Tourbillon Mechanica

Tri-Axial
- Printing & Assembly Guide -
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• The Triple Axis Tourbillon is, to me, one of the greatest mechanical eye-candy that I’ve ever feasted my eyes
upon. It is a mysterious and complex mechanism that is powered by a nothing more than a wound-up
spring. As a mechanical engineer who is not a watch or clockmaker, this project is extremely challenging to
say the least. I was able to leverage on the experience of designing the Tourbillon Mechanica but the
addition of that extra dimension in the design and mechanical approach brings about a new set of
challenges.

• What is a Triple Axis Tourbillon? It is an escapement mechanism that rotates about 3 independent axis in
order to cancel out the e ect of gravity towards the frequency variation of the escapement mechanism. It
does not have any perceivable improvement for a 3D printed clock that is already limited in terms of
accuracy to begin with. However, I think that it has a great mechanical and artistic element and that was the
main motivation for the creation of this mechanical sculpture.

• Although the clock is designed to be functional, is not an accurate timekeeping device due to the nature of
plastic materials and large printing tolerances. It is designed to be a functional mechanical sculpture that
allow users to understand and experience the construction of the mechanism that costs well beyond
$300,000 that can only be found in ultra luxury high end watches such as the Girard-Perregaux Triaxial,
Jaeger Le-Coultre Gyro Tourbillons, Cabestan, and Harry Winston to name a few.

• I’ve spent a tremendous amount of time to re ne the design and assembly guide in attempt to make the
printing and assembly experience as simple as possible. However, do expect some minor issues and errors
in the beginning phase of the release and any private message feedback via MyMiniFactory will be valuable
in order to drive iterative improvements along the way.
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• Approximate run time

• PETG Spring - 10 to 15 minutes

• Steel Spring - 45 to 90 minutes

• Approximate material consumption : 700g

• Approximate total print time : 140h

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Required Tools Assembly Hardwares
Part Illustration Link Remarks Part Qty Link Remarks
Ali Express

Dremel (any model will do) Amazon For cutting Ø1.5mm pins to 1.5mm Pin 5 Main Pins for all the gears in the assembly
Amazon
required length only. Not
mandatory to use a Dremel, any Ali Express

Bearing (7x11x3 mm) 1

Dremel Diamond Cutting other suitable cutting tools can Amazon
Amazon also be used
Disc Ali Express
Bearing for each tourbillon axis. Be sure to get the
Bearing (10X15X4 mm) 1 Rubber sealed version as we will be removing the
Amazon seal to remove the grease within the bearing
Drill Bits (1.5mm outer For Gear pin hole preparation (see
Ali Express Ali Express

diameter) slide 6) Bearing (20X32X7 mm) 1

Amazon

M2X5 Screw 31
Drill Bit Holder Ali Express To hold the 1.5mm drill bits
M2X8 Screw 18
Highly recommend to use ball
Allen Wrench for M2, M2.5 M2.5X6 Screw 3
Amazon head Allen wrench for tight space
and M3 screws
access
M2.5X8 Screw 3
For positioning and holding pins Fastening and Weight Balancing screws

Pliers Ali Express

during knocking M2.5X10 Screw 3 Purchase slightly more than the listed qty (they
Amazon tend to go missing)
For knocking Ø1.5mm pins into M3X8 Screw 2
Small Hammer / Large
base. You can also use the hand
Allen Wrench M3X10 Screw 3
plier

For measuring pin lengths after M3X12 Screw 3

Ruler / Vernier Caliper
cutting
M3X18 Screw 2

For xing broken parts and M2.5 Nut 6

Super Glue Ali Express

securing loose ts Tourbillon Weight Balancing

Amazon
M3 Nut 6
For Blobs, Elephants foot and burr
Hobby Pen Knife
Removal
Misumi SG
Misumi Part Number: SFGSML0.2

Rubbing Alcohol / Misumi UK

Recommended spring dimension:

Just a small amount will do, to be Mainspring 2 Misumi US

• Thickness - 0.2mm

Ethanol / Isopropyl
used for Bearing grease removal Clockworks
• Width (10-13mm)

Alcohol / Grease Solvent

Amazon DE • Length (2-3m)

[Optional] M2/M3 wrench Amazon For threading the printed threads

Note: You can always try sourcing for similar parts at your local hardware store /websites.
The item links are meant to be used as a reference
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Split body print illustration
3D Printer 180mm

Part Details Remarks Prusa Mini Build Area

• 230x230 (CrealityEnder 3 equivalent)

• Required for printing the largest part of the assembly (Base) as a unibody part. Please download
• 210X250 (Prusa Mk2/3 equivalent)

the Base stl here and perform a t check for your printer.

Minimum Bed Size New Split Base Option! Refer to next slide • There is also a split base option for those with smaller build plate sizes.

for assembly details • Important Note: The O cial Ender 3 build volume is 220 X 220 but the actual available print area
• 150mmX150mm is 235 x 235mm. Read this guide for more info

180mm
Nozzle Diameter • 0.3mm
• If you are unable to get a 0.3mm nozzle, 0.25mm works as well
• 0.4mm

Filament • PLA
• Use high quality lament or ones that you are very comfortable printing with. I mainly use
• PETG Prusament and Hatchbox

Unibody print illustration

Ender 3 Build Area Prusa Mk2/3 Build Area
230mm

250mm

230mm

210mm
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01_Bottom_Base_Split_Left 01_Bottom_Base_Split_Right

Apply a generous amount of glue and spread them evenly

to the surfaces highlighted in red. Ensure that there are no
elephants foot between all adhesion surfaces

01_Bottom_Base_Split_Mid

02_Upper_Base_Split_Left 02_Upper_Base_Split_Right

Make sure that you are doing this on a at

surface. Apply pressure and hold for a
couple of minutes to allow the glue to cure

02_Upper_Base_Split_Mid

Optional: The bottom side of the seam line

has a chamfer feature to compensate for
elephants foot. You may apply additional
glue to ll up the “canal” of the seam line to
improve adhesion strength
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• Pin lengths are not required to be cut to high precision. +/- 0.5mm is ne.

• It is crucial to have a chamfered feature at each ends of the pin. If u are using
a Dremel, simply use a grinding tool to grind the edges of the pin at an angle
while rotating the pin with your other hand. If u do not have a Dremel, a le or
sandpaper will also work although it will require more time and e ort.

• If you do not have a Dremel, there is an alternative guide that was kindly
shared by user Knorke74 via the link here

• The table below lists all the pin lengths that are required for the assembly
1) Measure the and mark the pins 2) Cut the pins to be slightly longer than the desired length

Ø1.5mm Pin
Qty Assembly Phase
Lengths (mm)
9.5 1 Minute Transmission 1

13.5 6 Retrograde Spring & Transmission, Escape Wheel & Fork

17.0 6 Winding Gear, Retrograde Transmission, Ratchet Transmission

19.0 2 Axis 2 Transmission

21.0 5 Ratchet Gear, Ratchet Tooth, Min Transmission 2

23.0 2 Axis 1 Impulse Pin, Winding Gear 3

25.0 7 Retrograde, Axis 1 Transmission, Axis 3 Runner, Min Transmission 3

27.0 1 Hour Transmission 3 3) Measure the pin and grind it down to the correct length 4) remove burrs and introduce chamfer at both ends by
38.0 7 Base grinding the pin at an angle while rotating it

5) The pin should look like the one in the picture above,
with both ends to have some chamfer
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Pin-Hole Preparation Inspection
• All printed gears will require pin hole nishing to achieve the best pin tting and smooth rotation
with minimal friction.

• Due to printing tolerances, It is impossible to have a Ø1.5mm pin diameter that will yield a smooth
slight surface unevenness are
transition t right o the print bed. A loose pin-gear tting will introduce signi cant backlash in the
ne as long as gears are still
system. Hence Pin hole preparation is extremely critical as follows: able to mesh properly

• Printed gears should be free from blobs, stringing, excessive layer shifts, and elephant’s
foot. Blobs and small amount of elephants foot can be removed using a hobby pen knife.
Minor layer inconsistencies are ne as long as the gear meshing is su ciently smooth. An
example of a good gear tooth is is shown below:

Step 1: Use a 1.5 drill bit with a hand plier or a drill bit holder. Hold the 3D printed gear with another • If excessive stringing is observed, enable “combing mode” in Cura or “Avoid Crossing
hand and gently rotate the gear towards towards the drill bit. Be careful to not allow the drill bit to tilt Perimeters” in Prusa Slicer and print one gear at a time to completely eliminate any
along the way. Continue on till the drill bit exits from the other side of pin hole. stringing issues.

Materials • Blobs can also be caused by seam lines if they are positioned at the gear tooth pro le. Be
Removed sure to set the seam line to “sharpest corner” instead of random as illustrated below.
Slight Burrs

Seam lines should be

positioned at this sharp corner

Step 2: Grab a pin and intentionally introduce some burrs at the edge either by using a Dremel or
sandpaper as shown. Repeat Step 1 but replace the drill bit with the burred pin. You should notice
some plastic material being removed with every pass. Try spinning the gear every time it is fully
inserted through the pin. It should spin with minimal wobbling. At one point, it should spin smoothly
without jamming. This indicates that the pin hole is su ciently enlarged.
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• The two larger bearings (20X32X7 mm) and (10X15X4 mm) are usually lled with grease in order to increase the lifespan under high RPM and heavy loads. However, our application involves
low RPM and light loading. The high viscosity grease will introduce signi cant resistance to the clock power transfer system.

• The following steps will guide you to remove the grease in both bearings. I will be using the largest bearing for illustration but it applies for the medium sized bearing as well.

1 2 3 1.5mm drill bit 4

grease grease

Use a pen knife/blade to pry o the Once the seal is removed, you will notice Use a 1.5mm drill bit tip or any sharp There will be some residual grease in
bearing rubber seal on both sides of the internal cavity of the bearing is lled tool to remove the bulk of the grease the hard-to-reach areas.
the bearing with grease

99% IPA

(any other grease

Every 12 hours or so, perform the following removal solvent
8 7 6 5
steps: works too)
1) remove bearing from container, hold the
inner ring and try to spin the outer ring.
This should move some of the grease in
tight spots outwards.

2) remove any large chunks of grease that is

accessible if necessary.

3) place the bearing back into the container,

cover it and give it a vigorous shake

4) remove the bearing again, drain the grease

contaminated IPA and replace with pure Use a cover prevent evaporation of the Soak the bearings in the printable
After 2-3 several cycles of step 7, the
IPA
solvent. Give the container a good bearing soaker (or any other suitable
bearings will eventually be 100% free
of grease and it should be able to spin 5) Place the bearings back into the container shake every now and then to facilitate container) in 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
freely for several seconds for further soaking and repeat after the grease removal. to remove the remaining grease
another 12 hours
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• Page 15-19 consists of tables of all the printed parts along with key recommended print settings.

