining popularity as a building material due to its varieties of
application and cheap rates. Particle board is an eco-friendly material as it uses wood
wastes such as wood chips, sawdust and wood shavings mixed together with a resin to
form boards. They are sometimes used as an alternative to plywood or medium density
fiberboard to lower down the construction cost. Particle board has a wide range of
applications, which a homeowner must know, before buying it. Here we brief about uses
of particle board in building industry.
There are various uses of particle board in the construction industry which are as
follows:
01. Uses of Particle Board in Flooring:
Particle board is used as a flooring material in temporary structures where there is less
application of loads. Also it is widely used as covering for hardwood floors, as hardwood
boards have low resistance to scratches to protect them. Wood veneer particle board or
laminated particle board is used in flooring where finished aesthetic look is desired.

02. Uses of Particle Board in Flooring Underlayment:


Particle board is extensively used as flooring underlayment or as a base for parquet
flooring, wood flooring, or for carpets. For this purpose, the particle boards are treated
with special chemicals and resins to make them waterproof or termite proof.
03. Uses of Particle Board in Partitioning or Wall Paneling:
Particle boards are used in wall partitions, as they are non-load bearing members in the
structure. For cost-effective options, particle boards can be used as they have thermal
and sound insulation properties. Laminated particle boards are extensively used in wall
panels as they give finished walls. You can select from a variety of design in laminated
particle boards for wall panels.

04. Uses of Particle Board in False Ceilings:


Laminated particle boards and cement particle boards are widely used in false ceilings. 
Due to their thermal insulation properties they are extensively used in false ceilings for
centrally air-conditioned rooms. Particle boards are extensively used as ceiling tiles for
auditoriums, computer centers, cinema halls and theaters and in as display boards in
commercial establishments. In building construction it is used in false ceiling and
paneling due to its thermo-acoustic insulation properties.
05. Uses of Particle Board in Core Material for Doors:
Particle boards are also used as a core material in solid core doors as well as in flush
doors. Particle core is the most commonly used in manufacturing doors, as it provides
flat and smooth surface for bonding with the door skin. It also has good screw-holding
capacity for fixing hinges, unlike medium density fibreboard.

06. Uses of Particle Board in Furniture:


There are numerous uses of particle board in furniture industry. Particle boards are
extensively used in residential as well as office furniture. Wood veneer particle board
are gaining popularity as they are durable and perform better in moist environment as
compared to plain particle board. So they are used in kitchen areas and bathrooms in
the form of modular kitchen cabinets, storage units, countertops, table tops, wardrobes
and dressing units. Plain particle boards are useful in interior areas like bedrooms which
have beds, wardrobes, storage units, etc. It is also used in making shoe racks,
computer tables, book shelves, television cabinets, etc.
Nowadays office furniture is mass-produced by using particle boards. Readymade units
of office furniture are directly supplied to the offices with decorative laminated particle
board tops.
07. Uses of Particle Board in Commercial Industry:
On commercial scale, particle boards are used in television, speaker boxes, sewing
machine tops, display boards, automobiles’ parts and in other products which requires
furnished surfaces. Wood veneer particle boards are very extensively used in this
industry.

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