• There will be several parts that are highlighted in di erent colors. Those are critical parts where special attention will be required as follows:

• Critical Assembly Items - parts that will be assembled with other printed parts (usually a • Critical print Items - the recommended print settings must be
implemented as closely as possible as they a ect the weight
hexagonal feature) or with a bearing using a press t as illustrated. It is critical to ensure the
balance and structural strength requirements of the assembly to
tting is neither too tight or too loose.
function properly. See some examples below

• In the STL folder, All critical assembly parts will be a folder instead
of a single stl le. Within the folder, you will nd 5 copies of the part
with a number at the end of the lename.

58_Axis_1_Lower_Cage
• 100% in ll

• Print with support touching

build plate only

Weight balancing part -

required to be heavy

Take note of the numbers at the

end

Looser Fit Tighter Fit

67_Axis_1_Ring_Gear
• 0.3mm nozzle

-2 -1 0 +1 +2 • 2 outer wall perimeter

• 15 %in ll

• The numbers at the end of lenames indicates the tting variant of Part needs to be exible so
that it can be deformed to
the same part in order to cater for tolerances

be inserted into Axis 2

• I recommend printing the part “0” rst as that should work for most upper frame
people. If you nd that the tting is too tight, try the printing the -1 or
-2 looser t variant and vice versa.
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• There are six parts that I would consider to be Ultra Critical assembly parts. These are parts that will be assembled to the bearings as shown below.

• The metal bearings are considerably rigid and will not comply to dimensional variations of the printed parts. Hence it is critical to ensure that a perfect tting can be achieved while taking
into account of printing tolerances. The next few slides will guide you through a systematic method to identify the correct parts to be printed.

Part Name Illustration Bearing Assembly Illustration

10x15x4 Bearing
68_Axis_1_Transmission

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame

7x11x3 Bearing
75_Axis_3_Cage

76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear

80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear

20x32x7 Bearing

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base

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• In order to avoid re-printing the same part over and over again to obtain the best t, I’ve created tting jigs which is essentially a clone of all Looser Fit Tighter Fit
bearing assembly features with varying dimensions.

• Print all tting jigs using the identical printer, lament, nozzle size and print settings that you intend to use for the actual part.

-2 -1 0 +1 +2
• Insert bearings into the respective slots and identify the best t slot number. You should be required to apply some force with your hands to
insert the bearings (it must not be loose, but not too tight such that a hammer is required). Take note of the slot number for each part as shown
in the examples below
81_Axis_3_Angled_Base_Fitting_Jig
69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame_Fitting_Jig 75_Axis_3_Cage_Fitting_Jig

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base
75_Axis_3_Cage

Bearing (10X15X4 mm)

Bearing (20X32X7 mm)

Bearing (7x11x3 mm)

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame 75_Axis_3_Cage 81_Axis_3_Angled_Base

Bearing Slot +1 Bearing Slot 0 Bearing Slot +1
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• Some of the tting jigs does not have the +2 and -2 option in order to save on print time and material.

• For those particular jigs, If the +1 slot still provides a loose t, use the +2 variant. If the -1 slot still feels too tight, print the -2 variant for the actual part.

• Using the upper frame as an example, if the +1 slot provides the best bearing t, locate and print the upper frame stl le with the “+1” at the end of the
lename

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame
Bearing Slot +1

• You will also notice that there is a V groove on circular feature. It is optional feature that intended for seam positioning. You may set seam
alignment to sharpest corner to position the seam in the groove to improve print dimensional accuracy. Alternatively, using a random
seam positioning should work as well
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• Next, we need to identify the inner diameter bearing tting in the similar manner

• Print the tting Jig for each gears as shown and repeat the previous step to identify the best slot. Take note of the slot numbers in a table format as shown below as an example

68_Axis_1_Transmission_Fitting_Jig 80_Axis_3_Bevel_Fitting_Jig
76_Axis_3_Runner_Fitting_Jig

76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear
68_Axis_1_Transmission
80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear

68_Axis_1_Transmission 76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear 80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear

Bearing Slot +1 Bearing Slot -2 Bearing Slot -1
Hex Slot Hex Slot Hex Slot
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• Next, check for the best hexagonal tting with the female counterpart. You should have already identi ed and printed the parts on page 11. we will be using 2 of those parts and also the Axis 1
lower cage for the next steps.

• The hex slot tting should be the same as with the bearings (press t)

• Take note on the number for the hex slot and note it down in the same table again (example shown below)

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame 75_Axis_3_Cage
58_Axis_1_Lower_Cage

68_Axis_1_Transmission 76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear 80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear

Bearing Slot +1 Bearing Slot -2 Bearing Slot -1
Hex Slot -2 Hex Slot -1 Hex Slot 0
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• Finally, we will identify the correct parts to be printed. There are a total of 25 di erent combinations of bearing and hex slot dimensions.

• Take part #68 for example, upon clicking on the folder, you will nd 5 more folders. Select the folder that has the same number as the bearing slot. Then, select the stl le that has the same last
number as the Hex slot.

68_Axis_1_Transmission
Bearing Slot +1
Hex Slot -2

bearing slot hex slot

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• Use 12-15mm/s outer perimeter print speed for all the gears.

• Enable “combing mode” in cura or “avoid printed parts travel” (Prusa slicer)

• Seam lines should always aligned to “sharpest corner” especially for gears

• If retraction settings are not perfectly dialed in, the gears should be printed one by one to eliminate stringing

• Ender 3 users who are using “Magic Number” layer height, swap 0.15 -> 0.12mm and 0.2mm -> 0.16mm layer height based on recommended values

• “Outer Perimeter” is also known as “Wall Line Count” in Cura

Approx Material Nozzle Layer Outer Print
Part Name Qty In ll% Remarks Revision Log
Print time weight (g) Diameter Height Perimeter Support

01_Lower_Base 1 8h 30m 63 0.4 0.20 3 25 no

02_Upper_Base 1 8h 30m 63 0.4 0.20 3 25 no

03_Ratchet_Post 3 0h 40m 2 0.3 0.15 4 25 no

04_Ratchet_Gear 1 2h 0m 7.6 0.4 0.15 4 40 no

Prusa Slicer : head to print settings -> Advanced and set all extrusion width to 0.4

05_Ratchet_Spring 3 0h 25m 1.5 0.4 0.15 3 20 no

then head to Layers and Perimeters and check “detect thin walls”
06_Ratchet_Tooth 3 0h 18m 1.5 0.4 0.15 4 40 no

07_Ratchet_Bridge 1 0h 30m 3.5 0.4 0.15 3 20 no

08_Core_Transmission 4 1h 50m 6 0.3 0.12 4 40 no

09_Power_Post 1 0h 6m 1 0.4 0.15 3 20 no

10_Power_Transmission 1 1h 30m 5 0.3 0.12 4 40 no

11_Twin_Spacer 2 0h 5m 1 0.4 0.15 3 20 no

12_Mainspring_Barrel 2 8h 0m 56 0.4 0.20 4 40 Yes Load bearing part, High in ll % required

13_Mainspring_PETG 2 5h 10m 47 0.4 0.20 3 30 no

14_Barrel_Cover 2 2h 10m 11 0.4 0.15 4 30 no Print on a smooth surface

15_Mainspring_Winder 2 4h 35m 29 0.4 0.20 5 40 no Load bearing part, High in ll % required

16_Winding_Gear_1 1 0h 50m 1 0.4 0.15 4 40 no Print on a smooth surface

17_Winding_Gear_2 1 0h 55m 1 0.4 0.15 4 40 no Print on a smooth surface

18_Winding_Gear_3 1 0h 32m 1 0.4 0.15 6 40 no

19_Winding_Spacer 1 0h 10m 0 0.3 0.15 3 20 no

20_Hour_Transmission_1 1 1h 0m 3 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

21_Hour_Transmission_2 1 1h 0m 3 0.3 0.15 4 30 no Print on smooth surface

22_Hour_Transmission_3 1 0h 40m 2 0.3 0.15 4 30 no Print on smooth surface

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Approx Material Nozzle Layer Outer Print
Part Name Qty In ll % Remarks Revision Log
Print time weight (g) Diameter Height Perimeter Support
23_Hour_Transmission_4 1 1h 0m 3 0.3 0.15 4 30 no Print on smooth surface

24_Pillar_Post 12 4h 40m 25 0.3 0.15 4 30 Yes

25_Minute_Subframe 1 0h 50m 4 0.4 0.20 3 30 Yes Its ne for the gaps to be present due to the thin walls, see pg 124

26_Minute_Transmission_1 1 0h 10m 1 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

27_Minute_Transmission_2 1 0h 50m 1 0.3 0.15 4 30 no Optional but recommended to print on a smooth surface

28_Minute_Transmission_3 1 0h 50m 2 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

29_Hour_Marker 1
1h 30m 4 0.3 0.15 3 20 no
30_Minute_Marker 1

31_Hour_Marker_Front 1

32_Minute_Marker_Front 1
3h 40m 12 0.3 0.15 3 20 no
33_Hour_Marker_Rear 1

34_Minute_Marker_Rear 1

35_Hour_Arched_Pillar 1
1h 50m 7 0.3 0.15 3 20 no
36_Minute_Arched_Pillar 1
You could manually bump up the print speed and slow it down only when the gear
37_Axis_3_Ring_Gear 1 4h 55m 12 0.3 0.12 4 25 no
features are being printed
38_Ring_Frame_FL 1
39_Ring_Frame_FR 1
3h 15m 16 0.3 0.15 4 30 Yes
40_Ring_Frame_RL 1

41_Ring_Frame_RR 1

42_Retrograde_Transmission_1 2 1h 0m 3 0.3 0.15 3 25 no

43_Retrograde_Transmission_2 2 2h 24m 4 0.3 0.15 3 25 no Optional but recommended to print on a smooth surface

44_Retrograde_Transmission_3 2 1h 25m 3 0.3 0.15 3 25 no

45_Hour_Retro_Front_Frame 1

46_Minute_Retro_Front_Frame 1
4h 0m 20 0.4 0.15 3 20 yes
47_Hour_Retro_Rear_Frame 1

48_Minute_Retro_Rear_Frame 1
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Approx Material Nozzle Layer Outer Print
Part Name Qty In ll % Remarks Revision Log
Print time weight (g) Diameter Height Perimeter Support

49_Hour_Retro_Spring_PETG 1
0h 26m 2 0.4 0.2 3 20 yes
50_Minute_Retro_Spring_PETG 1

51_Hour_Retro_Gear
1 0h 51m 2 0.3 0.15 4 20 no
52_Minute_Retro_Gear

53_Hour_Snail_Cam
1
54_Minute_Snail_Cam 2h 20m 6 0.3 0.15 4 20 no

55_Pointer_Gear 2

56_Pointer 2 0h 20m 1 0.3 0.15 3 40 no

57_Retro_Spacer 4 0h 10m 0 0.3 0.15 3 20 no

58_Axis_1_Lower_Cage 1 • Required to be solid for tourbillon weight balance.

3h 50m 19 0.4 0.15 3 100 Yes • Only generate support from build plate.

59_Axis_1_Upper_Cage 1 • Recommended to print on smooth surface

60_Axis_1_Cage_Bridge 1 0h 11m 1 0.4 0.15 3 20 Yes

61_Axis_1_Cage_Spacer 3 0h 23m 1 0.3 0.15 3 100 no Weight Balancing Part

62_Impulse_Pin 1 0h 14m 1 0.3 0.15 4 20 no Recommended to print on a smooth surface

63_Hairspring 1 0h 30m 1 0.3 0.15 3 20 no

64_Balance_Wheel 1 0h 55m 5 0.3/0.4 0.15 2 10 no Balance wheel weight control

65_Escape_Fork 1 0h 14m 1 0.3 0.15 4 100 no

Use low print speeds. I used outer wall print speeds of 12mm/s
66_Escape_Wheel 1 0h 40m 2 0.3 0.15 3 30 no

67_Axis_1_Ring_Gear 1 1h 30m 4 0.3 0.15 2 15 no Needs to have thin walls to be exible for assembly

68_Axis_1_Transmission 1 1h 15m 4 0.3 0.15 3 20 no

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame 1 2h 0m 11 0.4 0.15 3 20 Yes

70_Axis_2_Lower_Frame 1 1h 20m 7 0.4 0.15 2 10 no

Required to be light with low in ll% for Axis 2 balancing
71_Axis_2_Spacer 6 0h 50m 2 0.3 0.15 3 15 no

72_Axis_2_Bevel 3 2h 30m 6 0.3 0.12 3 20 no

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Approx Material Nozzle Layer Outer Print
Part Name Qty In ll% Remarks Revision Log
Print time weight (g) Diameter Height Perimeter Support
73_Axis_2_Spur 2
1h 22m 4 0.3 0.15 3 20 no
74_Axis_2_Bevel_Stud 1 Recommended to print on a smooth surface

75_Axis_3_Cage 1 3h 0m 22 0.40 0.20 3 30 yes Use full support. Prusa Slicer’s default support works well

76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear 1 1h 0m 2.5 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

77_Axis_3_Balancing_Runner 1 0h 40m 2.5 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

78_Axis_3_Runner_Stud 2 0h 1m 0 0.3 0.20 3 20 no

79_Axis_3_Spacer 1 0h 5m 0 0.3 0.10 3 20 no

80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear 1 2h 50m 10 0.3 0.15 5 30 no

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base 1 2h 0m 13 0.4 0.20 4 30 Yes

82_Washer 30 0h 5m 0 0.3 0.15 3 20 no Recommended to print on a smooth surface

83_Winding_Key 1 3h 0m 18 0.4 0.20 3 25 no

68_Axis_1_Transmission_Fitting_Jig 1 3h 0m 10 0.3 0.15 3 20 no Rev 01 : Fixed labels

69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame_Fitting_Jig 1 1h 47m 8 0.4 0.15 3 20 no

75_Axis_3_Cage_Fitting_Jig 1 2h 23m 10 0.40 0.20 3 30 yes

Print using identical settings as the actual parts
76_Axis_3_Runner_Fitting_Jig 1 2h 9m 6 0.3 0.15 4 30 no

80_Axis_3_Bevel_Fitting_Jig 1 2h 18m 12 0.3 0.15 5 30 no

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base_Fitting_Jig 1 3h 0m 15 0.4 0.20 4 30 no

Tool_Balancing_Jig_Base 1
7h 8m 47 0.4 0.2 3 20 no
Tool_Balancing_Jig_Wall 2

Tool_Tourbillon_Spacer_Holder 1 0h 32m 4 0.4 0.2 3 20 no

Tool_Bearing_Soaker_Base 1
1h 29m 8 0.4 0.2 3 20 no
Tool_Bearing_Soaker_Cover 1

Tool_Mainspring_Shaper 1 1h 20m 6 0.3 0.15 4 50 no

Tool_Pinsorter 1 1h 0m 5 0.4 0.2 3 20 no

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3'&7,*/6&.)7/6"&7-/!>/?':'(&/")*/)'CC:,/+."5,7,&
Nozzle Nozzle Nozzle
Part Name Qty Colour Part Name Qty Colour Part Name Qty Colour
Diameter Diameter Diameter
29_Hour_Marker 1 White 0.3 27_Minute_Transmission_2 1 Gold 0.3 10_Power_Transmission 1 Gold 0.4

30_Minute_Marker 1 White 0.3 35_Hour_Arched_Pillar 1 Gold 0.3 14_Barrel_Cover 2 Gold 0.4

37_Axis_3_Ring_Gear 1 White 0.3 36_Minute_Arched_Pillar 1 Gold 0.3 79_Axis_3_Spacer 1 Gold 0.4
53_Hour_Snail_Cam 1 White 0.3 38_Ring_Frame_FL 1 Gold 0.3 16_Winding_Gear_1 1 Blue 0.3
54_Minute_Snail_Cam 1 White 0.3 39_Ring_Frame_FR 1 Gold 0.3 19_Winding_Spacer 1 Blue 0.3
55_Pointer_Gear 2 White 0.3 40_Ring_Frame_RL 1 Gold 0.3 21_Hour_Transmission_2 1 Blue 0.3
81_Axis_3_Angled_Base 1 White 0.4 41_Ring_Frame_RR 1 Gold 0.3
23_Hour_Transmission_4 1 Blue 0.3
01_Lower_Base 1 White 0.4 42_Retrograde_Transmission_1 2 Gold 0.3
28_Minute_Transmission_3 1 Blue 0.3
02_Upper_Base 1 White 0.4 43_Retrograde_Transmission_2 2 Gold 0.3
31_Hour_Marker_Front 1 Blue 0.3
07_Ratchet_Bridge 1 White 0.4 44_Retrograde_Transmission_3 2 Gold 0.3
32_Minute_Marker_Front 1 Blue 0.3
13_Mainspring_PETG 2 White 0.4 51_Hour_Retro_Gear 1 Gold 0.3
33_Hour_Marker_Rear 1 Blue 0.3
25_Minute_Subframe 1 White 0.4 52_Minute_Retro_Gear 1 Gold 0.3
34_Minute_Marker_Rear 1 Blue 0.3
49_Hour_Retro_Spring_PETG 1 White 0.4 56_Pointer 2 Gold 0.3
57_Retro_Spacer 4 Blue 0.3
50_Minute_Retro_Spring_PETG 1 White 0.4 61_Axis_1_Cage_Spacer 3 Gold 0.3
63_Hairspring 1 Blue 0.3
58_Axis_1_Lower_Cage 1 White 0.4 62_Impulse_Pin 1 Gold 0.3
65_Escape_Fork 1 Blue 0.3
59_Axis_1_Upper_Cage 1 White 0.4 64_Balance_Wheel 1 Gold 0.3
68_Axis_1_Transmission 1 Blue 0.3
60_Axis_1_Cage_Bridge 1 White 0.4 66_Escape_Wheel 1 Gold 0.3
72_Axis_2_Bevel 2 Blue 0.3
69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame 1 White 0.4 67_Axis_1_Ring_Gear 1 Gold 0.3
74_Axis_2_Bevel_Stud 1 Blue 0.3
70_Axis_2_Lower_Frame 1 White 0.4 71_Axis_2_Spacer 6 Gold 0.3
78_Axis_3_Runner_Stud 2 Blue 0.3
05_Ratchet_Spring 3 Gold 0.3 72_Axis_2_Bevel 1 Gold 0.3
04_Ratchet_Gear 1 Blue 0.4
09_Power_Post 2 Gold 0.3 73_Axis_2_Spur 2 Gold 0.3
12_Mainspring_Barrel 2 Blue 0.4
11_Twin_Spacer 2 Gold 0.3 76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear 1 Gold 0.3
15_Mainspring_Winder 2 Blue 0.4
17_Winding_Gear_2 1 Gold 0.3 77_Axis_3_Balancing_Runner 1 Gold 0.3

18_Winding_Gear_3 1 Gold 0.3 80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear 1 Gold 0.3 45_Hour_Retro_Front_Frame 1 Blue 0.4

20_Hour_Transmission_1 1 Gold 0.3 82_Washer 30 Gold 0.3 46_Minute_Retro_Front_Frame 1 Blue 0.4

22_Hour_Transmission_3 1 Gold 0.3 03_Ratchet_Post 3 Gold 0.4 47_Hour_Retro_Rear_Frame 1 Blue 0.4

24_Pillar_Post 12 Gold 0.3 06_Ratchet_Tooth 3 Gold 0.4 48_Minute_Retro_Rear_Frame 1 Blue 0.4

26_Minute_Transmission_1 1 Gold 0.3 08_Core_Transmission 4 Gold 0.4 75_Axis_3_Cage 1 Blue 0.4

Part 1: Lower Base
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
1) Insert 3X ratchet post into the Lower Base. U may be required to hammer the parts into place. If 2) Insert 1.5mm pins into the lower base as illustrated.

the parts are loosely tted, apply some super glue or print the tighter t variation ✴ProTip : you could use a 1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the hole on the upper 1-2mm section. This will
improve the alignment the pins before applying force to fully insert them.

3) Carefully hammer the pins into the respective holes. Once they are inserted by approximately
1-2mm, inspect the pins to make sure that they are not excessively tilted. Continue knocking the
pins all the way till they are ushed with the bottom side of the lower base.
03_Ratchet_Post (x3) 17mm (x2)

01_Lower_Base

21mm (x4)

All pins must be fully inserted

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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
4) Insert the 2x washer followed by 2x core transmission gears as illustrated below. 5) Insert the ratchet gear. Washer is not required for the ratchet gear. perform a Mesh Check

★ [Mesh Check] - Rotate one of the gears to drive all the other connected gears for at least one full
revolution. All gears should rotate smoothly. If there are intermittent jams or resistance at speci c
08_Core_Transmission_(x2) positions, check gear tooth for potential bobs, elephants foot or layer shifts and clean them
accordingly. Mesh check will be performed for every gear assembly as we move along the guide.

04_Ratchet_Gear

Washer (x2)

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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
6) Assemble 3x Ratchet springs onto the Ratchet Posts. Some force may be required for assembly 7) Insert 3x ratchet tooth into the pins. They should rotate freely around the pins. check that the
and take note on the orientations. ratchet mechanism is working properly. The ratchet gear should only be allowed to rotate
counter-clockwise and should be “locked” when rotated clockwise.
05_Ratchet_Spring (x3)

06_Ratchet_Tooth (x3)

Ratchet Post must

protrude slightly Its ok to have a gap
between the ratchet
spring and tooth
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
8) Assemble the Ratchet Bridge using three M2X5 screws. Screw threads are printed in place and 9) Insert the remaining pins according to the illustration below. Follow the rules from step 2 and 3.
you will be required to apply some force to tighten the screws. Do not over-tighten the screws as Pay careful attention to ensure the 38mm pins are not bent due to excessive hammering force.
the printed threads can be damaged. Ensure that none of the pins are tilted after insertion by visually inspecting them from the side.

M2x5 Screw (x3)

07_Ratchet_Bridge 23mm

17mm (x2)

38mm (x7)

There should be gaps

at these areas Pay special attention to these
2 pins to ensure that they are
not tilted
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
10) Insert 2x washers followed by 2x Mainspring Winder. Perform a [Mesh Check]. It is ne for the 11) Insert 2x washers into the winder cavity followed by 2x Mainspring Barrel. We will not be
mainspring winder to wobble slightly while rotating. If the winder is scratching the lower base assembling the spring into the barrel at this point. We must rst ensure that the power
excessively, re-print the washer and scale it up along z in your slicer to slightly increase its transmission gears are meshing as smoothly as possible as this will critically a ect the
thickness. performance of the clock.

12_Mainspring_Barrel (x2)
15_Mainspring_Winder (x2)

Washer (x2)

Washer (x2)

Washers
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
12) Give both mainspring barrel a good spin. They should be able to rotate freely for at least 3 13) Insert 2x Twin Spacer followed by 2x Core Transmission and do a [Mesh Check]. Inspect the gear
secs. If there are resistance to the free spin, the potential causes could one of the position from the side. The position of the both core transmission gears should be aligned to the
following:
middle of the Mainspring barrel’s gear teeth. Adjust the Twin spacer’s height using z scaling if
A. Barrel inner base is in direct contact with winder due to a combination of printing tolerance necessary
or thin washer. It can easily be veri ed by adding another washer in the barrel-winder
interface to and give it another try. If thats the case, reprint the washer and scale it up slightly 08_Core_Transmission (x2)
along z.
Side View
B. Barrel shaft is in contact with winder bore hole, potentially caused by presence of blobs,
strings or debris. Inspect the interface and remove any excess materials.

C. Barrel has a slightly tight t against the pin. Repeat step 2 of page 12 to slightly increase the
11_Twin_Spacer (x2)
pin hole diameter of the barrel.

Section View
C A B

12_Mainspring_Barrel

Meshing gears should

be relatively aligned.
15_Mainspring_Winder
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
14) Insert the Power Post followed by the Power Transmission gear. Ensure that there is a visible 15) Remove the 2x Mainspring Barrel and set them aside. I’d recommend to take note on the Left
gap between the power transmission and both twin transmission gears. Perform a [Mesh and Right side barrel so that they are not swapped during the re-assembly later on. Leave the
Check] by spinning either one of the Mainspring Barrel. All 5 meshed gears should be able to washers in place.
freely rotate for at least 2 seconds.

10_Power_Transmission

09_Power_Post

Gap check

Ensure this washer

stays in place
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
17) Insert Hour Transmission 1 and perform a [Mesh Check]. Note that Hour Transmission 1 only
16) Insert Hour Transmission 2 rst followed by Hour Transmission 4 along with washers as
meshes with Hour Transmission 2

illustrated. Note that Hour Transmission 2 will not mesh with the Mainspring Winder. Give both
gears a spin, they should be able to spin freely. *Note: 22_Hour_Transmission_3 that links all the gears together will be inserted later on page 59

23_Hour_Transmission_4 20_Hour_Transmission_1

21_Hour_Transmission_2
washer

washer
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
18) Insert 2x washer followed by 1x Winding transmission spacer as illustrated. Insert winding transmission
1 followed by 2 and 3 and perform a [Mesh Check]

18_Winding_Gear_3

19_Winding_Spacer

17_Winding_Gear_2

Washer (x2)
16_Winding_Gear_1
 F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/34&.)%/37,,:/047.')
18) Prepare the 0.2mm thick steel mainspring. Cut the mainspring to 3 - 3.5m using a Dremel + 20) Insert either one end of the V feature to the slot on the circle section. Take note on the
diamond cutter or any other suitable methods. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves! orientation and carefully wrap the spring around the cylindrical post. Apply some force with
Bend both ends to have opposite facing “V” features as shown below using the printed you hand to form a circular feature on the mainspring. This will be the mainspring core. It does
Mainspring Shaping Tool not need to be a perfect circle as long as it is smaller than the hexagonal feature on the
Mainspring winder.
Use the
orientation
2 - 3m feature as
reference

3 - 4mm

3 - 4mm

19) The Mainspring Shaper has 2 slots on its side. Fully insert one end of the at steel mainspring
to the slot on the square section. Use your hand to bend the spring along the sides and repeat
for the other end of the mainspring

Tool_Mainspring Shaper

15_Mainspring_Winder

Mainspring Core
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 F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/34&.)%/37,,:/047.')
21) Coil the spring into a small circle till it ts into the mainspring barrel. Take note on the 23) Uncoil the spring to and apply some pressure to the slot area to ensure that it is fully inserted.
orientation of the coil as illustrated below The assembled spring should look like the pictures below. Position the core to the side of the
middle post as shown below. The springs will be thicker if you used a longer length.

22) Locate the slot feature on the mainspring barrel. Insert the coiled spring into the mainspring
barrel and insert V feature on the mainspring into the Barrel slot.

Place the core of the mainspring to

the side. This is required for the
mainspring insertion later on

Barrel slot feature

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 F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/34&.)%/37,,:/047.')
24) Assemble the barrel cover and secure it using 6X M2X5 screw. Be careful not to over tighten 25) Re-insert the mainspring barrels into the assembly. use a small allen wrench or screw driver to
the screws as the printed threads can be damaged. Repeat steps 18 - 24 for the second push mainspring core outward to make room for the insertion of the barrels. After full insertion,
mainspring barrel use the same tool to wrap the core around the hexagonal feature on the Mainspring winder.
The V bend does not need to be inserted into the slot on the mainspring winder. The
tightening action of the coil will eventually guide the V bend to the slot as you wind up the
spring.
M2x5 Screw (x6)

14_Barrel_Cover

Mainspring Core Pushed away

from the center to to make
room for insertion

Mainspring Core should be

wrapped around the hexagonal
post of the winding gear
F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/34&.)%/37,,:/047.')
26) Remove the Power Transmission gear to decouple both Mainspring barrels. Rotate both barrels counter-clockwise, one after another. You should feel the tension
building up from the spring winding. Slowly release the mainspring barrel and it will unwind by itself. Re-insert the Power transmission gear. If you observe
slipping of the mainspring core, disassemble the mainspring barrel and ne tune the mainspring-core to a have a smaller diameter.

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rotate to wind the spring rotate to wind the spring
 F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/6G9H/34&.)%/047.')
27) Insert a 1.5mm X 22mm pin into the Mainspring. the amount of pin protrusion at each end 28) Assemble the barrel cover and secure it using 6X M2X5 screw. Align the pin hole on the Barrel
doesn’t really matter at this point. Wind the spring by hand till it is small enough to t into the cover to the protruding pin on the PETG spring. Adjust the position of the pin to ensure that it
mainspring barrel and insert the spring. adjust the orientation of the mainspring such that the does not protrude from either sides of the assembly. Be careful not to over tighten the screws
pin aligns with the hole on the barrel as the threads can be damaged. Repeat steps 26 -27 for the second mainspring barrel

22mm Pin
13_Mainspring_PETG M2x5 Screw (x6)

14_Barrel_Cover

Ensure pin does not protrude from

either sides of the assembly
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 F".)-4&.)%/3(="--,5=:>/8/6G9H/34&.)%/047.')
29) Re-insert the mainspring barrels into the assembly. Some ddling may be required to get the
Mainspring winder hexagonal post to be inserted into the PETG spring opening. Refer to step
26 to test the winding of both barrels.

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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/D/E/@'2,&/!"-,
25) Insert 6X Pillar Posts as illustrated below. There are 12 pillars posts in total but we will reserve
the other half for the upper base. The pillar posts are symmetrical on both ends so orientation
does not matter. Use a small hammer to knock on the posts to ensure that they are rmly
inserted

24_Pillar_Post (x6)

Assembly Part 1: Complete

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Part 2: Upper base
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
1) Insert Ø1.5mm pins as illustrated below 2) Assemble the Arched pillars using M2X8 screws. To ensure that both pillars are not mixed up,
view the part from the top, the protruded features is slightly o set as illustrated below
13.5mm (x2)
02_Upper_Base
35_Hour_Arched_Pillar

36_Minute_Arched_Pillar

M2x8 Screw (x4)

17mm (x2)

These features are

not centered. They
are o set towards
the circular feature
on the upper base
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
3) Assemble the Hour and Minute markers onto their respective rear frames. Be careful of the little protrusions on the rear frames.
These features are meant to be inserted into the hollow openings on the markers. Gently knock on the markers to ensure that they
are fully inserted

Hour Marker Minute Marker

29_Hour_Marker
30_Minute_Marker

33_Hour_Marker_Rear 34_Minute_Marker_Rear
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
4) Assemble the Marker Front Frames. Use a small hammer / allen wrench to evenly knock on the areas as indicated below. The numbers on
the markers should protrude from the front frame.

Hour Marker Minute Marker

M2x5 Screw (x4) M2x5 Screw (x4)

31_Hour_Marker_Front 32_Minute_Marker_Front

Hammer on these areas

Hammer on these areas
to fully insert the upper
to fully insert the upper
frame to the marker
frame to the marker
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
5) Assemble the Markers onto their respective arched pillars using M2X5 screws. There is a locating feature on the back of the marker that
matches the arch pillars. Be careful not to over tighten the screws as the threads on the pillars can easily be cracked.

Hour Marker Minute Marker

M2x5 Screw (x2)

M2x5 Screw (x2)

 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
6) Prepare the Axis 3 Ring gear. There are 8 printed M2 threads on the bottom. We need to loosen 7) Assemble the Ring Frames onto the ring gear and secure them using M2x5 screws. The shorter
the threads in order to ease the following step. Use a 1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the thread holes. (front) frames has wider screw hole spacing compared to the rear. Use that to identify the
Drive a M2x5 screw into and out of all the threads several times. You may nd some PLA position of the frames on the ring gear. Use the ball end of the hex wrench to tighten the rear
material accumulating on the entry of the threads after driving the screws in. Use a pen knife to frame screws. The through holes for the M2 screws on the frames will be relatively tight as they
remove that excess material. are also used as positioning features to correctly position the frames.

37_Axis_3_Ring_Gear 40_Ring_Frame_RL
41_Ring_Frame_RR

39_Ring_Frame_FR

38_Ring_Frame_FL

Some plastic material will accumulate after insertion

of screws. Use a pen knife to remove it. The bottom M2x5 Screw (x8)
surface must be at for proper assembly
fl
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
8) Assemble the ring gear subassembly onto the upper frame. If you notice there is a signi cant 9) Insert 3x Ø1.5mm pins followed by 3x washers onto the Minute Subframe.
o set in the position of the pillars relative to the base hexagonal holes, slightly loosen the
screws on the arched pillars, insert the pillars onto the base, and re-tighten the screws evenly.
The pillars must be rmly assembled to the upper base. You may also apply some super glue if
the tting is loose
25mm

9.5mm

25_Minute_Subframe

21mm

Washer (x3)
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
10) Assemble the Minute transmission gears in their numbered order and perform a Mesh Check 11) Assemble the Minute subframe onto the upper base. The protruding pin on the min
transmission 2 gear needs to be inserted to the upper base.

28_Minute_Transmission_3

27_Minute_Transmission_2

26_Minute_Transmission_1

View from top

Gap Check
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
12) Flip the upper base around and secure the subframe using M2X8 screws. Flip the assembly 13) Insert the remaining 6x pillar posts to the upper frame. The pillar posts are designed to be
again to the correct orientation and inspect the gears from the side. There should be a gap loosely tted to the upper base as compared to the lower base. It is ne for the posts to be
between the transmission gears and the upper base. Perform another Mesh Check. slightly imsy for now.

M2x8 Screw (x3)

Gap Check
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/I/E/B44,&/!"-,
14) Flip the base to the bottom again and insert a 27mm pin. The protruded length of the pin 15) Insert the retrograde transmission gears along with washers as illustrated. Perform a Mesh
should not exceed 21mm. Check and the Upper Base Assembly is complete.

43_Retrograde_
27mm Transmission_2 (x2)

42_Retrograde_
Transmission_1 (x2)

Washer (x4)

≤ 21mm
Part 3: Retrograde Mechanism
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
• Part 3 of the assembly will involve identical assembly steps but in mirrored fashion for the Hour and Minutes Retrograde sub-assembly. Hence this section of the guide will involve 2
simultaneous assembly steps for the Hour and Minute Retrograde sub-assembly.

1) Insert Ø1.5mm pins as illustrated below to the Retro Front Frames. The pins should be fully inserted and ushed to the other face of the frames.

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

46_Minute_Retro_Front_Frame
45_Hour_Retro_Front_Frame

25mm (X3)
25mm (X3)

13.5mm 13.5mm

All pins should be

ushed to the surface
of the frame
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
2) Insert the Retrograde gear rst followed by the snail gear. Check to ensure that both gears can freely rotate about
the pins and rotate the snail gear such that both components can be positioned as illustrated below

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

53_Hour_Snail_Cam 54_Minute_Snail_Cam

51_Hour_Retro_Gear 52_Minute_Retro_Gear
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
3) Assemble the Retrograde PETG Spring and secure it using a M2X8 screw. The Spring should be applying pressure to the Retro Gear.
Rotate the Snail gear several times to ensure that retro gear moves and snaps back into the origin position without resistance.

Hour Retrograde M2x8 Screw M2x8 Screw Minute Retrograde

49_Hour_Retro_ 50_Minute_Retro_
Spring_PETG Spring_PETG
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
4) Insert the Retro Transmission 3 Gear and perform a mesh check. There will be resistance to the rotation due to the spring action. Just
check for any signi cant jams.

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

44_Retrograde_ 44_Retrograde_
Transmission_3 Transmission_3
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
5) Assemble the Pointer onto pointer gear as shown below. The t should be relatively tight. 6) Insert the Pointer gears into both Retro frames and roughly position them as illustrated below.
However, you should still be able to rotate the pointer relative to the gear by applying some We will ne tune the Pointer starting angle later.
force for ne tuning of the pointer angle later. Print the appropriate tting variant of the pointer if
the assembly is too tight or too loose. There should be a small protrusion of the pointer gear
from the side view of the assembly. Repeat for a total of 2 sets.

56_Pointer

55_Pointer_Gear

(x2)

Small Protrusion must

be visible
Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

Pointer must be fully

ushed with pointer
gear
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
7) Insert 2X Retro spacers followed by the retro rear frames as illustrated below. Use a 1.5mm drill bit to slightly loosen the pin holes on the
rear frame to ease the assembly. It’s ok for the pins to be loosely tted to the rear frames. Perform a mesh check by rotating the retro
transmission 3 gear. Ensure that the rear frame and spacers are not pinching on the gears.

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

48_Minute_Retro_Rear_Frame
47_Hour_Retro_Rear_Frame

57_Retro_Spacer
(x4)

View from top

View from top

Gap Check
Gap Check
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
8) Assemble the Retrograde subassembly onto the upper base using 4x M2X8 screws respectively. The positions of the pointers does not
need to be at the lowest marker as illustrated for now. we will perform several assembly checks in the next step.

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

M2x8 Screw (x8)

 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/J/E/K,7&'%&"*,/F,#L").-5
9) Check the following areas on the assembly. Perform another Mesh Check by Rotating the Retro transmission gear 1 (clockwise for Hour
retro and Counter-clockwise for minute retrograde) to sweep the pointer along the markers. Part 3 of the assembly is now complete

Hour Retrograde Minute Retrograde

There should be
a gap here.

The Retro transmission gears 2 and 3

should not be pinching one another.
Re-print a thinner washer for retro
transmission 2 if pinching is observed

There should be a gap

here when viewed
from the top or side

Rotate this gear Rotate this gear

clockwise for Mesh counter-clockwise for
Check Mesh Check
Part 4: Full Base Assembly
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/M/E/N(::/!"-,/<--,5=:>
1) Transfer the 6 Pillar posts from the upper base to the lower base. 2) Ensure that you have the Upper base subassembly nearby. Grab the Hour Transmission Gear 3
and roughly position it as illustrated below and hold it with your hand. It should mesh with Hour
transmission 2 and 4 gears.
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/M/E/N(::/!"-,/<--,5=:>
3) This step may be slightly ddly and may require several trials. We will now assemble the upper base to the lower base and there are
quite a number of areas that will be assembled simultaneously. The rst step (A) is to insert the upper based pin into the Hour
transmission gear 3. Refer to the labels below for more details in alphabetical order (A->B->C->D->E)

D. Minute Transmission gear 1

will mesh with the Mainspring
Barrel. Slowly rotate the
mainspring barrel during
insertion to allow proper
meshing.

A. This Pin needs to

be inserted to the
Hour Transmission 3
Gear. E. Winding Gear 3 will be
slotted through the circular
opening on the Minute
transmission subframe

C. All 12 pillar posts will be inserted to

matching openings on the upper base.
Be sure to remove the support materials
on some of the hexagonal cavities.
B. All Lower Base pins highlighted in red
will be inserted to corresponding holes on
the upper base. If u have di culty aligning
all the pins to the holes, check for Use a
1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the holes on the
Upper Base
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/M/E/N(::/!"-,/<--,5=:>
3) Once all mating areas are veri ed to be aligned, and gears are meshing correctly, apply force on the areas indicated by the yellow
arrows to fully insert the upper base onto all 12 pillar posts. View the assembly from the side and check for gaps as illustrated below.

Gap Check. If pinching is observed, reprint taller

pillar posts by slightly increasing the z scale
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3) Perform another Mesh Check by rotating either one of the mainspring barrel counter-clockwise and both retrograde mechanisms should be activated. The ratchet mechanism will provide a
slight resistance but overall motion of the gears should be smooth. The gears should be able to spin freely for 1-2 seconds with a good spin of the mainspring barrel.

Rotate
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/M/E/K,7&'83>)#L&').C"7.')
4) Rotate the mainspring barrel slowly till the minute retrograde “jumps” back to the lowest 5) We will not shift our focus to the Hour retrograde setting. Lift up the hour transmission 1
point of the snail cam as illustrated below. Hold onto the pointer gear and adjust the gear (Green) fully till it disengages with the Hour Transmission 2 gear. You may use any
pointing angle of the pointer such that it points to 0 on the minute marker. Rotate the suitable spacer or tool to maintain the position of the gear. Alternatively holding it by hand
mainspring barrel several times again and check that the pointer “jumps” back to the 0 works as well. Rotate the Hour transmission 2 gear (Red) counter clockwise and the Hour
marker after few cycles. Retrograde will move.

Rotate the mainspring barrel

till the retro and snail gear
are in this state

Green Gear must be

disengaged from red gear

Rotate This gear counter clockwise

(from top view) to move the Hour
Use your index nger and thumb Retrograde mechanism
to secure the pointer gear during
the pointer adjustment

Adjust the Pointer gear by

applying some force to
position it at the 0 marker line
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6) Continue rotating the red gear till the hour retrograde jumps to the lowest position. Drop and re-engage the Hour transmission gear 1.
Hold the pointer gear and adjust the pointer such that it points to the lowest 12 marker.

Use your index nger and thumb

Rotate the Hour Transmission 2 till the to secure the pointer gear during
retro and snail gear are in this state the pointer adjustment

Adjust the Pointer gear by

applying some force to
position it at the “12”
marker line

Green Gear must be re-

engaged before adjusting
the pointer angle
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/M/E/K,7&'83>)#L&').C"7.')
7) Optional Step: If you intend to synchronize the drop rate of both hour and minute retrogrades (which only happens once every 12 hours), you could ne tune the sync as follows: You will
be required to repeat steps 1 to 3 multiple times to achieve the desired sync.

Important Note:

• It is di cult to achieve perfect synchronization due to large gear backlashes, pin clearances and overall 3D printing tolerances. I would suggest not to spend too much time on this step.

• Some of you may also notice that the pointer does not reach or overshoot the highest marker lines. This is caused by print variations of the snail cam pro le. I learned that this mechanism
ampli es any small changes to the snail cam pro le and it will be quite an impossible task (I apologize for that in advance) to try to ensure that every printer can reproduce a model accurate
geometry. Hence the CAD les of both parts will be provided for enthusiasts who intend to try to get the clock to function accurately as possible.

1
3
2

• If the Hour Pointer drops rst, Rotate the red

Carefully lift the Hour transmission 1 gear (Green) to gear clockwise by a small amount and re-
disengage the Hour transmission 3 gear (red). Try engage the green gear

rotate either one of the mainspring barrel all the way till the hour pointer reaches close to the 12 • If the Minute pointer drops rst, Rotate the
your best not to rotate any of the gears
upper 12 hour mark (this will require quite a number of rotations). Continue rotating the barrel, Red gear counter clockwise by a small
but very slowly and take note on which pointer drops rst. amount and re-engage the green gear

Repeat
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Part 5.1: Axis 1 Tourbillon
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
• This is the nal section of the assembly and it is also the most critical part as It will dictate the performance of the clock. There will be
many testing, tuning and assembly checkpoints that needs to be followed very closely. Take your time on this section.

1) Prepare the Axis 1 Lower Cage and remove all the support materials as cleanly as possible.
2) Insert 3 Ø1.5mm pins as illustrated below. There should be about 17-19mm length of
There are 3 printed M3 threads on the side (for weight balancing). Drive 3 M3 screws tted
exposed pin for the 23mm middle pin. Double check that all pins are not visually tilted.
with M3 nuts as illustrated below into the threads and leave them in for now. Take note of the
number of nuts on each screw. These are for weight balancing and we will be tuning them
later

58_Axis_1_Lower_Cage 13.5mm (X2)

Remove support
materials here, If
applicable 23mm

Printed M3
Threads

M3 Nut (x4)

17-19mm

M3x10 Screw (x3)

Its ok to have some

pin protrusion here
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
3) Inspect the Escape wheel carefully and ensure that there are no elephants foot or blobs on [Checkpoint #1]
the ngers of the wheel. Insert 2x washers to the 2 shorter pins followed by the Escape Spin Check : Give the wheel a good spin and it should rotate freely for at least 3 secs before
wheel.
stopping.

Pin - Hole Clearance Check : There should be minimal clearance between the pin and hole on
the escape wheel (just enough to provide a minimal friction spin). Try to wobble the wheel
around the pin, you should not be able to feel signi cant movements.

66_Escape_Wheel Ensure that there are no elephants foot

at this part of the Escape Wheel nger
(for all ngers). Use a pen knife to clean
up wherever necessary
Spin

Pin to hole clearance needs to be

minimal. This can be achieved by
repeating step 2 on page 19 using a
Washer (x2) pin with less burrs.
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
4) Inspect the Escape fork carefully and ensure that there are no elephants foot or blobs at the [Checkpoint #2]
highlighted areas below. Clean up with a pen knife if necessary and insert the fork as illustrated 1. Spin Check : Give the wheel a slow and steady spin clockwise and the escape fork
below
should rock forward and backwards with little resistance as it interacts with the escape
• There are 2 fork variants that has slightly di erent pro les. Start with the optimized version and if wheel ngers.You could refer to my detailed assembly video guide for better
that doesn’t quite work out, switch to the safe version that has a larger clearance to cater for demonstration on the expected behavior. If there are intermittent jams, use a pen knife
more printing tolerance (at the slight expense of e ciency) to carefully remove materials from the escape fork on the interfering areas.

2. Pin - Hole Clearance Check : There should be minimal clearance between the pin and
hole on the escape wheel (just enough to provide a minimal friction spin). Try to wobble
65_Escape_Fork
the fork around the pin, you should not be able to feel signi cant movements.

p in
S
Fork should rock
back and forth

Pin to hole clearance needs to be

minimal. This can be achieved by
repeating step 2 on page 19 using
a pin with less burrs.

Ensure that there are no

elephants foot here. Use a pen
knife to clean up if necessary
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
5) Insert 2 washers to the top of the wheel and fork followed by the cage bridge. If the pins are too tightly tted into [Checkpoint #3]
the corresponding holes on the bridge, use a 1.5mm drill bit to loosen the holes. Secure the bridge using M2x5 Inspect the wheel and fork from the side, there should be a gap between
screws. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws the bridge and the washers as illustrated. It does not have to be a visible
gap; you could try moving the escape wheel and fork along the length of
M2x5 Screw (x2) the pin and you should feel a slight allowable movement. Reprint thinner
Washer (x2)
60_Axis_1_Cage_Bridge washers by scaling them along z if binding is observed.

Perform the steps from Checkpoint #2 one more time.

There should be a slight

gap here

Wheel and fork should be able

to slightly move along the
direction of the yellow arrows

[Checkpoint #4]
Ensure that the bridge is visually parallel to the bottom side of the base

should be visually
parallel
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6) Insert a washer followed by the impulse pin to the middle pin.
[Checkpoint #5]
you will be guided to cycle through all the phases of the fork, pin and
62_Impulse_Pin
wheel interactions the step by step guide on the next slide to ensure that
the mechanism works well. It will be helpful to rst understand the basic
terminologies of the fork as shown below. I also highly recommend
Washer
watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wmk2mA6dg3o
of the Swiss Lever escapement in action.

Escape Fork Terminologies

t
t

alle
lle
Pa

ht P
Locking Face

t
Lef
Locking Face

Rig
Impulse Face Impulse Face

The next 2 pages will be

focusing on this area
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 ?L,#$4'.)7/RO/E/9L,/G-#"4,5,)7/F,#L").-5/

1 Palle
Left
t 2 3

Lef t
le

Pal t
h
t

let
Pa l

Rig
Pa ht
llet
Rig
power
unlock transfer
lock Lower stopper pin small gap

1) Start from the right pallet locking face engagement. The 2) The balance wheel + impulse pin swings back 3) The escape wheel nger now slides along the impulse
fork is in contact with the lower stopper pin. Escape clockwise (CW) and nudges the fork to rotate CCW. face of the right pallet. the energy from the
wheel always tries to rotate counter-clockwise (CCW) The nudge will cause the escape wheel nger to be mainspring that is transferred all the way to the
and is in locking contact with the fork as shown, thus released from the locked position. There should be a escape wheel is now partly being transferred to the
unable to rotate. small gap between the left pallet and wheel nger fork and nally to the impulse pin + balance wheel

Upper stopper pin

4 5 6

unlock
lock
small
Exit
gap
point

4) The escape wheel nger eventually exits the right pallet 5) The escape wheel nger then strikes the left pallet
6) The impulse pin nudges the fork again. Escape wheel +
when the fork fully swings to the upper stopper pin. locking face and will remain in this position till the
fork will unlocked at the left pallet. At this position, check
There should be a small gap at the exit point as balance wheel makes another full swing, rotating back
that a gap exists between the right pallet with the wheel
illustrated. You may use a pen knife to carefully remove CCW
ngers
some material at the fork if no gap is observed
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?L,#$4'.)7/RO/E/9L,/G-#"4,5,)7/F,#L").-5/

7 8 9

power Exit
transfer point
lock

7) Escape wheel nger slides along impulse face of the 8) The wheel nger then exits the left pallet as the fork is 9) The wheel eventually locks with the fork again on the
fork, transferring energy once again to rotate the fork fully swing to the right. Ensure that there is a gap at the right pallet and the mechanism completes a full cycle
clockwise. exit point. You may use a pen knife to gently remove that repeats itself.
some material at the fork at the point of interference if
necessary.
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
7) Remove the impulse pin and insert the hairspring followed by the balance wheel. The tting should be tight: Use a [Checkpoint #6]
hammer to knock the impulse pin into the assembly and ensure that it is fully inserted. Pay extra attention to the • Ensure that there are no visible gaps between the impulse pin ange,

assembly orientation of the impulse pin, hairspring and balance wheel. It has to be identical to the illustration • Run a spare 1.5mm pin through the assembly and give it a spin. Look
below. from the side and ensure that the balance wheel does not wobble too
much. It excessive wobble is observed, it is likely that it is not fully
orientation
inserted or the impulse pin hole is tilted during the reaming process on
features
page 11.

Gap Check (must

be ushed)

Sp
in
63_Hairspring
lightly Hammer the impulse pin to
ensure that it is fully inserted
any spare long
1.5mm pin
64_Balance_Wheel

Impulse Pin should protrude

slightly. place any spacer below
before knocking on the impulse pin
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8) Insert the balance wheel assembly and use any long at tool to press the hairspring post into the lower cage slot [Checkpoint #7]
as shown. Check the assembly from the side, the hairspring should not be tilted
relative to the lower base. You may be required to gently tap on either
the front or rear side of the hairspring notch to adjust the tilt.

you may be required to gently

tap of either sides of the notch
to correct the hairspring tilt

Washer should
still be present
Hairspring should be visually
parallel to the lower cage

[Checkpoint #8]
“Transparent View” - Impulse pin notch there should be balanced gap between the balance wheel and all 3 sides
should sit into the escape fork cavity
of the lower cage arms.

Gently hammer this

area to secure the
hairspring

Gap check (X3 places)

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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
[Checkpoint #9] 9) Follow through steps 1 to 5 (and repeat if necessary) to loosen the printed M2.5 thread on the
Give the escape wheel a very gentle and constant counter-clockwise rotation as illustrated to Axis 1 cage spacer.
activate the escapement mechanism. Take note that it is normal for the mechanism to have
61_Axis_1_Cage_
intermittent jams due to the di culty to apply a constant force on the escape wheel. When that 1 Spacer 2
happens, give the escape fork a nudge to reset the position of the impulse pin. As long as it
Tool_Tourbillon_
runs relatively smoothly without major jams or resistance, we are good to move on. a detailed Spacer_Holder
check will be carried out later.

The tting should be relatively loose

Insert the axis 1 cage spacer to the spacer

holder tool. Orientation does not matter

e
at

Drive the screw along the full length of the thread

t
ro

and back out. Repeat several times till the screw Drive a M2.5X8 (or longer) screw into the
can be easily driven into the threads. printed threads carefully. It should be tight on
the rst pass

manually oscillate
Remove the screw and the spacer once
fork to reset jams completed. Repeat for the other 2 identical
spacers
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
10) Apply super glue or any suitable adhesive to the indicated areas of the lower cage and 11) Remove all the support materials and drive M2.5x8 screws each tted with 2 nuts fully into
attach the 3X cage spacers that was prepared in the previous step. Take note of the the printed threads. Use a 1.5mm drill bit to loosen the center hole to ease the following
assembly orientation with reference to the illustration assembly step
59_Axis_1_Upper_Cage

Apply some super glue M2.5x8 Screws with nuts (x3)

on and around the
protruded pin area

Chamfered feature
must be facing
upwards

61_Axis_1_Cage_
Spacer (x3)

Use a 1.5mm drill

bit to slightly
enlarge this hole to
ease the next
assembly step
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12) Assemble the upper cage onto the lower cage and secure it using M2.5x6 screws. Use the center pin to position
[Checkpoint #10]
the upper cage relative to the lower cage and be careful during the tightening of the screws to not introduce any
Check the assembly from the side, there should be a small gap between
tilt to the center pin.
the washer above the impulse pin and the upper cage. There should also
be visible gap between the balance wheel and the upper cage
M2.5x6 screw (x3)

A small gap should

be present here

Washer

cross section view for additional assembly details

Gap check (3 places):

Balance wheel to upper cage

 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
12) Assemble the Axis 1 Transmission gear. 13) Grab 2 unassembled 19mm pins and insert them as illustrated. Both
pins should be rmly inserted and not tilted.

68_Axis_1_Transmission

Transmission gear
must be fully inserted
and not tilted
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14) Assemble the balancing jig walls to the base as illustrated with M2.5X12 screws. This step 15) Place the Axis 1 tourbillon assembly onto the notch of the jig as illustrated (you could also try
is [optional] as you may also make use of any other suitable tool to balance the Axis 1 to balance it on the at side but it will be slightly more challenging). Ensure that there is a
tourbillon sub-assembly. balanced gap on both sides of the wall

Tool_Balancing_Jig_Wall (x2)

M2.5x12 screw (x6)

Tool_Balancing_Jig_Base

Ensure that balanced gap

exists on both sides
Notch
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPD/E/<Q.-/D/9'(&=.::')
• We will now tune the weight balance of the assembly about the 1st tourbillon axis. It is critical for the tourbillon to be balanced along all three axes in order for it to run consistently. By
the nature of the asymmetric design, the Axis 1 subassembly is heavier towards the escape wheel side. Hence the three M3 screws on the lower cage are counter balance weights.

• Allow the assembly to oscillate till its equilibrium position, and adjust the screw that is closest to the imaginary vertical line that passes through the center of the Axis 1 transmission
gear. The nal goal is to be able position the axis 1 tourbillon at any position and it will only have small/no oscillations. This process is largely trial and error but note that it does not
have to be perfectly balanced.

• Do note that you may be required to switch to longer or shorter M3 balance screws if the weight is severely unbalanced.

Loosen this
screw slightly

Tighten this
Tighten this
screw slightly
vertical line

vertical line

vertical line
Imaginary

Imaginary

Imaginary
screw slightly

Example Scenario: Example Scenario: Example Scenario:

Escape wheel side is heavier and tends to sink to the Balance screw side is heavier and tends to shift to Balance screw side is heavier and tends to shift to the
bottom.
the bottom
bottom

Loosen the screw that is closest to the yellow line Tighten the screw that is closest to the yellow line. Tighten the screw that is closest to the yellow line.
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Part 5.2: Axis 2 Tourbillon
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
1) Remove the 2 balancing pins along with transmission gear and set the axis 1 tourbillon 2) Prepare the axis 2 upper frame.
assembly aside for now.
69_Axis_2_Upper_Frame

Insert a spare >20mm pin. The tting

must be relatively tight. This pin is only
temporary for weight balancing and will
be removed later.

Use a pen knife to

clean up the inner
surface of the support
region
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
3) Insert the 10x15x4mm (medium size) bearing into the Axis 2 upper frame. 4) Place the Axis 1 transmission gear on a at surface and insert the upper frame towards the
gear. The tting should be slightly tight and rm. Apply pressure onto the bearing to ensure that
it is fully inserted. Check that the bearing is still fully seated into the upper frame. Try rotating
10x14x4 Bearing the the Gear, the bearing rotation should be smooth. An excessively tight bearing to gear tting
will introduce resistance to the bearing’s rotation.

68_Axis_1_Transmission

apply force on the bearing

(not the frame)

Optional: apply a very thin layer of

super glue to the side wall of the the stepped feature on the gear must
bearing to ensure that it does not be in contact with the bearing (colour
slide out changed for clearer illustration)
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
5) Prepare the Axis 2 spacer by loosening the threads in the identical manner as step 8 using 6) Assemble the Axis 2 spacers onto the upper frame using super glue as illustrated. Take note of
the same spacer holder tool for axis 1 using a M2x5 screw. the orientation of all the spacers

71_Axis_2_Spacer 71_Axis_2_Spacer (x6)

Apply super glue (or any other suitable
adhesives) around this area. its ok for
Tool_Tourbillon_Spacer_Holder the glue to ow into the pin hole
M2x5 Screw

Apply some force to ensure that

Repeat for all 6 spacers the post is fully inserted before
the glue cures
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
7) Assemble the Axis 2 spur and bevel gears. The hexagonal tting must be tight. You may [Checkpoint #11]
apply super glue if the tting is slightly loose. Use a hammer to ensure full insertion. The • Insert any spare pin and give the gears a good spin. View the spin sideways and you should
hexagonal post on the spur gear is designed to slightly protrude from bevel gear. Repeat for a not observe any wobble. if you observe only the bevel gear wobbling, the insertion on step 17
total of 2 sets is not complete. Give the spur gear a few more solid taps with a hammer and try again.

73_Axis_2_Spur
• If both gears are wobbling, the spur gear pinhole is tilted (possibly during pin-hole preparation
on page 8). Re-print the parts and repeat the pin-hole preparation step carefully.

72_Axis_2_Bevel X2

sp
in
Gently hammer on
the spur gear

Both gears should be

spinning smoothly

Use any suitable spacer to slightly

raise the bevel gear to allow the
spur gear to be fully inserted
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
8) Insert 19mm pins into the Axis 2 upper frame followed by 2 washers 9) Insert the both spur-bevel gear assembly followed by washers. perform a Mesh Check

Washer (x2)

19mm
Washer (x2)
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
10) Assemble the lower frame onto the upper frame by aligning and inserting the 2x pins to the corresponding holes on [Checkpoint #12]
the upper frame. Use a 1.5mm drill to loosen the 2 pin holes on the upper frame to ease the insertion.The lower View the assembly from the side and perform a gap check on both bevel-
frame should be in contact with all 6 spacers. Use your hand to hold the assembly together for now while spur gears as illustrated below. Re-print thinner washers if binding is
performing checkpoint #12. observed.

Run a [Mesh Check]. All gears must be meshing as smoothly as possible.

70_Axis_2_Lower
_Frame

Gap Check
if gap is not visible, try
Gap Check (Axis 2 Bevel vs moving the gears in the
Axis 1 Transmission) direction of the arrows. if
turn the assembly upside down you can feel a slight
and check again, gap should be movement, its good to go
visible on both orientations)
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
11) Turn the assembly upside down with the lower frame facing upwards and secure it 12) Insert the Axis 1 Ring gear onto the upper frame. There are 6 notches around the ring gear and take
using M2x5 screws. Run another [Mesh Check] to ensure smooth meshing for up note on the orientation as illustrated. The ring gear should be exible if you adhere to the
and down facing orientation recommended print settings and is required to be slightly deformed and snap tted into place

M2x5 Screw (x6) 67_Axis_1_Ring_Gear

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13) Assemble the Axis 1 tourbillon assembly onto the Axis 2 frame assembly as illustrated. use one hand to hold onto the Axis 1 transmission gear and the other to push the Axis 1
tourbillon into position. There are 2 assembly points to be taken note of

Escape wheel gear

will mesh with the
ring gear. Check the
The Bearing must be “Sandwiched”
teeth alignment
between the Axis 1 transmission
during assembly
gear and Axis 1 lower frame.
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
[Checkpoint]
• View the assembly from the side and there should be a visible gap between the Escape wheel + Escape fork with the ring gear.

• Double check again that the Axis 1 cage assembly is not loose and wobbling (bearing ttings must not be loose)

• Apply a small but consistent force to the either one of the bevel gears counter-clockwise to activate the tourbillon. You may be required to ddle the fork slightly to kickstart the
mechanism. let the mechanism run for a several revolutions and ensure that the escape wheel - ring gear gap is maintained through the entire revolution.

• Check the meshing between the escape wheel and ring gear though one full revolution

Rota
Sw

te
ing

Gap Check
Visible gap should exist between
escape wheel and escape fork vs
Axis 1 ring gear
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
14) Insert the Axis 3 runner gear followed by any spare pin as shown. Ensure that the runner gear fully and rmly inserted into the upper frame and no visible tilt is observed.

76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear

Runner gear hex feature

must be fully inserted and
be in contact with the inner
wall of the upper frame

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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
15) Dis-assemble the balancing jig and relocate the walls to the long side of the base as illustrated 16) Place the tourbillon assembly on the balancing Jig. Align the pins onto the notch of the
jig wall and ensure that there is a balanced gap on both sides of the wall.

there should be a visible

gap at these areas
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
• Similar to the steps on page 79, we will tune the weight balance of the Axis 2 assembly. By the nature asymmetric design, the assembly is heavier towards the bottom side (Axis 2
lower frame). Without any counterbalance screws, the assembly should nd its equilibrium position as shown below (scenario #1).

• If print settings were followed closely, the assembly should be more or less balanced. Follow the steps below to ne tune the assembly if necessary. This process is also largely trial
and error and will require some time and patience to get it right.

• Balance is achieved when you are able to position the assembly at any orientation and it should hold the position. A slight level of unbalanced state (minimal oscillation) is still very
acceptable.

Counterbalance
Screws (M2.5)

Scenario #1:
• Assembly is heavier towards Axis 2 lower cage.
Scenario #2:
• progressively replace the counterbalance screws with longer ones.
• Assembly is heavier towards Axis 1 Tourbillon

• All 3 screws must be replaced together in order to maintain the balance of axis 1. • Replace the counterbalance screws with shorter ones or remove one nut from each screw.
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPI/E/<Q.-/I/9'(&=.::')
17) Remove the balancing pins along with Axis 3 runner gear and set the assembly aside
Part 5.3: Axis 3 Tourbillon
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPJ/E/<Q.-/J/9'(&=.::')
1) Hammer a 25mm pin into the runner stud. Insert the balancing runner 2) hammer the Bevel stud to fully insert the bevel stud into the [Checkpoint]
gear followed by a washer as illustrated. Set the assembly aside for bevel gear. Apply the pin-hole preparation to the bevel stud • Insert any spare pin through both gear assembly and
now. and ensure that the assembly can freely rotate give the them a good spin. They should be able to
spin freely for ≥ 3 secs View the spin sideways and
Washer
you should not observe any wobble.

74_Axis_2_Bevel_Stud

72_Axis_2_Bevel

77_Axis_3_Balancing
_Runner

Sp
78_Axis_3_Runner

in
_Stud
any spare
1.5mm pin

Bevel stud ange must be

in contact with the gear
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPJ/E/<Q.-/J/9'(&=.::')
3) Prepare the Axis 3 Cage. Clean all the support material interface properly and insert the 4) Flip the cage over to the other side and Insert the bevel stud through a bevel gear into the
smallest (7x11x3mm) bearing as illustrated. lie it sideways and gently hammer the bearing into Axis 3 cage. The tting should be tight and you should hammer the stud all the way in.
the opening. Apply super glue if the tting is slightly loose.

75_Axis_3_Cage

Bearing (7x11x3 mm)

Remove support material

here using a pen knife if
necessary

gently hammer on the

Bearing should be ushed
bearing to fully insert it
(slight protrusion is ne)

The Bevel stud should

protrude slightly from the
other side of the cage
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPJ/E/<Q.-/J/9'(&=.::')
5) Assemble the Axis 2 sub-assembly into the cage followed by the insertion of the runner gear according to the illustration below. Use one hand to hold on to the tourbillon sub-assembly in
place till the end of the next step.

both bevel gears

Roughly align the

meshing
upper frame circular
opening to the bearing

78_Axis_3_Runner_Stud

76_Axis_3_Runner_Gear Apply hand force on areas

pointed by the arrows to ensure
that runner gear is fully
inserted.
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPJ/E/<Q.-/J/9'(&=.::')
6) Insert the balancing runner assembly from step #1 as illustrated. The pin should be tted relatively tightly [Checkpoint]
and securely to the Axis 2 upper frame. • Inspect the assembly from the side and check on the following areas as
illustrated below

Apply some glue

here if necessary

2. Pin should be tightly tted here.

You should feel some resistance
while inserting the pin. Apply 1. Balancing runner should be able to spin
super glue to the area pointed by freely. If it doesn’t, carefully pull the gear
the green arrow if loose in the direction of the red arrows to push
out the stud in order to maintain a small
gap
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/OPJ/E/<Q.-/J/9'(&=.::')
[Checkpoint]
1. Check the bevel meshing gear interface. there should be some visible gap the allows both gears to wriggle

2. Apply a small but consistent force to the runner gear counter-clockwise to activate the tourbillon. Again, you may be required to ddle the fork slightly to “kickstart” the
mechanism. allow the mechanism to run for a several revolutions and take note of any intermittent jams or resistance to motion. Check for gear meshing at that particular position
of high resistance to identify any areas that could potentially be interfering.

1 2

there should be a visible gap between

the bevel gears meshing teeth. You
should be able to wriggle the assembly
due to the gear backlash

Rotate

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Part 6: Final Assembly
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
7) Insert the largest bearing into the Angled base. the tting should be tight and it is ne to 8) Insert the Tourbillon Bevel into the bearing. There is a stepped feature on the bevel gear
use a slightly larger hammer force to fully insert the bearing. that must be in contact with the bearing inner ring.

Bearing (20X32X7 mm)

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base

80_Axis_3_Bevel_Gear

Bearing must be fully inserted Bearing stepped feature must be

to be in contact with the lip in contact with bearing inner ring
feature on the angled base
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 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
10) Assemble the axis 3 cage onto the tourbillon bevel. Apply force on the Axis 3 cage and Bevel Gear to
9) Assemble the Axis 3 spacer. Take note that you may be required to reprint this
ensure that it is fully inserted. The Axis 3 spacer must be wedged between the the bearing and axis 3
spacer with di erent z height in order to ne tune the position of the Axis 3 meshing
cage.
later.

79_Axis_3_Spacer
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
[Checkpoint]
1. Inspect the assembly from the side as illustrated and do a gap check at the highlighted areas.

2. Hold the angled base with one hand and give the axis 3 cage a gentle spin clockwise with the other hand. It should be a smooth and stable rotation through the bearing.

1 2

There should be a visible gap at these

areas.
Hold

Rotate

Hold
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
11) Orientate the tourbillon assembly according to the illustration below (the balancing runner gear must be facing towards the front side) in order to make room for screws insertion. Assemble
the tourbillon subassembly onto the base using M3 screws as illustrated below.

76_Axis_3_Runner
_Gear

*Components hidden to better illustrate assembly points

M3x18 Screw (x2)

M3x8 Screw (x2)

77_Axis_3_Balancing
_Runner
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
[Checkpoint]
1. Check for proper meshing in the areas highlighted below (in red circles). There should be a visible gap between the Tourbillon bevel and upper base.

2. The angled base must be fully seated into the circular features on the upper base that serves as a positioning feature. Ensure that the screws are su ciently tightened

both Runner gears mesh

with Axis 3 Ring gear

Angled base must be seated

ushed to the upper base

Locating features must be

fully inserted

There should
be a gap here

Tourbillon Bevel meshes with

Power Transmission 1
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<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
[Checkpoint]
1. Inspect the assembly from the rear. There should be a small gap between the runner gear and the ring gear.

2. Try to wobble the entire tourbillon as illustrated on the right image. You should be able slightly rock the assembly back and forth to verify that there is a slight clearance between the
Runner Gears and Axis 3 Ring Gear

There should be a small gap here. Otherwise,

disassemble the tourbillon to repeat step 9 on page 102
based on the following observations:

• No gap observed: Runner gear is pressing onto the you should be able to rock
ring gear, this will introduce undesirable resistance to
the assembly in slightly in the
the movement. Replace Axis 3 spacer with a thicker
direction of the arrows
one

• Large gap observed: runner gear will slip and not

mesh well with the ring gear. Replace the Axis 3
spacer with a thinner one.
 <--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
10) Insert the winding key into the winding gear and start winding up the mainspring barrel. The winding direction should be clockwise when viewed from the top. If everything is assembled
correctly, the Triple axis tourbillon will start running (you may be required to kickstart the fork). Congratulations! the assembly is now complete.

83_Winding_Key

Winding Direction
<--,5=:>/8/6"&7/S/E/N.)":/<--,5=:>
[Checkpoint]
1. Allow the assembly to run for awhile and listen to the escapement mechanism’s ticking rate. It should be more or less consistent throughout all the positions of the triple axis
tourbillon. If you notice the tourbillon slowing down or speeding up at a particular position, refer to the troubleshooting guide on the next section
 9&'(=:,-L''7.)%/H(.*,
• Some of you may encounter intermittent tourbillon jams or inconsistent rate of movement. Assuming that the escapement mechanism is functioning properly. More often than not, the
issue lies in the tourbillon subassembly. Hence the troubleshooting guide will focus mainly in that area:

• For the case of inconsistent rate of movement or very short run time (mechanism stops while mainspring is wound), The following troubleshooting guide is a systematic elimination process to
eliminate areas of potential issues. The rst step is to decouple the escapement mechanism and manually run the clock to check for potential areas of interference or tight gear meshing.

3
1 2

Remove the Axis 1 tourbillon assembly Disassemble the Axis 1 tourbillon till the escape fork is accessible

Remove the escape fork and rotate it 180deg

before re-inserting it
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9&'(=:,-L''7.)%/H(.*,

5
6
• The action of removing
the axis 1 tourbillon will
4 most likely move the
bearing. Apply pressure
on the bearing towards
the Axis 2 upper frame
and ensure that the Axis
1 transmission gear is
fully inserted to the
bearing

• Re-assemble the axis 1 tourbillon. The Escape

wheel should be able to freely rotate (Take note
on the escape fork orientation) and set the
assembly aside for now

• Re-insert the de-coupled Axis 1 tourbillon onto the assembly. Use

one hand to hold onto the Axis 1 transmission gear while inserting
the Axis 1 assembly. Otherwise it will be pushed out of the
bearing
 9&'(=:,-L''7.)%/H(.*,

7 8

• Rotate either one of the mainspring barrel and all three axis of the tourbillon will start rotating. Start slow
and feel for any particular position that has signi cantly higher resistance and inspect the runner gear -
ring gear mesh at that particular position.

• Gradually increase the rotation speed and lookout for excessive vibration caused by the rotation of the
tourbillon. If vibration is felt even at relatively low speeds, the weight balancing is insu cient and you
need to repeat steps 14 and 26.

• A su ciently balanced tourbillon should be able to rotate about the axis 3 ring gear up to 1 revolution per
second without signi cant vibrations. • Remove the entire tourbillon assembly by removing the 4 screws
that holds the angled base
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9&'(=:,-L''7.)%/H(.*,

10
9
11

• Rotate the runner gear for another mesh check. Pay attention
to the bevel gears meshing. Take note that everything should
• Disassemble the Axis 3 cage from the tourbillon bevel gear. be as smooth as possible with little resistance
• re-assemble the angled base along with the tourbillon bevel
(use a small hammer to gently knock on the hexagonal back onto the upper base. Rotate the mainspring barrel
feature on the tourbillon bevel if the tting is tight again and check for meshing smoothness.
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9&'(=:,-L''7.)%/H(.*,

14

12

13

• Rotate either the bevel gear or the entire axis 1 cage for a
mesh check. Focus on the Axis 2 spur - Axis 1 transmission
• If the bevel gears are meshing well and there are still some gear meshing
resistance in the movement, disassemble the Axis 2 assembly
from the Axis 3 cage by removing both runner gears
• If necessary, further dismantle the axis 2 lower cage
by removing the six m2 screws to inspect the
assembly.

• Rotate the Axis 1 cage to check the meshing between

the escape wheel and the Axis 1 ring gear
 9().)%/9L,/<--,5=:>
The movement is designed to run based on the rate of Axis 3 making one full revolution I apologize in advance that I did not incorporate any proper time setting mechanism into the design as it
every 90 seconds. Although it is not designed to be a reliable and accurate time telling will further complicate the assembly and introduce potential assembly errors. There are a couple of
device, If you are interested to get it to tick at the right rate, the simplest way is to adjust indirect ways to set the time by decoupling the escapement mechanism as follows:
the in ll% of the balance wheel to either increase or decrease the frequency of the
escapement mechanism. I will also be publishing the hairspring and Balance wheel CAD
models for those who are interested to make any modi cations Time Setting Method #1:

1
Axis 3 Tourbillon should
complete one revolution every
90 seconds

Rotate to set the time

• Remove the Axis 1 Tourbillon and rotate either one of the mainspring barrel to set the time. Re-
assemble the Axis 1 tourbillon once time setting is complete
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 9().)%/9L,/<--,5=:>
Time Setting Method #2:
-Requires some additional assembly step to introduce a runner gear stopper for easier time setting as follows:

Disassemble the triple axis tourbillon and try to Insert a M2x6 screw into the Hold the screw from the top using pliers to Re-insert the Runner gear. There are printed M2
position the axis 1 cage as illustrated. Remove the through hole at the side of the precent the screw from rotating threads on the runner gear
Runner gear axis 2 upper frame

You will feel a resistance when

the runner gear is inserted to the
hexagonal feature opening

Hexagonal feature
2.5mm

Fully insert the runner gear into the upper frame. The M2 screw must Keep inserting till the runner gear hits a hard stop. Do not Rotate the runner gear clockwise (when
be protruding out of the axis 2 upper frame by approximately 2.5mm use excessive force as you may damage the hexagonal viewed from the left to insert the screw. The
feature on the axis 2 upper frame tightening of the screw will gradually insert
the runner gear towards the upper frame.
9().)%/9L,/<--,5=:>
Time Setting Method #2:

Pull Outwards

• Pull the Runner gear outwards to de-couple it from the Axis 2 upper frame. it • The runner gear should be able to freely rotate. If it doesn’t, loosen the m2
should be stopped by the M2 screw that was inserted earlier. screw slightly and try again. Rotate the mainspring barrel to set the time and
re-insert the runner gear once time setting is completed
 N.)":/T'7,-
• If you intend to store the clock or put it on display for an extended period of time (>1 month) It is high recommended that you perform the following steps:

• Due to presence of small amount of friction in the system, when the clock stops ticking by itself, there will be some residual mainspring force that will constantly apply some pressure on the
gears of the power train. PLA deforms over time if a constant force is applied to it for extended period of time. Hence we must ensure that the mainspring barrel is fully unwinded. There are 2
ways to do so:

1) Manually drive the mainspring barrels with your hands to power the mechanism till both mainsprings springs are fully unwinded. the best way to verify is to observe at the mainspring
from the top. They should be coiled towards the outer wall of the barrel as shown below.

2) Decouple the escapement mechanism (either by method #1 or method #2 for time setting) and rotate wither one of the Barrels to fully unwind the Mainsprings.

• Position The Axis 1 Tourbillon as illustrated below so that the hairspring will not deform under its own weight.

Axis 1 Tourbillon should

be facing up when being
stored for a long time

Fully unwinded mainspring should look

like this. the spring will be coiled towards
the outer perimeter of the barrel Both hands should be at
their lowest position
H"::,&>/E/N.&-7/N()#7.')":/6&'7'7>4,
H"::,&>/E/N.&-7/N()#7.')":/6&'7'7>4,
H"::,&>/8/?':'(&/047.')-/E/9&.8?':'(&
H"::,&>/8/?':'(&/047.')-/E/+(":/?':'(&
<44,)*.Q/8/?(&"/3:.#,&/3#&,,)-L'7-

05_Ratchet_Spring 12_Mainspring_Barrel 24_Pillar_Post

• The thin walls are 0.4mm wide. Prusa slicer by default

sets the line width to be 0.45mm for some reason

• Head to Layers & Perimeters and check [detect thin

walls]

• Head to Print settings -> Advanced and set all the 31-41_Ring_Frames
extrusion width parameters to 0.40mm

24_Minute_Subframe 45-48_Retro_Frames

• Its ok to have the little gap between the walls

<44,)*.Q/8/?(&"/3:.#,&/3#&,,)-L'7-

58-60_Axis_1_Cage

75_Axis_3_cage

81_Axis_3_Angled_Base